best travel book puglia

The Best South Italy Guide Books (Puglia, Sicily, Amalfi Coast & More!)

Recently, I’ve been spending a lot of vacation time in South Italy, including upcoming trips to Puglia and Basilicata, along with recent trips to Sicily and the Amalfi Coast. As part of my trip planning I have read every South Italy guidebook I could find. And, like always, I am happy to share my reviews of these South Italy guide books with you, so that you can read and pack the right ones on your own trip to Italy.

In 2023 and 2024 there were major changes at some of the main guidebook companies, and some of those changes were not for the better. So, when you’re looking at this list of South Italy guide books, make sure to note the year of each book I recommend, as the newest editions may not be as helpful. If you have any questions about my recommendations (or about traveling in Southern Italy) let me know in the comments at the end of this guide.

Lonely Planet Southern Italy (2022 Edition or Earlier!)

Do not buy the 2023 edition of this guidebook!  Look for an older edition, like 2022 ( linked here ) or 2020!

In my opinion, this is the best South Italy guide book on the market.  Specifically, I am talking about the 2022 release (with the aerial view of the waterfront town on the cover), although I also looked at the 2020 version, which was equally useful.

The new edition (dated 2023) uses Lonely Planet’s new format, which is a significant downgrade from the earlier style.  For example, in the 2022 edition, the Otranto Cathedral is listed as one of the Top 8 highlights in all of the “heel” of Italy – but online reviews say Otranto isn’t even mentioned in the new version!

The Lonely Planet Southern Italy 2022 covers the regions of Naples and Campania (including the Amalfi Coast), Calabria, Puglia, Basilicata and Sicily.  For each region there is a useful map with markers to show the can’t-miss sights, plus dense text recommending things to see, restaurants, hotels and transportation connections. There are bonus boxes on many pages highlighting off-the-beaten-path attractions and important historical notes. The sections on Pompeii (three pages you could clip out and carry with you) and Sicilian desserts are top-notch.

Overall, the 2022 of this South Italy guide book is a classic, practical, useful book that you’d want to carry with you when you were out exploring.

Moon Guide – Southern Italy

I’ve never been a big fan of Moon Guides, but they are stepping up to fill a void left by the classic Lonely Planet series.  Their 2022 guide book for South Italy includes Sicily, Puglia, Naples and the Amalfi Coast.

This book feels like a step up from the Lonely Planet – the paper is soft and silky, there are way more color photos and overall it just has a more upscale vibe. This would be the perfect South Italy guide book to gift to someone planning a trip to the region.

I actually used this book quite a bit when planning my upcoming trip to Puglia, as the maps are really good and they helped me identify logical routes to travel around the region (including by train, bus and rental car).

The Amalfi Coast section had good information about both beaches and hiking, and the six-page Pompeii self-guided walking tour was also well-organized. Sicily is split into three separate sections, and I liked the color-coded map itineraries that showed where to go and what to do on each day.

I can definitely recommend the Moon Guide to Southern Italy , and I’ll probably carry a copy with me when I’m in Puglia later this year.

National Geographic Puglia

If your trip to South Italy only includes Puglia, this would be the perfect guidebook to carry.  The National Geographic Puglia contains more than 250 pages of information about traveling in Puglia, starting with the Gargano Region in the north and working its way south to the beaches of Salento.

What you won’t get in this book is itineraries, but what you will get is an exhaustive list of the things to see in each Puglia destination, including the history and tips for visiting today. There are full-color map and photos, plus a “Travelwise” section at the back with information about festivals, hotels, restaurants and shopping.  As long as you can plan your own route, this book is perfect for helping you figure out what to do along the way.

The downside of this book is that when they say Puglia they mean Puglia, so it doesn’t include anything about other destination that are commonly visited along with Puglia, such as the town of Matera (which is  extremely famous, and only about five kilometers away!).

Lonely Planet – Italy’s Best Trips: 40 Amazing Road Trips

This review is specific to the 3rd edition of this Italy guide book, which was published in 2020. You can find it on Amazon here. A new edition was published in December 2023 but I haven’t looked at it.

The Lonely Planet Italy’s Best Trips features about 120 pages specific to South Italy, including both Sicily and Sardinia.  As I’m planning to rent a car for a few days in Puglia, this book was really helpful in identifying places that are best visited by car, and how to get between the different cities and towns. There were some spots noted on these driving routes that I didn’t see in other guidebooks, possibly because they aren’t realistic for people getting around by bus or train.

The maps at the beginning of each section show the general route for each drive, and also help you identify which routes could be connected together as part of a longer trip.  There isn’t a ton of information about what to do in each stop, so you might want to pair this book with either the Moon Guide or the Lonely Planet Southern Italy books mentioned above.

Lonely Planet Experience Italy

This review is also specific to the 2020 soft-cover book shown above – Lonely Planet also wrote a completely different hardcover coffee table book by the same name in 2018.

This book won’t help you when you’re on the ground in Italy – it’s too short (clocking in at barely more than 200 pages for the entire country). However, if you know you want to visit South Italy but aren’t sure exactly where you want to go, this photo-heavy book is organized around fifty different destinations and experiences, so you can rifle through it to see what catches your eye.

In terms of South Italy specifically, Experience Italy has about twenty-four pages of content covering Naples, the Amalfi Coast, Puglia, Basilicata and Sicily. Again, pair it with one of my first two recommendations for more comprehensive travel information.

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National Geographic Traveler – The Amalfi Coast, Naples & Southern Italy

This full-color guidebook from National Geographic covers Naples, day trips from Naples, the Amalfi Coast, nearby islands and most of southern Italy, including Puglia, Basilicata, Calabria, Sicily and Sardinia.  Clocking in at less than 250 pages, this book is a good overview of the region but it’s not long enough to cover all these different destinations in depth.

One great thing about the National Geographic Traveler – The Amalfi Coast, Naples & Southern Italy guide book is the selection of full-page “experiences”: things that you might not think of doing, but that will create the unique lasting memories that a cookie-cutter guidebook might not inspire. For example, there is a guide to selecting the best olive oil to bring home with you… perfect for both souvenirs and gift-giving.  Another “experience” page offers tips for choosing the best Pompeii and Herculaneum guide, whether you’re thinking of visiting the archeological sites for a few hours or a few days. 

Rick Steves Naples & The Amalfi Coast (With Pompeii)

Just shy of 200 pages, the Rick Steves Naples & the Amalfi Coast guidebook is a great option for travelers whose trips are focused on this region of South Italy.  It contains easy-to-follow walking tours for Naples, Pompeii, Herculaneum, Paestum (one of my personal favorites – so underrated!), Sorrento and Positano. I love following Rick’s walking tours when I travel, and this guide book has some great ones.

As with all of Rick Steves’ guidebooks you can expect to find current restaurant recommendations (frequent updates mean you won’t walk hours to find a restaurant that closed years ago), budget-friendly accommodation and even a phrasebook to help you communicate in Italian with the locals.

Moon Guides – Amalfi Coast

This book opens with suggested itineraries for three, five, seven or fourteen days around the Amalfi Coast, and then supports those recommendations with helpful tips on what to see and do in each of the region’s most iconic destinations. Like most books in the series, the Moon Guide – Amalfi Coast is printed on thick paper and full of colorful photos and maps, which makes this book ideal for inspiration during the trip-planning phase.

The recommendations in this book are suitable for travelers on a mid-range or upscale budget; many of the recommended hotels run upwards of € 250 per night and many of the restaurants lean towards fine dining. If that’s your preferred travel style, you’ll love this South Italy guidebook.

Rick Steves Sicily

A new version of this book was published in December 2023, making the Rick Steves Sicily book one of the most current Sicily guidebooks on the market (if not the most current guidebook!).  This edition brings you 490 pages of super-helpful information about traveling in Sicily, from the most iconic sights in the island’s largest cities to the secret small towns that are worth a visit too.

As with the other Rick Steves book mentioned above, this is a budget-friendly guidebook with recommendations for reasonably-priced hotels, restaurants, attractions and tours.  Rick’s motto of “exploring Europe through the back door” means that you’ll get tips on how to have authentic experiences (like visiting local salt flats and wineries) without breaking the bank.

Eyewitness Top 10 Naples & The Amalfi Coast

Personally, I love reading Eyewitness Top 10 guidebooks when I’m planning a trip, and the Eyewitness Top 10 Naples & The Amalfi Coast is no exception! 

Some of the lists, like “Top 10 Icons of Popular Culture” and “Top 10 Moments in History” will give context to things you might see and do during your trip, while others, like “Top 10 Toledo to Chiaia” recommend specific sights in an area you could explore by foot, car or public transportation. I would say the layout is more inspirational than practical, but that’s perfect when you’re wanting to get hyped for an upcoming trip!

This South Italy guidebook has about 110 pages of content formatted in full-color Top 10 lists, followed by another fifteen pages of directory-style information about topics like arrival information, currency, transportation and safety.

Lonely Planet Amalfi Coast Road Trips

I salute anyone reading this who is brave enough to take on the twisting, turning, narrow roads of Italy’s Amalfi Coast. If that’s you, please let me know in the comments… and please pack the Lonely Planet’s Amalfi Coast Road Trips guidebook for your journey!

This little guidebook (about 125 pages of content) features general tips on driving in Italy, four suggested road trip itineraries (ranging from two to seven days in length) and information about what you’ll see en route.  In the back of the book a full-size pull-out map helps you envision the different drives, but I would still recommend having a great GPS system (or Google Maps) to help you find your way on the region’s notoriously hectic roads!

I spent a full month traveling around Sicily, so check out my recommended Sicily itinerary – no car required!

If you’re planning your first-ever trip to Italy, also make sure to read my guide to avoiding common Italy travel mistakes .

Planning a trip to Southern Italy?  Pin this post for later!

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PUGLIA TRAVEL GUIDE

Olive trees as far as the eye can see, deep red earth, whitewashed seaside towns, and the sparkling blue waters of the sea are just some of the things you can expect when visiting Puglia.

This is the Southernmost region of Italy and a place full of unique culture, food, and unforgettable landscapes. The locals are friendly and generous with their time, perhaps due to the incredible climate they’re blessed with – the sun shines 300 days a year here! 

A trip to the region might include sojourning through coastal towns, trulli hunting through the Valle d’Itria, sightseeing in Lecce, sometimes described as the ‘Florence of the South, hiking in the Gargano, or indulging in the freshest burrata cheese of your life. Most famous for the towns of Alberobello and Polignano al Mare, there is so much more waiting to be uncovered. Keep reading for our ultimate Puglia travel guide. 

Article contents

Where is Puglia

Puglia is located in the heel of the Italian boot in the very deep South. The Adriatic and Ionian Sea hugs the region from left to right, and the region shares borders with Molise in the north, and Campania and Basilicata in the north west.

South of Rome, the capital, Bari , is easily reached with the high-speed train in just under four hours. Naples lies to the West and a fast train will similarly get you there in less than four hours. 

Map of Puglia

Main cities and towns in puglia.

As one of the larger regions of Italy (in fact the 7th out of 20) there are a great number of cities and towns worth exploring when you travel to Puglia. Consider visiting the following: 

• Bari: The capital (pictured above) is a great place to start or end your trip to Puglia thanks to the well-connected railway station and International Airport. Don’t miss wandering through the labyrinth-like streets of Bari Vecchia, watching the locals roll orecchiette in the streets, exploring the elegant Murat neighborhood, and strolling along the promenade with a detour to the little fish market on the port. 
• Lecce : Also known as the ‘Florence of the South’, Lecce is beautiful and unique in its own right. An extremely elegant Baroque city, it is also a University town and it shows in its friendly, welcoming atmosphere. Don’t miss seeing the remains of the Roman amphitheatre, the Theatre Romain, the Porta Napoli gate, and of course make sure to take a sip of a caffe’ leccese .
• Polignano a Mare : Perhaps the most famous place in Puglia thanks to Instagram (or one of the many weddings in US soap opera The Bold and the Beautiful) is Polignano a Mare. Perched high up on the cliffs, there is an iconic sea view that looks out onto the little beach known as Lama Monachile. Wander the pretty streets of the old town and have your camera handy – you’re going to want to take lots of photos!
• Monopoli : A small fishing village, Monopoli is as pretty as a picture. A stroll through this whitewashed town that rests along the Adriatic Sea will unveil the beautiful Cathedral, a seaside fortress, fabulous restaurants and bars, and of course the beach! If you’re looking for picturesque fishing boats, you’re in the perfect town for a photo opportunity.
• Otranto : Looking for a popular beachside town? Otranto could be your ideal destination. A trip there should also include visiting its UNESCO listed old town ‘centro storico’ and beautiful Medieval castle.
• Alberobello : The other VIP town of Puglia is surely Alberobello, famous for its spectacular streets full of trulli, the traditional dry stone huts with conical roofs. Whilst Puglia is still relatively undiscovered by the crowds, the same cannot be said for this town so aim to arrive here very early for unimpeded walking. It also pays to do a guided tour here to understand the town on a deeper level. 
• Martina Franca : A jewel of Baroque beauty, Martina Franca is a little off the beaten track when it comes to Puglia towns worth visiting. Not overrun by tourists, you can easily lose yourself for a few moments in the little streets. Be sure to try capocollo here, a delicious local cured salami and try to time your visit to coincide with the popular Sunday Flea Market. 
• Locorotondo :  Whitewashed buildings and civic pride are a feature of this pretty town close to Alberobello, and Martina Franca. Locorotondo gets its name from its round like shape, so enjoy a wander through the streets and look out across the valley dotted with trulli . This town is also famous for its white wine so be sure to try some while you’re there.
• Grottaglie : In the center of the region, Grottaglie is the undisputed capital of ceramics in Puglia. Visit the ancient ceramics quarter and while away the hours as you visit workshop, after workshop in search of the perfect piece. 
• Ostuni : F amous for its stunning whitewashed buildings, Ostuni is another breathtakingly beautiful hilltop town to visit in Puglia. Catch glimpses of the Adriatic Sea as you wander through the narrow streets of the old town towards its Gothic style Cathedral. While not directly on the beach, you’ll find several only a short drive away from the center of town.
• Gallipoli : One of the most famous Pugliese towns, Gallipoli is on the Ionian Sea. The old town, connected to the new town by a bridge, is full of lovely Baroque architecture and pretty palazzi. Go for a swim at the sandy beach and relax at one of the many bars along the promenade with a spritz. 
• Vieste : Located in the Northern Gargano area of Puglia, Vieste is a stunning seaside town. Visit the Swabian Castle, relax at the beach here and use it as a base to access the Gargano National Park.
• Taranto : Taranto has a very long and fascinating history reflected in its culture and architecture. Relatively free from tourists, the archeological museum is worth a trip as is the 15th century Aragonese Castle. Look out for Greek remains and don’t skip a visit to the fish market.

Top things to do in Puglia

No matter your interests, this travel guide to Puglia aims to show you how many great activities and experiences to have when traveling in Puglia! Whether you’re a foodie, beach lover, or history buff, you’ll find plenty of choice in this sunkissed region. Some of our favorite activities include: 

Taste olive oil

Puglia is the most important region in Italy for olive oil, producing 40% of the country’s total supply! Gain a deeper understanding as to how extra virgin olive oil is made and the difference between store bought and locally produced with a guided tasting. Try Acropoli di Puglia in Martina Franca!

Visit spectacular beaches

Puglia has some of the best beaches in the country, so you can’t miss a visit to at least one or two! The Grotta della Poesia in Roca is one of the most spectacular with a now Instagram famous sheltered natural pool to dive into. Others include the Beach of Purity in Gallipoli, Santa Maria al Bagno, and Mora Mora Beach near Lecce.

Stay in a trullo

One of the most unique experiences you can have in Puglia is staying in a trullo, the characteristic hut from the Valle d’Itria. There are many options for staying in a trullo from B&B style to luxury trulli resorts .

READ: Our full guide to the Best things to do in Puglia .

Eat pesce crudo (Pugliese sashimi)

Pugliese love their raw fish! In particular, Barese (the people from Bari) are famous for it thanks to the absolute freshness of their seafood. Wander along the old port early in the morning and buy some raw squid, calamari, and sea urchins for a fresh, healthy snack.

Learn to make orecchiette pasta

One of the best souvenirs you can bring home from your travels is the ability to cook something from the region you visited. Pasta from Puglia is very easy to make at home and requires just durum wheat flour, water, and a knife – no machine required. Learn how to make pasta with this class in Lecce .

Explore the Baroque churches in Lecce

Marvel at the sheer beauty and richness of the Baroque churches in Lecce. There’s an old Pugliese joke that the town has more churches than residents and it might seem just the way as you wander through the streets. In particular, take time to visit the Duomo and Basilica di Santa Croce.

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What to eat and drink in Puglia

The cuisine of Puglia is rustic and full of wholegrains, vegetables, fresh fish, and creamy cheeses. Whilst the region is the biggest producer of wine in Italy, it was historically used for cheap, table wine. That’s all changing now and the region is full of up and coming wineries that celebrate the local grapes of Primitivo, Aglianico, Negroamaro, Fiano, and Greco.

Besides indulging in as much raw seafood as possible (don’t miss the gamberro rosso or red prawns), look out for these tasty dishes on your trip: 

• Orecchiette with cime di rapa: The typical pasta of the region takes its name from its little earlike shape. It’s made from durum wheat of which the region is full of and water – no eggs here. The most typical pairing is with vibrant cime di rapa (broccoli rabe).
• Bombette : If you’re not a seafood lover, or simply prefer meat then this dish is for you.  Bombette are fried pork meat skewers filled with cheese, and seasoned with salt and pepper. The best place to try them is in the Valle d’Itria.  
• Taralli : The typical savoury biscuits of Southern Italy, you’ll spot these frequently at aperitivo hour served alongside your spritz. You can find them spiked with fennel seeds, chilli, nuts, raisins or even sweet versions. 
• Focaccia Barese : This focaccia is seriously life-changing! The dough is light and fluffy and thicker than its Northern relative in Genoa thanks to being made with mashed potatoes. The most classic version is topped with ripe tomatoes, oregano, olive oil, and sometimes olives. The best place to try this is at Panificio Fiore in Bari.
• Mozzarella, burrata and stracciatella: Puglia is the land of creamy cow’s milk cheeses! Look out for mere hours’ old mozzarella, burrata and stracciatella or go and visit a local caseificio, dairy farm, to get it seconds after its made.   
• Pasticciotti: The perfect breakfast treat to have at the bar in Puglia is undoubtedly a pasticciotto . This little tart is filled with ricotta, custard, pistacchio paste, or jams.
• Caffe Leccese: Upgrade your coffee order to a caffe’ leccese when in Puglia! It’s a shot of espresso on ice and topped with almond syrup. Locals will tell you not to mix it, but it’s very refreshing either way. The best place to order this is unsurprisingly in Lecce.  
• Rustico Leccese: Another Lecce special, look out for this savoury pastry filled with mozzarella, bechamel, and tomato sugo. Be sure to enjoy this piping hot at  one of the city’s wonderful bakeries like Il Fornaio di Greco Francesco .

Where to stay in Puglia

Whilst tourism is still relatively new in Puglia, there are fantastic and unique accommodation options throughout the region. There are many traditional hotels, B and Bs and apartments in the major towns available at budget to luxury prices.

More interesting however are the masseria and trulli options you can stay in – provided you are traveling with access to a car. Masseria are traditional Pugliese farmhouses that were once used as fortresses in medieval times. Today, there are hundreds of these properties that dot the countryside including many luxurious options that come with swimming pools, spa services and on-site restaurants.

Trulli or traditional stone houses are another option which are also found in the Itria Valley countryside. 

When planning your trip to Puglia, Vieste is an excellent base if you’re planning on visiting the Gargano. Along the Adriatic Sea, Monopoli (pictured above) is a wonderful option with lots of facilities and a useful position on the train line.

For those wanting to stay in the Itria Valley, a car is absolutely necessary as there is limited public transport. Consider basing yourself in the countryside in a relaxing Masseria or Trulli house between Martina Franca and Locorotondo like Masseria San Michele . Further south in the Salento, Lecce makes for the best base as the major city (with a train line) so there are lots of accommodation and dining choices and easy access to the beaches.

When to go to Puglia

Spring is a beautiful time to visit Puglia and enjoy warm weather and beach time with fewer crowds.We visit the region in late May / early June on our Early Summer Puglia tour to take advantage of these ideal conditions.

Those who love the heat and swimming will enjoy the summertime in Puglia, although August is best avoided due to crowds, inflated prices, and the hottest temperatures.

There are incredible cultural festivals during the summer which are worth seeking out including the Night of San Giovanni in Ostuni, San Pietro e Paolo in Otranto, the Puglia Jazz Festival in Bari, the Alberobello Light Festival, La Notte della Taranta in the towns south of Lecce, and many more.

Early Autumn can be a lovely time for late season swimming and sightseeing with less tourists. You can join our Puglia tour in mid September to enjoy the longer sunny days and mild nights perfect for exploring the region and discovering its delicious cuisine.

Whilst Puglia enjoys a Mediterranean climate and plenty of sunshine throughout the year, it’s important to note that things get very quiet during the Winter. Many beachside towns essentially shut down in the colder months with beach clubs closing from early October and reopening in April.

With that said, Christmastime is one of the most magical times of the year in Puglia as the towns are lit up and decorated to the max and bands walk through the streets on Christmas Eve singing Christmas carols.

How to get to Puglia

There are two main international airports in the region at Bari in the North and Brindisi in the South. If you’re arriving in Puglia from abroad, it’s possible to get a connecting flight from most Italian cities here.

Alternatively, the fast train from Rome or Naples is a reliable option to get you to Bari the capital in less than four hours. Traveling by train in Italy is easy and comfortable with the added bonus of no security checks or luggage restrictions making this our preferred way to travel to Puglia.

If you’re arriving with your own wheels or with a rental car from Rome, it’s a four to five hour drive on the A1 and A16. From Naples, it’s a shorter three hour drive along the via A16/E842 and Autostrada A14/Autostrada.

How to get around Puglia

Travel in Puglia with public transport is not widely recommended as it is slow, there are few main train stations, and regional buses might pass through just once a day (leaving you without a way back).

For travelers who are determined to visit without a car, it is possible to get the train from Bari to Polignano a Mare, Monopoli, and Lecce easily. There is a train to Ostuni, but the station is a short distance away from the town so a taxi would be required to reach the old town. Whilst there are train stations at some of the other towns, there are not normally direct routes from Bari.

With that in mind, it is most convenient to rent a car to travel around Puglia. From Bari or Brindisi airport, you can pick up a rental car to travel around the region with ease, on your own schedule. We recommend using Auto Europe or Car Rental by booking.com to browse the best car rental options. You’ll find the best deals at Bari and Brindisi airports.

Let’s go to Puglia!

We hope our Puglia travel guide has Inspired you to visit Puglia. If you’re keen to learn more about this beautiful region of Italy have a listen to our podcast episode about Puglia’s Pilgrim Trails , or discover more Picturesque Towns of Puglia .

Want to discover Puglia with us? For a deeper local connection, why not join one of our Puglia small group tours . You can see what our guests think about our Untold Italy tours in Puglia by watching the video below.

Puglia, Italy

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Stretching 400km from north to south, the long, narrow Puglia peninsula forms the heel of Italy . For centuries it was a strategic province, colonised, invaded and conquered by just about every major power of the day – from the ancient Greeks through to the Spanish. These days clean seas and reliable sunshine are the draws for holiday-makers both Italian and foreign. Acres of campsite-and-bungalow-type tourist villages stud the shoreline, though there are still quiet spots to be found.

The best travel tips for visiting Puglia

What to do in puglia, food and drink, best places to stay in puglia, how to get around, how many days do you need in puglia, what is the best time to visit puglia, how to get here, tailor-made travel itineraries for italy, created by local experts.

8 days  / from 2622 USD

Experience the hit TV show 'The White Lotus' in Sicily

Stay in beautiful Taormina with gorgeous views of Mount Etna and discover Sicily, including famous filming locations. Go on exclusive wine tastings, discover the Greek theater in Taormina with a private guide, visit other Sicilian towns and enjoy the crystal clear water on this week-long trip.

8 days  / from 3258 USD

Enchanting Italian Lakes

Experience the picturesque lakes of Northern Italy, including Lake Garda, Como, Lugano and Maggiore; explore the charming Borromean Islands – former favourites of Ernest Hemingway – and stroll the romantic streets of Verona and Milan. All of this, and much more, with this self-drive trip!

16 days  / from 3258 USD

From Venice to Florence: A Grand Tour of Northern Italy

From the atmospheric canals of Venice and the picturesque coastline of Cinque Terre, to the trendy designer boutiques of Milan and the Renaissance-infused streets of Florence, Northern Italy has plenty to offer. Experience it all with this comprehensive trip.

Each ruling dynasty left its mark on Puglia, whether it was the Romans’ agricultural schemes or feudal lords’ fortified medieval towns. Perhaps most distinctive are the kasbah-like quarters of many towns and cities, a vestige of the Saracen conquest of the 9th century. The one at Bari is the biggest and most atmospheric, as it is drawing visitors in the know for its ambience and excellent restaurants.

The Normans endowed Puglia with ornate cathedrals, while the Baroque exuberance of towns like Lecce and Martina Franca is a testament to the Spanish legacy. Lecce is definitely worth a visit for its crazed confection of Baroque churches and laidback café life.

But if there’s one legacy that stands out, it’s the imposing castles built by the Swabian Frederick II – foremost of which are the Castel del Monte and the remnants of the palace at Lucera.

Brindisi , best known for its ferry connections with Greece , lies just 15km away from the dunes of the Torre Guaceto nature reserve.

The forested Gargano promontory, fringed by sandy beaches, seaside hotels and campsite villages, makes a good place for a family holiday. The best escape is to the dry and rocky Salentine peninsula, where there are beautiful coves and sea caves to swim in.

RoughGuides tip: browse our Italy itineraries and find the best option to suit your tastes.

Torre Guaceto, Puglia © Shutterstock

There's enough to do in this charming region nestled in the southern part of Italy. With its picturesque landscapes, rich history, and delectable cuisine, Puglia offers an array of captivating experiences for every traveler to indulge in.

#1 Swim at the beaches near Vieste

Vieste is a popular holiday town, but its charm, character and fun nightlife make it worth braving the August crowds for – or visiting out of season. The most obvious day trip is to the beaches.

Head for the small one between the promontories; north to San Lorenzo, with fine, soft, gently shelving sand. Or just south of town, to sandy Pizzomunno. Nicest of all is the small Baia di San Felice, squeezed between two headlands and backed by pine trees.

If you want to swim away from the crowds, consider an organised boat trip to the grotto-ridden coastline around the headland of Testa del Gargano.

Salento Beach, Puglia, Italy © Shutterstock

#2 Marvel at the mysterious Castel del Monte

Although it lacks appeal today, Andria was a favourite haunt of Frederick II, who built its major attraction nearby in the 1240s.

The most extraordinary of all Puglia’s castles, Castel del Monte is an isolated fortress built around an octagonal courtyard in two storeys of eight rooms. Its mathematical precision, and the preoccupation with the number eight, have intrigued writers for centuries. Some say it is in fact an enormous astrological calendar, or inspired by the octagonal Omar mosque in Jerusalem.

