Kodak Tourist

The Kodak Tourists were the last in a long line of American-made folding roll film cameras from Eastman Kodak . The original Tourist series was introduced in 1948, and included a range of quality levels at different price points. In 1949 a high-end version with a 4-element Anastar lens and Synchro-Rapid 800 shutter was released. The original Tourist series was replaced by the Tourist II series, which was introduced in May of 1951 and features a redesigned top cover and a new viewfinder. The redesigned top cover was expanded and appears to have been designed for a possible integrated rangefinder addition, though this was never developed. The Tourist II line dropped the f/8.8 model and added another higher end model with a Synchro 400 shutter (see "Lenses and Shutters" below). The remaining specs of the two cameras are essentially identical. Production was discontinued in July of 1958.

  • 2 Lenses and Shutters
  • 4.1 Original documents

In standard form, all Tourists use 620 film , making eight 2¼×3¼ inch (6×9 cm) exposures. The Tourist's most unusual feature is its back; through the use of cleverly engineered latches, it can be opened on the left side, right side, or removed completely.

Removing the back allows the use of the optional multi-format Kodak Tourist Adapter Kit , which consists of:

  • a replacement camera back with red windows for three additional formats
  • film frame masks for "Square" (2¼×2¼ inch / 6×6 cm on 620 film), "Half 620" (2¼×1⅝ inch / 6×4.5 cm on 620 film), and "828" (28×40mm on 828 film ) masks
  • 828 roll film supply and take up spool adapters
  • clip-on viewfinder masks for each of the three additional formats.
  • zippered carrying case and instruction manual
  • an empty 828 reel for the first use

The Kodak Tourist Adapter Kit, which originally sold for $14.50, is compatible with all Tourist and Tourist II models with f/6.3 or f/4.5 lenses.

The Kodak Tourist is unique in being one of few cameras designed by the manufacturer to accept such significantly different film sizes as 620 and 828. Because the lens is not interchangeable, and with fixed lens focal lengths around 100mm, the camera becomes essentially a mild telephoto when used with 828 film. In this configuration it is suitable primarily for portraiture, though could also be used for other telephoto uses such as wildlife photography provided the subject did not require rapid refocussing of the lens.

The Tourists are well made and feature a die cast aluminum alloy body, covered in black "Kodadur", a synthetic leather of remarkable durability. Top plates are molded gray plastic that Kodak called "Tenite", which house eye-level telescopic viewfinders on all models. All models also feature a tripod socket and lens door-mounted shutter release. Frame advancement and shutter cocking are not coupled and are completely manual on all models. All Tourists feature flash synchronization via the ASA bayonet socket. The Anaston and Anastar lens models feature front-element focusing and top mounted accessory shoes sized to accept the Kodak Service Range Finder. The fixed-focus Kodet lens models lack these features and had smaller viewfinders. All models take a flash gun mounted on a special bracket that attaches to the tripod socket. All Tourists had sockets for cable release on the shutter body; on certain models this socket is accessed by first removing a cover screw.

The camera back on the Kodet f/12.5 and Anaston f/8.8 models is plain, featuring only a small window for the film frame counter with a traditional external rotating cover. The camera backs on Anaston and Anastar f/6.3 and f/4.5 models include a large, adjustable rectangular exposure calculator, which is specific to the lens and shutter mounted to the camera (i.e., the exposure calculator on a given camera includes only those shutter speeds and f-stops available on that model). The exposure calculator is biased towards over-exposure—it approximates a “sunny 8” rule , and may thus lead to photos that are moderately to severely overexposed, depending on the film's exposure latitude. The backs on f/6.3 and f/4.5 cameras also include a lever that actuates an internal cover for the frame counter window. The Kodak Tourist Adapter Kit back includes only a small circular film type reminder dial, with no exposure calculator, in order to make room for the multiple film format frame counter windows. Three frame counter windows are hidden behind a large disk that is rotated into position for all four different formats—the 828 and 6×6 formats use the same window—and includes an external rotating cover for the windows.

A variety of lens/shutter combinations were available on the Tourists, representing a very wide range of prices. At the low end, the Kodet version of the camera sold for as little as $24.50 and is little more than a folding equivalent of a box camera; at the upper end, the camera sold for as much as $95 (Anastar/Synchro-Rapid combination), and the f/6.3 and f/4.5 versions are capable of producing professional-level results.

The Tourists show a curious similarity to two European Kodak models introduced somewhat later. The British Kodak Sterling II and Juniors (Tourist) and the French Kodak Modèle B 11 (Tourist II) utilize strikingly similar folding struts and top plate/viewfinder assemblies, though the folding bed on these cameras are hinged on the left whereas the Tourist follows the American convention and is hinged on the right.

Lenses and Shutters

Single element meniscus lens (fixed focus):

  • Kodet 86mm f/12.5 lens in Flash Kodon shutter app. 1/50 sec plus bulb and time

Three element Cooke triplet type lenses (front element focus):

  • Kodak Anaston 100mm f/8.8 in Flash Diomatic shutter 1/25 – 1/100 sec plus bulb and time (not available on Tourist II)
  • Kodak Anaston 105mm f/6.3 in Flash Diomatic shutter 1/25 – 1/100 sec plus bulb and time
  • Kodak Anaston 105mm f/6.3 in Flash 200 shutter 1/25 – 1/200 sec plus bulb
  • Kodak Anaston 105mm f/4.5 in Flash Kodamatic shutter 1/10 - 1/200 sec plus bulb and time
  • Kodak Anaston 105mm f/4.5 in Synchro 400 shutter 1/5 - 1/400 sec plus bulb (Tourist II only)

Four element Tessar type lens (front element focus):

  • Kodak Anastar 101mm f/4.5 in Synchro-Rapid 800 shutter 1 – 1/800 sec plus bulb
  • PDF Manual - Tourist with Anastar lens on Mike Butkus' site
  • PDF Manual - Tourist II with Kodet lens on Mike Butkus' site
  • History of Kodak Cameras at Kodak's website (archived)
  • Tourist , Tourist , Tourist II on www.collection-appareils.fr by Sylvain Halgand (in French)
  • Kodak Tourist review at CameraShiz!

Bibliography

Original documents.

  • Brian Coe, Kodak Cameras - The First Hundred Years , Hove Foto Books, 1988
  • Original Kodak user manuals for the Tourist and Tourist II
  • 1949 Kodak "Camera Line-Up" sales brochure
  • Flickr image
  • 6x9 viewfinder folding
  • Image by Jack Hufnagel
  • Image by Tarn McDaddo

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Kodak Eastman :  Tourist II

1951-1958. 620 film camera.

Camera manual

Kodak Eastman: Tourist II camera

by Williamlee111 » Sun Jan 10, 2016 10:40 pm

by bill339 » Sun Mar 22, 2020 1:18 pm

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Kodak Tourist (1948)

Film Type: 620 Roll Film (eight 6cm x 9cm exposures per roll, varies with accessory kit) Lens: 105mm f/4.5 Kodak Anaston coated 4-elements Focus: 3.5 feet to Infinity Viewfinder: Scale Focus Optical Shutter: Flash Kodamatic Leaf Speeds: T, B, 1/10 – 1/200 seconds Exposure Meter: None Battery:  None Flash Mount: Coldshoe and M and X Flash Sync, if hotshoe, flash sync speed Weight: 810 grams (w/ Anaston), 834 grams (w/ Anastar) Manual: http://www.cameramanuals.org/kodak_pdf/kodak_tourist.pdf

The Eastman Kodak Corporation has a long history of making folding cameras.  If I had a nickel for every estate sale I’ve been to with at least one folding Kodak, I’d have…a lot of nickels.  Although there are some exceptions , many of these early 20th century Kodak folders were quite basic.  Many had meniscus or doublet lenses with basic single speed shutters.

While many collectors often thumb their noses at these early folders, it’s important to remember that Kodak always has been a “film first” company.  From the very first 1888 Kodak to the first Brownies, VP Kodaks, and even the Retina, Kodak produced cameras to generate more potential customers for their film.

Kodak’s reputation as a maker of quality cameras was often quite low as you really don’t need a state of the art precision instrument to make a photograph.  The thing is, Kodak would on occasion release a couple really terrific models alongside their run of the mill models.  Such is the case of the Kodak Tourist.

