walk this way tour manila

Walk this way Manila, The Phillipines

If the walls of Manila’s famous Intramuros could talk, Uwern Jong would listen. On a tour through the area, he learns about the Filippino capital’s psyche.

I grew up with Imelda Marcos. Well, not literally – but in my young, gay, Asian eyes she was legendary. It wasn’t until I was older that I understood it was the brutality and corruption of the Marcos regime that afforded her the luxury to own so many material things. I still remember that day in 1986 when the rebels of the People’s Power Revolution stormed the Presidential Palace – yes, the revolution was televised – and the Marcos family fled to Hawaii. In exile, an American reporter asked her what she had to hide, to which the nonchalant Imelda replied, “They went into my closets looking for skeletons, but all they found were shoes, beautiful shoes.” She was right, they did – all 1,200 pairs.

So you won’t be surprised that a Manila-based performance artist and tour guide, one Carlos Celdran, caught my eye. Carlos is somewhat of a celebrity in Manila circles, for his experiential and hilarious ‘Living la Vida Imelda!’ walking tour of the modernist Cultural Center of the Philippines, charting the rise and fall of the infamous First Lady – the irony being that the Cultural Center, commissioned by Imelda, is now a complex for the people, despite once representing all that was elitist about the powerful of the time.

Celdran is also a sexual health activist, a big challenge in this Catholic country. In 2010, he marched into mass at the Manila Cathedral, dressed as José Rizal, the Filipino writer and national hero (whose propaganda calling for reforms under Spanish colonialism sparked a rebellion that led to his execution) and stood at the altar to protest the Church’s involvement in democracy.

Carlos runs his Walk this Way tours almost daily, with a cult following for his ‘If These Walls Could Talk’ tour of Manila’s most famous landmark, the Intramuros.

We met at Fort Santiago. I was a sweaty mess from running – late from having being stuck in traffic. I couldn’t see Carlos at the meeting point, just a group of loitering tourists. I asked a security guard if I had missed the tour and he replied simply by pointing his lower lip in the direction of the group (spend any time with Filipinos and you’ll learn the nuances of this secret, lip pouting language). But still, no Carlos. Then out of nowhere, a larger than life character appeared, dressed in the Spanish-colonial “Illustrado” and a bowler hat, apologising for his tardiness on account of the manic Manila traffic. He cranked up an old cassette-tape player and sang along to a crackling version of the Filipino national anthem.

“We don’t have any Wonders of the World like Angkor Wat. All there was here were some highly flammable bamboo and volcanoes.” He pointed at me, identifying my Malaysian roots – the site of the Intramuros before the Spanish arrived was known as “Maynilad”, ruled by Malayan chieftains. Carlos took the group back in history in an amazing way – offering a unique perspective, from the beginnings of Manila and how the Intramuros came to be, to the zenith of Spanish colonisation in the country.

This story first appeared in The Modern Manila Issue , available in print and digital. Subscribe today or purchase a back copy via our online shop .

We walked to a tunnel, to a soundtrack of American wartime tunes. Once inside, Carlos reappeared following a rapid costume change – one of several theatrical changes he made on the tour to reflect different eras. With audio-visual aids, he told the harrowing story of how Manila was bombed at the end of WWII – not by the Japanese, but actually, by the Americans – the city was completely reduced to rubble, killing its Japanese occupiers as well as over 100,000 Filipino civilians – collateral damage.

Departing Fort Santiago, we board a “kalesa” (horse-drawn carriage) towards San Augustin Church, passing the ruins of the St. Ignatius Church and the former Ateneo Municipal de Manila on the way. I felt sad thinking about this once-majestic place being razed to the ground but was swiftly reminded that it was also quite oppressive. Catholicism in the region was institutionalised here – in its Cathedral, churches, convents and church-run schools – by a succession of religious orders. Only the Spanish were protected by the walls; converted Christian natives and the migrant Chinese were allowed in but were not allowed to live there.

In our three hours together, there were several serious moments like this – digs at the past, often (but not always) shrouded in Carlos’ carnivalesque delivery. He’s a real storyteller, weaving together history, intrigue and folklore into engaging, entertaining anecdotes – but listen carefully and you’ll pick up on his personal concerns – from being mindful of history but needing to leapfrog into the 21st Century, to how religion affects politics and democracy in the Philippines. The tour is also interactive – he asks a lot of questions of the crowd, often rhetorical – in a way that challenges our thinking about what being descended from the people of the Intramuros actually means. We were asked to consider whether we felt that it was right to sacrifice a few basic elements of democracy – human rights, free speech – for the sake of peace. He was also particularly interested in how Filipinos were represented abroad.

Don’t get me wrong, this is unequivocally a light-hearted, fun, tourist walk, but the time I spent with Carlos gave me a superb insight into Manila’s personality and psyche – a history lesson as you would expect, but also a snapshot of the city through his eyes – a Manila he clearly loves, but a place where he feels change needs inciting. I think of Carlos as a modern-day José Rizal; through his performance and interactions with the people on his tours, he is going some distance to comment and invoke debate about the status quo and the political engine of the Philippines.

As we walk away from San Augustin towards our last stop, the Casa Manila – an imposing stone and wood structure that’s an identical copy of a 19th Century San Nicolas house – my story comes full circle. The reconstruction of this lavish building was, after all, ordered by Imelda Marcos herself.

To find out more about Walk this Way Tours, visit www.celdrantours.blogspot.co.uk .

Photography by Martin Perry

Get out there

… follow Carlos Celdran’s adventures – from walking tours to one-man-shows, he is quite the celebrity in Manila’s performing arts scene.

… opt for a “kalesa” ride. You may think it’s a little touristy, but they’re actually authentic and were the limousines of the day.

… account for Manila’s infernal traffic. It takes far longer than you think to get anywhere, so plan in plenty of waiting time.

Don’t…

… take a tour of Intramuros from a tout at the site – Carlos aside, there are many other reputable, entertaining and educational guides.

… forget that you’ll be out and about – pack water and sunscreen. If you’re sensitive, avoid being out at noon.

… miss out on bringing your camera. This is the most Instagrammable place in all of Manila and we’d even recommend packing a wide-angle lens and a DSLR – if you have one.

At OutThere, we believe in boundless travel . But we understand that some destinations can pose challenges to travellers that complicate visiting them. We advise all visitors to inform themselves about local legislation and customs, and to work with a trusted travel provider in order to ensure a safe and pleasant holiday.

Join us on an adventure

Subscribe to our newsletter to enjoy early access to the latest news, luxury hotel reviews and inspiring travel tales, delivered straight to your inbox.

A confirmation email has been sent to your inbox. Welcome to the club!

You can unsubscribe at any time. Read our privacy policy  here .

Walk This Way

• See all photos

Similar Experiences

Most Recent: Reviews ordered by most recent publish date in descending order.

Detailed Reviews: Reviews ordered by recency and descriptiveness of user-identified themes such as waiting time, length of visit, general tips, and location information.

Walk This Way - All You Need to Know BEFORE You Go (2024) - Tripadvisor

Walk This Way

• See all photos

Similar Experiences

Most Recent: Reviews ordered by most recent publish date in descending order.

Detailed Reviews: Reviews ordered by recency and descriptiveness of user-identified themes such as waiting time, length of visit, general tips, and location information.

Walk This Way - All You Need to Know BEFORE You Go (2024)

Walk This Way

• See all photos

Similar Experiences

Most Recent: Reviews ordered by most recent publish date in descending order.

Detailed Reviews: Reviews ordered by recency and descriptiveness of user-identified themes such as waiting time, length of visit, general tips, and location information.

Walk This Way - All You Need to Know BEFORE You Go (2024)

• Car Rentals
• Airport Transfers
• Attractions & Tours
• Bundle & Save
• Destinations
• Trip.com Rewards

Walk This Way

Explore near Walk This Way: Where to Stay, Eat, and Visit

Walk this way reviews: insider insights and visitor experiences.

Interesting tour, but not enjoyable

I joined the Intramuros tour. It was less of a tour but more of a comic show. It was not meant for walking or sightseeing. Most of the tour was in a small area near Fort Santiago and a small room in t...

