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Hawaii’s Overtourism Problem May Get Worse Than Ever

(Bloomberg) -- In early 2021, Hawaii’s tourism board kicked off a trailblazing plan to inject authentic Native Hawaiian culture into every facet of its visitor industry, using it to help protect its communities and fragile places while deepening the tourist experience. Now, just three years in, the “Malama Hawaii” or “Care for Hawaii” initiative to push sustainable tourism may be on its way out.

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As a busy summer travel season impends, Hawaii’s legislators have allocated no funds for the state’s 25-year-old tourism office in the proposed state tourism budget bill for fiscal year 2023-2024, which will kick off on July 1. And late in April, lawmakers considered two bills to disband the Hawaii Tourism Authority and replace it with an agency that would focus less on marketing Hawaii to tourists and more on managing the destination’s resources.

The bill was deferred and HTA remains in place, but numerous knowledgeable people who spoke to Bloomberg predict that excluding the agency in the final budget would significantly curtail HTA’s efforts in managing tourism on the islands.

John De Fries, chief executive officer at the Hawaii Tourism Authority, said in a newsletter that without funding, the HTA’s work in destination management, visitor education and brand marketing work will be jeopardized. The HTA, he said, will be “making tough decisions in the coming days” about canceling existing contracts and “ongoing community work.”

Legislators said the tourism office can tap into $30 million in unused funds from the American Rescue Plan Act to continue managing tourism — equal to half the money that the HTA had requested for the upcoming fiscal year.

All this poses an existential threat to the cultural activities, festivals and community-led volunteer opportunities that have recently made Hawaii such a vibrant place to visit — as well as improved crowd control measures protecting the state’s most fragile places.

Tourism Tensions

The friction between legislators and Hawaii’s tourism office is not new. It reached a boiling point in 2019, when Hawaii’s 1.5 million residents watched it become a case study in overtourism amid 10.4 million annual arrivals. Among the side effects of that unregulated industry: garbage littering popular sights, beaches so crowded you’d have a hard time finding space for a towel, coral reefs suffering from bleaching, traffic snarls caused by selfie-snapping tourists, and sacred places being desecrated by graffiti and spray paint.

For many Hawaiians inside and outside the government, HTA was a victim of its own success marketing the state. And for that, HTA began giving itself a major overhaul.

A leadership of largely white executives was replaced with one almost entirely comprising Indigenous Hawaiians; the agency’s goals were refocused on making tourism more sustainable for everyone.

The “Malama Hawaii” campaign took off. It spread responsible tourism messaging to visitors before during their trips and created sustainable experiences to help visitors be more mindful of the fragility of Hawaii’s beautiful and sacred places. It also helped disperse foot traffic to reduce the harmful impacts of mass tourism.

The changes helped attract more affluent, higher-spending travelers, which explains why in 2023 the state is projected to bring in a record $1 billion in hotel bed taxes. Those guests, in turn, were happy to contribute to educational community-led activities such as beach cleanups in Kauai, tours of a chocolate farm in Oahu and joining cultural walks in Waikiki.

For some Hawaiian legislators, that progress was too slow. The government has since reined in the tourism office’s spending powers, cut off its direct line of funding from hotel taxes and began requiring state approval to award contracts and pass annual budgets.

“The legislature didn’t think [the change] was going fast enough,” says Frank Haas, president at Marketing Management Inc. and a consultant for the HTA’s 2020-25 strategic plan for sustainable tourism development.

Mondy Jamshidi-Kent, a professor of travel management at the University of Hawaii at Manoa, says some legislators have been committed to disbanding the HTA for at least five years, having made up their minds before De Fries could get to work.

“I’m disappointed to have learned that they don’t incorporate the last three years of statistically measured improvement,” she says, arguing that the current discussions are driven more by emotion than data. “This is a disturbing threat to our democratic process.”

Jamshidi-Kent speculates that this “new way of tourism,” which centers Hawaiian culture in business operations and adds layers of true accountability, may have been perceived as threatening by certain members of the government. “It doesn't make sense why the legislature is trying to fix something that’s working.”

Seeds of Sustainability

In a short period, HTA had made measurable progress. More than 25% of US mainland visitors to Hawaii surveyed during the fourth quarter 2022 reported seeing messaging before and during their trip about “caring for and respecting Hawaii's culture, people, and environment.”

On the sustainability front, a growing number of state parks now require reservations; the 4,000-acre ‘Īao Valley State Monument on Maui just became the fourth state park using an advance booking system for out-of-state visitors, as of May 1. The number of community-run volunteer experiences for tourists via HTA-funded pilot programs led by the Native Hawaiian Hospitality Association (NaHAA), in collaboration with nonprofit organization Travel2change, more than doubled, from 30 to about 70, in recent years.

All this helped improve sentiment among residents about tourism, explains Mālia Sanders, executive director at NaHAA. A quarterly survey taken in fall 2022 showed that almost half of 1,949 Hawaii residents surveyed statewide said they believed tourism was being better managed than previously; there was little change, however, in the number saying their own island is being run for tourists at the expense of residents.

What Comes Next

Those calling for the closure of HTA favor building a different kind of tourism office that would focus exclusively on sustainable management of tourism, not marketing to tourists. It would take time to establish, and it will come with costs.

At risk are programs and experiences that are as valuable to travelers as to locals — HTA-sponsored events like the Hawaii Book and Music Festival on Oahu, which celebrates Hawaiian heritage and cultures through storytelling and song; the Hawaii Food & Wine Festival; the Maui Ukulele Festival; and the Big Island Chocolate Festival. These festivals help put Hawaiian artists and culture in the spotlight, giving visitors a richer experience and locals meaningful revenue streams.

Unless Governor Josh Greene vetoes the proposed state budget, many of these programs would probably suffer cuts in the next three to six months. “To take all that away is terrifying,” says Sanders of the Native Hawaiian Hospitality Association. Also at risk would be the reservations systems and crowd control measures that are currently mitigating overtourism in Hawaii’s most fragile and beautiful corners.

One solution would involve rethinking the HTA’s place in the government, giving it authority to work collaboratively with such other agencies as the Department of Land and Natural Resources, says tourism marketing veteran Haas. Goodwill to support such a radical restructuring may be lacking.

Outreach should be a part of any future agency’s mission, argues Sanders. Without it, she asks: “How do we attract the right kind of visitor that is willing to be educated while they are here—willing to contribute and be a part of social change?”

Jamshidi-Kent agrees. Marketing, she explains, makes the difference between telling visitors, “Hey come to Hawaii, lay on the beach, have a Mai Tai,” to saying, “Hey, we would love you to come, but remember this is our home. You have to take care of this place.”

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The reopening did not come without outrage from some residents, many of whom signed a petition to delay the reopening as families continue to struggle to "find shelter, provide for their children's education, and cope with emotional trauma," according to the petition.

Homes have been flattened and are completely inhabitable. Businesses have been decimated. Some loved ones remain unaccounted for and residents have been grieving the loss of 97 people who died in the tragedy.

The petition has received more than 10,000 signatures.

The fact that tourism is resuming so soon around the outskirts of a town made unrecognizable by the wildfires has reignited an ongoing debate about Hawaii's reliance on tourism.

"There is just not a lot of activities like there usually is for these people to do, so a lot of people are wondering, why do they want to come here?" said Jordan Ruidas, a community organizer and resident.

Tourism is the No. 1 driver of that state's economy, according to Hawaii Tourism Authority , and businesses across the island have been impacted by the lack of visitors since the Aug. 8 wildfires.

But some residents link tourism and its historical links to colonialism with many of the issues plaguing the Islands, including lack of access to clean water, the housing crisis, and pollution and destruction of Hawaiian lands.

"It's a great business for Hawaii, but the difficult thing for us here is that there is not a street, a community, a county. There's nowhere that you can hide from tourism in Hawaii," said Susie Pu, a hotel manager on Maui.

She continued, "The most important thing is that we find a balance between the Hawaiian culture and tourism. Hawaiian people need to be benefiting from tourism equally. And I do not see that."

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Hawaii before tourism.

Hawaii didn't always rely on tourism as its main source of income.

According to research from the University of Hawaii , Hawaiian society was self-sustaining and run in cooperative, extended ohana -- or family -- that each manned subdivisions of land.

Native Hawaiians were recorded to have been living "well above subsistence levels, with extensive time available for cultural activities, sports, and games" before their long period of isolation from outsiders came to an end, the University of Hawaii found.

Contact with the outside world in the 1770s changed Hawaii drastically. Deaths caused a massive wave of fatalities, leading to a 90% decline in the Native Hawaiian population, according to research from the National Academy of Medicine.

The Hawaiian Kingdom and monarchy were formed during this period of change, adopting Western political strategies to settle disputes between competing Hawaiian states. The Islands also became integrated into the global market, losing its past self-sustaining system.

This drastic social, economic, and political change was marked by a shift to sugar production when a treaty with the U.S. exempted sugar firms on the island from high tariffs.

"The story of sugar is really, really important because in a lot of ways it was the wealthy and powerful corporations that promoted sugar to the kingdom that really were responsible for seeking markets in the United States," Jonathan Kay Kamakawiwoʻole Osorio, the dean of the Hawaiʻinuiākea School of Hawaiian Knowledge, said.

"That's all a part of the story of not just the rise, but the fall of the [Hawaiian] kingdom," said Osorio.

As production expanded, American corporations producing sugar on the Islands sought to keep prices high and labor costs lower, hiring cheaper immigrant labor and lobbying for an immigration policy that would allow them to do so, historians say.

"While sugar did actually generate a great deal of income, most of that income really acted to sort of replace Native Hawaiians in the country," said Osorio.

Efforts to expand sugar production and house waves of imported labor pushed Native Hawaiians from their land, home, and island.

Throughout this time, laborers were organizing against low wages and poor benefits, and "the sugar companies began to lose a little bit of control. Everybody can sort of see that in the future, sugar is not going to be as profitable as it once was," according to Osorio.

