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And This One Belongs to the Bengals

Illustration by Mike Tofanelli

T he weather outside had dipped below freezing on a chilly Saturday afternoon in mid-January, but spirits were high inside the Bally Sports Club at Great American Ball Park. The annual members-only luncheon of the Rosie Reds featured a buffet spread, and members had been promised a keynote address from Cincinnati Reds President Phil Castellini.

The Rosie Reds (ROSIE: “Rooters Organized to Stimulate Interest and Enthusiasm”) are an institution in this town. Formed in 1964 as a “women’s only group” in response to persistent rumors that Reds owner Bill DeWitt intended to move the franchise to another city, these are perhaps the most loyal and dedicated group of Reds fans anywhere.

Castellini, son of team CEO Bob Castellini, has been a target of frequent criticism since his disastrous comments last year when he asked fans “Where ya gonna go?” in response to public criticism of the team’s small payroll and perceived lack of effort at improving the roster. Phil has largely kept out of the public eye since that day, but when given a platform at the Rosie Reds luncheon he proceeded to pick up where he left off.

Castellini opened by admitting that he had just learned that “Rosie” was an acronym and asked if everyone else knew that. A groan rose up from the crowd, but Phil was off and running. He claimed that the Reds operate as a nonprofit and lamented baseball’s guaranteed contracts, asking rhetorically if “anyone here [was] paid to not do their job?” And then, the coup de grace: a slide show in which he used cherry-picked data to argue that the Reds simply cannot compete with other teams in Major League Baseball.

One day later, just down the riverfront, the Cincinnati Bengals faced off against the Baltimore Ravens in the first playoff game since last year’s electrifying run to the Super Bowl. More than 66,000 fans poured into Paycor Stadium to watch Joe Burrow and company capture a dramatic victory, capped by the Fumble in the Jungle, a 98-yard return touchdown by defensive end Sam Hubbard, a Cincinnati native and product of Moeller High School.

As rapturous Bengals fans filed out of the stadium with dreams of glory to come, the contrast between Cincinnati’s two oldest professional sports franchises couldn’t have been starker. The Castellinis had officially replaced the Brown family, owners of the Bengals, as Cincinnati’s sports villains. It took Mike Brown and family almost 30 years to get the city back in their corner. How long will it take the Castellinis?

Chris Wilson grew up as a die-hard Reds and Bengals fan in southwest Virginia, just across the eastern Kentucky border in a region that was once part of “Reds Country.” As a child, his family made the four-hour trek several times a year to Cincinnati to watch the Reds, and it became a cherished ritual. “My buddies and I would get cheap hotel rooms across the river many times each summer,” Wilson recalls. “When Great American Ball Park opened, we attended 11 home games that first season.”

As he married and started a family of his own, they continued making the trip west as often as possible, his oldest son even learning to keep his own scorecard at GABP at the age of 4. “The Reds were our team,” he says. “It’s like they were part of our family.”

A couple of years ago, the Wilsons returned to Cincinnati. “My kids didn’t attend their first Bengals game until 2013, and we hadn’t been to another one since as a family,” he says, “but in 2021 we decided to go back.” Despite a Bengals loss, “the atmosphere, the energy, and the team itself created an environment that made us want to return. Which we did the following week. And they lost again. But we were hooked.”

The Wilson family took the plunge and bought Bengals season tickets. He was in the stadium for the Fumble in the Jungle. “Probably the craziest atmosphere I’ve ever been a part of,” he says. “Unlike anything I’ve ever witnessed.”

He and his family are still Reds fans but struggle to get excited about the franchise’s direction. “We attended just one Reds game last year,” says Wilson. “And we did that one only because we were in the city to watch a Bengals practice and figured we’d might as well go to a game since we were there.”

It wasn’t always this way. For years, Mike Brown was Public Enemy No. 1 among Queen City sports fans. Upon the death of his father, team founder and legendary NFL coach Paul Brown, in August 1991, Mike officially took over and served as the team’s de facto general manager. What followed was nothing short of disastrous.

After reaching the Super Bowl twice in the 1980s, the Bengals spent the next three decades as a league-wide punchline. Between 1991 and 2019, when the team drafted Burrow, Cincinnati had just seven winning seasons. “He took too much on himself and was not very good at it,” longtime Cincinnati Enquirer scribe Paul Daugherty told Cincinnati Magazine in 2014 . “[The Bengals] were not only the worst team in the NFL, they were arguably the worst team in professional sports. And it was entirely Mike’s show.”

Accounts of Brown’s legendarily frugal ways are legion, with tales of used jockstraps, refusals to provide Gatorade to the players, and trips to a local Wendy’s restaurant for negotiation sessions with agents. The on-field product was often more embarrassing. Until the last two seasons, the Bengals had not won a single playoff game since Brown began calling the shots. In 2011, Forbes named him the fifth-worst owner in the NFL . A similar study in 2021 declared him the worst of the league’s 32 owners.

The depths of Brown’s villainy are best illustrated by his efforts to fleece Hamilton County taxpayers in what The Wall Street Journal termed perhaps the most lopsided public-financing stadium deal in U.S. sports history. Voters ultimately approved a half-cent county sales tax increase to pay for new stadiums for the Bengals and the Reds, but only after a coordinated PR campaign centered around the Bengals’ threat to relocate the team to another city.

By all accounts, the stadium deal has been calamitous for the county. As of 2016, taxpayers had forked over more than $920 million to build and operate what was originally known as Paul Brown Stadium. The total public cost is estimated to rise to $1.1 billion by the time the team’s lease with the county expires in 2026.

S o yes, Mike Brown’s lousy reputation among local sports fans was indeed well-deserved. Bob Castellini, on the other hand, enjoyed a lengthy honeymoon after his ownership group purchased a stake in the Reds and installed him as CEO in 2006. At his introductory press conference , Castellini was very clear, saying, “We’re buying the Reds to win. Anything else is unacceptable.” Soon thereafter, Castellini and his fellow owners penned an open letter to fans, promising to bring a championship back to Cincinnati and famously guaranteeing that “[We] will not rest until you are happy.”

The Reds won division championships in 2010 and 2012 and secured a Wild Card berth in 2013. But thanks largely to Castellini’s persistent interference with baseball decisions, the Reds soon plunged into the depths of the National League. They suffered through six consecutive losing seasons, including four straight campaigns during which they lost no fewer than 94 games. Finally, in 2020, there was reason for optimism.

