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Hello, Iceland

Iceland is trendy these days. My staff has been nagging me to incorporate it into our program with a guidebook and tours. One of our top researchers and guides, Ian Watson, is raising his family there. And until now I’d never been there.

This year I thought, finally, I’ll extend my trip a few days and stop in Iceland on the way home. I was flying Icelandair, which has famously liberal stopover privileges in Reykjavik — where I had to change planes anyway. I told the Icelandic Tourist Board I had a couple of days for Iceland and challenged them to show me the best of their country. They generously showed me a very good time. While I won’t write a guidebook to Iceland (the Lonely Planet guide is just out and is excellent) and we won’t be incorporating Iceland into our tour program, I had a great visit. I’ll be reporting on my experience in the next few entries.

Tourism is booming in Iceland — up 30 percent this year over its best-ever year for tourism in 2012. They enjoyed well over two tourist visits per resident for the past two years. About half of their tourist economy comes in July and August when the days are long, the weather is pleasant, and people tend to visit. But even on a sunny day during my visit, I layered on everything I had and envied the locals with their woolly ski caps.

While tourism is limited to summer (and always will be, regardless of how enthusiastically the tourist board promotes off-season festivals), other industries roll on. Two big businesses are fishing (obviously) and aluminum production (not so obvious). Using Iceland’s cheap electricity, factories produce aluminum from bauxite, which requires lots of electrical energy, or heat. They can actually ship in the raw material, use their affordable energy to heat it up, and then export the aluminum — and make good money.

Right off the plane, I took a taxi to the hotel and hopped on a whale-watching boat for a three-hour tour, a three-hour tour. We saw plenty of birds and little fish, but no whales. Still, I enjoyed the bracing and fresh North Atlantic wind, grand views, and a good chance to chat with the pilot and get my cultural bearings:

If you can’t see the video below, watch it on YouTube .

8 Replies to “Hello, Iceland”

Steve- I’m a Seattle-area person too, and with how cheap/easy it is to fly to Reykjavik from SEA now, I completely disagree with your “tourism is limited to summer and always will be.” I, along with many other people I know, have visited in the winter for a long (5-day) weekend and loved it. See the Northern Lights, attempt the runtur, go on the Golden Circle Tour, hang at the Blue Lagoon, and spend evenings at outdoor local pools (in -20F weather, it’s lovely). With the sun up only between 11am and 3pm, it’s an amazing place to spend a weekend.

My brother in law traveled there for years on business and always highly recommended it! I have always wanted to see the Northern lights, and I think staying in a resort would be lovely in the middle of winter.

So… did you taste the shark?

Rick: Don’t forget the pylsurs (hot dogs!) which are far better than the shark. Iceland is fascinating to be in during times other than the summer–there are literally 4 hours of daylight during the winter months here, which is a marvel. And the national pastime of swimming in the geothermally heated municipal pools–every town has one–makes for a great activity any time of year. Enjoy Reykjavik, but come back and travel outside the capitol for some of the best wilderness you’ll ever see. –djs

I just spent 2 fabulous weeks in Iceland in July. The scenery was amazing, and there is so much to see outside of Reykjavik! I once asked Rick why he didn’t do Iceland, but now I understand. Its too rustic for tours like his. I did a lot of outdoors activities like hiking, lava tube, horseback riding, and volcano tour which required skilled guides in outdoorsmanship. Reykjavik was fun too, but its not like visiting Paris, etc. Iceland is a fantastic place to visit, but you definitely need to pack your hiking boots to get a real good experience of the country. And yes, I tried the shark. Yuck.

Thanks, Rick, for posting these vignettes of Iceland. I spent several days there on my way back from Oslo to Seattle a couple of years ago, and fell in love with the little bit of it I saw. I will return! I have mixed feelings about tourist development in Iceland, as I have had with all “undiscovered” areas I have loved and then had to share with thousands of new explorers. I won’t post most of my favorites for the world to read until I’ve returned and (selfishly) enjoyed them one more time. However, riding the elevator to the top of the cathedral and experiencing the autumn winds screaming around the clock tower is worth adding into a visit to Reykjavik.

Thanks for finally posting about Iceland! I was lucky enough to go last year with two friends in September – just outside of the “tourist” season. It was fantastic! The people are extremely friendly, there is no language barrier (and it’s fun to learn a few words and how to pronounce the somewhat difficult language). Also – you are virtually guaranteed a wireless connection just about any where.

