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12 of our favorite RV Hacks, Mods and Products
In more than ten years of rving, we have tried a lot of rv hacks, tweaks, modifications, and products to enhance our rv lifestyle experience. we're always experimenting and trying new things.
- 1 In more than ten years of RVing, we have tried a lot of RV hacks, tweaks, modifications, and products to enhance our RV Lifestyle experience. We're always experimenting and trying new things!
- 2.1 Surge Protector
- 2.2 Step Lube
- 2.3 Thetford Slide Out Rubber Seal Conditioner
- 2.4 Fresh water drain extension hack
- 2.5 Fresh water quick disconnect
- 2.6 Fresh water filter
- 2.7 Fresh water pressure regulator
- 2.8 Happy Camper Black tank deodorizer
- 2.9 Shine Armor Waterless RV wash
- 2.10 Rear ladder
- 2.11 Mega Cuff Hose and cord clamps
- 2.12 Leveling Blocks
- 3 Want to see my remote working hacks?
And folks are always asking us about them. So we thought we'd put together this report showing what we've used in the past with many of our RVs.
AND we're going to update this list (from 2020) in a special Amazon LIVE event coming up on Dec. 28th, 2023, at 3pm Eastern. And if you missed it live, no worries, you can use this same link to watch the replay!
Our Favorite RV Hacks
Surge protector.
The electric pedestals at many campgrounds are outdated and in bad shape. Bad power can damage or destroy the appliances in your RV so getting a reliable surge protector like this is critically important. We bought and use the Southwire Surge Guard, model 34930 . This unit installs between the electric pedestal at the campground and the power cord that connects to your RV. It provides protection against power surges, open ground, open neutral, Low and High voltage, overheating of the plug or receptacle, reverse polarity, miswired pedestal, and elevated ground. The unit continuously monitors for and displays voltage and Amp draw. It does an automatic reset on power restoration in the event of a blackout so everything is clean before feeding power back into your rig.
One of the most used pieces of equipment on your RV is the retractable step that you use to go in and out. Without frequent lubrication, it squeaks and can easily get stuck. A mistake many RVers make is spraying WD40 on it. Donât. WD 40 will collect road dirt and make a mess. We use a product called Kwik Lube . It is a strong, protective grease used for keeping RV steps in working condition. This lube will hold up against water and doesnât collect road grime. We lubricate out step every four to six weeks..
Thetford Slide Out Rubber Seal Conditioner
A can of this stuff costs just over $13 on Amazon but the rubber seal around RV slide outs is what keeps out water and thus, in our book, anything we can do to protect those rubber seals its pretty important. This product repels water, cleans, conditions and protects the rubber seals around our slide out. It also inhibits damage from those destructive UV rays that beat down on the slide all day long. We spray a light coat on the rubber seals twice a year.
Fresh water drain extension hack
Too many RVers leave water in their fresh water tanks for too long. That water can get real skunky and it is always best to empty it after each camping trip. But the fresh water drain on most RVs seems to never be in a convenient spot. On our Leisure Travel Van Unity model, I had to lie flat on the ground and then reach way under the coach to drain that tank. I saw the solution on the coach of an RVer named Richard McGarrity at a recent rally. So, at Holland Motorhomes in Holland, MI â the same dealer Richard used â I had them add a pipe extension to bring the drain knob out to a location I can reach without having to get down on the ground. They firmed it up with braces and fashioned a shield to protect it from anything kicked up from the road. Cost of parts and labor, about $400.
Fresh water quick disconnect
Speaking of fresh water, hereâs something we added to the fresh water hose and the intake connector on our RV â a quick disconnect. This solves the problem of having to thread and tighten the connectors by hand, something that had to be lined up just so and always seems to result in an annoying little leak. The quick disconnect takes seconds, it snaps on and off instantly and is totally leak-free. You can get them at any RV shop or Amazon.
Fresh water filter
One more must-have for fresh water â filters. We use Camco inline filters every time we hook up to a fresh water connection at a campground and whenever I fill my fresh water tank with a drinking water safe hose. They reduce bad taste, odors, chlorine, and sediment, and they also protect against bacteria growth when the filter is not in use inside a hot storage compartment. Weâve seen too many RVers connect directly to campground spigots with no filter. Thatâs just not a smart thing to do. Always use a filter. We change them out about every three months.
Fresh water pressure regulator
You need one more thing related to your fresh water hookup on the RV: A pressure regulator. Too much water pressure from a campgroundâs city water connection can blow out your plumbing lines. Putting this little screw-on connector at one end of the hose regulates water pressure flow to a safe, consistent 40â50 lbs of operational pressure. All RV shops sell these and they are available on Amazon.