Under the leadership of former President of Baseball Operations Dick Williams—son and nephew, respectively, of Joe and Thomas Williams, minority shareholders in Castellini’s ownership group— the Reds reshaped nearly everything about the minor league system and began filling holes on the big league roster. Williams signed Nick Castellanos, Mike Moustakas, and Wade Miley and traded for pitcher Trevor Bauer.

Cincinnati finished the pandemic-shortened 2020 season with a 31–29 record, actually sneaking into an expanded playoff structure, where they were promptly crushed by the Atlanta Braves. But it was something to build on. Curiously, Williams stepped down immediately after the season in what was a harbinger of things to come. Within two months, Cincinnati had essentially given away two quality relief pitchers for free, and the Reds did little to improve the roster over the winter.

The 2021 Reds won 83 games and fell just short of the playoffs only because ownership quit on them. That’s when everything devolved into chaos. General Manager Nick Krall revealed that he had been ordered to “align payroll to our resources.” The Reds cynically gave away players (Miley and Gold Glove catcher Tucker Barnhart) because Castellini didn’t want to pay them. Krall executed a fire sale, trading away the core of the roster: Jesse Winker, Sonny Gray, Eugenio Suarez, Luis Castillo, and Tyler Mahle.

Phil Castellini then verbally vomited all over himself on Opening Day 2022, and things went from bad to worse. The Reds lost 100 games for only the second time in franchise history and finished the season with the lowest attendance totals since the early 1980s. Things don’t figure to get any better in 2023, as Phil warned the Rosie Reds.

While the Reds have continued to alienate an already-frustrated fan base, the Bengals have engineered a stunning turnaround. “It’s night and day right now,” says Mo Egger, who hosts the afternoon sports talk show on ESPN 1530. “Bengals fans finally seem unburdened by the franchise’s past and no longer filled with the apprehension that came with decades of not advancing to the postseason. Even with the disappointment of losing in the AFC title game, there seems to be a legitimate feeling that a championship—while not inevitable—is very, very likely.”

Sara Elyse, a news anchor with WLW radio as well as iHeart Media, is a lifelong Cincinnatian who’s been attending Reds and Bengals games for years. She’s had a similar experience as Egger. “Bengals fans are definitely energized right now and feeling optimistic about the future,” says Elyse. “In the AFC Championship game in Kansas City, as soon as the field goal was good and the Chiefs were crowned winners, Bengals fans were sad, yes, but also still feeling optimistic. Like, Hey, we’ll get them next year . Key word here: optimistic . We all know the Bengals are capable of getting back to the big stage.

“Sadly, Reds fans are not optimistic right now. It’s a glass half full vs. glass half empty situation.”

I f Mike Brown’s reputation has been resurrected from the dead, there’s no reason Bob Castellini can’t do the same. First, though, we must acknowledge the obvious: The NFL and MLB operate different business models in many ways.

The NFL has a payroll cap and a robust revenue sharing system that reflects the fact that pro football is a national product, while baseball is more of a local one. MLB teams don’t have a payroll cap; they have a luxury tax. Teams that spend more than the luxury tax threshold are “taxed” on the amount by which they exceed the number. The amount collected is then disbursed to the other baseball franchises.

In practice, MLB teams can essentially spend any amount they want on salary. There is a penalty for exceeding the luxury tax threshold, but that hasn’t discouraged baseball owners who actually want to win. Case in point: The New York Mets’ 2023 payroll is projected to be in excess of $330 million. That’s nearly five times the Reds’ projected payroll ($70,624,500).

Though there are differences between the economic systems in each sport, there are specific lessons that Bob Castellini can learn from the example of the Bengals and Mike Brown. Here are five of them.

• Stop Meddling! 

In recent years, Brown has stepped away from day-to-day operations within the Bengals front office. He began by ceding control of many on-field decisions to former coach Marvin Lewis. Off the field, Brown’s daughter Katie Blackburn and her husband Troy have steadily taken a more active role in nearly every arena of front office operations, from contract negotiations to marketing, while Duke Tobin—Cincinnati’s director of player personnel—has acted more like a typical NFL general manager. The product, both on the field and off, has improved substantially.

The Castellinis must similarly fade into the background. “I’ve often been critical of Castellini leadership,” says Egger, “either for being meddlesome or for not going all-in when they could have. Their almost constant switching from one plan to another has yielded very, very limited results. Remember when [former minor league pitching coordinator] Kyle Boddy was going to lead a total overhaul of how the Reds developed pitchers?

“Is Nick Krall the right person to run the team’s baseball operations? I don’t know. But if he and his staff are allowed to carry forth a plan without ownership interference and eventually with more financial support, then, yes, the Reds can execute a turnaround. You’re being fair if you lack faith in those things happening.”

Of course, Bob Castellini can’t simply permit Phil to take over his role, as Mike Brown did with his daughter. Phil has shown a talent only for inserting his foot into his mouth alongside his silver spoon. Both should get out of the way.

• Build Around Your Young Stars.

On the final day of the 2019 regular season, the Bengals clinched the No. 1 pick in the NFL Draft, which was used to select Burrow . The following year, they nabbed wide receiver Ja’Marr Chase in round one. And just like that, the Bengals had two young pieces to build a franchise around, not to mention receiver Tee Higgins, kicker Evan McPherson, tackle Jonah Williams, and linebackers Germaine Pratt and Logan Wilson, all drafted in recent years.

Burrow, Chase, and company became big-time contributors pretty much from the day they arrived, of course, while even the best baseball prospects take years to develop into major leaguers. But building around young studs can absolutely work for the Reds. “What the Reds are trying to do will require a bunch of things to go right,” says Egger, “but they do have the building block of starting pitchers Hunter Greene, Graham Ashcraft, and Nick Lodolo to build around, which isn’t insignificant. I’ve got to think that lots of MLB franchises starting a rebuild would like to have those three pitchers as their foundation.”

Atlanta provides an instructive example. In recent years, Braves GM Alex Anthopoulos has been steadfast in a commitment to signing his young stars—including Ronald Acuña Jr., Ozzie Albies, Austin Riley, and Spencer Strider—to contracts that bought out their arbitration-eligible years or seasons in which they would have been free agents.

