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I Visited Maui After the Devastating Wildfires — Here's How You Can Do It Responsibly

Locals are reimagining the Hawaiian island's travel industry.

Leilani Marie Labong is a San Francisco-based journalist who focuses on food, design, and travel. Her work has been featured in Elle Decor, Travel + Leisure, House Beautiful, Sunset, Food52, Food & Wine, The Kitchn , and Architectural Digest.

Courtesy of The Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua 

On a cool, misty morning last December at Kīpuka Olowalu, an agricultural reserve on Maui’s west side, a trio of volunteers — a retired Canadian couple and me — offered the Hawaiian chant E Hō Mai to the ancestors, requesting their wisdom for the tasks at hand: pulling weeds and planting sweet potato in the name of conserving sacred land. I’ve visited Maui countless times — the island is just a quick hop from O'ahu, where I’m from — to hike in Haleakalā National Park or tour the waterfalls along the Hāna Highway. But volunteering was a whole new experience, and one I had not considered until then.

Since the hurricane-fueled wildfire that leveled the historic West Maui town of Lahaina last Aug. 8, many would-be visitors, myself included, have grappled with the question of whether — or when — they should return. On my trip, I met locals keen to reboot — even reimagine — the island’s travel industry. Tourism is big business in Maui, where nearly 3 million annual visitors drive 40 percent of the economy. But merely resurrecting the full-throttle frolic of the recent past seems counterproductive and insensitive in the wake of the catastrophe’s 2,170 scorched acres, more than 2,200 burned structures, and 101 fatalities. 

“If you want to wear your crazy aloha shirts and plastic leis, just recognize that many of us have gone through a lot recently and seeing something like that could really bum us out,” says Riley Coon, the third-generation owner of Maui’s oldest sailboat company, Trilogy. Despite losing a vessel in the fire, Coon captained a boat to aid the Coast Guard with water rescues that night. He says that watching Lahaina burn into the wee hours from his mooring just off shore was “eerie and quiet.”

Trevor Clark/Courtesy of Fairmont Kea Lani, Maui

In the wake of the fire, visitor arrivals by air to Maui dropped as much as 51.4 percent. But considering the island’s nearly full recovery from the pandemic slump, the Hawai’i Tourism Authority anticipates a strong comeback from the landmark blaze, preemptively rolling out a $2.6-million Mālama Maui campaign to encourage visitors to make a more mindful return.

“Visitors are part of an incremental, but invaluable effort to shift the landscape of Maui tourism,” says Karin Osuga, executive director of Kīpuka Olowalu . “By taking part in cultural experiences, we hope that visitors will gain a deeper appreciation for our island.” The significant goodwill that voluntourism generates belies the short hours typically required for any given session. At Kīpuka Olowalu, our quiet morning of landscaping under the kukui nut trees and among the fallen noni fruit spanned just three hours, including lessons on native Hawaiian plants and Indigenous farming practices. Other volunteering opportunities on the island that more directly aid fire recovery include delivering meals for Hungry Heroes Hawai’i , an organization born of the pandemic, and sorting donations for the Maui Humane Society , which has taken in more than 800 animals since the Lahaina blaze.

Still, volunteering on vacation is not for everyone — no judgment here. More leisurely, but no less compelling, culture fixes on the island include exploring the vibrant arts district of Wailuku town, packed with installations, murals, and even pop-up performances. The artists are part of a program called Small Town * Big Art, in which they’re paired with local kūpuna (knowledge keepers) to create works based on sacred Hawaiian proverbs. If you’re traveling to Maui during September or October, check out the annual Festivals of Aloha , a series of cultural showcases held in towns across the island, from a high-energy hula event in Wailea to a pitch-perfect falsetto contest at The Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua to a shoreline fishing tournament in Hāna. Such a wide geographic span serves as a reminder that island culture is not limited to the tourist hub of West Maui. Says Festivals of Aloha director Daryl Fujiwara, “While West Maui is healing, why not get to know other parts of the island?”

Melia Lucida/Courtesy of The Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua 

For example, upcountry towns like Pā'ia and Makawao, also singed by the August fires, are charming bohemias of agriculture and gastronomy, where award-winning goat cheese is produced, wine-producing vineyards thrive in Haleakalā’s rich volcanic soil, and a farm-forward, wood-fired sourdough pizza place is considered a destination among tourists and neighbors alike. In upscale Wailea, the Fairmont Kea Lani ’s new cultural center, Hale Kukuna, hosts a rich calendar of lei-making, hula, bamboo-carving, ukulele, and Hawaiian language for all visitors and residents of Maui, not just hotel guests.

“Making a cultural connection is key to understanding why Maui — Lahaina especially — is so important to us,” says Kamahiwa Kawa’a, the center’s cultural manager, of Lahaina’s history as the capital of the Hawaiian Kingdom from 1802 to 1845, when the town was a lush coastal flat teeming with taro wetlands and forests of coconut and breadfruit trees. While the burn zone is off-limits for the foreseeable future, scorched earth spans both sides — mauka to makai, or mountain to ocean — of West Maui’s Lahaina Bypass Road and Route 30, a cataclysmic contrast to that 19th-century utopia. (Dust fencing prevents visibility of the burn zone from these roads, and stopping to take photos is prohibited.) Along the way, spray-painted signs read “Lahaina Strong,” “Let Lahaina heal,” and “Lahaina is not for sale.”

Randy Jay Braun/Courtesy of The Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua; Tanveer Badal/Courtesy of The Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua 

Understandably, many locals are apprehensive of such a whiplash return to business as usual. Last Oct. 8, just two months after the fire, Hawai’i governor Josh Green began a phased reopening of West Maui — historically responsible for 15 percent of the state’s tourism economy — even before the tragedy’s toll had been totally accounted for. (Damages are still mounting as the clean-up — estimated to take a decade or longer — continues.) A few weeks later, Maui mayor Richard Bissen, motivated by an estimated $9 million in daily economic losses, short-circuited the governor’s plan, reopening all of the West Maui coastline — except the burn zone — last Nov. 1.

This has created an awkward clash in the West Maui resort enclave of Kā’anapali. Between the growing influx of tourists and the more than 5,000 fire evacuees still sheltering in hotels there through a FEMA-funded program, friction is inevitable. As such, community leaders are asking visitors to curb their curiosity around the events and aftermath of the fire when speaking to locals not just in West Maui, but all over the island.

“You don’t have to be nosy to be supportive,” says Sissy Lake-Farm, the executive director of the Maui Historical Society. “Please don’t dwell on the fire or how people were affected since they may have lost their home, lost their business, even lost friends or family.” Trilogy's Coon, who is also on the board of the Lahaina Restoration Foundation, adds, “Those stories are now becoming special and reserved for people we know and care about. But we’ll still take sentiments like, ‘Hey, I'm really sorry for what you guys have gone through.’ Those really mean a lot.”

Kevin J. Miyazaki/Courtesy of Tiffany's (2)

Lake-Farm notes that another easy way to “plug in” to Maui culture is by supporting local businesses like mom-and-pop restaurants, which are particularly valuable to the island’s economy since they also sustain a network of local farms, ranches, and fisheries. For example, Tiffany’s Maui in Wailuku sources poultry from the farm Simple Roots for the kiawe-smoked huli huli chicken, and the philanthropic food truck Maui Fresh Streatery makes homemade kimchi from Kula Country Farms cabbage for Korean pork-belly bowls. You can also find a different spin on hyperlocal fare at Maui Ku’ia Estate Chocolate , where cacao cultivated on the home farm, along with coffee grown locally, go into the Maui Ku’ia Estate dark chocolate and Maui Mokka cappuccino bars.

On a Trilogy snorkel tour to the 939-acre Olowalu reef, the splendor of Maui seemed, if only for that December morning, to be back in full effect: The humpback whales were breeching, and the reef was swarming with colorful fish like Hawaiian bigeye and sunset basslet, plus some rarer finds like blacktip reef sharks, green sea turtles, and one massive monk seal. According to the Trilogy crew, more than 25 percent of Hawai’i’s ocean species are endemic due to the archipelago’s isolation, making every snorkel trip that much more special.

An Australian couple, having just emerged from the briny deep, high-fived each other as they climbed back onto the boat. “Best day ever!” they cheered. Fellow passengers echoed their enthusiastic refrain, and even the crew joined in. I recalled the chanting at Kīpuka Olowalu a few days before, which was much quieter and on firmly land, but no less heartfelt. After a skillful docking back at Ma’alaea Harbor, the second-windiest marina in the world, our boat captain addressed the passengers with a slight crack in his voice. “Thanks for being here, for being cool, and for hanging out with us,” he said. “If you want to know how to support Maui right now, you’re doing it.”

Maui Travel Updates

News Releases

Hawai‘i tourism authority board approves action plan to support maui’s recovery in 2024.

For Immediate Release: December 22, 2023 HTA Release (23-57)

23-57 HTA Board Approves Maui Recovery Plan for 2024.pdf

HONOLULU – The Hawaiʻi Tourism Authority (HTA) Board of Directors has furthered its ongoing commitment to mālama Maui and support the island’s recovery by approving an immediate six-month action plan for 2024 to help address major challenges confronting residents, small businesses, visitor industry providers, Maui’s economy, and families seeking housing.   The action plan is designed to fulfill tourism’s responsibilities in alliance with the leadership established by Governor Josh Green, M.D. and within the broader scope of Maui’s recovery efforts being conducted by the State Department of Business, Economic Development and Tourism (DBEDT) and other state agencies. HTA’s full report identifying major strategies and not only short-term but also mid- and long-term recommendations will be provided to DBEDT in their role coordinating the State’s Economic Recovery Support Functions.   HTA Board Chair Mufi Hannemann noted the 2024 plan balances the critical needs of getting Maui’s economy back on track for the benefit of workers and families, with the sensitivity that efforts undertaken by HTA will not compromise Maui’s principles. “A tremendous amount of thought and listening to people and businesses throughout Maui has gone into the development of this overarching plan, which will guide HTA forward in the coming year,” said Chair Hannemann. “We will be flexible and make necessary adjustments throughout the year to ensure the programs and innovations that HTA puts forth are timely and geared to encourage future success. We are hopeful Maui’s tourism industry will begin seeing positive results soon, but the reality is that this plan is intended to heighten interest among mindful travelers about Maui throughout all of 2024 and beyond.”   Building on the initial Mālama Maui campaign that HTA has been implementing in the wake of the August 8 wildfires, HTA’s plan for 2024 focuses on seven key strategic areas with the following top actions to help revitalize Maui’s economy and improve the outlook for residents.

• Increase the visibility and call-to-action for travel to Hawai‘i targeting high-potential markets through Maui recovery marketing programs emphasizing Mālama Maui in the U.S. and Canada.
• Support businesses in maintaining a consistent message that Maui is open for visitors by enhancing the GoHawaii.com website and app with additional information highlighting that Maui is open, and helping to subsidize booth space or participation fees at road shows or travel trade events geared toward travel advisors who book travel.
• Develop local messaging sharing that many Maui residents want to return to full-time work and that it provides a path to meaningful economic recovery. The messaging will be amplified through television, radio and social media, reaching Maui residents, visitor industry stakeholders, and businesses.
• Increase post-arrival Mālama Hawaiʻi visitor communication and education efforts, and develop messaging that is more Maui site-specific and addresses some of the post-wildfire changes.
• Support Maui small businesses experiencing significant sales reductions due to fewer visitors by providing funding support for Maui Made markets on-island through the County of Maui and promoting Maui Made products during U.S. West Coast saturation campaigns.
• Expand Maui’s tourism product to support local businesses and provide new visitor activities by creating opportunities that allow travelers to explore different areas of Maui that are open to visitors and supporting capacity-building for small businesses.
• Support longer-term housing for wildfire-impacted households living in visitor accommodations by increasing communication with out-of-state transient vacation rental owners encouraging them to rent to displaced Lahaina residents.

HTA Board Vice Chair Mahina Paishon emphasized that the immediate and long-term well-being of Maui’s residents and families will continue to be a top priority with HTA’s plan. “We fully understand the uncertainty and worry that many residents are feeling about their future with Maui’s recovery and appreciate everyone for sharing their mana‘o,” said Vice Chair Paishon. “A main objective of our work will be to make sure that HTA is supportive and mindful of the sentiments within the community and properly addressing concerns raised by residents about tourism’s role in Maui’s recovery.” HTA Interim President and CEO Daniel Nāho‘opi‘i said HTA is taking a holistic view as to how Maui will be shared globally, noting that the input received from Maui residents, nonprofits and businesses is serving as the foundation for messaging and public outreach efforts. This includes comments shared at a December 4 community meeting on Maui attended by more than 200 residents, input from over 100 individuals submitted online, and dozens of additional meetings with Maui business and community leaders. The work to support the programs in this newly-approved action plan will be executed primarily by its existing contractors, in addition to their existing responsibilities on behalf of the State of Hawai‘i. “Our team is moving quickly, efficiently and effectively to maximize our efforts to highlight Maui and all the Hawaiian Islands as a top-of-mind destination for travelers in 2024,” said Nāho‘opi‘i. “We are often asked by travel providers and visitors what they can do to help support Maui. Our answer is always the same – come to Maui with respect and compassion, and enjoy your time on the island.”   Nāho‘opi‘i added that HTA has identified four key measurable outcomes for the implementation of its 2024 plan, summarized as follows:

• Encourage pono, mindful travel and increase the number of travelers who intend to visit the island in 2024 and 2025.
• Grow the tourism economy statewide with more visitors coming to all the Hawaiian Islands in 2024, which will boost the state’s economy and support Maui’s recovery.
• Ensure that Maui residents continue to be included in the discussion about tourism’s recovery.
• Fill more visitor industry jobs and increase employment in collaboration with other departments and agencies.

“Tourism has an important role in bolstering Maui’s economic recovery, which supports businesses and allows many residents to provide for their families,” said Nāho‘opi‘i. “Working with Governor Green, DBEDT, the Legislature, and our board of directors, we look forward to HTA continuing to re-establish the significance of Maui as a destination for travelers from around the world in 2024.”

Media Contacts:

T. Ilihia Gionson Public Affairs Officer Hawai‘i Tourism Authority (808) 973-2255 (o) [email protected]

Hawaii’s New Message to Tourists: ‘Maui Is Ready’

Dawit Habtemariam , Skift

March 26th, 2024 at 1:04 PM EDT

Maui is ready for its close-up, according to a new marketing campaign. If tourism doesn't rebound soon, valuable talent may leave.

Dawit Habtemariam

Tourists have remained unsure whether Maui is ready to welcome them after its painful recovery from last August’s wildfires. So Hawaii’s tourism agency launched a marketing campaign last week to reassure them that the entire island is open for business.