However, World War II and the bombing of Pearl Harbor in 1941 put labor rights efforts to a halt.

It wasn't until the late 1940s that workers began to make real concessions -- getting better benefits and salaries.

"Sugar companies really basically are looking at an industry that's not nearly as conducive to profits as it once was. Plus, in the post-war world, there's also new competition from places like the Philippines," Osorio added.

By the 1970s, more and more plantations were shutting down and they were moving toward using their lands for a tourist economy.

"Tourism would not exist at the scale that it exists today if it weren't for the takeover," Osorio said.

Vulnerability in tourism reliance

Following the wildfires on the West side, occupancy at the oceanfront condo resort Hana Kai Maui on the other side of the island was impacted almost immediately.

"We have always operated at a really high occupancy, almost like 95% year round. The day of the fires or the day after the fires, it was just such a downward slide," Pu said.

"We lost hundreds of 1000s of dollars in reservations over about a one-week period. And we're only a 17-unit business so it was a lot. We're recovering," she added.

Noah Drazkowski, who was born and raised in West Maui and owns a local business, told ABC News in a previous interview that he's been grieving alongside his community while looking for ways to keep his local business afloat.

"The majority of our income is from tourists, tourism, and I wish that we could say that we can survive on only the local community support," said Drazkowski.

Some business owners are torn about the future of tourism in Maui.

In 2022 alone, Hawaii saw nearly 10 million visitors, according to the state Department of Business, Economic Development & Tourism. In 2020, amid the COVID-19 pandemic, the Islands saw roughly 2.7 million.

Now, approximately 70% of every dollar is generated directly or indirectly by the visitor industry, according to the Maui Economic Development Board.

The COVID-19 pandemic highlighted how life in Hawaii could be without "overtourism," Osorio said.

"We started really seeing what happens to beaches and what happens to the ocean and what happens to mountain trails, hiking trails when they are free of so many people," said Osorio. "The quality of life in so many ways improves not [just for the people] but for other species that have depended on this environment for a long time."

Pu added: "We want tourists in Hawaii, but we also want to be able to live peacefully here and we want our forests to remain intact."

The impacts of tourism

Being a popular tourist destination comes with its challenges.

The Aloha State is experiencing one of the worst housing crises in America, with some of the highest housing costs in the nation and the fourth-highest rate of homelessness per capita in the country, according to the University of Hawaii Economic Research Organization and the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development.

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The U.S. has acknowledged its historical responsibility for causing this housing crisis among Native Hawaiians through its 1921 Hawaiian Homes Commission Act, a reparations policy that set aside land for Native communities after the violent displacement and removal of Native Hawaiians.

Parts of Maui have also been under a water conservation notice in recent years, as an intense drought and dry conditions limit the region's access to water. With hotels and resorts taking up their share of the water, some locals wish that water would be directed toward residents, especially following the deadly wildfire in which firefighters in Lahaina claimed that their hoses ran dry.

Politicians have been under pressure from some residents to look for a way to diversify the economy and for land to be given back to the Native Hawaiian population. As tourism comes back toward the disaster area, the conversation around tourism is unlikely to settle down.

"Our desire is to provide for ourselves so that we can properly feed ourselves, so that we can actually have places to live, so that we can protect the lands from misuse," said Osorio.

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4 ways Hawaii is coping with a tourist influx as COVID-19 restrictions lift

Jul 14, 2021 • 6 min read

Tourists have been returning to Hawaii in droves © John Seaton Callahan / Getty Images

Hawaii has always been a go-to destination for travelers—and many Hawaiian residents are used to it. But since  COVID-19 restrictions were lifted this spring, there's been a rush of tourists that has rattled even the most hardened residents. 

Hawaii is currently on track to surpass its 2019 tourism numbers, despite the state only being fully opened since July 8. Since the quarantine restrictions were lifted, Hawaii has seen nearly 200,000 self-described tourists arrive on their shores. 

These numbers have led to a host of issues like traffic congestion, more  garbage and lack of transportation resources. A lack of rental cars have even led some  tourists using U-Hauls to get around . Hawaiian government officials and the tourism boards are scrambling to solve the overtourism issues, which experts claim won’t level off until 2022 .    

“We’re working toward more mindful and, ultimately, regenerative tourism where visitors take the time to know each island and the local culture and community," said Kalani Ka‘anā‘anā, chief brand officer of the Hawaii Tourism Authority, via email. “As tourism starts to recover, we encourage travelers to be open-minded and respectful as we believe that when visitors travel mindfully and make a positive impact, they’ll have a more enriching experience.”

Here are four ways Hawaii is dealing with the recent influx of tourism to its islands. 

Increasing fees for out-of-state tourists  

Snorkeling the translucent waters of Hanauma Nature Bay now comes with a heftier price tag. According to the Associated Press, the entrance fee for out-of-state visitors has increased from $12 to $25. 

The increased entrance fee has nothing to do with punishing tourists and more to do with preserving the natural habit of the area. According to Honolulu conservation groups, the nine-month shutdown led to clearer waters and the return of wildlife to the coasts. 

“We saw how dramatically Hanauma Bay healed during the pandemic when access to the public was closed. We want to preserve the healing by minimizing human impacts, while at the same time ensuring that there are sufficient resources to maintain the bay and its facilities,” said Honolulu City Council Chairman Tommy Waters, who represents the district that includes the bay, via the Associated Press . 

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Currently, Hanauma Bay is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays and has a cap of 1,000 visitors per day on the days it's opened. All reservations must be made online . According to the AP, attendance was roughly around 3,000 visitors daily in 2019.

In Maui , officials are debating implementing a “visitor impact fee” to fund services needed to combat increased visitors' burden on the island. 

"Places like the Galapagos, it's expensive to get there. Galapagos, you would have to pay an extra $400 for impact fees if you're visiting the Galapagos," Maui County Councilman Shane Sinenci said during a press conference via ABC7 News . 

Hawaii counties are also considering a 3% hotel room tax increase . The current hotel tax is 15%. The increase would make Hawaii one of the most expensive places to visit in the country. Las Vegas has a hotel room tax of 13.35%, while San Francisco charges 14% and New York City 14.75%. 

"We feel that visitors can and should contribute to helping to preserve our natural resources, especially those who visit our parks, hiking trails, beaches, etc. while in Hawai‘i," said the Tourism Board of Hawaii. "Tax decisions are made by the governor, mayors, legislators and council members, as the state and counties can determine entrance and parking fees for visitors at parks to help pay for safety, upkeep, and reinvestment in those locations.” 

Maui mayor requests tourism pause 

Maui County Mayor Michael Victorino is calling for a general pause of tourism to the island. The first-term mayor reportedly met with airline executives to request a brief stoppage of passengers to the overpopulated destination. 

"I have been talking with different airlines and … we're asking for just a pause, if you want to use that term," Victorino said during a press conference on June 29. "We don't have the authority to say stop, but we're asking the powers to be to help us … 

"I want to remind the visitors that Maui is a community first and a vacation destination second.”

Victorino’s pleas will likely do little to curb the influx of tourists. Based on the state of Hawaii COVID-19 travel portal , nearly 80,000 passengers came via United Airlines, while Hawaiian Airlines flew in over 60,000 and Southwest nearly 50,000 passengers in July alone. 

Alex Da Silva, the spokesman for Hawaiian Airlines, said the airline carrier is interested in working in tandem with Hawaiian leaders to find a solution to the tourism concerns. 

“As Hawaii’s hometown airline, we both live and work here and are conscious of the strain on our infrastructure, natural resources and communities posed by a rebound in visitor arrivals, especially when businesses still face operational restrictions associated with COVID-19,” Da Silva said in a statement via The Star Advertiser . “But we know that visitors are also the engine of our economic recovery and future diversification.”

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New shuttle bus service

A new shuttle bus service, subsidized by the Maui Visitors and Convention Bureau  and running from the Kahului Airport to big resorts around the island, is being tested. 

The two-week pilot program will aim to reduce the number of vehicles on the road and decrease traffic congestion, which has only gotten worse since COVID-19 restrictions were lifted on the islands. The program is slated to end on July 17, but it could run throughout the rest of the summer if successful. 

“Our hope is that it becomes so popular with the visitors that we can continue it through the summer and then it will help with the whole community versus visitor relationship too,” said Leanne Pletcher, Maui Visitors and Convention Bureau Director of Public Relations and Marketing to Hawaii News Now . 

According to Hawaii News Now, the “Maui Aloha Shuttle” will make three trips each day using coaches provided by Polynesian Adventure Tours. Rates are $50 for a one-way trip to West Maui, $35 for children ages 4-12; $35 to Wailea and $20 for kids 4-12. Children three and younger are free. Shuttle bus tickets can be purchased at the airport. 

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Increased law enforcement on Hana Highway

The 64-mile road to Hana, better known as the Hana Highway, is a major tourist attraction and has only gotten more popular since tourism has resumed. The winding road filled with picturesque views of waterfalls and jagged coastline entices many visitors to stop for a picture. However, here lies the problem. 

The Hana Highway is also the main road Maui residents use. High tourist traffic not only leads to congestion but negatively impacts residents trying to live their lives. 

“You have 40 to 50 cars piling up at these traffic lights and then embarking bumper to bumper along the Road to Hana, and when these sets of cars come upon the bridges where there are people illegally parked it creates scenarios of full stoppage,” said Hana resident and Hana Highway Regulation Administrator Napua Hueu to KHON2.com . “We have residents who have sent in videos of them being stalled at a bridge for up to 30 minutes.”

In response to resident pleas, the Hawaii Department of Transportation (HDOT) has installed approximately 70 “No Parking” signs along the most popular areas on the Hana Highway.  

According to a Hawaii Tourism Authority press release , the signs also warn drivers about the $35 parking fine and $200 surcharge for illegally stopping on a state highway. 