Happy Camper Black tank deodorizer
Now let's talk about the black water tank. We all have experienced the odor that can come from those tanks. The most important thing to do to minimize those smells is to use enough water when you flush. And before you empty that tank at a dump station, run lots of water into the toilet. Fill it right up if you can before you empty. As for further reducing odors, we use a holding tank deodorizer called Happy Camper. Itâs all organic and comes in powder form. One scoop handles a tank up to 40 gallons.
Shine Armor Waterless RV wash
This is one of the handiest products weâve ever come across. A lot of campgrounds donât allow RVers to wash their rigs. But no one likes to have an RV covered in road grime. This little bottle called Shine Armor works wonders. It washes the surface without water, shines, and protects as well. Spray it on a cloth and wipe it on the RV. Itâs amazing. We use it for spot touch-ups and even have done the whole RV with it. It took most of the 8-ounce bottle to do the entire RV but thatâs about what it costs us at one of those coin automated vehicle washes. Itâs not meant for windows but does clean and shine stainless steel and, of course, the RV body.
Rear ladder
We added this accessory ladder to the rear of one of our RVs. There are a lot of reasons I need to get on the roof. To clean the solar panels of debris, to squirt down the roof, to adjust my WiFi and cellular antennas, to check the caulking and to do general roof maintenance. The ladder comes in two sections. The top is firmly attached. A lower section snaps on and stores securely in a side storage cabinet. I ordered mine through a dealer and had it professionally installed for about $475.
Mega Cuff Hose and cord clamps
This is such a simple little do-dad. But so handy. This is the Mega Cuff and it is an adjustable clamp that we use to wrap around hoses and power cords to keep them neatly wound up. We use the large size with a three-inch diameter. The clamp has serrated teeth to get the perfect tightness and it releases easily with just the push of a button. We bought ours at one of the big box home improvement stores, but they are also on Amazon. We found a four-pack listed there .
Leveling Blocks
Last on our list are leveling blocks. They kind of look like giant Lego toys. Theyâre great for leveling some Class B vans or towable trailers. You put one or two or whatever you need under your wheels. But they are handy even if you have an automatic leveling system like we do with our Leisure Travel Vanâs Unity Class C RV. We put these under the hydraulic leveling jacks when parked on grass or soft ground. Theyâre widely available for under $30 at Walmart, most RV shops, and on Amazon.
How about you? What are your favorite RV hacks, modifications, and products for your RV? Share in the comments below!
REMEMBER we're going to update this list (from 2020) in a special Amazon LIVE event coming up on Dec. 28th, 2023, at 3pm Eastern. And if you missed it live, no worries, you can use this same link to watch the replay!
Want to see my remote working hacks?
I thought Iâd put together some of our remote work tips. Some of this material first appeared on the Leisure Travel Vans Blog  in a post I wrote specifically for them in 2020.
Last update on 2024-04-27 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API
Published on 2023-12-26
Mike Wendland is a multiple Emmy-award-winning Journalist, Podcaster, YouTuber, and Blogger, who has traveled with his wife, Jennifer, all over North America in an RV, sharing adventures and reviewing RV, Camping, Outdoor, Travel and Tech Gear for the past 12 years. They are leading industry experts in RV living and have written 18 travel books.
12 Responses to “12 of our favorite RV Hacks, Mods and Products”
December 28, 2023at9:20 am , Mike Cook said:
I added an electrical outlet inside our TT that plugs into the power pole 20 amp outlet outside. This gives a little extra power for things that will trip the breakers in a 30 amp service. (Heaters, hair dryerâŠ) PS. Love your article every day
January 02, 2024at12:57 pm , Team RV Lifestyle said:
Thanks for sharing this tip, Mike, and thank you for the encouragement! Team RV Lifestyle
August 01, 2020at3:02 pm , 17 steps for quick RV setup at a campground | RV Lifestyle said:
[…] 12 of our favorite RV hacks, mods and helpful products […]
August 21, 2019at9:26 am , Brian said:
Really excellent. Short, easy to understand, and all needed information to order. Thanks. Really love your info.
August 16, 2019at9:41 am , Ron Rangel said:
You may consider adding more slip proof step covers to the aluminum steps on rv’s as they get real slippery when wet causing you to fall in or out of rv
August 15, 2019at6:48 pm , Krystal said:
Proof read please
September 04, 2019at5:43 pm , Diane said:
Let he without sin cast the first stone!! Cut them some slack!! Be kind!!