The campaign spotlights local businesses and residents welcoming visitors back, and it’s called Mākaukau Maui , which means “Maui is Ready.”

“We wanted to offer a platform and a voice for them to make that invitation to folks,” said T. Ilihia Gionson , the Hawaii Tourism Authority’s public affairs officer.

Tourism officials launched the campaign after visitor spending dropped 19% in January . Maui lost an estimated $120 million in revenue.

Maui faces competition from other sun-and-sea destinations that are also wooing mainland Americans.

“We’re in competition with other sun destinations,” said  Lisa Paulson , executive director of the Maui Lodging and Hotel Association . “Mexico and the Caribbean are pushing hard.”

Clock Is Ticking in Western Maui

If tourism doesn’t recover quickly, skilled restaurant and other tourism workers may leave the area. Some may have already.

A large number of Maui locals remain unemployed. Unemployment was 6.2% in January, up from 3% last year, according to the Hawaii Tourism Authority. Some Maui locals also face the possibility of their unemployment benefits running out soon. 

“A lot of people that initially filed right after the fires, their unemployment benefits are ending at the end of this month,” said Paulson, noting that some locals have already left the island to find work elsewhere.

Airline Piece of the Puzzle

For Maui to make a full recovery, airlines will need to keep flying there. But seat capacity on flights to Maui was down 16% in January from a year earlier, according to Cirium Diio. The number of flights was down 14%. “Despite the big dropoff in capacity since last summer, Maui’s airport is still busier now, measured by seat capacity, than it was during this time in 2019, before the pandemic,” said Jay Shabat, Senior Analyst and Co-Founder of Airline Weekly.

Complex Picture of Recovery

While the marketing campaign says Maui is ready for its close-up, the on-the-ground picture is more nuanced.

The August wildfires destroyed the homes of thousands of individuals and families. According to Paulson, over 3,300 displaced individuals stay in hotels in Kaanapali, Central Maui, and Kihei under contracts with the Federal Emergency Management Agency and the Red Cross.  

At an HTA community meeting in December, some of Maui’s displaced voiced concerns about the lack of long-term housing and potential the loss of their accommodations to tourists. Government officials are trying to find a long-term housing solution for the displaced.

Another concern raised at the December community meeting was about tourists being disrespectful as locals try to heal.

Gionson said this week that tourists were being sensitive to locals. “The feedback I’m getting is that a lot of folks are being very respectful,” he said. ”They are heeding the restrictions to stay out of the fire-affected areas.”

Future of the Historic Lahaina

The historic town of Lahaina sustained the most damage from the wildfire, with many parts completely destroyed and still off-limits to visitors. Lahaina was once a former capital of the Hawaiian kingdom. 

Yet some of the town’s buildings and sites have survived.

“There are things like the famous Lahaina Banyan Tree that are showing signs of renewed life, places like Old Lahaina Luau on the waterfront, which just reopened recently,” said Gionson.

The community is trying to figure out how to rebuild Lahaina.

“I don’t think the tourism industry should drive the conversation about what happens next,” said Gionson. “It’s a community conversation that needs to be had.”

Maui’s Ongoing Marketing Confusion

On August 8, Maui’s western region suffered a devastating wildfire that killed over 100 people, damaged thousands of buildings, and caused over $5 billion in damage. 

The government initially said that the whole island was off-limits to tourists, but then said that applied only to the western portion. That area didn’t fully reopen until November.

Immediately after the fire, the Hawaii Tourism Authority ran a campaign called Mālama Maui – “to protect, nurture and care for” – to try to stop people from canceling trips to Maui’s still-open and unaffected areas.

Yet, as of today, the whole island continues to struggle.

“We’re almost nine months since the fire, and we continue to hear ‘We’re not sure if Maui is open,’ or ‘We’re not sure if we should go,’ said Gionson.

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Tags: hawaii , marketing , marketing campaign , maui , tourism , tourism campaigns

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I’ve Got a Trip to Maui Planned. Should I Still Go?

While the west side and parts of the interior of the Hawaiian island struggle to recover from devastating wildfires, other areas are unaffected. Our Maui-based writer asked locals and business owners if they still want tourists.

Heading out the door? Read this article on the Outside app available now on iOS devices for members! >","name":"in-content-cta","type":"link"}}'>Download the app .

Any number of concerns are on our radar as we plan our next trip, from serious issues like how destinations are working to mitigate tourists’ environmental impact to inconveniences like months-long passport wait times. In this column, our travel expert addresses your questions about how to navigate the world. 

I’m supposed to go to Maui in a couple of weeks for a long-planned vacation. I love the island and don’t want to add to the suffering or be disrespectful by showing up after the fires. But I also know that businesses probably need tourism dollars more than ever right now. Should I still go? —A Concerned Traveler

I understand how you feel. I’ve lived between Maui’s North Shore and the upcountry town of Haiku off and on for ten years. I flew out the day before the wildfires took place for a work trip. Sadly, many of my friends were gravely affected, losing homes and businesses.

I asked some of my local acquaintances for their thoughts on traveling to Maui at this time.

Dustin Tester, the owner of Maui Surfer Girls , did a roll call of her employees last week to make sure they had all survived the island’s catastrophic wildfires. Her surf school and the majority of her 12 instructors are based out of Lahaina, the historic town on the west coast that was turned to ashes. While seven of her employees lost their homes, they’re all safe, albeit coping with serious trauma. The surf’s schools cabins where they hold camps, located outside of Lahaina at Olowalu Point, survived. The company’s Toyota Tundra and the dozen boards it transports were incinerated.

One employee barely escaped the flames on Lahaina’s Front Street with their ten-month-old and six-year-old. Another hunkered down in a car for 17 hours in a cement parking structure in a local outlet mall. “Every instructor has a harrowing story,” says Tester, who created a GoFundMe page for her staff.

The blaze that destroyed Lahaina, once the capital of the Hawaiian Kingdom, is now the deadliest U.S. wildfire in over a century. It has thus far claimed more than 100 lives, a number that is expected to rise with 1,300 people still missing, warned Hawaii governor Josh Green.

Survivors are just beginning to feel the effects of the disaster, the cause of which is still being determined. Upcountry Maui, an area on the western slopes of Haleakala that includes the towns of Makawao and Kula, is still battling fires; 19 homes there have already been reported destroyed.

While saving lives and recovery efforts in the Lahaina area are still of the utmost importance at this time, some tourists with plans to travel to Maui are asking if it’s okay to visit other parts of the island right now. I also know from reporting a story that disastrous events like this can result in many local companies going out of business because of the huge drop in tourism dollars from canceled trips.

Tester acknowledges that it’s still a fluid situation on the west side of the island at this time but told me: “We want and need tourists going forward. By coming, you’d be providing a livelihood for my instructors and other local businesses, and I’m thinking of ways that visitors can give back when they come to a surf camp in the future.”

Should You Travel to Maui Right Now? It Depends on Who You Talk To.

And also where you want to go. In his latest emergency proclamation, Governor Green urged travelers to postpone all nonessential travel to West Maui, which includes the popular resort spots of Napili, Kaanapali, Kapalua, and Lahaina, so that resources there can be used to help residents recover. As for other parts of the island, messaging has been mixed.

On August 12, the Hawaii Tourism Authority suggested that tourists should only refrain from visiting West Maui. “Maui is not closed,” Maui County mayor Richard Bissen said at a press conference over the weekend. “Many of our residents make their living off of tourism.”

The airport has remained open the entire time and major airlines are still flying to the island.

Other native Hawaiians, like musician Paula Fuga and actor Jason Momoa, feel differently and have used social media to urge tourists to cancel their trips. “Our community needs time to heal, drive, and restore,” posted Momoa.

Cole Millington, a Lahaina resident who lost his home and business, has been gobsmacked seeing tour boats holding snorkel tours on the island’s west side days after bodies burned in those waters. “It’s not the tourists’ fault,” he told me. “But it underscores a pathetic divide between people who live here and tourists who think Maui is Disneyland. We ask that people give us time before we have to put on an aloha smile and be at your service.”

Tester understands both points of view. Most surf schools on West Maui were destroyed, and surf breaks like Breakwall in Lahaina won’t be accessible for a long time. Authorities are also still evaluating the extent of environmental damage. Maui Surfer Girls typically operates just south of Lahaina, at Ukumehame Beach Park. This area isn’t considered a disaster zone, yet the beach can’t be reached due to road blocks.

“Right now we’ve decided to close,” Tester says. “If the roads reopen, we could technically hold lessons, but there’s a lot of politics around that.” She also noted that instructors have told her they’d rather be helping with recovery efforts than working. She doesn’t foresee reopening until Thanksgiving.

Tester surfed in Kihei, on the island’s south side, a few days ago, where she says it felt like business as usual. “So many tourists were taking surf lessons two days after the fires,” she says. “It felt greedy and insensitive, but I get it. Surf schools have families and need to survive. This is high season.”

How Is Tourism Being Affected on Maui After the Fires?

The repercussions of the fires on the island’s tourism industry have already started to be felt, leaving many local business owners reeling from flashbacks reminiscent of the  pandemic shutdown. More than 11,000 people—most of them visitors—have flown off the island since the fires began. Airlines like Southwest and American, have issued travel vouchers and waived change fees for flights to Maui through August 31. The number of airline passengers to Maui on Sunday was down nearly 81 percent compared to this time last year, according to the Hawaii Department of Business, Economic Development and Tourism.

Hotels in West Maui have temporarily stopped accepting bookings on future reservations so they can house employees, evacuees, and first responders. Vacation rental owners in west-side towns have also been encouraged to make accommodations available to the displaced. Hotel operator Hilton Worldwide Holdings, which has 23 hotels throughout Hawaii, said it was waiving cancellation penalties for those traveling to, from, or through all of the islands until the end of the month.

Airbnb owners across Maui have reported receiving cancellations through March 2024. Amy Varain, who owns an Airbnb in the upcountry town of Haiku, which was not affected by the fires, says guests booked to stay at her property even as late as December have called to cancel based on the destruction they’re seeing on the news.

“I completely understand that reaction,” Varain says. “All you see if you search online is everything about the fires, and no one talks about how this is concentrated on one part of the island. Our island is 100 percent tourism driven. Without visitors our whole island will suffer. The rest of the island still needs their kind support and visits.” She has been trying to educate guests by posting on social media to remind them how much of Maui has been unaffected by the fires.

Brett Sheerin, owner of Maui True North, a kitesurf and surf school, says people who have lost their jobs are desperately calling him to see if he needs instructors. Like Tester, he typically teaches surf lessons in West Maui and worries that the water is now toxic. He doesn’t have enough business to bring on new hires though, and currently can only operate kitesurfing lessons on another side of the island.

“Everyone here already works two or three jobs,” he says. “I call it the Maui hustle. I have money saved, my house did not burn, and I could last six months to a year if I don’t make another dime, but a lot of people are going to have to leave the island if we don’t have tourism jobs.”

How to Be a Conscientious Visitor if You Go to Maui Right Now

If you are planning to visit Maui in the coming months, do so with compassion and aloha. Many residents have lost loved ones, homes, and businesses. Be sensitive to what they are going through. “I’m telling friends to think of this as our 9/11,” says Sheerin.

West Maui is off limits and will likely remain so until the end of the year, according to officials. But other parts of the island, including Hana, Wailea, and Paia, depend on tourism dollars.

If you’re inclined to volunteer, several organizations, like Maui Humane Society and Maui Food Bank , welcome visitors’ time and energy. Caitlin Carroll, who works for the Pacific Whale Foundation and lost her Lahaina home, says: “Anyone who comes should be prepared to put their boots on and help.”

Maui Rapid Response , a citizen disaster response team, is looking to assign volunteers to appropriate work that matches their skill sets. Jobs include food distribution, tree cutting and clearing, and clean-up efforts.

And it almost goes without saying that if and when you visit Maui, put your tourism dollars toward local businesses wherever you are.

Jen Murphy is an Outside correspondent who has lived part-time on Maui’s North Shore and upcountry for over a decade. Among other stories, she writes a travel advice column for Outside . She has been deeply saddened to see so many parts of the island suffer but inspired by the community’s resiliency and islanders’ unwavering support for each other.

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As Maui Begins to Recover, Travelers Must Help Rebuild

By Noelani Goodyear-Kaʻōpua

All products featured on Condé Nast Traveler are independently selected by our editors. However, when you buy something through our retail links, we may earn an affiliate commission.

As smoke rolled over their Lahaina neighborhood, Akanesi Vaa , her husband, and their three kids rushed to their car. The clear blue sky went grey, then black, in what seemed like a few heartbeats. Homes burned around them. Intense heat radiated through the car doors. Then came a banging at the window, as an elderly woman pleaded, “Please help me, I have a baby.” Vaa looked for a way forward: Should she keep moving to get her kids out of harm’s way, or stop to help this elder?

She plucked the toddler from the car and yelled to her own children to run—and not wait for her. The entire family survived.

Vaa's story is not unique. Lahaina residents suffered harrowing trauma as wildfires engulfed their town on August 8. And like Vaa, many have engaged in countless acts of courage and selflessness in caring for one another—whether it be saving the life of someone more vulnerable or opening the doors of their home to those who have lost their own.

As the scorched ground of Lahaina cools, some travelers may now be asking: Should I vacation in Maui or not? When will it be okay for me to visit? 

While the Hawaiʻi Tourism Authority and Governor Josh Green are encouraging travel to other parts of Maui, many survivors and some celebrities are asking tourists not to vacation on Maui. Finding answers will not be easy, but here is the bottom line: Maui is grieving. Thousands of residents have lost everything: the homes they grew up in and raised their children in; the community centers and businesses they built; the schools they attended; the sacred spaces where they worshiped. Families of the missing still await word of whether their loved ones are gone forever. Ashes floating on the Lahaina winds still carry the remains of the deceased. All Maui’s estimated 165,000 residents have experienced loss of some kind. If you do decide to travel, ask yourself, how should I enter into a community in mourning?

Even before the fires, Maui was suffering. A precursor to the immediate devastation of the wildfires is the slower violence of overtourism . In 2020—as Hawai‘i reflected on a path forward following Covid lockdowns—the Hawai‘i Tourism Authority’s annual survey found that the majority of residents said tourism brought more problems than benefits . Responsible travelers have also begun pondering the potential impacts of their presence on Maui. So much so, that Fodor's placed Maui on its 2023 “No List” which flags regions tourists should reconsider due to threats of environmental damage—placing it under the “Destinations Suffering From Water Crises” category. (In June 2022, after years of severe drought, strict water restrictions were placed on Maui residents, but not on resorts.) And when it comes to real estate, out-of-state buyers have fueled soaring home prices : The airport is littered with realtor advertisements, yet the housing crisis will only become more acute now these fires destroyed over a thousand homes . 