Mayor Victorino’s office reported that between June 1 and June 23, the Maui Police Department issued 389 parking citations and 83 warnings to violators on Hana Highway between Haiku and Hana town.

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Hawaii Is a Paradise, but Whose?

A growing number of Hawaiians say that tourism isn’t working for them. Here’s how they are trying to change it.

By Tariro Mzezewa

Locals in Oahu know that the best way to get from Waikiki’s crowded beaches to the cool North Shore is to drive along the island’s eastern coast. The road is framed by mountains, ocean and greenery so lush and beautiful, it’s hard to focus the eye on one place for too long, for fear of missing the next scenic attraction.

On a recent trip along the route, something else stood out: the upside down Hawaiian flags flying at almost every stop.

The flag, which has the union jack in the bottom left corner, instead of the usual top left, hung in storefronts in Waikiki and was printed on T-shirts in Waimanalo, it was stuck on the bumpers of passing cars in Kailua and flying from the backs of trucks in Kahuku and other towns on the North Shore.

The flag has become a symbol of solidarity among Hawaiians who oppose the construction of a large new telescope on Mauna Kea, on the island of Hawaii . Mauna Kea, at 32,000 feet from seafloor to summit, and with 13,796 feet above sea level, is one of the best places in the northern hemisphere, if not the world, to observe the cosmos, experts say. The telescope’s proponents say that it will bring hundreds of jobs to the island and advance humanity’s study of space.

But it has faced fierce resistance from some native Hawaiians for whom Mauna Kea is sacred ground and a place of roots, and their allies. Opponents of the telescope say they are tired of having their land taken for purposes that benefit others and for the often elusive promise of jobs that fail to deliver in terms of numbers or a living wage.

“The struggle at Mauna Kea right now is one of the biggest issues that has realigned many cultural political relationships in Hawaii,” said Kyle Kajihiro, an activist and lecturer at the University of Hawaii at Manoa. “It’s really quite an amazing emergence of Hawaiian activism of cultural awareness.”

The battle over the telescope has revealed fissures that have long existed in Hawaii, a place that is all but synonymous with tourism — the most-popular destination for honeymoons in the United States and a bucket-list perennial. The fight has inspired actions around the islands, all relating to how land is used and who benefits from it.

The spirit of protest is most visible in Oahu, where in Kahuku demonstrators have spent the last several months fighting the construction of eight wind turbines, each standing at 568 feet — taller than the tallest skyscraper in Honolulu. Protesters say the turbines will have adverse long term health effects on the population. The company building them says there is no evidence to support those claims and promises to bring jobs to the area. More than 160 people have been arrested there.

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In southeast Oahu, in September, 28 people were arrested trying to block the building of a park and recreation center in Waimanalo, a largely agricultural town. The developers behind the center say it will bring jobs and create a new community space, but opponents fear it will be a magnet for tourists and will destroy the forest and beach used by locals.

In Honolulu, in May, Hilton employees protested, demanding a better contract and job protections. In July, hotel employees went on strike to protest what they said were low wages and the firing of 45 workers by Diamond Resorts, an operator of multiple properties in the United States and Europe. The company said it would turn one of its hotels into a timeshare resort, which requires fewer workers than a traditional hotel.

“We value our dedicated team members at The Modern Honolulu and we were pleased to reach a contract agreement that includes a significant pay increase,” a spokesman for Diamond said. “We are continuing our planned efforts to convert the property into a world-class vacation ownership resort.”

Most people in Hawaii, especially in the tourism industry work more than one job to barely get by, said Bryant de Venecia, communications organizer for the workers’ union, Unite Here Local 5, which represents resort workers.

“Mauna Kea has lit a fire for Hawaiians who are tired of watching their land, resources and work be used at the expense of their well-being,” he said.

Hawaii is the most expensive state to live in, according to the 2018 Annual Average Cost of Living Index by the Council for Community and Economic Research. Groceries, for example, cost 60 percent more than the national average.

“People are tired of being decorative — Hawaiians as well as people who live in Hawaii,” said Maile Meyer, who owns Nā Mea Hawai’i , a bookstore in Honolulu that sells products from smaller local makers. “Y ou’re seeing a phenomenon of natives gathering again and completely finding our way back to each other as part of the solution.”

Jobs aren’t enough

A common thread between these protests is that they are being led by locals. They say that since Europeans first arrived in the 18th century, Hawaiian land has been taken and misused by non-Hawaiians, and often to the detriment of Hawaiians and their traditions. The endeavors that have sparked these recent protests all promise jobs, just as tourism and defense have in the past.

But perhaps for the first time in recent Hawaiian history, natives and locals are saying the quality of these jobs is not good enough.

“We’re having to move away from quantity to quality,” said Laurien Baird Hokuli’i Helfrich-Nuss, the founder of Conscious Concepts , a company that works with local organizations on sustainable tourism initiatives. “Now that local people are getting more agency, they are learning more, going into a more curious space of saying ‘It’s great that this company is providing jobs, but what kind of jobs are they? Are they good jobs? Are they paying a livable wage?”

Tourism is the biggest driver of Hawaii’s economy, accounting for 21 percent of jobs. Nearly 10 million people visited the state in 2018 and in 2019, guest arrivals were expected to surpass that number, hitting a record high. And although more people are visiting Hawaii, they are spending less there.

Locals say that resorts are often owned and run by non-Hawaiians, with Hawaiian people employed in the lower-paying service jobs, and that development often benefits outsiders at the expense of native and local well-being.

“There historically hasn’t been enough consideration for how tourism and tourists can contribute to making life sustainable and really livable for the locals who serve them here,” Mr. de Venecia said.

More than a “play land”

The feeling of escape — of fleeing to a nearby paradise with stunning beaches and luxurious resorts — has long been Hawaii’s appeal to the traveling public. While the hottest trends in travel now are the search for authenticity and ways to experience local life, many people who visit Hawaii are looking to get away from daily life. They come to sit on the beach and drink a matai without thinking about much else. Their interaction with local culture is often limited to watching a hula show at the hotel luau.

“We realized a lot of folks who would visit us who would normally have more consciousness about history and social justice concerns seem to turn off that part of their brain when they think about Hawaii,” Mr. Kajihiro, the activist and lecturer, said, adding that people treat the islands as a “play land.”

But this decision to turn off their brains is hurting Hawaii and Hawaiians, he said.

While working for the American Friends Service Committee, the Quaker peace and justice organization, Mr. Kajihiro and his colleague Terrilee Kekoʻolani studied the environmental and social effects of colonization, militarization and overdevelopment of Hawaii. They learned that tourism was one of the industries with some of the most damaging effects on Oahu, he said, citing overcrowding, a higher cost of living and higher prices for goods.

The pair began offering alternative tours of the island, which they call DeTours, in 2004 and have seen increased interest in recent years. Their work was included in the recently published Duke University Press book “ Detours: A Decolonial Guide to Hawaii, ” a collection of essays, interviews and family histories about ethical and contextualized tourism in the islands edited by Hokulani K. Aikau and Vernadette Vicuña González.

The tours are given to groups of people who want to learn about Hawaii from the perspective of local Hawaiians. They include a deep history on the ways military life is hidden across the island. During a typical tour, guests go to Iolani Palace, the Hawaiian royal residence, then to Chinatown and some of the old neighborhoods where new immigrants to Hawaii traditionally settled. The next stop is usually Fort Shafter, the headquarters of the United States Army Pacific; then Camp Smith, but the main part of the tour is Ke Awalau o Puʻuloa — Pearl Harbor.

During a DeTours of Pearl Harbor, Mr. Kajihiro pauses in the “Oahu court” between the Pearl Harbor galleries and the museum and asks guests to look at the placards in the hallway. At the placard that says, “The Hawaiian Kingdom was overthrown in 1893,” he explains that this one sentence has been controversial with the United States government because it acknowledges the government-backed overthrow of Queen Lili’uokolani, which unsettles American claims to Hawaii. In the museum’s Attack Gallery, Mr. Kajihiro points to a small image of the Hono’uli’uli internment camp where Japanese people were held during World War II and uses it as a jumping-off point for a conversation about immigration and civil rights.

“People already come here with so many images and ideas about what Hawaii is that it’s really hard for them to see something different, so that’s why we started calling our work ‘DeTours,” Mr. Kajihiro said. “To swerve off the path that most people are going to see or understand and consume and shake it up by raising some more critical perspectives and introducing a lot of historical facts that are not so pleasant.”

A new type of tourism

The DeTours team is part of a movement looking to change what tourism means in Hawaii. Ms. Nuss, of Conscious Concepts, is originally from Oahu and returned in 2009 after working in hospitality in the Caribbean, New York, Miami and other places on the United States mainland.

“ I came home seeing something happening in Hawaii that I didn’t see when I left,” she said. “My generation was stepping into their leadership roles and doing it differently, reconnecting for a movement back to the land.”

But she quickly realized that what many companies were doing didn’t align with her vision for supporting tourism while ensuring the well-being of overworked Hawaiians.

In 2015, Ms. Nuss created her company to find ways to support Hawaiian businesses function sustainably while also remaining a key part of the most important sector in Oahu — tourism. Ms. Nuss has worked with farms, artists and nonprofit organizations to change their offerings so they can appeal to tourists, while still benefiting Hawaiians. A farm hoping to attract tourists to volunteer might turn to her to figure out the best ways to reach them. She described her work with as “consciously creating experiences for travelers and opportunities for locals.”

“I had a realization about how our tourism industry is presently run, which is coming from the commodification of culture,” she said. “I realized what was happening in my communities and the value systems that were driving it were contradictory to the form of tourism that I was being a part of.”

To give tourists a more authentic experience of “the real Hawaii,” the artists Roxy and Matt Ortiz, invite them into their studio in the Kaka’ako district of Honolulu. The couple is known for their elaborate murals of fanciful tree houses, which they create under the name Wooden Wave .