September 04, 2019at5:45 pm , Diane said:
Let him without sin cast the first stone!! Cut them some slack! Be Kind!!
August 15, 2019at6:47 pm , Krystal said:
I 2nd that!
August 15, 2019at11:10 am , Shirley said:
What was the name of the cloth Jen used to clean the interior of van?
August 15, 2019at9:41 am , Judy Hodson said:
We have noticed a lot of campers not using the white tasteless hose for fresh water. Is there another type of hose that could be used? An expandable one would be great but we weren’t sure if they are safe for drinking water.
August 17, 2019at6:52 am , Dan Walters said:
The blue hose with the S.S.fittings are better.I got mine at the RV section at Walmart
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LTV Resources
A couple LTV owners have offered to share modifications they have done to their vans. If you’d like to share something you’ve done to make your Leisure Travel Van more livable, please put together a PDF file that includes what you did, how you did it and some photos of the process and send to colleen.easley50 ‘at’ gmail dot com. Â If you don’t know how to make a PDF, send your file as a Word document and I’ll convert it to a PDF for you.
We’d also like to hear of any “fixes” you found for problems with your LTV.
Baggage Door Strut Bracket Repair SOP02515 by TRIPLEE
Insulated Cab Separation Curtains by Colleen Easley
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Service Centers and Driveway Camping for Leisure Travel Van Owners.
10 Coolest Modified Volkswagen Camper Vans
from Porsche engine swaps to expedition-ready overland mods, these insane builds prove just how versatile and cool Volkswagen camper vans are.
One of the most iconic vehicles of all time, the Volkswagen Type 2 has been known by many names throughout its history . Depending on who's asked, it's a Volkswagen Camper Van, a Bus, a Kombi, or a Transporter. No matter what it's called though, it's held a special place in the hearts of van enthusiasts and campers for years.
RELATED: These Are The Coolest Modified VWs We've Seen
Of course, many owners prefer to put their own spin on their Volkswagens, modifying them exactly to their tastes . Those modifications come in all shapes and sizes, from Porsche engine swaps to expedition-ready overland mods. Really, the only limit is the owner's imagination, as these next ten builds prove. They all take a slightly different approach to customizing their camper vans, but they share one thing in common: they're all incredible.
10 The Swiss Army Knife
The beauty of owning a camper van is that there are no limits on where drivers can explore, as if there's a road, they can go there. Sometimes, there doesn't even need to be a road. This Swiss build is like an Army knife in that it's seemingly good for anything.
It's been lifted and fitted with chunky off-road tires, and there are some overland-style storage boxes on the back for extra supplies out in the wild. It's clearly got the chops to tough it out with the best 4x4 campers, but it's still stock enough to be good for traditional road trips too.
This rat rod T4 is unusual in the fact that it's a lot newer than most ratty VWs tend to be. It's only from the late '90s, but the rusty patina gives the impression that it's been around for a lot longer than that. It's deliberate, of course, as are the other haphazard modifications.
The squeaky-clean rims are the biggest giveaway that this Transporter is a lot better looked after than its initial appearance might suggest. Its ratty look has been crafted with care, right down to the wonky VW badge on the front.
8 Porsche-Powered Bus
Okay, so technically this is a VW panel van and not a camper, but it's on this list anyway as it's too cool not to talk about. It's been engine swapped with a unit out of a Porsche 912, then fitted with a sports exhaust and Porsche-style wheels.
What's even cooler is that it's used as a delivery van by a longboard company, so it's very much still in active service even fifty years after it first rolled out the factory. There aren't many vans that can claim that accolade, that's for sure.
Proving that not every van build has to be radical, this T6 takes a very clean and measured approach. Really the main modification is its lower stance, along with a set of stunning wheels from aftermarket experts Rotiform.
The owner has also fitted a pop-top for extra space, which almost doubles the height of the van when it's parked. Another cool small detail is the use of a German-style registration plate, an homage by its British builder to the VW's home nation.
6 Overland Van
For those who don't know, the term "overland" refers to an off-road adventure vehicle, usually kitted out with wilderness-ready camping and expedition equipment . Most of the time, overlanders tend to be big SUVs or trucks, but this build proves that even a tiny VW van can make a convincing overlander if it's done right.
RELATED: These Camper Vans Are Perfect For Overlanding Expeditions
The roof-mounted tent is an overland staple , and the whole van seems incredibly well packaged. There's even a pull-out table hidden in the van's floor, which is a cool way to maximize every inch of the camper's interior.