First released in 1948, the Kodak Tourist was a medium format folding camera that shot 6cm x 9cm images on their 620 format of roll film.  Kodak’s 620 film uses the exact same film stock as regular 120 film, except on thinner spools.  This fact alone often turns off many collectors as most cameras designed for 620 film cannot use regular 120 without some kind of modification or respooling.

I’ve never had much of an issue with this, as I find respooling 120 onto a 620 spool to be quite easy and something I can do in less than 2 minutes in a film changing bag.  Some people like to try to modify plastic 120 spools by either sanding them down or using a nail clipper to make them smaller.  Some models like the Kodak Medalist and Chevron have such tight film compartments, even filing down a plastic 120 spool won’t work as these cameras are extremely intolerant of anything but a genuine metal 620 spool.  While it’s possible to have some success doing this on other 620 cameras, the risk of a piece of plastic falling off inside the camera damaging it, or even damaging the film is too great.  I much prefer to respool the film.  If you’d like to try this yourself, the Film Photography Project made a really great video showing the same method I use.

The Tourist occupied the lower to middle end of the market below their Kodak Monitor series and was a replacement for the Vigilant Junior camera which was produced between 1940 and 1948.  They were generally well made cameras with a die cast aluminum body and covered in Kodak’s own synthetic leather called Kodalur.

The release of the Tourist coincided with an dramatic increase in popularity of Kodachrome slide film.  Originally released in both 35mm and 828 formats in 1936, Kodachrome’s popularity surged in the years after the war as a new generation of Americans were settling down, starting families, and wanting to capture precious moments in color.  As a result, Kodak tried to push Kodachrome on as many people as possible, even those who owned medium format cameras, so they created a Tourist 828 adapter kit, which added a 28mm x 40mm mask in the film compartment and replaced the Tourist’s rear door with an 828 specific one.  The 828 kit is compatible with all Tourist models with any of the f/6.3 or f/4.5 lenses, but not the f/8.8 or f/12.5 models.

kodak tourist 2 camera film

In order to replace the door on the Tourist, there are hinge releases on both sides of the camera, which has the added benefit of allowing any door connected to the Tourist to open from the left or the right.  This is very convenient as it simplifies film loading by giving the photographer a choice of which side they want to start on.

If you weren’t a fan of 828 film but still wanted something smaller than a 6×9 exposure, there were optional masks for 6×6 and 6×4.5 that could be inserted in the film compartment as well.

kodak tourist 2 camera film

The Tourist had a wide range of lens and shutter combinations from the single element Kodet 86mm f/12.5 with single speed Flash Kodon shutter to the Tessar based Anastar 101mm f/4.5 with Synchro-Rapid 800 shutter, with prices ranging from $24.50 to $95 depending on model.  These prices compare to $260 and $1000 today.

The Synchro-Rapid 800 shutter was based on the same shutter Kodak used in their Kodak Chevron camera.  With it’s 1/800 top shutter speed, it was the fastest medium format leaf shutter at the time of it’s release.

How Kodak was able to accomplish such a fast shutter speed was by using a unique design with two sets of shutter blades.  Unlike most leaf shutters in which a primary set of blades open all the way and change directions to close for each exposure, the Synchro-Rapid 800’s shutter only rotates in one direction for each exposure, cutting the length of time that it needs to work in half.

This has a side effect of requiring the shutter blades to move in the opposite direction when cocking the shutter, which would expose the film as the shutter has to open again, but backwards.  To prevent light from passing through to the film, a second set of shutter blades stays closed while cocking the shutter, so as not to expose the film.  This second set of shutter blades is not used for exposure, and merely has to get out of the way during normal exposure, but stay closed when cocking the shutter.

While this proved to be an effective way to achieve such fast shutter speeds, the additional complexity caused the shutter to develop reliability problems.  Many cameras like the Tourist and Chevron that feature this shutter exhibit problems today.

In 1951, an updated model called the Tourist II would make its debut with a revised viewfinder that Kodak referred to as the Scopesight viewfinder in which there was a projected frame line in the viewfinder to help with composition.  Earlier versions of the Tourist II had the name plate on the very top of the top plate, and later versions had it facing forward in attractive red lettering.

There’s no telling how many Tourists were sold, but the whole series was produced for 10 years and as I type this, there were 199 auctions for “Kodak Tourist Camera” currently for sale on eBay which suggest that quite a few were sold.

Today, there doesn’t seem to be much of a collector’s market for the Tourist, and frankly, I can see why.  Even though the f/4.5 models are quite capable cameras, the overwhelming majority of the ones out there are the lower end f/12.5 and f/8.8 models.  Kodak’s reputation in the folding camera segment doesn’t help either.  Sure, the company had quality medium format cameras like the Medalist and Chevron, but very few people in the market for a mid century medium format camera would consider the Tourist.  But that’s where this camera’s biggest strength is.  These things often sell for very little, which is probably why I’ve come across so many of them.  The Kodak Tourist is not only a feature rich camera, but also capable of wonderful results.

My Thoughts

In this hobby, sometimes cameras come, sometimes cameras go.  In the case of the Kodak Tourist, it would take the 4th Tourist to come across my desk before I found one that I was willing and able to shoot a roll of film through.

The first, was one of the lower end models that came to me in early 2015 when I first started collecting and simply had no interest in as I hadn’t yet ventured into the world of mid century Kodak 620 folders.

The second was an Anaston f/4.5 equipped one that I had an interest in shooting, but it had some major issues.  One of the folding struts was somehow missing, and the shutter was completely seized.  I thought I could still shoot it with the missing strut if I could at least get the shutter working, but Kodak in their infinite wisdom did not use a locking ring like pretty much every other maker of folding cameras, instead the shutter was riveted to the lens plate, and my attempt at getting it out, made it worse.

The third, was the top of the line Anastar version with the Synchro Rapid 800 shutter, but it too had a malfunctioning shutter.

Finally, the fourth, which is the one being reviewed here with the Anaston f/4.5 lens and Flash Kodamatic shutter.  Although not the top of the line lens and shutter combination, it was still a highly regarded performer that I had high hopes for.

Upon holding each of the final three Tourists, it is clearly evident that this is not just some cheap Kodak folder.  The Bakelite (or whatever it is) top plate I think is what cheapens the look of the camera, but despite any preconceived notions I had, the Tourist felt like a pretty decent camera in my hands.

Folded up, the camera is nicely detailed with chrome trim, and a durable synthetic body covering that doesn’t show scratches, cracks, or Zeiss bumps like other cameras have.  Of the four Tourists I came across, none showed any signs of body covering peeling or missing, suggesting that the Kodalur covering was up to the task.  The camera weighs 810 grams (~1.8 lbs) with the Anaston lens, which is heavier than both the Voigtländer Rollfilm at 544 grams and Kodak No.1 Autographic Special at 771 grams.

The top plate features the film advance knob, accessory shoe, two strap lugs, and a small knob that at first appears to do nothing, but is actually a release for the spool centering pin for loading in a new roll of film into the camera.  I’ll get to this later.

Another notable characteristic of the top panel is it’s color.  The plastic panel has some chameleon characteristics as it seems to change color depending on the lighting.  In each of these beauty pics, it’s color seems to wander between a teal green, turquoise blue, and gray.  I had half a mind to color correct the various photos in this article to make them all consistent, but decided to leave them as is, so you can appreciate it’s multi-pigment-ness!

The bottom of the camera lacks the plastic from the top and is just a flat piece of metal covered in Kodalur and has a centrally located 1/4″ tripod socket.

The standard back that comes with all f/6.3 and f/4.5 Tourists has a sliding exposure calculator, similar to the one that Kodak used on other cameras of the era like the Signet 35 .  Below the exposure calculator is the red window for viewing the exposure numbers on the back of the film paper.  To the left of the red window is a spring tensioned lever that opens and closes a metal door protecting the red window from excess light.  You need to press down and hold the lever while advancing the film in order to see the numbers.

To use the exposure calculator, there are two sliders, one for the type of film you have in the camera, and the other for changing the lighting conditions.  This being a Kodak camera designed in the late 1940s, they only give you film options for the 4 types of Kodak films that were available in 620 at the time.

