trek mamba bottom bracket

• Bikes / Frames
• Sealants & Flat Protection
• Tubeless Tape & Kits
• Tubeless Valve Stems
• Misc. Valve Parts
• Suspension Forks
• Rigid Forks
• Fork Parts / Service
• Rear Shock Parts / Service
• Groupsets / Drivetrain Bundles
• Cranks / Cranksets
• Crank Parts
• Bottom Brackets
• Rear Derailleurs
• Derailleur Hangers / Parts
• Chainguides
• Chainring Bolts
• Chain Tensioners
• Single Speed Cogs / Kits
• Front Derailleurs
• MTB Right Hand Shifters
• MTB Shifter Sets
• MTB Left Hand Shifters
• Drop-bar Right Hand Shifters
• Drop-bar Left Hand Shifters
• Drop-bar Shifter Sets
• Drop-bar Hydraulic Brake / Shift Levers
• Shifter Parts
• MTB Handlebars
• Drop Bars (Gravel, CX, Road)
• Handlebar Tape
• Disc Brakes
• Disc Brake Rotors
• Disc Brake Adaptors
• Disc Brake Parts
• Road Caliper Brakes
• Cable Pull Brake Levers
• Dropper Posts
• Dropper Post Remotes / Levers
• Rigid Seatposts
• Seatpost Parts / Shims / Misc.
• Seatpost Clamps
• Suspension Seatposts
• Saddles / Seats
• Flat Pedals
• Clipless Pedals
• Pedal Small Parts
• Front Wheels
• Rear Wheels
• Rim Tape & Kits
• Complete Headsets
• Headset Spacers
• Headset Parts
• Shifter Cable & Housing
• Brake Cable & Housing
• Misc. Cable Parts
• Multi-Tools
• Chain & Other Lube
• Fork Oils & Lubes
• Grease & Assembly Compound
• Repair Stands
• General Bike Tools
• Hex / Allen Wrenches
• Component Specific Tools
• Tire & Tube Repair
• Frame Tools
• Wheel Tools
• Cleaning Tools
• Degreaser / Cleaners
• Shop Supplies
• Hitch Racks
• Tailgate Pad / Bed Mounts
• Trunk Racks
• Spare Tire Racks
• Rack Accessories & Small Parts
• Frame Straps
• Floor Pumps & Parts
• CO2 Inflation Devices & Cartridges
• Shock Pumps & Tuning Tools
• Frame / Mini Pumps
• Chainstay / Frame Protectors / Fenders
• Bike GPS / Computers
• Computer Mounts / Accessories / Parts
• Camera Mounts / Accessories
• Hydration Packs / Hip Pack / Backpacks
• Top Tube / Stem Bags
• Frame Packs
• Phone / Electronic Bags & Cases
• Night Riding Lights
• Safety / Tail Lights
• Light Parts / Mounts
• Water Bottles
• Water Bottle Cages
• Gift Ideas / Novelties
• Rear Wheel Trainers
• Roller Trainers
• Trainer Accessories / Parts
• Bike Travel / Shipping Cases
• Bars and Snacks
• Drink Mixes
• Supplements / Minerals
• Cable Locks
• Chain Locks
• Folding Locks
• Storage Racks / Stands
• Knee Pads / Shin / Leg Protection
• Elbow Pads / Arm Protection
• Torso Protection
• Padded / Protective Short Liners / Chamois
• Sunglasses / Accessories
• Chamois / Short Liners / Base Layer
• Chamois Creams / Embrocations / Butt'r
• Jackets / Vests / Hoodies / Flannels
• Tees / Shirts
• Hoodies / Flannels / Jackets
• Top Secret Sales (Do Not Tell!)
• Help / FAQ's
• Contact Us / Locations
• Call Us | 1-805-375-4525
• Why Shop With Us?

Currency: USD BRL CAD EUR AUD GBP RUB CLP NZD

• Continue Shopping
• Your Cart is Empty

FREE U.S. SHIPPING ON EVERYTHING!

• USD BRL CAD EUR AUD GBP RUB CLP NZD

What Size Bottom Bracket Do I Need (Size Really DOES Matter) [Video]

Words by: Liam Woods

For those who are looking to upgrade the cranks on your mountain bike, or just need a replacement bottom bracket , it's very important to make sure you get the correct bottom bracket for the job. With so many “standard” sizes available, it may seem overly complicated and that’s why we are here to help! The two major dimensions that differentiate bottom brackets of similar types are the shell width and spindle diameter. Hopefully, we can help clarify some of the more common bottom bracket sizes so that upgrading your cranks can be a simpler process. 

Because there are so many different bottom bracket variations, we think it is very important to always match the manufacturer of the cranks and bottom bracket to ensure the proper fit.

English Threaded

English Threaded 83mm

BB30 and PF30

Spindle size

English Threaded:

This is the oldest/longest standing BB shell type we know of. It was far more common before carbon was so popular but still very relevant. Tons of bikes use this from road to mountain and even some BMX race frames. A threaded shell housing the bearings threads directly into the frame where the bearings remain external. The major benefit to using a threaded bottom bracket is how much more secure the fitment is compared to a press fit system that is more likely to creek .

It's also easier to work on as a home mechanic as you only need a special wrench to remove/install it. No need for an expensive and complex bearing press tool that you would need with any type of press-fit BB. Funny things have happened around this design - back in the day the bearings sat inside the shell, remember square taper BB's? Those still used a 68/73 English shell. But then came outboard bearings; same shell but now everything was designed differently to allow for bigger bearings and better weight distribution making things stiffer and stronger.

Then many manufactures realized why use the threaded cups at all and in came PF92, BB30, PF and the others. But just now in the last year or so many people are demanding the old 68/73 English shell back because it's easier to work on and also seems to make less noise. By noise I mean creaking - press fit BB's are kind of notorious for creaking. This is more common in areas where you ride in mud and rain often. But when a press fit BB is creaking you need a rack of tools, knowledge and time to take them off, re-lube and re-install. But with a 68/73, it is a much less intensive operation to take it out, clean and lube it.

That whole topic is controversial depending on who you ask. Either way, some frame manufacturers are responding to this and doing away with press-fit BB's all together and others are holding their ground and keeping press-fit to save weight and cost. Our own opinion on this is that press-fit works great when two things happen:

1) Its a high end bike made very well. If the tolerances are sub-par because it's a budget $2k complete mountain bike or something like that, it'll likely have issues.

2) Everything is installed perfectly with the proper tools by someone who truly knows what they are doing.