5 Did Somebody Say Vans?
If you're a VW owner that happens to like campers and skate shoes, why not combine those two interests and make a Vans van? This owner did, and the result makes for a very cool retro-liveried build.
Like many modded VW builds, this van has been slammed, leaving that chunky front bumper perilously low to the ground at all times. It also features an oversized set of steelies, which is an unusual choice but actually works really well with the overall 'in-progress' vibe of the van.
4 Bagged T5
Fitment seems to be the name of the game with this build, as when it's sat low the wheels just barely tuck under the arches. The look is achieved through bagged suspension, so it can be swapped back to stock ride height when it's on the road.
RELATED: These Slammed European Sports Cars Look Incredible
It's an unusual color scheme, but it works, especially with the matching wheel and bodywork combo. It might not be to everyone's tastes, but judging by the owner's Instagram account, it seems to attract plenty of attention wherever it goes.
3 The Stealthy Off-Roader
Many camper van owners like to decorate their vans with bright colors and unique paint schemes to make their vehicle stick out among the crowd. This owner appears to have done the opposite, with a completely greyscale look that's more stealthy than showy.
It's still very cool though, especially with its lift kit and bull bar at the front. It seems the owner has achieved the difficult task of making a VW van look mean, and they've recently put it to good use travelling around the moody forests and lakes of Sweden.
2 Extreme Bus
This next build demonstrates exactly why VW vans are more versatile than most people think. In the day this T3 has been put through its paces on an off-road trail and at night it's still a perfectly functioning camper.
It's a long way beyond what most vans usually get put through, but despite that, it still looks remarkably stock minus a few minor modifications. It seems all it takes to turn a van into an off-roader is a lift kit, some chunky bumpers, and some serious balls.
1 How Low Can It Go
Seriously though, how low can this go? If it was any lower then surely this van would be totally undrivable. It seems barely an inch off the ground, and yet somehow it still seems to be able to cope with potholed British roads.
Even though it practically sits on the ground, it's apparently still a fully functional camper, complete with a pop-up roof for extra headroom. There's been many slammed van builds shown off over the years, but this one has to be up there with the best of them.
Traveler's Backpack
Unique and upgradeable backpacks with customisation, Curios API/Trinkets integration and more!
[1.20.4] Traveler's Backpack 9.4.0
âš Upgrades can be found in Abandoned Mineshaft, Simple Dungeon, Desert Pyramid, Shipwreck Treasure, Woodland Mansion, Nether Bridge, Bastion Treasure and End City Treasure (For more info check wiki on GitHub) đ§ Villager backpack can be obtained from librarian villager on 3rd level đ§ Tool slots can be accessed without need to removing latest tool đ§ Changed recipes to use tags where possible đ Fixed invisible backpack bug on server đ Allow emptying tanks into partially filled containers đ Fixed not working enableOverlay config option đ Fixed throwing items when clicking on buttons đ Fixed Blaze Backpack crash đ Updated es_es, de_de, fr_fr, uk_ua, zh_tw, pt_br, en_gb, ja_jp
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The Wayward Home
13 Campervans So Luxurious, Youâll Think Youâre in a House
Posted: April 16, 2024 | Last updated: April 16, 2024
Enhance your van life experience by adding a touch of luxury without the bulk of a traditional motorhome. Picture yourself relishing the comforts of on-demand hot water in your shower, a dedicated sleeping area, and the seclusion provided by stylish cabin dividers.
The latest luxury campervans meld reliability with convenience, designed to be easy to maneuver and park, while providing plenty of space and durability.
Check out our top picks for luxury campervans that bring comfort and style to the open road!
1. Thor Motor Coach Tranquillity
The Tranquillity campervan by Thor Motor Coach is a short and agile camper van that can take you anywhere thanks to its all-wheel drive.
While this van is on the smaller end of the spectrum, youâll find plenty of comforts inside.
The kitchen has a fridge, convection microwave oven, stainless steel sink with a cover, dual-burner gas cooktop, thick countertops, and a fold-out table to use outside. Thereâs also a living room area where you can chill out, relax, and eat at meals. The bathroom is enclosed, so you can do your business or shower in privacy. Not bad, huh?
The Tranquillity has two floor plans: the 19LT and the 19PT. One features a rear sleeping area thatâs permanently set up, while the other has a fold-out sleeping area at the back, so the lounge area is a lot bigger.
2. Outside Van Approach
Every single detail feels premium on board the Outside Van Approach 170 camper van. Itâs an off-grid ready camper with 17âł wheels and all-terrain tires on a 4Ă4 chassis so that you can take it on any adventure. The roll-down cabin divider really sets it apart from other models, as it allows you to create âroomsâ inside your van.