Awesome, refreshing overview of Philippino history in beautiful colonial setting

Wonderful performance, extremely informative in the perfect setting of well maintained colonial Manila. Learned a lot about Philippino history in just 3 hours, Carlos doesn't shy away from constructiv...

overrated, overacting and overpriced

I heard alot of good reviews about the ‘walk this way’ tour and was really excited to check it out for our vacation to manila. Unfortunately, I think it’s overrated, overacting and over priced (for wh...

Not worth it

To go through 2.5hrs of Manila traffic to be on-time for a 430pm tour and realized that the showman did not show up until 30minutes later tells me that he doesn’t respect people’s time and schedule. C...

STOP YELLING

Too much shouting which made the tour not enjoyable. Information presented was filled with personal feelings.

You Might Also Like

Casa Manila

Enchanted Kingdom

Zoobic Safari

Nearby attractions, popular types of attractions in manila, popular restaurants in manila, popular destinations, recommended attractions at popular destinations, trending travelogues, popular trip moments, popular travel types, more things to do in manila.

• Customer Support
• Service Guarantee
• More Service Info
• Website Feedback
• About Trip.com
• Terms & Conditions
• Privacy Statement
• About Trip.com Group

Other Services

• Investor Relations
• Affiliate Program
• List My Property
• Become a Supplier

Walk This Way

The schedule of Carlos Celdran's walking tours of Manila.

Monday, May 23, 2016

Tour dates tour rates.

Walk This Way

• See all photos

Similar Experiences

Most Recent: Reviews ordered by most recent publish date in descending order.

Detailed Reviews: Reviews ordered by recency and descriptiveness of user-identified themes such as waiting time, length of visit, general tips, and location information.

WALK THIS WAY: All You Need to Know BEFORE You Go (with Photos)

THE 10 BEST Manila Walking Tours

Walking tours in manila.

• Walking Tours
• Historical & Heritage Tours
• Cultural Tours
• Up to 1 hour
• 1 to 4 hours
• 4 hours to 1 day
• 5.0 of 5 bubbles
• 4.0 of 5 bubbles & up
• 3.0 of 5 bubbles & up
• 2.0 of 5 bubbles & up
• Likely to Sell Out
• The ranking of tours, activities, and experiences available on Tripadvisor is determined by several factors including the revenue generated by Tripadvisor from these bookings, the frequency of user clicks, and the volume and quality of customer reviews. Occasionally, newly listed offerings may be prioritized and appear higher in the list. The specific placement of these new listings may vary.

1. Spectacular Manila to Tagaytay: Full-Day Sightseeing Tour

2. Discover Tagaytay's Countryside: Half-Day Sightseeing Tour

3. Manila City Tour: Intramuros by Bike & Food Tasting in Chinatown

4. Half-Day Manila City Tour

5. Intramuros: History of Old Manila | Manila Walking Tours

6. Intramuros: History of Old Manila | Manila Walking Tours with Transportation

7. Day hike to Mount Daraitan with Tinipak River 2024

8. Discover Real MANILA (PhotoTour)

9. Manila Chinatown Walk, Eat and Drink Experience

10. Following the Footsteps of Anthony Bourdain

11. Explore Chinatown in Manila with Mari

12. Introduction to Philippine History

13. Hidden Gems of Manila with Mari

14. Day Hike Mt. Batulao 811 meters with transfers from Manila** 2024

15. Manila Social and Political Walk Tour

16. Manila's Culinary Expedition: The Ultimate Food and Market Tour

17. Manila by Night: Discovering City Highlights with Intramuros

18. Manila's Night Market Tour with Venus

19. Nagpatong Rock Day hike + Tungtong Falls(with transfers**) 2023

20. Small-Group Weekend Hiking Tour to Banaue-Ifugao from Manila

21. 1.5-Hour Express Bike Tour in Intramuros (tour using a bamboo bicycle!)

