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Iraq Travel Advisory

Travel advisory april 24, 2024, iraq - level 4: do not travel.

Updated to reflect the termination of Ordered Departure of non-emergency U.S. government employees and eligible family members.

Do not travel to Iraq due to terrorism, kidnapping, armed conflict, civil unrest, and Mission Iraq’s limited capacity to provide support to U.S. citizens.

On April 1, 2024, the Department terminated the Ordered Departure status for U.S. Embassy Baghdad and U.S. Consulate General Erbil. However, the Travel Advisory level for Iraq remains at Level 4, advising that U.S. citizens not travel to Iraq.

Country Summary:  U.S. citizens in Iraq face high risks to their safety and security, including the potential for violence and kidnapping. Terrorist and insurgent groups regularly attack Iraqi security forces and civilians. Anti-U.S. militias threaten U.S. citizens and international companies throughout Iraq. Attacks using improvised explosive devices, indirect fire, and unmanned aerial vehicles occur in many areas of the country, including Baghdad and other major cities. In an emergency, consular services to U.S. citizens in Iraq are limited due to severe restrictions on the movements of U.S. government personnel.

Demonstrations, protests, and strikes occur frequently throughout the country. These events can develop quickly without prior notice, often interrupting traffic, transportation, and other services, and sometimes turning violent.

Do not travel near Iraq’s northern borders due to the continued threat of attacks by terrorist groups, armed conflict, aerial bombardment, and civil unrest. U.S. citizens should especially avoid areas near armed groups in northern Iraq, which have been targeted with aerial strikes by neighboring countries’ militaries.

U.S. citizens should not travel through Iraq to engage in armed conflict in Syria, where they would face extreme personal risks (kidnapping, injury, or death) and legal risks (arrest, fines, and expulsion). The Kurdistan Regional Government in Iraq has stated that it will impose prison sentences of up to ten years on individuals who illegally cross the Iraq-Syria border. Additionally, fighting on behalf of or supporting designated terrorist organizations is a crime under U.S. law that can result in prison sentences and large fines in the United States.

Because of security concerns, U.S. government personnel in Baghdad are instructed not to use Baghdad International Airport. Due to risks to civil aviation operating in the Baghdad Flight Information Region, the Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) has extended its Special Federal Aviation Regulation (SFAR) prohibiting certain flights at altitudes below 32,000 feet for an additional two years. For more information, U.S. citizens should consult the   Federal Aviation Administration’s Prohibitions, Restrictions, and Notices.

Read the country information page for additional information on travel to Iraq.

If you decide to travel to Iraq:

  • Establish your own personal security plan in coordination with your employer or host organization or consider consulting with a professional security organization.
  • Draft a will and designate appropriate insurance beneficiaries and/or power of attorney.
  • Discuss a plan with loved ones regarding care/custody of children, pets, property, belongings, non-liquid assets (collections, artwork, etc.), funeral wishes, etc.
  • Share important documents, login information, and points of contact with loved ones so that they can manage your affairs if you are unable to return as planned to the United States.
  • Visit our website for Travel to High-Risk Areas .
  • Enroll in the Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP) to receive alerts and make it easier to locate you in an emergency.
  • Follow the Department of State on Facebook and Twitter .
  • Review the Country Security Report for Iraq.
  • Visit the CDC website for the latest Travel Health Information related to your travel.
  • Prepare a contingency plan for emergency situations. Review the Traveler’s Checklist

Travel Advisory Levels

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Places the U.S. Government Warns Not to Travel Right Now

You may want to reconsider traveling to these countries right now.

Do Not Travel to These Countries

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Crime, civil unrest and terrorism are common risk factors for countries that end up on the State Department's "Do Not Travel" advisory list.

In 2024, tourism across the globe is “well on track” to return to pre-pandemic levels, according to projections by UN Tourism.

Global conflicts and natural disasters , ranging from a series of coups across Africa to catastrophic earthquakes in the Middle East affected international travel patterns throughout 2023. Still, international tourist arrivals reached 87% of pre-pandemic levels in 2023, according to estimates by UN Tourism .

In January 2024 alone, about 4.6 million U.S. citizens left the country for international destinations, 17% higher than the same month in 2019, according to the International Trade Administration . But some destinations warrant more caution than others.

On Oct. 19, 2023, following the outbreak of war between Israel and Gaza and flaring tensions in the region, the U.S. State Department issued a worldwide caution advisory due to “increased tensions in various locations around the world, the potential for terrorist attacks, demonstrations or violent actions against U.S. citizens and interests.” Prior to this update, the most recent worldwide caution advisory was issued in 2022 after a U.S. strike killed Ayman al-Zawahiri, Osama bin Laden’s successor as leader of Al Qaeda, causing “a higher potential for anti-American violence.” The worldwide caution advisory remains in effect.

The U.S. State Department also issues individual travel advisory levels for more than 200 countries globally, continually updating them based on a variety of risk indicators such as health, terrorism and civil unrest. Travel advisory levels range from Level 1, which means exercise normal precautions, to Level 4, which means do not travel there.

About 10% of countries – 19 total – have a Level 4: “Do Not Travel” advisory as of Mar. 4. In Level 4 countries, the U.S. government may have “very limited ability” to step in should travelers’ safety or security be at risk, according to the State Department. Crime, civil unrest, kidnapping and terrorism are common risk factors associated with Level 4 countries.

So far in 2024, the State Department made changes to the existing Level 4 advisories for Myanmar, Iran and Gaza, and moved Niger and Lebanon off of the Level 4 list.

Places With a Level 4 Travel Advisory

These are the primary areas the U.S. government says not to travel to right now, in alphabetical order:

Jump to Place: Afghanistan Belarus Burkina Faso Central African Republic Myanmar (formerly Burma) Gaza Haiti Iran Iraq Libya Mali Mexico North Korea (Democratic People's Republic of Korea) Russia Somalia South Sudan Sudan Syria Ukraine Venezuela Yemen

Afghanistan: The Central Asian country is wrestling with “terrorism, risk of wrongful detention, kidnapping and crime,” according to the State Department. U.S. citizens are specifically at risk for wrongful detention and kidnapping. In 2022, the government reinstituted public floggings and executions, and women’s rights are disappearing under Taliban control. The U.S. Embassy in Kabul halted operations in August 2021. Since the Taliban took control , many forms of international aid have been halted . Meanwhile, in 2023, some of the year’s deadliest earthquakes killed more than 2,400 in Afghanistan while the country continues to face a years-long extreme drought.

Belarus: Belarus, which shares a western border with Russia and a southern border with Ukraine, has been flagged for “Belarusian authorities’ continued facilitation of Russia’s war against Ukraine, the buildup of Russian military forces in Belarus, the arbitrary enforcement of local laws, the potential of civil unrest, the risk of detention, and the Embassy’s limited ability to assist U.S. citizens residing in or traveling to Belarus.” The U.S. Embassy in Minsk halted operations in February 2022.

Burkina Faso: Terrorism, crime and kidnapping are plaguing this West African nation. Terrorist attacks may target hotels, restaurants and schools with little to no warning, and the East and Sahel regions of the country are under a state of emergency. In late November 2023, hundreds died in clashes between state security forces and rebels near the country’s border with Mali. In June, more than 2 million people in Burkina Faso were displaced due to “violence linked to al-Qaida and the Islamic State group.”

Central African Republic: While there have not been specific incidents of U.S. citizens targeted with violence or crime, violent crime and sudden closure of roads and borders is common. The advisory states that “Embassy Bangui’s limited capacity to provide support to U.S. citizens, crime, civil unrest, and kidnapping” is a factor in its assessment. Recent data from UNICEF suggests the country has the worst drinking water accessibility of all countries in 2022.

Myanmar (Formerly Burma): Armed conflict and civil unrest are the primary reasons to not travel to this Southeast Asian country, which experienced a military coup in early 2021. Limited health care resources, wrongful detentions and “areas with land mines and unexploded ordnance” are also listed as risk factors. After Ukraine and Israel, Myanmar had the highest conflict-related death toll in 2023.

Gaza : Hamas, a foreign terrorist organization as designated by the State Department, controls much of the Gaza Strip, which shares borders with both Israel and Egypt. On Oct. 7, 2023, Hamas fighters broke across the border into Israel, killing hundreds of civilians and soldiers in a brazen attack that stunned Israelis. On Oct. 10, Israel hit the Gaza Strip with “the fiercest air strikes in its 75-year conflict” according to Reuters . The conflict has since escalated into war between Israel and Hamas, with regular Israeli airstrikes leading to extensive civilian casualties in Gaza. As of mid-December, nearly 85% of Gaza’s population were displaced from their homes, according to UN estimates . The region continues to face shortages of food , water, electricity and medical supplies , with conditions deemed “far beyond a humanitarian crisis.” The State Department warns of terrorism and armed conflict within Gaza’s borders.

Haiti: In July 2023, the Department of State ordered all non-emergency U.S. government personnel and family members to leave the U.S. Embassy in Port-au-Prince in response to the increased risk of kidnapping and violent crime in the country , as well as armed conflict between gangs and police. The travel advisory states that cases of kidnapping “often involve ransom negotiations and U.S. citizen victims have been physically harmed during kidnappings.” The travel advisory also states that “U.S. citizens in Haiti should depart Haiti as soon as possible” given “the current security situation and infrastructure challenges.” A series of gang attacks in late September 2023 caused thousands to flee their homes, and many aid groups have been forced to cut or suspend operations amid escalating violence in recent months.

Iran: Terrorism, kidnapping and civil unrest are risk factors for all travelers to Iran, while U.S. citizens are specifically at risk for “arbitrary arrest.” U.S.-Iranian nationals such as students, journalists and business travelers have been arrested on charges of espionage and threatening national security. Executions in Iran rose sharply between 2021 and 2022, bringing the country’s total to nearly 580 people over the year, according to a report by Amnesty International released in May 2023.

Iraq: The State Department cites “terrorism, kidnapping, armed conflict [and] civil unrest” as cause for the country’s Level 4 distinction. Iraq’s northern borders, and its border with Syria, are especially dangerous. Since the escalation of conflict in neighboring Israel in October, there has been an increase in attacks against Iraqi military bases, which host U.S. troops and other international forces. In October 2023, non-emergency U.S. government personnel and eligible family members were ordered to leave the U.S. embassy in Baghdad.

Libya: Following the end of its dictatorship over a decade ago, Libya has been wrought with internal conflict between armed groups in the East and West. Armed conflict, civil unrest, crime, kidnapping and terrorism are all risk factors. U.S. citizens have been targets of kidnapping for ransom, with terrorists targeting hotels and airports frequented by Westerners. The U.S. Embassy in Tripoli halted operations in 2014. In mid-September 2023, floods, which some say were intensified by climate change , killed thousands in eastern Libya. Clashes between armed factions escalated across the country in the latter half of 2023, including in the capital city of Tripoli and in Benghazi.

Mali: After experiencing military coups in 2020 and 2021, crime, terrorism and kidnapping are all prevalent threats in this West African landlocked nation. In July 2022, non-emergency U.S. government employees and their families were ordered to leave the country due to higher risk of terrorist activity. A U.N. report in August 2023 said that military groups in the country, including both Mali security forces and possibly Russian Wagner mercenaries, were spreading terror through the use of violence against women and human rights abuses. Democratic elections were supposed to occur in February 2024, but Mali’s military junta postponed the plans indefinitely. In December, the U.N. officially ended a decade-long peacekeeping presence in the country, which had been among the agency’s deadliest missions, with hundreds of the mission personnel killed since 2013.

Mexico: Each state in Mexico is assessed separately for travel advisory levels. Six of the 32 states in Mexico are designated as Level 4: Colima, Guerrero, Michoacan, Sinaloa, Tamaulipas and Zacatecas. Crime and kidnapping are listed as the primary risk factors throughout the country. Nearly 112,000 people were missing across the country as of October, a number the U.N. has called “alarming.”