This is a delicate process that is easy to mess up and many home mechanics are out there slamming in the BB's with a mallet and then complaining they creak and thinking it is the fault of the design. That kind of behavior warrants a great term...face palm.    

The 68mm and 73mm dimension measure the width of the bottom bracket on the frame of the bike with no BB installed, simply the width of the shell. Most road bikes that use a threaded bottom bracket measure 68mm wide and most cross country/trail mountain bikes measure 73mm. Multiple spacers are included in order to fit both sizes meaning if you see a BB for sale that says 68/73 it means it will fit both but it includes a couple spacers in the box to make it fit the 68, those spacers (or fewer of them) are not needed if the shell is 73mm wide.  Bottom Bracket and crank manufacturers continue to make their setups work with this English threaded frames. Everything from SRAM , Shimano, Raceface, E*thirteen, Praxis, Hope and many more. Although Spindle sizes may vary, the threaded english threaded system is tried and true.

English Threaded 83mm:

The 83mm English threaded bottom bracket uses the same design as the 68/73mm system but measures 83mm wide. This is most usually seen on downhill mountain bikes in order to maintain the most efficient chainline.  

BB92 is a shell type that is quite common on high end mountain bikes of many brands. Also sometimes referred to as Shimano press fit or pressfit GXP, this BB uses a bearing housed in a nylon or metal shell that when pressed into the shell measures 92mm wide . This standard was originally designed by Shimano utilizing a 24mm spindle, then Sram came along to make the same thing also intending use of a 24mm spindle which they like to call their GXP spindle, that is 24mm/ 22mm stepped. (Not to be confused with their BB30 spindle which is 30mm in diameter).

More recently, companies like Raceface and   E.13 have designed a system that uses a 30mm crank spindle and a BB92 bottom bracket . The reason some brands like RaceFace and E.13 designed a 30mm spindle crank and BB to work in a BB92 is because the 30mm spindle is stiffer, stronger and lighter but a big number of high end mountain bikes use BB92. So to get that awesome 30mm spindle in a BB92 shell type they had to design a pretty thin bearing.  Similar to the bb30/pf30, having a BB92 shell and a 30mm spindle with a small bearing tends to have a shorter life. Although still tough and many of us do run this combo, if riding in high mud or grit areas this might not be the best combo.

BB30 and PF30:

These are both BB shell types and designed for cranks with a 30mm spindle, however you can use either of these shell types with a 24mm spindle with the use of an adapter if you wanted to. With BB30, the bearings press directly into the frame with only a small removable clip behind them to keep them in place. BB30 bottom brackets are far more common on road bikes and are designed around being very light.

A PF30 bottom bracket holds the bearings inside of a nylon or metal shell that is then pressed into the frame as a unit. This is fairly common among mountain bikes (especially Specialized) but getting less common as BB92 is becoming more and more popular for various reasons.  Both of these pressfit style bottom brackets have their own issues, creaking and cost of manufacturing to name a couple. While working great, many compaies in the mountain bike world have gone away from BB30 or PF30. While having the large bearings and working great with 30mm spindles, riding in dirt, mud and harsh conditions cause failure much faster.  

Understanding everything about BB's in less than 1 minute... sort of... probably... not...

A lot of road bikes and fat bikes use specialty sizes. For example, some fat-bikes from Surly utilize a 121mm and 131mm shell width. The 386/392 Evo standard is similar to the PF30 standard but uses a wider shell with the bearings inside a set of cups. For road bikes, the 386/392 Evo use a 86.5mm wide shell. This is so you can have the large bearing of a bb30/pf30 shell but the width of english threaded with outboard bearings or bb92 system. These are all the more reason to make sure you are getting the correct brand and size when purchasing the correct bottom bracket. If you aren't confident you're buying the right size BB for your bike, please ask us. We deal with this stuff all day every day and are happy to help ensure you get the right stuff for your bike.  

Spindle size:

The majority of crank spindles come in either a 24mm or 30mm diameter. Below are some of the most popular brands and sizes.

• Raceface: 30mm (They also make some cranks with 24mm spindle, cheaper ones and older ones mostly)
• Sram BB30: 30mm
• Sram GXP: 24mm (Note this tappers to a 22mm on one side so don't try mixing brands for BB and cranks)
• Sram DUB (new and use of 28.99mm spindle, YES 28.99mm)
• Shimano: 24mm
• Ethirteen: 30mm

All in all, after reading this you've got some proof that bottom brackets are a confusing topic.  While they certainly are not getting easier, we have tried to help clear up some issues and possible give some knowledge about picking what works for you. If you've found your answer here, awesome! Go get yourself some fresh new bike parts. If you've still got questions, please don't hesitate to contact us. We can help you figure out your BB size, spindle size, what cranks fit your bike, etc. We eat, sleep and breathe bicycles so rest assured, we'll figure it out :)

This article was written / authored by Liam Woods. Liam has been in the bicycle industry for over 10 years as a racer, professional mechanic, service manager and as of late, media and content creator. Liam has ridden thousands of different bikes , ridden countless components , tested endless MTB apparel of all kinds and written reviews on it all. He's a key piece to the Worldwide Cyclery "All Things MTB" content creation puzzle. He also makes consistent appearances on the Worldwide Cyclery YouTube channel and Instagram .

April 05, 2019

Bike Knowledge › Bottom Bracket › Video ›

Top Products For You...

Recent blogs.

• Yeti SB165 - A New Mixed Wheel Bike Made For Aggressive Riding
• RaceFace Era & Turbine Handlebars - Tuned Compliance for Every Rider
• Fox Forks For 2025 - All New Dampers To Better Match Your Shocks
• SRAM Apex Shift/Brake Lever [Rider Review]
• OneUp Thick Grip [Rider Review]

--- Shop Info ---

• Videos / Blog Articles
• Contact / Locations
• Demo Bike Program
• Custom Bike Builds
• Miles For NICA
• We're Hiring!
• Affiliate Program
• Accessibility Statement
• Refund Policy
• Terms of Service
• Privacy Policy

--- Stay In Touch ---

Newsletter signup -.

© 2024 Worldwide Cyclery

• Trek Integrated Shimano BB90/BB95 Steel Bottom Bracket Kit

We'll take care of you. Period.

It's our mission to provide you with world-class hospitality every time you visit us online or in-store. We're always here to help you. It's the Trek way.

30 Day Unconditional Guarantee

Ride it and love it, or we'll take it back. If for any reason you're not 100% happy with your trekbikes.com purchase, you can send it back within 30 days for a refund - no questions asked.