The Reds should look to lock up young players such as catcher Tyler Stephenson, second baseman Jonathan India, and the trio of Greene, Ashcraft, and Lodolo to deals that give the players some financial certainty while providing the team with a nucleus to build around. Then, as the celebrated prospects from the restocked farm system begin to arrive on the big league level, Krall must be prepared to identify those who might fit into that nucleus and lock them up as well.

• Modernize Your Roster-Building Philosophy.

Duke Tobin built competitive rosters during the Marvin Lewis era, but there’s been a notable change in organizational philosophy in recent years. “It’s been a little surprising to see the Bengals embrace more modern ways of roster building,” says Egger. “It was interesting last off-season when they steered away from their own free agents, Carl Lawson and William Jackson, and effectively replaced them with players from other teams. They’ve moved on from players who had years left on their deals, which was something they used to never do.”

The Reds were among the very last teams to fully embrace analytics, and in many ways they still lag behind most other MLB franchises. They also appear to be rolling back the radical player development efforts instituted under Williams. He’s never spoken publicly about the reasons for his departure, but shortly after he left Cincinnati’s minor league pitching (Boddy) and hitting coordinators (CJ Gillman) resigned on the same day. Both cited the fact that the Reds were “moving in a different direction in many areas of player development.”

If the Reds intend to build from within, it’s imperative that they embrace cutting-edge player development and not rely on old-school philosophies of the past. They should be aggressive in the international market, and Krall should also be ruthless in moving on from players who aren’t performing, regardless of how much they’re being paid. The release of Moustakas over the winter, despite being owed $22 million, was a refreshing decision. There’s no room for sentimentality in professional sports. Except where Joey Votto is concerned, of course.

• Never Stop Trying To Improve On The Margins.

One of the most impressive things about the Bengals’ resurgence is how aggressively they’ve addressed weaknesses on the field. In March 2022, Tobin worked overtime to improve the struggling offensive line, but you can see similar efforts all over the field. Most of the Bengals’ roster was acquired in the last three years.

Here, the Bengals have a bit of an advantage, in that they were able to exploit the fact that they have a franchise quarterback on a rookie contract, providing additional cap space to improve the team. But the Castellinis have consistently stumbled with putting the finishing touches on a competitive roster. Think back to 2020 when, in response to a pandemic-related dip in revenue, ownership panicked and actually downgraded the roster to save money. If they’d been aggressive in improving the team, the Reds almost certainly would have made the playoffs in 2021.

We can also look back to the 2010 and 2012 division champion Reds, both good teams with clear flaws. Instead of addressing those flaws, the Reds largely decided just to run it back with the same players or take flyers on those they could get on the cheap. It didn’t end well either time.

You can’t build a roster on prospects alone. At some point, the Castellinis will need to open up the checkbook again and be intentional about filling roster holes.

• Rebuild The Relationship With Your Fans.

Elizabeth Blackburn , Mike Brown’s granddaughter (and daughter of Katie and Troy), has been a revelation as the Bengals’ director of strategy and engagement. She was instrumental in finally bringing a Ring of Honor to the stadium and is laser-focused on improving fan engagement.

It doesn’t stop there. Think about Zac Taylor popping into local bars and handing out game balls after playoff victories. These are the things that help bond a fan base with the local team.

In general, the Reds have done a tremendous job of promoting their glorious past, but the club is on a two-year streak that can only be characterized as a public relations disaster. You already know about the ongoing Phil Castellini fiasco, but every time Krall speaks he says something else that frustrates a dwindling fan base.

There is a way to sell the Reds’ current plan, but it will require a coordinated PR strategy. Phil should never be seen in public again. Krall must stop talking publicly, and the Reds need someone who can clearly communicate the team’s strategy and highlight their successes. (I’m available to fill that position, by the way.) The Reds also need to be honest with fans about their past failures, admit that they haven’t lived up to their promises, and commit to listening to feedback.

Making the case for the Reds shouldn’t be particularly difficult. Thanks to trades engineered by Krall, Cincinnati’s minor league system is stacked with prospects. If the team plays things right, this could be a competitive team sooner rather than later, and winning ultimately cures everything. As we’ve seen from the Bengals, victories combined with a real focus on the fan experience can bring dynamite results.

“I’ve lived in Cincinnati my whole life,” says WLW’s Elyse. “This has always been a baseball town. I mean, Opening Day is a holiday! But now, for Bengals home games, you can’t even walk The Banks because of how crowded it is. Every home game feels like a playoff game, and every bar in Cincinnati is decorated in orange and black stripes. I’ve been going to Bengals games for years with my dad, and I’ve never seen anything like this. It all comes down to winning. Cincinnati fans are fans of winning.”

The Castellinis don’t have to be Cincinnati’s sports villains. Redemption is possible. Just ask Mike Brown.

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9 Things to See in Moscow's Red Square

 Sir Francis Canker/Getty Images

In most cases, you'll be entering Red Square from the north, passing landmarks such as the Bolshoi Theatre and Duma parliament building as you make your way southward. Although you don't necessarily have to pass through the Voskresensky (or Resurrection in English) Gates in order to gain access to the square these days, they definitely provide a sense of arrival, to say nothing of the way their left arch frame's St. Basil's Cathedral if you look from just the right angle.

An interesting fact is that while a gate of some kind has stood here since the mid-16th century, the one you currently see wasn't built until 1994, having been destroyed in 1931 so that tanks could enter and exit Red Square during military parades.

St. Basil's Cathedral

TripSavvy / Christopher Larson 

Few sights are as iconic not only of Moscow and Red Square but indeed of Russia than St. Basil's Cathedral, whose colorful, onion-shaped domes are a symbol of the country around the world. Officially known as the Cathedral of Vasily the Blessed, this church has stood since 1561, which is quite miraculous when you consider all the turbulent history that has transpired since then.

Among other things, religion was severely prohibited during the Soviet period , which led some to believe that this emblem of the Russian Orthodox church might not withstand the tenure of the USSR. 

An interesting fact is that St. Basil's is the so-called "Kilometer Zero" of Russia; all of Moscow's main roads (which can take you anywhere in Russia) begin at the exits to Red Square. In this way, St. Basil's iconic status also has an extremely tangible element.

