road trip bike

Best touring bikes 2024: tourers for adventures on two wheels

Although there are many bikes capable of cycle trips, the best touring bikes remain the optimal tool for longer journeys

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Our pick of the best touring bikes

What to look for in a touring bike.

The allure of the open road is one of cycling’s enduring themes. Touring by bicycle allows for this on a grand scale, travelling for several days, often in far-flung places with all your kit strapped to the bike. Of course, micro-adventures closer to home can be just as much fun and still keep the spirit of adventure alive.

Whether you’re planning an expedition abroad or fancy exploring more local roads in far greater detail, a touring bike is the ideal tool for the job. Designed for cycling long distances in comfort, the bikes should be both stable and reliable in their handling, as well as providing all the mounts you need for pannier racks and bags and mudguards . Self-sufficiency is one of the tenets of cycling touring, so the bikes are usually designed with ease of maintenance in mind, too.

The good news for touring cyclists is that the range of bikes available to cater for their needs has grown substantially in the last few years.

In this guide, we've rounded up the more traditional options. If you're thinking of going off-road, perhaps investigate gravel orientated options in our buying guide here , and if you plan to go quick and travel light, see endurance road bikes here .

There's more on what to look for in a touring bike below - but first, here are our top picks of the best touring bikes.

Genesis Tour de Fer 30 touring bike

Specifications, reasons to buy, reasons to avoid.

This is a bike that's been created exclusively to provide a comfortable and practical ride for a touring cyclist. The Reynolds 725 Heat-Treated Chromoly frame promises a springy ride and an incredibly strong base.

The 160mm rotor mechanical disc brakes are a more modern introduction with a nod to practicality, especially in the wet. Although we’ve found mechanical TRP Spyre brake calipers aren’t quite as powerful or as easy to modulate as a hydraulic brakeset, they are easy to adjust and highly reliable – perfect for a long-distance tour.

A 10-speed Shimano Tiagra drivetrain is about right for a bike at this price point, but in our experience, a 50/39/30 crankset provides gears that are just a bit too big for cycle touring – particularly over hilly terrain. 

But you can always swap this out for a smaller ringed option down the line. We find that with a cassette of 11-34t, going for a granny ring of 26t is generally a good bet.

We’ve always found Schwalbe’s Marathon tyres to be highly puncture resistant and with a good wear rate. In 35c, these are capable of traversing broken roads and tamer gravel, but if you’re planning on spending a large amount of time off road you would want something a bit plumper.

Handily, this bike come with many of the accessories we think are a must. Firstly, mudguards, but also dynamo powered front and rear lights, bottle cages and the Tubus pannier racks front and rear.

Surly Disc Trucker

A spin-off of Surly's much-revered Long Haul Trucker, the Disc Trucker keeps many of the much-loved versatility and can-do attitude, but this time with the addition of mechanical disc brakes and thru-axles – unlike the Genesis Tour de Fer 30 which has disc brakes and QR axles.

Opinion is a little split on thru-axles for touring – if you have any catastrophic issues with your hubs in more remote countries, you're unlikely to be able to find a replacement locally. That said, those kind of hub issues are quite rare and if it does happen you can always get a replacement sent out. For the improved alignment between the rotor and the caliper, we think the benefits outweigh the negatives.

A multitude of braze-on mount means the Disc Trucker is capable of running front and rear bags, full-coverage fenders, two water bottles, a spare spoke and even a pump peg. However, in not coming with these accessories, you will have to factor these into the cost, making the value for money a little less than the Genesis Tour de Fer 30 or the Kona Sutra.

With both 26" and 700c wheel build options available, the Disc Trucker can be as adventurous as you choose. The 26" (in sizes 42-58cm) is capable of taking up to 2.1" tires, while the 700c version (in sizes 56-64cm) has room for up to 42mm tires — both with fenders.

Although touring bikes generally do have a more relaxed position than a typical road bike, designed as they are for comfortably covering long distances, the Disc Trucker does have a particularly high front end. This isn't necessarily a problem, but if you are coming from a road cycling background, you may find just such an elevated position a little uncomfortable 

Made from a CroMoly Steel, the Disc Trucker comes equipped with a Shimano Alivio/Sora drivetrain, with the 48/36/26 triple Alivio crankset and 11-34 9-speed Shimano cassette provides a gearing range we find to be a great balance between top-end speed and low-end winching – particularly if you’re planning on maxing out the rider and kit weight limit of 161kg (355lb).

Kona Sutra All Road touring bike

The gloss black Sutra is made from Kona 's Cromoly steel frame and is kitted out with smooth-rolling Schwalbe Marathon Mondial 700x40c tires on WTB STi23 rims, which are now tubeless-compatible.

The current model has replaced the previous Shimano Deore 3x10 drivetrain with 2x10 chainset from Shimano's GRX gravel range. It's a move that's unlikely to please the touring purists. The 46/30t chainrings are matched with a 11-36t cassette, which sees the bike's gearing range reduced. It should still see you up the steep climbs, just perhaps not in as much comfort as before.

Gone too are the bar-end shifters, replaced with Shimano 10-speed Tiagra road shifters. Again it's quite the change, moving the Sutra from a traditional tourer into a far more modern interpretation. It reduces some of the bike's previous mechanical simplicity, which is appealing if your tours are long and overseas. That said the move to STI levers will appeal if you're used to riding a regular bike.

Another nod to modernity are the TRP disc brakes, which are blend of mechanical and hydraulic, and the frame's thru-axles.

With a Brooks B17 leather saddle, mudguards and a front pannier rack finishing off this tourer, this good-looking bike oozes style.

The leather Brooks saddle does require a bit more care than what you might be used to – it need to be kept covered from heavy rain and needs a semi regular application of cream to keep the leather supple. But by functioning essentially as a hammock, it is exceptionally comfortable and only gets better over time as it moulds to your shape – it wears in, rather than out..

Ridgeback Voyage

Classic styling never goes out of date - and the vintage-looking Voyage has got it by the bucket load, though a redesign means that modern tech has not been overlooked.

The Ridgeback Voyage uses Reynolds 520 tubing for the frame, with a CroMoly steel fork. A rack and full mudguards (fenders) come as standard. 

The Shimano 48/36/26t triple chainset paired with an 11-34 cassette offers a good range of gearing although with relatively large jumps between the gears due to having just nine gears at the rear. 

We don’t find this to be too much of an issue when taking it steady on a cycle tour but would prefer something a little tighter if multiple very high mileage days are planned.

Shifting and braking is taken care of by Shimano's reliable Sora levers and Tektro cantilever rim brakes. The latter certainly help make the Voyage a maintenance-friendly machine - easy to maintain and find replaces for, even in remote locations - although disc brakes may be a preferred choice for all-weather tourers.

Alex rims with a high spoke count are pretty dependable, even if not the flashiest and fitted with 32c Continental Contact tyres, they can handle a little off road, but are best suited to the tarmac.  

Trek 520 disc touring bike

Constructed from Trek's CroMoly steel, the frame has been designed around disc brakes and fitted with a rack and fenders mounts.

The Bontrager Affinity rims are tubeless-ready, which might be worth setting up if you want a bit of a faster ride when commuting. But for long-term touring it’s generally best to stick with inner tubes so as to avoid the added complication of sealant drying out. Bontrager’s 38c H1 hard-case Ultimate tyres offer good puncture resistance themselves.

The drivetrain is a mixture of Shimano parts with Sora shifters. The crankset is a triple, with 48/36/26 tooth chainrings, and the cassette is an 11-36 so you'll have ample gears when the road goes up. TRP Spyre C 2.0 mechanical disc mechanical discs look after stopping.

However, with only nine sprockets on the cassette, the jumps between the gears are a little large, as with the Ridgeback Voyage. But if this does cause you an issue, and if you find yourself not using all of the gears, you could fit a tighter range cassette for smaller jumps.

Like the Genesis Tour de Fer 30, the wheel axles are QR, which can make getting the rotor and caliper aligned properly a little more difficult than with a thru-axle system

The overall weight comes in at 14.26 kg / 31.4 lbs in a size 57, which is lighter than some of the more traditional options.

Cube Travel Pro Trapeze touring bike

Cube offers its Travel Pro tourer in both a traditional crossbar and step-through frame design, with the latter making mounting and dismounting this robust, aluminum bike easy and convenient.

The convenience theme is carried through much of the bike. It's equipped with a Shimano Nexus internal hub gear system and a Gates CDN Belt Drive system which offers super low maintenance compared with a more traditional chain and derailleur system.

With this eight-speed hub, the jumps between the gears is a little larger and the overall range a little lower than you can get with a derailleur system, and it's not quite as efficient. But that said, if you're planning on taking it steady on your cycle tour, those points are pretty immaterial compared to the benefit of much lower maintenance.  

There's plenty of clearance for extra-wide tires and the wheels are currently wrapped in Schwalbe's Marathon Almotion 29x2.15in rubber.

Finishing off this functional tourer are full-length fenders, an adjustable CUBE stand Pro kickstand, a Knog Oi bell, lights (front and rear), and a semi-integrated carrier for pannier bags; these features will have you covered for any adventure.

Salsa Marrakesh

The Marrakesh is designed to take you touring wherever you wish — including a trip around the world if necessary. The frame is built from 4130 CroMoly tubing and has a serious array of mounts. There's room for up to five bottle cages thanks to extra fork mounts plus it comes fitted with front and rear racks. There's even a mount to carry a spare spoke.

Elsewhere there are bar-end shifters and a 3x9-speed Shimano Alivio groupset. The gearing range is designed to get you up the steep stuff even when fully loaded thanks to 48/36/36 triple chainring paired with an 11-36t cassette. The shifters also make roadside maintenance a little easier.

Its world-touring credentials are further aided by its generous tire clearance - 700 x 40mm even with mudguards (fenders), and comes stock with Maxxis Roamer 42mm tires. This means you should eat up the miles in comfort even when the road gets rough.

It's difficult to lay out specific criteria when it comes to choosing a touring bike because the beauty of touring is that it can be whatever you want it to be – there is no single best touring bike for everyone, what is best for you depends on the type of tours you want to go on. However, there are key elements to consider when selecting your two-wheeled riding buddy, which will enable you to get the best touring bike for you.

Touring bike frame

If you're planning a longer trip, and intend the bike to be used primarily for such adventures, then the resilience and comfort of steel is a sensible choice. As such, most of the best touring bikes will feature this metal. The amount you're willing to invest will dictate the weight, strength and character of the steel you end up with.

When looking at steel touring bikes, expect to see the word 'Chromoly' a lot. This is a form of low alloy steel that is used when strength is particularly important. It takes its name from two of the primary alloying (mixing of metals) elements used: “chromium” and “molybdenum”.

If you're planning on using the bike for touring and other duties: club runs, commutes, shorter rides where speed might be more in your interest, consider aluminum or carbon .

Bikes suitable for touring will have a relaxed geometry: a shorter top tube and taller stack to put the rider in a more relaxed position. The wheelbase will be longer, to create a feeling of stability. You'll also notice that the chainstays are longer - this means panniers can be mounted without a chance of clipping your heels and it allows for better distribution when panniers are full.

Touring bike wheels

Elsewhere in the cycling world, we talk about low weight and aerodynamics when it comes to bicycle wheels. And sure, if you're aiming to break a world record on your cycle tour then those are probably still very important areas to consider.

However, if you mainly want to get to somewhere rather far away, and you'd like to arrive there with a wheel that's still true and contains the same number of spokes you left with, then a strong wheel is what you desire. Look for a higher spoke count that you might opt for on a speedy road bike.

The best touring bikes will generally have at least 36 spokes per wheel, tandem touring bike can even go as high as 48. 

Touring bike tyres

It's incredible how much difference a set of tyres can make to a bike. The frame can be designed with comfort top of the agenda, but put on some narrow rubber shoes and pump them up to the wrong tyre pressure and you'll be bumping about all over the road.

Most touring cyclists will want to go for wider tyres - 28mm+, when compared with their road racing cousins. The further off the beaten track you want to go, the wider they should be. If you plan on tackling some light trails, look for 32mm+.

Touring bike brakes

Traditionally, touring bikes had rim brakes and these will certainly do the job for most road-based tours. However, disc brakes do provide far superior stopping power, especially in the wet, and they are now more common than rim brake on the best touring bikes

Since disc brakes don't rely upon the rim to bring the bike to a halt, they also reduce the risk of the rims becoming worn through debris building up on the pads.

Add in that many touring cyclists are carrying luggage, therefore adding to the overall load, powerful brakes that work in all weathers do seem like a sensible addition. However, not everyone likes the appearance of disc brakes on a traditional steel machine and the pads are a tiny bit harder to replace and set up, which is worth considering if you're maintaining your bike on the road.

Luggage and Lights on a touring bike

A purpose-built touring bike will come with pannier racks fitted, as well as fenders and perhaps even built-in lights. These all add to the overall weight, but if the intended purpose requires them, it's no bother.

If you plan to use the bike for other purposes, like group rides, then you may want to look for a bike that comes with eyelets for guards and racks, so that you can remove and fit them as and when.

There's a lot of clever luggage solutions around these days, such as frame bags and oversized saddlebags , that allow you to do away with panniers if you'd rather distribute weight differently.

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Michelle Arthurs-Brennan the Editor of Cycling Weekly website. An NCTJ qualified traditional journalist by trade, Michelle began her career working for local newspapers. She's worked within the cycling industry since 2012, and joined the Cycling Weekly team in 2017, having previously been Editor at Total Women's Cycling. Prior to welcoming her daughter in 2022, Michelle raced on the road, track, and in time trials, and still rides as much as she can - albeit a fair proportion indoors, for now.

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No matter how you like to explore, there is an ideal bike for you.

117   Best Road Bikes

• Based on reviews from 327 experts and 3,637 users
• Learn how the BikeRide Score works and see our guide to road bikes
• Updated March 2024

The BikeRide Guide to Choosing the Best Road Bike

What Makes a Road Bike?

Race vs. endurance, choices, choices, types of road bike, direct sales vs. local bike store, finding your ideal bike, what matters, further reading and useful links.

Although technologies have rapidly advanced, road bikes have been ridden in a similar way for almost a century and a half. Road cycling is confined to even, asphalt roads that cater to consistently high speeds. This doesn’t mean that riders are limited to urban environments. This is a sport that traverses impressive outdoor landscapes while embracing a strong social aspect and competitive spirit. These factors are reflected in the attributes of the modern road bike.

While there are different types of road bikes, they all share distinguishing features. All road bikes place the rider in the characteristically ‘arched’ posture that caters to a low-profile and athletic riding position. It’s a style of riding that increases aerodynamics and strongly engages certain muscle groups, including hamstrings and quadriceps. So, how is the bike itself contributing to this ride experience?

Drop Bars are a fixture on road bikes, placing the rider in an ‘athletic position’ on descents and fast-flats. They also allow a range of hand positions and postures; depending on whether the rider is tackling climbs, descents or even terrain.

Tires are skinnier on road bikes than for most other bike types. Traditionally, they measured 23-25mm in circumference, but wider-volume tires are becoming more common. Race bike tires can now be as wide as 28mm, with some endurance bike tires topping out between 30 and 33mm.

Generally, a road bike has no suspension , as low weights are paramount. Also, the native environment of the road bike is smooth asphalt, which requires very little compensation from the bike. The small amount of ‘suspension’ required is usually incorporated into the forgiveness of frame material or compensated for by wider volume tires.

However, recent trends suggest that this situation is changing. A few new models of endurance bikes are incorporating subtle suspension mechanisms. These allow a wider cross-section of cyclists to ride for longer, on more uneven roads.

Gears on a road bike are plentiful and cover a wide range. The most common arrangement consists of two chainrings running eleven or twelve cogs on a rear cassette, giving 22 or 24 ‘speeds’ in all. The ratios of these gears will differ between endurance and road bikes but will be optimized for climbing, descending, and achieving high speeds.

There are other attributes that are universally pursued in road bike design. One of the most desirable is a low overall weight, which drops as prices rise.

Stiffness , in the form of minimal lateral flex, contributes to the conservation of pedaling energy. Frame-builders seek to couple this with ‘vertical compliance’ , which refers to a desirable level of shock absorbance and vertical forgiveness. In layperson’s terms, this means that the bike will hopefully absorb small bumps and imperfections in the road’s surface, rather than vibrating up through the rider’s body.

Minimalism goes hand-in-hand with the need to reduce weight. For this reason, you’ll notice that serious road bikes will not have eyelets for racks and fenders. They probably won’t have an orange flag or spokey-dokes, either.

Some features are common on road bikes, but not universal. Aerodynamic tube shapes are common on race bikes.

Integrated componentry can be found on many weight-shaving climbing bikes. These parts include the seatpost, stem and handlebar. The idea of consolidating parts that are usually separate, is to reduce weight and to increase aerodynamics and stiffness. Aesthetically, these parts look pretty darn cool too.

Most road bikes fall into one of two categories; ‘endurance’ or ‘race’. There are significant differences in the geometry of these types.

Endurance bikes (also known by the name ‘Sportive’), are designed with distance-riding and long-term comfort in mind. As such, these frames are more relaxed than race bikes, placing the rider in a more upright position that contributes toward stability.

On the other hand, Race bikes aim for aerodynamic design complemented by aggressive geometry for fast handling. The rider’s torso is lowered over the bike to decrease drag. Speed is the goal here.

The search for a road bike needn’t be daunting. There are a few considerations to help you narrow down your selection. Realistically, what kind of riding do you think you’ll be doing in the future? What level are you at now?

If you aren’t really going to achieve blistering speeds, is it necessary to invest in a high-cost bike that employs advanced aerodynamic design? These rigs are built to shave off every second possible. If you live in a flat area, maybe a race bike is more suitable, as higher speeds will be more attainable.

If your local area or intended terrain is mountainous, a lightweight climbing machine may be more your speed.

Budgetary considerations are another restricting factor that will make your choice easier. If you can afford any bike, then ride-style and comfort will be of utmost concern. But if you only want a faster commute to work, while reserving the possibility of a weekend jaunt – maybe a lower price-point is plausible.

With your needs – and these factors – in mind… Let the odyssey begin!

Most road bikes fall into the two main categories of ‘endurance’ and ‘race’. Either you’re going full-pelt or long-distance. But there are specialized climbing rigs and flat-bar road bikes to consider as well. Let’s take a closer look at the main types:

All road bikes aim to be lightweight. But for aero bikes, the minimization of drag is a higher priority than weight. Large, flat tubes are a characteristic of these bikes, with the focus being trained on speed.

In line with this aerodynamic obsession, wheels have rims that are deep, flat and (preferably) made of carbon. Higher-end models have undergone many hours of testing in wind-tunnels, in order to shave off any and every millisecond possible. Comfort is not a top priority.

Steering is sharp and handling is fast. Bikes are stiff, due to flatter aero tubing. The rider is stretched out, long and low, across the length of the bike. Some competitive female riders have suggested that increased flexibility allows women an advantage in adopting this aggressive riding position.

