ethiopia travel brochure

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Ethiopia Travel Guide

Ethiopia is an emerging tourist destination. To make the most of your time in the country, it's important to understand what to expect, and how to best prepare for your journey across this beautiful, but unpredictable country. 

Taking a break, Community Trekking in Tigray.

Omo Valley Traditional Dance.

The view on the approach walk to Blue Nile Falls

Buffalo Herd in Gambella National Park.

Sankaber campsite in the Simien Mountains

Imet Gogo is a stunning viewpoint in the Simiens.

Taking a break to admire the view.

An armed scout must accompany you in the Simiens.

Lalibela market days

Body paint of the Omo Valley.

Breakfast at Mequat Mariam, Community Trekking.

The rainbow mist of the Blue Nile Falls

Karo Tribe in the Omo Valley.

Contents of our guide

• Major travel regions of Ethiopia

Map of Ethiopia

• Best travel routes in Ethiopia
• Where to start your journey
• Our top landmarks and places to visit 

Things to do in Ethiopia

Places to visit in ethiopia.

• How long to spend in Ethiopia
• Accommodation options in Ethiopia

When to visit Ethiopia

Costs of travelling to ethiopia.

• Guiding options in Ethiopia

Safety in Ethiopia

• Types of tours to Ethiopia

At the end, we have an FAQ section . This includes questions about: 

• Visas, money, photos & video, daily expenditures, what to bring, mobile & communications, vaccinations, Ethiopian cuisine, guidance on tipping, dress code

Major Travel Regions of Ethiopia

There are 4 major travel regions in Ethiopia: 

• The Northern Circuit
• The Rift Valley
• The Omo Valley
• The Dankil Depression

Beyond these easy-to-define regions, there are a number of other popular travel destinations, these include the Bale Mountains National Park , Harar , Gambella National Park , and the Gheralta Mountains (which are sometimes included in the northern circuit). 

We've broken down the major travel regions further on our Map of Ethiopia page . 

Best routes to take in Ethiopia

Which route you take around the country will depend entirely on: 

• How much time you have available
• What your budget is
• Which destinations are most important to you 

Typical Routes in Northern Ethiopia

A typical route is a 12-day northern circuit , which starts in Addis Ababa and loops clockwise around northern Ethiopia, finishing back in Addis. 

The major destinations on the northern circuit are: Bahir Dar , Gonder , Simien Mountains , Axum , Lalibela , and the Gheralta Mountains . 

Additional destinations you can include on a northern circuit include the Danakil Depression , community trekking , and Harar . 

Typical Routes in Southern Ethiopia

The main destinations in the south of Ethiopia are the Bale Mountains National Park , the Rift Valley , and the Omo Valley . Which route you take will depend on which of these destinations, or which combinations of these destinations, you plan to visit. 

It should be noted that travelling in the south of Ethiopia is much harder than travelling in the north. The infrastructure in the south is much less developed, and the access routes are fewer and less well maintained. 

How to plan a trip

Given the diversity of experiences available in Ethiopia, the distances between destinations, and the difficulty of travelling using public transport, it's worth taking the time to understand your options so you end up with the best possible itinerary for you. 

We've spent years travelling around Ethiopia, have partnerships with the very best local guides, drivers, and tour operators, and have helped hundreds of travellers explore this incredible country . Get in touch with us to start your journey. 

Brilliant says

Ethiopia is wonderful, chaotic, and incredibly beautiful. However, it is an emerging tourist destination, and everyone on the ground is still learning. It is important to pack a sense of humour in unpredictable Ethiopia!

Where do I start? Where do I fly into?

Unless you are doing overland travel and coming in from a neighbouring country, you will arrive via international flight into Bole International Airport in the capital city, Addis Ababa . 

Most international flights are overnight and arrive in the early morning in Addis (typically 6-7am). From here, you will clear immigration, collect your visa (more on that below) and head out to meet your driver in the car park . 

Note that drivers are not allowed inside the airport terminal, so you will have to go outside to meet them. This can be a tricky affair , but airport staff are always on hand to help you and if you've booked with us, you will have key contacts who you can call if you need help. 

Most people spend the first day in Addis, using the morning to relax and freshen up after the overnight flight, and then heading out to explore some of the city in the afternoon. 

Landmarks in Ethiopia

What are the must-see places in ethiopia.

We've compiled a list of some of our all-time favourite places, landmarks, lodges, wildlife, and restaurants in Ethiopia. Of course, we couldn't include everything, but if you're planning a trip, here are some amazing places you should consider visiting. 

In the north

• Church of Saint George , Lalibela
• Ras Dashen , Simien Mountains
• Limalimo Lodge , Simien Mountains
• Fasil Ghebbi , Gonder
• Lake Tana and the Blue Nile Falls , Bahir Dar
• Gelada Monkeys , Simien Mountains
• Erta Ale and Dallol , Danakil Depression
• Abuna Yemata Guh , Gheralta Mountains
• Ben Abeba Restaurant , Lalibela
• Korkor Lodge , Gheralta Mountains
• Obelisk of Axum , Axum 
• Hyena Man , Harar

In the South

• Ethiopian Wolf , Bale Mountains
• Bale Mountain Lodge , Bale Mountains
• Tribes of the Omo Valley , Omo Valley

Whether it's trekking in the mountains, exploring the volcanic landscapes, seeing the wildlife, or soaking up the culture and history of this country, there is no shortage of incredible experiences on offer in Ethiopia. 

Any page we write can only scratch the surface of the wealth of opportunities in Ethiopia, but to give you an introduction into what's on offer, and hopefully inspire your next adventure, you can check out our guide to the top 10 things to do in Ethiopia .

Admiring the view en route to Erar, Community Trekking.

A land of infinite variety, there's something for everyone in Ethiopia. Whether you're an adventurer, a honeymooner, a family looking for a break, a solo traveller, or a group of friends looking for a once-in-a-lifetime holiday, Ethiopia will surprise, delight, and inspire. 

Here's our rundown on the best places to visit in Ethiopia.  

How long to spend in Ethiopia?

A typical trip to the north of Ethiopia is 10-12 days . In that time, you can visit many of the towns and national parks in the north. 10 days is the minimum time required if you want to explore all the destinations on the northern circuit. 

With 12-15 days, you can also include the Danakil Depression and community trekking (our personal favourite thing to do in the country). 

If you want to include the north and south, you will need around two weeks , although this depends on how many destinations you visit in the north. You will need at minimum of 4 days to explore the Omo Valley . 

At Brilliant, most of what we do is build tailor-made trips , and we very rarely run the same trip twice. So no matter your budget, interests, or appetite for adventure, we can help create an itinerary that's perfect for you.

Accommodation Options in Ethiopia

Accommodation options in Ethiopia can fall short of international expectations (you can read more about this on our expectations guide here ).

However, there are an increasing number of excellent lodges , and the major destinations have enough options to keep most travellers happy. 

We've written a guide on accommodation options in Ethiopia , as well as the best lodges in Ethiopia and the luxury options available .  

Cosy, cabin-esque rooms at Limalimo Lodge

The best time to visit Ethiopia is between October and March . The country experiences a rainy season from June to September , although travelling during these months is still possible. 

We've written an entire guide on when to visit Ethiopia . 

A short walk takes you to the top of the falls

The cost of your trip to Ethiopia will depend on 4 key factors: 

• The length of your trip
• Your group size (solo travel is significantly more expensive)
• The accommodation preferences
• Whether you use local guides or professional guides

For more information, check out our guide explaining the travel costs in Ethiopia . 

Guiding in Ethiopia

There are two options for guiding in Ethiopia. The first is to use local guides in each of the regions you visit. Local guides are usually very friendly, and well-versed in the local myths and legends , but often do not have the same expertise when it comes to the facts and historical accuracy the destinations.

For some, this is part of the joy of travelling around a region, but others it can be a frustration. 

If you opt for local guides, you will have different guides in each of the regions you visit. For example, once you arrive in Addis, you will be picked up at the airport by a local driver and taken to your hotel. A local guide will then meet you at the hotel and take you on a city tour of the capital. Once it's time to continue your journey, for example if you're heading up to Bahir Dar, a driver will take you to the airport in Addis and another driver will pick you up from the airport in Bahir Dar. Here, you will be met by another local guide who will look after you in Bahir Dar, and so on!

Our expectations guide talks more about what you can expect from local guides in Ethiopia. 

If you'd prefer a little more continuity, or if you value guides with high levels of accurate knowledge , you can opt for a professional escort guide to travel with you around the country. These guides have excellent English and usually have formal training in tourism. 

A professional escort guide does of course add to the trip cost, but it can be well worth it for some travellers. 

Ethiopia is, generally, a very safe country to travel around.

Addis Ababa is one of the safest African cities, and as long as you exercise common sense, it is unlikely you will have any problems with safety while travelling in Ethiopia. 

We've written a guide on safety in Ethiopia if you want to learn more. 

Types of Tours to Ethiopia

With so many options for incredible tours in Ethiopia , it can be hard to know where to start, and how to plan the perfect adventure. Fortunately, our specialists have decades of experience in East Africa and know Ethiopia extraordinarily well, so get in touch with us to start your journey. 

There are many ways to slice and dice itineraries to Ethiopia, but to help get you started, here are some of the trips possible here: 

• Adventure Tours
• Cultural Tours
• Wildlife Tours
• Luxury Tours
• Coffee Tours
• Safaris in Ethiopia
• Private Tours
• Tailor-made Tours

Of course, these aren't mutually exclusive, and a single itinerary could be considered a blend of all the above!

Ethiopia Travel FAQs

How do i get a visa for travel to ethiopia.

All foreign nationals require a visa to enter Ethiopia. Fortunately, the process is very straightforward. You have two options for securing a visa, you can pay online in advance through the online evisa service , or you can obtain a visa on arrival at Bole International Airport.

If you use the online service, you will still collect your visa at the airport on arrival but you can skip the payment queue (which is welcome after a long overnight flight!) If you are paying on arrival, note that you cannot pay in Ethiopia

n Birr or card payment. You will need to pay in cash in either GBP, USD, or EUR. The price for a visa is around 50 USD for a standard 30 day visa. To secure a visa, your passport will need to be valid for at least the next 6 months from the point of arrival in Ethiopia. 

If you need to extend your visa, you can do this at the Immigration Headquarters on Churchill Avenue in Addis. For multiple entry visas, or if you are visiting on business, you need to contact the Ethiopian embassy in your home country, as these cannot be obtained online or on arrival.

Can I bring foreign currency to Ethiopia?

It is fine to bring in foreign currency, but if you are carrying more than 3000 USD equivalent, you will need to declare this. Generally there is no reason to bring huge wads of cash with you, as there are ATMs all over Addis and in all the major towns in the north and south. You are only allowed to import or export a maximum of 200 Ethiopian Birr. 

Am I allowed to bring my professional camera to Ethiopia?

Ethiopia is very photogenic, so you’ll want to bring a good camera with you to take the best snaps of your adventure. If you are planning on bringing a professional camera, you will need a permit. We can help you arrange this. There are no clear guidelines indicating which kinds of camera require permits, and handheld cameras are usually never questioned, but as a general rule - the bigger the camera, the more likely you’ll need a permit. 

How much money should I bring?

The local currency is Ethiopian Birr. In many of the built up cities, you can pay by card but you should not rely on this. If you’re going anywhere remotely out of cities, you should have cash to hand. Even in Addis Ababa, many establishments won’t accept card payments, or internet connectivity issues could mean they can’t accept it at the time.

ATMs can be found in most built up areas, so you don’t need to bring lots of cash with you into the country. It’s also now wise to walk around with huge sums of money withdrawn from Addis to last for your whole trip, so the best thing to do is plan ahead based on where you are going and for how long. Your guides can help you with this, but withdrawals are typically limited to 4000 Birr (~120 USD) anyway so you will need to top up throughout your trip.

Note: your guides won’t mind being tipped in a foreign currency, so consider this when determining birr withdrawal amounts.

How much will I spend on daily expenditures?

We advise carrying enough small notes (10 birr notes are very handy) for small payments and tipping. If you’re travelling to the Omo Valley, you’ll need enough 5 or 10 birr notes to pay for photographs. Daily expenditure will depend on personal preferences and requirements, and of course what is included in your tour with us. 500-800 birr (20-30 USD) per day is a good ball park to help you budget, and this will cover lunches, dinners, drinks and small personal spending. It does not include breakfast, excursions, entrance fees etc. which will typically be included in your tour price.

What should I bring when travelling to Ethiopia?

Much of Ethiopia is highland, which means temperatures are much milder than many countries in East Africa. Addis Ababa itself sits above 2000 metres, so you’ll be acclimatising the moment you step off the plane!

Given the diversity of climate from region to region in Ethiopia, you need to pack for the full spectrum of weather conditions (depending on where you are going, of course). In the Danakil Depression, temperatures will be approaching 40°C, whereas in the heights of the Simien Mountains at night, temperatures can fall to below freezing.

In general, daytime temperatures will range from 15°C to 25°C - so pack light clothes with a jacket/coat for the evenings.

Most hotels offer a laundry service, so you don’t need to bring too much! Remember, Ethiopians are conservative dressers so please respect this and dress to cover at least your knees and shoulders. Our trekking in the Simien Mountains page contains a full kit list for hiking in Ethiopia.

Will I get mobile data in Ethiopia? Can I get a local SIM?

The internet in Ethiopia is intermittent, and internet outages are frequent (either voluntarily during protests/civil unrest or involuntarily due to infrastructure).

Most hotels in built up areas will offer internet which is generally reliable. Ethiopia has just one telecom provider, the state-owned Ethio Telecom. The mobile data coverage is surprisingly good.

You will need to purchase a SIM card on arrival in Addis, and unfortunately it is not a simple process! Your guide will help you organise this, but essentially you will need to get a SIM card cut for your phone and they’ll take your passport details and a photo in the shop. It costs around 50 Birr (~2 USD). There are mobile data bundles available, depending on how much data you plan to use. 

What vaccinations do I need? Are there any medical pre-requisites?

It is important that you consult your GB or travel health nurse before visiting Ethiopia. Which vaccinations you will require, and specific advice pertaining to your safety while in the country will depend on your medical history and current health.

Thanks to Ethiopia’s high altitude, malaria is absent in much of the country. Most areas above 2000 metres are reportedly malaria free. That said, we still recommend taking anti-malarials as the disease is still present in low lying areas of the country.

A Yellow Fever vaccination certificate used to be required, but is no longer required at the time of writing, but it might be if you are coming from a country where the disease is present.

A cholera vaccination is required if you have a visited a cholera infected area within 6 days of arriving in Ethiopia.

It’s a good idea to bring a simple first aid kit with you, and you must bring any medicines you require with you, as local pharmacies have limited stocks. It’s extremely important that you take our comprehensive travel insurance when visiting Ethiopia. 

What is the food like in Ethiopia?

The mainstay for Ethiopian cuisines is injera topped with all sorts of sauces, meats (vegetarian options available as well), and spices. You will usually be eating with your hands when eating injera, and you should take care to only eat with your right hand. Placing food in your mouth with your left hand is considered rude.

You’ll also likely encounter a gursha, a tradition in Ethiopia where your host will feed you a piece of the meal - this should always be accepted! Ethiopian food is great, but if it’s your first time in the country and you are spending a number of weeks here, you should strike a balance between local cuisine and international foods that you are more accustomed to. We speak from experience...

You can learn more on Ethiopian cuisine page . 

Is there a general dress code for travelling in Ethiopia?

Ethiopians are conservative dressers, so you should take care to respect this and dress accordingly. Clothing should cover the knees and shoulders. Of course, allowances are made in certain parts of the country (e.g. the Danakil Depression) where the searing heat demands shorts! 

What guidance on tipping?

Tipping is vitally important in Ethiopia and is somewhat of a cultural expectation. While tipping is hugely appreciated by the local staff and we recommend tipping generously where you can, it can be difficult social terrain. We hope the below advice can help you avoid any awkward/uncomfortable situations.

The social awkwardness is often worse regarding the amount of the tip rather than whether or not to tip at all (as most travellers will provide some amount of tip). One approach that we have found works well is to decide beforehand how much you want to tip, then take out and fold up the notes and place them firmly in your guide/drivers hands, thank them for their help/services and then move on.

You don't want to be in a position where you are being watched as you take out notes one by one deciding when to stop. As a general guide, we recommend tipping 10 USD per day for guides, and 5 USD per day for drivers/support staff (drivers, cooks etc.).

People do often tip much higher than this but it comes down to your budget, so our suggestion would be to start at 10 USD/day and go up/down from there depending on the quality of service and your budget. It can be tricky but it's important to feel like you're tipping what you feel is deserved whilst sticking to your budget!

Responsible tourism is woven into the values of Brilliant Ethiopia. It’s impossible to separate what we do from why we do it. We don’t just want to reduce the negative impacts of tourism on the country, but we want to actively increase the positive impacts that tourism can have on the local communities and businesses. As a traveller and guest in this incredible country, it is your responsibility to take the time to understand that nuances of the Ethiopian way of life, and to respect their customs and traditions. 

Ready to Explore Ethiopia?

Historic north and luxury lodges.

Experience Ethiopia's northern circuit in style. Explore the incredible highland scenery, visit ancient monuments, discover unique cultural traditions, and break up your journey at luxury lodges set amongst incredible backdrops.…

Historic North Circuit

Explore the Simien Mountains from a luxury lodge perched high in the escarpment, discover the architectural remains of ancient civilisations, and watch the sun set over the sandstone cliffs of Tigray. The Historic North Circuit is a flagship itinerary in…

Historic North Circuit and Community Trekking

Fusing history, culture, landscapes and wildlife along a perfectly paced circuit, this trip is a synthesis of the very best experiences on offer in Ethiopia’s northern highlands. Explorations of the ancient cities Axum, Gondar, Bahir Dar and Lalibela are broken…

Historic Towns of Ethiopia

Every city in Ethiopia has a story to tell. In under 10 days, discover some of Ethiopia's most important towns, each different from the last in so many ways.…

Community Trekking in Ethiopia

Our community trekking routes are among our favourite experiences in Ethiopia. Offering a unique insight into rural Ethiopia through trails off-the-beaten-track, we're yet to find anyone who isn't blown away by the beauty of the rolling hills of Lalibela, the…

Simien Mountains and Northern History

This trip packs in a myriad of history, culture and some of the best scenery in Africa. Explore the palaces of Gondar, the world-famous rock-hewn churches in Lalibela, and the sweeping plateaus of the Simien Mountains. Leave enough time either…

Highlights of the North and South

The classic northern trail extends south into the Omo Valley, passing through the Rift Valley Lakes and highland peaks of the Bale Mountains. A once in a lifetime adventure combining the very best that Ethiopia has to offer.…

Northern Highlights

This classic route is perfect if you're looking for an introduction to Ethiopia, but don't have a lot of time. The focus is on the historic cities, monuments, and culture of northern Ethiopia, with plenty of wildlife and vistas along…

Bale Mountains Safari

Hike across electric landscapes of thick forests, Afro-alpine moorland, peaks and plateaus, and jungle thickets. An extraordinary outdoor adventure, with high altitude hikes unlocking staggering viewpoints, beautiful clearings, and endemic wildlife. At night, the sky is ablaze with starlight in…

Peaks and Plateaus of Ethiopia

Community trekking in Wollo and Tigray and hiking through the Simien Mountains National Park highlight the staggering natural beauty of Ethiopia. Tours of the ancient cities of Bahir Dar, Lalibela, Gondar and Axum play supporting roles.…

Community Trekking and the Danakil Depression

A true adventure across the northernmost reaches of Ethiopia. Experience community trekking on the plateaus of Tigray, where horizons stretch for miles, distant mountain peaks morph into hazy silhouettes lit by the evening sun, and pockets of light and shadow…

2 Day Simien Trek

An introduction to the Simien Mountains, this 2 day trek takes you to some of the major viewpoints of the primary escarpment, with one night spent camping at the beautiful Gich campsite.…

3 Day Simien Trek

This 3 day Simien Trek is the perfect introduction to the national park. Enough time to hike to all the major viewpoints, see the wildlife, and enjoy the beauty of these highlands.…

4 Day Simien Trek

This 4 day trek in the Simien Mountains starts and ends in Gondar. Hike from camp to camp, across the sweeping plateaus and down into the valleys.…

6 Day Simien Trek

6 days trekking in the Simien Mountains, across the vast plateaus and down into the valleys to discover some of the most exciting regions of the park. A proper wilderness escape.…

Camping in the Simien Mountains

The classic 3-night camping circuit in the Simien Mountains. This trip is usually included as part of a wider itinerary in the country.…

Classic Simiens Safari

The Simien Mountains are one of Ethiopia’s most stunning destinations. With its diverse flora and fauna, immense views and extraordinary geography, it’s an exceptional place that can be enjoyed by hardy trekkers and afternoon strollers alike. A couple of nights…

Trekking in the Simien Mountains

Discover the beauty of the Simien Mountains with this one week trekking adventure. Our Brilliant local guides know all the hidden gems to get the most out of your time on the 'Roof of Africa'. Easy to incorporate into a…

Explore the Roof of Africa

Experience the breathtaking Simien Mountains National Park on this in-depth tour of the ‘Roof of Africa’. Trek to peaks breaching 4,000 meters, experience the panoramic vistas, cross the rivers that flow into the lowlands and get up close with endemic…

Cultural and Natural South

Combining the best that Ethiopia has to offer south of Addis Ababa, this two-week odyssey takes you to the farthest corners of the Omo Valley, through the verdant forests of the Bale Mountains, and across the lakes of the Great…

Christmas in Lalibela

Ethiopian Christmas in Lalibela is one of the most memorable experiences anywhere in Africa. Thousands of pilgrims, draped in white gowns, gather around the 13th century rock-hewn churches for an evening of celebration, reflection, and reverence.…

Rift Valley Road Trip

Great for wildlife and hiking enthusiasts, this 4-day adventure into the Bale Mountains works great as a standalone itinerary, or as and add-on to a wider tour of the south.…

Rift Valley and Bale Mountains

Meander through the stunning Rift Valley Lakes, staying at boutique lakeside lodges as you make your way towards the Bale Mountains National Park.…

Birds of the Rift Valley and Southern Highlands

Discover the extraordinary bird life in Ethiopia that includes dozens of endemic species. Explore the national parks, rift valley lakes, and highland peaks and valleys that make Ethiopia a world-class birding destination. Boutique and eco lodges place you in the…

Two Days in the Danakil Depression

Join a group of like-minded explorers and drive into the Danakil Depression in convoy. One of the most geologically fascinating destinations on the planet, the Danakil Depression is renowned as the hottest place on Earth. Discover the kaleidoscopic landscape of…

Volcanic Explorer

The Danakil Depression is one of the hottest, lowest, and driest places on the planet. In the northernmost pocket of Ethiopia, it is home to salt lakes, lava lakes, volcanoes and neon acid springs. The remoteness of the Danakil combined…

Danakil Day Trip

For those wanting just a brief introduction to the alien landscape of the Danakil Depression, it is possible to take a day trip from the base town of Mekele. Be prepared for a lot of time in a…

Discover Lalibela

Any trip to northern Ethiopia is incomplete without a visit to Lalibela. Its rock-hewn churches, stunning landscapes, and amazing restaurants make it a must-see in the country. To this day, Lalibela remains the living, beating heart of spiritual…

Danakil Depression and Gheralta Mountains

Journey north and discover the alien landscapes of Dallol, the bubbling lava lakes of Erta Ale, and watch the sun go down over Lake Afrera. Combine this with a visit to the rock churches of Gheralta.…

Omo Valley Adventure

Immerse yourself in the traditions and culture of the Lower Omo Valley. Meet some of the 88 tribes in the region and discover their way of life. The Omo has been a cultural crossroads for millennia, and our expert local…

Ready to plan your Ethiopia adventure?

We'll spend some time listening to your aspirations, then discuss the kind of experience that might suit you.

Next we'll discuss the options, shortlist the best trips for you and present you our impartial recommendations.

We'll place a 24 hour hold on your preferred option - without obligation - whilst we talk through the details.

Whatever your budget, group size, length of stay, preferred activity or appetite for adventure, we can help.

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Ethiopia Travel Guide

Your ultimate ethiopia travel guide, with tips, things to do, and best things to see in ethiopia. great for first-time and returning travelers..

Located in the Horn of Africa, Ethiopia is the second most populated country in Africa.

Other than the fact that this African country was never colonized by a European power (along with Liberia), Ethiopia is known for its rich culture, delicious coffee, unforgettable landscapes, and friendly people.