North Korea (Democratic People’s Republic of Korea): U.S. passports are not valid for travel “to, in, or through” this country, home to one of the world's longest-running dynastic dictatorships. The travel advisory states that the Level 4 distinction is due to “the continuing serious risk of arrest and long-term detention of U.S. nationals.” In July 2023, a U.S. soldier fled across the border into North Korea, where he is believed to be in North Korean custody, the first American detained in the North in nearly five years. He was returned to U.S. custody in September 2023.

Russia: The travel advisory for Russia cites its invasion of Ukraine , harassment of U.S. citizens by Russian government officials and arbitrary law enforcement as a few of the reasons for the Level 4 designation. Chechnya and Mount Elbrus are specifically listed as Level 4 regions. Terrorism, civil unrest, health, kidnapping and wrongful detention are all noted as risks.

Russia Invades Ukraine: A Timeline

TOPSHOT - Black smoke rises from a military airport in Chuguyev near Kharkiv  on February 24, 2022. - Russian President Vladimir Putin announced a military operation in Ukraine today with explosions heard soon after across the country and its foreign minister warning a "full-scale invasion" was underway. (Photo by Aris Messinis / AFP) (Photo by ARIS MESSINIS/AFP via Getty Images)

Somalia: A severe drought resulting from five failed rainy seasons in a row killed 43,000 people in 2022, and caused a famine amid conflict with Islamist insurgents . Violent crime is common throughout Somalia , pirates frequent its coast off the Horn of Africa, and medical facilities, where they exist, have limited capacity. Crime, terrorism, civil unrest, health and kidnapping are all risk factors. In January 2024, some passengers aboard a U.N.-contracted helicopter were taken hostage by al-Shabaab militants after the vehicle crashed in central Somalia.

South Sudan: Crime, kidnapping and armed conflict are the primary risk factors for South Sudan, which separated from Sudan in 2011, making it the world’s newest country . Weapons are readily available, and travelers have been victims of sexual assault and armed robbery.

Sudan: The U.S. evacuated its embassy in Khartoum in April 2023, and the country closed its airspace due to the ongoing conflict in the country, only permitting humanitarian aid and evacuation efforts. Fighting has escalated in the region between two warring generals seeking to gain control after a military coup in 2021 ousted the country’s prime minister. Civil unrest is the primary risk factor for Africa’s third largest country by area. Crime, terrorism, kidnapping and armed conflict are also noted. The International Criminal Court began investigating alleged war crimes and violence against African ethnic groups in the country in 2023. Millions have fled their homes due to conflict, and the U.N. has said its efforts to provide aid have been hindered by a lack of support, safety and resources. As recently as December 2023, the United Nations warned of catastrophic famine , with millions of children at-risk for malnutrition .

Syria: The advisory states that “No part of Syria is safe from violence,” with terrorism, civil unrest, kidnapping, armed conflict and risk of unjust detention all potential risk factors. U.S. citizens are often a target for kidnappings and detention. The U.S. Embassy in Damascus halted operations in 2012. Fighting in neighboring Israel has escalated since October, and the conflict has spilled over into Syria, where the U.S. has carried out air strikes following drone and rocket attacks against American troops in Syria and Iraq, triggered by the Israel-Hamas war.

Ukraine: Russian setbacks in their invasion of Ukraine buoyed hopes in Ukraine in 2023. However, Ukraine is a Level 4 country due to Russia’s invasion, with crime and civil unrest also noted as risk factors. The country’s forces shot down two Russian fighter jets on Christmas Eve 2023, in a move Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelenskyy said “sets the right mood for the entire year ahead.”

Venezuela: Human rights abuses and lack of health care plague this South American nation, which has been in a political crisis since 2014. In 2019, diplomatic personnel were withdrawn from the U.S. Embassy in Caracas. Threats in the country include crime, civil unrest, kidnapping, wrongful detention and poor health infrastructure.

Yemen: Six of the nine risk factors defined by the State Department – terrorism, civil unrest, health risks, kidnapping, armed conflict and landmines – are all present in Yemen. Despite private companies offering tourist visits to the Yemeni island of Socotra, the U.S. government argues those arranging such visits “are putting tourists in danger.” Civil war and cholera are also both present throughout the country. The U.S. Embassy in Sanaa halted operations in 2015. The country has experienced a relative lull in the civil war fighting, but as peace negotiations have gotten traction, flare ups in the fighting have jeopardized progress. Most recently, the U.S. and U.K. have carried out a series of airstrikes in the country, targeting Iran-backed Houthi sites.

Other Countries to Watch

Since Jan. 1, the State Department has updated travel advisories for 17 different countries as well as for the West Bank and Gaza, adding information about specific regions or risk factors, or simply renewing an existing advisory. Travel advisory levels can change based on several factors in a nation, such as increased civil unrest, policies that affect human rights or higher risks of unlawful detention.

The State Department has given about 25 countries an assessment of Level 3, meaning it recommends people “reconsider travel” to those destinations.

On Oct. 14, one week after the deadly Hamas attack on Israel, Israel and the West Bank were both moved from Level 2 to Level 3, while Gaza remains at Level 4. The region’s travel advisory was updated in November to reflect travel restrictions for certain government employees who have not already left the area, and it was updated again on Jan. 3.

Following the outbreak of the Israel-Hamas war in early October, the U.S. State Department raised Lebanon ’s travel advisory level from a Level 3 to a Level 4 level due to “the unpredictable security situation related to rocket, missile, and artillery exchanges” between Israel and Hezbollah or other militant groups. In December, the U.S. Embassy in Beirut returned to normal staffing and presence, and on Jan. 29, the country was moved back to Level 3. Crime, terrorism, armed conflict, civil unrest, kidnapping and unexploded landmines are listed as the country’s primary risk factors. However, the country’s borders with Syria and with Israel, as well as refugee settlements within Lebanon, are specifically noted as Level 4 regions.

China became a Level 3 country in late 2020, with an update in December 2022 citing “the surge in COVID-19 cases, arbitrary enforcement of local laws, and COVID-19-related restrictions” as the reason for the advisory. In June 2023, the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region (SAR) was moved from the Level 3 to the Level 2 list, but travelers are still advised to be cautious in the area due to “arbitrary enforcement of local laws.” Meanwhile, Macau remains at Level 3.

Following an attempted coup in August 2023, Niger was elevated to Level 4 in August and the Department of State ordered all non-emergency U.S. government personnel and family members to leave the U.S. Embassy in Niamey. In early January 2024, the overall risk level for the country was lowered back to Level 3. Despite the new classification, the State Department still asks non-emergency government personnel and eligible family members to depart the country.

In mid-December 2023 there was an explosion at Guinea’s main fuel depot which has since affected access to health care and basic goods and services. The country was subsequently designated a Level 3 nation after having previously been Level 2. Concerns about civil unrest, health, crime and fuel shortages impacting local infrastructure were listed as the primary risk factors contributing to the change.

Several Level 3 countries are among the worst countries for human trafficking, as designated by the State Department’s annual Trafficking in Persons Report . Level 3 countries on this list include Papua New Guinea, Guinea Bissau, China and Chad. There are also nine Level 4 countries designated as among the worst for human trafficking: Afghanistan, Belarus, Iran, Myanmar, North Korea, Russia, Syria, South Sudan and Venezuela.

Over 70 countries are currently at Level 2, meaning the State Department recommends travelers “exercise increased caution” when traveling to those destinations.

Botswana became the newest Level 2 country on Feb. 26 after having previously been Level 1, with crime noted as the primary risk factor.

France, which saw nationwide protests throughout 2023, has civil unrest and terrorism noted as risk factors for its Level 2 status, and Sweden’s Level 2 status is associated with risks of terrorism.

The Level 2 travel advisory for the Bahamas was updated in January to reflect water safety concerns. The advisory warns that “activities involving commercial recreational watercraft, including water tours, are not consistently regulated” and notes that government personnel are “not permitted to use independently operated jet-ski rentals on New Providence and Paradise Islands.” It also warns visitors to be mindful of sharks, weather and water conditions. The advisory also says that crime is a primary risk factor with gang-on-gang violence contributing to high homicide rates in some areas. Visitors are asked to “be vigilant” and to not physically resist robbery attempts.

Bangladesh 's Level 2 travel advisory was updated in October 2023 to add a note about the country’s general election , which took place Jan. 7, 2024. The advisory states “demonstrations intended to be peaceful can turn confrontational and escalate into violence.” The U.S. has since claimed the country’s election was not free nor fair.

In November 2023, several Level 2 travel advisories were updated with new cautionary information. The advisory for Ghana was updated to reflect threats against LGBTQI+ travelers specifically, noting “anti-LGBTQI+ rhetoric and violence have increased in recent years.” Meanwhile, the advisory for South Africa was updated in February to note that routes recommended by GPS may be unsafe with higher risk for crime.

Turkmenistan was moved off of the Level 2 list to become the newest addition to the Level 1 list on Jan. 22, meaning normal precautions are recommended but there are no risk factors causing travelers to practice increased caution.

The State Department asks travelers to pay attention to travel advisory levels and alerts , review country information pages for their destinations and read related country security reports before going abroad.

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iraq travel ban

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Warnings and insurance

iraq travel ban

Your travel insurance could be invalidated if you travel against advice from the Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office (FCDO).

Areas where FCDO advises against travel  

FCDO advises against all travel to Iraq except to the Kurdistan Region of Iraq ( KRI ).

FCDO advises against all but essential travel to KRI .

Find out more about why FCDO advises against travel .

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If you choose to travel despite FCDO advice, research your destinations and get appropriate travel insurance . Insurance should cover your itinerary, planned activities and expenses in an emergency.

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Iraq Business News

Covid-19: Iraq Extends Travel Ban

iraq travel ban

Iraq's Higher Committee for Health and National Safety held a meeting on Wednesday under the chairmanship of Prime Minister Mustafa Al-Kadhimi.

The Committee reviewed the latest Covid-19 related developments and decided to:

  • Update the travel ban to include travel to and from Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brazil, Denmark, Finland, France, Georgia, Germany, Greece, India, Ireland, Japan, Luxembourg, Slovakia, South Africa, Spain, the UK, the United States and Zambia.
  • Prohibit the entry into Iraq of passengers from these countries, except for Iraqi nationals who will be subject to a 14-day mandatory quarantine and a PCR test
  • Diplomats, official government delegations, international organizations, and experts working on service projects are exempt from the entry ban, provided they present a PCR test undertaken with 72 hours before their arrival and showing a negative result
  • Apply the principle of reciprocity to foreign airlines in imposing fees in relation to passenger PCR examinations
  • Public and private schools will continue to be allowed to open one day a week but must strictly apply preventive health measures
  • Direct all ministries and government departments to ensure that staff comply with preventative health measures, including the wearing of face masks. Members of the public not wearing face masks will not be allowed into government buildings
  • Shops, restaurants, malls, clubs, cafes, sport centres and event halls will face a fine not exceeding 5 million Iraqi dinars or a closure of no more than 90 days for violations of preventative health measures

(Source: Govt of Iraq)

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Fact sheet on the travel ban.