Free shipping on all orders over $49

Simple, free delivery options for however you prefer to shop. Orders over $49 ship to your home for free, and all orders ship free to your local retailer for in-store pickup

More options

• MAGAZINE OFFERS
• BIKE INSURANCE
• Best Products
• Maintenance
• Accessories
• Long-Term Reviews
• BikeRadar Podcast
• First Look Friday
• Bike of the Week
• Tech Features
• Routes and Rides
• Bike Galleries
• BikeRadar Bargains
• Buyer's Guides
• Fitness & Training
• Sizing & Fit
• Mountain Biking UK
• Cycling Plus

Trek Mamba review

Unusual build

James Huang

The Mamba’s frame is trail worthy, with stable geometry and a suspension fork offers the best control in the test. The 100mm-travel RockShox Tora with lockout, preload adjustment (to cater for different rider weights) and rebound damping was the highlight of the Mamba and turned out to be a favorite within the test. Unfortunately, advantage gained by the frame and fork are quickly offset by the bike’s concessionary spec. The Mamba is one of only two bikes in this test with a 3x8 drivetrain, and the tall 32-tooth cog limits its climbing prowess. Trek picked a strangely bent handlebar that's much more appropriate for a city bike, and has no business being on a mountain bike.

• Standout features: Best suspension fork in the test, a RockShox Tora 29 w/G2 geometry, solid frame (both construction quality and geometry)
• Pros: Best suspension fork; contemporary 29er geometry
• Cons: Too many concessions – eight-speed, cable actuated disc brakes, square taper bottom bracket spindle; worst handlebar in the test; also heaviest of the hardtails in the test
• Weight: 14.5kg/31.96lb. Wheelset: 5.31kg/11.7lb

Share this article

• Terms & Conditions
• Subscribe to our magazines
• Manage preferences

• off.road.cc
• Dealclincher
• Fantasy Cycling

Support road.cc

Like this site? Help us to make it better.

• Sportive and endurance bikes
• Gravel and adventure bikes
• Urban and hybrid bikes
• Touring bikes
• Cyclocross bikes
• Electric bikes
• Folding bikes
• Fixed & singlespeed bikes
• Children's bikes
• Time trial bikes
• Accessories - misc
• Computer mounts
• Bike bags & cases
• Bottle cages
• Child seats
• Lights - front
• Lights - rear
• Lights - sets
• Pumps & CO2 inflators
• Puncture kits
• Reflectives
• Smart watches
• Stands and racks
• Arm & leg warmers
• Base layers
• Gloves - full finger
• Gloves - mitts
• Jerseys - casual
• Jerseys - long sleeve
• Jerseys - short sleeve
• Shorts & 3/4s
• Tights & longs
• Bar tape & grips
• Bottom brackets
• Brake & gear cables
• Brake & STI levers
• Brake pads & spares
• Cassettes & freewheels
• Chainsets & chainrings
• Derailleurs - front
• Derailleurs - rear
• Gear levers & shifters
• Handlebars & extensions
• Inner tubes
• Quick releases & skewers
• Energy & recovery bars
• Energy & recovery drinks
• Energy & recovery gels
• Heart rate monitors
• Hydration products
• Hydration systems
• Indoor trainers
• Power measurement
• Skincare & embrocation
• Training - misc
• Cleaning products
• Lubrication
• Tools - multitools
• Tools - Portable
• Tools - workshop
• Books, Maps & DVDs
• Camping and outdoor equipment
• Gifts & misc

Bottom brackets - get the insider info on your bike's beefiest bearing

First Published Jul 5, 2020

Bottom brackets should be seen and not heard. Unfortunately, that’s not always the case, and a simple component used to attach the cranks to the frame can cause issues. And when it comes time to replace a worn bottom bracket, it can be mystifying trying to get the correct replacement.

Compatibility issues

In an ideal world, there would be one single bottom bracket standard, but in a sport that has seen vast technological advances, the bottom bracket has been dragged, sometimes kicking and screaming, into the modern world with the result being a veritable minefield of choice.

In this guide we’ll run you through all the main bottom bracket types to help you identify the one on your bike when you need to replace it, and what you need to know about each system. Thankfully, it’s gotten a lot easier to find replacement bearings and while there have been some ruinous designs, some parts of the industry are moving towards more sensible solutions that provide better reliability and easier serviceability.  There are also lots of bottom bracket conversion kits that let you fit cranks from one standard to a frame with another standard.

To thread or press, that is the question

There are two main types of bottom bracket design, one with a threaded shell which the bearings screw into, or a press-fit design which the bearings press into the shell. Bottom brackets are largely distinguished by the shell and axle width and the diameter of the shell and axle.

Bearings that thread into the bottom bracket shell are the most common. It does mean the frame needs to be made from metal, or for a carbon frame to have bonded metal inserts to carry the necessary threads.

BSA, or English threaded bottom bracket, is the most common threaded standard in use today.  It uses a 68mm wide shell for road bikes, 73mm on mountain bikes, with a  34.8mm diameter shell. A few bike brands use an Italian threaded bottom bracket but these are rare.

In the olden days, a bicycle would have a cottered bottom bracket, but they are all but obsolete these days. They were replaced by square taper design, using a 17mm axle with a square tapered ned that fit into square holes in the crank. It’s still used on some cheaper bikes but largely redundant on modern road bikes.

Splined bottom brackets were popular for a while, with the likes of Shimano’s Octalink popular for several years. It used a spindle with eight splines and was seen on road and mountain bikes.  ISIS Drive was another design similar to Shimano’s patented design.

Hollowtech II

A threaded bottom bracket with outboard bearings is probably the most common design in use today. Placing the bearings external to the frame allowed for a larger axle for more stiffness, and hollowing it out saved weight. The bearings being further apart also contributed to the stiffness benefits.

Shimano developed Hollowtech in 2003 and changed the bottom bracket world forever. It moved the bearings outside of the frame whilst still screwing into the frame. This allowed larger bearings and axles for stiffness and weight benefits.

It uses a 24mm diameter axle with a 68mm wide shell for road bikes, and 73mm wide shell for mountain bikes. English threading has a left-hand thread on the drive side and right-hand thread on the non-drive side.

Many companies still use in face of the press-fit rise and some brands are even ditching press-fit and going back to it. There are now many conversion kits that let you fit a raft of other crank standards, including 30mm axles, to Hollowtech bottom brackets, increasing its popularity.