The magnitude of Lāhainā’s losses go even deeper when considering the town’s historical and cultural significance for Kanaka Maoli (Indigenous/Aboriginal Hawaiians). Lāhainā has been a center of political and spiritual power for hundreds of years, long before it was a tourist destination, or a plantation town, or a whaling port. The wetlands of Lele evolved over millennia, and for centuries Kanaka Maoli cultivated these spring-fed lands, planting breadfruit groves and taro fields, constructing fishponds to sustain a thriving population.

That history of abundance lives on through people like Ke‘eaumoku Kapu, who works tirelessly to share ancestral knowledge and to keep water flowing to natural ecosystems and family farms. The Lāhainā cultural cente r that Kapu stewarded was burned to the ground in the fire. Still, within a few days, he and his wife, Uʻilani, had organized a supply hub in a Lāhainā parking lot to tend to community members whom government efforts had not reached. He and other Lāhainā community leaders formed Nā ʻOhana o Lele, a coalition working to assure that Kanaka Maoli are central to discussions about how to rebuild their community.

If you have visited Maui in the past, or plan to travel there in the future, know that you too have a responsibility to help rebuild—to give to this place. Below, three things you can do to contribute to the healing and regeneration.

Reconsider your vacation funds

Consider redirecting money you would have spent on a Maui vacation toward those who have lost everything. On Instagram, @lahaina_ohana_venmo highlights families you can support. Trustworthy non-profit organizations providing disaster relief include:

• Hawai‘i Peoples’ Fund’s Maui Aloha: The People's Response
• Council for Native Hawaiian Advancement’s Kākoʻo Maui fund
• Hawai‘i Community Foundation’s Maui Strong fund

Learn the history

Platforms like Kanaeokana are a great resource to learn more about the history of Maui and Hawai‘i, and of the on-going struggles of Kanaka Maoli for justice and for water .

If you are set on traveling to Maui, start by asking “how can I help?” Ask local folks you encounter how they are doing. Ask how you can be supportive. Center the survivors, rather your own memories of Maui before the fires. Listen. Tourism in Hawaiʻi takes more than it gives, so strive for reciprocity.

Dr. Noelani Goodyear-Kaʻōpua is a professor of Native Hawaiian and Indigenous politics at the University of Hawaiʻi at Mānoa. Her research and writings focus on Hawaiian social movements, education, and futures-making. Her books include The Seeds We Planted , A Nation Rising , Nā Wāhine Koa , and The Value of Hawaiʻi series.

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Traveling to Hawaii? Here's what to know about the Maui fires.

By Megan Cerullo

Updated on: August 15, 2023 / 2:53 PM EDT / MoneyWatch

Hawaii is a noted tourist destination, but after deadly wildfires wreaked havoc on Maui and other islands, it declared a state of emergency in all counties. Hawaiian officials are discouraging nonessential travel to Maui amidst the fire's destruction on that island.

Major airlines are assisting in efforts to evacuate residents and visitors from danger zones. People with trips planned to the second-largest Hawaiian island are being asked to postpone them, with airlines and accommodation providers offering travelers flexibility to rebook. 

Here's what to know if you have a vacation in Hawaii scheduled. 

What parts of Hawaii are experiencing fires?

A major blaze largely destroyed  the historic town of Lahaina, on Maui. As of Sunday officials said the Lahaina fire was 85% contained.

Fires also affected Kihei and Upcountry Maui, as well as the northwest part of the island of Hawaii, between Hapuna and Kawaihae.

Can I still go to Maui?

The Hawaii Tourism Authority is strongly discouraging nonessential travel to West Maui for the foreseeable future. Even tourists who are already there are encouraged to depart immediately, if they can. 

Thousands of residents have evacuated their homes and major roadways on the island remain closed. 

"Vacation travel to West Maui is strongly discouraged for the near future. Visitors in West Maui have largely heeded the call to leave the island. About 46,000 people have flown out of Kahului Airport since Wednesday," the Hawaii Tourism Authority said in a statement Saturday. 

On Monday, the travel authority reiterated that all non-essential travel to West Maui remains discouraged through the end of August, in line with Gov. Josh Green's latest  emergency proclamation .

Visitors with plans to visit other parts of Maui are urged to reach out to their accommodation providers to ensure they can still be hosted.

Concerns over drop in tourism

Some hosts on parts of the island that remain able to welcome tourists are concerned that guest cancellations could hamper the island's recovery from the wildfires. 

A small business owner with a condo in Kihei, on Maui's southwest shore, said that while it's safe to visit, guests have been canceling reservations into the month of November.

The host, Chandrika McLaughlin, added that it's important that tourists continue patronizing businesses like hers so that she and others retain the means to support Mauians whose lives have been uprooted by the wildfires. 

To be sure, would-be visitors to West Maui are still being asked to postpone their trips in part because federal, state and county governments are primarily focused on helping displaced residents and affected businesses. 

"Visitors with plans to stay in West Maui in the coming weeks and months are urged to consider rescheduling their travel plans for a later time when the overall situation has improved for area residents," the Tourism Authority said. 

Travel to the island of Hawaii remains unaffected, and the government said it remains safe to visit other islands.

Are commercial airlines flying to Maui?

Some are and some aren't. Many airlines are offering travel waivers that allow customers with immediate plans to travel to Maui to rebook their flights without fees, or to cancel them altogether for credit or, in some cases, a full refund. 

"With the exception of basic economy tickets, almost all U.S. airlines allow you flexibility to either reschedule your trip or cancel and get the full amount you paid back for travel credit for future trips," Scott Keyes, of travel site Going told CBS MoneyWatch. "So, you automatically have a lot of flexibility to change your plans or save flight credit for a future trip. That was not really the case pre-pandemic."

The U.S. Department of Transportation issued a travel alert describing how major airlines serving Maui's Kahului Airport have adjusted their operations and implemented flexible change policies for customers.

UNITED AIRLINES

United Airlines said it's prioritizing the welfare of its employees on Maui and has scrapped commercial flights to the island. It is instead using empty passenger planes to carry Maui residents off the island.

"We've canceled today's inbound flights to Kahului Airport so our planes can fly empty to Maui and be used as passenger flights back to the mainland," the airline said in a statement to CBS MoneyWatch.

The airline also has  waivers  in place for United passengers who had been scheduled to fly to or from Kahului airport on Maui, as well as Honolulu airport. 

Customers who were originally scheduled to fly between August 11 and September 16, and purchased tickets before August 9 may reschedule their trips and have any change fees and fare differences waived. The new ticket must be for a flight scheduled to depart before October 1. Passengers who wish to cancel their trips altogether are entitled to full refunds. 

AMERICAN AIRLINES

For its part, American Airlines is also waiving change fees on all flights to and from Hawaiian airports, through August 18. 

ALASKA AIRLINES

Alaska Air has a "flexible travel policy" in place that allows customers to change their flights at no cost through August 31 or cancel them in exchange for a travel voucher worth the cost of the flight.

Some would-be visitors to Maui said on X, the social media platform formerly known as Twitter, that they wanted outright refunds from airlines, as opposed to the option of rebooking within a short time frame. Given the extent of devastation the wildfires have caused, it may be some time before travelers may want to rebook.

Southwest Airlines said it had added flights between islands and back to the mainland U.S. "to keep people and supplies moving." Some fares from Maui to the mainland U.S. are under $100. 

Hawaiian Airlines also said it's adding extra flights between Maui and Honolulu for as little as $19 "to facilitate urgent travel."

The Hawaii Tourism Authority added that "airlines are being very supportive during this emergency crisis and providing additional flights to help visitors depart from Maui. Airlines are also adjusting their travel schedules to support those visitors who had planned to arrive this week."

Will I be compensated for my hotel accommodations?

Hotels and resorts in vulnerable areas have lost power, halted service and stopped accepting guests altogether. Some are providing full refunds to scheduled guests, depending on the time of their planned stay.

They've temporarily stopped accepting new reservations, too, given the uncertainty of the situation. Hotels have pivoted from accepting guests to housing their employees and families until the fires are fully contained and travel on roadways becomes safe again. 

They are also equipped to house evacuees and first responders helping with disaster relief efforts. 

Furthermore, the Tourism Authority is asking visitors with forthcoming reservations not to try to contact their accommodation providers at this time, so as not to tie up or overburden their limited bandwidths.

"While efforts are underway to restore basic services, like power and communications, visitors are encouraged to refrain from attempting to reach West Maui accommodations for reservation adjustments until the situation improves," it said. 

The Hyatt Regency Maui Resort and Spa said the hotel is "closed to arrivals and not accepting guests" for the time being. It will issue refunds including for deposits and prepayments to guests who had been scheduled to stay at the property through the weekend. 

Homesharing site Airbnb said its extenuating circumstances policy has gone into effect for parts of Hawaii, including all of Maui. It is also allowing hosts and guests to cancel their stays without penalty. Guest are entitled to full refunds for reservations in the area they don't use.  

Non-refundable reservations

In the case of non-refundable reservations, a travel insurance policy could help you recoup payments related to a trip you didn't take. 

For travelers already on Maui, some of these policies also come with medical evacuation options that can help visitors on the island get to safer ground.

Some credit card companies already have protections related to travel built-in, without requiring that you sign up for additional protections.

"Many of them automatically include travel insurance, so check and see what you're entitled to," Keyes said.

—With reporting by Elizabeth Napolitano

Megan Cerullo is a New York-based reporter for CBS MoneyWatch covering small business, workplace, health care, consumer spending and personal finance topics. She regularly appears on CBS News 24/7 to discuss her reporting.

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36 Hours on Maui

By Shannon Wianecki April 25, 2024

• Share full article

By Shannon Wianecki Photographs by Michelle Mishina Kunz

Shannon Wianecki grew up in Hawaii and writes about the islands regularly.

Maui is the Goldilocks island: It is neither too big nor too small, and for its three million annual visitors, its perfect year-round temperature, rainbow-splashed volcanic summits and sugary beaches are just right. But last August, Maui’s equilibrium met disaster. Catastrophic wildfires reduced the historic town of Lahaina to ash, claiming more than 100 lives . Conflicting messages urged visitors to stay away and let the island heal, but also to come and help sustain the economy. Eight months later, the message is more unified that Maui is ready to greet tourists again. Housing remains a critical need for displaced residents. Lahaina will take years to rebuild. But Maui’s inherent beauty and hospitality remain as vibrant as ever. It’s a great time to explore Central and South Maui, where new cocktail bars, outrigger canoe tours and Indigenous art exhibits reveal the community’s creativity and resilience.

Recommendations

• The 10,000-foot summit of Haleakalā National Park (pronounced with an emphasis on “la”) has a view of the rising sun, volcanic vistas and some of the planet’s rarest plants and birds.
• The Hale Hō‘ike‘ike museum showcases Hawaiian artwork, carved deities and a redwood plank surfboard owned by the legendary swimmer and surfer Duke Kahanamoku.
• Balai Pata is a new restaurant that celebrates Filipino flavors with savory soups, desserts big enough for two and monthly karaoke nights.
• The Wailea Beach Path meanders along South Maui’s photogenic coast between posh resorts and the deep blue Pacific.
• The hiking trails at ‘Īao Valley State Monument (pronounced EE-ow) penetrate the lush West Maui Mountains, winding past waterfalls and taro patches.
• Enormous murals by Small Town Big Art , a public art project, in colorful and historic Wailuku town, are worth taking a stroll to see, and they’re navigable by an online map.
• Blue Water Rafting ’s exhilarating tours of the Kanaio Coast explore hidden coves, sea caves and charismatic marine life.
• Ho‘okipa Beach Park , one of the world’s top surf spots, is also a great place to spy on napping sea turtles.
• Oao Sushi Bar & Grill offers beautifully prepared Japanese fare, such as inventive sushi rolls and purple-yam pot de crème, in a Wailea shopping center.
• Tikehau Lounge serves seasonal craft cocktails made with local spirits and garnished with tiny katana swords and surfboards.
• Kaohu Store is a mom-and-pop grocery that produces the island’s best poke, raw fish mixed with traditional seasonings such as ground kukui nuts and seaweed.
• Tails Up Maui , a partnership between a local chef and a fisherman, serves excellent fish sandwiches and chicken plates.
• Wailuku Coffee Co. is the place to stop for Maui-grown coffee or espresso while exploring Wailuku.
• Esters Fair Prospect , a charming tropical bar on Wailuku’s Main Street, serves daiquiris made with a choice of three dozen rums and appetizers featuring fresh marlin.
• Mama’s Fish House , a celebrated restaurant on a secluded lagoon, lists the names of the fishermen who caught the snapper and octopus on its menu.
• On Saturday mornings, the Upcountry Farmers Market is a miniature street fair with live music and vendors offering a bounty of Maui-grown produce and prepared foods.
• ‘Oko‘a Farm Store sells a cornucopia of organic tropical fruits and vegetables in fresh, dried and powdered form.
• T. Komoda Store and Bakery , which has served the Maui community for more than a century, sells out of its cream puffs and butter rolls daily.
• Sabado Art Gallery is where the local artist Philip Sabado paints, teaches workshops and sells his color-saturated impressions of Maui landscapes and hula dancers.
• Native Intelligence offers a wealth of Hawaiian art and fashion: Locals come here for Aloha shirts and sarongs, fine jewelry and fresh flower leis.
• Four Seasons Resort Maui sets the standard for service with poolside spritzes, immaculate housekeeping and a terrific complimentary kids’ camp. Guests can book spa treatments in oceanfront huts and outrigger canoe excursions that launch from the resort’s adjoining beach. Rooms start at $1,095 a night.
• Hotel Wailea is an adults-only boutique hotel on a hill overlooking South Maui. While not directly on the beach, it’s only a short shuttle ride away. Elegant suites are spacious (750 square feet with kitchenettes) and the Birdcage lounge is a prime spot for toasting the sunset. Rooms start at $799.
• Maui Kamaole is a condo complex across the street from Kama‘ole Beach Park III, between Wailea and Kihei on Maui’s south shore. One- and two-bedroom units feature full kitchens, laundry facilities and lush landscaping. Rooms start at $500.
• Since the recent fire intensified the housing shortage, visitors should avoid short-term rentals in residential areas. Instead, book hotels that offer in-room kitchens, such as Fairmont Kea Lani or Mana Kai Maui .
• The best way to explore the island is by car . The major rental companies each have kiosks at Kahului Airport. Taxis and ride-hailing services are available, but long distances between destinations make this an expensive option. Maui’s public transit is limited. The Maui Bus operates 12 routes, including two that stop at the airport. One-way fares cost $2; day passes are $4.