The Kremlin

TripSavvy / Christopher Larson

When you think of The Kremlin, it's unlikely that positive images enter your mind. The fact that simply saying the word "Kremlin" is too vague a descriptor (most Russian cities have their own Kremlin complexes; you should say "Moscow Kremlin") notwithstanding, this misunderstood place is incredibly beautiful, even if you don't like the policy that comes out of it.

Senate Square

In spite of its name, which refers to the role the building that rises above the square played during Imperial Russia, Senate Square is actually home to Russia's presidential administration, currently helmed by Vladimir Putin. In order to see where Russia's legislature operates from, walk just outside Red Square to the Duma parliament building.

Dormition Cathedral

Dating back to the year 1479, the gold-domed Dormition Cathedral pays homage to an Orthodox religious feast that commemorates the death of the Virgin Mary . As is the case with St. Basil's, it is curious that such a conspicuously religious structure was able to survive through the Soviet period.

Armoury Chamber

Though it takes its name from the fact that it housed Russia's royal arsenal when it was built in the 16th century, the most notable resident of the Kremlin's Armoury Chamber today is the Russian Diamond Fund.

Notable Kremlin Towers

Robert Schrader

The interior of the Moscow Kremlin is more beautiful and inviting than you'd expect, but the walls and towers that rise around it better live up to the intimidation with which the complex is associated. 

Borovitskaya Tower

Named to commemorate the dense forest that once stood atop the mount where it's built, this tower is extremely picturesque. Built in the late 15th century, it's visible from most places in the square, and also as you walk along the Moskva River.

Nikolskaya Tower

Also built in the year 1491, this tower currently suffered destruction at the hands of Napoleon's army in the 19th century. What you see now is the result of an 1816 re-design and renovation, though artillery fire during the Russian Revolution also caused superficial damage to the tower, named to honor St. Nikolas of Mozhaysk , so it's difficult to know which elements of it are original.

Spasskaya Tower

Known in English as the "Savior's Tower," this iconic, star-topped tower is perhaps the best-known of all the Kremlin's towers. Built in 1491 like the other two towers on this list, it's certainly the most photographed. As a result of its proximity to St. Basil's, it often makes its way into tourists' pictures.

Mausoleum of Lenin

Just as it's strange to learn how many religious monuments survived through the Soviet period, it's a bit odd to think that Lenin's preserved body still sits in a mausoleum just beneath the walls of the Kremlin on Red Square, given the lack of consensus about the ultimate impact of his Revolution, even in Russia.

It's not guaranteed that you'll be able to see the body (which, believe it or not, seems to be improving with age ) when you go, and if you do you will likely have to wait in line, but even strolling past the outside of the Lenin Mausoleum, flanked by stone-faced guards that almost look like statues, illuminates the gravity of his body still being here.

GUM Shopping Center

You might cringe, at least initially, when you realize that one of the most iconic stops on a tour of Red Square is a department store—until you see said department store, that is. Built in 1893 and known during Soviet times as the State Department Store, GUM  ( Glávnyj Universáľnyj Magazín​ or Main Universal Store in English) hearkens back to the grandeur of the late 19th century, both seen from the outside (especially, when lit up at night) and the interior, which might have you feeling like you're further west in Europe.

A trip inside GUM is a particularly good idea during winter, when frigid temperatures outside will have you savoring the heat, the quality of souvenirs, confections and other goods sold inside notwithstanding. Also, make sure not to confuse GUM with CDM, which sits near the Bolshoi Theatre, even though both are stunning and iconic in their own right.

State Historical Museum

The Russian State Historical Museum is located near Voskresensky Gates, though you should wait until after you've seen the first few attractions of Red Square and the Kremlin to head back there and go inside. To be sure, as you pass by its facade (whose late-19th century grandeur somewhat obscures that fact that it's currently a museum accessible to the public) you might not even think to try and gain entry.

Once inside the museum, you can plan to spend at least a couple of hours, given that artifacts here date back to the very beginning of the Russian state in the ninth century. As is the case with GUM, this will be a particularly alluring prospect if you visit in winter, when Moscow is arguably at its most beautiful, but certainly at its least tolerable. 

Minin-Pozharsky Monument

It's somewhat easy to disregard this monument, which pays homage to the two Russian princes who ended the so-called "Time of Troubles" in the mid-16th century, during which Polish-Lithuanian forces occupied Russia, among other awful things including a famine. That's because the statue currently sits just at the base of St. Basil's Cathedral, which makes it very difficult to photograph or even see without being overwhelmed by that much more famous edifice.

Though the statue originally sat at the very center of Red Square, it came to be an obstacle to the movement of tanks during the Soviet period, much like the Voskresensky Gates. As a result, authorities moved it during that time, and it's stayed where you currently find it ever since.

Kazan Cathedral

Taken by itself, the smokey-pink Kazan Cathedral is an architectural marvel; originally built in the 17th century, the church you find here today, located just north of the GUM department store, dates back only to 1993.

Unfortunately, since it sits not only in the shadow of GUM, but also in the shadow St. Basil's and the Towers of the Kremlin, it's easy to miss entirely if you aren't looking. As a result, you might wait until you've seen just about everything else in Red Square before coming here to take photos, and to appreciate the understated beauty of this oft-overlooked cathedral.

Moskva River

As you head south from St. Basil's Cathedral to exit Red Square, make sure to walk onto Bolshoy Moskvoretskiy Bridge, which crosses the Moskva River. If you look due north, you can get an excellent shot of the church framed, on the left, by the towers of the Kremlin. Directing your gaze a bit to the west allows you to see the skyscrapers of Moscow City as they rise above the Kremlin's walls.

Walking westward along the riverbank is also a worthwhile excursion, for the views it provides of Red Square and the Kremlin, as well as the fact that doing so takes you to other iconic Moscow attractions, including Gorky Park and the Pushkin Museum. The views you enjoy from the river and the bridge are particularly stunning at night, though you should make sure you bring a tripod if you want to get a clear picture, given how strong winds over and near the river can be.

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Our 20 Best Moscow Day Tours of 2022

See all that Moscow has to offer by choosing one or more of our incredible Moscow day tours. Visit Red Square , St. Basil’s , the Kremlin or perhaps a vodka museum and the fantastic Moscow metro system , we have it all. Our expert, informative and fun guides will help you get to know Europe’s largest city. Please click on the day tour details to learn more or contact us for more information about our Moscow tours using the form at the side of the page.  You can also schedule a call with one of our Russian travel specialists to learn more.