MegaExo, X-Type and GXP​

There exist similar designs to Shimano’s Hollowtech, following the same principle of outboard bearings inside a regular threaded shell and a 24mm axle.

Truvativ, now owned by SRAM, developed Giga X Pipe, GXP for short, was an evolution of ISIS. It used a right side bearing floating on the crank and a left side bearing sitting flush with the stepped axle design.

FSA developed MegaExo, also using a 24mm axle with a 68mm shell and 73mm for mountain bikes.

X-Type was developed by RaceFace and also used a 24mm axle with outboard bearings.

Campagnolo Ultra-Torque and Power Torque

Campagnolo developed an interesting design called Ultra Torque which was its answer to Shimano’s Hollowtech II in 2006.

The 25mm diameter crank axle was split in half and joined with a Hirth joint and large diameter bolt. The bearings sat outboard of the frame.

It was joined by Power Torque in 2011 which used a single piece axle fixed to the right crank and used outboard bearings. 

Campagnolo provides bearings to fit both cranks to most bottom brackets including threaded and press-fit.

With the advent of carbon fibre and the development of lightweight and stiff race frames, came the advent of the press-fit bottom bracket. Carbon is a wonderful material, but it has its limits, namely, you can’t cut threads into it for a threaded bottom bracket, and bonding aluminium sleeves is troublesome.

The solution was to press bearings directly into the frame. The benefits included more design freedom and stiffness and weight advantages over threaded designs. There now exist numerous flavours of press-fit bottom bracket, but most are not compatible with other designs, though in some cases conversion kits are available.

Cannondale BB30​

Cannondale, with the invention of BB30 in 2000, came up with a solution. BB30 saw the bearings being pressed directly into a huge 42m diameter carbon shell and a larger, 30mm diameter bottom bracket spindle made from aluminium. It offered more stiffness and less weight.

Cannondale evolved it with BB30A. It uses an asymmetrical shell that is 5mm wider on the non-drive side to create a wider, stiffer base.  The non-drive side crankarm angle is changed to maintain the same Q factor and even out ankle clearance on both sides

In 2015 Cannondale developed it further, introducing PF30A which moved away from bearings held in place by clips to press-fit bearings in plastic cups that pushed straight into the carbon bottom bracket shell. This change also required a bigger bottom bracket shell, so it grew from 42 to 46mm.

BB30 required extremely precise machined aluminium bottom bracket shells with strict tolerances to contain the bearings and clips. SRAM press-fit 30 and launched it to the world in 2009.

The shell size few from 42 to 46mm to accommodate the plastic cups containing the bearings.  It uses the same 30mm axle as BB30 and  68mm width for road bikes and 73mm for mountain bikes. 

It made it possible for frame designers to create carbon fibre frames with oversize bottom brackets for stiffness and weight benefits. It didn't require as strict tolerances compared to Cannondale's BB30 design.

This has led to many of the issues associated with press-fit bottom brackets because you're hoping the fit between the plastic cup and carbon shell is good enough to prevent any unwanted movement which can lead to creaking.

Shimano BB86 

Shimano developed its press-fit standard using 41mm diameter bearing cups with an 86.5mm wide bottom bracket shell for the road, and 89.5 or 92mm for mountain bike.  It’s designed to be used with a 24mm axle, Shimano long shunning the temptation to use a 30mm axle like its major rivals.

It’s sometimes referred to as PF41 because of the 41mm shell diameter.

Trek BB90 and BB95​

Trek developed its bottom bracket for its road and mountains bikes. The bearings pressed directly into the frame with a 90.5mm wide shell on road bikes, and 95.5mm wide shell on mountain bikes, with a 37mm shell diameter.

It’s arguably one of the most troublesome systems in current use if internet forums are anything to go by. No wonder Trek has adopted T47 on its new 2020 Domane road bike.

This is a standard introduced by FSA in 2011 that aimed to solve some of the issues with compatibility, designed as it was work with most current bottom bracket standards. It’s an open standard and quite a few manufacturers have been adopting it.

It uses an 86.5mm wide shell, to position the bearings further apart for more stiffness, with a 30mm axle that is as long as that of an external system. It’s also compatible with threaded bottom bracket shells.

You can get a BB386EVO bottom bracket that’ll fit a threaded 68mm BB shell, so you can use new standard cranks on an old standard frame.

ThreadFit82.5

When Colnago wanted to create a bottom bracket for its then-new C60 in 2015, it designed to come up with its design that aimed to address the issues of press-fit but retain the key advantages. It uses screw-in alloy cups to house the bottom bracket bearings. The cups are replaceable so there’s no risk of damaging the frame. It’s compatible with BB86 and BB386EVO.

T47 was developed by Chris King back in 2015 and uses an oversized and threaded design. It has the same diameter shell as a pressfit30 bottom bracket, but with the threaded cups of a traditional BSA-threaded bottom bracket. It’s an open standard so any frame manufacturer can use it.

It hasn’t been that widely adopted, just a few niche bike brands to begin with, but it’s gaining momentum with the likes of Trek using it on their new 2020 Domane endurance bike. 

Trek has hacked the standard slightly; they’ve made the BB shell 1mm narrower so it can add 0.5mm of extra material to the tool flanges to make it easier to remove them. It’s compatible with all off-the-shelf T47 internal BBs, though.

Cervelo BBRight​

Cervelo developed BBRight for its road frames using an 11mm wider shell jus ton the non-drive side with bearings pressed directly into the frame. That produced a 79mm wide shell with a 42mm diameter.

Specialized OSBB​

Specialized developed OSBB (oversize bottom bracket) in two slight variations for alloy and carbon frames. The latter uses a 46mm diameter shell with a 61mm width to work with its Fact cranks, using removable cups.

It's similar to BB30 and PF30 with a 30mm spindle but the shell is narrower to decrease the Q-Factor. In 2015 it moved OSBB to BB30 and in recent years it has started going back to threaded bottom brackets, with OSBB only found on its high-end models.

Introduced in 2018 primarily for mountain bikes but coming to the road market is a new system that SRAM hopes will be compatible with all current bottom brackets and frame designs, and make choosing a bottom bracket easier.

Durable Unifying Bottom Bracket, or DUB for short, uses a 28.99mm (very precise!) axle diameter replacing the company’s previous GXP and BB30 bottom brackets and claims it is lighter than BB30. It has also worked on the sealing to ensure good longevity.

Installation

There are key differences when installing a threaded versus press-fit bottom bracket.

