visit alderney.com

Why you should visit amazing Alderney in autumn

From the end of September the summer crowds disperse and a unique tranquility returns to Alderney. Autumnal sunshine floods across picturesque landscapes. Days start with cool, crisp mornings and end with brilliantly clear evenings, perfect for enjoying the breathtaking sunsets and world-class stargazing.

Spectacular sunsets are a common occurrence during autumn: here's another one

As visitor numbers subside, exploring Alderney becomes an even more relaxing affair. Take to the trails and find your own piece of paradise. Or hop on a bicycle and get lost amongst the quiet country lanes, with hardly a car in sight.

Perfectly placed for the autumn migration

Alderney's birdwatching also takes on a new look during autumn as migratory birds including swallows, starling, all sorts of tits and warblers stop off before a long trip south for the winter.

Autumn also offers the final chance to see some Alderney's most famous inhabitants. To catch a glimpse of the unique blonde hedgehog before they hibernate for winter you need to be here before the middle of December. If spotting a 'blonde' is high up on your agenda, we recommend heading out with the Alderney Wildlife Trust for their Hedgehog & Bat Walk , or Alderney Tours on their After Dark Safari .

One of the things that keeps visitors coming back to Alderney is the simplicity of it all. Activities like picking wild blackberries on a quiet country lane, enjoying the fresh salty air, can truly help to revitalise you.

Get your first choice of accommodation & restaurants

Back in town, the quieter season gives you an incredible choice of unique places to stay . Autumn visitors get to enjoy the island's best-loved restaurants without any jostling for the last free table. Enjoy everything from locally-sourced seafood to a cold pint in the pub with a shaggy dog story from a proud local.

For an island of Alderney's size we really do have restaurants to suit every visitor's style, from cafés to pubs to fine dining. The Blonde Hedgehog is a newly developed restaurant and hotel serving the kind of food you want to photograph before you eat! Head Chef Stephen Scott and his team focus on simple dishes, stacked with local ingredients and bursting with flavour.

The Blonde Hedgehog's beautiful dining room

Things to do during the longer evenings

Most trips to Alderney are spent in the great outdoors, but there's still plenty to do once the sun has set, or if the weather isn't good.

Catching a film at Alderney Cinema should be high on your to-do list. The ninety seat auditorium offers an amazing 'step-back-in-time' experience - until very recently it still had an interval while the projectionist changed the reel!

Alderney Cinema usually open on Monday and Thursday evenings

The cinema usually opens its door on Monday and Thursday evenings. It is wholly run by enthusiastic volunteers, and film nights provide visitors a great chance to mingle with friendly local film buffs. Grab your tickets from the box office before the showing, or pop into the Movies and Music shop to find out what's on.

Getting to Alderney in autumn

During autumn the easiest and most reliable way to get to Alderney is to fly. Aurigny run regular direct flights to Alderney from Southampton and Guernsey, with early bookings often rewarded with lower fares.

Visitors from London and Manchester can fly to Alderney via Guernsey.

An alternative for this season is taking a trip over on the Alderney Ferry Services , a small ferry sailing from Guernsey to Alderney.

Can't get here in autumn? Book early for 2024.

Autumn offers visitors a chance to experience what life is like on Alderney outside of the peak summer season. But if you can't make it over this year and are considering a trip in 2024, the best advice we can give you is book early.

Local and visitors cherish the quiet, laidback pace of life on Alderney, meaning once the island reaches it summer capacity, that's it. It's not uncommon for the most popular hotels, apartments and home stays to be booked up months in advance, so start making your enquiries now for summer 2024.

You may also like

A hidden gem

There's no other place in the world quite like Alderney

How to get here

The journey is just the start of your adventure

Choose your own island experience. From a 4-star hotel and converted forts to a beautiful beach-side campsite

See & Do

Invigorating adventures, perfect family experiences, there’s always plenty of things to see and do

Discovering Alderney by foot, at your own pace, is the best way to explore the island’s breathtaking scenery. 

Daily What's On

There is always something going on daily in Alderney whatever the time of year. Check out our Daily What's On.

Get our latest news and offers

By using this website you agree to allow cookies onto your computer. Read our cookie policy .

All products are independently selected by our editors. If you buy something, we may earn an affiliate commission.

Alderney: the most charming Channel Island

By Laura Fowler

What a funny little island this is. What a curious, luminous, blusteringly beautiful speck of a place. Alderney is the Channel Island that no one has heard of. It is not the biggest one, or the smallest, or the one with famous cows or without any cars. Alderney is the beguiling one. The one you lose your heart to. It is like joining a secret society, flying here in a tinpot 12-seater, buffeted by every breeze. Three square miles, just off France – yet so much space, so much drama in its coastline, heart-skippingly beautiful beaches around every corner. The light! The colour! The sea is kingfisher blue. They say the waters flow all the way from the Caribbean on the Gulf Stream, accounting for the exotic shells along the shore, the dolphins and basking sharks who come for the sunny microclimate (islanders take a dip on New Year's Day). Summer lasts forever here, or seems to. It is not like Britain at all. (It is not, actually, Britain at all.)

My mother came here in the 1960s on family holidays. How my grandparents heard of it, nobody knows. It took them a full day at sea on an old tramp steamer, all their summer stuff wrapped up in a five-pound note. They stayed in a wooden shack, ramshackle with paper-thin walls, which is exactly the kind of detail a teenage girl with a 10-year-old brother – my uncle, now the island's doctor – would remember. They fell in love with Alderney. The wildness of it, the emptiness. The white-gold beaches: Arch and Saye, Corblets and Braye, not a soul on them.

Alderney remains remarkably unchanged. A land out of time. There is a refreshing guilelessness about the place, a harking back to smashing hols of beach cricket, Enid Blyton adventuring and sand-in-cheese sandwiches. The gentle town of Saint Anne has everything it needs and nothing more. No chain stores; not even a Boots. A butcher, a baker, a fishing-net-maker. A charming and eccentric French-English mix: a grocer called Arkwright et Fils (' Ne pas ouvrir toutes heures '). Breton stripes and buckets and spades. Fish and chips – and Champagne.

It's not that the islanders wouldn't welcome hipsters and single-origin coffee, just that a sockless brogue wouldn't work on the sand and cobblestones. If a man has a big beard on Alderney, he's a fisherman. You know where you are with this kind of man.

Kids with sea-tangled hair ride barefoot in the back of weathered wooden pick-ups. There are few road rules, fewer seat belts. My uncle's banger grows lichen inside and out, its one remaining wing mirror stuck on with Polyfilla. We bounce over potholes, the car filled with sandy children, the baby on my lap in the front. On my lap! In the front! No seat belts!

'I'm not actually sure this is safe,' says my cousin Beckie, as she steers us across a high narrow bridge into Fort Albert. Like a dozen other forts on Alderney it was built by Victorians, reinforced by Germans, and is now derelict. Hidden tunnels and wartime relics are everywhere – with a dark history, for those interested in knowing those kinds of things. Sometimes to not know is better.

Charley Ward

Rachel Howard

Lucy Bruton

We trip, we skip, we run carefree and unknowing, to the sea. To the Dougie, the quay where braver souls do backflips at high tide, to launch ourselves one-two-three into the air, suspended in time for a moment before plunging into cold, deep blue. To the lighthouse, through sun-cream-scented gorse and blackberry bushes, our fingers stained purple from picking; following the railway track, making our sandalled way over wildflowers growing up between the sleepers, knowing the next train is not for days. And to Arch Beach, pale and perfect as a fingernail, where even in August ours are the only footprints in the sand, as empty today as when my mother turned cartwheels along its shore.

The best hotels in Alderney

THE GEORGIAN HOUSE

Everyone on the island winds up at The Georgian House at some point, having Normandy moules and cider in the garden and later singing sea shanties and dancing like nobody's watching to live bands. The restaurant is possibly Alderney's best, and there are four new rooms upstairs added by young owner Holly Chandler, who divides her time between Alderney and the Alps , accounting for such cosmopolitan oddities as lobster sliders and Farrow & Ball paint.