This is one of the few vans with a dinette and a living room. The front seats swivel to allow four people to eat at the table. At the back are two sleeping platforms; one is suspended in the air, while the other is a bench system that turns into a sleep area. Thereâs also a hidden water box with a toilet and shower. Set up the black curtain when you need a shower.
Outside Van is also launching Syncline, a camper van built on the Mercedes Sprinter 144, in 2024.
3. Storyteller Overland Beast MODE
The Storyteller Beast Mode AWD camper van features a dinette at the front, a sleeping platform, a decent-size galley, a toilet, and a fold-out couch called the âGroove Lounge.â
Think of a cool, unusual feature, and the Beast Mode has it. Awning extension, onboard air compressor, cargo carrier, removable cabinetry, garage area⊠if we gave you the whole list, weâd be here all day!
The Storyteller Overland Beast MODE is also available as a 4Ă4 for $218,620.
- 17 Incredible Off-Road Adventure Vans for Overlanding
4. Roadtrek Pivot Slumber
The Roadtrek Pivot Slumber is a camper van built on the Ram Promaster Chassis with a sleek interior look. The Duo Space bathroom has a pivoting wall that creates a shower room and keeps the rest of the bathroom dry. We love this clever idea!
The dining table hides a swivel extension, so you can make it bigger at meal times or when you need to work on the go. Handy.
The pop top means you can sleep four people in this luxury campervan.
5. Thor Motor Coach Sequence
The Thor Motor Coach Sequence is a luxury camper van for couples who prefer a spacious interior to a big bathroom.
The kitchen has all the essentials , while the dinette is super cozy. The bathroom is compact but big enough to have a nice warm shower after a day spent adventuring. At the back of the van, youâll find the king-size sleeping area, which needs to be assembled at night.
The Sequence comes equipped with a bike rack and patio awning. If you like, you can add a pop-top SkyBunk to add a separate bedroom to the floor plan.
6. Pleasure-Way Plateau TS
The Pleasure-Way Plateau TS looks like a luxurious modern boat inside, thanks to the big windows, white cushions, and cream (Champagne) furniture.
Donât worry â the upholstery also comes in flint, a better color for van lifers who regularly get muddy.
The guys at Pleasure-Way used every inch of space inside while keeping the furniture as big as possible. Great, innovative design.
The full kitchen is super long, the wardrobe is huge and the lounge is extra comfy. If you travel as a couple, this camper van definitely offers a glamorous camping experience.
Airstream Interstate 24GT
The Airstream Interstate 24GT is an elegant camper van with many windows and a huge lounge where you can chill out. Itâs perfect for people who love to cook from scratch, thanks to the extra-long kitchen. If you enjoy having a guest over now and then, transform the cockpit into a guest bedroom with the inflatable bed, which comes as standard from Airstream.
We love the idea of having continuous hot water in the Airstream Interstate 24GT shower with the tankless water heater. Thatâs true luxury in our book. If you like, you can upgrade the vehicle to four-wheel drive.
8) Coach House RV Arriva
The Coach House RV Arriva is a luxurious Class B motorhome best suited to couples â only two people can sit at the table inside it.
What makes this camper van stand out is the huge dry bath at the rear of the van. It takes up the entire vehicle width and features a separate shower cubicle â thatâs unheard of on a van!
Having a âproper bathroomâ is well worth not being able to have guests for dinner inside. Just invite people over when the weather is good â simple.
9. Winnebago Revel
The Winnebago Revel is an agile camper van with a practical interior and plenty of storage for your adventure gear. The dinette seating is designed to be comfortable when camping and driving on rough terrain. The power lift bed is super helpful, as it turns the back of the vehicle into a garage with lots of storage space.
Being light and equipped with a 3-liter turbo diesel engine, you can take it up steeper tracks, through mud and snow, or on sand.
10. Grech RV Turismo-ion
The Grech RV Turismo-ion camper van packs a lot of luxuries in only 19 feet. It features a big sofa bed, a wet bath, and a luxurious-looking kitchen.
We havenât seen a porcelain toilet and power window shades on any other van thatâs on the market.
When it comes to choosing a luxury camper van, itâs all in the little details. There are so many out there by now. Well done, Grech RV.
11. Entegra Coach Ethos
The Entegra Coach Ethos is a modern, luxurious camper van featuring a big couch that turns into a sleeping area, a wet bath, and a dining area. The guys at Entegra Coach designed a smaller kitchen to allow for a more extensive sleeping area â an excellent decision!
