the african poverty safari on wheels

A revolution in helping Africa’s poor: Cash with no strings attached

CHAMBA, Malawi — The cyclone tore through Magret Frank’s village two years ago, ripping apart the thatched mud huts. She dragged her four children from their beds just before the roof beams collapsed, and their chickens and clothes were swept away into the howling night.

“I cried inside. But I am the mother — I have to be strong,” said Frank, who has had three homes that were destroyed by cyclones. “So I told them, as long as we have life, there is a new dawn.”

But now, like her neighbors, she is sleeping through storms in a new brick house with an iron roof. The constellation of new homes is the product of a pioneering program that is Africa’s largest cash giveaway as measured by amount per person. It is part of a project that aims to revolutionize the way that aid is given to the poor: in a lump sum of cash with no strings attached.

The program is run by GiveDirectly, an organization founded by graduates of MIT and Harvard who work with prominent economists to identify the most efficient ways to reduce poverty. Donors include Twitter co-founder Jack Dorsey, philanthropist MacKenzie Scott, Facebook co-founder Chris Hughes and the founders of the graphic design tool Canva.

Lump sums are the most efficient way to give cash, according to a study of GiveDirectly programs released in December that compared the impact of three methods: in small transfers over 12 years; in small transfers over two years; or in a lump sum. Two years in, recipients of the lump sum have spent more money on health care, and more of their children have scored better on school exams, according to the study by MIT economics professor Abhijit Banerjee and others, including two GiveDirectly directors. The lump-sum recipients were also more likely to start a business and to make more money from their business.

The implications are far-reaching for families such as Frank’s.

After the 2022 cyclone destroyed her home, her family slept in a six-foot-square thatched kitchen largely open to the elements. She wove grass mats to sell for 50 cents each, trying to save enough to rebuild. She said she couldn’t even dream of a brick home. It took her weeks of saving to replace her plastic bucket, the lost item she most mourned.

Then a stranger arrived with a wild proposition: Each household, including Frank’s, would be given $800 — more than she would usually earn in two years. Like most of her neighbors, she used the money to build a new house.

Now cyclones can’t wreck Frank’s food stores, kill her chickens, or ruin her clothes and utensils. Village chief Edna Nikisi said the 2022 cyclone flattened 26 houses. This season, cyclones were strong, but they blew down only four homes, all old-style mud huts.

Global shift to cash

Frank benefited from a global push to distribute more aid in cash. Two decades ago, microfinance was the darling of the aid world. But it attracted predatory lenders and locked recipients into cycles of debt, and recent research has cast doubt over its long-term impact.

Traditionally, aid agencies distributed items such as food , livestock and laptops , but a frequent mismatch between donations and need meant items were often sold, stolen, broken or wasted, various studies found. So donors are increasingly moving to cash. Studies have repeatedly shown that cash is the most efficient form of aid when markets are functioning. New technology such as mobile money makes it easy to send cash directly to the world’s poorest. Governments in Togo, Brazil, South Africa and Mexico have all introduced small cash payments for poor families.

Although cash and voucher programs are increasingly popular , growing from $6.6 billion in 2020 to $10 billion in 2022, they still account globally for only about 5 percent of development aid and just under 20 percent of humanitarian aid, according to a 2023 report by the CALP Network, a consortium of 90 aid groups. Such programs typically give out tiny monthly sums. They also sometimes carry conditions — such as school enrollment or vaccinations — and often suffer from “ineffective targeting, unsustainable funding, and irregular payment cycles,” economists Adam Salifu and Kennedy Makafui Kufoalor said in a 2024 study.

Paul Niehaus, co-founder of GiveDirectly, says cash transfers can’t replace traditional aid to build roads, police forces or hospitals, but they do give recipients more choices. Poor people usually know their needs better than a bureaucrat or aid worker, he said, and lump sums offer opportunities that stipends don’t. Tiny sums, he said, can stave off starvation but not transform a life.

The debate on how to lift people out of poverty is most urgent in Africa. Overall, global wealth has quadrupled in the past 30 years, but a third of the people in Africa still live in extreme poverty — about 100 million more than in 1990, according to the World Bank . That is due partly to rising populations and partly to factors such as war, poor governance and climate change. The ranks of the poor have increased even as money has poured in: Aid to African countries totaled $53.5 billion in 2022 — slightly more than half the $100 billion that the Brookings Institution last year estimated would be needed for direct cash transfers to eradicate extreme poverty globally.

Malawi, where fog-cloaked hills encircle verdant fields, is often called a development puzzle. It is fertile and has never fought a war. Since 2005, wealthy countries have spent $16.5 billion on development assistance to Malawi. But poverty has not decreased , the World Bank says, noting that for every three Malawians who moved out of poverty be­tween 2010 and 2019, four were pushed back in by climate shocks.

Many families remain too poor to take advantage of newly built schools and clinics. Save the Children supports the school that serves Frank’s village, where shrieks of laughter drift among the neem trees. But when cyclones ruined books and uniforms, her children had to drop out because the items were too expensive for Frank to replace. Neither could she afford the bumpy motorbike ride down a long sandy track to a U.N.-supported clinic if her children contracted malaria or pneumonia sleeping outside.

Now, she can use both the school and the clinic.

Physician Alinafe Kachigwali said deaths at Kasiya Health Center in Khongoni have fallen significantly since the GiveDirectly disbursement began. Now, women can pay for transportation to the clinic or even to a referral hospital if needed, she said. Double the number of women are coming in for five-month prenatal checkups, hospital records show, meaning complications are being detected sooner.

Lessons learned

GiveDirectly calculates that, including operating costs, it would need nearly $4 billion to give $550 to every adult in Malawi living in extreme poverty. So far, the program has given out $50 million to 160,000 adults in the country.

At first, GiveDirectly tried to target the poorest villagers by disbursing money only to those living in thatched-roof homes. But now even those with brick houses get cash. That helps reduce potential conflicts or cheating.

And those with stable living situations are more likely to use the cash to create jobs. A lanky, nearsighted tailor bought glasses and a sewing machine that tripled his income. A shop owner converted a cement room into a raucous nursery for 56 children and now employs three teachers. A farmer bought a solar fridge to sell cold drinks and a solar phone charger that he now rents out.

Sometimes, there are problems, including incidents of fraud and theft by staffers in the Democratic Republic of Congo and Uganda. In each case, GiveDirectly said, it hired external investigators and changed its systems. Outsiders also try to game the system by moving into qualifying villages, but GiveDirectly says a census conducted beforehand weeds them out.

Malawi’s finance minister, Simplex Chithyola, said the government was coordinating closely with GiveDirectly. “If you dictate and impose a particular service provision, it denies [poor families] the right to a choice,” he said. “The wish is to do as GiveDirectly is doing, but quite a number of people are in need.”

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Boating on the confluence of the Zambezi and Chobe rivers, Botswana. Scott Hurd

  Access Africa guidebook author and quadriplegic, Gordon Rattray , leads by example as he encourages travelers with limited mobility to tour and go on safari to Kenya, Tanzania, Namibia, Botswana, South Africa and Zambia’s Victoria Falls.

As an able-bodied overland driver in Africa in the 1990s, writing a safari and tour guidebook for people with limited mobility had never crossed my mind. Even if someone had suggested it, I would probably have laughed. Surely there wouldn’t be enough accessible accommodation! Similarly, would the roads be good enough? And what about the flight to get there? Come to think of it, would there be any transport for someone who uses a wheelchair? Apart from all of that, what about the heat, the wild animals and the potential of illness? No, I might have said, leave Africa to the fit and strong; seaside holidays are surely challenge enough for those less able.

Several years later, after a diving accident left me quadriplegic and a fulltime wheelchair user, I was forced to reconsider my capabilities. I had to assess what I was able to do myself then learn how to use other people and various types of equipment to cope with the rest.

To my surprise, I found that my travel horizons hadn’t actually changed that much. A few ‘test trips’ getting out of the home comfort zone gave me the confidence to return to Africa, where I re-discovered the joy of real adventure. This first journey was a tentative visit to Tanzania, but after a more daring rummage around Ethiopia (which was new, and immensely rewarding territory to me) I was convinced that too few disabled travelers knew just what was possible. This led me to Bradt Travel Guides, who were looking for information about disability travel to include in their titles.

Giraffe Feeding Centre, Nairobi, Kenya. GoAfrica Safaris & Travel

Bradt’s enthusiasm for the subject inspired the idea of a dedicated safari guidebook, but only once I started the research did I really begin to understand the task. Not only is there a huge range of different disabilities but many older people also have similar needs. On top of these, travelers with temporary ailments (broken legs, pulled muscles) and people with chronic knee or hip problems need to be considered.