Head to the heart of Moscow with a professional guide on a 4-hour private walk through the city center. See Tverskaya and Old Arbat streets, Theatre Square with the world-famous Bolshoi Theatre, and the former KGB headquarters...

• Schedule Daily 09:00 - 20:00
• Languages English-speaking guide is guaranteed. Other languages are on request.
• Walking tours Transportation is not included
• PRIVATE TOUR This is a private tour, there won't be other people in your group

Panoramic City Tour. This Moscow tour is a great start to your trip and the best way to get acquainted with many of the city’s major highlights. Our professional guide will escort you on a route that includes Vorobyevi...

• Schedule Daily 09:00 - 18:00
• Tours by car Transportation by private car/minivan is included

This tour offers a detailed look into the history and present-day life of the Jewish community of Moscow. On the tour, you will visit sites connected with the cultural and religious life of different Jewish families, as well...

• Schedule Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Sunday 11:00 - 20:00 Friday 10:00 - 14:00 Saturday not available

The tour begins with a drive or walk down Tverskaya Street – a Soviet masterpiece. In the years of Soviet power, Tverskaya began to undergo a transformation: it was widened to two and a half times its original size,...

This is a very interesting and insightful tour. You will visit places connected with Stalin’s terror - a time of great repression and fear. You will be shown monuments to the victims of the repression. You will then...

You will be told of the street’s interesting history and view the street’s artisan culture. You will also have the opportunity to view and purchase souvenirs from the street’s many craftsmen....

The Kremlin is truly a fascinating structure, at the same time it is an ancient tower, the city’s former military fortification, a palace, an armory, the sovereign treasury and the workplace of the Russian President....

• Schedule Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday 10:00 - 17:00 Thursday not available

This world-famous gallery contains masterpieces of Russian art beginning in the 10th century up until today. You will view exquisite Russian icons and paintings from the 18th and 19th century including works by Rublyov, Karavak,...

• Schedule Monday not available Tuesday, Wednesday, Sunday 10:00 - 17:00 Thursday, Friday, Saturday 10:00 - 20:00

Tour of the Novodevichy Monastery. Founded in 1524 by Grand Prince VasiliIoanovich, the original convent was enclosed by fortified walls and contained 12 towers. The structure served as a convent for women of noble birth...

• Schedule Daily 09:00 - 17:00

The Moscow Metro is one of the largest and most grandly built metro systems in the world. It was meant to be a showcase of the Soviet Union’s achievements for both the Russians themselves and for visitors from abroad....

• Schedule Daily 10:00 - 17:00

The history of Kolomenskoye stretches back for centuries. In 1380, Dmitri Donskoi’s army passed through Kolomenskoye on their way to the Kulikovo battlefield, and it was here that Donskoi celebrated his victory over...

• Schedule Monday not available Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Sunday 10:00 - 17:00 Saturday 11:00 - 18:00

Considered by some to be the Russian Vatican, Sergiev Posad is the temporary residence of the Patriarch of the Russian Orthodox Church. The Trinity St. Sergius Monastery (Lavra) was built in the first half of the 1340s by...

The Tsaritsyno Estate is located in the southern part of Moscow. The estate was constructed for Catherine the Great by the Russian architects Bazhenov and Kazakov in a romantic gothic style. The complex includes a landscape...

• Schedule Monday not available Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday 11:00 - 17:00 Saturday 11:00 - 19:00 Sunday 11:00 - 18:00

The Kuskovo Estate often called the Moscow Versailles due to its perfectly preserved French park, is an example of an 18th century, luxurious Moscow summer residence. Its history dates back to 1715, when the village of Kuskovo...

• Schedule Monday, Tuesday not available Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday 10:00 - 18:00

Vodka is an important component of Russian life, an element of national identity and everyday culture. We invite you to visit the Vodka Museum and feel the atmosphere of long-gone centuries. You will get to know the story...

• Schedule Daily 10:00 - 19:00

Take this opportunity to learn more about the Russian writer Lev Tolstoy. During the visit to the museum you will see part of a vast collection of exhibits connected to Tolstoy and his family including books and personal...

• Schedule Monday not available Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday 10:00 - 17:00 Thursday 12:00 - 19:00

This apartment museum located close to Patriarch Ponds became the prototype of the "bad apartment" described in the novel "The Master and Margarita." Currently the museum's collection includes more than three thousand...

• Schedule Monday not available Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday 12:00 - 19:00 Thursday 14:00 - 21:00

Express to Russia specializes in Moscow city excursions, an essential part of your Moscow travel itinerary. We offer a large variety of day excursions throughout Moscow and its suburbs. From  Red Square  and the  Kremlin  to a city tour of Moscow’s  Old Arbat Street  or the  Moscow metro , an excursion specializing in Stalin and the KGB and much more. No travel to Moscow is complete without taking a few of our day tours that most meet your interest in Russia.

Moscow City Tours

Our Moscow day excursions can be organized on foot or with transport. All of our excursions are led by an experienced guide, specializing in the subject matter of the tour. Excursions are privately run and can be booked for 1 traveler all the way up to large groups of travelers. We run our Moscow city tours in every season. This is because travel to Moscow is excellent in any season. In the summer take a stroll through  Gorky Park  or take a riverboat tour along the Moskva River. In the winter, see Moscow’s winter wonderland of ice and snow and then settle in for a cozy lunch or dinner with a hot bowl of borsht. In winter, spring and fall, you can beat the crowds at all of Moscow’s main attractions and museums. Regardless of when you come, Express to Russia will make sure that your trip is one of your best vacations ever.

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Travel Itinerary For One Week in Moscow: The Best of Moscow!

I just got back from one week in Moscow. And, as you might have already guessed, it was a mind-boggling experience. It was not my first trip to the Russian capital. But I hardly ever got enough time to explore this sprawling city. Visiting places for business rarely leaves enough time for sightseeing. I think that if you’ve got one week in Russia, you can also consider splitting your time between its largest cities (i.e. Saint Petersburg ) to get the most out of your trip. Seven days will let you see the majority of the main sights and go beyond just scratching the surface. In this post, I’m going to share with you my idea of the perfect travel itinerary for one week in Moscow.