Sometimes, parts that would be otherwise separate on most bikes, are integrated together.

Brake and gear cables are usually internally routed through the frame, or at least recessed into it to reduce wind resistance. This has the extra perk of improving aesthetics.

In short, aero bikes suit speed-freaks; racers and sprinters. Be wary that the image of a tucked-in sprinter is alluring, but unless this is your main aim, these bikes might be unsuitable or uncomfortable riding over long distances.

Endurance bikes are more focused on comfort than their racing counterparts. Because they’re used over distances, they are designed with a more relaxed geometry that gives the rider a relatively upright stance. As lightning-fast handling is less important, the endurance bike is instead, honed toward increased stability.

In recent years, disc brakes have become the standard. Another new development is the emergence of vibration damping technologies, which will be discussed in more detail later in this article.

As tire volumes have increased, so have frame clearances for this extra rubber. Modern tire sizes are reaching 30-33mm in diameter.

Compact drivetrains are the norm for endurance – and will be detailed below. While drivetrains differ from aero and lightweight bikes, groupsets, wheelsets and materials remain similar.

While most entry-level road bikes can be placed in the endurance camp, not all high-end bikes are aero and lightweight climbers. Endurance bikes also have their place in the top-tier of high-priced machines.

These bikes aim for the most efficient approach to climbing hills. This results in the pursuit of the lowest weight possible. While this might result in a bike that feels incredibly fast, they do not outpace a precision aero bike. Frame tubes on an aero bike are usually larger than those on climbing rigs, which adds some weight.

For climbing bikes, the hill is a bigger enemy than the wind. For this reason, climbing bikes focus on low weight and stiffness. A stiff bike is needed to ensure that pedaling effort isn’t wasted through lateral flex – and that all possible energy is relayed into forward motion when tackling ascents.

Ideally, they are nimble, lively and smooth. A climbing bike will likely be more compliant than an aero bike, as tubes are rounder and better at absorbing road vibration.

Other characteristics exclusive to climbing bikes, include shorter headtubes and particularly short chainstays and wheelbases. These factors combine to give the feeling of more responsiveness when standing or leaning with one’s weight further over the front wheel.

Compact drivetrains are more common on a climbing bike, where a compact 50-34 tooth chainring set-up is the standard. This means the bike has two chainrings; the larger sports 50 teeth while the smaller has 34.

This is often combined with a cassette that features cogs with a spread of 11 to 34 teeth. A drivetrain with this kind of gearing provides easier-pedaling gears that are more suited to climbing.

Pure climbing and lightweight bikes become available around $3000 to $5000, depending on the manufacturer. At this price point, road bikes leave the ‘all-rounder’ field and start to branch off into their specialized subcategories; aerodynamic, lightweight, and endurance.

Of course, there will be high-end climbing models that ask prices far in excess of this. You can pay as much as your heart desires.

Lightweight Bikes

While not all lightweight bikes are specifically tuned for climbing, they share many similar attributes. Some all-round racing bikes might be lightweight, as are those used by professional peloton riders.

Some ultra-lightweight and featherweight bikes are actually too light to be legally used in competition. These machines are often passion projects, built and used by members of the public. As such, they are not restricted to the minimum weight of 6.8kg (15lbs), as recognized by the Union Cycliste International .

The Union Cycliste International is the international cycling federation that sets and governs regulations. Manufacturers are building production bikes outside of competition and achieving weights below 11lbs. Private enthusiasts have successfully completed construction of a sub-6lb bike.

Flat-Bar Road Bikes

There isn’t a huge difference between a standard road bike and a true flat-bar road bike. Gear shifting and the position of brake levers are clearly different. There are also limitations on the stances and hand-positions available to the rider.

The main draw of these bikes is the desire for an upright and visible stance without any compromise in weight or performance. A majority of users are commuters who wish to stay alert and seen in traffic, while maintaining high speeds and agile handling.

Road bike frames are predominately made from aluminum alloys or carbon fiber. High-end steels and titanium are seen in boutique and bespoke bicycles. Rarer materials include magnesium, bamboo and even hardwoods.

Entry-level road bikes are almost exclusively aluminum. As prices increase, the quality of aluminum alloys improves and entry-level carbon frames become affordable. At even higher price-points; carbon fiber improves in quality, high-end steel enters the fray. Across all of these frame materials, there are general attributes that change with cost.

As prices go up, weight goes down. Frames become stiffer and more durable. As forks are often made of a different, lighter material than the frame, this material should also improve with higher costs.

Generalizations are best avoided, in reference to the qualities of particular materials. While it can be said that aluminum transfers more vibration than carbon fiber, it’s also true that there is a range of aluminum alloys used in frame-building. These frames are also built using a range of methods, each with its own qualities.

The same can be said of carbon fiber and steel. There are a multiplicity of construction methods used to make carbon tubing – as there are also many different steel ‘recipes’. Each of these methods, alloys, and treatments possess their own qualities, strengths, and weaknesses.

Carbon Fiber

A high ‘stiffness to weight ratio’ is one of the qualities most sought-after by frame-builders. Carbon fiber presents the best example of this. At professional levels, it is ubiquitous. It’s strong, stiff and light. It can also be fine-tuned using incremental adjustments in the construction process.

Frame shapes are not restricted to straight or bent lengths of tubing. Unorthodox shaping is also unlikely to affect resilience or durability, as compared to other materials.

This malleability also allows for increased aerodynamic shaping, as frames can be molded around wheels or components seamlessly integrated.

Due to its tendency toward stiffness and ability to be aerodynamically shaped, carbon fiber is favored by racers and sprinters.

At the lowest possible price bracket for road bikes; from $650 to $1400 , both aluminum and carbon fiber frames are available. However, it’s likely that an aluminum frame will present better value for money than basic carbon.

Carbon fiber bikes can usually be found for prices above $1400 . At over $2000, it accounts for a majority of frames sold.

Above $2800, the quality of carbon fiber improves markedly. You’ll find that some of the best road bikes available will employ specially engineered types of carbon. This includes Cannondale’s ‘Ballistec’ technology and EPS (Expandable Polystyrene System), as used on Rondo’s HVRT.

One downside to carbon fiber is the fact that, in the rare event that it should crack, repairers are scarce and charge high prices.

Aluminum Alloys

Most road cyclists enter the sport with a bike made from some form of Aluminum alloy. Because it is easier to work and form, it’s offered at lower prices and is ideal for the budget-conscious. There is a range of aluminum alloys used for frames – and these vary in quality and performance.

It’s often less forgiving than carbon fiber or steel. For this reason, it’s regularly coupled with a carbon fiber fork and possibly seatpost, to increase compliance.

Under $650, a dirt-cheap ‘road bike’ will be made from aluminum or low-quality steel. The fork may also be aluminum, or carbon fiber with an aluminum steerer.

At entry-level, between $650 and $1400 , it presents a more favorable option than basic carbon fiber. Compared to a carbon fiber bike at the same price, an aluminum frame will be coupled with superior components. Like carbon fiber, it is lightweight and stiff.

At $1400 to $2800, expect to see a high-end aluminum frame with a carbon fiber fork. A disadvantage of aluminum is that it can crack – and when it does – it’s often considered unfeasibly expensive to repair.

Titanium is a rarity in the road bike world, but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t have its own allure. It’s durable, resistant to corrosion and light. That’s why it’s popular in the aerospace industry.

One of the downsides of titanium is that it’s rarer than steel, as a raw material. It’s also difficult to work and shape. This ultimately gives it a high price that relegates it to high-end custom frames and boutique builders.

Steel has been the mainstay of bicycle frame construction since the 1800s. It is affordable and easy to source. There is a multitude of tubing types available that allow the frame-builder to customize the feel and ride of the bike. This may cause some confusion as to the quality and weight of this material.

Low-end frames are usually constructed from ‘Hi-Tensile’ or ‘Hi-Ten’ steel. This material does not benefit from the qualities of additional alloys. It is the cheapest, heaviest and weakest type of steel frame. If you see a ‘road bike’ for sale at a price that seems too good to be true (roughly $650 and under ), it’s most likely ‘Hi-Ten’.

‘Chromoly’ refers to a type of steel that is alloyed with chromium and molybdenum to decrease weight and increase strength. It is the most common type of steel used on higher quality and bespoke bikes. Some manufacturers will attribute numbers to tubing types (ie 725, 853) that indicate heat treatment.

It’s important to understand the difference between the two most common steel types. Hi-Ten will be seen on bikes that are too heavy to be ridden in a racing or performance capacity.

Chromoly frames, while heavier than carbon fiber, are resilient and forgiving. Bespoke frames may cost as much as $5000 or more.

High-end steels are relatively expensive and easier to work or join by hand. They are also heavier than carbon fiber and many aluminum frames. As such, it is no longer the dominant material used for road bikes. Even so, it offers desirable comfort, aesthetics, and resilience. It will deform before failing and is repairable. For these reasons, handcrafted steel retains a strong following.

Road bike components are highly specialized. They are intended to be light and precise. These components have been refined over the last 150 years, during road cycling’s existence as an organised sport.

Drivetrains

A ‘groupset’ consists of the brakes and drivetrain of a bike. The ‘drivetrain’ is made up of cranks, chainrings, a chain, the cassette, derailleurs, and shifters.

Most road bikes have a similar drivetrain, using two chainrings on a front derailleur. By chain, these drive 11 cogs on a rear cassette that is attached to the hub of the rear wheel.

For bikes under $1300, the number of cogs may decrease to 10, 9 or 8. This results in fewer available speeds and larger gaps between them. Shifting will be clunkier than on an 11-cog cassette and will affect the rider’s cadence.

When it comes to brand names, there are three companies that represent a majority of quality drivetrains on road bikes. These are Shimano, SRAM, and Campagnolo. Shimano is found on bikes at all price points, while SRAM is found on mid to high-range groupsets. Campagnolo is pricier and found on high-end bikes.

Most commonly, modern road bikes have two chainrings .

On older road bike models, triple chainrings were more common. While these provide ample gears for climbing, they increase weight and feature duplicated ratios. They are found on new bikes at the heavier, lower-end of the road bike market.

Increasingly, single chainring drivetrains (often written as ‘1x’ ), are appearing on road bikes. With the emergence of 12 and even 13-cog cassettes, the range offered is increased. Meanwhile, weight and complication is shed by jettisoning the front derailleur.

Drivetrains are often supplied as part of a complete groupset. As the price of a drivetrain increases, so does that drivetrain’s efficiency, durability, and shifting performance. Concurrently, weight drops.

The quality of a drivetrain is reflected in the material that composes its parts. Entry-level groupsets are mostly low-grade aluminum and steel. This moves up to higher-grade alloys at mid-range and the highest-grade alloys, along with titanium and carbon fiber at the highest price points.

When we talk of ‘gearing’, we are referring to the ratios provided by the sizes of specified chainrings and cassettes. Depending on the intended purpose and sub-category of the road bike, gearing ratios will vary.

Two chainrings are the current norm on road bikes. The common original specification consisted of 10 speeds, gained from two chainrings and a 5-cog cassette (2×5). This has evolved toward a double chainring running 9 to 12 cogs. The most prevalent setup is 2×11.

When buying a road bike, you may well come across mention of ‘semi-compact’, ‘compact’, or ‘standard’ cranksets. The ‘crankset’ refers to the combination of the chainrings and cranks. The above terms refer to the sizes of chainrings, as they are specified with one another and certain cassettes. ‘Chainset’ is the British nomenclature. All of these cranksets use two chainrings.

A standard crankset consists of a large 53-tooth chainring and a smaller 39-tooth chainring. This offers larger gears for higher speeds and is usually used by racers and professional riders.

Compact cranksets are usually made up of a large 50 tooth and smaller 34 tooth chainring. This provides easier pedaling ratios and can assist with climbing ability.

Semi-compact cranksets are increasing in popularity. They still offer a wide range of gears but rely more on the rider’s ability on climbs. This set-up is made of a large 52-tooth chainring coupled with a smaller 36-tooth.

Single chainrings have become the standard on mountain bikes in the last decade. This popularity first spread to gravel and cyclocross bikes – and is now being seen on road bikes. Advantages appear in the form of weight-shedding and simplicity. The front derailleur is done away with.

As technologies advance, cassettes with a greater number of cogs have been made available. By increasing rear cogs to 12 and even 13, the range offered is similar to that found on systems with double chainrings.

At present, most affordable 1x drivetrains use 11 or 12 cogs and will have larger jumps between gears than on a 2x system. Technology keeps progressing, however. A 1×13 groupset has just come to market but requires a specialized hub. The system is sold as a complete wheelset, between $2800 and $4900.

The triple chainring crankset is all but dead on the modern road bike. It is found on heavy and cheap budget models, using remnant technology and stock. It’s mainly used for touring and recreation. The standard setup consists of a 50-tooth large, 39-tooth medium, and 30 tooth small chainring.

When you are looking at the specifications of a new road bike, under the category ‘cassette’ or ‘sprocket’, there will be a description akin to ‘11-28t’ or ‘11-30t’. On an ‘11-30t’ cassette, the smallest cog features 11 teeth. The largest has 30.

On 2×11 drivetrains, the smallest cog often has 11 teeth. Depending on what the road bike is used for, the largest cog will have 25 to 34 teeth. 11-28t cassettes are abundant on race bikes. On an endurance bike, a larger cog with more teeth is more likely. ‘11-34t’ is common.

Ideally, the range of cogs on a cassette will offer a spread that caters to a smooth transition across gears. Laterally, the chain has to move further when there is a bigger difference between the smallest and largest cogs. This may reduce the rider’s cadence (consistent pedaling speed) when changing gears.

For most applications besides racing, smaller chainrings are combined with larger-ratio cassettes to provide a greater spread of gears. For racing, chainrings are relatively larger while the cassette ratio is smaller. This allows for higher gears for faster riding and achieving top speeds.

In general, endurance bikes have larger cassette cogs to reduce the effort required to climb hills. Race bikes may have smaller cogs that combine with a larger chainring to achieve higher top speeds.

Smaller chainrings feature on ‘compact’ cranksets and require less pedaling effort. Larger chainrings require more effort to propel and allow cyclists to attain higher speeds.

Price Points

At the dirt-cheap end of the scale, ‘road bikes’ under $650 will often have a double or triple-chainring and a 7, 8, or 9-speed cassette. This provides 14, 16, 18, 21, 24, or 27 gears offering either plentiful or widely spaced pedaling ratios.

Moving to the $1500 – $3000 price range, most bikes will likely have a double chainring and an 11-speed cassette. This is written as ‘2×11’.

From $3000 to $5000, most drivetrains are 2×11 or 2×12 and will feature enhanced shifting capabilities. At this price, electronic shifting becomes available. Over $5000, shifting is precise and electronic systems are commonplace.

Brakes on road bikes are one of two types; disc brakes or rim brakes.

Rim brakes were the original standard on road bikes. Until very recently, they have remained so. The style of rim brakes used on road bikes are ‘caliper brakes’.

Rim brakes work by squeezing against a prepared surface on the outer edge of the rim. The ‘braking surface’ is prepared by being machined or textured to increase traction and adherence.

One of the advantages of rim brakes is that they are easy to maintain and adjust without professional assistance. High-end rim brakes are also unobtrusive and lightweight. On the downside, the stopping power of caliper brakes doesn’t come close to that of discs, especially in wet weather.

On bikes under $650, cheap and heavy rim brakes are the only choice. However, there are still high-performance rim brakes available on high-end bikes.

Until very recently, caliper brakes were the universal choice for race bikes. But this is changing fast – as technology changes to allow for the move to…

Disc Brakes

While disc brakes have already found purchase as the standard amongst mountain bikers, numerous concerns left them relegated to the off-road world… until very recently.

Initially, road cyclists were wary of disc brakes, as their sudden stopping power delivered a somewhat harsher ride. In addition, they were heavier than lightweight caliper brakes, produced noise, and presented penalties to aerodynamics.

With refinements in design and technology, all of these factors have been reduced to a negligible level. They are now being adopted at an increasing rate, due to their many benefits.

These benefits include more consistent performance in all weather conditions and better control (leading to greater confidence and minimal brake-heat-induced problems for rims, tubes, and tires). Rims are not worn down so wheels last longer. In addition, tire clearance is increased for the use of wider rubber.

Discs are appearing on many new endurance bikes. It’s important to realize that most bikes are made for either rim brakes or discs, and cannot be converted. Once you make your decision, you’re stuck with it for as long as you ride that bike.

There are two kinds of disc brakes available; mechanical and hydraulic . Disc brakes use a cable attached to a caliper, that’s mounted to the frame or fork.

On mechanical discs this is operated in a similar way to a rim brake, where pulling the brake lever pulls on a cable. This in turn applies the caliper to a rotor in the center of the wheel, creating braking force. Mechanical brakes are less powerful than hydraulics but are cheaper and easier to maintain.

Hydraulic disc brakes exceed mechanical discs in performance and function. They work by utilizing brake fluid, which is activated at a master cylinder located in the brake lever. When activated, this fluid is pushed through a hose and onto the brake caliper. The pressure of the fluid operates pistons in the caliper and clamps the brake pads onto the rotor.

While hydraulic brakes are superior in function, they are more expensive than mechanical discs. They are also more difficult and expensive to repair and maintain. On road bikes between $3000 and $5000, you can expect to have a range of hydraulic-equipped bikes to choose from.

Whether you choose rim brakes or discs; mechanical or hydraulic, it’s important to be comfortable with your levers as well as the brakes themselves. Advice from female experts suggests that women should pay special attention to choosing appropriate hoods and brake levers, as many are designed for larger hands.

A good set of wheels should be resilient and lightweight. Stiffness is favored for an efficient transfer of power, along with reliable hubs that operate smoothly. They should also be set up to provide for confident braking.

The recent move to wider tires has been reflected in the increased width of wheel rims. Proponents suggest that wider rims improve aerodynamics. In combination with wider, bigger-volume tires, they also contribute to increased comfort.

Rim depth can also influence ride quality. Most aero bikes will use deep-section wheels, which clearly aid aerodynamic ability. A drawback of aero wheels is that they are more subject to crosswinds and subsequent lateral movement.

It’s important to know how a set of wheels affects the cost of a new bike. As a general rule, your wheels can possess any two of the following characteristics:

Cheaper road bike wheels are made from aluminum, moving up to carbon fiber at higher prices. At these higher prices, your money also buys you superior-quality hub bearings with increased durability. Comfort should also improve with cost.

Under $650, a ‘road bike’ will most likely have heavy wheels. The best that can be hoped for from wheels like these, is that they are tough. They can always be upgraded later to shed weight and increase the liveliness of your bike.

From $1500 to $3000, higher performance features come into play. At this price, bikes may feature deep profile wheels. Although there is a decent range in materials and quality in this price range, weight should show a marked decrease, while carbon fiber rims may become affordable.

Between $3000 and $5000, wheelsets are lightweight and aerodynamic. Carbon-fiber or high-end alloys are used in their construction. Above $5000, wheels are almost exclusively carbon fiber.