Of course, this surprisingly large audience is a bonus, but the dilemma it brings is how to make the information useful for everyone. For instance, the needs of a quadriplegic powerchair user differ entirely from those of a strong paraplegic or someone who can walk with sticks. I realised that dividing readers into categories and rating accommodation as suitable (or not) for each group would be inaccurate and virtually useless.

Safari drive at the Masai Mara game reserve in southwest Kenya. GoAfrica Safaris & Travel

Doing the research was a revelation. I know Africans have a well-deserved reputation for hospitality, and an immense ability to improvise that’s often borne out of necessity. However, the reception I received was not expected. Virtually everywhere, lodge owners and managers were genuinely interested in the project, and they often wanted to know more. I carried simplified guidelines giving basic access requirements, and found that promises were regularly made to improve facilities. These pledges have often been kept – I’ve received photos of improvements since my visits – and, much to my delight, I’ve even seen adaptations carried out during my stay!

Light aircraft safari travel is also possible for wheelchair users. Scott Hurd

As well as being an adventure, a safari is relatively sedentary – the traditional method of exploring the wild places involves little more than sitting in a vehicle. While this makes it an ideal vacation for people with restricted mobility, most game driving is done in high 4x4s or minibuses meaning that solutions often have to be found for transfers. Many visitors will either need to accept help or use a tour operator with adapted vehicles.

Wheelchair clients use adapted GoAfrica Safaris & Travel vehicles on their custom-planned tours.

In this regard my timing has (by pure good fortune) been perfect. In the last decade, several African companies have invested serious time and money into this niche and there is now a specialised operator servicing every region I’ve covered in the book. In other words, the most visited game parks of the top six safari countries have transport options to suit the majority of physical disabilities. Perhaps more than anything else, this has opened Africa to everyone. If, of course, you don’t mind being helped or you can step unaided into such cars, then you have virtually unlimited choice.

Guest, Herbert Winterl, tests the wheelchair access at Ngepi Camp, Namibia. Ngepi Camp

On top of that, it’s worth remembering that some lodges run boat trips, or have waterholes with viewing decks, providing even more potentially accessible game viewing opportunities. Very often, the best experiences are not the result of a wide-ranging game drive but a relaxed river cruise or a patient – and peaceful – wait in camp. I’ve explored all these options thoroughly in the book, describing transfer styles and road conditions, and listing the operators, the regions they cover and the services they provide.

Regarding health, while it is essential to think carefully about the potential effects of tropical travel, good preparation in advance and care on the road remove most risks. I’ve called in expert advice for the chapter on health issues, and have paid special attention to insurance. This is another crucial consideration, especially for people with disabilities.

Once a safari overland driver himself, guidebook author, Gordon Rattray, now rolls through Africa on a different set of wheels. Ingrid Vekemans

Contrary to what most people might think – and what I would have said years ago, a safari IS a real option for people with limited mobility. Since I first returned to Africa as a chair user I’ve never doubted the need for this guide, and now, after putting it together – despite the dilemmas – I’m even more convinced of this. The result, I hope, will provide readers with a balanced view of their options. It should help experienced travelers to see what’s possible and will hopefully inspire those more novice travelers to considered going on safari. Even people who have no wish to visit Africa should find the book useful as it contains information and resources that can apply to travel anywhere in the world.

Gordon Rattray graduated in Botany from Glasgow University before traveling the world. Truck driving and a passion for adventure eventually brought him to Africa in the mid-1990s where he explored more than 20 countries as an overland driver. After his diving accident rendered him a wheelchair user, he returned to the continent to pursue more adventures from a different perspective.

Feel free to explore other stories with an African theme for vacations well suited to senior travelers, their families and friends. Click on the titles below to read each inspiring article. Best video tips for holiday adventure. Volunteer for wildlife in Africa. Would you climb Mt. Kilimanjaro? Volunteering in Rural Tanzania. Okavango Delta Walking Safari . African wildlife photography tips . The language of African elephants. Cheetah volunteer vacation. South African walking safari.

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You can expect to spend at least 6 hours a day in a 4×4 on a typical safari in Africa . That’s a long time to be in a vehicle. So it’s not surprising that many of our clients have questions about what type of 4×4 they’ll be in, how many it will seat, and whether they can get a private vehicle for their safari. We hope to clarify all these questions and more, below.

How many persons are there typically on a safari vehicle?

• You can spend as much or as little time as you want viewing specific animals. If you’re on your 5th safari day, and a new couple has just arrived and is sharing your vehicle, you may not appreciate spending an hour watching impala, when there could be a pride of lion further down the road. Everyone has a different “safari pace”. Some people wish to rush through checking animals off a list, others are happy to spend an hour just enjoying the birds and plant life.
• Private vehicles come with a driver/guide so you have the benefit of the same guide for your entire safari. You’ll get to know him well, and vice versa. One of the advantages of having your own driver/guide is he’ll be familiar with what animals you’d most like to see, and what animals you’ve already seen along the way.
• When you’re traveling in a private vehicle you can make stops anytime you want. This is very handy for bathroom breaks, but even more so if you come across a Maasai market for example, and want to take a look.
• You’ll have more room to spread out in a private vehicle if there are less than six of you in your party. This is handy for those with lots of camera equipment who might want a spare seat or two to put their equipment on.

Is There Always a Private Vehicle Option?

• In some cases you will not have the option of booking a private vehicle. If you are on safari in Botswana’s Okavango Delta for example, the safari camps are usually fly-in camps and they have their own vehicles on site for game drives. You could potentially fly in your own guide/driver but you would be responsible for the extra costs involved.
• Many of the best safari camps are on private conservancies or concessions. The advantage is that you get to enjoy a very exclusive safari experience without the crowds. To keep it this way, there are very strict rules about the number of guests allowed at camps, as well as the corresponding number of vehicles. If you are a party of two, it may be impossible to request a private vehicle because other guests may then be unable to take a game drive. You can always request a private vehicle, but it cannot be guaranteed.

What is the difference between traveling overland with a private guide and doing a fly-in safari with resident guides?

• The Driver/Guide – As mentioned above, the advantage you have traveling overland with a private guide is that he’ll know what you’ve already seen and what wildlife you enjoy spending time to view. He’ll stop at markets or shops en route if you’re interested in experiencing a little culture along the way. Those clients who fly-in to camp and use resident guides and vehicles have the advantage of localized knowledge (but all the guides we use will share sightings and are very qualified). If you are a keen birder or have very specific wildlife interests that are unique to the area, a resident guide may be a better option for you.

What Vehicles are Used on Safari? Contrary to popular opinion, Jeeps are not the safari vehicle of choice. Your safari chariot will almost always be either a Land Rover or a Land Cruiser. A small handful of hybrid safari vehicles are out there, but have not made a real dent in the market as yet.

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Holding an MBA in Tourism, boasts significant experience in the Namibian tourism sector, including tour guiding.

With over 15 years in the industry, Delphin has served in various capacities, from professional guide, trainer, operations specialist and now owner and managing director of a tourism entity. His deep-rooted passion for travel drives him to excel, evident in his meticulous attention to detail, commitment to upholding service quality without compromise and ensuring strict adherence to all contracted agreements.

Delphin’s passion for the Namibian tourism industry has motivated him to join the TASA board in 2020.

Tom loves to work with people from multicultural backgrounds. Tom has over 10 years of experience in tourism, both as a freelance and contract tour guide with well-established companies including African Eagle, Karibu Safaris and Kodiak Island. He has worked as a tour guide specifically for key French speaking markets and currently serves as General Manager Kodiak Island since 2017. Tom has joined the TASA Board in 2022, he is open-minded and very enthusiastic about learning new skills.

Ingrid & I have set up Damarana Safaris cc in 1998, specialised on the French speaking market. From expeditions & trekking tour guide to managing Director, I developed a wide and diverse knowledge on the Namibian tourism industry… Top to Bottom! During that time, I also grew a total respect for Namibia and its people, wishing the best for both. This is why I have decided to get involved with Tasa, to give back some positive energy and a serious will to develop a profitable and equitable tourism for this country, I am considering like a home today!