I would set the calculator like I have in the image to the right if I were shooting Kodak Plus-X of an average subject in bright sunlight.  It recommends shutter speed and f/stop combinations of 1/200 @ f/5.6, 1/100 @ f/8, 1/50 @ f/11, and 1/25 @ f/16, all of which would give proper exposure.

Removing the film door requires sliding a door lock on both sides of the camera.  Remember, the Tourist allows you to swing open the door to the left or right, or remove it altogether.  Whichever you choose, you need to unlock the hinge.  In the image to the left, you can also see the large shutter release button on the front door of the camera.

The image to the right shows the camera’s right hinge separated from the body.  When you are ready to close the door, you must make sure the two sliding pins are in their correct position to hold the door securely shut.  The Tourist predates the use of foam light seals, so there was no degraded seals that I had to replace.

With the film back off the camera, loading the camera is mostly easy.  I say “mostly” because due to the nature of Kodak’s 620 film, the spools are very narrow.  Kodak intentionally made tight film compartments in their mid-century 620 cameras to discourage people from using standard 120 film with it’s large spools in their cameras.

Film travels from right to left, and in order to remove an old spool on the right side and insert a new spool, you must first release the spool centering pin, which is connected to the smaller knob on the top plate of the camera which I mentioned earlier.  To do this, you must first press down on the small knob on top of the camera and rotate it clockwise a quarter turn.  Once you’ve done this, the pin will pop up, allowing you to easily remove and install a new spool.  Without doing this, removing the old spool will be impossible, and any attempt to force it out will likely damage the camera.

For the take up spool, the winding knob must also be pulled up to give room to insert a spool on this side, but it doesn’t require any unusual steps.  Once you have a new roll of film loaded, make sure to reset the film centering spool and then close the door, making sure that the latches on both side of the camera are secure.

All versions of the Kodak Tourist use rim set leaf shutters with front unit focusing rings which work exactly like every other shutter of this style.  Shutter speed is changed with a dial around the perimeter of the shutter, and f/stops are selected by moving a small lever nearest the door.  The Anaston equipped models have shutter speeds from 1/10 to 1/200, plus B and T, and a self timer.  The Anastar versions have shutter speeds from 1 to 1/800, plus B, no self timer, but an adjustable M/F/X flash synchronizer.

The Tourist does not have a self cocking shutter, so you must do this by moving the cocking lever above the shutter speed scale as far as it will go.  It also lacks double image prevention, so do not cock the shutter until after you’ve advanced the film and are ready to make your exposure.

Finally, the viewfinder, although basic and offering no information about the status of the camera, is large and bright making composition of the large 6×9 frame a snap.  With the 6×6 and 6×4.5 baffle kit would have included a mask that clips on over the front viewfinder window to approximate the smaller frame, but I did not have access to this kit.

Like other mid century Kodak cameras, Kodak’s reputation as a “film first” company didn’t do their mid-tier cameras like the Tourist any favors.  While the series was a good seller, their value in today’s collector’s market is quite low, which is a shame because they can be quite nice cameras.  But what kinds of results do they give?

For the first roll through the Tourist, I hand rolled a fresh roll of Kodak Portra 160 onto a 620 spool in a film changing bag and went shooting.  Portra is one of my all time favorite films and looks awesome in medium format, so I was eager to see what the Kodak Anaston was capable of.

Tourist-1

Mission accomplished…mostly.  The Kodak Tourist delivered exactly how I had hoped.  Despite it’s lackluster reputation today, I really believed this camera would deliver some wondrously sharp and contrasty images and it did.

On a couple of images, I noticed a bit of focus error that could very well be due to me miscalculating distance, but in the one of the little girl on the sidewalk, it almost looks like the blur is only in the middle of the images, and not the edges, which could suggest a film flatness issue.

You have to be careful with some large folding cameras like the Tourist when you extend and collapse the bellows with film in them.  The movement of the bellows creates a vacuum in the film compartment causing the film to move in and out of the focal plane.  The best way to avoid this with a camera like this is to just leave it open for the whole roll, but that’s not always feasible.  So in the cases where you have to open and close the camera with film loaded, do it slowly, and even after erecting the camera, give the film advance knob a small twist to help eliminate any slack that may have developed in the film.

That issue aside, the Tourist proved itself to be a worthy medium format camera in the same league as higher spec cameras like the Kodak Monitor series, or various German made folders by Zeiss, Voigtländer, and many other companies.  I thought it’s heft was reassuring of it’s quality, and the large and bright viewfinder was easy to use.  Of course, you just need to make sure to get the “good” lenses.  I was never able to shoot the top spec Anastar/Synchro 800 equipped model, but this “step down” Anaston/Flash Kodamatic is no slouch either.

So the next time you are trawling eBay or browsing a thrift shop and see a Kodak Tourist sitting there on the shelf, don’t pass it up.  Check which lens it has and don’t immediately assume it’s a piece of garbage.  It just might surprise you!

Related Posts You Might Enjoy

http://www.mikeeckman.com/2016/02/kodak-monitor-six-20-1940/

AGFA Billy-Clack No. 74 (1934)

External Links

http://camera-wiki.org/wiki/Kodak_Tourist

https://www.bnphoto.org/bnphoto/KodakTourist.htm

http://www.jenniferstamps.com/journal/2019/camera-review-kodak-tourist

https://blog.jimgrey.net/2009/01/05/kodak-tourist/

https://www.lomography.com/magazine/118083-kodak-tourist-my-oldest-friend

http://www.jollinger.com/photo/cam-coll/cameras/Kodak_Tourist.html

https://schneidan.com/2012/06/03/kodak-tourist-ii-folding-6×9-putting-a-roll-through/

https://camerashiz.wordpress.com/kodak-tourist/

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11 Comments

I must say that the camera was able yield some very nice images. The brick building or court house is full of detail. The hard-coated Luminized lens seems to handle your choice of color film extremely well.

Considering the small quantities / limited availability of mid-priced cameras in the immediate post war period – I’d say that the Tourist and Tourist II definitely filled a need. German camera makers hadn’t yet been able ramp up their offerings.

Here’s a YouTube photographer/machinist who eschews the “re-roll 120 onto a 620 spool” approach. He did preferred to make his Kodak Tourist take 120 roll film, period. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ue0jr5E0Axo

Good info, although….this guy…..is….very hard…..to listen…..to. 🙂 Another 620 camera that is commonly modified is the Medalist. There used to be some shops that specialized in adapting it to 120. For how infrequently I shoot 620 these days, it only takes me 2 minutes in a film changing bag to do one roll, so I don’t mind doing it that way.

Thanks for the informative article! Being from Rochester, New York, I am a casual collector of Kodak products (it reminds me of home). I just found a Kodak Tourist at the flea market: it’s in good shape, but not exactly like yours. It has no exposure calculator on the back, just a small round cover for the red window. On the front it says “Kodet Lens” and “Flash Kodon Shutter”. Can you tell me any more about my camera? I’d like to use it.

One more question; the Tourist I bought has a Kodak 6A close-up attachment in place over the shutter, and I can’t remove it. How is it done? Is the regular lens beneath it or do I need to find a lens for this camera? It only cost me $5.00, so if it has to be a decorative item I can live with that.

Hi Carl, answering both of your questions. The Kodet lens was the base option for the Kodak Tourist. I believe it is a two-element lens that while not going to be incredibly sharp, offers a huge depth of field making focusing the camera extremely easy. You’ll likely get images with good center sharpness, showing some vignetting and significant softness in the corners. This would work well for potraits or still lifes, as people tend to like soft edges on shots like that.

As I cover in the article, the camera uses 620 film, which means you’ll either have to buy some 620 online, or hand spool regular 120 film into 620 spools. It’s very easy to do and something you can do in a film changing bag, or just in a room with the lights off in your house.

Finally, the 6A close-up attachment is pressed on. You just need to pull it straight off. It’s not held on by screw threads. Having been there for decades, it’s likely very stiff, so you might need to pull pretty hard to get it off.

Good luck, and even if you never get a chance to shoot this camera, there are countless other options for mid 20th Century Kodaks to choose from!