Mystery surrounds its intended purpose. Although there was once an iron gate that could be lowered over the entrance, there are no other visible signs of fortification, and the castle may have served merely as a hunting lodge.

There is only one record of its use. The defeat of Manfred, Frederick’s illegitimate son, in 1266 signalled the end of Swabian power, and Manfred’s sons and heirs were imprisoned in the castle for more than 30 years.

Castel del Monte, famous medieval fortress in Puglia © Shutterstock

#3 Join in la dolce vita in Martina Franca

Martina Franca is a surprising town with a jubilant Baroque sensibility and a lively passeggiata at weekends. Southern Italy’s top performing arts festival, the annual Festival della Valle d’Itria, takes place here from mid-July to early August.

The main square, Piazza Roma, is dominated by the hulking 1688 Palazzo Ducale, now the town hall. A handful of rooms is open to the public on weekday mornings.

Across the square narrow Via Vittorio Emanuele leads right into the old town and Piazza Plebiscito, fronted by the undulating Baroque facade of the Chiesa di San Martino, an 18th-century church, of which only the campanile survives.

The roads running around the old town’s surviving 14th-century walls offer an excellent panorama of the Valle d’Itria and its neatly ordered fields dotted with trulli.

Martina Franca on a sunny summer morning, province of Taranto, Puglia © Shutterstock

#4 Wander whitewashed Ostuni

Ostuni is one of southern Italy’s most stunning small towns. Known as the “white city”, it is situated on three hills and was an important Greco-Roman city in the first century AD. Seven kilometres away, the popular sandy coastline has Blue Flag beaches.

The old centre spreads across the highest of the hills, a gleaming splash of sun-bleached streets and cobbled alleyways that provide a fascinating amble, and exceptional views.

Bits of Baroque twist out of unexpected places, including an ornamented 18th-century, a 21m-high obelisk dedicated to St Oronzo in Piazza della Libertà. On summer Saturday nights hordes of people drive in from the countryside, meet their friends here and pack out the bars and cafés.

Chiesa di San Vito church houses the Museo di Civiltà Preclassiche della Murgia Meridionale – its highlight is “Delia”, the crouched skeleton of a young pregnant woman, her bones decorated before burial some 28,000 years ago.

Ostuni, Italy © Shutterstock

#5 Linger in Lecce, the Florence of the South

Dubbed the “Florence of the South”, Lecce is a place to explore, with a wealth of fine architecture scattered about an appealing old town, as well as a few diverting Roman remains.

The exuberant building styles are the legacy of religious orders (Jesuits, the Teatini and Franciscans) who came to the region at the end of the 16th century, bringing an influx of wealth which paid for the opulent churches and palazzi that still pervade today’s city.

The flowery style of “Leccese Baroque” owed as much to the materials to hand as to the skills of the architects: the soft local sandstone could be intricately carved and then became hard with age.

For beaches, follow the Littoranea Otranto coast road through pinewoods where several paths lead to long stretches of dunes and rocky coves. Continue south to Roca Vecchia and Grotte Basiliane, a fascinating honeycomb of man-made caves carved into the soft sandstone. There’s a gorgeous natural sea pool here known as the Grotta della Poesia, a favourite spot for locals to launch themselves off the cliffs.

Scenic sight in Lecce, Puglia (Apulia), southern Italy @ Shutterstock

#6 Explore beautiful Otranto

Otranto, a kasbah-like town nestling around a harbour, is set in an arid, rocky and windblown landscape, with translucent seas to swim in.

The port overflows with tourists in August when Otranto’s nightlife is at its peak and the town is most entertaining, but the picturesque location and slow pace will reward visitors year-round, even if its gaudy souvenir shops detract a little from the charm of its winding whitewashed lanes.

The Romanesque Cattedrale di Santa Maria Annunziata is worth a visit, its marble-columned nave adorned by an incredible multi-coloured mosaic. Not far from the cathedral, Aragonese Castello juts out into the bay, defending the harbour. Large parts of it have recently undergone renovation, and its hulking walls incorporate fragments of Roman and medieval inscriptions.

#7 Make the most of Puglia’s produce

Puglia is known as the breadbasket of Italy. It’s the source of 80 percent of Europe’s pasta – the most distinctive being ear-shaped orecchiette – and much of Italy’s fish. It produces more wine than Germany and more olive oil than all the other regions of Italy combined.

Puglia is famous for olives (from Cerignola), almonds (from Ruvo di Puglia), dark juicy tomatoes (often sun-dried), cime di rapa (turnip tops), fava beans, figs (fresh and dried), cotognata (a moulded jam made from quince) and for its melons, grapes and green cauliflower.

The influence of former rulers is still evident in the region’s food. Like the Greeks, Pugliesi eat lamb and goat spit-roast over herb-scented fires and deep-fried doughnut-like cakes steeped in honey; and like the Spanish, they drink almond milk, latte di mandorla.

#8 Island hop in the Tremiti islands

These rugged islands 40km off the Gargano coast are almost entirely given over to tourism in the summer when the tiny population is swamped by visitors. Despite this, they remain relatively unspoilt and the sea crystal clear.

The main Tremiti group consists of three islands:

Only the first two are inhabited. San Nicola is barren and rocky with a fortress, tiny church and no beaches, although there is nude bathing on its east side and good swimming off the whole island.

From there, a regular ferry takes about a minute to cross to San Domino, whose pines offer welcome shade from the heat. Although there’s a sandy beach – Cala delle Arene – right where the ferry lands, it’s packed in the summer. Your best bet is to follow the signs for the Villaggio TCI and make for quieter coves such as Cala dello Spido.

Puglia, Italy - the Tremiti archipelago with the cliffs of Pagliai in the foreground and the island of San Nicola in the background © Shutterstock

#9 Bed down in a trulli

Curious-looking trulli are dotted throughout the Murge area of Puglia. Cylindrical, whitewashed buildings with grey conical roofs tapering out to a point or sphere, are often adorned with painted symbols.

Unique to Puglia, their ancient origins are obscure, but are probably connected to feudal lords who made people working their land build their houses without mortar so they could easily be pulled down if tax inspectors came around.

The thick walls insulate equally against winter cold and summer heat, while local limestone is used to make the two-layered roofs watertight. Most trulli have just one room but when more space was needed, a hole was simply knocked in the wall and an identical structure was built next door.

Although originally they were both dwellings and storehouses, these days they’re being snapped up as holiday homes, and some are rented out as self-catering or B&B accommodation.

Rough Guides tip: Planning a trip to Italy? Check our Italy itineraries !

Puglia is known as the breadbasket of Italy. It’s the source of 80 percent of Europe’s pasta and much of Italy’s fish; it produces more wine than Germany and more olive oil than all the other regions.

The region's sun-kissed landscapes yield a bounty of fresh ingredients that have shaped its unique gastronomy. From olive groves to vineyards, Puglia's cuisine is a celebration of the land's rich bounty.

Some iconic dishes not to miss include:

• Orecchiette con Cime di Rapa: Puglia's signature pasta, orecchiette, pairs perfectly with the bitterness of cime di rapa (broccoli rabe), garlic, and chili flakes.
• Burrata: A luscious cheese with a creamy interior, burrata is often served with ripe tomatoes and drizzled with extra virgin olive oil.
• Friselle: These twice-baked bread rounds are a staple, enjoyed soaked in water and topped with fresh tomatoes, olive oil, and oregano.
• Fava Bean Purée: Creamy and flavorful, this purée is served with bitter wild chicory or enjoyed as a spread.
• Sagne 'Ncannulate: Homemade pasta, typically served with a rich meat sauce, embodies the warmth of Puglian kitchens.
• Tiella: A layered dish of rice, potatoes, mussels, and saffron, slow-cooked to perfection.
• Pasticciotto: A delightful pastry filled with custard or chocolate, exemplifying Puglia's sweet side.

Otranto town in Puglia © Shutterstock

In Puglia, a land of ancient olive groves and charming villages, finding the perfect place to stay is an integral part of your unforgettable experience. From luxurious masserie amidst the countryside to stylish boutique hotels by the sea, discover the best accommodations that will add a touch of magic to your stay in this captivating region.

The best base on the Gargano peninsula is Vieste, jutting out into the Adriatic on two promontories.

Fifty years ago there wasn’t even a proper road here, but today Vieste, with its excellent beaches, is the holiday capital of Gargano, and the streets and sands are packed in August.

Despite the crowds, it is a lively and inviting town, with an interesting historic core and, in summer at least, a fairly lively nightlife.

Most accommodation is in the modern part of Bari although some small B&Bs are opening up in the old city. The most affordable hotels are found around the train station, though the area takes a turn for the worse after dark.

Dubbed the “Florence of the South”, Lecce is a place to linger, with a wealth of fine architecture scattered about an appealing old town, as well as a few diverting Roman remains. Expect high-end hotels and a restored palazzo .

Monte Sant'Angelo

If you intend to stay overnight , don’t count on finding anywhere to sleep at the last minute during the main festival times. For snacks, ignore the touristy places in the lower town and head instead for the bakery outside the castle.

The Tremiti islands

Accommodation on the islands is limited to San Domino and is largely full board in high season. Finding a place on spec in the low season won’t be a problem, though you’ll need to sail from Termoli in Abruzzo, in high season you should book in advance .

Browse the places to stay in Puglia.

Bari, Italy @ Shutterstock

Navigating through the enchanting region of Puglia is a delightful adventure in itself. From its historic towns to its sun-kissed coastline, here's a guide on how to effortlessly explore the diverse beauty of Puglia and make the most of your journey.

FS trains connect nearly all the major places, while small, private lines head into more remote areas – in the Gargano and on the edges of Le Murge.

Most other places can be reached by bus, although isolated village services can be infrequent or inconveniently early. In July and Aug buses connect coastal towns.

Most problems can only really be solved by having your own transport.

Considering the diverse attractions and experiences Puglia offers, you will need at least 5-7 days here. That's enough time to visit a couple of main destinations, explore the coastal areas, and immerse yourself in the region's culture.

Allocate a couple of days to explore the main cities like Bari, Lecce, or Alberobello. Then set aside a few days to discover the coastal towns and beaches. Gallipoli, Otranto, Monopoli, and Santa Maria di Leuca offer picturesque beaches and crystal-clear waters.

You should only need a day in Alberobello, famous for its trulli houses, and a day at Matera, with its fascinating cave dwellings, which are both UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Looking for inspiration for your trip? Check our Italy itineraries or talk to our Italy travel experts .

Trulli houses in Puglia, Italy © Shutterstock

If you’re planning to visit popular Puglia areas, especially beach resorts, avoid July and especially August when the weather can be too hot and the crowds at their most congested.

In August, when most Italians are on holiday, you can expect the crush to be especially bad in the resorts, and the scene in the major cities to be slightly artificial, as the only people around are fellow tourists.

The nicest time to visit, in terms of the weather and lack of crowds, is from April to June, and in September or October.

Find out more about the best time to visit Italy .

Torre Guaceto, Puglia, Italy © Shutterstock

Getting around Puglia by public transport is fairly easy, at least as far as the main towns and cities go.

Of the scheduled airlines flying to Italy, British Airways (Wba.com) has direct flights year-round to Brindisi, the region's main airport alongside Bari. The majority of the routes are from London, and flights from UK provincial airports have been severely cut back following the pandemic, but it is always worth checking to see if there are flights from your local airport.

Unless you book well in advance, flying between June and September will cost more than in the depths of winter (excluding Christmas and New Year).

The main train stations are located in Foggia, Bari, Brindisi, Lecce and Taranto .

It’s difficult to see why anyone would want to travel to Pugliua by bus from the UK. Book through operators like Eurolines and FlixBus and expect several changes

Find out the best ways to get to Italy .

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• Alberobello

written by Rough Guides Editors

updated 17.07.2023

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The Mini Rough Guide to Puglia

3.7, 6 reviews

This pocket-sized guide is a convenient, quick-reference companion to discovering what to do, what to see and how to get around Puglia. It covers top attractions like the Tremiti islands, the Gargano peninsula and Otranto, as well as hidden gems, including Alberobello - the centre of Puglia's famous trulli, the quaint, conical-shaped houses - Castel del Monte, a unique medieval masterpiece, and Lecce, Puglia's Baroque gem, packed with lavish architecture and fanciful facades. This will save you time, and enhance your exploration of this fascinating region. This title has been fully updated post-COVID-19. 

This Mini Rough Guide to  Puglia  covers: The Gargano Peninsula, Puglia Imperiale, Canosa di Puglia, Bari and beyond, Valle d'Itria, The Salento, An excursion to Matera

In this travel guide you will find: 

RECOMMENDATIONS FOR EVERY TYPE OF TRAVELLER 

Experiences selected for every kind of trip to Puglia, from cultural explorations to family activities in child-friendly places or chilled-out breaks in popular tourist areas.

TOP TEN ATTRACTIONS Covers the destination’s top ten attractions not to miss, including Martina Franca, Lecce, Gallipoli and a Perfect Day/Tour itinerary suggestions.

COMPACT FORMAT Compact, concise, and packed with essential information, with a sharp design and colour-coded sections, this is the perfect on-the-move companion when you’re exploring Puglia.

HISTORICAL AND CULTURAL INSIGHTS

Includes an insightful overview of landscape, history and culture.

Detailed description of entertainment, shopping, nightlife, festivals and events, and children’s activities.

PRACTICAL MAPS Handy colour maps on the inside cover flaps will help you find your way around.

PRACTICAL TRAVEL INFORMATION

Practical information on eating out, including a handy glossary and detailed restaurant listings, as well as a comprehensive A–Z of travel tips on everything from getting around to health and tourist information.

STRIKING PICTURES

Inspirational colour photography throughout.

FREE EBOOK 

Free eBook download with every purchase of a printed book to access all content from your phone or tablet for on-the-road exploration. 

Description

Book details.

This title is a part of Mini Rough Guides

Pocket-sized travel guides packed with practical and cultural information for everyone from short city-breakers to longer holiday-makers, thanks to the blend of area-by-area descriptions, at-a-glance historical and cultural information, and comprehensive listings and travel tips, backed up by easily-accessible mapping

Practical travel information including getting there, getting around by public transport, accommodation, detailed food and drink highlights, and entertainment and activities in the region

Destination highlights not to miss at the beginning of each guide

Colour-coded chapters focus on where to go and what to do in a highly-readable descriptive style, featuring historical information and tips on what to look out for

Recommendations for accommodation, restaurants and leisure activities for all budgets

Colour-coded detailed maps on the book flaps with key sights marked up by number

Beautiful, inspirational full-colour photography throughout brings the destination to life

Printed on paper from responsible sources verified to meet FSC’s strict environmental and social standards

Free eBook with each purchased printed guide

Format: 105 x 144mm

Price: £6.99 | $9.99

Extent: 144 pages

BOOK DETAILS

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Customer Reviews

3.7 out of 5, 6 global ratings

Minimal not mini

Having used Rough Guides and Lonely Planet Guides for many years this is the first time I have been disappointed. "Book" has minimal coverage and offers very much less than reasonably expected, not a wise buy,

Very good book

Very good book .

Well put together

The Mini Guide is extracted from the Rough Guide to Italy, and easier to carry around.

Reviews (6)

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Lonely Planet Puglia & Basilicata Paperback – January 1, 2008

• Print length 248 pages
• Language English
• Publisher Lonely Planet
• Publication date January 1, 2008
• Dimensions 5.25 x 0.75 x 8 inches
• ISBN-10 1741790891
• ISBN-13 978-1741790894
• See all details

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From the publisher, product details.

• Publisher ‏ : ‎ Lonely Planet; 1st edition (January 1, 2008)
• Language ‏ : ‎ English
• Paperback ‏ : ‎ 248 pages
• ISBN-10 ‏ : ‎ 1741790891
• ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-1741790894
• Item Weight ‏ : ‎ 9 ounces
• Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 5.25 x 0.75 x 8 inches
• #1,748 in general Italy Travel Guides
• #1,748 in General Europe Travel Guides
• #5,325 in Travel Reference & Tips

About the authors

Paula hardy.

Paula Hardy is a travel editor and writer for Lonely Planet guidebooks. She has commissioned and contributed to over 40 guidebooks. When she’s not scooting around Italy, she writes on north and east Africa, contributes to a variety of U.K. newspapers, travel publications and websites. You can find her on instagram @paulahardy.

Abigail Hole

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Olivia Pozzan

As a travel writer, Olivia has researched and written about many of the world's most exotic places. She has authored and co-authored over 20 Lonely Planet guidebooks. Her articles are published in various print magazines and online including the Lonely Planet and BBC websites. Olivia has managed to combine her passion for writing and travel with a career as a veterinarian. In a life filled with adventure she has trekked mountain ranges from the Alps to the Himalayas, worked for an Arabian prince in the Middle East, led a caving expedition in the UAE and exploratory hikes in Oman, and vetted on a camel expedition in the heart of Australia. As a vet she is passionate about animal welfare. Her approach to veterinary medicine integrates alternative therapies with conventional treatments. Her book, Energy Healing for your Dog and Cat, is a practical guide to the use of subtle energy-based healing techniques in animals.

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The Perfect 7 Day Puglia Road Trip Itinerary

We always knew that we would fall in love with Puglia, but after diving deep into the region on an extended Puglia road trip, it’s safe to say that we’re near-obsessed with it.

From exploring whitewashed hilltop villages to dipping (again and again and again) into the sparkling Adriatic Sea, and from devouring endless plates of orecchiette to sleeping in one of the region’s famous trulli , Puglia is awash with delightful Italy travel experiences.

Longtime readers know that we have a tendency to fall in love with certain corners of Italy and return to them repeatedly, and, well–let’s just say we expect to have plenty of opportunities to continue updating this Puglia blog post over the years.

Located on the “heel of the boot”, Puglia (sometimes called Apulia) is known primarily as a beach destination to Italian and other European travelers.

Some links in this post may be affiliate links. If you make a purchase through one of these links, we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Please see our disclosure policy for more detail.

It’s less popular with North Americans (so far), but that balance seems to be shifting a bit more each year.

With a hidden gem as absolutely sublime as this one, though, it was only a matter of time until the secret got out.

If you’re looking to spend a week exploring a laid-back and beautiful corner of Italy, where the food is fresh (fun fact: around 40% of Italy’s olive oil comes from Puglia!), the driving easy, the and the swimming sublime, this Puglia road trip itinerary is for you.

(And, I didn’t even mention yet that Puglia is significantly less crowded and less expensive than hotspots like the Amalfi Coast and Cinque Terre ).

Here’s how to make the most of 7 days in beautiful Puglia, Italy!

Table of Contents

How We Structured This Puglia Itinerary

Renting a car for your road trip (+ traveling to puglia), can this puglia itinerary work without a car, other destinations to add to your itinerary for puglia, the best time of year to visit puglia, italy, what to pack for a 7 day puglia road trip, one week puglia travel itinerary map.

With a region as large and diverse as Puglia, narrowing down the best places to visit on a 7 day Puglia road trip is quite the challenge!

Unlike many of the itineraries on Our Escape Clause , we’ve structured this Puglia itinerary as a point-to-point trip leading (loosely) from Bari to Lecce, rather than as a loop.

However, as Lecce and Bari are less than 2 hours apart by either train or car, you’ll easily be able to return to Bari at the end of your trip if needed.

We designed this trip to Puglia around visiting whitewashed villages, historic cities, and–of course–lots of beaches and seaside landscapes.

It’s a fairly fast-paced itinerary in the sense that it packs a lot in and involves visiting many beautiful towns, but to drive this route straight through without traffic would actually take less than 5 hours!

You’ll drive a bit more than that, counting day trips and such, but the bottom line is that it’s a very doable distance in a week, even at a relaxed pace.

In other words, you have more time for beach time than you might think at first glance!

However, try as you might, it’s impossible to explore all of the best places to visit in Puglia in a week, so some (very worthy) destinations have been cut.

Because of this, in addition to the detailed 7 day itinerary for Puglia that we’ve outlined here, we’ve also made notes of several more incredible places in the region that you can add or swap in, depending on your travel style, the season, and how much time you have to enjoy the heel of the boot.

This Puglia travel guide is quite long, so feel free to use the table of contents above this section to navigate to the most important parts for you if you wish!

For most people, of course, taking a Puglia road trip will require renting a car

We recommend renting a small car through  Discover Cars , which will allow you to compare the prices and inclusions of multiple companies at the same time and choose the best car for you from there.

For the purposes of this itinerary, we recommend picking up your car in Bari.

To get to Puglia itself, you can either fly into Bari (Brindisi, to the south, has an airport as well, but Bari is more convenient for this itinerary), or take the train there.

If you’re coming from outside of Europe, there’s a good chance it will be more affordable to fly into Rome or Venice, and then take the high-speed train to Bari to start your road trip in Puglia.

If you’d like to investigate flying into a major city and then taking a train to Puglia, we recommend checking the train schedules and prices through Omio (bear in mind that tickets for high-speed trains can dramatically increase as the trip gets closer).

Check rates & book your rental car for Puglia today!

This Puglia itinerary is specifically designed as a road trip, and we do strongly believe that driving is the best way to visit the heel of Italy’s boot!

From offbeat villages to quiet, out-of-the-way beaches, your trip to Puglia will absolutely be enhanced by having your own set of wheels.

That being said, if you can’t or would rather not drive, you can still cover the vast majority of the sights included on this Puglia road trip itinerary through a combination of public transportation and guided tours.

If you’re not planning to drive, you can still follow the bulk of this itinerary by train.

However, you’ll likely need to cut some of the smaller towns in the Itria Valley (as you won’t be moving as quickly), as well as stick to beaches/swim spots within walking distance of town.

You’ll also want to be sure to choose lodging that’s within walking distance of the train stations.

And, if you’re not attached the idea of sleeping in a trullo (though I’ll be the first to say it is a delight), you may consider spending longer based in Monopoli and visiting the interior towns via day trips.

If you want to structure your itinerary for Puglia without a car, we highly recommend using  Omio  to check exact ticket schedules and pricing for trains and buses in the region.

Check schedules and shop train and bus tickets in Puglia  today!

Day 1: Arrive in Bari and head to Monopoli.

Bari, Puglia’s capital and largest city, is the perfect launching pad for your road trip whether you arrive in the region by train or plane.

While Bari has several attractions worth exploring, for the sake of time, we won’t dedicate much time to Bari on this itinerary.

If you arrive by train and are a completionist at heart, it’s about a 15-minute walk from Bari Centrale to the heart of the old town, if you’d like to take a quick spin around the city’s central sights like the Basilica San Nicolo and the Cathedral of San Sabino.

Once you wrap up, though, it’s time to pick up your rental car and zip off to Monopoli!

It’s about a 45-minute drive between the 2 cities, depending on traffic, so you’re not in a rush.

After checking into your hotel (ideally in or near the historic center–more on that in a minute), it’s time to start exploring.

While Monopoli’s historic center has some interesting churches and such to check out, the Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi is definitely worth a peek (as is the Bella Blu Gelateria right on it), what you’re most likely looking for is the sparkling Adriatic Sea!

Head to the Porto Antico (Old Harbor) to start your stroll past the Castello Carlo V and along the Lungomare.

As you head further away from the historic center, you’ll notice more and more people with their towels spread out on the rocks, going for a dip–and yes, this is highly recommended!

Where to Stay in Monopoli, Italy

We loved our stay at La Maison dello Zio : the property was clean, spacious, and very quiet (extra impressive considering its location in the heart of Monopoli’s small historic center).

We’d be happy to stay again!

Other popular, well-reviewed options in Monopoli include Corte Sant’Angelo or–if you’re looking for a splurge complete with incredible views–the stunning Hotel Don Ferrante .

We recommend staying in Monopoli for 2 nights.

Check rates & book your stay in Monopoli!

Day 2: Visit Polignano a Mare and explore Monopoli.

On the second day of your road trip in Puglia, head just 15 minutes north or so along the coast to the famous town of Polignano a Mare.

You’ll likely recognize Polignano a Mare’s picture-perfect beach: the views of this beach from above are some of the most iconic images of the region!

While the beach itself is small and very rocky (you’ll definitely want water shoes if you plan to swim there), the water is gorgeous and the views of the coast from above are well worth the trip.

Polignano a Mare is one of the most popular–read crowded–towns in Puglia, so we recommend getting an early start if you can.

Don’t miss the opportunity to wander through the old town, seeking out stunning views of the Adriatic along the way.

Terrazza Santo Stefano in particular is a must-see!

If you want even more unique views of the coast, joining one of the popular Polignano a Mare boat tours is a fantastic option (and will also give you an opportunity to swim away from the crowds at the beach).

Want a bucket-list dining experience while in Puglia?

The picturesque cave overlooking the sea found at Hotel Grotta Palazzese has been used as a restaurant since the 18th century (today, you’ll definitely need reservations if you plan to eat lunch there).

After wrapping up your morning exploring, eating, and possibly swimming your way through Polignano a Mare, head back to Monopoli and enjoy the afternoon and evening there!

To swim, check out Cala Porta Vecchia, or keep walking along the water until you hit Cala Cozze or Porto Bianco.

There are plenty of lidos (paid Italian beach clubs with umbrellas and chairs) around Monopoli, but for less than a full beach day, we prefer to stick with free swimming spots.

Day 3: Head inland to Alberobello and nearby whitewashed towns.

As difficult as it can be to leave the coast behind, it’s worth it to see another side of Puglia during your week in the region!

Puglia is famous for trulli –the dry, stone, conical buildings typical of the area, and the buildings are recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site!

You can find them across the Itria Valley, but no town has a higher concentration of them than the famous–and stunning–Alberobello.

After Polignano a Mare’s central beach, the trulli of Alberobello are probably the most recognizable image of Puglia.

However, today won’t just be about Alberobello, but about the surrounding villages.

The nearby small towns of Locorotondo and Martina Franca are both also well worth visiting, and while they have fewer trulli , they’re beautiful and will be far less crowded.

We recommend saving Alberobello for the end of the day, and spending the night there–ideally in a trullo !

The crowds of day trippers that swarm Alberobello throughout the day can be downright overwhelming, making this down best enjoyed in the evening and the early morning (and if you’re visiting in the summer, this will help with the heat, too).

If you want to make sure you don’t miss any of the most iconic trulli , this popular walking tour is a great addition to your time in Alberobello.

Book your walking tour of Alberobello today!

Where to Stay in Alberobello, Italy

For a memorable stay in the Itria Valley, you can’t beat spending the night in a trullo!

We can’t rave enough about our stay in the Miratrulli Apartment & Trullo –everything from the structure to the location to the hospitality of the owner was flawless.

If it’s booked, though, Trulli Holiday Albergo Diffuso and Trulli Soav e also get excellent reviews.

We recommend spending 1-2 nights here.

Check rates & book your stay in Alberobello today!

Day 4: Continue exploring the Itria Valley or head to Matera.

As you hit the mid-point of your Puglia road trip, it’s time for a decision!

Option one: stay in the Itria Valley, continue exploring whitewashed hilltop towns, tasting wine, sampling olive oil, and enjoying trulli .

With this option, you may want to head over to the gorgeous city of Ostuni, a longtime favorite in the region that features magnificent views from its hilltop as well as plenty of nooks and crannies to explore.

Alternatively, you can head west to the fascinating city of Matera.

Matera, though located in the region of Basilicata rather than in Puglia itself, is a popular addition to Puglia itineraries.

