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Cruise-O-Matic....what is it?

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My 64 1/2 has auto trans with Cruise-O-Matic. What's the difference between regular drive and the green dot? Thanks! Scott  

NEFaurora

Cruise-O-Matic was just the type of Automatic Transmission that the C4 was called. Long Before the C4, There was the FORD-O-MATIC Auto transmission... I think that there were even C6 Trannies called Cruise-O-Matic as well.. The early '64 thru '66 Trannies were called "green dot" trannies. In 1967, They beefed up the C4 and changed the gear selection with two gears reversed, but you can still swap a '67 tranny into a '66 and earlier car.. The bellhousings of the trannies have different bolt patterns as well. The 64/65 has a 5 bolt pattern, and the late 65-'66 and after has a 6 bolt pattern on the C4 bellhousing. YOU WANt TO DRIVE on the Green Dot. The Green DOT has 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear. The white dot is only 2nd, and 3rd gear. My father way back when in the 60's and early 70's kept driving on the White Dot and ruined two C4 Trannies.. The white dot is just meant as a passing shift gear while lane changing or blowing by somebody. That's all. Tony Kovar 1966 Sprint 200 Convertible MCA#70001  

22GT

NEFaurora said: The white dot is only 2nd, and 3rd gear. My father way back when in the 60's and early 70's kept driving on the White Dot and ruined two C4 Trannies.. The white dot is just meant as a passing shift gear while lane changing or blowing by somebody. That's all. Click to expand...
NEFaurora said: Cruise-O-Matic was just the type of Automatic Transmission that the C4 was called. Long Before the C4, There was the FORD-O-MATIC Auto transmission... I think that there were even C6 Trannies called Cruise-O-Matic as well.. The early '64 thru '66 Trannies were called "green dot" trannies. In 1967, They beefed up the C4 and changed the gear selection with two gears reversed, but you can still swap a '67 tranny into a '66 and earlier car.. The bellhousings of the trannies have different bolt patterns as well. The 64/65 has a 5 bolt pattern, and the late 65-'66 and after has a 6 bolt pattern on the C4 bellhousing. YOU WANt TO DRIVE on the Green Dot. The Green DOT has 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear. The white dot is only 2nd, and 3rd gear. My father way back when in the 60's and early 70's kept driving on the White Dot and ruined two C4 Trannies.. The white dot is just meant as a passing shift gear while lane changing or blowing by somebody. That's all. Tony Kovar 1966 Sprint 200 Convertible MCA#70001 Click to expand...

Ponyman66

While the Ford-O-Matic was a 3 speed auto, it was also the name of the two speed auto, normally found in pre-65 Falcons. The "white dot" position was actually intended to decrease the torque output to the rear tires on take off. Primarily for starting on slippery roads, e.g. ice, snow, rain (per the owners manual!).  

The green dot (in what is today normally the 2nd gear position) is equal to D in the later trannies, with full auto shifting thru 1,2,3 forward gears. L is just 1 & 2, and the other dot is just 2 & 3 (maybe just 2nd, can't remember 100% right now). I once had a '66 Fairlane with the green dot shift indicator. I took it in for a look over thinking something was wrong since it would never shift into high. Turns out it was a '67 trans in the car ('67 motor too, but that's another story), so it was always in 2nd when I had the shifter at the green dot. :shrug:  

L is just 1 & 2, and the other dot is just 2 & 3 (maybe just 2nd, can't remember 100% right now) Click to expand...

How exactly does driving on the white dot damage te tranny?? I have been driving white dot for about 4,000 miles.I drive my car very easy,except for the occasional burnout.....  

I would not continue to do that if your transmission has the original valve body and has not been converted to the '67 and later body. The "White Dot" does a second gear start and then shifts to third. It was intended for starting on ice and snow (remember, the designers lived in Michigan) to minimize wheel slip etc. Use the green dot for all normal driving as it does a 1-2-3 shift and should make it easier on the components that are active in second gear. My '66 went 190,000 on the original C-4 using the "Green Dot". When I restored the car in 1998, I installed a '67 valve body so the white dot now does a 1-2-3 shift. Don't drive it in the white dot except when you want really low torque starts as stated above. Good Luck.  

I still do not know how the trans is damaged using white dot most of the time.doing a nuetral drop is a pretty severe blow to a trans, you are slamming it in gear with the engine doing some heavy rpm's, how is this the same as shifting to 2nd at a dead stop[0 rpm's], and taking off? I fully realize what the white dot was intended for....thanks, L  

lleno said: I still do not know how the trans is damaged using white dot most of the time.doing a nuetral drop is a pretty severe blow to a trans, you are slamming it in gear with the engine doing some heavy rpm's, how is this the same as shifting to 2nd at a dead stop[0 rpm's], and taking off? I fully realize what the white dot was intended for....thanks, L Click to expand...

Not at all. Automatic transmission bands engage when you shift into gear, and unless the trans is falling apart, are fully engaged at all times after that, whether you are accelerating, decelerating, or stopped at an intersection. They only engage and disengage when shifting gears. The torque converter provides the function that a manual clutch provides.  

I have a 1966 6 cylinder with a cruseomatic. It will not shift gears. I replaced the vaccum modular and it still will not shift. All the way down and the green dot (2nd position) is first gear, then in order to go into second gear I have to push it to the first position. I have no third gear and it will not down shift on its own. Any suggestions???  

Woodchuck

Group 7 Automatic Transmissions Troubleshooting starts on page 7-9.  

Thank you bartl. I have another question fir transmission smart people. I did remove the shifter from inside the car. Does the shifter have to be installed a certain way? I replaced the vaccum modular and have good vaccum. But I have to manually shift the car into first and second gear and then back to first. It will not do it by itself. Any other suggestions would be great.  

vernslie

Check the down shift cable/lever, it may be stuck in downshift mode. Vern  

Ltfhave55

My 65 has one and the original manual that says the white dot is for starting out on snow or other slippery conditions because it starts out in 2nd gear for lower torque so the tire won't spin as much  

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Ford C4 Transmission Identification: Your Comprehensive Guide

The Ford C-4 transmission is one of the most iconic and enduring automatic transmissions in automotive history.

Appearing in the early 1960s, it quickly gained popularity for its efficiency and versatility.

In this exploration of Ford C4 Transmission Identification , let’s delve into all basic information about it over the years.

I will provide a comprehensive guide to recognizing and understanding the unique aspects of Ford’s venerable transmission lineage.

Why Did Ford Decide To Develop The C4?

What is a C4 transmission? Ford decided to develop the C4 to replace its previous two-speed Ford-O-Matic transmission.

The C4 transmission, a three-speed automatic model,  was introduced in the early 1960s. It was designed to improve vehicle performance, fuel efficiency, and drivability.

The C4 transmission was part of Ford’s efforts to keep up with the production demands in the automotive industry.

The three-speed design of the C4 allowed for smoother shifting and better acceleration. This makes it more suitable for a wide range of driving conditions.

Additionally, the C4 was more compact and lighter than its predecessor. It helps reduce the vehicle’s overall weight and improves fuel economy.

Its simplified design also made it easier to manufacture and maintain.

Ford C4 Transmission Identification 

You will see a special tag in the transmission (usually on the passenger’s side) that states its name, which is C4. Or, check for a nearly square pan measuring 9 x 10 inches with 11 built-in bolts.

What are the Gear Ratios of the C4?

How long is a C4 transmission? The Ford C4 transmission typically came with three different gear ratio configurations. These C4 gear ratios are as follows:

First Gear (1st ): The first gear ratio in the C4 transmission is generally around 2.46:1 or 2.40:1. This gear provides strong initial torque and is used for starting the vehicle from a standstill.

