travel to western sahara

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• Passports, travel and living abroad
• Travel abroad
• Foreign travel advice

Western Sahara

The Foreign, Commonwealth and Development Office advises against all travel to:

• areas of Western Sahara within 30km north/west of the Berm
• areas of Western Sahara south/east of the Berm

Before you travel, check the ‘Entry requirements’ section for Western Sahara’s current entry restrictions and requirements. Due to COVID-19, these may change with little warning. Monitor this advice for the latest updates and stay in contact with your travel provider.

If you plan to pass through another country to return to the UK, check the travel advice for the country you’re transiting.

It is more important than ever to get travel insurance and check it provides appropriate cover. See the FCDO ’s guidance on foreign travel insurance .

There is no British diplomatic presence in Western Sahara and consular support is severely limited. If you need consular assistance you should contact the British Embassy in Rabat, Morocco . If you’re abroad and you need emergency help from the UK government, contact the nearest British embassy, consulate or high commission .

If your return journey to the UK transits another country, you should check whether it is subject to a travel ban or any other additional requirements. If so, contact your travel provider.

Western Sahara is a disputed territory and the UK regards its status as undetermined. See Political situation

Terrorists are likely to try to carry out attacks in Western Sahara. You should be vigilant at all times. See Terrorism

The level of road safety is poor. There is a high risk of unexploded mines in remote areas. See Road travel

Take out comprehensive travel and medical insurance before you travel.

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Western Sahara Travel Restrictions

Traveler's COVID-19 vaccination status

Traveling from the United States to Western Sahara

Closed for vaccinated visitors

COVID-19 testing

Not required

Not required for vaccinated visitors

Restaurants

Required in public spaces.

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Can I travel to Western Sahara from the United States?

Most visitors from the United States, regardless of vaccination status, will not be allowed to enter Western Sahara.

Can I travel to Western Sahara if I am vaccinated?

Fully vaccinated visitors from the United States can enter Western Sahara without restrictions.

Can I travel to Western Sahara without being vaccinated?

Unvaccinated visitors from the United States will not be allowed to enter Western Sahara.

Do I need to wear a mask in Western Sahara?

Mask usage in Western Sahara is required in public spaces.

Are the restaurants and bars open in Western Sahara?

Restaurants in Western Sahara are . Bars in Western Sahara are .

Western Sahara Travel Guide

Travel & tourism.

Stretching along the northwestern coast of the African continent, this former Spanish colony remains a disputed territory and is one of the most sparsely populated regions on Earth. Its people look to either the Moroccan government or the Algerian-backed Polisario Front for leadership, or perhaps even the hope of independence in the future. Because of its political past and isolated desert location, Western Sahara doesn’t enjoy the developed tourism infrastructure of some of its neighbors. It can, however, offer unforgettable experiences to adventurers who are drawn to the territory’s life and culture and who are tenacious enough to withstand desert winds and stinging sands: this is the place where the Sahara collides with the waves of the North Atlantic Ocean. Western Sahara is better suited to travelers who feel comfortable forging their own paths, but it truly is one of the world’s most stunning paths to be exp lored; it virtually defines “off the beaten track.”

What to Do in Western Sahara

1. El Aaiún (Laayoune):  Western Sahara’s largest city, with a population of roughly 195,000, was founded by the Spanish in 1928 and has been under Moroccan control since 1976. The city is small and easily navigable by foot. It is a great place to spend a day or two before you venture out to explore other desert towns and villages. El Aaiún sits right on the coast of the territory in the north, and visitors can spend time on the El Aaiún beach, though they shouldn’t expect perfect white sand and palm trees; this is a desert beach, after all.

2. Tarfaya:  This small town lies on the coast just over the border between Western Sahara and Morocco, just a few hours’ drive from El Aaiún. During the colonial period in this part of North Africa, Tarfaya was the administrative capital of Spanish South Morocco. Tarfaya can be hard to reach by public transportation and has only one main paved road. Its real claim to fame is literary: this is where Antoine de Saint-Exupery, author of the much loved French novella The Little Prince, was stationed in 1929. A small statue of an airplane on the beach commemorates the writer and pilot. Also visit the Castle Dar Mar, a 200-year-old castle that sits in the ocean 45 kilometers from the shore.

3. Smara (Semara):  With a population of roughly 45,000, Smara is the only large town in Western Sahara that was not founded by the Spanish. Once a trade hub for camel caravans passing through the Sahara, Smara was built with red stone around a fortress known as the Zawiy Maalainin that enclosed a mosque. Ruins of the fortress can still be seen today. In the early 20th century, Smara was the battleground for territorial disputes between Spanish, French, and Sahrawi rebels and is now under Moroccan rule.

4. Guelta Zemmour:  Located inland and south of El Aaiún, this small town was built around a guelta, or oasis. Sahrawi nomads used the oasis as a camping ground for hundreds of years. The town was at one time under the control of the Polisario Front but is now home to a Moroccan military base. Though this town is a wonderful place to catch a gorgeous desert sunset and a star-spangled night sky, visitors should be very aware of minefields located near the town.

5. Moroccan Berm:  This Moroccan-built sand wall divides Western Sahara into Moroccan and Polisario territories. Several Moroccan military bases are located along the berm, as well as several minefields, so though the wall is worth seeing from a distance, we advise against going in for a closer look.

6. Dakhla:  Once known by the Spanish as Villa Cisneros, this town is home to approximately 68,000 people and sits on the Western Saharan coast, 341.7 miles (550 kilometers) from El Aaiún. The Spanish founded Dakhla in 1884 as the capital of the Rio de Oro province of Spanish Sahara. Whitewashed houses line the idyllic bay overlooking the brilliant blue Atlantic. Points of interest in the town are the Catholic churches and military fortress built by the Spanish. Venture out of the town to see the old Spanish lighthouse that sits alone on a cape a couple of miles from Dakhla. Climb the lighthouse’s 240 steps for sweeping views of the ocean and the town. You can also feast on delectable fresh fish caught daily by local fishermen. This area of Western Sahara’s coast is famous for its surfing opportunities, so if you’re a water enthusiast, this would be an excellent and relatively secluded spot to catch some waves.

Western Sahara is always hot and dry, though temperatures do tend to be higher in Northern Hemisphere “summer” months. Remember, you will be in a desert: nights can be very cold, so prepare accordingly.

Getting In and Around

Visas:  You do not need a separate visa to enter Western Sahara, though you will need a Moroccan visa. At the border between Morocco and Western Sahara, you may have your passport checked, but it will not be stamped. See the visa requirements for Morocco.

Transportation:  It is best to hire your own vehicle and driver if you are planning on traveling around Western Sahara or across borders between Western Sahara and Morocco. Roads in Western Sahara are usually not in very good condition, and many are unpaved.

Buses run regularly between Marrakech and other Moroccan cities to major towns in Western Sahara. There are also ground taxis, which are small minibuses, that take passengers between several of Western Sahara’s largest towns; travel in ground taxis is far from comfortable, though. If you’re flying into Western Sahara, the easie st way is via Morocco. Fly Royal Air Maroc into El Aaiún or Dakhla from Casablanca or Agadir.

Mobile Phones:  Few land lines and even fewer mobile phones are available in Western Sahara. It is unlikely that mobile phones with international plans will work here, especially in areas farther from the border with Morocco.

Safety and Security

Concerned about your safety as you plan travel to Western Sahara? We at Africa.com, together with our friends, family and colleagues, travel extensively throughout the continent. Here are the resources we consult when thinking of our safety in Western Sahara:

•  UK Government Western Sahara Travel Advice Guidance

Africa.com comment: Very timely and frequently updated. Perspective assumes that you ARE going to travel to Western Sahara, and seeks to give you good guidance so that you understand the risks and are well informed.

•  U.S. State Department Travel Advisory on Western Sahara

Africa.com comment: Can sometimes be considered as overly conservative and discourage travel altogether to destinations that many reasonable people find acceptably secure. On the other hand, they have the resources of the CIA to inform them, so they know things that the rest of us don’t know. See what they have to say about Western Sahara.

Local Advice

1. Western Sahara is located on the northwestern coast of Africa, between Mauritania and Morocco. It is separated into two sides: Moroccan authorities control the west, and the Polisario Front, also known as the Sahrawi Arab Democratic Republic, controls the east.

2. Arabic is the official language of both Morocco and the Sahrawi Arab Republic. The Sahrawi people speak a dialect of Arabic known as Hassānīya.

3. The population of Western Sahara is 260,000. Most of the population is Sahrawi, of mixed Arab and Berber descent. Some Moroccans also settled in the territory in the 1970s.

4. Western Sahara is a predominantly Muslim territory, but because of the nomadic roots of the Sahrawi people, many observe their religion in a more informal manner, visiting mosques less frequently, drinking alcohol, and the like. That said, be as respectful as possible, especially when visiting sacred sites.

5. The currency most widely used in Western Sahara is the Moroccan dirham (MAD), though in some areas the Algerian dinar (DZD) and Mauritanian ouguiya (MRO) are used. We suggest having enough cash of all currencies with you before you cross into Western Sahara.

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Western Sahara

• 1.1 Under Moroccan administration
• 1.2 Under SADR administration
• 1.3 Under Mauritanian temporary administration
• 2 Other destinations
• 3.1 History
• 3.2 Political situation on the Moroccan side
• 3.4 Economy
• 3.5 Climate
• 3.6 Landscapes
• 4.1 By plane
• 4.3 By boat
• 4.5 By bike
• 12.1 Landmines and unexploded ordnance (UXO)
• 13 Stay healthy

Western Sahara is an area on the west coast of North Africa . A former Spanish colony, its governance is disputed between Morocco and the Sahrawi Arab Democratic Republic (SADR). After a UN-brokered ceasefire in 1991 ended a war between the two, Morocco ended up de facto controlling about 80% (and almost the entire coast) of the disputed area, with SADR controlling the region around the Mauritanian and Algerian borders. The Berm is the de facto border between the two administrations, and the areas around it are full of landmines.

Cities [ edit ]

Under Moroccan administration [ edit ]

• Al Mahbass .  

Under SADR administration [ edit ]

Under mauritanian temporary administration [ edit ], other destinations [ edit ].

For those interested in sight-seeing, there are few opportunities to see wildlife or natural formations other than the dunes. The area controlled by the Sahrawi Arab Democratic Republic (SADR)—known as the Free Zone or Liberated Territories—is of interest to those interested in the political conflict.

Understand [ edit ]

While there is a long coastline, much of it is rocky and not fit for beaches or travel. Large-scale fishing and ports are at Ad Dakhla . Much of the territory is arid desert.

The area to the immediate east of the sand wall (also known as "the Berm") was peppered by land mines and should be considered off-limits to any traveler: the territory had one of the highest concentrations of land mines in the world and even where warning signs were posted, most are gone due to the weather. The SADR destroyed its landmines several years ago but some may remain. The Moroccan side of the wall still contains thousands of mines and is extremely dangerous. Furthermore, the SADR-controlled Free Zone has almost no roads, so profound navigation experience and a 4×4 with high ground clearance is required. The gates in the berm, which can be used by UN patrols, are not open to regular travelers.

The political situation has been in a stalemate for decades. Breakdowns in negotiations have led to threats to break the ceasefire, and indeed, there has been some fighting in the 2020s.

SADR has been recognized by only around 46 countries and has control over only a largely uninhabited eastern slice of territory. Explicit support for the Moroccan view is also scarce, with the United States being the first country to recognize Moroccan sovereignty over the region in 2020 (as part of a deal wherein Morocco and Israel would normalize relations in exchange for US recognition of Moroccan claims in the region).

History [ edit ]

Under Spanish rule, as Spanish Sahara, the territory was divided by Spain into two administrative regions: the northern strip, known as Saguia el-Hamra, and the southern two-thirds, named Río de Oro.

Morocco occupied and annexed the northern two-thirds of Spanish Sahara in 1976, while the rest was annexed by Mauritania; the Polisario declared the Sahrawi Arab Democratic Republic (SADR). When Mauritania withdrew in 1979, Morocco annexed the southern portion of the territory. A guerrilla war with the Polisario Front liberation movement contesting Rabat 's sovereignty ended in a 1991 cease-fire. A referendum on final status has been repeatedly postponed; a sticking point regarding any potential referendum is who would get to vote. In 2020, the United States agreed to formally back Morocco's claims to the region in return for Morocco normalizing relations with Israel .

Political situation on the Moroccan side [ edit ]

There has been unrest and protests in the Morocco-controlled area, met harshly by police. Where popular sympathies lie is unclear.

The Moroccan name for Western Sahara is "Southern Provinces"; calling it "Western Sahara" can bring your political position into question, and people who don't share the Moroccan government's position can be deported and banned from re-entering Western Sahara. The safest and most hassle-free way of traveling in this area is to ignore politics completely.

Unlike in other parts of Morocco, checkpoints on the road are to be taken very seriously: always come to a full stop unless explicitly motioned to move on. Travel plans communicated at the last checkpoint should not be changed spontaneously: travelers are sometimes tracked pretty well, and if you show up in a different place than the one on your itinerary, questions may be asked.

Moroccan officials are very wary of journalists and humanitarian aid workers, due to a perceived interference with what they consider purely Moroccan matters. It is strongly advised that you not mention a profession even remotely related to those. This is also true for the immigration forms filled out when entering Morocco — officials at every checkpoint can retrieve that data via phone and sometimes do.

People [ edit ]

Western Sahara's inhabitants, known as Sahrawis , are of Arab and Berber ethnicity and speak the Hassānīya dialect of Arabic. They are hospitable and known for their elaborate tea ceremonies.

Economy [ edit ]

Western Sahara depends on pastoral nomadism, fishing, and phosphate mining as the principal sources of income for the population. The territory lacks sufficient rainfall for sustainable agricultural production, and most of the food for the urban population must be imported. Virtually all trade and other economic activities are controlled by the Moroccan government. Moroccan energy interests in 2001 signed contracts to explore for oil off the coast of Western Sahara, a move that has angered Polisario and international observers. Incomes and standards of living in Western Sahara are substantially below the Moroccan level. Basic food items and gas are subsidized by the Moroccan government.

Climate [ edit ]

Western Sahara is a hot, dry desert; consequently, rain is rare, but flash floods occasionally occur. Cold offshore air currents produce fog and heavy dew. There is very little water in the ground. This coupled with a lack of water vapor in the air, which in other regions acts as a greenhouse gas, allows daytime heat to be lost very rapidly into space via infrared radiation. The result is harsh cold nights, despite the very high daytime temperatures. In comparison with the Central Sahara, though, the Western Sahara has more moisture in the air, and a lower annual temperature range due to proximity to the Atlantic Ocean. Along most of the coastline, thick fog can form in the early morning hours and greatly reduce visibility until noon.

Landscapes [ edit ]

Mostly low, flat desert, with large areas of rocky or sandy surfaces rising to small mountains in south and northeast. Low-lying sand dunes cover the territory.

If you are traveling overland, you will find no border formalities between Morocco and Western Sahara. Your passport may be asked for at the many checkpoints on the road south, but will not be stamped, as the Moroccan authorities regard the Western Sahara as part of Morocco.

Get in [ edit ]

The vast majority of Western Sahara is administered by Morocco , which considers it an integral part of its territory, so the same entry conditions apply as for the rest of Morocco. However, independent travel in the region is restricted. While crossing through Western Sahara while traveling overland between Morocco and Mauritania is usually OK, some travelers have been turned back when trying to enter, especially during periods of political strife. At any time, travelers can be turned back if they are suspected to have any interest in the political or humanitarian situation: any hint at journalistic activities or anything even remotely connected (like working as cameraperson for even an advertisement agency) should be avoided.

Official entry requirements for SADR-controlled areas are unclear, but in practice, the area is entirely off-limits to visitors: you cannot legally cross the heavily guarded and mined berm from the Moroccan-controlled side, and the land border with Algeria , which used to be the entry route, is closed. There are no legal border crossings from Mauritania into SADR-controlled territory, either.

By plane [ edit ]

• From Spain , the Canary Islands and various cities in Morocco : Laayoune , Hassan I Airport ( EUN  IATA )
• From Agadir , Casablanca and seasonally from the Canary Islands : Dakhla Airport ( VIL  IATA )
• Τhe Moroccan National Tourism Office (ONMT) decided to open the Dakhla-Paris route with Royal Air Maroc, as of early 2021.

Even for domestic flights, passport controls are stricter than in the rest of Morocco.

By bus [ edit ]

Buses connect all larger cities and will drop passengers anywhere along the road when asked.

By boat [ edit ]

While there has been discussion or restoring the ferry to Tarfaya from the Canary Islands , as of June 2019, it seemed unlikely.

By car [ edit ]

See also the #Get around section below.

• From the north , along the coast: From Agadir one can just drive down the RN1 through Tiznit , Guelmim , Tan-Tan , passing Tarfaya 30 km (19 mi) east, through Akhfenir , Laayoune , Boujdour , Dakhla all the way to Mauritania .
• From the north , through the desert: The road from Assa via Zag to Al-Mahbes apparently has been closed for years, but was open between Assa and Zag as of early 2014. Continuing onwards to Al-Mahbes was denied by local authorities with reference to the frequent military operations, landmines and general security concerns. Al-Mahbes is relatively close to Tindouf, the Polisario's headquarter and the refugee camps, which possibly renders the region sensitive in the view of the Moroccan military. Moreover, this region is rumored to be possibly part of the operational area of Al-Qaeda in Magreb.

• From the south : Entering Western-Sahara from the south (Mauritania) involves passing through a few kilometers of no-man's land, which is notorious for its landmines, bandits, and false guides offering to guide you through the strip. Only attempt this passage in full daylight and with either a reliable guide, or much more practical, in a convoy; just talk to some truck drivers at the border. Do not be misled by the old tarmac road which you will cross: this is the so-called "Spanish Road", which dates back to the era of Spanish Sahara (before 1975) and in both directions only leads to impassable sand dunes and minefields. Only a few meters of this road are still in use today, which are close to the Mauritanian Border Post. Do not venture on this road any further than this. Deadly incidents have continued to occur as result of falsely interpreting the Spanish Road as the right track.

By bike [ edit ]

There is a bike route by the coast, from Guelmin in Morocco via Western Sahara and Mauritania to Saint Louis in Senegal. See Cycling the Western Sahara .

Get around [ edit ]

Traveling by car is probably one of the most convenient means of transport in Western Sahara, as public transport restricts one to larger settlements. Though there are some precautions one should take:

• Always refuel before any longer stretch on the road. That larger town on your map might turn out to be a small village without a gas station. Especially south of Tan-Tan , settlements are few and far between.
• The road's condition changes from "awesome" to "abysmal", often without warning and sometimes every few kilometers. Don't follow the guy who overtakes you with 150 km/h (93 mph)—you might meet him later anyway, with a broken axle, a good 100 m off the road. Don't even trust your own experience on a road—a single night of rain can turn a great road into a terrible one.
• When going off-road, either know that the area is free of mines or have a reliable guide. Follow existing tracks where possible.
• Take a mobile with you, it will work in almost all areas and it will make life easier when the car breaks down.
• And the usual desert tips: bring more than enough water, something to keep you warm at night in case you have to sleep in your car.
• There are several police checkpoints along the road. Additionally to the typical controls at the entrance and exit of main villages (Laâyoune, Cape Bojador and Dakhla), there are checkpoints on the bridge over the Oued Drâa (N28º 31.862’ W10º 56.669’) just before Tan-Tan, 2km before Sidi Akhfenir (on the first cheapfuel station: N28º 05.814’ W12º 02.824’) and on the crossroad to Dakhla (N23º 53.615’ W15º 40.585’). At the crossroad, if you just want to fill out in the nearby fuel station and not want to drive all the way to Dakhla, explain that to the police which will probably let you pass more rapidly. In fact, police checkpoints are usually friendly and things can move very rapidly if you hand out a photocopied paper with the details of the travellers: name, surname, date and place of birth, address, profession, number and validity of the passport, coming from, going to, date of entry in Morocco and the Moroccan police number (a group of letters and numbers stamped usually on the last page of the passport when entering Morocco); and also of the vehicle: brand, model and license plate number. Be aware that radars for estimating speed are on the rise in Morocco, and they are no exception in Western Sahara; a typical spot for speed checking is on the southern exit of Laâyoune.

Talk [ edit ]

The native language of the majority is Hassaniya Arabic . It is not mutually intelligible with Standard Arabic , which is not widely spoken.

Moroccan Arabic is also widely spoken, and is the lingua franca on the streets and the workplace because of the many Moroccans residing in the country.

French is spoken by a lot of those who moved in from Morocco proper and to some degree by a lot of locals who sometimes deal with tourists.

Spanish is spoken rarely (mostly by those old enough to have learned it under Spanish occupation), English even rarer.

People are generally very patient with people they don't share a language with and are also used to communicating with their hands and feet. Also, because of a very low literacy level, writing things down does not help communication much.

See [ edit ]

• The Saharan desert.
• Remnants of the Spanish colonial rule in the capital El Aaiún .
• Many beautiful, completely unspoiled beaches that sometimes go on for miles.

Do [ edit ]

Buy [ edit ], money [ edit ].

The official currency of the Moroccan-controlled portion is the Moroccan dirham , sometimes symbolised as " Dh ", " Dhs , " DH ", " درهم , or the plural form of " دراهم " or " Dhm " (ISO code: MAD ). It's divided into 100 santime or centimes (c). There are 5c, 10c, 20c, 50c, 1, 2, 5 and 10 dirham coins, although coins smaller than 20c are rarely seen these days. Banknotes are available in denominations of Dh 20, 50, 100 and 200.