“When people come see us work, it gives them a totally different way to experience Hawaii,” Ms. Ortiz said. “And it’s a fun way for us to give tourists a different experience than they usually see in those brochures.”

In these studio visits, guests can see the couple’s work in progress, but also learn about ahupua’a, the ancient system of land division, in which the island was separated into slices, each slice running from the top of the local mountain to the shore. During the visit, Mr. Ortiz explains that each ahupua’a included forest area up high and a cultivated area below, and depending on the politics and economy of each ahupua’a, its size was different from another.

Mr. Ortiz said that even the slightest opportunity for tourists to think about how water and land have always worked together and why they hold importance to Hawaiians can encourage them to be more thoughtful when interacting with locals and the land and sea while visiting.

“When people have some of the history and context they can appreciate the art more and they can experience the island in a more meaningful way,” he said.

Another way tourists can learn about the land and engage with locals is by visiting a local farm like Kahumana Farm in Waianae on the west side of Oahu.

In November, Chloe Anderson, a therapist and teacher in California, visited the farm and stayed for four of her six days in Oahu. There she shared a room with others, did yoga, learned about the produce grown and cooked on the farm and generally felt like she got a more meaningful experience than she would have at a luxury resort, removed from daily Hawaiian life.

“We had like three or four different activities we would do every day,” she said. “But so many things were based off the farm and at the farm. We still had the experience of being a tourist in Hawaii and going on hikes and beach excursions, but also of experiencing something more.”

Some business owners are committed to staying in the tourism sector, and are trying to be as environmentally friendly as possible.

“I don’t think it’s reasonable to expect that people just won’t work in the main industry there is and I don’t think Hawaiians want to stop tourism altogether, but we are all working to find ways of doing it responsibly and thoughtfully,” said Shane Hiroshi Gibler, who co-owns Royal Hawaiian Catamaran , which is based in Honolulu and offers snorkel tours, sunset cruises and private charters.

On Mr. Gibler’s boat, guests are asked not to bring any plastic and recycling is available aboard. Mr. Gibler educates guests an education about fishing, food and the importance of the ocean and the land to Hawaiians. The Royal Catamaran team regularly gathers people to clean up the shoreline and has been working with the Surfrider Foundation to remove ghost nets — fishing nets that have been lost or left behind by fishing boats — from reefs or the ocean.

The idea, one echoed by Mr. Kajihiro, is to encourage tourists to think about how they can leave their resort, even for one day of their trip, and contribute to the place they are visiting.

“The point is to make folks more responsible when they come here and to interrogate this notion that Hawaii is somehow a place for them,” Mr. Kajihiro said. “If you are thinking about coming here, ask yourself: Who are you in relation to this place? Are you bringing something that will be of value to the host, the people who live here? What will be your impact and your legacy be?”

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An earlier version of this article misstated the cost of groceries in Hawaii. They cost 60 percent more than the national average, not more than 60 percent of the national average.

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Tariro Mzezewa is a travel reporter at The New York Times.  More about Tariro Mzezewa

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The Case for Caps: Overtourism in Hawaii

In January 2022, the Hawaii Tourism Authority (HTA) marked the first time Native Hawaiians— kanaka maoli —comprised a majority of its 12-member board of directors. As tourism represents the largest industry in Hawaii, around 21 percent of the state’s economy, this situation provided an opportunity for much greater influence and input from kanaka maoli on the policies that effectively determine the fate of their islands. In particular, the Board was exploring changes in fees, reservations, and education policy. At the heart of these changes, the Board discussed the fundamental issue of their mission : Their primary focus shifted from “marketing and brand management” to “destination management.” Through their Destination Management Action Plans (DMAPs), they aim to “rebuild, redefine and reset tourism’s direction,” with a “ focus [on] stabilization, recovery, and rebuilding. ” Unfortunately, these goals still fail to address the fundamental problem of tourism in Hawaii: The islands, their environment, and infrastructure cannot support the sheer number of tourists visiting the islands. To address this, the State of Hawaii must cap the number of visitors it allows into the islands.

Within the United States, Hawaii is one of the most popular tourist destinations. Despite its relatively modest population, Honolulu is the seventh most-visited city in the United States, with a record 2.75 million tourists in 2019. At the time, around 216,000 jobs were directly involved in or depended on the tourism industry. The surplus of tourists in 2019 allowed the State of Hawaii to raise over two billion dollars in taxes, but these benefits aren’t without their consequences.

While tourism is the largest sector of the state’s economy, it is also the root cause of many of Hawaii’s fundamental problems. Tourists, who outnumber locals seven to one, severely strain the infrastructure designed for Hawaii’s small population. Perhaps the lack of water best illustrates this phenomenon. Currently, tourism accounts for 44.7 percent of total water consumption. While local residents suffer from droughts and face restrictions on watering their lawns or washing their cars, the tourism industry enjoys seemingly unfettered access to Hawaii’s water supply. The tourism industry also consumes a significant amount of energy. Researchers from the University of Hawaii at Mānoa found that at one point, hotels and their guests consumed around 60 percent of Hawaii’s fuel and electricity. Even facing the challenges to the tourism sector during the coronavirus pandemic, in 2020, hotels alone were responsible for 8.7 percent of electricity consumption on the island of Oahu. Tourists are also responsible for propagating an already dire affordable housing crisis. For decades, tourists have participated in illegal short-term vacation rentals, eager to capitalize on the islands’ popularity. Expensive rentals on Airbnb and VRBO, and rising prices of homes, condos and apartments make housing practically unaffordable for local communities. Even with surplus taxation from the tourism sector, most of the money from tourism unfortunately leaves the islands in the hands of shareholders of the Hilton, Marriott, and other multinational hospitality companies.

These issues led resident sentiment to turn on tourism in recent years. During Hawaii’s strict Covid-19 policies, some residents claimed that they “got their islands back” on account of the lack of tourists. But when the islands reopened, many called for continued controls on tourism. In July 2021, the Mayor of Maui, for example, asked airlines to pause their post-lockdown frenzy of flights. An additional 2022 survey found that 67 percent of Hawaii residents believed that their island was “being run for tourists at the expense of local people,” and 66 percent supported halting approval of new hotels, condos, and timeshares. This shift in attitude served as an inspiration for the HTA’s new destination management vision. 

One of HTA’s new destination management policies is educating tourists on the concepts of traveling pono (exploring with care) and mālama (to take care of). This change, however, arguably does nothing substantial to curb tourism’s greater effects. A recent effort by Hawaiian Airlines, for example, displayed a five minute video on being a “good tourist,” full of seemingly obvious reminders such as not approaching endangered species. But recent air incidents (such as Southwest Flight 1380, where passengers didn’t know how to use oxygen masks properly) illustrate that many people likely do not pay attention to the in-flight safety briefings. Most importantly, these “crash courses” fail to consider that even educated tourists are still tourists. 

Education isn’t the only nonanswer being propagated in discussions surrounding tourism  in Hawaii. One popular policy pushed by activists and politicians is the instatement of a tourist “green fee,” a $50 per visitor fee that would fund environmental conservation. This policy has already been implemented in other destinations in the Pacific, but their success is questionable. In the Micronesian nation of Palau, for example, a $100 “Pristine Paradise Environmental Fee” added to the cost of flights had little observable effect on the trend of tourism in Palau. In Hawaii, a territory that receives an average of 195 percent more (or an average of 7.45 million more) tourists a year than Palau, a green fee would certainly bring in revenue –about $400 million based on 2019 numbers–but would not do much to address the sheer number of tourists the islands see every year. 

Ultimately, the problem lies in the proximity that the mainland United States has to the island, facilitating the massive influx of tourists. Even amid a pandemic, visits to Hawaii skyrocketed when tourism reopened . Faced with a lack of hotel rooms and rental cars, tourists even resorted to renting out U-Hauls and camping on the beach, while local residents were ordered to decrease their water usage to provide for the resorts. No matter the barriers, economic or otherwise, tourists will flock to Hawaii. Ultimately, the solution to Hawaii’s tourism problem is for the government to step in and limit the amount of tourists allowed to travel to the islands. 

The most straightforward way for the government to limit tourists would be supplementing the proposed “green fee” with a “green cap” on tourists, a policy that has already been implemented  in Bhutan . The HTA and private organizations are already pursuing some similar policies on a smaller scale by enforcing a reservations policy for beaches and state parks in the islands, limiting the number of visitors to popular sites like Diamond Head. According to the CEO of HTA John De Fries, limiting visits to state parks reduces the daily tourist strain on these locations, “ protecting its natural environment and cultural sites.” A similar statewide implementation would reduce the strain on the existing infrastructure. Limiting visitors to Hawaii, however, does raise a cause for concern. As the largest single sector of Hawaii’s economy, a downsizing of tourism would have consequences for the state’s 242,000 employees in tourism, and could send a ripple effect through its connected industries.

Hawaii’s current relationship with tourism is unsustainable for the islands and their residents. But despite the well-intentioned efforts, policies, and proposals of the Tourism Authority and activist groups, these fail to address the root of the problem: tourists put immense pressure on Hawaii’s modest infrastructure–whether it be roads, water, or energy–and educating them or making them pay a fee does not change this. Ultimately, Hawaii must be seen through the words of Maui Mayor Michael Victorino: “a community first and a vacation destination second.” The State of Hawaii must put heavier emphasis on its community, even at the detriment of tourism. Until then, maybe rethink your vacation.

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Hawaii Travel Future Uncertain: Continuing Declines + Other Concerns

As predicted, the most recent month tracked by the state’s Hawaii Tourism Authority, revealed yesterday, continued to confirm a downhill tourism slide compared with last year. We first reported on that as far back as last fall. Is this good or bad? Read on for our analysis of what’s happening.

While Hawaii hotel occupancy, one important measure of tourism’s health, was still a relatively robust 73%, down a modest 1% compared with last year, prices are still going in the wrong direction, up 1.5%. More interesting, however, is that this decline came after an additional occupancy slide of 2% the prior month amid weakness that continues to grow. These follow a line of successes Hawaii has achieved in travel recovery following Covid.