It is also the only African country that has its own alphabet (an alpha-syllabary) which consists of 209 symbols and 25 letter variants.  

This Ethiopia travel guide will help you plan your next vacation.

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Our Highlight

Table of contents

Table of Contents

Fast Facts about Ehtiopia

• Ethiopia power voltage is 220V 50Hz;  Plug C, E, F & L
• Ethiopian currency is the Ethiopian birr and is around 20.8 ETB to 1 USD
• Proof of an onward or return ticket is frequently asked for upon arrival in Ethiopia.
• If you are planning to enter Ethiopia by land, you will need  tourist visa  in advance from your local Ethiopian Embassy.
• A yellow fever vaccination is not obligatory in order to enter Ethiopia, but if you have recently traveled to a country where it is present then you will need proof of immunization.
• Avoid travel to the border with Kenya, Somalia, Sudan, South Sudan and Eritrea due to lack of security and a threat of violence and kidnapping
• Several vaccinations are highly recommended including Yellow Fever, Typhoid, Hepatitis A, Hepatitis B and Meningitis.
• The water is not potable ; drink only bottled water.
• SIM Cards:  If you are planning on staying in Ethiopia for longer than a week, bring a cellphone to confirm flights, book tickets, call taxis etc.
• Only select stores sell SIM cards but you can buy refill cards almost anywhere!
• SIM Cards : You can get a local sim card from Vodafone or Orange in Cairo. We suggest getting a SIM card at the airport when you arrive.

Things to See and Do in Ethiopia

• Erta Ale:  Come see the most active volcano in Ethiopia. Famed for its persistent lava lake in the crater, it makes a great sight for those ready for the adventure up the volcano.
• Blue Nile Falls:  One of the most popular places in Ethiopia,take a short hike through the countryside to see this magnificent waterfall. Standing at 138 feet, fans of nature will love this. You might get lucky and also see a rainbow.
• See where the Blue and White Nile Meet
• Lalibela Churches:  Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, visit these historical 11 churches. Made from a single rock 900 years ago, these churches are a stunning sight, as well as culturally significant for members of the Ethiopian Orthodox Church. 
• National Museum of Ethiopia:  Learn more about Ethiopia by visiting this museum. Featuring exhibits, Ethiopian art, and fossils from extinct creatures, the museum also includes “Lucy”, a partial skeleton from a human who lived 3 million years ago.
• Simien Mountains National Park:  Featuring rare Gelada baboons and Walia ibex, spend a day at this park. Activities include the Jinbar Waterfall, Ras Dashen (highest mountain in Ethiopia), and hiking through Mount Bwahit.
• Fasil Ghebbi:  Head to Gondar to see these impressive ruins from a 17 th -century fortress city. Once home to Ethiopian emperor Fasilides, it is now a unique journey into the past.

Accommodation

Budget:  You can find budget guest houses and hotels for 325-600 ETB per night. These places come with simple rooms, a lounge area, free breakfast and Wi-Fi, and a hotel restaurant and bar.

Mid-Range:  You can find mid-range hotels for 1,175-1,825 ETB per night.Enjoy private rooms and suites with minibars and tea/coffee, a hotel restaurant and bar, a gym, an indoor or outdoor pool, room service, and airport shuttle. 

High-End:  You can find five-star hotels in the price range of 2,940- 8,250 ETB per night. Amenities include private suites with living rooms, free breakfast, multiple hotel restaurants, a cocktail bar, spa services, a gym, a swimming pool, and hot tub, and room service.

Spicy meat and vegetables are a staple of Ethiopian cuisine. At the same time, members of the Ethiopian Orthodox Church abstain from eating animal products every Wednesday and Friday, and so there are many vegetarian dishes/alternatives available as well.

The national dish is Doro Wat (spicy chicken stew). Other popular meals include Tibs (sautéed meat strips), Shiro be Kibbe (legume stew), and wat (stew made from meat, vegetables, spices, and clarified butter). You can also look for Injera, a sour flatbread that’s very popular.

There are sit-down restaurants where you can sample more of Ethiopia’s cuisine. In total, you can expect to pay 1030 ETB per day in major cities like Addis Ababa or 450 ETB for smaller cities.

The Best Ways to Get Around Ethiopia

Getting to ethiopia:.

Flights:   Addis Ababa Bole International Airport, located 3.7 miles from the city center of Addis Ababa, is the main airport to fly into. You can check for the best flights to Ethiopia on  Skyscanner .

Transportation:

Buses:  Buses are a cheap way to get around. Minibuses are best for traveling throughout towns, though you can also take them to go between cities.

A trip on a minibus from Gondar to Bahir Dar, for example, will cost about 20 ETB. You can also look for luxury buses that are air-conditioned and travel between cities. Take a luxury bus from Addis Ababa to Bahir Dar for 340 ETB. Tickets for luxury buses should be booked at least a day in advance. 

Taxis:  You can find two types of taxis—shared and private.Shared taxis willfollow certain routes and include multiple passengers in a cab (similar to a bus), while private taxis do not have fixed destinations. It is best to negotiate the fare at the start of the trip and check around to make sure you are being given a fair price. 

Car Rental:  You can find car rentals that come with an experienced driver. Self-driving is not possible in Ethiopia due to the conditions of the roads. Prices start at 3,530 ETB per day. 

Uber:  No Uber, but there is ZayRide, a taxi app similar to Uber.

When to go To Ethiopia

The best time to visit Ethiopia is during the dry season of October through June. The dry season means there is less of a chance of rainfall, which makes it great for outdoor activities. It is also the period when nature is at its peak beauty, particularly in the highlands.

Where to Stay in Ethiopia

Best Western Plus Addis Ababa:  When in Addis Ababa, stay at this popular hotel. Just a 20-minute ride from the National Museum of Ethiopia and Holy Trinity Cathedral, the hotel comes with free breakfast and Wi-Fi, room service, an indoor pool, a spa, a fitness center, and a hotel restaurant and bar. 

Sora Lodge Lalibela :  Come stay at this well-rated hotel in Lalibela and see great views of the Asheten Mariam Mountain. The Church of Saint George and Bete Maryam are both just 5-6 minutes away by car. If you prefer to stay indoors, the hotel includes three choices of rooms (standard, rock-hewn, and tukul rooms), free breakfast, a hotel restaurant and bar, room service, an airport shuttle, and laundry service. 

Goha Hotel:  Located 1.8 miles from Fasil Ghebbi and Fasilides Palace, this is a great place for seeing some top destinations or just for staying inside. With Goha Hotel being situated on a hill, you can see great views of Gondar from the hotel while enjoying the hotel restaurant that serves European cuisine, live entertainment, an outdoor pool, a café, a hotel bar, and sun loungers.

Check out our favorite booking platforms  Booking.com ,  Tripadvisor  and VRBO   for the best deals on accommodation.

What to Pack for Ethiopia

Ethiopia is in the tropical zone lying between the Equator and the Tropic of Cancer.

It has three different climate zones according to elevation: tropical, subtropical and cool zone.

The dry season is from September through to March, which is the best time to travel to Ethiopia.

There are two rainy seasons, the belg (short rains) in April and May and the long rains from July through to the end of September.

• Waterproof bag  – the bag has two functions, protecting your stuff from the rain and also from the dust, especially if you’re travelling to drier regions.
• Personal Safety products  – Addis Ababa is a safe city with little violent crime but lots of petty theft. As Jill from  Jack and Jill Travel  explains, “I’d never experience so many attempts at pickpocketing in such a short amount of time before.” Some tips include being extremely careful when leaving/arriving by bus in Meskal Square while also avoiding the use a backpack with anything valuable in it in Merkato.  Before leaving for your trip, make sure to pack some  personal safety products , like money belts and locks, so that you can keep your valuables safe on your trip.
• Protection from the elements –  pack sunscreen, sunglasses, a hat and bug-spray to prevent getting bitten by a mosquito (that might have malaria!).
• Avoid packing dark colored clothes  – tsetse flies are drawn to dark colors, like blue and black clothing, and their bite can give you African Sleeping Sickness. Stick to light, neutral colors but avoid packing white clothes as they will get dirty and dusty pretty quickly.
• Footwear  – Pack a pair of lightweight, durable and comfortable shoes that you don’t mind getting dirty!
• Layers  – pack the basic tropical clothes and make sure to include long pants, long-sleeve tops and some warm clothes for those chilly nights.

See our packing tips:  packing list for smart travel  &  How to Pack for a Safari

Ehtiopia Travel Guide: Best Booking Resources

Whenever we travel to we make sure to start with these companies. We have tried a lot of different ones over the years and all of these have consistently proven to be the best when it comes to offering great prices.

We have used every one of these personally and continue to do so.

• Booking.com : This is our go site to when comparing prices for accommodation. It usually has the cheapest prices, especially in Europe and we love their interface. Not to mention you get free cancellation and you are guaranteed the best price.
• Trip Advisor :  What we like about Trip Advisor is that we can look at all the reviews and then book our accommodation. TripAdvisor is where we go when we want to compare prices with multiple accommodation providers.
• VRBO : is the main search engine we use when we are looking for a home or apartment rental. It can sometimes be cheaper than hotels and it is the best way to stay in areas that offer a more local feel.
• Hostelworld :  With one of the largest databases of hostels in the world, Hostelworld is the go-to site when you are looking for budget accommodation.
• Skyscanner : This is the first place we check for flights. It consistently comes back with the cheapest and best options. It allows us to compare a lot of airlines to get the best price.
• Rome 2 Rio :  If you want to see how to get somewhere by plane, train, bus, ferry or car Rome2Rio lays it all out for you as well as related costs.I love how they show it all to you on a Google Map and it works offline.
• Get Your Guide:  For all your day trip and city guide needs, we use Get Your Guide. It has the world’s largest collection of things to do with more than 30,000 activities in 7500 destinations.
• World Nomads Insurance:  When traveling to Italy you should always have travel insurance. We have found the best bang for your buck is by far World Nomads.

Ethiopia Travel Guide: Related Articles

To browse all our articles and guides about  Ethiopia click here.

Best Ethiopian Food: 15 Ethiopian Dishes to Try at Home or Abroad

What it is like to Cycle in Ethiopia on the Tour d’Afrique

• Destinations

Wild Junket

Ethiopia Travel Guide & Itinerary 2024

Last Updated on March 14, 2024

To most of the world, Ethiopia is practically synonymous to famine and drought.

Granted, the famine that plagued Ethiopia between 1970s and 80s killed over a million people. It was one of the worst disasters in the world and millions of dollars were poured in from other countries in the form of aid and relief. 

But that was more than 40 years ago and Ethiopia has since recovered from the disaster. Today’s Ethiopia is very different from what most of us imagine. Its capital city of Addis Ababa in particular has developed tremendously along with the modern world. Ethiopia has become one of the fastest-growing economies in the world and it’s welcoming tourists again.

Table of Contents

Why You Should Visit Ethiopia

Best time to travel ethiopia , how to get to ethiopia, ethiopia travel visa, is it safe to travel ethiopia, travel ethiopia independently or on a tour, my 2-week ethiopia itinerary, explore the capital, addis ababa, visit the rock churches of lalibela, explore historical gonder, hike in simien mountains national park, visit rural villages in guassa conservation area, see the monasteries of lake tana, visit the ancient ruins of aksum, meet the tribes of omo valley, get blown away at the danakil depression, addis ababa: hotel lobelia, guassa conservation area: guassa community lodge , lalibela: seven olives hotel, gonder: queen taytu guesthouse, bahir dar/lake tana: papyrus hotel , what to eat in ethiopia, cost of travel in ethiopia, internet and data in ethiopia, people and language of ethiopia, what to pack for ethiopia, more information on ethiopia travel, ethiopia travel guide.

One thing is for sure, Ethiopia is truly unique — culturally, historically and scenically. I have traveled to 20 countries in Africa and can safely say this country is unlike any other on the continent.

Ethiopia is an extremely mountainous country and boasts highlands rather than the vast savannas that are often associated with Africa. Plus, the country is so diverse that any Ethiopia itinerary will pack in a myriad of experiences, from hiking adventures and visits to tribal villages to history lessons at ancient sites. 

Ethiopia is different from the rest because it is the only country in Africa to have successfully fought off colonisation. It is true that Ethiopians have retained a strong sense of identity and traditions, which have made them very proud and patriotic people.

It is possible to visit Ethiopia anytime of the year — but the best time to visit is from mid-October to January , when the rains have subsided and the countryside is still lush and green. I traveled Ethiopia in January and the temperatures were mild, with sunny days and cool nights.

It is best to avoid traveling Ethiopia during the rainy season, which falls in the summer months (June to August). During this period, roads in the mountains can get flooded and hiking trails may become too slippery.

Many people (including myself) time their trips to Ethiopia to coincide with religious festivals. Here are the biggest festivals of the year, in order of importance in Ethiopia:

• Genna — The biggest festival of the year is equivalent to the Ethiopian Christmas, which falls on 7th January. It marks the end of a 40-day fast, and is celebrated by feasting with the family. You’ll find the biggest celebrations in Lalibela .
• Timkat — The Ethiopian Epiphany is the second biggest festival and it falls on 19th January. The replica of Ark of Covenant is removed from every church in town and paraded around by priests dressed in colorful robes. The biggest celebrations are found in Gonder (Read about my experience celebrating Timkat in Ethiopia ).
• Meskel — This is the country’s most colorful festival, and it falls on 27 September. It’s celebrated by massive cross-topped bonfires and elaborately dressed clergy.

Addis Ababa Bole International Airport is a major hub in Africa, and the national carrier (Ethiopian Airlines) is one of the best airlines in Africa, connecting Addis Ababa to many parts of the world. They  fly direct from many major destinations including London, Singapore and Washington D.C.

Flights from most major cities in Europe to Addis Ababa cost from around 400euros or US$550 return. They’re at their lowest these days, and the cheapest flights are offered by Turkish Airlines. I flew from Malaga, Spain via Istanbul to Addis on Turkish Airlines for 440 euros return. Flights from London to Addis Ababa are as cheap as 380 euros return.

If you’re traveling to Ethiopia from US, flights from New York to Addis Ababa generally cost around US$1000 return with one stopover.

Find Cheap Flights to Addis Ababa

In recent years, it has become very easy to travel to Ethiopia thanks to the new evisa system. It is now possible for citizens of all nationalities to get an Ethiopia evisa online. 

A single-entry evisa that lasts for 30 days cost US$52, while an evisa that lasts 90 days costs $72. The processing time is 3 days.

All you need is a passport photo and your passport that is valid for 6 months. This is the official government website .

How to Get Around Ethiopia

Ethiopia is an extremely mountainous country. Many of its major sights lie on the central plateau and getting anywhere in the region can be a challenging task on its less-than-desirable roads or unpaved mountain dirt tracks. While the Chinese government is building new roads at lightning speed in Ethiopia, many of its roads remain in terrible conditions.

The easiest (and most comfortable) way to get around Ethiopia is by plane. Ethiopian Airlines operate domestic flights all over the country, flying to interesting destinations like Lalibela, Gonder, Bahir Dar and Arba Minch (Omo Valley).

Flights are usually quite affordable (less than US$100 each way), especially if you book them only when you arrive in Ethiopia from a local agent or Ethiopian Airlines office. You’ll also get a considerable discount on domestic flights if you flew Ethiopian Airlines from your home country to Ethiopia.

Search for Domestic Flights in Ethiopia

Traveling Ethiopia by road leaves much to be desired and is recommended only to adventurous travelers who are prepared to explore Ethiopia at its own erratic pace. Bus travel is very cheap, and luxury buses are actually affordable and comfortable.

There are two main  luxury bus  operators: Selam Bus  and Sky Bus. Their buses have comfortable seating, air conditioning, experienced drivers and a fair safety record. Using Addis Ababa as a hub, both companies cover a limited network that includes Bahir Dar, Gondar, Dessie, Harar, Dire Dawa and Hawassa. Unlike most other buses, seats can be booked the day before you travel.

Safety is often the biggest concern for those thinking of traveling to Ethiopia. It is true that the country has been plagued by civil unrest and unpredictable anti-government protests since November 2015.  

My friend who came with me on this trip to Ethiopia was hesitant at first, as her Ethiopian friend advised her not to travel Ethiopia because of the potential danger. The US travel advisory warns its citizens against traveling there — while that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t visit Ethiopia, I would recommend exercising caution when visiting.

That said, I felt completely safe during our Ethiopia trip and there was no hint of instability. I did however travel with a local tour operator, Aone Ethiopia Travel , and we had a guide most of the time. While in towns like Lalibela and Gonder, we encountered street kids and aggressive “guides”, but that was about the only negative experience we had. 

Ethiopia’s poorly developed infrastructure and remote mountainous attractions make any trip here an adventure. Traveling independently in Ethiopia can be challenging and only recommended for those who have experience traveling in Africa.

I traveled Ethiopia on a private tour with Aone Ethiopia Travel, but I don’t recommend them as the tour was not well organised. If you are looking for something more affordable, I would recommend traveling in a group with G Adventures .

They are a small-group adventure tour operator and I have traveled with them many times (to Antarctica, Brazil, Mongolia etc). Their 10-Day Discover Ethiopia tour is reasonably priced and their Ethiopia itinerary covers the best of Ethiopia.

How Much Time to Travel Ethiopia?

Ethiopia is a big country — there is an incredible amount of things to see in Ethiopia and distances are long. We packed in as much as possible in our 2-week Ethiopia itinerary and still barely scratched the surface.

I explored the major sites like Lalibela and Simien Mountains, but didn’t get to visit the famous Aksum, Omo Valley and the Danakil Depression. Those areas look impressive and definitely worth visiting if you have the time.

I would recommend a minimum of 3 weeks to travel Ethiopia, and even longer if possible. Ethiopia is a truly spectacular country, and every region has its own star attraction.

• Days 1-2: Addis Ababa
• Days 3-4: Guassa Conservation Area
• Days 5- 7: Lalibela
• Days 8-10: Gonder
• Days 11-13: Bahir Dar and Lake Tana
• Day 14: Fly back to Addis Ababa

Best Things to Do in Ethiopia

The country’s capital, Addis Ababa, makes a great introduction to modern Ethiopia with its collection of museums and markets.  The most important sight in Addis Ababa has to be the National Museum of Ethiopia , home to the remains of Lucy (first human being). Other interesting places to visit include Addis Mercato and Holy Trinity Cathedral , as well as the nearby Entoto Mountain for a panorama of the city.

If there’s only one place you can visit in  Ethiopia , make it Lalibela. Perched at an altitude of 2,630m, the hilly town is h ome to 13 rock-hewn churches built in the 12th century. Carved right out of  balsatic scoria  volcanic rocks, these 900-year-old churches were meticulously sculpted below ground level and immaculately preserved until they were discovered by a Portuguese priest in 1520.

Today, the  World Heritage Site is highly protected by UNESCO. What set the churches here apart from other monuments like Petra is that they are still active and fully-functioning. Rise early and visit at dawn to see pilgrims and priests pray and chant in a hypnotizing and spiritual setting. The Lalibela rock churches were easily my favorite place to visit in Ethiopia.

Lauded as the Camelot of Africa, this ancient capital is the stuff of legends, thanks to its treasure trove of 16th century palaces, lavish castles, and sprawling gardens. It is also home to one of the most well preserved churches in Ethiopia that feature impressive wall art.

I was very privileged to be in Gonder for the annual Timkat festival , the Ethiopian Epiphany Day. Locals put on their best traditional costume and reenact the baptism of Jesus Christ (by jumping into the city’s bath). Gonder is known for putting on the biggest Timkat celebrations in the country.

With some of Ethiopia’s highest peaks, the Simien Mountains pack quite a punch when it comes to lofty landscapes. You can spend weeks trekking here and you still won’t see everything in the national park. We woke up very early for a short hike and saw hundreds of gelada monkeys all around us. If you are an avid hiker, make sure to reserve a few days in your Ethiopia itinerary to go hiking around the mountaintop monsteries in Simien Mountains.

Another highlight of my trip to Ethiopia, the largely unknown Guassa Conservation area is a rugged, rural area not too far from Addis Ababa. This 98-square-km conservation area has been protected by the locally community since the 17th century.

It is an excellent area to spot endemic wildlife like the Gelada baboons and the Ethiopian wolf, as well as to immerse in remote local villages that will warmly welcome you. We stayed overnight at a simple hut and went on a long hike down to the bottom of the valley to visit a local village. It was a humbling experience and the landscape was absolutely mindblowing.

Ethiopia’s largest lake (and Africa’s third largest) has a peaceful and serene setting that is worth visiting to escape from the dusty towns. Its waters are inhabited by small pods of hippopotamus, hundreds of endemic species of birds; and its shores are dotted with over 30 monasteries, some of which feature the best mural art in Ethiopia.

Situated in the highlands of northern Ethiopia, Aksum marks the location of the heart of ancient Ethiopia, when the Kingdom of Aksum was the most powerful state in the region. The massive ruins, dating from between the 1st and the 13th century A.D., include monolithic obelisks, giant stelae, royal tombs and the ruins of ancient castles. Today it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Be sure to include this in your Ethiopia itinerary if you are a history buff.

In the remote vast plains of southern Ethiopia, Omo Valley is home to many tribal villages with interesting traditions and culture. Each of the villages has their own customs and language and have lived basically the same lifestyle for centuries.

The Mursi and Hamar are proud people who adorn themselves in unusual body art and jewelry and cattle are vital to their existence. They are also very territorial and will fiercely defend their land and way of life. Even though the region is remote, many tour companies operate tours to the Lower Omo Valley and several of its villages. Just be prepared for a pricey and challenging trip – both logistically and physically.

The Danakil Depression overlaps the borders of Eritrea and Djibouti and is part of the great East African Rift Valley. The climate is unforgiving and widely considered the hottest (average temp of 94F), driest (4 – 8 inches of annual rainfall) and lowest spot (400 feet below sea level) on the planet. Having said all that, this is definitely home to some of the world’s most unearthly landscapes .

The lava lake at Erta Ale is one of only six lava lakes on Earth and will leave you in awe. The multi-colored hydrothermal bubbling lakes and great salt pans will amaze you and have you question if you are still on Planet Earth.

Where to Stay in Ethiopia

Hotel Lobelia was the best place we stayed at in Ethiopia. It’s located just a 5-minute drive from the airport, in the up-and-coming Bole district that’s packed with restaurants and bars. The hotel has comfortable and spacious rooms, and great WiFi and a good breakfast spread. They also provide free airport transfer to the hotel. Check the latest prices here.

This is a simple, rustic lodge in the middle of the protected area. It feels like the middle of nowhere here and is great for getting disconnected and being deep in nature. You’ll have to bring your own food to cook and don’t expect any heating (it gets extremely cold at night!). Find more info on the conservation area website .

A landmark hotel in Lalibela, this is the oldest and most established hotel in town. While it needs some serious renovation work, it has a leafy garden with panoramic views of town and it’s located right in the centre of town, just a 5-minute walk from the churches. Book here.

This is a really cheap hostel just minutes from Gonder’s historical centre. It’s quite basic, but gives a run for your money due to its great location and not-too-scruffy rooms. Book here.

This beachfront hotel was the second best place we stayed at. It feels like a fancy beach resort that needs some sprucing up, but otherwise rooms are spacious, beds are really big and luxurious, and there’s even a swimming pool in the centre of the resort. Check the latest rates.

Before you dismiss the idea of having good food in a country that was once affected by famine, think again. You’ll be surprised to learn that Ethiopian food – much like other aspects of its culture – is some of the most diverse in Africa. It is absolutely unique  and distinctive (the only place in the world that shares Ethiopian food culture is its next door neighbor, Eritrea .)

The country’s main staple is injera , an ubiquitous pancake that is eaten for every meal all over Ethiopia. It is spread out on a large flat basket and simply topped with mounds of spicy meat stews, colorful vegetable curries and even raw cubes of beef. Originally made from tef (indigenous Ethiopian cereal), the injera may taste tangy, bitter and even slightly sour for the first-time taster — but it will grow on you.

Injera is often eaten with wat, an Ethiopian version of curry which can be very spicy. Chicken curry (doro wat) is known as the national dish, and it’s often eaten on religious festivals. Sheep curry (beg wat) is the most common, followed by beef (bere wat). Read my guide on Ethiopian food to learn what and where to eat!

Traveling Ethiopia isn’t exactly cheap — especially if you want to explore the remote regions. Most people, including myself, opt for a guided tour in Ethiopia as that is the best way to cover less-conventional paths in a shorter time.

I traveled with Aone Ethiopia and the 14-day Ethiopia itinerary costs around US$2150 per person. That included all our accommodation (in budget hotels) and transportation in 4×4 vehicle and minivan. Our meals and domestic flights were not included. 