If you like, you can add a pop-top roof to the Ethos to create a second bedroom.
12. Earthroamer
This is not technically a van, we know. But we couldnât not include the EarthRoamer SX. If you dream of the ultimate luxury experience in the wilderness, youâve gotta take a look at it. Itâs got 350 horsepower and a 6.6L turbo diesel V8! Did we mention it comes with 43âł Military Grade Goodyear Tires?
Inside, it looks like a hotel. The platform bed has wooden steps going up to it. The shower looks like itâs come out of a spa. The living room is spacious and comfortable. Can you even imagine how cushy van life would be with a washer-dryer?
While the interior is to die for, the EarthRoamer SX is also designed to provide a fantastic outdoor camping experience. It features an electric awning, LED lighting all around, and an outdoor kitchen.
13. Jayco 2024 Swift
The Jayco 2024 Swift camper van packs a lot of comfort in a small space. The floor plan features a kitchen, a wet bath, and a couch or benches, which turn into a sleeping area. This is king-size, which is pretty awesome for a vehicle with such a small footprint.
We like the extra details like the winterization drain system and the heated holding tanks. They surely make van life easier!
Want to Live the Van Life? Here are the 16 Best Vans to Live In
If youâre considering living the van life, a lot goes into choosing the right type of van for your needs. If you want a campervan but donât know where to start, weâve got you covered!Â
Iâve lived in a Toyota Prius, a Chevy Astro Van and now a self-converted Sprinter van. In this post, weâll outline the best vans for van life so you can travel as a weekend warrior or full-time van lifer.
- Read More: The Van Life VIP List: 16 Dream Vans Youâll Want to Live In
12 Ridiculously Overpriced Camper Vans And Trucks
With over 16 million posts tagged #vanlife on Instagram, itâs no wonder the van life trend has now become mainstream. But itâs not just Millennials and Zoomers self-converting old vans posting on the platform.Â
More and more people are hoping to hit the road and go on a long off-grid adventure, but they donât want to give up the luxuries they have at home. So manufacturers are responding by producing rigs that can travel anywhere while resembling a 5-star hotel room inside.
Here are the most expensive camper vans and trucks we could find on the market.
- Read More: 12 Ridiculously Overpriced Campervans and Trucks for Van Life Adventures
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The Maya Train Will Get You to All of YucatĂĄnâs Best Spots. But Not Yet.
In December, the train began running on its first route through Mexicoâs YucatĂĄn Peninsula. On a five-day journey a few months later, the author encountered enthusiasm, and scheduling hiccups.
By Elisabeth Malkin
Elisabeth Malkin has been visiting the YucatĂĄn Peninsula for three decades.
I stepped off the platform at the gleaming new MaxcanĂș train station, eager to see the magnificent Maya archaeological site of Uxmal. All I needed was a taxi to take me there, a trip of about 30 miles away.
There are no taxis, said the stationmaster, as we stood on the polished limestone floors of the high-ceilinged station, which was cool and breezy despite the brilliant late-morning sun outside. And I was the third person in two weeks to get off at MaxcanĂș expecting to reach Uxmal, he said.
I was midway through a five-day trip to explore the brand-new Maya Train and several of its destinations in the YucatĂĄn Peninsula of Mexico . Designed to run 965 miles (1,554 kilometers) around a loop of 34 stations when completed, the train will whisk passengers in cool comfort through colonial cities, archaeological sites, splashy resorts and tropical forests.
Now I was stunned. Wrangling a taxi has never been a problem in Mexico. But the drivers gathered in the main square of MaxcanĂș offered only beat-up vans that hopscotch through small towns, where I might or might not find a taxi to Uxmal. The next van was leaving in 45 minutes.
YucatĂĄnâs layers of history have long held me spellbound. During earlier car trips, I have clambered up deserted Maya temples and palaces, stepped into the cool naves of massive 16th-century churches and visited restored haciendas, testaments of the ostentation â and hardship â of the peninsulaâs 19th-century plantation economy. Traveling by train, I thought, would allow me to steep myself in more of that history.
But as I found in MaxcanĂș, a train wonât necessarily get you to where you want to go.
During my February trip, I traveled on the only route then available, an east-west leg that opened in December and runs from CancĂșn to MĂ©rida, and then south through the port city of Campeche to the Maya site of Palenque (a short route between CancĂșn and Playa del Carmen opened last month, with three trains a day). I encountered scheduling confusion, unfinished stations and a dearth of trains â just two operating daily each way between CancĂșn and Campeche, and only one to Palenque. Overnight sleepers and special dining trains seem years away.