  • This fact sheet provides basic information on the travel ban and its exemptions.
  • By the adoption of resolution 1390 (2002) , the Security Council imposed a travel ban, reiterated in subsequent resolutions, including resolution 1989 (2011) adopted on 17 June 2011.
  • The provisions of paragraph 1(b) of resolution 1989 (2011) mandate States to "prevent the entry into or the transit through their territories of Al-Qaida, and other individuals, groups, undertakings and entities associated with them, as referred to in the list created pursuant to resolutions 1267 (1999) and 1333 (2000) " (the "Al-Qaida Sanctions List"), which is updated and maintained by the Al-Qaida Sanctions Committee.
  • The travel ban applies to all the individuals on the Al-Qaida Sanctions List wherever they may be located. The responsibility to implement the travel ban lies with the States of entry and/or transit.
  • "provided that nothing in this paragraph shall oblige any State to deny entry into or require the departure from its territories of its own nationals";
  • "and this paragraph shall not apply where entry or transit is necessary for the fulfillment of a judicial process";
  • "or the Committee determines on a case by case basis only that entry or transit is justified".
  • Under the third type of exemption [“the Committee determines on a case by case basis only that entry or transit is justified”], it is possible to apply for an exemption from the travel ban for necessary travel needs, including medical treatment abroad and the performance of religious obligations. Each request for exemption must be submitted in writing, by the relevant State(s) or in exceptional cases by a United Nations office or agency, on behalf of a listed individual to the Committee’s Chairman, through the Committee’s Secretariat (e-mail: [email protected] ; or fax: +1 212 963 1300). Section 12 of the Committee’s Guidelines sets out the procedures for applications for exemptions from the travel ban measure.
  • Unless the Committee otherwise decides, all requests for exemptions and extensions thereto which have been approved by the Committee in accordance with procedures set out in section 12 of the Committee’s Guidelines shall be posted in the “Exemptions” section of the Committee’s website until expiry of the exemption.
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A Syrian refugee girl stays warm in blankets inside a tent in Greece

What is the travel ban? What does it mean for refugees?

The United States has historically welcomed refugees fleeing war and persecution, and given them a chance to rebuild their lives in safety. The Trump Administration’s executive orders on refugee travel, however, have hindered these efforts.

Breaking, Jan 31, 2020: The International Rescue Committee (IRC) responds today to reports of the Trump Administration’s policy decision to expand the Travel Ban . 

While the Trump travel ban officially expired on Oct. 24, it isn’t over . Arbitrary new vetting measures effectively extend the ban for 90 days for refugees from 11 countries. These procedures will lengthen the resettlement process for thousands of people escaping violence and conflict.

President Trump first instated the travel ban on Jan. 27—his first week in office. This executive order suspended the entire refugee resettlement program for 120 days and barred refugees fleeing the war in Syria from entry to the U.S. indefinitely. It also barred entry to refugees from six other countries— Iraq , Iran, Sudan, Libya , Somalia and Yemen —for 90 days. The order resulted in chaos at airports across the country as refugees who were already in the air were detained and, in some cases, sent back to the crises they had fled.

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After the travel ban was hit by a barrage of legal opposition and challenged in federal courts, President Trump issued a revised order on Mar. 6. This new order excluded restrictions on travelers who hold green cards in the U.S. It also removed Iraq from the list of countries affected by the ban, and it removed the indefinite ban on Syrian refugees.

A Pakistani family is to arrive in the US next week as refugees with an IRC tie. Will they be allowed to stay? https://t.co/3Beqsc3eUp pic.twitter.com/Vfm60suJbO — IRC Intl Rescue Comm (@theIRC) June 29, 2017

This second travel ban was also challenged in federal courts. On Jun. 26, however, the Supreme Court put a partial stay on the rulings against the travel ban, effectively reinstating the order and immediately impacting already vetted refugees scheduled to come to the United States.

The Trump Administration followed this decision with new guidelines on the travel ban , stipulating that people who have a "credible claim of bona fide relationship" with an entity or person living in the U.S. can enter the country. These arbitrary guidelines raise more questions than answers. For example, travelers with a child or parent will be allowed entry; those with a grandchild or grandparent will not.

This limited travel ban went into effect on July 13 , leaving thousands of vulnerable refugees who were not already on flights to the United States stranded. It was challenged the same day by a federal judge in Hawaii who ordered the Trump administration to expand the number of people who are exempt from the travel ban to include grandparents and other relatives, as well as refugees without family ties to the U.S. 

Courts narrowed the scope even further on Sept. 7, ruling that there is a bona fide relationship between a resettlement agency and a refugee. But on Sep 12, the Supreme Court temporarily allowed the Trump administration to stop refugees from entering the U.S. ahead of plans to hear arguments on the lawfulness of the travel ban on Oct. 10. These hearings were later cancelled as the Oct. 24 expiration date for the 120-day travel ban period approached, rendering the case moot.

Azzam and Nisreen Tlas and their children play in the surf on a California beach

The ban came at a time when more people are uprooted by violence than at any time since World War II—leaving innocent lives in danger or adrift.

“Legal uncertainty must not obscure that a ban on refugees is both bad and unnecessary policy,” said David Miliband , President and CEO of the International Rescue Committee (IRC) said in January. “We should look no further than the last six months as proof: the current system works well. It is harder to get to the U.S. as a refugee than through any other route, so this ban remains wholly unnecessary.”

IRC resettlement and policy experts have answered some of the questions you may have about the executive order: 

What is the travel ban?

The travel ban is an executive order signed by President Donald Trump on Jan. 27 and revised on Mar. 6. It suspended the entire refugee resettlement program for 120 days and barred entry to refugees from six countries – Syria, Iran, Sudan, Libya, Somalia and Yemen – for 90 days. Iraq was removed from the list in March.

Is the travel ban over?

No. It expired on Oct 24, but new vetting procedures introduced by the Trump administration continue to thwart the resettlement process for refugees living in dire situations. According to Reuters, these new processes will “determine what additional safeguards, if any, were necessary to ensure that the admission of refugees from these countries of concern does not pose a threat to the security and welfare of the United States.” For example, refugees will need to provide additional information such as addresses, phone numbers and email addresses for themselves and potentially their family members

Why did the White House want to halt refugee resettlement for 120 days?

The Trump administration has an unfounded belief that there is no proper security screening for refugees. It said it needed four months to review  existing security procedures .

But aren’t refugees already extremely vetted?

Yes. Refugees are the most thoroughly vetted group to enter the U.S. The resettlement process can last anywhere from 18-24 months after rigorous vetting by over a dozen federal agencies .  

A reminder of how the U.S. refugee vetting & resettlement process really works: https://t.co/mjMd8XzCo2 #StandWithRefugees #RefugeesWelcome pic.twitter.com/RBASDGxjUg — IRC Intl Rescue Comm (@theIRC) June 28, 2017

Refugees undergo biographic and biometric checks, medical screenings, forensic document testing, and in-person interviews. Syrian refugees must go through an additional layer of screening.

Who is exempt from the travel ban?

People who have a "credible claim of bona fide relationship" with an entity or person in the U.S. are exempt from the travel ban.

U.S. citizens and legal residents, such as green card holders and visa holders, are also exempt from the travel ban.

Who is considered to have a “bona fide relationship” with a person under the Trump administration’s guidelines? Who is not?

On Sept. 7, a federal appeals court ruled travelers with not only a close family relationship—child, spouse, parent, mother-in-law, father-in-law, son-in-law, daughter-in-law, sibling or half sibling—but also other relatives such as aunts, uncles and cousins will be allowed entry into the U.S. But the Supreme Court reversed this ruling a few days later.

Out of 2,500 people the IRC was scheduled to resettle in 2017, roughly 1,950 do not meet the arbitrary definitions imposed by the administration—either because they do not possess U.S. ties or because they do not meet a near-nuclear family definition.

The banning of grandmothers—of unaccompanied children—from America’s shores is a disgrace.

Resettlement agencies like the IRC partner with the U.S. State Department and the U.S. government, which handpick and vet refugees to be matched with these agencies. This rigorous process can take up to two years.

As the travel ban took effect, the IRC urged the administration to speak about the legal justifications for their interpretation, and to provide additional guidance to resettlement agencies.

In his July 13 ruling, Judge Derrick Watson  of Hawaii not only loosened the travel ban restrictions to exempt grandparents and other relatives but ordered the Trump administration to admit refugees without family ties in the U.S. who had an assurance from a resettlement agency.

"An assurance from a United States refugee resettlement agency, in fact, meets each of the Supreme Court's touchstones: it is formal, it is a documented contract, it is binding, it triggers responsibilities and obligations, including compensation, it is issued specific to an individual refugee only when that refugee has been approved for entry by the Department of Homeland Security, and it is issued in the ordinary course, and historically has been for decades," Watson explained. "Bona fide does not get any more bona fide than that." 

Why has the travel ban been challenged in multiple federal courts?

The travel ban has been challenged in multiple federal courts because it is seen as blatantly unconstitutional and it discriminates against people based on their religion and nationality. It was also hastily issued without any input from government bodies—such as the Department of Homeland Security and the Department of State—that oversee immigrant and refugee travel.  

What did the Supreme Court's decision to hear the travel ban case in the fall—while partly reinstating the ban—mean for refugees?

The implementation of a partial stay by the Supreme Court on rulings against the Trump administration’s travel ban immediately impacts already vetted refugees scheduled to come to the United States.  

This will have a disastrous impact on refugees. The IRC is gravely concerned about the humanitarian consequences, and the policy consequences, of the decision reinstate the administration’s travel ban.

We’ve seen some of the dire impacts of this policy in action: urgent medical conditions blocked, innocent people left in unimaginable circumstances. The ban remains a counterproductive measure: coming to the United States as a refugee is, by far, the most difficult route an individual can take. This is a system strengthened by successive presidential administrations, both republican and democratic. Slamming the door puts innocent lives at risk and does nothing to make us safer.

“The Court’s decision threatens damage to vulnerable people waiting to come to the U.S.,” said IRC president David Miliband.

How many refugees does the U.S. take in each year compared to other countries?

The U.S. is just one of 28 resettlement countries. Out of the nearly 20 million refugees in the world, less than 1 percent are considered for resettlement worldwide. Only a fraction of that 1 percent is invited to resettle in the United States.

How many refugees were to be admitted in 2017?

The lowest number in a decade: Although the U.S. was scheduled to admit up to 110,000 refugees in fiscal year 2017, the Administration slashed that number to 50,000. The fiscal year for resettlement ended in September.

How many refugees will be admitted in 2018?

President Trump set a cap of 45,000 for fiscal year 2018. 

How many people will the travel ban affect?

The Trump Administration policy will exacerbate the suffering of an estimated 60,000 vulnerable refugees who have been security vetted and are awaiting resettlement to the U.S.

Some 65 million people are currently displaced around the world. We are facing the most serious displacement crisis we’ve known since World War II.

For example, after six years of war in Syria, its neighbors can no longer absorb more refugees. The need for resettlement in safe third states is more necessary than ever— so President Trump’s refugee policies will affect the lives of the few given this chance in the U.S.

What will happen to refugees already approved for resettlement who haven't yet arrived?

The impact of cancelling refugees’ journeys to the U.S. is life and death for those with urgent medical conditions. It is acutely dangerous for refugee children who are on their own; it derails the progress of young refugee families who have quit jobs and vacated apartments in the countries where they found temporary asylum, all while pursuing better lives for their children through resettlement.

The temporary halt in the resettlement program may force refugees who already went through the rigorous screening process and who were set to arrive in the U.S. soon to instead wait months and even years to go through fingerprinting, interviews, health screenings, and multiple security checks all over again, all while their lives are in danger.

In addition, the travel ban is harmful to resettlement agencies who have made extensive preparations, financial and otherwise, for refugees who were expected to arrive.  

What does the travel ban mean for refugees already in the U.S.?

Refugees already in the U.S. who have been waiting to be reunited with family members still in danger may never have that opportunity, or their reunion may be delayed for months or years. The  Supreme Court ruling on Jun. 26, however, stipulates that those with a "credible claim of bona fide relationship" with an entity or person living in the U.S. may be admitted. For instance, step-siblings and half-siblings will be admitted, but nieces and nephews will not.

Why did the travel ban name Syrian refugees, specifically?

On the campaign trail and now in the White House, Trump has made unfounded claims that refugees from war-torn Syria are a security threat. He has called them “a Trojan Horse” that would make America vulnerable to terrorism.

In fact, refugees coming to the U.S. are fleeing the same violent extremism that the U.S. and its allies are fighting in the Middle East and elsewhere. Based on recent data, the majority of those selected for resettlement in America are women and children.

Approximately 10,000 of the refugees who arrived in the U.S. in 2016 were from Syria. Syrian refugees must already go through an additional layer of screening on top of the already-rigorous vetting all refugees go through. This "enhanced review" process creates extra review steps with intelligence agencies and Department of Homeland Security officers who have particular expertise and training in conditions in Syria and the Middle East.