Hello! I recently acquired a Kodak Tourist 2 folder. I will be re-spooling 120 onto 620 spools and had a question about advancing the film. Will the frame number in the red window correspond correctly to the 2×3 format in this camera? What numbers do I advance the film to make sure I don’t over-lap my photo’s? I’ve been shooting an Argus 75 and get the square negatives, and assume the frame numbers are meant for that size? I’m a long time 35mm film photographer, but just beginning my foray into the cool vintage stuff. I’ve searched all day trying to find an answer to this question, but can’t seem to find an answer to what seems to be a very vital question. I enjoyed reading your above article about this camera! Thanks, Mario

The exposure numbers on your respooled 120 will match perfectly as if you had real 620 film in there. No need to worry, it will work perfectly!

Thanks Mike! I just shot a roll while on a bike ride. I noticed it was really easy to accidentally trip the shutter while handling camera. Will this mean I got double exposures, if I had already advanced the film and I took another shot? I’ve recently started to develop my own b&w film. What fun! Will see how this roll turns out. Might of got a couple of good ones?‍♂️

Mario, the Tourist requires that you manually cock the shutter before you can fire the shutter. Once this is done however, then yes it can be easily tripped. For instances where you are carrying the camera around, like on a bike ride, I would not cock the shutter ahead of time, only waiting until right before you are ready to make an exposure.

I am repairing one now that has the good Anaston 4.5 lens. Most things work but the bellows is full of pinholes. I am hoping to use it as a regular shooter.

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Kodak Tourist

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The Kodak Tourists were the last in a long line of American made folding roll film cameras from Eastman Kodak . The Tourist II , introduced in May of 1951, features a redesigned top cover and a new viewfinder, which contains frame lines for the optional 828 roll film adapter. Production was discontinued in July of 1958.

The Tourists use 620 films making 8 2¼×3¼ exposures. The use of 828 roll film for 8 28×40mm exposures was an option. The Tourist's most unusual feature is its back; through the use of cleverly engineered latches, it can be opened on the left side, right side, or removed completely.

Removing the back allows the use of the multi-format Kodak Tourist Adapter Kit, which consists of: a camera back with red windows for 4 different formats; 2¼×2¼ inch, 2¼×1⅝ inch, and 28×40mm masks; 828 roll film supply and take up spool adapters; and viewfinder masks for each of the three additional formats.

The Tourists are well made and feature a die cast aluminum body, covered in black Kodadur, a synthetic leather of remarkable durability. All models feature a tripod socket, a lens door mounted shutter release, and eye-level viewfinders. All Tourists feature flash synchronization . The Anaston and Anastar lens models feature cable release sockets on the shutter, front-element focusing, and top-mounted accessory shoes; the fixed-focus Kodet lens models lack these features and had smaller viewfinders. Frame spacing and shutter cocking are completely manual.

The camera back on the Anaston and Anastar lens models features a rectangular exposure calculator that is biased towards over-exposure – it pretty much uses a “sunny 8” rule . The exposure calculator on the Kodak Tourist Adapter Kit back is circular in format (and accommodates more film types).

A variety of lens/shutter combinations were available on the Tourists; at the low end, the camera is little more than a folding equivalent of a box camera; at the upper end, the camera is capable of producing professional level results.

The Tourists show a curious similarity to two European Kodak models introduced somewhat later. The British Kodak Sterling II and Juniors (Tourist) and the French Kodak Modèle B 11 (Tourist II) utilize strikingly similar folding struts and top plate/viewfinder assemblies, though the folding bed on these cameras are hinged on the left whereas the Tourist follows the American convention and is hinged on the right.

According to Kodak the Tourist was introduced at a price of $95 USD [1] (app. $870 USD in 2007). At this price, the model was probably the top-of-the-line Anastar version.

  • 1 Lenses and Shutters
  • 2 References
  • 4.1 Original documents

Lenses and Shutters [ ]

Single element meniscus lens:

  • Kodet 86mm f/12.5 lens in Flash Kodon shutter app. 1/50 sec plus bulb and time

Three element Cooke triplet type lenses:

  • Kodak Anaston 100mm or 101mm f/8,8 in Flash Diomatic shutter 1/25 – 1/100 sec plus bulb and time (not available on Tourist II)
  • Kodak Anaston 100mm or 105mm f/6.3 in Flash Diomatic shutter 1/25 – 1/150 sec plus bulb and time
  • Kodak Anaston 105mm f/6.3 in Flash Diomatic shutter 1/25 – 1/100 sec plus bulb and time
  • Kodak Anaston 105mm f/6.3 in Flash 200 shutter 1/25 – 1/200 sec plus bulb

Four element Tessar type lenses:

  • Kodak Anaston 105mm f/4.5 in Flash Kodamatic shutter 1/10 – 1/200 sec plus bulb and time
  • Kodak Anastar 101mm f/4.5 in Synchro-Rapid shutter 1 – 1/800 sec plus bulb

References [ ]

  • ↑ History of Kodak Cameras at www.kodak.com
  • PDF Manual - Tourist with Anastar lens on Mike Butkus' site
  • PDF Manual - Tourist II with Kodet lens on Mike Butkus' site
  • History of Kodak Cameras at Kodak's website
  • Kodak patents , over 1,200 patents related to Kodak cameras.
  • Kodak Tourist , Kodak Tourist , Kodak Tourist and Kodak Tourist II on www.collection-appareils.fr by Sylvain Halgand

Bibliography [ ]

Original documents [ ].

  • Brian Coe, Kodak Cameras - The First Hundred Years , Hove Foto Books, 1988
  • Original Kodak user manuals for the Tourist and Tourist II
  • 1 Radioactive lenses
  • 2 Helios-44
  • 3 Minolta XG series

kodak tourist 2 camera film

5-ish Frames with a Kodak Tourist II

15 February, 2024

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Like many photographers who have been shooting for years I have a cabinet of old cameras. Some were given to me as gifts and quite a few are cameras I used in my work over the years. Lately I’ve been pulling one or two out and seeing what still works and what doesn’t. Some are very old like the 1917 Voigtlander. Others are from the 70’s and 80’s, cameras from my professional lifetime like my original Olympus OM-1 or the Nikon F3, top center in the group below.

kodak tourist 2 camera film

Since this ‘testing of gear’ requires it I’ve been  shooting film for the first time in a long time and becoming friends with some very talented local film shooters. One in particular Nathan Watson has for months invited me to one of his monthly photo walks. I’ve never done a photo walk. As a working pro I spend enough time on client work that when I’m not working I am dedicated to my home and family. But Nathan’s invitations intrigued me so I recently joined him and others on a… well not exactly a walk, but a gathering. An old industrial warehouse near downtown is now a place where new businesses incubate and creatives gather including a local pro photographer.  The ‘walk’ was really a chance to photograph in her studio, a  wide open space with a very old industrial feel.

I decided to take two cameras to test. One was my late 1950’s 6X6  Mamiya C3 with a 180mm 4.5 and the other was a Kodak Tourist II, the last folding camera Kodak made. The Tourist, as its name would imply is a very simple camera. The Mamiya pretty much the opposite. I bought a roll of 100 ISO 620 film for the Kodak and put a roll of Delta 400 in the Mamiya. While checking out the cameras before going I noticed the tiny plastic viewfinder on the Tourist was dirty to the point of worthless. Thanks to YouTube I found a quick tutorial on how to disassemble and clean it. Worked like a charm.

At the walk there were a few racks of costumes and clothes and  handful of models. There were some 25 people there with film cameras of every imaginable year and size, make and model. I started out using the beautiful light coming in those high windows and shooting some of the models with the Mamiya. The studio photographer had purposely left them grimy and the light was amazing. The 180 on that camera was perfect for tight faces. By the time I was down to my last frame a good friend of mine, another long time professional arrived. I asked him to pose for the last frame. Because of his knowledge and awareness he ask as I tripped the shutter “did you know the lens isn’t opening”? I looked and sure enough that roll of faces would be blank. I wasn’t crushed but it sure was a let down. Somehow I had missed that the shutter didn’t open though it sure sounded right.

I switched to the Tourist II and began shooting some random things. It was much harder to be precise with and with a lens wider than the 180 it took in a lot more background. It was hard at first to know if I was winding it correctly to the next frame and to remember to wind on after I shot a frame. It worked pretty well overall but I ended up with a few blank frames and one double exposure. And it turned out the accidental double exposure ended up being a favorite.

kodak tourist 2 camera film

I look forward to joining the group on a walk soon and hope to be better prepared next time.