Wailea Beach Path

The Wailea Beach Path , which meanders along the island’s southern coast, reflects Maui’s almost contradictory personas: On one side, opulent resorts flaunt swim-up bars and nightly torch-lighting ceremonies. A subtler drama unfolds on the opposite side, where native flora like honey-scented naio bushes, spiky hala trees and hibiscus blossoms flourish along the rocky shoreline. Sit and listen to the sea rush through the lava rocks as the sun drops between three islands: Lanai, Kahoolawe and tiny Molokini. In the 1970s, nine Native Hawaiians occupied Kahoolawe in defiance of the U.S. military, which had been using the island as a bombing range for decades. Their daring protest sparked what is now known as the Hawaiian Renaissance — a revival of Indigenous culture that continues today.

Head to Oao Sushi Bar & Grill in the Wailea area for beautifully prepared Japanese fare. The owner and head chef, J.R. Oao, sharpened his knife at Maui’s best sushi bars (including a stint at Nobu Lana‘i) before opening his first brick-and-mortar restaurant last year (he also has a food truck in Kihei, a few miles north). His signature rolls are balanced and inventive: Try the baked California roll ($22), served hot and loaded with shrimp and scallops. Juicy seared lamb chops rest on a smear of umami-rich red miso ($42). Even the salads impress — bright cilantro vinaigrette with a hint of horseradish enlivens a simple mix of Maui-grown greens, roasted corn and goat cheese ($16). For dessert, the ube pot de crème ($14), made from purple yam, is luscious, light and almost cartoonishly bright.

The name of Tikehau , a new lounge in Wailea, means “peaceful landing.” The bar, which opened in November and is quietly raising the standard for craft cocktails statewide, was true to its name for Mari Howe, its manager, and other staff who came to work here after losing jobs or homes to the Lahaina fire. Everything is thoughtfully selected, from the gold-leaf wallpaper to the crystal stemware. Garnishes are coveted souvenirs; a tiny surfboard floats atop the Thousand Peaks ($19) — a lagoon-blue Paloma topped with jasmine-tea “sea foam.” The Hawaiian Samurai ($50), a top-shelf-whiskey libation, comes with a miniature katana sword. Ms. Howe’s seasonal menu incorporates local spirits and mixers: fresh pineapple juice, Kō Hana rum and okolehao, a moonshine made from Hawaiian ti plants. Upscale snacks include poisson cru, a raw-fish dish ($25), and smoked taro hummus ($15).

Explore the rugged Kanaio Coast’s hidden coves and sea caves with a rafting tour.

This morning mission requires preparation. First, book a sunrise reservation at Haleakalā National Park well in advance ($1 permit, $30 park entrance). Then pack really warm clothes. In the darkness, drive slowly up the 10,000-foot volcano; fog often obscures cattle and native geese loitering in hairpin turns. Your efforts will be rewarded at the peak — first by the velvet sky awash with stars, then by the sun’s rays spilling across the fire-forged mountain. Notice how the silverswords (hedgehog-like plants that grow only here) sparkle in the golden light. As you descend, stop at Hosmer Grove , where a short hike leads to a forest full of Hawaiian honeycreepers , birds that are among some of the planet’s rarest.

Midway down Haleakalā, stop at the Upcountry Farmers Market . Every Saturday morning, the Kulamalu Town Center parking lot turns into a miniature street fair with live music and vendors offering a dizzying array of Maui-grown produce and prepared foods. You’ll find things to eat immediately — fresh coconut, vegan sweet-potato cheesecake and Venezuelan arepas — as well as things to stash in your suitcase, like passion-fruit butter and macadamia nuts. Don’t miss the ‘Oko‘a Farm Store , which migrated from the market into an adjacent storefront. The store’s 46-acre farm supplies a cornucopia of tropical fruits and vegetables; its shelves teem with jars of pickled, powdered, and freeze-dried treats and tonics.

Baldwin Avenue

Take the scenic drive back to sea level through historic Makawao and Paia towns. Bordered by a rodeo arena and a polo field , Makawao is the charming headquarters of the paniolo, Hawaiian cowboys who continue to rope and ride across the island’s lush ranchlands. On the corner of Makawao and Baldwin Avenues you’ll see T. Komoda Store and Bakery ; this beloved family-run business, which has served the community since 1916, sells out of its cream puffs and butter rolls daily. Follow Baldwin past the defunct sugar mill to Paia. Once a busy sugar plantation hub surrounded by green cane fields, it’s now home to surfers and artists. As you pass Baldwin Beach, admire the view of the rain-carved West Maui Mountains. The morning light often reveals the hidden interior of ‘Īao Valley, your next destination.

Wailuku River

Head to Kaohu Store in Wailuku for lunch to go. This mom-and-pop grocery offers the island’s best poke — raw fish mixed with traditional seasonings such as ground kukui nuts and seaweed (from $18 a pound). Add two scoops of rice and crunchy fern salad for a truly local meal. If you prefer a cooked lunch, visit Tails Up Maui for a classy fish sandwich ($19) or mochiko (rice flour) fried chicken ($17). Take your picnic to Kepaniwai Park , where model houses commemorate the diverse cultures of Hawaii’s sugar plantation era, and dip your feet into the Wailuku River. Continue to ‘ Īao Valley State Monument (out-of-state visitors need reservations; $5 entrance fee, $10 parking). Paved walkways wind through a traditional lo‘i kalo (taro patch), past multiple waterfalls and up to a stunning lookout.

Peruse the art and artifacts at Hale Hō‘ike‘ike , a captivating repository of Hawaiian culture in the former home of the missionary-artist Edward Bailey. Exhibits showcase Hawaiian feather work and quilts, carved deities, and paintings depicting 19th-century Maui. Imagine trying to paddle the legendary swimmer and surfer Duke Kahanamoku’s redwood plank surfboard into the waves (entry, $10). From there, stroll through Wailuku, Maui’s somewhat sleepy seat of local government. Narrow side streets yield many treasures: See enormous street murals (use the online map by Small Town Big Art , a public art project), admire the color-saturated paintings at Sabado Art Gallery and find refreshment at Wailuku Coffee Co. or Esters Fair Prospect , a cocktail bar. After shopping for Hawaiian books and clothing at Native Intelligence , buy yourself a fragrant flower lei to wear for the duration of your trip.

At Balai Pata , a new Filipino restaurant in Kahului, a celebration of the flavors that the chef and owner Joey Macadangdang grew up with is a welcome addition to Maui’s restaurant scene. Plump Kauai prawns sauteed in garlicky fish sauce ($17) set the stage for savory sinigang ($30) — tamarind broth loaded with long beans, okra and fish. For dessert, two can share the halo-halo ($18) — crushed ice topped with avocado, ube ice cream, coconut cream and fruit jellies, served in a coconut shell. The décor reflects a bright, homespun aesthetic, and once a month, local families fill the restaurant for late-night happy hour and karaoke battles — check Instagram for dates.

Jumping into a pool in Kepaniwai Park.

Blue Water Rafting

A trip to Maui isn’t complete without ducking underwater to spy on clouds of striped manini fish, eagle rays and turtles. While most snorkel tours start at Mā‘alaea Harbor, Blue Water Rafting boards at the Kihei boat ramp — offering easier access and one of the only tours of Kanaio Coast’s hidden coves and sea caves ($179, four hours). Climb into the rigid-hulled raft beside two dozen other passengers (fewer than the big tour boats) and watch for dolphins. In winter, close encounters with whales are common. As you peer into the pristine bay formed by Maui’s youngest lava flow, imagine the Polynesian wayfinders sailing here centuries ago, followed by the French explorer La Pérouse in 1786. The ride is exhilarating but bumpy.

Don’t be shy: Wear your flower lei to lunch at Mama’s Fish House . Old-style hospitality reigns at this celebrated restaurant on a sheltered lagoon. Servers greet you in vintage Aloha wear and offer complimentary bowls of poi (pounded taro — a staple of the traditional Hawaiian diet). The menu is pricey but worthy; long before it was fashionable, Mama’s listed who caught each fish and where. A recent menu featured sea bass hooked by Ivan Ventura in Hana ($68). If you ordered only dessert, you’d still leave happy; the Polynesian Black Pearl ($24) is an edible version of “The Birth of Venus”: chocolate mousse and passion fruit ensconced in a cookie seashell. Tables can book up a year out. After lunch, drive two minutes east to Ho‘okipa Beach Park , where surfers carve waves and sea turtles bask on the sand.

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What to do if you have a trip planned for Hawaii

Maui was hit hard by devastating wildfires fueled by hurricane-force winds. The fires caused catastrophic damage. Heartbreakingly, they are the deadliest the U.S. has experienced in many years.

The worst fires occurred in West Maui, as the historic area of Lahaina was completely destroyed by flames that are still only 90% contained. According to the Maui Emergency Management Agency's most recent alert Monday, a fire in the Upcountry area of Kula is still only 85% contained.

President Joe Biden signed an emergency disaster declaration for the state of Hawaii, and the Federal Emergency Management Agency is coordinating recovery operations. On Monday, the president and Jill Biden traveled to Maui to survey the damage firsthand.

During the president's visit and joint press conference, Hawaii Gov. Josh Green again addressed the growing community concern about ensuring the economic well-being of Maui and the state, emphasizing the importance of travel.

"No one can travel to West Maui right now. We will share when that is possible again. Only returning residents and authorized emergency relief workers should come here now. But all of the other areas of Maui ... and the rest of Hawai'i are safe," Green said. "When you come, you will support our local economy and help speed the recovery of the people that are suffering right now."

A statement from the Hawaii Tourism Authority said that Green's sixth emergency proclamation , issued Aug. 19, remains in place, with all nonessential travel to West Maui being strongly discouraged for the duration of the proclamation (through Oct. 17).

Daily update videos on the disaster recovery are also being posted to the governor's Facebook page .

Given Maui's popularity as a vacation destination, numerous would-be tourists likely have upcoming trips scheduled. Given the scale of the disaster on the island, they now need to make some decisions about their upcoming plans to visit to allow the island to focus on recovery efforts.

Here's what to know if you have an upcoming trip to Maui.

Is it safe to travel to Maui right now?

It is currently not safe to travel to West Maui due to the multiple uncontained wildfires and evacuation orders that are in place.

Still, the governor has declared other areas of Maui safe and open for travel.

The Hawaii Tourism Authority released an updated travel advisory after Green's press conference, along with a map of the affected and restricted areas.

In alignment with Governor Green, the Hawai'i Tourism Authority urges visitors to refrain from going to West Maui (including Lahaina, Nāpili, Kāʻanapali, and Kapalua) as a means of respect to the people and places that have been lost in Lahaina during this devastating tragedy. The impacted area of Lahaina remains off limits to the public as the search and recovery efforts continue.

We encourage travelers to consider visiting other areas of Maui (including Kahului, Wailuku, Kīhei, Wailea, Mākena, Pāʻia and Hāna), as well as the other Hawaiian Islands of Kauaʻi, Oʻahu, Lānaʻi, Molokaʻi and Hawaiʻi Island.

Even when it is safe to travel to West Maui again, that part of the island will have limited resources and infrastructure.

Residents and visitors with upcoming travel bookings are encouraged to check with their airline for any flight changes and cancellations, or assistance with rebooking.

When might it be OK to travel to Maui?

At this time, it is unclear when West Maui will reopen, but the devastation to historic Lahaina is very substantial. As a result, disaster recovery operations will likely be very lengthy.

The Hawaii Tourism Authority released a statement last week that included a section devoted to common questions and answers and appears to be updated on a regular basis.

At this time, hotels in West Maui have temporarily stopped accepting bookings of future reservations and are housing their employees and families, evacuees, and first responders working on disaster recovery – well over 1,000 people so far with more to come.

Other areas on Maui (including Kahului, Wailuku, Kīhei, Wailea, Mākena, Pāʻia and Hāna), as well as the other Hawaiian Islands of Kauaʻi, Oʻahu, Lānaʻi, Molokaʻi and Hawaiʻi Island remain unaffected. We urge visitors to be especially mindful and respectful in our island home as our community continues through this tragedy.

Based on the updated information shared by the governor and the statement released by the Hawaii Tourism Authority, they are encouraging travelers to consider visiting other areas of Maui. Such areas include Kahului, Wailuku, Kihei, Wailea, Makena, Paia and Hana.

Some hotels in other parts of the island, such as the Grand Wailea, a Waldorf Astoria Resort, have posted regularly updated statements on their websites.

It has been over a week now since wildfires decimated the historic town of Lahaina. Disaster recovery efforts are ongoing in West Maui, and supplies are flowing into the affected areas on a regular basis. And while the restoration of the land and community will take years, we know that Maui's tight-knit community will get through this together. We are grateful that the Wailea region of South Maui was not impacted and that all of our team members are safe and accounted for. Grand Wailea continues to welcome guests with aloha.

As we look toward the future of our island, it is more important now than ever that guests and groups continue to visit Maui. In a statement, the HLTA [Hawaii Lodging & Tourism Association] noted, "Yes, we must be sensitive to the plight of those suffering from the wildfires. But bear in mind that so many of the victims and their families depend on the visitor industry for their jobs and futures. While they may have lost their homes and more, losing their incomes would only add to the pain and hardship of their situation. That's why it's important to keep tourism functioning to keep our economy alive and give our people hope and the ability to rebuild their lives." Governor Green shared in his daily briefing that, "what we're saying now is travel should not be to West Maui. But the other parts of Maui are safe."

Is it safe to travel to the other Hawaiian islands of Kauai, Oahu, Molokai, Lanai and Hawaii?

Travel to the islands of Kauai, Oahu, Molokai and Lanai and parts of the Big Island is not affected at this time in terms of safety. However, there may be some near-term capacity issues with so many tourists trying to relocate from Maui and even Maui residents seeking shelter on the other islands.

If you have a trip planned to another Hawaiian island, operations are likely currently unaffected. However, contact your hotel or check its website or social media channels for any updates should the situation change.

Additionally, be aware that while statements from officials say other Hawaiian islands are open and available for tourism, there is a sentiment among some Hawaiian residents that now may not be the time to vacation in the state. The area is grappling with this tragedy and working to support Maui with the resources and infrastructure that it needs.

Airlines allowing changes to Maui flights

A previous update from the Hawaii Tourism Authority stated that 46,000 residents and visitors have already been flown off the island since the fires began. If you have a flight to Maui booked in August or September that you wish to change, you are encouraged to contact your airline and revise your travel plans if needed. The airlines have all updated their travel waiver policies, with some extending dates into September or November.

Alaska Airlines

Alaska Airlines has instituted a flexible travel policy for guests who would like to change or cancel flights to or from Maui. Currently, it is processing changes if your ticket was purchased prior to Aug. 11 and your plans are between now and Sept. 16.