I would definitely travel Ethiopia independently the next time I visit. It is possible to travel Ethiopia on a budget if you stay at guesthouses. A budget hotel in Ethiopia usually costs US$30-50 per night (don’t expect high standards), and food is cheap at around US$2 to 5 per meal in a local eatery or restaurant. A ride on the local bus is affordable, at around US$10 for a 4-hour journey.

Internet connection in Ethiopia has improved tremendously in recent years. You can get pretty good WiFi in most hotels and even guesthouses. Addis Ababa International Airport and other airports in Ethiopia actually offer free and relatively fast WiFi.

3G data connection in Addis Ababa works quite well, though connections are patchy once you leave the capital city.Getting a local SIM is cheap and easy. There is only one telco service provider, which is Ethio Telecom. You can get a SIM card for 30 birr in any Ethio Telecom shop. Make sure to get your SIM registered (required by the government here) and your personal hotspot established.

As well as blocking 3G networks, the Ethiopia government also regularly blocks social media channels. Be sure to  get a VPN for Ethiopia travel.

Ethiopia has a highly diverse population of people. The Tigray, Oromo, Somali and Amhara people make up Ethiopia’s population but there are more than 80 different ethnic groups represented. Some of these ethnicities have as few as 10,000 people.

Amharic is the official language of Ethiopia, but English is also widely spoken in Ethiopia. Learn some basic words like “selam tena jistilign” (hello!) and “ameseginalew” (thank you!) and locals really appreciate it! 

Due to the mountainous terrain, it gets pretty cold in some parts of Ethiopia during the winter months (November to February). But temperatures are mild, reaching around 73°F (23°C) in the day and 42°F (6°C) at night. This number can rise past 30°C on the lowland fringes of eastern, southern and western Ethiopia.

Bring layers regardless of the time you’re visiting Ethiopia. If you’re visiting Ethiopia in summer, t-shirts and long pants will suffice. For those visiting in winter, just bring a light jacket for the chilly nights. Don’t forget your sunscreen and hat as the sun in mountainous Ethiopia can be very strong. During my visit in January, I had on my thick winter jacket on most days.

Many Ethiopian Christian Orthodox ladies (especially in the villages) cover their hair with a white linen cloth. They are not very conservative and do not expect foreigners to cover up. To show some respect and fit in, try to cover your shoulders and knees. 

Have I answered all your questions on Ethiopia travel? Let me know in the comments field below and I will be more than happy to help you out! I hope this article has inspired you to plan your own Ethiopia itinerary!

Here are more articles that I’ve written about Ethiopia and nearby countries in the Horn of Africa:

• Eritrea Travel Guide
• Asmara, Eritrea: An Art Deco City in Africa
• 50 Pictures of Ethiopia
• A Guide to Ethiopian Food
• Celebrating Timkat in Ethiopia
• The Rock Churches of Lalibela, Ethiopia

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links to companies I use and trust. I get a small commission when you click on my links, at NO EXTRA COST TO YOU.

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Nellie Huang

Nellie Huang is the founder of WildJunket. Originally from Singapore, Nellie has traveled to over 140 countries across 7 continents. As an adventure travel blogger, she has a special interest in unusual destinations and deep experiences. Her work has appeared in many major publications including BBC Travel, CNN and LonelyPlanet.com. Read more about her here and get more life updates from her on her Facebook and Instagram .

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The Comments

For us why visit Ethiopia, its all about the adventures. You can’t get any better than hiking one of the best hikes in the world. The Simien Mountains has epic views and great wildlife.

Hi David, great post. I am rushed for time in Lalibela. Do you think an entire afternoon (2-5) and an am (6am to 11am) if enough time? I know longer is better but I am pressed for time. thanks

hi Niraj, thanks for dropping by! Yes it would be possible but you’ll probably only get to see some of the temples, not all. Still if you’re pressed for time, it is definitely possible. The town is small and it’s easy to walk from one temple to another.

Hi, I just want to update as of December 2018, all countries are eligible for e-Visa to Ethiopia. Amongst these, most get visa-free travel to Ethiopia (including all Africa countries).

Wow that’s great news! It was quite a pain for me to get my visa as I had to mail my passport back home to get the visa. Brilliant, thank you!

Elías García

As I recently traveled to Ethiopia (and enjoyed 100% this amazing wild land) and needed an electronic visa to get in the country, definetely I can advice you to obtain it in advance so you will save time and avod long lines! You can also check the requirements and eligible countries.

What exactly you mean by two passport photos? We need get two separate photos of passport size along with what’s already in our passport??

Yes, you need two separate passport-sized photos besides your passport.

It took me a bit longer time to read this blog completely, but I must say, you have really changed my way of looking at Ethiopia. I have never gone through so much information in one single article regarding this place. The history, the culture has really created a spark inside me, to visit this place soon.

Hike to the Massif of Abune Yosef near Lalibela is recommended for its off the beaten path trek, wild-life and village to village hike.

Thanks for the great writeup. The headline mentioned this as a 2020 guide. Is the photo from Erta Ale from 2020? I have read that recently, the lava lake is quite low and obscured by smoke. Do you have any info about that?

hi Dan, I’m afraid the photo is from 2018. Sorry I’m not informed about the current situation at Erta Ale. It’s best to email a tour operator who runs tours there.

ALEX THOMPSON

I honestly like Ethiopian Airlines — they’ve never been late for me, gotten me to my destination when other airlines had canceled my flight but they have some airline policies that are hard to understand.

Mahlet Kebede

I really surprised, you explain and narrate Ethiopian tourist attractions very well, Of course it is very help full to prepare my own itinerary, Thanks a lot.

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Introducing Ethiopia

About ethiopia.

• Images of Ethiopia
• History, language & culture
• Weather & geography
• Doing business & staying in touch

Plan your trip

• Travel to Ethiopia
• Where to stay

While you’re there

• Things to see & do
• Shopping & nightlife
• Food & drink
• Getting around

Before you go

• Passport & visa
• Public Holidays
• Money & duty free

Book your flights

• Addis Ababa Bole International Airport

Ethiopia travel guide

Putting its turbulent history behind, Ethiopia has been busy transforming its economy and making remarkable progress in infrastructure development over the past two decades. Today tourists are returning to the country in increasing numbers, keen to discover its wondrous landscapes, ancient religious sites and fascinating indigenous tribes.

Billed as 'The Land of Origins' by the Ethiopian Tourism Organisation, this amazing country is where the Blue Nile begins and home of the 3.2-million-year-old hominid fossil 'Lucy', whose discovery has put Ethiopia on the map as the cradle of humanity. One of the oldest Christian nations in the world, Ethiopia is a multi-ethnic and multifaceted destination where the art of hospitality is alive and well. Visitors are typically greeted with a steaming cup of coffee, which is said to be first discovered in the region of Kaffa in southeast Ethiopia.

Most visitors start their Ethiopian odyssey in the capital Addis Ababa, a lively city nestling in the lofty Entoto Mountains. Founded in 1886 by Emperor Menelik II after his wife Empress Taytu chose the site for its hot mineral springs, Addis Ababa has enjoyed a fascinating transformation over a relatively short period of time. The city is now a hub of international missions and embassies, including the headquarters of the African Union and the UN Economic Commission for Africa (UNECA).

Few linger long in the Ethiopian capital, choosing instead to head north to Lalibela, a pilgrimage site famed for its ancient churches which have quite literally been hewn out of a cliff. Lalibela is one of nine UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Ethiopia. Other notables include the ancient Kingdom of Aksum (or Axum), the fairytale castle of Gondar, the walled city of Harar, the Konso cultural landscape, the prehistoric sites of Awash and Omo valleys, the mysterious stelae of Tiya and the spectacular Simien National Park where the indigenous Gelada baboon and Walia Ibex thrive.

Ultimately, it is Ethiopia's epic landscapes that truly capture the imagination of many travellers. From the cloud-shrouded peak of Ras Dashen (the highest mountain in Ethiopia) to the sulphur fumaroles of the Danakil Depression (which is also the lowest point in Ethiopia at 125m/410ft below sea level), the scenery could inspire paintings, provoke poetry.

These wild environments sustain ancient tribes such as the Bodi, whose men live on a diet of blood and milk in a bid to become the region's fattest man of the year, and the Hamer, famous for their dangerous bull-jumping ceremony which is considered a rite of passage for young men.

Ethiopia has come a long way since the famine of 1983-85 which prompted Bob Geldof to write the fundraising hit Do They Know It's Christmas? (by a curious twist of fate, he now owns a stake in a wine company in Ethiopia). This country, long misunderstood by many, is now enjoying a booming economy, posting a strong and sustainable 8% to 11% growth rate since the turn of the 21st-century.

With Ethiopian Airlines boasting a wide network of air routes radiating from Addis Ababa, travelling to and around the country is getting easier, and for those who ride it out, the rewards are immense.

1,104,300 sq km (426,372 sq miles).

107.53 million (2018)

102 per sq km

Addis Ababa

Federal Democratic Republic

President Sahle-Work Zewde since 2018.

Prime Minister Abiy Ahmed since 2018.

Travel Advice

The Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office ( FCDO ) provides advice about risks of travel to help British nationals make informed decisions. Find out more about FCDO travel advice .

Areas where FCDO advises against travel

Your travel insurance could be invalidated if you travel against FCDO advice. Consular support may be limited where FCDO advises against travel.

International border areas 

FCDO advises against all travel within:  

• 20km of the border with Sudan 
• 10km of the border with South Sudan 
• 100km of the Ethiopian border with Somalia and Kenya in Ethiopia’s Somali region, and within 30km of the Ethiopian border with Somalia in Fafan zone, except the border town and crossing at Wajale, and the principal road between Jijiga and Wajale 
• 10km of the border with Kenya, except for principal roads and towns 
• 10km of the border with Eritrea 

Tigray region 

FCDO  advises against all travel to the Tigray region west of the Tekeze river and within 10km of the internal border with Amhara region.

FCDO advises against all but essential travel to the remainder of the Tigray region except the towns and connecting roads of Mekelle:

• southward to Maychew
• northwards to Adigrat
• west and north-westward to Abiy Addi, Adwa and Shire
• eastward to Abala on the Tigray-Afar border

Amhara region 

FCDO advises against all travel to Amhara region. 

Afar region 

FCDO advises against all travel to areas of Afar region within:  

Gambella region 

FCDO advises against all travel to Gambella region. 

Oromia region 

FCDO advises against all travel to these areas of Oromia region:  

• within 10km of the border with Kenya, except for principal roads and towns 
• north of (but not including) the A4 road in West Shewa zone 
• south and west of (but not including) the A3 road in North Shewa zone  
• West Wollega zone (including the main Addis Ababa to Gambella road), East Wollega zone, Kellem Wollega and Horo Gudru Wollega  

FCDO  advises against all but essential travel to:

• all of East Shewa zone except the Addis to Adama Expressway and 10km either side of the expressway between Addis Ababa and Bishoftu.
• the A4 road between Addis Ababa and Cheliya, except for the section in in the Finfine special zone.
• all of North Shewa Zone
• West Guji and Guji zones

Somali Regional State 

FCDO advises against all travel to within: 

• 100km of the Ethiopian border with Somalia and Kenya in Ethiopia’s Somali region  
• 30km of the Ethiopian border with Somalia in Fafan zone, except the border town and crossing at Wajale, and the principal road between Jijiga and Wajale 

FCDO advises against all but essential travel to:  

• the Siti zone 
• the Nogob (previously Fik) 
• Jarar (previously Degehabur) 
• Shabelle (previously Gode) 
• Korahe and Dollo (previously Warder) 
• areas of Liben and Afder zones more than 100km from the Somalia and Kenya borders 

Central, Southern, Sidama and South West regions (formerly SNNPR) 

FCDO advises against all travel: 

• within 10km of the borders with South Sudan and Kenya 

Benishangul-Gumuz region 

FCDO advises against all travel to these areas of Benishangul-Gumuz region: 

• within 20km of the border with Sudan 
• the Metekel zone and Maokomo special zone 

FCDO advises against all but essential travel to the rest of Benishangul-Gumuz region. 

Find out more about why FCDO advises against travel to these regions .

Before you travel 

No travel can be guaranteed safe. Read all the advice in this guide as well as support for British nationals abroad which includes:  

• general advice on preparing for travel abroad and reducing risks 
• information for women, LGBT+ and disabled travellers 

Follow and contact FCDO travel on Twitter , Facebook and Instagram . You can also sign up to get email notifications when this travel advice is updated.

Travel insurance 

If you choose to travel, research your destinations and get appropriate travel insurance . Insurance should cover your itinerary, planned activities and expenses in an emergency.  

This advice reflects the UK government’s understanding of current rules for people travelling on a full ‘British citizen’ passport from the UK, for the most common types of travel. 

The authorities in Ethiopia set and enforce entry rules. If you’re not sure how Ethiopia’s entry requirements apply to you, contact the Ethiopian Embassy in the UK . 

COVID-19 rules

There are no COVID-19 testing or vaccination requirements for passengers entering Ethiopia. 

Passport validity requirements 

Your passport must be: 

• valid for at least 6 months from the date you arrive in Ethiopia 
• machine-readable 

Visa requirements 

You need a visa and a valid travel document to enter Ethiopia, including a passport or emergency travel document (ETD). Visitors without valid documents can be detained and fined. 

You do not need a visa if you have a valid Ethiopian Diplomatic ID Card, Ethiopian Temporary Residents Permit or Ethiopian Origin ID (Yellow Cards).

Leave the country before your visa expires or get an official extension if needed. The penalty for overstaying is 10 US dollars a day. You will not be allowed to leave until you pay in full.  

Available visa lengths are 30 days or 90 days, with extensions available for an additional 30 or 90 days. 

Applying for a visa  

Get a visa from the official Ethiopian e-visa platform .   

If you visit Ethiopia on a tourist visa, you cannot take employment, including voluntary employment. If you break the rules, you can get heavy fines or be imprisoned. 

Vaccination requirements  

At least 8 weeks before your trip, check the vaccinations and vaccination certificates you may need in TravelHealthPro’s Ethiopia guide. You may need a yellow fever certificate.  

Customs rules 

There are strict rules about goods that can be brought into and taken out of Ethiopia.

If you plan to take in specialist equipment, the Ethiopian Embassy in London advises you check with your tour operator or local contact before you travel as special customs regulations may apply.  

Contact the Press Office for more information and advice .

Taking money into Ethiopia 

You can carry up to 3,000 Ethiopian birr when entering or leaving Ethiopia. An exception is when travelling to Djibouti from Ethiopia, in which case you can carry up to 10,000 birr. Your cash can be seized and you could get a prison sentence if you go over the limits. 

When you enter or leave Ethiopia, you must declare any cash over 10,000 US dollars (or equivalent in other currencies). Residents of Ethiopia, including resident British nationals, must declare any cash over 4,000 US dollars.

If you leave Ethiopia by airplane with cash above these amounts, you must show the customs declaration form you got when you entered Ethiopia, or the bank advice note if you purchased currency locally.  

If leaving by land with amounts over the stipulated limits, you must show the customs documents given when you arrived in the country. 

If entering Ethiopia through a land border you must declare cash over 500 US dollars (or equivalent). 

Keep your receipt if you change currency into birr. Without a receipt you are unlikely to be able to change leftover money back at the end of your trip.  

Terrorism  

There is a high threat of terrorist attack globally affecting UK interests and British nationals, including from groups and individuals who view the UK and British nationals as targets. You should remain vigilant at all times. 

UK Counter Terrorism Policing has information and advice on staying safe abroad and what to do in the event of a terrorist attack. Find out how to reduce your risk from terrorism while abroad . 

Terrorism in Ethiopia

Terrorists are very likely to try to carry out attacks in Ethiopia.

Attacks could be indiscriminate, including in places visited by foreigners, such as: 

• restaurants, hotels, bars and markets 
• stations and airports 
• places of worship and tourist attractions 
• festivals and sports venues  

Large crowds are common on key national and religious dates, including: 

• Ethiopian Christmas on 7 January  
• Epiphany or ’Timket’ in January  
• Victory of Adawa on 2 March 
• Ethiopian Patriots’ Victory Day on 5 May 
• Downfall of the Derg Regime on 28 May  
• Ethiopian New Year from 11 to 12 September  
• Birthday of the Prophet Mohammed on 27 September  
• Finding of the True Cross or ‘Meskel’ on 28 September 
• Ethiopian (Orthodox) Easter  
• Eid Al Fitr  
• Eid Al Arafa 

Parts of the country also have local festivals (often celebrating saints’ days) which can lead to large gatherings. 

Terrorist group Al-Shabaab, based in Somalia, poses a threat across East Africa. The group threatens all countries who have military forces in Somalia, including Ethiopia. In 2022, Al-Shabaab attacked the Somali towns of Aato, Yeed and Washaaqo, near the border with Ethiopia. Al-Shabaab has said it intends to commit further attacks in the area.

Political situation 

Conflict and violence  .

Between November 2020 and November 2022, conflict took place in the northern regions of Ethiopia, in particular in Tigray but also in Amhara and Afar.

The Government of Ethiopia and the Tigray People’s Liberation Front signed a peace agreement to cease hostilities in Tigray in November 2022. Disarmament and reconstruction measures have begun. The situation in Tigray is still fragile and there may still be isolated armed incidents. 

In August 2023, a state of emergency was imposed after conflict started between Amhara militia groups (Fano) and the Ethiopian National Defence Force. Conflict continues in Amhara region.  

There have been increased tensions and violence between armed groups and the security forces across Oromia region. 

Unrest can occur with no notice. There are ongoing armed clashes between ethnic groups. Foreigners have not been targeted. However you should: 

• monitor local media 
• follow the advice of local authorities and your tour operator 
• reconsider travel to affected areas 

Avoid large gatherings and demonstrations. Comply with the law, including in relation to carrying ID cards, and possession of foreign currency and weapons. Avoid confrontation and follow the instructions of the authorities. 

Strikes and protests

Because of frequent civil unrest, including protests and strikes, there is frequently:

• temporary closure of roads, internet and mobile networks
• disruption to local businesses and transport

In the past some protests have escalated into serious violence.  

There is a risk of kidnapping in Ethiopia’s Somali region and on the southern border with Kenya. This is particularly the case in the eastern areas where FCDO advises against all travel.  

There have been a number of recent kidnappings in Oromia, and especially within the Adama special Zone south of Addis Ababa. There is also threat of kidnapping in western areas of Oromia region, particularly West Wollega, East Wollega and Qellem Wollega zones. British nationals working in the area should avoid regular patterns of travel or movement and aim to only travel during daylight hours.

Stay vigilant at all times. Make sure you carefully consider the threat and have reasonable, proportionate mitigation measures in place. People engaged in humanitarian aid work, journalism or business sectors are viewed as legitimate targets. If you’re kidnapped, the reason for your presence is unlikely to protect you or secure your safe release.

Detention of British nationals 

There have been a small number of cases of arbitrary detention of British nationals in Ethiopia. The risk may increase if tensions are heightened around major events, or in locations that are sensitive for security reasons. Carry photocopies of your passport and contact details of the British Embassy Addis Ababa in case you are questioned or detained. Your physical passport is not necessary.

Ethiopian authorities do not always notify embassies when foreign nationals are detained. Even if requested, adequate consular access is not always provided. If authorities do not inform the embassy, ask family or friends to contact the British Embassy.

Foreign nationals can be targeted by groups of youths through pickpocketing and scams. 

Theft and mugging is on the rise. There has been a smaller number of more serious incidents, including sexual harassment of women. Violent robberies can occur in parks and walking sites in Addis Ababa. 

Protecting your belongings 

Take care of your belongings when visiting crowded public places, especially at night. Be vigilant if strangers approach you. Criminal gangs use distraction techniques including begging, spitting, spilling food and drink, and feigning illness.  

There is a risk of pickpocketing, bag and jewellery snatching, including from vehicles at traffic lights. 

When travelling in vehicles, you should: 

• keep belongings with you 
• keep valuables out of sight 
• keep vehicle doors locked 
• park in well-lit and guarded areas such as hotels, government and tourist locations, which all have security at their entrances 
• consider fitting anti-shatter film to all windows (we do not recommend short term visitors modify their hire vehicles) 

If threatened, hand over valuables without resistance. 

Laws and cultural differences 

Health and safety .

Health and safety precautions like life jackets in boats or protective railings at historical sites are rarely in place in Ethiopia. 

Date and time 

Traditionally Ethiopia has a different calendar and way of expressing time than are widely used internationally.  

Most hotels and larger organisations’ documents, including airline tickets, use the international calendar and clock. However: 

• official documents are often dated using the Ethiopian calendar 
• individuals and smaller organisations might use the Ethiopian clock 

Ethiopia is a cash-based society. Banking facilities, including card payments and ATMs are limited, especially outside of cities. It is not normally possible to get a cash advance. Make sure you have enough cash before leaving cities. 

Illegal drugs and prison sentences 

Drug offences are treated seriously in Ethiopia. Possession of drugs can lead to prison sentences of 5 to 10 years and potentially large fines.  

Khat is legal in Ethiopia but it is illegal to take it out of the country. Bags are regularly searched at Addis Ababa Bole Airport. Anyone found with khat is likely to be prosecuted.

There are no restrictions on buying or possessing alcohol. This includes the predominantly Muslim regions although it may be more difficult to obtain.   

Religious customs 

Ethiopia is religiously diverse and largely tolerant. However, many people are devout in their faith. Take care to not offend local traditions, customs, laws and religions. Dress conservatively and observe local customs. Take particular care if travelling: 

• during the Islamic holy month of Ramadan 
• to religious sites of the Ethiopian Orthodox Church 
• outside Addis Ababa, particularly in rural areas 

Ramadan is individually observed but there are no official regulations imposed. 

Women travellers 

Women are expected to dress conservatively, especially when visiting religious sites. 

LGBT+ travellers 

Same-sex acts (applying to both sexes) are illegal and carry penalties of between 1 and 15 years imprisonment. It is reported that the local authorities are intimidating owners and clients of hotels, bars and restaurants in Addis Ababa where same-sex activity is alleged to take place.

The public are not generally accepting of same-sex relationships. Some religious leaders have called for violence against the LGBT+ community. Be aware of local laws and customs. Showing affection in public may receive unwanted attention.  

Read more advice for LGBT+ travellers . 

Imports and exports 

You need an export certificate to take antiques out of the country. Without one your items are likely to be confiscated and you could be prosecuted. 

Owning ivory is illegal. British nationals have had ivory jewellery confiscated and been fined up to 25,000 Ethiopian birr. 

Using cameras in secure areas 

It is illegal to take photos: 

• near military zones or of military personnel 
• near the Presidential Palace in Addis Ababa 
• where signs prohibit photography 

Satellite phones and binoculars 

Satellite phones and binoculars cannot be imported or exported to or from Ethiopia without prior approval from the Customs and Information Network and Security Agency. Get advice from your travel provider on permissions required.

Unapproved items can be confiscated by authorities, with the possibility of being able to collect them on departure from Ethiopia, but this is not guaranteed. 

The importation and use of drones within Ethiopia is subject to permission by the Ethiopian Civil Aviation Authority and Information Network and Security Agency. Without written clearance drones can be subject to confiscation at airports or borders. 

Transport risks

Rural areas  .

When travelling outside Addis Ababa, avoid driving after dark. Vehicles often have no lights and livestock may roam on roads.  

There have been instances where buses from one region have been attacked when passing through another.  

Medical facilities outside the capital are extremely limited so carry a comprehensive medical pack. 

While mobile telephone services are increasingly widespread, connectivity cannot be guaranteed. Mobile internet can be closed down with no notice. 

You might want to consider travelling in a group and leaving details of your travel itinerary with a reliable person. 

Cars and motorbikes  

Driving standards and vehicle maintenance are often poor and traffic accidents happen regularly, especially in Addis Ababa and on the Addis Ababa-Djibouti road.  

Drivers involved in car accidents can face severe punishments, including custodial sentences and fines. If you’re involved in a traffic accident, stay in your vehicle and call the local police. Avoid confrontation and wait for police to arrive to deal with any issues. 

Localised demonstrations have led to temporary road closures or the targeting of public transport. However, not all social media reports of such disruptions are accurate. If unsure, contact local authorities or reputable tour operators in the areas you’re travelling to. 

If you meet a roadblock, follow advice of local authorities if they are present. If you encounter an unattended roadblock, turn around and do not attempt to pass it. 

This section has safety advice for regions of Ethiopia. It only covers regions where FCDO has specific advice.