Second Gear (2nd): The second gear ratio is typically around 1.46:1. It strikes balances of acceleration and speed. It is also used during moderate driving conditions.

Third Gear (3rd): The third gear ratio is usually 1.00:1. It offers a direct drive, meaning there is no torque multiplication. This gear is used for high-speed cruising and efficient fuel consumption.

Some variants of this popular transmission body may have slightly different gear ratios. However, the above ratios are common for standard C4 transmissions.

Ford made several updates and improvements to it over the years. That is why there are minor variations in gear ratios across different model years and vehicle applications (especially heavy-duty applications).

Where Was the C4 Transmission Made?

The C4 transmission body was primarily made at the Sharonville transmission plant in Ohio, United States. This plant was responsible for producing it until 1981.

The Sharonville plant was known for producing not only the C4 but also the C6 automatic transmissions .

These new transmissions were designed to fit Ford’s high-power applications big-block V8 engines.

What are the specs of the C4 transmission?

Part Number : This is a 4-digit code, including both letters and numbers. The first letter hints at the decade when the C4 was produced: A – 1940s, B – 1950s, and C – 1960s.

For instance, C5SP translates to a 1965 C4 transmission.

Weight: The C4 transmission gear is significantly lighter than the Ford-O-Matic.

It weighed approximately 110 pounds dry (without fluid) and without the locking torque converter, compared to the 228 pounds of the Ford-O-Matic.

The lighter weight of the C4 was achieved by using an aluminum alloy construction for its components.

Construction: The C4 is made of cast aluminum alloy. While the Ford-O-Matic was constructed of cast iron.

The C4 can be disassembled into three pieces: the five-bolt bellhousing, the main case, and the tail housing. All of these are made of aluminum alloy.

Size: It is close to 17 to 18 inches long. This number slightly varies based on the selected case fill or pan fill option.

You can catch a nearly square-shaped 9×10 pan with 11 integrated bolts.

Durability: The C4 transmission had improved durability compared to its predecessor. It was designed to be more reliable and robust, contributing to its long production life of 19 years.

Transmission Fluid: The C4 required approximately 5.5 quarts of fluid without the torque converter.

Depending on the torque converter applied, it might need an additional 2-4 quarts of fluid.

Popularity: It remains popular today, particularly in hot rod applications. This is where it is often used after modifications by aftermarket professionals.

Its popularity is due to its lightweight, durability, and ease of change.

How did the C4 Become the Select-Shift?

The C4 3-speed Cruise-O-Matic transmission (Dual-range), a.k.a Green Dot, was introduced from 1964 to 1966.

This transmission came standard with a valve body, allowing drivers to start in 2nd gear on slippery surfaces with a 2-to-3 gear-up, represented by a tiny dot next to N (neutral).

Additionally, by engaging the bigger green dot next to “L,” drivers could start in 1st gear and experience a regular upshift from 1, 2 to 3rd gear.

During this period, Ford referred to its C4 as the Cruise-O-Matic , but Mercury named its version Merc-O-Matic.

This was a widely-known trademark for the automatic transmissions of Ford during the mid-1960s.

In 1967, Ford dropped the Cruise-O-Matic name and applied the term “Select-Shift” for all its automatics.

Moreover, for the 1964 model year, the C4 gearbox featured a 5-bolt bellhousing exclusively for V8 engines. 

In August of the same year, Ford upgraded its V8 engines (outfitted with the C4) with a larger 6-bolt pattern bellhousing to minimize vibration, harshness, and noise.

What Are The Problems With the Ford C4 Transmission?

Here are the problems commonly associated with the C4 transmission Ford :

Leaking Fluid

  • Over time, the Ford C4 transmissions may experience an increased likelihood of leakage. The pan gasket, front pump seal, rear seal, and shift shaft seals are common areas prone to leaks.
  • Leaking transmission fluid can lead to a loss of fluid levels. This can cause the transmission to overheat and eventually lead to transmission failure.
  • Remember to check for and fix fluid leaks regularly. Doing so will help maintain the proper function of the C4 transmission.

Clutch Failure

  • The C4 transmission uses multiple clutches to engage different gears. Over time, these clutches can wear out due to normal use and heat.
  • Clutch failure can lead to slipping gears, harsh shifts, sticking to the floor , and poor performance transmission.
  • Proper maintenance, regular fluid changes, and avoiding heavy loads can help prolong clutch life in the C4 transmission. You can also replace a new clutch if needed.

Band Slippage – The Death Shudder

  • Band slippage refers to a condition where the bands used to engage specific gears in the transmission fail to hold properly due to wear or damage.
  • Band slippage can cause a severe shuddering or vibration sensation during gear changes, particularly in the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts.
  • If left unaddressed, band slippage can lead to significant transmission damage. As a result, you will need to rebuild or replace the affected components.

If you encounter any mentioned problems, for example, transmission fluid gushing out , contact a qualified mechanic or transmission specialist.

He will know exactly what to do to get the job done.

How Hard Is It To Rebuild A Ford C4 Transmission?

Rebuilding a Ford C4 automatic transmission can be a complex and challenging task. It requires certain mechanical knowledge, expertise, and access to specialized tools.

The difficulty will vary depending on the individual’s experience and skill level.

For individuals with extensive experience, rebuilding an automatic transmission C4 is achievable.

However, attempting a transmission rebuild is mostly impossible for those without the knowledge and expertise.

In a worse case, it can lead to costly mistakes or even unsafe results.

It is often best to entrust the rebuilding process to an experienced mechanic. They have the expertise, tools, and resources to rebuild properly.

They can ensure the transmission’s reliability and performance.

Is It Easy To Find Parts For The Ford C4 Transmission?

Finding parts for the C4 transmission can be relatively easy due to its popularity. The Ford transmission C4 was used in various vehicles for many years.

Therefore, it is one of the most commonly found transmissions in the automotive world.

As a result, there is healthy aftermarket support and availability of genuine and aftermarket replacement parts for the C4 transmission.

How Does A C4 Transmission Work?

The Ford C4 transmission is a three-speed automatic transmission. It employs hydraulic pressure, clutches, and planetary gear sets to shift gears automatically.

It utilizes a torque converter to connect the engine to the transmission and achieves different gear ratios through planetary gear arrangements.

A hydraulic system controls the transmission’s operation, and shifting occurs based on engine and vehicle speeds.

The Ford C4 transmission identification is not that challenging if there is an identification tag. But if not, you can rely on its appearance and part number.

Anyway, remember to take care of your transmission and its fluid properly, since failure in this system will wreak havoc on many parts of your car.

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Gearstar

Performance Evolution of Ford Automatic Transmissions

The era between 1964 and the 1980s was remarkable in the automobile industry. During this period, millions of Ford vehicles – i.e., cars and trucks – were equipped with C4 and C5 automatic transmissions. These were purely ford automatic transmissions – i.e., zero electronic controls – that were very popular with hot rodders, racers, as well as restorers due to their low cost and simplicity.

However, despite the possibility of purchasing cores and rebuilding in order to suit the requirements of a particular vehicle for a far less rebuilt modern overdrive automatic transmission with electronic controls, they lacked the lockup torque converters and overdriven gears newer transmissions rely heavily upon in order to boost fuel economy. Ford faced a seemingly insurmountable challenge in the late 1950s: shedding the old-fashioned technology and dated image. However, the carmaker faced the challenge head-on, beginning in 1958 with the new generation of the FE-series V-8 engines. 

Before 1960, Ford vehicles were burdened with heavily obsolete BorgWarner-designed cast-iron FX and MX automatic transmissions famously called Ford-O-Matics, Cruise-O-Matics, and Merc-O-Matics. The FX was small, while the MX was a popular large-case automatic. These were rugged, dependable, and heavy transmissions, so complex that adapting them to performance applications was next to impossible.