Moscow is perhaps both the business and cultural hub of Russia. There is a lot more to see here than just the Kremlin and Saint Basil’s Cathedral. Centuries-old churches with onion-shaped domes dotted around the city are in stark contrast with newly completed impressive skyscrapers of Moscow City dominating the skyline. I spent a lot of time thinking about my Moscow itinerary before I left. And this city lived up to all of my expectations.

Travel Itinerary For One Week in Moscow

Day 1 – red square and the kremlin.

Metro Station: Okhotny Ryad on Red Line.

No trip to Moscow would be complete without seeing its main attraction. The Red Square is just a stone’s throw away from several metro stations. It is home to some of the most impressive architectural masterpieces in the city. The first thing you’ll probably notice after entering it and passing vendors selling weird fur hats is the fairytale-like looking Saint Basil’s Cathedral. It was built to commemorate one of the major victories of Ivan the Terrible. I once spent 20 minutes gazing at it, trying to find the perfect angle to snap it. It was easier said than done because of the hordes of locals and tourists.

As you continue strolling around Red Square, there’s no way you can miss Gum. It was widely known as the main department store during the Soviet Era. Now this large (yet historic) shopping mall is filled with expensive boutiques, pricey eateries, etc. During my trip to Moscow, I was on a tight budget. So I only took a retro-style stroll in Gum to get a rare glimpse of a place where Soviet leaders used to grocery shop and buy their stuff. In case you want some modern shopping experience, head to the Okhotny Ryad Shopping Center with stores like New Yorker, Zara, and Adidas.

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To continue this Moscow itinerary, next you may want to go inside the Kremlin walls. This is the center of Russian political power and the president’s official residence. If you’re planning to pay Kremlin a visit do your best to visit Ivan the Great Bell Tower as well. Go there as early as possible to avoid crowds and get an incredible bird’s-eye view. There are a couple of museums that are available during designated visiting hours. Make sure to book your ticket online and avoid lines.

Day 2 – Cathedral of Christ the Saviour, the Tretyakov Gallery, and the Arbat Street

Metro Station: Kropotkinskaya on Red Line

As soon as you start creating a Moscow itinerary for your second day, you’ll discover that there are plenty of metro stations that are much closer to certain sites. Depending on your route, take a closer look at the metro map to pick the closest.

The white marble walls of Christ the Saviour Cathedral are awe-inspiring. As you approach this tallest Orthodox Christian church, you may notice the bronze sculptures, magnificent arches, and cupolas that were created to commemorate Russia’s victory against Napoleon.

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Unfortunately, the current Cathedral is a replica, since original was blown to bits in 1931 by the Soviet government. The new cathedral basically follows the original design, but they have added some new elements such as marble high reliefs.

Home to some precious collection of artworks, in Tretyakov Gallery you can find more than 150,000 of works spanning centuries of artistic endeavor. Originally a privately owned gallery, it now has become one of the largest museums in Russia. The Gallery is often considered essential to visit. But I have encountered a lot of locals who have never been there.

Famous for its souvenirs, musicians, and theaters, Arbat street is among the few in Moscow that were turned into pedestrian zones. Arbat street is usually very busy with tourists and locals alike. My local friend once called it the oldest street in Moscow dating back to 1493. It is a kilometer long walking street filled with fancy gift shops, small cozy restaurants, lots of cute cafes, and street artists. It is closed to any vehicular traffic, so you can easily stroll it with kids.

Day 3 – Moscow River Boat Ride, Poklonnaya Hill Victory Park, the Moscow City

Metro Station: Kievskaya and Park Pobedy on Dark Blue Line / Vystavochnaya on Light Blue Line

Voyaging along the Moscow River is definitely one of the best ways to catch a glimpse of the city and see the attractions from a bit different perspective. Depending on your Moscow itinerary, travel budget and the time of the year, there are various types of boats available. In the summer there is no shortage of boats, and you’ll be spoiled for choice.

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If you find yourself in Moscow during the winter months, I’d recommend going with Radisson boat cruise. These are often more expensive (yet comfy). They offer refreshments like tea, coffee, hot chocolate, and, of course, alcoholic drinks. Prices may vary but mostly depend on your food and drink selection. Find their main pier near the opulent Ukraine hotel . The hotel is one of the “Seven Sisters”, so if you’re into the charm of Stalinist architecture don’t miss a chance to stay there.

The area near Poklonnaya Hill has the closest relation to the country’s recent past. The memorial complex was completed in the mid-1990s to commemorate the Victory and WW2 casualties. Also known as the Great Patriotic War Museum, activities here include indoor attractions while the grounds around host an open-air museum with old tanks and other vehicles used on the battlefield.

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The hallmark of the memorial complex and the first thing you see as you exit metro is the statue of Nike mounted to its column. This is a very impressive Obelisk with a statue of Saint George slaying the dragon at its base.

Maybe not as impressive as Shanghai’s Oriental Pearl Tower , the skyscrapers of the Moscow City (otherwise known as Moscow International Business Center) are so drastically different from dull Soviet architecture. With 239 meters and 60 floors, the Empire Tower is the seventh highest building in the business district.

The observation deck occupies 56 floor from where you have some panoramic views of the city. I loved the view in the direction of Moscow State University and Luzhniki stadium as well to the other side with residential quarters. The entrance fee is pricey, but if you’re want to get a bird’s eye view, the skyscraper is one of the best places for doing just that.

Day 4 – VDNKh, Worker and Collective Farm Woman Monument, The Ostankino TV Tower

Metro Station: VDNKh on Orange Line

VDNKh is one of my favorite attractions in Moscow. The weird abbreviation actually stands for Russian vystavka dostizheniy narodnogo khozyaystva (Exhibition of Achievements of the National Economy). With more than 200 buildings and 30 pavilions on the grounds, VDNKh serves as an open-air museum. You can easily spend a full day here since the park occupies a very large area.

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First, there are pavilions that used to showcase different cultures the USSR was made of. Additionally, there is a number of shopping pavilions, as well as Moskvarium (an Oceanarium) that features a variety of marine species. VDNKh is a popular venue for events and fairs. There is always something going on, so I’d recommend checking their website if you want to see some particular exhibition.