Traditionally, road bike tires have been narrow and sat between 23mm and 25mm in circumference. While they remain narrower than tires on bikes of other disciplines, the recent trend has definitely been toward increases in width and volume. Race tires may now be as wide as 28mm, while endurance tires are reaching 30-33mm in circumference.

Recent research hints at benefits relating to wider, lower-pressure tires that hold greater volumes of air. Previously, it was thought that the decreased pressure would lessen performance. However, there is now evidence that fatter rubber is more supple and offers less rolling resistance – which can only lead to higher speeds.

Fatter tires provide more comfort and traction, as well as a form of subtle suspension or inbuilt compliance. This is especially useful for endurance riding. In the past, caliper rim brakes limited the potential width of fitted tires to as little as 28mm. Now, with an abundance of lightweight disc brakes becoming popular on road bikes, this barrier has been removed.

All road bikes are provisioned with slick or semi-slick tires, to keep rolling-resistance at a minimum. If you wish to fit wider tires to your road bike, you need to ensure that the frame is built with ample clearance. Don’t be too concerned if the tires on your new bike aren’t ideal. They are one of the easiest elements to swap out.

As a general rule, race bikes favoring aerodynamics will skew toward skinnier tires. Endurance bikes seek more comfort and tend toward greater width, which also allows for greater speeds over uneven surfaces.

Three Main Types of Tires

Clincher tires use an inner tube and are much more common than other types. If your tube gets punctured, you will need to carry a spare tube or puncture repair kit to fix or replace it.

Tubular tires are designed with the professional racer in mind. They consist of a tire that is sewn together with a tube inside. They are then adhered to the wheel rim with a glue that must be allowed to dry overnight. If not correctly glued, tires may roll off rims and cause an accident.

While they’re slightly lighter than clinchers, riders must carry an entire replacement tire in the event of a puncture. Good quality tubular tires are costly, while cheap versions are lumpy and uneven. For these reasons, tubular tires are relegated to the realms of professional racers with the luxury of a support crew.

Tubeless tire technology has been the automotive standard for the last fifty years. It’s popular amongst mountain bikers and has recently become popular on road bikes. In very simple terms, a tubeless tire is a clincher without an internal tube. The rim must be airtight, as a tubeless tire seals directly to the wheel rim.

In order to use tubeless tires, rims must be either ‘tubeless-ready’ or ‘true tubeless’ . A true tubeless system uses rims without spoke holes in the inner wall. The more common ‘tubeless-ready’ systems require a slimy sealant to create the initial seal and to guard against small punctures.

Benefits include reduced weight and long-term resistance to punctures. A drawback of tubeless systems is that they are fiddly to repair, especially on the road.

Saddle comfort is highly subjective. Many buyers of a new road bike will change the saddle before upgrading any other part. If the stock seat isn’t right for you, try a few out before settling on one. Take long-distance comfort into consideration (if you’re riding endurance) and also long-term reproductive health.

Women and men sometimes hold varying concerns when it comes to saddles. Female sit-bone width is generally wider than that of men. That said, some men’s saddles are suitable for some women.

Pedals are another component that is usually customized. Many road bikes do not come with pedals – or else they come with makeshift pedals that are intended to be temporary. Most road cyclists will use cycling shoes and a corresponding set of ‘clipless’ pedals.

Clipless pedals assist with control, cadence and climbing on the upstroke.

To avoid confusion, the older ‘toe-clip’ pedals were known as ‘clips’. As a result, modern pedals that forgo these ‘overshoe clips’ are known as ‘clipless’ , even though cycling shoes ‘clip in’ to the pedal.

Suspension?

At the top of the article, we said that one of the distinguishing features of road bikes is that they don’t have suspension. It’s possible that this situation is changing. Recently, production models of road bikes have emerged that incorporate vibration-absorbance and dampening systems. Coined ‘micro-suspension’ , it’s more likely to see these systems appearing on endurance bikes.

These systems include elastomer springs, hydraulic dampers and frame tubes that are not welded, but attached by a flexible system of bushings and bearings. Sometimes elastomers are incorporated into frame tubing. In other models, small suspension systems are embedded in the headtube or seatstays. Electronic calibration is often allied to these mechanisms.

The amount of ‘travel’ in suspension refers to the maximum distance ‘traveled’ by the shock when it fully compresses. On a mountain bike , this usually sits between a range of 80mm and 200mm. On an endurance road bike, suspension travel might be as little as 10mm. These systems are intended to provide subtle relief from long-term exposure to standard road vibration.

In the current climate, there are no hard and fast technological standards for road bike suspension. Many of these systems are innovative and experimental. It seems that, these days, there is less of a taboo surrounding dampening on road bikes and that interest in these systems is on the increase.

It’s more important to get the fit of a road bike right, than it is for a casually-used commuter. As road bikes are aimed toward performance or endurance, the correct fit may make the difference between winning a race or making it to the finish line without undue discomfort.

High-end bike stores will have fitting professionals that can take your measurements and ascertain the proportions of your ideal bike. This has the benefit of narrowing down your shortlist of suitable bikes.

Race bikes are designed with geometry that places the rider in a low-profile, stretched-out position with more weight over the front wheel. You might find this type of road bike more suitable if this posture matches your body type.

Conversely, endurance bikes favor a more upright stance with less weight over the front wheel. Any bike with a poor fit will be uncomfortable and most likely, discouraging. A cheaper bike with the right fit is a better ride than a mis-sized top-end machine.

You may come across ‘fit charts’ on manufacturer websites or elsewhere online. It’s advisable that, as a first-time road-bike purchaser, you don’t rely solely on these. Once you have been fit at a bike store – and have become familiar with your sizing, it will become easier and safer to purchase online. This is one of the risks of direct online sales.

It’s important to get the right size frame. After this though, it’s vital to adjust saddle and handlebar heights. Handlebar reach and angle are also important considerations.

Women will have particular concerns relating to reach, as smaller hands may mean that regular bars and levers are outsized. One expert suggests that older style handlebars of the 1980s and 90s are more comfortable.

In any event, a bike that is too big can not be adjusted to fit. A frame that is a little too small may be adjusted to fit by extending stems, seatpoles, and cranks. It’s safest to get professionally fit and avoid the guesswork altogether.

From $200 to $7000, you can buy a bicycle with the physical attributes of a road bike. Anything for less than $650 is probably more suited to recreational riding than racing. If parts are durable they are likely too heavy for racing.

Between $1500 and $3000; performance bikes, with authentic race geometry, become attainable. Weight goes down as speeds go up. Endurance bikes may feature improved features relating to comfort.

Heading up to $5000 and bikes experience considerable weight loss. Above this price, improvements are incremental and largely subject to personal preference. Bikes over $7000 will be customized, bespoke, or perhaps a replica of a professional race rig.

A good road bike doesn’t have to be exorbitant. $800 buys a decent entry-level steed. Anything over $1250 is probably beyond the needs of a beginner. The best bikes under $2500 are serious machines that can be raced with confidence. A recent change is that bikes under $3200 are now as likely to be endurance bikes as they are to be dedicated race bikes.

It’s useful to know some of the main factors that affect cost. Aluminum is cheaper, less comfortable and generally, heavier. Carbon is lighter, more comfortable, and more expensive. Parts and wheels will be strong and cheap at lower prices but add significantly to the overall price as they become lightweight.

Direct Sales

If buying a bike online seems like a cheaper alternative to buying in stores, it most probably is. When you buy directly from the manufacturer, the overall cost is reduced by cutting out the middleman.

Good online bike retailers will pre-assemble as much as 80% to 95% of your bike before shipping and will provide the tools required for the remaining adjustments.

Local Bike Store

Your local bike store (or “L.B.S.”) will usually offer you a warranty deal and minor servicing for free within the first few weeks of purchase.

With either choice, there are benefits and drawbacks.

When researching your prospective bike, you can look at online reviews by both customers and experts. Video reviews can also provide a well-needed visual element for understanding the perks and drawbacks of a model.

Don’t restrict yourself to promotional material made by the manufacturer. Buyers and experts also make videos that aren’t subject to monetary influence.

Other sources for reviews include magazines, websites, blogs, forums, and the comments sections attached to online reviews.

Always consider your budgetary limitations and the terrain that is available to you. Stay fast to your original intentions and try not to be swayed by a handsome machine. Fight the temptation to give in to current bicycle fashions, because they always change quickly. A good road bike could last you decades.

The world of road bikes can get expensive and serious. Stay true to your own needs. It can be difficult to remember that some of the best factors of road cycling are not those that relate to equipment. Sometimes, the best parts of road cycling are those that include camaraderie, invigorating exercise and of course… the road!

• Have questions about which bike to choose? Ask in our Forum .
• Want to win a bike instead of buying one? See our bike Giveaway .
• Find out more about BikeRide .
• Jackie Ruff, Gears – Math in Context
• Sheldon Brown, Frame Materials for the Touring Cyclist
• Sheldon Brown, Sheldon Brown’s Bicycle Glossary
• John Allen, Tubeless Bicycle Tires
• Antranik Kizirian, World’s Lightest Road Bike at 2.7kg
• The Exploratorium, Frames & Materials
• Rotor, Did You Know 2×11=14?
• Robert Cobcroft, Bicycle Compliance
• BikeExchange, Understanding Bike Geometry Charts: What They Mean and How To Read Them
• Jack Luke, Rotor 1×13 Hydraulic Groupset
• Ben Delaney, What Is a Compact Crank?
• Caz Whitehead, Buying a Road Bike: A Women’s Guide
• Patrick Hutchison, Types of Steel Bicycle Frames
• Benedict Pfender, The Ultimate Guide to Frame Materials: What’s Best for Bikes?
• Mat Brett, 7 Bump-Taming Road Bikes That Help Stop Your Hands and Bum Getting Battered
• Mat Brett, Suffering on the Hills? Find Out How to Get Lower Gears to Make Climbing Easier

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How to Plan a Bicycle Road Trip

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This is going to be an amazing year! I’ve already cycled across Poland, Ukraine and half of Romania . Now I’m taking a short rest break in the beautiful city of Brasov, Romania … and in about two weeks time I’ll begin a 3-month-long bicycle tour across Romania, Serbia, Bosnia and Herzegovina , Denmark, Norway and Sweden.

This is my 15th year in a row of my bicycle touring all around the world… and I absolutely love my life/job as the Bicycle Touring Pro – traveling the world and helping people like you plan, prepare for, and execute their own guided, self-guided and self-supported bicycle touring adventures.

In this article I’m going to use my upcoming bike tour across Europe as a planning example… and I’ll share with you how I pick my travel destinations, how I plan out safe and enjoyable cycle touring routes, how I’ve broken my 3-month-long bike tour down into smaller (more manageable) segments, how I program my entire bike tour onto my smartphone so I can easily navigate once I hit the road, plus… a whole lot more.

STEP 1: Decide Where You Want To Go

This is the most important part of planning a bike tour. You’ve got to pick a destination for your travels based on the places that interest YOU most. Don’t just pick a place for a bike tour because you heard it was a good place to ride… or because you know someone else who has been there. Pick a part of the world you are interested in… and that’s where you should go!

The reason I’ve decided to cycle across Serbia, Bosnia, Demark, Norway and Sweden this summer is because these are five European countries that I’ve never been to before. As someone with more than 15+ years of bicycle touring experience, I’ve cycled in a number of amazing places all around the world, so going somewhere new is what appeals to me now.

I want to cycle across Serbia, Bosnia, Denmark, Norway and Sweden because these are five new countries for me to explore, but also because it means knocking off five more countries on my list of 34 countries I have already cycled across in Europe. Can you believe that? I’ve already cycled across 34 European countries… and by the end of this summer I will have cycled across 39 European countries. That’s pretty wild!

STEP 2: Break Your Bike Tour Down Into Smaller Segments

Please note: This portion of the article was updated after the video at the top of the page was created.

After deciding that I was going to cycle across Romania, Serbia, Bosnia, Denmark, Norway and Sweden, I then began planning a route. But 3-months is a long time to plan… and the distances are quite vast. So, instead of treating my bike tour this summer as one, big, long adventure, I’ve broken my bike tour down into seven, smaller, more manageable segments:

• Brasov, Romania to Tuzla, Bosnia (906+ km)
• Tuzla, Bosnia to Copenhagen, Denmark (BUS TRIP)
• Copenhagen, Denmark to Oslo, Norway (863+ km)
• Self-Guided Bike Tour in Bergen, Norway with Active-Norway.com (325+ km)
• Oslo, Norway to Bergen, Norway (462+ km)
• Self-Guided Bike Tour in Matre , Norway with BergFritid (203+ km)
• Bergen, Norway to Umea, Sweden (1,288+ km)

Brasov, Romania to Tuzla, Bosnia

Watch the video at the top of this page and you’ll see that the first thing I do when planning a bicycle tour through a new country or area is that I begin by searching the Internet for fun, interesting, or unique things to do in the countries/areas I plan to cycle through. I then plot the location of these fun, interesting or unique things onto a map inside the free software, Google Earth .

After I’ve plotted out all the points of interest, a natural line tends to form – stretching from my starting location to the place where I hope to end my bike tour. I then connect the dots and plan out this new route using the website at maps.google.com (pictured above).

Tuzla, Bosnia to Copenhagen, Denmark

The second major segment of my bike tour this summer involves getting myself from Tuzla, Bosnia to Copenhagen, Denmark. Instead of cycling this long segment, I’m going to take a bus. I used the website at www.rome2rio.com to find the cheapest and easiest way to get from Tuzla to Copenhagen and discovered a company that operates super cheap bus rides from Tuzla to Copenhagen every single Sunday. I marked down the date of the Snuday that works best for me in my calendar, contacted the bus company to make sure they’d be able to transport my bicycle (they can!), and wrote to the bus company asking for a reservation.

Copenhagen, Denmark to Oslo, Norway

The third leg of my trip involves cycling from Copenhagen, Denmark to Oslo, Norway… in time to reach my friend Eric who is going to be flying into Oslo, Norway on July 20th. This means that I will have a little less than two weeks to cycle from Copenhagen to Oslo. I could go the faster and cheaper way… by taking the bridge over to Sweden and then cycling north from there to Oslo. But that wouldn’t give me a much time in Denmark. And because I’ve never been to Denmark before, and I’d like to see at least a little bit of the country while I’m there, I’ve decided to take the longer, more expensive route – traveling west from Copenhagen, then north to the top of the country, where I will have to take a ferry to the bottom tip of Norway, and then cycle from there to Oslo.

A Self-Guided Bike Tour in Bergen, Norway with Active-Norway.com

Once in Oslo, I’ll meet my friend Eric at the airport… and we will travel together (via the train) from Oslo to the nearby city of Bergen, Norway. Once in Bergen, we’re going to be participating in not ONE, but TWO, back-to-back, self-guided bicycle tours with Active-Norway.com .

The two bike tours that we’ll be participating in are the Sunnhordland by Bike and Boat tour… and the Biking Hardangerfjord self-guided bike tour.

During these two self-guided bicycle tours, Eric and I will be bicycling on our own, without a guide, through some of Norway’s most scenic mountains, coastlines, hills and fjords. Throughout the bike tour we’ll be staying and dining in hotels, guesthouses and cabins that Active-Norway has arranged for us in advance. It should be amazing… and we are both really looking forward to the experience!

This will be Eric’s first time in Europe and his first bicycle tour ever, so this is going to be an incredible experience for my old high-school/college friend… and I look forward to sharing the joys of bicycle travel with him.

Plus, the great thing about doing this bike tour with Active-Norway is that we simply show up for the start of the tour, there will be bikes waiting for us, all the details of the tour are taken care for us in advance, and our only job is to follow the tour itinerary provided for us, arrive at our hotels/guesthouses each night, and generally enjoy the overall experience. It’s going to be a blast… and I’m really looking forward to it!

Oslo, Norway to Bergen, Norway

After the bike tour with Eric and Active-Norway is over, Eric and I will take the train back to Oslo, where we will meet my friend Rob, who will be flying in that day from Canada. The three of us will stay in Oslo for the night and participate in a 3-hour-long bike guided bicycle tour the following afternoon with www.vikingbiking.com .

During this 3-hour bike tour with Viking Biking, we will be escorted around Oslo on car-free bike paths, through parks, hidden back streets, and along the nearby fjord. We’ll discover all of the major city sites in a fun and relaxed manner: the old castle Akershus Festning; the City Hall (home of the Nobel Peace Prize ceremony); the main street of Karl Johans Gate and the Royal Palace; Vigeland Sculpture Park; and finally along the modern harbor of Tjuvholmen/Aker Brygge. What better way explore a new Scandinavian country… than by bicycle!

As soon as the Oslo bike tour is over, Eric will run off to the airport in preparation for his flight back to the United States, and Rob and I will continue on our own, out of the city, and back to Bergen on our bicycles.

This will be my 4th bike tour with Rob. We met a few years ago during a guided bicycle tour in Switzerland with Bike Switzerland . And since then we have gone on two additional bicycle tours together: a week-long self-guided bicycle tour in the Loire Valley (France)… and a self-supported bicycle camping tour in Finland last summer. This year we plan to spend another week cycling together, traveling from Oslo, to Bergen. It’s nice to have friends who also like to ride bikes!

The Fjord Cycling Route Bike Tour

Then, on the 10th of August, my friend Katelyn will fly into Bergen and we’ll begin a five-day bicycle tour through the Sogne fjord region north of Bergen, Norway. But we won’t be doing this tour on our own. Instead, we’ll be participating in the self-guided Fjord Cycling Route bike tour with BergFitid .

During this unique bicycle touring experience we’ll get to experience all of what Fjord Norway has to offer in the way of narrow valleys, fjords and majestic mountains. The tour includes bike rental (incl. bike bag, helmet, lights and tool kit), info pack (overview map, info and hiking maps for Masfjorden), 5 nights accomodation with breakfast, packed lunch and dinner, as well as entrance to the Bjorn West Museum. Plus, the entire route is on paved roads, so it’s a great tour for bicycle touring beginners.

This will be Katelyn’s first bike tour ever, so it will be fun to have her join the adventure and see what she thinks about self-guided bicycle touring. I have a feeling she is going to love it!

Bergen, Norway to Umea, Sweden

During the last leg of my bike tour this year I’ll be traveling by myself, carrying all my own clothing, food, camping equipment, etc… and camping in the forests each night. I’ll bathe in the local lakes, use the Internet at local libraries, and generally be living off the land. Starting in Bergen, Norway, I’ll cycle north… on my own… until I get to Umea, Sweden, which is where my Scandinavian adventure will come to an end.

Once I get to Umea, Sweden, I’ll pack up my bicycle and prepare for the long flight back to Los Angeles, California – where I plan to visit with my parents for about a month or so before I continue on to Central America for even more bicycle touring adventures later this year.