Most people are cool with unscrewing something, but taking a mallet/drift to an expensive bike is a whole other thing.

Installing a threaded bottom bracket is relatively easy. You need the correct tool and some grease, and provided you follow the instructions carefully it’s plain sailing.

- How to fit a threaded bottom bracket

In some cases you might need to face the frame, removing excess paint/material to ensure the bearing sits flush against the frame. Most good frames should be done at the factory but that’s not always the case, so you might need to visit your bike shop in rare cases.

Removing a threaded bottom bracket, provided you remembered to grease the threads, is as easy as installing it.

Installing a press-fit bottom bracket requires its own special tool which is an expensive investment for most home mechanics. The tool basically squashes the bearings into the frame from either side, and in most cases, it’s a relatively easy task, depending on the tolerances of the frame and bearing cups.

- How to remove press-fit bottom bracket bearings

Removing a press-fit bottom bracket requires another specific tool and a whole load of trust. It’s essentially a case of using a mallet/hammer to whack the bearings out using the special tool seated against the inside of the bearing cups.

Take it from me, squaring up a hammer at a small tool placed inside the bottom bracket of your £2,500 700g frame is a heart in mount moment.

Pressing issues

Press-fit bottom brackets have become hugely popular, and seemingly every bike brand has come up with their variation on the theme, causing headaches for consumers trying to source replacement bearings. Installation and removal also require special tools and perfect tolerances between the frame and bearing to prevent issues arising. The creaking press-fit bottom bracket is a regular complaint among cyclists.

Is press-fit dead? road.cc investigates and speaks to Specialized and Bowman Cycles

What's your bottom bracket of choice? What have your experiences be with different bottom brackets over the years? Let's hear your stories below.

Help us to fund our site

We’ve noticed you’re using an ad blocker. If you like road.cc, but you don’t like ads, please consider subscribing to the site to support us directly. As a subscriber you can read road.cc ad-free, from as little as £1.99. 

If you don’t want to subscribe, please turn your ad blocker off. The revenue from adverts helps to fund our site.

Help us to bring you the best cycling content

If you’ve enjoyed this article, then please consider subscribing to road.cc from as little as £1.99. Our mission is to bring you all the news that’s relevant to you as a cyclist, independent reviews, impartial buying advice and more. Your subscription will help us to do more.

David worked on the road.cc tech team from 2012-2020. Previously he was editor of Bikemagic.com and before that staff writer at RCUK. He's a seasoned cyclist of all disciplines, from road to mountain biking, touring to cyclo-cross, he only wishes he had time to ride them all. He's mildly competitive, though he'll never admit it, and is a frequent road racer but is too lazy to do really well. He currently resides in the Cotswolds, and you can now find him over on his own YouTube channel David Arthur - Just Ride Bikes . 

Add new comment

17 comments.

I feel like there is not enough choice in the market. There needs to be at least two more 'standards' for bottom brackets. I'm sure the industry will address this soon.

• Log in or register to post comments

wycombewheeler wrote: I feel like there is not enough choice in the market. There needs to be at least two more 'standards' for bottom brackets. I'm sure the industry will address this soon.

https://xkcd.com/927/

There's nothing wrong with press fit as a concept. Theoretically it should be more suited to carbon frames than threaded. IF (and it's a big IF), manufacturers could build frames consistently to the right tolderances, press fit should work fine, without creaking. Who are the best/worst at this?

Dan Jestico wrote: There's nothing wrong with press fit as a concept. Theoretically it should be more suited to carbon frames than threaded. IF (and it's a big IF), manufacturers could build frames consistently to the right tolderances, press fit should work fine, without creaking. Who are the best/worst at this?

I disagree. I don't think hammers should be involved in the removal of any components.  Carbon fibre is also not particularly reistant to abrasion so forcing interference fit components into a carbon fibre orifice does not seem like the ideal solution.

Fit the BB and find it is a bit creaky, maybe some loctite should have been used to hold it firmly in place. Bearing has to be hammered out to start again instead of unscrewed. Is this bearing now still suitable for use or has it been damaged?

wycombewheeler wrote: I don't think hammers should be involved in the removal of any components. 

Heresy!  Burn the witch!

I will never buy another bike with a pressfit bottom bracket, they are the ejaculate of Satan.

Fortunately the bike industry looks like it is starting to turn its back on what is an embarrassment to bicycle engineering.

The biggest bearing on most bikes is in the headset

"a heart in mount moment"

A Freudian slip?

Thank you for such an in-depth article - even if the lesson I take from it is mostly "let the bike shop deal with this", it's good to be aware of what the issues are and options at replacement time. So such a level of detail is very much appreciated.

The lesson for me is stick to threaded BBs!

Duncann wrote: The lesson for me is stick to threaded BBs!

Even in the square taper BB era there was the issue with JIS/ISO standards but yeah, I also long for those simpler times instead of the current jungle.  I still have a square taper bb on one of my bikes and the only drawback there is weight.  

My other bike has PF30, so far so good but it better keep because I don't intend to make Park Tool even richer and my toolbox is full as it is.  When I purchase a new bike, the BB standard will be an element in the decision, I want something threaded (you hear that, Open Cycles...).

But 'rich' Park Tools do invest some of their profits into excellent bike maintenance tutorials  (you hear that, Xenophon2…).

Two of my three bikes have a Campagnolo Record square taper BB with matching crankset from 2006/7 they have done squillions of miles and still spin like new.  In fact the Record groupset from 2006 is a lovely set of equipment. I have a few spares in my garage for the future.  Not fashionable these days. 

Yup. Been there with Hollowtech II. After getting really fed up of near annual bearing replacement I reverted to UN55 square taper BB. The one on my hack bike used throughout the winter remains sweet after 15 years.

Which goes to show that, in cycling as in all things, you need a little luck.  I've had very different experiences from yours.  The only square taper BB I've owned needed new bearings every twenty minutes, whereas all my Hollowtech II stuff, and Campag Ultra/Power Torque too, have behaved impeccably, going years between re-greasings.

Of course, it could be down to the almost complete absence of torque produced by my legs?  

 Been there with Hollowtech II

This just shows how experiences differ. I always used to have difficulties with square taper and the adjustment to stop the big ring grating against the cage. My 2001 Merlin was no different, but when I belatedly heard about Hollowtech around 2009 I installed one straight away and have had no trouble or bearing replacements since.

Latest Comments

"It's a lovely morning Fido, let's get your 20 foot lead out and I can watch that TED talk on my 'phone at the same time". Mate, your dog isn't...