22. Manila A Walking Food Tour in the Downtown, Eat and Drink

23. Private Half-Day Makati (Old Manila) with Intramuros

24. Intramuros Walking tour with Local Tour Guide

25. Manila Chinatown Food Tour Experience

26. Manila : Private Custom Walking Tour With A Guide (Private Tour)

27. Intramuros Sunset Tours by Bambike

28. Half Day Historical Manila City tour and much more with transfers

29. Explore The Hidden Gems of Manila

30. Banaue Rice Terraces Escape: 3 Days, 2 Nights with Transfers

What travelers are saying.

• Discover Tagaytay's Countryside: Half-Day Sightseeing Tour
• Spectacular Manila to Tagaytay: Full-Day Sightseeing Tour
• 7-Hours Tour of Manila: Eat, Walk & Explore
• 1.5-Hour Express Bike Tour in Intramuros (tour using a bamboo bicycle!)
• Hidden Gems of Manila with Mari
• Woola Filipinas - Philippines: Viajes a medida - Voyages sur mesure
• Tanlines Philippines
• Venturista Travel
• Albert Flores
• Manila For A Day Tours
• Old Manila Walks - Day Tours
• Bambike Ecotours Intramuros
• Don't Skip Manila City Tours

Walk This Way

• See all photos

Similar Experiences

Most Recent: Reviews ordered by most recent publish date in descending order.

Detailed Reviews: Reviews ordered by recency and descriptiveness of user-identified themes such as waiting time, length of visit, general tips, and location information.

WALK THIS WAY (Manila) - All You Need to Know BEFORE You Go

When In Manila Search

Walk this way tour: see manila differently.

Why are there no temples in Manila? If Spain ruled the Philippines for three centuries, how come no one speaks Spanish? Why is Manila so chaotic? And why do Filipinos love their malls?

If these are just some of the questions you’ve wondered about Manila, expect the Walk This Way Tour to shed some light and more.

Photos for WhenInManila.com by Mark Tating and Junko Flores

Say what you will about Carlos Celdran, but the guy knows his history. His specialty? Intramuros, of course, where the last 15 years of his tour-slash-performance art piece, “Walk This Way” has taken place, delighting audiences of all types: Fil-Ams visiting the homeland, hip backpackers, impressionable students, young, old, local, foreign, and everyone else in between.

Carlos is unafraid to be polarizing, as the internet today knows well. His brash insights on Philippine history has led some spectators of his tour to walk out, so it’s definitely not for the faint-hearted. But once you stick around and take what he says with an open mind, you would be surprised to learn more about Manila: a vastly misunderstood city, its history and how it came to be, through insights that are surprisingly astute.

The tour begins at the heart of Fort Santiago, Intramuros’ sole military fortress. Carlos dons a top hat and waves a tiny Philippine flag, to comical effect. He yells, whispers, and puts on accents. The audience laughs. The guy is a performance artist through and through.

Walk This Way is a live show and Intramuros is his stage. There are a lot of theatrics, but make no mistake: while Carlos’ actions are exaggerated, the facts and figures aren’t. It’s a fine line he straddles between dramatics and historical accuracy, yet he does so with ease.

For a walking tour, it isn’t so much walking as it is leisurely strolling around and occasionally sitting down for Carlos’ narratives. There is no dull moment as he explains various periods in Philippine history: from the coming of the Spaniards and Catholicism’s subsequent influence on the country, to the American influence and eventually, the Battle of Manila.

If you’re a local, pay attention and answer correctly to be rewarded with some Choc-nut. For foreign tourists, no worries, as Carlos is pretty generous with the Choc-nut anyway.

Overall, the Walk This Way tour is a wonderful, hilarious, exhilarating, and refreshingly honest account of Philippine history. Foreigners get to walk away with profound insight and appreciation of Manila and the Philippines, while locals enrich their knowledge and get to reflect on our society. It’s a history lesson packed with a punch, and then some.

Walk This Way Tour by Carlos Celdran

https://carlosceldranwalks.wordpress.com/

About The Author

Sam is a twentysomething that loves to write about travel, food, and culture. She believes that writing helps us make better sense of the world we live in. Check out more of her writing on sambeltran.com. Say hi on Twitter and/or Instagram at @samzabbel.