Falcon and Comet

Ford introduced its Falcon and Comet sixes in 1960. Just before then, Ford engineers had painstakingly developed lightweight aluminum-case automatic transmissions for the exciting lineup of vehicles that arrived in the ’60s. Soon enough, the 90-degree Fairlane small-block V8s followed the lightweight-iron Falcon and Comet sixes in 1962. The Mercury Comet and Ford Falcon, introduced in the ’60s, came with the new lightweight Ford-O-Matic two-speed transmission. BorgWarner manufactured this 2-speed transmission for new-generation small V-8s and straight-6.

The hard steel parts inside and out and its aluminum case made the Ford-O-Matic different from its predecessor. In its early application, the Ford-O-Matic transferred heat to the atmosphere through the cooling vents in the bell housing and torque converter. There was no transmission cooler in the radiator, and no fluid was used as a coolant. However, later versions of this Ford transmission came with a transmission fluid cooler in the radiator. In addition, the Merc-O-Matic/Ford-O-Matic came with a case-fill dipstick tube, with the main case and bell housing cast as one, in order to reduce the likelihood of leakage and excess weight.

The Ford C4 Transmission

After learning a lot from the BorgWarner 2-speed automatic transmission, Ford took its knowledge and used it to build the C4 3-speed automatic transmission known as the Cruise-O-Matic for the 1964 model year.

  • The C4 automatic transmission was manufactured at Ford’s transmission plant in Sharonville, Ohio, from 1964 to 1981. It was the first automatic transmission Ford solely designed and constructed. It utilized a new, cutting-edge Simpson compound planetary gear set that became the industry standard for decades.
  • The C4 automatic transmission earned its name from the model year it was manufactured, i.e., ‘C’ denotes the ’60s decade while ‘4’ was for the year 1964. However, this naming practice lasted less time than expected, as the transmissions that followed were C3 in the ’70s and C5 in the ’80s.
  • The C4 was known as the ‘Dual-Range Cruise-O-Matic’ from ’64 to ’66, otherwise known as the Green Dot transmission. This transmission was equipped with a unique valve body that enables you to start driving in second gear on snow and ice with a 2-3 upshift. This is the small dot on the indicator.

The larger green dot near ‘L’ at the detent allows a driver to start in first gear and go through the typical 1-2-3 upshift program.

Cruise-O-Matic

Ford called its new automatic transmission the Cruise-O-Matic , but Mercury called its own the Merc-O-Matic. Bear in mind that ‘Cruise-O-Matic’ was the broad marketing name for the Ford automatic transmissions created in the mid-’60s era. But by 1967, the name ‘Cruise-O-Matic’ was dropped in favor of the name ‘Select-Shift’ and was picked up and used for all automatic transmissions from Ford. The C4 automatic transmission only had the 5-bolt bell housing for V-8s for only the 1964 model year. However, by August 1964, the V-8s and C4 it was mated to were ingeniously fitted into the larger 6-bolt bell housing in order to reduce vibration, noise, and harshness.

The following are the C4 gear ratios:

  • First gear – 2.46:1
  • Second gear – 1.46:1
  • Third gear – 1.00:1
  • Reverse gear – 2.20:1

The C4 transmission evolved, resulting in the introduction of other design changes. The most notable was the ’67 and ’69 valve body that offers a traditional P-R-N-D-2-1 shift pattern.

The Ford C5 Transmission

Ford introduced the popular C5 Select-Shift transmission in 1982. Its only difference from its predecessor was that it came with a locking torque converter in order to boost fuel economy significantly. The C5 automatic transmission remained in production from 1982 to 1986 at Ford’s transmission and axle plant in Livonia, Michigan. But it wasn’t recommended as one of the high-performance transmissions. Nevertheless, the C5 transmission shares most of its internal components with its predecessor, including the cases. The C5 transmission was manufactured as pan-fill and case-fill with 157- or 167-tooth flexplates.

The Ford C6 Transmission 

Ford introduced its heavy-duty C6 –speed transmission for high-torque applications. This automatic transmission was behind the large-displacement big-block V-8s. Its internal components and case were entirely different from the C4 transmission, but internally, they were the same, though scaled largely for heavy-duty use.

The rugged C6 transmission had four basic bell housing bolt patterns throughout its long production life as it was designed solely for high-power applications. There’s also the small-block C6 automatic transmission intended only for 351W as well as 351C engines and fits any 6-bolt 289/302/351W/51C small-block bell housing bolt pattern.

The C6 transmission for diesel engines was produced in the ’80s before the introduction of the 4R100 (E4OD) in 1989. Despite the arrival of the 4R100, Ford continued producing the C6 automatic transmission for industrial applications until 1996.

The arrival of the ’70s met Ford with a respectable lineup of great and modern lightweight automatic transmissions. Here are the C6 gear ratios:

  • First Gear – 2.46:1
  • Second Gear – 1.46:1
  • Third Gear – 1.00:1
  • Reverse – 2.00:1

Ford has undergone decades of performance evolution from it’s first automatic transmission to the current one in the market. The current transmission may not be perfect in every sense. But it is sure the car maker will improve its transmissions to deliver worthy experiences for their esteemed customers.

Ready to experience top-notch transmission solutions and expert support?

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Green Dot rebuild - What's needed?

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The green dot trans in my 65 Galaxie is acting up a bit and I've been thinking about going through it and freshening it up myself. Partly to save some dough and partly because I'm interested in doing the job myself. Is there some sort of standard rebuild kit I can buy that would have the correct parts for my trans without having to tear it down first? Are many special tools required for the job?  

Pioneer makes a $120 dollar master kit for a C-4. Buying that is all you'll need besides some Tranny fluid.  

puttster

Though Ford used the term Cruise-o-matic for many years, the green dot version only lasted two years. After that, the C-6 took over the big blocks. As a result that COM is a bit of an orphan, tough to find a kit. For example, autozone gives you the wrong filter, you need the one with two holes, Transmission Screen And Pan Gasket Kit WITH PAN GASKET CRUISE-O-MATIC F100 & F250 - MAC's Antique Auto Parts In short you will have to look pretty hard to get the parts you need, might have to find the clutches one place, the bands someplace else. The good news is the 1965 shop manual gives excellent instructions on rebuilding, so you will not be lacking for guidance, just parts. If I am wrong and there is a kit out there, I want to hear about it!  

What is the transmission? If it is a C4 then you will want to add a rear servo piston/seal assembly, modulator (white stripe), front band, thrust washer kit and bushing kit to the master overhaul kit.  

nice! I'm gonna do it. Paul, as I understand it the green dot is the 65-66 only model of C4 trans and has a different valve body which gives it the PRN2DL shift pattern.  

Partially right and partially wrong. The green dot version of the C4 was introduced in 1964 and 1966 was the last year, then the select shift transmission came into being. The Green dot shift quadrant was as follows: P R N Small dot Green dot L In the small dot position the transmission starts in second gear and shifts to third. In the green dot position all 3 speeds are available. 1967 and up had a shift quadrant of: P R N D 2 L With select shift when the "2" postition is selected the transmission stays in second gear.  

65er said: Stuarta nailed it. This is what I've got. I don't know for sure if "L" keeps it in first or first and second only, guess I should try it out sometime. Click to expand...

I've got a Green Dot myself and Stuarta is right on this one.....I've got one 67 VB that I plan to use that a friend wanted to rebuild. He use to work in a tranny shop but he's retired and missed that stuff. I have to swap out the VB with his supervision....I couldn't resist the offer.  