STEP 3: Transfer Your Route Details Into Your Smartphone

So, once I had all that planned out on Google Maps, I simply saved the routes I wished to take on my bicycle as 4 separate files (1. Brasov, Romania to Tuzla, Norway 2. Copenhagen, Denmark to Oslo, Norway 3. Oslo, Norway to Bergen, Norway 4. Bergen, Norway to Umea, Sweden) and I email those files to myself. Then, on my smartphone, I open those Google Map files and they are instantly transferred into the offline mapping application I use on my phone to navigate while I’m cycling – MAPS.ME

This is a really simply offline mapping applications that allows you to see where you are anywhere in the world and figure out where you need to go… without having a need to access the Internet (like you would need to do with the Google Maps app or a similar online mapping application). The app allows you to download the data for any country in the world… in advance. Once you have that data downloaded (and the route you wish to take saved to your phone), you don’t need access to the Internet any longer. Simply use your phone or tablet’s free GPS tracking feature and you’ll be able to quickly and easily navigate from where you are to where you need to be. It’s that simple!

How to Plan a Bicycle Road Trip – Conclusion

So, that’s how I’ve planned my 3-month-long bicycle tour across Romania, Serbia, Bosnia, Denmark, Norway and Sweden this summer. I started by researching the areas I was most interested in visiting and I plotted out those points of interest on the map of the world using Google Earth. Then I broke my bicycle tour down into smaller, more manageable segments. I then used Google Maps to create a route plan for each of those small segments of my trip. I emailed those map files to my smartphone… and using the MAPS.ME application, I was able to save the route plan for my entire bike tour to my smartphone! Now everything I need to know about my bike tour this summer is saved in my phone… and I’m ready to hit the road.

To learn more about how to plan a bicycle road trip, be sure to read this article about route planning … and then grab a copy of The Bicycle Touring Blueprint – the world’s best book about planning, preparing for, and executing a self-supported bicycle tour.

Norway photo by: Victor Velez

Darren Alff

My goal as the "Bicycle Touring Pro" is to give you the confidence and inspiration you need to travel by bicycle anywhere in the world. I'm here to help you plan, prepare for, and execute your first bike tour and remove all the guesswork, wasted time and frustration that plagues so many first-time bicycle travelers.

6 thoughts on “ How to Plan a Bicycle Road Trip ”

I’ve purchased your Blueprint book, online. In creating ‘google maps’, I’d go to ‘google.com’ and key in ‘from: Las Vegas to: … to: … to: …’ , click on ‘Maps’ and get a map like you have in section 2. I’d get all the key points and cue sheets of how to get there. There must have been some change. Now, all the web addresses I saved changed. Now, one must go to ‘https://maps.google.com/maps?output=classi’ link, where I’d enter ‘from: Las Vegas to: … to: … to: …’. Is there a different way to get to the older map? The new way goes to ‘enter starting pt.’ then to ‘end pt’. I want the old.

Yeah, Google Maps is constantly changing their design/functionality. I liked the old Google Maps better and I’m not sure why they changed it so that multiple points along a route are so difficult to enter. Sorry about that. Ugh.

I recommend, better that Google Maps is to use Open Street Map (OSM): — https://www.openstreetmap.org

First, you can download all the maps (ps, all Europe or choose per country) and use it in your phone:

– For free, the maps information is free to use – You dont need mobile data service, you can query the maps in offline. Ps, Where is the next restaurant near to your GPS coordinates. – You can also upload new information collected in your trip. – Track your trip progress. – It works in Android and Iphone.

Before to give cero cost publicity to google maps, is good to get more information about Open Street Maps (OSM).

Also, is important to know the free sense of the maps service of the OSM project. For instance you can upload information to Google maps loosing your rights, but you can not download the sources of the data.

So please take a look to : — OsmAnd Maps & Navigation https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.osmand&hl=en

There are more services beyond google maps.

Thanks for your attention,

Very informative. I would be quite interested in how you use AirBnB for short and long term accommodations; your experiences would be very helpful for anyone planning a longer trip such as you are doing and have done. Thanks for all you do. Don

Yes, I will write more about this in the future… and make a video as well (as I am currently staying in an AirBNB apartment in Brasov, Romania). In the meantime, please see this article: http://bicycletouringpro.com/airbnb-coupon-code/

I’m planning the same trip you did from Umea to Nordkapp. I will try to do it in July 2018. The only thing that causes me anxiety is to arrive at a fixed date to my destination and fly back to Spain. I hope everything goes well.

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Best road bikes: A bike for every budget

The best road bikes from value offerings to pro-level rides

• Road bikes under £1000 / $1500
• Road bikes under £2000 / $2500
• Road bikes under £5000 / $6000
• All-rounder race bikes
• Lightweight bikes
• Endurance bikes
• Electric road bikes

If you're looking to choose between the best road bikes, there's a bewildering array of choices.

The best budget road bikes are still very affordable. They're usually endurance all-rounders, but once you look further up manufacturers' ranges you'll usually find bikes designed for different purposes.

There's still an array of endurance bikes at higher prices, but you can also choose between the best lightweight road bikes and the best aero road bikes. It's not a simple choice either; although a lightweight bike may feel livelier, aerodynamics is usually more important if you want to go faster. 

Read our guide on how to choose a road bike if you want more guidance. The best electric road bikes are also an option if you value the assistance of a motor but want a bike that still looks and rides like a road bike.

All road bikes are getting more tyre clearance as well. That means that whereas a few years ago 25mm wide tyres were the norm, many newer bikes, even performance models, will allow you to fit 32mm tyres or wider. 

That makes for a much more comfortable ride without appreciable loss of performance. It also leads to increasing overlap with the best gravel bikes - which often are getting more like road bikes as gravel racing takes off and gravel race bikes become an important category.

Here at Cyclingnews , our job is to test and review bikes, so you can be sure that our selection of the best road bikes below won't let you down. If you want more guidance on how to choose the best road bike for you, there's a useful buyer's guide lower down the page too. 

Best road bikes available today

You can trust Cyclingnews Our experts spend countless hours testing cycling tech and will always share honest, unbiased advice to help you choose. Find out more about how we test.

Best road bikes under £1000 / $1500

If you're looking for a bike in this price range you should be able to find an alloy-framed bike, usually with a carbon fork to help absorb some road chatter that will perform well. You should find one of Shimano's lower spec groupsets, either 8-speed Claris, 9-speed Sora or 10-speed Tiagra, although the best budget road bikes may stretch to middle tier Shimano 105. 

1. Triban RC 520 Disc

Our expert review:

Specifications

Reasons to buy, reasons to avoid.

Decathlon makes some excellent value bikes with well-chosen components. The Triban RC520 Disc is a good example. At a price at which you'd expect to find 8-speed Shimano Claris, you get an 11-speed Shimano 105 groupset with a good gear range from its 50/34-tooth chainset and 11-32-tooth cassette and much smaller jumps than you'd get with Claris.

Not only that, you get disc brakes in the form of TRP HY/RD calipers that are cable operated but with hydraulic actuation for better modulation and power. Decathlon specs a lot of its own brand components including the wheels, which are tubeless-ready.

The bike comes stock with 28mm own-brand tyres, but you can swap these out for rubber up to 36mm wide, which would add an extra dimension of plushness to the already comfortable and relaxed ride. You can add mudguards for all-weather riding and a rack for load-lugging duties.

As you'd expect at this price, the Triban RC520 Disc isn't particularly light, but it's on par with the competition.

Read our full review of the Triban RC520 Disc .

Best road bikes under £2000 / $2500

Spending twice as much cash as the bikes above will get you some significant upgrades - usually a more sophisticated frame, often hydraulic disc brakes and better components. 

You'll still usually find an alloy frame, although carbon fibre will sometimes make an appearance. Don't think that carbon is essential though as quality alloy frames on the best budget bikes can be lighter and ride better than a lower-priced carbon number.

2. Specialized Allez Sport

Specialized's stalwart entry-level alloy road bike comes with a rich history that stretches back for years and it gets some trickle-down tech from the brand's high-end road bikes like an all-carbon fork and a frame with butted tubing to save weight. There are also dropped seat stays and internal cable routing, although we found the bike's design and colour slightly uninspiring.  

The Allez has had an upgrade for the 2024 model year and now includes disc brakes and enough space for 35mm tyres or 32mm tyres with mudguards. We've ridden the higher-spec Allez Sport with 10-speed Shimano Tiagra and hydraulic disc brakes; the base model has a Shimano Claris groupset and mechanical disc brakes.

The range of Specialized components is designed for comfort, like its Body Geometry Bridge saddle and shallow drop bars. Specialized fits its own Axis Sport wheels with 30mm tyres.

There's lots of versatility built into the Allez, with rack and mudguard mounts, so you can use it for the commute or light gravel riding as well as faster recreational rides.

Read our full review of the 2024 Specialized Allez Sport .

3. Giant Contend SL Disc 1

The Contend is Giant's alloy entry-level road bike, but the SL is the top end of the range, with a lightweight frame with Giant's trademark sloping compact geometry, an all-carbon fork and a D-shaped carbon composite seatpost designed to dampen road vibrations. 

It's well-specced, with a Shimano 105 hydraulic disc brake groupset and a wide range cassette that goes down to a 1:1 ratio for easy hill climbing, and is finished with an array of Giant components.

The Contend SL 1 is equipped with a Giant S-R2 Disc alloy wheelset. Tyres are 28mm but Giant says that they measure 30mm on the wide rims and the frame has clearance for 34mm. 

4. Trek Émonda ALR 4

The frameset of the alloy Émonda has a quality look with smooth welds that make it appear to be carbon at first sight. It's also lighter than many carbon framesets at this price point and even ones that are in the next price band above.

This spec of the Émonda ALR headlines with Shimano Tiagra 10-speed shifting and Tiagra hydraulic disc brakes for great shifting and stopping power. There are tubeless-ready Bontrager alloy wheels, although the 28mm wire bead tyres would need a swap-out if you want to set up tubeless.

Other kit includes Bontrager bars and a Bontrager stem that's compatible with its Blendr system, so you can bolt on lights, computers and other accessories.

There's a huge range of frame sizes available, with the Émonda coming in nine sizes from 47cm up to 64cm. 

In April 2023, Trek launched an update to the Émonda ALR range , with aero tube profiles and integrated cabling for an aero boost. 

Best road bikes under £5000 / $6000

Spend this much money on the best road bike and you can expect a high-quality, performance machine. You'll invariably get a carbon frame and fork, often with higher-grade carbon fibre to help keep weight down. 

Many bikes at this price will include a 12-speed electronic groupset, although don't discount mechanical options. You should also find lightweight, carbon wheels with tubeless-ready rims and tyres.

5. Canyon Ultimate CF SL8 Disc Di2

Kitted out with Shimano's latest 12-speed Ultegra Di2 groupset complete with a lightweight, compact power meter from 4iiii, the Ultimate is Canyon's all-rounder lightweight performance bike. The bike's frame is designed for aerodynamics without the all-out aero design of the Canyon Aeroad (see below). The ride position is set for all-day comfort on longer rides, but is still aggressive enough that higher spec Ultimates are ridden by the WorldTour pros.

Canyon bikes usually have great specs for their price and highlights here include Canyon's width-adjustable CP0018 Aerocockpit carbon integrated bar/stem, as fitted to the Aeroad, and a Selle Italia SLR Boost Superflow S saddle.

This spec is equipped with DT Swiss ARC 1400 Dicut db 50mm deep front/62mm rear aero wheels with Continental Grand Prix 5000 25mm front/28mm rear tyres, again quality options that exceed what you often get at bikes at this price.

Read our full review of the Canyon Ultimate CF SLX 8 Di2 . 

Best all-round race bikes

A race bike should do everything well. Expect tuned aerodynamics for more speed on the flat, paired with a light enough ride for efficient climbing and handling that's race-ready while still being predictable enough for all-day riding. You'll want the comfort for long days in the saddle too. 

6. Cannondale SuperSix EVO 4

The fourth generation of the Cannondale SuperSix Evo has had a subtle makeover from its predecessor. The geometry remains the same, but there's a swap from a PressFit bottom bracket to a threaded one. Weight has also dropped a little bit, particularly for the expensive LAB71 bikes.

Cannondale says that its refinements to tube shapes save 12 watts, although at heart the SuperSix Evo remains a climber's bike, despite the Hollowgram wheels not having quite the performance edge of the DT Swiss wheels on the Canyon Ultimate. 

Otherwise, our first ride review bike was fitted out with a separate bar and stem rather than Canondale's more aero one-piece option. Cannondale has upped its paint game, moving on from the underwhelming colours of the last generation.

Read our first ride review of the Cannondale SuperSix Evo 4 .

7. Boardman SLR 8.9

At a price where alloy frames and Shimano Tiagra are the norm, Boardman somehow manages to give you a carbon frame complete with Shimano 105, although this is the rim brake version with the calipers swapped out for Tektro units rather than 105 brakes. There is a model with in-series 105 hydraulic disc brakes available in the range too though.

The frame comes with aero tube profiles as well, with features like dropped seat stays and a recessed seatpost clamp.

Boardman even gives you tubeless-ready wheels, although you'll need to swap out the folding Vittoria Zaffiro Pro 25mm tyres to take advantage. But that does give you the option to fit 28mm rubber at the same time, taking advantage of the larger frame clearance. 

8. Pinarello Dogma F

The Pinarello Dogma has been the quintessential all-around race bike since Team Sky first raced the F8 model in 2014. Now, three generations later, it's better than ever, with increased integration, more tyre clearance and disc brakes.

The F8 was one of the first bikes to mix aero tube profiles with a light(-ish) overall weight, while the latest Dogma F manages to shave that down to 7kg even with its disc brakes. There are a host of 3D-printed titanium parts, like the seat post's saddle clamp, that help keep that weight off.

Pinarello has upped the Dogma's aerodynamics too, with its Flatback tube profiles, integrated bars and stem with hidden cable routing and redesigned down tube and seat stay profiles claimed to improve aerodynamics by 5 per cent.

It all adds up to a bike that's good at everything: climbing, flat-out downhill runs, fast twisty roads... It's comfortable to ride longer distances too.

Read our full review of the Pinarello Dogma F .

Best lightweight bikes

Gone are the days when lightweight bikes and aero bikes were two non-overlapping categories; the best lightweight bikes will nowadays include truncated aerofoil tube shapes to give you an aero advantage, while still edging towards or undercutting the UCI's notorious 6.8kg weight limit for bikes used in competition.

That's despite additions such as disc brakes - still heavier than rim brakes - and often deeper section aero wheelsets.

9. Van Rysel EDR CF Ultegra Disc

Although Decathlon says that EDR stands for "endurance", the EDR is also lightweight thanks to its sub-kilo frameset made from high modulus carbon fibre.

As with all Decathlon's bikes, you get a high spec for the price point with a Shimano Ultegra R8000 mechanical groupset with a semi-compact 52/36t chainset and an 11-28 tooth cassette. You also getUltegra hydraulic disc brakes, while the Deda cockpit and Fizik Antares saddle add to the quality spec.

The EDR CF comes with good quality Fulcrum Racing 3 DB alloy wheels as well. Along with the Hutchinson Fusion 5 25mm tyres, they're ready for tubeless running. At 7.7kg claimed weight, it's a bike that's light without breaking the bank.

10. Wilier Zero SLR

Hitting the UCI's 6.8kg weight limit, even in a road-going consumer spec with 28mm tyres, the Zero SLR is Wilier's pro-level climbing bike with a claimed frame plus fork weight of just over a kilogram. 

Despite the low weight, Wilier says that it's increased the frame's stiffness-to-weight by 24 per cent over its previous generation climbing bike, thanks to features like asymmetric chainstays and fork legs.

Like many of the new crop of lightweight bikes, the Zero SLR doesn't compromise on aerodynamics though, with flat-backed tube profiles and an integrated, aero cockpit with hidden cable routing. You can get as flashy as you like with the spec, with options that range from Shimano Ultegra Di2 12-speed up to Campagnolo Super Record EPS.

Best aero bikes

Although some brands have stopped making separate aero and lightweight bikes, many still offer machines specifically designed for aerodynamic performance. The best aero road bikes typically have deeper cross-section tubes and are kitted out with deeper carbon wheels too. That can make them a little heavier than a climbing bike or an all-rounder but ensures the best possible aerodynamics.

11. Vitus ZX-1 Evo CRS

Vitus took the ZX-1 to the wind tunnel and refined its tube shapes, adding a Vision-integrated cockpit to the highest spec models. The frame's chunky tubing certainly looks aero, though we found the bike a little harsh when riding over rough road surfaces.

All specs get the same Reynolds deep section aero wheels, with differential profiles and rim depths front and back to mix front-end aerodynamics with rear-end power delivery.  They're shod with Michelin Power Road TLR 25mm tyres.

There's a choice of groupsets, with everything from mechanical Shimano Ultegra up to SRAM Red eTap AXS on the menu. The Ultegra spec tested came with a Sunrace cassette; it won't match an in-series piece for shift quality, but higher specs get better cassette options.

Read our full review of the Vitus ZX1 Evo CRS .

12. Canyon Aeroad CFR

The Aeroad CFR (for Canyon Factory Racing) is raced by a quiver of pro teams, including Movistar, Alpecin-Deceuninck, Movistar, and  (unsurprisingly) Canyon-SRAM.

The frame lay-up includes Toray M40X carbon fibre for a stiff, lightweight build, but despite this, the Aeroad CFR is surprisingly comfortable. It's well-priced for a pro-level bike too. 

There is a range of Canyon-specific parts, including the adjustable width CP0018 Aerocockpit which lets you alter the bar width by 20mm and height by 15mm without needing to cut anything. It's also handy for travel, as the bar can be disassembled.

Wheels are DT Swiss ARC 1100 Dicut, with a 25mm Continental Grand Prix 5000 TL tyre at the front and a 28mm at the rear. The saddle is a Selle Italia SLR Boost Superflow Kit Carbonio to top off the Canyon seatpost, so Canyon has addressed our major gripes about spec from when we reviewed the bike.

There appears to be a new Canyon Aeroad in the works, which we've spotted being ridden by Mathieu van der Poel in early-season races in 2023.

Read our full review of the 2021 Canyon Aeroad .

Best endurance bikes

The best endurance road bikes are designed around long-distance comfort and usually have a more upright ride position and increased stability over more race-oriented machines. Expect plenty of tyre clearance so you can fit wider tyres, an important promoter of ride comfort. You'll often get specific comfort features built-in like micro-suspension or a seat post or front end designed to add compliance.

13. Cannondale Synapse Carbon 1 RLE

The Cannondale Synapse Carbon RLE bikes are equipped with lights and a rearview radar, powered by a single frame-mounted battery, upping your visibility and all-around awareness.

It's the fifth iteration of Cannondale's endurance bike and is equipped with Cannondale's own-brand HollowGram 45 SL KNØT wheels and Hollowgram Save handlebars for all-day ride comfort. As well as a top-end Shimano Dura-Ace groupset Cannondale says that the frame is even plusher than its predecessor.