American Airlines

American Airlines passengers can change their origin or destination to Daniel K. Inouye International Airport (HNL), Ellison Onizuka Kona International Airport (KOA) or Lihue Airport (LIH) at no cost for tickets bought by Aug. 9 for travel originally scheduled through Sept. 16.

New flights must be booked for travel by Nov. 18 for the same cabin. Alternatively, passengers can cancel their originally scheduled trips and request a refund. This only applies to flight changes made by Sept. 16 for travel completed within one year of the original ticket date.

Delta Air Lines

Delta Air Lines has issued a change policy specific to flights in or out of OGG, HNL, KOA, LIH.

The fare difference will be waived when rebooked travel occurs on or before Nov. 18 in the same cabin of service as originally booked. A fare difference may apply when the waiver is class-to-class restrictive and the original booking class is not maintained in the rebooked itinerary. There are additional conditions and restrictions listed as well.

Hawaiian Airlines

Hawaiian Airlines travelers can reschedule their flights at no cost for flights in and out of OGG between Aug. 9 and Dec. 15 to new dates. There will be no change fees or fare differences on the same city pair and the same cabin of service.

Tickets can be booked for new travel to or from the following airports: OGG, Ellison Onizuka Kona International Airport (KOA), Hilo International Airport (ITO), Daniel K. Inouye International Airport (HNL) and Lihue Airport (LIH). However, tickets must be rebooked into the same compartment (Main Cabin or Business Cabin) by Sept. 1; travel must occur between Aug. 9 and Nov. 16 or between Nov. 29 and Dec. 15. The airline notes that itineraries with travel outside these periods would not be eligible for a waiver of a fare difference.

Alternatively, these travelers can cancel their flights in exchange for a future flight credit, expiring one year from the original date of purchase. Those with flights booked to or from OGG between Aug. 9 and Sept. 15 can also request a refund . The request must be submitted by Sept. 1.

Southwest Airlines

Southwest Airlines customers with reservations to, from or through OGG between Aug. 9 and Oct. 17 can rebook in the original class of service or travel standby for free; this is as long as the new travel falls within 14 days of the original date of travel between the original city pairs.

Additionally, these customers can change their original departure or arrival flight to any of the below Hawaii airports without charge:

United Airlines

United Airlines is allowing travelers to reschedule trips and will waive change fees and fare differences for trips originally scheduled into Maui through Sept. 16. You can then alter your plans to travel by Nov. 18 at no additional cost to one of these airports:

If your new trip is after August 10, 2024, or is to a different destination, United will still waive any change fees, but you might have to pay a fare difference depending on the flight. Alternatively, if you cancel or don't take your trip, you can request a full refund .

What to do if you have a hotel or an Airbnb booked in Maui

Most of West Maui is still without power and has limited phone service, so you may not be able to contact your hotel directly to cancel your reservation. It is recommended to call the central reservations number for your hotel company. If you are unable to reach the hotel, your next best option is to monitor your specific hotel's social media channels and websites for any updates.

According to the latest statement released by the Hawaii Tourism Authority , hotels in West Maui have temporarily stopped accepting bookings of future reservations. Hotels are being used to house their employees and families, evacuees and first responders working on disaster recovery — more than 1,000 people so far, with more to come.

Additionally, vacation rental owners and operators and anyone with available space are encouraged to make these accommodations available to temporarily house displaced West Maui residents. Since Aug. 14, the state has offered a referral program to make those connections possible to support West Maui residents in need of housing, according to the Hawaii Tourism Authority statement.

Hotels in the Kaanapali area have now updated their websites with further guidance. The Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa added an alert that the hotel is temporarily closed and that cancellation fees will be waived through Sept. 15. The Hyatt Vacation Club at Ka'anapali Beach posted that all reservations through Sept. 3 have been canceled, and the hotel is allowing guests beyond that date to cancel or reschedule by contacting them. Any deposits and prepayments for canceled stays between now and Sept. 30 will be refunded.

If you booked a chain hotel directly, you can work with the corporate 1-800 number to alter your plans. If you booked through a third-party online travel agency or aggregator like Expedia or Travelocity, it's important to understand the cancellation policy. The OTA still owns your reservation prior to your travel , so contacting the hotel directly will likely result in you being referred back to the OTA or travel portal for assistance.

For those travelers who booked accommodations with Airbnb, the company has activated its " Extenuating Circumstances Policy " for parts of Maui. Eligible guests with reservations will receive a full refund, and both hosts and guests can cancel bookings penalty-free, the company said on Wednesday.

Will your credit card or trip insurance cover changes?

Generally, trip cancellation and trip interruption insurance will cover nonrefundable expenses, such as airfare, accommodation and activities, if you need to cancel your trip (or the remainder of your trip) due to a natural disaster like the wildfires. However, credit card insurance policies can vary, so check the benefits guide for the card you used to book your airfare for specific exclusions.

Also, note that you must have booked your trip before the natural disaster starts in order to be covered. This means that if you booked a new trip today, it likely wouldn't be covered due to the wildfires already being labeled a declared emergency.

If you need to file a trip cancellation or interruption claim:

• Check your credit card's benefits guide to see if you are eligible for coverage and what the limits are.
• Call your credit card's benefits administrator, or start a claim online.
• Determine which documents you need to collect.
• Submit the documents within the required timeline.

"Many travel insurance policies can cover travelers who need to cancel or interrupt their trip due to a natural disaster, such as the Hawaii wildfires," Steven Benna, marketing manager for Squaremouth Travel Insurance, told TPG. "This can include cancellation coverage for travelers who are unable to travel because their destination is uninhabitable or under a mandatory evacuation due to the fires, as well as interruption coverage for travelers whose trips are cut short."

"However, travel insurance is designed to cover unforeseen events," he added. "In order for coverage to be available, the traveler must have bought their policy before the fires began."

Depending on the needs of your trip, sites like InsureMyTrip and Squaremouth allow you to shop for plans that may fit your travel needs and compare coverage and pricing for multiple policy options at once.

Various membership associations, such as USAA, AAA and Costco, also offer travel insurance policies for purchase. Typically, these organizations partner with a specific provider, so you may want to compare the policies offered through the organization with other policies to get the best coverage for any future trips.

There's also a type of coverage referred to as "cancel for any reason" coverage . You might only get 75% of the trip cost back, so depending on the trip, it might not be worth the hefty premium.

Related: 4 times your credit card's travel insurance can help with travel woes, and 7 times it won't

What to do if you have a cruise to Hawaii

For cruise passengers, it's important to understand the cancellation or rebooking policy for the specific cruise line you will be traveling on.

Cruise lines might reroute to avoid Maui and affected areas. Per the terms of the cruise contract to which you consent before sailing, cruise lines do not owe you compensation if they alter your itinerary. If changes are made, you will be refunded for any shore excursions you booked through the cruise line that were to take place in the ports you're skipping. (Check with your tour provider directly if you've booked a third-party excursion.)

TPG's guide on what happens if a cruise gets canceled is the next place to refer to for guidance if you receive notice that your cruise is canceled.

A spokesperson for Norwegian Cruise Line shared this statement with TPG regarding Pride of America, its Hawaii-based cruise ship that sails weekly on a seven-night all-Hawaii cruise from Honolulu:

We are deeply saddened to hear about the wildfires currently impacting the town of Lahaina in Maui. We have a very special relationship with the people and islands of Hawaii as we sail to the beautiful state year-round. It is a magical destination and one that is highly sought out by our guests for its natural beauty, culture and unparalleled experiences. We are closely monitoring the situation in Maui, impacting the west side of the island, opposite the Kahului Harbor, where we call. At this time, there is no impact on our scheduled itineraries. As always, our top priority is the safety and security of our guests and crew. We will communicate further updates as appropriate.

Princess Cruises offered the following statement:

Given the severity of these fires and their significant strain on local resources, Emerald Princess will cancel her scheduled call to Maui (Lahaina) on Monday, August 14, and will instead call to Kona.

As we continue to monitor the situation, we are actively reviewing the itineraries of our upcoming voyages. If any adjustments need to be made to our published itineraries, we will advise guests and our Travel Advisor partners.

Related: What happens if my cruise line changes my itinerary or ship?

How to help support Maui's recovery efforts

In collaboration with the Hawaii Community Foundation, state leaders and nonprofits, the Maui Strong Fund is accepting donations to assist with recovery and relief efforts.

"The Maui Strong Fund was created to provide community resilience with resources for disaster preparedness, response, and recovery," according to the Hawaii Community Foundation. "The fund is currently being used to support communities affected by the wildfires on Maui," with 100% of funds being distributed for community needs.

TPG and Lonely Planet have teamed up to donate $25,000 to the Maui Strong Fund, and if you also want to help, you can learn more about the organization and donate here .

Aloha United Way has established a Maui Fire Relief Fund on its website , and 100% of the proceeds are directed to Maui United Way. The organization's partner agencies — such as the Maui Food Bank, the American Red Cross and The Salvation Army — are distributing relief funds according to the community's most urgent needs.

Donating miles or cash via airlines

Hawaiian Airlines has updated its website with a message allowing loyalty members to donate HawaiianMiles, which will be used to transport volunteers and staff to Maui. Up to 30 million miles in donations will be matched by the airline for the month of August. You must log in to your account to donate.

American Airlines is also supporting the American Red Cross' disaster relief efforts, and American Airlines AAdvantage members can earn 10 AAdvantage bonus miles for every dollar donated to the Red Cross via its microsite . (Note there's a minimum donation amount of $25.)

Alaska Airlines has contributed 5 million miles to Kanu Hawaii and Maui Rapid Response, which are leading the efforts to relocate displaced Maui residents while they work to rebuild. Alaska Airlines will match the first 1 million miles donated by Mileage Plan members through Aug. 31. Donate miles to Kanu Hawaii .

Bottom line

This is a devastating, life-altering event for the people of Maui. The most important things to consider right now are the safety of everyone on Maui and efforts to help those affected by the disaster, both by considering tangible donations and allowing space and time for relief and recovery efforts.

Now that local government officials have released updated travel guidance, only West Maui communities are off-limits. Other areas of Maui are open and accepting guests.

Based on the updated information shared by the Hawaiian governor and the statement released by the Hawaii Tourism Authority, the economy would suffer without tourism in the Hawaiian Islands. They are encouraging travelers to consider visiting other areas of Maui, including Kahului, Wailuku, Kihei, Wailea, Makena, Paia and Hana.

Related reading:

• Hawaii declares emergency due to wildfires, discourages all nonessential travel to Maui
• Your flight is delayed or canceled: Here's what to do next
• 6 real-life strategies you can use when your flight is canceled or delayed
• 8 of the best credit cards for general travel purchases
• The best credit cards that offer trip cancellation and interruption insurance

Additional reporting by Caroline Tanner, Matt Moffitt, Erica Silverstein and Meghna Maharishi.

How to adjust your travel plans for Hawaii during the wildfires

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The Hawaiian island of Maui is asking visitors to stay away as it tries to recover from devastating wildfires.

Officials said Thursday morning that two of the three fires on Maui were largely contained. But the damage to portions of the island is extensive, particularly in the tourism-heavy region of West Maui, where fire appears to have incinerated much of the historic town of Lahaina .

The Kahului Airport on Maui remains open, at least in part because of all the people being evacuated (officials have asked all visitors on “non-essential” trips to leave). With the wildfires causing more than 50 deaths and an estimated $8 billion to $10 billion in damage and economic losses, the Hawaiian government is strongly discouraging tourists from coming to the island.

If you had a vacation planned, this is what you need to know.

World & Nation

Mapping how the Maui fires destroyed Lahaina

The Lahaina fire in West Maui ignited as firefighters focused on the Upcountry fire. What happened next — the deadliest U.S. wildfire in more than a century — left the historic town in ashes.

Aug. 14, 2023

Should I cancel my trip to Hawaii?

The state tourism authority emphasized that most parts of Hawaii continue to welcome visitors. “Travel to Kauaʻi, Oʻahu, Molokaʻi, Lānaʻi” and parts of Hawaiʻi Island other than the Mauna Kea resort area “are not affected at this time,” the authority said on its website Wednesday. By Thursday, the Mauna Kea Resort on the big island was open again after three fires in the area were brought under control, the authority said.

Maui, and particularly West Maui, is a different story. The tourism authority said Wednesday night that visitors bound for West Maui in the coming weeks “are encouraged to consider rescheduling their travel plans for a later time.”

“In the days and weeks ahead, our collective resources and attention must be focused on the recovery of residents and communities that were forced to evacuate their homes and businesses,” the authority said.

Death toll in Maui fires rises to 67: ‘We have not yet searched’ buildings

Hawaii Gov. Josh Green says the fires are probably the state’s deadliest natural disaster in decades.

Aug. 11, 2023

What can I do about my flight to Hawaii?

Some major airlines offer customers the ability to obtain refunds for travel to Maui in the coming weeks, as well as the option to reschedule their flights. The exact terms depend on the airline.

At United Airlines , if you had paid for a flight to Kahului Airport between Aug. 11 and Aug. 31, you can cancel and get a refund, according to the United website. You can also reschedule your trip and the change fees and fare differences will be waived under certain circumstances.

If your new trip is after Aug. 31 or is to a destination outside Hawaii, United will still waive any change fees, but you may have to pay a fare difference, depending on the flight.

At Delta Air Lines , customers who can’t reschedule their trips to Maui may cancel their reservations and apply the ticket cost to the purchase of new flight — but that flight has to be booked no more than a year after the Maui ticket was purchased, the airline’s website says.

If you schedule a new flight on or before Aug. 18 at the same level of service as the Maui flight, Delta’s website says it will waive the change fee and any difference in fare. After that, only the change fee will be waived.

The American Airlines site suggests that refunds are possible for flights to or through Maui if you cancel by Aug. 13. You can apply for one on the airline’s website .

If you want to reschedule your flight, American will waive the change fee if you rebook by Aug. 13, but you may have to pay any difference in the fare. To see if your flight is eligible for a refund or fee waiver, use the “ Find your trip ” tool on the airline’s website. If you can’t change your trip online, call Reservations for help.

At Alaska Airlines , if you’d purchased a ticket to or from Maui by Aug. 9, you can obtain a refund as long as you cancel before the original flight’s departure date, the airline’s website says. You can also reschedule onto a new flight to or from Maui or three other Hawaiian airports through Aug. 31 at the same fare if you stay in the same cabin. But you have to exchange their tickets prior to the departure of their original flight.

Hawaiian Airlines is allowing customers to cancel their flights in exchange for a refund or a credit for future flights, or to change their flights to a different island, its website says. To change or cancel your flight, call the airline’s reservations line at 800-367-5320.

A spokesperson for the airline said, “We ask guests with non-urgent inquiries to please call back later so that we can assist travelers with immediate needs. Guests traveling through Kahului should continue to check their flight status on our website or app before coming to the airport.”