FEandGoingBroke said: if you shift into 3rd then grab first at any speed over 45 MPH or so it will drop to second and stay there for the duration unless you slow to the range of the 1st gear then it' drops rather suprisingly into 1st... Click to expand...

the 66 valve body can be swapped for the 67 - 69 for the newer pattern but it is my understanding the the 64 and 65 are different.  

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What is the cruisamatic green dot on a 1966 mustang?

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I just bought a 66 convertible. Drove it all the way from Dallas to South Carolina. Tried it in both the green dot gear and the one above it. (Drive?) I could not feel any difference between the two gears. Which one is 3rd gear? A cruisamatic is a C4 right? I don't know if the tranny is original but the shifter says cruisamatic and has the green dot beside the middle gear. Also, when starting out in green dot gear, I can't feel any shifts and the car seems to have only one gear. When I start out in the other drive gear, I feel one shift. And when cruising at say 40 or 50 mph, and I floor it, there is no kick down in either of those two gears. It just accelerates real slow. How does this tranny work?:?::?::?:  

The '65 & '66 C4 Cruise-O-Matics had two drive ranges. The green dot is normal drive, with first, second, and third gears. The white dot position only uses 2nd and 3rd gears. Someone thought that starting in second gear would provide better traction on ice or slippery surfaces. Obviously, this theory didn't work all that well, and subsequent C4's reverted back to the conventional P-R-N-D-2-1 shift pattern. The kickdown problem is something completely different. I would start by inspecting the kickdown linkage to make sure it is all there and properly adjusted. You didn't say what engine you have; keep in mind that the I6's used a cable and the V8's used a rod mechanism (at least in '65).  

Green dot transmission thanks for the info. Th kick down cable was missing.  

ic237

FirstGenStang said: I just bought a 66 convertible. Drove it all the way from Dallas to South Carolina. Tried it in both the green dot gear and the one above it. (Drive?) I could not feel any difference between the two gears. Which one is 3rd gear? A cruisamatic is a C4 right? I don't know if the tranny is original but the shifter says cruisamatic and has the green dot beside the middle gear. Also, when starting out in green dot gear, I can't feel any shifts and the car seems to have only one gear. When I start out in the other drive gear, I feel one shift. And when cruising at say 40 or 50 mph, and I floor it, there is no kick down in either of those two gears. It just accelerates real slow. How does this tranny work?:?::?::?: Click to expand...

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How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step

Ford’s C6 transmission was first pressed into service for 1966. It was designed to replace a generation of heavy and outdated BorgWarner MX and FX iron-case transmissions used behind Ford big-block and Y-Block V-8s. The C6 is on a par with GM’s Turbo- Hydramatic 400 and Chrysler’s 727 Torqueflite transmissions. It is a heavyduty 3-speed automatic transmission designed primarily for high-power V-8 engines and employs a conventional, non-locking torque converter.

Internal C6 architecture isn’t much different than that of the smaller C4 introduced in 1964 (see Chapters 4 and 5). The C6 differs in its size and having a larger case—where bellhousing and main case are one integral casting. This means you are faced with choosing between at least four basic types of C6 bellhousing patterns. Here’s what you can expect to find and how to differentiate between them:

This Tech Tip is From the Full Book, HOW TO REBUILD & MODIFY FORD C4 & C6 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS . For a comprehensive guide on this entire subject you can visit this link:

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385-Series 429/460  and 351/400M

6.9L/7.3L Diesel Engines

Small-Block

Bellhousing

Round six-bolt

Angular six-bolt (with closed bottom)

Six-bolt similar to 385-Series (with open bottom)

The C6 consists of a torque converter, front hydraulic pump, Simpson compound planetary gearsets controlled by one band, three disc clutches, a single one-way roller clutch, and a simple mechanically controlled hydraulic control system.

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 1

The C6 differs from the smaller C4 in its low-reverse function. Instead of a low-reverse drum as in the C4, you instead have a low-reverse clutch package tied to the case, which performs the same function in a C6. This means the C6 is equipped with one band and servo instead of two.

For its first year, 1966, the C6 was a Dual-Range Cruise-O-Matic Green Dot transmission like the C4, where normal driving takes place on the green dot at the detent. For special driving conditions on snow and ice, the small dot (off detent) starts you out in second gear, with upshift into final drive once you get going. For the first-year the C6 was a standalone unit, meaning the valve body was Dual-Range for that year only.

For 1967, the C6 became Select- Shift with a routine P-R-N-D-2-1 shift pattern just like the C4. For slippery conditions, you start out in “2” or second gear to get going. To get an upshift into final drive, you must move the shifter into “D” or Drive.

Aside from minor changes in the 1970s and 1980s, the C6 didn’t change much over its long production life from 1966 to 1996. The C6 remained in production long after it was dropped from Ford passenger cars and trucks because it remained popular with companies that needed it for heavy-equipment applications.

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 2

This is the small-block C6 with the six-bolt small-block bellhousing for 351W and 351C engines. You may also use this transmission behind your 289/302 V-8, though I don’t suggest it. There’s simply too much weight and parasitic drag going on here to be used behind the lower-displacement V-8s. Venting comes from a mushroom vent on top of the case.

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 3

The C6 for 385-series 429/460-ci big-blocks and 351/400M engines. Don’t get this one confused with the C6 for Diesel engines, which is the same but with a cutout at the bottom of the bellhousing for torque converter access. Some 385-series and M-series C6s are finned and others are not. Fins add strength and some degree of cooling capacity because they radiate heat.

C6 Operation

C6 function isn’t much different than you find in the C4 with the exception of having a low-reverse clutch instead of a low-reverse band and clutch drum. Function begins with the front pump, a simple gear pump that provides hydraulic pressure for operation and lubrication for moving parts. The system is protected with drain-back and pressure-relief valves. The drain-back valve keeps the torque converter full after shutdown. A pressure-relief valve prevents overpressure and catastrophic failure.

The C6’s power flow follows the same path as the C4’s except for the low-reverse function. You get better load distribution and torque multiplication through Simpson planetaries and a ring gear around a sun gear. And this is where you are in first and second gear.

The objective is to get power from the input shaft to the output shaft via a series of planetaries and clutches. The C6’s input shaft is splined into the forward clutch. In neutral, the forward clutch turns with the input shaft and torque converter turbine. With all of its clutches and steels, the forward clutch transfers power to the ring gear, which is mated to the forward planet carrier.

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 1

This rounded bell is the FE-series big-block C6, which doesn’t have fins as on the 385-series/M Series and small-block C6s. Some FE C6s were finned later in production for added strength.

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 5

Ford C6 castings are identified by Ford casting numbers like this one—D5UP- 7006-AA—on a mid-1970s main case.

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 6

Expect to see Ford casting and part numbers on all castings including: tailshaft housings, clutch pistons, ring gear hubs, governors, and more. This makes these items easier to identify, but it isn’t a perfect system. The year noted isn’t always when the part was cast. This number is only the last engineering change, so expect to see a 1977 that was actually cast in 1979 as one example. And because the valve body is in two halves, expect to see different casting number years on each half, depending upon engineering changes.

The forward planet carrier is tied to the output shaft via the sun gear. When the transmission is in first or second gear, the forward planet is always in motion.

Through the Gears

As the reverse-high clutch (direct clutch) and input shell come into play, power begins to flow. The reverse-high clutch rides on the pump stator. It is also mated to the forward clutch. When you apply the reversehigh clutch, it engages the forward clutch. The reverse-high clutch is linked to the input shell, which is connected to the sun gear. As power flows to the sun gear, it travels to the low-reverse or rear planet carrier to the low-reverse ring gear, which is splined to the output shaft.