The SADR has also minted its own pesetas (" Pts. ", ISO code: EHP). It has an official exchange rate of €1 for 166.386 Pts. Algerian dinars and Mauritanian ouguiyas circulate alongside the Sahrawi peseta in the Sahrawi refugee camps and the SADR-controlled part of Western Sahara.

Costs [ edit ]

Prices are lower than in Morocco, in part due to Moroccan government's subsidization policy.

Eat [ edit ]

With fishing being the main source of income for the local population, fish is the obvious choice: It is fresh and very cheap.

Drink [ edit ]

Traditional Sahrawi hospitality includes the serving of tea to all guests in one's home. The tea is really strong, even for people used to high caffeine intake.

Stay safe [ edit ]

Hot, dry, dust-and-sand-laden sirocco wind can occur during winter and spring; widespread harmattan haze exists 60% of time, often severely restricting visibility. There are low-level uprisings and political violence which is altogether rare, but can escalate. Occupying powers are likely to evict foreigners in such case.

The N1—and even more so the roads into the heart of the territory—are very remote roads, with facilities and settlements being easily 150–200 km (93–124 mi) away from each other. Take enough fuel (always refuel before going on the next leg, you never know what is going to happen) and enough water (several liters per person). Mobile network connection exists along N1.

Landmines and unexploded ordnance (UXO) [ edit ]

There was war in Western Sahara for over 15 years in the 1970s and 1980s, and as a result, the landmine and UXO situation to this day remains quite unclear, despite efforts of the Moroccan Government to improve the situation. There are landmines not only in the remote parts of the country close to berm, but all the way down main coastal road (N1) to the Mauritanian border. Google Earth clearly shows the efforts to clear minefields all along N1, which continue to this day—despite Moroccan officers tending to tell tourists that this part of the country is safe. Around the settlements (Boujdour, Ad-Dakhla, Golfe de Cintra) the situation seems to be slightly worse, possibly due their strategic significance in the war. The warning signs are sometimes so rusty that they can't be recognised anymore, but usually the combination of two small metal signs is a strong indicator.

Keep eyes open to lines of stones, cairns, staples of old tyres and similar man-made marking—they are usually meaningful! Generally, any place off the tarmac-road of N1 and off-branching tarmac roads must be considered unsafe. Car-wrecks are strong indicators—do not explore these! Strategically significant points (the various small passes, narrow valleys, elevated points, etc.) are more dangerous, but this does not mean that other places are safe. Any man-made fortifications (straight sand-walls, round sand-wall [for artillery] and any other military looking movements of ground) pose particular danger (esp. south of Ad-Dakhla, but also south of Boujdour). It might be that these were mined when being abandoned to prevent them from falling into the other party's hand, or it might be that the surroundings were mined from the beginning to protect against guerrilla attacks, but anyway the mine-cleaning patterns strongly indicate that such places were and possibly continue to be particularly dangerous. Few to no mine-clearing efforts can be observed off the N1 - that possibly means that (e.g. for lack of touristic significance) these areas continue to be mined and efforts were focussed at the immediate surrounding of N1.

The patterns of cleaning mine-fields indicate that in not all cases does the Moroccan Government seem to be aware of the location of minefields, which requires more or less random search pattern. Moreover, on Google Earth it can be seen that where minefields have previously been cleared, new clearing activities have resumed later. This again indicates that even traces of cleared minefields do not guarantee safety. This includes the surroundings of the lagoon of Ad-Dakhla, including the lands north of it.

Stay healthy [ edit ]

No matter whether you travel in a private car or on a bus, always take enough water for at least 24 hours to be prepared if the vehicle breaks down.

Don't touch unknown vegetation—some of the seemingly good looking fruit one can find on the road side are poisonous even when just touched (one looks like miniature water melons, another like small cucumbers).

When climbing some of the rare stone formations, be aware of scorpions. Even though extremely rare, sometimes cobras are spotted (usually after a period of a few days with hot winds blowing to the West).

The quality of tap water is variable; ask before drinking it, or just drink bottled water.

Respect [ edit ]

The culture is Islamic but not particularly strict; the form of Islam that developed among the nomad population is non-mosque-based. Political and social displays of Sahrawi nationalism are violently repressed by the Moroccan police and military.

Connect [ edit ]

Teleboutiques and internet cafes are not hard to find in the cities, but connection speed may vary from place to place. Most cafes, restaurants and hotels offer free wifi.

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Western Sahara

After crossing the rocky and forlorn expanses of the hamada (stony desert) south from Tarfaya, the Western Saharan city of Dakhla is an appealingly relaxed destination. A constant feature is the cobalt intensity of the Atlantic Ocean, softened here by palm trees, a pleasant oceanfront esplanade and a shallow island-studded lagoon.

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Western Sahara and beyond

10 Best Things To Do in Western Sahara

• Editorial Staff
• 16 March 2023
• Destination

If you’re looking for a unique and unforgettable adventure, then look no further than a trip to Western Sahara. This untouched and undiscovered part of Africa is home to a wealth of natural wonders, ancient architecture, relaxing beaches and much more. From camel treks through the Sahara Desert to sampling the delicious cuisine on offer, there are plenty of incredible things to do in Western Sahara.

We’ve put together a list of the 10 best things to do in Western Sahara so you can make the most of your trip. Get ready to explore the breathtaking landscapes, experience the unique culture and much more!

Table of Contents

Exploring the Natural Wonders of Western Sahara

Western Sahara is an often overlooked gem in North Africa. With its many natural wonders, it is a place of immense beauty that deserves exploration. From the stunningly beautiful Dakhla Oasis to the incredible sand dunes of Merzouga, the region offers a diverse range of natural attractions. The Atlantic coast is home to the spectacular Cape Blanco, a rock formation renowned for its breathtaking views. For those who prefer to stay on land, the Western Sahara desert is a great spot to explore. With its unique landscape and stunning sunsets, it is sure to be a memorable experience. Whether you are looking to observe wildlife, enjoy the great outdoors, or explore the cultural heritage of the region, Western Sahara offers something for everyone.

Admiring the Ancient Architecture of Western Sahara

Western Sahara is a country located on the northwest coast of Africa, bordering Morocco, Mauritania and Algeria. This region is known for its rich cultural heritage and impressive ancient architecture. Throughout its history, the area has been home to diverse cultures and traditions that have left their mark on the country’s architecture. From the old Spanish fortifications to the intricate stone and mud-brick buildings of the Amazigh, Western Sahara has a unique architectural style that is worth admiring.

The country is also home to some of the oldest mosques in Africa, as well as many ancient tombs and shrines that are still standing today. In recent years, Western Sahara has seen a resurgence of interest in its ancient architecture and its cultural heritage, with many new visitors exploring the sites and learning more about the country’s history.

Relaxing on the Beaches of Western Sahara

Western Sahara is a beautiful and tranquil destination for those seeking a relaxing beach getaway. From the stunning coastline of the Atlantic Ocean to the spectacular desert landscapes of the interior, Western Sahara is home to a variety of stunning beaches, each offering an unforgettable and tranquil experience. Whether you’re looking for a place to relax on the sand, take a dip in the waves, or explore the unique desert terrain, Western Sahara is the ideal destination for a peaceful holiday. With its stunning landscapes, peaceful atmosphere, and easy access to the Sahara desert, Western Sahara is the perfect place for travellers to relax and unwind on a beach getaway.

Taking a Camel Trek Through the Sahara Desert

Western Sahara is a vast desert region located in North Africa, and it is a popular destination for those looking for an adventure. A camel trek through the Sahara Desert is the perfect way to explore this amazing region, offering an unforgettable experience of the desert’s natural beauty. On a camel trek, travellers can enjoy the solitude of the desert and witness the stunning sunsets, as well as explore the endless sand dunes while listening to the calls of desert wildlife. A trek through Western Sahara also gives travellers the opportunity to learn about the culture of the local Berber people and discover the unique and diverse ecology of the region. Taking a camel trek through the Sahara Desert is an unforgettable experience that should not be missed.

Visiting the Berber Markets of Western Sahara

The Berber Markets of Western Sahara are a must-see for any traveller in the region. Located in the towns of Dakhla and Laayoune, the markets offer a unique experience that blends traditional Berber culture with modern-day commerce. Visitors will find a wide variety of items for sale, from traditional clothing and spices to handmade crafts and souvenirs. The markets also provide an excellent opportunity to explore the culture of the Berber people, as many of the vendors are locals who are happy to share stories of their daily lives and experiences. So, for a truly unique and immersive experience, a visit to the Berber Markets of Western Sahara is highly recommended.

Learning the Traditional Music of Western Sahara

Western Sahara has a rich traditional music culture, with a wide variety of styles, instruments and songs. From the traditional rhythms of the Chleuh of the south to the Hassani of the north, each region of Western Sahara has its own unique sound. Traditional instruments used in the music include percussion, string and wind instruments such as the lute, the oud and the rebab. Music is used to celebrate important occasions such as weddings and religious festivals, as well as being a part of everyday life.

Learning the traditional music of Western Sahara is a great way to explore the culture and history of the region. By attending local performances and talking to musicians, you can gain a deeper understanding of the traditional music of the Western Sahara.

Tasting the Delicious Cuisine of Western Sahara

Western Sahara is a country located in Northwest Africa, bordered by Morocco and Mauritania. Its cuisine is heavily influenced by the indigenous Berber and Arabic cultures, as well as the cultures of neighbouring countries. Dishes in Western Sahara feature a variety of ingredients, including lamb, goat, fish, and vegetables. Common spices used in the cuisine include cumin, ginger, saffron, and turmeric.

Commonly served dishes include couscous, tagines, and pastilla, a savoury pastry filled with chicken or beef. Desserts often feature dates and honey, such as the traditional baklava. For those looking to experience the flavours of Western Sahara, there are a variety of restaurants, cafes, and street vendors offering traditional dishes. No matter the occasion, tasting the delicious cuisine of Western Sahara is sure to please.

Experiencing the Unique Culture of Western Sahara

Western Sahara is a unique and captivating region of the world. It is the only partially recognized state in Africa not officially recognized by the United Nations. Its culture is a combination of African, Arab, and Berber influences, resulting in a unique tapestry of beliefs and traditions. The region is home to a wide range of activities and attractions, such as camel treks through the desert, exploring oases, and trying local cuisine. Visiting Western Sahara will provide an opportunity to immerse oneself in a culture unlike any other, and experience a fascinating and diverse culture that often goes unnoticed or overlooked.