You should also read FCDO ’s overall travel advice and safety and security advice for Ethiopia.

Travellers may face increased scrutiny, particularly those of Amhara, Tigrayan or Oromo ethnicity, including at the airport and through direct police operations such as check points and door-to-door checks. There are reports of ethnic Tigrayans being prevented from boarding flights at Bole International Airport.

Comply with the law, including in relation to carrying ID cards, and possession of foreign currency and weapons. Avoid confrontation and follow the instructions of the authorities.

There is petty theft around Bole International Airport, particularly pickpockets and bag snatchers.

Only use buses or taxis from the airport that have been organised by your hotel or travel company, or choose yellow or app-based taxis rather than the blue and white ones.

There has been an increase in reported crime against expats and Ethiopian nationals in these areas of Addis Ababa:

• Bole Medhanealem
• Meskel Square

Attacks have included knifepoint robberies and the choking unconscious of victims. Do not travel alone in these areas if possible. Be cautious if travelling on foot. Consider using road transport where possible, especially after dark.

International border areas

FCDO advises against all travel within:

• 20km of the border with Sudan
• 10km of the border with South Sudan
• 100km of the Ethiopian border with Somalia and Kenya in Ethiopia’s Somali region, and within 30km of the Ethiopian border with Somalia in Fafan zone, except the border town and crossing at Wajale, and the principal road between Jijiga and Wajale
• 10km of the border with Kenya, except for principal roads and towns
• 10km of the border with Eritrea

Tigray region

In November 2022, the Government of Ethiopia and the Tigray People’s Liberation Front signed a peace agreement to cease hostilities in Tigray. Disarmament and reconstruction measures have begun. The situation in Tigray is still fragile and there may still be isolated armed incidents. There may be restrictions on travel between towns and cities in Tigray, and on travel outside of Tigray.

There is also a risk of unexploded weapons remaining in Tigray region.

Amhara region

FCDO advises against all travel to all of Amhara regional state.

There have been violent protests and clashes between security forces in Amhara since April 2023, resulting in an unknown number of deaths including of 2 NGO workers.

Violence has increased due to conflict between a local militia group (Fano) and the Ethiopian National Defence Force (ENDF). In August 2023, a state of emergency was imposed with fighting taking place across all of Amhara region. Violence could emerge without warning. Travellers are at risk of being caught in crossfire. There have been reports of airstrikes being used in Amhara region.

The Ethiopian government announced a nightly curfew in the cities of Bahir Dar, Debre Markos, Debre Birhan, Lalibela, Gondar and Shewa Robit until 23 August. There is also a ban on 3-wheeled (Bajaj) and motorcycle transport in those cities.

There have been reports of incidents along the Addis Ababa to Bahir Dar (A3) road, including armed men attacking vehicles. Attacks usually take place in the early hours when visibility is poor. Be highly cautious and avoid travelling when visibility is poor. The A3 road can be subject to increased checkpoints and closure by the ENDF.

Some flights across northern Ethiopia could be suspended or cancelled at short notice. Domestic and international land borders may be closed. Mobile networks and internet connections may be disrupted. You should monitor local media for further information and comply with local authority instructions.

There have been sporadic, violent clashes between armed groups in Amhara and in areas bordering Oromia region, including in urban centres. As these are not contained to specific areas, be cautious when travelling throughout Amhara. Situations can escalate quickly.

Political disputes in the districts (‘woredas’) of Tsegede, Mirab Armacho and Tach Armacho have previously turned violent. Clashes have occurred around Chilga Woreda and Central Gondar zone, with reports of fatalities including civilians. While attacks are mostly related to inter-ethnic disputes and foreigners have not been targeted, attacks can occur at any time with significant risk of being caught up in violence. If you’re travelling in the area, monitor local media and follow the advice of local authorities and your tour operator.

There has been an increase in roadblocks across Amhara region.

Afar region

FCDO advises against all travel to areas of Afar region within:

There are irregular armed clashes between ethnic groups in Hanruka, Gela’alo, Gewane, and Adaytu woredas of Afar and the bordering areas of Somali Regional State and Dire Dawa. There are reports of road closures and roadblocks in the area, including on the main Addis Ababa to Djibouti road.

Danakil desert

If you plan to visit the Danakil desert area, be aware of the risk of excessive heat and difficult terrain in some areas, including around the Erta Ale volcano. Facilities are basic, with no running water and limited medical options.

Tourism in the area has been targeted by armed groups in 2007, 2012 and 2017. Only travel to this area with a recognised tour company. When booking, check that your group will be supported by an armed police or military escort.

Gambella region

FCDO advises against all travel to the Gambella region.

Large-scale violence, inter-communal clashes and armed attacks occur regularly. While foreigners have not been targeted, there’s a significant risk of being caught up in violence.

Oromia region

FCDO advises against all travel to these areas of Oromia region:

• within 10km of the border with Kenya, except for principal roads and towns
• north of (but not including) the A4 road in West Shewa zone
• south and west of (but not including) the A3 road in North Shewa zone

West Wollega zone (including the main Addis Ababa to Gambella road), East Wollega zone, Kellem Wollega and Horo Gudru Wollega

FCDO advises against all but essential travel to:

• all of East Shewa zone except the road and 10km either side of the road between Addis Ababa and Bishoftu.
• the A5 road and 10km either side of the road between Addis Ababa and Welkite.
• 10km south of the A4 road between Addis Ababa and Cheliya.

Increased tensions and armed groups

From 12pm Sunday 28 January 2024, there may be disruption to travel and operation of businesses and services in the Oromia region. The Oromo Youth Liberation Movement have called for market bans (for traders and anyone buying products) and a transportation blockade in Oromia, including on the roads leading to Addis Ababa.

In West and North Shewa zone there have been reports of attacks on vehicles travelling on the A1 road, between Adama and Awash, though not targeting international travellers.

There were reports in October 2023 of air strikes against armed groups in West Shewa. These could take place in a range of locations without notice. You should be extremely cautious when travelling in the West Shewa zone, particularly in rural areas.

There have been repeated and serious instances of violence in West Wollega, East Wollega, Kellem Wollega and Horo Gudru Wollega. This has included clashes between armed groups and security forces, violent crime and roadside attacks.

There are increased tensions and violence between armed groups and the security forces across Oromia region, particularly Shewa, Haraghe and Guji zones. Avoid military, police and security installations. Be extremely cautious and follow advice of local authorities.

Since late 2022, there has been an increase in incidents between armed groups in Oromia. These have mainly been reported in rural areas and areas bordering Amhara region. Incidents are not contained to specific areas. Be cautious when travelling, particularly between urban centres. The situation can escalate quickly.

Some protests have turned violent and resulted in casualties. There has also been severe disruption to road travel including major roads to and from Addis Ababa.

Protests and demonstrations occur periodically in towns across the Oromia region. Towns in the Wollega and Shewa zones, and West Arsi zone, including Ambo, Wolissa, Nekemte and Shashemene, have been particularly affected. Demonstrations have also taken place elsewhere including in the Bale zone to the south-east.

In some instances, international investors have been threatened, although the British Embassy is not aware of foreign tourists having been targeted.

Ethiopian Somali Region

FCDO advises against all travel to within:

• 100km of the Ethiopian border with Somalia and Kenya in the Afder and Liben zones of Ethiopia’s Somali region
• 30km of the Ethiopian border with Somalia in Fafan zone, except the border town and crossing at Wajale, and the principal road between Jijiga and Wajale
• the Siti zone
• the Nogob (previously Fik)
• Jarar (previously Degehabur)
• Shabelle (previously Gode)
• Korahe and Dollo (previously Warder)
• the Fafan zone
• areas of Liben and Afder zones more than 100km from the Somalia and Kenya borders

There are irregular armed clashes between ethnic groups in Hanruka, Gela’alo, Gewane, and Adaytu woredas of Afar region and the bordering areas of Somali Regional State and Dire Dawa.

There is local instability, lawlessness, military activity and a general risk of banditry in the Somali Region. Insurgent groups, some affiliated with terrorist organisations, have clashed with government forces. Foreigners have been caught up in the violence or targeted. There have also been attacks on staff working for international non-governmental organisations.

Central, Southern, Sidama and South West regions (formerly SNNPR)

FCDO advises against all travel:

• within 10km of the borders with South Sudan and Kenya

Due to recent regional cluster changes, there have been instances of civil unrest as zones increasingly demand their own regional statehood. There has been civil unrest in Gurage zone in the newly formed Central region. A number of incidents have turned violent.

Benishangul-Gumuz region

FCDO advises against all travel to these areas of the Benishangul-Gumuz region:

• within 20km of the border with Sudan
• the Metekel zone and Maokomo special zone

FCDO advises against all but essential travel to the rest of Benishangul-Gumuz region.

There is risk of armed clashes at near the border with Sudan.

Local tensions have led to frequent and unpredictable violent clashes, including reported abductions and deaths. There have been instances of civil unrest in and around Assosa.

Before you travel check that: 

• your destination can provide the healthcare you may need 
• you have appropriate travel insurance for local treatment or unexpected medical evacuation 

This is particularly important if you have a health condition or are pregnant. 

Emergency medical number 

Dial 907 and ask for an ambulance. 

Contact your insurance company promptly if you’re referred to a medical facility for treatment. 

Vaccinations and health risks 

At least 8 weeks before your trip check: 

• the latest information on health risks and what vaccinations you need in TravelHealthPro’s Ethiopia guide
• where to get vaccines and whether you have to pay on the NHS travel vaccinations page   

Altitude sickness is a risk in parts of Ethiopia, including Addis Ababa. TravelHealthPro’s altitude sickness guidance has more information. 

Other health risks 

UK health authorities have classified Ethiopia as having a risk of Zika virus transmission.  

Malaria is common in areas of the country below 2,000 metres above sea level. Addis Ababa sits at 2,400 metres but a number of sites popular with tourists are below 2,000. 

Bilharzia is present in the vast majority of lakes in Ethiopia – check before swimming. 

Water-borne diseases are common. Drink or use only boiled or bottled water and avoid ice in drinks. 

There is an ongoing outbreak of cholera in the south of Ethiopia, and new cases have been reported in the north west of the country.  

For more information and advice on health risks in Ethiopia, visit the National Travel Health Network and Centre .

Medication 

The legal status and regulation of some medicines prescribed or bought in the UK can be different in other countries. 

Read best practice when travelling with medicines on TravelHealthPro . 

The NHS has information on whether you can take your medicine abroad . 

Healthcare facilities in Ethiopia 

Only private hospitals in Addis Ababa offer a reasonable standard of basic care for minor health problems. Dentistry is especially scarce. Ambulance services are also limited. Outside the capital, medical facilities are extremely poor. Carry a comprehensive medical pack when travelling out of Addis Ababa.  

FCDO has a list of English-speaking doctors in Ethiopia.   

COVID-19 healthcare in Ethiopia 

There are private healthcare facilities used by the international community with the capability to respond to COVID-19, but capacity is limited.  

Travel and mental health 

Read FCDO guidance on travel and mental health . There is also mental health guidance on TravelHealthPro . 

The Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office ( FCDO ) cannot provide tailored advice for individual trips. Read this travel advice and carry out your own research before deciding whether to travel. 

Emergency services in Ethiopia 

Police and emergency: 911 

Ambulance (Addis Ababa): 907 

Contact your travel provider and insurer 

Contact your travel provider and your insurer if you are involved in a serious incident or emergency abroad. They will tell you if they can help and what you need to do. 

Refunds and changes to travel 

For refunds or changes to travel, contact your travel provider. You may also be able to make a claim through insurance. However, insurers usually require you to talk to your travel provider first. 

Find out more about changing or cancelling travel plans , including: 

• where to get advice if you are in a dispute with a provider 
• how to access previous versions of travel advice to support a claim 

Support from FCDO   

FCDO has guidance on staying safe and what to do if you need help or support abroad, including:  

• finding English-speaking lawyers , funeral directors  and translators and interpreters in Ethiopia  
• dealing with a   death in Ethiopia  
• being  arrested or imprisoned in Ethiopia    
• getting help if you’re a  victim of crime   
• what to do if you’re in hospital   
• if you’re affected by a crisis   

Contacting FCDO  

Follow and contact FCDO travel on Twitter , Facebook and Instagram . You can also sign up to get email notifications when this travel advice is updated. 

Help abroad in an emergency 

If you are abroad and you need emergency help from the UK government, contact the British Embassy Addis Ababa . 

The current political and security situation means the consular support the British Embassy in Addis Ababa can provide may be limited.  

You can also contact FCDO online . 

FCDO in London  

You can call FCDO in London if you need urgent help because something has happened to a friend or relative abroad. 

Telephone: 020 7008 5000 (24 hours) 

Find out about call charges  

Risk information for British companies 

The Overseas Business Risk service  offers information and advice for British companies operating overseas on how to manage political, economic, and business security-related risks. 

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When you think of Lalibela, you're thinking of Bet Giyorgis. Resting off on its own, St George’s Church is Lalibela’s masterpiece. Representing the apogee…

Abuna Yemata Guh

Rock-hewn Churches of Tigray

There's nowhere on earth quite like Abuna Yemata Guh. Although less impressive architecturally than most, the church is spectacularly sited within a cliff…

Simien Mountains National Park

Northern Ethiopia

No matter how you look at it, the Unesco World Heritage–listed Simien Mountains National Park is one of Africa’s most beautiful ranges. This massive…

Northern Stelae Field

Despite the dizzying grandeur of the numerous rock needles reaching for the stars, it’s what’s under your feet here that’s most important. Amazingly,…

Ethnological Museum

Addis Ababa

Set within Haile Selassie’s former palace, and surrounded by the beautiful gardens and fountains of the university’s main campus, is the enthralling…

Debre Damo is one of Ethiopia's most important monasteries and is thought to date back to Aksumite times and the 6th-century reign of King Gebre Meskel…

National Museum

The collection on show at the National Museum is ranked among the most important in sub-Saharan Africa, but sadly many of its exhibits are poorly labelled…

Connected to Bet Medhane Alem by a tunnel is a large courtyard containing three churches. The first, Bet Maryam, is small, yet designed and decorated to…

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Few countries are so obscured by misconception as Ethiopia. Associated by most outsiders with drought and famine and often presumed to be a tract of featureless desert, it is in reality one of the wettest, most fertile and most scenically beautiful countries in Africa.

Fact file Ethiopia

Where to go in ethiopia.

• According to a government projection based on the 2007 census, Ethiopia’s population stands at 89 million, making it the second most populous country in Africa (after Nigeria) and fourteenth in the world. Surprisingly, the only Ethiopian city to top the 500,000 mark is Addis Ababa, home to almost four million people.
• At 1,104,300 square kilometres, Ethiopia is similar in size to Spain, Portugal and continental France combined.
• Around 62 percent of Ethiopians are Christian , with two-thirds being members of the Ethiopian Orthodox Church. Muslims account for 34 percent of the population, and the remainder adhere to traditional animist beliefs.
• The Ethiopian Highlands lie mostly above an elevation of 2000m, and form the most extensive montane region in Africa. At the other end of the spectrum, the Danakil Depression , which dips to 116m below sea level, is one of the lowest (and hottest) points on Earth.
• At least ninety different languages are spoken. Dominant are Oromo (a Cushitic tongue) and Amharic (part of the Semitic group), the first language of respectively 34 percent and 30 percent of the population.
• Ethiopia was formerly known – mainly outside of the country – as Abyssinia . Specifically associated with the former Christian empire of the north-central Ethiopian Highlands, the term is seldom used today as it is perceived to exclude Islamic and other non-Orthodox Ethiopians.
• In 1930, Evelyn Waugh was dispatched to Ethiopia to cover the coronation of Haile Selassie. The trip informed several of his writings, most overtly the 1936 travelogue Waugh in Abyssinia . Another literary figure associated with Ethiopia is the suffragette and anti-colonialist Sylvia Pankhurst , who received a state funeral in Addis Ababa on her death in 1960.

Remembered for the murderous communist regime that held power in the 1970s and 1980s, and too often lumped together with its war-torn neighbours Sudan and Somalia, in reality Ethiopia is a peaceful, functioning democracy cohabited by two of the world’s oldest, and most mutually tolerant, Christian and Islamic communities.

It’s also a profoundly underrated travel destination. Perched at the cultural crossroads of East Africa and Arabia, it represents a unique and fascinating fusion of African and Middle Eastern influences reflecting a long, eventful (and as yet only half-understood) history that stretches back many thousands of years – indeed, a plethora of fossil evidence suggests that the prehistory of Ethiopia goes back to the very beginning of human existence. As a result, the country boasts a wealth of historical sites without parallel in sub-Saharan Africa. Most famous among these are the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela, the stelae fields at Aksum and the stone castles of Gondar, but this celebrated trio of UNESCO World Heritage Sites is supplemented by hundreds of other lesser-known churches, ruins and other historic places.

Ethiopia is also arguably the continent’s most consistently scenic country, dominated by a high central plateau that falls away abruptly into the chasm of the Great Rift Valley. The Ethiopian Highlands are truly breathtaking, a succession of spectacular mountain panoramas embracing lush grassy meadows, tangled forests, sparkling lakes and towering rock amphitheatres. Equally grand, stretching down towards the Kenyan border, is the string of beautiful lakes that characterize the southern Rift Valley. Altogether different, and seldom visited by tourists, are the thinly populated volcanic badlands that stretch east through the searing plains of the northern Rift Valley to the remote Somali border. And although Ethiopia is not a conventional safari destination in the mould of, say, Tanzania or Kenya, it does offer some unique and thoroughly rewarding wildlife viewing opportunities. Numerous species of large mammals, such as the gelada monkey, Walia ibex and Ethiopian wolf, occur nowhere else in the world, while a tally of fifty endemic or near-endemic bird species places it high on the list of Africa’s top birding destinations.

Ethiopia and its people today retain the fiery independence of spirit that made it the only state to emerge uncolonized from the nineteenth-century Scramble for Africa. In many respects, it is like nowhere else on earth. Ethiopia’s spicy food is totally unique. So too are Ethiopian music and dancing, the script of Ethiopia’s Amharic language, and that quirky variation on familiar Christianity represented by the Ethiopian Orthodox Church. Never the easiest place to travel, Ethiopia, more than most countries, often pushes travellers outside their comfort zone. But it is also a country whose uniqueness and inherent peculiarity imbues every day spent there with an aura of adventure and discovery.

All international flights land at the capital, Addis Ababa , which lies right in the centre of Ethiopia and forms the hub of the internal transport network, ensuring that most visitors spend some time there. Fortunately, Addis Ababa is a thoroughly enjoyable city to experience, whether you are cruising the markets, sampling the nightlife or taking in its historical churches and the fascinating National Museum.

The vast size of Ethiopia (and nature of its domestic transport networks) means that the country is usually explored in the form of one or more loops by road or air out of Addis Ababa. The most popular of these is the northern historical circuit, which has four acknowledged high points. First of these is Bahir Dar and the scenic Lake Tana region, with its ancient island monasteries. Not far to the north, the former capital of Gondar is best known for its European-influenced castles and painted churches. Predating these by several centuries, the towering stelae and ruined palaces that stud the ancient city of Aksum transport the visitor deep into Ethiopia’s fascinating past. Last – but far from least – are the astonishing medieval rock-hewn churches of Lalibela, still active places of worship and widely agreed to be the most arresting of all Ethiopia’s sights.

Although historic sightseeing predominates, the northern circuit also offers some scintillating natural phenomena, from the Blue Nile Falls – magnificent in the rainy season – to the hiker-friendly Simien Mountains National Park, with its rugged peaks and remarkable endemic wildlife. For those seeking a more off-the-beaten-track experience, the dozens of isolated rock-hewn churches scattered throughout the remote cliffs of northeast Tigrai remain an undersubscribed delight if you’re willing to put the time and effort into reaching them.

History takes a back seat to nature in southern Ethiopia, which is bisected by a scenic stretch of the Rift Valley that’s spangled with beautiful, bird-rich lakes. The little-visited highlands rising to the east of the Rift are capped by the Bale Mountains, protected in a national park whose varied habitats – embracing tussocked Afro-alpine moorlands, green grassy meadows, dense bamboo thickets and misty evergreen forests – protect the country’s most diverse selection of endemic mammals and birds.

Where the northern highlands are dominated by a few closely related Ethiopian Orthodox ethnic groups, Ethiopia’s full cultural and religious diversity is on show in the south and east. The walled citadel of Harar in the southeastern highlands is among the most ancient and holy of Islamic cities. Most compelling of all in cultural terms is the South Omo region, which lies in the remote southwest, close to the border with Kenya, and supports at least a dozen different tribes whose ethnic and linguistic diversity is as breathtaking as their proudly defiant adherence to their own pagan traditions.

Top image © Dr. Gilad Fiskus/Shutterstock

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written by Andy Turner

updated 26.04.2021

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Home » Africa » EPIC Backpacking Ethiopia Travel Guide (2024)

EPIC Backpacking Ethiopia Travel Guide (2024)

Would you be up to traveling 7 years back in time? What about experiencing the sunrise at 1 am?

Ethiopia is a unique and magical country. They have their own calendar (they are right now in 2015), hours (they start counting from sunrise) and religion (Ethiopian Orthodox), and it is home to more than 90 ethnic groups and 80 languages. 

If you are willing to know Ethiopia beyond the horrible events that have affected it over the last decades, you will discover a country with a history that dates back to more than 3,000 thousand years ago, which is not particularly common in Sub-saharan Africa, and with some of the most astonishing historical and natural sites in the world. 

Nonetheless, Ethiopia is a country that has been severely affected by poverty, armed conflicts and political instability, which have made backpacking Ethiopia a challenging experience. Hence, traveling to Ethiopia is not for everyone. 

Only for those of you who believe that adventure and getting out of the comfort zone are essential parts in life, I have prepared this detailed Ethiopia travel guide to help you embark on one of the most remarkable experiences of your life.

Let’s get to it.

Who Go Backpacking in Ethiopia?

Ethiopia is, together with Liberia, the only country in Africa that was never colonized. This is a huge source of pride for Ethiopians and has allowed the country to maintain its culture and traditions isolated from colonial influence. It also makes traveling in Ethiopia feel like you are getting into a completely different world.

I have lived in Ethiopia for more than five months and I can assure you that it doesn’t matter how much time you spend there, Ethiopia will keep on surprising you until the day you leave.

Traveling around Ethiopia is an experience full of emotions. You will witness huge economic differences and chaos. You will constantly be stared at. You will experience the high levels of religiosity and mysticism that govern Ethiopian society. You will enjoy a radically unique gastronomy. And, above all, you will experience enormous diversity.

History in the north, tribes in the south, and Islamic influence in the east, all surrounded by magnificent landscapes and natural attractions, make Ethiopia the perfect travel destination for those who like to avoid monotony in their trips.

Best Travel Itineraries for Backpacking Ethiopia

Ethiopia is a huge country of the size of France and Spain combined. The vast amount of amazing sites to visit and the depth of its diverse culture and its ancient history would allow you to spend several months in the country without having discovered half of it. 

The northern part of Ethiopia is more historical, although it also has some natural attractions like the Simien Mountains and the Danakil Depression, while the southern part of the country may be better for serious adventure travelers willing to immerse more into the wildlife and the tribes Ethiopia is home to.

10-Days Travel Itinerary for Ethiopia – The Historical North

It must be said that 10 days are not enough to visit the whole country, however, with this itinerary through the northern part of Ethiopia, you can get a strong idea about its culture and the ancient history that has shaped the country in such a unique manner. The itinerary is reduced to the Amhara region , which was home to the different Ethiopian capital cities and kings for centuries.

If you access Ethiopia by plane, which is the most common and recommended way to enter the country, every trip will start in Addis Ababa . Even though there may not be too many astonishing attractions in Addis, I would recommend spending at least one day until you head on to the next destination. 

It is possible to reach Bahir Dar by public transportation, however, with a constrained calendar it may be better to get there by plane as it can easily take a whole day to reach it. From there, you can move from one place to another with public buses or hire a driver to take you around. 

I would spend at least a whole day in Bahir Dar and Gondar and then spend at least two whole days both in the Simien Mountains and Lalibela . In the latter, it would be recommendable to save a day to hike to the monasteries in the area, although you can see even more if you have time. 

I wouldn’t recommend spending less than 10 days in Ethiopia.

18-Days Travel Itinerary for Ethiopia – The Historical North & The East

This itinerary adds two more destinations to the previous one. 

From Lalibela, you could head on by public transportation to Semera , where all the organized trips to the Danakil Depression are currently starting. Organized trips are compulsory to visit Danakil Depression and they usually vary from 1 to 4 nights.