For the most part, I’ve described C4 function to this point with the same cast of players. The C6 differs in where the power travels at this point. Instead of a low-reverse band and clutch drum, you have a low-reverse clutch locked into the transmission case. When you apply the intermediate servo and band to the forward clutch cylinder, power is channeled through the forward planet, which becomes second gear during the 1-2 upshift.

In first gear, the input shaft turns the forward planet, which reverses input shaft rotation to the sun gear. The sun gear is splined into the lowreverse (rear) planet, which again reverses rotation to the output shaft. This gives you a gear reduction of 2.46:1 (2.46 revolutions to every 1 revolution of the output shaft).

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 7

At a glance, the huge C6 pan has a little dogleg at the vacuum modulator, which makes it easy to identify.

In second gear, fluid under pressure energizes the intermediate servo, thereby locking the band, forward clutch drum, and sun gear. The forward planet rotates around the sun gear, which provides support at this point. This drives the forward ring gear, which drives the output shaft in the same direction at a ratio of 1.46:1.

When a C6 shifts into final drive, the intermediate band releases the forward clutch drum, and both forward and reverse-high (direct) clutches are applied. With the reversehigh and forward clutches applied, both input and output shafts are connected and the entire package rotates at the same speed for a 1.00:1 ratio.

In reverse gear, the low-reverse clutch is applied to hold the reverse planet stationary. When this happens, the reverse-high clutch is applied to get the input shaft tied to the sun gear. Because the reverse planet is held still, this causes the sun gear to be driven in the opposite direction as the input shaft. This turns the the ring gear, which is tied to the output shaft, at a ratio of 2.175:1.

Pressure Relief Valves

Hydraulic pressure is there for control and lubrication purposes in the C6. Pump pressure, also known as line or control pressure, has to be controlled for proper and safe operation. Fluid flow begins at the pump cavity and flows into the torque converter. This is why it is important to have fluid in the converter during installation. Fluid in the converter primes the system and gets fluid moving from the sump to the pump to the converter. It’s a momentum thing.

There are two valves important to this discussion: the drain-back valve and the converter pressure-relief valve. The drain-back valve’s job is to keep fluid in the torque converter after shutdown. It unseats at 5 psi during engine start and allows fluid flow. The converter pressure-relief valve, which vents to the sump during overpressure (90 psi), is next in line. The main regulator valve is next, which regulates control pressure.

Next in line is the governor, which is mounted on the tailshaft. The governor has two valves that work hand in hand. The primary valve starts to work when vehicle speed reaches 10 mph. This keeps the governor from going to work below this speed. Once the primary governor opens, allowing fluid pressure to pass, the secondary valve comes on line as a means of controlling the shift point based on vehicle speed.

Valve piston movement is countered by spring pressure. As vehicle speed increases, centrifugal force causes the valve pistons to override spring pressure and the valves open one at a time with corresponding speed.

Throttle Valve Operation

Shift control is determined by both the vacuum modulator (throttle valve) and the kickdown linkage after the governor comes on line. Kickdown linkage is for wide-openthrottle operation. As with the C4, the C6’s vacuum modulator ties manifold vacuum to transmission control pressure. The greater the intake manifold vacuum, the lower the control pressure for a sooner, softer upshift. When we have low intake-manifold vacuum at wideopen throttle, the throttle valve helps increase control pressure for a firm upshift, which is what you want at wide-open throttle.

As with the C4, throttle valve adjustment on the C6 is key to proper operation and reliability. You’ve got to get this right or face slippage and transmission failure. To adjust the throttle valve properly, you’ve got to know control pressure, which involves a pressure gauge at the control pressure port just above the manual shift and neutral safety switch. Transmission sump temperature should be at a hot idle. Cold transmission fluid gives you an erroneous pressure reading on the high side because the fluid is denser when cold. The gauge pressure range needs to be 0 to 400 psi.

First, you must establish proper throttle valve function. Does the throttle valve work properly? Is there vacuum leakage? This is checked with the throttle valve removed using a vacuum pump or intake manifold vacuum from an operating engine at idle. At 18 to 22 inches of vacuum, you are able to tell if there’s leakage by a hissing sound or the absence of diaphragm/rod movement. There should also be diaphragm and rod movement at 18 to 22 inches of vacuum. At higher elevations, your engine may struggle to maintain 18 inches at idle.

With the throttle valve installed, transmission in neutral/park, and engine at idle, you should have a minimum of 18 inches of manifold vacuum. Anything lower than 18 inches of vacuum indicates engine health problems that must be corrected or you have a really lumpy camshaft profile. If you have at least 18 inches of vacuum and the selector is in any forward gear, you should see 40 to 61 pounds of line pressure. In reverse, you want 60 to 93 pounds of line pressure.

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 2

With the throttle open at 10 inches of vacuum and the transmission in any forward gear, you should see 100 to 114 pounds of line pressure. At low vacuum, expect to see 154 to 180 pounds of line pressure in any forward gear. In reverse at low vacuum, expect to see 234 to 275 pounds of line pressure.

Whenever line pressure isn’t within these parameters, throttle valve adjustment must be done with great care. When line pressure is too high, shifts become harsh. If line pressure is too low, shifts become soft (slippage) and that’s when you do damage with burned clutches and bands. To increase control pressure, throttle valve adjustment needs to be turned clockwise. To reduce line pressure—adjustment is counterclockwise.

Ford says one full turn either way adjusts line pressure 2 to 3 psi. Check line pressure at idle, at 10 inches, and then at 3 inches of manifold vacuum to determine if any further adjustment needs to be made. Never base your adjustments on shift-feel alone; that isn’t what line pressure is all about. Always use a pressure gauge and follow Ford’s guidelines to the letter.

Intermediate Servo and Apply Levers

Servo selection for the C6 isn’t nearly as involved as it is for the C4 because there really is only one type, the R servo, to ensure good intermediate band hook-up and release. But you must be careful to properly match servo covers, pistons, and apply levers. This requires thorough examination of the Ford Master Parts Catalog if you want to be absolutely certain of the intermediate servo pieces you need for your C6.

Expect to find N, L, P, and S servo covers, which are the most common servo covers, though I am sure there are more. The transmission professionals I’ve consulted with all agree on the R servo or an equivalent aftermarket billet replacement. Where it can get tricky is the variety of intermediate servo apply levers.

If you’re going for street/strip performance, you should investigate the 6061-T6 billet-aluminum intermediate servo apply levers available from Sonnax Performance, which offer durability as well as mechanical advantage. Three ratios are available: 1.85:1 (E-ratio), 2.30:1 (F-ratio), and 2.82:1 (FF-ratio).

That way, you know exactly what you have when it’s time to build. And the R servo works well with any of the stock apply levers I’ve seen in a variety of builds. In other words, the R servo is a no-brainer because racers have been using it for decades with great success. The R servo arrived for the C6 with the 428 Cobra Jet engine in 1968 and is a proven performer.

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 3

The C6, unlike the C4, uses an intermediate servo apply lever to help provide mechanical advantage to apply the intermediate band. There are six servo-apply-lever ratios to be aware of, and you must be very careful of which ones you use with corresponding servo covers and pistons. Broader Performance advises against the use of the F 2.30:1-ratio apply lever and R servo because shifts become too aggressive and can damage your C6.

Here are the six known Ford servo-apply-lever ratios. The higher the servo-apply-lever ratio, the greater the apply force. These letter codes can be found cast into each apply lever.

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Protocol for the C6 front pump is the same as it is for the C4, with no special modifications needing to be made. Inspect the pump cavity and gears for abnormal wear patterns and scoring. Any excessive wear patterns call for pump replacement. TCI Automotive has provided Tom’s Transmissions with a remanufactured front pump assembly ready for installation, although I suggest you never install a component right out of the box without close inspection. And then fill the pump cavity with assembly lube for a good start-up.