We spent four days in Rekyjavik (fun! great! modern!) with a side trip to the Golden Triangle, and then drove the Ring Road around the entire country seeing Akureyri, Lake Myvatn, Dettifoss (amazing!), the east fjords which were stunning, Jokulsarlon and all the way back towards the airport for an afternoon and night at the Blue Lagoon. The ring road trip was easily completed in three days. Although the Blue Lagoon is great, don’t miss all the public soaking pools in just about every city. Our entire trip was eight days and I could have spent 8 more. We were also lucky enough to see the northern lights in Hofn.

Well I loved it there. For something a little different but completely accessible, I’d recommend Iceland to anyone. Hope to go back someday – oh and we did fly Icelandair from NYC. True, the plane is cramped and you pay for everything but it was cheap and the flight is relatively short compared to flying all the way to the continent.

My daughter and I are making an impromptu visit to Iceland from December 27 to January 3. We are looking for any advice from someone who has been there in the winter. How is the driving? Any tours that you can recommend? We are also looking at hotels and apartments. Any thoughts there? Sue

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Rick Steves Iceland Paperback – Folded Map, April 28, 2020

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Purchase options and add-ons

• Comprehensive itineraries that can be adapted for 24-hour layovers, 5-day visits, 2-week trips, and more, including the best road trips in Iceland from the Ring Road to the Golden Circle
• Rick's strategic advice on how to get the most out of your time and money, with rankings of his must-see favorites
• Top sights and hidden gems, from the stunning northern lights to hidden hikes and cozy bookstores
• How to connect with local culture: Soak in hidden hot springs, sample smoked fish, and chat with locals in moody and welcoming rural towns
• Beat the crowds, skip the lines, and avoid tourist traps with Rick's candid, humorous insight
• The best places to eat, sleep, and relax
• Self-guided walking tours of lively Reykjavík and art and history museums and mile-by-mile scenic driving tours
• Detailed maps for exploring on the go
• Useful resources including a packing list, an Icelandic phrase book, a historical overview, and recommended reading
• Over 500 bible-thin pages include everything worth seeing without weighing you down
• Complete, up-to-date information on Reykjavík, the Reykjanes Peninsula, the Golden Circle, the South Coast, the Westman Islands, West Iceland, The Ring Road, the East Fjords, and more
• Part of series Rick Steves
• Print length 608 pages
• Language English
• Publisher Rick Steves
• Publication date April 28, 2020
• Dimensions 4.6 x 1.4 x 8 inches
• ISBN-10 1641712317
• ISBN-13 978-1641712316
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Explore Iceland with Rick Steves

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• Publisher ‏ : ‎ Rick Steves; 2nd edition (April 28, 2020)
• Language ‏ : ‎ English
• Paperback ‏ : ‎ 608 pages
• ISBN-10 ‏ : ‎ 1641712317
• ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-1641712316
• Item Weight ‏ : ‎ 15.5 ounces
• Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 4.6 x 1.4 x 8 inches
• #5 in Iceland Travel Guides
• #44 in Maps (Books)
• #88 in Tourist Destinations & Museums Guides

About the authors

Cameron hewitt.

Cameron Hewitt was born in Denver, grew up in Central Ohio, and moved to Seattle in 2000 to help Rick Steves research and write America's bestselling guidebooks. Since then, Cameron has spent 100 days each year exploring Europe. He has traveled to and written about more than 35 European countries and has co-authored guidebooks on Croatia, Budapest, Iceland, Scotland, Greece, Berlin, and many more. Cameron also serves as Content and Editorial Director at Rick Steves' Europe, Inc.; guides Rick Steves tours in Europe; contributes to Rick's television series and radio program; presents travel talks; and blogs about his travels at www.cameronhewitt.com. The Temporary European: Lessons and Confessions of a Professional Traveler — a collection of travel stories from 25 years of exploring Europe — was published by Travelers' Tales in early 2022. Cameron married his high school sweetheart and favorite travel partner, Shawna; they live in the Phinney Ridge neighborhood of Seattle, Washington.

Rick Steves

Guidebook author and travel TV host Rick Steves is America's most respected authority on European travel. Rick took his first trip to Europe in 1969, visiting piano factories with his father, a piano importer. As an 18-year-old, Rick began traveling on his own, funding his trips by teaching piano lessons. In 1976, he started his business, Rick Steves' Europe, which has grown from a one-man operation to a company with a staff of 100 full-time, well-travelled employees at his headquarters in Washington state. There he produces more than 50 guidebooks on European travel, America's most popular travel series on public television, a weekly hour-long national public radio show, a weekly syndicated column, and free travel information available through his travel center and ricksteves.com. Rick Steves' Europe also runs a successful European tour program. Rick Steves lives and works in his hometown of Edmonds, Washington. His office window overlooks his old junior high school.