14. Cervélo Caledonia

Raced at Paris-Roubaix by Jumbo-Visma, the Cervélo Caledonia looks to blend performance, aerodynamics and comfort for a ride that can handle everything well. The geometry is designed for stability and comfort over rough terrain and you can fit 34mm tyres. 

At the spec level we tested, there's a SRAM Force eTap AXS groupset with SRAM's 10-36t cassette and a Quarq integrated power meter. 

The finishing kit includes Cervélo's AB07 bars, which have a slight back sweep for a comfortable hand position for long days in the saddle and allow hidden brake hose routing. The higher specs are electronic-only, but lower-spec models can accommodate the cables for a mechanical groupset.

To up its endurance capabilities, the frame has a range of mounts, including for lights, and removable mudguard mounting points. 

Read our full long-term review of the Cervélo Caledonia .

Best electric road bikes

The best electric road bikes combine race-bike-like handling and specs with a motor and battery that often are hard to spot without a closer look. The quality spec means that on the flat you can usually ride them above the speed at which the motor cuts out and this in turn saves battery power and increases range. The motor is still there to support you when you hit a hill though, making tougher terrain much more manageable. They are also just downright fun to ride. 

15. Ribble Endurance SL e

The Ribble Endurance SL e lets you choose from a variety of specs from mechanical Shimano 105 or SRAM Rival up to Dura-Ace Di2 and including the latest electronic 105 Di2 12-speed. As with all Ribble's bikes, you can choose to up-spec certain components too via the Ribble BikeBuilder app.

Ribble uses the Mahle e-bike motion motor/battery system that's a popular choice due to its low weight and stealth format and is found in many of the best lightweight electric bikes . It contributes to an electric bike that doesn't weigh a lot more than many non-assisted bikes, while the 40Nm output from the motor helps out without giving you too much of an assist.

The range is decent, particularly since it's easy to ride the Ribble SL e above the motor's cut-off speed. You can buy a battery extender if you want more range still. The single-button controller mounted on the top tube is slightly tricky to keep tabs on and use while riding though.

16. Specialized Turbo Creo SL Expert

The Specialized Turbo Creo SL range heads up to the very expensive S-Works version. Stick to the Expert spec and you get something a little more affordable but with the same frame, tuneable Future Shock 2.0 headset and lightweight motor.

There's a SRAM Rival eTap AXS 1x groupset and Roval C38 Disc carbon wheels with 30mm tyres, along with Specialized's comfort-oriented bars and saddle. 

If you want more than the 80 miles claimed range, you can fit an optional extra bottle cage range extender battery to add another 40 miles.

As well as the standard spec, there are EVO versions of both the Turbo Creo Expert and the S-Works Turbo Creo that are specced for gravel riding.

How to choose the best road bike for you

We're well aware there are a bewildering array of options out there. Aero, lightweight, endurance, it can be a confusing landscape so it's natural to have a couple of questions. 

Fortunately, we have a whole guide on how to choose a road bike , so if you're absolutely awash with confusion then head there, but otherwise, we'll cover the basics below.

Do I need a road bike?

This is the most important question and one that will depend on the type of riding you intend to do. If you are only going to ride on the road then a road bike is a natural choice, but if you're going to be riding a bit of gravel then perhaps one of the best gravel bikes will be a better choice. 

Likewise, if you're primarily going to use it for commuting then you may well be better served by one of the best hybrid bikes designed for the purpose of transport rather than speed.

What sort of road bike do I need?

Another question that you'd do well to answer honestly. Are you going to be racing? In which case an aero road bike or all-around race bike may well be the ideal choice for you. However, if you're just riding for the fun of it, doing long miles, or just weekend club runs you may get more enjoyment from the additional comfort offered by an endurance road bike. 

Likewise, the minor weight savings offered by a lightweight climbing bike can make all the difference if you're heading up Alpe d'Huez, but if you live in Norfolk or somewhere else flat as a pancake then you'll not really gain any benefit.

Which groupset is best?

At the top end of things, where 12-speed, all-electronic shifting is the norm there is little to separate the main players, so it's all a matter of personal preference.

At the mid-range, now Shimano has introduced electronic shifting at 105 level, there is still nothing significant between Shimano and SRAM, and while Campagnolo is specced as standard on far fewer bikes it'll still compete perfectly well.

At the lower end, you'll likely find only Shimano and its Claris, Sora and Tiagra groupsets. For the price they provide excellent performance, and while they don't have 12 speeds or electronic shifting they are a little more user-friendly and cheaper to maintain.

Many of the best road bikes now offer gear ratios going down to 1:1, if you're concerned about cresting ascents; on the other hand, you can find bikes with narrower ranges, if you don't need such low gearing.

If you're still concerned we've a comprehensive guide to road bike groupsets to help you. 

What other components are important?

Road bikes are rarely sold with pedals or will come with basic flat pedals, so choosing the best road bike pedals and pedal system for your needs is step one.

Obviously, getting the best road bike saddle that's right for you is important for comfort, as is finding the right handlebars . They're both items which can be upgraded easily and without too much expense, as are road bike tyres . 

The most attractive upgrade is often to the best road bike wheels though. Many brands now fit quality wheels to their bikes, which match the price and quality of the bike. But you'll still find bikes across the price range that would benefit from a wheel upgrade.

How do we test?

The only real way to get a feel for a road bike is to put plenty of miles into it, which is what we do. Collectively we're ridden enough bikes here at Cyclingnews to know what's hot and what's not.

We'll pay attention to the handling, and see how the geometry affects things day to day and when going hell for leather. Are the tyres any good? We'll find out. Is it comfy over eight hours, or even over 18? Moreover, we'll find out if it's easy to live with too; can you swap parts easily or is it away with proprietary bits?

There's no substitute for time on the bike, in all weathers, so if we've given a bike a review you can be sure we've put it through its paces thoroughly to find the hidden gems and highlight any duds so you can spend your hard-earned cash with confidence.

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Paul has been on two wheels since he was in his teens and he's spent much of the time since writing about bikes and the associated tech. He's a road cyclist at heart but his adventurous curiosity means Paul has been riding gravel since well before it was cool, adapting his cyclo-cross bike to ride all-day off-road epics and putting road kit to the ultimate test along the way. 

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How to take your bicycle on a road trip

You don't have to be an athlete to take your bicycle on a road trip. In fact, you can be a couple of middle-aged biking newbies.

When Jim and I planned our Northwest U.S. road trip , we knew our bikes were coming with us. Thanks to Schwinn , we’d begun riding again and we absolutely loved it. We felt like kids. I mean, just look at the grins on those faces!

We didn’t know how much we’d be able to ride on the trip, but we figured we’d find a few places over the month-long excursion. 

The total journey covered 6,832.9 miles, and while we didn’t get to ride nearly as often as we wanted, and we missed some epic trails due to time constraints, we’re glad we brought our bicycles with us on the trip. Biking in Yellowstone? That alone made it worth the extra effort!

There may be affiliate links in this post, which means we may get a small commission if you make a purchase. It’s at no extra cost to you and helps keep TLT free. Everybody wins!

And here’s the best news:

You don’t have to be an athlete or have an expensive ride to take your bicycle on a road trip.

We’re not athletes. By a long shot. We’re active, but we’re not running any marathons. Or 5k’s, for that matter, but we do love to hike and be outdoors. Our bikes are Schwinn Circuit hybrids that retail for around $300. 

They’re perfect for our needs. They’ve got 21-gears, which come in handy on hills, and they’re comfortable (although I wouldn’t mind some extra padding in the seat – never thought I’d say that !).

We’d traveled with bikes once before, on our honeymoon. It was a short trip that was only five hours away, but even that one taught us a bit about traveling with bikes.

However, that was nothing compared to this epic adventure. We did some things right, did some other things wrong, and learned some important pointers for making our next road trip with our bicycles even better.

If you’re thinking about taking your bike with you on a trip, check out these tips before you hit the road.

Related: don’t miss my ultimate road trip planner !

1. Get a REALLY good bike rack

If you can’t get a good bike rack for your car, then don’t bring your bike. It’s as simple as that. You never know what road conditions are going to be like, and the idea of hitting a pothole and seeing your two-wheeled friend fly off into the sunset is heartbreaking.

When we were on our honeymoon, three years prior, our bike rack broke. We had to get another one if we wanted to bring our bikes back home, but there was only one rack within 50 miles and it was a cheapie at Walmart. Since we didn’t have a choice we bought it, but we knew we needed to get a good one before driving cross country.

We went to Village Pedaler, a fantastic local bike shop in South Elgin, and the owner Jeff helped us pick one out.

The sturdiest type of rack is mounted on a hitch, but because we were going to be renting a vehicle we didn’t know if we’d be able to install it. Plus, our car didn’t have a hitch, either.

We ended up with a Yakima Hangout 2 Bike Trunk Rack. With long straps and six hooks, it would work on both our rental SUV and, when we got back from the trip, our sedan. It’s a sturdy rack that gave us complete peace of mind, whether we were driving 80 on asphalt or 15 on mud.

Visit REI to find your perfect bike rack .

Tip: For an extended road trip, skip the roof rack. Keeping your bikes behind the vehicle keeps them from getting all the gunk. Plus, those create tons of drag and reduce your MPG. Most importantly, you may not always have clearance, like through this tunnel on the Needles Highway:

2. Know how to put the rack on your car, the right way

If you get your rack from a local store, ask them to show you how to put it on. Jeff took the time to take us outside and put the rack on our trunk.

Most importantly, he showed us a trick: if you’ve got a rack that’s attached with straps, after you think they’re tight enough, have someone hang onto the bars with their full weight. Then tighten them again.

This makes sure that when you put the bikes on the rack, the straps are already adjusted for the additional weight and are less likely to come loose.

3. Get an adapter bar for women’s bikes

I didn’t. And my bike wouldn’t sit on the rack correctly. After we were already several hours late, I had to run down to Village Pedaler and pick up a bar that I could attach under my seat and handlebars to provide a level surface.

Don’t be like me. Get an adapter bar .

4. Use bungee cords to keep your tires from moving

This was another trick our local bike shop expert showed us. If you’ve got two bikes, get a short bungee cord and connect the back tire of one to the front tire of the other.

This keeps them from moving when you’re on the road. It also creates a bumper so that the gears don’t rub. 

Tip: Make sure you’ve got extra bungee cords , because these sometimes come off.

5. Bring a tire pump and tire sealant

Packing a tire pump is especially important if you’re going to be changing elevation. When you get to your destination, check the tire pressure. Chances are, you’re going to need some air. 

Keeping a tire sealant in your bag is a good idea all the time.

This mini-bike pump comes with a glue-less puncture repair kit.

6. Wash off the road dirt and oil your chains 

We didn’t do this. Granted, we rarely had the opportunity to wash our bikes, but because we didn’t, and we didn’t oil our chains, they were rusted when we got back.

Don’t be like us.

7. Make sure you have a helmet and gloves

We DID do this. Wear a helmet, always, and wear gloves, always . Your noggin’ and your hands will thank you.

Do be like us.

8. Take your bikes inside your hotel/motel

It’s a sad fact that people steal bikes, and while we could lock them to the rack, when the rack is connected with straps, it would have been easy for someone to slice through and take the whole thing.

When we weren’t camping, we stayed in motels. At check in, we’d ask if we could bring our bikes into our room, and invariably the answer was yes. 

9. Lock ’em up

When you’re out hiking, eating out, sightseeing, or whatever, make sure your bikes are locked up. Get a solid cable that can’t be quickly clipped. If you can find a brightly colored one, great! It makes it more obvious if someone is trying to cut through it. If not, you can wrap it with some colored electrical tape.

If you’re camping, there probably isn’t room in your tent, so lock the bikes to a tree or a picnic table. 

10. Know your limits

Riding a bike is fun. It’s an absolute blast. It’s also exercise. You’re on vacation, right? So don’t push it!

Take your time and pay attention to how your body is feeling, especially if you’re at higher elevations than you’re used to. You don’t want to get so worn out that you either a) can’t get back to where you started, or b) fall and injure yourself.

11. HAVE FUN!

This is the most important tip of all! Whether you’re going on a day trip, taking a spin around a new town, or just riding from your campsite to the pit toilet (I did that a few times), have fun.

When you take your bicycle on a road trip, you’re giving yourself permission to be a kid again, and couldn’t we all use that?

Schwinn provided our bicycles, but all opinions about the awesomeness of cycling are entirely my own. I did not receive any compensation, unless you count better health and fresh air, and really, aren’t those priceless?

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How to plan your first road bike ride

Everything you need for an enjoyable introduction to road cycling

Joseph Branston / Immediate Media

Matthew Loveridge

Setting out on your first ever road ride can be a daunting proposition, so here are six things to make your maiden voyage a success.

1. Be realistic

Just how fit are you? Can you run for the bus without breaking a sweat or does a single flight of stairs leave you panting and out of breath? There’s no need for heroics here, and we’d suggest keeping your first outing short and sweet.

If you’re moderately active already, make your first ride 15 miles long and aim to complete it in an hour to an hour and half.

If you’re less confident about your fitness, try to plan a route with a stop at five miles that gives you the option of adding distance if you’re feeling good, or heading home if you’re not.

2. Wear the right kit

We've got a whole guide on what to wear for road cycling and commuting , but the most important item, other than perhaps a helmet , is a proper pair of the best bib shorts .

Bib shorts are best because there’s no waist elastic to cut into your stomach, but any cycling shorts are better than none.

Shorts should be tight fitting because loose material will bunch and chafe, and wearing underwear with bibs is not recommended . You don’t want to be adding extra seams that could abrade your most delicate and valued body parts.

If you’re not comfortable showing off your curves in tight clothing, there’s nothing to stop you wearing comfy and baggier shorts or leggings over your cycling shorts.

One of the best cycling jerseys is ideal for your upper half, but hardly essential for your first rides. If you don’t have one, a close-fitting T-shirt is fine, or a heavier sweatshirt for cooler weather.

Just remember that you’ll be generating a lot of heat when you’re pedalling, so dress lighter than you would normally. A good rule of thumb is that if you feel slightly cold when you first step out of your front door, you should be comfortable once you get going.

If you haven’t bought all your kit yet then check out our beginner cyclist shopping list video below.

3. Bring the right kit

You shouldn’t need to carry out extensive roadside repairs on your first foray into the big bad world, but you’ll want to carry the basics for puncture repair .

All you need is a spare inner tube in the correct size , a couple of tyre levers , and a small pump .

You should also pack a basic multi-tool in case you need to make simple adjustments, such as saddle height, on the road.

We don’t recommend going on your first ride at night, but if it’s anything other than a nice, bright day, consider whether you should fit front and rear lights to make yourself nice and visible to other road users.

It’s also worth packing a lightweight jacket or gilet if there’s even the slightest chance of rain, and a little cash or a debit card for emergencies. Bring your phone too, even if you’re not using it for navigation, just in case.

4. Plan your route

As we’ve said, keep it short to begin with, and aim to ride on roads with no big hills and minimal traffic. If that’s not possible where you live, consider driving somewhere more suitable if that's an option for you.

It may sound odd to suggest this on a cycling website, but you’ll enjoy yourself much more if you can focus initially on riding the bike rather than dodging cars, especially in the first few miles of your cycling life.

If it helps with motivation, aim to hit a cafe halfway round for a quick caffeinated morale-booster .

There are lots of free (or partly free – most have paid upgrade options) online services and apps that will make planning a route easier, including cycling-specific ones such as Strava, Komoot , Ride with GPS and Mapmyride, as well as good old Google Maps.

These allow you to plan exactly how far you want to ride, and show you whether there’ll be any hills along the way. Just be aware of letting software choose your route because not all platforms have a finely calibrated sense of where it’s appropriate to ride a bicycle.

Some won’t differentiate between tiny farm tracks and dual carriageways when they suggest directions, so if you’re in any doubt about a road’s suitability, Google Streetview is your friend. As a general rule, try to avoid A-roads because cars will generally be driving a lot faster on these.

Most GPS bike computers will have some form of built-in navigation, and the option to download a route to the device. However, even if you don't have a bike computer, you probably do own a smartphone, so why not make use of its built-in GPS to navigate using your pre-planned route?

You can get handlebar phone mounts for most phones if you feel the need, but you should be able to hear instructions with it in your back pocket, regardless.

5. Prepare your bike

Your bike shop will have sorted out the essentials for you, but there are some basic things you can easily check yourself. It's also worth learning how to do a basic pre-ride safety check .

Your saddle should be at a height where you can pedal freely , and you should have just a slight bend in your knee when the pedal is at its lowest point. If you can place both feet flat on the ground while seated on the saddle, then it’s too low and you’ll hurt your knees.

Your tyres need to be properly pumped up, and this is best carried out with a track pump (also called a floor pump) with a gauge. The correct pressure varies depending on your weight and the exact size of the tyres.

There are many online calculators and apps that will give you advice on this, but for a typical 80kg rider with 700×25mm tyres, we’d recommend starting with 100psi in your rear tyre and 90psi in your front tyre.

Lighter riders can go lower, heavier riders should go higher. As you gain experience, you may want to experiment with higher or lower pressures to fine-tune your ride. Try adjusting in increments of 5psi at a time.

Before hitting the road proper, take some time to familiarise yourself with your bike, making sure you can comfortably operate the gears and brakes . If your bike is fitted with clipless pedals , practice clipping in and out.

It’s a good idea to always unclip one foot a few seconds before you come to a halt. That way you’re much less likely to forget and tip over awkwardly at a standstill.

Try shifting through the gears, but avoid the easiest two at the back when you’re in the bigger chainring at the front, and the hardest two at the back when you’re in the little ring. These gear combinations force the chain to work at an extreme angle, which puts unnecessary strain on your drivetrain.

Don’t operate both shifters at once, and get into the habit of easing off on the pedals slightly as you shift. It’ll make everything work a bit more smoothly and reduces the chances of an accidental chain drop.

You should be able to ride comfortably with your hands on the brake hoods for prolonged periods, and from there you need to be able to shift both front and rear gears.

The drops are used when you want to go really, really fast, and for descending. It’s important that you can brake safely from either the hoods or the drops, so try both out and make sure you’re comfortable moving from one to the other. Do this one hand at a time so you’re never completely letting go of the bar.

6. Prepare yourself

Come the day, eat a carby but not overly heavy breakfast and give yourself a good hour and a half to digest it. Something like porridge is ideal, or toast with lashings of jam, or ‘jelly’ if you’re American.

You likely won’t need to eat much on a ride this long, but it’s best to get in the habit of carrying a bit of food with you — so take a banana or a square of flapjack.

You should also put a bottle of water or energy drink in your bottle cage , and try to take a sip every 20 minutes or so, even if you don’t feel thirsty.

The rest is up to you, so saddle up, have fun and be safe out there!

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Roadtripping With Bikes

By Author admin

Posted on Last updated: November 16, 2023

Categories Gear Guides , Road Trips , Vanlife Guides

Guest Post By: evo

Jake and I have always considered getting a couple of bikes and adding a bike rack to our van set up. We haven’t quite made the move yet, although still hope to in the future. So, we’ve called in some bike experts to help our readers who love biking!  Today’s guest post from evo is all about roadtripping with bikes.