These additional reviews must take place before the refugee officer conducts the final in-person interview. This means that not only is there an extra layer of scrutiny—which the government believes is necessary because of the complexity of the conflict in Syria—but the process may also take longer due to this extra step.

This enhanced review makes it even more difficult for those who would do America harm to get through, while making it a more arduous process for all of the innocent refugees.

Are other countries part of the ban?

The original travel ban executive order barred both citizens and refugees from six Muslim-majority countries that have been linked to concerns about terrorism from entry into the United States for 90 days. The countries originally included in the ban were Iraq, Syria, Iran, Sudan, Libya, Somalia and Yemen. Iraq, however, was removed from the list in May 2017.

New guidelines issued in September effectively extend the ban for people from 11 countries, which the Trump administration did not name.    

The president has talked about a “Muslim ban.” Is that in his refugee policies?

This question is central to some of the legal challenges that faced the travel ban.

The original executive order indicated that the U.S. will prioritize religious minorities over all other refugees. Barring refugees from certain countries like Syria and showing a narrow preference for religious minorities is tantamount to a Muslim ban.

What about refugees who have helped the U.S. military?

There are thousands of Iraqis and Afghans whose lives are at risk because of the assistance they offered U.S. troops stationed in their countries. This Special Immigrant Visa (SIV) population makes up one quarter of all the refugees the IRC would be resettling this year.

Among those with SIV status who arrived shortly after the first executive order was signed was an Iraqi interpreter who had worked for the U.S. Army for a decade. He was separated from his wife and children and detained at JFK airport in New York until a federal judge ordered his release on Jan. 28 following the ACLU suit. 

What's wrong with barring refugees from certain countries or religions if it makes us feel safer?

These bans fly in the face of America’s best values of freedom, fairness, and compassion, and they represent an abandonment of America’s role as a humanitarian leader.

By relinquishing its responsibility to some of the world’s most vulnerable people, the U.S. forgoes its moral authority to call upon  Europe as well as poorer countries  to provide shelter.

Will the refugee ban make America safer?

No. According to the Cato Institute, the chances are one in 3.6 billion that a U.S. citizen will be killed by a refugee; an American is more likely to be killed by lightning than by a terrorist attack executed by a foreigner.

Refugees are already the most vetted group to enter the U.S. and the bans outlined in the executive order will not improve national security.

Chances of being killed by a refugee in the US = 1 in 3.64 BILLION. Lightning is more dangerous. RT to spread the facts. #StandWithRefugees pic.twitter.com/M1rVrjF0D3 — IRC Intl Rescue Comm (@theIRC) June 30, 2017

In fact, barring certain groups from entry because of their religion or country of origin could have the opposite effect: Far from protecting America from extremism, a ban on Syrian and Muslim refugees is a propaganda gift to those who would plot harm to the U.S.

Also, we must remember that support for refugees is not charity; it is a contribution to the global stability on which all countries depend. In fact, evidence shows that refugees are good for the economies that host them .

What comes next?

The IRC is calling on the Trump Administration to learn about who refugees are, and the dismal situations that require this life-saving resettlement program—including the violence that has forced over 600,000 Rohingya refugees out of Myanmar in recent months.

Resettlement is a critical system established in its current form by the Reagan administration, and strengthened by both Democratic and Republican administrations afterward.

“The human toll on families who have patiently waited their turn, done the vetting, given up jobs and prepared to travel is wrong," said IRC president David Miliband in a July 13 statement . "After decades of leading with its gold standard resettlement program, this defective policy shifts the goal posts and sees America turn its back on— and break its promise to— the world’s most vulnerable.”

What can I do to fight the ban?

We need your help to fight back and remind Congress that the Trump Administration’s refugee policies DO NOT represent American values. Take action.  

How else can I help refugees?

Make a donation today to support the International Rescue Committee in our work helping refugee families in the U.S. and around the world to survive and rebuild their lives.

Here are some more ways to help refugees in the U.S. right now.

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Officials: New Trump order drops Iraq from travel ban list

President Donald Trump addresses a joint session of Congress on Capitol Hill in Washington, Tuesday, Feb. 28, 2017.  (Jim Lo Scalzo/Pool Image via AP)

President Donald Trump addresses a joint session of Congress on Capitol Hill in Washington, Tuesday, Feb. 28, 2017. (Jim Lo Scalzo/Pool Image via AP)

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WASHINGTON (AP) — President Donald Trump’s new immigration order will remove Iraq from the list of countries whose citizens face a temporary U.S. travel ban, U.S. officials said Tuesday, citing the latest draft in circulation. Trump is expected to sign the executive order in the coming days.

Four officials told The Associated Press that the decision followed pressure from the Pentagon and State Department, which had urged the White House to reconsider Iraq’s inclusion given its key role in fighting the Islamic State group.

Citizens of six other predominantly Muslim countries — Iran, Libya, Somalia, Sudan, Syria and Yemen — will remain on the travel ban list, said the officials, who spoke on condition of anonymity because they weren’t authorized to discuss the order before it is signed. Those bans are effective for 90 days.

The new order includes other changes as well. The officials said the 12-page document no longer singles out Syrian refugees for an indefinite ban and instead includes them as part of a general, 120-day suspension of new refugee admissions.

The officials also said the order won’t include any explicit exemption for religious minorities in the countries targeted by the travel ban. Critics had accused the administration of adding such language to help Christians get into the United States while excluding Muslims.

The White House did not respond to a request for comment.

Trump signed his original executive order in late January. It sparked immediate confusion, panic and outrage as some travelers were detained in U.S. airports before being sent back overseas and others were barred from boarding flights at foreign airports.

The government initially blocked U.S. green card holders before offering those legal residents special permission to come into the country. It finally decided the order didn’t apply to them.

The State Department provisionally revoked roughly 60,000 valid visas in all, before a federal judge in Washington state blocked the government from carrying out the ban. The 9th U.S. Circuit Court of Appeals upheld that decision.

Under the revised order, officials said, all existing visas will be honored.

In his first address to a joint session of Congress, Trump on Tuesday evening defended his effort.

“We will shortly take new steps to keep our nation safe and to keep out those who would do us harm,” he said.

After Trump signed the original order, Iraqi Prime Minister Haider al-Abadi refuted the ban and said he would consider reciprocal measures. Many Iraqi lawmakers urged the government to ban Americans from Iraq in response, despite the potential effects that might have on the anti-IS fight.

Al-Abadi then met with Defense Secretary Jim Mattis in Baghdad this month and underscored the U.S.-Iraqi partnership. And Mattis walked back comments made by Trump, suggesting that Americans could get another chance to seize Iraqi oil as compensation for its military efforts there.

“We’re not in Iraq to seize anybody’s oil,” Mattis told reporters on that trip. Al-Abadi also met with Vice President Pence in Munich earlier this month, where the two publicly discussed ways of strengthening cooperation.

The Trump administration’s changes to the immigration order follow a report by intelligence analysts at the Homeland Security Department, which found insufficient evidence that citizens of the seven Muslim-majority countries posed a terror threat to the United States. A draft of the analysis was obtained last week by the AP.

Associated Press writer Alicia Caldwell contributed to this report.

iraq travel ban

A guide to traveling in Iraq in 2024

By Joan Torres 66 Comments Last updated on May 8, 2024

Iraq travel guide

Wanna travel to Iraq with Against the Compass?

iraq travel ban

Join a group of like-minded travelers in our next scheduled tour in Iraq, where we’ll visit Baghdad, Babylon, Karbala, Mosul, and more

May 19th to 26th, 2024

This country is truly an adventure, and this guide contains absolutely everything you need to know to travel to Federal Iraq , including visa procedures, how to move around, where to stay, going through checkpoints, budget, money, security tips, and much more.

By the way, this guide refers to traveling independently in Iraq proper, which includes Baghdad, Mosul , the Marshes, and everything in between, but it doesn’t focus on the autonomous region of Kurdistan. For that, read our Kurdistan travel guide ,

Don’t forget to check my Iraq itinerary

travel to Iraq

In this Iraq travel guide, you will find:

Table of Contents

  • Travel insurance
  • Recommended books
  • Independent travel vs organized tour
  • Top experiences
  • Iraqi culture
  • Iraqi cuisine
  • Best time to visit
  • Internet & connectivity
  • Budget & money
  • Moving around
  • Checkpoints
  • Where to stay
  • Solo female travel
  • More information

our recommended travel insurance for Iraq

IATI Insurance is one of the very few that covers travel in Iraq.

Introduction: why visit Iraq?

After decades (literally) of being pretty isolated from the outside world, Iraq finally decided to open its borders to international travelers, making a dream for many come true.

This is the cradle of modern civilization and the heart of Ancient Mesopotamia, home to Babylon, the City of Ur and Nineveh, once the center of the world, and today epic archaeological sites awaiting to be discovered by intrepid adventurers.

The country, however, is much more than just archaeological sites; Iraq is made of its people, kind-hearted Iraqis who will accompany you in your journey, offering you unprecedented doses of Arab hospitality and generosity.

Jaw-dropping shrines, the lively streets of Baghdad, and a surprisingly elaborate local cuisine: there are many reasons to travel to Iraq.

🪪 How to get a tourist visa for Iraq

For your information, you can travel to Iraq since March 2021, when they finally introduced a very long-awaited Visa on Arrival (VOA) regime.

The visa on arrival for Iraq proper is available at:

  • Baghdad International Airport
  • Basra International Airport
  • Jordan-Iraq border
  • Kuwait-Iraq border
  • Iran-Iraq border
  • Saudi-Iraq border

Warning: The Turkey-Iraq border is also open but that border takes you into the region of Kurdistan. You can get a VOA for Kurdistan but remember that the Kurdish visa is not valid for Iraq proper and that you can’t get an Iraqi visa at the Kurdish/Iraq border, but you need to fly into Baghdad.

Which countries can get a visa on arrival (VOA) for Iraq?

All EU passport holders, and also the United States (yes, Americans can travel to Iraq), United Kingdom, Russia, China, Japan, South Korea, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, and Switzerland

Bonus: What happens with the rest of the nationalities?

If you are not one of the lucky countries, you can still travel to Iraq, but you will need approval from the respective Ministry, something which you must arrange through an authorized Iraq tour company.

For this service, they usually charge between $250 and $300, plus you need to join one of their guided tours.

This approval takes up to 4 weeks but once it’s issued, you’ll be able to collect your visa at your desired Iraqi embassy.

How to get an LOI for traveling to Iraq

As mentioned, one must first book a guided tour in Iraq.

By joining one of our expeditions, we can easily get the LOI for you.

Check below our upcoming Iraq departures :

  • May 19th to 26th, 2024. APPLY NOW
  • Sep 30th to Oct 10th, 2024. SOLD OUT
  • Oct 23rd to Nov 3rd, 2024. APPLY NOW
  • Dec 6th to 16th, 2024. ( Spanish ) APPLY NOW

How long is the Iraq VOA valid for?

The visa allows you to travel in Iraq for 60 days.

How much does the Iraq VOA cost?

Today, the Iraqi visa costs 80 USD.

They raised it from 77 USD to 80 USD in November 2023.

How to get your VOA at the airport: procedures

Getting my Iraq travel visa on arrival was surprisingly easy.

Upon my arrival at the airport, all I had to do was fill out a form and pay the respective fee.

They processed my visa in less than 15 minutes.

Up to mid-2023, having a hotel reservation in one of the authorized hotels was also a requirement, but this isn’t the case anymore.

Iraq is becoming more and more tourist-friendly by the day.

Is the Iraq travel visa valid for the Kurdistan region?

Yes, it is.

Once you are in possession of an Iraqi tourist visa, you can travel freely all over the country, from Baghdad to Erbil , including by land.

However, if you enter Iraq via the Kurdistan region, the Kurdistan visa (75 USD, on arrival) is not valid for Federal Iraq.

Therefore, given that the visa for Federal Iraq is only available if flying in, you will have to fly from Erbil to Baghdad.