Matera is an endlessly interesting place, known for being populated since the prehistoric area, its incredible views, and its Sassi area–the area populated by cave dwellings dating back thousands of years.

In the 1950s, Matera gained international notoriety for the poor living conditions in the Sassi, and was nicknamed the “Shame of Italy”.

The population was forcibly removed the the “new” (still quite old) town surrounding the Sassi, and the historic cave dwellings were abandoned.

Fast forward several decades, though, and Matera has achieved new life as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a popular filming location (for films ranging wildly from “The Passion of the Christ” to “James Bond: No Time to Die”), and a European Capital of Culture.

Many of the formerly shameful Sassi have been converted into popular boutique cave hotels.

Matera is absolutely, without a doubt, worth visiting–but it is also incredibly hot during the summer months, even by the standards of southern Italy.

If that sounds like a fair trade, or you’re enjoying 7 days in Puglia outside of summer, Matera is a great idea.

If you don’t have a high heat tolerance, consider sticking around the Itria Valley instead, where it still gets quite hot, but is easier to cool off.

Where to Stay in Matera, Italy

Unfortunately, as beautiful as the views from our balcony were, we can’t recommend the cave hotel we stayed in when visiting Matera.

However, Conche Luxury Retreat and Il Belvedere are both beautiful properties that get excellent reviews!

Matera in general is extremely affordable by Italian standards, making it a wonderful place to splurge on a memorable place to stay.

If you choose to visit Matera, we recommend spending one night there.

Check rates & book your stay in Matera today!

Day 5: Make your way back to the sea in Otranto.

Whether you’ve been exploring the Itria Valley or Matera, if you’re visiting Puglia during the summer, one thing is certain: at this point, you’re going to be ready to get back to the sea!

Make your way to Otranto (despite this being your longest drive of the trip, getting from Matera to Otranto is still likely to take you only about 3 hours), where you can enjoy wide, sandy beaches and plenty of coastal charm again.

Choosing a favorite between Monopoli and Otranto would be very, very difficult, but Otranto’s wide, sandy beaches located right next door to the center are definitely a plus.

(Monopoli has plenty of swimming near the center too, of course, but not as many sandy stretches quite as conveniently located).

While in Otranto, be sure to pay a visit to the gorgeous Duomo, the Castello Aragonese, and the tiny Church of St. Peter.

Walking along the town ramparts is also a must, but without a doubt, a good portion of your time in Otranto should be dedicated to beach time!

Where to Stay in Otranto, Italy

We loved our stay at the spacious Marimar Apartments , located a short walk from Centro Storico and an even shorter walk from the sea.

B&B Palazzo Marzo and Palazzo de Mori are both excellent options as well!

Otranto’s small size and location hugging the Adriatic make it simple to find places to stay near the water, a big advantage for a beach town.

We recommend staying in Otranto for 2 nights and wrapping up your 7 days in Puglia here.

Check rates & book your stay in Otranto today!

Day 6: Explore Otranto and visit the Cave of Poetry.

While we’ve tried to leave plenty of room for afternoon swimming in this 7 day itinerary for Puglia, today is the only day that is dedicated almost exclusively to it!

Other than perhaps a bit of sightseeing (gelato in hand, of course) in Centro Storico, today is all about the water.

We recommend taking a drive out to the Cave of Poetry (in Italian, Grotta della Poesia ) to enjoy one of the most stunning swimming holes we’ve ever had a chance to enjoy!

Featuring crystal-clear water, jaw-dropping views, a cave to swim through, and even some nearby ruins to explore, it’s a remarkable sight.

And, if you’re feeling particularly daring, you can even join the locals for a bit of cliff-jumping.

Looking for something a bit different, either as an alternative or an addition to your day?

The Bay of Turkey ( Baia dei Turchi ) is also nearby and boasts what is widely considered one of the most beautiful beaches in Puglia.

If you happen to be visiting Puglia outside the swimming season and are looking for an alternative away from the water, you could substitute a visit to Gallipoli and/or Lecce here.

Day 7: Make your way home, possibly stopping in Lecce on the way.

As you wrap up your 7 days in Puglia and prepare to head home, there’s one final stop we recommend making on the way: Lecce, the “Florence of the South”.

This university city is packed with stunning Baroque architecture and long history with ties to Ancient Greece and Rome.

It’s gorgeous and well worth a visit, but since it’s located inland in the southern part of Puglia, it doesn’t draw nearly as many visitors as the coasts.

If you have time, spend some time exploring the best things to do in Lecce’s Centro Storico, including the remains of the Roman Amphitheatre, the Basilica di Santa Croce, and the Piazza del Duomo and Duomo itself.

This well-reviewed walking tour can help you efficiently cover the highlights of the city in just a couple of hours!

If you don’t want to drive back to Bari to drop off your rental car (it’s about a 2-hour drive), consider checking prices for a one-way rental that you drop off in Lecce.

That’s what we did on our Puglia road trip, and it ended up being very affordable!

Lecce is home to a well-connected train station that can easily whisk you off to your next destination in Italy if you’re planning to continue your travels within the country.

If you’re flying home from Bari, though, it’ll likely be easiest to drive back yourself.

While this itinerary covers quite a bit of Puglia in 7 days, no one trip could hope to cover it all!

In addition to the choose-your-own-adventure modifications we’ve included throughout the itinerary, here are a few more stops you might consider adding on with more than a week in Puglia.

Located on the western edge of the Salento region of Puglia, Gallipoli is located more or less opposite Otranto on the peninsula.

Featuring the beautiful seaside Castello Aragonese, a charming center, and plenty of surrounding beaches, Gallipoli makes for a delightful seaside base in southern Puglia.

Gargano National Park

This itinerary for Puglia doesn’t stray further north than Bari, so sadly doesn’t pass through Gargano National Park.

However, if you’re looking for rugged, wild beaches, offbeat small towns like the gorgeous Vico del Gargano, and even a forest (the Forest Umbra is stunning), Gargano National Park has you covered.

Unless you have an exceptionally long time to spend on your Puglia vacation, this part of the region is probably best visited on a separate trip.

Tremiti Islands

This small archipelago, made up of 5 main islands, is known for its magnificent beaches, sea caves, cliffs, and brilliant turquoise water.

The Tremiti Islands are part of Gargano National Park, but you’ll need to hop on a boat–or, if you’re feeling like a splurge, a helicopter–to get there!

Castel del Monte

The mysterious Castel del Monte dates to the 13th century and was built by King Frederick II.

Its unusual shape has caused some to speculate over the centuries that it was never meant to be a defensive fortress at all!

Today, it is known as one of Puglia’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites and is located just outside of Bari.

Located right on the Adriatic Sea and featuring a beautiful Duomo, charming Centro Storico, and the remains of once-important defensive structures, Trani has quite a bit in common with towns like Monopoli and Otranto!

Too far north to fit into this 7 day Puglia trip, it is nonetheless well worth a visit with more time in the region.

Grotte di Castellana

This stunning karst cave system is a feast for the eyes, and definitely one of the coolest places to visit in Puglia!

And, during the summer, “coolest” is literal: the caves maintain a constant temperature of around 62 ° F/16.5 ° C, making them a great place to escape the summer heat on a particularly hot afternoon.

You can reach the Grotte di Castellana in under 30 minutes from Monopoli or Alberobello.

We’ve designed this Puglia road trip for a visit that takes place during the swimming season–so late spring, summer, and early fall.

Personally, we find June and September to be the ideal months for visiting Puglia if you’re hoping to swim and have a typical beach trip: the water will be great for swimming, and the towns lively without being overrun as in July and August.

July and August are the most popular months for visiting Puglia, so if you want the height of the mid-summer, peak season experience, that’s when to go!

In May, the weather is a bit cool for swimming as far as we’re concerned, but some brave souls do take it on.

Spring and fall are both ideal for cultural trips to Puglia focused on exploring the villages of the Itria Valley, the region’s historic sites, and of course, its food.

We found sweating during mid-day when inland a fair trade-off for swimming in the Adriatic, but we definitely would have been far more comfortable in places like Locorotondo and Alberobello in the spring or fall.

Winter is a decidedly slow season in Puglia, however, the weather does stay mild and quite dry, making it a great choice if you’re looking to escape the cold, dark weather further north during winter in Europe !

Here are a few essentials that you should definitely add to your packing list as you prepare for your road trip in Puglia, Italy!

Travel Insurance  — We don’t ever suggest traveling without travel insurance–anything can happen, and a fast-paced road trip is definitely a case of better safe than sorry.

We use and recommend  Safety Wing  for trips to Italy.

Travel Adaptors for Italy  — If you’re coming from outside of Europe, you’ll definitely need adaptors for your electronics.

Hands-Free Phone Mount  — This is especially important if you don’t have a reliable co-pilot: the last thing you want to do is fumble with the GPS on your phone when driving in Puglia.

Pack a cell phone holder to attach to the car and you’ll be able to drive much more safely!

Dry Bag — Want to keep your electronics safe during a beach day or boat trip?

Securing them in a dry bag is the perfect low-cost solution!

Sunscreen — The day we visited Polignano a Mare, we forgot our sunscreen and ended up panic-buying a very overpriced bottle in town… that didn’t even work well.

Moral of this story: bring your own sunscreen!

Additional Car Insurance  — Whether you purchase a policy that covers car rental (only some do, so double-check!), purchase a policy through the rental car company, or something else, be sure you have coverage: it’s worth the peace of mind.

Portable USB Charger  — Don’t stress about your phone dying while you’re spending long days driving from village to village: add a portable charger to your packing list.

Swiss Army Knife  — Want to open wine bottles in your hotel room, slice cheese from the market, or cut up that fresh focaccia from the bakery?

You’ll be so glad you brought a Swiss Army Knife along on your Puglia vacation!

Camera  — We absolutely adore our  Sony a7R III , but whatever camera you’re comfortable with works.

Just make sure you have something with you to preserve your memories!.

Hand Sanitizer  — We carry this everywhere, and have never been sorry to have it floating around in our day bag.

Take This Map With You! Click each highlight to pull up the name of the destination. To save this map to “Your Places” on Google Maps, click the star to the right of the title. You’ll then be able to find it under the Maps tab of your Google Maps account! To open the map in a new window, click the button on the top right of the map.

About Kate Storm

In May 2016, I left my suburban life in the USA and became a full-time traveler. Since then, I have visited 50+ countries on 5 continents and lived in Portugal, developing a special love of traveling in Europe (especially Italy) along the way. Today, along with my husband Jeremy and dog Ranger, I’m working toward my eventual goal of splitting my life between Europe and the USA.

10 thoughts on “The Perfect 7 Day Puglia Road Trip Itinerary”

Hi there, absolutely loved all the info. I am from Canada and going to Italy(Verona) to visit family from May 24- June 29th. My friend is meeting me in Italy within those 5 weeks and we are going to Puglia. We are planning out our trip next week. This info was perfect. We will be renting a car and are planning for a 7-10 day trip. If we wanted to spend a couple of extra days to relax would you recommend just staying in Otranto?

Otranto is a great choice! Monopoli would be almost a tie with it for us–can’t go wrong with either. 🙂

Hi, Was it easy having the dog with you? Was the dog allowed eveywhere you went e.g. Beaches, restaurant etc. Or was it difficult? I’m asking as I would love to bring my dog with me

In general, it’s very easy to travel with dogs in Italy, and that’s true in Puglia, too. 🙂

Dogs are allowed on some beaches (some are limited to the winter and not all lidos are dog-friendly), so definitely check before heading out on that.

Outdoor dining at restaurants is more or less universally dog-friendly.

Not all hotels and apartments are dog-friendly, but a wide variety are, and we are never short on options for places to stay.

Hope you and your furry friend have a great trip!

Just read your 7 day itinerary for Puglia and so tempted to book almost everything you mentioned. Looks a great trip! So glad we found your site.

Thank you so much, Tina! Hope you have a wonderful time in Puglia!

Hi Kate, my husband and I are planning our 3rd trip to Italy this coming March (2024). Our 2nd trip was to the northern regions, and your advice was extremely helpful. This trip we are going to focus on the southern region. Is there a way to easily print your guides? I didn’t see a print bottom and the formatting changed a bit when I tried to print the page – cutting off some of the info. Thanks for all the great information!!

Thank you so much, that’s great to hear our posts already helped you once! 🙂

Unfortunately we don’t have a specific printable version available right now, though it is something we’ve considered setting up in the future!

Do you know of the Masseria Pote winery in Puglia? We are headed to a wedding there this fall and love your 7 day tour of the area.

I am not, but it looks beautiful! Hope you guys have a fantastic time–Puglia is such a special place. 🙂

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This Italian Region Is a Bucket-list Destination for Food, Wine, and Postcard-worthy Ocean Views

This four-day route hits all the highlights, but if you want to take it slow, allow for multiple nights at each stop.  

Nina Ruggiero is Travel + Leisure's senior editorial director and the co-founder of Be A Travel Writer , an online course for aspiring travel journalists. A New Yorker based in Los Angeles, she has a special interest in beach destinations, outdoor adventures, unique hotels, pet-friendly travel with her golden retriever, @travelswithcali, and all things Italy.

Follow the winding roads of the Puglian coastline—the heel of Italy's boot—to hidden sea caves, clifftop towns, and farmhouse masserie . This four-day route is an ideal addition to a more extensive Italian itinerary , or stay multiple nights at each stop for a stand-alone trip with plenty of time to explore this serene corner of the country.

Day 1: Bari to Lecce

After flying into Bari, follow SS-16 along the Adriatic Sea to Polignano a Mare —its limestone cliffs and whitewashed houses put the region on the proverbial map. Start your trip on a celebratory note with lunch at the elegant Osteria di Chichibio , where freshly caught seafood is prepared with reverence. Then drive south to Ostuni, a hilltop maze of a city whose white houses would look right at home in the Cyclades. The moody, grotto-like Riccardo Caffè is a fitting spot for a drink after seeing the cave paintings of Santa Maria di Agnano . Finish your day in Lecce, a city of Baroque sandstone architecture, where you'll stay at 17th-century masseria La Fiermontina . Its 18 rooms and suites have vaulted ceilings as well as patios that look out on the olive-tree-lined courtyard pool. Tormaresca Vino e Cucina is run by heavy-hitting vintners who serve wines made from native varietals alongside local dishes like frittura mista di mare (mixed fried seafood).

Day 2: Lecce to Gagliano del Capo

Wake early to catch the morning sunlight on Lecce's Baroque Basilica di Santa Croce and order an iced espresso at Caffè Alvino . Don your swimsuit for a dip at the Grotta della Poesia, a nearby swimming hole that inspired myths of nymphs and sea goddesses, followed by a visit to the white-sand beach in Torre dell'Orso to see Le Due Sorelle, the two sisters, twin rock formations jutting out of the sea. A stop at L'Altro Baffo , in Otranto, for mussels with bread crumbs and pecorino is a must—as is a stroll through the city's medieval heart. Further south, the Punta Palascia lighthouse sits at the end of a wildflower-strewn path at Italy's easternmost point, where the Adriatic Sea meets the Ionian. Spend the night in Gagliano del Capo at Palazzo Daniele , where the minimalist design lets the contemporary artwork and restored 19th-century frescoes shine.

Day 3: Gagliano del Capo to Crispiano

Round the heel of the boot to Gallipoli, a port city whose old town is situated on an island connected to the mainland by a bridge. Walk the town's cobblestone streets and snag one of the papier-mâché figurines the area is famous for, or break for a bowl of zuppa di pesce alla Gallipolina (fish soup). In the afternoon, wade into the Gulf of Taranto, explore the lively fish markets of Porto Cesareo, or spend a few euros on a boat ride to nearby island beaches. End the day in rural Crispiano, where the Masseria Amastuola Wine Resort is surrounded by vineyards, farms, and centuries-old olive groves.

Related : 10 Destinations in Italy Where Italians Love to Travel, According to a Local

Day 4: Crispiano to Savelletri

Head north for an afternoon in Alberobello, a UNESCO site known for its 1,500 trulli, conical prehistoric limestone huts that now house restaurants, bars, shops, and private homes. Access Italy leads walking tours that reveal the history of these fairytale structures—and let you taste local specialities at some of the eateries inside them. In Savelletri, check into Borgo Egnazia , a luxury resort set in a dreamy recreation of a traditional Italian village. With six restaurants, three bars, a golf course, and private beaches, it's the perfect place to linger for a few days before driving back to Bari.

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The best of Puglia – the ultimate guide

Discover the enchanting region of Puglia (also known as Apulia), nestled in the southern ‘heel’ of Italy. With its ancient towns steeped in history, diverse landscapes, culinary delights, and breathtaking beaches, Puglia is a treasure trove waiting to be explored. Having personally ventured through this region multiple times, I’ve crafted a comprehensive guide highlighting the absolute best places to visit in Puglia. Within this guide, you’ll uncover a wide variety of things to see in Puglia, along with recommendations for accommodations and dining experiences. Whether you embark on a leisurely 15-day self-drive Puglia itinerary or prefer to concentrate on specific areas in a shorter timeframe, this guide offers the perfect blend of inspiration and practical advice.

The Ultimate Guide to the Best of Puglia

This Puglia guide contains links to three services I often use myself and can recommend: Skyscanner (for flights), Booking.com (for hotel bookings), Rentalcars.com (for car hire) and GetYourGuide (for easy-to-book tours). If you make a booking via one of these services, I will receive a small commission (at no extra cost to you). These commissions help me to maintain my blog and share more travel experiences with you.

Arriving in Puglia

The main entry points for international visitors are Bari and Brindisi (both have airports and ports with international connections). From here, many adventures await for those who want to explore this diverse region.

Bari , the capital of Puglia, can trace its roots back more than 2,000 years when it was founded by the Peucetii tribe. These days, Bari is one of the most important economic centres in southern Italy and, due to its international airport and port, an important gateway to the region. Most visitors arrive in Bari but tend to skip the city, choosing instead to move on to another part of Puglia. I recommend spending 1-2 nights in Bari to wander around its Old Town and soak up the authentic atmosphere.

Read more about things to see in Bari . While in Bari, I stayed at the lovely Gatto Bianco Ducchesa , situated at the edge of the Old Town. Search for hotels in Bari (Booking.com).

Central Puglia

Central Puglia consists of hilly landscapes, verdant valleys, mile after mile of olive groves, vineyards and fruit orchards, quaint whitewashed towns, dramatic coastal cliffs and beautiful beaches on both the Adriatic and Ionian coasts.

Valle d’Itria

Central Puglia is also home to Valle d’Itria or Itria Valley , an area famous for its ‘trulli’ (whitewashed, cone-roofed houses), charming towns and agricultural products.

I recommend spending at least 4-5 days in the Itria Valley , in my view one of the best places to visit in Puglia. Of all the towns in this area, Alberobello (a UNESCO World Heritage town) is the biggest draw. A good town to have as a base from which to explore the rest of the valley is Martina Franca because of its strategic location on an intersection of major regional roads.

Alberobello

Alberobello is perhaps the most famous town in the Itria Valley due to its famous trulli houses. The conical rooftops coupled with charming cobblestone alleys and whitewashed houses are a simply magical sight. The old town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, consists of a maze of streets and steps lined by trulli; drystone dwellings that were built using prehistoric techniques.

Alberobello has become a very popular tourist destination in recent years. During the peak seasons, such as the summer, roads to the town are often very busy and parking is scarce. In this sense, I recommend visiting by public transport from nearby towns or staying in Alberobello (you practically have the town to yourself when the day-trippers have left).

Two B&B’s I can recommend in Alberobello are Il Segnalibro and C’era Una Volta . If you’d like to experience staying in a trullo, check out Tipico . Search for hotels in Alberobello (Booking.com).

Martina Franca

The largest town in the Itria Valley, Martina Franca and can trace its roots back to the 10th century AD.

Being in the heart of the valley, Martina Franca is a great base from which to explore the area but spend some time exploring its old centre which boasts beautiful Baroque architecture (like the Palazzo Ducale and the impressive Basilica di San Martino ) and quaint streets. When you’re here, drop by for a meal at Osteria del Coco Pazzo , a charming restaurant in a vaulted space that serves excellent Puglian food and wines. Ask for the local specialty ‘capocollo’, a cured pork salami. Other restaurants I can recommend include Ristorante Garibaldi (with a lovely terrace in front of the Basilica) and La Tavernetta . Read more about things to see in Martina Franca .

One accommodation I loved, just outside the town, is Villa Ada . In the town centre, check out the B&B San Martino . Search for hotels in Martina Franca (Booking.com).

Locorotondo

Locorotondo means ’round place’ and that’s what it is: a town in a circular form atop a hill. Its hilltop position means that you can see the town from miles around and once you’re up there, you’ll be treated to stunning views of the Itria Valley. The town centre is a labyrinth of white alleys punctuated by churches or piazzas. The houses have pitched roofs called ‘cummerse’, a feature typical of Locorotondo. Walking around the historic centre is like a step back in time. Don’t forget to stop at a café and sip on a famous Locorotondo DOC white wine! Search for hotels in Locorotondo (Booking.com).

Cisternino is often listed as one of the most beautiful towns in Italy. That’s debatable but this town, which dates back from medieval times, sure has a lot of charm to offer. The Piazza Dell’orologio lies in the centre of the town. From here, little lanes and streets fan out in different directions. It’s a delight to simply stroll around the picturesque lanes lined with whitewashed houses and their external staircases. Around Cisternino, you’ll find a variety of beautiful accommodations such as Trullo Suite and Borgo Canonica . Search for hotels in Cisternino (Booking.com).

As you drive along the SS379 motorway that skirts the coast near Fasano, your attention will be drawn to the gleaming white appearance of Ostuni , also known as the ‘white city’. It’s an impressive sight that acts as a magnet for travellers. With its ancient cobblestone streets, grand churches and quaint white houses, Ostuni truly is stunning. The town boasts a remarkable history that goes back to the Stone Ages! The Cathedral and the Bishop’s Palace are especially striking but there are many other architectural gems to be found, including the old homes of the nobles. Join a tour to truly appreciate this town’s beauty and remarkable history.

For a meal in Ostuni, check out Risto Caffe Cavour ( Corso Camillo Benso Cavour ) and Osteria Del Tempo Perso ( Via Gaetano Tanzarella Vitale, 47 ), excellent restaurants with an atmospheric cave setting. I can also highly recommend Restaurant Cielo in the Relais La Sommita.

There are many accommodation types in and around Ostuni, from five star hotels to rustic B&B’s and holiday homes. For a rustic cave-like accommodation in the historic centre, check out Pantarei , White Dream or La Dama Bianca . In the historic centre, indulge yourself at the fabulous Relais La Sommita (it also has its own Michelin-starred restaurant, Cielo). Just outside Ostuni, you’ll find some excellent hotels such as the Masseria Cervarolo (with its trulli) and the gorgeous white-washed Masseria Dagilupi . Search for hotels in Ostuni (Booking.com).

Ceglie Messapica

An alluring historic town near Ostuni, Ceglie Messapica is one of the oldest towns in Puglia, dating back to at least the 8th century BC (!). The town also has one of the largest historic centres, which is amazingly well preserved. Stroll around its atmospheric lanes and piazzas, visit the Castello Ducale (Ducal Palace), admire the artwork in ancient churches (such as Chiesa di Sant’Anna ), sit at the Piazza Plebiscito (with its beautiful clock tower) and have a meal at one of the many excellent restaurants (the town is well-known for its gastronomy). For a terrific meal, check out L’Acquolina ( Via Orto del Capitolo, 37), and if you’re a meat-lover, don’t miss Enococus – Acini & Carbone ( Via Pendinello, 2). For accommodations, consider a stay at Palazzo Camarda , a B&B located just outside the historic town centre. Search for hotels in Ceglie Messapica (Booking.com).

Other towns to visit in Central Puglia

Located a short, scenic drive northwest of Alberobello, Putignano is another ancient town that’s famous for its caves and Carnival (started in 1394, it’s the oldest Carnival in Italy). In the town centre, there’s a museum dedicated to the history of the Carnival. Other important sites include the Santa Maria La Greca Church and the Civic Museum . The town is also home to Angelo Sabatelli , a Michelin-starred restaurant that’s famous throughout Puglia. Just outside the town, you’ll find the wondrous caves of Grotta del Trullo .

Between Putignano and Polignano a Mare lies Conversano ( map ), a historic town with a medieval castle. It’s a lovely town to stroll around in. In addition to the Castle , look out for the 11th century Romanesque Cathedral and the 6th century Benedictine Monastery .

This medieval town is packed with ancient lanes, atmospheric squares (such as the Piazza Orsini ) and historic monuments. The top attractions in Mesagne include the ornate Chiesa di Sant’Anna , Chiesa Matrice Parrocchia Tutti i Santi (All Saints Church) and the Ugo Granafei Archeological Museum (with Roman mosaics, housed in an 11th century castle). For a meal, I can recommend Osteria del Leone . Search for hotels in Mesagne (Booking.com).

The Adriatic Coast

The Adriatic coast is characterised by clifftop towns, rocky coves, sandy beaches and a string of ancient watchtowers. Coastal towns I can definitely recommend for a visit or a short stay include Polignano a Mare and Monopoli.

Polignano a Mare

Polignano a Mare can trace its roots back to the 4th century BC when Greek settlers founded the settlement of Neapolis. These days, the town is popular amongst tourists who come to visit its historic centre, perched precariously on the cliffs overlooking the Adriatic Sea, and enjoy its beaches. Search for hotels in Polignano a Mare (Booking.com).

Monopoli has a charming historic centre (don’t miss the Baroque-style Monopoli Cathedral ) with a beautiful seafront promenade.

In addition to its 16th century castle and defensive walls, the seafront also features a lovely sandy beach, perfect for a dip after a wander around the town. One restaurant I can recommend for lunch or dinner is il Guazetto in the old town. If you plan to stay in this area, consider Masseria Torrepietra , with its beautiful rooms and outdoor pool. Search for hotels in Monopoli.

This stretch of the Adriatic coastline is quite rocky, with a sprinkling of sandy beaches, coves and villages such as Cozze , Mola di Bari , Torre Canne , Savelletri and Villanova. If you’re dropping by Torre Canne, I recommend a meal at Vico Pescatori or grab the famous octopus sandwich at La Baia .

The Ionian coast

The largest town on the Ionian coast of Central Puglia is Taranto . The city’s history goes back to 700 BC (!) and these days, it’s one of the biggest commercial centres in southern Italy as well as an important base for the Italian Navy. There are several attractions along its long waterfront such as the 15th century Aragon Castle.

You can spend a few hours wandering around the ancient Old Town (Citta Vecchia), which basically has the same layout as in the time it was built in the 1st century by the Byzantines, to enjoy the atmosphere of its maze of streets and lanes. There are also some Greek ruins to be seen such as the Doric columns on Piazza Castello .

Head inland from Taranto to the town of Massafra . This historic town straddles both sides of the San Marco ravine and is worth a stop for lunch and a wander. The town is most famous for its cliff dwellings comprised of homes and cave churches in the ravine. You can also visit the imposing Massafra Castle . For a delicious meal, I recommend Ristorante Vecchie Storie in Via Giuseppe Pisanelli .

Salento, Southern Puglia

The peninsula southeast of the Taranto-Brindisi axis, locally known as Salento , is dominated by the province of Lecce with its capital of the same name. Its long coastline stretches from the Adriatic Sea around the ‘heel’ of Italy to the Ionian Sea, and boasts historic towns, some of the best vineyards in Puglia, sandy beaches and crystal-clear water. Most visitors choose to stay in this region for their beach holidays, and rightfully so. However, look further and you’ll discover charming towns with many historic and artistic treasures, and an addictive laid-back lifestyle.

The capital of the province of Lecce , the city of Lecce is often called the ‘Florence of the South’ due to the abundance of Baroque architecture in its historic centre. In my book, Lecce is the most beautiful city in Puglia and an absolute must-visit!

The city can trace its history back to Roman times – remnants from this age include the Roman amphitheatre . The other attractions in Lecce include the Duomo (Cathedral), Basilica di Santa Croce , Porta Napoli and Church of San Giovanni Battista . Read more about things to see in Lecce (including a suggested walking route)

You can choose to stay along the coast to enjoy the province’s stunning beaches and visit Lecce on a day trip, or you can stay in Lecce for 1-2 nights to truly appreciate its historic gems. If you enjoy cooking, I highly recommend joining this Puglia cooking course in Lecce.

There are several gorgeous accommodations in the city I can recommend such as Palazzo de Noha , Dimora Charleston and Palazzo Lecce . Search for hotels in Lecce (Booking.com).

Less than 50km from Lecce lies the town of Casarano. Founded in the 1st century BC, Casarano comprises a maze of atmospheric streets and lanes lined by baroque palaces, with their hidden courtyards, and ancient churches that house beautiful religious artwork. The Church of Santa Maria della Croce, one of Puglia’s oldest, houses amazing mosaics and frescoes.

A short drive southwest of Lecce lies Nardò , an absolutely charming town. It was an important town in the Byzantine Empire until the 15th century. These days, it’s a quiet place but with a wealth of stunning Baroque architecture!

The best thing to do in Nardò is to simply stroll around its quiet streets, discover its Baroque gems and have a meal at one of its excellent restaurants. The focal point of the town is the lovely Piazza Salandra . Other places of interest include the Catedrale di Santa Maria Assunta and Chiesa di San Domenico .

Gallipoli is believed to have been founded by the Greeks and through the centuries, the town was conquered by a succession of powers including the Byzantines and the Normans. In the 18th century, Gallipoli was home to the largest olive oil market in the Mediterranean. From its ports, ships laden with olive oil sailed to major European cities where the oil was used for lighting. It is said that olive oil from Gallipoli lit the streets of London before the advent of the electric bulb.

The old town is situated on a little island and is connected to the mainland by a 16th century bridge. This part of town features an impressive castle (built by the Byzantines in the 13th century) and equally impressive fortification walls and towers. Behind the castle lies a maze of picturesque streets filled with quaint shops, cafés and restaurants, as well as historic churches, convents and palaces.

Despite its small size, Gallipoli is packed with historic and cultural treasures, and it has a dazzling sandy beach right at its doorstep. Important sights include the Sant Agata Cathedral and the Santa Maria della Purità church .Read more about things to see in Gallipoli .

You can easily spend a few days here while you explore the town and enjoy the nearby beaches. One hotel I absolutely love in Gallipoli is I Bastioni San Domenico ! Search for hotels in Gallipoli (Booking.com).

This spectacular town overlooks the stunning turquoise waters of the Adriatic Sea. Explore the historic promenade and discover the town’s rich history (that goes back to the 8th century B.C.!). Be sure to visit the Cathedral (with its floor mosaics, frescoes and crypt) and the Aragonese Castle . Read more about things to do in Otranto .

Places to eat in Otranto I can recommend include Vicolo Matto (seafood, and the deserts are amazing too!) and Ristorante La Pignata . A short drive outside Otranto, surrounded by olive groves, you’ll find the superb Ristorante Il Diavolicchio Goloso .

Accommodations in the town centre I can recommend are Palazzo Papaleo and Palazzo de Mori (the first building on the left in the photo below). In the outskirts of Otranto, check out Masseria Bandino and Masseria dei Monaci . Search for hotels in Otranto (Booking.com).

Salento beaches

Southern Puglia has some of the best beaches in southern Italy. Here, you’ll find long stretches of fine, white or golden sand, lapped by crystal-clear turquoise water. Some of the best beaches can be found at or near Torre dell’Orso/Sant’Andrea , Otranto , Baia dei Turchi , Maldive del Salento and Porto Cesareo . Search for hotels in Porto Cesareo (Booking.com).

The rocky cliffs along the east coast also feature some beautiful natural rock formations such as Le Due Sorelle (the ‘Two Sisters’), the collapsed sea cave of Grotta della Poesia , the sea stacks of Torre Sant’Andrea and the sea caves near Santa Maria di Leuca . At Marina Serra , you’ll find a natural swimming pool, with crystalline water, surrounded by rocky cliffs and watched over by the ruins of the Torre Palane .

Northern Puglia

The Gargano peninsula in northern Puglia protrudes into the Adriatic Sea and consists of a mountainous massif, sandy beaches, limestone cliffs, age-old forests and several outlying islands. A large part of the peninsula is occupied by the Gargano National Park (the most extensive national park in Italy), where visitors can enjoy hikes through the beautiful forests. The 140km coastline, lapped by crystalline waters, has dramatic cliffs interspersed with white, sandy beaches and charming fishing towns.

The first town visitors encounter as they approach Gargano is Manfredonia . From here, it’s a short drive to the expansive beaches of Mattinata , a great place to base yourself. I stayed at Hotel Residence Il Porto , which I absolutely loved! The rooms were comfortable and offered stunning views of the coast and sea below. Search for hotels in Mattinata (Booking.com).

Places to visit on the Gargano Peninsula

I recommend spending a few days on the peninsula to explore the flora and fauna of the national park, as well as to enjoy the beaches, charming towns and two UNESCO World Heritage sites: Vico del Gargano and the Sanctuary of San Michele in Monte Sant’Angelo . Beaches I visited include Spiaggia di Vignanotica ( map ), a pebble beach with crystal-clear water set against a spectacular backdrop of white cliffs; the nearby Mattinatella beach; and Spiaggia di San Nicola ( map ), an arc of fine sand set in a bay with trabucco eateries and beach facilities.

Look out for the trabucchi , wooden structures used by fishermen which are now protected historical monuments, as you drive along the northern coast. Some of them have been converted into restaurants, making it an unforgettable seaside lunch experience.

Towns which shouldn’t be missed include Vieste (built on a rocky promontory and flanked by two sandy beaches), Vico del Gargano (a UNESCO World Heritage listed medieval town bursting with charm), Monte Sant’ Angelo (listed together with the Sanctuary of Monte Sant’ Angelo as UNESCO World Heritage sites) and Peschici (a little town perched on rocky cliffs above the blue sea). Search for hotels in Vieste (Booking.com).

Places to visit on the way to Gargano

If you’re heading to Gargano from southern/central Puglia, consider a stop at the historic Castel del Monte , an imposing 13th century citadel, and a lunch stop at Trani , a quaint fishing village with a lively promenade.

Gravina in Puglia

I also recommend a 1-2 night stop in Gravina in Puglia , near Matera. Perched on the edge of a ravine, this ancient town is famous for its Roman bridge (used in scenes of the James Bond movie, ‘No Time to Die’), cave dwellings, underground network of tunnels and caves, and its beautiful Cathedral . Gravina in Puglia is an absolute delight to explore! Read more about things to see in Gravina in Puglia .

Restaurants in Gravina in Puglia I can recommend include Osteria Radici , Osteria 1881 and 13 Volte (with a stunning underground cave setting).

In Gravina in Puglia, I stayed at B&B Sul Ponte , which is a stone’s throw from the Roman bridge. The Deluxe Double room has two balconies with partial views of the bridge, and a massive bathroom! Search for other accommodations in Gravina in Puglia .

Another town I can recommend for a (lunch) stop is Altamura . Located on the main road to Matera, Altamura is a bustling walled town with an impressive Cathedral. If you’re looking for a lunch spot, check out Ristorante Tre Archi ! And ask for Pane di Altamura (a bread that the town is famous for).

Matera, Basilicata

Matera is situated in the adjacent region of Basilicata and if you’re visiting central Puglia, I highly recommend spending a few days in this extraordinary city. Wedged between the ‘heel’ and the ‘foot’ of southern Italy, Matera is one of the oldest continuously-inhabited human settlements in the world, with a history that goes back (perhaps) 7,000 years!

The cityscape is somewhat ‘Biblical’ and strolling around its cobblestone streets is like taking a step back in time. Despite its age, or maybe because of it, there are many things to do and see in Matera, making any visit a wondrous experience. Matera has been the decor of several movies including James Bond’s ‘No Time To Die’ in 2021. Read more about things to do in Matera (including places to stay, restaurants and cafés).

I suggest a stay of at least two nights to truly appreciate this enchanting city. Search for hotels in Matera (Booking.com).

15-day ‘Best of Puglia’ itinerary (including Matera)

This 14 night/15 day self-drive itinerary takes you past the best places to visit in Puglia as described above. You can start the trip in Bari or Brindisi and follow the entire itinerary or concentrate on 1-2 areas, depending on your interests or the length of your stay. I’ve included a suggested length of stay per place/area. The itinerary is as follows:

Day 1-2: Bari (1 night)

Day 2-6: Central Puglia (4 nights) which includes the Itria Valley and the Adriatic coast. Suggested base: Alberobello or Martina Franca.

Day 6-10: Southern Puglia (4 nights) which includes the city of Lecce and the towns/beaches of Otranto, Gallipoli and Porto Cesareo. Suggested base: Lecce, Otranto, Nardo and/or Gallipoli.

Day 10-12: Matera (2 nights), with a stop in nearby Gravina in Puglia

Day 12-15: Gargano peninsula (3 nights). Suggested base: Mattinata and/or Vieste.

Day 15: back to Bari Airport

The best time to visit Puglia

My favourite months to visit Puglia are late-April, May and early-June, and September till October. The temperatures during these months are around 20+ degrees Celsius; perfect for walking and sightseeing. These months are also less busy and accommodation prices are lower.

I would advise to avoid the summer months (July – August). Temperatures around/above 40 degrees Celsius are not uncommon, it’s very busy and prices tend to be inflated.

The winter months are generally not advisable either. It can get (very) cold, with freezing temperatures and snow in the higher elevations. In addition, many tourist facilities, including accommodations and restaurants are closed during this period.

See my photo essay on reasons I love Italy

Find your accommodations in puglia, more information on puglia.

Visit the website of Puglia Tourism for more information.

Check out the Velvet Escape Travel Planning Resources page.

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51 Responses

I visited Puglia about ten years ago on a two week trip from where I live in Central Italy. I loved Alberabello and Locorotondo in particular. I bought some great pottery at reasonable prices. We went late in the year which meant it was not so hot but also far fewer tourists.

Hi Denise, Thank you for your lovely comment – it sure made my day! 🙂 I’m glad you found my guide useful! 3 weeks is certainly enough to see Puglia at a leisurely pace. I agree with you about setting up base in several places and making day trips from each place. That’s basically how I explored Puglia myself. I’ve never been to Kefalonia but I’ll certainly get in touch if I ever head that way. Thanks once again, happy trip planning and have a wonderful trip to Puglia!

Cheers, Keith

Thank you so much! I have been researching for a 3 week trip to Puglia and can now work from your guide! We will try to base ourselves in 3 or 4 places and do day trips which will hopefully be very relaxing and cover most areas? Your generosity in sharing all your insights is truly appreciated. We live in the Ionian Island of Kefalonia, Greece, so if you ever want any suggestions here, I’d be delighted to help! Many thanks, Denise

I visited Puglia two years ago on a one week trip but would love to go back for a longer stay. It was one of the best holidays ever. I absolutely loved Ostuni and Martina Franca. Ostuni one of the best towns in Puglia to get lost wandering the alleys, climbing staircases, and dipping under archways. I also loved browsing the stalls of local fruit and vegetables at the Saturday market.

Hi Dorothy, Thanks for your lovely comment. It’s indeed a great idea to go either earlier in the year (spring, early-summer) or in autumn. All my trips there were made during these periods.

Hi Martina, I’m glad you find my Puglia post helpful! 🙂 One week is a bit short but I’m sure you’ll enjoy it (and will return soon for more!). Have a great trip!

wow, what an amazing post! <3 i can't wait to our first visit to Puglia in july. never been there but already in love with this beautiful italian region! one week will be unsatisfyingly short to explore it, but one has to begin somehow 🙂 thanks a lot!

I visited with my husband and I love it, especially the food! We were lucky enough to visit Bari. I hope to visit it again and explore it more deeply. Wonderful memories.

I’m glad my Puglia guide was useful! Thank you for returning to leave a comment.

Best wishes, Keith

Hey, your article was very beneficial to me when I visit puglia. Thanks for sharing.

Hi Alex, Thanks so much for your feedback! I’m so happy to hear that you had a great time in Puglia while following my itinerary. Your comment has definitely made my day! 🙂

Hi Keith, I followed your Puglia itinerary last september and saw almost everything you described within 3 weeks time, was truly great and fantastic. Absolutely loved it. Thanks again for all the useful tips.

Matera view is just mesmerizing.. Thank you for the wonderful post

Hi Scott, Thank you for your wonderful comment. Puglia is indeed magnetic! I’m so glad that my Puglia guide has been helpful. Have a great trip in September and I hope you find a gorgeous property!

Keith: Your insight and detail of the Puglia region is intoxicating. I have visited nearly 40 countries in the world, but there is something about Puglia that is magnetic. I visited Lecce, and the Val d’Atria in 2015 and was so taken by Puglia that I took Italian language lessons in the hope that I would return to Puglia, speak with the locals, and enjoy the region even more. My wife and I are traveling to Puglia in late-September ’21 and are beginning the process of identifying modest properties somewhere in the region so that we may become more frequent visitors. Thank you for your recommendations as they will come in handy when we visit in a few months.

That was an amazing guide, Keith. I cannot wait for the international borders to open soon.

Hi Keith, I found this blog very interesting about Puglia Guide as you have explained in detail, but especially I liked about coastline with cliffs, beaches, and charming towns. Thank you!

[…] Read more about the best places to visit in Puglia. […]

[…] Read about the best places to visit in Puglia. […]

Hi Jackie, Thanks for your lovely comment! I totally agree – how can anyone get enough of Italy? I’m so glad you enjoyed my Puglia guide and I hope you get to see those beautiful trulli houses one day soon!

Your post has me longing for Italy! I can’t wait until we are able to travel from the US… I have so much on my Italy bucket list to finish, including getting to Alberobello to see its famous trulli houses! On my last visit, I covered quite a lot of ground, but not nearly enough. (How does one ever get enough of Italy?) Thanks for the virtual tour of Puglia. It’s such a beautiful region.

Thank you for your awesome thoughts from your travel diary. After reading this article I have decided that my next tour Destination will be Italy.

I hope so too! Stay safe.

Wow… Hope we can travel after the Corona days are over…

What a beautiful place I discovered after reading your blog. I hope to get there soon as we get over with the pandemic crisis

These are stunning photos and this place is really wow!!

Puglia is really nice. just waiting for the moment to visit it. By the way, the story is superbly presented over here.

[…] my guide for the best places to visit in Puglia, […]

I remember last year when I was on my business tour in San Severo (Italy) unfortunately I missed these beautiful place but next time I will definitely explore. Thanks for sharing your Blog. Your blogs Inspired me a lot.

Nice post very good article. and very helpful

Hi Keith, this list is awesome. I really want this all in my bucket list…Cheers from far away Taipei!

he leido tarde este maravilloso relato de unas de las regiones mas bonitas que he conocido de italia,estuvimos 7 dias y me falto conocer bari y brindisi fasano y cisticernino,opte por otros pueblos,pero siempre se vuelve.

Hi, I have a plan for my next vacation, recently I got married and I want to enjoy my honeymoon in another country after reading your blog I decided to go Puglia. Thanks for sharing this information.

I heard this name Puglia for the first time. I didn’t know that such place exists in Italy. Thanks for sharing.

[…] If you’re visiting Matera, I also recommend exploring the neighbouring region of Puglia. Check out my guide to the best places to visit in Puglia. […]

Thanks for your comment George! Glad to have brought back wonderful memories. 🙂

Puglia is such a wonderful destination! I still remember strolling around Bari and Lecce. Especially Bari is a very vibrant city, full of friendly people and fantastic food. I hope I can return soon. Thanks for bringing back so many nice memories 🙂

Hi Renuka, Puglia is fabulous isn’t it? Shame you didn’t like Bari. I absolutely loved the winding streets and alleys of the old town. Hope you get a chance to go back and see more of Puglia (and add Matera too!).

I visited Puglia on my honeymoon, and both my husband and I love it, especially the food! I didn’t like Bari. I found quite non-European. I loved Ostuni, Monopoli and Lecce. I hope to visit it again and explore it more deeply.

Great post! Thanks for sharing this amazing post.

I was lucky enough to visit Brindisi and Bari, hope to go there again! Thanks for sharing!

I heard this name Puglia for the first time.I didn’t even know that such place exists in Italy.This guide proved to a piece of gem for me as it help me to choose my next travel destination.

You’ve truly jotted down the best of Puglia…loved reading it throughout. Thanks for sharing.

Oh yes! Great tip! I had some too in Matera and it’s so delicious!

Amazing blog. Very well explained. The pictures look scintillating, especially that of the white city. Thanks for sharing.

Also don’t forget to taste Pane di Matera, with crunchy crust with creamy center ? Matera’s traditional local food.

[…] Check out my ultimate guide to Puglia. […]

[…] Search for hotels in the Itria Valley. Check out my ultimate guide to Puglia. […]

[…] If you’re planning to hire a car and explore more of Puglia before/after a visit to Bari, I recommend picking up/returning your car at the airport. At the airport, you can easily take the train or a taxi to/from the city and this saves you from having to navigate the city’s busy streets and finding a parking space. Check out my guide of the best places to visit in Puglia. […]

[…] And if you choose to hire a car, spend some time exploring the regions of Basilicata and Puglia. One beautiful place to visit in Basilicata is the town of Castelmezzano. Should you be travelling from Bari to Matera, plan some time in the nearby Itria Valley in Puglia. This area, with its famous ‘trulli’ houses and whitewashed towns, is simply gorgeous! Check out my guide to the best places in Puglia. […]

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Puglia travel blog — the fullest puglia travel guide for first-timers.

Puglia is a small region located at the heel of Italy’s boot. Along with the birthplace of Renaissance Tuscany, Puglia is one of the most beautiful destinations of Italy with picturesque towns and villages, the Italy’s most beautiful beaches. It is also famous for the two tree and plant that have become iconic: Olives and grapes at highest quality. Many Puglia specialties come from them. However, not only famous for its olive production and famous premium wines, Puglia also has many more reasons to urge visitors to come. So, is Puglia Italy worth visiting, what to do in Puglia and how to plan a perfect budget trip to Puglia for the first-time? Let’s check out our Puglia travel blog (Puglia blog, Puglia Italy travel blog) with the fullest Puglia travel guide (how to get to Puglia, Puglia guide, Puglia Italy travel guide, Puglia tourist guide) from how to get there, best time to come, where to stay, best places to visit, what to eat and top things to do in Puglia as well as suggested Puglia itinerary to find out the answer!

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When it comes to Italy, surely in your head will immediately appear cliché names like Venice, Rome or Milan. But the boot-shaped country has much more to offer than that. Have you ever heard of the land of Apulia or Puglia, located at the “heel” of the Italian peninsula? To many tourists, this name may not really widely know, but in Italy, Puglia is the most desirable place to visit. Surely, after reading this sharing of Puglia travel blog, you will want to pack your suitcase and explore this wonderful remote land.

Puglia is a “heel” region of the southern peninsular section of Italy and is home to historic towns that are thousands of years old, diverse landscapes, great food, and owns some of the best beaches in the south of the country.

Puglia travel blog: Overview of Puglia

Where is the Puglia region?

As I shared in the article sharing my experience of visiting Bari , Puglia is the geographical region located in the southeasternmost tip of Italy. In the past, along with Venice, Puglia was located on Italy’s sea trade route with Eastern European countries and the Balkans. Today, when economic development is more concentrated in the northern regions, the name Puglia is somewhat less well known, many liken Puglia to the Italian Far East, a name that evokes remoteness and mystery.

Located in Southern Italy and right at the heel of the boot-shaped country, the Puglia region has a true Mediterranean beauty with blue sea water, immense olive groves interspersed with Trulli mushroom houses and pretty little white towns. Therefore, Puglia is a very hot tourist destination in the summer in Italy.

This is also one of my favorite regions in Italy. In total I went to Puglia 2 times. Once 6 years ago only used public transport and mainly sightseeing. As for the August trip this year, I went by car from Rome, mainly going to the beach for 7 days and combining with 3 more days of sightseeing around the region.

Although there are a few villages that I have been to twice, but every time I go, I also like it because it is so beautiful. I highly recommend that you go to Puglia once if you can.

Puglia can be divided into 3 parts: North, Central and South. Puglia’s famous attractions are mostly concentrated in the South and Central, from Bari stretching down to Lecce and divided into 2 areas: Valle d’Itria and Salento.

Puglia travel blog: Valle d’Itria  (Itria Valley)

The Itria Valley, located between the provinces of Bari , Taranto and Brindisi, is characterized by beautiful white villages, irresistible delicious food and especially “trulli”, a very typical conical stone house. That is why this area is also known as the  valley of trulli.

Dotted with trulli houses along both sides of the road are olive trees and the stone walls are arranged ingeniously without the use of any adhesive. In Italian this type of wall is called “muro a secco”.

The most famous villages in Itria Valley are Alberobello, Ostuni and Locorotondo. Because it is located near Bari – the capital of Puglia, so you can combine visiting Bari and Polignano a Mare. There are also Zoosafari and Castellana caves, so it is very suitable for families traveling with children.

The Salento Peninsula is also known as the heel of the Italian boot. Stretching from the southern province of Taranto to the entire province of Lecce. The western Salento is bordered the Ionian Sea and to the east by the Adriatic Sea. The two seas meet and intersect at Santa Maria di Leuca, the southernmost point of the peninsula.

It is because of this very unique topography that Salento has many of the most beautiful beaches in the region. Quite a few beaches are called very beautiful names such as Maldive del Salento, Caraibi del Salento… because of the clear blue water.

In addition to the beaches, Salento also has no shortage of beautiful attractions such as:  Lecce, a city characterized by baroque architecture, or small coastal towns like Otranto, Gallipoli, Santa Maria di Leuca.

Is Puglia italy worth visiting: Why should you visit Puglia?

The north of Puglia is associated with the wine-producing culture, while the south has a strong connection with traditional Roman-Greek culture. Thanks to those factors, it has created a special land, attracting tourists from all over the world. It can be said that in terms of history, poetic aspects, peace or bold Italian culture, there is no land that can overcome Puglia. Here are some reasons why you should visit Puliga.

Rich history and architecture

Puglia was once the gateway to Greece and the East. Therefore, this is the ideal land for those who want to learn about culture and history. The region also retains many ancient vestiges of history, culture, tradition and spirituality.

Coming to Puglia you can satisfy all your curiosity and discovery interests. From ancient history to the Medieval and Baroque eras. From castles along the coast to small art villages. Where craft masterpieces begin, stunning views and old quarters. Here like creating the door to enter different civilizations.

Beautiful limestone houses with conical roofs, called Trulli. Very common here, and dates back to the 15th century. Roman, Greco and Messapian remains are also found side by side here. Lecce city with beautiful baroque architecture and considered as an art treasure.

Friendly, generous locals

Although not many people in Puglia can speak English, they are always smiling and ready to help visitors as much as possible. They can guide you on how to get around, places to visit and absolutely do not disturb or cheat. A little friendly Italian words like “ciao” or “bello”, “gustoso” is definitely not difficult for you but makes them happier when welcoming strangers from far away. Who knows, you might learn how to make pizza from an Italian?

Peaceful countryside

If the streets of Puglia were peaceful, the countryside is also absolute peace. There is nothing more enjoyable than cycling through unnamed small dirt roads, flanked by grape fields or weeds, breathing in the countryside fresh air. Even if you scream, it will only startle the birds.

Slow living pace

Puglia is exactly the place for tourists to live slowly. No one is in a hurry here, of course you have to blend in with that atmosphere. Restaurants, coffee shops, restaurants are almost only heard whispering and many places are closed for lunch break. Sipping a cup of coffee and gazing at the streets is perhaps more than enough to slow down after days of hurrying.

Great cuisine

Food is the reason that you cannot miss when coming to Puglia. This land is developed for agriculture so it is an ideal place for fresh meals from local produce. The food here is not expensive, they are reasonably priced. In particular, your meal cannot be without olives and wine – the prides of the Puglia people.

Dreamy alleys and cobbled streets

Most of the streets in Puglia are a maze, small and super winding alleys but not making visitors feel tired and annoyed. They enjoy wandering the cobbled nooks and crannies to discover a forgotten world.

Other reasons

Puglia is the land with the longest coastline in Italy, along with a tradition of maritime trade, so Apulia has many ancient towns, villages and beautiful Mediterranean-style ports.

Puglia shares the Adriatic Sea with Greece and is not far from North Africa, so the architectural style here is influenced by Eastern Europe and Greece very strongly.

Southern Italy’s warm, sunny climate creates a generous, open-minded and not as touristy as northern Italian cities.

Referring to Apulia, people immediately think of unique cultural heritages such as the ancient town of Alberobello, the white city of Ostuni, the open-air architecture museum of Lecce or the once-resounding Bari capital.

When to visit and how long should you travel to Puglia?

The not good time to avoid traveling to Puglia is 2 weeks in mid-August, because this is extremely crowded with tourists due to the Ferragosto holiday season. If you like the hustle and bustle, no problem. However, the other problems that come with it are: difficulties in finding a beach spot or a seat at restaurant, and the cost of room renting or sun loungers at the beach is also higher.

Except August, it’s ok to come to Puglia every other month. If you want to go to the beach but avoid crowds, you should go around June and July.

The ideal travel time in Puglia in my opinion is 7 days. The more time you have, the better you will experience, because there are indeed plenty of places to go. The first time I went for about 4 or 5 days, but almost only to visit the main places but did not deeply explore. This time going for 10 days, I feel a lot better.

Puglia travel guide: How to get to Puglia?

Taking a plane is the most convenient way to get to Puglia. The region’s two main airports are located in Bari and Brindisi. Cheap airlines like Ryanair or Easyjet all operate flight routes here, so you just have to work hard to find cheap prices on Google Flights, Skyscanner or Kayak. There was a time when I found a ticket with only… €9 from Rome.

If you depart from Rome or southern Italy you can consider taking the train to Bari. But if you come from cities in the North or Central Italy, you should… forget this option, because the time on the train can be nearly half a day.

As I shared in the previous article to visit Bari , you can take the train or plane to Bari, then stay one night and the next day visit other cities in Puglia. Another less common way is to take a bus. One bus company that is mentioned a lot is Onbus but I have not experienced it because I see Puglia as a rather remote area, so the bus ride is quite long and not as comfortable as a train or plane. Unless you are in cities near Bari, use this vehicle.

Puglia Italy travel guide: Getting around Puglia

If possible, you should rent a car or self-drive to Puglia to be more flexible about the itinerary and save time. Self-driving also helps you to visit more closely the Itria valley or beautiful beaches that are difficult to reach by bus.

Taking public transport in Puglia is still fine, because a few years ago when I was a student, I only took buses and trains. However, your travel time and schedule will not be very flexible.

Puglia blog: Getting from Bari to Ostuni, Polignano al Mare and Alberobello

From Bari to other places like Polignano a Mare, Alberobello, Locorotondo, Ostuni, Lecce you can check train timetable and tickets on Omio or  Trenitalia . And from Lecce to the towns and beaches there are buses of STP , especially the summer service called   Salentoinbus  will have more trips.

From Bari to Ostuni you can take the regional train, you can look up the departure time and buy tickets online here . Travel time is about 2 hours 30 minutes.

From Ostuni to Polignano a Mare is the same, but you should note that Polignano a Mare is located in the middle of the road from Bari to Ostuni, so it is common for you to visit Ostuni first and then on the way back to visit Polignano. It takes about 30 minutes by train from Ostuni via Polignano. From Bari to Alberobello also take the train, travel time is 2 hours.

Puglia blog: Where to stay?

If you want to live like a local in Puglia, you have to experience the form of tourism at the farms, also known as Masserie in Italian. Guests will stay in houses with Mediterranean-style gardens with olive trees, rooms painted with white walls with minimalist décor and luxurious swimming pools just like hotels. You can check it out on Agoda or Booking or Airbnb.

In addition, in Alberobello you also have the opportunity to spend the night in trulli mushroom houses, the type of traditional conical stone houses with spires only found in this town.

To avoid moving and changing accommodation too much, you should only choose a maximum of 2 places to book your hotel: One in the Bari and Itria valley, one in the Salento. The distance between attractions in the same area is not far, so you only need to book in one place to be able to easily travel to other places.

In agricultural areas such as the Itria valley there are many masserias, i.e. farms whose dwellings have been converted into hotels or B&Bs.

Bari and Valle d’Itria (Puglia Italy travel blog)

If you travel by public transport, it is best to book a hotel in Bari. If you have a car, you can choose a hotel or B&B in the trulli area like the villages near Fasano.

My family booked 3 nights at B&B Salita delle Pere . The feeling of sleeping in a trulli in the quiet country atmosphere is really relaxing and unforgettable. The breakfast cakes are all handmade by the lady owner, and the cow’s milk is also from her farm. After spending 3 nights here, I feel relaxed after 7 days of jostling with tons of people at the sea. In short, very good value for money.

Some good hotels in Bari you can refer to

• The Nicolaus Hotel ( Agoda , Booking )
• Hi Hotel Bari ( Agoda , Booking )
• Mercure Villa Romanazzi Carducci Bari ( Agoda , Booking )
• Parco Dei Principi Hotel Congress & Spa ( Booking )
• iH Hotels Bari Oriente ( Agoda , Booking )
• Zodiacus ( Agoda , Booking )
• iH Hotels Bari Grande Albergo delle Nazioni ( Agoda , Booking )
• Hotel City Bari ( Agoda , Booking )

Check out more top and best hotels in Bari on Agoda.com or Booking.com .

Lecce is the largest city in the area and has a very busy nightlife, so you should book a hotel here ( Agoda , Booking ). Those who have a car should stay outside the old downtown area with a bit ride or check the hotel’s parking carefully, but finding parking in the center is quite difficult.

Distance from Lecce to other places:

• Lecce – Gallipoli and nearby beaches (Porto Cesareo, Punta Prosciutto, Punta della Suina..): 35-40 minutes.
• Lecce – Otranto and nearby beaches (Torre dell’Orso, Alimini, Baia dei Turchi..): 35-40 minutes.
• Lecce – Santa Maria di Leuca and nearby beaches (Maldive del Salento, Lido Marini..): 1 hour.

Puglia italy travel blog: Where to go, what to do in Puglia?

If you are a history enthusiast, Puglia is the paradise for you to indulge in that pleasure. The city of Bari , the capital of Puglia, is also home to many Baroque mansions. The Old Quarter is located on a peninsula jutting into the sea, mainly built of white limestone. Small alleys, alleys and ancient domes. Standing from any corner of Bari, you can easily see churches and monasteries.

More interested, you can go to Otranto to admire the church of Santa Maria Annunziata – the most important Catholic cathedral of the city. The floor of the church is completely covered with mosaics dating from the 11th century, fully reproducing the images from the Bible. On the right wing of the hall is a place to remember those who died in the massacre by the Turks in 1480. Today, the skulls of the victims are placed in a glass cabinet right at the church pedestal, making many people feel creepy.

The White City of Ostuni

Ostuni is called La Citta Bianca (the white city) because of its white houses. Strolling these streets is one of the relaxing moments. The city is full of cute cafes, ice cream parlor, pastry shops and shops with local products. Pottery shops sell pumo di fiore (ornamental ceramics) with all kinds of colors and sizes. You will see this egg-shaped flower bud all over Puglia, acting as a symbol of prosperity and fertility.

In Ostuni, there is a town that fascinates visitors with its Greek beauty: whitewashed houses, scattered from the plains to the hills. Even hotels in this area are painted white to blend in with the surrounding residential area. The most famous accommodation is La Sommita hotel, built in the 16th century, which was originally a castle of the indigenous people. From here you can look out over the sea and enjoy meals right under the castle dome as a guest. During the day, walking on the labyrinthine streets of the city, don’t forget to stop by the bar to sip some real Puglia wine to be alert enough to find your way home.

Ostuni located on the Adriatic coast, famous for its white paint color of the whole city. If you’ve ever dreamed of visiting the Greek island of Santorini, Ostuni will surely fascinate you. In the past, the trade of Italy and Greece was very active, the Greek community used to live in Puglia and their mark was the characteristic white painted towns. Under the golden sun like honey, the deep blue sky no less the color of the sea in the distance, Ostuni appeared proud but very simple. To exalt that pride white color, houses and streets also seem to be decorated as minimally as possible. Ostuni is still not very crowded, so we feel even more small in the space of the city. We stopped for lunch at the fairy-tale Trattoria Fave e Fogghje restaurant/pub and inhaled the distant scent of Greece across the Adriatic.

Polignano a Mare

The town of Polignano a Mare is one of the beautiful towns in Puglia known for its stunning beach with clear blue water, craggy white buildings and a charming beach, Polignano a Mare is one of the towns. you must visit when visiting Puglia Italy.

Perched on a craggy cliff overlooking the Adriatic Sea, looking even more blue from above, Polignano a Mare is just a small town but steals your soul in a jiffy by lovely streets and houses decorated as if its owners were all poets, or at least artists. This is where Italians come to watch the sea, swimming and enjoy the pleasant atmosphere of a Mediterranean afternoon. Polignano is like a short poem, but ecstatically beautiful.

Heading to the square in Polignano al Mare, stop at Il Super Mago del Gelo for a special coffee – their unique concoction with lemon, liqueur and espresso. If not, you can also try others as they also serve traditional coffee, gelato and pastries.

Alberobello

Alberobello is a super cute town in Puglia, home to tiny houses called trulli that have been listed as a UNESCO heritage site. Trulli are small hut-like houses whose cones look like cute mushrooms. Layers of “mushrooms” lining the small slopes of Alberobello attract the footsteps of any visitor. Shops, restaurants or even churches here are also shaped like mushrooms. The secret to a beautiful photo of trulli is to go to the high hill in the afternoon, when the whole cute city is bathed in the extremely romantic sunset.

The houses were built of stone to be easily disassembled to pay less taxes in the 19th century and are now protected by UNESCO law. You can see them scattered throughout the countryside, but you will see these houses one after another in Alberobello.

This is probably a city you must visit once in your life, because it is only one in the world and has become a new highlight of Italian tourism next to the familiar Rome and Venice. Alberobello is world famous for its mushroom-shaped stone houses (conical roofs). This is not a scene from a mythical movie, this is Southern Italy full of surprises for you. Alberobello for me is somewhat less emotional than the two cities above due to quite a lot of tourists. On Alberobello’s holiday, it is packed with tourists because Alberobello is beautiful and unique. You know how, sometimes we have to accept to share beautiful things with many people, not just keep them for ourselves.

Puglia on all three sides is surrounded by the sea, making it really attractive to tourists who love the sea. The sea water here has a beautiful blue color, the color that makes people stare endlessly. You can easily find great beaches for swimming, photography or simply looking at. No need to go too far, the capital Bari can meet the needs of most visitors. Here you can also shop, admire the large-scale shipyards under the blue sky.

The beaches have beach clubs offering loungers, lounges, sunbeds and umbrellas. Costs vary depending on the beach club’s amenities and time of year, but usually around 20 euros for two sun chairs and umbrellas. Most of these places will have a mini-bar and bathroom. Lido Morelli are huts and a casual bar while Coccaro Beach Club offers a more luxurious experience.

If you have time visit the south near Otranto, there is a sinkhole there called Grotto della Poesia. It is like a unique natural swimming pool.

Stay at Masseria or Trulli

You might be surprised at how many accommodation options you have in Puglia. From unforgettable masserias to charming airbnbs with terraces, there is something new for every preference and budget. Almapetra Trulli Resort offers 2-bedroom trulli houses with swimming pools and communal barbecue areas. Starting at around 100 euros a night, it’s a great value option for families.

Or choose Masseria San Francesco for an upscale accommodation with thoughtful interiors, a pool and a lively bar.

Souvenirs:Surely, pretty Alberobello Trulli made of porcelain or stone. Decorative ceramics with Fichi d’India cactus is also a beautiful choice for you.

Puglia travel blog: What to eat?

Puglia has both an agricultural area and a sea, so the cuisine is very rich. Therefore, there is no shortage of specialties from breakfast, street food, to meat and seafood, to suit everyone’s taste.

Delicious food in Puglia

• Pasticciotto: A day in Puglia will start with an energetic breakfast with pasticciotto and almond milk iced coffee. Pasticciotto is a very popular cream-filled cake in the region.
• Puccia:  This is a round and flat bread, very suitable for a quick lunch. In addition, in Puglia, there are many other types of street food such as fried foods (pittule, pitta, panzerotti), or baked goods (rustico, frisa).
• Bombette: This is the most typical dish of the whole region, especially in the Itria valley. Bombette is pork slices rolled with salt, pepper, cheese then grilled in the oven or on a BBQ grill.
• Riso patate e cozze (tiella barese): Including rice, potatoes and mussels cooked together create the perfect taste. This dish is a specialty in Bari, so anyone who comes to Bari should not miss it.
• Orecchiette con broccoli o cime di rapa (orecchiette with broccoli): Orecchiette is a very popular pasta in Puglia. This dish can be found everywhere, but it is best eaten in Bari. In addition to broccoli tops, you can find orecchiettes with ketchup or meat sauce. Food in each region in Italy is different and each city will have its own specialties. Orecchiette is an ear-shaped pasta commonly found in Puglia. There are even variations of this delicious dish throughout the region. Eating a plate of Pasta Orecchiette is a must try experience when visiting this southern region.
• Burrata is a cheese from Puglia, it’s like a bag made of mozzarella with cream and soft cheese inside. You’ll find burrata on the menu, served with a green salad or with pasta. Burrata is delicious and you won’t find it as fresh unless you are in Puglia.
• Olive Oil: With a history of growing olive over 500 years, you can expect the region of Puglia to have an excellent olive oil. There are more than 60 million olive trees in the region that produce about 40% of the entire Italian olive oil production. Olive groves are an integral part of the Puglia landscape and one of the reasons you should travel here.
• Local wine: Primitivo di Manduria and Negroamaro are two of the many dialects you’ll find on menus in restaurants and eateries here. Red wine is really a staple of the Puglian diet and you can’t visit without trying it.

These are just a few of the highlights, but the list is actually quite long. In Salento you can also find very delicious fresh seafood dishes.

Where to eat

Here are a few places I’ve eaten at and enjoyed very much:

• Martinucci coffee/cake shop . This is a very famous pastry chain in Puglia, almost everywhere. Pasticciotto here has a lot of flavors, not too sweet and the cream filling is so tasty.
• Macelleria e Salumeria di Olimpia di Nicola Semeraro (SP216, Lamie di Olimpia BA): This is a butcher with restaurant business near Alberobello and Locorotondo. Bombette here is soft but very tasty. In Puglia it is very common for a butcher to run its own restaurant. So if you want to eat right, you should choose these restaurants to eat bombette or barbecue.
• Gallipoli Seafood Market: At night, the market stalls have tables and chairs selling fresh seafood to enjoy like aperitivo. The atmosphere here is fun and the seafood looks fresh. If you have the opportunity to visit Gallipoli, you should definitely not miss it.
• La Pastasciutta (Via Vito Tamborrino, Ostuni, BR): The restaurant is located in the center of Ostuni, the pasta is delicious and the price is very cheap.

Puglia itinerary 7 days

We usually take at least 3 days and 2 nights to exploring this region. But it is not enough. A suitable Puglia itinerary is 7 days. The attractions in Puglia are mostly small and can be visited during the day. Even, there are many towns that only take 2 hours to explore it all. The travel distance between places is not far, so it is easy to schedule.

Here is the suggested Puglia travel itinerary for 7 days:

• DAY 1 – Arrive in Bari and visit Bari, the capital of the region.
• DAY 2 – Visit Polignano a Mare, a town built on a beautiful seaside cliff.
• DAY 3 – Visit the famous towns of Alberobello and Locorotondo. Alberobello is the most famous trulli town in the region. The evening in Alberobello is also very beautiful and sparkling. So if you are flexible about time, you can go to Locorotondo in the morning and then go to Alberobello in the afternoon.
• DAY 4 – Morning visit to the white city of Ostuni and after lunch depart for Lecce, the city known as the Southern Florence with beautiful Baroque architecture. At night in Lecce is very crowded and bustling, walking at night here is also very fun.
• DAY 5 – Lecce tour (Can be replaced by Gallipoli/Santa Maria di Leuca if day 4 can visit Lecce).
• DAY 6 – Sightseeing in Otranto (can be combined with the nearby beach and then visit in the evening).
• DAY 7 – Depart for Brindisi to catch the flight, ending the journey.

This is just a suggested Puglia travel itinerary with the main purpose of sightseeing. If you want, you can combine a visit to Matera in the nearby Basilicata region.

If you want to go to the beach more, you should add about 2-3 days. My family last went to August, it was very hot, so most of the day we only went to the beach, only went to visit in the evening to cool down. The last 3 days were just walking around the towns in Valle d’Itria.

Some best day tours, trips, activities and transfer services, tickets in, from and to Bari and Puglia you can refer to

• Private Bari Old City Guided Walking Tour
• Bari City Walk, by Bike or Segway
• Matera Tour from Bari
• Bari Street Food Walking, Bike, or Segway Tour
• Alberobello Walking Tour from Bari
• Castel del Monte Tour from Bari
• Bari City Walking, Bike, or Segway Tour with Pasta Making Experience
• Lecce: Baroque Architecture and Underground Walking Tour
• Polignano a Mare: Speedboat Cruise to Caves with Aperitif
• From Bari: Pasta Experience Walking Tour
• Alberobello: 2-Hour Guided Trulli Tour
• Ostuni: Olive Oil Tasting Tour
• Polignano a Mare: 1.5-Hour Boat Cave Tour
• Alberobello: History Walking Tour with Olive Oil Tasting
• Bari Walking Street Food Tour
• Apulia: Bike Tour through the Treasures of Bari
• Lecce: Walking Tour
• Lecce: Guided Rickshaw Tour
• Bari Rickshaw Street Food Tour
• Bari: Segway Tour & Gelato Tasting
• Bari Walking Tour
• Bari Street Food Tour by Bike
• Bari: Bike-Rickshaw City Tour

Read more Italy guide here .

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Puglia and Basilicata (Lonely Planet Regional Guides) Paperback – 22 Feb. 2008

• Print length 248 pages
• Language English
• Publisher Lonely Planet Publications
• Publication date 22 Feb. 2008
• Dimensions 13.34 x 1.91 x 20.32 cm
• ISBN-10 1741790891
• ISBN-13 978-1741790894
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Product details

• Publisher ‏ : ‎ Lonely Planet Publications; 1st edition (22 Feb. 2008)
• Language ‏ : ‎ English
• Paperback ‏ : ‎ 248 pages
• ISBN-10 ‏ : ‎ 1741790891
• ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-1741790894
• Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 13.34 x 1.91 x 20.32 cm
• 10,636 in Specialty Travel
• 58,083 in Home & Garden (Books)

About the authors

Abigail hole.

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Paula Hardy

Paula Hardy is a travel editor and writer for Lonely Planet guidebooks. She has commissioned and contributed to over 40 guidebooks. When she’s not scooting around Italy, she writes on north and east Africa, contributes to a variety of U.K. newspapers, travel publications and websites. You can find her on instagram @paulahardy.

Olivia Pozzan

As a travel writer, Olivia has researched and written about many of the world's most exotic places. She has authored and co-authored over 20 Lonely Planet guidebooks. Her articles are published in various print magazines and online including the Lonely Planet and BBC websites. Olivia has managed to combine her passion for writing and travel with a career as a veterinarian. In a life filled with adventure she has trekked mountain ranges from the Alps to the Himalayas, worked for an Arabian prince in the Middle East, led a caving expedition in the UAE and exploratory hikes in Oman, and vetted on a camel expedition in the heart of Australia. As a vet she is passionate about animal welfare. Her approach to veterinary medicine integrates alternative therapies with conventional treatments. Her book, Energy Healing for your Dog and Cat, is a practical guide to the use of subtle energy-based healing techniques in animals.

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Puglia itinerary 2024 – a complete travel guide in Puglia for 3, 7 and 14 days

Discover the ultimate Puglia itinerary in this comprehensive guide, showcasing all the things to do in Puglia and the hidden gems of these region. Besides being italo-brasiliani (we both have Italian citizenship), we spent more than two months exploring from the upmost corner of Puglia to the most southern point. And we fell in love with Puglia. The region instantly became our favorite spot in Italy. Now we hope that Puglia becomes your favorite spot in Italy too.

In this itinerary for Puglia , you will find the best ways to explore the “heel of the boot”, whether it’s by renting a car, utilising public transport or an adventurous cycling trip – that was our choice, by the way. Also, read about all the attractions you cannot miss on your itinerary, all the most picturesque beaches and the details that will make your experience perfect, just like ours was.

As you are reading this article, I believe Puglia is already on your travel radar. So let this article be your gateway to an unforgettable journey. And as all unforgettable journey, we will start by creating yours Puglia travel itinerary with all the tips find here.

The Ultimate Puglia Itinerary

• Map of Puglia – understand the region

How to get to Puglia Italy

• How to get around in Puglia (car, bike and train)
• Best cities and attractions in Puglia
• Activities to Puglia to include in your itinerary

Best time to visit Puglia

• Puglia itinerary 7 days / 3 days and 14 days
• What cities to use as a base during your Puglia trip

Map of Puglia in Italy

Let’s start with the question where is Puglia? Puglia is in Southern Italy and is the “heel of the boot”. Although it might appear as the most southern part of the country, it is almost on the same line as Rome , as the country is “crooked” on the map!

Puglia has many regions , from Gargano all the way down to Santa Maria di Leuca, where both the Adriatic and the Ionian sees meet. There are over 800 km (497 mi) of beautiful beaches and endless charming historic cities for you to explore.

We lived in Italy for over a year and travelled quite a lot around and when people ask us “Is Puglia worth visiting “, our answer is a massive YES . Puglia is one of the most diverse, beautiful and interesting regions of Italy.

Both the Adriatic and the Ionian Sea give its beaches crystal clear water, let alone the charming towns. However, don’t mislead yourself into thinking tourism in Puglia is just about gorgeous landscapes. This is a destination full of history and tradition too.

Due to its strategic position, pilgrims, travellers and even invaders considered Puglia the gateway to and from Europe for many centuries. This convergence of so different cultures and people was vital in the development of their culture, which stands out for its plurality and hospitality.

If you are wondering how to get to Puglia Italy, it is super easy! There are a few options:

• Getting to Puglia by plane: for those travelling to Puglia by plane, there are three airports – Bari, Foggia and Brindisi. As the capital of Puglia, Bari has the biggest airport, and it is probably the best place for you to arrive. There are direct flights to Bari Airport from many European cities, such as London, Paris and Cologne.
• Getting to Puglia by train or car: Alternatively, you can fly to Rome and rent a car – check prices here or take the train to Bari. This 400 km (267 mi) long route is easily made both ways.

How to get around Puglia (car, bike and train)

Renting a car in puglia.

As opposed to North Italy, which counts on a good network of public transportation, the south of the country is more “lacking”. There are not so many railways in Puglia and buses won’t take you everywhere.

Therefore, we suggest a good old Puglia road trip . Renting a car in Puglia is surely the best way to go around and be able to visit the most remote villages and the best beaches in Puglia .

As we already explained, Bari is the capital of Puglia and the best place for you to kick off your Puglia road trip. If you are looking for a more flexible Puglia itinerary, you can easily pick up and drop off the car from different cities – you could arrive in Bari and leave from Rome for instance.

Cycling in Puglia

Another option not so much considered by the majority of tourists in Puglia – and extremely pleased by the way – is to cycle in Puglia. If just reading this previous phrase makes you breathless, a ride on a motorbike will do the job too. Cycling also demands time. If you don’t have much time for your travel in Puglia , then surely rent a motorbike or a car.

We spent a month cycling around the whole Puglia region and we cannot recommend a better way for a different Puglia road trip .

Most of the time, you cycle on a flat land and the scenery is stunning. Travelling by bike is extremely immersive and allows you to absorb everything you see and experience as no other means of transportation can. Is that something you are interested in, by the way?

Getting around Puglia by train

Travelling around Puglia without a car is possible by train (you can check prices and routes on Trenitalia ). Bear in mind though that this is not the most convenient, because trains do not reach all the most touristic cities. BlaBlaCar also works in Puglia.

Puglia itinerary – Best cities of Puglia

So, where to go when travelling to Puglia? We are going to lay out the most important cities and activities and then give you below our suggested itinerary according to the length of your holidays, such as what to do in Puglia in 3 days , or what to do in Puglia in 7 days .

We shall begin this Puglia guide with Bari, the capital city of Puglia .

Bari – the capital of Puglia

Time in Bari – Puglia : One to two days

Bari has one of the oldest historical city centres in the region. It’s walled and with many alleyways, which reminds some Middle Eastern countries.

Even though the old town of Bari looks slightly abandoned, don’t miss out on the opportunity to wander about it, at least for a few hours. You will probably feel the bohemian vibe and see nice old ladies chatting on their doors and windows, making fresh pasta or just standing still. It’s quite the stereotype of Southern Italy!

Make sure to visit the spectacular Bari’s main cathedral. You can see other tours available in Bari here .

You can easily explore the city of Bari in just a few hours. Unless you feel a strong connection with it, we advise you to cross Bari out of the itinerary and enjoy more time on other wonders of Puglia.

Find your accommodation in Bari  here.

Castel del Monte in Andria

Time in Castel del Monte : half-day activity

Another cool stop to add to your Puglia itinerary is the Castel del Monte, located in the city of Andria, near Bari. Also known in Italian as the castello otagonale (octagon castle of Puglia).

Adria is a charming little town with public parks, squares, churches and palaces. On the way there, you find the Castel del Monte, the mysterious fort built by Frederick II, now a UNESCO Heritage Site in Puglia.

The architecture of the castle aims at perfect symmetry, with a pinch of spooky fascination for the number 8. The octagonal castle has eight sides – obviously! – eight towers and eight rooms on each of its two floors. The centre has an eight-sided courtyard and used to have an octagonal fountain too. From there, you can see the sky, through an octagonal shape, of course.

Other sinister facts about this castle is that it has no kitchen, moat or bridge, which makes everyone think about the purpose of it. Surely, not for a comfortable living nor for a military purpose.

Anyway, the castle lies gloriously on top of the mount near Andria, overlooking the sea of Puglia.

Admission to the castle costs €7 and it is open every day from 9am to 5pm.

Grotte di Castellana

Time in Grotte di Castellana : half-day activity

The Grotte di Castellana is a complex of incredible caves and grottos with formations dating back more than 90 million years. There are two types of guided tours:

• Complete: It has a 3km of distance, takes 2 hours and passes through the famous Grotta Bianca (White Grotto). It costs €18.
• Short: The short tour takes about 50 minutes and walks around 1km. It costs €15.

Polignano A Mare

Time in Polignano A Mare : One to two days

This illustrious city is one of the best places in Puglia . It’s also the hometown of Domenico Modugno, the famous singer of “Volare”. Even if you are not fond of well-worn destinations – just like us – it is yet impossible to not fall in love with this town.

Its white houses, stone-paved alleyways, cliffs meeting a stunning blue sea, amazing restaurants and rather hospitable people will definitely win your heart over.

Polignano A Mare is one example of a city that makes you lose track of time. Don’t miss out on sunbathing on the beach, try one of the homemade ice creams and visit the Domenico Modugno statue. A Puglia itinerary is surely not complete without a stop in this charming city!

For those staying for one or more nights in Polignano, we recommend the cosy and centrally located Malu B&B , however, there are many other hotels to choose from.

Alberobello – the city of the Trulli

Time in Alberobello : One-day activity

The city, famous for the trulli, has long taken the fancy of tourists. Just like Polignano, Alberobello has lost some – or more – of its originality. Currently, there are not many people living in trulli as most of them were turned into shops, restaurants and hotels. Yet, visiting Alberobello is more than fascinating and also one of the best towns in Puglia .

Find out more about the history and legends of Alberobello in this article .

Tip: A cool thing, if you want to extend your visit to Alberobello, is to spend the night in one of the trulli houses .

Cisternino – the place to eat

Time in Cisternino : half-day activity

This was recommended to us by some locals and we simply loved it, so we are including it in this Puglia itinerary. Cisternino is a cute little town, typical of the Valle d’Itria region.

However, the purpose of your visit is not to wander about its alleyways. In Cisternino, you have a clear goal: Eat at the Al Vecchio Fornello Restaurant and try their famous bombetas . Seriously, it’s a must!

Ostuni – the Città Bianca

Time in Ostuni : One to two days

Ostuni is known as the Città Bianca D’Italia –  The White City of Italy. Well, it’s just a charming town with an old city centre and alleyways, but white. But let’s not undermine its charm too. The relaxing atmosphere is greatly appreciated over here.

Our greatest surprise, however, was to experience Ostuni at dusk. Just when the sun goes down, the Città Bianca turns into a bohemian scenario, with many restaurants illuminated by candles, bars with cushions on the stairs of the old city, live concerts and many more attractions.

To have a true feel of Ostuni, we recommend staying in a traditional house in the city centre, like The Welcome B&B , but there are many other hotels and B&Bs there.

PRO TIP : Locals do not see Ostuni as a gastronomical sight. So, avoid their expensive touristy restaurants and swing by the neighbour town Ceglie Messapica, just 12km – or 7 miles – away. Ceglie is the gastronomic hub of the region. Our advice is the L’Antico Arco Osteria, where local friends took us. Their food and hospitality are out of this world .

Lecce – the capital of the Baroque

Time in Lecce : One to two days

Lecce is also called the Capital City of the Baroque in Italy, and is another must-see in Puglia! The town has a gracious city centre, is full of churches, mansions, a Roman amphitheatre and many more interesting sights.

We stayed in an awesome B&B there,  the Le Giravolte, one of the best b&b in Puglia . But, as it only has three rooms available, you might want to book in advance .

Check here to see other accommodations in Lecce .

Otranto – the best of Salento

Time in Otranto : One to two days

Otranto was one of our favourite cities in our Puglia itinerary! Otranto is not just gorgeous, it’s very – really, very! – historical and has plenty of nice places to see.

The castle holds art expositions, including photo exhibitions, pictures and so on. There is a church with the largest medieval intact mosaic in the Western world. Also, you can see a sanctuary with the mortal remains of more than 800 men killed during the Turkish invasion in the XV century.

In addition, there is a Bauxite Lake that makes you feel you are inside a portrait.

But let’s not forget the charming alleyways, the turquoise sea and the gastronomy, as usual delicious. And obviously, the hospitality of the people in Otranto is incredible.

Find out where to stay in Otranto .

Grotta della Poesia

Time in Grotta della Poesia : half-day activity

A piece of the cliff – but not the edge – fell off, forming a wonderful natural swimming pool of seawater. The Grotta della Poesia is of extraordinary beauty and it cannot stay out of your Puglia itinerary. Have a look at the aerial video we did from there!

PS – This is an example of an incredibly remote place which you would hardly be able to visit via public transport.

Time in Gallipoli : Two to four days

Gallipoli is probably the most famous city of Puglia, mainly among youths. Mainly also because is one of the best beaches in Puglia . Therefore, if you are not much of a party-lover, this won’t be your cup of tea. If you are, though, you might be interested in reading our full guide about the Full Moon Party, in Thailand .

Nevertheless, it’s worth visiting its historical city centre and one of the best Puglia beaches . Moreover, you cannot miss the Frantoio Ipogeo and its history . It was down in these cellars that local workers lived in sub-human conditions, pressing olives to produce oil that would keep the lights of most European capitals on over the XV to XIX centuries. The oil of Gallipoli was exported all over Europe and that gave them international recognition and wealth.

TIP of accommodation : Just 7km away you will find the Tenuta La Baronessa , a very traditional Masseria which can serve as a base for you to explore the region of Salento. It is one of the best places to stay in Puglia. You can read more about this Masseria over here.

Otherwise, find more accommodations in Gallipoli here .

Salento – the West coast of Puglia

Time in Salento : A day trip to four days

The west coast beaches of Puglia can very well be the most beautiful beaches in Puglia . But they can very well be the wildest too. For this reason, if you are travelling with children, perhaps, is wiser to check if the place you are planning to visit has the infrastructure to welcome the little ones.

Santa Maria Al Bagno, Porto Selvaggio, Porto Cesario, Torre Colimena, Torre Chianca, and Punta Prosciutto are to name a few of the best beaches in Puglia you should make an effort to visit or spend the weekend in Puglia .

We recommend staying in Porto Cesareo. Find accommodation here .

Time in Taranto : One to two days

Visit Taranto is more of an anthropological visit than a touristy one. The city suffered greatly from the construction of a factory, which let the place practically impossible to live in. Taranto is ugly, dirty and with a historical city centre that many judges as dangerous. Yet, it is interesting and quite historical too.

If you have some spare time, make sure to spend a day in Taranto. It is worth going even if it is to understand the question about emptying historical city centres of Puglia during the economic boom of post-II World War .

Find your accommodation in Taranto here .

Activities to include in your Puglia Itinerary

Watch a Pizzica Concert

The Pizzica is the traditional music/dance of Salento and has its origins in an exorcism ritual that used to be carried out mainly on women a long time ago.

Put a visit to Matera in your Puglia itinerary

Matera was the Europe’s Capital of Culture 2020. Even though is not in Puglia but in Basilicata, the neighbouring province, it is definitely worth including in your Puglia itinerary. It was the place where the film The Passion of the Christ , with Mel Gibson was filmed. It’s different than anywhere else and everything else you have seen. It most definitely should be on anyone’s itinerary of Italy. You could add Matera at the end of your Puglia itinerary, on your way back driving to Bari or Rome.

Visit the wild Gargano region

If you have some spare time, don’t miss this authentic and pristine area in northern Puglia .

Include staying in a Masseria in your Puglia itinerary

Masserias are the traditional Puglian farms, where you can have a sense of the countryside life in Puglia. There are many beautiful Masserias around Puglia, more specifically in the Salento region.

Well, with that alert being given, I think it is fair to explain what is Ferragosto . By the way, you can find more information about the country in our dedicate page about Italy . But to sum up, the factories agreed a long time ago that all the workers should take their holidays all together to avoid disruption in the work. And up to date, the second and third week of August we have cities completely empty, while others are packed , in Italy. You can imagine where Puglia fits in between those two categories, being a very beautiful holiday destination.

The high season is July and August , with temperatures at its peak (as well as prices). From the end of June onwards, expect queue in most tourist activities and the necessity o book things in advance.

The low season is November to March , with temperatures at its low (and quite a few places closed too). It is definitely not the best season to enjoy the gorgeous beaches, but if you don’t mind the cold, don’t like the mass and not found of touristy things, then why not.

Anything in between is the sweet spot . If you can actually pick when to go, I would go the end of May or first weeks of June . Or the month of September too, but you will see that people that work with tourism, such as beach clubs and restaurants, will be less enthusiastic with you there as they were in early season. Easy to understand that too though.

Our suggested Puglia itinerary for 3, 7 or 14 days

It is worth emphasising that this is a rather flexible travel guide. The idea is to provide you with enough information so you can make a decision about the order of the cities and tailor your Puglia itinerary towards your taste and needs. If you have any comments, advice, or doubt, be sure to leave them in the comment section below or get in touch with us directly.

Puglia itinerary 7 days

A week in Puglia is perfect. You will be able to visit quite a few places and enjoy both the Adriatic and Ionic coasts.

• 01 day – Bari
• 02 day – Polignano a Mare
• 03 day – Alberobello (sleep in Ostuni)
• 04 day – Ostuni
• 05 day – Lecce
• 06 day – Otranto
• 07 day – Return to Bari by car – 2h10min

Tip: If you are the kind of traveller who prefers to avoid daily check-ins and check-outs, our suggestion is to choose two cities as a base for this 7-day itinerary in Puglia. Our recommendation is Polignano A Mare and Lecce.

3 days in Puglia itinerary

If, for the unfortunate event of having only three days to travel in Puglia, we recommend you to:

• Option 1: you can arrive from Bari and stay three days in Polignano a Mare , using it as a base to visit the nearby cities of Monopoli, Polignano A Mare, Alberobello and Ostuni.
• Option 2: Focus on the Salento region, more on the South. Use Gallipoli or a Masseria as your base and explore the beautiful beaches and cities of Maria Al Bagno, Porto Selvaggio, Porto Cesario, Torre Colimena, Torre Chianca, and Punta Prosciutto.

Puglia itinerary 14 days

Two weeks in Puglia is what we recommend if you want to enjoy the most of Puglia.

• 02 day – Castel del Monte (Bari)
• 03 day – Polignano A Mare
• 04 day – Polignano A Mare
• 05 day – Grotta Castellana & Alberobello (sleep in Ostuni)
• 06 day – Ostuni
• 07 day – Ostuni
• 08 day – Lecce / Otranto
• 09 day – Lecce / Otranto
• 10 day – Lecce / Otranto
• 11 day – Gallipoli
• 12 day – Gallipoli
• 13 day – Porto Cesario
• 14 day – Porto Cesario (return to Bari by car – 2h)

Where to stay in Puglia – what cities use as a base

A good way to visit Puglia, considering that cities are very close to one another, is to choose two or three cities as a base and, from there, explore the rest of the peninsula. Otherwise, you would spend one night in each city and that can be exhausting. To have as a base, we recommend:

• Bari or Polignano A Mare to explore the northeast;
• Ostuni to visit the Vale D’Itria
• Lecce for the southeast and west
• A Masseria in the countryside of Salento to better know the beautiful Puglia beaches of the west coast
• Vieste for the Gargano Region

* This article was updated in October 2023 *

See the summary of this Puglia Itinerary in these FAQs

We lived in Italy for over a year and travelled quite extensively around the country and can say for sure Puglia is one of the most beautiful and interesting regions in Italy. There are over 800 km of beaches with crystal clear water and many charming historical towns too.

01 day – Bari 02 day – Polignano a Mare 03 day – Alberobello (sleep in Ostuni) 04 day – Ostuni 05 day – Lecce 06 day – Otranto 07 day – Return to Bari by car – 2h10min

There are 3 airports in Puglia, but the biggest one is Bari, with direct flights to many European cities. Alternatively, you can use Rome airport (430 km away) and take the train or rent a car to Puglia.

Yes, but with many restrictions. There are trains from the biggest cities, but not the small charming villages and beaches. Thus, our recommendation is for a road trip.

1. Polignano a Mare 2. Ostuni 3. Alberobello 4. Otranto 5. Gallipoli 6. Lecce 7. Grotta della Poesia 8. Porto Selvaggio 9. A Masseria 10. Punta Prosciutto.

Option 1: Arrive from Bari and stay three days in Polignano a Mare, using it as a base to visit the nearby cities of Monopoli, Polignano A Mare, Alberobello and Ostuni. Option 2: Focus on the Salento region, more on the South. Use Gallipoli or a Masseria as your base and explore the beautiful beaches and cities of Maria Al Bagno, Porto Selvaggio, Porto Cesario, Torre Colimena, Torre Chianca, and Punta Prosciutto.

Hi, loved your article, lots of food for thought. We are planning a trip to Puglia for 10ish days at the end of May ‘24. Should we plan to book accommodation in advance or do you think we can book nearer the time I.e 2-4 days in advance. We are spending a month in southern Italy and if possible would like to be flexible. We will be driving and happy to stay in the countryside / less busy areas. Many thanks. David

Hello David. Thanks for getting in touch. What a fantastic trip! So, we will always recommend booking your accommodation as early as possible to avoid disappointments. However, when we travel, we do like you are planning to do. We leave to book a few days before-hand so we can be flexible on our itinerary. As you are travelling not in high season (but just about – in fact, perfect timing to visit Puglia), I don’t think you will have problems to book a few days before, particularly because your trip will go through countryside and less busy areas. Just keep in mind that some activities is better to book in advance, such as the restaurant Grotta Palazzesse. You can save this article and always go back to it to book your accommodation, car rental, insurance and reorganise your itinerary. And whenever you need to contact us, I will be more than happy to help. Safe travels,

Hi, Great information, thank you for sharing. I am trying to plan a trip for my birthday in June, and I wanted to know if you had recommendations for a great place to eat, preferably one with a great view. The lunch/dinner place could be a splurge within reason. I look forward to your reply.

Hello Roy, Thank you very much for your comment and amazing to spend your birthday in Puglia! I recommend the Grotta Palazzese, in Polignano A mare. But you have to book before as it gets really busy, particularly at this time year you are going. Let us know if you need any assistance to design your itinerary. Safe travels,

Hi, Wonderful article,I’m planning to go to Puglia in April, can I use Uber over there?

Hello Julia. Thank you very much, I’m glad you liked Unfortunately not. We recommend renting a car (check availability above) or, if you have to use public transportation, it is also possible, but it will require a bit more planning. You can save this page so you can come back easier later on to plan your trip in Puglia. Otherwise, we have a service to prepare a personalised itinerary for you too. If that is something that interest you, please let me know. Safe travels, Tiago

Hi, I’m a solo traveler. First I will arrive from Asia to Rome. I want to visit Rome, Naples, Sorrento, Alberobella, and Matera. Can I use a train/flight to go to Bari? From Bari, I must arrange a taxi from the airport, right? How I can travel from Trulli to Matera? Please take note that I don’t want to drive. Any suggestion?

Hello Thiru!! Where about in Asia, just out of curiosity 🙂 ? So, you can indeed take a train from pretty must anywhere to Bari. Flights is also a good option if you are going from Rome to Bari. From the airport, you can take buses to the city – or taxis, if you prefer. From Alberobello to Matera I don’t think is the best option. You can either go on a tour from Bari ( have a look at this tour for instance: Tour to Matera ). Apart from tours leaving to the main cities, you can also take the train too. Have a look at Trenitalia for prices and availability: Trenitalia . Hope it helps, Safe travel

Hi Tiago and Fernanda

We are going to explore the Puglia region in June for 10 nights. Aiming for equal split of City and Coast. Our itinerary is currently; Bari, down to Coast of Polignano a Mare, Ostuni and then we want to travel further South to Lecce and finally Ortranto, going by train if possible. Does this look feasible? Have we missed any key “must see” places especially furthest South?

Katy, Monica, Massimo & Matteo

Ciao Katy Sounds good. An option is, instead of going to Ostuni, be based in Polignano or Bari and go on a tour to Alberobello and Ostuni. Then, go straight to Lecce. That is less checking-ins and outs. It does look feasible, though you might be limited to the hours you can travel. Just make sure you book your train tickets before hand. Even though Early June is not the high season, you don’t want to risk. I believe 10 nights you will cover the main parts of Puglia indeed! There are a ton more to explore, which I am sure you will definitely go back later 🙂 If you need assistance on your itinerary, we make tailored itineraries with suggestions of accommodations and activities. Let us know if that interests you. Safe travels,

Amazing article! Can´t wait to visit Puglia and all these places on our upcoming trip to Italy next month!

I am sure you are going to have an amazing time in Puglia! Make sure to save the article to visit later too and let us know if we can help with anything with your trip. Safe travels,

Hello! This article is great! My fiancé and I are currently planning are honeymoon and are considering Puglia! We are looking for a more local authentic experience and hoping for something a bit active, but we are also on a pretty tight college budget haha… can we bike down the coast from Bari and stay along the way, then rent a car to get back to a main airport? And would this be doable on a small budget?

Hello Caroline. Thank you for getting in touch! Wowww, congratulations!!! Puglia is definitely a great option for honeymooners. It is totally doable. However, renting a bike is something I wouldn’t know really how to tell you. Most of the renting bike shops are not really prepared for a long-trip. I believe it is something you would have to organise once you arrive in Bari. But as soon as you have the bike, it is totally doable and worthy. We actually did that (as you probably read) and the views are amazing. Then, on your way back, you can try to put both bike on the car and drive back.

Hi , Mu husband and I will be going to visit for a 14 days in the Puglia region from April 1 to April 16 2024. We will be taking a train from Rome to Bari and then renting a vehicle. During our stay we would like to organize a cooking class with a family for a day. Where would be the best place to do this during our stay. Another activity we would like to do is visit an Olive oil farm and also Vineyards to do wine tasting. This means that we have days that we will not be traveling to visit has we will want to enjoy the local people in the Puglia region. Do you have any suggestion of where we should base ourselves to do these different activities.. We also want to visit the region of Matera during our stay. Any suggestion would help as we have not reserved any place to stay as of yet. We would appreciate your suggestions of an itinea

Hello Monique. Thank you so much for stopping by. Wow, I am sure you will have a wonderful trip in Italy!! And April is good timing too. Cooking class you can do it in most of the big cities, so I recommend Bari. To visit an olive oil farm, do it in Salento. In fact, in Gallipoli, look for the Frantoio Apogeo, which were old oil making areas underneath the earth. Really interesting. I recommend staying in a Masseria, where you can enjoy the organic food and feel the country atmosphere. Wine tasting is pretty much everywhere in Italy :). Some places are great for food though, such as Ceglie Messapica, Locorotondo… If I were you, I would choose three base cities (Polignano/Bari; Masseria; Lecce/Gallipoli). And definitely visit Matera!!! We offer a tailored itinerary service, which we give you information about Italy, curiosities, two recommendation of hotel, activities to do, beaches to visit, all tailored to your preferences and pocket. If that’s something that interest you, send me an email to [email protected] . I would love to arrange a call to discuss this further. Safe travels,

I am planning a 10 day stay in Pulia in May 2024.. we have rented a villa in Ostuni and will explore from there. Thanks for your article, it’s a great reference..

It’s amazing to hear that! Enjoy Puglia 🙂

Hi Can you recommend anyone that would do a private driving tour around Puglia for two people Thx

Hello Gabby, I don’t know anyone in particular. You can have a look at this guy here (day tour choose own itinerary). If you can’t find anything, let us know and we can ask around. Safe travels,

Would you recommened visiting Trani? What are the highlights to see there?

Hello Natalie.

Trani is a very cute little town. We stopped in Trani for no more than 2h and we felt it was enough. I would not spend a night there and I would say that if you miss it, it wouldn’t be so much of a miss. However, if you are driving (or cycling, like us) down the coast from Gargano, then it is worth stopping by to check it out. By the way, depending on the time of the year (May and June mostly), if you are actually coming from Gargano down south, you can see the the pink flamingos in between Zaponeta and Margherita di Savoia. Then, in Trani it is worth checking Il Duomo (Basilica Cattedrale Beata Maria Vergine), both Molos (the piers), the very beautiful park on the right of the port (Villa Comunale) and the Castello Svevo di Trani.

Enjoy you trip,

Such an amazing article – thank you so much!! Wondering if you would recommend any beach clubs for a group of us going in our late 20s? Wanting something fun with music and am curious if there is anywhere in particular you went that was fun. Thank you so much regardless!

Cheers, Sydney

Hello Sidney. Thank you very much for your comment. And yes, Gallipoli is quite famous for that, particularly in July and August. You might find other beaches with beach clubs, such as Porto Cesario, but definitely Gallipoli for having fun!

Hi – We are planning a 10 -12 day trip to Puglia in May. Our plan is to land in Bari, rent a car and immediately drive to Ostuni to stay in a Masseria for three nights and from there visit a few places. Then drive to Lecce and stay two nights (maybe three) and then to Matera and stay two nights and then back to Bari and stay two nights, flying home from there. Does that sound like a doable itinerary and are we missing anything that we should be including? Thanks for this great article.

Do you do any travel arrangements for people?

Hello Nina, thank you for stopping by. Yeah, it does sound like a perfect itinerary! I think you got all covered and I’m sure you are going to have an amazing time!

We do offer a service of bespoken itinerary and travel consultancy. But to be honest with you, it seems like you are set. Travel in Puglia, particularly driving, is not a hassle. But if you do need any assistance, please do get in touch. It will be a pleasure.

Also, if this article was of any help to you, I would really appreciate if you could use our affiliate links to rent your car, book your hotels, insurance and tour activities. You won’t pay any more and it will help us creating content such as this one.

Safe travels,

Hi! I will be traveling to puglia in September 2023. I like your 7 day itinerary. Where should I set base for this itinerary? Also, can I travel by train to the different towns?

Sincerely, Sandra Zaragoza

Hello Sandra! I’m glad to hear that. We love Puglia. So, with regards to set base, try either Bari, Polignano a Mare or Ostuni. And even though you can travel by train, I don’t really recommend. It is not very reliable and it won’t take you to the most places you want to visit. Definitely renting a car is the best option here and prices are not too expensive. Check it out some deals in this link . I hope we helped. Safe travels,

Thank you!!

Anytime! Please be in touch if you need any more assisstance with your itinerary. Safe travels,

Great article. If you were going to rent a villa for a 6 day stay, what would you recommend as a central location. We don’t mind driving by car in any direction to visit other places, and would prefer to do this then picking up and moving unless you feel like we will miss out on the experience of staying in multiple cities/towns?

Hello Nanette. Thank you for stopping by. I would definitely have a place as a central location for my 6-day visit to Puglia, so I save time and money on moving a few times. The place, though will depend on what you want to visit. If you want to stay in Gargano region, then Vieste. In the mid-region, to visit the most traditional places of Puglia, such as Ostuni and Alberobello, then Polignano A Mare is a great point – or perhaps Bari. Now, if Salento is your desired region in Puglia, then I would focus in either Lecce or Gallipoli. I don’t believe you would miss out on anything by not staying the night in some cities. If you would like some help on making an itinerary for your trip, including accommodation and places to visit, please do let us know as we offer this service. Hope you have a lovely time in Italy and do let us know how it went. Safe flights,

Buongiorno. My husband and I (we are from India), are planning to spend about 2 weeks in Puglia, in October 2023. We would like to hire a car and drive around. Is it difficult to drive in Bari and Lecce? Is it difficult to find parking? Would you recommend Airbnb properties? Any advice and recommendations will be helpful. Thank you.

Ciao Girija! Ah, that’s amazing! I’m sure you will love Puglia and I hope this article can help you out. Please do let us know any doubts and questions about a trip to Puglia. So, with regards to your question, driving in Bari and Lecce is not difficult. You do have to pay attention when driving in “centri storichi”, which are the historical city centres. Driving in these areas is limited and inspected, so you should ensure you can drive. Normally, if you rent a room in the historical city centre, the renter will let you know if you can drive or, like most cases, you give them your registration to allow you to drive there. Apart from that, just mind some narrow roads and you will be fine. The way between Bari and Lecce is amazing too! I do recommend downloading an offline map: click here-> maps.me , which will help you greatly. I also do recommend AirBnB properties too, but I don’t have any specific. The accommodation we recommended in this article, we actually stayed and totally recommend it. Again, lease feel free to send us as many questions you want. In case you would like us to provide you with a tailor itinerary too, we have this service. Safe travels, Girija

Would you reccomend a stay in Santa Maria di Lueca?

We will shortly be flying to Bari and spending 10 days in Puglia.

Many thanks

Robert and Jean Fraser

Hi Robert, I definitely recommend a stop-by in Santa Maria di Leuca, because you can see both seas, the Adriatic and Ionian, divided by the colours. They don’t mix up. I have to be honest that we didn’t really see it very well. I suppose it depends on the time of the year or the condition of the weather to clearly see the division between both seas. Anyway, is interesting to visit the most southern town in the heel of the boot 🙂 However, I might sure about staying for the night though. As you have 10 days in Puglia, I would most definitely stay somewhere like Gallipoli, Otranto, Lecce or a nice masseria, such as Tenuta La Baronessa, to use as base and depart to other places in Salento.

If you plan to rent a car – and is surely a good idea – I would use Bari as base for about 4 nights and explore the surroundings. Then, Tenuta La Baronessa (or other masseria in Salento) for another 3-4 nights and explore around. That will also gives you room for one or two nights somewhere else you would like to spend the night, perhaps Polignano A Mare or Ostuni, or any other mentioned above.

If you would like a tailored itinerary, we do offer this service. Drop us an email and we can sent you a document explaining how that would work. But anyway, feel free to ask us as many questions as you would like!

Excellent list! We are weighing up Puglia and this may have just convinced us!

That´s fantastic. I’m sure you won’t regret Puglia!!

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Holiday guide to Puglia, southern Italy: the best towns, restaurants and hotels

Beyond Puglia’s crowded hotspots, there are nature reserves, dramatic caves, medieval quarters and several hundred miles of coastline to enjoy, not to mention the region’s star attraction: fantastic food

• Readers share their Puglia travel tips

P oor Puglia. For centuries rampaging armies used this heel of Italy as a convenient motorway en route to richer pickings further afield. Nowadays, tourists treat a large part of the region in much the same way – barely touching the ground at Brindisi or Bari before speeding south to newly trendy Salento, Puglia’s far southern tip (which we’ve covered in a separate guide ).

What they’re missing as they charge pell-mell for Lecce, Gallipoli et al is a profusion of medieval hilltop towns, olive groves, a coastline peppered with interesting towns, more olive groves, restaurant menus stuffed with local speciality dishes, two national parks, vineyards, yet more olive groves, and enough castelli , cattedrali and palazzi to keep even the most demanding of history buffs content. Oh, and Europe’s largest colony of pink flamingos.

The geography is fairly simple. The uplands are in the Gargano promontory in the north-east and the Alta Murgia national park in the west, while the rest of the region is flatter, often pockmarked with small hills topped with a settlement of some sort. There are several hundred miles of Adriatic coastline to the east, a chunk of Ionian Sea to the south, and a brace of large, wildlife-rich lakes in the north (Varano and Lesina), which are separated from the sea by low hills and sand dunes.

Since Puglia is basically the shape of an upturned hockey stick, finding a way to see all this is an uncomplicated affair. Hug the coast from Vieste in the north-east to Brindisi in the south, before turning inland to take in the città bianche. Then strike west to Alta Murgia, north to the mysterious hilltop Castel del Monte to experience one of its wonderful sunsets, west to Foggia and then back into the Gargano to complete the loop.

Alternatively, take the train – the main line passes through Foggia before heading for the coast – to visit Trani, Bari, Polignano a Mare and Brindisi. The branch lines that crisscross the region are great for inexpensive day trips to places such as Altamura, Gioia del Colle or the città bianche.

However you explore the place, just remember to take an empty stomach.

What to see

It’s unfortunate that most visitors’ first taste of Puglia is the sprawling mess of autostrade and industrial units around Bari airport. Bari itself has its moments – the narrow, cobbled streets of the old town by the Basilica di San Nicola and the 12th-century Castello Svevo (Swabian castle) are worth a wander and you can sample some ciambotta , the local fish-based stew – but the port city is rather down at heel. At least Brindisi , the region’s other gateway, has spruced itself up in recent years. Broad thoroughfares of blanched stone flanked by tall palms brim with little shops and tempting places to eat.

The ancient settlement of Alberobello is so well preserved it’s been given Unesco World Heritage status

Look up on the wall of any restaurant in the region and there’s a good chance you’ll see a picture of Puglia’s favourite son, Padre Pio, who died in 1968 but was canonised 34 years later. Decked out in the brown habit of the Capuchin friars, the kindly San Pio gazes benignly down upon the faithful. Up on the Gargano peninsula, the astonishing, new shell-like church built by Renzo Piano at San Giovanni Rotondo , where Pio worked, is already a magnet for pilgrims.

Almost as numerous as San Pio sightings are Puglia’s trulli . Most abundant in the Valle d’Itria , just north-west of Salento, these small beehive-like stone dwellings give the landscape the appearance of having been scattered with upturned ice-cream cones. While most can be seen in the midst of plots of mature olive trees made square through decades of judicious pruning – the town of Alberobello boasts 1,400 trulli in a maze of narrow streets. The ancient settlement is so well preserved it’s been given Unesco World Heritage status. Just don’t mention hobbits – they’ve heard it before.

Alberobello is just one of Valle d’Itria’s string of città bianche or white towns, each on their own little hilltop rising up from the plain and each staring out defiantly at the rest, as if the days of petty fiefdoms were still with us. The white historic quarters of Cisternino , Martina Franca , Ceglie Messapica , Ostuni and Locorotondo are all worth a gander and are within easy striking distance of one another, making a day’s medieval hilltop città tour pretty much obbligatorio if you’re in the neighbourhood.

All these towns, though, are dwarfed by the northern stronghold of Foggia , where ancient churches and palaces are so numerous it makes you wonder what the city’s inhabitants did beyond worshipping and living it up.

By the sea there’s a good mixture of wild coastline and more happening spots. Among the latter is Trani , a slow food city (do try a moscato di trani , the local dessert wine) whose pièce de résistance is a magnificent Swabian fortress and a Romanesque cathedral .