So you’re going on a road trip, and you want to take your bikes. That makes sense, after all, half the fun of riding bikes is exploring new places, whether that be pedaling new neighborhoods on your cruiser, new trails on your mountain bike , or new roads on a gravel bike.

Roadtripping with bikes is always a good idea, but a little bit of planning ahead can make your life a lot easier, and save you some big headaches. We’ve spent a lot of time roaming the roads to find new bike destinations, and these are some of the biggest things we’ve learned to help simplify the process of roadtripping with bikes.

Consolidate your gear

Biking requires a fair amount of gear, beyond your bike itself, you’ll need a bike helmet, and any bike clothes , like padded shorts, or jerseys.

And you don’t want to forget your bike shoes, or any tools or spare parts.

So we like to consolidate all of our bike gear in one big bag. That way it’s harder to forget something important like socks or a spare tube.

And, on longer trips, it’s really nice for everything to have a place to live. It’s a lot simpler to grab your bike and your bag of bike gear, instead of wandering around trying to find everything you need to ride.

Get all of your bike gear and clothing in one place, make sure you’re not forgetting anything, pack it all in one big bag, and then put it away after every ride. It’s the best way we’ve found to avoid driving five hours only to realize you forgot your helmet .

Carry your bike strategically

If you’re going on a road trip with your bike, you’ll probably be carrying it on some kind of bike rack .

When traveling with your bike, there are a few main factors to focus on, including convenience and security. Convenience is pretty straightforward, if your bike is just on a platform-style rack on the back of the car, it’s easy to grab for a quick ride. If the wheels are taken off and it’s being stored in the car, it’s a lot more work to get to it.

So, if you’re going on a trip where you want to take a bunch of shorter rides through the day, driving between, a rack on the outside of your car is a good choice.

That said, security is just as big a priority as convenience. Nothing ruins a trip like a stolen bike. The safest place for your bike will always be out of sight inside your car.

If you’re lucky enough to be traveling in a van, it’s pretty easy to store bikes inside. For smaller cars though, you may have to take the wheels off and figure out a system.

Leaving your bike on the outside of your car, unattended is always a bad idea. Locking your bikes on a rack can add some security, but it’s important to remember that bike locks mostly keep good guys honest.

If someone is intent on stealing your bike, a lock won’t stop them. Make sure to loop locks through the frame and wheels of your bikes, and make sure your rack is locked to the car as well. Too many folks have returned from a meal only to find that their rack was stolen along with the bikes locked to it. It’s better safe than sorry when it comes to securing your bikes.

Security also means ensuring that your bike will not end up flattened on the highway as roadkill. We recommend investing in a solid bike rack rather than relying on flimsy racks that attach with straps. Hitch-mounted bike racks are our favorite, they give you a great balance of convenience and security.

On any road trip you’ll be dancing between these factors, trying to find a balance that works for you. Everyone will come up with a different system.

Plan your rides ahead of time

Even if you’re going to ride in a totally new location, it’s a good idea to have at least a rough plan of where you’d like to ride. There are a bunch of online tools that make this easy, like Trailforks, Strava, and MTB Project.

For mountain biking, one of the best resources is Trailforks, a free app that lists mountain bike trails, along with info on difficulty and length. You can use it to plan loops, figure out which direction to ride trails, and estimate how long your rides will take.

You don’t need to set your itinerary in stone, but a rough idea of what trails you want to hit, and where to park to ride them is really helpful.

It’s also a good idea to head into local bike shops and chat with riders there. They can give you good info on what trails are really good at the moment, how to ride them, and where good camping spots are. Local knowledge always makes roadtripping with bikes much easier.

Bike road trips don’t need to be stressful and challenging, instead, if you do a good job of packing and planning ahead, it’s pretty easy to go have a great time exploring new riding locations. 

Guest Post Author:

We are evo –  a ski, snowboard, mountain bike, surf, wake, skate, camp, and lifestyle retailer based in Seattle, Washington, USA, with stores located in Seattle, Portland, Denver, Whistler, and Salt Lake City (coming soon). evo explores the collaboration between culture and sports – our aim is to bring all things relevant to the urban, action sports lifestyle into one creative space. Whether it is on the website, on the phone or in our stores, our aim is to make all who come into contact with evo feel welcome and excited about their experience.

Save ‘Roadtripping With Bikes’ For Later

How To Plan A Budget-Friendly Road Trip - tworoamingsouls

Thursday 6th of April 2023

[…] activities (if you own the gear) are hiking, kayaking, backpacking, biking, and fishing. (Read: Roadtripping With Bikes). Some other free activities are visiting a museum, taking a walking tour downtown, checking for […]

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The 10 Best Bikes for Your Next Bikepacking Adventure

‘Biking’ + ‘Backpacking’ = ‘Bikepacking’

To me, bikes symbolize freedom, and bikepacking is the pinnacle of that freedom. There’s always another mountain looming in the distance or a remote village to visit, and the majority of the days end at a campsite with a stunning view. (There may be mosquitos and sand flies, too, but the view’s worth it.)

Bikepacking routes feature long rides over bumpy, unpaved surfaces like dirt, rock and gravel. We’re talking about riding for hours day after day on towpaths, rail trails, forested singletracks and all-but-forgotten dusty roads that lead to some of the most beautiful and diverse places in the world. For these kinds of adventures, you need a bike that is durable, reliable, and relatively easy to repair trail-side. It also helps to have lots of mounts or ‘bosses’ to attach cages and/or frames to help you load up your camping gear. The best bikes for bikepacking can carry the load, opening the door for you to go on some incredible cycling adventures.

Go on a Cycling Adventure! Best Water Bottle Cages ● Best Mountain Biking Shorts ● The Best U.S. Cycling Tours

The Best Bikes for Bikepacking

• Best Overall: Curve GMX+ Titanium
• Best Value: Kona Rove
• Best for Beginners: Canyon Grizl 7 Suspension 1by
• Best Hardtail Mountain Bike for Bikepacking: Salsa Timberjack
• Best Rigid Mountain Bike for Bikepacking: Surly Karate Monkey

The Expert: I’ve written about adventure travel and cycling gear for 15 years across a variety of outlets, including Time , Bicycling , Adventure Cycling Magazine , Fodors , BBC Travel , Next Avenue, and many others. My bikepacking adventures have taken me across Central Asia (following the Silk Road from Beijing to Istanbul), Northern Pakistan, Armenia, Jordan, Egypt, Indonesia, and most of Western and Eastern Europe. I also ride road, gravel and mountain bikes closer to home in the Catskills and the NYC cycling community’s home mountain, Bear.

What to Consider in a Bike for Bikepacking

Frame material.

Reliable bikepacking bikes can be made from many different materials . The metal used to make your bike frame will impact its weight and durability, as well as how they feel when riding, and whether or not they can be repaired.

Aluminum frames are common among $1,000-$2,000 bikes. They’re lightweight and stiff, but often require thicker, heavier tubes to make them strong. Aluminum, as a material, also doesn’t absorb road vibrations well, so you’ll feel every rock and root you ride over.

This is not to say that aluminum bikes aren’t conducive to bikepacking, though. I’ve ridden plenty of high-quality aluminum bikes: They’re tough and damage-resistant, making them a solid choice.

Steel frames provide exceptional strength, and can be repaired if and when they crack. That can be particularly helpful for bikepackers who run into issues mid-adventure. For example, one of my friends cracked his steel mountain bike frame in Northern Pakistan. We took it to a repair shop where they bolted two strips of metal on either side of the break to hold it together. You wouldn’t be able to successfully do that with aluminum or carbon.

Carbon frames are the lightest option, minimizing the heft of your loaded-up bike. That low weight is highly coveted among cyclists, and they're quite expensive. Once cracked, carbon bike parts generally cannot be fixed, so you definitely won’t be able to make repairs on the side of the road.

Titanium frames are my personal favorite. Like carbon, titanium makes for a light and comparatively expensive bike. It’s more durable than carbon, though, and is especially resistant to corrosion. It also absorbs road vibrations well, smoothing out bumpy rides on rough roads.

Manufactured with a range of sweeps and rises, using materials like aluminum, titanium and carbon, there are a lot of ways to build a comfortable, durable set of handlebars. Choosing the design that works for you is mostly a matter of personal preference, but there are a few small considerations I’d suggest if you’re optimizing for long bikepacking trips.

For starters, look for an ergonomic design with angled bends that suit your preferred riding style (upright or more bent over for example.), which will minimize the possibility of nerve compression and hand or wrist fatigue.

I’d also suggest looking for bars that you find comfortable holding in multiple positions. You don’t want your hands or fingers getting numb while riding; it's difficult to operate brakes and shifters when you can’t feel them. From my many trips, I’ve found that many bikepackers switch out the handlebars that came with their bike to the Jones H-bar , which are flat and curve back toward the rider at the ends.

Ultimately, the best thing to do is to try as many options as possible. If you’re able, go to your local bike shop and try leaning on a few different handlebars to find the right fit for you.

A set of good brakes is essential on any bike, but they’re especially important when you’re riding up and down steep hills while weighed down with heavy gear. Most all of the bikes in this guide feature mechanical disc brakes , which are better than rim brakes at bringing a loaded bike to a stop when descending. They also don’t get mucked up by mud, leaves, and other debris.

What’s the difference? Location, location, location! Disc brakes are positioned at the center of the wheel, squeezing brake pads against a brake rotor next to the wheel hub. Rim brakes are mounted on top, applying their pads to the outer wheel rim. In their centralized position, disc brakes can stop a bike using less force. (In other words, they don’t need to squeeze as hard.)

Hydraulic disc brakes are also a good choice for veteran bikepackers: They outperform standard mechanical disc brakes on stopping power, but are more expensive and can be difficult to maintain. Since you generally can’t expect to have access to a bike shop on a bikepacking trip, I would only recommend using them if you’re prepared to learn how to maintain them yourself . (Honestly, it would be a good idea to learn, regardless.)

I’m mechanical all the way, mainly because this keeps the components easier to repair and maintain when in far flung places and/or countries where the latest bike gear and technology isn’t the norm. You also don’t need to worry about charging your electronic shifting at a campsite or a hotel that only has electricity for a couple hours every night. This doesn’t necessarily make it a better option, just the one I’m more comfortable with.

Suspension Forks

A suspension fork provides some cushion when rolling over rough terrain, making your ride more comfortable. It isn’t an essential feature, but worth keeping in mind. Neither of my bikepacking bikes have one and I manage okay… Though there have been stretches where I wished that I had one.

Again, the biggest argument against bringing a bike with a suspension fork on your trip is maintenance. If you plan to bikepack long distances, you’ll need to plan for the possibility that something may go wrong miles from civilization. Bikepackers with suspension forks should learn how to service them , and carry some tools and parts for the job, including a shock pump , valve core tool , and spare valve.

Storage & Accessory Support

While you can always gear to your bike with Velcro straps, it pays to pick out a bike frame that supports a large assortment of mounts, which give you the ability to add cargo racks , saddle bags and other dedicated bikepacking storage solutions like Salsa’s EXP Series accessories . The longer and more remote the trip, the more stuff you have to carry.

Drivetrain/Gearing

When it comes to gearing , the most important thing to remember is that you’ll likely be much happier with more gear options, especially for pedaling at lower speeds when ascending. Bikepacking trips often send you into rocky territory where you may be climbing for a full day (or days) while hauling all of your gear. Dirt and gravel roads, forest trails and singletrack also usually require deeper gearing than your average road bike because of the added rolling resistance you’ll experience on uneven ground.

Picking a specific setup is a personal choice, based in part on your fitness level and the weight of your fully loaded bike. That said, as a general rule, you’ll likely want a wider range of gears than what you’d find on a traditional road bike.

For example, new bikepackers could try a 1x crankset with at least a 32-tooth chainring on the front, and a 10-42 or 11-46 rear cassette, which should provide a wide enough range of gears with the lowest allowing you to pedal yourself and your gear up a mountain. You could also try an internally geared hub, which eliminates the chances of breaking/bending or otherwise damaging your rear derailleur (since you won’t have one.) Not all internally geared hubs offer the same number of gears. Make sure to get one with 12 or 14.

If you want to make your bike mechanic happy, ask them what they think and to explain the pros and cons of each setup.

How We Selected The Best Bikes for Bikepacking

I picked these model bikepacking bikes after taking each of them on a successful trip, or based on recommendations from experienced bikepackers I met on one. I can talk about bikepacking gear all day, and I often get the chance–with other bikepackers, riders who want to learn about the hobby, and brand representatives who cater to bikepackers (many of whom partake themselves). With that in mind, I selected these picks specifically to give you a wide variety of styles and preferences, so there’s an option for every kind of rider.

Curve Cycling GMX+ Titanium

The Curve GMX+ Titanium has all the qualities I look for (and love) in a bikepacking bike. The titanium frame features a carbon fork and significant tire clearance, so you can swap tire widths if you want, depending on where you’re riding. There is an incredible number of mounts–four on the fork, and two for water bottles on either side of the downtube.

As I mentioned, I prefer titanium frames because of their strength-to-weight ratio and toughness. I’ve also found that they’re excellent for absorbing road vibrations. (I’m always mildly shocked at the difference when I occasionally take my carbon racing bike out for a spin.) With elongated geometry, a substantial fork and wide handlebars, this bike inspires confidence no matter where you are; pavement, sand, washboard, rock or root-laden singletrack.

The GMX+ is incredibly versatile. It comes with a flared Walmer drop bar, but you can also outfit it with a flat bar if that’s your jam. It’s also available in a wide range of frame sizes and with many drivetrain options. It’s the closest you can get without going full custom.

The first bike I ever brought on a bikepacking adventure, the Kona Rove holds a special place in my heart. The Rove stands out as a versatile go-anywhere kind of bike fit for city streets or gravel trails, as well as one of the few 650b/26-inch wheeled steel bikes with a low enough price point for a wide audience.

This is a big benefit if you plan to take your bike abroad. Outside of the U.S. and Europe, 26-inch wheels are the norm, rather than the exception, so it’s easier to find compatible parts if you need them. Between that and the steel frame, the Rove is a perfect “hope for the best, plan for the worst” kind of bike.

When I started riding it, the Rove was one of the most comfortable bikes I’d tried, and one of the least skittish when off-road. On my first bikepacking trip with the Rove in Cambodia, I had no real idea what I was doing but somehow made it through with only a few scrapes and bruises and a new found passion for traveling offroad.

Canyon Grizl 7 Suspension 1by

With a front suspension fork, clearance for up to 50mm tires, and a plethora of mounts for water bottles and other accessories, it’s easy to recommend the Canyon Grizl 7 to a first-time bikepacker who may not be used to riding on rough terrain hauling all their gear. The front fork keeps your tire firmly in contact with the ground, making descents feel less scary and reducing the impact on your hands and joints over the course of a long day slogging through washboard roads (or the majority of the Mongolian steppe.)

It’s relatively light, features quality components, and is easy to set up for bikepacking, since Canyon makes bags and packs designed specifically for the Grizl. It’s an excellent choice if you’re dipping your toe in the bikepacking pool, and need to buy a bike specifically for that first adventure.

Salsa Timberjack XT

One of the most difficult roads I’ve ever ridden a bike on was a narrow cliff ledge that snakes through the Karakoram Mountains to Shimshal , the last village in Pakistan before you hit the Chinese border. The narrow road cuts through rocky cliffs strewn with rubble and sheer drop-offs–not a ride for the faint of heart… or lung, or leg.

My friend Julian’s Timberjack, with its 130mm of travel, short chainstays, wide handlebars, and burly tires fared better than any other bike traversing over this treacherous span of our Karakorum cycling adventure. I watched him fade into the distance as I cautiously made my way over rushing rivers, impossibly steep inclines and a road made entirely of rock debris.

Sporting Salsa’s adjustable Alternator dropouts, the Timberjack can be outfitted with a Rohloff hub or single-speed drivetrain. There are plenty of rack mounts–down tube, seat tube, and top tube–for lots of different bikepacking configurations and internal cable routing, allowing for an effective and streamlined loadout.

Surly Karate Monkey

One of my exes once declared the Karate Monkey “the most perfect bike ever.” While there was a lengthy list of things we disagreed on, I admit that it’s an amazing mountain bike . With a rigid steel fork and steel frame, the Karate Monkey is built to withstand most anything you throw at or under it.

The current design can accommodate either 27.5- or 29-inch wheels, so you can set it up to suit your style and preferred position. It features rack mounts on the dropouts, as well as bosses on both sides of the downtube, so you can mount three water bottle cages if you want when traveling through areas where you may have trouble finding fresh water.

Perhaps most importantly, the Karate Monkey is compatible with most standard mountain bike standard parts, so it’s easy to customize for your bikepacking needs, or get a replacement part away from your home bike shop. That said, I’ve seen bikepackers riding Karate Monkeys on all kinds of terrain, all over the world: Not once have I ever seen one broken down or damaged.

Salsa Cutthroat C GRX 600 1X

Salsa designed the Cutthroat specifically for the Tour Divide Mountain Bike Race , a 2,745 mile -long bikepacking competition. That means it's well suited for very long trips with 16-hour days riding over everything from dirt trails to gravel, and all the tree roots you can stomach.

As all good bikepacking bikes do, it comes with a ton of mounts on the fork, down tube, top tube, and seat tube–17 in all. I also love the seat, which features thin seat stays and wide rectangle chain stays to absorb a lot of road vibration that would normally tire you out on this kind of terrain.

It also helps that this version of the Cutthroat features an ultralight carbon frame. (The “C” stands for “carbon.”) Steel frames traditionally reign as the most popular option among bikepackers traveling to parts unknown, but manufacturers have responded by building carbon adventure bikes with frames that can withstand quite a bit of thrashing over rough surfaces.

On a 5-month sojourn across central Asia, one of my riding cohorts made the very bold decision to bring Cutthroat and ride it hard like a mountain bike. He bombed rocky downhills as if he were invincible, and spiraled up steep, bumpy ascents with seemingly little effort. He managed to break a seat rail (not on the seat that came with the bike), which is not an easy thing to do, but the frame never cracked.

While the carbon frame still adds a little more potential for a trip-ending break, the Cutthroat is about as trustworthy as you can get.

Diamondback Haanjo 4 EXP

One of my favorite bikepacking buddies (and fellow adventure travel writer) Amy Jurries rides a Haanjo 4 EXP. She brought it on our eastern European ride across Georgia and Armenia, which ended up being much rougher (surface-wise) than we anticipated. We encountered singletracks through forests, pothole-laden asphalt and double-digit grades that went on for miles. There was more than one point where we thought our legs would most assuredly fall off.

Most gravel bikes will work well for bikepacking, but the Haanjo 4 ups the ante. It features a front fork with 60mm of travel, making it especially conducive to rough roads and bumpy trails. Its mechanical disc brakes are suitable for remote locales and are easy to maintain. It also has plenty of mounts on the top tube, down tube and seat tube.