Iraq travel tip – If you are planning to visit all over Iraq, including the Kurdistan region, it’s better to fly into Baghdad first, so you will only have to purchase one visa.

How to get a visa for Iraq

✍️ How to sign up for a tour in Federal Iraq

Traveling with a group and an expert local guide will make things much easier, and more fun!

Against the Compass has several Iraq expeditions scheduled all year long, and the next one is on:

Also, click here to learn more about our Iraq Tours

Private and bespoke tours for Iraq

Do you wish to join a small group, but you can’t travel on any of the above dates?

No problem, just shoot us an email at [email protected] indicating:

  • How many people you are
  • How many days do you want to spend in Iraq
  • Which dates

And we will try to find other travel buddies you may travel with. Otherwise, know that we can also organize private, tailored trips. 

tours for Iraq

🚑 Travel Insurance for Iraq

For obvious reasons, regular insurance companies don’t cover travel in Iraq.

One of the very few companies which does cover, however, is IATI Insurance , a travel company based in Europe, which I recommend because:

  • It offers different plans for all types of travelers: from families to budget backpackers
  • Covers senior citizens
  • Valid for multi-country trips
  • Readers of this blog can get an exclusive 5% discount .

📚 Useful books for planning your trip to Iraq

Iraq travel guide by bradt.

If you follow my blog, you will see that I always recommend Bradt guides for all destinations, so Iraq will be no different. They have the most insightful guidebook to Iraq.

iraq travel ban

The Rise of the Islamic State by Patrick Cockburn

This is my favorite journalism book ever and it is written by Patrick Cockburn, one of the world’s top experts on the Middle Eastern conflict. In this book, he gives an extremely perceptive introduction to the origins of ISIS, with many references to Iraq, of course. A really useful book to understand the complexity and origin of the conflict.

iraq travel ban

A pictorial guide to Iraq by Sian Pritchard-Jones & Bob Gibbons

My friends and fellow travelers Sian and Bob just published this pictorial guide to Iraq which also contains fresh and actionable advice to the country. 

iraq travel ban

⚠️ Is it safe to travel to Iraq?

Safety is the number one concern for people visiting Iraq.

From the war between Iran and Iraq in 1980 to Saddam’s Hussein regime, the US invasion in 2003 and the more recent ISIS rule, decades of conflict and religious sectarianism made Iraq an actual war-torn country, labeled by all international media as one of the most dangerous destinations in the world.

While it’s true that for decades, Iraq was a pretty dangerous country to travel to, the situation has drastically improved.

This has been recently proved by the visit of Pope Francis in March 2021, thanks to whom – no kidding – Iraq finally opened its borders for tourism.

I traveled around Iraq independently, moving around by public transportation and I was particularly surprised by how calm and peaceful everything seemed to be, especially Mosul and around, an area occupied by ISIS just a few years ago.

Except for the endless checkpoints, everything else seemed pretty normal when traveling in Iraq, with the particularity that Iraqis, in general, were always extremely kind, helpful, and generous, like nowhere else you might have been to.

Nevertheless, remember that religious sectarianism still exists across the country and that occasional bombings may happen from time to time, in Baghdad in July 2021 .

Iraq is mostly safe to travel but even experienced travelers should keep an eye open because we can’t forget that the country is highly unstable.

Always stay up-to-date with the latest security updates but, instead of reading biased newspapers or the Iraq travel advice FCDO , do contact the local people.

For that, Iraq Travelers Café is an invaluable source of information, where you can get in touch with English-speaking Iraqis.

What about the Kurdistan region? Kurdistan is a different story. The region has always been safe, which is why it has been open to international tourism for quite a while now. For a better understanding, read: Is Kurdistan safe?

iraq travel ban

🤔 Iraq independent travel vs organized tour

May 19th to 26th, 2024 – APPLY NOW

For most people, Iraq is perceived as a challenging country to travel to, a destination only aimed at experienced backpackers, the reason why most travelers tend to visit Iraq with a local guide or on an organized tour group.

Traveling in Iraq independently – aka backpacking in Iraq

You would be surprised to know that independent travel in Iraq is completely doable, in fact much easier than in countries like Pakistan or Afghanistan .

There’s plenty of public transportation, most cities have a range of hotels and local Iraqis are super helpful.

The only challenge you may encounter, however, is police and army checkpoints .

Some checkpoints are pretty easy to get through, but some may come with their own challenges, for which is best to have a local contact, which you can easily get from Iraqi Travelers Café . More on checkpoints later.

Nevertheless, some previous experience traveling alone in Arab countries like Palestine or Lebanon is highly recommended.

Iraq travel tips

Traveling in Iraq with a local guide or on a group tour

That’s what most people do, and it’s fine.

Against the Compass (this site) is leading group expeditions into Federal Iraq.

Learn more: Against the Compass EXPEDITION to Federal Iraq .

iraq travel ban

🛖 Top experiences when traveling in Iraq

Remember to read my Iraq itinerary

Explore vibrant Baghdad

With its bustling bazaars and lively districts, Baghdad is a thrilling city with so much going on, the destination within Iraq where you need to spend at least one day.

Visit iraq

Learn about the Islamic State’s legacy

The rule of the Islamic State in the north of Iraq is still latent in people’s life, living history I call it.

Witnessing the city’s reconstruction and the Iraqis’ struggle to return to normality is an unmissable part of their history to experience.

traveling to Iraq

Touring the Mesopotamian Marshes on a boat

The Arab Marshes are a wetland ecosystem in south Iraq, a huge aquatic landscape in the middle of the desert, home to a distinct cultural group named the Marsh Arabs. Going through the Marshes on a traditional boat, visiting the different islands and the local people is a great experience.

Marsh Arab

Witness one of the largest pilgrimages in the world

The city of Karbala, along with Najaf and Samarra, are the holiest cities for Shia Muslims, cities that every year receive millions and millions of pilgrims from all over the world , especially from Iran .

visit Karbala

Discover Iraq’s ancient history

Iraq was the heart of Ancient Mesopotamia, the people who developed the first cities, writing and agriculture, between 10,000 and 3,000 BC.

Discover Iraq’s glorious past by paying a visit to the most relevant archaeological sites.

ancient Babylon

🕌 Iraqi culture, language and religion

Iraqis are proud Arabs, something you are likely to notice throughout your travels in Iraq.

They comprise 75% of the total Iraqi population, the rest being Kurds, Turkmens, Assyrians, Yazidis, Armenians, Mandaeans, Shabaks, and other minority groups.

It’s an ethnically diverse country but these figures might have changed in recent years, especially those of Yazidis, Mandaeans and Turkmens, whose numbers have drastically decreased due to violence unleashed against them.

how to get to Iraq

Getting to know local Iraqis

Before traveling to Iraq, I expected Iraqis to be very generous, similar to their Arab neighbors, but what surprised me the most is that they could be perfectly equal to Pakistanis , Afghans or Iranians – you know, the most hospitable countries in the world – unprecedented hospitality in the Middle East .

Topics aside, making friends in Iraq is particularly easy, and a lot of fun.

Local Iraqis will always be super happy to hang out with you, to show you around, something truly appreciated in a country where chances to meet other travelers are scarce.

They can, however, be over-protective sometimes, and will always want to pay for all your meals and buy you souvenirs. This made me feel awkward but that’s their culture, you are their guest and, although you should always attempt to pay for your own food, just go with their flow.

iraq travel ban

Language spoken in Iraq

Arabic is the common language throughout Iraq, understood by pretty much everybody, except for a large portion of Kurds.

English is relatively commonly spoken among highly educated people but not the rest of Iraqis, especially at checkpoints, so learning some Arabic words can prove very useful.

Religion in Iraq

More than 90% of Iraqis are Muslim, divided into Shia and Sunni Muslims by ≈ 50%, depending on the report.

This extreme division dictates Iraq’s everyday politics and is one of the reasons why religious sectarianism flourishes.

There is a large proportion of Christians too, around 7% according to some reports, mostly living in Baghdad, Mosul, and Erbil.

traveling to Iraq

Close to Mosul, there is a city named Bakhdida, home to 300,000 people, 90% of whom are Christian, the largest Christian city in Iraq and perhaps in the whole Middle East .

Pope Francis visited it in March 2021, where he said Mass in a recently restored Catholic church that had been burnt down by ISIS.

Bakhdida Iraq

🍲 Cuisine in Iraq

Before traveling to Iraq proper, I had spent two weeks in Kurdistan running two expeditions, eating nearly the same thing every single day.

In Iraq proper, where I also traveled for two weeks, I thought I’d be eating the same dishes again, but I was wrong.

While it’s true that shawarma, falafel, and grilled kebabs abound everywhere, being their staple foods, there are many must-try, elaborate dishes defining Iraq’s rich, complex history.

In the north, I found the food to be more sophisticated, more varied, probably because of their proximity to Syria and also because the land is more fertile.

The classic Syrian foul for example, which is like hummus but made of beans, could be found everywhere in Mosul.

In the south, I ate mandi on a few occasions, consisting of rice with meat on top, and the national dish in Yemen , but also in neighboring Saudi Arabia .

Alcohol in Iraq You would be surprised that liquor shops in Iraq abound, especially in Baghdad and Mosul, where you find the largest Christian populations. Drinking in the street is technically not allowed in Federal Iraq, but you can do it in your hotel and in Baghdad there are many Western-style bars. Kurdistan on the other hand, is way more permissive than Federal Iraq, with far more liquor shops.

Anyways, some more must-try dishes when you visit Iraq are:

Kubba – Consisting of a couscous paste filled with meat. It comes in plenty of different sizes and shapes, depending on the region in Iraq. I was always down for kubba 🙂

Iraqi food

Masgouf – An old Mesopotamian dish consisting of a huge fish from either the Tigris or Euphrates, which they grill for hours sometimes.

Iraqi cuisine

Kahi with Geymar – The national breakfast, consisting of a sweet pastry with honey or syrup, covered with a creamy, thick white cream made from buffalo milk. Amazing.

Kahi with Geymar

Gus – Similar to shawarma but eaten with broth and floating pieces of bread. Typical from Mosul.

Best food in Iraq

⛅ When is the best time to visit Iraq

Read: Places to visit in Syria

Best season to travel to Federal Iraq

From mid-October until March, when the temperature is pleasant.

You should know, however, that in winter, especially from December until January, the northern part (Mosul and surroundings) can get pretty cold (0ºC).

The south is warmer but it can also get chilly at night so, if you are traveling in Iraq during winter time, do bring some warm clothes.

Worst season to travel to Federal Iraq

Summer, late spring, early autumn.

During the warmer months, all Iraq can be too hot for traveling so, unless you can stand extreme heat (40 to 50ºC), I don’t recommend visiting Iraq at that time of the year.

What about Kurdistan? Kurdistan is a mountainous region, with extremely cold winters and extremely hot summers. In December-January, most of the region is covered by snow but in spring, the whole region is covered in lush green and colorful meadows, making it a visually appealing season to travel to. Autumn is a great season too, with pleasant temperatures and beautiful fall colors. Remember to check my Kurdistan itinerary

how to travel to Iraq

🛫 How to get to Iraq

How to travel to iraq by air.

The International Airport of Baghdad has connections with pretty much any city in the Middle East, especially Dubai , Doha, Beirut , Amman and Riyadh .

If you are coming from Europe, Istanbul is a common stopover, Pegasus having the cheapest fares.

Erbil , the capital of Kurdistan, has an international airport too, with similar connections to Baghdad. Remember, however, that it’s recommended to fly into Baghdad first because the Iraqi visa can be used for Kurdistan too, while the Kurdish visa is only valid for Kurdistan.

Getting from Baghdad International Airport to the city center At the arrival terminal, there are branded official taxis that can take you to the city for 40,000IQD. To make it cheaper, you can take the bus (9,000IQD) that takes you out of the airport security zone. From there, you can take a taxi for 12,000-15,000IQD

How to travel to Iraq by land

Now that you can finally get a visa for Iraq at most landborders, things have improved a lot when it comes to overlanding into Iraq.