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Julian Tanase on 5-ish Frames with a Kodak Tourist II

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Art Meripol replied:

Thanks Julian, It was a lot of fun playing with it and I do love 120 and especially that 6X9 format. As for limitations, most of them are my own limitations. But I will get there.

kodak tourist 2 camera film

Ken on 5-ish Frames with a Kodak Tourist II

Thanks Ken. I've always liked a low ASA or ISO. But that was pushing it! pun not intended. I do want to take that camera outside and run it through its paces.

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Kodak Tourist II: The end of an era?

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Daniel J. Schneider

Photographs, blog and reviews by a film photographer

Putting a Roll Through

Kodak tourist ii folding 6×9: putting a roll through.

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This one isn’t really a toy camera like most of the others I’ve looked at so far. This is a lower-end model with a Kodet Lens, though the Tourist was, apparently, one of Kodak’s higher-end cameras overall in the 1950s.

I tested it on one of my routine trips to find my car (parked somewhere in Capitol Hill, typically 5-7 blocks from my apartment building) on a day when the sun was shining, but thin, high clouds muted the light a little. Shadows were clear, but not crisp-edged.

Kodak Tourist II test shot

Learning from my experiences with other pre-1960 cameras (when ASA numbers underwent an adjustment that more accurately reflected most films’ speeds and when standard ‘daylight’ film was usually closer to ISO 12 or ISO 25 than the modern ISO 100 standard for daylight), I looked up the shutter speed online before applying sunny-16 rules. This stuck me shooting at f/32 because the Flash Kodon shutter on the Tourist II is fixed at 1/50th sec .

That’s okay, at least the frames will be sharp.

And boy were they, for an inexpensive camera with what I’m guessing is a plastic lens.

In the end, with the 1/50th shutter speed, the ISO 100 film was still a little too sensitive and the negatives were a touch overexposed.

Kodak Tourist II test shot

I shot these on Ilford Delta 100 120 film (rerolled onto a 620 spool), which I developed in Kodak HC-110E (47:1 mixture) for 8:45 min at 69°F.

I used Photoshop to bring the blacks up a tiny bit and fix a few dust spots from the scanner, but the adjustments were very minor.

I wrote a much deeper look at the camera itself , as well.

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Kodak baby brownie special: putting a roll through, mar-crest toy camera: putting a roll through, developing: where to get film processed in denver.

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  • Classic Manual Film Cameras

Kodac Tourist II

By samn March 7, 2009 in Classic Manual Film Cameras

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<p>I just happened on a Kodak Tourist II with the Aneston f4.5 105mm, Flash Kodamatic Shutter. It is in what I would call E+ condition. I just couldn't pass it up at $18.00. What a beauty. I know little about classic cameras although I do shoot an old Mamaya C220 occasionally. Anyway I would like to try it of course. What I am wondering is, is there 620 size film available for it. I see B&H sells Kodac 620 roll film (Kodac TMY T-MAX 400 Professional, and some others). Will these rolls fit the Tourist II without modification?</p>

<p>Thanks, Sam</p>

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<p>Sam,</p>

<p>Check out this link. <a href=" http://www.zianet.com/connealy/vintagecameras/120in620/">http://www.zianet.com/connealy/vintagecameras/120in620/</a></p>

<p>I modified the 120 roll as per the instructions. I inserted the modified roll into my Kodak Vigilant 620. It worked like a charm. </p>

<p>I am so happy that I was able to find the link. Now, if I had scanner that scanned 6X9 negatives to show of my results that would even be better.</p>

<p>Mike</p>

<p>That link still works, but the site has long ago moved to a new server and the link should now be <a href=" http://mconnealy.com/vintagecameras/120in620/index.html">http://mconnealy.com/vintagecameras/120in620/index.html</a>.<br>

As it turns out, I think the Tourist may be one of those Kodak's that won't work with a trimmed 120 spool. A better bet is to re-roll the 120 film onto a 620 spool. I resisted doing that for a long time, but it turns out to be pretty painless really, and the film advance is nearly always a lot smoother. I've never had a Tourist to shoot, so it could be worthwhile to try a trimmed spool anyway. </p>

<p>If you want a highly reliable source of ready-to-use 620 film, I recommend the following. They offer all 120-size film types in their inventory, cut down to 620 size for a $1.50-per-roll surcharge:</p>

<p> http://www.bluemooncamera.com/index.php?fuseaction=newproducts.products&thisimg=1</p>

<p>Ernest</p>

<p>Mike and Michael, thanks for the answers. Am I understanding correctly? The 620 roll film you can purchase will not fit the camera? I would try to re-roll off of 120 but I would somewhere have to find another spool, the camera only has one.</p>

<p>Jack, what is a back adapter?</p>

<p>Sam</p>

<p>Mike,</p>

<p>I just read your post (after posting my own):</p>

<p> <em>As it turns out, I think the Tourist may be one of those Kodak's that won't work with a trimmed 120 spool.</em></p>

<p>When you refer to "<em>those Kodak's that won't work with a trimmed 120 spool," </em> I assume you mean a 120 spool whose diameter has been trimmed by the user with a large toenail clipper, or something equivalent? (The mismatch being due to the fact that the 120-size spool is manufactured slightly too long to fit in the camera's film chamber--in addition to being too wide, prior to trimming)?</p>

<p>There are several sources, eBay and elsewhere, for machine-trimmed 620 film (I've provided a link to the one I like best). So far as I know, they all provide film on manufacturer's original spools that have been appropriately trimmed for length as well as diameter.</p>

<p>I have two Kodak Tourists (and a Sterling and Modele 31, the UK and French equivalents), and the machine-trimmed film that I've bought fits all of them just fine.</p>

<p>Re-rolling 120 film onto 620 spools is certainly the least-cost alternative, but there are potential disadvantages to re-rolling (dust, time, inconvenience) that bear consideration.</p>

<p>Thanks for the link Ernest. I'll give them a try.<br>

Sam</p>

tom_cheshire

<p>You're welcome. </p>

<p>Given that you're doing this for the first time, I would offer another suggestion--but only applicable, if you intend to turn in your film for commercial processing. If you will be developing your own film, read no further.</p>

<p>Even if you use machine-trimmed 620-size film, you must have a vintage steel 620 spool on the take-up side of your camera. (The 620 camera's winding-knob will not properly engage the end of a 120 spool; it is too small for the 120 spool's larger slots.) You must ensure, therefore, that you do not lose the single 620 spool that you now have, according to your post above.</p>

<p>It's easy to get 620 film commercially processed--since, apart from the spools they come on, there's no difference whatever between 620 and 120 film, or their backing-papers. (Except for different labeling, this was true even when they were being manufactured and marketed side-by-side.)</p>

<p>However, you may find it<em> </em> very difficult to get a film lab to give your vintage 620 takeup spool the protective custody it requires, after you've turned in your exposed film for processing. <em>You don't want them to throw your 620 spool away!</em> If they discard it, you'll simply be out of luck, until you can obtain another vintage 620 spool to use on the take-up side of your camera.</p>

<p>Film lab personnel normally discard all used film spools as part of their workflow. It's their habit, and they may not remember to save yours, despite your clear request in the "special instructions" block of your turn-in sheet. If your unmarked, vintage black 620 spool should be tossed inadvertently into a darkroom trash box among dozens, or hundreds, more black 120 spools, yours will not be identifiable or retrievable without a careful, time-consuming examination of potentially all the spools in the lab's outgoing trash...and that's not likely to happen, even with a customer-friendly lab and a conscientious supervisor.</p>

<p>S0---to increase the odds of getting your 620 spool back from a commercial lab, you should mark it. Using a small brush and some fluorescent yellow or orange paint (or hot-pink nail polish), paint splashes of color on each end of the 620 spool, and on its long interior axle. None of this will affect the film in any way; the painted areas will all be well-covered when the spool is in the camera. But once you've marked it, if your 620 spool should be inadvertently tossed into a barrel with lots of others of almost exactly the same dimension, yours will stand out at a glance. This precaution won't guarantee the safe return of your takeup spool, but it will greatly improve the odds. (With a Sharpie pen, you can even write your initials, and "do not discard" or "return this spool" over the painted strips.)</p>