A stone’s throw away from VDNKh there is a very distinctive 25-meters high monument. Originally built in 1937 for the world fair in Paris, the hulking figures of men and women holding a hammer and a sickle represent the Soviet idea of united workers and farmers. It doesn’t take much time to see the monument, but visiting it gives some idea of the Soviet Union’s grandiose aspirations.

I have a thing for tall buildings. So to continue my travel itinerary for one week in Moscow I decided to climb the fourth highest TV tower in the world. This iconic 540m tower is a fixture of the skyline. You can see it virtually from everywhere in Moscow, and this is where you can get the best panoramic views (yep, even better than Empire skyscraper).

Parts of the floor are made of tempered glass, so it can be quite scary to exit the elevator. But trust me, as you start observing buildings and cars below, you won’t want to leave. There is only a limited number of tickets per day, so you may want to book online. Insider tip: the first tour is cheaper, you can save up to $10 if go there early.

Day 5 – A Tour To Moscow Manor Houses

Metro Station: Kolomenskoye, Tsaritsyno on Dark Green Line / Kuskovo on Purple Line

I love visiting the manor houses and palaces in Moscow. These opulent buildings were generally built to house Russian aristocratic families and monarchs. Houses tend to be rather grand affairs with impressive architecture. And, depending on the whims of the owners, some form of a landscaped garden.

During the early part of the 20th century though, many of Russia’s aristocratic families (including the family of the last emperor) ended up being killed or moving abroad . Their manor houses were nationalized. Some time later (after the fall of the USSR) these were open to the public. It means that today a great many of Moscow’s finest manor houses and palaces are open for touring.

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There are 20 manor houses scattered throughout the city and more than 25 in the area around. But not all of them easily accessible and exploring them often takes a lot of time. I’d recommend focusing on three most popular estates in Moscow that are some 30-minute metro ride away from Kremlin.

Sandwiched between the Moscow River and the Andropov Avenue, Kolomenskoye is a UNESCO site that became a public park in the 1920’s. Once a former royal estate, now it is one of the most tranquil parks in the city with gorgeous views. The Ascension Church, The White Column, and the grounds are a truly grand place to visit.

You could easily spend a full day here, exploring a traditional Russian village (that is, in fact, a market), picnicking by the river, enjoying the Eastern Orthodox church architecture, hiking the grounds as well as and wandering the park and gardens with wildflower meadows, apple orchards, and birch and maple groves. The estate museum showcases Russian nature at its finest year-round.

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If my travel itinerary for one week in Moscow was a family tree, Tsaritsyno Park would probably be the crazy uncle that no-one talks about. It’s a large park in the south of the city of mind-boggling proportions, unbelievable in so many ways, and yet most travelers have never heard of it.

The palace was supposed to be a summer home for Empress Catherine the Great. But since the construction didn’t meet with her approval the palace was abandoned. Since the early 1990’s the palace, the pond, and the grounds have been undergoing renovations. The entire complex is now looking brighter and more elaborately decorated than at possibly any other time during its history. Like most parks in Moscow, you can visit Tsaritsyno free of charge, but there is a small fee if you want to visit the palace.

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Last, but by no means least on my Moscow itinerary is Kuskovo Park . This is definitely an off-the-beaten-path place. While it is not easily accessible, you will be rewarded with a lack of crowds. This 18th-century summer country house of the Sheremetev family was one of the first summer country estates of the Russian nobility. And when you visit you’ll quickly realize why locals love this park.

Like many other estates, Kuskovo has just been renovated. So there are lovely French formal garden, a grotto, and the Dutch house to explore. Make sure to plan your itinerary well because the estate is some way from a metro station.

Day 6 – Explore the Golden Ring

Creating the Moscow itinerary may keep you busy for days with the seemingly endless amount of things to do. Visiting the so-called Golden Ring is like stepping back in time. Golden Ring is a “theme route” devised by promotion-minded journalist and writer Yuri Bychkov.

Having started in Moscow the route will take you through a number of historical cities. It now includes Suzdal, Vladimir, Kostroma, Yaroslavl and Sergiev Posad. All these awe-inspiring towns have their own smaller kremlins and feature dramatic churches with onion-shaped domes, tranquil residential areas, and other architectural landmarks.

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I only visited two out of eight cities included on the route. It is a no-brainer that Sergiev Posad is the nearest and the easiest city to see on a day trip from Moscow. That being said, you can explore its main attractions in just one day. Located some 70 km north-east of the Russian capital, this tiny and overlooked town is home to Trinity Lavra of St. Sergius, UNESCO Site.

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Sergiev Posad is often described as being at the heart of Russian spiritual life. So it is uncommon to see the crowds of Russian pilgrims showing a deep reverence for their religion. If you’re traveling independently and using public transport, you can reach Sergiev Posad by bus (departs from VDNKh) or by suburban commuter train from Yaroslavskaya Railway Station (Bahnhof). It takes about one and a half hours to reach the town.

Trinity Lavra of St. Sergius is a great place to get a glimpse of filling and warming Russian lunch, specifically at the “ Gostevaya Izba ” restaurant. Try the duck breast, hearty potato and vegetables, and the awesome Napoleon cake.

Day 7 – Gorky Park, Izmailovo Kremlin, Patriarch’s Ponds

Metro Station: Park Kultury or Oktyabrskaya on Circle Line / Partizanskaya on Dark Blue Line / Pushkinskaya on Dark Green Line

Gorky Park is in the heart of Moscow. It offers many different types of outdoor activities, such as dancing, cycling, skateboarding, walking, jogging, and anything else you can do in a park. Named after Maxim Gorky, this sprawling and lovely park is where locals go on a picnic, relax and enjoy free yoga classes. It’s a popular place to bike around, and there is a Muzeon Art Park not far from here. A dynamic location with a younger vibe. There is also a pier, so you can take a cruise along the river too.

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The Kremlin in Izmailovo is by no means like the one you can find near the Red Square. Originally built for decorative purposes, it now features the Vernissage flea market and a number of frequent fairs, exhibitions, and conferences. Every weekend, there’s a giant flea market in Izmailovo, where dozens of stalls sell Soviet propaganda crap, Russian nesting dolls, vinyl records, jewelry and just about any object you can imagine. Go early in the morning if you want to beat the crowds.