Traveling from Turkey to Iraq

You can easily cross into the Iraqi Kurdistan region.

There are direct buses from the city of Diyarbakir to Zakho, the first Kurdish town, and a visa is available on arrival.

However, remember that Turkey only connects with the Kurdistan region and that a Kurdistan visa is not valid for traveling in Iraq proper.

Traveling from Iran to Iraq

You can also cross into both Kurdistan, and the rest of Iraq, and the visa is available at both.

You cross the border on foot because direct transportation is not available.

I once crossed from Iran into Kurdistan at Bashmak-Penjwen .

Traveling from Jordan to Iraq

The border is open, and there are direct shared taxis from Amman for around $75.

Traveling from Kuwait to Iraq

The border is open as well, but transportation options might be more scarce.

Travel reports on this border are welcome in the comments section.

Traveling from Saudi Arabia to Iraq

The border is fully open, and you can get a visa on arrival.

Read my Saudi travel guide

Traveling from Syria to Iraq

The border is closed. Read my Syria travel guide

Don’t forget to check also our travel guide to Haiti .

How to get to Iraq

💻 Internet & connectivity in Iraq

Buying a sim card in iraq.

You can buy a SIM Card in a phone shop but not all of them can sell one, you will have to enter and ask.

I recommend Zain. Typically, they have 1-week or 1-month plans, the 1-week plan starting at 10,000IQD, more or less, for 3-5GB.

If you start your journey in Kurdistan, don’t get Korek, a Kurdish operator with limited service in southern Iraq.

Connecting to Wi-Fi in Iraq

Relatively good hotels do have Wi-Fi, and some cafés too, but it’s not very reliable. Do buy a SIM Card to stay connected.

Get a VPN for traveling in Iraq

You should always use a VPN when you travel, especially when you connect to public Wi-Fi networks.

Your connection will be much safer. 

Moreover, you will be able to access content that is typically censored in Iraq. 

I recommend ExpressVPN – Extremely easy to use, fast and cheap. 

If you want to learn more about VPN, check: Why you need a VPN for traveling .

💰 Money and budget: need to know

In Iraq, they use the Iraqi Dinar (IQD) and approximately:

1 USD = 1312.50 IQD

Exchanging money in Iraq

Exchanging money in Iraq is fairly easy.

Exchange offices are plentiful, but one small issue I encountered is that Euros (€) are not accepted everywhere, especially outside of the big cities.

US dollars, however, can be changed all over.

This wasn’t the case in Iraqi Kurdistan, where both USD and € are widely accepted.

Withdrawing money in Iraq

ATMs are accepting both VISA and Mastercard but you need to look for them. It’s better to bring cash with you.

Also remember that except for a few fancy places, you can’t pay by credit card in Iraq, but only cash.

How much does it cost to travel in Iraq independently?

Baghdad was obviously the most expensive city in all Iraq, while Mosul was the cheapest.

Kurdistan lies somewhere in between and the rest of Iraq is pretty affordable. These are the cost of the most typical things:

  • Visa: 80USD
  • All entry sites to archaelogical sites cost 25,000IQD
  • Budget (but comfortable) hotels in Baghdad: from 60,000IQD
  • Budget (but comfortable) hotels in the rest of Iraq: 25,000IQD – 40,000IQD
  • Bottle of beer in a liquor shop: 1,200IQD – 1,1200IQD
  • Local eateries: 5,000IQD to 8,000IQD for a local meal
  • Fancy restaurants: main courses starting at 14,000IQD
  • Taxi rides within cities: 3,000IQD – 7,000IQD
  • Transportation between cities: 5,000IQD – 25,000IQD depending on distance

Average daily backpacking budget for Iraq Starting from $45 – $65 a day

iraq travel ban

🛺 Transportation: how to travel around Iraq

Moving around Iraq by public transportation is fairly easy.

Typically, most towns and cities are connected with either local shared taxis or minibuses .

The local shared taxi is always a bit more expensive than the bus, but it’s way faster and more comfortable. I only took shared taxis and I recommend you do the same.

Shared taxis I took (with prices):

  • Baghdad to Karbala – 10,000IQD (115km)
  • Karbala to Hilla (Babylon) – 2,000IQD (45km)
  • Hilla to Najaf – 7,000IQD (60km)
  • Najaf to Nasiriya – 10,000IQD (250km)
  • Nasiriya to Chibayish (Marshes) – 5,000IQD (90km)
  • Nasiriya to Baghdad – 20,000IQD – 25,000IQD, depending on the seat (345km)
  • Baghdad to Mosul – 20,000IQD – 25,000IQD, depending on the seat (400km)

Iraq Travel tip – garage is the word used for referring to a bus or taxi station. If you wish to go to Nasiriya, just ask for the Nasiriya garage and Iraqis will point you in the right direction,

Hitchhiking in Iraq

I didn’t hitchhike but in Karbala, when asking for the Hilla garage , a random Iraqi told me: I am going in that direction, you can join me . Does that count as hitchhiking?

In any case, hitchhiking in Iraq should be easy.

Taxis to move around Baghdad

If you have a SIM Card, get your Careem App , which is the regional version of Uber.

Taxi rides within Baghdad cost anything between 3,000-7,000IQD.

iraq travel ban

Checkpoints in Iraq

As mentioned, military checkpoints are the one challenge travelers need to face when backpacking in Iraq.

A few things about checkpoints in Iraq:

  • There are checkpoints to enter each and every city, and also on roads.
  • Checkpoints exist for security purposes.
  • The authorities tend to be very friendly, and even ask for photos.
  • Checkpoints can be operated by different armed groups. Most of them are run by the Iraqi police, but they can also be controlled by different local militias, mostly Shia but also Christian militias, like in Bakhdida.
  • Most checkpoints are pretty straightforward, you either get through or they just quickly check your passport.
  • One issue I encountered at many checkpoints was that, since the entry date of my visa was written in English, soldiers weren’t able to understand it. This meant waiting a bit extra, since they had to consult with a superior, but it never turned out to be an issue.

However, there are 2 checkpoints that can take a lot of time.

Based on my own experience, here’s an overview of each one of them:

Nasiriya checkpoint

Update 2024: A local contact/sponsor was required but this isn’t the case anymore

Nasiriya is a big city in southern Iraq and an unavoidable destination for anyone heading to Basra or the Marshes.

Its main peculiarity is that this is home to al-Hoot prison , an American-made high-security prison, today filled with ISIS fighters, and the reason why the Nasiriya checkpoint is a tricky one.

Basically, in order to enter Nasiriya, you are supposed to have a local to sponsor your visit . If you don’t have one, you will eventually make it through but there are reports from travelers who waited there for several hours.

In my case, I did have a friend in Nasiriya.

I gave his phone number to the authorities and after 45 minutes, they let me go. During those 45 minutes, all we did was have friendly chats, mainly about Spanish football. That’s it.

Samarra checkpoint

In 2006, the city of Samarra was affected by a suicide bombing targeting Al-Askari mosque , one of the holiest shrines in the world for Shia Muslims.

Since then, the armed group and Shia militia Sarayat al Salam has taken control of Samarra, establishing checkpoints all over the city, closing all hotels, and making Samarra the worst city to live today in Iraq, according to local Iraqis.

Sarayat al Salam is a paranoid group which is suspicious of everyone, especially foreigners. If you come to Samarra by yourself, without a local Iraqi, chances are that you can be waiting at the checkpoint all day before they let you through.

I visited Samarra with two local Iraqis actually from Samarra and even with them, we had to wait 15-20 minutes at each checkpoint before they let us through.

iraq travel ban

🏨 Where to stay in Iraq: accommodation guide

There are no hostels in Iraq, but you can find all sorts of hotels.

In Baghdad, they can be expensive for what you get but, in the rest of the country, they are pretty affordable.

Here’s a list of all the hotels I stayed during my trip to Iraq:

  • Baghdad – Uruk Hotel – Around 70 USD a night. Very good location, comfortable and great Wi-Fi.
  • Karbala – Al Karama Hotel – 15,000IQD. Very basic, but OK for one night. It was close to the shrine.
  • Najaf – Qaem Hotel – 20,000IQD. Also basic but better than the one in Karbala. Amazing shower and good Wi-Fi.
  • Nasiriya – Hotel Tourist – 50,000IQD. Quite good, and comfortable.
  • Chibayish – I did a homestay, paying around $30 including dinner and breakfast.
  • Mosul – Alsfer Hotel – $15. Surprisingly good for the price.
  • Samarra – You are technically not allowed to stay in Samarra.

💃 Solo female travel in Iraq

According to female travelers I have been talking to, traveling in Iraq as a solo woman isn’t very different than in other Arab countries like Egypt or Jordan .

Occasional verbal harassment does happen, but it’s rare, and most Iraqis will be nothing but extra kind with any foreign women.

What to wear as a solo female traveler in Iraq

In cities like Baghdad, Mosul, or Nasiriya, you will see all sorts of women dressing in all different ways, some of them apparently quite liberal.

However, do always dress modestly in order to avoid unwanted attention, and bring a headscarf with you, since you may need it depending on the area you are visiting.

On the other hand, in Karbala and Najaf – two very holy cities – a full abaya covering your whole body is mandatory.

For more information, read this Iraq travel guide for females .

iraq travel ban

❗ More information for traveling in Iraq

📢 In my Travel Resources Page you can find the list of all the sites and services I use to book hotels, tours, travel insurance and more.

All guides and articles for traveling in Iraq destination

  • A City Guide to Mosul
  • Visiting Syrian Refugee Camp
  • Is Iraq Safe?
  • Solo Female Travel Guide to Iraq
  • Iraq Itinerary
  • Travel Guide to Amedi
  • Erbil Travel Guide
  • Tales of Backpacking in Iraqi Kurdistan
  • Solo Female Travel Guide to Iraqi Kurdistan
  • Iraqi Kurdistan Itinerary
  • Iraqi Kurdistan Travel Guide

Travel guides to other countries in the Middle East

  • Iran Travel Guide
  • Palestine Travel Guide
  • Travel Guide to Oman
  • Travel Guide to Lebanon
  • Syria Travel Guide
  • Travel Guide to Saudi Arabia
  • Yemen Travel Guide

You will also like our Libya travel guide .

You will also be interested in: Where in the Middle East is safe? and The most beautiful places in the Middle East .

I hope you enjoyed this article, which I believe is the best travel guide to Iraq available on the internet. Any questions or concerns, kindly let me know in the comments section.

How to travel to Iraq

66 comments

Hi Joan! Very interesting and inspiring article, thank you for that 🙂 I’m looking to do a several month long trip in the middle east and I was wondering if it’s also possible to enter Iraq by land from Syria?

Hey man! No, no chance. VOA is not available and in any case, you can’t visit that part of Syria bordering Iraq, not possible.

Your posts are always riveting. Can’t wait to hit the road to the Middle East again. I have had nothing but the most amazing hospitality while travelling and studying/working there over the years.

Hi Joan! Truly inspiring and eye-opening article. I have become motivated to venture into Iraq and see it from a completely different lens. How many group tours are you planning on running in Iraq this year (and for the future)? Can you recommend other group tours if yours runs out of space?

Hey Paul! I will run more next fall, around November, definitely!

Hi Joan Another excellent, and useful, guide. It is good to know that other parts of Iraq are now safe to visit. Having been to Kurdistan using information supplied by yourself, it is great to have this new one.

Many thanks

Mike Robinson

Thank you, it’s a pleasure Mike!

These guides are invaluable; thank you so much! How would you recommend visiting the Mesopotamian Marshes? Is it possible to arrange a tour of the marshes from within Federal Iraq?

I just showed up in the city of Chibayish, went to the spot where boats departed from and asked for a boat tour. It’s a touristic area because local Iraqis come here too. That’s the cheapest way of doing it. Otherwise, you can also contact an Iraqi travel agency, but that will come with an extra cost.