Hawaii’s marketing mess complicates matters.

The ongoing problems at HTA and its marketing partners are confusing and complicated, making delivering any concise tourism message difficult. Last week it was announced that the head of HTA will be departing, whether of his own volition or that of the state (HTA). Hawaii’s marketing issues interfere with the state’s ability to compete domestically and internationally for visitors. John De Fries, who has been head of HTA for the past three years, said only that he will not seek to extend his contract that ends this summer. His imminent departure follows a very long line of ongoing planned and unexpected departures at HTA.

Hawaii cozies up to fewer visitors who are spending more.

What’s happening is that Hawaii tourism, which has been stating its desire to reduce travel, is paying off: Fewer visitors, but they are paying more. That’s true even though it means lower occupancy, among other things. This is consistent, however, with HTA plans. The State Legislature has been on the brink of scrapping the HTA altogether. If that were to happen, these roles and responsibilities would be assumed by the Hawaii Department of Business, Economic Development, and Tourism. Rep Quinlan’s plan is that the focus there would be exclusively on destination management rather than destination marketing.

Hawaii accommodation rates continue to climb, but more slowly.

While room rates have continued to climb, that trend has begun to slow at last. Hawaii accommodation rates are outrageous, as we’ve pointed out multiple times. We are still awaiting more data points in that regard for May, but as we last mentioned, there was a reported 10% drop in west coast arrivals in April. Hawaii vacation rentals, another important measure, will also be reported separately by the state. Hawaii lawmakers are looking at entirely eliminating the Hawaii Tourism Authority.

Fewer airline seats for now, but are more coming?

HTA’s partner HVCB said that in May, there were not as many Hawaii airline seats. They indicated that the capacity for all of 2023 is down over 3% compared with 2022. However, reliable source OAG/Cirium says that Hawaii airline seats will be up 6% compared with 2019, at least for July through September. We’ll await more clarification on these data points.

Data doesn’t reflect the true increase in Hawaii visitor costs.

The state says that so far this year, accommodations are costing, on average, 35% more than before Covid (2019). That is simply nonsense, as any Hawaii visitor can confirm. Instead, in total real numbers, including all fees and taxes, hotels and vacation rentals have increased by multiples. We recently mentioned an upcoming editors’ trip to a Kapolei Oahu business meeting, where the least expensive hotel, the Hampton Inn, including all taxes and fees, was more than $500 per night! No one likes being gouged, be it visitors or residents.

In Honolulu, the state says that rates in May were up 7.5% compared with 2022, with just slightly higher occupancy (2.5%) to a still healthy 78.3%. Kauai’s room rates went up another 8.2% compared with last year, with a slide in occupancy to a not-as-healthy 74.2%. The Big Island’s room rate, on the other hand, was down 3.1%, while occupancy was down 7% to just 66.9%. Maui saw its rates decline to an average of $539 (before approx. 18% taxes and various other fees), which was down 1.8% on 4.1% less traffic than last year.

West Coast and return visitors dropping.

The most important market for Hawaii travel is where the trouble is most apparent. In the last month for which we have complete details (April), arrivals from the West Coast declined 10% compared with last year. That as visitors choose destinations other than Hawaii.

Visitors still have an outsized impact on island infrastructure

The strain of tourism remains palpable still, in spite of the thus far modest declines. That is evident on the roads, at beaches, and everywhere else. US visitor arrivals for the remainder of the year and visitor spending are difficult to predict.

Still waiting for better value in Hawaii travel!

We have previously said that eventually, less demand will lead to better value in Hawaii travel. For now, the industry is happy to see fewer visitors spending more. But there is a point at which you can’t squeeze more out of everyone, and that point has arrived, in our opinion.

This will ultimately lead to Hawaii deals. Editor Jeff previously said, “We see significant softening in demand ahead this summer, which could bring hotel and rental car prices back down while airfares waver or continues to rise.” That is still true.

We’ve seen this coming for the past six months.

The warning signs about less demand for Hawaii travel bookings began during the December 2022 holiday season. There was an unexpected lack of Hawaii travel performance during a time of year that has always been the best performing.

There remains a glimmer of hope for late summer bookings, although that likelihood is becoming less and less. We reported last month that “Advance bookings for traditionally stellar July are currently off by up to one-third.”

We have recently been able to take advantage of some lower-priced Honolulu accommodation offers even in July. For example, a 3* Diamond Head location for $300 (including all taxes and fees). That is an unexpected improvement in price.

As you know, two Beat of Hawaii editors were in Europe last month. And there are more trips planned for this summer. We mention that because values in Europe, as confirmed by your comments, are much better overall than in Hawaii. That is across the board, including accommodations, car rentals, and restaurants, among other things. Airfare, well, not so much!

Airlines try to forecast the demand for Hawaii travel.

We confirm what HVCB previously said. That is, “A recent trend toward travelers booking rental cars and hotel rooms before airlines also has made it harder for airlines to forecast traveler demand.”

What is the best strategy for Hawaii visitors at this time?

As we have said before: “The current environment speaks to the benefits of last-minute bookings as yielding the best results. You can be sure that this isn’t what airlines, hotels, and car rentals want us to say. But that is clearly the situation at hand. On the other hand, this approach can also backfire if you wait too long. Those with more flexible travel plans will benefit most.”

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43 thoughts on “Hawaii Travel Future Uncertain: Continuing Declines + Other Concerns”

Hawaii can’t decide whether they want tourists or not. We’ve been going to Maui with another couple for the last fours years, returning in April. This will probably be our last trip since there are other places that will appreciate our business. We love Maui but they want to gauge you for every little thing now. Caribbean here we come.

It’s been 12 years since my last trip to Maui. I would love to go back but the hotel/rental rates + extra fees are ridiculous. Price gouging is the real cause of the drastic decline in visitors. A one week stay isn’t worth 3 months of mortgage payments.

Try a short-term rental, in a resort area like Wailea, so that you don’t take housing away from locals and the displaced. One-third the price of hotel for double the space, especially right now and for the foreseeable future. You can actually go to Maui pretty reasonably if you know where to look. I know because I’m here.

Oahu infrastructure is dying. Hotel 400 plus insane taxes dinner 250 lunch 186 breakfast 2 smoothies 32.00. Collapse of Waikiki beach because they won’t back fill sand. Flights: 800 r/t car 946 for 10 days, hotel parking 500 for 10 days. Unfortunately, I have family on islands. Hawaii is going to get the California treatment. People are going to stop coming here anymore. Crime on Waikiki is bad too. I can go elsewhere and get an equivalent experience. The locals appreciate the visitors who inject money into the economy. Years and years of horrific mismanagement and corruption on State and local levels will finish off the Hawaiian economy.

I totally get the farmers markets are mostly frequented by residents, in some areas, maybe not Princeville! I don’t go to the market to pay less. We found prices are the same for the same item as in stores. I go to get better quality vegetables and fruit. It isn’t any one thing alone. It’s the accumulation of price, airfare, reservations, car rental, and convenience to get here from the east coast. We have to ask ourselves if the benefit is worth the trouble? For us, our conversation now is what do other places have to offer that we would never have considered in the past, because Kauai was our place to relax and surround ourselves in the beauty the island offers. Sadly, for the first time we have no time or plans to return.

We are in Kauai now. We’ve been coming here since 2004. We have not seen traffic like we are use to seeing. At Waimea Lookout parking was $10 plus it’s $5 a person. On a Sunday we got a parking spot right away. At the farmers market we paid $3 for a bunch of radishes, $5 for a bell pepper, $3 for a cucumber. At JoJo’s in Hanalei it’s $7.50 for a shave ice. We walked right in and sat down at our favorite fist stop Hamuras Saimin where a regular Special Bowl is now $10.50, a scoop of Lapperts is $7.50. Hawaii will get what it’s hoping for, less visitors. They should be careful what they wish for. After this we’re taking a break from Hawaii. We feel gouged. So many long time favorites have closed too. Very sad!

You may not realize that the farmers markets are largely frequented by residents. Check the prices at supermarkets if you think that $3 is too much for locally grown produce. It’s actually reasonable. And the farmers aren’t exactly getting rich at those prices. Keep in mind that all of their expenses are very high.

On Memorial Day we visited Akaka Falls and were surprised at the $10 parking fee plus $5 a person. My husband is a Veteran and we got free parking and free access saving us $35 to visit a waterfall we enjoy but we’ve already gone to several times over the years. If we had to pay $35 I’m not sure we would have stayed to view the waterfall. We also felt price gouged and skipped a couple local interests we would have liked to visit but felt the price was too much. $3 for a cucumber and $5 for a bell pepper? The fact that everything is so expensive will stop some people from visiting–or at least. not visiting as long or as often.

I love visiting Kauai. However, I keep reading articles about limiting visitors to beaches such as Tunnels and having ti make reservations months ahead. Also, so many articles about how the locals don’t want us there. There was one article with a huge list of places the locals don’t want us to go, and it was practically every bite able beach and landmark. I do not feel welcome.

All of this is good for our islands.. but sucks for us that have been displaced and living away from our home. There is no discounts for born and raised Hawaiians to go home and visit.

I agree….I had to leave my home because I could not afford to live there any longer. Does that mean former kama’aina are not welcome either? Where’s the aloha?

I booked our accommodations on the BI for next year three months ago. We will be staying for 10 weeks. Anyway, used the same management company but split our stay between two units, based upon availability. One of the units is currently for sale and under contract. Concerned that the new owner might not be willing to honor our reservation, I cancelled our reservation and extended our stay on the other unit for the entire 10 weeks. I was then offered a 10% discount–I am interpreting this as a “softening” of rates. The management company also refunded my deposit on the 1st unit in full.