Taking in the Spectacular Views at Dakhla Lagoon

Located in Western Sahara, Dakhla Lagoon is a stunning natural attraction that offers visitors breathtaking views. With crystal clear waters and a seemingly endless horizon, the Lagoon is a perfect place to take in the beauty of this region. From the top of the sand dunes, visitors can take in the majestic vistas of the lagoon, where colourful birds soar and birdsong fills the air. In the evening, the setting sun casts a golden light across the calm waters, creating a truly mesmerizing experience. Dakhla Lagoon is a must-visit for anyone travelling through Western Sahara, providing an unforgettable experience of its unique and stunning landscape.

Going on a Wildlife Safari in Western Sahara

Western Sahara is home to a variety of unique wildlife that visitors can experience on a thrilling wildlife safari. From the vast Saharan desert to the rocky mountains and lush oases, visitors can explore many different habitats and view an array of animals including exotic birds, gazelles, and the endangered addax antelope. Whether you choose to go on an organized tour or try your hand at self-guided exploration, you can discover the natural beauty and diversity of Western Sahara’s wildlife. With its diverse ecosystems, you are sure to have a memorable experience on your wildlife safari in Western Sahara.

Western Sahara is a unique and diverse country that offers a wealth of experiences for travellers. From exploring the natural wonders of Western Sahara to admiring the ancient architecture, relaxing on the beaches, embarking on a camel trek, visiting Berber markets, learning traditional music, tasting the delicious cuisine, and experiencing the unique culture, there is something for everyone. For those seeking an unforgettable adventure, a wildlife safari in Western Sahara is a must, as well as taking in the spectacular views at Dakhla Lagoon. Whether you are looking for a relaxing beach holiday or a cultural adventure, Western Sahara has something for everyone.

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Few travellers venture south of Goulimine unless bound for Mauritania or Senegal. Certainly, the dead-end administrative town of Tan Tan has few attractions, though surfers in particular may want to check out the rather more appetizing beach resort of Tan Tan Plage. The last town in Morocco proper, Tarfaya, is really just a sleepy little fishing village that sometimes gives the impression of having been all but forgotten, but it has a charmingly lazy air about it. Once over the demarcation line into the Western Sahara, things change, and the towns of Laayoune, Boujdour and Dakhla, are bright, modern places by comparison, settled by pioneering Moroccans enticed with state subsidies. Smara is the only really historical site in the territory.

Smara (Es Semara)

Tan tan to laayoune, travelling in the western sahara, western saharan history, simmering tensions in dakhla.

Of more interest to many travellers than the towns of the region is the surrounding landscape, and you are sure spend much of your time here travelling across vast, bleak tracts of hammada (stony desert); there’s certainly no mistaking that you’ve reached the Sahara proper. Returning, if you don’t fancy a repeat of the journey, there are flights from Dakhla and Laayoune to Agadir or the Canary Islands. And once you’ve reached Dakhla, Dakkar and Banjul are actually as close as Marrakesh and Casablanca.

Although the area covered by this chapter was all formerly under Spanish rather than French colonial rule, French has now almost entirely replaced Spanish as the dominant second language throughout the region.

The region’s economic importance was long thought to centre on the phosphate mines at Boukra, southeast of Laayoune. However, these have not been very productive in recent years, and the deposits are not especially rich by the standards of the Plateau des Phosphates east of Casablanca. In the long term, the rich deep-water fishing grounds offshore are likely to prove a much better earner. This potential is gradually being realized with the development of fishing ports at Laayoune, Dakhla and Boujdour, together with industrial plants for fish storage and processing.

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The sea is guarded by cliffs most of the way to the fishing port of BOUJDOUR, 188km southwest of Laayoune. The beach is dirty with dangerous rocks – the nearest beaches suitable for swimming (if you have the transport to reach them) are 20km south, below the cliffs, and 40km north, just beyond a military checkpoint and fishing settlement. The nearest thing to a sight in town is the lighthouse, though it’s not open to the public, and the soldiers guarding it won’t be happy if you try to photograph it. If you need a bank, the BMCE and Banque Populaire both have branches with ATMs.

SMARA (also written as Es Semara), once an important caravan stop, is today a garrison town, occupied by the Moroccan army (so be careful where you point your camera). Otherwise, it’s a small, sleepy old place, with not a lot going on, though there’s a souk every Thursday, and a festival every April featuring musical and other entertainments. Because accommodation options are so dire, it’s wise to avoid spending the night here, by making an early start from Tan Tan or Laayoune to get here, and heading off before transport dries up.

Smara’s only link with its past is the remains of the palace and Great Mosque of Ma el Aïnin, the “Blue Sultan”, a local ruler who tried to oust the French colonialists at the beginning of the twentieth century (see The Blue Sultan). The palace, near the oued, contains the residences of Ma el Aïnin’s four main wives, one of them now occupied by the gardien and his family. The attached zaouia is well maintained, but usually closed, except on Fridays. If you knock on the door, however, someone should open up and show you around, usually for a fee. Though plastered over, the zaouia is, like the rest of the palace, built of black basalt from the local hills. What’s left of the Great Mosque, a separate building further away from the river, is less well preserved, but you can still see the mihrab, and rows of basalt arches.

The approach from Goulimine to Tan Tan runs along 125km of straight desert road, across a bleak area of scrub and hammada. There are few features to speak of en route: a café and petrol station (55km from Goulimine); a small pass (85km); and finally a crossing of the Oued Drâa (109km), invariably dry at this point, where you may be asked to show your passport (as you also may coming into Tan Tan). A piste from here heads west to a last French fort at the mouth of the oued.

Tan Tan is a drab administrative centre of around 70,000 inhabitants. Because it’s part of a duty-free zone, along with the rest of the Tarfaya Strip and Western Sahara, a lot of shops sell goods such as radios, computers and electric razors. Aside from its moussem (see Tan Tan Plage), Tan Tan’s one claim to fame is that it was a departure point for Hassan II’s famous Green March to occupy the Western Sahara (La Marche Verte, or el Massira el Khadra).

Parallels and demarcation lines

In colonial times, the Oued Drâa was the border between the French and Spanish protectorates. The land to the south, the Tarfaya strip, was part of the Spanish Protectorate in Morocco, along with the area around Tetouan and Al Hoceima in the north. It was not considered part of Spain’s two Saharan colonies (together known as the Spanish Sahara), of which the northernmost, Seguiat el Hamra, began at the 27°40´ N line just south of Tarfaya, while the southern one, Rio de Oro, began at the 26th parallel, just south of Boujdour. In 1958, two years after the rest of Morocco gained independence, the Spanish gave back the Tarfaya strip, but they kept the Spanish Sahara until November 1975.

Tan Tan Plage (El Ouatia)

TAN TAN PLAGE (also called El Ouatia), 26km from town, and just off the coastal route to Laayoune, is a fishing port, responsible for a large percentage of Morocco’s sardine exports. It has a shadeless and often windswept beach that gets quite crowded in summer, and is increasingly popular with surfers, though not very good for casual bathing due to its large breakers and strong currents. With a large number of small hotels and restaurants, however, it’s a lot more attractive as a place to stay than Tan Tan itself.

The N1 road from Tan Tan to Laayoune hugs the coast, passing over dramatic oued mouths and through sand dunes as it rolls down through the southernmost slice of Morocco. The only towns of note are Akhfenir and, 3km off the road, Tarfaya. The Western Sahara starts at the village of Tah, where a red granite monument flanking the road commemorates the 1975 Green March. Once south of the border, you begin to traverse real sand desert – the Erg Lakhbayta – before crossing the Seguiat al-Hamra (a wide and usually dry river) to enter Laayoune.

TARFAYA is a quiet little fishing town (population 6000) that’s probably not far different from its years as a staging post for the Aéropostale Service – when aviators such as Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (author of Night Flight and The Little Prince) used to rest up here on their way down to West Africa.

Oddly enough, Tarfaya was actually founded, at the end of the nineteenth century, by a Scottish trader named Donald Mackenzie, and was originally called Port Victoria after Britain’s queen. Mackenzie had a fort built, now known as Casa Mar, which is just offshore – a few metres’ swim at low tide. The Spanish called the town Villa Bens. These days Tarfaya is a lazy, do-nothing place. The main street, Boulevard Ahmed el Hayar, running roughly east–west through the town centre, has two banks (with ATMs), a handful of cafés, and a couple of internet offices (one next to Attijariawafa Bank).

The Aéropostale air service is commemorated annually in October by a “Rallye Aérien”, with small planes stopping here on their way south from Toulouse to Dakar. A monument to Saint-Exupéry in the form of a plane stands at the northern end of the beach. Nearby, a Musée Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (Mon–Fri 8.30am–12.30pm & 2.30–5pm; 10dh) has exhibits on the air mail service that Saint-Exupéry pioneered, but (despite being in the formerly Spanish zone of an Arabic-speaking country) with explanations in French only.

Accommodation and eating in Tarfaya

The hotels all serve meals, and the cafés along the north side of Av Ahmed el Hayar have excellent and very cheap fresh fried fish, or fish tajines.

Getting to Tarfaya

Transport can be tricky getting to and from Tarfaya, you may have to wait a few hours before anything turns up, or you may even have to resort to walking to the junction on the N1 (3km out of town) and hitchhiking, or at least trying to flag down passing buses and shared taxis.

Tourists can travel freely in most Moroccan-controlled parts of what are called the Saharan Provinces (an administrative area created to include the former Spanish Sahara, while not coinciding with its boundaries), but do check first on the political situation. 2010 and 2011 saw violent clashes between Saharawis and Moroccan settlers and police in Laayoune, Smara and Dakhla, among other places, and you should be aware that protests often involve violence, and should be avoided. Government advisories will have up-to-date information if any problems have arisen. Apart from this, the only obstacle would be for visitors who admit to being a writer or journalist: a profession not welcome in the region, unless under the aegis of an official press tour.

Otherwise, visiting Laayoune, Smara, Boujdour and Dakhla is now pretty routine, though it does involve answering a series of questions (name, age, profession, parents’ names, passport number and date of issue etc) at numerous police checkpoints along the way. This is all usually very amicable, but time-consuming (you’ll be asked for these details four times, for example, between Laayoune and Dakhla). To save time it is a good idea to print out and/or photocopy several copies of a sheet with the following information listed, preferably in French (as given here in brackets): family name (nom), given names (prénoms), date of birth (date de naissance), place of birth (lieu de naissance), marital status (situation familiale), father’s name (nom de père), mother’s name (nom de mère), nationality (nationalité), occupation (profession), address (addresse – which should be given in full), passport number (numéro de passeport), date of issue (date de déliverance), place of issue (lieu de déliverance), expiry date (date d’expiration), purpose of visit (motif du voyage – tourisme, for example), make of vehicle (marque du véhicule – you may of course have to leave this one blank), vehicle registration number (matriculation – ditto), date of entry into Morocco (date d’entrée en Maroc), place of entry (ville d’entrée) and police number (numéro de police – this is the number stamped in your passport alongside your first entry stamp into Morocco, typically six digits and two letters). For marital status, you could be single (célibataire), married (marié if male, mariée if female), divorced (divorcé/divorcée) or widowed (veuf/veuve). Armed with this, you can then give your details to police at every checkpoint, which will save them having to ask you for the information point by point.