Mr. Ndoroma was born on 08/03/1951, a Namibian citizen and is married with four children. He is currently the Executive Chairman of Twine Investment Holdings (Pty) Ltd, an investment and property development entity. Intermix Tours & Safaris Pty Ltd – Involved in various Tourism Activities – Travel and Accommodation

Came to Namibia in 1993, and he established a specialist safari company called SandyAcre Safaris in 1995. This was later merged with another owner-managed safari company called Tou Safaris to become Ultimate Safaris in 2008. He first joined the TASA Board in 1995 and went on from there to become the Fenata Executive officer, before becoming Fenata chairman and TASA vice-chairman of TASA in 2009. He re-joined the TASA Board in 2022, and was then re-elected as Fenata Chairman for a term from then until August 2024 when he will finally retire from active participation in Namibian tourism associations.

Originally coming from an entirely different profession, the tourism industry availed challenging possibilities in 1996 when starting at Trans Namibia Tours, where we discovered the endless possibilities which tourism offers. With an ever growing love for Namibia, the neighboring countries and the captivating beauty of Africa, it became more than a job, it became a lifelong passion. Since 2001, Exclusive Africa Tours & Safaris and our valued partners, gave us 22 years of product knowledge within the African Tourism & Travel industry. Till date this “passion” keeps the fire burning to put Namibia on the map, and to discover & offer exiting adventures to our valued guests. Namibia however always remains “the smile on the Face of Africa”

Born and bred Swakopmunder, returned to Namibia in 2015 to join her family-business, Namibia Tracks & Trails.  After working for various touring companies in South Africa since 1999, Wiebke now heads up the NTT team in Swakopmund.  Wiebke joined the TASA board as a co-opted member in 2020 and has been appointed the TASA secretary in 2022.

I have worked in the tourism industry for over 26 years in various sectors, including charters, hospitality, car rental, Air Namibia and Wilderness for the past 7 years now as regional travel manager, overseeing the entire reservations and office team at the “Namib Travel Shop”. I am very passionate about our country and love sharing our amazing landscapes and experiences with our guests.

A Little Adrift… Dispatch From Africa: Perspectives on Poverty

Last updated on May 15, 2023 by Shannon

A month into my trip and travels thus far are filled with highs and lows; there were a few days last week where I just wanted to give up, which is normal on any given trip but usually later into the travels. Once Gary left, and I was on my own again, I was overwhelmed with the weight of balancing work and solo travel. But, I met new friendly faces in the past week, and partnering up for a few days helped straighten out some of the discombobulated feeling.

Pushing through the overwhelm, I finished out my time in Cape Town and caught a flight to Nairobi, Kenya. Arriving here was a surreal flashback to Mumbai —bustling traffic, congestion, and drive from the airport lined with slums. This is far from the Africa of travel brochures. A region that calls home to the “Big Five” animals travel dreams are made of is also a struggling, developing economy.

Conversations with Taxi Drivers

The moment I landed, however, my driver’s enthusiastic exclamation of  karibu!— which means welcome in Swahili—had me smiling. Language barriers are a fear point for many travelers, and I can only say that the gap here is small. Nairobi hums with English and Swahili both as lingua franca, and most Kenyans speak with fluency. Which makes traveling and learning about the country infinitely easier.

Taxi drivers are fonts of information on this trip. Travels in Asia are often filled with stilted conversations and games of charades, but my African drivers converse with the skill of a veteran barman as they the bob and weave through gridlock traffic. They field any topic you throw their way with ease and insight, though the talk here, as in South Africa, often circles back to poverty and politics.

And as we talk of life (and even philosophy on one late-night ride) my taxi drivers ask me about America. The great American dream is alive here, and throughout most developing countries I visit. Yet it’s skewed. Hollywood and our media have done an excellent job selling others on the big dream, and my drivers are shocked and most don’t believe me when I mention things like poverty, racism, and homelessness in the United States. Our poverty is relative rather than systemic like in many developing countries, but these issues are not a part of the consciousness outside the U.S. We are a vast land of opportunity in comparison, this is not an argument against the U.S., but we are far from the Utopian image portrayed outside our borders.

It’s hard to explain to them that we have traded much for the sake of our take on prosperity. A moving documentary I watched last year, God Grew Tired of Us , follows three Sudanese men on a journey from wandering across sub-Saharan Africa to life in the U.S. Their initial elation gives way to deeper insights as the boys remark on the odd state of our communities, the unconnected lives we lead from each other, and the hard work it takes to even to subsist for many Americans.

Like the route our taxi took through the city, our conversations wove through all these complex issues this past week as I made my way through three airports and three thousand miles.

Slum Tourism in Kenya

In the way of weaving, let’s shift topics a bit. I mentioned last week my plan to visit a township in Cape Town on the recommendation of many travelers and as many South Africans. The resounding question is: what did I think?

My conclusion is muddled. I just don’t know if this is a positive form of tourism. It had never before occurred to me to partake in one of these tours, but somehow I found myself on two tours in one week. The standard recommendation is to find the right operator, one using the funds to build community projects and empower those in the townships and slums. There is, without a doubt, great need in these areas, but as much as I push local-level tourism, this feels off on a large scale.

I didn’t love my Cape Town tour, and yet two days later I took a new friend up on a chance to see a different side of it all as he looked for partnerships in the Kibera slum  in Nairobi for his music charity, Bridges for Music . I tagged along in the hopes of seeing an alternative side since we had a purpose, a reason for being there. And it was interesting, I learned a lot and saw incredible initiatives within the slums and heard some excellent local music to boot.

But in both places, our guides carefully mentioned the need to photograph areas and not people as we walked the streets, to not peer into homes and invade their privacy . . . and having to stress that this is not a zoo-like experience (their words) is the very reason I can only say that mass slum tourism is an ethically ambiguous area and as such, others should tread carefully.

And one last thought, NGOs catch a lot of flack in Kenya and it only furthers this idea of whether aid and development are progressing in a positive direction. Cynicism abounds, especially in the projects within Kibera, and it didn’t take long for locals to point me to Aid for Aid , a home-grown parody series about an international NGO that accomplishes nothing but is filled with do-gooders.

Moving Forward

Switching countries came with a marked change in the attitudes and welcome here in East Africa, and these next weeks have me jazzed once again. When I asked the community for recommendations on grassroots projects, you guys gave me heaps of wonderful work being done over here! Enough that most of my weeks are planned out from here until June when I head home. So, thank you. And, if you have any others, let me know, I can always squeeze in more along the way.

Next week’s update is a big one for me as I am visiting my first safari this weekend! I’ll make sure to edit my photos asap so I can share photos of the Big Five — lion, leopard, rhino, buffalo, and elephant.

Have a wonderful weekend.  :)

53 thoughts on “A Little Adrift… Dispatch From Africa: Perspectives on Poverty”

I totally agree that this is a complicated subject! I am part of an organisation based in South Africa (edgeofafrica .com) offering responsible volunteering opportunities. As part of our orientation for new volunteers we include a community tour. Our focus is on showing volunteers the projects that we have initiated in the community so there is a definitive purpose to our tour. There are also other organisations here (in Knysna) who offer township tours for visiting tourists and I do believe that there is a benefit for the community from these kinds of tours, as long as they are run in an ethical manner by people with a deep understanding of the community. For example I know that one of our local township tour companies is part owned by a lady who lives in the same community that the tours take place in, and the funds that are raised directly benefit the community by funding a safe house for abused women and children. I would just advise people to do their homework and make sure you are supporting an ethical organisation and that you know where the funds are going :)

This post opens up a new topic which I never thought of.. “Slum Tourism”. Are we going to see people dwelling in slums? As a tourists?

Yes, that is the essence of this type of tourist experience.

Its interesting you say you were asked not to take photos of people, as this was seen as an invasion of privacy, and yet you display a photo of a person grinding bone to make jewellery, hunched over. I’d just like to know why you deemed this photo appropriate. Thanks

Good question! They asked us not to take photos on the streets because those people had not consented to being photographed. I had a guide though, and he took us to several local businesses that were operating as social enterprises, hiring locals with fair wages, and they were very keen to have us photograph and tell their story. The identifiable people in every photo in this post are related in some way to my guide and gave permission or I would have never published them. They were eager to have their stories told more widely, and this shop in particular in the photo you mention is one that hires people from the slums to make jewelry that is sold in the tourist shops elsewhere in the city.

I have always felt that slum tourism isn’t right, it has always seemed like a zoo-like experience to me. People seem to think it is OK to go and gawk at the poor and marvel at their lives but ignore the poor and homeless in their own countries. It is weird to me. In countries like South Africa where there is so much corruption, I wonder if any of the money paid makes it to the people of the townships. Thanks for sharing your experience.