Aside from that first year with the Green Dot Dual-Range C6 pattern, the C6 valve body didn’t change much over its 30-year production life. The first-year Green Dot valve body is discouraged unless you’re restoring a stocker and originality is important to you. During the 1970s, the manual valve went from an internal detent to an external detent with a case-mounted detent roller and band. This is something to be mindful of as you amass parts for your C6. Make sure your valve body and transmission case match. If you have the external detent mounted on the case, you want a free-sliding manual valve. If there’s no external detent, you want the valve body with an internal detent with a ratcheting manual valve.

Whenever you source a C6 valve body, always determine origin because applications vary greatly. For example, you wouldn’t want a C6 valve body for a Diesel application for your 390 or 428 because shift programming and overall operation is quite different due to different pressures and calibrations. Diesels call for an extremely firm shift program for a more solid transfer of torque.

Broader Performance offers a reasonably priced variety of C6 valve body packages depending on how you intend to use your C6. Broader Performance goes to extreme detail with its blueprinted valve bodies, offering you everything from a stock auto-shift valve body, manual and reverse-pattern, to pro tree. These valve bodies are machined to provide a perfect mating surface. Then, they’re ultrasonic cleaned before assembly to ensure all debris is removed. Each C6 valve body is assembled and calibrated to your application.

The main thing to remember when searching for a valve body core is to know where it came from for reasons of compatibility and calibration. Read casting numbers and date codes, then, check the Ford Master Parts Catalog to determine origin.

Building Tips

When Ford designed the C6 to begin with, it didn’t mess around. This transmission was designed and produced to be Ford-tough like no other automatic had been to date. This means the C6 takes a pounding with stock components and red street frictions and comes back for more. That’s the good news, and there isn’t much bad. This is an extremely rugged transmission as it came from Ford. For your street build, few modifications are necessary to achieve durability and performance.

The only really bad news with C6 transmissions is internal drag due to dated thrust washer design, which promotes friction. There’s also the excessive weight of those tough internals. Figure on losing 50 to 60 hp just trying to turn a stock C6 transmission, which is why the C4 became such a popular dragracing transmission. But you didn’t read this chapter to learn the C6’s disadvantages—you want to know how to build one. All racers have their C6 tricks, and I touch on a few of them here. The objective is to build a sturdy street/strip/tow transmission that serves you well for thousands of miles.

The C6 was replaced in Ford vehicles by the E4OD 4-speed automatic overdrive transmission in 1989, which has internals very similar to the C6 and an added overdrive unit. In fact, the E4OD utilizes extreme-duty pieces that work well in your C6 build once you know what you’re doing.

Torrington Bearings Instead of using thrust washers, these components are designed to reduce internal friction by using Torrington bearings, which are actually upgrades found in the Ford E4OD heavy-duty overdrive transmission. The E4OD transmission isn’t much more than a C6 with overdrive, a fresh case, and low-friction components inside. The Low-Drag Planetary gear set offers the durability and mechanical advantage of six-pinion performance instead of three each as you find in the C6. Brian Fotrune of Tom’s Transmission is going to build a vintage C6 transmission designed for old-fashioned big-block power yet with engineering refinements that have come since the mid 1970s, including a 2.72:1 first and a 1.54:1 second gear. Although this gearing is engineered for the Modular V-8 and V-10 engines with their different torque curves, it works quite well in drag racing because vintage big-blocks offer you the acceleration advantage.

One of the most important elements of a transmission build is proper seal use and installation. Take note of what type of seal is on each component during disassembly to ensure the same type of seal goes back on. You may find transmission failure from time to time where seals were improperly installed or wrong seals were used. When you install clutch pistons, do it gently and carefully to prevent seal damage, which is one of the leading causes of transmission failure.

Forward Clutch

Because Brian is going with the TCI Low Gear, Low-Drag package here, there are significant changes happening to the geartrain you need to be aware of. The forward clutch hub, borrowed from the E4OD parts bin, is different than the C6’s and arrives as a part of the TCI kit. Torrington bearings throughout greatly reduce frictional issues.

The TCI Auto six-pinion forward and rear planetary carriers provide greater load distribution  qualities than you find on the older C6 threepinion units, which makes our C6 better for durability in racing or towing.

Some transmission techs endorse removal of the wavy washer in the forward clutch for the addition of a clutch friction. We have five clutch frictions as it is, which is satisfactory, and plenty for the street.

And while I am on the subject of clutches, some transmission shops dress the steels for improved traction. However, I’ve never seen steels come out of a box dressed, but instead as raw steel. Clutch drums should be dressed with 400- to 600-grit paper because traction here is critical to better upshifts. The wider you can spec your band width, the better. I cannot overstress the importance of checking clutch clearances followed by an air-check on each.

During forward clutch assembly, pay close attention to the Belleville spring condition. Unseen hairline cracks can cause the Belleville spring to break during that first road test. I am often inclined to suggest a new Belleville spring with every transmission build because this piece gets stressed to where cyclic fatigue takes its toll.

Another issue to watch for is any clutch piston/drum irregularities or scoring. It’s the minute things you cannot see (ragged edges and nicks) at first glance that can cause transmission failure; seals get damaged by these irregularities during installation or start-up.

Building the C6

As shown here, Brian from Tom’s Transmissions builds a street/strip C6 transmission and shows you how to improve both durability and performance with components from TCI Automotive. Here’s what’s on the bench at Tom’s Transmissions from TCI Automotive:

  • 1966–1976 C6 Master Racing Overhaul Kit
  • 1966–1976 C6 Low Gear, Low- Drag Planetary Set
  • C6 Direct High-Performance Friction Clutch Steels (.075 inch)
  • C6 Reverse High-Performance Friction Clutch Steels (.075 inch)
  • C6 Powerband High-Performance Flex Band

Step-1: Replace Shifter Seals (Important!)

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 1

Step-2: Lubricate Seals

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 2

Forward Clutch Assembly

Step-1: press in forward clutch piston.

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 1

Step-2: Install Lock Ring

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 2

Step-3: Insert Belleville spring

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 3

Step-4: Install Pressure Plate

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 4

Step-5: Install Wavy Washer

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 5

Step-6: Insert Frictions and Steels

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 6

Step-7: Install Pressure Plate

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 7

Step-8: Inspect Forward Clutch

8

Reverse-High Clutch Assembly

Step-1: install reverse-high piston seal.

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 1

Step-2: Install Reverse-High Clutch Piston

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 2

Step-3: Install Return Springs and Retainer

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 3

Step-4: Inspect Measure Reverse-High Clutch Pressure Plate (Critical Inspection)

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 4

Step-5: Install Clutches & Steels

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 5

Step-6: Install Pressure Plate

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 6

Step-7: Install Forward Clutch Hub

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 7

Step-8: Insert Retaining Ring

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 8

Step-9: Mate Clutch Packs

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 9

Step-10: Install Thrust Washers

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 10

Step-11: Install Hub

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 11

Planetary Gearset Installation

Step-1: planetary upgrade option.

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 1

Step-2: Insert Thrust Bearing

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 2

Step-3: Install Forward Planet

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 3

Step-4: Insert Bearing

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 4

Step-5: Install Shell & Sun Gear

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 5

Step-6: Inspect Rear Planet

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 6

Low-Reverse Clutch Assembly

Step-1: install roller clutch.

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 1

Step-2: Install Clutch Piston Seals

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 2

Step-3: Install Clutch Piston

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 3

Step-4: Insert Spring Retainer

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 4

Step-5: Install Inner Race

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 5

Step-6: Install Hub

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 6

Step-7: Inspect Steels (Critical Inspection)

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 7

Step-8: Prepare To Install

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 8

Step-9: Install Steel

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 9

Step-10: Install Friction, Steels, Clutches

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 10

Step-11: Install Pressure Plate

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 11

Governor Installation

Step-1: inspect governor assembly.