<p>The other--100% certain--way to avoid losing your vintage 620 takeup spool, is never to give it to a film lab. I.e.: you can re-roll your film <em>after</em> exposure, from the takeup spool back onto the trimmed-down supply spool (or any standard 120 spool), before turning it in for development. At this point, of course, the latent images have been formed on the film; so the possibility of dust particles getting onto the film while you are re-rolling, and causing spots on your images, is no longer a concern. But re-rolling, whether before or after exposure, imposes its own cost in time and convenience--a cost that may be of concern or no concern, depending on your circumstances.</p>

<p>If you find you enjoy using your Tourist camera, you may want to eventually acquire a half-dozen or so vintage 620 spools. If you mark the spools as described above (and ensure your lab knows to recgnize them, hang onto them, and return them to you)--you will discover that you can then buy and use 620 film without any more difficulty or inconvenience than 120 film. Once film availability and handling are no longer a concern, a whole vista of interesting "user" camera possibilities opens up, including excellent 620 cameras available at little cost compared to their 120 peers--e.g., the Kodak Medalist and Monitor, Super Kinax, etc.</p>

<p>Anyway, just a small suggestion based on my own experience (including the loss of my first, unmarked 620 spools by an otherwise very good film lab). Good luck.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thanks for the advice Ernest. I'll be sure to mark the spool. I'm excited about trying this camera. Finding it may have consequences that were unforseen. Like maybe I was bitten by the collecting bug! At any rate, much fun.<br>

<p>Sam,<br>

The back adapter, is a back that replaces the one that came with the camera. The kit also comes with masks for the viewfinder and also inserts that are placed in the film plane inside the camera. It enables the user to not only shoot in the standard 6x9 format. But also, in the 6x6, 6x4.5 and use 828 film. I got mine on ebay. I have one Tourist setup for 6x9, and one setup for 645.</p>

<p><a href=" http://www.camerapedia.org/wiki/Kodak_Tourist">http://www.camerapedia.org/wiki/Kodak_Tourist</a></p>

<p>Sam, I have the same lens/shutter on a Tourist. The 120 spool is too long and won't fit either end. I re-spool 120 to 620 spools, take up on 620 spools and after exposure, re-spool back to 120 spools then send for processing. Fuji is $2.99 a roll at B&H and processing is less than $3 at Walmart. That's a whole lot of spooling but look at the low cost. Here is a link to re-spooling instructions. <a href=" http://www.inficad.com/~gstewart/respool.htm">http://www.inficad.com/~gstewart/respool.htm</a><br>

I've never had a hump at the tape that was bad enough to pull and re-tape the film. I re-spool several rolls in one session. I won't take a chance on the 620 spool not returning so I only send the 120 spool.<br>

I had light leaks so next time I'll tape the back with black electrical tape and eventually put new seal material in it. Shade the red window when advancing the film.</p>

<p>Maybe Jack or Ernest can help on this question, we both need to know since we have the same lens, Anaston f4.5 105mm, is infinity with pin against the stop peg or pin aligned with the infinity mark? There is at least 1/16" or more difference between these points. My shots at infinity were not as sharp as I expected and I had the pin against the stop peg.</p>

<p>Thanks Tim, B&H really thinks proudly of their 620 roll film. It's worth it to me to get a couple of spools though. It really looks simple to re-roll. I looked at the link you sent. If I get some fairly successful shots then I'll start re-spooling. I'm going to call the link that Ernest gave me in his earlier post, Monday, and see if their cut down spools will fit into the Tourist II. For the $1.50 they supposedly charge it would be worth buying from them and it's kind of a neat site.<br>

<p>Tim,</p>

<p>I have a couple of Tourists, but they both have a different lens (anastar). I would suggest that you verify the infinity setting on your camera yourself--it's easy. </p>

<p>Just mount your camera securely on a tripod, point it toward a far-off, easily distinguishable point, set the lens to infinity, and remove the camera back: then, using Scotch "magic" transparent tape (the kind that's not too sticky, that you can pull up easily without leaving residue), stretch strips of tape from end-to-end across the camera's film opening. (This puts the sticky side of the tape exactly where the film emulsion would be.) Now, with a loupe or strong magnifying glass, examine the image formed when the lens is set for "infinity"--and then rotate it a little short of, and then beyond, the infinity marking. Whatever rotation-point produces the sharpest image of an "infinitely distant" subject on your Scotch-tape "screen"--that's where your camera's distance dial should indicate "infinity". If it does not, you should be able (using a tiny jeweler's screwdriver) to adjust the cover of the rotating front cell (the part with the actual distance markings) so that the infinity indicator will be accurate.</p>

<p>If you happen to have a piece of ground glass of the necessary size (less than 2 1/4" wide, more than 3 1/4" long), then (obviously) you should use the ground glass, since it will provide a much clearer and brighter image. But with a good magnifier and good eyes, Scotch tape will do. (You may find you have to cover the open camera back, and your head, with a dark cloth/jacket/whatever, to get enough contrast on the Scotch tape while you are determining optimal focus.)</p>

<p>With regard to re-rolling vs. buying machine-trimmed 620, it sounds like you have a perfectly good approach to suit your needs. I'm not unfamiliar with the process; in fact, there are a couple of giant rolls of BW aerial film in my freezer, waiting to be be cut and rolled (eventually) onto old 122 spools. When I first got interested in old cameras, I too re-rolled 120 onto 620--because at the time, it was the only reasonably priced solution I knew of. </p>

<p>And for unmodified 120 film, B&H's prices are hard to beat. You noted: <em>"Fuji is $2.99 a roll at B&H."</em> Out of curiosity, I just did an online price comparison between B&H and the source I linked to above (Blue Moon Camera in Portland, OR). At B&H, Fuji Superia and Acros are $2.99 at B&H; at Blue Moon, they are $3.45 and $4.20, respectively.</p>

<p>But if you want ready-to-use, machine-trimmed 620 film, the price picture is reversed. B&H offers only six emulsions in size 620; whereas on request, Blue Moon will trim down any 120-size film they carry.</p>

<p>The six films offered by B&H are: <br>

T-MAX 100 ($11.00 at B&H, $6.40 at Blue Moon: i.e., $4.90 price of 120 roll, + $1.50 for trim to 620),<br>

Tri-X 400 ($11.00 at B&H, $6.39 at Blue Moon).<br>

Plus-X ($10.00 at B&H, $7.45 at Blue Moon),<br>

Velvia 100F ($12.00 at B&H, $7.19 at Blue Moon),<br>

Portra-160VC ($12.00 at B&H; $8.65 at Blue Moon),<br>

E100G Ektachrome ($12.00 at B&H; not carried at Blue Moon, but $8.35 for E100VS)</p>

<p>Periodically, I've bought sheet film from B&H. They're an excellent mega-company. Usually, though, I buy 35mm and 120 film from my local camera/film/processing company (Penn Camera, in suburban DC-MD), which is a very reliable, responsive company that I like a lot, and which I hope can continue to survive in a tougher and tougher economic environment. Even if it costs a few dollars more when buying film, I would prefer to support an excellent local business like Penn Camera, as well as ANY business (such as Blue Moon, on the other side of the country from me) that makes the extra effort and investment required to support the needs of old-camera users--with NO attempt at price-gouging, as their 620 film prices show. The day may eventually come when all the film used in the entire world is sold by B&H and processed by Dwayne's. But I hope it doesn't come soon; it won't be a good day for photography.</p>

<p>Anyway, as always, we each should do what we think best. I like the convenience of ready-to-use 620 film, and its guaranteed absence of dust or other complications. The minor additional cost is (to me) worth it.</p>

<p>Good luck with the infinity focus.</p>

profhlynnjones

<p>To the best of my knowledge, Kodak never made a 2 1/4" roll film camera that ever made anything but 620 (for many of us the hated 620 since the spools were cheap and often tore out).</p>

<p>The Anastar was a 3 element lens of reasonably good quality but if you had the Synchro 800 shutter, be sure that it works OK because they failed in th field to the point where the Super Graphics had their lenses/shutters replaced by Compur or Rapax shutter/lens combos.</p>