That's the kind of conservative choices I make for my home wheelbuilding, so it's good to hear pros doing this.  Some are quite disparaging about...

Again objective vs subjective safety:...

I once saw a blind dog being walked down the steps of the horseshoe bridge, where the Kennet meets the Thames, or the NCN 5 starts from the 4, it...

Warning after objects to puncture tyres found in Droitwich...

No, it should not go back to being a two-way street, at least not in the way JRM means. In fact it would be better if it went to being buses and...

No that doesn't show you didn't edit your original post, it just shows you think you are smarter than you actually are and doing another...

car crashes into building deliberately...

Looks like they're doing a bit of repainting of it tonight: https://www.bristolpost.co.uk/news/local-news/optical-illusion-cycle-lane-caused-9219854

“I’m hoping the timings will be such that cyclists don’t have long to wait. I understand that the Essex designers have received training from...

The 7 Best Bottom Brackets for All Kinds of Riders

Creaky bottom bracket? Swap it out with one of these user and critic favorites.

Gear-obsessed editors choose every product we review. We may earn commission if you buy from a link. How we test gear.

The Best Bottom Brackets

Best Overall

Shimano sm-bbr60 bottom bracket.

For a Massive Upgrade

Chris king chris king threadfit 24mm bottom bracket.

For Your PF30 Crankset

Wheels manufacturing press fit 30 with angular contact bearings.

For Mountain Bike Durability

Hope threaded bottom bracket.

Best Affordable Ceramic Bearings

Acer racing bottom bracket with ceramic bearings.

For Your Italian-Threaded Shell

Shimano dura-ace bb-r9100 bottom bracket.

Best Lightweight Bottom Bracket

Sram dub english bottom bracket, what to consider.

Plenty of factors can make finding a bottom bracket a confusing endeavor. Here’s what you need to know when shopping for bottom brackets.

Know Your Crankset and Frame Type

Your bottom bracket (BB) is an unseen component that connects your crank to your bicycle frame, providing the ability to power the drivetrain. It’s inserted into your bicycle frame’s bottom bracket shell, and typically includes bearings that help your crank’s spindle rotate. Because every frame and crankset is different, replacing a BB requires some research to determine if a particular bottom bracket is right for your bicycle.

It’s important to know your bottom bracket shell and spindle widths when purchasing a new BB. If you’re unsure if a bottom bracket will fit, refer to your manufacturer's website as a resource—most list which BBs are compatible with your frame. Bottom brackets will also sometimes come packaged with spacers to help get an exact fit, while adapters can also help.

You should also be mindful that some manufacturers require brand-specific tools in order to install a bottom bracket yourself, so if you plan on doing your own maintenance, ensure you have all of the necessary components. You may have to order a special tool from a manufacturer’s website for installation.

Threaded bottom brackets are the most common for modern bikes. These are bottom brackets where threads are cut into the frame’s bottom bracket shell, and bearing cups are then threaded into the shell. BSA/English bottom brackets, which have counterclockwise threading, are most often seen today. The less-common Italian threading, which is threaded clockwise, can also be purchased, however. Threaded BBs have the widest range of compatibility with cranksets.

Press-fit bottom brackets are directly placed into a frame’s bottom bracket shell and are often made with more affordable parts. These usually require special tools to be installed. Press-fit BBs have a reputation for making creaky noises over a shorter amount of time than threaded models, but that may not always be the case. It should also be noted that modern threaded bottom brackets , while advertised as such, are often bearings that have been press-fit into cups.

How We Evaluated

We researched and consulted several lists from professional critics, in addition to various Reddit and message board threads, for the most recommended and top-rated bottom brackets that money can buy. We then took a look through hundreds of user reviews from retailers like Amazon and Backcountry and compared ratings, read through complaints, and studied what makes a solid bottom bracket. The results of this list are a combination of the most raving user and professional reviews, and the top user ratings across retailers.

For more great ways to upgrade your bike, check out our picks for the best bike fenders , handlebars , and bike stems .

• For Shell Widths: 68mm and 70mm
• Weight: 100 grams

The BBR60 is a solid bottom bracket replacement known to be as reliable as any other Shimano item money can buy.

It’s a lightweight component that features smooth, small bearings, is backed by a 3-year warranty, and claims to reduce rotational friction by 50 percent. The steel bearings are also equipped with Shimano’s reliable sealing technologies, which prevent the elements from damaging the component.

Keep in mind that installing this bottom bracket will require a new Shimano Hollowtech II tool due to its smaller threaded cups. The BBR60, however, includes a plastic tool adapter that makes for compatible installation with older Hollowtech II tools. Reviewers on Amazon say this TL-FC25 adapter works just fine.

• For Shell Widths: 68mm, 73mm, 83mm, and 100mm (with conversion kit)

While it’s not the most affordable, the ThreadFit 24 Bottom Bracket is definitely one of the flashiest and best on the market.

American manufacturer Chris King is known for producing long-lasting bicycle components, and its BB is simple to service and likely to outlast cheaper options that wear out over time. This is all due to its anodized components, which provide some corrosion resistance, as well as an eye-catching shiny finish.

Oh, and just in case you’re worried about that price: The Threadfit also comes with a lifetime warranty. Keep in mind, however, that this bottom bracket will require a fit kit to fit your specific swindle and crank.

• For Shell Widths: 61mm to 73mm, with spacers
• Weight: 153 grams

This press-fit BB from Wheels Manufacturing is built for heavy-duty riding and is compatible with most 24mm cranksets. It features angular contact bearings, which have a higher speed rating than radial bearings. This press-fit BB also has two aluminum cups that stabilize and increase bearing life.

It also solves annoying creaking, according to reviewers. It's sealed with silicone, which protects the BB from any grime and dirt you’ll experience on the road, resulting in less maintenance.

• For Shell Widths: 68mm, 73mm, 83mm, 100mm and 120mm
• Weight: 102 grams

British manufacturer Hope is known for producing reliable BBs that can withstand harsh weather, which makes this model a perfect option for those who need something durable to pair with their mountain bike. This threaded BB has stainless steel bearings that are double sealed via O-rings to ward away the elements, while a free-running labyrinth seal will protect bearings externally.

This piece also has direct contact with the crankset’s axle, which means the need for spacers is out the window. Just note that Hope requires a specific tool for installation, depending on your spindle width.