How to help Maui residents displaced by the devastating wildfires

Wildfires on the Hawaiian island of Maui have killed at least 36 people, displaced thousands of residents and destroyed hundreds of structures, including homes, businesses and a school, prompting President Biden to declare a “major disaster.”

Aug. 10, 2023

Will my hotel charge me a fee to cancel my stay in Maui?

Under normal circumstances, many hotels penalize last-minute cancellations by charging fees that can be considerable. Some in West Maui are waiving those fees at the moment, but figuring out the policy at the hotel you’ve booked can be a challenge — the closer it is to the fire, the more likely that its power and phone lines are down.

The Hyatt family of hotels is waiving cancellation fees for arrivals “in the coming days,” the company said in a statement. It suggested that guests with reservations call its customer support line at 800-233-1234 “for additional details and assistance in alternate accommodations.” It also noted, however, that canceled reservations made through online booking sites and other third parties may be governed by those sites’ policies.

An Expedia spokesperson told The Times in an email that it is working with hotels that book through Expedia and Hotels.com to institute a “flex policy” for reservations on the full island of Maui through Aug. 31. “This means that travelers with upcoming bookings in the impacted area can change or cancel their hotel booking without penalty,” she said. “The flex policy can be accessed when you engage with a virtual agent once you log into your account or provide your itinerary number to the virtual agent.”

Expedia and Hotels.com ’s customer service agents are available 24 hours a day by phone or online to help with travel arrangements.

According to a spokesperson for Marriott hotels, the Westin Maui Resort & Spa in Ka’anapali, the Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa and the Ritz-Carlton Maui in Kapalua have been evacuated and will close temporarily due to extended power outages. Cancellation fees at the three hotels have been waived through Aug. 31. She advised travelers to the area to follow the news and MauiCounty.gov for local situation updates. To adjust reservations, guests should visit Marriott.com or the Marriott app.

If you’re headed for other parts of Maui or the Mauna Kea resort area on the island of Hawaii, the state tourism authority says, you should talk to the hotel you booked for updates about how you might be affected.

Hotels in Maui may still be taking reservations, and some are providing refunds up to the date of travel. For example, you could book a room for next week at the Outrigger Kaanapali Beach Resort on Thursday afternoon, even though the power and phone lines at the resort were out, according to a reservation agent.

‘Gone forever’: Fire devastates historic Lahaina, former capital of the Hawaiian kingdom

The wildfire that ripped through Maui devastated Lahaina, a town boasting centuries of history and that was once the capital of the Hawaiian kingdom.

Can I cancel my Vrbo or Airbnb?

Expedia Group, which owns Vrbo, said in a statement that it is “applying an extenuating circumstances exception for eligible Vrbo reservations in Maui where travelers will be able to get a full refund.” It added, “We will continue to work with our Vrbo hosts who have upcoming bookings in impacted areas to make sure all of our travelers are treated fairly.”

Airbnb customer service says that they will provide penalty-free cancellations in parts of Maui for hosts and guests who request them. However, people need to call the site’s customer service line at (844) 234-2500 to make sure that they are eligible.

Travelers whose accommodations aren’t directly affected by the fires may have a harder time obtaining a refund.

One reader told The Times that he and his wife wanted to heed the government’s request and cancel their trip to Maui, but their Airbnb host declined to give them even a partial refund on their $2,000 stay. According to Airbnb’s site, cancellations and refunds are up to the hosts , not Airbnb.

Will travel insurance cover me?

According to the insurance comparison site Insuremytrip.com , “If a wildfire that affects your trip is known before you purchase a plan, your coverage may be extremely limited.” So if you are thinking of purchasing travel insurance now for a trip in the coming weeks, don’t bother.

What you can do is see if wildfires fall under the definition of “natural disaster” on your travel insurance policy. You may also be eligible for coverage under “trip delay” if your flight is canceled, “trip interruption” if your accommodations or primary residence are damaged, or “trip cancellation” if your destination has been evacuated, Insuremytrip says.

About The Times Utility Journalism Team

This article is from The Times’ Utility Journalism Team. Our mission is to be essential to the lives of Southern Californians by publishing information that solves problems, answers questions and helps with decision making . We serve audiences in and around Los Angeles — including current Times subscribers and diverse communities that haven’t historically had their needs met by our coverage. How can we be useful to you and your community? Email utility (at) latimes.com or one of our journalists: Jon Healey , Ada Tseng , Jessica Roy and Karen Garcia .

More to Read

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April 21, 2024

Communications breakdown left authorities in the dark and residents without alerts amid Maui fire, report says

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March 3, 2024

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Emma Fox was a 2023 summer intern on the Utility Journalism team at the Los Angeles Times. A student at Loyola Marymount University, she majors in journalism with a Chicano/Latino studies minor and was the arts and culture editor at the on-campus publication, the Lion. Fox is the president of her school’s chapters of the National Assn. of Hispanic Journalists and the Society of Professional Journalists and previously was an intern for the San Diego Voice and Viewpoint.

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HTA: Visitors urged to forego travel plans to West Maui

Visitors Urged to Forego Travel Plans to West Maui

The Hawaiʻi Tourism Authority reports that vacation travel to West Maui is strongly discouraged for the near future. Visitors in West Maui have largely heeded the call to leave the island. About 46,000 people have flown out of Kahului Airport since Wednesday.

In the weeks ahead, the collective resources and attention of the federal, state and county government, the West Maui community, and the travel industry must be focused on the recovery of residents who were forced to evacuate their homes and businesses.

Visitors with plans to stay in West Maui in the coming weeks and months are urged to consider rescheduling their travel plans for a later time when the overall situation has improved for area residents. 

Hotels in West Maui have temporarily stopped accepting bookings of future reservations. At this time, many hotels are housing their employees and families until the fires in West Maui are fully contained and travel on the roadways is safe. These same hotels are preparing to house evacuees and first responders working on disaster recovery.

While efforts are underway to restore basic services, like power and communications, visitors are encouraged to refrain from attempting to reach West Maui accommodations for reservation adjustments until the situation improves.

Travel to the other Hawaiian Islands, like Kauaʻi, Oʻahu, Lānaʻi, and Hawaiʻi Island, are not affected at this time.

Access Restrictions In Lahaina 

The devastation in Lahaina is immense and unprecedented. The extent of the damage affecting residents, families and area businesses has yet to be fully understood. Experts have warned that hazardous materials are likely present. The area most affected by the wildfires is off limits to the public.

Visitors leaving West Maui, or needing to pass by Lahaina to pick up their belongings, are reminded to comply with the protocols established by law enforcement and Maui County officials. There is no access into the restricted zones of historic Lahaina town until the hazardous conditions improve. 

For updates, visit the County of Maui website:  w ww.mauicounty.gov/ .

Assistance Center to Relocate to Keʻehi Lagoon

The Assistance Center at the Hawaiʻi Convention Center will close at noon Sunday, August 13, and be relocated to the Keʻehi Lagoon Memorial at 2685 N. Nimitz Highway in Honolulu. 

Operated in partnership with the American Red Cross to support those evacuated from Maui due to the wildfires, the Assistance Center has served nearly 300 evacuees since the facility opened on August 9. Evacuees have been provided with temporary accommodations until they are able to board flights to return home or secure their own hotel lodging. Water and food have been provided to the evacuees, as well as showers, toiletries and clothes, if needed, all free of charge. 

The American Red Cross will continue to offer these same services to Maui evacuees at Ke‘ehi Lagoon Memorial. Shuttles offering free transportation from the Daniel K. Inouye International Airport to Keʻehi Lagoon Memorial will be running throughout the day and can be found outside of baggage claim 9 and baggage claim 20 at the airport.

How to Help

Anyone wanting to make donations to help communities and families recover on Maui can do so through the Maui Strong Fund established by the Hawaiʻi Community Foundation. The link can be accessed  h ere .

Due to capacity limitations, please consider making financial rather than physical donations.

Hotels, vacation rental owners, and anyone with available space to temporarily house displaced Maui residents are encouraged to make those accommodations available. The state is setting up programs to make those connections. See the latest at MauiStrong.hawaii.gov .

The Hawaiʻi Tourism Authority will continue to provide updates and answers to frequently asked questions on our  website .

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What's the future of Maui travel in the aftermath of the wildfire?

The cleanup is now beginning on Maui after the worst wildfire in recent U.S. history.

But hundreds of people remain unaccounted for, and even when the searches end it will take years to rebuild Lahaina.

So for the thousands of people who had been planning a trip there in the future, the question is: "now what?"

At this point, many people with reservations are changing their plans.

Travel agent Jerry Katz, of First Discount Travel in Blue Ash, is scrambling to rebook clients who had been planning a Maui trip this fall

He is advising customers to switch to a different Hawaiian island for now.

The good news is that much of Maui, including the popular Kaanapali Beach and Wailea, was not affected directly by the fire.

The bad news is, even if you were planning a trip to one of those spots in the next few months, you'll still impacted by everything that happened around it.

"I think you are going to miss a lot of the magic of Maui right now," Katz said, "as people are definitely going to have their minds and hearts in other areas."

Should you plan a trip... or avoid the island?

There is a lot of debate now whether planning a trip to Maui is supportive... or insensitive .

After all, waiters and hotel workers need tourists to earn a living.

However, many Kaanapali Beach hotels — though undamaged — are being used as temporary housing for workers.

In addition, Hawaii's governor has issued an "essential travel only order" through the end of August for western parts of Maui.

With airlines and many hotels waiving change fees for Maui, Katz suggests switching upcoming trips to Oahu/Honolulu, the Big Island, or Kauai.

"Kauai is an amazing island, it's my personal favorite," he said.

As you change your plans, Katz also suggests sending a few dollars to the Red Cross of Maui, the Maui United Way or Maui Strong fund, to help the people of that great island rebuild.

By next year, Katz says, he'd be comfortable visiting Maui again, especially to show support for local businesses, workers and families.

And that way you don't waste your money.

____________________________

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The Ultimate Maui Travel Guide (2024 update)

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Snorkeling, volcano sunrises, and scenic drives await you on Maui! Welcome to the Valley Isle.

With sparkling beaches, clear water, a volcano, and waterfalls, there is no shortage of things to do, see, and experience here.

While Maui is the most expensive island to visit ( price compare islands here ), it offers a wide range of accommodations, restaurants, and sights, so there are plenty of ways to design your Maui vacation.

Whether you’re looking for a luxurious honeymoon at the only adults-only resort in Hawaii or you’d prefer to book a cabin on the beach, we’ve got your planning covered with this Maui travel guide. 

Maui Travel Update following Lahaina Fire

Due to the devastating fire, travel to Lahaina is closed. We will be providing updates to travel as well as outlets for community support on our Maui Travel Update page .

You’ll find everything you need to know about planning your trip to Maui here.

Want to cut to the chase? We’ve got you covered with these quick links: – When: Pick the best time to visit Maui – Where: Pick what part of the island , and your lodging – What: Check out 33 Things to Do on Maui , or filter and sort with our Activities & Tours database – How: Decide how you’ll get around, with a rental car or check out how to skip it!

Want to hop around? Use our handy table of contents below to find exactly what you’re looking for.

Maui Wayfinder Itinerary

Get the maui itinerary.

The step-by-step itinerary takes you to all the best beaches, snorkeling spots, restaurants, and sights. You’ll get six carefully planned excursion days to help you see the can’t miss stops no matter how limited your time is.

Get all the details on our itinerary and download it for a memorable and easily planned trip to Maui.

Maui Travel Guide: Facts

Impress your seatmate on the plane or win trivia night with these facts about Maui:

• More than any Hawaiian island, Maui has 120-miles of accessible beaches with 81 white, black, and gold-sand beaches.
• There are no private beaches in Hawaii. By law, no one has the right to own a beach or keep people off the beach so come enjoy the beaches!
• Maui is the second-largest Hawaiian island with the third-largest population, 144,000 people
• Maui is home to the largest humpback whale migration in the world from mid-December to mid-April. Come to Maui to see acrobatic feats and guaranteed whale sightings – The Ultimate Whale Watching Guide .

• Haleakala is the largest dormant volcano in the world with a summit of 10,023 feet. The summit depression can hold the island of Manhattan, at 21-miles across and 4,000-feet deep. Check out our Guide to Maui’s Volcanoes
• The Hana Highway was rated a Drive of a Lifetime by National Geographic, drive the Road to Hana to experience 620 curves and 59 bridges ( How to Do the Road to Hana in One Day ).
• Maui is the largest of Maui County’s four islands, which include Moloka’i, Lana’i, and the unpopulated Kaho’olawe. Maui is perfect for day-trip adventures to Lana’i or snorkeling at Molokini Crater ( here is our favorite Molokini snorkel tour )

Maui Geography

Let’s get a lay of the island so you can plan your trip easier!

Maui is the second-largest island in Hawaii and is uniquely shaped. It was formed by two volcanoes, Haleakala and the West Maui Mountains. 

Like all of the Hawaiian islands, there are two sides: a leeward side and a windward side. The leeward side of the island is drier and the windward side is wetter. 

There are five distinct areas on the island: West Maui, South Maui, Central Maui, Upcountry Maui, and East Maui (Hana). 

On West Maui, you’ll find long stretches of beaches, warm weather, numerous snorkeling spots, plenty of resorts and vacation rentals, and jaw-dropping sunsets. West Maui suffered the devastating Lahaina fire in 2023 , which will take years to recover from. The historic town of Lahaina has been destroyed and is not open to visitors .

Other areas of West Maui are open to visitors, including the Ka’anapali resort area, snorkeling spots like Kapalua Bay, and the picturesque Napili Bay. Please visit the west side with care and aloha as they rebuild . Check out our favorite things to do in Kapalua and Napili if you want to enjoy the areas of West Maui that are welcoming visitors.

Another popular spot with visitors, South Maui dials up the luxury. Here you’ll find the most luxurious hotels on the island, stunning beaches, and views of Molokini Crater and Kahoolawe.

Popular spots here include the resort community of Wailea, the small town of Kihei, the expansive Makena Beach, and plenty of tour boats leaving for snorkeling at Molokini Crater. 

Check out our favorite beaches and things to do in South Maui .

Central Maui

You’ll fly into central Maui when you land at Kahului Airport (OGG), the main commercial airport on the island. But that’s not all you’ll find here. Once you leave the main airport area, you’ll find plenty of small restaurants and shops, dramatic mountain views, and great hiking.

Visit the sacred Iao Valley or hike the Waihee Ridge Trail. Or head up to the north coast to stroll through the town of Paia and eat at the most famous restaurant in Hawaii: Mama’s Fish House ( Is Mama’s Fish House Best for Lunch or Dinner? ). 