The 1x11 drivetrain saves weight while still providing ample gearing for all the steep ascents you can handle, though you may wish for a few more on the top end for when you’re cruising over asphalt with a negative grade. Tomcat wheels with WTB Raddler tires help you keep the rubber on the road, even through questionable fields where the trail disintegrates into bush and grass.

Sometimes the terrain you’re riding on calls for bigger tires. The Trek 1120 bike is designed specifically for off-road adventures. It features large 29-inch wheels, which you can ride through sand and deep snow easier than you could on narrower tires.

On the storage front, the 1120 features three fork mounts and eight frame mounts, including a water bottle cage mount on the bottom of the downtube for those who don’t mind some dirt with their hydration. Best of all, it comes with removable front and rear racks, so you’re ready to carry a lot of gear before adding any accessories or modifications.

My favorite feature, though, is its horizontal sliding dropout, which allows you to easily switch to a single-speed setup if your rear derailleur has an unfortunate encounter with the ground or an immovable boulder. Hydraulic disc brakes ensure you’ll be able to stop when needed… Like before your trail sends you off a cliff. (Pro tip: Most mountain roads outside the U.S. lack anything resembling a guard rail.) The extra braking power comes in handy here, as the 1120 is relatively heavy.

All told, the Trek 1120 gives you the confidence to the kind of high-risk locales where a bikepacker might specifically want a fat tire bike, from the Jordanian desert to the snowy backcountry of Alaska.

Specialized Diverge Sport Carbon

I am a forever fan of Specialized bicycles, and the Diverge is one of my favorites. The carbon frame, matched with a carbon Future Shock fork and progressive geometry, makes it one of the lightest and fastest bikes on the bikepacking circuit.

Bikes with “progressive geometry” have a longer front end, positioning your body lower as you reach for the handlebars to minimize wind resistance. Even with the increased reach, slacker head tube, and longer offset fork, the Diverge feels solid on rocky terrain without sacrificing rolling speed on asphalt. It also has a shorter stem, which keeps the bike agile. The bottom bracket is high enough that you can swap the 700cs for 650bs if you want. It also features mounts galore including fork, top tube, and rack.

All in all, the Diverge and its light overall weight means you can carry more, faster and further with less overall perceived effort.

Cinelli Nemo Tig Gravel 2

I’ve found that there is a subset of bikepackers (and cyclists in general) who get ridiculously excited about handmade bike frames. Cinelli bikes are built entirely by hand in the brand's headquarters in Milan, which helps to justify the high price of the Nemo Tig Gravel 2. If you’re a bike nerd like me who waxes nostalgic about Richard Sachs bikes of yore, you may find yourself willing to pay it.

As the name suggests, the Nemo Tig Gravel is slightly better suited to gravel and dirt than extremely rough, rock laden surfaces. Not that you can’t ride it over rocks; you’ll just need exceptional bike handling skills and leg strength. If you’re going where singletrack is the majority of what you’ll be riding, you may end up doing a lot of hike-a-biking.

This bike also full of cool features that will excite cycling gearheads, like diamond-shaped seat stays with oriented ellipses, which contribute to the bike’s all-around comfort when pedaling long distances. The diamond shape helps to absorb road vibrations. Its custom-drawn Columbus Spirit triple-butted tubes feature three thicknesses across their length, trimming weight and bolstering their structure. I also love that you can pick from up to 69 different paint and finish options, including a range of pinks, lime green, burgundy, and white.

Q+A With Veteran Bikepacker Vanessa Nirode

What is the difference between bikepacking and bike touring?

The difference between a bike tour and bikepacking is in the route. Bikepacking trips typically revolve around cycling to and through beautiful, remote landscapes, with everything you need to survive strapped to your bike. They often provide rare opportunities to visit remote places like villages on the “Roof of the World” , and sleep in camping spots far from overcrowded campsites.

As a result, the cycling is often off-road-focused, with dirt trails, gravel roads, rail trails and pretty much anything that gets you away from cars and pavement.

While you’re still riding all day and camping out at night, bike tours usually stick to paved roads. Bike tour riders also usually carry more gear for a more comfortable overnight experience, including front and back panniers and possibly even a trailer. That’s a lot more stuff than you can afford to take when traveling rough trails and offroad: Keeping a trailer upright while riding a singletrack would be a serious struggle.

What type of bike should I bring on my bikepacking trip?

Many bikepackers–including me–will tell you that the best bike for bikepacking is the one you already own, especially if you’re just trying it out to see if it's your thing. While that old gravel or hardtail mountain bike you rescued from the street may not be as comfortable as something new you bought with a specific trip in mind, it’s definitely fine to get you through your first short trip - or even multiple trips.

If your bike doesn’t have enough mounts for your gear, you can strap things on using zip ties, bungees and/or Salsa rubber straps .

If you feel the need to purchase a new bike, though, I’d steer most people toward a hardtail mountain bike or gravel bike for their first bikepacking trip. If your route includes long stretches on rough roads or trails, look for a bike that has a fork with suspension to minimize the impacts.

What should I wear while bikepacking?

It’s important to bring comfortable clothes that you can ride in day after day. Most riders prefer padded shorts for a little cushion on a long ride. You may also want to wear some clothes with moisture-wicking properties so more of your sweat rolls off you.

Beyond that, pack the same way you would for any camping trip. Depending on the weather and climate, it’s always a good idea to bring some layers, including a warm base layer , rain jacket , and a long sleeve jersey or jacket in case it gets cold. If you’re planning a trip where you’ll ride through regions with different climates, make sure to include layers to account for all the types of weather you should expect to encounter. Look for gear that is packable (compresses down into a small size) and lightweight to optimize the space you have for carrying.

I recently acquired some clothing from the Fjallraven and Specialized collaboration, and am a huge fan of the Anorak pullover for cool days; it's roomy for layering and features tons of pockets plus side ventilation zips.

What should I pack when bikepacking?

Every bikepacker develops their own list of essentials over time, fine-tuning it with time and experience after every adventure. Here are some essentials that everyone needs .

For an overnighter, you need something for sleeping. That could be a small tent and a sleeping bag , or a bivy sack . It’s absolutely fine to use any camping equipment you already own, though veteran bikepackers typically start upgrading with lighter, more compact gear.

While you want to pack light, you will need more than the clothes on your back. Make sure to pack a separate set of clothes to sleep in, and at least one spare riding outfit in case you get caught in the rain or sweat a lot. This way, you’ll always have a dry one to put on in the morning. I also bring extra socks, a warm hat , and a compressible puffy jacket for cool evenings.

Don’t forget about supplies, either. Always carry enough water to last between stopping points where you know you’ll be able to refill. If you’re going somewhere where stores or fresh water sources will be far and in between, a portable water filter may be worth the investment.

Lastly, if you’re camping you will need cooking gear, though you should bring as little of it as possible. I’ve heated many bikepacking dinners (and morning coffees) up via a Pocket Rocket and titanium cup .

And snacks, don’t forget snacks.

Vanessa Nirode is a freelance writer who covers wellness, culture, outdoor adventure and travel for Hearst , HuffPost , PopSci , BBC Travel , and Threads , among others. She’s also a pattern maker and tailor for film and television but most of the time, she’d rather just be riding her bicycle.

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Great tour! - Moscow Bike Tours

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I was a solo traveler and I just had one day in Moscow. This bike tour was great not only did it... read more

Vado was a fabulous tour guide and he took us to unexpected and delightful places. His ability to... read more

Great tour!

We booked a parks&nature tour. Vado was our tourguide, although he showed up a bit late he texted he was late and compensated the time by extending the tour. Parks&nature tour shows you a beautiful part of Moscow. Vado knows a lot about all the places and statues we visited. He also made a lot of pictures which was nice! We had a great time during this tour and would recommend it to anyone who would visit Moscow!

We did a private tour with Vado that lasted well over 6 hours. It was just fantastic. We saw so much and went to places we would never have found on our own. Vado had worked out what we wanted and got it exactly right. While it was long it was not too hard as it's mostly flat, and mostly off the road, on cycle paths, footpaths, through parks, or on vehicle-free roads. We stopped for coffee, lunch, a glass of delicious Kvass and a snack at the market in the park. Vado took some really good photos which we received almost immediately after the tour. He was an excellent guide, full of information and fun to be with. We absolutely loved it all and highly recommend it as a great way to see a bit of the 'real' Moscow.

This was our first trip to Moscow and Voilaa!! We met Vadim & rest was a fantastic city trip. We did Night bike trip in moscow and it was a private trip with just two of us with vado. We cycled for about 25 Kms which lasted for 5-6 hours, the pace of our trip was pretty much relaxed ( considering that we are not avid bikers). We covered 90% of the sights in moscow during this trip. We saw one of Stalin's seven sisters, Clean ponds, gardens with world war two memorials, arbat street, gorky park, new stadium, monasteries, saw the famous russian circus, sparrow hills, Statue of Peter the great just to name a few. Vado's english is excellent & he makes all the effort to understand the city as a local. We stopped for refreshments at Moo-Moo (russian fast food place) & stopped for excellent coffee which only a local would know. He managed to take some lovely pictures of us (he just does it while riding). You can totally see that he is passionate about it which makes this experience totally worthwhile.

Did a night tour, it was a private tour because nobody else had signed up for it.It was a wonderful experience. I saw many many things that I would never have been able to see walking or using public transportation. Vadim told me many stories that cannot be found in books. We also had a quick stop for food: I wanted to try a local specialty and Vadim took me to a nice place where I could try it. I had a lot of fun. For me it is was the best way to discover Moscow. It was very safe as well! Try it, you'll love it

Vadim sorted me out with a brilliant personalised trip round about 30km of the city; saw loads of things I'd never have got round to seeing, his English was better than mine and he got some amazing photos of me (don't know how he does this while riding :D ), introduced me to KBAC or kvass, looks just like Guinness but non alcoholic out by the new stadium, saw the monastery, learnt loads of snippets about the city, literature, saw Gorkiy Park, I'd never have dreamed of going on a bike solo round there, would totally recommend it. Will definitely be squeezing a ride in whenever there again,which will be fairly often! Based in a really nice and easy to find area too.

We had a perfect day exploring Moscow by bike in the spring sunshine. Having a private tour with just the two of us and Nadya meant we could ask lots of questions as well as see the sights around the historic centre and along the river. She was very friendly, knowledgeable of history and architecture and a great guide. We felt safe at all times (even if we're not used to cycling on the pavement) and the pace of our trip was relaxed, even though we took a little longer than expected. For people who like to get the feel of a city and not just travel around by metro this is a fantastic thing to do. It was our best day sightseeing in Moscow.

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Our road cycling tours are created specifically for the road biker, each trip supported and designed by our professional and attentive guides who are avid cyclists themselves.

We’ve designed our bicycle tours around a professional cyclist theme. Feel what it’s like to be a pro with your own mechanics, personal chefs, and local cultural experts waiting on you hand and foot.

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For those who have yet to tour with us, we appreciate the opportunity to introduce you to our family-run company and guiding principles of sustainability and adventure. Our portfolio specializes in Western North America and is rapidly growing internationally. Building on over 100 destinations, we cater to the full spectrum of active traveler, respective to fitness level and activity type. From road cyclist to mountain biker to electric biker, hiker, and multi-sport enthusiast, and from first-timer to friends and family groups of all ability levels, on behalf of our Escape Adventures family, we look forward to many new and exciting adventures with you.

With much gratitude, and happy trails,

Jared and Heather Fisher

Founders and Owner-Operators Escape Adventures

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• List Of Bike Accessories Crucial For A Road Trip

By Carandbike Team

1 mins read

Published on May 30, 2022

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• Unexpected situations are often encountered during long bike trips.
• Not being equipped to handle them can really spoil your adventure.
• Make sure to carry all these accessories during your next biking trip.

The worst mistake one can make on a bike trip is embarking on it unprepared. There are a few essential practices that you must follow and a few essential accessories that you must always carry with you. Today, we're going to talk about the latter. More specifically, we'll be telling you about certain bike accessories that are absolutely essential for every bike trip. Let's get going then.

This one's a no-brainer really but while we're at it, here´s a look at all the essentials you should look for in a good, safe helmet. Look for good padding and ample air vents for air circulation. Also, never opt for cheap helmets with low safety ratings. They can spell the difference between life and death. You can also equip your helmet with communication gadgets for speaking to your fellow riders or taking hands-free phone calls.

Riding jacket

The helmet isn't the only safety equipment you need to save yourself from crashes. A good riding jacket can save your life with its shock absorbing inserts and other safety features. Plus, it also provides respite from wind and cold.

Bungee cords

These cheap cords can turn out to be incredibly useful during your bike rides. They allow you to securely fasten extra luggage to your bike in no time. And since they don't take up much space, it never hurts to carry them around when you're travelling.

This one can be skipped when you're not travelling to remote locations. But if you are, keeping a can filled with fuel attached to your bike is always a good idea. It can be the difference between being stranded at the side of the road with no fuel and refuelling your bike enough to travel to a fuel pump.

Tyre repair kit

Modern bikes come with tubeless tyres and fixing them is an incredibly easy process if you have one of these repair kits handy. They come cheap and don't take up much space in your luggage as well. So, there's no reason why you should ignore them.

Phone mount

The convenience of your phone showing you GPS directions right under your eyes is really quite the comforting experience. While you're buying this, also opt for a USB charger so that your phone doesn't run out of battery.

Chain lubricant

A dirty chain can affect your braking and transmission. So, when on long rides, always keep it lubricated from time to time.

Riding for long durations causes serious strain on your hands and wrists. And riding without gloves in winter can cause your hands to go numb, which in turn slows down your reflexes, posing a safety problem. Having a good pair of riding gloves can mitigate these issues.

First-aid kit

Better safe than sorry. A must-have essential for any bike ride is a fully equipped first-aid kit. There is just no excuse for not carrying one.

These being the absolute essentials for bike trips, some additional accessories that could also come in handy include an multi-purpose knife, a flashlight, and a spare key.

Last Updated on May 30, 2022

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Cowboy’s new all-road e-bike adds suspension and a much bigger battery

It wants to go beyond the city..

Like many premium electric rides, Cowboy's e-bikes make short commutes easier, especially those involving hills or a lot of stop-start traffic. Its latest bike is an attempt to address another challenge: comfort. The Cowboy Cross is the company’s first “all-road” model, with thicker, bigger tires, seat suspension, inverted fork suspension and a substantially bigger battery for more extended trips—or simply fewer trips to the charger.

It’s a substantially different offering from Cowboy, which previously aimed its products at European cities with established cycling communities and infrastructure. With the Cross, the addition of a rear rack fused to the frame and an expanded range of 120km (in ideal conditions) both mean it’s designed for more involved trips beyond a simple jaunt around your neighborhood.

With that larger battery and suspension, the Cross ST weighs 26.5kg – over 58 pounds – more than the company’s Cruiser and C4 models, while the standard Cross is even heavier at 27.9kg. It’s a substantial e-bike. Once again, you can choose between step-over and step-through frames, and the Cross will launch in three colors: dark green, dark brown and black. All of them have an almost-satin finish, and the company has changed up the paint it uses to make it more resistant to scratches and grazes.

Compared to its predecessor, the Cross is far better equipped for curbs and random road bumps, resulting in a much smoother ride that I immediately felt during a brief test ride in central London. The e-bike launched up curbs, instead of the bounce and shudder I usually get on other e-bikes. It’s a single-gear bike, again, with a carbon belt drive system and the suspension is split between inverted fork suspension on the front wheel and seat suspension, both with 40mm of travel.

It’s easy to forget, due to the assistance you get pedaling, but e-bikes can be heavy – almost always heavier than their manual counterparts. So suspension makes a lot of sense when you’re riding something that weighs in at well above 20 kilograms. The ride, otherwise, was very similar to the Cowboy C4 I’d ridden before . Adaptive power is also on-board, ensuring the bike controls are simple and comparable to a standard bike. You just squeeze the brakes, and the bike will handle acceleration and thrust.

Cowboy couldn’t help tinkering with its companion app, and these bikes will launch with new social aspects for your rides, adding league tables between groups of riders and incentives to pump those pedals using your legs. (Excuse me, Cowboy, but I ride e-bikes in order to do that less ). Fortunately, the onboard phone holder doubles as a wireless charger too.

While I love the Cross, I’m unsure about the in-app mini-games. Madly pedaling to reach your app goals in a place like London, where you might miss a junction, cyclist or runaway baby stroller if you blink, simply doesn’t seem wise. Cowboy says it’s still working on ways to gamify your trips in a way that’s fun and not, well, so dangerous.

Adding suspension and a bigger battery cell, however, also contribute to the price. The Cross will be available at an early-bird price of £3,099 (just shy of $4,000) for a limited time, and will eventually go up to £3,499 (almost $4,500). In mainland Europe, it’ll cost at 3,500 Euros at launch and will increase to 4,000 Euros. You can order one now and the bikes will start shipping near the end of May or in early June 2024.

There are no US prices though, because the Cross won’t be headed to the US for now. The company says it’s continuing to focus on the European market, as it – getting all TechCrunch on you here – chases profitability. For some business context, rival premium e-bike maker VanMoof declared bankruptcy in 2023 . However, the company still plans to roll out its rides to the US. But only when it’s ready.

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Cowboy launches all-road electric bike to attract riders beyond European city centers

Cowboy is better known for its sleek electric bikes that you can see in many major cities across Europe. And if you look at the persons riding those Cowboy bikes, most of the time, you’ll see a young adult heading to an office with a laptop in a backpack.

That’s why the company is launching a brand-new bike called Cowboy Cross. It’s an all-road model that aims for comfort and long-distance trips.

I had the opportunity to see the new Cowboy Cross last week and take it for a test ride for a few minutes. When it comes to design, it definitely looks like a Cowboy bike with its pill-shaped front light, angular design and soft matte colors.

Similarly, Cowboy is betting on a fully integrated design with as little maintenance as possible. There’s no (physical) gear, braking cables are hidden as much as possible and the company uses carbon fiber belts.

What’s new with the Cowboy Cross are the tires. The wheels are slightly smaller (26.5 inches), but the custom-designed tires are much larger.

At the front of the bike, you’ll see front fork suspension. But unlike most road bikes, the front fork is inverted with the suspension near the wheel. In addition to a better design, that’s how Cowboy manages to hide the front brake cable in the frame.

There’s also a seat post suspension for navigating rough terrain. For both the front fork and the seat post, the suspensions can be adjusted with a screwdriver.

And if you’re a small person who just can’t ride a Cowboy bike due to your height, the saddle can go a bit lower on the new bike. The handlebar is a bit larger as well. Again, everything has been designed to make the Cowboy Cross more comfortable than existing Cowboy bikes.

Image Credits: Romain Dillet / TechCrunch

There are two designs for the aluminum frame as the Cowboy Cross is available in step-over and step-through variants. The bike is available in three different colors — light gray, dark gray and green. You’ll also find a rear rack that can support a child seat or various bags.