Depending on your interest and time and budget constraints, I would advise going for the 2 or 3 nights tours. Before the Tigray conflict started, it was also possible to start organized trips from Mekele.

The trip will take you back to Semera from where you can take a long bus ride to Harar , where you can explore the city and embark in the available activities for one or two days. There is no airport in Harar, however, Dire Dawa , the second largest city in the country is close and you can fly back to Addis from there. 

1-Month Travel Itinerary for Ethiopia – The Whole Country

This itinerary includes the previous one and the southern part of the country and it will allow you to fully explore the huge cultural diversity existing within Ethiopian society. This itinerary can also serve those more interested in exploring the southern part of Ethiopia.

Regardless of whether you have already done the northern itinerary or just arrived in the country, to explore the south, you should start in Addis . This itinerary is done for those willing to travel this area by land and willing to spend between 10 and 14 days.

Nonetheless, the main motivation to travel to this area is usually to reach Arba Minch or Jinka , where you can access tribal and wildlife experiences. Therefore, it is also possible to access these two cities directly by plane and spend the whole time there. 

If going by land it would be recommendable to spend one night both in Langano and Awasha and at least a couple of them in the Bale Mountains, the place in the country where it’s easier to spot the Ethiopian Wolf. 

On your way south, you can also visit the Rastafari community of Shashamane , although it is not 100% advisable due to reported incidents towards tourists. 

Once in Arba Minch and Jinka, it is generally compulsory to hire a tour operator to embark on tribal experiences, usually located inside the National Parks.

To go back to Addis, you can fly from both cities.

Best Places to Visit in Ethiopia

Backpacking Ethiopia is all about experiencing the enormous diversity and uniqueness of its different destinations.

From walking through its vibrant capital city to being completely unable to communicate in isolated villages, Ethiopia offers attractions for all kinds of preferences and is a true treat for slow travelers .

Backpacking Addis Ababa

Addis, as the locals refer to it, is known to be the diplomatic capital of Africa as it hosts the African Union headquarters. Even though it may not have the most beautiful sites, I would recommend spending at least one or two days exploring the city. Compared to other African capital cities it is relatively safe to walk around.

The main attractions in Addis would be the National Museum, the Ethnological Museum, and, of course, Merkato , the biggest open-air market in Africa, where you can wander around its busy narrow streets and experience the life of the country’s trade center. Addis also offers the best nightlife and gastronomical options in the whole country.

Backpacking Lalibela

Probably the most important tourist attraction in the whole country. However, it must be said that its popularity is well deserved. It’s one of those destinations that will appeal to everyone from hardcore budget backpackers to luxury tour groups.

The town of Lalibela is home to a group of 11 rock-hewn churches from the 12th century. These churches were carved from the ground and, hence, built from top to bottom. They were built underground so that the enemies wouldn’t be able to spot them from a long distance.

Besides its beauty and historical interest, what makes Lalibela unique and different from other historical attractions is that it continues to have a high degree of religious activity. While visiting Lalibela you will encounter hundreds of pilgrims and priests praying and camping in the churches’ compound. Just remember to take off your shoes before entering a church.

Backpacking Gondar

The historical city of Gondar is located in the northwest of the country and it will be the first relatively big city you will find if you are entering Ethiopia by land from Sudan. 

Gondar was the capital city of the Kingdom of Abyssinia until the second half of the 19th century and it’s home to the Fasil Ghebbi citadel where the successive kings since the 17th century built their castles.

It is not necessary to spend more than one day in Gondar and it’s a perfect stopover on your way to the Simien Mountains National Park.

Backpacking Simien Mountains

The “Roof of Africa”, as it is also known, is an extensive National Park with more than a dozen peaks with a height of more than 4,000 meters. It is also home to Ethiopian endemic animals like the walia, the gelada monkey and the Ethiopian wolf.

The Simien Mountains are located 2 hours north from Gondar by car. It is highly recommendable to spend at least one night camping in the national park in order to enjoy sunrise and sunset treks. However, it is possible to extend the trek up to a week and reach Ras Dashen’s peak, the highest mountain in Ethiopia.

It is compulsory to be accompanied by a scout during your stay in the Simien Mountains and it is also recommendable to hire a guide who knows the National Park, especially if you are not planning to stay too much time inside, as it has a wide range of alternative paths that can led you to end up a bit lost.

Backpacking Bahir Dar

Located on the south coast of Lake Tana, the biggest lake in Ethiopia, Bahir Dar is the third biggest town in the country and is the capital city of the Amhara region. The main attraction in Bahir Dar is the monastery islands inside of the lake, where you can see how priests devote their time to their spiritual duties in an incredibly charming and isolated environment.

While in Bahir Dar, it is also recommendable to go on a one-hour drive to the Blue Nile Falls. The best time to visit the falls is during the rainy season, when the falls are wider and more powerful, and the landscape surrounding them is greener. Nonetheless, they can also be visited during the rest of the year but before going it is advisable to check out if the activity of the dam nearby is shortening the water supply to the falls.

Besides these attractions, Bahir Dar is a charming city with the comforts of a metropolitan area but without the overwhelm that you may find in Addis Ababa.

Backpacking Danakil Depression

This area located in the Afar region some 15 km away from the border with Eritrea, in the northeast of Ethiopia, is considered the most inhospitable place on Earth because of its high temperatures (usually around 50º degrees Celsius) and the presence of active volcanoes and high quantities of sulfur. 

However, a trip to the Danakil Depression also offers the opportunity to immerse in one of the most unique landscapes in the world. You will be able to see the work of the rough Afar miners in the salt lakes, the picturesque colors of Dallol, and the active Erta Ale volcano.

The inhospitality of the region makes it compulsory to be accompanied by armed scouts during your visit to the Danakil Depression. In addition, the trip involves long driving hours through a difficult environment. Hence, you should organize your trip to Danakil with a travel company, which will start the trip from Mekele (currently not available because of the conflict situation in Tigray) or Semera. Prices are high but it is the only way to visit this remote land.

Backpacking Harar

The walled city of Harar is located in the eastern part of Ethiopia, close to the border with Somaliland. As in much of this part of Ethiopia, Islam is the dominant religion, and Harar features the characteristics of Arabic-style architecture and urban design. 

One of the biggest charms that Harar offers is getting lost through its narrow streets to appreciate the lifestyle of the inhabitants of this 13th-century town. In addition, during sunset, it is possible to get outside of the city walls and feed the hyenas that abundantly populate Harar. 

Like in other parts of Ethiopia and the Horn of Africa, many of the inhabitants of Harar will spend several hours per day chewing khat. This plant with stimulant effects must be chewed for hours in order to truly notice its effect.

Backpacking Arba Minch

Arba Minch is the most populated city in the southern part of Ethiopia. It is located beside lakes Chamo and Abaya. A boat cruise in Lake Chamo will offer you the opportunity to spot hippos and Nile crocodiles, the biggest kind in the world, apart from the lifestyle of the intrepid fishermen who embark every day in these dangerous waters.

Arba Minch is often used by visitors as the base to explore the different indigenous tribes that populate this part of the country. A two-hour drive to the south from Arba Minch you can find the UNESCO village of Konso, where the Konso people live in a centuries-old walled town. 

The city of Jinka, located to the southwest of Arba Minch, is also used as a base to explore the remote tribes of the Omo Valley. However, this experience has a high cost and, from a personal opinion, is a bit uncomfortable to just wander around a place where the only reason why they accept you being there is that you are paying them.

Getting Off the Beaten Path in Ethiopia

Backpacking Ethiopia is in itself an off the beaten path experience . Even in Lalibela, the “most touristic” attraction in the country you will find out that 90% of the people are there for non-touristic reasons. 

Having said this, Ethiopia also offers the opportunity to immerse in communities and villages that live 100% isolated from the outside world, without internet access and reliant on traditional trade rather than on the use of currency.

When traveling Ethiopia by land, it is easy to recognize this kind of town and I will highly encourage you to spend a couple of hours trying to interact with the locals there. However, don’t expect them to know English.

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Top Things to Do in Ethiopia

These are the best things to see and do in Ethiopia…

1. Explore Lalibela

Probably one of the highlights and indispensable destinations when traveling in Ethiopia. Despite the beauty and the magnificent architectural characteristics of Lalibela, wandering around the churches’ compound and observing how people behave inside the churches is the best way to understand the degree of religiosity of Ethiopia.

Depending on the time you have you can decide whether to do this on your own or with a local guide. If you have time constraints I will highly recommend hiring a guide to show you all the highlights in the compound.

2. Camp in the Simien Mountains

After having spent some days exploring the overwhelming streets of different Ethiopian sites, arriving at the Simien Mountains feels like entering an oasis in the middle of the desert.

You should spend at least one night to experience one of the best sunsets that you will ever see. Standing on the edge of a 4000 meters high mountain while the sun comes down and the Gelada monkeys start climbing the cliffs to find the place where they will spend the night is one of the most beautiful natural experiences in the whole world.

While trekking, it is important to pay attention to the endemic Ethiopian wolf, who may surprise you while trying to hunt some moles in the ground. Also, remember to bring your winter clothes as during the night it gets freezing cold.

3. See the Danakil Depression

Besides its reputation as the most inhospitable place on Earth, embarking on a Danakil Depression trip is a hell of an adventure. Whether you spend 2,3 or 4 nights there, visiting Danakil is one of those experiences that make you feel relieved they are over while at the same time, you don’t regret having gone through them. 

The heat, the lack of showers, or the armed company, are clearly compensated by the feeling of entering a whole new planet in which all your five senses will be exposed to radically new sensations.

4. Discover the Island Monasteries in Lake Tana

Hire a boat to take you around Lake Tana, exploring its completely isolated and peaceful island monasteries. There are five of them, however, it may be enough to arrange with the boat captain to just visit three or four.

Debre Maryam is the most popular one and has a bigger tourist infrastructure with shops and bars, thus, while worth spending half an hour there, you should head on to smaller and more isolated ones like Daga Stefanos or Kergan Gabriel. 

In these monasteries, you will most certainly be the only person on the island besides the priests that live there and who dedicate their lives to praying and meditating in such a quiet, green and peaceful environment. During your boat ride you will also be able to spot hippos.

5. Get lost in the streets of Harar

For those travelers who really enjoy cultural shocks and walking around completely different cities, wandering around the narrow streets of Harar will probably be one of the highlights of their trip to Ethiopia. 

After having been immersed in the Ethiopian Orthodox spirituality of the monasteries of Lake Tana or Lalibela, arriving to Harar will be a perfect reminder of the 35% Muslim population in the country. Mosques, markets, khat, narrow streets, and hyenas, are the key elements that make Harar a unique place to visit in Ethiopia.

6. Experience the African “Middle Age” in Fasil Ghebbi

The castle compound of Fasil Ghebbi in the city of Gondar has nothing to envy to many of the castles’ compounds located around Europe. The first of these castles was built by King Fasil Ghebbi in 1636. After building this castle, his successors built their own castles in the same compound.

Wandering around the compound is a unique experience in Africa, as it gives the feeling of being back in one of Europe’s middle age towns. Nonetheless, the conditions of the castles vary from one another as they have been affected by the Sudanese invasions or World War II bombs. 

7. Immerse into the Merkato Experience

Apart from being the biggest open-air market in Africa, Merkato is also characterized for being the most overwhelming place in the whole country, without any doubt. Some may recommend going to Merkato with a guide as sometimes it can be excessively overwhelming, however, I think that to fully experience it is better to go on your own.

Any kind of goods are sold in Merkato, from cows to washing machines, and it is the place from where all the goods are distributed to the rest of the country. I will also recommend going to one of the rooftops in the buildings of Merkato to truly realize the dimensions of the market. 

Although it is possible to find souvenirs and touristic items, I would recommend buying them on Churchill Avenue as prices for these kinds of products are higher in Merkato.

8. Visit Tribes in the Omo Valley 

Although I am not the biggest fan of the tribal experiences, opinions about it are very diverse, and it is one of the main reasons why Ethiopia receives tourists every year. Therefore, I felt like I should include it among the top things to do. 

In order to visit tribes like the Mursi or the Hammer, among the most isolated and popular ones to visit, it is necessary to arrange it through a local guide. During the experience, they will let you know how these people live and their traditions. Also, they will have a preset schedule including dances or something of that sort.

You will also be constantly asked to pay to take pictures of them, buy souvenirs or just give them tips to support their community. While it may seem good to help these communities, I have mixed feelings about it, as some of their traditions include the perpetration of gender-based or infant-oriented crimes.

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Backpacker Accommodation in Ethiopia

Ethiopia does not have a fully developed backpacking or touristic infrastructure. Therefore, the availability of accommodation for people visiting the country is quite limited and, many times, oriented toward luxury visitors. 

When traveling around Ethiopia, don’t expect to find fancy hostels with a nice bar and a great backpackers’ party scene .

However, you can still find very decent options around the country to sleep in clean and affordable places. In addition, the kind of travelers you will meet in these places will certainly be on the same page as you, looking for adventure and real experiences. 

Addis will be the destination where you can more easily find accommodation as is the most developed part of the country by far. Outside of Addis options are more limited and, as was mentioned, in the touristic destinations, accommodation is more oriented towards the rich.

It is also important to bear in mind that Ethiopia is not very digitized, hence, in some places, it is just better to try to find accommodation in the old-school way. Get out your map and check out the options you have around you.

The Best Places to Stay in Ethiopia

Ethiopia backpacking costs.

The costs of backpacking Ethiopia depend a lot on two factors: the number of organized activities you want to get involved in and how keen you are on living the local way during your stay. 

As it was mentioned in the previous sections, for some of the main attractions in Ethiopia, like the Simien Mountains, the Omo Valley, or Danakil Depression, it is necessary to hire guides with transportation and expertise in the area visited. These guides are used to organize excursions for wealthy visitors, which makes them expensive. In addition, costs like entrance fees and car rental are high in Ethiopia. 

The other main determinant of your expenses will be how dependent you are on living by Western standards. If you decide to eat and drink in local places, and you are not too exquisite about the places you sleep at, then money in Ethiopia can go for a long time.

However, be warned that both the food and the accommodation standards differ hugely from the ones in your country of origin. Another important aspect will be whether you decide to fly, hire a driver or move around by public transportation. 

Therefore, backpacking Ethiopia on a tight budget can be quite challenging as it does not offer too many middle-range options in terms of accommodation, transportation, activities, or food. However, I don’t think that anyone who is not up for a challenge would even think about backpacking Ethiopia.

Money in Ethiopia

The currency in Ethiopia is the Birr, which as of May 2023 is exchanging at $1=54.82 Birrs. The biggest bill is 200 Birrs, so remember to arrange some space for the money once you have it.  

It will be quite difficult to find Ethiopian currency out of the country so your best option will be to either withdraw from a bank or exchange at the forex bureau in the banks. In Addis it is easy to get money, however, when you head on to other destinations it can be difficult or even impossible. Hence, try to carry all the cash you will need from Addis.

Also, Ethiopia is a really cash-based economy and only in Westernized restaurants and accommodations you will have your credit and debit cards accepted, so prepare yourself to pay all the expenses in cash.

For all matters of finance and accounting on the road, The Broke Backpacker strongly recommends Wise – The Artist Formerly Known as Transferwise!

Our favorite online platform for holding funds, transferring money, and even paying for goods, Wise is a 100% FREE platform with considerably lower fees than Paypal or traditional banks. But the real question is… is it better than Western Union?

Yes, it most certainly is.

A Daily Budget in Ethiopia

Travel tips – ethiopia on a budget.

• Eat Local Food : Ethiopian cuisine is unique and despite it may be a bit of a shock at the beginning, you can grow to really love it. In local restaurants, you can spend 2-3$ per meal and end up completely full. 
• Camp : Even though you can’t camp wherever you go when visiting National Parks like the Simien Mountains it will save you a lot of money (and also improve your experience) to pack your camping gear and enjoy sleeping in the wild.
• Use public transportation : while it can be challenging and uncomfortable, traveling around Ethiopia through public transportation is a hell of a rewarding experience, both for your wallet and your soul.
• Limit the amount of tour-required destinations : if you are on a tight budget it is better to reduce the number of activities that require hiring a guide and transportation. While there are amazing places to see in Ethiopia, the highlight of traveling here is getting fully immersed in its unique culture.

Why You Should Travel to Ethiopia with a Water Bottle 

Although the streets can be dirty, please be responsible enough to not be a part of it. It is not only about spoiling the beauty of the places or climate change, the health of Ethiopians can be severely affected if the trash you throw away ends up in the river where they get their water from. 

One way to get around this is by investing in a premium filtered travel bottle like the Grayl Geopress. You can filter any kind of water, save money on buying endless plastic bottles – and sleep easy knowing you’re not contributing to the plastic bottles lining our beautiful beaches.

Drink water from ANYWHERE. The Grayl Geopress is the worlds leading filtered water bottle protecting you from all manner of waterborne nasties.

Single-use plastic bottles are a MASSIVE threat to marine life. Be a part of the solution and travel with a filter water bottle. Save money and the environment!

We’ve tested the Geopress  rigorously  from the icy heights of Pakistan to the tropical jungles of Bali, and can confirm: it’s the best water bottle you’ll ever buy!

Best Time to Travel to Ethiopia

Ethiopia’s weather is divided into the rainy season and the dry season. The rainy season lasts for the months of the Western hemisphere summer, from June to September. The probability of getting rain during the rest of the year is very small. 

Addis’ weather is mild during the whole year due to its high altitude (2500m) and, besides the rainy season, temperatures stay between 10º and 25º C. 

In areas with lower altitudes, it can get hotter. The months before the rainy season are usually the hottest ones throughout the country. Among the touristic destinations, places like Danakil Depression, where temperatures are high throughout the whole year, or the Simien Mountains, where it is cool the whole year, follow their own rules.

What to Pack for Ethiopia

While it doesn’t have strict dress rules, Ethiopia is a conservative country, and as such some kinds of outfits, especially when it comes to women, may be quite shocking for the local people. 

Also, when visiting churches, like Lalibela, your shoulders and legs should be covered. In addition, women must cover their hair.

Travel Security Belt

This is a regular looking belt with a concealed pocket on the inside – you can hide up to twenty notes inside and wear it through airport scanners without it setting them off.

Microfiber Towel

Hostel towels are scummy and take forever to dry. Microfibre towels dry quickly, are compact, lightweight, and can be used as a blanket or yoga mat if need be.

Petzl Actik Core Headlamp

A decent head torch could save your life. If you want to explore caves, unlit temples, or simply find your way to the bathroom during a blackout, a headtorch is a must.

‘Monopoly Deal’

Forget about Poker! Monopoly Deal is the single best travel card game that we have ever played. Works with 2-5 players and guarantees happy days.

Hanging Laundry Bag

Trust us, this is an absolute game changer. Super compact, a hanging mesh laundry bag stops your dirty clothes from stinking, you don’t know how much you need one of these… so just get it, thank us later.

Staying Safe in Ethiopia

As a developing country severely affected by war, Ethiopia faces different challenges that may affect the stability and safety of certain areas. However, if you avoid those areas, traveling in Ethiopia is not dangerous compared to other African countries. 

In November 2022, the Federal Government of Ethiopia and the Tigray People’s Liberation Front signed a peace agreement to put an end to the two years war in the northern region of Tigray. Even though the situation is improving, traveling to Tigray is still strongly discouraged.

This Ethiopia backpacking guide doesn’t include any recommendations for places or things to do inside the Tigray region. Other areas of the country may be affected by sudden violent clashes so it’s important to stay updated on the situation. 

Besides the danger of conflict, in touristic places, you can find petty crime and the usual scamming. Violent crime in Ethiopia is unusual, however, it is important to avoid walking around during the night, especially while in Addis. Apart from that, try to avoid flashing any valuables and keep an eye on your belongings.

Sex, Drugs, and Rock ‘n’ Roll in Ethiopia

If you are looking for a destination to go crazy, meet tons of backpackers, and stay every night until the sun comes up, then you should look for a different destination. A trip to Ethiopia will not be remembered by its wild nights out. 

This doesn’t mean that you can’t unwind by drinking a couple beers in the local bars spread all over the country. In addition, Addis has an active nightlife with plenty of options to party until the late hours of the night. It is possible to find hard drugs in Addis’ nightlife, however, I don’t believe it is worth taking the risk of getting caught. 

In the case of weed, due to the Ethiopian bond with the Rastafari community, it is, in the framework of a conservative country, more socially acceptable. However, again, you don’t want to be caught in an African country carrying drugs around. My recommendation is to stay away from illegal drugs during your stay in Ethiopia. 

However, khat is very popular and legal in Ethiopia. Khat is a stimulant plant that has to be chewed for hours in order to truly feel its effects. Its cheap price and legal condition make it a part of the daily life of many inhabitants of the Horn of Africa and the Arabian Peninsula.

Ethiopian society is very conservative in general and, as such, it may be difficult to get involved with locals in short periods of time. In addition, a very low percentage of the local population speaks English, which reduces the possibility of establishing bonds. Nonetheless, in Addis’ nightlife, you may end up meeting lots of local and international open-minded people. 

Homosexuality is illegal in Ethiopia and if accused you may even end up spending some time in jail. Besides being illegal, Ethiopian society does not approve of homosexuality either, so it is better to refrain from any kind of behavior that may lead someone to think that you are an LGBT traveler . If traveling with your partner, remain cautious even in your accommodation.

Getting Insured BEFORE Visiting Ethiopia

ALWAYS sort out your backpacker insurance before your trip. There’s plenty to choose from in that department, but a good place to start is Safety Wing .

They offer month-to-month payments, no lock-in contracts, and require absolutely no itineraries: that’s the exact kind of insurance long-term travellers and digital nomads need.

SafetyWing is cheap, easy, and admin-free: just sign up lickety-split so you can get back to it!

Click the button below to learn more about SafetyWing’s setup or read our insider review for the full tasty scoop.

How to Get Into Ethiopia

The most common and recommended way to enter Ethiopia is through Addis Ababa Bole International Airport. Ethiopian Airlines is very well connected worldwide, while there are other airlines that also operate in the country. 

Entering by land to Ethiopia is generally not advisable due to insecurity in the borders and the unstable political situation of neighbors like Eritrea, Somalia, and South Sudan. Djibouti will probably be the safest land border and there is a direct train that connects Addis and Djibouti.

Entry Requirements for Ethiopia

Ethiopia has an online visa service, which allows visitors to apply for their visas through the immigration website. Tourists, as of May 2023, have two possibilities for visas:

• 30 days : 82 USD
• 90 days : 202 USD

The approval process for the tourist visa usually takes 3 working days.

How to Get Around Ethiopia

Distances in Ethiopia can be very long. If you add this to the fact that some of the touristic destinations cannot be reached by public transportation or with your own car, during the time you spend in Ethiopia you will probably have to move by different means of transportation.

Ethiopian Airlines is the only airline that operates flights between domestic destinations. The flights can be booked in person in the Ethiopian Airlines office in the Hilton Hotel in Addis Ababa.

The prices of one-way flights are around 70$ if you have entered the country with Ethiopian Airlines and around 140$ if you haven’t. 

The extent to which you will have to resource to flights depends on the budget and time constraints that you have, however, in order to reach the northern cities it may be advisable to take a flight to save a whole day of public transportation

Traveling by land in Ethiopia can be quite an experience, as it is the only way to see how people in rural areas truly live and to admire the astonishing landscapes of the country. 

Although interurban roads are, in general terms, in good conditions, it is difficult to find car rental companies for reasonable prices to move outside of Addis.

Hence, if you are not willing to move around the country by public transportation, you will have to hire a driver with their own car, which can turn out to be quite expensive. On the other hand, having a driver hired for everything will spare you from having to find guides in places like the Simien Mountains or the Omo Valley.

Your last option is to move around by public transportation, which is the most immersive and cheap means of transportation, however, it will also be the more difficult. There is no online information about buses and the level of English is generally low in Ethiopia, so finding the right bus can be a hell of a challenge. It all depends on your desire for adventure and your financial capacity.

Onwards Travel from Ethiopia

As mentioned in previous sections, traveling by land to neighboring countries may be difficult due to security risks. However, if possible, backpacking Kenya would probably be the more attractive option to continue with the adventure by land. There are buses that can take you to the bordering town of Moyale where you can get into Kenya and explore the off-the-beaten-path northern part of the country.

In addition, the wide range of connections that Ethiopian Airlines has with other African states will allow you to take a flight to other destinations inside the continent. Kenya, Uganda, or Tanzania are usually the cheaper options available, however, going to other destinations, like Madagascar, would allow you to save a lot of money compared to the flight prices you would pay from your home country.