Kahului is a main cruise port in Hawaii , so if you’re visiting on a cruise ship, be sure to check out all our Hawaii cruise resources , including our favorite Maui shore excursions .

Upcountry Maui

Bring your sweater and head up the slope of Haleakala to Upcountry Maui. You’ll climb in elevation as you get beautiful views of the ocean below you.

You can visit the small cowboy town of Makawao, visit one of the many farms on the island to sample fresh tropical produce, or continue heading up the mountain to the top and visit Haleakala National Park.

In Upcountry, the drive is often just as beautiful as the destination. Most of our favorite Maui farm tours are in Upcountry. And don’t forget to check out our favorite things to do in upcountry Maui .

Visit East Maui by taking the famous Road to Hana (decide here if the Road to Hana is worth it for you!). This drive takes you around 620 curves, over 59 bridges, and delivers views of a stunning coastline, lush landscape, and stunning waterfalls.

This windward part of the island is remote and rugged and an adventure. See our Maui Itinerary on how to plan your stops to Hana or check out our favorite Road to Hana Guided Tour .

We also put together a comprehensive guide on the Road to Hana , and we’ll help you choose the right route for your group.

Our 33 Things to Do on Maui is organized by location to make your planning easier!

What’s the Best Time of Year to Visit Maui?

While you may be visiting from a place that has four seasons each year, in Hawaii there are just two: summer (kau) and winter (hooilo):

Luckily, the weather on Maui is warm and pleasant year-round, so there’s truly no bad time to visit. But our favorite months to visit are April/May and September/October, because there are fewer visitors, the weather is great, and it’s a little less expensive to travel in this off-peak season period.

Related Articles:

• This is the Best Hawaiian Island to Visit in the Winter (Psst, it’s Maui but read for a lot of juicy details)
• Visiting Maui in the Winter: Is it a Good Idea?

While the winter months get slightly cooler temperatures and there is a little more rain, staying on South or West Maui will increase your chances of sunny days and tank top temperatures. That’s why Maui is such a great place to visit year-round. 

And if you’re curious about ocean temperatures and conditions, we have good news. The ocean temperature is always between 75 to 80 degrees, year-round. That means you can swim comfortably in January and in June.

But aside from temperature, consider waves.

During the summer months, you can usually find calm water around the island. The exception is if there is a storm (or remnants of a storm) passing by or if the island is getting a south swell.

South Maui is known to get swells during the summer months, which can bring in larger waves and choppy conditions. West Maui will generally have calmer ocean conditions in the summer. 

In the winter, north swells can bring choppy water and large waves to the north, west, and east side of the island, while the south usually stays a bit calmer. 

Get the full scoop on the best time to visit Maui . 

Getting to Maui

There are two airports on Maui, though one is used very infrequently. The main airport is Kahului Airport (OGG) . This airport is located in central Maui, approximately 30 minutes from Wailea and 45 minutes from Ka’anapali. Kahului airport serves inter-island, domestic, and international flights.

The second airport, Kapalua Airport, is located in West Maui, just a short distance from Ka’anapali. You’ll primarily find flights to Kapalua Airport from Honolulu on Mokulele Airlines. Island Hopping in Hawaii: How To Do It Right .

Renting a Car and Getting Around the Maui

Should you rent a car in Maui? Most likely, yes. While Maui does have a bus system and has uber and taxis, renting a car makes traveling around on your vacation easier. 

We’ve done the math for you to help you decide if renting a car in Maui is right for you . 

Our favorite tip for anyone visiting Hawaii is to book with Discount Hawaii Car Rental . When we travel inter-island or we have friends in town, we use them 95% of the time. They offer the most competitive rates, they work with national agencies, you don’t have to pre-book, and you can cancel at any time. There are also great local companies to rent from, like Kihei Rent a Car. See our Should You Rent a Car on Maui video for more information.

If you can’t get a car (remember that great rental car shortage of summer 2021?) or you just don’t want to get one, here are 11 tips for getting around Maui without a car . 

For the most part, the roads on Maui are well paved and easy to navigate with any type of car — no 4-wheel drive required! Though if you want to rent a jeep…it really is fun. 

If you don’t want to rent a car but still want to get out and see the sights, a guided tour is a great option. Two of our favorite tours that will pick you up from your hotel and take you around are the Haleakala Guided Sunrise Tour and the Road to Hana Guided Tour .

Where to Stay on Maui

Ready to book your stay on Maui? Maui has plenty of five-star resorts, outstanding vacation rentals, and a range of options in between. But what is right for you?

For details on our favorite hotels and vacation rentals on Maui, see our Where to Section Maui !

Should you stay in a hotel or vacation rental in Maui?

Go for a hotel if you’re looking for the traditional resort experience with big pools, nearby beaches, and restaurants within walking distance. Opt for a vacation rental if you want access to a kitchen, are looking for space, or are looking to save money. 

We routinely stay in both. We’ll book a vacation rental for the majority of our stay so we have access to a kitchen and a little more space for the kids. Then we’ll treat ourselves to a great resort for a few days to enjoy the pool and other amenities. This has been a winning combo for us recently. 

If you’re still not sure what you want to do, we break down the difference between choosing a hotel and a vacation rental in Hawaii .  

Should you stay in Ka’anapali, Wailea, Kihei, or…?

While there are five main areas on Maui, most visitors stay on either West Maui or South Maui to maximize their odds of sunshine, warm weather, and lack of rain. 

Whether you should stay in West Maui (Ka’anapali, Lahaina, Napili, Kapalua) or South Maui (Kihei, Wailea, Makena) is often a heated debate. We try to help you make the right decision for you with these two articles:

• Where to Stay on Maui: your accommodation guide
• Ka’anapali vs. Wailea: pick your perfect spot

Plus, get a list of some of our favorite places to stay when on Maui: 

• Our Favorite Maui Honeymoon Hotels
• The Best Family-Friendly Hotels on Maui (kid-tested and approved)
• Maui Vacation Rentals for Large Groups
• Maui Vacation Rentals with Private Pools
• Guide to Glamping Camping on Maui
• The 7 Best Vacation Rentals in Wailea and Makena

How Many Days Should You Stay on Maui

According to the Hawaii Tourism Authority, in January 2022, the average length of stay for a visitor to Maui was nearly 10 days! While you might not be able to get away for that long, we recommend starting with at least a week on the island. There is so much to see and that gives you time to balance relaxation with adventure.

Read more about why we recommend spending at least a week on Maui . And don’t miss our Hawaii packing list as you’re getting ready to go.

Beaches and Snorkeling Spots on Maui

If you’re coming to Maui to snorkel, you’re in luck! In our opinion, Maui is the best island for snorkeling. Add in the stunning beaches, and you are in for a treat. Our favorite beaches include:

• Kapalua Bay : There’s a reason this beach was named the best beach by Dr. Beach in 2018. A beautiful crescent-shaped beach that is partially protected from larger waves for most of the year, this is the perfect spot to spend the day. It’s also a fantastic snorkeling spot. Get the full details on Kapalua Bay . 
• Kahekili (Airport) Beach Park : This Ka’anapali Beach is a gem. It’s usually less crowded than the beaches in Ka’anapali, it has a large, free parking lot. And there’s a nice reef for snorkeling. Plan your visit with our Airport Beach on Maui: The Full Guide .
• Wailea Beach : There’s a reason some of the biggest resorts on Maui are located on this beach. It’s large, beautiful, and has water that is generally easily swimmable. It’s a beautiful place to spend the entire day.

Maui is full of great beaches. Don’t miss our 17 favorite beaches on Maui , with directions and other details like amenities, parking, and lifeguard services. We also break down our favorite beaches in South Maui ! 

And if you’re coming to snorkel, we have you covered:

• Get a full list of our 11 favorite snorkeling spots on Maui
• Read all about where you can find sea turtles on Maui (and view them respectfully)
• If you’re looking for a tour, these are our 7 favorite tried-and-tested snorkeling tours on Maui

Remember that while the beaches in Hawaii are beautiful, they are not without risk. Currents, dangerous shore break, and changing ocean conditions make swimming in any ocean dangerous. Practice beach safety by swimming on beaches with lifeguards, obeying lifeguard flags, and when in doubt, don’t go out. This website has more excellent information to help keep you safe. 

Things To Do on Maui

There is no shortage of fun to be had on Maui. From whale watching to snorkeling to hiking, there is enough here to keep you busy and exploring for years. 

But here are some highlights that you don’t want to miss and then see our full list of 33 Things to Do on Maui .

• Whale Watching: If you’re coming to Maui between December and April, you’ll be able to see the thousands of humpback whales that migrate to Hawaii from Alaska to mate and birth their young. Whale watching is such a special experience, and we have a full whale watching guide for you . Then explore our 7 favorite Maui whale-watching tours .
• Haleakala Volcano : Visit Maui’s dormant volcano, Haleakala (means: house of the sun). You can enjoy the day in Haleakala National Park with a trip to the Visitor’s Center, enjoying one of the numerous hikes offered in the park, or by enjoying sunrise or sunset. This article helps you decide what time of day to visit: sunrise or sunset.  
• Farm Tours: Explore a different side of Maui with one of the many farm tours. You can visit a coconut farm, a bee farm, a pineapple farm, and more. Or, enjoy a farm tour and lunch combo for a truly memorable day out on the slopes of Haleakala. Get a list of our 15 favorite farm tours on the island . 
• Snorkeling Lana’i : There are actually four islands that makeup Maui County. The island of Lana’i is located just a short boat or ferry ride away and provides a completely different experience. It’s one of our favorite places to snorkel by taking a day trip on the ferry . Explore all our favorite things to do on Lanai , including a snorkeling tour.
• Road to Hana : You can explore the east side of the island on this famous drive past waterfalls, over bridges, and along the jagged coastline ( The 5 Best Road to Hana Routes ). It’s a completely different experience than what you’ll find when staying on west or south Maui. Check out our Road to Hana in one-day article or a guided tour . 

Want help seeing how to fit all of the best sights into your vacation? Our Maui itinerary was created just for that.

Don’t just take our word for it! See what others have to say:

Best Tours and Activities on Maui

While we embrace DIY travel, there’s something to be said for a great tour when you’re in Hawaii. Not only are you supporting a local business, but you’re getting time with a guide who truly knows the island. Whether they’re teaching you the history of the islands during a canoe tour or they’re educating you on the marine life during a snorkeling trip, a good tour experience can stick with you for years. 

We’ve done the hard work for you by finding the best of the best tours on the island. Here’s a sampling of our favorites to get started, but don’t forget to check out our full list of Maui Activities and Tours . 

Maui Family Vacations

We love the adventures you can have while traveling with your family.

With two little kids that we take everywhere, we also know that sometimes you need a few extra kid-friendly recommendations to make your trip fantastic. So from our family to yours, we have you covered:

• The 10 Best Maui Resorts That Will Thrill Your Kids
• 67 Things to Do on Maui with Kids (sorted by age)
• The 8 Best Kid Beaches that will Make Your Maui vacation
• 3 Easy Hikes on Maui (that even little legs can do)

If you want an itinerary fit for kids, our Maui Itinerary includes seven excursion days young kids will love. Plus, we include great family-friendly beaches as well as kid-friendly restaurants. We know the importance of a good Keiki (kids) menu.  Get it here!

Popular Maui Videos

Get to know Maui and see some of our best recommendations with our popular Maui videos.

Or, explore our full library of videos on Hawaii .

Full Library of Maui Articles

Want to binge-read everything we’ve written on visiting Maui? Pour yourself a Mai Tai and browse all Maui articles here .

The Maui Itinerary

If you’re planning a trip to Maui, we’ve got you covered. Our island itineraries help you navigate the planning process and make your trip smooth once you’re on the island.

Thousands of customers have loved them, whether they were planning for a trip that was a year away or a trip that was a day away.

We hope you have an amazing trip!

~Jordan & Erica

Love this guide? Don’t forget to Pin it!

I'm the co-founder, with my husband Jordan, of The Hawaii Vacation Guide. We have lived on Maui and Oahu and continue to travel, experience, and learn about the Hawaiian Islands. We travel with our kids, Henry and Edith. I am a planner! I love to plan trips from the mainland and island-hopping adventures, excursion days, and everything in-between. I spend a lot of my time in Hawai'i on a SUP and my favorite time of year in Hawai'i is whale season!

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Current Travel Advisories, Restrictions, & Updates

What are the travel restrictions & requirements in hawaii, last updated:  march 2, 2024.

We've covered all of the latest Hawaii travel news and announcements below, including the steps travelers should follow to safely visit Hawaii in the future.

Maui Travel Updates

Lahaina remains closed.

Lahaina will remain fully closed to the public until further notice out of respect to the town's residents. County, state, and federal emergency responders continue with efforts to identify victims and the missing, and conduct clean-up efforts of debris and hazardous materials resulting from the wildfires.

— article continued below —

Garden of Eden - East Maui

Before you visit…

The Hawai‘i Tourism Authority advises travelers to check with individual accommodations, activities and businesses in West Maui for their availability and hours of operation. As travelers return to Maui after the devastating August wildfires, they will help to sustain jobs, keep businesses open, and support the community.

We urge all visitors to be especially mindful and respectful in the islands as the community continues through this tragedy.

Maui Wildfires

In August 2023, wildfires damaged a significant portion of West Maui, many lives were lost, and 2,200+ structures were destroyed -  making it the deadliest U.S. wildfire in over a century and Hawaii's worst natural disaster in modern history . 

More information can be found on our   August 2023 Maui wildfire  page.

Remainder of West Maui Reopened November 1, 2023

In late September 2023, Maui's Mayor, Richard Bissen,  released brand-new details  about how the island will go about reopening the resort areas surrounding Lahaina, which will remain closed indefinitely.

The plan initially involved three phases, but the Mayor  reopened the rest of West Maui on November 1, 2023 .

Latest Pandemic Developments in Hawaii

Last updated:  december 16, 2022.

At this time, there are no pandemic travel-related restrictions for domestic travelers, and neither the Governor's office nor island mayors have indicated they plan to reintroduce any restrictions.

Travelers can check the state of Hawaii's confirmed cases here .

'Safe Travels' program & mask mandate both officially ended March 26, 2022

According to Governor Ige, the state of Hawaii dropped the 'Safe Travels' program for domestic U.S. travelers at midnight on  March 25, 2022 . Governor Ige has also announced the indoor mask mandate has ended as of March 26, 2022 . Masks may still be required on public transportation, such as buses, and within Hawaii’s airports.

That now means domestic travelers to Hawaii will no longer need to fill out online forms via Safe Travels, no longer have to worry about QR codes, no longer have to provide proof of vaccination, and ultimately, there won't be any additional requirements or restrictions to fly to Hawaii on a domestic flight.