Petrol and diesel are subsidized in the Saharan provinces (basically the Western Sahara), and cost about a third less than in Morocco proper.

The Saharawi people who live in the Western Sahara are largely descended from Arab tribes who moved into the area in the fifteenth century, and established themselves definitively with victory over the indigenous Sanhaja Berbers in the 1644–74 Char Bouba war. They speak an Arabic dialect called Hassania, which is much the same as that spoken in Mauritania, and somewhat different from the dialect spoken in most of Morocco. Their food and music are also more like those of Mauritania than of Morocco. However, Hassania-speaking Saharawis are not confined to the Western Sahara, and many live in southern Morocco too.

Spanish colonial rule

Spain held part of the Saharan coast in the early sixteenth century, but the Saadians drove them out in 1524, establishing Moroccan control over the coastline. In 1884, while European powers, such as Britain, France and Portugal, were carving up the rest of Africa, Spain got in on the act and declared the coast between Boujdour and the Nouadibhou peninsula to be a Spanish “protectorate”, gradually extending its boundaries inland and northward by agreement with other European powers. The Spanish didn’t actually have much control over the area in practice, but built ports at La Gouera and Villa Cisneros (Dakhla), with occasional forays into the interior to “pacify” the Saharawi tribes. Full colonial rule was only introduced after the Spanish Civil War, when the territory was split into two colonies: Rio de Oro, with its capital at Villa Cisneros, and Seguiat el Hamra, with a new, purpose-built capital at Laayoune.

Following Moroccan independence and the 1958 return of the Tarfaya strip, Spain merged its two colonies to form the Spanish Sahara, which was considered a province of Spain itself, much like Ifni, Ceuta and Melilla. But it was only in the 1960s, after the discovery of phosphates at Boukra, that Spain actually started to develop the territory.

By that time colonialism was out of fashion. Britain and France had pulled out of most of Africa, and only the Fascist-ruled Iberian states of Spain and Portugal still held onto their African colonies, with international pressure mounting on them to quit. In 1966 for example, the UN passed a resolution calling on Spain to organize a referendum on independence in the Sahara. Meanwhile, as education became more widespread, the Spaniards were confronted with the same problem that they and the French had faced in Morocco thirty years earlier – the rise of nationalism. The Movement for the Liberation of the Sahara was formed in 1967, and in 1970 organized a protest in Laayoune against Spanish rule. This was brutally put down, and the Movement was banned, but Spanish repression only succeeded in radicalizing opposition. In 1973, a group of militants formed the Frente para la Liberación de Seguiat el Hamra y Rio de Oro (Polisario), and began a guerrilla campaign for independence.

The Green March, and war

Under pressure from Polisario, and with its dictator General Franco on his last legs, Spain began to consider pulling out of the Sahara, but Morocco’s King Hassan II now claimed sovereignty over the territory on the basis that it had been under Moroccan rule before Spanish colonization. The case went to the International Court of Justice in the Hague, which ruled that, though some Saharawi tribes had indeed paid allegiance to the Moroccan sultan, the territory had not been substantially Moroccan before colonization, and its people were entitled to self-determination. In accordance with this ruling, Spain reluctantly agreed to hold a referendum on independence. Under pressure at home over domestic issues, however (see Elections and coup attempts), Hassan saw advantages in waving the nationalist flag as a distraction, and the next month led a “Green March” (Massira el Khadra) of 350,000 Moroccan civilians (subsequently replaced by soldiers) across the border to claim the territory. At the same time a secret agreement was hatched in Madrid to divide the territory between Morocco and Mauritania as soon as Spanish troops had withdrawn.

The Madrid signatories had, however, underestimated the Saharawis’ determination to fight for their independence. In February 1976, when Spanish forces left, Polisario proclaimed the Saharawi Arab Democratic Republic (SADR), and fought back against Moroccan and Mauritanian occupation, backed by Algeria, and sometimes Libya, who saw the Sahara as a stick with which to beat their regional rival. Thousands of refugees fled into Algeria, where they settled into increasingly unhygienic Polisario-run refugee camps rather than submit to Moroccan or Mauritanian rule. Algeria ceded the territory around the camps to the SADR; 200,000 people still live in them today.

Polisario’s early military successes were impressive, and Mauritania in particular did not have the resources to beat them. In 1978, the war’s destabilization of the Mauritanian economy brought down the government. The new regime made peace with Polisario and pulled out of the Sahara (apart from La Gouera and the western side of the Nouadibhou peninsula, which Mauritania still occupies). The Moroccans moved in to replace them, but by the early 1980s they had been pushed into a small area around Laayoune and Dakhla, and the phosphate mines lay idle. Polisario guerillas even managed to infiltrate into Morocco itself. But the Moroccans fought back and, beginning in 1981, built a series of heavily defended desert walls (berm) that excluded Polisario forces from successively larger areas. The sixth wall, built in 1987, established Moroccan control over two-thirds of the territory, including all its economically important parts and the whole of the coastline. Polisario, now confined to areas behind the berm, particularly the region around Bir Lahlou and Tifariti, increasingly turned to diplomacy to gather support, with some success. In 1985, the OAU (now the African Union) admitted the SADR to full membership; Morocco left the organization in protest.

Ceasefire and future prospects

In 1988 a UN plan for a referendum, to choose between incorporation or independence, was accepted in principle by both sides, and 1991 saw a ceasefire, with the deployment of a UN peacekeeping force called MINURSO, but the years since have seen the UN aims frustrated, with arguments over the voting list leading to repeated postponement of the referendum; Morocco in particular has brought in large numbers of supporters to vote its way should the promised referendum ever be held. In theory, it will still take place, but observers are sceptical. Having invested so much in the territory – not only in military terms, as subsidies, tax concessions and infrastructure building have all been a heavy drain on the Moroccan economy – it seems inconceivable that Morocco will relinquish its claims. In 2002, Morocco’s King Mohammed VI stated that he would never give up any part of the territory, but the king has tried to be conciliatory, granting a royal pardon to hundreds of Saharawi political prisoners, and inviting refugees to come home. In 2007 he proposed a new settlement based on limited autonomy under Moroccan sovereignty, which Polisario inevitably rejected. In 2010, Saharawi residents set up a protest camp at Gdim Izik near Laayoune, at first to protest against discrimination, but with calls for independence soon added; Moroccan police dispersed the camp by force, killing a number of people and sparking riots across the territory. Protests continued into 2011, and in Dakhla, Moroccan settlers and Saharawis came to blows. Meanwhile Morocco has started building little villages along the coast to establish “facts on the ground”, and, as an important strategic ally of the West, is unlikely to face much international pressure on the issue. Truth is, prospects for independence are bleak, and limited autonomy is probably the best the Saharawis can hope for.

Some 544km from Laayoune, on a long spit of land, Dakhla (formerly Villa Cisneros, capital of Spain’s Rio de Oro colony), is just 22km north of the Tropic of Cancer. Under Spanish rule, only the colonists and people working for them were allowed into town – the Saharawi nomads who lived in the desert were excluded. In 1975, the Spanish left and the Mauritanians moved in, to be replaced four years later by the Moroccans. Since then, Dakhla has grown somewhat, but it retains a lazy, sun-bleached atmosphere, with whitewashed, low-rise buildings and an easy-going feel. Europeans in camper vans head down in winter, drawn by the deserted beaches and year-round sunshine – even in January it’s hot, and this is the furthest south you can get by land without needing a visa. Dakhla has also been developing a small surfing scene, with windsurfing and kitesurfing increasingly popular pursuits at the northern end of the lagoon, and there are a couple of surfing supply shops in town.

While Dakhla is generally quiet and peaceful, deep tensions underlie this apparent tranquillity, and occasionally they surface. The Saharawi neighbourhood of Oum Tounsi hit the news in February 2011 when it came under attack by Moroccan settlers during the now-abolished annual Dakhla festival. One factor behind the attacks was the resentment of settlers at the subsidies given to returnees from the Polisario camps in Algeria if they accept Moroccan citizenship, but the continued opposition of Saharawis to the Moroccan occupation remains the most serious issue. Further clashes between settlers and Saharawis erupted after a football match in September 2011, leaving eight dead. The Moroccan news agency Morocco World News, calling Oum Tounsi “a stronghold of smugglers”, blamed “ex-convicts” for the trouble, adding that unnamed foreigners had taken advantage of the violence to carry out “activities of subversion”. For all that, Dakhla is generally peaceful, but the periodic appearance of SADR flags in Saharawi neighbourhoods invariably leads to raids by Moroccan forces, and the tension between settlers and Saharawis does not look like going away any time soon.

With a population of around 200,000, Laayoune (Al Ayoun, sometimes spelt Aaiun in the Spanish colonial period) is the largest and most interesting town in the Western Sahara, though it was only founded in 1940. The city has the highest per capita government spending in Morocco, and soldiers, billeted here for the conflict with Polisario, have been employed in many construction projects. The old lower town, built by the Spanish, lies on the southern slope of the steep-sided valley of the Seguiat el Hamra, with the new upper town, developed since the Green March, on the high plateau beyond.

The population growth – from little more than a village when the Moroccans took over – has been aided by massive subsidies, which apply throughout the Western Sahara, and by an agreement that settlers should initially pay no taxes. The fact that most of Laayoune’s residents are here by choice – only a minority of current residents were actually born here – gives the place a dynamism and pioneering feel that contrasts quite sharply with the weight of tradition that hangs heavy on cities like Fez and Marrakesh. The result is that, although Laayoune has little in the way of obvious sights, its atmosphere is quite a change from that of towns in Morocco proper.

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This guide may contain affiliate links. At no cost to you, they allow me to provide these free and, even if I do say so myself, expert guides based on almost two years of travel in Africa. For a broader view, don’t miss my complete guide to travel in Africa .

Western Sahara lies just south and west of Spain’s Canary Islands on the northwest coast of Africa. It has been one of the world’s trouble spots for half a century. A disputed region, Western Sahara is either an integral part of Morocco to the north, or the world’s largest non-self-governing territory. But what does this mean for travellers? Is Western Sahara safe to visit?

The history of the Western Sahara dispute

As Spanish Sahara, Western Sahara was a Spanish colony until 1975. For much of this time, it was split into two provinces, Saguia El Hamra and Rio de Oro. They were ruled separately to the Cape Juby region of Spanish Morocco.

When Spain withdrew, Western Sahara was immediately occupied by Mauritania from the south and Morocco from the north.

Mauritania pulled back to its colonial-era borders after just a couple of years. This allowed Moroccan forces to occupy the majority of the country, against the will of the Sahwari, the people of Western Sahara. They continue to call for a referendum on self-determination and independence, as does the UN.

The Sahwari are represented by the Polisario Front. It governs roughly 20% of the territory’s total area, largely along the border with Mauritania. A government-in-exile, they govern from Tindouf in Algeria. Thousands of Sahwari continue to live in refugee camps in the same country as they have done for decades. Many were even born in the camps, and have never seen their homeland.

Is it safe to travel through Western Sahara?

The majority of visitors to Western Sahara have very little to worry about. In all likelihood, you’ll be travelling through areas administered by Moroccan forces. They are safe to travel through.

There are no border formalities between Morocco and Western Sahara. There are plenty of checkpoints on the roads (and Moroccan pentagram flags too). So long as your passport is in order, you won’t endure anything more taxing than having your details recorded in a ledger for prosperity. There’s no need for an additional visa, or a change of currency.

As some sort of demonstration to safety in Western Sahara, there are plenty of hotels in Dakhla and Laayoune (the ‘capital’), as well as a solitary example on the coast close to the border with Mauritania.

However, you should not attempt to travel between Moroccan administered areas and those run by the Polisario Front, which are divided by a long artificial ridge. Sahwari areas can only be reached via Mauritania, and even then it’s not all that easy.

While a ceasefire has been in place for some time, this internal border is still an active military zone which doesn’t welcome visitors.

Safety tips for travel through Western Sahara

For the most part, you can follow the same well-known safety tips as you would if travelling in Morocco .

Women should dress modesty as a way of avoiding unwanted attention and sexual harassment. If possible, travel in a group or by private taxi rather than using public transport options, which are crowded and gropey.

You should steer clear of any kind of protest, as they can rapidly turn violent. Moroccan authorities are not averse to cracking down heavily on any perceived dissent, and an international passport will not save you from a baton charge. You should also avoid actively voicing any support you may have for the Sahwari cause.

If travelling by road, be aware that there remains a risk from unexploded landmines. This risk increases substantially in the most remote areas. If you’re a little nervy, consider an organized tour instead.

There is also a risk of terrorism, coming from supporters of extremist Islam rather than the Polisario Front. Indiscriminate in nature, these attacks are very difficult to guard against, and you would be very unlucky to be caught up in one.

Is Western Sahara safe?

With the care you should take in any destination in the world, it’s not difficult to declare Western Sahara safe to visit, given my experiences in the territory. So long as you check your government’s travel advice before arrival, there’s no reason you shouldn’t be able to explore this rarely-visited part of Africa without problem.

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Western Sahara Travel Guide

In North Africa lies Western Sahara which has an Atlantic coastline . And despite its proximity to the Atlantic Ocean, the climate of Western Sahara is the desert type.

For years, the two countries Morocco and Mauritania have been in dispute over this country.

Things To Do In Western Sahara

While there is a long coastline, much of it is rocky and not fit for beaches or travel. Much of the territory is an arid desert. Low-lying sand dunes cover most of the territory.

The Saharan Desert

For those interested in sight-seeing, there are very few opportunities for wildlife or natural formations other than the dunes.

Dark Tourism

The area controlled by the Sahrawi Arab Democratic Republic (SADR)—known as the Free Zone or Liberated Territories—is of interest to those interested in the political conflict.

Try Local Food

With fishing being the main source of income for the local population, fish is the obvious choice: It is fresh and very cheap.

There are tons of restaurants which serve delightful food. A rocky coastline is a difficult place for fishing. Still, the seafood in Samarkand restaurant is lip-smackingly delicious.

Casa Luis which is famous for Lobster. And restaurant Bahia also plates up some delicious octopus and calamari. La Poissonier is another seafood gem near the Atlantic coast, and most probably the best in the city.

Travel back in time and experience the remnants of the Spanish colonial rule in the capital El Aaiún.

Unspoiled Beaches

Many beautiful, completely unspoiled beaches that sometimes go on for miles.

Shopping while traveling is not a bad idea as you get to take souvenirs home. And Gladys captures the essence of Western Sahara in its local shops.

Grab a shiny piece of jewelry at Ensemble Artisanal before you go back home.

Best Time To Visit

The climate of Western Sahara is arid. Throughout the year the temperature is high and uncomfortable. There is little to no humidity, hence the absence of rainfall.

Summers are torturous because the daily highs soar to 45 degree Celsius. But during nights there a drastic drop in temperature.

Winter is the only good option to visit unless you want to torture yourself in the Saharan Heat.

How To Get Here

El Aaiun is the only international airport in Western Sahara. And Smara and Dakhla are the other airports. Regular flights from Morocco, Spain and Canary Islands go to El Aaiun.

Buses also run from Casablanca and Marrakech to important cities like Dakhla, El Aauin, and Smara.

Travelers visiting Morocco, need a sports vehicle to drive to Western Sahara. The rugged desert landscape with no roads makes driving difficult, but adventure seekers love it.

Note: If you are traveling overland, you will find no border formalities between Morocco and Western Sahara. Your passport may be asked for at the many checkpoints on the road south, but will not be stamped, as the Moroccan authorities regard Western Sahara as part of Morocco.

Western Sahara’s inhabitants, known as Sahrawis, are of Arab and Berber ethnicity and speak the Hassānīya dialect of Arabic.

The culture is Islamic but not particularly strict; the form of Islam that developed among the nomad population is non-mosque-based.

They are hospitable and known for their elaborate tea ceremonies.

The native language of the majority is Hassaniya Arabic, which is mutually unintelligible with Standard Arabic that is not widely spoken.

Moroccan Arabic is also widely spoken and is the lingua franca on the streets and the workplace because of the many Moroccans residing in the country.

French is spoken by a lot of those who moved in from Morocco proper and to some degree by a lot of locals who sometimes deal with tourists.

Spanish is spoken rarely (mostly by those old enough to have learned it under Spanish occupation), English even rarer.

People are generally very patient with people they don’t share a language with and are also used to communicating with their hands and feet. Also, because of a very low literacy level, writing things down does not help communication much.

Currency & Money

The official currency of the Moroccan-controlled portion is the Moroccan dirham, sometimes symbolized as “Dh”, “Dhs, “DH”, or “Dhm”. It’s divided into 100 santime or centimes (c).

The SADR has also minted its own pesetas (“Pts.”). Algerian dinars and Mauritanian ouguiyas circulate alongside the Sahrawi peseta in the Sahrawi refugee camps and the SADR-controlled part of Western Sahara.

Note: Prices for things and cost of living is lower in Western Sahara than in Morocco, in part due to Moroccan government’s subsidization policy.

Teleboutiques and internet cafes are not hard to find in the cities, but connection speed may vary from place to place. Most cafes, restaurants and hotels offer free wifi.

Electricity & Plug Type

The Type C and Type F sockets work in Western Sahara. And Plug E fits both the sockets. Bring an adapter fitting two round pin sockets. The voltage used is 230 V, so a converter is necessary for low voltage devices.

Safety Tips

Hot, dry, dust-and-sand-laden sirocco wind can occur during winter and spring; widespread harmattan haze exists 60% of the time, often severely restricting visibility.

Political Violence

There are low-level uprisings and political violence which is altogether rare but can escalate. Occupying powers are likely to evict foreigners in such case.

Caution on Long Drives

Roads are remote and the overall infrastructure is not developed. Take enough fuel (always refuel before going on the next leg, you never know what is going to happen) and enough water (several liters per person).

Note: Thankfully, the mobile network connection exists along Highway N1.

Landmines and unexploded ordnance (UXO)

There was war in Western Sahara for over 15 years in the 1970s and 1980s, and as a result, the landmine and UXO situation to this day remains quite unclear, despite efforts of the Moroccan Government to improve the situation.

There are landmines not only in the remote parts of the country close to the berm, but all the way down the main coastal road (N1) to the Mauritanian border.

Google Earth clearly shows the efforts to clear minefields all along N1, which continue to this day—despite Moroccan officers tending to tell tourists that this part of the country is safe.

Around the settlements (Boujdour, Ad-Dakhla, Golfe de Cintra) the situation seems to be slightly worse, possibly due to their strategic significance in the war. The warning signs are sometimes so rusty that they can’t be recognized anymore, but usually, the combination of two small metal signs is a strong indicator.

Keep eyes open to lines of stones, cairns, staples of old tires and similar man-made marking—they are usually meaningful! Generally, any place off the tarmac-road of N1 and off-branching tarmac roads must be considered unsafe.

Car-wrecks are strong indicators—do not explore these! Strategically significant points (the various small passes, narrow valleys, elevated points, etc.) are more dangerous, but this does not mean that other places are safe.

Any man-made fortifications (straight sand-walls, round sand-wall [for artillery] and any other millitary looking movements of ground) pose particular danger (esp. south of Ad-Dakhla, but also south of Boujdour).

It might be that these were mined when being abandoned to prevent them from falling into the other party’s hand, or it might be that the surroundings were mined from the beginning to protect against guerrilla attacks, but anyway, the mine-cleaning patterns strongly indicate that such places were and possibly continue to be particularly dangerous.

Few to no mine-clearing efforts can be observed off the N1 – that possibly means that (e.g. for lack of touristic significance) these areas continue to be mined and efforts were focussed at the immediate surrounding of N1.

The patterns of cleaning mine-fields indicate that in not all cases does the Moroccan Government seem to be aware of the location of minefields, which requires more or less random search pattern.

Moreover, on Google Earth, it can be seen that where minefields have previously been cleared, new clearing activities have resumed later.

This again indicates that even traces of cleared minefields do not guarantee safety. This includes the surroundings of the lagoon of Ad-Dakhla, including the lands north of it.

Carry Water

No matter whether you travel in a private car or on a bus, always take enough water for at least 24 hours to be prepared if the vehicle breaks down.

Tap water may not be safe

The quality of tap water is variable; ask before drinking it, or just drink bottled water.

Poisonous Vegetation

Don’t touch unknown vegetation—some of the seemingly good looking fruit one can find on the roadside are poisonous even when just touched (one looks like miniature watermelons, another like small cucumbers).

Poisonous Insects, Scorpions, & Snakes

When climbing some of the rare stone formations, be aware of scorpions. Even though extremely rare, sometimes cobras are spotted (usually after a period of a few days with hot winds blowing to the West).

August 13, 2019 3:01 pm Published by Staff Writer

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How to Travel the Sahara Safely

Spanning over 5,600km, from the shores of the Red Sea to Mauritania on the Atlantic coast, the Sahara is the size of the United States. It covers almost one-third of Africa. The world’s largest non-polar desert includes 11 countries, with Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, Libya and Egypt fronting the Mediterranean. To the south lie Niger, Chad, Mali and Sudan, which overlook the Sahel’s semi-arid grasslands and savannah.