• For Shell Widths: 68mm or 73mm
• Weight: 82 grams

Bottom brackets with ceramic bearings are tougher and require less energy to use than their steel counterparts. This BB from ACER Racing is one of the more affordable options out there for buying ceramic. It provides a more efficient transfer of power, reducing drag dramatically, and also comes in a striking anodized red. This is great for those who have Shimano and Sram cranksets and are looking to try ceramic at a lower cost than what Chris King offers.

• For Shell Widths: 70mm
• Weight: 108 grams

If you’ve got an old Italian bicycle, you’re going to need to replace its BB with one that’s Italian-threaded. This option from Shimano will do the job. This bottom bracket is durable and serviceable, with updated seals that will give you a quieter ride and reduce drag. Reviewers say that this bottom bracket is a very easy installation and provides a creak-free ride, while others love it for its affordable price.

• For Shell Widths: 68mm and 73mm
• Weight: 22 grams

This BB from Sram features the brand’s proprietary Gutter Seal Technology, which is guaranteed to improve sealing against the elements while dramatically reducing seal drag and friction. It comes packaged with extra spacers just in case you need some, plus it’s super lightweight compared to other bottom brackets on this list. An Amazon favorite, plenty of reviewers say it’s very easy to install on their frame, the quality is excellent, and it’s surprisingly durable.

Kevin Cortez is an editor for Runner's World, Bicycling, and Popular Mechanics covering reviews. A culture and product journalist for over ten years, he’s an expert in men’s style, technology, gaming, coffee, e-bikes, hiking, gear, and all things outdoors. He most recently worked as the Style Editor for Reviewed, a top product recommendation site owned by USA TODAY. He also helped with the launch of WSJ's Buy Side commerce vertical, and has covered the music and podcast industries for Mass Appeal, Genius, Vulture, Leafly, Input, and The A.V. Club. Equally passionate about leisure as he is his penmanship, Kevin dedicates his spare time to graphic novels, birding, making cold brew, and taking long, meandering walks.

.css-1t6om3g:before{width:1.75rem;height:1.75rem;margin:0 0.625rem -0.125rem 0;content:'';display:inline-block;-webkit-background-size:1.25rem;background-size:1.25rem;background-color:#F8D811;color:#000;background-repeat:no-repeat;-webkit-background-position:center;background-position:center;}.loaded .css-1t6om3g:before{background-image:url(/_assets/design-tokens/bicycling/static/images/chevron-design-element.c42d609.svg);} Bikes & Gear

The 10 Best Mountain Bikes You Can Buy Right Now

The Best Beach Cruisers for Leisurely Rides

This Top-Rated Electric Mountain Bike Is 22% Off

The 7 Best Electric Mountain Bikes of 2024

The Best Hardtail Mountain Bikes

Reviewed: BMC‘s Fast and Unique Teammachine R 01

Best Hybrid Bikes You Can Buy Right Now

What Happened to the Roubaix Bike?

The 14 Best Road Bikes of 2024

The Best Commuter Bikes for Getting Around Town

This Editor-Recommended E-Bike Is 40% Off at REI

2012 Trek Mamba

Stock photo of a 2012 mamba color may not match.

• Serial: 2077U0411 TBI-2712 170C5423G
• Manufacturer: Trek
• Model: Mamba
• Primary colors: Black
• Wheel diameter: 700 C

Distinguishing features

Alpha Gold Aluminum, butted & hydroformed tubing, cold-forged dropouts & bottom bracket, G2 Geometry

Drivetrain and brakes

Additional parts, frame and fork.

• Front Wheel Shimano M35 alloy hubs; Bontrager AT-850 disc 29 32-hole rims
• Rear Wheel Shimano M35 alloy hubs; Bontrager AT-850 disc 29 32-hole rims
• Front Tire Bontrager 29-3, 29x2.1"
• Rear Tire Bontrager 29-3, 29x2.1"
• Front Shifter Shimano Alivio M430, 9 speed
• Rear Shifter Shimano Alivio M430, 9 speed
• Front Derailleur Shimano Acera
• Rear Derailleur Shimano Deore M591
• Crankset Shimano Alivio M4308, 44/32/22
• Cog/Cassette/Freewheel Shimano HG20-9 11-34, 9 speed
• Pedals Wellgo ATB, boron axle, steel cage
• Front Brake Shimano M446 hydraulic disc brakes
• Rear Brake Shimano M446 hydraulic disc brakes
• Saddle Bontrager Evoke 1
• Seatpost Bontrager SSR, 27.2mm, 20mm offset
• Handlebar Bontrager Low Riser, 31.8mm, 5mm rise, 9 degree sweep
• Stem Bontrager Race Lite, 31.8mm
• Headset 1-1/8" threadless, semi-integrated, semi-cartridge bearings

• Crosscountry
• Rider Notes

2012 Trek Mamba

A 29″ aluminum frame crosscountry bike with upper mid-range components. Compare the full range

For This Bike

View more similar bikes →

A bike with lower gearing will be easier to ride up steep hills, while a higher top end means it will pedal faster down hills.

Similar Bikes

(descending)

Add custom gearing

Jan 2011 · James Huang

The Mamba’s frame is trail worthy, with stable geometry and a suspension fork offers the best control in the test.

Read Review

Last updated 29 June Not listed for 2,477 days

How To Remove & Fit A BB90 Press Fit Bottom Bracket

In this post, complete with video, I show you how to remove and fit a BB90 Bottom Bracket on a Trek road bike (in this case my carbon Trek Domane 4.3, which I bought in 2013).

You will learn:

🔨 what tools you need to remove a set of seized BB90 bottom bracket bearings

🔩 how to use a bottom bracket press tool to fit new Trek BB90 bearings

🔧 how to avoid the plastic dust cover being pushed out when you reinstall the crankset

I filmed the video as part of a series where I stripped down and then renovated my 7-year-old Trek Domane 4.3 endurance road bike.

You can watch all of the videos in the series, in order by checking out this playlist .

How To Remove & Fit A BB90 Press Fit Bottom Bracket

This was actually the first and so far only time I’ve removed and fitted a bottom bracket (of any sort), so whilst the video will likely include things you shouldn’t do, at least you can see that it’s doable by someone with only a very modest amount of bike mechanic acumen.

Things You Will Need

Let’s start with the bike. Clearly this post/video is most relevant for bikes with press fit bottom brackets. In my case that’s a 2013 Trek Domane 4.3.

The BB90 bottom bracket standard, which is a proprietary Trek design, involves two sealed bearings being pressed directly into the bottom bracket shell within the (carbon) frame.

