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HOPSCOTCH TRAVEL (Edinburgh) - All You Need to Know BEFORE You Go

Hopscotch Travel - Edinburgh

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St. Andrews & Fife Private Day Tour in Luxury MPV from Edinburgh

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Hopscotch Travel - All You MUST Know Before You Go (2024)

Hopscotch Travel

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St. Andrews & Fife Private Day Tour in Luxury MPV from Edinburgh

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Loch Ness Private Day Tour in Luxury MPV from Edinburgh

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Glasgow Private City Day Tour in Luxury MPV from Edinburgh

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Highland Perthshire and Whisky Day Tour in Luxury MPV from Edinburgh

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CalMac ferries island hopping in Scotland

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CalMac ferries tickets are included with your Hebridean Hopscotch holiday, as well as accommodation and any chosen air travel.

CalMac ferries to the Outer Hebrides with Hebridean Hopscotch

Take your time, relax and enjoy the scenery passing by during your CalMac ferry crossing.  As well as being leisurely, this is a great value way to travel, thanks to Scottish Government subsidies.  RET (Road Equivalent Tariff) ferry fares are designed to keep ferry travel prices down for tourists and local residents alike.

CalMac ferries staff offer a warm welcome to the Outer Hebrides

Staff at CalMac Ferries play an important part in providing hospitality to our visitors. You’ll find them friendly, helpful and accommodating.  This attitude has resulted in the company winning many awards including Guardian/Observer Best Ferry Company and the  Scottish Transport Award.

On the holidays pages you’ll see some of the Hopscotch routes and Calmac ferries to and from the Hebrides – your Hebridean Hopscotch holiday advisor will be happy to help you select the most suitable for your holiday, even if it is not shown in our lists of suggested Calmac itineraries.

Driving to board your Hebrides ferry

Although it takes longer than travelling here by air, the journey by road and sea really is part of your holiday, giving you opportunities to explore other Scottish highlights on the way, perhaps the mountains and glens of the Highlands, or the west coast. With the many improvements of recent years, the main road to the isles of the Outer Hebrides is now an easy drive.

From the motorway near Perth, follow wide, smooth trunk roads past Inverness to Ullapool, then take a short voyage on Caledonian MacBrayne’s flagship, the Loch Seaforth with observation lounge, restaurant, bar, children’s play area – and some of the finest views in Scotland.

Or take the scenic route to Oban or the Isle of Skye and cross with another of CalMac’s modern ships – these ships are surprisingly large – roughly the length of a football pitch.

Calmac ferries MV Isle of Lewis

The ferries are all drive-on / drive-off and offer a relaxed, stress free journey.

A car is the ideal way to visit Scotland and see the islands but it’s not essential – whether you travel here by train, coach or bike, we can provide just the holiday to suit you – all you need do is give one of our friendly holiday advisors a call on 01851 706611 and they will help plan your ideal Hebridean island hopping holiday.

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Fill in our holiday planner and we will get back to you with a made to measure quotation based on your requests.

There’s no better way to arrange your holiday than to have a chat with one of our expert local holiday advisors. Because we all live in (and love) the Outer Hebrides, we can guarantee a special level of first hand advice that you won’t get elsewhere.

Call us on 01851 706611 during normal office hours (it’s a standard rate call). Or click here to request a free callback .

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Cyclist at Machrie Standing Stones

Scottish Island Hopscotch

Rich peaty whiskies, rugged coasts, prolific wildlife and romantic island hideaways. Discover the Scotland of your dreams on an island hopping cycling holiday on the Islands of Arran, Islay and Jura.

Discover Scotland’s most famous whisky distilleries on this island-hopping cycling holiday, riding across the islands of Arran, Islay and Jura.

Catching the ferry from mainland Scotland to Arran marks the start of your island-hopping adventure. Well known for its stunning scenery ride through a landscape of jagged peaks, rolling hills and rugged coastal roads, Arran craft breweries produce excellent ales, perfect for quenching a cyclists' thirst.

From Arran catch the ferry to Kintyre and pedal across the peninsula to the Isle of Islay. Small whitewashed villages and vast empty beaches make the Isle of Islay a very special place. Home to the world-renowned distilleries of Lagavulin, Laphroig, Bowmore and Bruichladdich, Islay also boasts several smaller, independent distilleries such as Kilchoman that is worth a visit. The last island to explore is the remote island of Jura, excellent to spot red deer, explore wild Atlantic coastline and visit the famous Jura distillery. Rounding off each day in cosy, family run B&B’s and inn’s, enjoy meeting local islanders over a wee dram in the village pub!

From £825 per adult

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Macs Adventure Ltd

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Macs Adventure is Scotland's leading active travel company, specialising in self guided walking and cycling holidays across Scotland. Established in Glasgow in 2003, we have spent the last 15 years ensuring our customers have the very best, immersive hiking and biking experiences this glorious country has to offer, with 98% of customers saying they would recommend us to a friend. Our trips are available any day from March to October and include hand-picked accommodation, door-to-door baggage transfers, guidebooks, maps and access to our App, to make sure you never take a wrong turn.

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Introducing our incredible range of new multi-day tours from Edinburgh and Glasgow!

  • February 28, 2024
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We are delighted to announce a captivating selection of multi-day tour options designed to immerse you in the breathtaking beauty and the rich heritage of Scotland. Whether you’re a history buff, a nature enthusiast, or a whisky connoisseur, our curated itineraries promise an escape from the everyday, providing a perfect blend of adventure, relaxation, and cultural enrichment. Here are our most popular tours…

3-Day Skye Spectacle: Majestic Isles and Rugged Beauty

A view on Portree before sunset, Isle of Skye, Scotland

Discover the mystical Isle of Skye, where rugged landscapes meet enchanting folklore. Travel through the iconic landmarks, from scenic Loch Lubnaig to historic Eilean Donan Castle, culminating in the charming town of Portree. Three days of awe-inspiring landscapes and Celtic wonders await! Tour details available here  

2-Day Loch Ness Adventure: Mysteries Unveiled

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Experience a thrilling two-day quest around the legendary Loch Ness. Explore the mysteries surrounding the depths, visit historic sites, and take in the stunning scenery. The question lingers: Will you catch a glimpse of the elusive Nessie? Tour details available here

3-Day Isle of Mull Tour: Untamed Wilderness and Coastal Charm

Duart Castle in daylight, Isle of Mull, Scotland

Immerse yourself in the beauty of the Isle of Mull. Witness its coastal charm, explore historic castles, and soak in the serene landscapes. A three-day escapade awaits, promising an intimate connection with Scotland’s western isles. Tour details available here

3-Day Speyside Whisky Adventure: Raise Your Glass to Tradition 

SPEYSIDE WHISKY ADVENTURE

For all whisky aficionados, our Speyside Whisky Adventure is a dream come true. Delve into the heart of Scotch whisky production, tour renowned distilleries, and savour the flavours of Speyside. A three-day journey that blends history, culture, and the golden elixir – this tour departs from Edinburgh only. Tour details available here

5-Day Highland Highlights: A Grand Scottish Odyssey

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Embark on the ultimate Highland odyssey, spanning five days of awe-inspiring landscapes, historic castles, and cultural treasures. From Loch Ness to Glen Coe, Skye to the Cairngorms, this tour offers a grand exploration of Scotland’s highlights. Tour details available here

Discover our full range multi-day tours departing from Edinburgh and Glasgow, complete with detailed itineraries. Visit our website to learn more: Hopscotch Travel .  Remember, all our tours are completely customisable so contact us if you’d like to arrange a bespoke tour.

So, come on, Scotland is calling you – are you ready to answer? Escape with us and create memories that will last a lifetime. #ScotlandTours #TravelWithUs #HighlandAdventure #ScotlandTours #WhiskyAficionados #CoastalCharm #SkyeSpectacle #LochNessAdventure #IsleofMull #SpeysideWhiskyAdventure #HighlandHighlights 

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Ferries in scotland – a practical guide for island hopping.

White sandy beaches, crystal clear waters, stunning mountain scenery and endless coastlines – that is what you can expect from the Scottish Islands. But where should you begin? This practical guide will show you how to wrap your head around ferries in Scotland!

This post contains affiliate links from which I may make a commission. Find out more here . All opinions are my own.

This post answers all the practical questions you might have about island hopping in Scotland:

  • who are the different ferry operators?
  • how do I buy tickets for Scottish ferries?
  • what do I need to do at the ferry terminal?
  • what is it like to be onboard a Scottish ferry?
  • how can I include islands in my itinerary? and
  • are there any organised island hopping tours?

If you are looking for a rundown of Scottish islands to give you an idea which might be the best for your Scotland itinerary, check out this post first  and come back here to figure out the logistics.

You might also want to check out my guide to planning a Scotland holiday , my Scotland packing list or my budget-saving travel tips .

Still looking for advice on island hopping? Let’s dive right in!

Dreaming of Scotland? Listen to my immersive travel podcast Wild for Scotland !

Table of Contents

How to get to the Scottish Islands

Most Scottish islands are serviced by two of Scotland’s major ferry operators: Calmac or Northlink Ferries.

Calmac operates connections to most islands on the Scottish west coast, such as Skye, Mull, the Outer Hebrides and Islay. There are several ferry hubs along the coast – Oban, Mallaig and Ullapool pop up for many island hopping itineraries, but depending on which islands are on your itinerary you might also want to leave from ports such as Ardrossan, Kennacraig or Uig on Skye.

Northlink Ferries operates ferries to Orkney and Shetland from Thurso on the North Coast 500 and Aberdeen on the East Coast.

There are many smaller ferry operators servicing shorter ferry routes, such as John O Groats Ferries between John O Groats and Orkney, Western Ferries between Gourock and Dunoon or the Corran Ferry from Nether Lochaber to Ardgour.

You can bring a car across to most islands, however, there are some Scottish isles that are car-free or limit the use of cars to locals. These are serviced by smaller passenger ferries , such as the Isle of Kerrera or the Small Isles, Rum, Muck and Eigg. Some “ferries” are actually just boats that fit around 10 people – for example, the Ulva Ferry from Mull to Ulva or the Handa Ferry on the NC500.

The only island that is connected to the Scottish mainland by a bridge is the Isle of Skye. That means you can save money and travel to Skye on the road. But it also makes Skye the most popular Scottish island with the highest footfall – and it gets busy in the summer!

A beach and houses seen from the Isle GO boat on Coll.

Buying Ferry Tickets

I highly recommend booking tickets in advance for major ferry connections, such as boats to the Isle of Skye, the Isle of Mull, the Outer Hebrides, Islay, Arran, Orkney or Shetland. There are only so many ferry crossings per day (or per week) – even in the summer season – which means there is a limit to the number of cars that can sail across. Many of these crossings are incredibly popular and your preferred times (early morning or evening crossings) may book out months in advance.

You can book tickets for many popular Calmac ferries and Northlink Ferries online, but there are some smaller routes that cannot be booked in advance. These services are operated on a first come, first serve basis. Make sure you check the ferry connection you plan to take before your trip, so you are not caught out by surprise.

Top tip : If you travel by rental car and book ferry tickets in advance, you can select “I don’t know” in the field asking for your car’s registration number.

Hopscotch Tickets

As the ferry operator with the most routes in operation, Calmac offers a variety of combination packages to make island hopping in Scotland even easier. These tickets called Hopscotch can cover a variety of routes on suggested itineraries across the Scottish islands and are valid for 31 days from the date of the first journey. They don’t offer any discount but are a convenient solution if you want to make sure you book all the correct ferries for your itinerary.

Find out more about Hopscotch tickets here .

ferry to the Isle of Rum

Arriving at the Ferry Terminal

When you booked a ferry ticket in advance, you should arrive at the ferry terminal about 30 minutes before the advertised sailing time to check in. Otherwise, they might fill your spot! At some terminals, you have to enter the ferry terminal and check in at a registration desk; at smaller terminals, a member of staff might come up to your car to check you in.

When you take a smaller ferry on a first come, first serve basis, you should aim to arrive well in advance of your preferred sailing time – 40 to 60 minutes. Alternatively, be prepared to take a later ferry if it is very busy.

At the ferry terminal, an attendant will direct you to a lane to park in and wait until the ferry is ready for boarding.

Boarding a Scottish Ferry

Once the ferry is ready for boarding, an attendant will signal you to drive onto the ferry and point you towards the correct lane to park. Keep an eye out for other members of staff waving you through and follow their instructions. The same counts for when you disembark at the other end. 

In an effort to get as many vehicles as possible onto the ferry, they instruct drivers to park really close together. It can actually feel a little claustrophobic. Driving slowly and with utmost care is essential.

Usually, passengers should stay on the vehicle and disembark together with the driver once the car is safely parked on the ferry. On some crossings, passengers should board on foot and only drivers remain in the car to drive on.  Once on the ferry, everyone has to leave the car deck for safety purposes. The ferry staff will make an announcement for drivers to return to their vehicles shortly before arriving at the destination.

Cyclists are usually asked to push their bikes onto the ferry before cars board. On large ferries, pedestrians board via a separate gangway, but on small ferries, you might simply walk onto the ferry before cars board. 

When boarding a ferry, a member of staff will usually collect your ferry ticket from you. Some destinations might also require you to fill in a landing card so that local authorities know who is on the islands.

On the ferry to Islay

On Board a Scottish Ferry

Scottish ferries come in different sizes and with varying facilities. Routes such as the Northlink Ferries connection between Aberdeen and Shetland have overnight cabins and a spacious restaurant – they feel almost like cruise ships. On shorter crossings, such as between the islands of the Outer Hebrides, the ferries offer little more than a vending machine, an outdoor observation area and an interior lounge for bad weather.

The majority of popular Calmac ferries I have come across have a restaurant or at least a cafe on board for hot drinks and meals and usually also a bar for alcoholic beverages. 

Most larger ferries have an observation deck with panoramic views towards the front of the boat as well as comfortable chairs and TVs along the sides. Near the cafe, bar and restaurant you will find plenty of tables and seats. If the weather is good, I like to hang out at the outdoor decks as long as possible and watch the Scottish coastline fly by. 

Many ferries also have child-friendly play areas set aside. Pets travel for free with Calmac, but facilities vary – sometimes you might find a designated pet area. Bigger boats usually have plenty of space for luggage, if you are travelling without a car. Bikes also travel for free on ferries and will be stored on the car deck.

Food on Ferries

The restaurant food on Scottish ferries is freshly prepared and tastes surprisingly good! Options range from breakfast rolls and fully cooked breakfasts on morning ferries to main meals such as baked jacket potatoes with different fillings, fish & chips, pies, curries, burgers and pizzas.

Nowadays, Calmac also offers proper vegan options in their on-board restaurants. On morning ferries, you should be able to get a vegan breakfast with vegetarian sausages. At sailings around lunch and dinner time, there should be at least one vegan option on the main menu too – at the very least a veggie curry, or if you’re lucky a plant-based burger.

Mind though, that ferries that only have a cafe & shop, rather than a full restaurant, might not have any vegan options – they usually only have pre-packaged sandwiches and they are rarely vegan-friendly.

If you’re on a longer crossing, it’s best to pack snacks.

The Scottish mountains through the window of a Calmac ferry.

Wildlife Watching

If you are lucky your ferry crossings doubles up as a wildlife cruise! Dolphins and porpoises are regularly spotted between the islands and even whale sightings are not out of question.

TOP TIP During the spring and summer months, Calmac works with ORCA , an NGO that works for the protection of dolphins and whales to conduct wildlife surveys on board some of their routes. If you see an ORCA Officer on board, feel free to approach them and ask them questions about the local wildlife. You can find their route schedule here .

What to do on a long ferry crossing

The ferries offer WiFi, but it is usually not very fast or does not work at all – I somehow have never managed to keep myself busy on my phone after we left the ferry terminal. 

There are TV lounges and bars on board most ferries. Here are a few things I would recommend doing on a long ferry ride:

  • Spend time on deck and take photos of the Scottish coastline.
  • Bring a book and curl up in a comfy chair. 
  • Listen to podcasts or audiobooks on your phone.
  • Make new friends and exchange travel stories.
  • Or play a game of cards – don’t forget to bring a deck.

Dealing with Seasickness

Crossings to islands such as Mull or Skye are fairly sheltered, so unless you are very sensitive towards seasickness, you should be fine. Longer crossings, such as the Isle of Coll, the Outer Hebrides or to Shetland might be trickier, especially if the sea is rough going.

The only time I have really struggled myself was on the overnight ferry to Shetland. We travelled there in January for Up Helly Aa and a storm hit the boat throughout the night. I can usually avoid feeling dizzy or sick by looking out the window and focussing on the horizon, but when you are inside a cabin and it’s pitch-black outside, there is not much you can do.

Here are some tips to avoid sea-sickness on rough crossings:

  • Look out the window and focus on the horizon.
  • Eat something with ginger – it’s a natural remedy for motion sickness.
  • If all else fails on longer crossings, take sea sickness pills. Just be aware that they might make you drowsy and thus unable to drive.

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Planning Scottish Island Holidays

Right, now that you know everything about the practicalities of taking ferries to the Scottish islands, it is time to pick your islands and put together an island hopping itinerary. 

Choosing which Scottish Islands to go to

Choosing the perfect islands for your Scotland itinerary is tricky – they are all so gorgeous! Ask yourself what you want to get out of your time on the islands, how many days you’ve got, what mode of transport you are using – like do you have a hire car? – what kind of activities you are interested in and how much time you are willing to spend on a ferry.

If you mainly want to focus on the mainland, but add an island or two, I recommend choosing those with quick crossings and near other islands to maximise your island hopping. If you have two weeks and want to focus primarily on islands, your itinerary will look completely different.

My overview of Scottish islands  is a great starting point if you are not quite sure what the different islands have to offer and how long you should spend on each.

Suggested Island Hopping itineraries

Many islands can fit very seamlessly into traditional Scotland itineraries, but others require you to set aside more time or go a bit out of your way.

Use my Outer Hebrides itinerary or my Inner Hebrides itinerary to easily plan your island hopping adventure in Scotland like a pro.

The Isle of Skye can easily link into my classic 7-day itinerary through the Highlands, but could also be substituted for the Isle of Mull, if you want to go a bit more off the beaten track. If you have a few extra days and want a dose of wilderness, the Small Isles are also nearby.

If you focus on the Southern Highlands and the region of Argyll – my favourite – then your island opportunities are almost endless. Tiree, Coll, Colonsay and Mull can be reached from Oban within a few hours, Islay and Jura are at the doorstep of Kennacraig and the isles of Arran and Bute are both within a few hours reach of Glasgow. Check out my 2-week island hopping itinerary for the west coast, which can also be cut to one week or less!

Orkney can be combined with a road trip around the North Coast 500 , while Shetland really requires its own adventure by taking the overnight ferry from Aberdeen.

The Outer Hebrides are quite far away from the mainland. Harris and Lewis could fit well into an extended North Coast 500 loop or can be combined with a trip to Skye. However, if you want to make the most of a trip to these islands, you will have to dedicate more time to them and also visit Uist and Barra.

Need help with your itinerary? Hire me as a travel consultant and let me help you plan an itinerary that is 100% YOU!

Iona in Scotland

Scottish Island Tours

Many organised multi-day tours around Scotland include island destinations – for example, I have done dedicated tours to the Isle of Arran and the Isle of Islay in the past. Some islands can also be visited on independent or organised day trips. Mostly smaller islands such as Staffa or the Isle of May, but even the Isle of Skye is not out of reach if you are based in Inverness.

Here are some suggestions for tours to Scottish islands:

  • 3-day Isle of Arran tour incl. beautiful castles, standing stones, a visit to a whisky distillery and two different ferry trips – read my review of this tour here !
  • 4-day Isle of Islay tour incl. several whisky distilleries and the natural beauty of the island – read my review of this tour here !
  • 3-day tour to the Isle of Skye from Edinburgh or 1-day Skye tour from Inverness.
  • 5- to 6-day tours to Orkney and the Outer Hebrides + Skye .
  • Rabbie’s even offers two longer Island Hopping itineraries of 14 days or 17 days that include Mull, Skye, Iona, Orkney, and the Outer Hebrides!

You will know yourself if guided group tours are up your street, but I encourage you to give them a try. As much as I love independent exploring, I’m a group tour convert as long as the groups are reasonably small (Rabbie’s only has 16-seater mini-coaches) and the itinerary not too busy. The driver-guides are a wealth of information and always provide the best commentary and context for the places you visit. They also work with local businesses and can adapt the itinerary to include something for everyone in the group.

You might also like:  Unique Experiences on Islay, Jura & Colonsay

A small tour group with Rabbie's on Islay

Islands can be hard to impossible to explore without your own transport, so guided tours are the perfect alternative if you do not want to hire a car. I love the fact that I don’t have to drive myself when I go on a tour!

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11 thoughts on “ Ferries in Scotland – A Practical Guide for Island Hopping ”

Hi there – I have approx 7 days to island hop perhaps starting at Oban using a Hopscotch ticket – my wife and I and our dog. Stopping overnight as we travel – just don’t know where to start or how to plan ferry bookings with the overnight accommodation ?

Hi Damian, it really depends on what you’re after – there are so many islands you can go to from Oban, but many require you to go back to Oban before you can take another ferry to the next. Some are connected among each other though, like Coll + Tiree. If you’d like my help planning an island hopping itinerary for your trip, you can book a free enquiry call here to discuss how I can help: https://tidycal.com/wms/watch-me-see-itinerary-enquiry

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Do you think it’s entirely impractical to try and do Arran and then Col in 6 days?! They’re not close really… I’ve loved these articles thank you!

Hi Bethan, I’m not sure if 6 days is enough, simply for the fact that the Coll ferry is a little bit longer and less frequent. Have a look at Calmac to check their timetables. You could spend 1-2 nights on Arran, then take the small ferry from Lochranza to Kintyre and make your way to Oban. You may have to stay overnight there if the ferry only goes in the morning. Then some nights on Coll and drive.hoke again, again depending on ferry times and where home is, you may want to plan for a night on the mainland – but it means you’d only have shorter stays on the islands. Hope this helps! Cheers, Kathi

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I have really enjoyed this article. You have inspired me to begin creating an itinerary. Thank you Kathi 🙂

Very happy to hear! Would love to hear where you end up visiting 🙂

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This was a great starting point – especially appreciated your grouping suggestions towards the end. Onward!

Thanks for your comment – I’m glad you found the article useful! Happy trip planning 🙂

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