A short history of the Sahara

Since the Book of Exodus in the sixth century BCE, which contains the earliest known accounts of desert travel, deserts have been frequently depicted as a soul-destroying sea of dunes, scorched earth and hellish nothingness. While large swathes of the Sahara are inhospitable –- there’s roughly one person per four square kilometres –- sand covers only 15 to 25 percent. The rest is gravelly plains, mountains, depressions and salt flats. It has 20 or so seasonal lakes and 90-plus oases. Its highest point is Mount Koussi (3,415m) in Chad and its lowest point is Egypt’s Qattara Depression (-133m). The 4,000 to 6,600km long Niger and Nile Rivers are its only permanent waterways.

Around 12,000 years ago, the Nile Valley, at the Sahara’s eastern edge, was its only habitable corner. A millennium-and-a-half later, unprecedented monsoon rains began to green much of the landscape into a savannah. The process took just a few hundred years. Unsurprisingly, inhabitants of the Nile –- which was now increasingly overcrowded –- began venturing west into the interior. They built prehistoric settlements beside lakes and survived through fishing and hunting hippopotamus, elephant, giraffe, crocodile and whatever else they could spear with their bone harpoons. This continued for a couple of thousand years, with an increasing number of groups converting to a nomadic pastoral lifestyle, supported by cattle, sheep and goats, and the cultivation of barley and wheat.

A map by cartographer Carl Churchill showing a speculative reconstruction of the Sahara’s lakes, rivers and grasslands between seventh to fourth millennium BCE.

Gradually, isolated communities developed specialized technologies. Copper Age Egyptians shaped blades from Ethiopian-imported obsidian, Bronze Age Mauritanians extracted copper and Iron Age Nigerians mined salt in the dunes of northeast Niger. In turn, this created economic interdependence and gave rise to a complex network of trans-Saharan trade routes.

A Google Map created by Amado Alfadni, Pau Cata, Eleonora Castagnone, and Carlos Perez Marin outlining the Sahara’s trade networks, as seen via their Project Qafila page. They compiled the route data from five Sahara books: Eric Rosse’s The Trans-Saharan Book Trade , Frédéric Nussy’s Caravanes d’Alger au Niger par le Hoggar , W.B.K. Shaw’s The Forty Day Road , Ahmed Abdel Ghaffar’s Sudanese Trade in Black Ivory , and D Jacques-Meunié’s Les Maroc Saharien des Origines à 1670 . Marin has undertaken several 250 to 400km camel-supported journeys in Morocco, retracing sections of old caravan routes.

Security in the Sahara

Many of the trade routes are still in use today, though cars and trucks traveling unpaved roads have largely replaced camels. Two exceptions are the Azalai and Taghlamt salt caravan routes, run by Tuareg traders. Each stretches 600km between Mali’s Timbuktu and the Taoudenni salt mine. A slightly shorter one links Niger’s Agadez and the Bilma salt mine.

As romantic as travel here may seem, many of these ancient routes and regions of the Sahara are overshadowed by security issues, linked to illicit trafficking and trade, inter-ethnic conflict, separatism and terror organizations — much of it interconnected.

A 2017 graphic by the RHIPTO Norwegian Center for Global Analyses, illustrating the cross-country flow of goods, humans, arms, and drugs in the Sahara.

Thus, it’s easy for government advisories to convince would-be travelers that the Sahara is off-limits or too dangerous to visit. Since 2003, 150 foreigners have been kidnapped for ransom in the region, including Christian missionaries, overland motorcyclists, 4x4ers, cyclists and NGO workers. In most cases, visitors were taken by Al Qaeda or ISIS-affiliated groups and held in northern Mali, Nigeria and Burkina Faso. Roughly 90 percent of these victims are either still in captivity or released. The remainder were killed or died from other causes.

While tragic, this figure is minuscule compared to the more than 6,600 African migrants estimated to have died trying to cross the Sahara via human trafficking.

Sahara exploration and adventure

Morocco is usually safe, but otherwise, knowing where to go is not easy and can include real risks. Information may be sketchy. Some areas are off-limits due to local regulations and conflict. But one Sahara aficionado has been helping others make sense of the desert’s ever-changing logistics and security: Chris Scott of Sahara-Overland.com . He publishes up-to-date information both online and via his numerous Sahara guides and instructional handbooks for vehicle expeditions.

“I came in toward the end of a brief Golden Age of independent desert tourism and travel [in the late 1970s and 80s],” Scott told ExWeb. “Since the turn of this century, and certainly since the Arab Spring, much of the Sahara has slowly reverted to a no-go zone for outsiders. This is mainly due to the activities of militias, Islamists and bandit gangs, or restrictions accessing areas where such groups, or less dangerous smugglers, are thought to operate.”

Scott adds: “Like any extreme and iconic environment, the Sahara attracts its share of determined thrill-seekers. The lateral “east-west” has long been a favorite route. Some have pushed Chinese wind-barrows, sailed sand yachts or run the width of the Sahara.”

Early in the twentieth century, Ahmed Hassanein Bey traveled 3,000km by camel from the Mediterranean to British Sudan and discovered the Jebel Uweinat massif. A few years later, Prince Kemal el Din visited and named the nearby Gilf Kebir plateau, using novel Citroën Kegresse half-track cars to cross the sands. Samir Lama, a former Egyptian matinee idol turned desert explorer, traveled with the French desert sage, Theodore Monod, in the 1970s and 1980s.

An excerpt – starting at 5.00 – showing historical footage of a 1924 and ’31 attempt to cross Africa, via the Sahara, with a fleet of Citroën Kegresse.

Canadian filmmaker Frank Cole undertook one of the most audacious modern journeys, traversing 7,300km alone from Mauritania to Sudan with two camels in 1990. Cole’s motivations for the trip are intriguing: He was a recluse fascinated by mortality, yet was so terrified of death that he undertook the crossing as a way to confront his fears.

It took him 11 months to reach the Red Sea. He documented the trip using a 16mm spring-wound camera and spent the next decade editing a film about the journey titled, Life Without Death . In 2000, shortly after the initial release of the film, Cole set off again to attempt a double-crossing of the Sahara but was bludgeoned to death by bandits on the eastern outskirts of Timbuktu, Mali. His body was found tied to a tree with his camels, footage and belongings gone.

Trailer for Life Without Death . A 2008 film about Cole’s life called The Man Who Crossed the Sahara includes footage he sent from Mauritania back to Canada before his murder. Watch the biopic here .

Where to travel in the Sahara

In modern times, just about everywhere in the Sahara has been accessible at one time or another, even if it was just for a few years and only to the very intrepid. Some overlooked places fall between the historic north-south trade routes. The Libyan Desert in southwest Egypt (Gilf Kebir and Uweinat) is fascinating, says Scott; eastern Mauritania’s El Djouf less so. The far north and east of Niger have rarely been visited, even in the good years, because of its remoteness, the presence of Tubu militias and not insignificantly, land mines in key passes.

Modern desert dwellers typically make a living by guiding caravans or tourists, or else they pursue less legitimate activities. These desert nomads are puzzled by our attraction to the desert’s mystique, says Scott, but are more than happy to capitalize on it.

“Most prefer to follow well-worn “tramlines” and earn easy money, but one exception was a guy I knew in Algeria,” he says. “His lineage is Berabish (Arab) from Timbuktu, but dressing as a Tuareg was better for business. He ran a guiding agency but also had a reputation for sailing close to the wind with the authorities. He was up for my idea of crossing what I dubbed the Saharan “Empty Quarter” from Mauritania across northern Mali to Algeria, despite the risks. His fee was a nice red Landcruiser VX, which I managed to sell him on the side. Sure enough, his local connections, wily ways, and of course, language helped us out of some sticky situations.”

Left: Satellite photo of Waw-an-Namus (547m), a volcano in south-central Libya. Centre: Chris Scott’s 1998 photo of Waw-an-Namus. Right: A 12,000 km2 section of a 1950s French map of the Grand Erg de Bilma in northeast Niger, one of the lesser-explored regions of the Sahara. Photos: Chris Scott’s Sahara Blanks on the Map collection

Country by country

Providing detailed travel advice for 9.2 million km² is nearly impossible. As Scott says, “Things deteriorate quickly and improve slowly.” Nevertheless, the current snapshot, country by country, is:

Mauritania : Good security for at least 400km east, inland from the Atlantic Coast. Provinces near the Mali border, such as Adrar, Tagant, Hodh El Gharbi and Hodh Ech Chargui, may be less safe. A newly opened border has revived a colonial-era trans-Sahara route from Algeria across the Tiris Zemmour in the north, Scott points out. “I was heading for a recce here last spring before COVID closed the borders, but I hope to try this route next winter. In Mauritania, you have to search for the points of interest. There’s little to see in the far east, for example, other than say you’ve been there.”

Western Sahara : Travel and access along Moroccan-controlled Western Sahara (west of the Berm), running down the Atlantic Coast, is easy and safe. Expect a few military checkpoints. The main pistes are unpaved but marked, but be cautious about traveling inland away from them, because of the risk of mines.

Morocco : Straightforward access and safe. It’s easy to arrange independent camel-supported trips in the country.

Tunisia : Avoid the Libyan border zones and the far south, which is a military area. Certain spots near the Algerian border have experienced AQIM attacks. The Tunisian side of the sandy Grand Erg Oriental in the southwest is the only place to experience the Sahara.

Algeria : “In Algeria, only a relatively small region –- parts of the huge province of Illizi –- are open to off-highway travel,” says Scott. “It includes the fabulous ‘drive-in’ rock art of the Tadrart canyon, which is part of the Tassili N’Ajjer plateau.” The rest of the south is currently inaccessible off the highway, even if it’s safe enough. Algeria has yet to take Saudi’s step and ease restrictions on tourism, partly because of the perceived risk of over-border incursions to kidnap tourists.

Mali : A handful of travelers visit the country, but few, if any, travel overland over great distances. Open areas include Bamako, Siby in Manding Country, Djenne, Mopti, Sikasso, and Segou. Best to consult an experienced travel agency, such as the Mali-based Papillon Reizen . North of Timbuktu is off-limits: It’s the Sahara’s hotspot for trafficking and terror-related activity.

Niger : The Aïr Mountains and the Ténéré Desert, which stretches beyond Agadez and into western Chad, are worth visiting. Still, there are serious security issues in the area, and access is not guaranteed at the moment. If you are still interested, consult the local agency, Niger Travel and Tours .

Libya : North Africa’s most dangerous country. As with northern Mali, you can forget about visiting its deserts for a long time. It’s at war and there’s plenty of infighting between the national army, government and militia groups. While its capital, Tripoli, is not in the Sahara, it is sometimes possible to visit there with specialist adventure travel companies, such as Untamed Borders .