On the county level, the County of Kauai, the County of Maui, and the County of Hawaii have repealed their COVID-19 Emergency Rules. The City and County of Honolulu's Safe Access Oahu program ended on Sunday, March 6, 2022.

" Safe Travels is one part of a multi-layer approach to COVID safety. The program played a key role in keeping Hawaii's residents safe before vaccinations were widely available, and during the surges we've seen through this pandemic ," said John De Fries, Hawaii Tourism Authority President and CEO. " Bringing the Safe Travels program to a close reflects the progress we have made as a state , and Governor Ige’s decision is a good balance of maintaining reasonable health precautions while reopening our society and economy ."

Hawaii Events

Hawaii Health Protocols

We encourage all travelers to review the Health & Safety Protocols for all of your travel planning resources within the Islands of Hawaii:

Airlines Health Policies

• Air New Zealand
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• China Airlines
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Airport Health Requirements

• Hawaii Department of Transportation

Activity & Tour Policies

Transporation.

• Roberts Hawaii
• Alamo/Enterprise/National
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Meetings & Conventions

• Hawaii Convention Center
• Hawaii Lodging & Tourism Association
• Stay Safe Hawaii

Restaurants 

• Hawaii Restaurant Association
• Retail Merchants of Hawaii

Visiting Hawaii

Upcoming months of travel.

We think it is safe to say that any month of the year you will not be disappointed when you visit the Hawaiian islands. Here's an overview of what to expect in the coming months. Not sure when to visit? Read about the  Best Month to Visit , where we present an overview of each month OR take the quiz on our  Best Time to Visit Hawaii  page.

Information Disclaimer:  Details and information on this page, including dates, may change on a day-by-day basis. While we will be making every effort to keep these pages relevant and up to date, the decision to travel is ultimately your own responsibility.

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Maui Arrival Requirements Revealed for Visitors In 2024

In endless pronouncements even in the past few days, from the hanging-from-a-thread Hawaii Tourism Authority (HTA) and its marketing partners, the word is out, and the messaging is clear on just how they see Maui visitors in 2024. We’re calling it “arrival requirements,” inasmuch as here’s what HTA requests of Maui-bound travelers. This is part of the HTA approved “immediate six-month action plan for 2024 to help address major challenges” associated with Maui.

Maui walks a fine line between necessary tourism, long-suffering fire victims, overall housing shortages and irate anti-tourism advocates.

Using cloaked and potentially offensive terms, HTA says it only wants to attract “respectful” tourists to Maui. This comes as an element of their outreach campaign to both US and Canadian visitors. Canadian visitors typically make up just under 10% of Maui’s visitors and spend just under $1 billion annually. Meanwhile, massive US tourism has an annual estimated value of $16 billion.

Maui is welcoming visitors who are compassionate, who can come respectfully, who can really abide by some of the sensitivities and restrictions in place to protect the community at this time… So long as you do it mindfully. And so, for the time being, tourism’s role in helping Maui’s overall recovery is to ensure that the right kind of respectful visitor returns .” Ilihia Gionson, Hawaii Tourism Authority public information officer

Hawaii Tourism Authority wants to “encourage pono, mindful travel” to Maui.

Laura, a Beat of Hawaii reader responded, “We’ve been traveling “pono” to Maui for over 25 years. What can I expect when we arrive for our annual 3 week stay on January 12? An interrogation before being allowed to leave the airport??

We find the messaging strange and potentially offensive as, for many people, coming to Maui is to vacation in paradise and simply a step away from everyday life. It involves a long flight, expensive accommodations, and airfare. The money they spend contributes to the Maui economy to keep it strong, help locals have employment and provide social welfare benefits to many in need. When visitors are asked to change or confirm their vacation habits because of “sensitivities and restrictions,” this could backfire and send tourists elsewhere.

While HTA still does want to promote tourism, putting seemingly meaningless restrictions in these terms on which visitors it wants could simply turn people away. Visitors might also get the idea, based on this kind of messaging once again, that Maui isn’t really ready for visitors at this time. And that there is simply more that needs to be done before people can have the kind of vacation that they are used to having on Maui.

Hawaii Tourism Authority and HVCB still on the verge of being dismantled.

As the state prepares for the 2024 legislative year, there’s no doubt that HTA and HVCB could be heading to the chopping block once again. After nearly being terminated last year, the state’s tourism arm finds itself without a dedicated budget, and some legislators prefer that the job be handled under the state’s DBEDT (Dept. of Business, Economic Development and Tourism).

After HTA’s prior CEO, John De Fries, left unexpectedly, when he announced he would not renew his contract earlier this year, the new chair, ex-Honolulu mayor Mufi Hanne­mann, hopes to be able to convince legislators to keep the long-embattled agency.

HTA holds hope that Maui’s problems could become its salvation.

Mufi recently said regarding the Maui situation, “I think we have an opportunity to use this crisis to demonstrate that there is a need for an HTA. This economic recovery plan that we came out with for Maui is a great example of how we went out there and listened. Even the group of protesters, we addressed one of their major concerns, which was a post-arrival educational program.”

Look for more news about Hawaii tourism, which will be in the news again in early January following a year of uncertainty about the Hawaii Tourism Authority’s future . And, as is always the case, the endless and often abrupt changes in both HTA and HVCB leadership positions are ongoing, and the HVCB long-term and highly paid President is also departing this week with an unknown replacement being sought.

Maui fire exacerbated pre-existing Maui tourism conflict.

For years before the fire, Maui tourism has been a mixed bag. While it is the sole economic driver both on Maui and in Hawaii statewide, tourism isn’t widely accepted by all residents. That’s been even more true with the post-Covid feverish pitch. Problems include primarily lower-paying jobs, the negative impact of tourism on the housing market, bad traffic, crowded beaches, and more. Maui has been challenged for years by the ever-increasing number of flights and visitors that the iconic island attracts. It is similar to other intensely in-demand visitor destinations globally, which have been overrun with visitors.

Maui’s tourism concerns were previously raised but never addressed.

Efforts have been made previously to limit visitors to around 33% of the island’s population, but tourism, other than post-fire, generally exceeds 45%. Additionally, there have been demands for halting the construction of new hotels.

At the same time, even Maui County council members are afraid of further damaging tourism. One said that visitors “are our #1 economic driver. They create jobs. So they’re very important to us. But people are saying we want to have a balance.”

Maui visitor arrivals are finally trending up.

At long last, the trend of fewer visitors on Maui is changing. As can be seen in the Hawaii DBEDT image above, they are much improved in the past month. After the Lahaina fire, the visitor count dropped to less than half of normal, before very slowly creeping back. It looks as if the return of visitors on Maui is finally in sight, although it will still take time for Maui tourism to be fully recovered.

Are you returning to Maui in 2024, and do you have any concerns?

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217 thoughts on “Maui Arrival Requirements Revealed for Visitors In 2024”

Hard working middle class tourists are not the problem. The filthy rich tourists who Hawaii desires will flaunt Hawaiian laws, and criminals protected by liberals would be the same.

I love Hawaii. We typically dont go to Maui though. I will be going on a cruise that will be there for only 2 days. Such a shame. I prefer travel that is more immersive than the typical tourist. Perhaps thr islands can create 2 options, large resorts where guests pretty much that there and dont impact the community and favor immersive trips that focus on culture, the environment and a less harmful way of transportation than the rental car. I dont mean tour busues, but really good public transportation that delive people more evenly accoss the island. Also good information and guides at the key locations to steer people to good behavior. Punative and or threatening signage will likely not work.

Some of the comments here that smack of entitlement are exactly why folks are asking for “respectful” guests right now. We own a condo that we live in part-time and vacation rent part-time. Prior to COVID, the majority of our guests were lovely & considerate. During peak COVID and post reopening folks were downright rude and treated Maui like it was Disneyland-Hawai’i. That attitude has made it difficult for many to continue to practice aloha towards guests. Deal-seekers post-fire have really been some of the lowest scum. Maui is a special place and should be treated as such.

Hi, I lived in Maui in the 70’s and even back then could see the surge of growth and now it is so sad to see.

What types of bad behavior do you encounter?

We’re coming “home” in early 2025. After reading the comment made by a woman fearing she’ll be interrogated upon arrival I wonder the same. We understand the problems Maui is facing. We also respect Maui and we visit to enjoy it’s beauty and love.

First and foremost, I pray for the families, the land, the sea and the soul of Maui and mostly Lahina. God bless you all. As first time visitors to Maui, my wife and I chose to go there for our anniversary. We wanted to give back and bring love. We met some amazing people, and felt nothing but welcome. We stayed at a local vacation rental owned locally. We shopped locally at Times/ABC/the local Fish Market and such. We were treated with nothing but love and respect. We could feel the devastating effects of the loss, and we talked and prayed with locals. I believe that you get what you give, and we gave love. Maui and everyone on the island gave love back to us. We are thankful and will return.

We just returned from Maui on January 26th, as we had a condo behind Walgreen’s in Lahaina that was destroyed. We had a nice time, but some stores and restaurants on the Lahaina side had modified hours and menus. We found all people we interacted with to be very friendly and accommodating. We won’t be back for at least a year or so until we see more progress happening on that side of the island. While we did visit Kihei and Wailea, we prefer the Ka’anapali side of the island. Maui will always have a special place in our hearts and it is the reason we bought our retirement home.

If the native Hawaiians don’t want us they are doing a great job. We try to be polite, and respectful and too often get ignored in stores or disgusting stares from natives. Also the absolute non caring attitude towards the beach and potentially of property north of Kannapaly is a turn off. To know th,ere are possible solutions but that a few withtoobig a voice can stop the fixing is just wrong. When there is no tourism and people leave because of high taxes, good luck.

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Hawaii lawmakers take aim at vacation rentals after Lahaina wildfire amplifies Maui housing crisis

H ONOLULU (AP) — Amy Chadwick spent years scrimping and saving as a single mother of two to buy a house in the town of Lahaina on the Hawaiian island of Maui. But after a devastating fire leveled Lahaina in August and reduced Chadwick's home to white dust, the cheapest rental she and her now-husband could find for their family and dogs cost $10,000 a month.

Chadwick, a fine-dining server, moved to Florida where she could stretch her homeowners insurance dollars. She’s worried Maui’s exorbitant rental prices, driven in part by vacation rentals that hog a limited housing supply, will hollow out her tight-knit town.

Most people in Lahaina work for hotels, restaurants and tour companies and can’t afford $5,000 to $10,000 a month in rent, she said.

“You’re pushing out an entire community of service industry people. So no one’s going to be able to support the tourism that you’re putting ahead of your community,” Chadwick said by phone from her new home in Satellite Beach on Florida’s Space Coast. “Nothing good is going to come of it unless they take a serious stance, putting their foot down and really regulating these short-term rentals.”

The Aug. 8 wildfire killed 101 people and destroyed housing for 6,200 families, amplifying Maui's already acute housing shortage and laying bare the enormous presence of vacation rentals in Lahaina. It reminded lawmakers that short-term rentals are an issue across Hawaii, prompting them to consider bills that would give counties the authority to phase them out.

Gov. Josh Green got so frustrated he blurted out an expletive during a recent news conference.

“This fire uncovered a clear truth, which is we have too many short-term rentals owned by too many individuals on the mainland and it is b———t,” Green said. “And our people deserve housing, here.”

Vacation rentals are a popular alternative to hotels for those seeking kitchens, lower costs and opportunities to sample everyday island life. Supporters say they boost tourism, the state's biggest employer. Critics revile them for inflating housing costs, upending neighborhoods and contributing to the forces pushing locals and Native Hawaiians to leave Hawaii for less expensive states.

This migration has become a major concern in Lahaina. The Council for Native Hawaiian Advancement, a nonprofit, estimates at least 1,500 households — or a quarter of those who lost their homes — have left since the August wildfire.

The blaze burned single family homes and apartments in and around downtown, which is the core of Lahaina's residential housing. An analysis by the University of Hawaii Economic Research Organization found a relatively low 7.5% of units there were vacation rentals as of February 2023.

Lahaina neighborhoods spared by the fire have a much higher ratio of vacation rentals: About half the housing in Napili, about 7 miles (11 kilometers) north of the burn zone, is short-term rentals.

Napili is where Chadwick thought she found a place to buy when she first went house hunting in 2016. But a Canadian woman secured it with a cash offer and turned it into a vacation rental.

Also outside the burn zone are dozens of short-term rental condominium buildings erected decades ago on land zoned for apartments.

In 1992, Maui County explicitly allowed owners in these buildings to rent units for less than 180 days at a time even without short-term rental permits. Since November, activists have occupied the beach in front of Lahaina's biggest hotels to push the mayor or governor to use their emergency powers to revoke this exemption.

Money is a powerful incentive for owners to rent to travelers: a 2016 report prepared for the state found a Honolulu vacation rental generates 3.5 times the revenue of a long-term rental.

State Rep. Luke Evslin, the Housing Committee chair, said Maui and Kauai counties have suffered net losses of residential housing in recent years thanks to a paucity of new construction and the conversion of so many homes to short-term rentals.

“Every alarm bell we have should be ringing when we’re literally going backwards in our goal to provide more housing in Hawaii,” he said.

In his own Kauai district, Evslin sees people leaving, becoming homeless or working three jobs to stay afloat.

The Democrat was one of 47 House members who co-sponsored one version of legislation that would allow short-term rentals to be phased out. One objective is to give counties more power after a U.S. judge ruled in 2022 that Honolulu violated state law when it attempted to prohibit rentals for less than 90 days. Evslin said that decision left Hawaii's counties with limited tools, such as property taxes, to control vacation rentals.

Lawmakers also considered trying to boost Hawaii's housing supply by forcing counties to allow more houses to be built on individual lots. But they watered down the measure after local officials said they were already exploring the idea.

Short-term rental owners said a phase-out would violate their property rights and take their property without compensation, potentially pushing them into foreclosure. Some predicted legal challenges.

Alicia Humiston, president of the Rentals by Owner Awareness Association, said some areas in West Maui were designed for travelers and therefore lack schools and other infrastructure families need.

“This area in West Maui that is sort of like this resort apartment zone — that’s all north of Lahaina — it was never built to be local living,” Humiston said.

One housing advocate argues that just because a community allowed vacation rentals decades ago doesn't mean it still needs to now.

"We are not living in the 1990s or in the 1970s,” said Sterling Higa, executive director of Housing Hawaii's Future. Counties “should have the authority to look at existing laws and reform them as necessary to provide for the public good.”

Courtney Lazo, a real estate agent who is part of Lahaina Strong, the group occupying Kaanapali Beach, said tourists can stay in her hometown now but many locals can't.

“How do you expect a community to recover and heal and move forward when the people who make Lahaina, Lahaina, aren’t even there anymore?” she said at a recent news conference as her voice quivered. “They’re moving away.”