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 1

Step-2: Reassemble Governor Assembly

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 2

Step-3: Inspect Rings

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 3

Step-4: Install Governor

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 4

Step-5: Inspect Pawl

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 5

Step-6: Install Washer

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 6

Step-7: Install Parking Gear

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 7

Step-8: Install Distributor Sleeve

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 8

Step-9: Install Output Shaft

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 9

Step-10: Install Bearing

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 10

Step-11: Inspect Installation

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 11

Step-12: Install Ring & Hub

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 12

Step-13: Install Rear Planet

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 13

Step-14: Insert Torrington Thrust

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 14

Geartrain Installation

Step-1: install forward geartrain.

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 1

Step-2: Install Intermediate Band

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 2

Step-3: Align Intermediate Band

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 3

Step-4: Install Intermediate Servo Apply Lever

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 4

Step-5: Inspect Input Shaft

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 5

Step-6: Insert Splines

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 6

Step-7: Use Grease For Pump Gasket Retention

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 7

Step-8: Install Front Pump Gears

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 8

Final Assembly

Step-1: assemble pump.

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 1

Step-2: Install Rings

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 2

Step-3: Install Pump O-Ring

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 3

Step-4: Install Thrust Washer

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 4

Step-5: Air-Check Clutch

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 5

Step-6: Install Pump Gasket

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 6

Step-7: Install Pump Assembly

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 7

Step-8: Choose Intermediate Servo

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 8

Step-9: Install Intermediate Servo Piston Seals

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 9

Step-10: Install O-Ring & Gasket

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 10

Step-11: Assemble Cover & Piston

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 11

Step-12: Install Cover & Piston

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 12

Step-13: Adjust Intermediate Band

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 13

Step-14: Air-Check Clutches & Servos

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 14

Step-15: Install Tailshaft Sleeve

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 15

Step-16: Install Valve Body

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 16

Step-17: Check Valve Body Function

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 17

External Assembly

Step-1: inspect throttle valve.

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 1

Step-2: Install Throttle Valve

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 2

Step-3: Inspect Pan Gaskets

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 3

Step-4: Transmission Fluid

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 4

Step-5: Install Torque Converter

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 5

Step-6: Install Low-Friction Torrington Bearings (Performance Tip)

How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step 6

Written by George Reid and Republished with Permission of CarTech Inc

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A Guide to the Most Beautiful Green Spaces in Moscow

Izmailovsky park in Moscow

Home to more parks than any other city in Russia , Moscow offers a cornucopia of choice when it comes to green spaces. From innovative wild urbanism to 18th-century royal estates, here are the best places to escape from the city buzz in Russia’s capital.

Spread over a territory of almost 300 acres, Gorky Park is Moscow’s most popular green space. Opened in 1928, it was designed as ‘a city inside a city’ with its own telegraph, police unit and a doctor’s office. Some 90 years later, Gorky Park offers everything from segway rides to an open-air movie theatre, through to illuminating lectures and fantastic dining spots.

9 Krimsky Val, Moscow, Russia , +7 495 995 00 20

Gorky Central Park, Moscow – Russia

As the name implies, Muzeon is perfect for art lovers. The park plays host to art fairs, exhibitions, music festivals and video performances. But even if you don’t care for art, Muzeon has a lot to offer: from an elegant boardwalk to hip coffee shops to an in-ground fountain, where you can actually cool off in summer.

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2 Krimsky Val, Moscow, Russia , +7 985 382 27 32

Krymskaya embankment, Muzeon

Hermitage Garden

Opened in 1894, the Hermitage garden is a lovely compact park, nestled between high rise buildings in Moscow center. Home to theaters New Opera, Hermitage and Sphera, the garden is predictably crowded, with theatre-goers along with office workers from the business centres in Tverskaya – all flock here for a green respite.

3 Karetnyy Ryad, Moscow, Russia , +7 495 699 04 32

Sokolniki Park

An open-air cinema, a rope course, amusement park, bike rentals and more – Sokolniki is 1,275 acres of fun. In winter the whole park turns into one of Moscow’s most famous skating rinks. Sokolniki gradually blends into Losiny Ostrov National Park – the world’s third largest forest in a city.

1 Sokol’nicheskiy Val, bld. 1, Moscow, Russia , +7 499 393 92 22

Izmailovsky Park

Moscow’s biggest park, Izmailovsky stretches for almost 3,800 acres. Particularly favored by hikers and cyclists, the forest-like park is a popular family spot, equipped with a ferris wheel, outdoor gyms and all kinds of places to eat.

7 Alleya Bol’shogo Kruga, Moscow, Russia , +7 499 166 61 19

Boat station at Izmailovsky Park in Moscow

Tsaritsyno Museum-Reserve

Tsaritsyno estate is a perfectly reconstructed specimen of 18th century architecture set amid a lush green forested area. The only park in Moscow that boasts a light and music fountain, Tsaritsyno draws crowds with spectacular night water shows.

1 Dol’skaya Ulitsa, Moscow, Russia , +7 499 725 72 87

Tsaritsyno estate

Severnoye Tushino Park

Despite a rather remote location, this park is definitely worth a visit. A half-a-century old apple garden, serene views on Khimkinskoye reservoir and a dry-docked submarine housing a Museum of Submarine Navy will definitely make up for the ride from the city centre.

Ulitsa Svobody, Moscow, Russia , +7 495 640 73 55

The riverfront in Severnoe Tushino Park, Moscow

Kolomenskoye

Kolomenskoye Park is not merely a tranquil green space, but a celebrated museum reserve, where nature and historically significant architecture blend together. Here you can see one of Moscow’s oldest churches Church of the Ascension and a former residence of the Tsar Aleksey Mikhailovich Romanov, the father of Peter the Great. It’s also perfect for romantic walks along the Moskva river.

39 Andropova Ave, Moscow, Russia , +7 499 782 89 17

Apple orchards in Kolomenskoye (Moscow)

In this park you’re guaranteed to encounter some ducks, woodpeckers, squirrels, hares and urban wildlife. The park is also famous for its beautiful boardwalk, open-air cinema, ropes course Panda Park, gallery of retro cars and a variety of places to eat.

22/1 Ulitsa Bol’shaya Filevskaya, Moscow, Russia , +7 499 145 45 05

Fili Park embankment

The former estate of the Sheremetev family, Kuskovo is a fascinating piece of 18th-century Russia. Home to 20 unique architectural monuments, it is Moscow’s only historical park with a French formal garden, decorated with green walkways, marble statue and state-of-the art pavilions.

44/2 3-Ya Muzeynaya Ulitsa, Moscow, Russia

Pavilion ‘The Grotto’ in Kuskovo Estate, 1755-1775, Moscow

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Increasingly we believe the world needs more meaningful, real-life connections between curious travellers keen to explore the world in a more responsible way. That is why we have intensively curated a collection of premium small-group trips as an invitation to meet and connect with new, like-minded people for once-in-a-lifetime experiences in three categories: Culture Trips, Rail Trips and Private Trips. Our Trips are suitable for both solo travelers, couples and friends who want to explore the world together.