I tend to agree that the gawking angle to it all makes it tough to swallow. There is often great need at home, and yet I can see the point that if the money is going into local businesses then there is good. It’s a tricky subject because there are local operators working within the communities and investing the money back into lifting the level of poverty, and yet the intentions of the tourists visiting don’t seem to play well with that idea of helping. Thanks for weighing in on this, there is just no easy answer.

It’s interesting how poverty tourism is becoming a trend. I have enjoyed solo walks through the poverty areas and met terrific people who were thrilled to meet someone who cared enough to visit where they live and chat with them. There’s not much anyone can do by themselves but as a community, we certainly can help raise awareness and create movement for better living conditions. It’s not advisable to do solo walks but certainly worth it if you know someone who is an integral part of the community and willing to guide you in exchange for support instead of profit. Good for you to step out of your comfort zone.

Thanks for weighing in on this Mark. As you noted, I found it very interesting to see that side of the tourism industry, and even more so I took away a new perspective on Nairobi and Cape Town from those visits. I think it’s important to make sure that you have a solid perspective on why you are visiting, and a local guide does help ground the experience.

Slum tourism. Wow. First time I heard about that. On the contrary here in the Philippines what they do is mask slum areas from the tourist’s eye by literally blocking the view, like constructing a huge billboard in front of the slum area. From an outsider you can’t see the wide gap of the rich and poor behind those boards. Officials call this as “beautification of the city.”

Both seem like poor solutions to the issue — Mumbai has attempted to mask it some as well since it’s the first thing you see leaving the airport, but the city is now realizing there is big money in walking tourists through the slums.

Correct. Just band-aid solution by the government. And the poor remains marginalized.

I volunteer for Smokey Tours in Manila. We offer a slum tour as well. In the beginning I was also sceptical, but In think slum tourism can really help the people there, when well organized. We train local people to be the tour leaders, and the profit of our Smokey Mountain tour goes to an organisation who helps the people with education, medical missions and food programs. Hope you can join the tour one day Echo, and I’m curious what you will think! We hope to show tourists AND Filipinos the other side of Manila (in this case the one behind the billboards). Channel 7, IWitness had a topic about it ;last week; Black Manila. http://www.smokeytours.com

Thanks for including the link to the company in Manila, I would be keen to visit one day and learn more about what Smokey Tours is doing. For the slum tourism, it really goes both ways for me — I do see the value, truly, in connecting toursim into regions; I think it comes down to the organization running the tours that makes a difference.

I would love to experience it first hand, I am curious about it! I’m actually from Tondo. I also have volunteered before, like feeding programs and community outreach in Baseco area and the “ulingan”. I would love to visit again in the near future.

Always love hearing about your travels, Shannon. I was interested to read what you thought about slum tourism, as I’ve had the same reservations. I still think I’ill eventually have to go on a tour to solidify my opinion, but I enjoyed reading your perspective. Enjoy your first safari!!

Thanks Susan, I think with the right company you can do the tour and at least have some sort of net positive impact. Safari was so excellent! Heaps of animals. :)

Wow this is a really intense article with some great points. It is interesting how globalization can connect us to people, like the taxi driver, but can also falsify our true identities as nations. How can we improve transparency across nations to further communicate complex transnational issues??

A good point and a question I don’t think we have found an answer for yet. Thanks for weighing in, it can be so tough to travel to these regions and know what is the best course of interaction.

Where is a place where you have seen the most health interaction between tourism and locals?? I am curious since you talk a lot about poverty tourism in your article.

That’s a tough question, mostly I see how tourism breaks a place (Nepal) but I hear that Rwanda has a wonderful model in place, so I will keep you posted.

Hi – a stranger from your blogging past and I’m really sorry not to have caught up with you in Cape Town (yip – its my home now!) I understand the poverty tourism conundrum – and its one of the reasons I haven’t taken a township tour in my own country. I also don’t know what to do when I see people living their normal lives, but being gawked at by tourists (and I’m guilty of it myself). I love watching people and seeing how they live, but they are not animals in a zoo. I wish I knew what the answer was. Tourism is very important in many different countries around the world, but its important that the locals are not gawked at. In some respects South Africa is a great place for westerners because you’re not immediately identified as a tourist – but there is still the rest of the world….

Many more places to visit in Africa. Enjoy your trip Kim

So sorry to have missed you Kim, would have been great to meet up for coffee. Like you, I love people watching and it’s hard to spot the difference sometimes between the healthy curiosity of watching people and trying to either enjoy the culture or learn more, and the more zoo-like experience of a tour meant to showcase residents. Thanks for weighing in on this, and perhaps I can catch you next time pass through CT! :)

It’s my utopian dream for all the world and all the people to get together and decide … Let’s all pool our riches and share with those with nothing. Africa. A beautiful country sadly wanting of a decent life.

Well said Hamish, there is much need in the world and wealth and resources to go around. Safe travels.

Hi Shannon, I just want to let you know how amazing I think you, your website, your resources, your photography (basically everything you do) is. Really inspiring. I admire your honesty and I too relate with the highs and the lows that occur during travel. My lows often occur within the first few days (wondering what on earth I’m doing and often consider leaving…) and Africa was a whole new challenge for myself. Nothing lasts forever and once the low passes I am more than content I stuck with it (and often don’t want to leave). I am beginning to plan my travels with hopes of being able to travel and support myself too (hopefully with something online). Your site is priceless for information and I cannot thank-you enough. Thank-you for all you do and I wish you all the best for your travels and future goals.

Thank you Becky, I am so glad to are that the blog has resonated with you, it’s been a labor of love these part years! Africa had been hard, but ultimately rewarding too as I figure out how to navigate the intricacies of the country. I so appreciate your support, let me know if there I ever anything I can do to help! :)

Thanks again Shannon – I have to stop reading your website and all your amazing articles or I’m never going to start traveling. ;) Starting with a career break and want to start traveling/volunteering with hopes that inspiration and further direction will come to me. Definitely want to do something with travel, cultures and humanitarian work in my life – currently my biggest challenge is in choosing a starting destination (once I start traveling I know inspiration, writing, ideas will come). Now to read more of your articles and spend more time on your Grass Roots Volunteering Site… :) Sending good energy to you in Africa

Thanks for the good energy! As for picking a starting place, don’t let that decision be the one that holds you back. You can go easy, like starting at a regional hub city (Bangkok, Bogata, etc) or pick a place you have long dreamed of seeing and start with that. Either way, you are right, once you are out there other ideas and inspiration will come. :)

Anytime :) I find your comments really helpful and I do just need to pick a starting point and then go (otherwise I’ll be looking and waiting for the “perfect” plan/route and will never get anywhere). Will let you know where I begin with hopefully an online presence too (a blog/website. Something else I just need to begin). Thanks again for the motivation and for putting things in perspective.

I think it’s one of those things that you don’t know for yourself until you try it for yourself and as what you did, sometimes it needs to be done more than once to somewhat comprehend for yourself.

Have fun on safari. Go up in the hot air balloon if you get the chance..

ps Love the word discombobulated!

Thanks Jimmy! I am glad that I went, as you said, you have to go to form a perspective — I just hesitate to recommend it widely because of the potential negative impact of this type of toursim at a large scale. A tough moral issues.

I didn’t get to make it up on the balloon :( But it was still amazing and I hope to share photos this week!

Yes, it is difficult to figure out wether or not to visit places such as these. One one hand, as you pointed out, there is the human zoo aspect of it. On the other hand, how can anyone help if no one knows about it.

Personally I am a bit tired of seeing, like the people obviously here are, NGOs and other organizations that try to impose a solution on these people. It is usually wasted. I am very tired of seeing “NGOs” win an agenda that involves someone changing their religion before the organization will help. Aid is always so complicated.

Such a complicated area, and that is one of the things I like about the tours to some extent — it gives you a chance to infuse money directly in the local businesses and initiatives that are designed by the locals, not foreign NGOs. Tough one to call, I appreciate your perspective on this!

Shannon. So true about slum tourism. On one side it is important. We, as travelers, should be paying close attention to all of the things a country is. If we can help, so be it. And I believe that no one wants to feel like they are being photographed like they are in a zoo, rich or poor. Great post!

Thanks Corinne! It’s so important to see the different sides of a place, and in South Africa in particular the townships are such an important part of the country’s history, which makes it valuable but tough to recommend at a large level. Thanks for weighing in on this!

This post has a lot of heart, Shannon. And it’s thought-provoking. I’m aware of slum tours and, like many people, have really mixed feelings about it. The objectification side of it is tough to swallow, but on the other hand, if the money goes toward helping the people, it could be a good thing after all.

Thank you Dela, it really hard to find the balance in the situation — I am a proponent of infusing tourism dollars into communities at the local level, but my hesitation comes when that action may jeopardize their right to dignity… Thanks for sharing your perspective, I appreciate you weighing in here.

I definitely have mixed feelings about this having grown up in Africa. I think witnessing poverty is powerful and people traveling in these countries and not going into the compounds are defintely missing something, but at the same time its very unsettling to think of people paying for a tour of poverty or taking pictures like people are wildlife. I’ve always hated people taking pictures of themselves holding an african child and posting it all over the internet, probably without ever asking permission of that child’s parents. I think the idea of going in with a respectable group and not just taking picutes like another safari but being educated makes the thing seem more legit.

Agreed, witnessing the poverty is a powerful motivator for change, for motivating outsiders to care and take up a consciousness about the lives of people outside their home culture — but it’s just so hard to find the balance because it lies in the approach the tourist is taking, their mindset. The tour operator can only do so much if the tourists only go and see pity and the differences in their lives. A tough subject, and I agree though, I am not throwing the baby out with the bathwater and on my resources page I plan to list out a few of the more respectable tour companies I have found for the tours just in case it’s something someone wants to experience.

I just Googled “God Grew Tired Of Us” and now it is my mission in life to watch that film! :)

It is so worth watching! I found it incredibly moving and their really had a lot to think about after seeing their perspective and journey. Let me know what you think when you find it! :)

As usual, a fantastic post Shannon. Even here on a small Caribbean island, I hear islanders complaining about cruise ship tourists being driven around in huge vans and take photos of the locals standing on the side of the road waiting for a bus…a few of them have taken to screaming “you’re not at the zoo!!” at them, which I can certainly understand. It’s a delicate balance.

I love that you saw God Grew Tired of us…I saw that a few years ago as well and found it really moving. Totally broke down when the guy said that he thought God had grew tired of them asking and asking for help, and the other guy working like 3 full time jobs just to keep his shitty apartment. I reference that film often when I have locals here telling me how if they could just get to the States, they’d be rich and happy :)

With the cruise ship dynamic I can imagine that it adds a whole other dynamic to the situation because the many of people on those tours are approaching travel from an entirely different perspective than backpackers or overlanders. It’s a shame that there aren’t yet better ways to form the interactions of cruise ship tourists with the places they visit.

I cried too, when they just keep persevering despite being lonely and having no community, the spirit they keep alive for the sake of their families back home — that’s a resiliency that really struck a chord with me. Like you, I found myself referencing the film when the Kenyans tell me how rosy life would be stateside. Thanks for sharing your perspective on this from Honduras.

We did not tour a township when we were there, I felt very uncomfortable about the zoo aspect of it. The poverty is just horrible, and what can anyone really say about it? We did a Massai Village in Tanzania and it was a worthless thing to do, it was completely commercialized.

Sorry that the Maasi village didn’t work out — the people on my safari wanted to do one as well )(probably the same one you did) and I agree — not a very good window into the culture. Later this month I am checking out a cultural project in Kenya with the Maasai that I have high hopes for — it looks like it honors the culture of the Maasai while still allowing visitors to experience it in an authentic way ( http://majimotomaasaicamp.com/ ) I’ll be reporting back on it, but it looks intriguing.

I will look forward to hearing about it.

Sharon, if you’re still in Kenya and looking for grassroots projects, be sureto ccheck out kiberastas, a soccer club made up of slum residents slowly making its rise up the Kenyan soccer charts.

I think the best way to support areas like these is to visit with such positive grassroots projects, where residents are able to showcase their dreams, talents, and skills

Thank you for the rec Carol — I will be back in Nairobi in late April so I will get in touch with them. I agree that this project sounds like a wonderful lens through which to see the area and the journey of the people within Kibera — I look forward to finding out more about it.

The point you make about slum tourism is an interesting one as it is such a moral grey area and I find myself becoming more cynical about the concept. Originally, the motives, I’m sure, were well meaning but I feel more and more it’s just there to feed our curiosity without actually doing any good. Admittedly, I have volunteered in a favela where I was of no use and a naive do-gooder but I now realise that just because I want to help doesn’t mean it’s the right thing to do. I’d be interested to see what you make of it later on in your trip.

Exactly, I find it hard to justify the tourism on a large scale because of the motivations of the tourists, their reason for being there. On a level where it’s a meeting of cultures, that’s one thing, but as it becomes an industry, there are just too many tour operators who will skip the positive side of in in lieu of profits… such a tough one to call, I’ll think on this more and reflect at the end of my time in Africa perhaps. Thanks for sharing your perspective Naomi.

I’m so enjoying following your adventures through Africa. I was in Swaziland for 3 months last year, so it really brings me back. I appreciate your thoughts on poverty tourism – I also find myself straddling the moral grounds of that issue and international aid work in general.

Also, your photos are spectacular! Can’t wait for images from the safari!

Thank you Riana! Back from the safari and it was incredible — photos coming soon! The poverty issue is so tough, some people in the comments and via social media brought up some great points countering my argument, but at the end of the day, it remains a grey area.

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Poverty Safari: Understanding the Anger of Britain’s Underclass by Darren McGarvey – review

A moving plea for a better and fairer society

T his passionate polemic on the causes of poverty by the Scottish rapper and social commentator known as Loki won this year’s Orwell prize . It is also a memoir of growing up in Pollok,Glasgow, where McGarvey was “well adjusted to the threat of violence”.

Throughout his life he has struggled with drug dependency as well as the emotional and psychological scars of his dysfunctional upbringing: “Poverty is a quicksand that consumes us despite our best efforts to escape its pull.”

Angry and eloquent in equal measure, he argues that poverty has become a political football. He describes himself as a “leftie”, but has little time for politicians or well-meaning and well-paid representatives of the “poverty industry”.

No fan of identity politics either, he argues that intersectionality undermines the creation of “a well-organised, educated and unified working class”. He believes poverty will not be solved until the gulf between the classes is bridged. Written with honesty and wisdom, this is a heartfelt plea for a fairer and more caring society.

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Beyond Barriers: the world's first luxury wheelchair-accessible safari

By Sophie Morgan

Defining disability has long been a contentious and polarising endeavour. For some, the word carries a heavy burden; for others, it's a source of pride. Each person's relationship with the label will be as complex, personal and nuanced as their impairments themselves.

There is no single definition, no one size fits all, but in recent years our community has agreed to move away from the medical model of defining disability and towards the social model. This new way of looking at the term outlines that disability is created by society and the environments in which we live – not by our individual impairments. Disabled people face barriers that stop us from participating in society the same way as non-disabled people. So, instead of wanting to fix us and remove our disabilities, the social model instead stipulates that we fix the barriers themselves.

When Patrick Suverein became dependent on a wheelchair due to back complications in 2017, I doubt he had any awareness of the quandaries surrounding these ever-evolving ways of thinking. Regardless, when he temporarily became disabled, his world – namely, a 2000-hectare private game reserve in Klaserie National Park, South Africa – became inaccessible. This left him and his indomitable partner Elly to ask the very question so many wheelchair users before them had grappled with, too: “how do you do a safari in a wheelchair?”

A pragmatic problem solver, Patrick began unknowingly applying the principles of the social model to the game reserve, setting about adapting the world around him to meet his needs. It was initially for his own benefit, but soon it occurred to him and Elly that others with similar mobility impairments could benefit too. Ximuwu Lodge (pronounced Shi-mu-wu) was born, a five-star accessible lodge open to the ambulatory and non-ambulatory public. Like all things forged out of urgency, pressure and necessity, it is a precious gem just waiting to be unearthed.

Situated inside of the Greater Kruger National Park, Ximuwu is easily reached either by a short flight to Hoedspruit Airport or a six-hour drive from Johannesburg , a detail Elly explained they had considered closely. Many safaris sell themselves on remoteness, but that's a quality they deliberately replaced in favour of convenience. Besides, Elly and Patrick have other more inclusive boxes to tick, the first of which greets me on arrival: wheelchair-accessible transfers. Agasp, I watch on as Matt Porter, the head guide and safari manager, slides open the door of a brand-new adapted green land cruiser, wrapped in Ximumu branding of a wheelchair-using lion. He lowers an adjustable swivel seat to my height for me to self-transfer onto.

If this were to be the first sighting of the accessible big five at Ximuwu, the second would be the portable pool hoist, waiting beside the infinity pool . A rare sighting indeed. This was followed quickly by an array of shower seats, commode chairs, grab rails, and – I could hardly believe my eyes – an adjustable bed in one of the two accessible suites. Once again, something rarely found in a hotel, and further proof of the attention to accessibility detail at Ximuwu. Just when I thought it couldn't get any better, Patrick points to the safari Land Cruiser and an extendable seat that's waiting for me, hovering over a concrete ramp like a dragonfly over water. It's time for a safari.

Adam Turner

CNT Editors

Rachel Everett

As we drive into the African bush to search for the actual Big Five, dust swirling in the dusk, Matt and the eagle-eyed tracker Frank Mkhabela point out pawprints and clues we follow for the next few hours till the sun begins to set. The traditional obligatory sundowner calls us to a halt. Sipping on a G&T, I gaze out at this unspoilt and entirely private resort that stretches as far as the eyes can see.

The typical timetable of safari dictates our movements for the next four days. Early starts to catch the game before the heat of the day and evening drives to find them as the shadows creep in and the hunts begin. Hot water bottles, blankets and biltong bush snacks are packed along with the binoculars and night vision goggles so that no stone goes unturned. A herd of elephants a whisker away from the jeep sends adrenaline coursing through me.

When the sun is at its zenith, a lunch spread of Nobu-inspired salmon teriyaki awaits, after which a hoist lowers me down into the pool to float like a contented hippo. The lodge overlooks a vast plain, so even when you aren't on safari, there's always a chance of spotting something. If you are lucky, positioned at the right time in the hide (accessible via wheelchair ramp), you can get as close to nature as is feasibly safe. One afternoon, after a generous helping of homemade raspberry sorbet, a loan giraffe lollops into view and takes his lunch in front of us.

Not wanting to waste a moment, a quick nap can be combined with a deep tissue massage at the spa and Elly (equipped not only with her pilot's licence but also hairdresser credentials) offers me a wash and blow dry. Her hospitality is matched by her team, fronted by Anette Porter, all of whom are fully disability-aware and know exactly when to help and when not to.

The borders between the Klaserie Reserve and Kruger National Park are unfenced, allowing animals to move freely around both reserves. In total, I checked off over twenty-five sightings, from hyenas, leopards, rhinos, lions and giraffes to vultures, bush babies, warthogs and more. The space is teaming with life, but the reserve itself is deserving of equal praise, sightings or otherwise.

One early morning, Elly and Patrick arrange for a helicopter ride. Matt offers to lift me into the passenger seat, and off I soar into the sunrise, a herd of dehorned rhinos to our left and buffaloe to our right. As the African sun peaks over the horizon and we wait in the sky to welcome in the new day, I find myself wondering how on earth I will ever get over this place.

Patrick is living proof that disability can happen to anyone at any time; it is not a niche existence; it's part of the circle of life. Thankfully his experience changed not only his own world but all of our experiences for the better and in Ximuwu, a silver-lining accessible safari awaits.

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This Wheelchair-Accessible Safari in South Africa Should Be the Future of Adventure Travel

By Sophie Morgan

Defining disability has long been a contentious and polarizing endeavor. For some, the word carries a heavy burden; for others, it's a source of pride. Each person's relationship with the label is as complex, personal, and nuanced as their impairments themselves. There is no single definition, no one size fits all.

But in recent years, our community has agreed to move away from the medical model of defining disability and towards the social model . This new way of looking at the term considers disability as something created by society and the environments in which we live, not by our individual impairments. Disabled people face barriers that stop us from participating in society the same way as non-disabled people. So, instead of wanting to fix us and remove our disabilities, the social model instead stipulates that we fix the barriers themselves.

Ximuwu: Luxury Klaserie Lodge, South Africa

When Patrick Suverein became temporarily dependent on a wheelchair due to back complications in 2017, his world — namely, a 2000-hectare private game reserve in Klaserie National Park, South Africa — became inaccessible to him. He and his indomitable partner Elly then had to ask the very question so many wheelchair users before them had grappled with: “How do you do a safari in a wheelchair?”

A pragmatic problem solver, Patrick began to adapt the game reserve to meet his needs. It was initially for his own benefit, but soon it occurred to him and Elly that others with similar mobility impairments could benefit too. Ximuwu Lodge (pronounced Shi-mu-wu) was born: a five-star lodge and wheelchair accessible safari open to the ambulatory and non-ambulatory public. Like all things forged out of urgency, pressure, and necessity, it is a precious gem just waiting to be unearthed.

Situated inside of the Greater Kruger National Park, Ximuwu is easily reached either by a short flight to Hoedspruit Airport or a six-hour drive from Johannesburg , a detail Elly explained they had considered closely. Many safaris sell themselves on remoteness, but that's a quality they deliberately replaced in favor of convenience. Besides, Elly and Patrick have other more inclusive boxes to tick, the first of which greets me on arrival: wheelchair-accessible transfers. Agasp, I watch on as Matt Porter, the head guide and safari manager, slides open the door of a brand-new adapted green Land Cruiser, wrapped in Ximumu branding that depicts a wheelchair-using lion. He lowers an adjustable swivel seat to my height for me to self-transfer onto.

If this were to be the first sighting of the accessible big five at Ximuwu, the second would be the portable pool hoist, waiting beside the infinity pool. A rare sighting indeed. This was followed quickly by an array of shower seats, commode chairs, grab rails, and — I could hardly believe my eyes — an adjustable bed in one of the two accessible suites. Once again, this is something rarely found in a hotel, and further proof of the attention to accessibility detail at Ximuwu. Just when I thought it couldn't get any better, Patrick points to the safari Land Cruiser and an extendable seat that's waiting for me, hovering over a concrete ramp like a dragonfly over water. It's time for a safari.

As we drive into the African bush to search for the actual Big Five, dust swirling in the dusk, Matt and the eagle-eyed tracker Frank Mkhabela point out pawprints and clues that we follow for the next few hours until the sun begins to set. The traditional sundowner calls us to a halt. Sipping on a G&T, I gaze out at this unspoiled and entirely private resort that stretches as far as the eyes can see.

Steph Koyfman

Alex Erdekian

Laura Walsh

Jamie Spain

The typical timetable of safari dictates our movements for the next four days. Early starts to catch the game before the heat of the day, and evening drives to find them as the shadows creep in and the hunts begin. Hot water bottles, blankets, and biltong bush snacks are packed along with the binoculars and night vision goggles so that no stone goes unturned. A herd of elephants a whisker away from the jeep sends adrenaline coursing through me.

When the sun is at its zenith, a lunch spread of Nobu -inspired salmon teriyaki awaits, after which a hoist lowers me down into the pool to float like a contented hippo. The lodge overlooks a vast plain, so even when you aren't on safari, there's always a chance of spotting something. If you are lucky, and positioned at the right time in the hide (accessible via wheelchair ramp), you can get as close to nature as is feasibly safe. One afternoon, after a generous helping of homemade raspberry sorbet, a lone giraffe gallops into view and takes his lunch in front of us.

No need to waste a moment: a quick nap can be combined with a deep tissue massage at the spa; Elly — equipped not only with her pilot's license but also hairdresser credentials — offers me a wash and blow dry. Her hospitality is matched by her team, fronted by Anette Porter, all of whom are fully disability-aware and know exactly when to help and when not to.

The borders between the Klaserie Private Nature Reserve and Kruger National Park are unfenced, allowing animals to move freely around both reserves. In total, I checked off over twenty-five sightings: from hyenas, leopards, rhinos, lions, and giraffes to vultures, bush babies, warthogs, and more. The space is teaming with life, but the reserve itself is deserving of equal praise, sightings or otherwise.

One early morning, Elly and Patrick arrange for a helicopter ride. Matt offers to lift me into the passenger seat, and off I soar into the sunrise, a herd of dehorned rhinos to our left and buffalos to our right. As the African sun peaks over the horizon and we wait in the sky to welcome in the new day, I find myself wondering how on earth I will ever get over this place.

Patrick is living proof that disability can happen to anyone at any time. It is not a niche existence; it's part of the circle of life. Thankfully, his experience changed not only his own world, but all of our experiences for the better — and in Ximuwu, a wheelchair accessible safari awaits.

A version of this article originally appeared in Condé Nast Traveller UK .

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Home » Europe » Moscow

5 AMAZING Neighborhoods and Areas in Moscow (2024)

Russia’s capital Moscow is known for a number of things; history, culture, nightlife, and crazy architecture.