Address: The Georgian House, Victoria Street, St Anne, Alderney GY9 3UF Telephone: +44 1481 82 2471 Website: georgianalderney.com Price: Doubles from £80 Book your stay

BRAYE BEACH HOTEL

Some of Alderney's best digs, Braye Beach Hotel is set above the dunes in a row of 18th-century fishermen's cottages; long ago boats would be brought into the barrel-vaulted basement, where there is now a wine cellar and lounge with window seats, and doors opening onto the beach. There is no lovelier way to spend an afternoon than on the terrace drinking Champagne and eating what is surely the best fish and chips in the British Isles . Upstairs, 27 nautical-style rooms are full of light, and those on the top floor have Juliet balconies; fall asleep with the shutters open to the hush of waves, and wake to views of the sea.

Address: Braye Beach Hotel, Braye Street, Alderney GY9 3XT Telephone: +44 1481 824300 Website: brayebeach.com Price: Doubles from £105 Book your stay

THE BLONDE HEDGEHOG

Nine rooms are spread across two neighbouring townhouses in the pretty, cobblestoned main town of St Anne. One occupies the old Rose & Crown pub, the other is called Clarence House, and there’s also a three-bedroom cottage, The Corner House, across the street. London-based entrepreneur and first-time hotelier Julie-Anne Uggla was looking for a country retreat when she ended up on Alderney by chance – she and some friends were on a private plane to Cornwall that was diverted in a storm. Rooms riff off the familiar current palette of vintage-inspired greens, blues and greys, pepped up with dusky pink and mustard velvet. Original features such as fireplaces and rolltop baths meet industrial touches; sleek mid-century furniture and brass drinks trolleys rub up against natural textures in sisal rugs, wicker baskets, wool blankets. Everything hangs together in a covetable, easy homeliness. By Emma Love

Address: The Blonde Hedgehog, 6 Le Huret, St. Anne, Alderney Telephone: +44 1481 823230 Website: blondehedgehog.com Price: Double rooms from £230 Book your stay

The party house to rent

FORT CLONQUE

Take over the Victorian fortified island of Fort Clonque with 12 friends, not lovers. So authentic is the Landmark Trust's restoration that each of the 13 iron beds in the soldiers' and officers' quarters is single. The most sensational thing is not its unique weirdness, or the ocean panoramas, or even that it's cut into a dramatic rock face, but that it's accessed via a narrow causeway and gets cut off at high tide. Bring supplies and throw a party, loud as you like.

Address: Fort Clonque, Alderney, Channel Islands GY9 Website: landmarktrust.org.uk Price: From £740 for four nights (sleeps 13)

The best restaurants in Alderney

THE MOORINGS

Exuberant with families tripping off the beach for lunch at its stripped-back vintage tables, The Moorings was taken over by Chandler's team from The Georgian, and it's got a surf-hangout vibe – albeit with Saturday-night discos.

Address: The Moorings, Braye Street, Alderney, Channel Islands Website: themoorings.gg

CANTINA NUMBER 6

Cantina Number 6 on Braye Street is the top spot here for brunch and lunch Mediterranean-style (tapas, pizza).There's a suntrap of a terrace overlooking the beach, and a charming interior hand-built from tea chests, driftwood and packing crates, with lighting made out of dive finds from local shipwrecks.

Address: Cantina Number 6, 6 Braye Street, Braye, Alderney, Channel Islands Telephone: +44 1481 824063

8 BRILLIANT THINGS TO DO IN ALDERNEY

Make tracks.

Hop on a bike to Longis Beach and, if the tide is out, along the causeway to Raz Island; then go for seafood in The Old Barn's garden of palm trees and holly-hocks.

Address: The Old Barn, Longis Road, GY9 3YB, Guernsey Telephone: +44 1481 822537

LAY SIEGE TO A FORTRESS

Secret tunnels, real and rumoured, run all over (there's one from Arch Beach to Saye Bay; take a torch), and there are 18 forts – Roman, Victorian, German – from times when the island had huge military significance. Most are derelict and unsafe to go clambering around in, which makes it all the more thrilling to do so. In summer, an Aussie called Mike can be found barbecuing in the bunker up by Mannez Lighthouse.

TAKE THE TUBE TO THE LIGHTHOUSE

On Saturday afternoons in peak season, two vintage Northern Line carriages run between Braye and disused Mannez Quarry. From the quarry wend along the path to Mannez Lighthouse; climb up inside, if it's open, or picnic on the cliff-top with views right across the sea to France.

Telephone: +44 7911 739572 Website: alderneyrailway.gg

PARTY HARD IN A DISUSED QUARRY

On summer nights during Alderney Week, a natural bowl within the rock at Mannez Quarry is transformed for Goa -style raves with trippy, fluoro hangings and industrial cable reels for podiums.

Website: alderneyweek.net

STAR GAZING AND NIGHT SWIMMING

Slip away after hours with blankets and a midnight feast to Fort Tourgis, Longis Beach or Braye, and watch the stars – the skies here are so clear it's like being at sea. Stars in the water, too: crests foaming on the shore glow with bioluminescent plankton. Go skinny-dipping, kicking up clouds of blue-green light.

CATCH YOUR OWN SUPPER

Winkle out shellfish and samphire from the rockpools of Clonque Bay, or jump on a fishing boat at the harbour. Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall foraged for limpets and caught enough mackerel and wild sea bream for a River Cottage beach barbecue.

GO SHOOTING IN A HAUNTED FORT

Rock up on a Sunday morning and give Geof £15 to blast away a hangover clay-pigeon shooting in abandoned 19th-century hilltop Fort Albert, said to be haunted. The views are spectacular: watch waves explode like fireworks over the breakwater.

TAKE OFF ON A BIRD SAFARI

Deserted Burhou Island is inhabited only by birds and seals. There is a basic cottage – a hut, really – to stay in. Just you and the puffins, gannets and such record numbers of seabirds that a new breed of spotter – tanned and under 40 – is flocking here. You can help catch the birds and tag them at the Nunnery, a Roman fort.

For more information on Alderney, see visitalderney.com ; and for Guernsey, visitguernsey.com

Like this? Now read:

The best British islands: 17 secret islands off the UK coast

By Lisa Drewe and Sophie Campbell

Small islands around the UK to visit

By Dixe Wills

10 private European islands you can book on Airbnb

By Chris Schalkx

21 Best Things to Do in Alderney Channel Islands (+ Hidden Gems)

Grey Globetrotters contains affiliate links and is an Amazon Services LLC Associates Program member. If you make a purchase using one of these Amazon links, I may receive compensation at no extra cost to you. See my Disclosure Policy  for more information.

Alderney is a tiny British island with a mild climate and fascinating historical sites to discover. Add gorgeous beaches, incredible sunrises and sunsets, and the most delicious food to the mix too, and you’ll soon find a surprising amount of things to do in Alderney.

As a small child, I first visited the island, staying in an adorable little cottage with bunk beds and a porthole window I could peep through from my top bunk! Alderney felt like heaven to a six-year-old and still does today.

Over the years, I’ve been back to Alderney several times and explored the island thoroughly! It will be one of my favourite places to escape for years.

Before You Leave For Alderney

The Channel Islands have long been popular with Brits, with thousands loving their trips to Jersey and Guernsey, but sleepy little Alderney is different. It’s quaint, unhurried, and safe – the perfect spot to unwind, relax and rejuvenate in one of the sunniest places in the British Isles.

For an island of just over three-square miles, there’s an astonishing amount of things to do. History buffs, nature lovers and foodies love Alderney and it’s a terrific place to visit with kids!

You can get anywhere within 10 minutes of the main town, and the 50 miles of footpaths keep keen walkers happy – and burn off the calories.