All the Bulgakov’s fans should pay a visit to Patriarch’s Ponds (yup, that is plural). With a lovely small city park and the only one (!) pond in the middle, the location is where the opening scene of Bulgakov’s novel Master and Margarita was set. The novel is centered around a visit by Devil to the atheistic Soviet Union is considered by many critics to be one of the best novels of the 20th century. I spent great two hours strolling the nearby streets and having lunch in the hipster cafe.

Conclusion and Recommendations

To conclude, Moscow is a safe city to visit. I have never had a problem with getting around and most locals are really friendly once they know you’re a foreigner. Moscow has undergone some serious reconstruction over the last few years. So you can expect some places to be completely different. I hope my one week Moscow itinerary was helpful! If you have less time, say 4 days or 5 days, I would cut out day 6 and day 7. You could save the Golden Ring for a separate trip entirely as there’s lots to see!

What are your thoughts on this one week Moscow itinerary? Are you excited about your first time in the city? Let me know in the comments below!

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24 comments.

Ann Snook-Moreau

Moscow looks so beautiful and historic! Thanks for including public transit information for those of us who don’t like to rent cars.

MindTheTravel

Yup, that is me 🙂 Rarely rent + stick to the metro = Full wallet!

Mariella Blago

Looks like you had loads of fun! Well done. Also great value post for travel lovers.

Thanks, Mariella!

I have always wanted to go to Russia, especially Moscow. These sights look absolutely beautiful to see and there is so much history there!

Agree! Moscow is a thousand-year-old city and there is definitely something for everyone.

Tara Pittman

Those are amazing buildings. Looks like a place that would be amazing to visit.

Adriana Lopez

Never been to Moscow or Russia but my family has. Many great spots and a lot of culture. Your itinerary sounds fantastic and covers a lot despite it is only a short period of time.

What was their favourite thing about Russia?

Gladys Parker

I know very little about Moscow or Russia for the\at matter. I do know I would have to see the Red Square and all of its exquisite architectural masterpieces. Also the CATHEDRAL OF CHRIST THE SAVIOUR. Thanks for shedding some light on visiting Moscow.

Thanks for swinging by! The Red Square is a great starting point, but there way too many places and things to discover aside from it!

Ruthy @ Percolate Kitchen

You are making me so jealous!! I’ve always wanted to see Russia.

Moscow is in my bucket list, I don’t know when I can visit there, your post is really useful. As a culture rich place we need to spend at least week.

DANA GUTKOWSKI

Looks like you had a great trip! Thanks for all the great info! I’ve never been in to Russia, but this post makes me wanna go now!

Wow this is amazing! Moscow is on my bucket list – such an amazing place to visit I can imagine! I can’t wait to go there one day!

The building on the second picture looks familiar. I keep seeing that on TV.

Reesa Lewandowski

What beautiful moments! I always wish I had the personality to travel more like this!

Perfect itinerary for spending a week in Moscow! So many places to visit and it looks like you had a wonderful time. I would love to climb that tower. The views I am sure must have been amazing!

I was lucky enough to see the skyline of Moscow from this TV Tower and it is definitely mind-blowing.

Chelsea Pearl

Moscow is definitely up there on my travel bucket list. So much history and iconic architecture!

Thumbs up! 🙂

Blair Villanueva

OMG I dream to visit Moscow someday! Hope the visa processing would be okay (and become more affordable) so I could pursue my dream trip!

Yup, visa processing is the major downside! Agree! Time and the money consuming process…

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After roller-coaster trip, Reds return home to face Angels

The Cincinnati Reds return home after an up-and-down six-game road trip and open a three-game set against the Los Angeles Angels on Friday night.

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The Reds won their first three games of the trip, outscoring the Chicago White Sox 27-5 to record their first sweep of the season.

But then Cincinnati was outscored 17-5 and lost three in a row against the Seattle Mariners.

On Wednesday, the Reds managed just one hit -- an Elly De La Cruz solo home run in the second -- and a walk before Seattle pitching retired the final 22 Reds in order.

"Three games don't define our team by any means," Reds manager David Bell said after Wednesday's setback.

Cincinnati, which is already missing TJ Friedl (wrist) and Matt McLain (shoulder), didn't have first baseman Christian Encarnacion-Strand and third baseman Jeimer Candelario in the series finale due to illness.

"Of course we want everyone here," Bell said. "We want everyone healthy. But all teams go through this, and our team fully expected to go out and win."

The Reds announced Friday that left-hander Nick Lodolo (1-0, 0.00 ERA) will start the series opener. Lodolo, 26, struck out 10 and gave up one hit and one walk in 5 2/3 scoreless innings while beating the Chicago White Sox last Saturday. He has never faced the Angels.

The Angels will send left-hander Tyler Anderson (2-1, 1.47), who will make his fourth start and third on the road this season. Anderson is in his ninth season and second with the Angels.

In his last start on Sunday in Boston, Anderson took the loss after allowing three runs on four hits over 4 1/3 innings, striking out four and walking three.

Anderson is 2-1 with a 3.31 ERA in six career appearances (four starts) against Cincinnati.

The Angels are looking to finish their 10-game road trip on a successful note. After dropping two of three in Boston, Los Angeles split four games against the Tampa Bay Rays, including its 2-1 loss Thursday.

Mike Trout leads the American League with eight homers but generated the Angels' only run when he walked in the sixth, stole two bases and scored on Miguel Sano's sacrifice fly.

"That's just what he does. That's a part of his game," Angels manager Ron Washington said. "That's a part of his skill set. It doesn't always have to be when he hits balls out of the ballpark. Get on first, steal second, steal third and got a run."

Taylor Ward has six homers and a team-leading 21 RBIs for the Angels, who were held without a home run Thursday for just the second time in their first 19 games.

Los Angeles showed some resiliency Wednesday, one night after losing four leads from the ninth inning on and falling 7-6 in 13 innings to Tampa Bay. The Angels trailed 4-3 heading into the ninth before rallying for a 5-4 win.

Los Angeles announced Wednesday that 31-year-old reliever Robert Stephenson, who was signed to a three-year, $33 million deal in the offseason, will miss this season due to an elbow injury.

Stephenson missed most of spring training with a sore shoulder before feeling elbow discomfort just four pitches into his first Triple-A rehab outing last Saturday.

--Field Level Media

Copyright 2024 STATS LLC and Associated Press. Any commercial use or distribution without the express written consent of STATS LLC and Associated Press is strictly prohibited.

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