But with over 100 distinct neighborhoods spread amongst 12 main districts, figuring out where to stay in Moscow can be a bit tricky. While Moscow does have an extensive public transport system, it’s best to stay in an area of Moscow that suits your interests.

This guide will break down the five best neighbourhoods to stay in Moscow, as well as the top things to do in each. That way, you’ll be able to find somewhere that suits your travel style and budget.

Top 3 Recommendations for Where to Stay in Moscow

Moscow neighborhood guide – places to stay in moscow, 5 best neighborhoods to stay in moscow, faq about finding a place to stay in moscow, what to pack for moscow, don’t forget travel insurance for moscow, final thoughts on where to stay in moscow.

Looking for a specific place to stay? These are our highest recommendations for places to stay in Moscow.

For more information on hostels, check out our post:  best hostels in Moscow .

Loft 3 Vokzala | Best Airbnb in Moscow

This stunning Airbnb in Moscow is ideal for groups or families. The apartment has been recently renovated and is bright contemporary. Guests can enjoy a full kitchen and internet access, and free parking and a gym are available on-site. The bedroom is a bit cosy, but you’ll have everything you need for a comfortable stay.

Loft Hotel H11 | Best Hotel in Moscow

Loft Hotel H11 is the coolest hotel in Moscow. Conveniently located on the borders of Basmanny and Kitay-Gorod, this hotel is a short walk Moscow’s major attractions as well as several metro stations.

Godzillas Hostel | Best Hostel in Moscow

Godzillas is Moscow’s largest and most famous hostel. In the heart of Tverskoy, this three-story hostel is a short walk from the city’s major sights and attractions. With comfortable beds and modern amenities, you won’t find a better hostel in the city.

Godzillas Hostel is one of our favourites in Moscow but they’re not taking guests right now. We’re not sure if they’re closed for good but we hope they’ll come back soon.

Kitay-Gorod

Kitay-Gorod is the neighbourhood at the heart of Moscow. Home to the city’s most famous attractions, Kitay-Gorod is the place to stay on your first visit to Moscow.

Travelling on a budget is difficult, but not impossible in Moscow. The best place to stay to get the most value for your money in the Presnensky neighbourhood.

North of Kitay-Gorod is the hip, trendy and lively neighbourhood of Trverskoy. This centrally located neighbourhood is not only home to a number of amazing attractions, but it is within walking distance to the city’s main landmarks.

Arbat/Khamovniki

The neighbouring districts of Arbat and Khamovniki are one of the best places to stay in Moscow for trendiness. Home to luxury shops, unique boutiques, and outstanding museums, Arbat/Khamovniki are where bohemian flare and modern creativity meet.

If you’re travelling with children, Basmanny is the best place to stay in Moscow. A calm oasis in the heart of the city, Basmanny is a neighbourhood known for its relaxed atmosphere, clean streets, and lush surrounding scenery.

Moscow is an impressive city, to say the least. Covering more than 2,500 square kilometres, Moscow is the home to nearly 12 million people.

Thanks to its rich and complex history, thousands of travellers flock to Moscow each year. From iconic sights and unique Russian fare to its vivid nightlife or cultural attractions, there’s so much to see and do in Russia’s capital.

The oldest section outside of the Kremlin, Kitay-Gorod is located at the heart of the city. Red Square and St. Basil’s Cathedral are located within walking distance of this neighborhood. It’s one of the best places to stay for getting to know the area, making it our top pick for first-time visitors.

If you’re traveling on a budget , Presnensky is an affordable and convenient location to stay in. Close to Moscow Zoo and within walking distance to other attractions, accommodation here is generally cheaper than other areas.

Tverskoy is home to Moscow’s best nightlife scene. It’s a luxurious and trendy neighborhood, home to clubs, bars, and world-class restaurants.

Arbat is a very hip district, and one of the coolest places to stay in Moscow. The area attracts many young professionals, and is full of trendy cafes and rustic restaurants.

Basmanny sits in the east of the city. With its laidback atmosphere, Basmanny is a great place to experience the slower side of Moscow life. It’s our top pick for families visiting Moscow, as it’s a peaceful base from which to explore the city.

Still not sure where to stay in Moscow? Don’t worry, we’ve got you covered! Read on for a more detailed breakdown of each area.

Each of Moscow’s neighborhoods offers something special to visitors. Whether you’re looking for an all-night party or to immerse yourself in the city’s dynamic history, there’s a neighborhood that will cater to you.

1. Kitay-Gorod – Where to Stay in Moscow for your First Time

Kitay-Gorod lies at the heart of Moscow. Home to the city’s most famous attractions, staying here is the best way to discover the city. It’s walking distance from many major attractions, including Red Square, the Kremlin and St. Basil’s Church.

The area is also home to impressive architectural masterpieces, an exotic restaurant scene, and fascinating museums. Whether you’re interested in the arts, architecture, or seeing the sights, there’s something for everyone in Kitay-Gorod.

Entire Flat in Kitay-Gorod | Best Airbnb in Kitay-Gorod

This modern flat in a central location is ideal for couples visiting Moscow for the first time. Guests can enjoy the full kitchen, laundry facilities and free Wifi. The location is ideal, as the Airbnb is within walking distance of shops, cafes, and cultural attractions.

Kremlin Lights | Best Hostel in Kitay-Gorod

Despite sitting in the heart of Moscow, dorm rooms in this hostel are pretty affordable. The hostel comes with a fully equipped kitchen, and is within walking distance of shops and restaurants. The location is also hard to beat, as the Kremlin is less than 200 metres away.

Hotel Maroseyka 2/15 | Best Hotel in Kitay-Gorod

This three-star hotel is one of the best places to stay in Moscow for the first time, thanks to its central location and affordable rates. While it’s not as cheap as a hostel, the hotel offers an airport shuttle, laundry facilities, Wifi, ensuite bathrooms and a TV. The Kremlin and Saint Basil’s Cathedral are within walking distance, and shops and restaurants are right next door.

Top Things to do in Kitay-Gorod:

• Walk through the iconic, impressive and imposing Red Square.
• Explore Moscow’s Kremlin, the epicentre of Russia’s political power and fortified complex in the centre of the city.
• Marvel at a myriad of Russian treasures, imperial arms, jewellery and more at the Armoury.
• See the iconic St. Basil’s Cathedral, with its colourful spires and patterned façade.
• Line up at the western corner of Red Square to enter Lenin’s Mausoleum, where you can see the embalmed body of Soviet Russia’s infamous leader.
• Visit Grand Kremlin Palace, the official residence of the Russian president.
• Climb 137-steps to the top of the Ivan the Great Bell Tower, and take in one of a kind views of Moscow.
• Visit the Moscow GUM Department Store, a lively shopping mall with hundreds of shops and restaurants.

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2. Presnensky – Where to Stay in Moscow on a Budget

Budget travel can be difficult, but definitely isn’t impossible in Moscow. Located on the north side of Boulevard Ring, Presnensky (or Presnya) is home to numerous attractions, restaurants and top literary sites.

With affordable hotels, hip nightlife and impressive architecture, Presnensky has a lot to do for even the tightest of budgets.

Bright and Cosy Studio | Best Airbnb in Presnensky

This modern studio sleeps two guests, and is perfect for couples or solo travelers visiting Moscow on a budget. You’ll have all the comforts of home including a full kitchen and Wifi. The studio is steps away from the famous 1905 Street, and there are numerous bars and restaurants in the area. If you want to travel further afield, the metro is within easy walking distance.

Boutique Hotel on Mukomolniy | Best Hotel in Presnensky

Rooms in this boutique hotel can sleep up to three guests and come with free Wifi. The hotel also provides a very affordable breakfast each morning, so you can eat well without breaking the budget. Public transport is a short-walk away, so you can make the most of the city at a fraction of the price of other hotels.

High Level Moscow | Best Hostel in Presnensky

High Level is the first hostel in Moscow to be set in a skyscraper! Sitting 171m above ground level, you’ll be sure to get incredible views of the city from every window. The building is set in the commercial district, so you’ll have plenty of shops nearby. It’s also close to public transport, so the best things in Moscow are within easy reach.

High Level Moscow is one of our favourites in Moscow but they’re not taking guests right now. We’re not sure if they’re closed for good but we hope they’ll come back soon.