The battery is a bit larger with a 50% increase in capacity. The company claims that you should be able to ride for 60 to 120 km on (37 to 75 miles) on a single charge.

That’s about it for specifications. However, potential customers expect to keep their new bike for years to come. So it’s going to be important to make sure that the Cowboy Cross can easily be maintained over the long haul. But it’s hard to tell how it will fare on launch day. In addition to this hardware release, Cowboy is also announcing a new “Check My Bike” diagnostic tool.

Preorders start today with an early-bird price of €3,499 (that’s $3,800 at today’s exchange rate). Eventually, Cowboy expects to sell the Cowboy Cross for €3,999 ($4,350).

As a reminder, Cowboy’s “classic” bike models cost €2,699 ($2,940), but there are two software upgrades that cost €199 and €299 each. The €199 Cowboy Connect pack is included with the Cowboy Cross models.

“According to our studies, this will double our total addressable market,” Cowboy co-founder and CEO Adrien Roose told me. “I think it’s a different customer overall. It’s a customer who’s looking for more comfort. So they’re usually a little bit older and have a bit more budget.”

In my test ride, I also played with Cowboy’s mobile app. This app hosts all the smart features of the electric bike. You can turn on the lights, switch between Eco mode and AdaptivePower , get turn-by-turn directions and see historical data. AdaptivePower is the feature that automatically adjusts the power of the motor depending on the current slope and weather conditions — and that was under the spotlight following a patent suit with eBikeLabs.

The company also added some minigames that should encourage you to push harder without distracting you too much. For instance, the app will tell you to push as much as possible during 30 seconds. Or the app might say that you’ve entered a popular segment and tell you if you’re faster than your friends.

These Strava-like features won’t replace Strava just yet — they can even be disabled in case you find them too distracting. But it’s interesting to see the company going down that road and making software a first-class citizen.

Different models for different needs

Cowboy mostly sells its bikes to customers living in Belgium (its home country), Germany, France, the Netherlands and the U.K. Instead of launching in new markets, the company has decided to expand its product range with more form factors.

“We mostly spent the first two years of the company prototyping. During the next five years, we refined our platform. Now we want to offer our product in different form factors to meet different needs,” Roose said. So you can expect other models in the coming months and years.

In July 2023, Cowboy’s main competitor VanMoof filed for bankruptcy . This led to a difficult summer for Cowboy, too, as many potential customers dismissed Cowboy’s products. “There was a big overlap of customers considering both VanMoof and Cowboy bikes,” Roose said.

But he now believes that Cowboy can move forward, as the company is in a different position than VanMoof. “There are about 100 employees at Cowboy. The figure I saw when they closed shop was that 700 people were working for VanMoof,” Roose said.

With a gross margin of 40% on each bike sold directly to consumer, Cowboy expects to become breakeven on an EBITDA basis this year and generate a net profit next year.

Take Your Bike on Your Road Trip (or Just Escape for the Weekend) with One of These Top Bike Racks for Cars & Trucks

Posted: May 25, 2023 | Last updated: July 24, 2023

Whether you're a cycling enthusiast or just packing for a family vacation, loading and unloading bicycles from your car or truck is always a pain. Bike racks provide an elegant and simple solution to this problem and can even increase your bike-carrying capacity.

There is a huge selection of bike carriers to choose from. The type of mount, the type of bike, the size of your bike's tires, the number of bikes you wish to carry, and your budget will all determine which rack is best for you. With such a wide variety of racks on the market, you can choose the one that best suits your practical and aesthetic needs.

With so many options, as well as volumes of information to know when purchasing a rack, the Gear Team has stepped up to help you out. We've assembled a list not only of some of the best bike racks on the market but also some of the most crucial knowledge you'll need for purchasing and owning your perfect bike rack.

Types of Bike Racks

• Trunk Mount: Trunk-mounted bike racks are among the most affordable type of bicycle car carriers. They can range in price from less than a hundred bucks up to several hundred and are made to rest on the rear of a car trunk or rear hatch. They're usually fastened in place with straps. Arms and cradles support the bike to keep it securely in place.
• Hitch Mount: Hitch racks are an excellent choice for frequent users, especially for those requiring storage for several bikes. Loading bikes onto the trays is simpler than raising them above your head as you would with a roof rack, and they provide a more rigid mounting point than a trunk-mounted style and are usually more expensive. Most are available for 1.25- and/or 2-inch receivers, and they slip into your vehicle's receiver tube.
• Roof Mount: A great option for the serious cyclist or outdoor enthusiast because of how adaptable it can be—provided you're able to hoist your bike to the top of your car. While the cost can be reasonable ($200 to more than $500), it can quickly increase if you add more cradles or if you have to assemble a rack system. Many automobiles and trucks have crossbars, mounting points, or rails for securing bike racks.
• Spare Tire Mount: Spare tire racks are quick, simple, reasonably priced, and are an excellent option for sport-utility or off-road vehicles with a spare mounted on the rear of the car. Similar to a trunk-mounted rack, these racks attach via straps to the tire mount or rest directly on the tire. They're ideal for Jeep owners.
• Truck Bed Racks: Pickup-truck-bed bike racks allow you to transport multiple bikes inside the bed of your truck safely. They normally have a mounting mechanism that fastens the rack to the truck's bed. Clamps, belts, or other attachment methods provide stability. They also include components to safeguard the truck bed and bikes during transport, such as rubber padding, foam blocks, or other materials.
• Tailgate Pads: Tailgate pads allow you to travel with numerous bikes safely by fastening to the tailgate on your pickup. They typically drape over the tailgate and wrap straps around the gate to secure it. Bikes should be loaded rear-wheel first so that only the front wheel protrudes over the tailgate. Each bike should be fastened securely, and the bed liner's grooves serve as the rear wheel's natural trays.

shop all the best deals on bike racks at amazon

So which type of car bike rack is perfect for you, your bikes, your vehicle, and your lifestyle? Here are some of our favorite picks.

Trunk-Mounted Racks

The most popular—and most affordable—type of car bike rack, trunk-mounted racks use a combination of straps, weight, and leverage to carry your bikes. They come in a variety of styles and shapes to carry (usually) up to four bikes.

S-102 2-Bike Trunk Rack

Allen Sport's S-102 trunk-mounted 2-bike rack offers a secure lightweight option for transporting your bikes. It features Allen's patented Sure Strap lower straps which keep the bottom hooks in place during use, as well as large pads to help distribute weight. It can hold up to two bikes or a total of 70 pounds.

910XT Passage 2-Bike Trunk Mounted Carrier

From the leader in car cargo solutions, this trunk-mounted bike carrier also comes in a three-bike version. Your bikes hang, which may result in them clanking around. But those bars fold down when they're not in use, which is a handy perk. If you're looking for a trusted brand name, you can't go wrong with Thule.

Ultra Compact Folding 1-Bike Trunk Mount Rack

What makes this trunk-mounted offering from Allen Sports different from the rest is its incredibly compact size when not in use. It fits neatly into a carrying bag or backpack so it can easily be stowed in your vehicle's cargo area. It comes pre-assembled and ready for use and features a padded spine to protect both bike and vehicle.

Hitch-mounted Bike Racks

Hitch bike racks are generally designed to slip into 1.25- or 2-inch hitch receivers. They come in two general types. Hanging racks are lighter, more affordable, and usually provide more ground clearance than platform styles. The negative is that the bikes can swing and bump into one another while you're driving. Platform mounts are the simplest and safest way to load and secure your bikes. However, they are often more expensive and can be tricky to mount, remove, and store when not in use.

Helium Pro Hanging Bike Rack

Thule's Helium Pro hitch-mounted rack is made from super-lightweight aluminum, making it much lighter than most similar systems. It folds down for easy access to your cargo area and has a number of cool features including a 3-bike (112-pound) capacity, integrated cable locks, compatibility with 1.25- or 2-inch receivers, and integrated anti-sway tech that prevents bike-to-bike contact.

50025 Hitch Mount 2-Bike Rack

MaxxHaul is another well-known brand name in car cargo carriers and haulers, and its 50025 bike rack has a ton of features at a great price. It has a padded column to prevent scratching and improved cradles and buckle straps to secure and transport up to two bikes (maximum capacity is 50 pounds per bike). A built-in locking knob keeps your bikes steady, and the entire unit tilts to provide easy access to trunks and rear hatches.

T2 Pro XTR 2 Hitch Bike Rack

The T2 Pro XTR is another serious offering from the folks at Thule. It offers all of the same features as the more lightweight Helium (above) but adds an overall more rigid build. It has a 2-bike, 120-pound capacity which can be expanded to four with the addition of the Thule T2 Pro XT Add-On . It has large 12.5-inch spacing between each bike and fits 20–29-inch wheels and up to 5-inch tires without adapters, making it great for all types of bikes.

Heavy Duty Tilting Bike Rack

This hitch-style rack is a solid option for those who want to haul today's heavier e-bikes. Its 132-pound capacity makes it ideal for electric bikes, and it features a patented Anti-Wobble System to keep things tight. It tilts down for easy trunk/hatch access and folds up out of the way when it's not in use.

Roof-Mounted Bike Racks

Roof-mounted bike racks get your bikes up and out of the way, opening up sightlines and providing easy access to trunks and rear hatches. They most often mount to roof racks and rails, so they're ideal for SUVs and CUVs with roof racks already installed. Yes, lifting your bike up to the roof may be a hefty task for some. And they're not exactly subtle! But for security and peace of mind, rooftop bike carriers provide the sturdiest form of bicycle transport.

Aluminum Bicycle Carrier for Roof Rack

Here's a simple, affordable solution to getting your bike onto the roof of your car or truck. The Erkul fits a variety of wheel and tire sizes without adjustment (or removing your wheels) and features an integrated TorqueRight tightening knob that makes it easy to secure your bikes. An existing roof rack is required; optional crossbars and accessories add versatility.

Mountain Trail Universal Bike Rack

Rhino Rack's roof-mounted bike rack is built to hold your bike tight. It is designed to hold road, mountain, kids, and fat-tire bikes with the front wheel removed. It's up for the job thanks to a dual-locking system that holds both the bike and the carrier secure. It also has a rear-wheel strap and works with most roof rack crossbars.

HighRoad Rooftop Bike Mount

The HighRoad makes transporting your bike a breeze. The TorqueRight tightening knob fits almost any bike with tires up to 4 inches. It requires no wheel removal and doesn't make contact with the bike frame, making it a great option for carbon-fiber bikes and custom paint jobs. The universal mounting hardware fits most roof racks and it can be converted to integrate with T-slot crossbars with the SmarT-Slot Kit (sold separately).

Suction Cup Bike Rack System

This is perhaps the most portable and versatile way to mount your bike to your roof; they're ideal for use with rental cars while traveling. These suction-cup mounts use a vacuum seal to attach to the roof of your car, meaning there's no need for a rack or roof rails. Installation involves simply wiping the area clean, placing the cups on the roof, and repeatedly depressing the plunger until the cup is firmly sealed. Better still, Kupper Mounts look far more sleek than traditional bike racks.

Spare Tire–Mounted Bike Racks

An excellent option for sport-utility or off-road vehicles, spare-tire bike racks are ideal for Jeeps—or any vehicle with an externally mounted spare. Similar to a trunk-mounted rack, they attach via straps to the tire mount or rest directly on the tire.

SR1 2-Bike Spare Tire Mount Rack

Hopefully, your spare tire doesn't see much use—which makes it a great place to set-and-forget your bike rack. The SR1 has a 2-bike 35-pound capacity, is very lightweight (only 10 pounds), and is easy to install. Adjustable to fit most spare tires, the support arms can be centered for side-mounted tires and folds away when not in use.

BC-8407-2 Blue Devil Spare Tire Mounted Rack

If you like the idea of a spare-mounted bike rack, Apex Legends' BC-8407-2 offers superior rigidity. It's made from duty steel and mounts to your hatch rear-spare hub mount rather than the tire itself. It can hold up to two bikes, is key-lockable, and includes tie-down straps, a rear reflector, and two keys.

Truck Bed Bike Racks

For pickup owners, the easiest way to move your bikes will be in the bed of your truck—but you'll still need a mount to keep them from jostling around. Mounted directly, bed racks allow you to transport multiple bikes safely in the bed of your truck with clamps, belts, or other attachments providing stability. Bed racks also usually include safeguards for your truck bed and bikes, such as padding or foam blocks.

Truck Bed 4 Bike Rack

Pipeline racks use a strap system that requires no drilling into your truck's bed. It works with a variety of bikes, and the company offers a range of accessories to expand the rack's capacity and security. It's made of lightweight, rust-resistant aluminum, and its rubber feet won't scratch bed finishes. Also available in 2-, 3-, and 5-bike options.

RT201 Truck Bed Bike Mount

The RT201 from Inno is a different type of bed-mounting system. There's no "rack;" instead, the Inno uses sturdy C-clamps to mount to the side of your truck's bed and ratcheting straps to secure the bike, leaving the rest of the bed open for additional cargo. Installation is a breeze and only involves two clamps with ratcheting straps. That said, it only holds one bike at a time.

SportsRack 2030 BedRack Elite

Designed for full-size trucks like the Ford F-150, the 2030 BedRack from Heininger is incredibly versatile. It's easy to assemble without tools and mounts to the inside of your truck bed using wingnut screws tipped with soft padding, to protect both your truck's finish as well as your bikes. Able to hold up to four bikes at a time, the BedRack can be left in your truck, making it easy for anyone to roll their bike into the bed. It's adjustable from 52 to 68 inches.

Tailgate Pads

TGP-XS Tailgate Bike Pad

This tailgate pad from DNA Motoring is an easy solution for hauling your bikes without installing a metal rig in the bed of your truck. It's made from heavy-duty weather-resistant vinyl, has a soft plush underside to protect your truck's finish, and can hold up to five bikes using strap anchors.

Tailgate Pad Duo

Ideal for hauling two bikes at a time, this tailgate pad features a cool design that comes in black, gray, or stone (pictured). The tarpaulin exterior and foam padding interior are cut-resistant, water-resistant, and UV-stable. It also features a fleece lining on the inner truck-side of the pad to protect your paint. It fits both mid- and full-size trucks.

What to Look For in Bike Racks

Determining the type of rack to use is the first step in selecting the best bike carrier. As evidenced above, there are many kinds of bike racks in a variety of configurations to fit various vehicles and demands. For instance, you might choose a trunk-mounted bike rack if you own a small sedan or hatchback. Consider a spare-tire bike rack if you drive a Jeep or SUV, and there are numerous options for pickup owners. Which rack you buy will depend on the design of your car or truck.

Number of Bikes You Want to Transport

Determine how many bikes you intend to bring on your journey. Think about a tailgate or hitch bike rack if you need to transport several bikes. A trunk or roof bike rack is best if you only have one or two bicycles. There's no need to purchase a rack that carries four or five bikes if you plan on cycling solo.

The Car or Truck You Drive

Keep in mind the year, make, and model of your vehicle when shopping for racks, as that will significantly influence your options. You can use vehicle fit recommendations provided by manufacturers to find a rack that is appropriate for your particular model. Does your car or truck have factory roof racks? This can make choosing roof-mounted options much easier. You should also look at your car or truck's hitch receiver. These typically come in sizes of 1.25 or 2.0 inches.

Your Budget

How much are you willing to spend on a bike rack? Bicycle racks for the trunk and spare tire are generally less expensive than those for the tailgate and roof.

Those who are serious about cycling know how valuable their bikes are. So you may look at which racks include security features. Locking systems will help hinder thieves, but many trunk-mounted racks don't offer built-in locking mechanisms.

Are bike racks weatherproof?

A rack should suffer the rain. Because it keeps the bike the farthest from the road in the rain, a roof rack is arguably the safest rack to use. When using a hitch rack or trunk rack in the rain, be prepared for road grime to kick up around the back of the vehicle.

Do bike racks damage cars?

Any bike rack can cause damage if it's not installed properly, utilized incorrectly or neglected. Trunk racks can cause damage to your vehicle's finish, which may allow rust to form on your car's body, which will lead to greater damage over time. In the case of hitch-mounted racks, the rack, the hitch, the car, and the bikes might all sustain damage if more weight is placed on the rack than the hitch or the rack handle.If your bikes are mounted on the roof of your vehicle, be mindful of your overhead clearance.

Can you leave a bike rack on your car?

In some states, it may not be legal to leave an empty bike rack on your vehicle. If you leave your bike rack on your car while you're not using it, it's more likely to be stolen. When you aren't utilizing the bike rack to transport a bike, it is usually advisable to remove it.

Can you take a bike rack through a car wash?

Manufacturers of bike racks and car-wash establishments usually advise taking off bike racks before having your vehicle washed. Bike racks can damage the equipment, which could result in fines or legal repercussions, and they are not made to withstand the force of a vehicle wash. In a self-service car wash where you can manually control the water pressure and direction, you can rinse out your rack if it's dirty.

How fast can you drive with a bike rack installed?

In most cases, you can drive as fast as you normally do—if you have a reliable bike rack that is properly fitted. Some racks have speed limitations on their manufacturer warranties. Your car will experience significant drag or wind resistance if you have a roof rack hauling large mountain bikes on top of it. Your speed and gas mileage will also be impacted by the style of rack you use. On the other hand, a bike rack that is attached to a hitch will have far less wind resistance.

Do car bike racks need lights?

While some states have regulations governing license plates and automobile lights when towing a bike rack, the majority do not. But you should consider putting lights on your bike rack as a safety feature. Done correctly, adding a few lights to your bike rack will give you greater protection and visibility.

Can you open the trunk with a bike rack installed?

If your car has a trunk-mounted rack installed, you should avoid opening the trunk because doing so could harm both the rack and the car. Even if you are able to open the trunk with the rack attached to the vehicle, the additional weight of the rack could force the lid to close abruptly. However, if your automobile has a hitch-mounted bike rack, you might still be able to access the trunk. Some bike racks for hitches feature a swing-away mechanism.

Why Trust Us?

Road & Track and its sibling publications at Hearst Autos represent three of the most influential automotive publications in the world. We rely on decades of experience in the automotive and gear spaces to help readers make informed purchasing choices.

With the legacies of Autoweek, Car and Driver, and Road & Track behind us, the Hearst Autos Gear Team is more concerned with the trust our readers have in us than our bottom line. We won't tell you to buy something if we wouldn't buy it ourselves or recommend it to our friends, and we'll never claim to have used or tested something if we haven't.

We've evaluated dozens of products, from SIM Racing Setups to Rooftop Cargo Carriers to Affordable Watches . Our picks and recommendations of products and gear are based on testing and knowledge, not hype. Read more about our testing process here .

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Latah Trail Bike Path

338 Styner, Moscow , Idaho 83843 USA

• Independent
• More in Moscow

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• Unavailable Parking
• Unknown Pets Allowed
• Unknown Restrooms
• Unknown Wifi
• Unknown Wheelchair Accessible
• Unknown Credit Cards Accepted

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