<p>Lynn </p>

<p>Lynn</p>

<p>Lynn,</p>

<p>With all respect:</p>

<p>Kodak's 2 1/4" rollfilm cameras (lots of different models) all used 120 film until 1932. Models bearing the "Kodak" name were designated "No. 1" to denote 120; models in its simpler line, bearing the "Brownie" name, were designated "No. 2" to denote 120.</p>

<p> http://www.kodak.com/global/en/consumer/products/techInfo/aa13/aa13.shtml</p>

<p> http://people.rit.edu/andpph/tphs-filmnumbers.html</p>

<p>The Anastar is a four-element lens, successor to the "Kodak Anastigmat Special." It has a Tessar design.</p>

<p> http://74.125.95.132/search?q=cache:TN_4MxT06m8J:www.camerapedia.org/wiki/Kodak_lenses+%22anastigmat+special%22+anastar+name+OR+rename+kodak&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=1&gl=us</p>

dave_leonard

<p>Concerning using 120 film in a Tourest II, if you are determined enough, it can be done. I used a Dremel tool to hollow out the body on each end and made a wider blade on the take-up spool spindle. It's a snug fit but works perfectly. These cameras are very inexpensive (especially with a Kodet lens, or whatever it's called), so it is worthwhile to pick up one cheap and try this. If you make it work, by another one with the Anaston lens (excellet lens, BTW) and swap lenses.<br>

Dave</p>

<p>Oops, I posted above to get the Anaston lens. That should have read Anastar, which is an Ektar (Tessar-type) clone. The Anaston appears to come as either a three or four element lens. Here's an interesting read on it.<br>

http://www.camerapedia.org/wiki/Kodak_lenses<br>

My experience with the 101 f= 4.5 Anastar is that it is an excellent lens.<br>

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First Shots with a Kodak Tourist

kodak tourist 2 camera film

I recently purchased a Kodak Tourist camera at an antique shop largely because it was in excellent condition and I’ve always been interested in medium format folders.

The Kodak Tourist that I have is the version 1, which was manufactured between 1948 and 1951. The lens is a Kodak Angston 105mm f/4.5 lens in a Flash Kodamatic Shutter that goes from 1/10s to 1/200s and features a bulb and timer mode.

kodak tourist 2 camera film

It’s a great camera that’s not too large (considering the size of the film), but it does bring with it some difficulties that other medium format cameras simply do not have. Specifically, here are those difficulties:

  • Takes 620 film.
  • No rangefinder or focusing aid.
  • Heavy enough to require significant effort in not shaking the camera while shooting.

The first difficulty, takes 620 film (which is discontinued as a format), is actually not too difficult to overcome. You can purchase hand rolled 620 film directly from B&H or the Film Photography Project Store . 620 film is 120 film rolled onto a spool that is a little shorter and skinnier. As such, it’s not too hard to find, but it does cost a bit more than 120 film, even though they are the same film as you are paying for someone’s time and effort in re-rolling the film. Another option that you have is rolling 120 film onto 620 spools yourself. Once you get the 620 film, the camera takes 8 beautiful 6cm x 9cm images, which are in a 2×3 format, or the same aspect ratio of 35mm film.

The second difficulty, no rangefinder or focusing aid, is actually quite a difficulty. Because of the lack of anything to tell you how far objects are from your camera, you have to guess this yourself. Hyperfocal focusing becomes important here (where you set the focus ring to have infinity at the f/stop you desire to shoot at). On the Tourist, hyperfocal focusing at f/5.6 is 25ft to infinity, at f/8 about 18 ft to infinity, f/11 gets you 14 feet, f/16 gets you 9 feet, and f/22 gets you 7 feet. But what happens if you need to photograph something that’s 5 feet in front of you and due to light need to stop down to f/5.6? At this point, you can dial in 5 feet on the middle of the focus dial and you’ll have a small area less and slightly greater than 5 feet in focus. But what if you miscalculated the distance to your subject? There is a great chance at that point, the image will be out of focus and you are out of luck. You can see how this actually poses quite a difficulty.

The third difficulty is one that I encountered when learning to use a Minolta Autocord as well and it simply requires that you train your muscles to be able to hold the camera steady while tripping the shutter. I’ve done some work with this on the Tourist and think I’ll have better luck on my next outing.

To help address the second difficulty, I’ve purchased on eBay a Walz Rangefinder that fits into the cold shoe. If this device is in good working condition as advertised, I’ll be able to use the rangefinder to accurately measure the distance to the subject and then (as the rangefinder will be uncoupled) dial that in on the focus ring. It was difficult to find information on auxiliary rangefinders in 2019 as these days, most models are laser rangefinders. For a good source on vintage auxiliary rangefinders, please take a look at Mercury Camera’s Range Finder Roundup .

And now, as promised by the title, here are 3 shots from that first roll of 8 images on Kodak Tri-X (developed in XTol) through this camera:

kodak tourist 2 camera film

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Kodak Sells Digital Camera Patents to Apple, Google, Other Tech Giants

Image may contain Electronics and Camera

A group of tech heavyweights, including Apple, Google and Facebook, have joined forces to purchase approximately 1,100 digital imaging and processing patents from Eastman Kodak for $525 million, the company announced Wednesday. Once a thriving camera and photo company, Kodak filed for Chapter 11 in early 2012, hoping to restructure.

Intellectual property aggregators Intellectual Ventures and RPX organized a consortium of 12 tech companies -- Adobe, Amazon, Apple, Facebook, Fujifilm, Google, HTC, Huawei, Microsoft, RIM, Samsung and Shutterfly -- to make the purchase. Each company will split the $525 million cost.

The portfolio was said to be worth around $2.5 billion , but Kodak settled for the $525 million. Partially, that’s because Kodak isn’t in the position to negotiate. But it's also because Kodak extensively licensed these patents to other companies. “That makes the portfolio far less valuable, because there's very little exclusivity when a patent has already been licensed to someone else,” says Harvard Business School professor and former Kodak VP Willy Shih.

According to bankruptcy court documents , Kodak has already earned $3 billion from licensing its patents. Those licensing fees made up a significant part of Kodak's revenue in the last few years.

It’s not clear who will own the patents. The 12 companies that threw their money into the pot will not directly hold the intellectual property in all likelihood. Instead, Santa Clara University law professor Brian Love says, they probably participated to prevent RPX or Intellectual Ventures from suing them in the future. “IV and RPX will likely have the patents and license them,” he says. “Going forward, neither firm will sue the companies that bought in, like Apple and Google, but IV or RPX could go after other companies they feel are infringing on these patents.”

The deal particularly benefits the companies Kodak sued over patent infringement. Existing lawsuits between Kodak and Apple, RIM, Fujifilm, HTC, Samsung and Shutterfly, are resolved under the deal.

Kodak CEO Antonio Perez counts the sale as a win. In a statement, Perez writes, “This monetization of patents is another major milestone toward successful emergence” from bankruptcy.

Despite the company’s optimistic facade, Kodak is still the loser in this deal. The once massive photo corporation has already sold off its camera and film business, leaving only its commercial printing arm. Selling a chunk of its patent portfolio is a bad omen, says Shih. “Kodak is acting out the movie Around the World in 80 Days , where they burn the furniture just to make it to the end,” he says. “But if Kodak burns everything, which is starting to look like what’s happening, there won’t be anything left.”

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kodak tourist 2 camera film

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IMAGES

  1. A Kodak 'tourist II Camera' Press Camera 620 Film

    kodak tourist 2 camera film

  2. 1951 Kodak Tourist II camera

    kodak tourist 2 camera film

  3. Kodak Tourist II overview

    kodak tourist 2 camera film

  4. 50s Kodak Tourist II 620 film type folding camera w/

    kodak tourist 2 camera film

  5. Vintage Kodak Tourist II Camera with Kodet Lens Folding Camera

    kodak tourist 2 camera film

  6. Vintage Kodak Tourist II Camera with Kodet Lens Folding Camera

    kodak tourist 2 camera film

VIDEO

  1. Kodak Vision3 200T

  2. Kodak Tourist and Tourist II plus Tourist Adapter Kit

  3. KODAK TOURIST Ⅱ

  4. new FAVORITE film camera

  5. Kodak ушел в банкротство в 2012 году

  6. KODAK Multi-Purpose Camera Strap Tutorial

COMMENTS

  1. Kodak Tourist 2 Camera

    Looking for Kodak Tourist 2 Camera? We have almost everything on eBay. But did you check eBay? Check Out Kodak Tourist 2 Camera on eBay.