Working and Volunteering in Ethiopia

Finding job opportunities in Ethiopia is not an easy task and it is mainly available in the humanitarian, international relations, and development fields. In addition, job permits in Ethiopia are not easily accessible to foreigners. 

There is also not a huge digital nomad scene . The lack of touristic affluence, which usually preludes digital nomadism, together with (relatively true) prejudices about internet accessibility or living conditions, has dissuaded Ethiopia from being a part of this phenomenon.

While living conditions may not be as comfortable as in other destinations, working as a digital nomad in Ethiopia will also provide you with the opportunity to live an absolutely off-the-beaten-track experience and to understand the way of living of this unique society. Regarding internet accessibility, internet access has improved a lot in the last years and the majority of Westernized accommodation includes power generators for power cuts.

During the time I have spent in Ethiopia, I have met some remote workers who were able to maintain their job after living in Ethiopia for more than two years. It must also be said that Addis would be the best, and maybe the only place where you would be able to establish yourself as a digital nomad.

Teaching English in Ethiopia 

English is not widespread in Ethiopia, which means that there is an enormous demand for English speakers in the country. However, in many cases knowing the local language may be required. Furthermore, you will most probably have to be sponsored for your job permit by your employer, who may not be willing to go through such a process if you are considering a short-term stay in the country.

Volunteering in Ethiopia

Volunteering is necessary everywhere and lending a hand through this type of experience is a really beneficial experience both for society and for yourself. Having said this, it is undeniable that there are places that need it more than others and Ethiopia is undoubtedly one of those places. Hence, I would highly encourage you to come to Ethiopia for your volunteer experience . 

If you want to find volunteer opportunities in Ethiopia, then we recommend that you sign up for Worldpackers – a volunteer platform that connects local hosts directly with traveling volunteers.

Whenever you are volunteering, do stay vigilant especially when working with animals or children. Volunteer programs run through reputable work exchange programs are very well managed.

Ethiopian Culture

As it has been intensely stated in this guide, Ethiopian culture is absolutely unique and diverse mainly because of religion and ethnic diversity.

Ethiopia is one of the most ancient countries in the world and also the second country to adopt Christianity as a state religion in the 4th century, only after Armenia.

While dependent on the Egyptian Coptic Church until the 20th century, Ethiopia has been isolated from the rest of the Christian states for many centuries, which has led the Ethiopian Orthodox Church to develop a lot of unique characteristics compared to the rest of the Christian world.

Ethiopian orthodox followers do not eat pork, and do not eat animals that they haven’t killed themselves, with the exception of cows killed in orthodox butcheries. They also fast for more than half of the year. Furthermore, the high percentage of Muslims in the country and the peaceful coexistence of both religions is another fascinating feature of Ethiopian religiosity.

Ethiopia is populated by more than 90 different ethnic groups with radically diverse traditions and which are generally geographically distributed throughout the country, although a fair amount of coexistence takes place in different areas.

The sizes of the ethnic groups are very varied. The main ones are the Amhara, Tigrinya, Oromo, and Somali. On the other hand, very small ethnic groups inhabit the Omo Valley and other areas in the south, maintaining intact their ancient tribal traditions and ways of living. The interethnic relations in the country have been characterized by continuous conflict and power struggles until nowadays.

From personal experience, I can tell that it is better to refrain from discussing politics and interethnic conflicts, as it is a very delicate matter, about which Ethiopians have very strong opinions. 

Ethiopia is also known for its vibrant music, dance, and art scenes. Traditional Ethiopian music is characterized by its use of unique instruments such as the masinko, krar, and washint, as well as complex rhythms and vocal harmonies. Ethiopian dance is also highly expressive and often incorporates intricate footwork and gestures.

Ethiopian society is also very closed towards foreigners, which can be wrongly interpreted as Ethiopians being rude or skeptical. The truth is that the lack of tourism and of a colonial past means that they are just not used to foreigners and they will observe you with intense curiosity.

However, once you pass the initial cultural barrier and manage to communicate with them, you will realize that they are generous and open to meeting new people in many cases. I can’t count the times I have been offered to share lunch with someone while walking down the street.

Useful Travel Phrases for Ethiopia

The vast amount of ethnic groups in the country also translates into a vast amount of languages spoken in Ethiopia. Estimates establish the number of languages is around 80. Among them, Amharic is the most widely spoken language and used by the government. Nonetheless, I wouldn’t say that more than half of the population of the country speaks Amharic. 

Amharic is a Semitic language with a unique alphabet. This makes it quite difficult for a foreigner to learn and understand it in a short period of time. Other languages spoken in the country are Oromo, Somali, and Tigrinya. 

The level of English of the population is low in Addis, while practically non-existent in the rest of the country.

Hence, here I have left some useful phrases to get you through this experience:

Hello : Salam neh (for man) / nesh (for women)

How are you? : Indet neh  / nesh 

Good morning : Indemin aderk /adesh

I don’t speak Amharic : Amarinya ailnagerim

Sorry : Yqerta

Enjoy : Tedeseti

No problem : Chigrilam

Where is the toilet? : sente bet yate naw?

Help : Meridati

Beautiful : Konjo

Good : Arifno

What to Eat in Ethiopia

One of Ethiopia’s main cultural or economic sources is coffee or “bunna” in Amharic. The word coffee comes from the Kaffa region located in southeast Ethiopia.

Apart from being one of the best coffees in the world, Ethiopian coffee is also the center of many social meetings, in which the hosts cover the floor with grass, light up some smelling species, and offer snacks to eat.

While walking around you will find plenty of women preparing and selling coffee in the street. Don’t hesitate to have one and see if you are lucky and they perform at least a part of the ceremony.

Food in Ethiopia may vary from one region to another or from the fasting period to the non-fasting period, however, every Ethiopian dish is served on top of an injera . The injera is a very flat and soft kind of bread, which is made of an abundant cereal in Ethiopia called teff.

It doesn’t have a lot of flavor, although it may taste sour if you are not used to it. On top of the injera, all kinds of stews and foods are served. The injera is used both as a plate and as cutlery, as you have to cut it, only with your right hand, and grab the food on top with it.

Must-Try Dishes in Ethiopia

Tibs : one of the most common Ethiopian dishes. It is a stew made of beef or lamb cooked with sauce, spices and vegetables like onions and, sometimes, tomatoes.

Doro wat : is the dish eaten in celebrations and one of the favorites of Ethiopians. It is a chicken (doro) stew cooked with over 40 spices and boiled eggs. It can be very spicy.

Shiro : it is kind of a dense curry made out of chickpeas and different spices. It is also one of the most common dishes and very popular during the fasting season. It can also include chilly.

Kitfo : it is made of spiced dices of raw beef. One of the spices used to prepare it is the mitmita, a common Ethiopian spice, which is very hot.

Tere siga : it is basically raw beef cut in medium size pieces. It is served with a spicy sauce, in which you can dip, helped by the injera.

A Brief History of Ethiopia

Ethiopia’s earliest known history is traced back to the kingdom of D’mt, which is believed to have existed around 1000 BCE. The kingdom of Aksum, which emerged in the 1st century CE, is considered one of the greatest empires in ancient Africa.

Aksum was known for its advanced architecture, trade, and Christianity. The kingdom’s influence extended throughout the region, including parts of modern-day Yemen and Sudan.

During the 16th century, Ethiopia went through a period of political instability, with several rival factions vying for power. The country was eventually reunited under Emperor Fasilides, who founded the city of Gondar as his capital.

In the 19th century, Ethiopia faced increasing pressure from European powers seeking to colonize the country. However, Emperor Menelik II successfully resisted these efforts, defeating Italian forces at the Battle of Adwa in 1896.

Ethiopia underwent significant changes during the 20th century. In 1930, Haile Selassie became Emperor of Ethiopia, ushering in a period of modernization and economic growth.

However, his reign was also marked by political repression and a lack of democracy. In 1974, a socialist military junta known as the Derg overthrew the monarchy and established a Marxist-Leninist government. This period was marked by political violence, famine, and economic decline.

In 1991, the Derg was overthrown by rebel forces led by the Ethiopian People’s Revolutionary Democratic Front (EPRDF). The EPRDF established a new constitution, and Ethiopia transitioned to a federal system of government.

Despite some progress in democracy and human rights, Ethiopia has also faced challenges in recent years, including ethnic tensions, political unrest, and conflicts in regions like Tigray.

Overall, Ethiopia has a rich and complex history, with a legacy that has influenced the region and the world.

Rastafari Movement

Haile Selassie, who was also known as Ras Tafari, was a figure of great importance to the Rastafari movement. Many Rastafarians believe that he is a messiah and that he represents the return of Jesus Christ, based on the interpretation of biblical texts.

Haile Selassie himself was a devout Ethiopian Orthodox Christian and did not endorse the Rastafari movement, but he was respected by many members of the movement for his role in promoting pan-Africanism and his opposition to colonialism.

The establishment of Shashamane as a settlement for Rastafarians was a significant event in the history of the movement. It allowed Rastafarians from around the world to settle in Ethiopia and connect with their African heritage. Today, the town is home to a community of Rastafarians who have built their own cultural institutions and practices, including the Nyabinghi drumming ceremonies and the celebration of Ethiopian culture and history.

Things go wrong on the road ALL THE TIME. Be prepared for what life throws at you.

Buy an AMK Travel Medical Kit before you head out on your next adventure – don’t be daft!

FAQs About Backpacking in Ethiopia

A few commonly asked questions about traveling to Ethiopia…

Is Ethiopia safe to travel?

In terms of criminal activity, in Addis and the main tourist destinations there is a small amount of pickpocketing, so be alert. However, from that perspective, Ethiopia is safer to visit than many other African countries.  Nonetheless, the political situation in the country can change drastically so it is very important to keep close attention to the political evolution. Also, at the moment, it is not advisable to travel to the Tigray region.

Where should I go backpacking in Ethiopia?

Even though the country is big enough to offer different routes, if constrained by time, I would advise to visit the Northern part of the country, as it is where you will most extensively immerse in Ethiopian culture and history.

What is considered rude in Ethiopia?

Men and women should dress conservatively and public displays of affection should be limited. Trying to learn a couple of words in Amharic will be highly appreciated by the people you talk with.

Is Ethiopia expensive? 

As it was previously mentioned, if you stick to the local way of life, money can go a long way in Ethiopia. However, if you visit places through organized tours and have time constraints that don’t allow you to travel by public transportation, Ethiopia will end up being expensive.

What is the highlight of backpacking in Ethiopia?

For me, the highlight of backpacking in Ethiopia is the feeling of traveling through a completely different world, not only because of the economic differences, but because of its unique and diverse culture.

Final Advice Before Visiting Ethiopia

Even though you may feel in a completely different world, please keep in mind that you are a human being surrounded by human beings. 

Try people nicely and you will receive kindness from their side. Please don’t treat them as servers just because they are willing to accept ridiculously low amounts of money to do things for you. Also, don’t be the kind of imbecile who thinks everything around them is just a part of the stage set to take his or her Instagram pictures.

If you want to take a picture of someone, ask for their permission and if it’s a child ask for the permission of an adult. Imagine what would happen if four Ethiopians went to a park in Europe and started to take pictures of four-year-old girls. 

Also, while in Ethiopia, you will find lots of beggars, many of them children. I think that it is good to help those in need, but in the case of children, I would advise to avoid giving them cash. You can buy them food, books, or materials for school, but children are commonly used to bringing some cash home, even if they have to miss school to do so.

This guest post was contributed by Nico Prada , a traveler who is passionate about exploring new cultures and ways of life. For him, the main goal of any trip is to understand what drives the people who inhabit the place he is visiting. Easier to find having a couple beers in the local market than posting IG stories from a fancy rooftop. 

And for transparency’s sake, please know that some of the links in our content are affiliate links . That means that if you book your accommodation, buy your gear, or sort your insurance through our link, we earn a small commission (at no extra cost to you). That said, we only link to the gear we trust and never recommend services we don’t believe are up to scratch. Again, thank you!

Guest Poster

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Travel to Ethiopia: Everything you need to know

By Joan Torres 30 Comments Last updated on March 27, 2024

From visiting the most epic Christian sites to meeting ancient tribes with animistic beliefs, and from roaming around the thickest jungle to crossing the most inhospitable desert; traveling in Ethiopia is the most diverse African experience and this travel guide contains everything you need to know about it

I seriously thought that Ethiopia was a touristic, well-known country in the West but, when I came back from my trip, I was surprised to find out that many people had absolutely no clue about it, like they didn’t even know about its geographical location.

The truth is that traveling can be extremely subjective and, while Ethiopia may be a relatively touristic country as per Against the Compass standards – meaning that this is one of the most visited countries I talk about in this blog – compared to other average destinations, it is a real off the beaten track destination.

Little is known about this African country and, when people ask me what it is like to travel in Ethiopia, I always begin the conversation with the following:

The main reason to visit Ethiopia is that it is an exceptionally diverse experience.

On the one hand, the cultural diversity is huge. In Ethiopia alone, you have 80 distinct ethnic groups who speak more than 80 languages and practice different religions, from different branches of Christianity to Islam and animistic beliefs.

On the other hand, this is a historically rich country and the one with the most impressive historical and archeological sites in sub-Saharan Africa, once the capital of the Aksumite Empire – one of the most powerful ancient empires in the continent that ruled for more than 800 years – and home to endless jaw-dropping millennial rock-hewn churches and European-like medieval castles.

Furthermore, contrary to any Western cliché, Ethiopia is also a land of natural contrasts, composed of fertile tropical forests in the south and vast flat deserts in the east, the Danakil Depression being home to lava pools and the hottest settlement in the world. In the north, Lake Tana is the source of the Blue Nile and Simien Mountains is one of the very few places in Africa with regular snowfall, the highest peak being at 4500m.

And by the way, the scenery in Ethiopia is unconditionally hair-raising, a real blessing to your eyeballs.

And if that wasn’t enough, Ethiopia was recently rebranded the Land of Origins by the Ministry of Tourism because these lands are the origin of humankind – where the oldest hominid was found – the first place to ever produce coffee and they practice one of the rawest and most ancient ways of Christianity.

Trust me, after traveling to so many countries, I am rarely impressed but still, Ethiopia definitely wowed me.

This guide contains everything you need to know to travel to Ethiopia (literally, everything), from how to get a visa to getting in, top experiences, cultural facts, budget and loads of personal travel tips.

In this Ethiopia travel guide you will find:

Table of Contents

• COVID-19 Travel Restrictions
• Overlanding
• Best time to visit
• Travel insurance
• Top experiences
• Books on Ethiopia
• Cultural facts
• The country
• People & Language
• Money, budget & costs
• Is it safe?
• Solo female travel
• Moving around
• Where to stay

😷 COVID-19 Travel restrictions for Ethiopia

COVID-19 entry regulations for visiting Ethiopia have been lifted in 2022.

For more information, check Ethiopian Travel Update .

Travel Insurance for Ethiopia

IATI Insurance  is one of the few providers that offers full Coronavirus coverage, not only when it comes to treatment, but also cancellation costs in case you tested positive before departure.

Moreover, Ethiopia is an adventure destination, so traveling with proper travel insurance is a must.

Readers of Against the Compass can get an exclusive 5% discount .

🪪 How to get a visa for Ethiopia

How to get an e-visa for ethiopia.

Everybody needs a visa for Ethiopia but today, pretty much any nationality can get a tourist e-visa.

And you can easily apply through the official website .

Make sure you do it through the above URL because there are many non-official websites which, even though they do issue valid visas, charge much more money.

Typically, there are 2 types of tourist e-visa:

• 30-day visa, which costs 82USD
• 90-day visa, which costs 102USD

And it takes up to 3 days to process. Mine took less than 24 hours.

It’s a very easy process which has absolutely no secret and very little requirements.

Is the Ethiopian e-visa valid at land borders?

Officially, the tourist e-visa is only valid for those entering via Bole International Airport in Addis Ababa .

My trip to Ethiopia was part of a 3-month journey through the Horn of Africa, traveling from Eritrea to Djibouti, Soma liland and then entering Ethiopia overland, so I intended to apply for it at the embassy in Djibouti.

However, once I got there, they told me that they had run out of visa stickers and that they would not receive more after a couple of weeks at least.

Then, I tried my luck in Hargeisa, the capital of Somaliland but, unfortunately they weren’t issuing visas anymore, so I was in a situation in which, according to the official information, the only thing I could do was booking a flight from Hargeisa to Addis Ababa, which kind of sucked.

However, I contacted a few travelers who said that in Africa, anything can happen and proof of that is that they managed to travel to Ethiopia overland with an e-visa, so I decided to try my luck as well and successfully managed to cross the border from Somaliland , no questions asked.

Visa on arrival for Ethiopia

If you don’t have time to apply for an e-visa because your flight to Addis Ababa is less than 3 days ahead, you can also get a VOA at Bole International Airport.

Otherwise, I don’t see any good reason why you should get a VOA instead of an e-visa.

How to apply for an Ethiopian tourist visa via embassy

The only reason for applying for your Ethiopia tourist visa at the embassy is because you are entering overland and don’t want to risk a potential denial because you are only in possession of an e-visa.

You can find Ethiopian embassies and consulates in many cities across Europe and North America. Just contact your nearest one to ask about the process, which tends to be very easy.

🛫 How to get to Ethiopia

Ethiopia is an adventurous destination, get travel insurance I strongly recommend IATI Insurance : adventure activities, COVID-19 coverage Get 5% discount if purchasing via this link

How to travel to Ethiopia by plane

Bole International Airport in Addis Ababa is one of the most transited airports in the African continent.

I had actually been there twice even before visiting Ethiopia, as Addis Ababa is a common stop for many flights going to other African destinations and the Middle East .

The main airline operating in the country is Ethiopian Airlines , a modern company that flies all over the world , including to and from the American continent.

Moreover, there are many other international airlines that fly to Addis. I actually flew out of the country with Emirates.

Remember that, if you fly in with Ethiopian Airlines, you get a 50% discount on all domestic flights . Check the how to move around section of this post for more information.

How to travel to Ethiopia overland

Ethiopia shares a border with so many countries :

Traveling to Ethiopia from Sudan

Completely open to foreigners. There are regular minivans running from a Sudanese city named Qadarif to the border, and the border formalities are not very complicated.

Read my Sudan travel guide.

Traveling to Ethiopia from Djibouti

An easy border to cross from a bureaucratic point of view but difficult from a logistic point of view, as you need to cross the desert on a 4×4.

Moreover, an easier option would be taking the train that goes from Addis to Djibouti City, but it is a bit unreliable. For more information, check the moving around section.

Traveling to Ethiopia from Kenya

Crossing from the Kenyan town named Moyale should be a simple process.

Traveling to Ethiopia from South Sudan

Not possible. You would have to go through the jungle and go across the most dangerous part of South Sudan, so forget it. There are daily flights connecting both countries though.

Traveling to Ethiopia from Eritrea

This border is closed for foreigners and more often than not, also for locals. The only way of traveling between both countries is by flying in, from Asmara to Addis.

Read my Eritrea travel guide .

Traveling to Ethiopia from Somalia

The one I used. As you may know (or not), Somalia is divided into two regions, actual Somalia and Somaliland.

You can travel to Ethiopia from Somaliland, using the border near the city of Harar. It was very easy and quick to cross. There are normal roads and plenty of public transportation.

Read my Somaliland travel guide

⛅ Best time to visit Ethiopia

Ethiopia is a big country composed of several geographical regions, each having a different optimal season to visit, so it’s a bit difficult to guess the ideal time to come.

Rainy season

Typically, most travelers avoid the rainy season running from mid-June to mid-September, especially because the northern highlands is where it rains the most, the region with the highest concentration of popular destinations, including Gonder, Axum, Tigray churches, Simien Mountains and Lalibela .

In the south, however, which includes the famous Omo Valley , the rainy season runs from March to June, and it’s highly advisable to avoid these months, for the simple reason that the remotest villages, which are only accessible along muddy roads, will be unreachable.

November to January is high season

The weather is ideal and, up to January, the landscapes are beautifully green still. Expect to find big crowds and high prices though.

February and March is a good time too

As the weather is pleasant and most crowds are gone but the main downside is that it is already dry season, so the northern landscapes won’t be as pretty. I visited Ethiopia from February 1st to mid-March.

Therefore, in order to avoid the crowds and still get pretty landscapes, I believe that mid-September and October would be the best time to go backpacking in Ethiopia.

However, bear in mind that the Danakil Depression , one of the country’s highlights, is also one of the hottest places on Earth, and September and October’s heat will be unbearable; it is advised to visit here from mid-November to February.

And last, you may also want to organize your visit so you come during one of their most important cultural festivals :

• Genna – Ethiopian Christmas that takes places on January 7th
• Timkat – Ethiopia’s Orthodox Christian celebration that takes place on January 20th
• Meskel – Ethiopian religious holiday that takes places at the end of September

As you can see, telling you the right time is a bit tricky!

🚑 Travel insurance for Ethiopia

Ethiopia is an adventurous region, so make sure to choose a proper backpacking insurance with good adventure coverage. I recommend IATI Insurance .

• It covers the largest number of adventure activities, including trekking
• Covers both short-term trips and 1-year long trips.
• Covers senior citizens too.
• Readers of this blog get an exclusive 5% discount

🛖 Top experiences in your trip to Ethiopia

Trekking among tens of thousands of baboons.

A rugged, mountain range composed of insanely vertiginous cliffs and several peaks above 4000 meters and inhabited by, literally, thousands and thousands of an endemic species of baboon, trekking the Simien Mountains is one of the highlights of any trip to Ethiopia.

Read my experience trekking in the Simien Mountains of Ethiopia

Visiting the hottest (inhabited) place on Earth

Danakil is a vast depression popularly known for being one of the most inhospitable places on Earth, an arid, unwelcoming land filled with volcanoes and insane geological formations, colors and absolutely crazy landscapes, inhabited by a distinct ethnic group named Afar.

Read my experience visiting the Danakil Depression

Exploring ancient churches built over cliffs

Ethiopia was one of the first countries to adopt Christianity and its churches are not only some of the most ancient churches in the world, but they have been carved out from rocks located in the most unbelievable and vertiginous locations, and what is even more incredible is that they are still as functional as they used to be 1200 years ago.

Feeding wild hyenas with your mouth

In the eastern city of Harar, there is a man who has dedicated every day of his life to feeding hyenas. Those hyenas aren’t domestic but they are free, live in the wild and everyday, at around 6-7pm, a bunch of them come nearby his house to get feed some fresh, raw meet. It is possible to assist the peculiar ceremony and feed them with your own mouth.

Assisting an actual bull-jumping ceremony

A traditional ceremony celebrated by the Hamar tribe (one of the many tribes in the Omo Valley) in which a young boy jumps naked over 10 bulls in order to prove that he is ready to be married.

Before the actual ceremony, there is a party in which people from all the nearby settlements gather to drink, dance and do some other cultural stuff.

Read my experience visiting the Omo Valley on a budget

📚 Best books for planning your trip to Ethiopia

If you don’t have one yet, remember to get a Kindle for your journey, so you don’t have to carry along all your books! CLICK HERE TO GET YOURS

Ethiopia travel guide by Bradt

This is the Ethiopian Bible, definitely, the best book guide available for Ethiopia, and probably, the most complete book Bradt has ever written. A complete travel guide filled with endless insights, cultural facts and history. A must-have.

Ethiopia travel guide by Lonely Planet

It is not as complete as Bradt’s but it’s not that bad, it’s easier to read and they have a special chapter dedicated to the tiny, neighboring country of Djibouti.

🕌 Facts about the country, the people and religion

10 facts about ethiopia as a country.

1 – The Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia – It is a landlocked country in the Horn of Africa, one of the largest countries in the continent and with a population of 108,000,000.

2 – The capital of Ethiopia – The capital is Addis Ababa, often referred as the political capital of Africa, as this is the African Union Headquarters and has a strong political and diplomatic influence in all the continent.

3 – It’s a very poor country as per Western Standards – Nearly 50% of their total GDP is based on agriculture, mainly coffee. It is however, one of the most powerful and influential countries in Africa. A curious fact is that I met many Somalis from Somaliland and Eritreans whose short-term objective was migrating to Ethiopia and getting an Ethiopian passport, which is apparently better than other African passports.

4 – It’s never been colonized – Italy tried to take it over twice, at the end of the 19th century and in 1936, but they were defeated so, along with Liberia, Ethiopia is the only African country which has never been colonized, one of the reasons why it is so unique and barely has any foreign influence.