Did you also arrange the homestay on the spot or was that through the Iraqi travelers Cafe. Also is there direct transport between Chibayish and Baghdad?

I arranged it on the spot itself No official direct transportation between Chibayish and Baghdad (as far as I know) but you must change in Nasiriya

Can you cross into Iraq from Kuwait (and vice versa)?

I don’t know to be honest, haven’t heard from any report about it

Hello! My name is Ana Peña

I would like to join your Irak your this March.

Can you email me and let me know how to reserve my spot if there is still one left?

Thank you!!!

[email protected] is my email adress:)

Hi Ana, Thanks for reaching out.- I’ll send you an email now.

Hello Jean Did you visit either the arch (Taq-i-Kisr / Arch of Ctesiphon) or Agarquf / Dur-Kurigalzu from Baghdad? I am thinking they would be worth a trip – but fear that they would both be private taxi trips… unless I get my thumb-out and hitch the road! Cheers Andy

I’ve heard that there are buses going from Abdali Amman, Jordan, to Baghdad, Irak. But here it says that there is no way to cross the border from Jordan to Iraq by land. Does someone have a recent experience here?

Cheers, Julia

Your blog posts are great thank you! I was wondering if there is any other way to get a VOA or visa for federal Iraq crossing by land from Iran. I had wanted to cross into Iraq Kurdistan which offers a land based VOA I believe but wasn’t sure how to then get a visa to go into federal Iraq. Does anyone have any insight into this?

I am a more ‘mature’ woman who is desperate to visit the archeological sites mainly north of Baghdad (where I lived for 4 years), i.e. ancient part of Mosul, Khorsabad, Nimrud, Nineveh, Hatra, Ashur (anything else??). I’ve been to Erbil a couple of times and have had private visits to the Citadel and bazaar so I don’t need to repeat. What I do need is a good guide who can explain, no 5-star accommodation, just clean and as much integration as possible. But unfortunately no trekking or hitchhiking, too old! Muchas gracias de antemano.

Hi Suzanne, any guiding-related stuff, kindly write me at [email protected]

Hi Joan, I have – as you have requested – sent you an email at the address above last week. Have you received it yet? Suzanne

Since you have covered the safety part, I’d like to ask about family visit to Iraq from Turkey and obviously via Kurdistan. Have you met ANY other foreign family (non-Arab) while you were in both Kurdistan and Federal Iraq? We are considering the option of crossing Iraq on our way home (UAE). The tricky part is that we are traveling with a 4 y.o. Any insights on foreign travelers with kids in Iraq? Gracias por adelantado

Hi Lora, I do know one family who overlanded from Turkey to Iraq via Kurdistan and had a great time. Irak is nowadays pretty safe, I’d definitely take my kid there, and I don’t think traveling with a kid is any different, safety-wise speaking. On the contrary, if they see you have a kid, you’ll be blessed with more hospitality.

Hi Joan, Thanks so much for a fantastic post. We are travelling in our campervan (covert transit van). We are currently in Turkey, we are waiting on visas for Iran, apparently for Irish people it is now mandatory to have a guide in Iran ? We expect the visas for take another three weeks and are thinking of heading to Iraq for the three weeks, do you know what the situation is like for travelling in a campervan? Also would we need to come back to turkey to drive into Iran or is it possible from Iraq? Is the carnet de passage necessary for Iraq? Thanks a million.

Hi Meabh, are you planning to visit southern Iraq or just Kurdistan part? Kurdistan definitely not a problem, many people drive there. South Iraq shouldn’t be a problem either but do have patience for all checkpoints. No problem overlanding in and out of Iraq, especially in Kurdistan part.

Hi Joan, Really happy to read your story about iraq. I’m Salli from indonesia. I plan to visit iraq also as solo female. Unfortunately, Indonesian citizen can’t enter Iraq with VOA. I need to get VISA for Iraq. So, just wondering if you have specific contact / travel agency in Iraq that can help me on visa invitation in Baghdad.

Hello Salli, at the moment, I can’t help you with that, I am very sorry!

Iraqi travellers group hasn’t approved my request to join the group for 5 days. Are there any other contacts you know of that can help me get a local contact to help me get through the checkpoints?

Hi Joan, I am trying to figure out whether a visit to Iraq would close my door to a future visit to the USA. As I understand this might completely block my visit visa issuance by the USA state. Any insights on this? Any non-US citizen who has been to Iraq and then decided to visit the USA and was denied access?

Thank you in advance

My family (2 adults, 2 young kids) and I are spending the summer in Jordan and are thinking of visiting Iraq for a short trip, maybe a week or less. We’d love to visit Baghdad, Karbala, and Najaf. Do you think this is enough time to visit these places? Are there other places in Iraq you would recommend for a short visit?

Hello AJ, yes, with 1 week it’s more than enough, and you could even add Babylon and Samarra.

Hello Joan ! Wonderful web site. Congratulations !

Now the question 🙂 Are you absolutely sure that I can’t get an Iraqi visa at the Kurdish/Iraq land border, but I need to fly into Baghdad ? Is this info valid for April 2023 ? I checked many different websites and I didn’t find such restrictions… Could you be so kind and share with me the source of this message ?

I plan to go first to Kurdistan and then by land to Iraq so your answer is extremely important for me.

warm regards Pawel

Hi Pawel, there’s no official information about it but you can’t certainly cross and that reason is that it’s not an actual border, so there aren’t immigration authorities who can issue you a visa.

Hi Joan, many thanks for so fast reply. I assumed that the border is more or less official with Iraqi authorities able to issue a visa. So in practice I can enter proper Iraq through Kurdistan, even without visa, but at the first checkpoint I will be stopped and then the consequences can be severe for me… Am I right? Pawel

The problem is that if the Iraqi authorities ever set up a border there, it would mean that they recognize Kurdistan as an independent region or country, that’s the main issue. For them, there can’t be a border because Kurdistan is Iraq.

The solution would be for Iraqi authorities to be present along the Turkish border or at the Erbil airport but they can’t because in that area, immigration is controlled by the Kurds and Kurds give you Kurdish visas.

I don’t know what would happen if you ever sneaked in and traveled around Iraq. I did it a few years ago, just to go to Mosul, but that was before Iraq began issuing visas, so the checkpoints to Mosul didn’t really check that but apparently, now they do. In any case, I did it with a fixer who faked some NGO papers, something I don’t really recommennd.

Yes, clear. As I see I will have to start from Baghdad. The only problem is the price of the tickets which are expensive… Sunny day ! Pawel

Oscar Hotel link doesn’t work. How did you book this?

Maybe they stopped appearing on booking.com

Did you visit the ancient sites of Babylon, Ur & Ctisiphon ? Do we need permits ?

Hey John! no permits needed 🙂

Thanks Joan. Any tips for a good place for a cold Farida in Baghdad ?

Hi John! There are several bars on Sadoun street, around Baghdad Hotel. Those are very local bars, not particularly good places and usually with very loud music, but it’s an experience to try them once. Alternatively, there’s the Hunting Club, it’s a social club where the wealthy local community hangs out, an area with several bars and restaurants but if you aren’t a member, you may need to have an invitation, but I’d still try to go anyways

Hi Joan, as a British Iraqi, I am very happy to see such a great blog (albeit with a few errors!) about my home and I am using it to convince my non-Iraqi husband to visit. I just wanted to mention that Sarayat Alsalam (offshoot of Jaysh Al-Mehdi) were actually an invaluable group who defended and supported Iraq and Iraqis and were a major reason why ISIS were defeated. Many of them lost their lives with little recognition from the so-called government. Anyone spreading hate for them, do so for political reasons as they tend to be supporters of Iranian groups who believe Iraq belongs to the land of Persia.

Hi Sara! Thanks a lot for sharing your feedback on this 🙂 This is however turning into a political discussion that goes beyond my understanding, but something which I’d like what other Iraqi fellows think about.

Hi Joan, Has the visa situation improved since Iraq opened for tourism 2 years ago? Can you get a visa at the Jordanian land-border? Is there still a requirement to book hotels prior to your visit and show the receipt at the border? For how long are you allowed into the country? Thanks in advance, Yuval

Hi Yuval – You can know get a visa in land borders, including Jordan – Hotel receipt isn’t really needed anymore – You’re allowed to stay 30 days

Thanks for the amazing blog – this is so useful. I’d love to understand two things. Firstly how much planning before do you recommend? I’m experienced travelling Latin America, Asia and Europe where you can arrive last minute and talk to other travellers to learn how to enjoy a place. Secondly, as a solo traveller but no backpacker dorms in Iraq – will it be difficult to make friends? I’m trying to understand how lonely/fun it might be.

Hi Joan We have a security question. We planned to travel to Iraq between November 17 and December 9 (Baghdad, Karbala, Najaf, Kufa, Basra, etc., all south of Baghdad). However, after what happened in Gaza, we hesitate. We know the Arab countries well, including the Middle East and Central Asia . We don’t speak Arabic, and the Persian I know isn’t likely to be useful here. As a student, I spent the revolution in Iran, we were caught up in the riots in Pakistan, we have been travelling around the world in very different conditions. Roughly, we have been travelling for over 40 years. What are we afraid of? That some hidden ISIS cells will be reborn, etc.

What is your opinion? And thanks for the suggestion about the hotel in Baghdad. Can you suggest accommodation in Kufa and Basra? Congratulations on your blog – it’s great. Greetings from Krakow (Poland) Elizabeth

Hello Elisabeth, we did cancel ours tours to Syria (since you enter via Lebanon) but our Iraq tours still go on, and we have a group there as we speak, all is normal there!

Are you sure, that these days the Saudi Iraq border is open and you can get there VOA? I’ve heard few different opinions

IATI Insurance doesn’t seem to cover Australian residents?

Hi! Do you know how to get invitation letter for all Iraq?I from Serbia and I need tourist visa before travel.I would like to travel without tourist guide

Try to ask in Iraqi Travelers Cafe FB group. There are some well-connected people who are willing to get the approval without booking a tour but they’ll charge around $400-$500

Hello Joan, I plan to drive myself in a rental car and head to some remote/rural regions in the south and east (and eventually continue on to Mosul and Erbil). I will always ask on site whether my planned route is considered safe (and adjust it if necessary). Do you think this is sufficiently safe or would you advise against driving alone in these areas?

Hi Matthias, I think anywhere in Iraq is nowadays safe.

Hi Joan, Thank you this page has been massively helpful in my research. I am planning a solo backpacking/hitchiking trip to Iraq. Beginning in Baghdad through Basrah and finally ending Kuwait to fly home.

I had a few questions:

I am a British citizen, do you know if the VOA is still applicable to British citizens, as I have heard mixed things.

Will I need a letter of invitation?

Would it be wise to contact the Iraqi embassy?

In terms of security given the current situation in Gaza and West Bank, would it be too dangerous for one to attemps a solo trip through Iraq?

Hey Finnian! VOA is totally available, and no LOI is needed for UK passports when traveling to Iraq. You don’t need to contact the embassy either. We are currently running many group expeditions into Iraq. Actually, we have one group there as we speak, life there is going on as usual! Have a safe trip to Iraq!

Hello! This is such an interesting guide and I’m really interested in visiting Iraq. I am a UK citizen and I live in Riyadh and I’m wondering if you know whether it’s possible to take a Saudi car over the border for a road trip?

Yes, it totally possible, they are really easing things for foreigners!

We travelled to Iraq – Feferal and Kurdistan November 2023.

Travelled with a British Passport.

Even though we were told that the visa was $80 (visa on arrival) we were charged $85. We were independent travellers.

Hi Lina, price of the Iraqi visa is 80 USD. We were there last week (running a tour) and that’s the price. Any additional they charge, they are trying to scam you

great information! thanks

is it a must to have the carne de passage?

for what exactly?