I honestly think a lot of the issue is the state cracking down on Airbnb’s and VRBO units. They made it more affordable for the regular family. Who can afford $300 plus per night is a hotel, eating out constantly and the other expenses associated. Atleast the state should start re issuing TVU’s to owners that want to do short term rentals.

Pat G: Interesting. We would always rent a place on Maui at a low rise oceanfront development. We have been going there since 1995. A three br OF depending on the unit usually ran $400 – $500 a day – once Covid hit the price has skyrocketed to as much as $1000 – $1500/day. Better than a hotel if you figure 3 br, but honestly that is a huge increase and not affordable.

I agree – I know I could never afford that. It is still half the price of 3 rooms in the hotels around there, though, plus you get a full kitchen, large lanai, etc.

About your oceanfront condo….If you go one block away from the water on Maui, you can get beautiful, large 2-bedroom condos with ocean views for $350 to $600 depending on the season. That’s a no brainer, IMO.

PAT G Agreed, but I come to see the Ocean. I live in San Diego and can drive to it, but when I’m on Maui I want to see, hear and smell it every minute.

How about these:

airbnb.com/rooms/23482500?source_impression_id=p3_1687544654_fWwUKPA%2FdB4SHOAq

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Can Hawaii reset its stressed out tourism industry after the pandemic?

The islands has been feeling the weight of a tourism industry that has ballooned to what many believe is beyond the islands’ capacity

On a recent Sunday morning, Makua Beach looks like the picture of paradise.

A stretch of soft, yellow sand lies on a strip of land between the lush Waianae mountain range and the deep blue Pacific Ocean on the north-west coast of Oahu. Waves crash against rocks along the beach, and a monk seal can be seen swimming near the shore.

While this is a place that would make a striking Instagram post for visitors, it has become a source of sadness for Micah Doane. His grandmother’s family was one of many who were evicted from the area to make way for military training infrastructure during the second world war. Doane grew up taking trips to Makua with his family, including his grandmother’s brother, Ivanhoe Naiwi, who shared the heartache of the family’s displacement and passion for preserving the area with Doane.

“All of our trips down here as youngsters were with him. He kind of raised us out here,” Doane said. “As a kid growing up, we became protective over the place.”

About an hour’s drive from Honolulu, Makua has historically been remote from the bustling crowds of Waikiki. But over the last decade, Doane has seen an influx of visitors coming to Makua Beach, especially as people started tagging the “secret” beach on social media. On this particular Sunday, the parking area outside the beach is packed early with beachgoers, some of whom brought snorkeling gear to catch a glimpse of dolphins.

Doane has long been concerned about the impact snorkelers have on the Hawaiian spinner dolphins, who use the area as a place to sleep.

Makua is also popular for a cave hike, which is illegal, and camping on the beach, also illegal. With no bathrooms nearby, strands of toilet paper can be seen in bushes along the beach along with other trash that accumulates in the area.

A co-founder of Protectors of Paradise, a non-profit that promotes stewardship in the area, Doane and a group of volunteers hold weekly beach cleanups and try to educate visitors on how to respect the area. Yet the group can only cover so much ground.

“You see every day these disrespectful people come and do whatever they want … You have your kids that are getting older, and our parents’ generation and our kupuna [elders] that are getting older, and you think it’s sad that they’re not able to enjoy these things,” Doane said. “It’s to the point where it’s kind of hurt an entire community.”

This area on the west side of Oahu is just one of many places throughout the islands that has been feeling the weight of a tourism industry that has ballooned to what many believe is beyond the islands’ capacity.

A rise in vacation rentals, of which there were 23,000 in the islands in 2018, and the growth of social media saw more tourists visiting Hawaii and increasingly going into its more residential and protected areas. In 2019, 10 million visitors came to Hawaii, which has a population of about 1.5 million. It was the highest number of tourists in a single year the islands had seen in its history.

The phenomenon, known as overtourism , has seen travelers overwhelm not just Hawaii but many of the US national parks and has frustrated residents in cities around Europe , like Venice and Barcelona, and elsewhere.

The Covid-19 pandemic delivered an unusual mixture of pain from economic loss and relief to residents of places that have gotten used to crowds of tourists. In Hawaii, locals hiked popular trails and visited beaches that are usually clogged by tourists. Traffic was noticeably lighter, and things in the islands were generally calmer.

Things are already looking much different in 2021. About 30,000 travelers are now flying into Hawaii each day, over 80% of the number of travelers that were flying in during the same time in 2019. Around the islands, it seems that tourism as it was before the pandemic is coming back.

While that means jobs are back, surveys from the Hawaii Tourism Authority (HTA), the state’s tourism agency, have shown local residents are taking on an increasingly negative opinion of tourism, even in light of the pandemic. In 2020, over half of the respondents to the survey agreed that tourism had brought more problems than benefits.

“There’s an understanding, even within the [tourism] industry … based upon our experience in 2019, that tourism shouldn’t come back the way it was – an unmanaged state,” said Frank Haas, a tourism industry expert based at the University of Hawaii (UH). “That in my mind is pretty clear. The question is, who’s going to pick up the torch and develop a good management plan?”

A balancing act

The parking lot of Hanauma Bay nature preserve, a popular beach and snorkeling spot for visitors on the southern tip of Oahu, is completely empty, save for a few employee cars. The spot would typically be open on this Monday and packed with visitors. But after the pandemic, the Honolulu parks department, which manages the beach, closed the beach for an additional day so the bay gets rest two days each week.

“You can see how clear the waters are right now because it’s a closed day. When you come and it’s an open day, it’ll be very milky, [with sand] stirred up by all the visitors,” said Ku’ulei Rodgers, a researcher with the Hawaii Institute of Marine Biology at UH. This sedimentation can affect the health of coral colonies in the preserve, the larger of which have been dying over the last few years.

Rodgers and other researchers at UH have utilized the pandemic as an opportunity to better study the impact visitors have on Hanauma Bay. Along with clearer waters, the researchers noticed schools of larger fish, like jackfish and milkfish, foraging in the bay and even spotted a few monk seals resting on the beach for the first time in years.

While the bay is a beautiful spot to lounge and snorkel for humans, it is an important refuge for fish. A lack of predators in the bay and low impacts from heavy storm surf and freshwater make the bay a uniquely safe place for fish, of which there have been up to 400 species in the preserve.

While impacts from visitors pale in comparison with the effects of climate change, which has caused devastating bleaching events in the bay’s water, Honolulu’s parks department has for years taken on a series of measures to curtail overcrowding at the preserve.

To enter Hanauma Bay, along with paying a $12 fee, visitors must watch a 10-minute education video on the history and importance of the bay as a nature preserve. In December, when the city reopened Hanauma Bay to visitors, it halved the number of people who could watch the video at once, essentially halving the number of visitors who can visit Hanauma Bay each day to just over 1,000.

The parks department is continuously evaluating the bay’s visitor capacity, teaming up with Rodgers and other researchers to find the balance between access to Hanauma Bay and protection of it.

“[The research] is a big tool for us to determine where that sweet spot is, what’s the right number of people visiting where we can get them in and have them enjoy this beautiful natural treasure but at the same time not having a completely detrimental impact on the nature that’s attracting them,” said Nathan Serota, a spokesperson for the Honolulu department of parks and recreation.

Hanauma Bay’s reservation system has existed for years, but after the massive number of tourists in recent years, the state is starting to implement similar systems at other popular tourist spots to combat overcrowding.

After severe flooding closed Haena state park on Kauai to visitors in 2018, local residents were treated to empty roads and beaches. The state’s department of land and natural resources (DLNR) worked with the local community to develop a reservation system that caps the number of visitors at the park at 900, down from the 3,000 before the flood.

Along with setting up reservation systems, the state is also turning toward increased fees in an attempt to control crowds. The fee to hike O​ahu’s famous Diamond Head volcanic cone have doubled for out-of-state visitors, it now costs $90 to park a vehicle carrying over 26 people. And the state legislature is considering a bill that would implement a $20 “green fee” – which places like Palau and Bhutan have implemented – that would go toward a fund to promote the state’s environmental goals.

“We’re more cognizant of the impacts that tourism has,” Serota said. “You’re starting to see that you can’t just have a policy of let’s bring in as many tourists and possible and reap the benefits. Now we have to look at managing it more effectively to see how we can create an experience and not have a negative impact on the local population as well.”

Destination management

But change isn’t going to be easy. In its last five-year strategic plan, released in 2020 before the pandemic, HTA said that destination management – a term that in recent years has been used to describe the solutions to overtourism – has become a major focus of the agency, which has historically been in charge of the state’s tourism marketing. “The continuous drive to increase visitor numbers has taken its toll on our natural environment and people,” the agency said in its plan .

Over the last few months, HTA has released three action plans for destination management on Kauai, Maui and the Big Island. It expects to release Oahu’s plan later this summer.

The influx of visitors seen at the end of 2019 “was enough to start driving our work in a direction to say how do we transition from a destination marketing organization to a destination management organization?” said Kalani Kaanaana, director of Hawaiian cultural affairs and natural resources at HTA.

Kaanaana was one of 14 Native Hawaiian authors who put out a declaration calling for action toward long-term sustainability in the islands, including managing the relationship between residents and visitors. Nearly 3,000 individuals, community groups and businesses, including HTA, have signed on to the declaration.

Destination management will not be an easy task for HTA as the agency faces limited authority to carry out some of its recommendations. Regulation of short-term vacation rentals, for example, which greatly affects the number of tourists, is handled on a county level. And the state’s legislature recently moved to cut HTA funding and strip the agency of some of its responsibilities, with legislators saying the agency should focus on marketing.

Haas, a former vice-president of HTA, said state leaders, who have been enmeshed in the complicated politics of tourism, need to develop a coordinated plan to address tourism for any long-term change to happen.

“At least in the short term, we don’t have a lot of viable options for tourism as an economic driver,” said Haas. “We really need to figure out how to thoughtfully manage and until we do that, it’s just going to be haphazard.”

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Hawaii News

Hawaii tourism drops, with recovery expected in 2024.