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ford cruise o matic green dot

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IMAGES

  1. Cruise-o-matic green dot indicator

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  2. Cruise-o-matic green dot indicator

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  3. Cruise-o-matic green dot indicator

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  4. Cruise-o-matic green dot indicator

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  5. Cruise-o-matic green dot indicator

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  6. Haut 56+ imagen cruise o matic green dot

    ford cruise o matic green dot

VIDEO

  1. Adaptive Cruise Control Radar Blocked Warning OBDLinks MX+ to the rescue. Code C1A67

  2. 2013 Ford Econonline Walkaround Video

  3. 2013 Ford full video on profile

  4. Ford connect silver GLX

  5. Test drive Ford FE 352 w/Cruise-O-Matic transmission 11/8/2014

  6. The sad story of the Ford Connect

COMMENTS

  1. The Green Dot Cruise-o-matic

    The Green Dot Cruise-o-matic. My cruiso is only hitting two gears. For my 1965 352, that is fine when the selector is on the black dot, because the black dot drive intentionally skips low gear. But I'm hitting only two gears when I'm on the green dot. Seems like a linkage problem to me but even it it is, I don't know how to check it - or what ...

  2. How To: Understand and Identify Automatic Transmissions

    '64-'66 Dual Range "Green Dot" Cruise-O-Matic. Small dot is second gear start-out for driving on snow and ice. ... Prior to 1966, Ford used the MX Ford-O-Matic three-speed transmission in most ...

  3. need a diagram of a cruise o valve body..

    Ok i seem to think that my cruise o matic number C3TP-7006 A has something missing in the valve body. ... in the green dot is where the problem is it starts at low but wont shift out of low. in the white dot it starts off in second and shifts into 3rd at about 30-35 mph. only problem is in the green dot position. revers and all works fine ...

  4. Cruise-O-Matic....what is it?

    NEFaurora. 9081 posts · Joined 2007. #2 · Feb 18, 2009. Cruise-O-Matic was just the type of Automatic Transmission that the C4 was called. Long Before the C4, There was the FORD-O-MATIC Auto transmission... I think that there were even C6 Trannies called Cruise-O-Matic as well.. The early '64 thru '66 Trannies were called "green dot" trannies.

  5. Technical

    1958 was the first Cruise-O, Fords first usable 3 speed auto trans for the masses and for the most part call the "green dot". The 1st notch under "N" was drive starting in 2nd, the next notch or "Green Dot" was 1-2-3, then there was "L"; this held it in 1st or 2nd if you were going over the govenor control speed the 1st.

  6. Ford Cruisomatic transmission

    1. When Ford first came out with an automatic transmission, it was called a Ford-O-Matic. It was an iron case transmission. ... In 1958, Ford started using a sprag in the planetary and called the transmission a Cruise-O-Matic. ... All of the Ford three speed transmissions used the Green dot-White dot shift pattern until 1967 when they came out ...

  7. Green Dot Transmission

    689 posts · Joined 2013. #6 · Feb 15, 2021. Thanks for the offer. Turns out its not a green dot tranny at all, but a later model select-shift from a column shift vehicle. The shift linkage was cobbled together incorrectly to fit my car, and the shift pattern and valve body were indeed messed up among other things.

  8. Ford C4 Transmission Identification: Simple Guidance For You

    The C4 3-speed Cruise-O-Matic transmission (Dual-range), a.k.a Green Dot, was introduced from 1964 to 1966. This transmission came standard with a valve body, allowing drivers to start in 2nd gear on slippery surfaces with a 2-to-3 gear-up, represented by a tiny dot next to N (neutral). ... In 1967, Ford dropped the Cruise-O-Matic name and ...

  9. Understand Automatic Transmissions, Mustang C4, C6, and FMX

    The C4 Cruise-O-Matic, assembled at Ford's Sharonville, Ohio, transmission plant, entered service in 1964 as a Ford designed and built three-speed automatic to replace the dated MX and FX Ford-O ...

  10. Performance Evolution of Ford Automatic Transmissions

    The larger green dot near 'L' at the detent allows a driver to start in first gear and go through the typical 1-2-3 upshift program. Cruise-O-Matic. Ford called its new automatic transmission the Cruise-O-Matic, but Mercury called its own the Merc-O-Matic. Bear in mind that 'Cruise-O-Matic' was the broad marketing name for the Ford ...

  11. green-dot Cruise-O-Matic

    I use to race a green dot cast iron Cruiseomatic. The shift pattern goes as follows: Park, Reverse, Neutral, Drive 2 (white dot), Drive 1 (green dot), Low. The green dot is where the tranny would have 1-2-3 gears while the white dot would start in second gear and shift to high. For racing I would leave the starting line in Drive 1 (green dot ...

  12. Green Dot rebuild

    Though Ford used the term Cruise-o-matic for many years, the green dot version only lasted two years. After that, the C-6 took over the big blocks. As a result that COM is a bit of an orphan, tough to find a kit. ... The green dot version of the C4 was introduced in 1964 and 1966 was the last year, then the select shift transmission came into ...

  13. Cruise-o-matic green dot indicator

    The PRNDL indicator dial was used on 1961/62 Galaxies with 292 Y blocks and Ford-O-Matic. 292 replaced by 289 in 1963. The Cruise-O-Matic green dot indicator dial used on Galaxies looks very similar to the trucks. I've owned over a dozen 1963/64 Galaxies, all had Cruise-O except one w/a 4 speed. 1967 F100/350's used a different shift indicator ...

  14. What is the cruisamatic green dot on a 1966 mustang?

    The '65 & '66 C4 Cruise-O-Matics had two drive ranges. The green dot is normal drive, with first, second, and third gears. The white dot position only uses 2nd and 3rd gears. Someone thought that starting in second gear would provide better traction on ice or slippery surfaces. Obviously, this theory didn't work all that well, and subsequent C4 ...

  15. How to Build a Ford C6 Select Shift Transmission: Step by Step

    For its first year, 1966, the C6 was a Dual-Range Cruise-O-Matic Green Dot transmission like the C4, where normal driving takes place on the green dot at the detent. For special driving conditions on snow and ice, the small dot (off detent) starts you out in second gear, with upshift into final drive once you get going.

  16. Cruise-O-Matic

    Cruise-O-Matic. Ford-O-Matic was the first automatic transmission widely used by Ford Motor Company. [2] It was designed by the Warner Gear division of Borg Warner Corporation and introduced in 1951 model year cars, and was called the Merc-O-Matic when installed in Mercury branded cars and Turbo-Drive when installed in Lincoln branded cars. [2]

  17. Moscow will have 1,000 electric buses by the end of 2021

    The city says it will increase its electric bus fleet to 1,000 by the end of 2021. Moscow's Department of Transport (DOT) says that the Russian capital will expand its fleet of electric buses to ...

  18. OHGO: Real-Time Traffic and Road Status Information

    OHGO: Real-Time Traffic and Road Status Information. Know B4 U Go: Real-time traffic info & details on closures, incidents, traffic cameras, and more. Search. Ohio Department of Transportation | Central Office Address: 1980 West Broad Street, Columbus, OH 43223 | Contact Us. $ {title} $ {badge}

  19. New Ford and Used Car Dealership in Moscow Mills, MO near WENTZVILLE

    Visit Jim Trenary Ford in Moscow Mills, MO near WENTZVILLE, St Peters, St Charles, O'Fallon, MO for New Ford Auto and quality used cars, service and parts. Your local Ford Dealership! Skip to Main Content. 255 John Deere Drive Moscow Mills MO 63362-1147; Sales (636) 366-0704; Service (636) 366-0705;

  20. A Guide To The Most Beautiful Green Spaces In Moscow

    Izmailovsky Park. Moscow's biggest park, Izmailovsky stretches for almost 3,800 acres. Particularly favored by hikers and cyclists, the forest-like park is a popular family spot, equipped with a ferris wheel, outdoor gyms and all kinds of places to eat. 7 Alleya Bol'shogo Kruga, Moscow, Russia, +7 499 166 61 19.