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Rick Steves Says This Iconic Tourist Attraction In Iceland Isn't Really Worth The Cost

I n the Land of Fire and Ice, Iceland's natural beauty is legendary, drawing nearly 2 million travelers eager to experience its iconic volcanic landscapes, majestic waterfalls, and mystical northern lights each year. Among these, the Blue Lagoon appears across the board in travel brochures and Instagram feeds, considered a must-visit destination. However, acclaimed travel expert Rick Steves suggests that this famous geothermal spa may not be worth the hype — or the hefty entrance fee.

The Blue Lagoon, situated in a lava field near Grindavik on the Reykjanes Peninsula, is a naturally heated human-made lagoon fed by water from the nearby Svartsengi geothermal power plant. In fact, you can see the infrastructure, pipes and all, of this massive factory right from the Blue Lagoon (not the most attractive view). Over the years, it has become one of Iceland's top tourist attractions, known for its healing milky-blue waters and silica mud masks. But according to Rick Steves, the lagoon's commercialization and high costs might not offer the value many travelers seek.

So, what's the damage? Entry to the Blue Lagoon starts at around $70 per person. This "Comfort" package entry fee includes a silica mud mask, towel, and one drink, but extras like spa treatments, dining, and additional beverages at the lagoon's swim-up bar can add up quickly. The "Premium" or "Signature" packages include more perks but can cost over $100 depending on when you visit. For many travelers, these costs can be prohibitive, especially considering the already high price tag of traveling in Iceland — a $300 average daily budget.

Read more: The Prettiest Waters Around The World

The Blue Lagoon: Smoke And Mirrors?

Another point of contention is the overcrowding that notoriously and regularly plagues the Blue Lagoon. With the growth in Iceland's tourism, especially in the post-pandemic era, the lagoon sees upwards of 4,000 visitors on an average day! The photos of people floating in the lagoon with not a soul in sight? Either photoshopped or cropped to exclude literal hordes of tourists. As you try to relax and enjoy the waters, there will be people all around you — families with crying children, backpackers on their fourth beer, large tour groups, and so on. This can lead to a pretty stressful experience as guests jostle for space in the warm waters and queue for amenities.

Speaking of queues, be prepared to line up for everything: food, sauna, drinks, shower, wristband, locker, etc. The irony is that your visit to Iceland's Blue Lagoon must be pre-paid and pre-booked, explains Rick Steves. Walk-ins are not accepted. The arrival time slots are strict, with only an hour of wiggle room — if you miss it, your ticket is forfeited. This inconvenience leaves no room for flexibility or spontaneity. The commercial atmosphere of the Blue Lagoon is a departure from the tranquil, natural settings many visitors expect. While the spa does offer a unique experience with its steamy waters and silica-rich mud, what you get is more like a well-marketed luxury resort. According to Rick Steves, this aspect might diminish the sense of adventure and authenticity many seek when visiting Iceland.

Other Alternatives In Iceland

For those who wish to bathe in Iceland's geothermal waters but are turned off by the Blue Lagoon, there are other options. How about a  less crowded and just as unforgettable destination dupe ? The Secret Lagoon in Fludir and the Myvatn Nature Baths in North Iceland come at a fraction of the cost and with fewer crowds. Moreover, numerous free, wild hot springs dot the Icelandic landscape, though they lack comfortable amenities and require more adventure to reach. Hrunalaug, Laugarvellir, and Reykjafjarðarlaug are a few among countless others.

Rick Steves points out that much of Iceland's allure comes from its unspoiled nature and the thousand-year-old legends locals have about every element of the country's landscape. Places like the Gullfoss waterfall, the black sand beaches of Vik, or the quiet majesty of the Westfjords offer equally stunning experiences without the high price tag. What is especially telling about the Blue Lagoon is that you will likely only see tourists there — the only local Icelanders are the employees. 

With all that said, the Blue Lagoon is a quintessential Icelandic destination. The experience is a memorable one, and many travelers cannot imagine a trip to Iceland without dunking in its 100-degree milky-blue waters — which are perfectly safe. Conveniently, it's located only 20 minutes away from Keflavík airport. Rick Steves recommends combining the visit with your flight in or out of Iceland — baggage storage is available. Just make sure to reserve well in advance on the Blue Lagoon website.

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