  2. Kodak Tourist

    The Kodak Tourists were the last in a long line of American-made folding roll film cameras from Eastman Kodak.The original Tourist series was introduced in 1948, and included a range of quality levels at different price points. In 1949 a high-end version with a 4-element Anastar lens and Synchro-Rapid 800 shutter was released. The original Tourist series was replaced by the Tourist II series ...

  3. Kodak Tourist II folding 6×9 620 camera

    Camera-Wiki notes that the Tourist II was produced from 1951 to 1958. The rather large folder takes 620 film and makes 8 6x9cm frames (actually about 5.8cm by 8.3cm. The Tourist II was offered with a variety of lenses, the top end being an Anastar lens which retailed for $95. The Kodet lens was the bottom end, though.

  4. Kodak Eastman: Tourist II Price Guide: estimate a camera value

    Kodak Eastman: Tourist II - 1951-1958. 620 film camera. Antique, vintage and used digital ... Maybe not very desirable from a collector standpoint but because you can buy 620 roll film at Blue Moon camera in Portland Oregon, an excellent camera to walk around with. by bill339 » Sun Mar 22, 2020 1:18 pm .

  5. Kodak Tourist II overview

    #kodak #1950s #film #mediumformat #620film #shootfilmA brief description of the Kodak tourist too. A medium format camera using 620 format film produced by E...

  6. Kodak Tourist (1948)

    Kodak Tourist (1948) July 9, 2019 Photography / Reviews. This is the Kodak Tourist, made by the Eastman Kodak Corporation between the years 1948 and 1951. It is a medium format folding camera that shoots 6cm x 9cm images on 620 roll film. Despite it's humble appearance, the Tourist series was somewhat of an upscale camera, optionally ...

  7. How to load film into a Kodak Tourist II

    Most rollfilm cameras load pretty much the same way. If yours has some special feed rollers, such as on many Rolleiflex TLRs, there may be some additional steps required: 1. Place an empty spool on takeup end of the camera, where the film is wound for advancing from one frame to the next. 2. Place the roll of film in the opposite end.

  8. Kodak Tourist

    The Kodak Tourists were the last in a long line of American made folding roll film cameras from Eastman Kodak. The Tourist II, introduced in May of 1951, features a redesigned top cover and a new viewfinder, which contains frame lines for the optional 828 roll film adapter. Production was discontinued in July of 1958. The Tourists use 620 films making 8 2¼×3¼ exposures. The use of 828 roll ...

  9. 5-ish Frames with a Kodak Tourist II

    I decided to take two cameras to test. One was my late 1950's 6X6 Mamiya C3 with a 180mm 4.5 and the other was a Kodak Tourist II, the last folding camera Kodak made. The Tourist, as its name would imply is a very simple camera. The Mamiya pretty much the opposite. I bought a roll of 100 ISO 620 film for the Kodak and put a roll of Delta 400 ...

  10. Kodak Tourist II: The end of an era?

    To the best of my knowledge, the Tourist II was the last folding model made by Kodak that used bellows, marking the end of the era of the folding roll film cameras. Kodak in the UK had the Kodak 66 Model III in production 'till 1960 … a favourite camera of mine for several years … it's still in the cupboard. kodak classics - mischa koning.

  11. KODAK TOURIST II Camera

    Information page about the KODAK TOURIST II Camera. It was produced from 1951 until 1958. The original price was 100. This camera uses 620 format film. | The Kodak List.

  12. Shooting With the Kodak Tourist

    The Kodak Tourist, Released in 1948, is a 620 film camera with an 86mm fixed-focus lens. In this video, I shoot a roll through it and discuss what I liked an...

  13. Kodak Tourist II folding 6×9: Putting a Roll Through

    A gated, disused doorway leading into an Xcel Energy substation along 13th Avenue in Denver's Capitol Hill neighborhood, from the test roll through my Kodak Tourist II 6×9 camera. (Daniel J. Schneider) I shot these on Ilford Delta 100 120 film (rerolled onto a 620 spool), which I developed in Kodak HC-110E (47:1 mixture) for 8:45 min at 69°F.

  14. Kodac Tourist II

    Classic Manual Film Cameras ; Kodac Tourist II Kodac Tourist II. By samn March 7, 2009 in Classic Manual Film Cameras. Share More sharing options... Followers 0. Recommended Posts. ... <p>Kodak's 2 1/4" rollfilm cameras (lots of different models) all used 120 film until 1932. Models bearing the "Kodak" name were designated "No. 1" to denote 120 ...

  15. Kodak Tourist Folding Camera for sale

    Get the best deals on Kodak Tourist Folding Camera when you shop the largest online selection at eBay.com. Free shipping on many items | Browse your favorite brands ... Vintage Kodak Tourist Folding Film Camera Anaston f:6.3 105 mm lens Untested. $18.00. or Best Offer. $6.00 shipping. 0 bids. 11h 40m.

  16. First Shots with a Kodak Tourist

    The Kodak Tourist that I have is the version 1, which was manufactured between 1948 and 1951. The lens is a Kodak Angston 105mm f/4.5 lens in a Flash Kodamatic Shutter that goes from 1/10s to 1/200s and features a bulb and timer mode. Kodak Tourist. It's a great camera that's not too large (considering the size of the film), but it does ...

  17. Kodak Tourist

    The 1948-51 Tourist was the last in a 50-year line of folding medium-format cameras from Kodak. Amateurs who wanted more from photography than their box Brownies could deliver turned to medium-format folding cameras until 35mm photography really took off in the 1950s. There were some real advantages to medium-format folding cameras, the largest ...

  18. vintage kodak Tourist 2 folding Camera with standard Flasholder and film

    vintage kodak Tourist 2 folding Camera with standard Flasholder and film.

  19. kodak tourist ii camera for sale

    🔥 Vintage Kodak Tourist II 2 620 Film Camera W/ OG Box 🔥 N. Opens in a new window or tab. C $33.98. martin.jame (1,841) 99.3%. or Best Offer. from United States. Vintage Kodak Tourist II Film Camera . Opens in a new window or tab. C $49.11. Top Rated Seller Top Rated Seller. or Best Offer.

  20. Kodak Tourist Camera

    SERIES STATUS:(complete [Final Episode: Part 3])---This is the first part of what will be a three-part series on getting my old Kodak Tourist Series II film ...

  21. FOTO EXPRESS

    362 reviews and 261 photos of Foto Express "Best place to develop digital prints, posters, panoramas, brochures and photos, hands down. Foto Express uses a chemical process instead of regular printers to develop digital photos, which will give you the most vivid and sharp print possible. Bring in an SD card, USB pen drive or practically any medium to print and Henry will get the job done ...

  22. The Kodak Theatre

    Then the brand new Nokia Theatre entered the picture, meaning that booking top performers would be even more difficult.. In what was probably a wise move, the Kodak shifted gears in late 2007. They announced that they had signed a 10-year, $100 million deal for the ever-popular Cirque du Soleil to become a permanent tenant at the theatre. Cirque has created a brand new, Hollywood-themed show ...

  23. Kodak Sells Digital Camera Patents to Apple, Google, Other Tech Giants

    A group of tech heavyweights, including Apple, Google and Facebook, have joined forces to purchase approximately 1,100 digital imaging and processing patents from Eastman Kodak for $525 million.

  24. Top 10 Best Camera Shop near Santa Clara, CA 95050

    They appeared to have a great selection of Nikon, Canon, Fuji, and Sony digital cameras and lenses, and had a used cabinet with lenses and cameras, including film." Top 10 Best Camera Shop in Santa Clara, CA 95050 - October 2023 - Yelp - San Jose Camera & Video, Camera Repair & Audio Service, Foto Express, K & H Photography, Coremicro, PostNet ...

  25. Camera used : Olympus Trip 35 Film used : Kodak portra 400

    14 likes, 0 comments - project___analog on October 2, 2023: "Camera used : Olympus Trip 35 Film used : Kodak portra 400 ...