5 – Ethiopia has close ties with Eritrea – Neighboring Eritrea is Ethiopia’s little brother, a country with practically the same culture. They have the same food, religion and share a big bunch of ethnic groups. The dominant ethnic group in Eritrea are the Tigrinya, which also turn out to be one of the most influential groups also in Ethiopia, inhabiting the Tigray region, the most touristic destination in Ethiopia. Moreover, they used to be the same country until 1991. For more information, read my Eritrea travel guide .

6 – They are 6 hours ahead of anyone – The funniest fact about Ethiopia is that their time is different than ours, but they are 6 hours ahead. This means that if someone from Ethiopia tells you to meet at 18h, you need to be there at 12h. Well-educated people from Addis Ababa will talk to you in rest-of-the-world-time, so will those in the countryside who are used to dealing with tourists. But the rest of the country will not and, more often than not, if you ask them: are you talking in Ethiopian time, or faranji time? they will not know what you are talking about. You are likely to meet many travelers who missed a certain bus because of this particular fact.

7 – Ethiopia is the origin of mankind – Lucy , the oldest and most complete hominid ever discovered, dating back from more than 3 million years ago, was found in Ethiopia, in the Afar Depression.

8 – Ethiopia is an ethnic Federal state – Given the ethnic complexity, in 1994, Ethiopia was divided into 9 separate autonomous regions, each one ruled by one of the largest and most influential ethnic groups.

9 – Ethiopia was once one of the most powerful Empires – The Aksumite Empire, whose center was in today’s Tigray region and Eritrea and which ruled from 80BC to 825AD, was one of the most important empires in the Ancient World, along with Rome, Persia, and China.

10 – This is former Abyssinia – A few hundred years after the fall of the Aksumite Empire, there was a man who claimed to be a direct descendent from the last Aksumite King and managed to establish a feudalist state that lasted until 1974, when the famous Emperor Haile Selassie was overthrown and modern Ethiopia started to develop.

9 Facts about Ethiopians and their language

1 – There are two types of Ethiopian – On the one hand, you meet lovely, kind-hearted people who are always willing to help, or simply have a chat with you. And on the other hand, there are the people who try to rip you off continuously. During your Ethiopian trip, you will be meeting both types all the time and, by experience, you will be able to differentiate them easily.

(But most people are good 😉 )

Faranji , hey you, you you, faranji , you! Something I found extremely irritating (and most travelers do as well) is that, when you get into a new city or place, many people will start yelling: hey you, faranji, faranji, come here, come here! This also can happen with people you bump into in the street. In response, something very funny you can do is looking at them and say: hey you, habesha, habesha, come here, come here! Habesha means local , or Ethiopian , so you are basically telling them the same thing. Because they don’t expect such a reply from a faranji , in most occasions they will freeze, while others will laugh and probably shake your hand, turning an annoying person into a pleasant one.

2 – There are 80 distinct ethnic groups – The major groups being Oromo, Amhara, Tigray, Sidamo and Somali, which make up nearly 80% of the total population.

3 – The rest of the groups are minorities – And 45 of them live in a region named Southern Nations, Nationalities and People’s region, the vast majority being tribal people.

4 – Amharic is the official language – The lingua franca, the one used by the Government and the one used by the dominant ethnic group, the Amhara people, is Amharic.

5 – It comes from Ge’ez – Which is the language spoken in Ancient Axum and is still used today by the Ethiopian Orthodox Church.

6 – The alphabet is so cool – It’s called a syllable alphabet.

7 – But more than 80 languages are spoken – Or 70, depending on the source. Each ethnic group has a distinct language.

8 – And not everybody speaks Amharic – Especially in the tribal areas. It’s funny to think that, if certain tribal people from the south travel to Addis Ababa, they would feel more foreign and different than you do. You would certainly be more able to speak to the people than them.

9 – English is just OK – Not everybody speaks good English but in most towns, it is enough to get by.

6 Facts about religion in Ethiopia

1 – Ethiopia was the second state to officially adopt Christianity – After Armenia, in 330AD.

2 – Many Ethiopians belong to the Ethiopian Orthodox Church – Around 44% of the total population.

3 – They have a very raw way of practicing Christianity – Scholars claim that Christianity evolved directly from Judaism but, while it kept evolving to other forms of Christianity such as Catholicism or Protestantism, the Ethiopian Orthodox Church didn’t, hence it is one of the earliest forms of Christianity that clearly has some Judaic influences.

4 – People in white robes – If you see locals in traditional white robes is because they went to Church on that day. On Sunday, you will see wearing them more than usual.

5 – There are Catholics and Protestants too – Around 20%, and they mainly live in the south.

6 – Muslims make up one third of the total population – Differently to what most travelers who have already been to Ethiopia believe, more than 30% of Ethiopians are Muslim, and many foreign people don’t notice them because they inhabit regions that don’t receive many tourists, Ethiopian Somalia for example.

🍲 Ethiopian food and drinks

I have a love and hate relationship with the food in Ethiopia.

On the one hand, traditional food is healthy, mainly composed of stewed vegetables and a protein bread named injera .

On the other hand, despite the unbelievable geographical and cultural diversity, there isn’t much food variety across the country.

Anyways, injera is the cornerstone of any Ethiopian meal, a flat bread made from a local grain named tef . It is sour and has a peculiar crêpe texture and, basically, an average Ethiopian eats injera 3 times a day.

Some travelers don’t like it at all. I did like it but after 6 weeks of traveling in Ethiopia, I got particularly sick of it.

Fasting days in Ethiopia Ethiopians are very religious and besides the 40 days of Lent, the Ethiopian Orthodox Church also recognizes every Wednesday and Friday as fasting days, meaning that most restaurants will only serve vegetarian dishes.

Most popular food in Ethiopia

This is the most available and traditional dish, consisting of different kinds of stewed vegetables and curries that vary from restaurant to restaurant, but typically being spinach, potatoes, carrots and lentils.

It is very cheap, usually less than a $1, and this is what most Ethiopians eat each and every day.

Also very traditional but not as available as beyanet because this is meat-based, usually goat or sheep, hence more expensive, and many Ethiopians can’t afford to eat meat every day.

Tibs is roasted meat with beriberi, a chilly powder sauce, served, of course, along with injera .

This was my favorite dish, the Ethiopian hummus, I would say. Shiro is chickpea paste mixed with onions, garlic and bean flour. Energetic, healthy and delicious.

Shiro Tegamino

Same as shiro wat but much, much thicker and what I liked about it is that, for some reason, it was always served with normal bread, instead of injera .

This was a pretty fancy dish, typically available in expensive restaurants and consisting of a chicken stew cooked in a complex gravy.

Kita fir fir

Kita fir fir is injera with spices and chilli and it’s typically eaten for breakfast. I didn’t like really like it because it’s 95% just injera .

By the way, for breakfast, besides kita fir fir and its different varieties, ful is also very easy to find, which is small beans in tomato sauce and garlic. In the south, you may get some really tasty avocado as well.

Western food in Ethiopia

Many restaurants will serve pasta, pizza and burgers but don’t expect much of it.

In Addis Ababa, however, you can find good international food. Expensive as per Ethiopian standards, but good.

Pizza with cheese, tuna, chocolate and strawberries One day in Mekele, we went to one of the fanciest restaurants in town, a Western-style café typically frequented by the upper Ethiopian class. I ordered a pizza, one that was called calazori, just because it had tuna in it but, to my surprise, they brought me kind of a crêpe covered with chocolate and strawberries. No, I didn’t order this, but I ordered a calazori pizza . He opened the crêpe, which was made of pizza bread, to show me that the actual pizza ingredients were inside. By default, I don’t like chocolate, but that mix was disgusting anyways, so I told her to just change it for a normal pizza without chocolate. Anyways, my point is that, outside of Addis Ababa, don’t have big expectations of Western food.

Beer in Ethiopia

Beer is a big deal in Ethiopia and they have a lot of brands.

The best part is that Ethiopian beer is so cheap, one bottle never costing more than 17 birr in local places, which is less than 50 cents.

Coffee in Ethiopia

Ethiopia is coffee’s birthplace and, today, it is a very important part of their economy and exports.

Traditional style coffee is called buna and pretty much on any corner all around the country, you will see a lady preparing it in a clay pot named a jebena , and serving it in small cups. It’s good, and so cheap, around 5 birr (like 15 cents), but they may charge you double in touristic areas.

💻 Internet and connectivity in Ethiopia

Wi-Fi is really, really bad all over the country.

Even when hotel owners try to sell you the beautiful idea that their hotel prices include Wi-Fi and breakfast, just assume that most likely, Wi-Fi won’t work and, if it does, it’s terribly slow.

If you want to connect to the internet, you must get a SIM Card and telecommunications in Ethiopia is a monopoly controlled by Ethio Telecom .

Their mobile internet isn’t the fastest ever but it’s decent and if, like me, you have to work online while on the road, it’s good enough for creating a hotspot and do regular browsing.

It wasn’t very expensive but it wasn’t cheap at all as per Ethiopian standards.

Get a VPN for traveling in Ethiopia

You should always use a VPN when you travel, especially when you connect to public Wi-Fi networks.

Your connection will be much safer. 

Moreover, you will be able to access content which is typically censored in Ethiopia. 

I recommend ExpressVPN – Extremely easy to use, fast and cheap. 

If you want to learn more about VPN, check: Why you need a VPN for traveling .

💰 Backpacking in Ethiopia: need to know about money, budget & costs

In Ethiopia, they use the Ethiopian Birr (ETB) and, approximately:

1 USD = 53 ETB

Something I remember is that Ethiopian bank notes are some of the dirtiest I have ever seen, to the extent that when I got back home and finally touched some clean ones, it was a real reverse cultural shock.

Always have some hand sanitizer handy with you. In fact, in Ethiopia I got a small eye infection and I suspect it was because of rubbing my eye after touching some of those notes.

Black market rate in Ethiopia

In Ethiopia, there is a black market rate, which can be sometimes double the bank rate .

This means that, at the bank, if the exchange rate is 53, in the black market you can get it for up to 100, but only in Addis Ababa.

That’s why, in order to take advantage of this rate, it is recommended to come to Ethiopia with all your money in cash.

There is black market all over the country but in Addis Ababa you will get the best rate, especially near Meskel Square.

Just ask around where can you exchange your foreign currency.

However, bear in mind that, at first, they will tell you a very shitty rate, so remember to bargain.

ATMs in Ethiopia

In big cities, you can find ATMs, no problem, and they always accepted my foreign credit card. Sometimes they run out of cash though.

Nonetheless, remember that when withdrawing money, you will always get the bank rate.

Faranji and habesha price

In Ethiopia, there is a dual pricing, like I had never seen before: faranji and habesha .

Faranji means foreigner and habesha local .

In restaurants for example, food and drinks in the English menu may cost up to 3 times the habesha price and, if you believe you can grab the local menu and point out any meal marked with the original price, then you are wrong because they will always charge you the faranji price.

Moving around by local bus is also very frustrating because you know they will charge you double, or triple if they can, and negotiating is always a pain because you need to get angry, or even yelling at them, something they don’t usually expect.

I found this extremely frustrating and one of the worst things about traveling in Ethiopia.

And if you think, however, that this is how things work in their culture, I think you are wrong because I talked about this subject with many Ethiopians and they also agreed that it isn’t the right way to treat foreign tourists.

I can understand they charge double in touristic places but why do you have to pay a faranji price if you take the local bus or eat in a local restaurant?

Independent travel in Ethiopia. How much does it cost?

Traveling in Ethiopia on a backpacking budget is cheap and below is a list of the price of the most typical things.

How much does food & drink cost in Ethiopia?

Please note that, in very touristic areas such as Lalibela, paying these amounts can be very challenging but those are the prices assuming you pay the local price, so take it as a base reference.

• Vegetarian local meal like beyanet or shiro : 30 to 50 birr
• Non-vegetarian local meal like tibs : 50-70 birr
• Meal in a nice restaurant: main dishes from 100 birr
• Beer: 15-20 birr
• 1kg of pretty much any fruit (mango, avocado, etc): 30 birr
• Local coffee (buna): 5 birr
• Coffee (machiato, espresso): 15 birr
• 2l mineral water plastic bottle: 15 birr

How much does accommodation cost in Ethiopia?

• Local hotels (creepy ones): 100 birr
• Nice, decent accommodation: 300-600 birr
• Mid-range hotels: from 700 birr

How much does transportation cost in Ethiopia?

• Short local bus ride: 20 to 40 birr
• Long distance bus ticket (Addis Ababa to Gonder): 300 birr
• Domestic flight: $50-$100 one-way
• Local shared taxi (Lalibela to Mekele): 600 birr (This will highly depend on your negotiations skills. For example, two tourists who were traveling in the same car paid 1500 birr).

How much does a tour cost in Ethiopia?

• Danakil Depression 2-day tour: $250
• Omo Valley: $100-$150 a day
• Simien Mountains 3-day trek: $170
• Entrance fee to Lalibela: $50

Average daily budget for backpacking in Ethiopia (independent travel)

Assuming you don’t take any domestic flights and travel by local bus, the minimum a budget backpacker will spend is:

$35-40 a day

⚠️ Is it safe to travel to Ethiopia?

That’s a complicated question.

Overall, I feel Ethiopia is a safe country to visit, but let’s go by parts.

The conflict with the Tigray

The Tigray war was a conflict between the Ethiopian Federal Government and the Tigray People’s Liberation, which lasted from November 2020 to November 2022, causing thousands of casualties and displaced people.

The war isolated completely the whole region of Tigray in the north, home to highlights like Axum, Mekele ( Danakil getaway ) and hundreds of rock-hewn churches.

Today, the war is over and the Tigray region is once again accessible.

Pickpocketing is real

Not bluffing, if you are not careful, you are likely to be pickpocketed in Ethiopia.

I have only been pickpocketed in two countries: in Mexico, and in Ethiopia.

Actually, in Ethiopia it happened to me twice, in 2 different areas of Tigray region. On one occasion they stole my brand-new GoPro, and on the second time they took my wallet with my credit card in it.

This can happen anywhere but in here chances are way higher, so be careful of your belongings.

I strongly recommend you get a money belt ! CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE!

By the way, in big cities, especially in Addis Ababa, never walk alone at night. Your physical integrity is unlikely to be threatened but there is a high chance of being mugged.

Terrorism in Ethiopia

According to the FCO, the Ethiopian travel advice is that you should avoid the Somali province and the area or Gambella, which borders a conflict area of South Sudan.

There is an existing terrorism threat in Ethiopia but it is limited to the Ethiopian Somalia region, the province that borders Somalia.

Since I traveled to Ethiopia from Somaliland by land, I did cross that region and you could really feel the tension and threat I am talking about.

The security measures were insane. Every X km, there was a police checkpoint in which everybody from the bus had to get off and the police would check every single bag, one by one. It was very annoying.

Outside of Ethiopian Somalia, however, I never had or saw any issue.

Danakil Depression

You may have heard that Danakil Depression comes with its own issues and for that, I recommend you read my travel guide .

💃 Solo female travel in Ethiopia

Here’s the deal.

I traveled in Ethiopia as a solo man, so I can’t really speak for women, but I’ll just give you a small summary of what some kick-ass female travelers told me.

Most women said that Ethiopia was safe but the level of verbal harassment was insane, to the extent that some claim they’ll never go back to Ethiopia.

Many local men believe Western girls are easy and you may have to deal with occasional sex offers and creepy compliments. In fact, I was once with a girl from London and witnessed how a very disgusting man would just stare at her and do some creepy movements with his tongue.

Despite being predominantly a Christian country, Ethiopia is a conservative, patriarchal society in which men tend to be sexist.

Nevertheless, all women said that harassment was always verbal and, other than that, they had great fun in Ethiopia.

If you are female traveler who has been to Ethiopia and wants to write a guest post for Against the Compass, please get in touch.

Here you can see more solo female travel articles .

🛺 Transportation tips: how to travel around Ethiopia

Ethiopia is a big country and as such, moving around can prove challenging. Here are some travel tips:

Traveling around Ethiopia by coach (long-distance bus)

From Addis Ababa, you can always take a long distance bus to major destinations such as Arba Minch, Harar, Gonder or Meskel. Most buses are quite comfortable, some more than others; it doesn’t depend on the company but on the type of bus.

Selam for example, good reputable company.

Buses leave from Meskel Square and typically, they all leave at 4am, which is very annoying but given the long distances, it does make sense.

Book your tickets one or two days before. Unfortunately, you can’t book them online but you need to go to Meskel Square itself, where all company stalls are.

There is a way of booking them over the phone, but it’s a real headache.

Basically, you need to call the bus company and tell them which coach you want to take. They will give you a bank account number in which you need to deposit the respective amount. For that, you need to go to the bank but, when I got there, it was so crowded and such a mess that I thought it would be easier to take a taxi to the square.

Ethiopia travel tip: At Meskel Square, you will be approached by local men who claim they work for a specific bus company, saying they can take you to the respective office. Well, they don’t actually work for the company but they want to get a tip for helping you book your ticket, so just ignore them.

Traveling around Ethiopia by local bus

If you are backpacking in Ethiopia on a budget, you will take the local bus.

Taking the local bus in Ethiopia isn’t very different from other developing countries, but just bear in mind that distances here are huge. I personally got really tired and decided not to take any during the last 2 weeks of my trip.

Moreover, you will always have to battle to get a decent price, which will never be great because they always end up saying that you have to pay extra for the luggage, which is completely bullshit.

In the end, they always win.

Traveling around Ethiopia by plane

If you are not on backpacking on a budget, I recommend you take a few domestic flights.

From Addis, there are direct flights connecting any major touristic city, including Lalibela, Gonder, Axum, Harar and even the Omo Valley .

There are direct flights between secondary cities too but maybe not everyday and, worst case scenario, you will have to make quick layover in Addis.

Traveling around Ethiopia by air will save you a lot of time and energy.

All flight are operated by Ethiopian Airlines, a modern, reliable company, and any one-way flight ticket averages $100.

One of the best travel tips for Ethiopia is that, If you fly in with Ethiopian Airlines, you get a 50% discount in all domestic flights and, if you only have a few weeks to travel in Ethiopia, you may want to get 1 or 2 at least. However, I didn’t fly in with Ethiopian Airlines but, when I booked my domestic flight via their website, there was a tick box which you could mark claiming you actually did fly with them, so the discount was applied anyways. At the check-in counter, no questions were asked. Nonetheless, I just checked their website, and the tick box is gone (it comes and goes) so in that case, if you still want to get your discount, most people book their tickets directly at the Ethiopian Airlines office, which you can find everywhere.

Traveling around Ethiopia by train

There is one train line connecting Addis Ababa with Djibouti country via Dire Dawa (the closest big city to Harar). It runs every other day, one day towards Addis Ababa and one day towards Djibouti.

A one-way ticket from Dire Dawa to Addis Ababa costs 600 birr (price for foreigners).

The train has been built by the Chinese and it’s funny that, at every station, you see Chinese people telling Ethiopian employees what to do.

Traveling by train is always great but I will never catch the Ethiopian train again, for the following reasons:

• It’s very unreliable. We stopped for around 3 hours due to a bus breakdown. Also, the day I was supposed to catch it, the train never arrived because of another breakdown, so had to wait for one additional day.
• The train station is very far away from the city. Good luck negotiating the price of a taxi ride. When I arrived in Addis, they wanted to charge me 500 birr, and I ended up paying 300.
• Very long queues for getting in and out, as the authorities check each and every bag and, since they don’t have x-ray machines, they basically make everyone empty their bags.
• The train itself isn’t very comfortable, plus they don’t sell any food, only sodas.
• It’s an extremely busy train with loads of kids roaming around.

🏨 Accommodation: where to stay in Ethiopia

Ethiopia is well-sorted for hotels, some of them being very good value for money options.

You can check them all on booking.com .

Most hotels owners will ask you to pay in USD but, as I told you in the money section, better to exchange those USD in the black market, get 20% extra, and then pay your hotel in birr.

Creepy hotels – When I was passing through a city, I had to stay on 1 or 2 occasions in one of those creepy hotels which are OK for 6 hours and cost less than 4USD. They are all over the country

Backpacking Hostels – You can find some in Addis Ababa and also in cities like Gonder.

Guest Houses, nicer hotels – Decent accommodation costs from 400 to 600 birr for a double room, and you can find them everywhere, all over the country.

Mid-range hotels – There is also a wide range of relatively good hotels, all of them starting at 900 birr or so.

❗ More resources for traveling in Ethiopia

📢 In my Travel Resources Page you can find the list of all the sites and services I use to book hotels, tours, travel insurance and more.

Useful websites for more Ethiopia travel tips

All Addis Around – For everything related to events, restaurants and bars in the capital.

Migrationology – For anything related to Ethiopian food.

All guides and articles for traveling in Ethiopia destination

• Omo Valley Travel Guide
• A City Guide to Lalibela
• Danakil Depression Travel Guide
• Trekking Guide in Simien Mountains

Travel guides to other countries in Africa

• Eritrea Travel Guide
• Somaliland Travel Guide
• Travel Guide to Sudan
• Travel Guide to Egypt
• Libya Travel Guide
• Mali Travel Guide
• Travel Guide to Mauritania
• Tunisia Travel Guide

This Ethiopia travel blog was a long one, a post in which I put so much effort, and time! I hope you find it useful and if you have any questions or suggestions, leave a comment in the ”comments” section.

30 comments

Hello! Thank you for all of this wonderfully detailed information! I have a few questions: Are toiletries easy to find? Things like shampoo, body soap, sunscreen, mosquito repellant, etc? Are over the counter medicines available? Like Ibuprofen, Pepto-Bismol, etc. What kind of converter for electronics should be used? Thank you in advance!

Hello Maree! Yes, toiletries are very easy to find. Outside of main cities, you may no be able to find international brands but they do have local brands. Counter medicines are available everywhere. About mosquito repellant, is better to bring it from your home country. In my experience in Africa, I have always found it expensive and not the best quality. For electronics, they use regular EU connector.

What was your experience, i intend to go there this december

I’ve travelled to Ethiopia six times or so over the last ten years. The first time I carefully brought along a crisp US20 dollar note for my visa on arrival. As more tourists have come, the price has risen, but it’s become even easier to get the visa. I really wouldn’t bother getting the Evisa as very often the queue for the Evisa is longer than the visa on arrival. And no need for pristine US dollars, they take pounds, euros and card as well.

Hello Joan,

Thanks for sharing your vast travel experience in Ethiopia. Would you know if there is any buses going from Lamu in Kenya, all the way to Lalibali? And if crossing that frontier is a hassle? The alternative is flying to Addis but with the layover there I think a bus would be faster. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

I dont think there aren’t direct buses from Kenya to Lalibela. It’s just too remote.

Im interested in traveling to Lilabela but concerned about the current of civil war in Ethiopia. Is it safe for senior age Black Americans to visit? If so could you recommend a tour guy?

Hi there, as far as I know, Lalibela is still within the safe area, but the city is out of electricity and there are no tourists.

correction of email below

Speaking to my in laws who live in Addis, who have relatives in the North- NOT a good idea to be travelling as a tourist outside of AA.

so sorry to bother you but would you please elaborate a little? I am currently in addis ababa and i’ve asked around and have received conflicting answers. (I think also due to language barriers but) some say it is totally fine. Others say I’m crazy to go around.

Would love some first hand info from people who are currently here. Thank you in advance.

Hello, well not being in Addis right now it seems like you’re in a better place to find out:) The UK Foreign Office has got some very detailed advice on its website- says Lalibella is ok. I would read that carefully. And whatever you do, don’t go to Tigray. Good luck.

We will be near Ethiopia in late March 2023 and would love to visit Lalibela holy land churches for 3-4 days. Could you advise how to tour them if we fly from Addis Ababa? We are Black Americans and do not know the local language. Thank you.

hi, there’s a tourist office in Lalibela, in the center of the town, where you can buy the tickets

Actually one and half day is enough to visit all the 11 rock cut churches. You could visit some county side churches combining hike to the highlander farmer village where you see their way of life, even take part in their daily activities… Lalibela based tour agent “Highland Eco trekking tours” is known for organizing authentic experience in the area

To Dr King: We went a couple years ago and used a guide named Alex Aregaw( +251 92 019 0138 on Whatsapp or [email protected] by email). He’s also on TripAdvisor: https://en.tripadvisor.com.hk/ShowUserReviews-g480193-d7033629-r793913298-Lalibela_Local_Tour-Lalibela_Amhara_Region.html he is the guy in the mask and white shawl in the first photo. His English is good and he’s very polite and nice to deal with. I occasionally keep touch with him on Instagram, and apparently a few tourists are trickling back now, and water and electricity are back, after they were destroyed when the TPLF invaded last Christmas.