Getting to Alderney is a bit of an adventure, and that’s part of the fun. The tiny Dornier 228 propeller planes only have one seat on each side of a narrow aisle, but they are efficient and very comfortable for short flights to Alderney.

While Alderney is a fascinating place for your holidays, the island won’t be for you if you’re looking for wall-to-wall bright lights and lots of late-night entertainment!!

About Alderney

Where  is  Alderney?

Alderney is a relatively small British island eight miles off the coast of France and 45 minutes from Southampton. You can reach the island by ferry or plane – see exactly how to get to Alderney below.

How long and wide is Alderney?

Alderney is part of the Bailiwick of Guernsey, and at  three miles long by one and a half miles wide , it’s the third largest of the Channel Islands. The main settlement is St Anne, a pleasant village in the middle of the island known as “Town”.

How many people live on Alderney?

At the end of March 2021, the Alderney population was 2,102. The number swells significantly from April to October, as the island is popular with tourists.

It’s a beautiful, underrated sun trap that feels like you’re stepping back 50 years. There are loads of things to do on Alderney – it’ll take you a few trips to get through this lot!

What NOT To Miss in Alderney

If your time is limited, here are the top 5 things you’ll want to include in your Alderney itinerary.

#1 A Birdwatching Boat Trip with Alderney Wildlife Trust

The boat trip to the rocky outcrops of Les Etacs and Ortacs, known as “Gannet Rock”, is incredible. You’ll get amazing views and the spectacle of 8,000 pairs of gannets nesting on the rocks. 

As the boat chugs merrily along, the cacophony of calling birds will fill the air, while the tang of salty air mingles will compete with the unmistakable smell of guano!

#2 Visit the Alderney Society Museum

Check out the award-winning  Alderney Museum , where a treasure trove of memorabilia awaits. You’ll learn how the island’s entire population was evacuated at the start of the Second World War and how 30,000 mines had to be cleared before islanders could return home in December 1945.

#3 Explore the Victorian Fortifications

Alderney has more fortresses per square mile than elsewhere in the UK. Some Victorian forts, built in the 1850s, are accessible and fascinating to poke around.

Fort Tourgis and the Cambridge Battery have been renovated recently and should be on your itinerary.

Top Tip : Take a warm jacket , as these coastal defences can be windswept, and you’ll need a torch in some places!

#4 Relax on Your Favourite Beach

You will love the beaches in Alderney. The beautiful coastline is never far, and you can almost imagine being in the Caribbean on a sunny day. 

Seriously though – the beaches in Alderney are stunning. Even if you’re only visiting Alderney for a few days, you can visit them all to decide which your best spots.

Saye Bay and Braye Bay are favourites for swimming and their lovely white sands, whereas Longis Beach is protected from winds by a German ‘anti-tank wall’!

Visiting the beaches is one of the most popular things to do in Alderney

#5 Eat all the seafood

Pack your elasticated waist pants – food on Alderney is excellent! Dressed crab and lobster are local specialities, with plenty of “straight from the boat” seafood to tempt you.

There’s nothing quite like eating freshly caught fish with locally grown veggies and you’ll have many places to do that in Alderney. I’ve tried as many restaurants as possible, but it’s a work in progress. 

The island of Alderney is a beautiful, underrated sun trap that feels like you’re stepping back 50 years. There are loads of things to do on Alderney – it’ll take you a few trips to get through this lot!

Shopping in Alderney

Alderney has a pretty cobbled high street (Victoria Street), usually decorated with cheery bunting. You’ll find a “proper” post office, butcher, newsagent, and other independent shops, but absolutely no chain stores!

Most Alderney shops still close for a traditional ‘lunch hour’ and for half a day on Wednesdays. It’s all very civilised!

Elsewhere on the island, you’ll find ‘honesty boxes’ on people’s doorsteps, selling everything from fruit and vegetables to flowers and eggs to homemade jams and chutneys. 

Top Attractions in Alderney

While you’e on the island, there are plenty more iconic and varied attractions you won’t want to miss!

Alderney Lighthouse (Mannez Lighthouse)

Alderney Lighthouse is located on the island’s northeast coast at Quénard Point. The 32 metre high structure is painted white with a central black band, making it more visible to shipping during daylight hours.

The lighthouse was automated in 1997, and the last keepers left in early October. You can still see the keepers’ accommodation next to the tower.

Catch the 2:30 pm train from Braye harbour on Sundays to get to the lighthouse for the 3 pm guided tour with the Alderney Wildlife Trust. 

While on the tour, you can climb the steep winding staircase to get incredible coastline views from the top. You’ll learn how the lighthouse was built in 1912 and how it keeps shipping traffic away from the island’s treacherous rocks and currents.

The  Alderney Race  is a treacherous stretch of water between Alderney and the Cap de la Hague coast in France. It’s the strongest tidal stream in Europe, with an uneven sea bed and hazardous rocks that are a real danger to shipping.

After your tour, catch the 4 pm train back to St Anne.

The terrain from the station to the lighthouse is rough and has steep drops, so keep to the path. The lighthouse is for non-disabled visitors; you must be at least 1.1m tall to visit.

The Nunnery Roman Fort

Alderney has one of Britain’s best-preserved small roman forts, originally built in the 4th century. The fort was built to defend Longis Bay harbour and the Roman settlement nearby.

Over the centuries, the fort has been adapted and used by Tudors, British soldiers, and the German forces, who added a large bunker to the site.

The site has just had a substantial makeover and is now a rewarding heritage site.

The Old Watermill

The Watermill in the Val de la Bonne Terre (Bonne Terre Valley) is one of the oldest surviving sites on Alderney, with records dating back to the early 13th Century. The present ruins are the remains of a mill rebuilt in 1796. 

With excellent information boards about the ongoing work, the Watermill is well worth a visit and is always open to the public, with free admission.

The Dark Skies

Alderney ….. there’s no better place for gazing up at the magic of the Milky Way on a clear night, as there’s practically zero light pollution!

World War II German Fortifications

The second world war was one of the darkest periods in Alderney’s history, as German forces invaded and occupied the island. All but a handful of islanders were evacuated before the invasion.

The German soldiers reinforced the old Victorian coastal defences and littered the island with many new concrete fortifications. Alderney became a crucial part of Hitler’s ‘Atlantic Wall’ and one of the most fortified places in the world!

Today, you can visit some WWII bunkers and the massive lookout post known as the Odeon, perched on a rocky outcrop at the edge of a cliff.

St Anne’s Church

Located in the heart of the town, St Anne’s is the largest church in the Channel Islands!  Known as the cathedral of the Channel Islands, St Anne’s is also the on ly church in the Channel Islands to have a bell tower with 12 bells! It’s pretty impressive when they are all ringing!

The Old Church Tower and Clock

When the large new church was completed, the old church was demolished, as it was small and in a poor state of repair. Only the tower, built in 1767, now remains. It still has the two original bells you can hear daily, striking each quarter hour.

More Attractions and Activities 

Ride on the Alderney Railway

You’ll enjoy the quaint railway if you love heritage railways and history, as it’s the last working railway in the Channel Islands. The railway was visited three times by Queen Victoria and used by the German forces during WWII.

Go Rockpooling

Spending time at the beach hunting for treasures in a rockpool is one of the most popular things to do in Alderney if you have kids. At low tide, it’s fascinating to see the tiny creatures left behind by the sea! 

Remember to check the tide times – it’s dangerous to rock pool on a rising tide!

Visit Alderney Cinema

Movie nights at Alderney’s quaint little cinema are fun. The intimate cinema in St Anne is run by volunteers, with movies generally screened two or three months after the general release.

Picnic on the Beach

One of my favourite things to do on Alderney is picking up tasty bites from the deli in Victoria Street in St Anne and taking them to one of the lovely white sand beaches for a leisurely afternoon listening to the sounds of the sea.

Active Adventures

If you like your holidays with a touch of adventure, Alderney is an excellent choice! Everything is almost on your doorstep!

Hike the Alderney Coastal Path

On your trip to Alderney, one of the great things to do is to hike the scenic coastal paths at your own pace.

From rugged gorse-carpeted cliff paths to quiet sandy bays, you can thoroughly explore Alderney with free self-guided walks from the Visitor Information Centre.

Top Tip: Some of the walks are quite very challenging! You will need your walking boots, and water bottle and don’t forget your camera as the views are incredible.

Try Kayaking with the Alderney Wildlife Trust

Wildlife kayaking around the coast with a specialist marine guide from the Alderney Wildlife Trust is one of the most magical experiences you can have in Alderney.

£20 (adults), and £16 (children) for a 90-minute trip.

Cycle Around the Island

Alderney is made for cycle rides, whether you want to don all the lycra and zoom about or pootle along in your shorts and T shirt! Honestly, no one gives a hoot!

While you can take a bike on the ferry, renting one is far easier when you arrive from the lovely folks at Cycle and Surf. Grab a free map from the Visitor Centre and set off to explore.

Top tip:  Whether you want hills or a straight, even path, there are many options to choose if you want to cycle Alderney. 

Animal Attractions in Alderney

While Alderney has no large land mammals, there are many small mammals, including an incredible 14 species of bats! Hedgehogs (including rare blonde hedgehogs) are also resident across the island.

The waters around Alderney also host species of marine mammals, including a breeding colony of grey seals.

Add a hedgehog walk or an evening bat walk with the Alderney Wildlife Trust to your list of what to do in Alderney if you’re an animal lover. It’s one of the most unusual things to do on Alderney.

Food and Drink in Alderney

Alderney’s French-influenced cuisine features abundant seafood and shellfish. Local specialities include lobster and dressed crab; however, you’ll also find traditional British and international dishes. Alcohol is generally cheaper than in the UK.

Where to Eat

Alderney has excellent restaurants! You can enjoy anything from budget cafes to high-quality restaurants for dinner.

Try the Georgian House or Blonde Hedgehog , where you can expect the freshest and best local produce, or pop along to The Braye Chippy if you want sunset supper on the beach!

Special Events in Alderney

Milk-o-Punch Sunday (1st Sunday of May) 

Traditionally, islanders (or “lapins”) celebrated moving their cows out to their summer pastures at the beginning of May. They would take a bucket to the field, milk a cow, crack some seagull eggs (!!) into the milk, then add rum and nutmeg and drink a toast to the new season.

After the German occupation, the local pubs adopted the tradition of Milk-a-Punch. The only difference is that they no longer use seagull eggs 🙂

The Seafood Festival (First two weeks of May)

The “ Festival des Fruits de Mer ” celebrates all things seafood. If you love fresh seafood in beautiful surroundings, you must book early, as the island is busy for this festival.

Alderney Week – Alderney’s Biggest Carnival

Alderney Week starts with  Cavalcade Day  (a public holiday in Alderney) on the first Monday in August. The festivities culminate on Saturday night with a torchlight procession, fireworks and live music. It’s a bit mad, completely marvellous and suitable for every age.

Homecoming Day (December 15th)

Homecoming Day is a public holiday in Alderney to celebrate the day when islanders could return to Alderney after World War Two. Residents enjoy a day off, and schools and most businesses are closed.

Where to Stay in Alderney

There’s a fantastic amount of Alderney accommodation, from campsites with a sea view to charming B&Bs, luxurious cottages and lovely hotels. You could even stay in a Victorian fortress or the old Lighthouse Keeper’s cottage for something different. 

1. Georgian House

Located right in the heart of St Anne , the Georgian House is one of the most stylish Alderney hotels – perfect for solos and couples! The restaurant offers a mix of traditional British pub favourites and European style with a seafood influence, while the bar has wines from around the world and draught beers from the UK. Or maybe you’d prefer a cheeky cocktail?

“Fantastic hotel with some of the friendliest staff. Great food, location and atmosphere. Can’t wait to go back!”.

❤️ WHY YOU WILL LOVE THE GEORGIAN HOUSE

Start your day enjoying your English breakfast in the garden before exploring the island. The cobbled streets of St Anne are right on your doorstep, while beautiful Saye Beach and Braye Bay are just minutes away. Afternoon tea with local clotted cream and homemade scones is delicious.

⭐️ GEORGIAN HOUSE REVIEWS (8.9/10 stars)

The helpfulness of the team, nothing was too much. The location of the hotel is very central to everything. Overall feeling of being very welcome during our stay. —Sarah

Room was very comfortable, and the breakfast was excellent. The best thing though, was the attitude of the staff. Friendly, fantastic service. Nothing was too much trouble. —Mark

2. The Blonde Hedgehog

Located in the heart of St Anne on a pretty cobbled street, the Georgian House is a luxury boutique Alderney hotel – highly rated by couples and families! The restaurant offers an inspiring and daily-changing menu with much of the locally grown produce sourced from their own kitchen garden.

“spacious rooms amazing bathroom and superb terrace gardens”

❤️ WHY YOU WILL LOVE THE BLONDE HEDGEHOG

Check in after your free Airport pick up and discover your luxurious room and beautiful bathroom . Enjoy Alderney’s attractions before a candle-lit dinner or snuggling down in the private cinema , with a cosy blanket, snacks and a cocktail. Dogs are very welcome and treated like rock stars!

⭐️ BLONDE HEDGEHOG REVIEWS (9.1/10 stars)

What a fabulous hotel, the bathroom was amazingly spacious and luxurious. The bedroom was comfortable and well provisioned. The setting and grounds were well above expectations. The breakfast was varied and very filling and the evening meal we had was absolutely delicious. We will definitely be returning —Deborah

Just about everything about the hotel was top notch. Comfortable room, warm welcome, great food, friendly staff —Steve

Saye Beach Campsite is tucked away in the white sand dunes, moments away from Saye Beach, with clean, modern facilities, tents for hire and a short walk into town. It’s ideal for a peaceful stay.

How to Get to Alderney

The only direct flights to Alderney from the UK are from Southampton; however, you can also fly to the island from France or via Guernsey. ➡️ Find your flights to Alderney here .

Alternatively, there are regular ferries from St Peter Port in Guernsey to Alderney harbour in the summer months.

– The beaches are one of the most popular things to do in Alderney

Alderney FAQs

I hope I’ve covered everything you need to plan an amazing trip to Alderney, but here are a few FAQS to add a little more detail.

Does Alderney have its own language?

Alderney Patois (Aourgnais) is now a dead language – no longer spoken on the island. English is spoken everywhere.

What currency is used in Alderney?

The currency in Alderney is British pounds Sterling, so there is no need to worry about exchange rates if you’re visiting from the UK. Top Tip : Alderney is part of the Bailiwick of Guernsey, which issues its own notes and coins. These are worth the same as English, Scottish or Jersey notes – all of which you can also spend throughout the Channel Islands. You will need to spend your Channel Island notes and coins during your trip, though, as you won’t be able to use them in the UK.

Can you walk around Alderney?

Yes, Alderney is a small island with wonderful coastal trails to explore.

Can a UK citizen move to Alderney?

Yes, UK citizens can (and do) move to Alderney. Here is the best information to help if you are thinking of island life.

What is the main town in Alderney?

St Anne’s is the only town is Alderney.

What is the oldest pub in Alderney?

The Marais Hall is Alderney’s oldest pub. In addition to a cosy bar, the excellent restaurant is a real draw for locals and visitors.

Wrap Up – Things to do in Alderney Channel Islands

So there you have it! I hope this travel guide to Alderney has whetted your appetite to visit this beautiful little island!

While the stunning beaches usually top the favourite Alderney attractions lists (quite rightly), the relaxed lifestyle, beautiful and ever-changing coast, and easy cycling routes keep me coming back for more. And that legendary seafood!

Check out the Alderney Tourism Office for more information, or why not read about what to do in the other British Channel Islands ?

SAVE THIS TO PINTEREST FOR LATER

Coralie Thornton, the owner and author of Grey Globetrotters, has been a traveller for more than four decades. Today, she helps others experience the UK, Europe and bucketlist destinations with meticulously crafted guides and affordable luxury itineraries, Her passion for adventure has led her through over 40 countries, seeking cultural experiences, delicious foods, and hidden gems.

Similar Posts

All You Need To Know Before Visiting La Corbiere Lighthouse, Jersey

Grey Globetrotters contains affiliate links and is an Amazon Services LLC Associates Program member. If you make a purchase using one of…

Jersey or Guernsey: Which Island Is Best For You?

Currency in Jersey: Can You Use British Pounds On Your Visit?

Complete Guide to Visiting the Jersey War Tunnels

10 Best Things To Do At Seymour Tower Jersey: Tips From a Local

Discover 3 Amazing Jersey Castles You Will Love to Explore

• Unique Stays
• Family Friendly
• Self Catering
• Camping / Glamping
• All Accommodation
• Special Offers
• Arts and Culture
• Island Hopping
• Outdoor Activities
• St Peter Port
• Wild Swimming
• Al Fresco Dining
• Beach Cafes & Kiosks
• Local Produce
• Pubs & Bars
• Restaurants
• Ambassadors
• VisitGuernsey App
• Fly To Guernsey
• Sail To Guernsey
• Independent Travel
• Visiting by Cruise
• Buses and Coaches
• Inter Island Travel
• Tour Operators
• Useful Information

Travel Guide: Alderney

Alderney is the third largest Channel Island, only a short distance from Guernsey, and at just 3.5 by 1.5 miles, you’ll never be far away from the charm of its town centre, the tranquillity of its bays or the depth of its history.

Golden beaches, historical intrigue and unique island charm await you on Alderney. A bird watchers’ paradise, the island is renowned for its rich wildlife and boasts over 50 miles of scenic walking trails and over 300 species of bird. It is also home to the only working railway in the Channel Islands.

HOW TO GET TO ALDERNEY  

The easiest way to get to the most northerly Channel Island is a 15 minute flight from Guernsey to Alderney airport. Alternatively, you can catch the one hour ferry every day during peak season.

WHERE TO STAY ON ALDERNEY  

Despite its small size, Alderney still has plenty of holiday accommodation to choose from. From a converted fortress to beach camping, luxury independent hotels to friendly guest houses, there is something to suit everyone.

Saye Beach Campsite

Saye Beach Campsite is the place for camping in Alderney. Alongside a very high 4* standard bathroom block, dry room facility and an extensive play area for children, they also offer a well-stocked shop, picnic area, teas & coffees, ice creams and beach goods, as well as the perfect location to pitch your tent. Tents and sleeping bags are available for hire, or you can bring your own. It is situated in a superb location behind the sand dunes of Saye Bay , a lovely beach of white sand and beautifully clear sea.

Braye Beach Hotel

On the edge of Braye Beach , boasting stunning views across the bay and harbour, this AA rated 4* hotel offers a high standard of comfort and excellence. It has 27 bedrooms, some with balconies and sea views, which offer guests the perfect place to relax and unwind. The restaurant serves delicious, fresh local produce, from lobster and locally dived scallops, to rich Alderney cream and fresh seasonal vegetables flown in directly from the markets of France. The bar and beach-side decked terraces overlook the bay and serve coffee, lunch and afternoon snacks, whilst the Diver’s Inn next door is open for traditional pub food. The hotel also has a private cinema, comfortable lounges to relax in and complimentary wireless broadband access throughout the hotel. A favourite beachside stay for many visitors.

Villa Mondrian

Villa Mondrian is a new concept to Alderney, offering high quality, room-only accommodation. There are 4 en-suite bedrooms, each with individual access from the garden, which has a decking area with a table, chairs and sun loungers. The rooms can be made up with either twin beds or a super king size double bed. They offer a complimentary welcome pack to enjoy in the rooms. Each room is equipped with a mini fridge, toaster, crockery, cutlery and tea and coffee making facilities.

The Blonde Hedgehog  

Formed of three lovingly restored historical buildings, The Blonde Hedgehog has 9 stylish rooms and suites, and a charming 3-bedroom cottage perfect for families and larger groups. It is located in the heart of town, just a short walk from all the Island has to offer. The rooms are beautifully finished and you can always find a nice nook around the hotel to sit in with a coffee or glass of wine. The hotel also boasts a wonderful restaurant , serving seasonal farm-to-table dishes made from locally-grown ingredients, including produce from their own kitchen garden.

5 Little Street  

Built in the 17th century to accommodate animals, grain and people, 5 Little Street has been both a family home and a holiday house over the last 40 years. Little Street is one of the older streets in Alderney, and it is worth making your way there to see the other interesting buildings; The Old Barn , some random numbering at 8 1/2 Little Street, and the spooky steps outside some houses where it is said witches and evil spirits sit. At the top of the street there are some truly elegant windows, very typical to Alderney, and even a German bunker, with dragons.

Sandpiper Cottage  

Sandpiper is a traditional 3 story town cottage that has recently been refurbished to a very high standard throughout. The property offers a comfortable, cosy living space with a spectacular south facing garden and patio. Located on a quiet street just a few minutes walk from the centre of St Anne.

These are just a few of the accommodation options available on Alderney. For our full list, click here .

THINGS TO DO ON ALDERNEY

Do not let the small size of the Island fool you; Alderney has a wide range of activities for you to get involved in and fascinating things to see and do. Whether you're interested in history or wildlife, or want to explore hidden gems, there is something for everyone. 

Explore on Two Feet (or two wheels!)

Woodland, grassy commons, heaths, beaches and ponds are all connected by a network of over 50 miles of winding lanes and trails. Walking is one of the best ways to explore Alderney. You can walk through peaceful countryside, trek along dramatic coastlines and explore the quaint high street of St Anne with its local shops and eateries, all at your own pace. Or, hop on your bike for a family day out and enjoy more than ten miles of virtually traffic-free roads and miles of tracks and pathways. Whether you are looking for a few hours of cycling fun or to hire a bike for several days, both are possible from Cycle & Surf . They offer bikes for all the family, with tag-a-longs and child seats available for smaller children. Electric bikes and tandems are also available.

Wildlife Watching

Alderney is the perfect playground for wildlife lovers. It is a seasonal hotspot for sea and wetland bird breeds, dolphins, bats and insects thanks to its diverse habitats, ranging from coastal grassland to subtidal kelp forests. Puffins arrive in late March as temporary visitors to rear their young, and leave in early August . Their short stay on the Islet of Burhou is their only time on land during the year, the rest of which is spent out at sea. Boat tours run from April to October, if you want to see these beautiful creatures up close. The gannet colonies of Les Etacs and Ortac account for 2% of the world’s gannet population, a truly spectacular sight which can be seen during a boat or walking tour. Finally, look out for the rare blonde hedgehog, which can be found foraging soon after sunset from spring to autumn.

Discover the Island’s History

Head to the award-winning Alderney Museum and take in all of the fascinating displays, including an Elizabethan shipwreck, one of the most important marine archaeological finds in the British Isles. You can also pay a visit to Mannez Lighthouse , the famous Bayeux Tapestry Finale at the library , and the local Bell Tower . This small Island is rich in history, and there is so much to discover.

Take a Train Ride 

The island also has the only working railway in the Channel Islands, dating back to the 19th century. It’s a fun way to explore the island for both train enthusiasts and families alike.

Alderney Golf Club  

A scenic course on Alderney. This is a coastal course with 9 holes, each with two tees. Visitors are always very welcome, and tailored packages of golf and catering can be put together to meet your individual needs.

Take a Boat Trip

Explore Alderney's wonderful coastline from the best vantage point, the sea. Enjoy a boat tour and discover wildlife, forts, stunning views and more. The Alderney Wildlife Trust offers seabird and fortification tours, seal tours and round Island Tours. Both Avante II and Lady Maris also offer round Island tours. A boat tour is the perfect way to learn more about the Island from a completely different vantage point.

WHERE TO EAT ON ALDERNEY

From home-grown produce and rich dairy products, to seafood straight from the island’s fresh waters, there is an abundance of delicious food on Alderney, much of it with a French influence. With an array of wildflowers, it is also a haven for bees to thrive, so don’t leave without trying the sweetness of Alderney Honey. Juicy crab, lobster, Kiln Farm beef and free range pork can all be found at various cafés, restaurants and pubs. Here are just a few available options:

The Georgian House

The Georgian House creates fabulous food, with an abundance of superb local produce right on their doorstep. They aim to make the most of their surroundings, and believe in sourcing local and sustainable produce wherever possible. Menus are contemporary, with a mix of traditional British pub food and European style seafood influences. It offers a cosy pub, a restaurant, a secluded garden with an outside bar, as well as 4 charming en-suite bedrooms .

Alderney's only Thai restaurant is a favourite with locals. All dishes are made fresh with the finest ingredients, featuring the sensational flavours of Thailand. From pad thai to green curry, Mai Thai offers all your favourite Thai dishes, alongside plenty you may not have tried before. Take-away is available and the restaurant is also open for coffee and has a bar, which is well-known for its cocktails.

Nellie Gray’s  

Opened in 1996 by Mr Matin Miah, who still runs the restaurant, the food is tasty and delicious and the staff are friendly. Experience the ever popular Curries, Tandoori, and Balti Dishes. Takeaway is also available.

Jack’s Brasserie 

Jack's Brasserie enjoys an enviable location at the bottom of Victoria Street, and boasts a fabulous terrace area. Inside, the décor and furnishings are modern, giving a light and airy atmosphere. Whether you're looking for a classic breakfast or a light al fresco lunch with a chilled glass of wine, Jack's is perfect, offering café culture and dining in the heart of St Anne.

The Moorings

The Moorings is the go-to venue for families in Alderney who are looking for a place where the kids can let off steam and the adults can relax. Situated alongside Braye Beach, they serve burgers, pizzas, seafood and salads, all home-made by the chef. There are often bands playing throughout the season and there is a large terrace to enjoy.

Cantina Number 6  

Cantina Number 6 has a relaxed and chilled atmosphere with amazing views over Braye Bay. Open for brunch, lunch or dinner, their menu is unique. Along with fabulous tapas, handmade pastas and delicious local food, they also have daily specials on offer at lunchtime and in the evening, as well as an array of cocktails, beers, wines and more.

The Braye Beach Brasserie  

The Braye Beach Brasserie and the Braye Beach Bar and Terrace are part of the ideally located Braye Beach Hotel. The main brasserie restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, offering casual dining at a high standard, with classical seaside dishes such as tempura battered fish and chips or moules and in season, fresh seafood straight from the nearby fisherman's port. Alternatively, the Beach Bar and Terrace has stunning views over Braye Beach and beyond and is just the place for a morning coffee, a light lunch, afternoon cream tea or an early evening drink.

Bumps Bistro

Tucked away behind the top of Victoria Street, with a lovely enclosed garden, Bumps is open for lunch, dinner, drinks and coffee. Owner and chef, Eddie, offers a daily selection of dishes made with freshly cooked, local produce, from tapas, fish of the day and steak, to lemon tart and sticky toffee pudding. On Sundays, there is a traditional roast.

An original wine vault turned into an up-tempo steakhouse and cocktail bar, The Vaults is very different from anywhere else in Alderney, serving delicious steaks, an eclectic range of wines and a great range of cocktails.

In the heart of St Anne, at the top of Victoria Street, you’ll find Le Pesked. Authentic, rustic and romantic, it is the only French restaurant on Alderney, serving delicious, freshly cooked meals by Brittany chef and owner, David. The menu includes a wide choice of dishes prepared from the finest locally sourced ingredients, featuring freshly caught fish and seafood, along with a tempting array of signature dishes, including the popular Crêpe Suzette. 

Braye Chippy

One of Alderney’s favourites, Braye Chippy is adjacent to the inner harbour. With a wide selection, the Braye Chippy is open in the evenings all year round. They also run special Burger fests and popular Moules and Frites, Bean jar and Chilli Con Carne deal nights. Takeaway is available and, if you want a glass of wine, you are welcome to bring your own bottle to the restaurant.

These are just a few of the fantastic dining options available on Alderney. For our full list of restaurants, bistros, pubs and cafes, click here .

FIVE FACTS ABOUT ALDERNEY

1. An unusual animal that inhabits Alderney is the blonde hedgehog, which is extremely rare elsewhere in Europe. Rumour has it that the uniquely coloured creature arrived on the island hidden inside a Harrods shopping bag!

2. Alderney’s own airport is the smallest in the Channel Islands, and even features a box of unfinished knitting to help you pass the time while waiting for your flight!

3. During the Second World War, the whole of Alderney’s population was evacuated to mainland Britain. The Germans established four camps on the island, housing as many as 4,000 forced labourers at one point, most of whom were Russian prisoners.

4. A history like no other, Alderney has its own distinct timeline of events incorporating Roman, Napoleonic and German influences and architecture. In addition to Neolithic remains and the Roman construction of ‘The Nunnery’ at Longis Bay, there is an enormous breakwater and numerous forts and batteries, all built to defend Alderney against a potential French attack. During WWII, German occupying forces constructed a number of bunkers and defences that can still be visited today.

5. Naming a few of her own ‘favourite things’, Oscar winning actress, Julie Andrews, listed Alderney as her favourite place. She lived on the island with her husband, Tony Walton, when expecting her first daughter. She said: "I cherish every hour there. In my wallet I carry a colour snapshot of the cottage and stare at it like a fool when I yearn to steal away and can't. Alderney is my paradise. When there is rain in England, you can count on the sun in Alderney. Spring arrives two weeks earlier, with windblown meadows of maroon and yellow tulips, blue irises and daffodils dancing on the hills."

Keep reading…

Exclusive Offers

Offers, just for you. Island Insider is our club, and the only place you’ll get exclusive offers for the best accommodation and travel packages for your visit to the Islands of Guernsey. Sign up now to start your journey and find your perfect escape.

• Destinations

48 hours in Alderney

• 12 minute read

• September 23, 2020

From a Roman fort to uncrowded beaches, sense the magic in Alderney, a warm, peaceful and relaxing escape in the Channel Islands, where you can fully unwind. Breathe, relax, and enjoy “the Alderney feeling”.

Don’t go to Alderney. You won’t like it. In fact, don’t even read my article, and I hope you have a great staycation elsewhere on the British Isles ! I wish I could keep this up, but of course, I’m joking. The truth is, as anyone who follows me on Instagram will know, I adored my weekend break in Alderney. In fact I enjoyed it so much that I feel hesitant in sharing my experience of this charming island, for fear that word will get out, and that one day the island might change.

Alderney is the third-largest of the Channel Islands, behind Jersey and Guernsey , located 8 miles from France, and 60 miles from the UK. One of the less-visited Islands, Alderney is still refreshingly uncommercialised – but with modern luxuries, beautiful beaches and sumptuous accommodation – offering a unique holiday experience to, in my opinion, rival any of the other more popular islands.

As the closest of the Channel Islands to the south coast of Great Britain Aurigny Air Services offers direct flights from Southampton in just 40 minutes. Ideal for me, living just a 10-minute drive from Southampton Airport , and made getting to the island a breeze. Flights from other airports require a transfer in the small, friendly airport on Guernsey, so a little more complicated, maybe, but ultimately still worth it to experience this hidden gem.

Alderney’s simple way of life and breathtaking scenery provides the space to reflect and feel blissfully rejuvenated – complete escapism from our modern world. There are no crowds, no queues, and no traffic – just fresh air, incredible wildlife, an abundance of flora and fauna, and around 50 miles of footpaths and ancient trails to explore. The historic town of St Anne, intriguing Roman forts and Victorian defences are fascinating – and the island naturally lends itself to an outdoor lifestyle, kayaking, hiking, cycling, swimming.

You don’t just visit Alderney – you feel a connection with the island. The unspoilt, wild landscape, magnificent coastal views and beautiful beaches dotted around the 10-mile perimeter are utterly enchanting. You can’t help but relax and completely unwind as you marvel over the architecture, or investigate the many historic forts.

Every day on Alderney is an adventure – even for the locals. Some who had lived there for years, told us they still find hidden gems (even bays!) they never knew existed. They are living in paradise – and so are their children. Alderney has the only school in the British Isles where children take their swimming lessons in the sea!

There’s a family-run farm providing the entire island with delightful local produce, a cinema, starry skies, various events running throughout the year – and that’s not to mention blonde-haired hedgehogs and blue letterboxes – I mean what more could you want?

It’s truly unique – and the community spirit is unparalleled. The magic touched me with, as they describe it, “The Alderney Feeling”.

Just a 5-10-minute transfer from the airport took us to our hotel (you can walk it in around 20 minutes), The Victoria , conveniently located at the bottom of Victoria Street, in the ‘capital’, Saint Anne. It’s a perfect location, close to all the action and within easy reach of the coastline and main sites of the island.

Our lovely host, Ally couldn’t have made us feel any more welcome, and inside was beautifully light and airy, with coastal-themed interiors, home-from-home touches and contemporary charm. Sister-hotel, The Georgian (on the same street opposite The Victoria ) looked every bit as attractive and inviting, and is another excellent holiday option.

Close by our hotel was Cycle & Surf , the shop where we had pre-booked our electric bikes. Andrew, who runs the shop with his wife Kathy, was fabulous. They have turned this essential hire shop into an island gem, with the latest top-of-the-range electric bikes, and a range of designer and casual wear – all very reasonably priced. I walked in to see a floaty beach dress, jumper and lace t-shirt I couldn’t resist. It was time for lunch. We strolled up along the cobbled street to Le pesked , the only French restaurant on Alderney, and we were in luck. The Alderney Food and Drink Festival had started, and, as a lunchtime special, the fabulous Brittany chef David Ollivrin was serving up five dishes for two, for just £20. The food, made from local produce, was delicious. My personal favourites included the Alderney Crab Spring Roll in plum sauce, Moules and Marinated Pork Brochette.

Re-fuelled, we met at the bottom of Victoria Street for our Round-the-Island tour with Alderney Tours , led by John Horton, the Island Bird Observatory Warden (as seen on BBC Countryfile and CH4 Little British Islands). This two-hour minibus tour is the perfect introduction, offering the opportunity to learn about the geography, history and wildlife, and to get your bearings of where everything is, before heading out on your self-guided explorations.

John is the perfect tour guide, professional, knowledgeable – and with a great sense of humour. But, like many of the Islanders we met, it’s not his only day-job. John’s passion for birds and wildlife is what led him to take a career break as a Metropolitan Police Officer to establish the Channel Isles first accredited bird observatory – where numbers and variety of birds soon far exceeded expectation. Just a couple of weeks into the job, John observed a group of 16 Ring Ouzels coming to rest on the fourth green of the golf course, adjacent to the observatory. He thought: “This is going to be awesome!” 

And it has been an enormous success. One of John’s first bird-ringing sessions resulting in the recording of over 40 Firecrests! Alderney has established itself as an important place for migrating birds – one of the most exciting islands in Britain for seeing and monitoring birds, both in migratory transit and in seeking undisturbed nesting sites. 

We stood at the headquarters of the Alderney Bird Observatory, based in ‘The Nunnery’ – the best-preserved small Roman fort in Britain. “With such huge historical importance, the plan is to develop this into a publically-accessible heritage site” John explained as we admired the surviving walls of this impressive fort.

John lives at the lighthouse, just a short walk from ‘The Nunnery’, juggling his roles as tour guide and bird warden. He seemed equally passionate about both, telling the group no two days are the same.

John dropped us back at Cycle & Surf, where our electric bikes were waiting – ready to take us back up Victoria Street to meet another of the locals.

General Manager, Tracey Farquhar-Beck had offered to give us a hard-hat tour of new luxury hotel ‘The Blonde Hedgehog’ (think Soho House and The Pig Hotels) opening this September. Encircled by the quiet cobblestoned streets of Saint Anne, the hotel is composed of three buildings, The Blonde Hedgehog, Clarence House (next door), and The Corner House (opposite). 

Tracey told us the back story. Owner Julie-Anne, business entrepreneur and founder of charity Zamcog, is opening her first hotel – along with the restaurant and a new butcher’s shop. Currently living in London, she will soon be relocating from London to live in Alderney and personally manage her island ventures. An investment welcomed by the locals – supportive of Julie-Anne and excited for the increased tourism more luxury hospitality on the island might bring.   

We had some time to relax back at The Victoria, reflect on our day – and share our enthusiasm for the special place we felt so fortunate to have discovered, before heading out for dinner over the road at The Georgian .

The ground-floor of The Georgian offers a great option for a pre-dinner drink, or relaxed dining, with the cosy warmth of a traditional pub, or head upstairs, as we did, to enjoy the refinement of The Orangery, with more of a fine-dining feel, ambient music, candles and elegantly dressed tables. 

In contrast to the bar, The Orangery restaurant is light, airy and contemporary, with beautiful, modern landscape paintings adding vibrant colours to the white walls. The windows slide open to the full width of the building – showcasing a panorama of mature island trees in their immaculate Georgian terraced garden full of pretty wallflowers and hanging baskets. 

We ordered from their 2 Mile Menu, as the name suggests all ingredients (very) locally sourced. Our alfresco-style dining was made complete with a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc, tomato bruschetta, freshly caught Alderney scallops, and Kiln Farm Sirloin Steak with Georgian House melted butter. If only there had been time for dessert – we were booked on the Bat & Hedgehog walk with the Alderney Wildlife Trust – it would have been the Speculoos Cheesecake, or possibly the Affogato.

Meeting point was at the Wildlife Trust shop, just a few doors up from The Georgian. Our expert guide, Roland Gauvain, then showed us how to use our bat detectors to search out bats as we wandered up Victoria Street and through the pretty Parish Church of Saint Anne. We find Pipistrelles – “just 4cm long but with a wingspan of 22cm” Roland explained. He was extremely knowledgeable about the life of bats, how they live, and their feeding cycles, I was surprised to learn they can eat up to 3000 midges in one night!

As darkness fell, we began our search for Alderney’s famous blondes. With no foxes, badgers, stoats or weasels on the island to worry about, Alderney’s rare blonde-haired hedgehogs thrive. With a population of around 600, they have dominated their brown equivalents. They are thought to originate from only a handful of pairs, brought to the island as pets in the 1960s – and (if you believe the locals) released from a Harrods bag. We spotted a few snuffling about, the first all curled up, just a ball of blonde spines! 

Others had their beautiful pink snouts on show – each one uniquely cute and charming. Some quietly scuttled away, while others didn’t seem too fussed about us at all. The islanders treat them like little kings (and queens) feeding them when they come to their gardens – perhaps one of the reasons they are doing so well. 

There are not many people who know more about our adorable British tiggywinkles than the Alderney Wildlife Trust – the island’s only organisation dedicated to the protection of the natural environment and local wildlife. Take part in one of their activities, walks or tours and your money will be put towards funding many essential projects in conserving their island.

Breakfast at The Victorian is excellent. Home prepared by Ally, made with local produce fresh from the fisherman or farm-to-fork and served in the pretty dining room.

Choose from healthy smoothies, continental, porridge, pancakes, a full Victorian House breakfast – or pre-order for overnight oats, soaked apples, or (as I did) a grilled kipper with a poached egg.

Alderney is about self-adventure, and, as Andrew from Cycle & Surf described it, “There’s nothing to do on Alderney, but there just isn’t enough time to do it all”. While Alderney might not have a tourism brochure packed with must-visit attractions and gift shops for its visitors, there was so much to go and see – to investigate – to explore. You could stay for weeks, months, years and still find somewhere new and exciting to spend a lazy day.

The Victoria provided us with a delicious packed lunch, picnic-style, and off we went on our bikes – in search of our own slice of this Alderney magic. We had a map, but one of the things I liked best about Alderney was that we didn’t need it. The enjoyment is in following the paths and discovering places as you go. It’s easy to lose yourself in the natural beauty, enjoying the moment, and seeing where the day takes you. And with the coastline of never-ending stretches of white-gold beaches, never too far out of sight, you can always get back on track, if needed.

Just 10 minutes into our journey and we came across a Blue Plaque – at the home where John Arlott, English journalist, author and famous cricket commentator for the BBC’s Test Match Special lived.

There are several more Blue Plaques dotted across the island – you can even pick up a leaflet showing the Blue Plaque Trail. Other distinguished people who were born or lived in Alderney include John Wesley, Founder of Methodism; TH ‘Tim’ White, a writer best known for publishing “The Sword in the Stone” and author Elisabeth Beresford, famous for creating The ‘Wombles’.

I wonder if the island’s adorable blonde hedgehogs could have inspired Elisabeth’s furry, long-nosed burrowing creatures (who lived peacefully under the parkland of Wimbledon Common, emerging secretly to clean up and repurpose the rubbish left behind by humans). After passing the cute 18 hole golf course, Alderney’s colourful puffin statue, and the ‘Nunnery’, we arrived at Mannez Lighthouse, where if you are visiting May to September tours are available every Sunday.

Overlooking Fort Les Hommeaux Florains, with the sun shining and not a single soul in sight, we munched our way through our fresh crab sandwiches. The views were spectacular – easily one of the most peaceful picnics, just us and the birds, the gentle swashing of the waves below – one of the many highlights.

The north-east side of the island was my personal favourite, especially the beaches of Corblets Bay and Saye Bay. We swam at Saye Beach, named as one of Countryfile’s Beaches of the Year, and met some of the locals who were brilliant fun – welcoming us whole-heartedly into their self-formed ‘Alderney Beach Swimming Club!’

Sadly, it was time to head back as we had a boat tour booked, especially to see the puffins and the gannets. We got to the pontoon harbour meeting point where Roland from The Wildlife Trust, and the rest of our group, were gathering.

The waters were a little choppy, but arriving at the isle of Burhou and seeing the puffins, one of the most iconic birds resident in the Channel Islands, made it all worth it. They live here from late March until early August, the only time they spend on land, until heading back to the sea for the rest of the year, out in the Atlantic. These colourful seabirds are instantly recognisable by their bright beaks. Sadly, puffins are now red-listed and classified as a vulnerable species. The Alderney Wildlife Trust monitor the population and help protect them from threats.

Next stop was Gannet Rocks (Les Etacs), home to almost 6000 pairs of Britain’s largest seabird! And we didn’t need the binoculars here to watch them swooping and diving from the shore, we were close enough to smell them, we could almost touch them – and what a display! Incredible, another holiday highlight for me. We chatted to the skipper, Bugsy, who we had earlier encountered in Victoria Street. As he is also the island’s resident fishmonger, I thanked him for my breakfast kipper!

We finished a perfect day with dinner at Cantina Number 6, Braye Street. A cheerful restaurant with a brilliant blue front door and painted window frames, set against cream brickwork, desert-style plant pots and rustic wooden sign. The Latin American vibe continued inside, guitars, retro numberplates and colourfully painted oars mounted on the wall, a trendy cocktail bar made from old tea box shipping containers, mosaic tiles, and ornate cushions. Earn hipster points by ordering a ‘Perfect Storm’ – their version of a ‘Dark and Stormy’ but with a special secret ingredient! From the kitchen, I enjoyed some fresh local oysters, Caribbean Fish Feast – polished off with a strawberry shortbread sundae. True to their garden-kitchen ethos, our waitress came in from the terrace door with some fresh mint leaves in her hand – a group of locals were enjoying her Mojitos. We were feeling the vibe here so, following a recommendation from our waitress, sipped on Espresso Martinis, outside on the balcony overlooking Braye Beach.

Alderney is an ideal destination for a digital detox, story-book-style adventure, relaxing beach holiday, or all three rolled into one. With spectacular sunsets, sunrises, wildlife and stargazing , romantic moments are never too far away. It’s idyllic – and I found myself completely captivated by its charm. I discovered “the Alderney Feeling”, and I know I will return.

MAKE IT EXTRA SPECIAL

Alderney is an area unpolluted by artificial light and therefore shows off the night sky to its best advantage. In the evening Fort Tourgis is the recommended place to go and is easily accessible for views of the Milky Way and when shooting stars are often nightly events. With the island having a milder than average climate, it’s easy to grab a blanket and enjoy a few hours stargazing on this beautiful island. 

Afternoon Tea at Braye Beach Hotel

Braye Beach Hotel is (currently) the only 4* hotel on Alderney, situated directly on Braye Beach – one of the best bays on the island. Non-guests are also welcome to enjoy their bar, restaurant and terrace area for morning coffee, a light lunch or early evening drink. For a romantic afternoon enjoy a sumptuous champagne afternoon tea in their signature Seaview Restaurant, to include freshly made salmon and prawn sandwiches, scones, cakes and chocolate delicacies.

► brayebeach.com

Drink coffee in Jack’s Brasserie

A trendy stone brick coffee shop located on Victoria Street – directly opposite The Victoria. Recently taken over by Richard, formerly from the Braye Beach Hotel. He is a great character, full-of-life – and knows how to make an excellent coffee. Sit outside and relax in the sunshine. Also open for breakfast and lunch, or a cold beer and wine.

► visitalderney.com/see-do/eat-drink/jacks-brasserie/

Getting there →

Fly in less than 1 hour from Southampton airport by sea in just over an hour from Guernsey or Normandy ► visitalderney.com

* Lead image: Alderney_Braye beach, scenery by Jake Woodnutt

In this article:

Post written by: Jessica Way

Subscribe to the newsletter.

Get your travel inspiration here! Sign up for the British Travel Journal newsletter.

• March 13, 2020

Destinations 48 hours in the Roseland Peninsula

• April 27, 2020

Food & Drink Interview with Tom Booton Head Chef at The Dorchester

You may also like.

Herm: The Tiny Island with a Big Spirit

• 9 minute read

Discover the vibrant Cornish town of Falmouth

• Sponsored Content

Green Travel along the Great West Way

• 6 minute read

• Food & Drink

A Taste of Rutland

• 7 minute read

Our Latest Instagram Posts

@britishtraveljournal

Alderney States unveil plans for major redevelopment of Alderney's Braye Harbour

• States of Alderney
• Development
• Thursday 11 April 2024 at 4:29pm

Plans for the redevelopment of Alderney's Braye Harbour have been revealed by the States.

The long-term ambition is to transform the area over the next ten to 15 years, building new leisure and tourism facilities, as well as retail and hospitality venues.

It is proposed that the development will be paid for through public and private investment.

This comes after several workshops and meetings with people who live or work in the area.

Chair of the General Services Committee (GSC), Lin Maurice, said: "It provides us with a clear vision of what the area could look like in the future and gives us greater clarity on how to unlock those opportunities to improve the prosperity of the island.

"It is respectful of the area's character and the special uniqueness of Alderney will not be compromised in any proposed development."

Islanders will be able to ask politicians questions at a public drop-in session in the Island Hall between 10am and 1pm on Saturday 27 April.

The full plans can be viewed here .

Want a quick and expert briefing on the biggest news stories? Listen to our latest podcasts to find out What You Need To Know...