Chad : The mountains of northern Chad’s Borkou-Ennedi-Tibesti region (a.k.a. BET) is a highlight of the Sahara and open to visitors. Outside of the capital, N’Djamena, escort guides are required, although they don’t offer any real security. Overall, the country is relatively safe, as long as you avoid Lake Chad: The surrounding forests are a Boko Haram hideout. Anyway, it’s unlikely that you would be able to access the lake, unless you are working for an NGO.

Sudan : Traveling east of the Nile is not much of an issue. But the further west you go from the Nile (especially for the Darfur region), the more you require permits. The northwestern corner around the Libyan, Chad and Egyptian borders has a Norway-sized chunk of the desert that is mostly uninhabited, but its accessibility is unknown.

Egypt : Its western deserts are a highlight, particularly the Gilf region, which covers Jebel Uweinat to the south and the Great Sand Sea to the north. Although, obtaining permission with escorts to visit the Gilf region is highly unlikely and even in previous years it involved diving through “a series of flaming hoops for several months and paying a lot of money to various entities,” says Scott. The White Desert and the Eastern Desert, as well as parts on the Sinai, remain accessible.

His parting words of wisdom for any would-be desert explorer: “[Go with a] GPS, maps, sat phone and a sound plan, which will almost certainly not pan out as expected. Risks are much less if you don’t travel alone. Fuel is distance; water is time; carry more than you need of both.”

Finally, if a place is inaccessible, have patience. As the Arabs say, “everything passes.”

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My Travels to Dakhla, Western Sahara: Straight Into the Unknown

Looking around, you find empty intersections and very few vehicles on the streets, and you quickly notice that there’s barely any people walking around either. When someone does glide by in the distance, in their traditional hooded robe or cloth covered face to protect themselves from the elements, you wonder where the other people could possibly be.

Imagine a town with seemingly little connection to the outside world, as if it were located on an entirely different planet altogether.

Welcome to Dakhla, Western Sahara.

Why Would I Travel to Dakhla?

The reason I decided to travel to Dakhla, Western Sahara (or Moroccan Sahara depending on who you talk to) was a random one. I was in Casablanca, Morocco and I had 8 days before I needed to be in London to meet up with my girlfriend. I searched for flights to all kinds of cities and suddenly, I saw Dakhla on the map. It was a relatively short distance away by plane, the fare was quite inexpensive and I knew absolutely nothing about the place.

It seemed like the perfect destination and I booked my ticket.

My Intro to Dakhla

On my first afternoon in Dakhla, I found myself sitting on a bench in the middle of an empty, yet brand new, concrete boardwalk along the water. I zipped up my windbreaker and stared out in front of me, across the Dakhla Bay, with the faintest view of the mainland far away in the background.

After 10 minutes, a man walked by, we nodded, and he sat down at another bench. The wind pounded my head. I sat in disbelief at how little activity was around me. Where were the people? What was I supposed to do here?

And I started to wonder if my decision to travel to Dakhla was a good one.

Time passed, the wind howled, the sun began to set. And before long, perhaps as the sky turned from blue to bright pink, I began to perk up.

A Trip Into the Unknown

I don’t know what triggered it exactly but I soon made an important realization that would change my perspective.

It’s actually quite exhilarating to not know. There’s something special about having no clue whatsoever about where you are and what there is to do. If I was going to make the most of my time in Dakhla, I needed to find the people, I needed to bust out some horrendous French and try to communicate, I needed to start asking questions and creating my experience.

What I really needed was to go back in time 15 years, to those days when we didn’t have access to all kinds of information and had no choice but to show up in a new city without knowing what to expect. Sure, I could have looked up some information about Dakhla and its surroundings but I didn’t really have time and there really isn’t that much information out there anyway.

Prior to my trip, all I had done was book a room.

And so it went. I transported myself back to the good old days.

I asked the guesthouse owner for recommendations. I talked to the woman in the bakery and the man at the travel agency that I had mistaken for a tourism office. I tried my best to communicate, in my horrendous French and so-so Spanish, with the waiter at the small local restaurant and with the man selling fruit on the side of the road.

And in the end…I got nothing. Nada. Rien du tout.

Turns out, there really isn’t much to do when you travel to Dakhla. As my guesthouse owner bluntly put it, “ there’s nothing going on here at all. ”

There’s a lighthouse (that was closed), a market (that was quite empty) and a main square that was as desolate as could be. The beach in town was all torn up and under some kind of construction. There were tea shops but they were almost all without any tea drinkers.

The experience was raw, and fascinating in its own way. It was an old school trip straight into the unknown.

Is Dakhla Worth a Visit?

By Day 3, I had a routine. I woke up in my comfy room at the Guesthouse Dar Rio Or and went upstairs to the owner’s apartment. Here they served me a large breakfast of coffee, eggs and several kinds of bread, which I ate on my own of course as I was naturally the only guest. Two hours of work on the little balcony off my room. Three hours of roaming around town, an afternoon rest and an evening wander along the water, with a simple dinner at one of the simple eateries.

On paper, and based on my description above, it would seem that there is little reason to travel to Dakhla.

But on the other hand…

…when’s the last time you’ve been in a city and you were the only traveler there? How often can we visit a place that is completely without tourism infrastructure or tourism influence and is as real as it gets?

Dakhla is eerily quiet. The wind really does hurt. You’ll inhale a good amount of sand, too. You’ll spend a lot of time sitting on benches, sipping tea and pondering life, not because you’re in the middle of a spiritual awakening but because, again, there is nothing else to do.

However, when a local sits next to you on the bench, when the baker smiles, when the shoesmith offers to show you how he makes his shoes…when the kids kick you the football, when the taxi driver doesn’t want to drop you off because he can’t believe a foreigner is in his taxi, when nobody tries to rip you off…when a market seller realizes you’re not from these parts and you share a laugh after they tried to sell you a live chicken, when you stare out at the Bahia de Dakhla and your mind drifts into a state of pure peace and quiet…

…you won’t want to leave. Okay, I did want to leave, but I was definitely happy I visited!

To be outside the normal influences of tourism was invigorating, challenging and rare. And as a result, such an experience can only be positive.

Planning a Trip to Dakhla?

Here’s my Quick Guide to Dakhla post where I talk about entry/visas, safety, accommodation, where to eat, what to do and more.

If you plan to travel to Dakhla and have any questions, just let me know!

New blog posts, honest updates from my 21 years of constant travel, personal recommendations and the best of travel from around the world.

16 Comments

My husband is from Dakhla . An amazing place and paradise for windsurfers and kite surfers, beginners and pros love this place . They come from all over the world . Best kept secret amongst surfers. A a hidden gem in the west sahara and people are so friendly . Really worth the travel. I love Dakhla.

Thank you for this wonderful description. That’s the way I experienced it, too – and I loved it. Although I missed the wind and the sand in the eyes. Would like to add that there are quite good budget accommodation options, too. Thanks again.

“Sometimes nothin’ is a real cool hand.” –Cool Hand Luke

Its fascinating how you bring us to another part of the world “The unknown and unseen”. We all read about famous places but little is written about places like Dhakla. The anonymity lets you explore and brings out a different perspective. I enjoyed reading this post.

Hi Derek, You’re a gifted storyteller. Have you ever considered writing a book?

Dakhla seems a really special and rare destination to visit. So empty indeed, nearly desolate. Strange they even have an airport, hotels, and taxis. I think I’d love to once get to the city like that, just to feel a special only tourist around. Probably I’ll also combine it with my trip to Morocco. If I decide to go, how long should I stay there not to get bored? 8 days seems too many, right?

I admire your spontaneous and adventurous self. Keep posting.

I really liked this post. I love reading about places I have never heard of before. I also wanted to add that I am a subscriber of your travel email and I am so excited when it shows up in my inbox. An incredible amount of useful and interesting reading material. It seems like a lot of research and work for someone to put all that together, so I just wanted to let you know that it is appreciated by at least one reader

Love this account of being somewhere that has yet to be engulfed with tourism. We travelled to a few villages in the remote areas of countries like Bosnia and Albania that were as if cut off from the rest of the world. It’s definitely an education and you feel privileged to be part of their world for a while. More often than not – no signal so you are forced to take a step back – just as you describe. Great piece and it sounds like the wind and sand are great exfoliators for a glowing skin! 😉

Sounds like a place you can rest assured that nobody will ever find you, that in itself must feel refreshing if only for a short time!

Sounded like a blast, what a contrast from the tourist heaving streets of Barcelona, where I live. : )

I love how you do the world. Your authentic way of being and openness. Thank you for inspiring the rest of us to be open to the unknown and to embrace life.

I’m headed to Bratislava in October. I recently re-read your post from your time there. I’m still smiling.

I can’t wait until one day path crosses yours. I believe it will!

Thank you for reading Sharon. Enjoy your time in Bratislava as I’m sure you will. I love when these smaller, lesser visited destinations end up on travelers’ itineraries! And yes, I look forward to meeting up somewhere out there. Keep me posted with your travels!

Hmm we are in fez right now, in morocco for 2 months w no plans. Very tempted to go to dakhla. Spent a wk in meknes.

Hey Debbie – If you want something really unique, it’s worth a visit! Definitely not a standard destination but that desert and mainland coast is something really incredible.

This is awesome! And by far my favorite way to travel. Just pick a destination and go, don’t plan, just show up and see who you meet and where you end up. Sounds incredibly surreal and pretty amazing. Probably a bit near wracking at first, but an interesting time seems to have been had.

Hey Barret – It is a great way to travel. It does feel strange at first when you are completely engulfed by the unknown, with little information to turn to in order to get your footing. But it doesn’t take long to figure things out step by step and usually, the result is quite rewarding.

hi there .. i’m originally from dakhla .. I wish that I meet u .. I would take u to places maybe u didn’t go to them .. but it’s ok .. maybe next time if u diced to come back again .. nice to see this from u thanks

This is really cool. It shows how incredibly small the world is we live in. What are some places you would suggest if any of us ever have a chance to make it out there.

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Western Sahara

Western Sahara travel guide, including map of Western Sahara, top Western Sahara travel experiences, and tips for travel in Western Sahara and Morocco

Our travel guide to Western Sahara is coming soon. In the meantime, please check out our Western Sahara Essential Info page, and the posts in our travellers' forums.

Further Reading

Western sahara – vital statistics.

• Capital of Western Sahara: No capital (Largest city: El Aaiún (Laâyoune))
• Population of Western Sahara: 491,000
• Languages in Western Sahara: Hassaniya Arabic, Moroccan Arabic
• Time in Western Sahara: GMT
• International dialling code in Western Sahara: +212
• Voltage in Western Sahara: 220V 50Hz
• Visa information for Western Sahara: Visa information
• Money in Western Sahara: Moroccan dirhams (MAD)  
• Western Sahara travel advice: Foreign & Commonwealth Office

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