However, ask locals what their favourite seaside resort is and you’ll hear one name over and over again: Polignano a Mare . About 20 miles south-east of Bari, Polignano has a compact medieval quarter that might have been designed expressly for lovers of indolent pre-prandial ambles. The little town pushes itself right to the edge of limestone cliffs undercut by caves hewn by the ceaseless nibbling and gnawing of the Adriatic, while its tiny and postcard-pretty beach could be a Cornish cove, if it weren’t for the terrace of tall venerable buildings.

North up the coast is the Sentiero Airone nature reserve, home to those pink flamingos. The reserve is squeezed between the forest and peaks of the Gargano national park , which spreads over the eponymous northern peninsula, and the Alta Murgia national park , a high limestone plateau where, in one particular cave, are no fewer than 30,000 dinosaur footprints.

That’s not even the region’s most dramatic subterranean feature. Castellana Grotte (about 12 miles south-west from Polignano a Mare) is a two-mile-long labyrinth of passages and caverns – making a particularly welcome diversion on a hot summer day.

Back above ground, while there’s no classic cycling route through the region, seven miles have so far been opened of the Ciclovia dell’Acquedotto , a cycle path through the Valle d’Itria which will eventually form part of a 155-mile route through Puglia. Walkers, meanwhile, should head for the Alta Murgia national park where wardens lead day-long hikes taking in castles and prehistoric tombs, falcons and sinkholes.

Where to eat

The region’s star attraction is the food. Relatively impoverished though Puglia may be, the Pugliese take their alimento very seriously indeed. As might be expected, seafood dishes predominate, with squid a favourite ingredient, but there’s also a host of local specialities. The inland town of Altamura produces bread prized all over Italy. It’s baked in wooden ovens to a recipe unchanged since the Middle Ages, with the u puène muedde loaf cheekily mimicking a priest’s hat. Gioia del Colle is the place to go for mozzarella and burrata cheese; while in Murgia , cardoncello mushrooms and lampascioni (wild onions) abound. And wherever you are, you can order fave e cicoria , a traditional peasant dish consisting of a warm broad-bean pâté mixed with the local olive oil and served with bitter chicory. Washed down with a carafe of an Apulian primitivo , of course.

Seafood dishes predominate, with squid a favourite ingredient, but there’s also a host of local specialities

Mint Cucina Fresca, Polignano a Mare A bijou restaurant providing a break from the pasta, pizza and lead-with-the-meat joints, Mint’s ultra-healthy-eating philosophy produces dishes packed with organic seasonal ingredients sourced locally. Via San Benedetto 32, + 39 080 424 1373, closed on Mondays, mintcucinafresca.com

Trabucco di Montepucci, Montestrione, near Peschici This family restaurant is on the oldest of Gargano’s trabucchi (offshore fishing platforms). Here, you can dine next to the sea from which your meal was hauled just hours before by an ancient system of nets, pulleys and winches. On the SS89 between Rodi and Peschici, +39 345 893 3151, trabuccodimontepucci.com

Osteria Pugliese, Ceglie Messapica Ceglie Messapica may be the least wealthy of the città bianche , but is the acknowledged gastronomic top dog, and this mother-and-sons establishment is cherished by locals. If ordering the fave e cicoria (beans and chicory), ask for some peperoni (large mild chillies) though, whatever you eat, prepare yourself for the heartbreakingly tiny bill. Vico I Nannavecchia 10, +39 0831 377115, no website

Cicinedda Fruit Bistrot, Ostuni Much more than a juice and smoothie bar, this shabby-chic cafe on Ostuni’s Piazza Libertà is a great place to sit and do a bit of people-watching, while sampling a ricotta and vegetable platter or sipping a cocktail. Piazza Libertà 15, +39 345 608 2382, no website

Cremeria History di Vignola, Cisternino Stuffed with cheesecake made from recipes which the family brought with them from Germany, and loaded down with exquisite sweetmeats like the almond-based mandorle atterrate , this tiny cafe is heaven for anyone who has a sweet tooth. Outside tables have wonderful views across the plain. Via San Quirico 28, +39 080 444 1055, no website

Where to stay

Masseria Salinola, nr Ostuni Illustrating the range of Puglia’s fortified buildings, this lovingly renovated 16th-century salt warehouse is surrounded by olive groves, while the kitchen garden supplies fresh delights to the swish restaurant. Doubles from €140 B&B; +39 831 308330; masseriasalinola.it

Lama di Luna, Andria An 18th-century fortified farmhouse adrift in 200 acres of olive groves and orchards, Lama di Luna exudes a monasterial calm, although the swimming pool and gorgeous fireplaces in the bedrooms might stretch the vow of poverty somewhat. Doubles from €160 B&B, +39 883 569505, lamadiluna.com

Palazzo Paciotti, Trani Just a stone’s throw from the cathedral in a lovely coastal town, this recently renovated palace in the old Jewish quarter of town may have kept its ancient façade but now boasts a sleek modern interior with a snazzy take on the four-poster bed. Doubles from €80 B&B, +39 340 238 8121, palazzopaciotti.it

Trulli Colarossa, nr Alberobello In their own peaceful grounds, less than a mile from the centre of Alberobello, these three apartments are fashioned from no fewer than 14 18th-century trulli . When the sun’s out, breakfast comes al fresco and is packed with homegrown ingredients. From €35 per person per night B&B (prices for longer stays/more people can vary), +39 339 540 4581, trullicolarossa.it

Antico Mondo, Polignano a Mare

Snuggled away in the old town, behind this little hotel’s cool exterior lie stylish rooms full of antiques. Driftwood tables adorn the roof terrace, where breakfast is served along with great sea views. Doubles from €60 B&B, +39 380 385 8898, bebanticomondo.com

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The 8 best places to visit in Puglia

Feb 6, 2024 • 6 min read

Puglia is full of treasured places – here are our favorites © iStock / Getty Images

It’s hard to believe that Puglia once played second fiddle to the likes of Tuscany .

Spanning Italy’s sinuous stiletto, this luminous southern region has some of the country’s cutest villages, quirkiest architecture and most knockout beaches. From a wild, wooded promontory to baroque cities and curious Hellenic towns, the following places merit a spot on any "Must See" Puglian hit list. 

Forget the North Pole: you’ll find the real Santa in Bari . The city’s Herculean Basilica di San Nicola shelters the relics of St Nicholas, whose fondness for secret gift giving inspired the sleigh-riding legend of today. Yet, there’s more to this energetic port than its 12th-century Norman cathedral (and convenient ferry connections to Greece, Albania, Montenegro and Croatia).

Its lovable, labyrinthine old town – Bari Vecchia – also claims an excellent archaeological museum, not to mention the legendary pasta-making ladies of Arco Basso. Early each morning they set up their spianatoie (wooden boards) along the narrow backstreet and get to work, kneading, rolling and expertly shaping Puglia’s signature orecchiette. Ear-shaped pasta aside, the city also whets the appetite with focaccia barese (Bari-style focaccia), sgagliozze (polenta fritters) and panzerotti (deep-fried calzoni) – fortifying street snacks on any Bari bar crawl. 

2. Promontorio del Gargano

A chocolate box of photogenic paesi (towns) and arresting natural beauty, the Gargano Promontory is an all-in-one treat in Puglia’s northeast. Clifftop Vieste and Peschici make for ideal bases, their bright, Arabesque streets scattered with fluttering laundry, color-popping geraniums and seafood trattorie. In the warmer months, boat tours sail from their harbors to Gargano’s dazzling sea caves, coves and stacks.

Both towns are also summer gateways to the nearby Tremiti Islands, where fragrant hikes, crystal-clear seas and a medieval abbey make for an evocative offshore escape. Behind Vieste and Peschici, twisting backroads and hiking trails criss-cross the rugged, mountainous expanse of the Parco Nazionale del Gargano , home to ancient woodlands and brooding mountain villages. The prettiest of the lot is Monte Sant’Angelo, where, according to the faithful, the Archangel Michael made several apparitions in the fifth century.

3. Polignano a Mare

Flat-roofed, cube-shaped buildings sprout directly from the cliffs in Polignano a Mare , precariously perched above a turquoise Adriatic. Its nail-biting location and sun-peeled charm is not lost on the thousands of holidaymakers who squeeze into its centro storico (historic center) each summer. For many, trip goals include a dip at Insta-famous Cala Porto beach. For others, it’s a reservation at Grotta Palazzese , a fine-dining restaurant some may argue is better known for its spectacular setting (in a cave right above the sea) than its value for money.

Consider visiting the town either side of July and August to avoid the heftiest crowds, and make time for its excellent Museo Pino Pascali , an abattoir-turned-contemporary art gallery dedicated to the great, late Puglian artist Pino Pascali.

Local tip: Try the town’s caffè speciale , coffee spiked with sugar, cream, lemon zest and Amaretto. It’s said that the drink was invented by Mario Campanella at his eponymous bar-gelateria Mario Campanella Il Super Mago Del Gelo.

4. Valle d’Itria

Should Snow White and her seven besties ever move to Italy, World Heritage-listed Alberobello is where you’ll find them. The most visited town of the bucolic, vine-laced Valle d’Itria , its peculiar trulli (limestone abodes crowned with conical roofs) are a fabulously surreal sight, clustered together like giant beehives in a fantastical fairy tale. You can wine, dine and shop in many of them, as well as learn about their past at Trullo Sovrano , a "living" museum capturing trullo life in the 19th century.

While several of Alberobello’s trulli offer accommodation, consider exploring the town as a day trip and basing yourself instead in one of the valley’s lesser-known jewel-box towns. Among them is chic, whitewashed Ostuni , rustic Cisternino and baroque Martina Franca . Foodies know the latter for its capocollo, a delicately sweet cured meat regarded as the king of Puglia’s salami.

Planning tip: From mid-July to early August, Martina Franca hosts the Festa della Valle d’Itria , a renowned music festival focused on opera.

5. Grecìa Salentina

From Campania to Sicily , ancient Hellenic ruins attest to a time when much of southern Italy was part of Magna Graecia. Lesser known is the mark left by the Byzantine-era Greeks. It’s an influence still palpable in Puglia’s Grecìa Salentina (Greek Salentine), an area comprising of 12 low-rise towns (Calimera, Carpignano Salentino, Castrignano de' Greci, Corigliano d'Otranto, Cutrofiano, Martano, Martignano, Melpignano, Sogliano Cavour, Soleto, Sternatia and Zollino) to the south of Lecce. Here, Griko, a variant of neo-Greek, is still spoken and it’s not unusual to see signs written in Griko or Greek. If time is limited, focus your attention on Corigliano d’Otranto (home to one of Puglia’s most impressive castles), Melpignano and Martano. The latter two towns feature on the coveted Borghi Autentici d’Italia (Authentic Hamlets of Italy) list.

Planning tip: Several of Martano’s beautiful, private courtyards are open to the public during Cortili Aperti (Open Courtyards), a three-night event in late July. In August, Grecìa Salentina celebrates its soulful pizzica folk dance with the Notte della Taranta festival.

Erudite Lecce is often called the "Florence of the South." That said, Puglia’s architectural show-off leaves Renaissance restraint to the Tuscan capital, reveling instead in its high-octane take on baroque – barocco leccesse . For the city’s 17th- and 18th-century architects, more really was more, a philosophy captured in hyper-theatrical buildings like the Duomo , Palazzo Vescovile and Basilica di Santa Croce . The latter’s intricately carved facade is one of Italy’s architectural masterpieces.

Of course, Lecce’s backstory is much older than its Counter-Reformation showstoppers. On Piazzetta Castromediano Sigismondo, glass floor panels offer a glimpse of a Renaissance oil store. At nearby Museo Faggiano , a mundane search for a sewage pipe led to the discovery of millennia-old subterranean relics, among them a pre-Christian Messapian tomb and a Roman granary.

Over 800 locals were slaughtered when the Ottomans invaded Otranto in 1480. Today, their skulls make for an unconventional welcome committee at the city’s Romanesque cathedral . What makes this hulking landmark unmissable, however, is its action-packed mosaic floor, one of the largest and most intriguing ever executed in medieval Europe. Located a mere 72km (45 miles) from the Balkan coast, it’s not surprising that Otranto’s backstory is riddled with occupations and liberations. Sleuth around its compact old quarter to peel the past off in layers – Greek, Roman, Turkish and Napoleonic. In summer, peel down to your swimsuit; Otranto’s beaches are among the most inviting in Puglia.

8. Gallipoli

Gallipoli is the epitome of southern Italian seduction: Mauritian-blue seas, laid-back locals and a picture-perfect Old Town heady with the scent of freshly fried seafood. A dense warren of intimate squares and bar-studded alleyways, the Old Town occupies a tiny island connected to the mainland by a causeway. Come July and August, the hip and the beautiful descend en masse to lap up Gallipoli’s superlative beaches, chic vibe and hedonistic nightlife. Not that it’s all beach clubs and bronzed pin-ups. Gallipoli harbors the Cattedrale di Sant’Agata , a shining example of barocco leccese architecture, and the extraordinary Frantoio Ipogeo , a subterranean, 17th-century olive press. It’s also home to the mysterious Fontana Greca (Greek Fountain), an intricately carved monument whose exact origins are still up for debate.

Planning tip: Consider visiting Gallipoli in June or September to enjoy the beaches, clubs and warmth sans the peak-season masses.

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The Best Hotels in Puglia to Book for an Idyllic Italian Escape

By Liam Hess

We may earn a commission if you buy something from any affiliate links on our site.

It’s hard to imagine that as little as 20 years ago, if Puglia was known to those outside of Italy at all, it was simply for being the heel on the peninsula’s boot. Fast forward two decades later, and the best hotels in Puglia have not only firmly cracked the code for a perfect Mediterranean vacation, they rank among the most desirable destinations for Italophiles who want to venture beyond the well-established tourist hotspots of Tuscany and the Amalfi Coast .

It’s not difficult to see why. The relatively flat landscape features some of the most gorgeous towns in Italy—from the bleached walls of Ostuni to the quaint domed roofs of Alberobello’s traditional trulli —most of which are packed with knotty medieval streets, gleaming white Baroque churches, and bustling markets. Around its lengthy coastlines you’ll find some of Italy’s most pristine beaches, from soft white sand to rocky plunge pools with crystal clear water. Then, of course, there’s the food. Puglia ’s specialty, given it spans both the Adriatic and Ionian seas, is the freshest fish imaginable, with sea urchins and octopus serving as a particularly delectable highlight. It’s the birthplace of burrata , too; and don’t forget to try some orecchiette, handmade by a nonna on the winding streets of Bari’s old town.

It also helps that there is now a burgeoning scene of luxury hotels, all offering a surprisingly diverse mix of experiences. There are the traditional masserias, or farm complexes, with their whitewashed walls, rustling olive groves, and dusty pink sunsets, which have played no small part in it being nicknamed by some as “the new Tuscany,” even if comparing it to other Italian regions feels like underselling Puglia’s specific charms. Meanwhile, in Salento, the southern part of the region—the stiletto on the heel of the boot, if you like—a number of small-scale boutique hotels are offering a more eclectic range of genuinely unique stays.

All of which is to say, there’s never been a better time to visit the region. Here, Vogue rounds up seven of the best hotels in Puglia to visit this summer—and return to, again and again.

Borgo Egnazia

Walking through the cobbled streets that comprise Borgo Egnazia as the evening light casts a golden glow over the clocktower, you wouldn’t guess for a moment that this sprawling, breathtakingly beautiful property was only built in 2010. That’s right: Every one of Borgo Egnazia’s meticulously designed rooms, suites, and villas—183 in total—might appear centuries-old on the surface, but they reach a world standard in luxury mod cons. (Rumor has it that architect Pino Brescia, a native Puglian who was hired for his knowledge of the quirks of the region’s traditional building techniques, even went around chipping at the walls with a chisel to ensure the creamy local sandstone looked as authentically weathered as possible.) When you find yourself getting pleasantly lost in Borgo Egnazia’s alleyways, it’s clear that was part of the plan.

While Borgo Egnazia is very much the brainchild of couple Aldo Melpignano and Camilla Vender—the latter also runs an exquisitely curated boutique, Bottega Egnazia, as part of the hotel complex—the story actually runs a generation further back; specifically, to Melpignano’s parents. After establishing Masseria San Domenico, the first luxury hotel in the region in 1996, Sergio and Marisa Melpignano played a crucial role in establishing Puglia as the growing tourist hotspot it is today by making a conscious effort to market the region abroad. With Melpignano and Vender’s willingness to both take up the mantle and push that vision to the next level, the wildly ambitious Borgo Egnazia project came to be.

By Lorena Meouchi

By Leah Faye Cooper

By Hannah Coates

There are almost too many experiences available at Borgo Egnazia to list: two beach clubs, a golf course, an atmospheric spa inspired by Roman baths, vintage car tours, cooking classes, oil and wine tastings, and trekking. But despite the enormous scale of the complex and the near-overwhelming number of things to do, there’s an innate sense of calm that radiates from the property’s white stone walls, as well as a sense of total privacy within each of the bedrooms or casette suites, named quite literally after “little houses.” (This feeling of seclusion is undoubtedly a reason why it’s become a particular celebrity favorite, most famously hosting Justin Timberlake and Jessica Biel’s 2012 wedding. Recent guests have included Victoria and David Beckham .) Borgo Egnazia’s tagline is “nowhere else”—after a few days in paradise there, you’ll find it impossible to disagree.

Castello di Ugento

In the region of Salento, 15 minutes or so inland from the white sandy beaches that line the peninsula’s southern tip, lies the tranquil town of Ugento. And at its heart sits  Castello di Ugento , the impressive castle at the town’s highest point. Most of what is visible today was constructed in the 17th century, but it also features the foundations of an 11th-century Norman tower, rediscovered while the building was being lovingly refurbished half a decade ago, and that can now be seen through glass floors in the dining area.

It’s the kind of attention to detail—and instinct for preservation—that characterizes the property’s restoration at the hands of Massimo d’Amore and his partner, Diana Bianchi. (The d’Amore family’s ownership of the castle dates all the way back to its 17th-century splendor.) Nine individually decorated rooms are complemented by an orchard garden as well as a sister property a few minutes down the road, Masseria Le Mandorle , that features a swimming pool and slick sports facilities.

A major highlight here is the food: The hotel restaurant, Il Tempo Nuovo, sees chef Tommaso Sanguedolce put an impressively fresh and unfussy twist on traditional Puglian cuisine, while the now well-established Puglia Culinary Centre offers cooking courses and classes for everyone from beginners to Michelin-star chefs wanting to learn more about Italian cuisine. Finally, there’s an impressive series of rooms on the building’s piano nobile featuring Baroque frescoes that have been recently restored, within which Bianchi is gearing up to stage a series of exhibitions featuring contemporary artists both local and from further afield. When it comes to offering opportunities for Puglian cultural immersion, Castello di Ugento is hard to beat.

Masseria Trapanà

Just 15 minutes from the center of Lecce, a rural road will guide you to the gates of Masseria Trapanà : a leafy oasis that stands out as one of Puglia’s most charming stays. Stepping into the expansive courtyard that serves as the beating heart of this sprawling, white-stoned farm complex, and further into the vaulted lobby—complete with plush sofas and stacks of coffee-table books to invite you to immediately settle in and relax—what strikes you first is the deceptive simplicity of the decor. Here, a spare yet supremely elegant tastefulness reigns: think four-poster beds designed in wiry wrought iron, soothing neutrals, and an emphasis on contemporary local craftsmanship. (In my first-floor room with sweeping views over the fields beyond, there was a stylish, striking red rug hung across one wall.)

You’d be forgiven for thinking the property was overseen by a dyed-in-the-wool Pugliese family, but in fact, it’s the brainchild of the Australian Rob Potter-Sanders, who discovered the 16th-century property over a decade ago and opened its doors in 2015. With just nine suites, it’s an object lesson in how to run a boutique hotel: even as other (supremely chic, typically linen-clad) guests wafted by, there was a feeling you were staying at your very own private villa, or at least the holiday home of the coolest people you know. Everything is relaxed, from afternoons spent lazing by the Edenic swimming pool, birds zipping through the olive trees, to the stunning, grotto-like underground spa, carved into the historic network of storage rooms below the main villa. And when it’s time for lunch? Tuck into a perfectly cooked plate of seafood spaghetti and a glass of crisp, chilled Salento white wine under the lemon trees. It’s an oh-so-laid-back slice of la dolce vita.

Masseria Torre Maizza

Masseria Torre Maizza , found in the cluster of luxurious masserias that have sprung up between the towns of Fasano and Savelletri, was established as one of the first high-end stays in the region back in the 2000s. Since being taken over and refurbished by Rocco Forte Hotels in 2019, however, the property has found a new lease on life. In many ways, it’s the quintessential vision of a relaxed masseria holiday with all of the rustic details of a typical farm stay: a sparkling blue pool, fresh fruit, bicycles to ride through the olive groves. But it’s the details found in its interiors and dining that elevate it, largely thanks to the aesthetic vision realized by Olga Polizzi, Rocco Forte’s sister and the chain’s design director. The hotel’s gorgeous restaurant, for example, sits within a pergola draped with ivy and roses overlooking the property’s orchard.

There’s a sense, when at Masseria Torre Maizza, that time has stopped. The large pool area features a bar offering crisp local wines and creative riffs on Italian aperitivi . The spa is stocked with products by Forte’s daughter, Irene, with scrubs and oils directly inspired by the Mediterranean botanicals of southern Italy. (Despite being a hotel group, Rocco Forte’s relatively modest size ensures much of its most welcoming details are those which have been kept within the family.) It’s a small slice of heaven that feels almost specifically designed for you to laze away a summer’s afternoon under an orange tree, book in hand, as a cool sea breeze rustles through the trees.

Palazzo Daniele

Another option in the Salento region is Palazzo Daniele , found in the small but inviting town of Gagliano del Capo that is merely five minutes drive from some of the region’s most spectacular beaches. Yet the real delights of Palazzo Daniele lie within its own 19th-century walls, which, despite being smack in the center of town, include peaceful gardens and a beautifully outfitted swimming pool. The hotel’s playful but tastefully realized decor is partly the result of its previous life hosting artist residencies. Its owner, former lawyer and art collector Francesco Petrucci, decided to collaborate with his friend Gabriele Salini—who also owns the modish G-Rough hotel in Rome—to convert the property into a 10-room boutique stay that opened in the spring of 2019.

The result is a charming mish-mash of ceiling frescoes with cutting-edge contemporary art, sympathetically reconciled by the Milanese architects and designers Ludovica and Roberto Palomba. The monastic plaster walls have been left largely untouched, their weathered surfaces and cracks kept intact, with any interventions largely offered by artist-designed light fittings and the occasional piece of carefully placed modernist furniture. Each room contains its own unexpected details. The bathroom might be accessed by a narrow staircase that once included a secret passageway that extended all the way to the nearby beaches, while even a more conventional en suite features a rain shower in the middle of the room with a shell-like basin, so you can live out your best Birth of Venus fantasy.

Again, the culinary offering is a major highlight here. An open kitchen means you can help yourself to pastries or request eggs your way in the morning with the help of local cooks whose families have lived in the town for generations; at lunch, they’ll prepare a meal of however many courses you can handle in the shaded area by the pool, all sourced from local farmers. At night, the outdoor area transforms once again, with string lights sparkling in the trees and an on-site bartender ready to whip up one of their signature inventive cocktails. The hotel’s motto is “questa casa non è un albergo,” or “this house is not a hotel,” a fact that is reflected in the generously proportioned shared living areas and the open bar built around a former religious shrine. Petrucci, who previously kept an apartment within the complex that was recently converted into the hotel’s newest accommodation, the Black Suite—demonstrates it’s more than just a tagline. After a few hours within Palazzo Daniele, you’ll feel like the place is yours too.

Masseria Calderisi

A relative newcomer to the scene—and all the more energetic for it— Masseria Calderisi was established last year by its charismatic German owners, Max and Jutta von Braunmühl, who fell in love with Puglia in the 2000s and married in the region a decade ago. (The pair, and their children, can often be found mingling with guests, whether escorting them to the sea in a four-wheel drive or stopping by their dinner tables for a digestivo .) There’s an exuberant feeling about this property, evident in the range of activities on offer—an afternoon at their private strip of beach, a boat trip along the Adriatic, or a body scrub at the spa with honey, salt, and lemon from the masseria’s gardens—as well as in its lovely boutique which stocks local ceramics, jams, and olive oils alongside casual pieces and beachwear from the likes of Etro, Max Mara, and Missoni.

This sense of warmth and liveliness extends to the impeccable hospitality, which manages to be friendly and keenly attentive without ever feeling overbearing. So too is it visible in the organic conviviality between guests, many of whom are clearly satisfied to chat about finding this undiscovered gem within the region’s ever-growing number of luxury masserias. If you’re looking to strike up conversation with those on the sun lounger next to you, there’s no awkwardness here; you might even bump into them again while participating in a morning bread-baking session in the hotel’s restored wood-fire oven, or at the pizza party in the large courtyard that takes place twice a week. Masseria Calderisi is a slice of classic Puglian paradise with a fresh, youthful-feeling twist.

Paragon 700 Boutique Hotel & Spa

Even from the outside, Paragon 700 is no ordinary Italian palazzo. Its striking facade of red rusticated stone sticks out within the spectacular “white city” of Ostuni, while the restored vintage car that sits outside offers something of a clue to its unconventional mix of the past and present. But stepping inside is to enter another world entirely. The weird and wonderful brainchild of its founders, interior designers and partners Pascale Lauber and Ulrike Bauschke, they clearly saw the restoration of this mysterious building (its exact origins and dates of construction still remain largely unknown) as an opportunity to unleash their wildest design instincts. The property opened last summer with head-spinningly fabulous results.

The expansive bar area is Baroque by way of Tim Burton: statues of macabre grinning monkeys sit next to defaced reinterpretations of Renaissance paintings, while candelabras dripping with red wax line the tables where artist-designed sofas are upholstered with sewn-together silk ties. The hotel’s 11 individually designed rooms are intentionally more relaxed, with frescoed ceilings, warm lighting fixtures, and stonewashed linen sheets. Despite the flamboyant trappings of its decor, however, both wellness and sustainability are a priority here. The spa, reached by glass elevator and built into the underground caves that are atmospherically lit with candles, feature a hydromassage basin, a Turkish bath, a Himalayan salt wall, and even a natural whirlpool dug deeper into the ground. Meanwhile, the hotel’s commitments to micro-CHP energy, zero plastics, and local construction materials are also notable.

Probably the biggest facet of Paragon 700’s appeal, though, is its prime location within Ostuni, one of the most popular tourist destinations in the region, but that somehow manages never to feel wildly overcrowded. Getting lost in the city’s labyrinth of alleyways and admiring its Gothic cathedral are unmissable elements of a Puglian vacation all on their own—but knowing you can return to the homely environs of Paragon 700 for a refreshing dip in the pool, a cocktail as delightfully offbeat as the decor, and finally a meal in their gourmet, open-kitchen Restaurant 700 to round off the evening makes the experience all the sweeter.

Castle Elvira

A new opening for 2022, Castle Elvira sits atop a picturesque ridgeway 20 minutes or so outside of the historic city of Lecce, surrounded by 37 acres of wild gardens, olive and citrus groves, and lush parkland. But the real star of the show is the castle itself: according to legend, it was built in the early 20th century by a Neapolitan family for their teenage daughter Elvira, who died soon after, leaving the castle abandoned for over 100 years. In 2018, a British couple purchased the property and set about reviving it to its former glories—albeit with a very 21st-century twist.