For the author of the article: I’m amazed you got pickpocketed twice in Tigray! We spent like 15 days in various parts of Tigray and never encountered any crowds or groups of people, even in Axum and Mekele. We even had not been locking our car — I realized after we had been driving it for like 10 days that when closing the driver’s side door, it automatically unlocked the car — and no one ever stole the GoPro out of our windshield. But, I was always parking in hotel parking lots or I had been paying a local guy to watch the car if I parked in the street.

Thanks for your advice EG. Truly appreciate it. Peace

Hi, thanks for the useful information. How long do you suggest for a trip in Ethiopia ? I’m planning to cross the border from Sudan and after Ethiopia move on to the next bordering country. Regards, Suné from South Africa 🇿🇦

difficult to say! I spent there 6 weeks, the country is huge! but from crossing from north to south save at least 3 weeks for all the highlights!

Hello, This is very informative. What about getting sick from drinking the water or eating food, for someone who has not been there before? What precautions should one take?

I’d only drink mineral bottled water and be careful on where to eat meat

We just returned from Ethiopia. We travelled as a family with a 8 y.o. child. We’ve been in the Omo Valley with Lalo Tours. They gave the best price from the beginning. 400 USD for 2 days 2 nights everything included. It was the best part of Ethiopia trip. After this we went in Danakil with ETT after long negotiations we have obtained 900 USD for 3 days 2 nights tour. This part was very adventurous. 2 nights sleeping under the sky. You can have mosquitos, wind and dust. Beautiful and incredible sceneries. Don’t expect more than basic conditions for food and accommodation. You should come preprepared. After this it followed Lalibela where we had the best accommodation in all Ethiopia at Ben Abbeba local guide for 40 USD payable in in Birr.

Some tips and tricks:

1. Don’t use ATMs or official exchange offices. Come with USD in cash and change it in Addis on black market. We managed to change it for 99.5 for 1 USD (We heard about 110 for 1 USD). Go to Meskele sq pick up a restaurant and ask discreetly about changing money. Like this all the prices will drop to almost 50% for you.

2. In Addis specially look up for pickpocketing, snatching of the phone from hand, etc. We didn’t experience but we met people who did. So be very aware. We used money belt for USD transportation. For birr it is impossible because you will get a lot of birrs for your USD. Use a backpack.

3. In Addis use Ride app for ridesharing. Select pay in cash and you will have dirt cheap rides.

4. Everywhere it said that if you use international flight with Ethiopian Airlines you will have almost 50% discount for internal flight. Is nobody checking this. So, I believe if you tick on their website that you have am international ticket with them, it will work even if don’t have in reality. More than this if you want to be sure and you don’t have luggage you can make online check-in and you will not face any question from anyone. Another trick is that if you have international flight with them, once in Addis change your USD in birr on black market and after this go to Ethiopian Airlines Office and buy your domestic tickets with cash. Like this you will have the smallest prices.

5. Political situation. It can become quite instable sudden. During our stay in Amhara started some violent demonstrations, especially Gondar. In Lalibela was peaceful, but we didn’t have mobile internet, and, in some parts, we heard a lot of gun shots, the locals said that people buy weapons and test them… Keep an eye on BBC section for Ethiopia and western embassies. Local guides we will tend to minimize the danger, but it is there.

6. If travelling with children, be aware of the sanitation conditions. Ours got food poisoned and for 3 days it was a nightmare with continuously vomiting, diarrhea, high fever, fatigue In Addis we didn’t find any antidiarrheic medicine, just antibiotics that worked finally. We also faced another problem, that by our mistake, we had all the medications in the luggage and Ethiopian Airlines lost them for 10 days. So, travelling with small children can become difficult.

7. Erta Ale volcano activity. It is totally different from the lava lake that you can see it on YouTube. Now there are 2 small volcanic cones like 3-4m in diameter that spit lava. Guides said that the situation is changing each day. You can see the lava or if unlucky only smoke. Be prepared because the smoke can be quite irritating. A face musk can help but not too much. Especially with children in Dallol area you will fill incredibly hot. Drink plenty of water, otherwise there are chances to faint from heat. The guides and agencies are totally unprepared for something like this. You will not have somebody with you permanently to take care. You must handle it on your own.

I will be happy to answer to other questions if there are any. Safe travel for everybody!

Buf! this is one the best travel report/feedback we’ve ever got in ATC. Thanks a lot Vladimir!

I’ve just been researching the visa situation for Ethiopia, and came across your site. The fees are currently vastly different to what you have here ($82 for a 30 day visa, $202 for 90 days, extension $102 and $302 respectively). Your site is very interesting. I am planning an overland trip from Cairo to Cape Town early 2024. 😀

It seems they increased prices, thanks a lot for the update!

I’ll be a black American solo female traveler in 2024 to AA and this detailed info has me excited and informed instead of intimidated and uncomfortable. Fortunately, I currently live in Washington, DC in an Ethiopian community where these beautiful people are my neighbors and small business owners. Daily I interact with them, learn a word or two of Amharic, and eat their food (which I also have a love/hate relationship with ;)) Safe travels, everyone!

Have a lovely trip Chelsea!

You are out of date on. VISAS. Embassies no longer do them VOA no longer available unless you are from an AU country. So you must use e visa..where prices now 82 and 202 dollars…for 1/3 months.

thanks for the update!

You really are amazing. Thanks for the very interesting and comprehensive info. I have 2 friends who have just come back from travelling in Ethiopia and I am planning a trip there myself.

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Ethiopia is Africa’s second largest country by population and 10th largest by size so there is a lot to know and be aware of. We are locally born in Ethiopia and educated here. We know the country, the terrain and the people. Professionally qualified and certified to take charge of Ethiopian tourist expeditions, we promise to take care of you and provide you an experience like no other. Despite Ethiopia being known as a poor country, you will still feel that touch of luxury with our modern, top-quality transportation and accommodation services.

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o Famous for their body and face painting, the Karo people are a Nilotic ethnic group that resides along the east banks of the river in southern Ethiopia. With an estimated population between 1000 and 3000, the Karo tribe is one of the smallest tribes amongst the Omo...

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    1. Kiondo Kiondo is a beautiful handbag hand-woven by the local artisans from the Kamba and Kikuyu tribes of Kenya. You can choose from a variety of colors and sizes. The bags are made from fibers; they are long-lasting and light-weighted, which makes it...

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Visiting Ethiopia: A Traveler's Guide

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Ethiopia is not your typical African travel brochure destination. There are no Big 5 mammals to be spotted here, no enormous shape-shifting sand dunes, no massive congregations of wildlife in a tiny watering hole.

What you get instead is history long before humans existed, a landscape defined by verdant highlands rich in wildlife and hypnotic geological depressions devoid of any signs of life, and fewer tourists to get in the way of an epic photo. But that also means fewer people who could share what their trip was like. So if you are headed to Ethiopia and want to make the most out of your trip, here’s a brief guide to get your bearings early.

Travel Slowly to Acclimatize Yourself

Seventy percent (70%) of all of Africa’s mountains are in Ethiopia, and you can see this is so in the northern highlands where the elevation ranges from 2000 to 3000 meters above sea level. If you are heading for the mountains, know that 25 of the country’s highest peaks are above 4000 MASL. The Simien Mountains where the grass-eating Gelada baboons can be found stand at an average elevation of 4500 MASL. And while you’re in the vicinity, it’s worth your detour to visit the fairy tale castles and palaces of Gondar nicknamed the Camelot of Africa.

Dress Conservatively

As in countries where Islam is practiced, it is proper to be modest in your dress, which means no sleeveless or tank tops and shorts for women, and no shorts and singlets for men. (And don’t go topless altogether!) Outside of the capital Addis Ababa where some women wear jeans, women far from the influence of the city wear long flowing skirts that are breathable and fend off dust.

If you plan on having an active holiday, pack a set of lightweight long-sleeved tops and pants, layers in natural fabrics like linen, cotton and bamboo, a set of warm of clothes to withstand the cold in high altitudes, windproof and waterproof jacket, and sturdy hiking boots with good ankle support if you wish to see the incredible rock-hewn churches of Lalibela in the north.

Don’t Expect to See Cutlery With Your Food

Eating the traditional ‘injera,’ whether at restaurants in Addis Ababa or in rural eateries, requires no utensils. Injera is a crepe-like flatbread placed on a large round platter and topped with a colorful variety of curries, meats and vegetable stews. You cut off a portion of the bread and use that to scoop up your desired toppings, in effect eating your edible table cloth/plate/utensil as the meal progresses.

But if you think that is too exotic for your taste, wait until you are seated with Ethiopians and welcomed with “gursha,” an act of hospitality (or friendship or love among those who have already known each other) done by putting a pinch of injera straight into your mouth. It’s how the locals break ice with honored guests. (And yes, always use your right hand when eating or passing anything to anyone in Ethiopia.)

Prepare to Experience Three Rounds of Coffee at a Traditional Coffee Ceremony

In homage to coffee’s Ethiopian roots, coffee ceremonies in Ethiopia are sacred, an event that takes place three times a day, morning, noon and night. These ceremonies are elaborate, performed by the woman of the house dressed in white flowing garment adorned with embroidery. The ritual starts with the burning of incense to ward off evil spirits, and continues on with the roasting and husking of the coffee beans, and finally the grinding of the roasted beans for boiling. If you are invited to this ritual, you have to finish at least three rounds of drinking coffee before it’s polite to bow out of the ceremony, as the third round is thought to bestow blessing and transform the spirit.

Survey the Remains of the Ancient Kingdom in Axum

Ethiopia is one of the oldest countries on earth, with a documented history stretching as far back as 25 centuries. The center of this ancient history is at Axum, the ancient capital of the Kingdom of Aksum, one of oldest continuously inhabited places in Africa. Ethiopian tradition suggests that Makeda, the Queen of Sheba who lived here, visited King Solomon and came back home pregnant with his child. That child, Menelik, journeyed to his father’s homeland and brought home the Ark of the Covenant now housed at the Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion. You may not be able to get a look at this sacred relic, but there are plenty of monuments lying about to marvel at. Dating from the 3rd and 4th centuries AD, Axumite granite obelisks called stelae pierce the sky with their incredible height (some as tall as 82 feet), an engineering feat remarkable at its time.

Peer Into the “Gateway of Hell” in the Danakil Depression

There are very few places on earth where you can look down directly into the throbbing heart of the planet gurgling red hot lava, and Ethiopia is one of those rare places where you get to marvel at the raw power of the natural forces that make the earth go round. Getting to Danakil Depression (also known as Afar Depression) is no mean feat either, as you will have to brave an adventure on a road(less) less travelled. But if you wish to see the mesmerizing lava lake of Erta Ale, prepare for the dry, dusty and blisteringly hot caravan and hike to this extreme environment. For some people, this is literally a hike to hell. Dehydration and exhaustion, as well as local security issues, are real threats to this type of expedition. This is one situation where choosing a reputable tour operator is well worth your money and safety.

Find a Locally Respected Guide

Some remote villages, like those in the Afar region, may not appreciate surprise visits from wide-eyed tourists. If you wish to see the behind-the-scenes of village or tribe life, it pays to have a local guide with good ties to the community and an insider knowledge (often helped by the ability to speak several dialects, especially when dealing with the many tribes in the Omo River Valley) to get you to more authentic experiences that big box tour operators don’t usually deliver.

Plan Your Trip Around “Genna”

For Ethiopian Orthodox Christians, Christmas doesn’t come until the 7th of January (as per Ethiopia’s Julian calendar). This event marks the end of their 40-day fast (similar to the Catholic Lent), and rightly celebrated by massive feasts and parade. Just a few weeks later, on January 19th, Orthodox Christians celebrate the Epiphany, or Timkat, donning traditional garb and taking out the replica of the mythical Ark of the Covenant from every church in town to be paraded around by priests in flowing garment. By traveling during this time of the year, not only do you get to witness local customs and traditions, you also get to travel around the country when the rains have subsided, the country roads less dusty, and the mountains still wrapped in lush green.

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Explore Ethiopia

Plan Your Trip to Ethiopia: Best of Ethiopia Tourism

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Ethiopia Tours and Trips 2024/2025

Ethiopia is one of the world’s most historically rich countries; archaeological digs in the area have uncovered artefacts dating back more than 3 million years! A visit to Addis Ababa features some cultural museums and hiking opportunities on Mount Entoto. Or, tour the ancient city of Gondar , with its walled fortress and palace from the 17th-century.

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6 Trips in Ethiopia with 76 Reviews

• Starts Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
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Ethiopia: Africa’s Hidden Treasure

• Activities Sightseeing Tours & Museum and gallery visits Sightseeing Tours , Museum and gallery visits , Cultural, religious and historic sites & Wildlife 'data-more-tripid='27877'>+2 more
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• Activities Sightseeing Tours & Wildlife Sightseeing Tours , Wildlife , National parks , Cultural, religious and historic sites , Nature and bush walks , Local culture , Road trips & Waterfalls 'data-more-tripid='27875'>+6 more
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Charming Ethiopia

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• Starts Benishangul, Ethiopia
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Ethiopia Tour Reviews

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Ethiopia - Tour Highlights and Travel Tips

Ethiopia is an African nation located on the continent’s Eastern Horn (Horn of Africa). It is home to over 74 million people, and aside from Nigeria, contains the highest population in Africa. Many historians regard Ethiopia as the place of human origin as the country holds the distinction of being one of the oldest nations in the world.

Travel Highlights

• Take a hike along the Simen mountains in one of many unique variety of national parks.
• Go to southern Ethiopia to get a glimpse of Lake Chamo, and also to learn a little about how ancient tribes got on.
• Check out Ethiopia’s capital Addis Ababa for some shopping. While you're there, visit the Addis Ababa University, which is Africa's largest University.
• Your trip to Ethiopia is incomplete without trying ‘Injera’, sponge-like sourdough often served with soup.

Travel Tips

• Learn a little Amharic, Ethiopia’s national language, for your dealings with the locals.
• Ethiopia is also for the most part low-crime. Usually, western Ethiopia is the best place for travelers due to lesser known conflicts.
• Be vigilant and careful in the areas that lay in the borders with Sudan and Kenya. These have been periodical hotbeds of crime.
• Be careful of people who may drum up a pity story to dupe you out of some cash.
• Don't be afraid to explore places that are deemed safe for tourists.

Ethiopia has seasonal weather so please do check up on the best time to visit Ethiopia before planning your tour. And if you’re still hunting for more things to do and places to explore in Ethiopia, do check out our Ethiopia Travel Guide for more information.

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Ethiopia Travel Information Introduction

Ethiopia’s uniqueness makes it a fascinating destination for every kind of traveller, but in particular for the traveller who wants that bit more. Ethiopia’s historic sites are extremely wide-ranging and possibly the most extensive in the whole of Sub-Saharan Africa . Experts claim that such sites are only a fraction of what Ethiopia has to offer given that a further 95% remain to be discovered and excavated. 

There are seven cultural sites which are included in the UNESCO World Heritage list such as the Simien Mountains with their National Parks, the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela , the Castles of Gondar plus many other cultural and archaeological sites. 

Ethiopia is a destination for travellers with curiosity and a love of exceptional landscapes. 

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Ethiopia Travel Advisory

Travel advisory july 31, 2023, ethiopia - level 3: reconsider travel.

Reissued with obsolete COVID-19 page links removed.

Reconsider travel to Ethiopia due to  sporadic violent conflict, civil unrest, crime, communications disruptions, terrorism and kidnapping in border areas .

Do Not Travel To:

• Tigray Region and border with Eritrea due to  sporadic violent conflict, civil unrest, and crime .
• Afar-Tigray   border areas  due  to sporadic violent conflict, civil unrest, and crime .
• Amhara Region due to  sporadic violent conflict and civil unrest .
• Gambella and Benishangul Gumuz Regions due to  crime, kidnapping, ethnically motivated violence, and sporadic violent conflict
• Oromia Region – Specific areas due to sporadic violent conflict, civil unrest, and ethnically motivated violence.
• Southern Nations and National People (SNNP) Region due to  sporadic violent conflict, civil unrest, and ethnically motivated violence.
• Border area with Somalia due to  terrorism, kidnapping, and landmines .
• Border areas with Sudan, and South Sudan due to  crime, kidnapping, civil unrest, and sporadic violent conflict.
• Border areas with Kenya due to the potential for  terrorism and ethnically motivated violence.

The security situation in Addis Ababa is stable. However, there is sporadic violent conflict and civil unrest in other areas of Ethiopia, and the security situation may deteriorate without warning. The U.S. Embassy is unlikely to be able to assist with departure from the country if the security situation deteriorates. Due to sporadic violent conflict and civil unrest throughout parts of Ethiopia, travel by U.S. government personnel is routinely assessed for additional restrictions. Please see information on  What the Department of State Can and Can't Do in a Crisis .

U.S. officials have limited ability to provide services to U.S. citizens outside of Addis Ababa and have very limited consular access to U.S. citizens detained by Ethiopian authorities. The government of Ethiopia has previously restricted or shut down internet, cellular data, and phone services before, during, and after civil unrest. These restrictions impede the U.S. Embassy’s ability to communicate with and provide consular services to U.S. citizens in Ethiopia.

Please contact the Embassy’s American Citizen Services Unit at  [email protected]  for further assistance.

Read the  country information page  for additional information about travel to Ethiopia.

If you decide to travel to Ethiopia:

• Monitor local media for breaking events and be prepared to adjust your plans.
• Be aware of your surroundings.
• Stay alert in locations frequented by U.S. citizens/Westerners/foreign travelers.
• Carry a copy of your passport and visa and leave originals in your hotel safe.
• Have evacuation plans that do not rely on U.S. government assistance.
• Enroll in the  Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP)  to receive Alerts and make it easier to locate you in an emergency.
• Alerts and make it easier to locate you in an emergency.
• Follow the Department of State on  Facebook  and  Twitter .
• Review the  Country Security Report for Ethiopia .
• U.S. citizens who travel abroad should always have a contingency plan for emergency situations. Review the  Traveler’s Checklist.
• Visit the CDC page for the latest  Travel Health Information  related to your travel.

Tigray Region and Border with Eritrea – Do Not Travel

Due to sporadic violent conflict, civil unrest, and crime, the Tigray Region and the border with Eritrea are restricted for travel by U.S. government personnel, with limited exceptions to support humanitarian capacity and priority diplomatic engagement efforts. Border roads with Eritrea are closed and conditions at the border may change with no warning.

Afar-Tigray Border Area – Do Not Travel

Due to sporadic violent conflict, civil unrest, and crime, the Afar-Tigray border area is restricted for travel by U.S. government personnel, with limited exceptions to support humanitarian capacity and priority diplomatic engagement efforts.

Amhara Region – Do Not Travel 

Due to sporadic violent conflict and civil unrest, the Amhara Region is currently off-limits for U.S. government personnel, with limited exceptions to support humanitarian capacity and priority diplomatic engagement efforts.

Gambella Region – Do Not Travel

Due to crime, kidnapping, the potential for ethnically motivated violence, and sporadic violent conflict, the Gambella Region is restricted for travel by U.S. government personnel, with limited exceptions to support humanitarian capacity and priority diplomatic engagement efforts.

Benishangul Gumuz Region – Do Not Travel

Due to crime, kidnapping, the potential for ethnically motivated violence and sporadic violent conflict, the Benishangul Gumuz Region   is restricted for travel by U.S. government personnel, with limited exceptions to support humanitarian capacity and priority diplomatic engagement efforts.

Oromia Region – Specific Areas – Do Not Travel

Due to sporadic violent conflict, civil unrest, and ethnically motivated violence, the following zones in Oromia are restricted for travel by U.S. government personnel, with limited exceptions to support humanitarian capacity and priority diplomatic engagement efforts: the entirety of Horro-Guduru Wollega, East Wollega, West Wollega, Kelem Wollega, Illubabor, and Bale. Other areas in Oromia include portions of North, West, and Southwest Shewa to the immediate north and west of Addis Ababa; the Boset and Fentale woredas of East Shewa zone between Welenchiti and Awash; portions of the Borena zone surrounding Bule Hora; and portions of Guji zone to the east of Bule Hora.

Southern Nations and National People (SNNP) Region – Specific Areas – Do Not Travel

Due to sporadic violent conflict, civil unrest, and ethnically motivated violence the following towns and areas in SNNP are restricted for travel by U.S. government personnel, with limited exceptions to support humanitarian capacity and priority diplomatic engagement efforts: Gedeo, Konso zones and the Amaro and Derashe special woredas.

Border Area with Somalia – Do Not Travel

Terrorists maintain a presence in Somali towns near the Ethiopian border, presenting a risk of cross-border attacks and kidnappings. Landmines are present in this region. U.S. government personnel are not permitted to travel to the border areas with Somalia, with limited exceptions to support humanitarian capacity efforts.

Border Areas with Sudan and South Sudan – Do Not Travel

Crime, kidnapping, the potential for ethnically motivated violence, and sporadic violent conflict exist near the Ethiopian borders with Sudan and South Sudan. This includes but is not limited to the Nuer Zone and the Jore Woreda of the Agnuak Zone in the Gambela region, and the Pawe, Guba, Dangur, Dibati, and Bulen woredas, and the Metekel zone in the Benishangul Gumuz Region. U.S. government personnel are not permitted to travel to the border areas of Sudan and South Sudan, with limited exceptions to support humanitarian capacity efforts.

Border Areas with Kenya – Do Not Travel

Terrorists, particularly Al-Shabaab, maintain a presence in this area, and ethnically motivated violence has been reported. This includes but is not limited to the Borena zone and surrounding areas. U.S. government personnel are not permitted to travel to the border areas with Kenya, with limited exceptions to support humanitarian capacity efforts.

Visit our website for advice if you decide to  Travel to High-Risk Areas .

Travel Advisory Levels

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Home / Destinations / Ethiopia / Lalibela

At the end of the 12th and beginning of the 13th centuries, King Lalibela of the Zaghwe dynasty built a series of rock hewn churches – the New Jerusalem as he called it – which are now rightly acknowledged to be one of the wonders of the world. There are 11 churches in the town named after him, with others in the surrounding countryside. 10 of these are still in use today.

Set on the side of a large barren hill, the town of Lalibela is as close to a scene from the bible as it gets. In amongst the donkeys and ancient housing, lie three great clusters of rock churches. Two enormous rocks house a massive 5 separate churches each, hewn from the rock itself, and joined by a warren of underground passages.

The surrounding area contains up to 1000 churches – all in varying states of preservation, each offering something different, and some requiring a higher level of fitness in order to access.

Good examples include Asheten Mariam – which lies high on the hill above Lalibela – and Cristos, which lies some 42 kilometers down a very rough and washed out road. Well worth the journey, Cristos is set in a fantastically peaceful part of the countryside.

As a prominent indicator of their vital historic value, the churches were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1978.

See below for accommodation in this area.

To find out more about Travel To Lalibela and to arrange your tailor-made trip, get in touch with us today.

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Hiking & Trekking Tours & Trips in Ethiopia

Go hiking and trekking through one of Africa 's stunning mountain ranges by venturing to the Simien Mountains of Ethiopia . Along the way discover the pilgrimage sites and rock churches of Lalibela

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The tour was organised very well and Armaye kept me informed on anything I needed to know from when I booked it until the tour started. The Bale mountains are stunning, it’s a very wild place and very challenging which made for a fantastic adventure, I highly recommend Armaye for any tours in Ethiopia, he also put me on to a guide in Harar who was brilliant

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The staff were extremely helpful and accommodating. I extended the trip to 2 weeks and the sights were magnificent. to experience the the Dallol and volcano with so few people so few people was especially amazing. I felt safe despite the presence of individual citizens with guns. If you do to the Danakil be prepared for hot vehicles and very warm drinking water. Bring your own tissue and a good supply of napkins as these may only be provided in tourist in tourist focused restaurants. Overal it

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It was a great tour, well organised everything. Great guide and cook. Everybody very friendly and client-focused. Ethiopia is really a beautiful country. Katarzyna

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A wonderful and extremely memorable trek. we enjoy Simien mountains and the itinerary is well designed. Made fun day bay! the scenery and the many local people that you meet make it all worthwhile. The scenery is amazing and surprisingly varied. Our guide Maru Alemayehu was knowledgeable and helpful. all camping gears were excellent. Simien and it's wildlife are amazing! We found Tankwa tours online using google sear and the team were helpful. I may say special thanks to Mr. Tigistu Tilahun, the one who always on for help!

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