President Andrés Manuel López Obrador considers the Maya Train his showcase development project, and wants to inaugurate the rest of the train before he leaves office on October 1. Based on my experience, that goal seems elusive.
A $29-billion route through the jungle
I started my journey in CancĂșn, where in the pre-dawn gloom the station hovered like a glowing spaceship. An attendant scanned the ticket I had bought online and a half-dozen more pointed me toward my tourist-class car, which was about a quarter full. I planned to go to Campeche, about 300 miles away, stopping once each day. At 120 kilometers (about 75 miles) an hour, the train covers the route in about six hours, the same as a car. (When construction is complete, the trainâs speed should increase to 160 kilometers an hour.)
The carâs wide windows looked out at a wall of low jungle. The blue-green seats were comfortable and there was ample space between the rows. I bought a very good cappuccino at the snack bar, but declined the plastic-wrapped sandwiches. The rest of the merchandise was fruit cups, milk boxes and junk food.
The train will ultimately cost much more than the $29 billion budgeted so far, and itâs not the first time ambitious planners have alighted on the region. CancĂșn was once a tiny fishing village, selected half a century ago as a tourist hub. Last year 10 million international tourists flew into its airport, more than the airports of Mexico City, Los Cabos and Puerto Vallarta combined.
But uncontrolled growth has stressed the Caribbean coastâs fragile environment. The Maya Train, scientists warn , will push those problems south, threatening the areaâs water supply, its unique system of underground limestone caves and its vast nature reserves.
Mr. LĂłpez Obrador has charged ahead, handing the train over to the military , and arguing that it will spread CancĂșnâs wealth and attract new visitors. Mexico received more than 42 million overseas tourists last year and they spent almost $31 billion .
Local governments see an opportunity. âThe train will allow people to disperse throughout the peninsula,â said Michelle Fridman, the tourism secretary for YucatĂĄn state, which promotes dozens of attractions far beyond highlights like MĂ©rida and ChichĂ©n ItzĂĄ .
Now that the train is operating, transport companies will begin to connect stations with lesser-known sites nearby, she said.
Itâs fair to ask whether the train is the most effective way to develop the peninsulaâs tourism. Tour companies already run trips to many sites from major cities, which are well served by buses. Driving a rental car through most of the area is considered safe , according to U.S. State Department travel guidance .
Route of Mexicoâs Maya Train
Canceled trip.
It took two hours (and one time-zone change) to reach Valladolid, a colonial city of handsome streets and ancient churches, where I bought the rest of my tickets at the station. A tourist-class ticket from CancĂșn to Valladolid costs 472 pesos (around $28) for foreigners and 355 pesos (around $21) for Mexicans. First class, with wider seats, costs 755.50 pesos and 566.50 pesos, and discounts are available for older travelers and residents of the five states along the trainâs route. (A first-class bus from downtown CancĂșn to Valladolid costs between 222 and 344 pesos, depending on the time of day, and takes half an hour longer.)
It was impossible to run the new Maya Train tracks into dense city centers and the Valladolid station, like the rest, was outside the urban core. A waiting bus took disembarking passengers downtown, a 15-minute ride for 35 pesos.
That day I toured Ek Balam , the site of a ninth-century Maya kingdom that is dominated by a 100-foot palace distinguished by a facade of carvings depicting winged warriors, stylized animal features and geometric patterns bordered by giant fangs. Admission to the site includes entry to the X-Canché cenote, one of thousands of limestone sinkholes that were sacred to the Maya.
Later that afternoon, I was wandering through the Museum of Ethnic Clothing, a private collection of traditional dress, embroidery and hats, when a WhatsApp message from the ticket office blinked on my phone. My train scheduled for the following day was canceled.
I decided to deal with the problem in the morning and enjoy the city. As I wandered past the antique shops and boutique hotels of the elegant Calzada de los Frailes, it was clear that Valladolidâs tourism, and the infrastructure to handle it, was well established. The Maya Train is simply an alternative way to reach a city that tourists discovered years ago.
âWeâre on the Tren Maya!â
In the morning, I found that my train had not been canceled, but the station for which I had a ticket, Tixkokob, was closed. I got off instead one stop earlier at Izamal, known for its ocher streets and the giant Franciscan convent of San Antonio de Padua, built atop the ruins of a pyramid.
During the 90-minute ride, I heard widespread enthusiasm among fellow travelers who expressed a willingness to give the train time to work out the kinks. âWeâre an experiment,â said Oliva Escobedo Ochoa, 64, who was vacationing from her home in central Mexico.
Leticia Iliassich, 57, who is Mexican, was traveling with her Croatian husband along with relatives from Mexico and Croatia. They had initially been scheduled on an earlier train to MĂ©rida that had been canceled. âWe knew that it was a new project,â she said. âWe donât mind.â
The group had already sent a video to friends declaring, âWeâre on the Tren Maya!â
At the Izamal station I hitched a 15-minute ride into the town center with a man who had asked me to take his photo alongside the train and his father. From there I negotiated a taxi to Hacienda San Lorenzo AkĂ©, a working hacienda that still turns the fiber from an agave plant called henequĂ©n into coarse rope. Global demand for henequĂ©n, known as YucatĂĄnâs âgreen gold,â brought fantastic wealth to the region in the mid-19th century, speckling the peninsula with more than 1,000 haciendas. ( Many are now sumptuous hotels.)
Where geometry, nature and the divine merge
It was during my third day that I found myself stuck in MaxcanĂș, after a 90-minute train ride from Izamal. The stationmaster, an army captain, offered me a ride to Uxmal, just as he had to the stranded tourists before me.
Eying Uxmalâs 4 p.m. final ticket sale, I accepted.
My situation made it clear just how distant the Maya Trainâs promises are for tourists seeking to explore more of YucatĂĄn. In time, that will change, said Ms. Fridman, the tourism secretary. âThe idea is to have more hotels along the train line,â she said. âThat will happen little by little.â
But Uxmal , among the most stunning of the Maya sites, made up for the inconvenience. Uxmalâs grand buildings are faced with intricate decorative masks as well as friezes in which geometry, nature and the divine merge. New plaques at each structure offer detailed information in English and Spanish, part of the governmentâs investment in improving displays at Maya sites for the train project.
Most tourists either take day trips by car or bus to Uxmal from MĂ©rida or stay at one of three nearby hotels. As I finished dinner at my hotel, the dining room began to fill up: 47 Polish tourists had arrived.
Panama hats and a cramped van
My plan for the day was to go by taxi to BĂ©cal, a town where Panama hats are woven in limestone caves to keep the fibers soft, and then pick up the afternoon train in nearby CalkinĂ for the port city of Campeche.
But I spent so much time watching the hat-making demonstration and then fitting my new hat and buying gifts that we set off with little time to reach the station. To my chagrin, I missed the train, the last one of the day.
On CalkinĂâs central square, I found a van that was leaving for Campeche. Cost: 65 pesos. Time: about 1 hour and 20 minutes, similar to what I would have spent on the train. Of course, I was trapped in a cramped seat and had to listen to the driverâs choice of sentimental ballads, but I was dropped off in downtown Campeche, close to my hotel.
The next day, I toured the Museum of Maya Archaeology , an expertly curated collection that included haunting jade funeral masks, glyphs and delicate ceramic figures.
JosĂ© Madrigal, 45, an engineer from Fremont, Calif., was trying to make Maya pottery interesting for his twin sons. The boys had just turned 5 and their birthday present had been a ride on the Maya Train. âThey love trains,â Mr. Madrigal said. Then the family moved on, keeping up a brisk clip through the museum. They had another train to catch.
Should you take the train?
Yes, if you are traveling between larger stations. The train also offers a way to get to Palenque, which is harder to reach and has roads with security concerns. Travelers can stow bicycles on board.
To see train times, check the destinations on the website . You cannot buy tickets online more than a week in advance. But when you finally board, the ride is smooth â and the coffee is excellent.
Follow New York Times Travel on Instagram and sign up for our weekly Travel Dispatch newsletter to get expert tips on traveling smarter and inspiration for your next vacation. Dreaming up a future getaway or just armchair traveling? Check out our 52 Places to Go in 2024 .
Open Up Your World
Considering a trip, or just some armchair traveling here are some ideas..
52 Places: Â Why do we travel? For food, culture, adventure, natural beauty? Our 2024 list has all those elements, and more .
Mumbai:  Spend 36 hours in this fast-changing Indian city  by exploring ancient caves, catching a concert in a former textile mill and feasting on mangoes.
Kyoto:  The Japanese cityâs dry gardens offer spots for quiet contemplation  in an increasingly overtouristed destination.
Iceland: Â The country markets itself as a destination to see the northern lights. But they can be elusive, as one writer recently found .
Texas: Â Canoeing the Rio Grande near Big Bend National Park can be magical. But as the river dries, itâs getting harder to find where a boat will actually float .
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