Balancing these nods to history with a sensitive restoration and firmly contemporary amenities, the exuberant decor is a kaleidoscope of bold colors where art covers every wall of its six individually designed guest suites. (The focus here is very much on intimacy, with family-style dining, a private cinema, and a gorgeous infinity pool, while the castle is also available to hire out in its entirety for group holidays, parties, and weddings.) The eclectic vision for the property is very much the product of its owners, artist and filmmaker Harvey B-Brown and his property developer husband Steve Riseley, who are as jolly and inviting as the decor.

Best of all, you have the pick of the entire property when it comes to choosing where to eat the traditional Pugliese home cooking on offer, courtesy of the local house chef Fabiana. There’s the restaurant space which sits in its own single-story building surrounded by palms and bedecked with charming vintage signs, an opulent dining room with a round table for communal eating, or even the rooftop, where you can enjoy aperitivo and the sunset as viewed from its fairytale turrets; a converted golf cart will even bring you cocktails and boxed lunches to eat by the pool. With a nearby sister property set in the tower of an 18th-century monastery, Castle Elvira lands as a wildly characterful new addition to Puglia’s offering of unexpected luxury stays.

Baglioni Masseria Muzza

Arguably the year’s splashiest new opening in Puglia comes courtesy of Baglioni Hotels & Resorts, the Italian-owned and run luxury hotel group placing a particular emphasis on the country’s cultural hotspots—and their latest property, located a few miles out of Otranto and overlooking the idyllic Lake Alimini, doesn’t disappoint. Masseria Muzza is a sprawling complex of 17th-century whitewashed farmhouses that have been sensitively updated to feature all of the uber-deluxe mod cons you’d expect from a hotel of its caliber.

Those who need to be by a body of water at all times to truly relax will find succor here. The jewel in Masseria Muzza’s crown is its enormous infinity pool—featuring in-built hydromassage loungers and island platforms—for cooling off in the Puglian summer heat, while a shuttle service will whisk you away to a nearby beach in central Otranto with a dedicated area and sunloungers if you fancy a dip in the sea. (The hotel is also mere minutes away from the sparkling blue waters of one of the region’s most breathtaking beaches, the Baia dei Turchi.) Elsewhere, a cavernous spa complex features every amenity you could dream of, from an ice fountain to a Finnish sauna to a steam bath.

Equally top-notch are the hotel’s culinary offerings, from a relaxed poolside restaurant perfect for enjoying a lazy lunch of salads and light pasta dishes to the restaurant in the evening—decorated with the region’s famously flamboyant luminarie, or twinkling colored lights, and surrounded by lemon trees—which offers local cooking alongside wood-fired pizzas. (There are also gourmet tasting menus on offer at the resort’s third restaurant, Le Site, if that’s your bag.) If it’s pure, unadulterated indulgence you’re seeking, Masseria Muzza is the one to beat.

La Fiermontina

If you’re looking for the perfect city base to explore the south of Puglia, look no further than Lecce, the Salento town whose historic center is packed with dozens of churches and palazzi decorated with intricate Baroque carvings cut from the local limestone. (Throughout the day, as the natural light shifts, they seem to almost magically change color.) And if you’re then looking for somewhere to stay in the heart of the city, the names to know are La Fiermontina and its sister property Palazzo Bozzi Corso.

The former sits on the outskirts of the centro storico, thus featuring an unusual amount of space for a city stay in the typically narrow, winding streets of the region, as well as 18 individually designed rooms that blend the traditional trappings of Pugliese decor, from crisp white linens and cream stone walls, with elegant mid-century furniture in muted tones arranged just so. And that’s without mentioning the lush gardens and perfectly sized pool surrounded by olive trees, ready for when you need to cool off after a day of wandering Lecce’s bustling markets and museums.

Palazzo Bozzi Corso, meanwhile, is situated slap-bang in the middle of the city, just steps away from the breathtakingly ornate facade of the Basilica di Santa Croce. Step into the courtyard of this historic palazzo from the busy street outside, however, and an atmospheric hush takes over (and that’s before even heading down to its subterranean wellness space). The interiors speak to the design nous of its owners, the Fiermonte family—the high-ceilinged rooms on the piano nobile best show off their masterful eye for color and proportion—and its the rich history of the family and their guardianship of the property that resonates most strongly, lending these two perfectly Leccese properties their beating heart.

Palazzo Ducale Venturi

As with the best of Puglia’s gloriously grand townhouses, the Palazzo Ducale Venturi offers little suggestion from the outside of the treasure trove in store when you step through the pedestrian entryway cut into its grand wooden doors. Situated in the sleepy, charming town of Minervino di Lecce on the southwestern corner of the peninsula, 15 minutes or so west of the lively beach town of Otranto, the palazzo’s gardens—humming with wildlife, and featuring everything from a medieval well to a herb garden to columns overflowing with white bougainvillea—and an impossibly tranquil pool constitute its own small world.

If you do wish to venture further, however, Palazzo Ducale Venturi sits in a perfect location to explore the southern tip of the boot, in particular the array of rocky coves and secluded beaches that dot the nearby shoreline. But thanks to its particularly impressive food offering—chef ​​Antonio Russo offers elevated takes on Salentine cooking with a particular emphasis on mouth-wateringly fresh seafood—and a small but cutting-edge spa area that features an underground pool converted from an ancient oil mill, you don’t even really need to leave the four walls of its domain anyway.

Palazzo Presta

Palazzo Presta is located in Gallipoli, a somewhat off-the-beaten-track town on the west coast of Salento that, before you ask, bears no relation to the Turkish peninsula of the same name. And as far as the city’s selection of hotels go, Palazzo Presta stands head and shoulders above the rest. Not only is it right in the beating heart of Gallipoli’s historic island old town (and merely a few hundred yards from its convenient, centrally located beach, the Spiaggia della Purità) but Palazzo Presta’s achingly stylish interiors would be worth the trip alone.

Its owners, Eugenia and Antonio, have reinvented its rabbit warren interiors to balance in-the-know nods to design history with a sense of worldly eclecticism, the walls decorated in bold colors and adorned with everything from maritime flags to vintage Japanese prints to racy contemporary photography. The real star of the show, however, is its rambling, two-story rooftop terrace, which features views over the city that can be enjoyed from plush striped seating—and, of course, an inventive cocktail courtesy of the terrace’s dedicated rooftop bar, open every evening just in time for a sundowner.

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The Best Hotels in Puglia

By Lee Marshall and Lucrezia Worthington

Back in the 1980s, when everyone was going to Chianti on villa holidays, few of us had even heard of Puglia. A decade later, word got out about the southern Italian region of fertile red earth, gnarled olives, turquoise seas, beautiful trulli, and pioneering masseria hotels. All of a sudden, Puglia was proclaimed the New  Tuscany —if not a bit prematurely. But it came into its own in the aftermath of such hype, maturing quietly and steadily out of the limelight. Now all those trailblazing converted farmhouses have been joined by sophisticated new arrivals that combine world-class design with the warmth and originality of the area.

How we choose the best hotels in Puglia

Every hotel on this list has been selected independently by our editors and written by a Condé Nast Traveller journalist who knows the destination and has stayed at that property. When choosing hotels, our editors consider both luxury properties and boutique and lesser-known accommodations that offer an authentic and insider experience of a destination. We’re always looking for beautiful design, a great location, and warm service—as well as serious sustainability credentials.

All listings featured on Condé Nast Traveler are independently selected by our editors. If you book something through our links, we may earn an affiliate commission.

Masseria Torre Maizza, Savelletri

A Mediterranean jungle crowned with grape vines and purple bougainvillea leads you to the rooms and suites of Masseria Torre Maizza, a 15th-century farmhouse acquired by the Rocco Forte Hotel group in 2019. It faces the Adriatic Coastline with a sight of the water on the horizon, connected to the Masseria via the Golf Course. The connection to the region through local craftsmanship is notable throughout—think Enza Fasano ceramics designed by Olga Polizzi, wicker and embroidered furnishings, and an eclectic color palette that recalls the shades of nature. Nature is at the very heart of the Masseria, from  Irene Forte Skincare  amenities to the cuisine, where Chef Fulvio Pierangelini curates a menu that showcases vegetables in all their facets.

Don't miss the lemon tart for pudding at the Carosello restaurant, which is lined with rosemary bushes and blue jasmine—which only seems fitting considering tables overlook the lemon grove. Aperitivi takes place by the swimming pool, where you can linger over local wines and nibbles as Carmelo sings Italian classics as the sun sets. Morning workouts are in the outdoor gym, which is more akin to a tented safari camp with techno gym equipment. One of the latest acquisitions of Masseria Torre Maizza is Lido Bambù, a bohemian-inspired beach club with sombrero-like umbrellas and cushioned sun beds, where you can spend the day (and take the free shuttle bus) amongst turquoise waters.

La Peschiera, Monopoli

Settled on waters edge, La Peschiera is the perfect example of a meticulous restoration—from an ancient fishing reserve to one of the most exclusive, refined hotels in Puglia. Located along the Monopoli coastline, the dreamy beachside property embraces a simple color palette of whites and beiges that perfectly enhances the hypnotic deep-blue sea that it overlooks. Here you live and breathe the Adriatic, waking up and falling asleep to the gentle rustle of the waves, and even dining above it on a suspended terrace where seafood is undoubtedly the starring ingredient of Chef Vincenzo Montanaro’s tasting menus. On the other side is a small, private beach where you can experience the leisurely rhythm of the Mediterranean.

Borgo San Marco, Fasano

A white-washed limestone façade represents years of history that date back to the 12th century, enclosing fragments of the past preserved as treasures in the cave church. But this heritage has experienced a contemporary dimension since 2002, when Alessandro and Virginia Amati acquired and restored the property. Today Borgo San Marco has 19 suites with rustic, country design, four poster beds, and romantic drapes that gently dance in the morning breeze. The views here stretch across the horizon, over layers of centenary olive trees and ancient carobs, and sprawl out to the Adriatic Sea. (This is the side to catch the best sunrise.) At the hotel’s restaurant, home-cooked, local cuisine is served to hotel guests and visitors. Order the Fave e Cicoria, (fava bean purée with chicory) and drizzle with Borgo San Marco’s own extra virgin olive oil made on-site—it’s also just as lovely on bread with a sprinkle of salt.

Masseria Moroseta, Ostuni

Carlo Lanzini set out to create a contemporary structure that acknowledged and respected tradition and integrated harmoniously into the surroundings. The outcome is a very linear, refined structure with whitewashed tufo walls, vaulted ceilings, and original stone floors designed by Andrew Trotter. Outside, the beautifully minimalist location offers both sociable and convivial spaces and intimate nooks for moments of simple solitude. With Giorgia Eugeniagoggi at the head of the kitchen table, the philosophy behind the cuisine is simple yet refined: farm-to-table ingredients, locally sourced products, research, and dedication.

Hannah Towey

CNT Editors

Jessica Puckett

Steph Koyfman

Castle Elvira, Trepuzzi

A 15-minute drive from Lecce takes you to a 20th-century castle left in its original state, with merlons and turrets set amidst 37 acres of gardens and orchards sprawling out towards the Adriatic Sea. Legend has it that the castle was abandoned for a century until current owner Steve Riseley acquired the property and—working closely with architects and specialist artisans—carefully restored it whilst discretely integrating contemporary, eclectic designer furnishings and works of art. There are four suites within the castle, a two-roomed Garden Suite in the Cottage and a further four suites across the tower and ancient Masseria, as well as a 230-foot swimming pool, jacuzzi, rooftop terrace, and restaurant in which chef Fabiana Taurino prepares dishes deeply rooted in southern Apulian traditions.

Masseria Montenapoleone, Pezze di Greco

A long, narrow road with alternating rosemary and oleander bushes leads to an enchanted garden suspended between the countryside and the sea. Set out in the tiny hamlet of Pezze di Greco—eight minutes away from Torre Canne beach—Masseria Montenapoleone transports you to a dimension in which time is unimportant. Giuliano and Alessandra Monteneve created this artistic haven from an ancient cave settlement and live here today alongside their guests with their daughter Marcellina. They have paid particular attention to furnishings, in which upcycled objects and vintage treasured finds from antique markets have been given a second life.

The setting is a natural wonderland, composed of a variety of vegetation from fruit trees to flowers and herb gardens that leave a fragrant trail as you walk around the narrow stone-carved paths not only. In the mornings, you’ll find Chef Domenico Consoli picking fresh fruits and vegetables to cook at La Falegnameria restaurant. At Herbarium, the holistic spa, herbs are also used to create massage and aromatherapy oils that change on a seasonal basis. In the evening, book an aperitivo among the vineyards and watch the sunset as you enjoy a cocktail from the botanical bar or a glass of Primi Passi wine made from the native susumaniello grape from the vineyards.

Masseria le Torri, Polignano a Mare

When you think of Polignano a Mare, you envision the large spurs of rocks that look over Cala Porto, that small, picturesque sandy beach. But there’s another side to scenic town—rolling green countryside with dense olive groves surrounding Masseria le Torri. Here, Mimmo and Silvana welcome you to their home through small and kind gestures that truly make you appreciate family-run hotels. Now and again, you’ll see Silvana walk around with a little apron and a huge smile, often on her way to the kitchen to bake something delicious.

The breakfast is a memorable spread of home-baked cakes (vegan and gluten-free, too) and your traditional savory delicacies such as ricotta, primo sale, focaccia, and capocollo. But the rooms within this masseria also leave their mark—a simple and delicate palette of white with only essential furnishings that recall farmhouses of the past. You’ll find charming little details like an olive branch in place of a wardrobe, reflecting the farmer’s habit of hanging his jacket on a tree before starting work in the fields. At night, a spray of lavender oil awaits you on your pillow.

Masseria Dagilupi, Ostuni

Danielle and Jean Louis fell in love with the authenticity of Puglia while on holiday and ended up relocating from Strasbourg seven years ago. They chose Ostuni as a base for their Maison d’Hôtes Masseria Dagilupi, where the Valle d’Itria and Salento collide, and expanses of olive groves flourish above deep, red earth. The Masseria is housed within an ancient oil mill, with three suites that retain their original white-washed stone, vaulted ceilings, and arched coves that once served as storage units to conserve the olive oil. Interiors are a mix of tradition, such as Enza Fasano vases and tableware, and refreshing contemporary touches like the Patricia Urquiola-designed bathtub in the Terrace Suite Ostuni.

Masseria Galeta, Nardò

For a visit to Nardò—an authentic Italian gem with its splendid baroque façades, grand piazzas, and few tourists—Masseria Galeta is an ideal base just a 20-minute drive away. The Masseria has a wonderful rustic and country vibe, and along with a guesthouse, it also operates as a farm breeding cattle and goats. There are only three rooms between the 16th-century watchtower and farmhouse, where simple, antique furnishings enhance the atmosphere of an authentic, historical Masseria. Meant to be savored around a large, long table, breakfast is a moment of conviviality where guests can come together over homemade delights.

Don Ferrante, Monopoli

This 10-room charmer is built into the walls of Monopoli, a characterful sea-girt warren of whitewashed houses that feels more Greek than Italian. The bedrooms are classy accommodations under the vaults of what was once an 18th- century nobleman's house. The real clincher is the roof terrace and bar, where sunset aperitivi are served.

Paragon 700, Ostuni

Palazzo Rosso laid abandoned for 40 years before designers Pascale Lauber and Ulrike Bauschke stumbled upon it. Behind a façade of rusticated Pompei red stone, they found a dusty interior of frescoes, majolica tiles, sweeping staircases, and high-ceilinged grandeur. Paragon 700—their 11-room hotel—threw open its doors in 2021. A mischievous sense of design uplifts austere spaces with eclectic art and Gothicky furnishings. Don’t miss the spa—a candlelit netherworld that was once an underground cistern.

Palazzo Maresgallo, Lecce

Palazzo Maresgallo manifests as a sprawl of galleries, balconies, and roof terraces in a garden of lemon trees. Instead of hallways lined with gloomy pictures of ancestors, the stunning property is filled with imaginative furniture from renowned designers and unforgettable art. It's no surprise that the owners, two couples, are collectors.

Castello di Ugento, Ugento

At the highest point of the small town of Ugento, 15 miles from Puglia's southernmost point, one gleaming monument stands out from its sun-faded neighbors. It took 18 months to sandblast Castello di Ugento's dilapidated pietra leccese walls back to their original honey hue, part of a nearly $16,000,000 renovation that breathed new life into the once-majestic palazzo. Three state-of-the-art kitchens were built within the property for Culinary Institute of America students to learn authentic Italian methods.

Pugliese produce is championed elsewhere in the castle too, with embroidered fabrics, handmade ceramics, and organic olive-oil soaps and shampoos. Design-savvy guests will appreciate the furniture, from Ceccotti loveseats to reupholstered vintage Poltrona Frau armchairs. The nine bedrooms combine original architectural features with contemporary cosseting: sleep under a star-vaulted ceiling or shower in a rediscovered vault. The marriage of ancient and avant-garde continues in the museum wing, where 17th-century frescoes provide a backdrop to modern art exhibitions. In the restaurant, the glass floor reveals a Norman tower that was excavated during the renovations.

Don Totu, San Cassiano

Milanese owners Chiara and Mauro Bini turned their historic dimora storica into a village house with all the punch of a top-notch hotel. Lush green cacti-filled gardens are bright against the creamy stonework; inside, original Salentine tiled floors are paired with grey and taupe linens and artwork from around the world. There are only six bedrooms (all vast, and each with its own terrace), so the enormous pool is usually all yours. At one end, a loggia houses an 18-metre-long replica of Matisse’s La Piscine beneath Art Deco chandeliers shipped over from the old Biltmore Hotel in Miami .

Its flat roof turns into an outdoor cinema at night, for subtitled films with pizza and ice cream. Sweat it off the next morning with the daily 8 a.m. yoga session or book the private hammam for a Turkish bath. Food-wise you can help yourself to everything in the kitchen—still-warm bread, tarts, flans, hams, cheese, and fruit for breakfast. From here, enjoy a never-ending procession of chocolate truffles, Italian pastries, and sugar-dusted biscuits during the day. You aren’t completely left to your own devices: the manager is always on hand for expert restaurant suggestions and local know-how. For beach trips, the staff will prepare a bag with towels and bottled water, plus there are bicycles and Vespas to borrow. Don Tuto is a B&B, yes, but better than some of the very best hotels down here In Italy’s heel.

Masseria Torre Coccaro, Savelletri

Dominated by a 16th-century watchtower that later became a fortified farmhouse, Masseria Torre Coccaro is a delightfully laid-back place that serves both families and couples (it can arrange kids' pizza lessons as well as a quick round on the golf course). The owner is mover and shaker Vittorio Muolo—one of the founding fathers of the masserie and beach club scene in Puglia's fishing village of Savelletri—who opened Torre Coccaro back in 2002. The rooms combine Puglian rusticity with touches of Frenchified elegance.

Borgo Egnazia, Savelletri

There is nothing in Puglia quite like this: Borgo Egnazia is a vast hotel-village with a riad feel that sprawls luxuriantly over three areas. Head to the center, and you'll find a gorgeous 63-room masseria hotel. Families tend to opt for the more relaxed apartments, which give on to the lanes and piazzas of a tasteful faux-rural hamlet. For larger groups, there are 29 individual villas with private pools. Borgo Egnazia can absorb well over 300 people in high season, yet it's remarkably easy to carve out a private corner. There are four pools, as many restaurants (in varying venues from cellars to the beach), and an ethno-glam spa with a cinema. Local advisors sort tours or activities and indulge guests' whims: there's even a dedicated, in-house bicycle rental guy.

Masseria Prosperi, Otranto

Mercedes Prosperi's mother and sister run Masseria Montelauro —a reference point for fans of Puglian country allure—but here near Laghi Alimini, Prosperi has carved out a refreshingly kooky fiefdom of her own. A lifelong animal lover, she keeps horses, donkeys, goats, and geese on this bohemian working farm. Though the location—right behind a less exalted masseria hotel—could be better, the mix of vintage and modern design of this new-build six-room retreat is seductive.

Masseria Calderisi, Savelletri

It was built in 1656, but these days this fortified farmhouse is all clean lines offset with steel blue windows and doors. The cobbled threshing floor acts as a piazza between the dining terrace and tiny family chapel, between the spa and sunken orchard. It is tempting to surrender to the lavender-framed pool and long lunches of grilled fish. As evening cool washes over the Masseria, the apero terrace is the place to catch the last rays of sun—the clink of Negronis from the aperitivo bar blending with the sounds of laid-back music and the hum of the cicadas.

Palazzo Luce, Lecce

Milanese art collector Anna Maria Enselmi embarked on a four-year project to create this seven-suite hotel (and at-times exclusive rental) and living art gallery. Works by William Kentridge, Giuliano Dal Molin, Marina Abramović, Vanessa Beecroft, Marzia Migliora, and Thomas Ruff—as well as 20th-century Italian furniture—dazzle in its rooms and cavernous salon. Two libraries, a small spa with hammam and Pilates studio, a bar in metal cabinetry, and a lap pool overlooking the Roman theatre are more recent additions.

Masseria Cimino

This one is sweet and discreet, while its sister hotel Borgo Egnazia is big, bold, and grand. A side project of the latter's owner-manager Aldo Melpignano, it's a plum-red, 18th-century fortified masseria surrounded by olive groves, and makes a virtue of its simplicity. The farmhouse bedrooms are elegant but authentic, and breakfasts and dinners are good, unfussy local fare (Pugliese pasta dishes made with vegetables grown in the garden). The property is a wonderfully unpretentious antidote to some of the region's dressier places to eat and stay.

La Fiermontina, Lecce

Opened in June, La Fiermontina represents a return to his ancestral roots for French-born owner Giacamo Fiermonte, whose grandmother moved to Paris from Lecce in the 1930s. Twelve years ago, he bought one of the few historic palazzos within the city walls still in private hands and worked with local architect Antonio Annicchiarico and Parisian interiors firm Charles-Philippe and Christophe to create a different Lecce hotel. It's a little like a designer monastery, a discreetly stylish refuge in the center of town combining star-vaulted ceilings with vintage modernist furnishings by Charlotte Perriand and contemporary art from the owner's private collection. The large walled garden consists mostly of ancient olive trees, beyond which lies the cool green pool. In the restaurant, Simone Solido serves up authentic local dishes such as ciceri e tria (pasta and chickpeas) with less-is-more flair.

Masseria Le Fabriche

This is a stone masseria built on a rise above a sweep of vineyards in Maruggio. The sophisticated interiors are a little Milan (a plum-hued designer sofa) and a touch peasant-chic (ceramic tchotchkes from nearby Grottaglie). There are 18 cool rooms set in the estate's olive groves, like vastly spruced-up versions of estate farmworkers' quarters. The restaurant serves perfect local dishes—mozzarella-filled ravioli—accompanied by some very good house wine. Nearby beaches such as Conte d'Ayala give those in the Maldives a run for their money. And all this at a price that remains sane even in high season.

Palazzo Daniele, Salento

Salento, at the tip of Italy’s heel, is both a land’s end peninsula and a crossroads of cultures—some locals still speak an ancient Greek dialect. Gabriele Salini of GS Collection decided to partner with art curator Francesco Petrucci after Petrucci inherited his family’s 19th-century townhouse in lively Gagliano del Capo. Salini worked closely with the architects to take things back to essentials, to ‘exalt the void’ has, of course, exaggerated the grandeur of the place. Within this property, there are stripped-back walls, industrial lamps, monastically simple bedrooms that highlight the ceiling frescoes, mirrored salons, and a courtyard that calls for wild The Leopard-like soirées. The six-bedroom setting so beguiled French travel disruptor Thierry Teyssier that he launched his pop-up hotel concept 700,000 Heures here last autumn. Some of the region’s best beaches are a short drive away, but a cool, dark slick of swimming pool and lemon-filled orchard are persuasive reasons to stay put.

Sextantio le Grotte della Civita, Matera

While Matera may not strictly be in Puglia—it sits just over the border in the neighboring Basilicata region—it’s a great addition to any Puglian road trip. Rich in history, the ancient Sassi di Matera (sassi meaning ‘stones’) is a UNESCO World Heritage site , with homes and hotels carved into the tufa limestone. Sitting on a rugged hill above the la Gravina ravine and facing Murgia National Park is this breathtaking hotel converted from a church. Each stone was carefully removed and replaced to fit an underground system for water, electricity, and heating—interiors are relatively untouched and feel a million miles from any contemporary design hotel. Rooms, as you would expect from their ancient origins, vary massively in terms of shape and size. Each opens with a giant metal key and are dimly lit by several cream candles, mimicking Matera’s cityscape at early dusk.

The design is simple: high whitewashed ceilings, a stone arch that leads to an open-plan bathroom with a freestanding bath; a king-size bed with hand-woven crisp linen sheets; and dark rustic wooden furnishings. The biggest cave is the space that housed the church, and its cavernous stone heft is softened with handcrafted ceramic vases stuffed with purple dried flowers and bowls of prickly-jewel cacti fruit. This is where breakfast is served, sturdy oak tables dressed in linen and laden with a serious breakfast spread of burrata, ricotta, bruschetta, cured meats, and a bakery-worthy display of fresh-baked Italian bread.

Masseria Potenti, Manduria

The creation of Milan-based pugliesi Paolo Tommasino and Maria Grazia Di Lauro, this masseria nails sophisticated, barefoot chic like few others. Di Lauro's taste and eye for detail come through in the rustic-modern interiors, and the service is genuine and warm. Close to some of Puglia's best beaches, Masseria Potenti is just one of a handful of places to stay in the Manduria area, a seaside frontier dotted with nature reserves and Primitivo vineyards (like the hotel's own). Alongside wine, healthy food is a big part of any stay here: just good, garden-fresh regional dishes—such as the delicious aubergine polpette—courtesy of a talented local mother-and-daughter team, who also rustle up sumptuous breakfast feasts based on the hotel's own produce. There's a real spiritual energy to this place, so it's no surprise it has become a popular spot for yoga retreats .

Masseria Alchimia, Savelletri

You can experience the most amazing authentic Puglian breakfast at the Agricola Monte: fresh cured ham, scrambled eggs from the chickens you can hear clucking across the driveway, sticky honey from the hives at the end of the garden, and jams—the result of the previous season’s orchard leftovers. In the little shop, stock up aromatic green olive oil from the surrounding groves, labeled with the date it was pressed. All this is a five-minute stroll through the immaculate farmland of Masseria Alchimia, Swiss owner Caroline Groszer's labor of love. She has transformed the whitewashed masseria, creating a handful of absurdly well-priced apartments, perfect accommodations for summer stays. Inside, Groszer’s aesthetic is considered and crisp—wishbone chairs and retro lights paired with bespoke glass art and private terraces with Acapulco chairs for catching the last of the afternoon sun.

Rooms come with kitchenettes (pastel-colored Smeg toasters, a proper coffee pot, with fresh ground beans ready to use) so that you can whip up the spoils from the farm into a light supper. Gardens include rows of plum trees, a wall of tumbling cacti, a towering palm—the emblem of the Masseria—and a sweet set of swings and a slide.

A version of this article originally appeared in Condé Nast Traveller .

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