• By Allison Schaefers [email protected]
• Oct. 31, 2023

CRAIG T. KOJIMA / [email protected]

Above, Honolua Surf Co. manager Jasmine Pentecostes, left, helped visitor Dianna Ottoboni at the store Monday.

Above, Ilona Tarno­vetska, left, with daughter Olivia, and Oxana Kardash, with sons Daniel and Lev, enjoyed Kamaole Beach Park III in Kihei on Monday.

Demand for travel to Hawaii has fallen, especially on Maui, and travel industry experts say it’s not expected to materially recover until 2024. Read more

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Demand for travel to Hawaii has fallen, especially on Maui, and travel industry experts say it’s not expected to materially recover until 2024.

Jack Richards, president and CEO of Pleasant Holidays, said travel to Hawaii was up 16.5% for 2024 before the Maui wildfires in August, and is now negative statewide.

“We are off by double digits from October to April. Recovery will build gradually over time, but we don’t believe that we’ll get back to historic levels before May or June,” he said. “Right now, demand is well below historic levels for Maui. It’s the fires, (high) prices and mixed messaging. People are unsure about coming to Hawaii.”

Some of what Richards is talking about is a continuation of what is already showing up in preliminary statistics released Monday by the Department of Business, Economic Development and Tourism. The numbers showed that the sluggish return of visitors to Maui after the August wildfires and to the state from North America caused September arrivals and nominal spending statewide to drop year-over-year for the second month in a row.

Some 651,286 visitors came to the Hawaiian Islands in September, down 7.4% from September 2022 and moving the pre- pandemic arrivals recovery back to 88.5% from September 2019, according to DBEDT data.

Nominal visitor spending, which hasn’t been adjusted to show the relative price over time, fell 9.6% to $1.37 billion in September. However, nominal spending in September was still 10.2% higher than in September 2o19, when it was $1.25 billion.

Year-over-year September results varied across the islands, according to DBEDT data. Visitors to Oahu in September rose 12.5% to 433,209, while nominal spending fell -3.2% to $676.6 million.

Kauai arrivals rose 10.3% to 115,305 in September, and nominal spending increased 28.9% to $224.2 million.

Hawaii island visitors rose 8.6% to 129,444. Nominal spending on Hawaii island increased 28.7% to $254.8 million.

However, arrivals to Maui plummeted 57.1% to 94,221 visitors in September, while nominal spending plunged 52.6% to $203.2 million.

DBEDT Director James Kunane Tokioka said in a statement, “The impacts from the Maui wildfires were significant in September 2023 with both visitor arrivals and visitor expenditures down by more than 50 percent for Maui for the month compared to 2022.”

Tokioka added, “Visitor arrivals on Maui in September 2023 (94,221) recorded the lowest since February 2021 and visitor spending of $203.2 million on Maui in September 2023 was the lowest since March 2021.With the reopening of West Maui that started in October, tourism on Maui is expected to improve over the next few months.”

Mayor Maui Richard Bissen recently announced that West Maui, which had been undergoing a phased reopening since the deadly Aug. 8 Lahaina fire, would fully reopen Wednesday. While Maui bookings have improved slightly since then, hotel occupancy at Maui hotels is not even close to normal, said Keith Vieira, principal of KV &Associates, Hospitality Consulting.

“First quarter will probably be back to 50% of 2023 in Kaanapali, but Wailea will be better than that,” Vieira said.

Richards said Maui is a major reason for the decline in September demand as well as future demand for Hawaii as a whole.

But that’s only part of the equation. U.S. travel demand, in general, is undergoing a more pronounced seasonal slowdown than normal. Also, Hawaii is no longer the No. 1 travel destination for Japanese travelers, who since summer have favored South Korea.

While Labor Day boosted travel by U.S. households early in the month, data from the Omnitrak Travel Market Penetration Index showed that demand slowed below prior-year levels for September overall.

Chris Kam, Omnitrak president and chief operating officer, said in a statement, “While the usual seasonal slowdown in September is not surprising, the dip in travel was more pronounced than expected.”

“With September travel penetration aligning more closely with 2021 than prior year levels, residents in communities with overtourism concerns are experiencing some ‘breathing space’ in the Fall shoulder period following a strong summer,” Kam said.

Omnitrak founder and CEO Pat Loui said in a statement that a reason is that “international destinations continued to attract U.S. travelers in September (+18.1%), according to the National Travel and Tourism Office’s year-over-year data.”

Loui added that the “U.S. Travel Association’s Travel Price Index rose +4.4% over prior year levels, adding rising prices to the challenging marketplace conditions facing domestic destinations in September.”

To be sure, Hawaii’s largest tourist source market, the U.S. West, saw September arrivals drop to 329,187. It was a sharp 16.7% year-over-year drop — however, up 7.6% from September 2019.

Nominal spending from the U.S. West fell to $606 million, a 21.8% decrease from September 2022 but a 30% increase from September 2019.

Arrivals from the U.S. East, Hawaii’s second-largest tourist source market, fell 1o.1% to 153,635 visitors. Nominal visitor spending from the U.S. East declined 3.9% to $404.1 million; however, it was 39.9% higher than September 2019.

Japan rebounded enough to reclaim its place as Hawaii’s third-largest source market. Arrivals from Japan in September rose 87.9% year-over-year to 51,350 visitors; however that was still down 64.3% from the pre-pandemic September 2019, when 143,928 visitors from Japan came to Hawaii.

Visitors from Japan spent $79.6 million on a nominal basis in September 2023. That was up 66.5% from September 2022 but down 59.5% from September 2019 when nominal spending reached $196.5 million.

Eric Takahata, managing director of the Hawaii Tourism Authority’s contractor Hawaii Tourism Japan, said arrivals from Japan are still forecast by year’s end to be about 40% to 50% recovered to 2019. Takahata said early reports from major Japanese carriers are forecasting that arrivals from Japan to Hawaii will recover to within 70% to 80% of 2019 sometime in 2024.

The recovery of Japanese visitors to Hawaii is still challenged by unfavorable exchange rates and U.S. inflation, which is exacerbating price hikes, he said.

Takahata said while carriers have begun restoring capacity between Japan and Hawaii, some have told him that manpower issues are affecting operations and routes. He said it was good news that Delta resumed flying between Japan and Hawaii in October.

Hawaiian Airlines also restarted nonstop service between Tokyo Haneda and Kona on Sunday. Hawaiian Airlines will gradually return to its original thrice-weekly schedule in March. Hawaiian paused the route in March 2020 due to the COVID-19 pandemic. By March 13, the airline said, it expects Japan capacity will be 59% above summer 2023 levels.

Takahata said another issue affecting recovery of Japanese visitors to Hawaii is the amount of competition from destinations like South Korea, Australia, Singapore, Southeast Asia and Europe, he said.

“A lot of Japanese suppliers tell us, ‘If we can go to Rome for eight days and it’s the same cost as a four-day trip to Hawaii and the hotel categories are one or two categories up that we’ll do Europe now and put Hawaii off for a bit,” he said.

Takahata said HTA recently returned Hawaii Tourism Japan’s budget to $9 million, the 2019 level. He said it had been at $6.5 million or less for the past couple of years; meanwhile, competitive destinations were getting an edge on Hawaii.

“Singapore prior to the pandemic was the sixth or seventh most desired destination to go by Japanese. Now they are the third,” Takahata said. “Hawaii used to be No. 1, but we are third now. This summer we flip-flopped with Korea.”

He said Hawaii Tourism Japan has launched a new campaign called “Beautiful Hawaii,” which is “more about coming to Hawaii than coming to Hawaii properly.” The campaign includes the values of the Malama Hawaii campaign, which focused on caring for Hawaii, but it doesn’t lead with it, Takahata said.

Richards said the messaging in Hawaii’s core U.S. market got confusing after the Maui wildfires and now needs some tweaks, too.

“They have a dual mission,” Richards said. “They have to obviously appease the community and be very sensitive to the community and at the same time promote tourism to get the Maui economy back in order. I think that’s a delicate balance, and it’s very complex to do that.”

He said the result, so far, has been unclear messaging. Negative social media coupled with official messaging about how to travel to Maui also has raised concerns about resident sentiment toward travelers, Richards said.

“People aren’t sure that they will be welcomed. If they are celebrating an anniversary or a wedding, they want to know that they can do so freely and not have to feel bad,” Richards said.

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Maui police release lahaina body camera footage.

Will Hawaii legalize weed? The fight for recreational marijuana is complicated

Hawaii’s state senate recently made headlines after overwhelmingly approving a bill to legalize recreational marijuana by 2026, but its passage into law is far from certain, given the state’s complicated history with cannabis.

The bill is opposed by both Democrats and Republicans, including Honolulu Prosecutor Steve Alm (D), Hawaii Attorney General Anne E. Lopez (D), and former Republican Governor Linda Lingle (R). They’re concerned about an overall increase in youth consumption, addiction rates, and the potential boost to Hawaii’s black market.

According to Colin Moore, a political science professor at the University of Hawaii, the state’s anti-recreational marijuana coalition has been “a little more organized than they’ve been in the past.”

“Expanded decriminalization of marijuana may increase recreational use in a way similar to legalization,” Lopez’s office wrote in submitted testimony related to the bill. “However, decriminalized marijuana is unregulated, untested, and untaxed. This lack of regulation and testing creates a significant public health concern, particularly as marijuana use increases.”

More: Florida Supreme Court OKs ballot measure allowing recreational pot

Prep for the polls: See who is running for president and compare where they stand on key issues in our Voter Guide

Local law enforcement officials have also raised alarms about the potential ramifications of legalization, expressing concerns about impaired driving and the impact on public safety. Moreover, the state’s economic reliance on tourism, particularly from Japan, raises questions about how legalization could affect visitor perceptions and industry dynamics.