Top Things to do in Presnensky:

• Enjoy a traditional Russian meal of blinchiki, caviar, and vodka at the iconic Café Pushkin.
• Spend an afternoon learning about space, the stars and beyond at the Moscow Planetarium, one of the city’s most popular museums.
• Sit back and relax in Patriarch’s Pond, a favourite haunt of Moscovites of all-ages.
• See the stunning works of Russia’s impressionist artists at the city’s newest museum, the Museum of Russian impressionism, located in a former Bolshevik chocolate factory sugar silo.
• Explore the remarkable Gorky’s House (Ryabushinsky Mansion, the art nouveau mansion of famed writer Maxim Gorky.
• Marvel at the immense Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, the largest Catholic Church in Russia.

3. Tverskoy – Where to Stay in Moscow for Nightlife

North of Kitay-Gorod is the hip, trendy and lively neighborhood of Trverskoy. This centrally located neighborhood is not only home to a number of amazing attractions, but it is also within walking distance to the city’s main landmarks.

Home to luxury boutique and upscale restaurants, Tverskoy is a neighborhood where history and elegance mesh seamlessly with modern amenities and opulence. If hitting the town is a key aspect of your Moscow itinerary, then Tverskoy is the place to be.

Studio Apartment Mayakovskaya | Best Airbnb in Tverskoy

This apartment can accommodate up to four guests, and sits close to shops and restaurants. The Airbnb comes with a full kitchen and all the comforts of home including Wifi, a TV, and laundry facilities. It’s right by the metro, so all of Moscow’s best bars and nightlife are within easy reach.

ARIUM Hotel | Best Hotel in Tverskoy

ARIUM Hotel is a great choice for travellers interested in culture and fun. The hotel is central to Moscow’s nightlife scene, located just minutes away from all of the city’s hottest clubs.

Godzillas Hostel | Best Hostel in Tverskoy

Godzillas is the largest and best hostel in Moscow , and for good reason. Situated in the heart of Tverskoy, this three-story hostel is a short walk from the city’s major sights and attractions. With comfortable beds and modern amenities, you’ll have everything you need for an awesome stay.

Top Things to do Tverskoy:

• Enjoy cheap beer, table games, and Russian techno tunes at Gogol, one of Moscow’s oldest and most popular clubs.
• Night Flight is a world renowned venue. It’s expensive af, however if you can afford to head on over then it’s absolutely worth it.
• Spend an evening enjoying the ballet or an opera at the Bolshoi Theatre : the heart and soul of Moscow’s arts and culture scene.
• Enjoy art, festivals, food and fun at Hermitage Park, a charming garden and one of the most popular and trendiest places in the city.
• Visit VDNKh, a Stalinesque theme park featuring gilded statues, grandiose pavilions, and thrilling rides.
• See an impressive collection of 20th-century paintings, sculptures and other works of art by famous Russian and foreign artists at the Moscow Museum of Modern Art.
• Enjoy luxury boutiques and upscale restaurants as you walk along the lively and grand Tverskaya Street.

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4. Arbat- The Coolest Place to Stay in Moscow

Home to luxury shops, unique boutiques, and outstanding museums, Arbat is where bohemian flare and modern creativity meet.

Moscow’s former warehouse and factory district, Arbat now attracts numerous Moscow elites. From advertising to tech execs, young professionals flock to Arbat to enjoy its world-class restaurants, stylish bars and irresistible cafes.

Perfect City View Apartment | Best Airbnb in Arbat

Stylish, spacious, modern and conveniently located, there’s no better Airbnb in Arbat. Close to a myriad of restaurants and the Moscow metro, you’ll feel at home in this apartment in the heart of Arbat.

Hotel Grafskiy | Best Hotel in Arbat/Khamovniki

Modern amenities and an unbeatable location make Hotel Grafskiy the best hotel in Arbat. A 10-minute walk to the city centre, Hotel Grafskiy is close to restaurants, bars and attractions. You’re guaranteed a comfortable and relaxing stay at Hotel Grafskiy.

Jedi Hostel | Best Hostel in Arbat/Khamovniki

With incredible views and an amazing location, Jedi Hostel is the best place to stay in Arbat. Enjoy comfortable and private capsule-like rooms at this clean and safe hostel. The hotel is less than 20-minutes away from the city centre, and is close to metro stations and grocery stores.

Jedi Hostel is one of our favourites in Moscow but they’re not taking guests right now. We’re not sure if they’re closed for good but we hope they’ll come back soon.

Top Things to do in Arbat:

• See priceless works of art at the Pushkin Museum of Fine Art, Moscow’s premier foreign-art museum.
• Enjoy some of the best seafood in the city at Rico one of Arbat’s best-kept secrets.
• Be amazed by the magnitude and magnificence of the historic and ostentatious Cathedral of Christ the Saviour .
• Immerse yourself in history at Park Pobedy, a green space filled with fountains, monuments and statues commemorating the sacrifices and triumphs of war.
• Sample retro Russian fare at Varenichnaya No 1, an old-school style restaurant with delicious food and amazing prices.
• Climb to the top of the Sparrow Hills lookout and enjoy amazing views of the surrounding city and scenery.
• Take a stroll down Arbat Street, a 1-kilometre long pedestrian boulevard and enjoy all the sights, sounds and smells of this lively neighborhood.

5. Basmanny – Where to Stay in Moscow for Families

If you’re travelling with children, Basmanny is the best place to stay in Moscow. A calm oasis in the heart of the city, Basmanny is known for its relaxed atmosphere, clean streets, and lush surrounding scenery.

Well situated to the east of the city-centre, Basmanny is a short walk or subway ride to Moscow’s main attractions. Within this charming neighborhood, there’s plenty of activities for travelers of any age.

Loft Hotel H11 | Best Hotel in Basmanny

Conveniently located just over a mile from the city center, this hotel is a short walk Moscow’s major attractions and several metro stations. Enjoy a continental breakfast each morning, before heading out to enjoy all awesome things that Moscow has to offer.

Good News Hostel | Best Hostel in Basmanny

Comfortable beds, free wifi and a decent location, this hostel has it all! Good News Hostel is close to a myriad of cafes, bars, and noteworthy attractions. It even offers bike hire if you’d prefer to skip the metro and explore the city on two wheels.

Good News Hostel is one of our favourites in Moscow but they’re not taking guests right now. We’re not sure if they’re closed for good but we hope they’ll come back soon.

Top Things to do in Basmanny:

• Rent paddleboats in the summer or ice skates in the winter and enjoy Chistye Prudy, a clean, quiet and quaint pond in that runs along the Boulevard Ring.
• Step back in time and see Lubyanka, headquarters of the infamous Russian KGB.
• Hop on a bike and enjoy the crisscrossing paths through Sokolniki park, home to a manicured rose garden, cool places to eat, and an open-air swimming pool.
• Enjoy Russia’s biggest toy store, Central Children’s Store, located just west of the Basmanny neighborhood.
• Head 60m underground and explore Bunker-42 Cold War Museum, a 700 square meter museum housed in a defunct Cold War communications centre.
• Slow down and smell the roses and ornamental flowers at Aptekarsky Ogorod, Moscow’s pleasant and pretty botanical garden.

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Here’s what people usually ask us about the areas of Moscow and where to stay.

What is the best neighborhood to stay in Moscow?

Kitay-Gorod is our pick for the best neighborhood in Moscow – especially if it is your first time here. It is centrally located and full of quirky hostels like Kremlin Lights .

Which places to stay in Moscow are good for families?

Basmanny is known as an oasis within the bustling Moscow city. This makes it great for families! There are family-friendly hotels too like, Loft Hotel H11 .

Where should I stay in Moscow for nightlife?

Tverskoy is where you want to be to party! It’s full of lively bars and clubs, as well as cool hostels full of other adventurers to meet.

What are some good airbnbs in Moscow?

There are lots of cool airbnbs to stay in Moscow, but two of our favourites are this modern loft and this cosy apartment .

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Moscow is full to the brim with awesome neighborhoods and places to visit. It’s simple to travel across the city, but staying in a neighborhood that suits your travel style is the best way to make the most out of your trip.

If you’re still undecided, we recommend Godzillas Hostel for their top location and modern amenities. If you’re after a private room, check out  Loft Hotel H11 . Located centrally, you’re sure to have a comfortable stay.

• Figured out where you wanna stay? Now it’s time to pick the perfect hostel in Moscow .
• Planning out an itinerary for Moscow is a great way to maximise your time.
• Swing by our super epic backpacking packing list to prep for your trip.
• Our in-depth Eastern Europe backpacking guide will help you plan the rest of your adventure.

Alya and Campbell

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Is the recommended hotel Loft Hotel H11 close enough to the center?

Good tips, this is one of those cities where you want to be as close to the center as possible, even if it isn’t the cheapest option.

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