Hi Joan Currently in bagdad coming from kuweit . Could you tell me where I can get the shared taxi to Amman in bagdad . Thanks Ludo

Hi Ludovic, as far as I understand, there isn’t any station but that’s something you must pre-arrange through a local company that provides this service. I don’t have the phone number with me right now but for sure your hotel will

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iraq travel ban

‘Drastic measure’: Govt proposes ban on Iran and Iraqi citizens entering Australia

S ky News Political Editor Andrew Clennell says the government’s proposed ban on citizens from Iran and Iraq entering Australia is a “drastic measure” because it is “effectively shutting the borders” to those countries.

It was reported earlier today that the Albanese government is looking to potentially ban citizens from Iran and Iraq from coming to Australia, except in exceptional circumstances.

“It is the government’s belief the Opposition will have to support this legislation, and they expect it to go through the Senate tomorrow,” Mr Clennell said.

“It is extraordinary legislation – it provides that those who won’t willingly go home when the government wants to remove them will face a mandatory minimum jail sentence of one year, up to five years.

“It also allows the government to declare countries where people can no longer get visas from … if they’re from those countries.

“It’s a drastic measure – I know during COVID, the borders were shut full stop, but what the government is proposing here is effectively shutting the borders to those countries unless those governments change their stance when it comes to removing detainees.”

‘Drastic measure’: Govt proposes ban on Iran and Iraqi citizens entering Australia

Gaza latest: Israel's use of weapons provided by US likely violated international law, report by Biden govt finds

The Biden administration says Israel likely violated international law with US-provided weapons. Earlier, Israel's ambassador to the UN used a paper shredder to shred the UN charter on stage at the UN General Assembly.

Saturday 11 May 2024 04:47, UK

  • Israel-Hamas war

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  • US report says Israel's use of arms likely violated international law
  • Israeli ambassador to United Nations shreds 'copy of UN charter'
  • UN General Assembly backs Palestinian bid for full membership
  • Mark Stone analysis: Who voted with Israel at the UN and why were most Pacific Island nations?
  • Netanyahu says Israelis will fight with 'fingernails' after Biden weapons warning - but Rafah decision unclear
  • Israeli war cabinet 'approves expanded Rafah operation'
  • Alistair Bunkall analysis: Biden's reputation is on the line if Netanyahu defies him
  • Listen to the Daily above and tap here to follow wherever you get your podcasts
  • Live reporting by Lauren Russell and (earlier) Richard Williams

Firefighters are battling a large blaze in Kiryat Shmona, a city in northern Israel, after 35 rockets were fired by Lebanon's Hezbollah, according to The Times of Israel.

The news site cited the Israel Fire and Rescue Services as saying 10 firefighting teams were at the scene.

Video posted on social media appeared to show the fire on what looked like the side of a hill.

No casualties or injuries have been reported. 

A report by the US government has said that Israel's use of US-provided weapons in Gaza likely violated international humanitarian law.

In the findings of a state department report - known as the national security memorandum - the Biden administration said it has found "reasonable" evidence to conclude that its ally had breached international law.

But it added it was unable to link specific US weapons to individual Israeli strikes. 

The report said: "Given Israel's significant reliance on US-made defence articles, it is reasonable to assess that defence articles have been used by Israeli security forces since 7 October in instances inconsistent with its international humanitarian law obligations or with established best practices for mitigating civilian harm."

It added that while Israel has the knowledge, experience and tools to implement the "best practices for mitigating civilian harm in its military operations" evidence from the ground - including high levels of civilian casualties - raise "substantial questions whether the IDF is using them effectively in all cases".

Turning to the issue of aid getting into Gaza, the US government report said it does not currently assess that the Israeli government is prohibiting or restricting the transport or delivery of aid. 

Crucially, the report stops short of saying that Israel has violated the terms under which it is able to use US weapons to carry out its offensive in Gaza.

By Mark Stone , US correspondent 

A huge majority of the world's nations voted with the Palestinians at the United Nations today.

But who were the nine countries that voted against the Palestinian quest for membership, rights and privileges at the UN, and why?

The current Israeli government is firmly against a Palestinian state in every sense.

Different iterations of Israeli governments over the years have oscillated on 'two states', but after the 7 October Hamas attacks the Israeli position cemented - no two states, no Palestinian state.

Broadly, they do not distinguish between the extremism of Hamas and the moderate nature of other Palestinian political factions like the Fatah-run Palestinian Authority in the West Bank. It's the crux of deadlock.

So who else? 

The United States

They stand behind Israel despite significant tension now between President Joe Biden and Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu. 

America is committed to a two-state solution but argues that it begins with a ceasefire and that the formation of a Palestinian state comes much further down the line.

Speaking after the vote, White House spokesman John Kirby said: "We continue to believe in the promise of a two-state solution and an independent state for the Palestinian people. 

"That's something that President Biden remains fully and firmly committed to. We also believe that the best way to do that is through direct negotiations with the parties and not through a vote at the UN of this kind, so that's why we voted no."

As always with geopolitics, relationships are so often symbiotic; they are all about mutual benefit even when, ostensibly, the relationship might seem incongruous.

The eastern-European EU member voted with Israel and against the Palestinians.

Don't assume that hard-right Hungarian Prime Minister Orban's hatred of Hungarian-born Jewish-US billionaire George Soros is a reflection of his views on Israel despite the anti-Soros narrative often being seen as antisemitic.

Antisemitism has haunted the right of politics in Hungary since the Second World War when half a million Jewish Hungarians were murdered. Yet Orban and Netanyahu have a close, longstanding relationship.

Israel and Hungary are aligned by mutual interests. 

Orban admires the way Netanyahu's ethos of building strength out of a small nation-state and the two leaders found mutual interest in standing up to liberal democratic headwinds.

Orban's fallout with the EU has aligned with Netanyahu's assessment that Europe is increasingly anti-Israel.

The Soros-hatred also aligns with Netanyahu in that the conspiracy is that Soros is somehow seeking to 'Islamise' Judeo-Christian Europe with his pro-immigration stance.

Argentina's vote is driven by new populist President Javier Milei who has pledged unwavering support for Netanyahu and has vowed to move Argentina's embassy to Jerusalem. 

Milei has said he plans to convert to Judaism.

Czech Republic

The Czech Republic also voted with Israel in line with a strongly pro-Israel stance underlined repeatedly since 7 October.

There is a strong historical bond between Czech leaders and the Zionist movement which helped cement the Jewish State which strengthened after the fall of Communism in 1989. 

As a new democracy, the Czech Republic bonded with a young democracy in Israel. In recent years, economic ties have flourished.

Pacific Island Nations

The rest, curiously maybe, are all Pacific Island nations: Micronesia, Papua New Guinea, Nauru and Palau.

The reason for their support is simple: straightforward soft power.

The small developing nations all enjoy generous Israeli aid from the government and from Israeli charities. 

The understanding is that, in return, they will always support Israel at international bodies of which they are members.

Israel insists that its motivation is predominantly humanitarian, but officials are up front to that it's also about positioning Israel in a better light.

Israel uses its considerable expertise in many arenas deftly.

At natural disasters, for example, Israeli rescue crews are often among the first on the ground. 

This targeted soft power diplomacy has helped Israel to secure votes, but also abstentions in its favour among many other nations too.

On this vote though, on Palestine, global opinion was overwhelmingly against Israel.

Israel's entry for Eurovision 2024, Eden Golan, has become one of the favourites among bookies to win this year's contest.

The 20-year-old singer climbed to second favourite from ninth after the semi-final, according to Eurovision World, a website that compiles betting odds from 15 of Europe's biggest bookmakers. 

It said Israel is seen as having a 22% chance of winning, behind Croatia's Baby Lasagna who was seen having a 41% chance.

It comes despite more than 10,000 people gathering in the host Swedish city of Malmo to stage a non-violent protest against Israel's participation in Saturday's final.

While the results of the two semi-finals are decided by viewers, in the final, audience votes will make up only half of the result, while juries of five music professionals in each participating country will make up the other half.

Earlier, the Israeli ambassador to the United Nations appeared on stage at a meeting of the UN General Assembly.

Whilst on stage in New York he shredded "a copy of the UN charter" - which was, in reality, three pieces of paper.

His actions came moments before the 193-member world body approved a resolution, giving Palestine new "rights and privileges" within the agency. 

Watch the full moment below. 

A first of its kind report by the US government is expected to conclude that Israel has not violated the terms of its use of US weapons, according to sources cited by the Associated Press. 

The report - known as the national security memorandum - was pushed by President Joe Biden's Democrats in Congress.

When agreed to back in February, defence and state departments were tasked to conduct "an assessment of any credible reports or allegations that such defence articles and, defence services, have been used in a manner not consistent with international law, including international humanitarian law".

They were also obliged to tell Congress if they thought Israel has acted to "arbitrarily to deny, restrict, or otherwise impede, directly or indirectly," delivery of any US-supported humanitarian aid into Gaza for starving civilians there.

It follows the US pausing a shipment of 3,500 bombs heading for Israel over concern they would be used in an offensive on Rafah.

The conclusions of the memorandum are expected to be sharply critical of Israel, but will not state that Israel violated terms of weapons agreements between the two countries. 

A senior Biden administration official said the full report is expected to be released later today, but declined to comment on its conclusions.

Palestinians in Rafah are still preparing to evacuate the eastern parts of the city amid the threat of an Israeli ground offensive. 

The United Nations estimates around 110,000 Palestinians have already fled in search of safety. 

In the latest pictures from the city, a tent camp where people are currently living is seen. 

In one of the images, people appear to have started to make piles of their belongings as they get ready to evacuate. 

South Africa has asked the International Court of Justice (ICJ) to order additional emergency measures against Israel over its attacks on the city of Rafah, the United Nations top court has said. 

It is part of the ongoing case brought by South Africa in January which accuses Israel of acts of genocide against Palestinians . 

The court - which is located in The Hague in the Netherlands - ordered Israel at the beginning of the year to take all measures within its power to prevent genocide.

South Africa wanted the ICJ to implement provisional measures on Israel which would "immediately suspend military operations in and against Gaza" - but the ICJ stopped short of that.

Any decision to impose provisional measures will be "hugely problematic" for the Israeli offensive, which Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu has vowed will continue until all hostages are returned and Hamas is destroyed.

Within the last few hours, the United Nations General Assembly has backed a bid put forward by Palestine for it to become a full agency member.

The vote passed by 143 votes to nine but 25 countries - including the UK - abstained.

In a post on X, the UK at the UN explained why it took the decision to abstain. 

"We are abstaining on this resolution because we believe that the first step towards achieving this goal is resolving the immediate crisis in Gaza," it said.

It said the fastest way to end the conflict is to secure a deal which releases all hostages and allows for a pause in fighting. 

The statement added that the UK remains firmly committed to a two-state solution and recognising a Palestinian state, including in the UN, and should be part of the process to achieving a sustainable ceasefire. 

The US ambassador to the UN Robert Wood gave similar reasons as to why America voted against the bid, saying its vote does not reflect opposition to Palestinian statehood.

"Instead, it is an acknowledgement that statehood will only come from a process that involves direct negotiations between the parties," he said.

What happens next?

For Palestine to become a full UN member, the 15-member UN Security Council will have to vote, and pass, the application.

At the last security council vote in March - which demanded a ceasefire in Gaza during the holy month of Ramadan - the US abstained.

The 14 other council members - including Russia, China and the UK - voted in favour.

For now, it remains unclear if or when the security council will vote on Palestine's membership bid.

Hamas has said it will hold talks with leaders of what it called "Palestinian resistance factions" to reconsider its negotiation strategy. 

It said the discussions need to be held due to Benjamin Netanyahu's behaviour, Israeli attacks on places in Rafah and the occupation of the city's border crossing with Egypt.

"Netanyahu and his government are using the negotiations as a cover to attack Rafah and occupy the crossing, and continue the war of extermination against our people, and they bear full responsibility for obstructing reaching an agreement," the statement said. 

Earlier this week, Hamas said they expressed agreement over a ceasefire deal following a phone call with Qatar's prime minister and Egypt's intelligence minister.

Israel later put an end to this, saying it would not accept the deal in its current form, a decision Hamas said today had brought things "back to square one". 

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iraq travel ban

COMMENTS

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