“Hawaii is the only Pacific state without recreational marijuana. The social conservatism here is something that is often lost, and I think that is something driving the fact that this fails year after year after year,” Moore said. “And I think that people who are opposed are, I mean, this for them can be a voting issue.”

The Aloha State was the first in the U.S. to legalize medical marijuana in 2000 and decriminalize personal use in 2019; efforts to legalize recreational cannabis have repeatedly stalled in the state house . This pattern underscores the deep-rooted divisions within Hawaii’s political establishment, where even a Democratic majority does not guarantee support for progressive legalization.

Despite these challenges, the bill still has a number of fans in the state legislature, who remain steadfast in their belief that legalization is long overdue. Advocates argue that regulation and taxation of marijuana would promote public health, reduce criminalization, and generate revenue for the state at a time when it desperately needs it. Hawaii’s tourism-driven economy continues to suffer nearly eight months after wildfires decimated Lahaina in August.

“The decriminalization of cannabis is far overdue. People use cannabis. Decades of rigorous prosecution, imprisonment, and forfeiture have not changed this simple fact,” State Sen. Karl Rhoads (D) wrote in submitted testimony related to the bill. 

More: Most Americans want legal pot. Here's why feds are taking so long to change old rules.

Hawaii Gov. Josh Green (D), a licensed physician, said he will sign the bill into law if the House passes it. He recently told Hawaii News that marijuana could have beneficial side effects in mitigating the impact of other drugs. 

“I have some thoughts that marijuana might blunt the effect, if you will, of people on these heavy drugs, these horrible drugs,” Green said. “It is a relative sedative. People are far less violent. They are much hungrier, but they, aside from snacking and stealing Cheetos, will probably do less harm.”

A poll conducted by the non-profit advocacy firm Pacific Resource Partnership found that 58% of Hawaii residents support legalizing recreational marijuana. A slight majority that Moore said is “noteworthy” but “significantly lower” than similar polls in other West Coast and blue states.

Jeremy Yurow is a politics reporting fellow based in Hawaii for the USA TODAY Network. You can reach him at [email protected] or on X @JeremyYurow

Community Voice

How To Better Manage Hawaii’s Tourism Hotspots

There is no perfect approach to managing large numbers of people in small places, but there are successes.

By Peter Adler

February 28, 2023 · 4 min read

About the Author

Peter Adler

Peter Adler is a planner and mediator with a particular focus on issues that involve challenging technical and public policy challenges.

Preoccupations with tourism shift. At the moment, they are moving into discussions about regenerative tourism and bills for new tourism “governance” at the Legislature.

This may be driven in part by debates over “marketing” and “management” among tourism experts and the more immediate high stakes contractual dispute between the Council for Native Hawaiian Advancement and the Hawaii Visitors and Convention Bureau .

Given the inescapable reality of the hospitality industry in our economy, the state’s assigned roles and responsibilities are important discussions. But there are other matters.

Tourist carrying capacity and destination management issues linger. Gross state carrying capacity numbers (8 million? 10 million? 12 million?) are not that helpful.

Big numbers generate a lot of buzz but they obscure important detail. The carrying capacity concept is best used when applied at ground level because, that’s where the rubber meets the road and that’s where communities tend to experience potholes, speed bumps and traffic jams on the tourism road.

Applied to specific sites, numbers are hugely important and a perfect focus for smart engagement and careful planning.

To its credit, the Hawaii Tourism Authority undertook broad consultations with island-based Steering Committees and produced Destination Mapping Action Plans (“DMAPS”) for each county to be implemented from 2021 to 2024. The idea was to reset tourism in each county.

Beyond their situational analyses, forecasts, and guidance, the DMAPs identified specific hotspots on each island that needed attention, many of them involving wider community pushback. Flashpoint examples, to name just a few, were Kailua Beach and Town on Oahu, Moomomi Beach on Molokai, and Waipio Valley on Hawaii island.

There is no single, perfect approach to managing large numbers of people in small places but there are successes.

Online reservations at Hanauma Bay, for parking at Haena State Park, and for trail reservations at Kalalau help a lot and show inventive applications of technologies but the more sprawling an issue is in its impacts, the greater the need for well-informed local problem solving. Outside expertise coupled with local knowledge and wisdom can produce less sub-optimum and more acceptable outcomes.

One enabling aspect of achieving better “balancing” arrangements can happen before or when communities reach a tipping point and get angry. Early and constructive negotiations with communities and neighborhoods around hotspots can be developed when there is good leadership from public, private, and civic sector representatives empowered to analyze options and construct solutions.

However, there is a fine old proverb that says, “Never test the depth of the stream with both feet.” The right kind of initial working group to design approaches could potentially create the model and pave the way for pilot projects through four specific products:

• A set of agreed upon principles for the practical management of future encounters between communities, industry, hospitality unions, and government when over-tourism is at issue;
• a procedural template with a set of corresponding best practices that negotiators can use to set up and help guide consultations;
• a checklist for leaders in all four sectors on how to prepare for organized discussions, productively talk with respect and integrity around stubborn issues, and produce actual performance results; and
• a roadmap for creating an actual test in a community or neighborhood.

Productive discussions of this sort require legitimacy and credibility. If there is a will to do so by HTA and its future subcontractors, a working group made up of community, government, industry, and hospitality union representatives can be assembled to review community hot spots, explore the ideas, identify drivers and constraints, and report back to HTA, the Legislature, and all others interested in taming the problem of over-tourism and community impacts and benefits.

“The way out,” said Robert Frost, “is always through.”

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Community Voices aims to encourage broad discussion on many topics of community interest. It’s kind of a cross between Letters to the Editor and op-eds. This is your space to talk about important issues or interesting people who are making a difference in our world. Column lengths should be no more than 800 words and we need a photo of the author and a bio. We welcome video commentary and other multimedia formats. Send to [email protected] . The opinions and information expressed in Community Voices are solely those of the authors and not Civil Beat.

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Latest Comments (0)

You've got multi-billion dollar industries who are "making bank" off of jamming as many people into planes, hotels, roads, beaches, trails, reefs, swimming holes and on and on. Numbers are hugely important, and not just for specific sites.

Fred_Garvin · 1 year ago

Something that would help is to stop busing tourists somewhere, dropping them off & maxing out the place. Case in point: Halona Blow hole/ cockroach cove- it has become Waikiki part 2. It is 'standing room only' down there on the weekend now. The small parking lot used to at least help keep the numbers down there. Not anymore- trolleys from Waikiki are constantly busing them in and dropping them off. Thank you, tourism industry vultures. It's getting near-impossible to find anywhere to escape anymore.

CSH · 1 year ago

I am a 50+ year resident of Hawaii. I love it here. I wouldn’t want to live anywhere else. I’ve had tourist friends of mine from Australia, New Zealand, Japan, South America and (yes) the mainland come and visit me and Hawaii. All have marveled at the natural beauty that abounds here. What they don’t understand is the amount of trash that is left in some of these remote ares we’ve gone to. The abandoned cars, mattresses, sofas, tables, junk,etc. nor the unbelievable thievery that goes on at many of the more accessible and "touristy " places they have gone to on their own. Neither can I…While Waikiki will get the pilau tourist that disregards trash cans and their own opala, I’ve yet to see any tourist dump rubbish cans, rummage through it and just walk away. Nor, destroy the toilets. Or the roving gangs that will prey on anyone that looks "non-local" , sigh. I try to explain it away and make it a priority to clean up after ourselves and pick up more at anywhere I go or take them but feel a bit overwhelmed at times. As one of my Aussie friends says "it ain’t the bloody tourist, mate. You need to clean up locally first" . That is a bit harsh and know many local folks feel the same way.

blanez · 1 year ago

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Lou Conter, last survivor of USS Arizona in Pearl Harbor bombing, dies in California at 102

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Lou Conter, the last survivor of the battleship USS Arizona, which sank during the Japanese bombing of Pearl Harbor in 1941, died at his home in Grass Valley, Calif., on Monday. He was 102.

Conter — who was just 20 years old on the morning of the attack and had only joined the military two years earlier — was surrounded by family and died peacefully, according to Pacific Historic Parks, a nonprofit that helps maintain the USS Arizona Memorial and other historic landmarks in Hawaii. The nonprofit confirmed Conter’s death through his daughter.

The Arizona was the centerpiece of the carnage that morning. Of the more than 2,400 service members and civilians killed that day, nearly half — 1,177 — were sailors and Marines aboard the Arizona. As Japanese bombers lay waste to Pearl Harbor’s “battleship row,” explosions ignited a massive amount of gunpowder stored on the Arizona. The resulting explosion lifted the ship “30 to 40 feet out of the water,” Conter said during a January 2008 interview with the Library of Congress’ Veterans History Project .

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The surprise attack, which vaulted the U.S. into World War II, was the deadliest foreign assault on U.S. soil before the Sept. 11, 2001, terror attacks claimed nearly 3,000 lives in New York, Washington, D.C., and Pennsylvania.

Conter, a quartermaster, was lauded for helping rescue fellow crew members during the attack, according to the Pacific Historic Parks post. After the bombing, Conter remained enlisted until 1945, flying combat missions throughout World War II, according to his interview with the Veterans History Project. He also served in the Korean War in the 1950s and reached the rank of lieutenant commander.

Despite the traumatic events of that day, Conter was no stranger to the USS Arizona memorial in Honolulu. In 2016, he told a Times reporter that he visited the wrecked battleship every Dec. 7 to stand aboard the Arizona as wreaths were laid to remember his fallen comrades.

“There were 335 [sic] of us on the ship that got off that day,” he said in 2016 as he stood near the ship he almost died on decades earlier. “We were just lucky.”

Even at 95, Conter knew exactly where he was standing when the attack began.

“I was on the quarterdeck, just about where we are,” he told The Times. “Everything from right over there forward blew up and was on fire.”

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James Queally writes about crime and policing in Southern California, where he currently covers Los Angeles County’s criminal courts, the district attorney’s office and juvenile justice issues for the Los Angeles Times.

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