The bearings have actually done quite well, lasting 6.5 years of all year riding on the muddy roads of Derbyshire and a cleaning regime that I would describe as, er, sporadic.

However, during a deep clean that was meant to be ahead of replacing just the headset bearings, I realised that one of the bottom bracket bearings was also a bit ‘grindy’. A full bike refurb was on the cards. By the time I’d acquired all the bits to do this, the bearing had totally seized up.

New BB90 Bottom Bracket Bearings

A light Googlewacking suggests that no one’s a particular fan of the BB90 standard . As mentioned, the bearings are pressed directly into the carbon shell and if they don’t fit exactly then it can cause creaking.

Apparently, over time, the carbon shell into which the bearings fit can get worn, increasing the diameter of the cups (so many random words…). It seems the power I am throwing down is insufficient to cause such wear, so this wasn’t an issue in my case.

Despite this, whilst you can buy equivalently sized sealed cartridge bearings, I decided to play it safe and buy the official Trek BB90 kit (which is also suitable for BB95 bottom brackets).

The kit which comes with two sealed bearings and a plasticky inner ‘sheath’.

Step 1: Remove the Pedal Cranks

Erm, I don’t appear to have shown this in the video (or indeed in any of the other videos in the bike renovation series).

You can Google this to work it out for the groupset you use.

I’ve got Shimano 105, so it was a case of using a hex (or Allen) key to remove the pinch bolts on the non drive side crank. I used the specific Hollowtech plastic circular tool to remove the plastic ‘preload adjuster’ and the non-drive side crank could be slid off the spindle. Then, said spindle, which is attached to the chainrings, could be pulled out of the bottom bracket from the drive side.

Finally, the fox (amateur mechanic) could see its prey (the bearings…).

Step 2: Get The Old Bearings Out

For this I invested in the correct tool, a Park Tool BBT 90.3 press fit bottom bracket bearing, er, tool.

(Extra tip in brackets: for this whole job, use the right tools. Trying to hack either the removal or insertion of press fit bearings is a recipe for disaster, with a risk of doing irreparable – or at least expensive-to-fix – damage to your bike frame.)

You basically insert the pointy end of the BBT 90.3 through the middle of the bearing you are seeking to remove and then pull it as it pokes out from the other side of the bottom.

As you pull it through, the splayed splines of the tool compress together until there is a click as it passes fully through the bearing. The splines of tool are then sat against the inside rim of the bearing. Stop pulling.

Now you need to hammer (yes, hammer) the pointy end of the BBT 90.3 tool such that it pops out the bearing.

You can either do this carefully, and try to catch the escaping bearing and tool. Or you can whack it with gay abandon and delight in the clanging sound as the BBT 90.3 bounces along your garage floor.

Repeat for the bearing on the other side.

Step 3: Clean Out The Bottom Bracket Shell/Housing

The real step 3 is probably to remove the plastic inner ‘sheath’ (in my top ten favourite words), because a replacement comes in the Trek BB90 kit.

However, mine (my sheath) seemed in pretty good nick, so I just left it in there and gave it a good clean. Ahem.

The remainder of step 3 is to give the whole bottom bracket region, particularly where the new bearings will be seated a good clean. I used kitchen roll and lashings of GT80. Sue me.

Step 4: Apply Grease

A key step in any velomech scenario: a liberal application of grease.

As per the video, I applied grease around the inside of the bottom bracket cups, where the bearings were about to be seated.

My trusty Zinns Road Bike Maintenance book recommends also coating the outside of the new bearings. I don’t remember whether I did this.

Step 5: Press In The New Bearings

It’s time for another specialist tool.

The key thing (as I understand it) when inserting press fit bearings is to make sure they go in straight. This is all the more important for carbon frames when you ab-so-lutely, pos-i-tively do not want to crack your bottom bracket (or any bit of your frame).

So you’ll want a press tool.

This is a threaded metal rod with handles that spin on the thread. You put the metal rod through the middle of the bottom bracket and then slide the new bearings onto the rod (in the orientation in which you want them pushing into the BB housing).

You then slide specifically-sized metal discs (known as drifts) onto the threaded rod and then tighten the handles such that the drifts push inwards on the bearings, applying a consistent force such that the bearings are pushed straight into the bottom bracket.

And here we see me turning the handles and pushing the new bearings into place (without cracking the carbon frame…):

I bought a Wheels Manufacturing Universal Bottom Bracket Press tool. It wasn’t super cheap but it is good quality and comes with specially designed reversible drifts that can push in bearings with a range of different diameters.

As it happens, the BBT 90.3 bearing removal tool came with a pair of BB90-sized drifts, so I could have got away with buying a cheaper press. However, I plan to press many more things in my quest for bike mechanic mastery, so I was happy to invest in a more whizzbang tool.

And thus the new bearings were installed:

Step 6: Reinstall The Crankset

Again, exactly how you do this will depend on the groupset you are using.

I do have one twop twip to think about when you are reinstalling the spindle through the new bearings.

The Trek BB90 kit that I bought differed slightly from the original bearings that I removed in that the new ones have a plastic insert that both reduced the inner diameter of the bearing and (I assume) acts as a bit of a cover to protect it from the elements.

If you use the official Trek kit (or similar), when you push the spindle through the bottom bracket, make sure to press against the cover-cum-reducer on the opposite side to avoid it being pushed out. Once the cover has been popped out from the bearing, it is a devil to get back into place without cracking or creasing it.

Step 7: Bask In The Warm Glow Of Your Own Smugness

That’s pretty much it. Whilst it took a bit of time, and a reasonably significant investment in new tools, I successfully managed to install two new bearings in my BB90 bottom bracket.

Both the removal of the old bearings and the insertion of the new ones was pretty straightforward. I actually found that I enjoyed it. And, yes, there is a certain amount of smug satisfaction derived from tackling, and completing, a non-run-of-the-mill bike maintenance task.

Tools and Parts

Here are the tools and parts I used in completing this job:

• Trek BB90/95 Bottom Bracket kit
• Park Tool BBT 90.3 Bottom Bracket Bearing Tool
• Wheels Manufacturing Bottom Bracket Press

A full list of all the tools and components I used to fully overhaul my bike can be found on this page .

Subscribe to Sportive Cyclist

I write entertaining articles about road cycling: gear reviews, training advice. All from a MAMIL perspective. Subscribe below and I will send you enjoyable and helpful cyclo-info straight to your inbox.

Leave a comment Cancel reply

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed .