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Continental Croatia meets the Adriatic in Istria (Istra to Croats), the heart-shaped, 3600-sq-km peninsula in the country's northwest. The bucolic interior of rolling hills and fertile plains attracts food- and culture-focused visitors to Istria’s hilltop villages, rural hotels and farmhouse restaurants, while the indented coastline is enormously popular with the sun-and-sea set. Though vast hotel complexes line much of the coast and the rocky beaches are not Croatia’s best, facilities are wide-ranging, the sea is clean and secluded spots are still plentiful.

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Art and Culture

Mar 6, 2024 • 5 min read

Spend time in Istria and you’re bound to come across vestiges of its Roman past – follow this guide to see the region's most impressive Roman sights.

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Istria and beyond

Picture of the Basilika Crkva Sv. Germana on the Croatian island of Brijuni during daytime in summer

15 Reasons to Travel to Istria, Croatia

Adventurous Kate contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase through these links, I will earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Thanks!

The first time I traveled to Istria, Croatia, it was on a bit of a whim. I was desperate to finally visit the Balkans in general and Croatia in particular; when researching, I found out it was cheapest to fly into Pula. Well. If it was that much cheaper, why not?

I did book that flight to Pula, deciding to spend a few days exploring the surroundings. And I fell for Istria — hard. The Italian flavor, the hill towns that rose out of the green landscape, the way that roses seemed to burst out of the pavement. This place was so special. I can’t believe I almost didn’t visit it!

Istria hadn’t been in my original Croatia plan — but it ended up being one of the highlights of my trip. So much that I returned to see more. I’ve been recommending it nonstop to my friends for years. On my last trip to Istria, I even met up with a reader!

The Dalmatian Coast may get most of the attention in Croatia — but you might be even more enchanted by the northwest heart-shaped peninsula.

Here’s why you should travel to Istria.

Table of Contents

Here is a map of Istria, with the most popular destinations highlighted. As you can see, it’s well-connected within Croatia, and right on the border of Slovenia, and with easy access via ferry or driving to Italy.

The nice thing about Istria is that pretty much any two points are within a two-hour drive of each other. And most journeys are shorter than that. If you rent a car in Istria (and you should), literally everywhere is day-trippable!

A narrow cobblestoned street in Rovinj. The buildings have green and red shutters and laundry hangs out of some buildings. It looks a lot like Italy.

Italian Flavor in Croatia

As soon as you arrive in Istria, you’ll be struck by how much Istria feels like Italy. The vineyards, the olive groves, seaside villages painted the colors of Liguria, hill towns that look straight out of Tuscany. And you’ll notice that places here have Italian names as well as Croatian names — Rovinj is Rovigno, Bale is Valle, Grožnjan is Grisignana.

Look at that picture above. If someone asked you what country that was, you’d say Italy, wouldn’t you? It’s actually Rovinj!

Istria has a long history of being conquered and reconquered by different cultures: the Franks in 788, the Venetians in 1145, the Hapsburg Empire in 1348, Napoleon in 1797. Between World War I and World War II, Istria was part of Italy; following the war, it became part of Yugoslavia, before Croatia became independent in 1991.

As a result, Istria is a mélange of different cultures and has a very different feel from the Dalmatian Coast. Food is the center of life; locals paint their homes bright colors. And the Italian influence remains steady — from the many kinds of olive oil to the wild, animated conversations of locals.

A stone staircase leading up into the pastel colored buildings of the town of Labin, Croatia.

Picture-Perfect Small Towns

If you love charming small towns, Istria is the best place in Italy to explore them! Each town has its own character, and each town’s residents will claim it’s the best town in Istria!

A perfect day in Istria would be setting out early and visiting four or five towns over the course of a day, stopping in one for a leisurely lunch.

So which small towns are best to explore? I recommend you explore Motovun and Grožnjan at the absolute minimum. (They’re also a 20-minute drive apart, so you can visit both in a single day.)

But there are plenty of other good ones: Vodnjan and Bale pair well together. Labin makes a nice getaway from Pula. Umag and Novigrad are beautiful coastal small towns. Plus, there’s Hum — which claims to be the smallest town in the world.

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Ah, truffles. One of the most expensive and luxurious foods on the planet. One of the most enchantingly recognizable tastes in the world.

Did I mention that Istria is rich in truffles? Truffle dishes are so common here that it’s almost an embarrassment of riches.

One of my favorite Istria experiences is ordering traditional fuži pasta with truffles and a glass of white Malvasia wine at one of the restaurants on the edge of the hilltop of Motovun, overlooking the landscape. These truffles are shaved thin enough to be translucent but thick enough to make a satisfying chew.

In New York, a plate of pasta with that many shaved truffles could run you around $50. Here in Istria? Maybe $11 or so.

With prices like those, why not get them for every meal?

The ancient stone arena in Pula, Croatia, close to the sea. The photo is an aerial one and you see lots of terra cotta roofs and church steeples surrounding the arena.

Pula’s Arena

Pula is the largest city in Istria, home to the peninsula’s airport. If you’re a fan of ruins in the least, you’ll need to stop in Pula to see its enormous Roman Arena!

Constructed between 27 BC and 67 AD, Pula’s arena is one of the six largest Roman amphitheaters in the world. It’s the only amphitheater to have all four side towers intact. It’s well worth exploring as an ancient monument — but if you play your timing right, you might even get to see a concert here!

Pula isn’t my first choice of where to stay in Istria — it’s a decent city, but I think other towns have more to offer. But Pula is a nice place to spend an afternoon or evening. Check out the Arena; stroll through the old town; get some pizza at Jupiter Pizzeria .

The mountaintop town of Motovun, perched on top of a hill, underneath a blue and white sky.

Motovun will take your breath away the first time you see it. You turn a corner and there it is, bursting out of the earth, a city improbably built on top of a hill. How can a place like this exist today? How do people actually live here?!

It’s a long, steep walk uphill to get to the top of Motovun. (If you have mobility difficulties, you may want to skip Motovun — there’s no way around the steep, slippery cobblestones.) Once you get to the top, you’re rewarded with views all over the countryside.

Definitely stop here for lunch overlooking the surrounding hills. Take a walk around the city walls, peering into corners. And if you’re here in late July or early August, you might get to experience the Motovun Film Festival!

(Tip: this photo was taken at a fast food restaurant called Fast Food Vidik. Stop there for photos! It’s the best view of the city.)

Jagged cliffs jutting into the bright teal ocean in Kamenjak, Croatia

Istria Beaches

You don’t come to Croatia for sandy beaches — and that’s true for Istria as well. (Yes, there are some sandy beaches here and there, but the vast majority of Croatia’s beaches are slabs of rock or pebble beaches.) But you end up with absolutely beautiful beaches and clear turquoise Adriatic water.

One of my favorite places to enjoy the beach in Istria is Cape Kamenjak, just south of the town of Premantura. This protected area, at the bottom tip of Istria’s heart-shaped peninsula, is home to more than 30 km of beaches. You can swim, cliff dive, rent boats, or just drive around until you find your own perfect beach.

There are some nice beaches on the edges of Rovinj, Rabac, and Umag as well if you want easier access to town.

Keep in mind that Istria’s summer isn’t as long as Dalmatia’s — if you’re looking for hot days and swimming, I’d recommend visiting Istria from mid-June to mid-September, with the warmest water in September. More on that below.

The brightly colored town of Vodnjan: yellow, peach, and blood-red buildings on an open square, underneath a bright blue sky.

Vodnjan and its Mummies

Vodnjan is one of the coolest small towns in Istria, easily situated between Rovinj and Pula. Vodnjan is a pretty cool place to hang out, with dramatic colors and tons of street art. That bright red building is one of the symbols of the town.

But what puts Vodnjan over the edge? Mummies. Actual mummies.

The Church of St. Blaise is home to the mummified remains of six saints: St. Leon Bembo, St. John Olini, and St. Nicolosa Bursa, as well as parts of St. Sebastian, St. Mary of Egypt, and St. Barbara. You go into the back of the church and they light up, one by one, telling you their stories.

Photography is absolutely not allowed, but just standing there, experiencing them on your own, is a creepy experience. The church is also home to a collection of sacral art.

The town of Rovinj, lit up in pink just before sunset. You see the peninsula of the Old Town jutting into the sea, where a church tower pokes straight up from the center. Boats circle the water around the old town.

Rovinj is the showstopper of Istria, and one of the most popular spots in the country. Dubrovnik may be more famous overall, but I think Rovinj is the most beautiful city in Croatia!

Rovinj is a photographer’s dream. It’s worth exploring Rovinj’s old city at different times of day, from different angles, and catching the sunset as well. One of the loveliest things to do in Rovinj is simply sit on the edge of the water with a drink, enjoying the scenery around you!

Rovinj also has some nice beaches, fun boat trips, and an interesting selection of shops. Honestly, I wouldn’t plan a trip to Istria without spending at least one day in Rovinj!

More on Rovinj:

Visiting Rovinj, Croatia: A Travel Guide

The stone city of Grožnjan, Croatia, with a courtyard, some buildings with pillars, one building with bright blue shutters.

Grožnjan and its Art and Music

Grožnjan isn’t just one of my favorite small towns in Istria — it’s one of my favorite small towns in the WORLD! This city, perched on a hill in the middle of the countryside, feels like a fairy tale. From the moment you’ve arrived, it feels like you’ve stepped into a new world.

Grožnjan is filled with interesting shops and galleries, making it a nice place to pick up a piece of artwork. (I myself picked up some vintage-style Croatia postcards.)

But best of all, Grožnjan is home to a music school. When you’re walking through the streets, you’ll hear a pianist and a singer practicing together, then in the next place you’ll hear a violinist tuning up, then you’ll hear an oboist practicing a solo.

Is Grožnjan touristy? Indeed it is. But trust me, it’s worth visiting.

This tiny town will always put me into a better mood.

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Istrian Wine

Yes indeed, Istria is a major wine region! Croatia is a very underrated wine country, in part because most of Croatia’s wineries are small operations and don’t do much international exportation.

Malvazija Istarska , or Malvasia, is Istria’s signature varietal. A light white wine with citrusy notes, it pairs well with oysters and shellfish — though I personally think there’s no better accompaniment than a plate of truffle pasta!

Teran is a full-bodied red varietal with berry notes that’s starting to earn international recognition.

Driving around the countryside and stopping at wineries is a wonderful way to spend a day in Istria — though keep in mind that you need a designated driver!

The Rovinj Wine Festival takes place in September, with opportunities to sample lots of Istrian wines. And don’t forget to say cheers in Croatian — Živjeli!

A courtyard cafe. You see wooden tables with different unmatched chairs, a wooden painted sign that reads "Throne Theater", shelves with small flowerpots on them, and a painting of a chair with flowers on the background.

A Child-Free Jazz Cafe in Bale

Yeah, this might be a bit unusual to put on a list, but I think it’s worth it! Back when I first visited Istria in 2012, Bale was the town on everyone’s lips. Some big publications like Lonely Planet were rhapsodic about Bale. (Personally, I think Bale is nice, but Grožnjan, Vodnjan, and Motovun are nicer.)

Bale’s coolest landmark is Kamene Price — an artsy cafe, performance space, and guesthouse. And when we stopped in for a coffee, we noticed a sign saying that they were a child-free establishment.

Don’t get me wrong, Croatia is massively child-friendly. Which is great.

But sometimes it’s nice to have places where you can sit and know that you can enjoy a coffee in peace without kids turning it into a war zone.

The Euphrasian Basilica of Porec, flanked with columns on each side and a gold Byzantine mosaic above the altar.

Euphrasian Basilica in Poreč

Istria is home to exactly one UNESCO World Heritage Site: the Episcopal Complex of the Euphrasian Basilica in the Historic Centre of Poreč. This religious complex is renowned for its classical and Byzantine elements, both of which you can see in the photo above.

While it’s a nice place to visit for the historic value, seeing the chapel at the end is spell-binding. The incredible gold-painted Byzantine monuments; all the different patterns carved into the stone. It’s one of the most marvelous places to see in Istria.

Poreč is just north of Rovinj on the coast — though you have to drive around the Lim Channel, so the drive takes 40 minutes. The town to me felt like a baby Rovinj. I hear it’s one of the bigger party spots in Istria.

Poreč is definitely worth a quick visit, no matter where you’re staying on your Istria vacation.

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The Smallest Town in the World

The Istrian hamlet of Hum claims to be the smallest town in the world. Is it really? Probably not. But that’s what they call themselves, and it’s a delightful stop in the heart of Istria.

Hum is worth a wander when you’re driving around and looking at hill towns in the greenest parts of Istria.

A red decorative bicycle with red geraniums in its basket in Grožnjan, Croatia.

Affordable Prices

I always warn people that Croatia is more expensive than people think it is — mainly because people erroneously believe Croatia to be Eastern Europe. ( Don’t ever call Croatia Eastern Europe, by the way. ) You won’t pay Scandinavia prices — but prices in Croatia tend to be closer to Italy, Spain, or Greece.

That being said, Istria tends to be cheaper than many places on the Dalmatian Coast, especially popular spots like Dubrovnik and Hvar .

It’s a good idea to compare similar types of destinations with each other: Rovinj is cheaper than Dubrovnik; Pula is cheaper than Split; Umag and Novigrad are cheaper than, say, Trogir. Getting an apartment near Premantura will be cheaper than near Makarska.

Istria isn’t cheaper than everywhere in Italy, but it’s definitely cheaper than Tuscany.

Food and wine in Istria tends to be cheaper than Dalmatia, too, especially when it comes to the famous truffles.

No matter which country you’re visiting, small towns, inland destinations, and rural areas will run you less than cities, coastal areas, and popular tourist spots.

Finally, if you’re looking to have a cheap trip to Istria, consider camping! Istria is a very popular destination for camping in Europe, and there are many excellent campgrounds.

Beachgoers sitting on a concrete slab on the edge of a bright blue ocean in Opatija, Croatia, with Hapsburg-style ornate pink and orange buildings in the background.

Easy Access to the Rest of Croatia

If you’re looking to make Istria a portion of a longer Croatia trip, that’s a great idea. In fact, that’s what I’ve always done.

From Motovun, it’s a three-hour drive to Zagreb , a 3.5-hour drive to the Plitvice Lakes, a four-hour drive to Zadar ( one of my favorites! ) and a five-hour drive to Split, from where you can get ferries to islands.

Whatever you do, I recommend stopping for a coffee in Opatija on the way out. Opatija is at the entrance to the Istrian peninsula but technically not part of Istria county. It is VERY popular with Austrian travelers, so much that it’s called the “Austrian Riviera.”

It’s a peculiar place. There are large Hapsburg-style buildings, crenellated in pink and orange and yellow, almost like wedding cakes. Oh, and speaking of cakes, there are lots of them — because the Austrians know their way around coffee and cake. As for the beach, here there’s just a slab of concrete pushed up against the bright blue water, topped with hundreds of beach chairs and umbrellas.

I would never choose to spend extended time in Opatija, but it’s worth a coffee, a cake, and a stroll along the water.

A stunning orange-yellow-pink sunset with the tower of Rovinj in the background; in the foreground are small white boats.

Best Places to Visit in Istria

There are so many wonderful places to visit in Istria — but unless you have a few weeks to spend here, you’ll need to pare down the list. I think there are a few places that stand head and shoulders above the rest.

Spend one day in Motovun and Grožnjan. These are the two quintessential hill towns of Istria — two marvelous small towns in which you’ll want to linger. If you’ve got more time, add in a visit to Buje, too.

Spend one day in Rovinj. I think Rovinj is the prettiest city in Croatia — yes, even more so than Dubrovnik — and you really need a full day to explore all that makes Rovinj magical.

Spend half a day or a full day beach-hopping in Kamenjak, followed by an evening in Pula. On the way back, stop in Pula to check out the Arena, stroll the old town and grab some dinner. If you’re only spending a few hours in Kamenjak, add in quick visits to Bale and Vodnjan, next door to each other.

Those are the top destinations I’d prioritize. But if you have more time:

If you like seaside villages like Rovinj, check out Umag, Novigrad, Poreč, and Rabac.

If you like small towns like Grožnjan, Bale, and Vodnjan, check out Labin, Buje, Buzet, and Pazin.

If you like nature destinations like Kamenjak, be sure to check out the Brijuni Islands, visit the Lim Channel, and go exploring, looking for lesser-known beaches!

ROXANICH Wine Hotel, a modern pale red building with the Mountain View of Motovun in the background. In the foreground is a roof covered with green vegetation.

Where to Stay in Istria

ROXANICH , a family owned boutique wine hotel in Motovun, is my top recommendation for where to stay in Istria. This is the hotel that I love to enjoy on my travels — it’s family-owned and very local; it’s quirky, modern and daring; and it’s small enough for you to feel special. (ROXANICH hosted me for three nights; all opinions are my own).

ROXANICH is located in Motovun, which gives you easy access all over Istria, but it’s also located at the bottom of Motovun, not on the hill, so you don’t need to spend 20 minutes climbing the hill to get there every day. There’s ample space and plenty of parking, too.

Just take a look at this place!

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ROXANICH is a small property that feels like a resort — and there’s plenty of space. The food is excellent, too, and you could easily spend a few days without going far from the property.

But what’s interesting is what they do with wine.

Owner Mladen Rožanić is constantly trying out new innovations with his wine. Like most Istrian wineries, they have their own Malvasia, along with plenty of whites, reds, and rosés.

But they also blend their local grapes with grapes from different regions — like Dingač, my beloved red wine from Pelješac.

Combining your own grapes with grapes grown in another region? Many winemakers would consider that sacrilege. Not Mladen. It’s all a wonderful experiment to him.

And it goes well beyond Istria. I couldn’t believe my eyes when I saw their Georgian qvevri — underground wine containers made of clay that I never dreamed I’d see outside Georgia! There’s niche, and then there’s qvevri wine made in Istria.

Can you wine taste? Can you wine taste!! Oh yes. We did quite a bit of tasting of wine. Endlessly interesting.

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I really enjoyed staying at ROXANICH. After a long day of road-tripping around Istria, I loved coming back to have a dip in the pool and a cocktail, and at night, it was pleasant sitting under the stars and enjoying the latest wine recommended by the sommelier.

Rates at ROXANICH start at 77 Euros per night ($90 USD). I recommend staying three nights to get the most out of the hotel and its idyllic surroundings.

Beyond Motovun, if you have more than four days to spend in Istria, I suggest basing in two different places — perhaps pair somewhere inland with somewhere along the seaside.

Additionally, make sure you don’t base somewhere too small. As much as I adore Grožnjan, it’s tiny and it gets pretty dead at night. Plus I wouldn’t be a fan of driving that narrow hilltop road in darkness!

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Best Time to Visit Istria

Most travelers to Croatia come during the summer months — and that goes for Istria as well. This is when Istria gets the most visitors and prices are at their highest.

Summer is lovely, though it can get very hot in July and August. But you should keep in mind that while Istria has a Mediterranean climate and is perched on the Adriatic, it doesn’t get as hot as Dalmatia in the south of Croatia. When your friends are sunning themselves in Hvar in May, you may be going around in a jacket or cardigan in Pula.

In Dubrovnik, you can go swimming in October; I doubt you’d want to do that in Istria.

For that reason, I recommend visiting Istria in the shoulder season: September would be my top recommended month. By this point it’s still warm and lovely, but kids are back in school, which cuts down on the crowds. And if you stay into the fall, you’ll get to enjoy the best of the harvest. Including plenty of new wines!

  • Best Time to Visit Croatia

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How to Get Around Istria

The best way to get around Istria is to drive — plain and simple. Like I said, I wouldn’t get around Istria any other way!

Croatia is one of my favorite countries in Europe to explore by car. The roads are in excellent condition. The signage is clear and easy to navigate for English speakers. The drivers aren’t nearly as aggressive as their neighbors (yep, I’m talking about you, Slovenia and Montenegro).

The only catch is that the tolls on the major highways can be quite pricey. For example, Zagreb to Pula, just over a three-hour drive, costs 139 kuna, or $12.68.

But if you’re staying within Istria, those highways can easily be avoided, and it doesn’t make a huge difference in driving time. Plus, those curvy smaller roads are way more fun to drive!

Remember that automatic cars are more expensive than manual cars (driving stick) in Croatia, and if you’re driving into Slovenia or Italy, as many Istria visitors do, be sure to let the company know, as this could change your pricing and insurance coverage.

If you don’t drive, there are ways to get around Istria by public transportation, primarily by bus, but this limits your ability to visit smaller, less-connected towns. If I were exploring Istria without a car, I would base myself in the largest, best-connected towns and use a combination of buses and taxis to get from place to place. Uber is not available in Istria.

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Istria is Waiting for You!

Istria is one of the best places in Croatia — and it feels like such a surprise. Istria has meant a lot to me over the years, and I know it will mean a lot to you, too.

Go enjoy your time in Istria — then come back and tell me about it!

Planning a Trip to Croatia:

  • Two Weeks in Croatia Itinerary
  • What NOT to Do in Croatia
  • Solo Female Travel in Croatia: Is it Safe?
  • 30 Stunning Mediterranean Islands To Visit In Your Lifetime

Croatian Islands and the Dalmatian Coast:

  • How to Spend Three Days in Dubrovnik
  • Why Korčula, Croatia, is the Coolest Island of All
  • Vis, Croatia, is a Quietly Stunning Island
  • Dubrovnik Survival Guide
  • The Waterfalls of Krka National Park
  • A Place Like Zadar
  • 30 Fabulous Things To Do in Split, Croatia
  • 29 Sunny Things To Do In Hvar, Croatia

Istria and the North:

  • Guide to Rovinj, Croatia’s Prettiest City
  • 21 Unforgettable Things To Do In Zagreb, Croatia

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Have you been to Istria? Have any recommendations? Share away!

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Istria Croatia

The most visited region in Croatia, Istria is a heart-shaped peninsula located in the northern Adriatic.

Istria is rolling hills, medieval hilltop towns , historical coastal towns, rocky coast, breathtaking views, tasty food , excellent local wines, and olive groves. Many visitors compared it with Tuscany, and sometimes call it “Tuscany with colors”.

A complete travel guide to Istria Croatia

The region is conveniently located, and within five hours drive from many European cities, like Munich, Vienna, Ljubljana, Milano, Budapest, etc. Location is one of the reasons why so many tourist flock to this Croatian region.

Istria is bilingual and all the road signs and town names are in Croatian and Italian. Most people are fluent in both languages. Many also speak at least another foreign language; English and/ or German, being the most commonly spoken.

Compared with other Croatian regions, Istria feels more cosmopolitan.

Table of Contents

No matter what place in Istria you choose as your home base, you’ll be able to visit all top sights within an hour drive. Due to its shape, no matter where you are, other places are never more than 80 km away.

Location: Istria map

Istria destination guides

A Complete Travel Guide To Rovinj

Reasons to visit Istria Croatia

1 | Sun & Sea

Istria has very rich history, and lots of historical and natural sites, interesting events, and awesome cycling trails, but let’s be frank here – majority of people visit Istria for its beaches, sun and sea.

Yes, peeps, if you like an idea of yourself laying on a beach, a glass of cold (put your own drink) in hand, and dipping in the Adriatic whenever you feel, Istria is the place to go.

2 | Food & Wine

If you enjoy good food based on fresh, homegrown, and seasonal ingredients, washed down with a premium local wines, Istria is a right place to visit.

We’ll talk more in-depth about food, wine and restaurants in Istria, because it’s one of region’s main strengths.

Istria abounds in natural beauties, and lovely landscapes: from Ucka and Cicarija mountains, hills, meadows, forests, caves, caverns, and blue Adriatic Sea … all those natural sights are a reason enough to visit Istria.

Recommended reading:  Baredine Cave

4 | History

Istria is rich in history, and there are many historical sites worth visiting: Complex of Euphrasian Badilica in Porec, UNESCO world heritage site, Pula Colliseum, remains of Roman villas, many churches with amazing frescoes, well-preserved medieval towns, to name just few.

5 | Activities

Istrian tourism dates back to the times of Austria-Hungarian empire when first hotels, as we know them today, were built in coastal towns.

All this intro to say that Istrians know what visitors want, what kind of activities they enjoy, and they are here to provide it (and make money along the way).

There are so many things to do in Istria, that it will take ages to partake in all of them.

Recommended reading:

  • Istralandia
  • Dinosaur Park

Best time to visit Istria Croatia

Best time to visit Istria  is June and September. The weather is still nice, sea is still warm, there are way less people around, and the prices are lower.

Food and restaurants in Istria

Food here is amazing. Istria is the best region in Croatia when it comes to food and wine. Black and white truffles, cured meats, goat cheese, olive oil, home made pasta, steaks, … you name it, Istria has it.

Istria also has the best choice of restaurants. Unlike the rest of Croatia, many restaurants in Istria are open year around (except in January when they close for yearly vacation). Many restaurants close on Tuesday (October to May).

In Istria you can expect three kinds of restaurants: tavern-style restaurants serving traditional Istrian food like bean soup, homemade pasta, fuzi and pljukanci with various sauces, and steaks; fish restaurants serving lots of yummy and fresh sea food; and touristy restaurants serving just about anything (pizza, pasta, grilled meat and fish, risotto, … ).

In a good Istrian restaurant you can expect to pay around 250 kn per person for a 3-course meal with drinks. Pastas and risottos are around 50 Kn a portion, steaks around 140 Kn, fish is usually charged per weight (300-400 kn per kilo).

If you travel on budget, you can still eat cheap in Istria. Like in the rest of Croatia, you can find cheap snacks in bakeries. Lunch size savory and sweet pastries cost between 0,5 to 2€. Popular chain of bakeries you’ll find everywhere in Istria (and Croatia) is Mlinar.

Pizzas are good in Istria. Make sure to choose a pizzeria that bakes their pies in a wood-burning oven. You’ll get an excellent pizza for 6€. It’s so big that you’ll hardly be able to finish it alone.

Fine dining experience is expensive everywhere, but still in Istria you’ll find a great value for your money. For instance, a 7-course meal in the restaurant Marina in Novigrad will cost you 50€.

Wine in restaurants can be really pricey if you order bottled wine. A bottle of premium local wine in a restaurant cost 150 Kn and more. However, all restaurants serve also a table wine, called also a house wine. In Istria, it’s usually white wine Malvazija Istarska , or red wine Merlot. They cost 60 kn a liter, and they are really good.

Accommodation in Istria

Istria Croatia offers a good choice of accommodation : from campsites, to 5-star luxury hotels. There is something for everybody’s taste and budget. Prices vary according to the season, type of accommodation, location, and level of comfort.

High season is in July and August when the prices are at the highest. You can expect to pay a 40 € per day for two persons and a pitch with electricity in a campsite; studio apartment rental for two will set you back 70 € a day, in a 2-star hotel for a double room with breakfast you’ll pay 100 €, up to 500 € for a double room with breakfast in a 5-star hotel.

However, if you travel off-season (until mid June and after mid September), you can really get a bargain on your accommodation.

Accommodation is the most expensive in Rovinj, followed by Porec, while Novigrad, Vrsar , Rabac and Pula offer cheaper accommodation (for the same level of comfort).

Transportation in Istria

Transportation in Istria is a bit tricky. Intercity buses exist and they are not expensive. However they are not so frequent and they are slow. Train in Istria is almost nonexistent. Coastal towns, beside Pula, are not connected by the train at all. And Istria as a whole is not connected by train with the rest of Croatia. However, there are some trains scheduled to go from Pazin to Zagreb, but bear in mind that from Lupoglav train station to Rijeka there is no train, but bus connection. Don’t use trains to get in and around Istria, because it is very inconvenient. Taxis are expensive in Istria and you should avoid using them. The best way to travel to and around Istria is by car. Many hotel companies also offer free transfers to and from the airports. Ask directly before booking.

Beaches in Istria

Although majority of visitors to Istria visit this region for sun and sea, beaches are not Istria’s strongest point. The coast is rocky, but also beautiful, and well-preserved. You won’t find lots of construction right at the coastline; you’ll instead find lots of space for everybody. Thick pine forest, and sometimes olive trees, grow all the way to the sealine, creating lots of shadow.

Within tourist resorts, like Zelena Laguna or Lanterna, in Porec, or Lone Bay in Rovinj, you’ll find man-made pebble beaches. The best beaches in Istria are on the east coast of Istria, particularly in Rabac. Here rocky coast interchange with wonderful pebble beaches.

Our favorite beaches in Istria are Brsec, and Ravni at the east coast; beaches at Premantura in the south, and Delfin beach in Porec.

Things to see and do in Istria

Istria is a wonderful region not only to visit but to live in. You can read my musings on things I love about living in Istria . Istria is rich in history and natural beauty. It’s lush green a year around. It offers yummy food, great wines, dreamy hilltop towns, cycling trails. It feels very cosmopolitan, especially compared with the rest of Croatia.

Top sights include: Amphitheater in Pula, Euphrasian Basilica in Porec, Rovinj’ s Old Town, Brijuni National Park, and the hilltop towns of Motovun and Groznjan.

More posts on things to do in Istria you can find below.

Popular destinations in Istria Croatia

Towns popular among tourists are Porec, Rovinj, Pula, Vrsar, Umag, Rabac and Motovun. Here, you will find lots of accommodation choices, activities, bars, restaurants and events catering to tourists.

  • Umag is the town closest to Slovenian border and the first one to reach if you are coming from Italy. Its hinterland has a lot to offer to its visitors. The best restaurants serving comfort food are located in the vicinity of Umag. Umag itself is somehow less attractive than other coastal towns in Istria.
  • Novigrad is a small fishing village half way between Umag and Porec. Novigrad is famous for its seafood restaurants. This small place features some of the best seafood restaurants in Istria.
  • Porec is the most popular tourist hotspot in Istria. Porec basilica is listed as UNESCO’s World Heritage Site . The old town is a showcase of Venetian architecture. Visitors can enjoy numerous bars and restaurants at seaside promenade.
  • Vrsar is located between Porec and Rovinj. Its charming old town is perched on the hill overlooking the archipelago of 18 islets.
  • Rovinj is the nicest of all towns in Istria. Located at the peninsula, its colorful houses are rising out of the sea. The old town is full of lively bars and art galleries.
  • Pula is the biggest town in Istria. Although, Pula is industrial, it has some of the best beaches in Istria. The most popular attraction in Pula is roman amphitheater.
  • Rabac is a small tourist resort on the east coast of Istria. Rabac has beautiful pebble beaches.
  • Motovun is the most popular town in inland Istria. It is located on the hilltop overlooking Mirna river and valley.

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Istria Itinerary – Most Beautiful Places to Visit on Croatia’s Istrian Peninsula

A village on a hill surrounded by vineyards

Top Places to Visit in Istria - Itinerary and Travel Guide to Discover the Charms of the Istrian Peninsula

Are you ready to fall in love with the Istrian Peninsula, Croatia? Our Istria itinerary highlights the most charming places to visit in Istria, from medieval towns and breath-taking scenery to ancient ruins and the beautiful coast of the Adriatic Sea. If you are wondering what to see and which places to visit on the Istrian Peninsula, continue reading and start planning your ultimate Istrian Peninsula road trip.

The heart-shaped Istrian peninsula is one of the most charming places in Croatia, and the fact it has successfully stayed under the radar of mass tourism for such a long time is an added bonus. However, things are changing quickly and in recent years, more and more tourists have been visiting Istria, Croatia. So our advice is to start planning your Istria itinerary ASAP if you want a chance to explore the highlights of the Istrian peninsula before it loses its charm.

This post may contain affiliate links, which means we earn a small commission if you purchase from them (no extra costs to you!). For details check our disclaimer .

Table of Contents

Where is the istrian peninsula located.

The Istrian peninsula is the largest peninsula in Croatia. It is located in the westernmost part of Croatia at the head of the Adriatic between the Gulf of Trieste and Kvarner Bay. The peninsula is shared by Croatia, Italy and Slovenia, though the most substantial part belongs to Croatia. When talking about the Istrian peninsula we can talk about blue Istria (along the coast) and green Istria (inland).

Green and Blue Istria Highlights

So why should you visit the Istrian peninsula when there are so many other charming places all over Croatia? The answer is simple enough; the Istrian peninsula is different from any other county in Croatia. We fell in love with the beautiful scenery, stunning medieval towns and fishing villages, food scene and the unique atmosphere. When talking about Istria, imagine there are actually two different parts you can explore. Along the coast, you’ll find blue Istria with its charming coastal towns and marinas, colorful Venetian houses, seafood restaurants, stunning beaches and luxurious hotels. The inner areas of the Istrian peninsula are referred to as Green Istria. When traveling around these parts of the peninsula, you’ll see vineyards and olive groves, photogenic medieval towns perched on cliffs, agricultural landscape and a general rustic and homey vibe which means less posh accommodation choices.

There are a couple of cities in Istria and a few small towns, but you’ll mostly find villages in Istria, the majority of which are located in Green Istria. According to the Croatian census, there are over 500 villages in Istria. An average Istrian village has a community of about 100 people. Some might have over 300 inhabitants, but there are also villages which are populated by only a dozen of people and some are completely deserted. So what are some the highlights of the Istrian peninsula in our opinion?

  • Some of the most stunning towns in Croatia are located on the Istrian peninsula: Rovinj , Poreč and Motovun, to name a few.
  • Breathtaking scenery of rolling hills, olive groves, vineyards and the hues of blue, green and turquoise of the Adriatic Sea.
  • A foodie scene with an emphasis on truffles, wine, olive oil and seafood.
  • Old traditional charm combined with a unique mixture of Italian-Croatian atmosphere.
  • Beautiful rocky and pebble beaches where you can enjoy the Adriatic Sea without the crowds
  • A unique focus on hiking and cycling trails so you can plan an active vacation combined with wine tasting.

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Top Places to Visit on the Istrian Peninsula for Your Istria Itinerary

Colorful Rovinj in Istrian Peninsula

Days 1-3 Blue Istria Road Trip

Day 1 – rovinj - the most charming town on the istrian peninsula.

Rovinj is our favorite town in Istria. Once you visit it, you’ll understand why we recommend staying here for your first few nights. From the moment we started exploring Rovinj’s old town, we couldn’t have enough of the colorful houses and Mediterranean atmosphere. Rovinj’s old town used to be an island so while you are strolling through the narrow cobbled streets, try and find these bottom porches that will reward you with beautiful views of the Adriatic Sea. There are hidden gems behind every corner, cool cafes, unique boutiques, colorful houses with photogenic laundry lines and many more such treasures are waiting to be found.

Things to See in Rovinj

  • Getting lost in Rovinj’s old town (if you want to learn more about the history of Rovinj, check out this walking guided tour .
  • Visiting St. Euphemia Church and its Bell Tower
  • Looking for Balbi’s Arch and Rovinj Town Clock
  • Wandering around Rovinj Harbor
  • Looking for the famous Rovinj viewpoints
  • Watching the sunset from one of the sea-front coffee shops and bars
  • Exploring Rovinj Archipelago

Where to Stay in Rovinj

We stayed at Residence Rovinj , a cute hotel with its own parking lot that was within walking distance to the old town. If you have a car, make sure your hotel has a parking lot. We loved the intimate and friendly atmosphere, the large rooms and good breakfast. It’s a good choice for mid-range accommodation. 

If you’d like to stay at the heart of the old town, Hotel Adriatic is an excellent choice. This luxurious boutique hotel provides beautiful views and is situated at the heart of Rovinj’s old town. You’ll also find one of the best restaurants in town inside the hotel. 

For a more budget-friendly choice, try the cozy but stylish The Melegran that also has a very central location and excellent reviews. 

For all hotels and apartments in Rovinj, check prices here

Check out our Rovinj Guide for more attractions, helpful tips and places to stay in Rovinj

pula arch

Day 2 – Pula and Cape Kamenjak

Pula – best place to see ancient roman ruins in istria.

On day 2 of your itinerary, it’s time to discover the southern part of the Istrian peninsula. Within a relatively short car ride from Rovinj, you’ll find Pula, the largest city on the Istrian peninsula where you’ll also find an international airport. Pula has some of the best ancient Roman ruins in the area and some charming alleys of its own.

What to See in Pula

  • Visit Pula Arena – one of the most well-preserved Roman amphitheaters in the world
  • Check out the Roman Forum
  • Walk under the Arch of Sergii
  • Enjoy the View from Fort Kaštel
  • Stop by the House of Istrian Olive Oil
  • Take a paddle-board tour or go kayaking and snorkeling around the sea caves along Pula coast with any of these recommended tours .

Where to Stay in Pula

Cape kamenjak – for rugged beaches and seascapes photography, things to do on cape kamenjak.

The Kamenjak Peninsula or Peninsula of Premantura is located at the southernmost point of Istria. It’s a protected reserve with a beautiful rugged coastline, stunning beaches and coves, and hiking and cycling trails . Other than gorgeous beaches, the Premantura Peninsula is home to more than 500 plant species, including 20 orchid species. It is located only a short drive away from Pula. You can also go cliff jumping or kayaking in the area.  

Day 3 – A Road Trip along the Coast of the Istrian Peninsula to Lim Fjord, Poreč and Novigrad

The third day on your itinerary is dedicated to a road trip along the northern part of the Adriatic coast along the Istrian peninsula. This area of Istria is dotted with beautiful fishing towns, stunning beaches and some breathtaking views, such as the stunning Lim Bay.

Lim Fjord – Best Place to Visit in Istria for Fresh Oysters and Stunning Views

Things to do in lim fjord.

  • Take a boat ride to explore the bay
  • Eat fresh oysters and mussels
  • Rest at the tiny beach
  • Admire the views and beautiful scenery

Poreč – Beautiful Historic Center and the Euphrasian Basilica

If for some reason, you’d rather stay at a different town than Rovinj, Poreč is probably one of the best places to stay along the coast of the Istrian Peninsula. It offers just the right mixture of historical monuments, charming cobbled streets, lovely beaches and foodie and night scenes.

Things to See and Do in Poreč

  • Visit the Euphrasian Basilica – A UNESCO World Heritage Site
  • Wander around the Historic Center of Poreč
  • Walk along the two main streets, Decumanus and Cardo Maximus
  • Stop by the main square – Marafor
  • Check out the Round Tower where you’ll find Torre Rotonda Caffé Bar
  • Visit Poreč Heritage Museum

Where to Stay in Poreč

If you’re looking for a central location, Valamar Riviera Hotel & Residence is a great choice. With its modern design, rich breakfast and private beach on the nearby Sveti Nikola island (free shuttle boat), it offers some great deals on rooms throughout the year. You can check other accommodation choices here .

A girl drawing on a staircase with flowers around her

Novigrad – For a Mixture of Excellent Food, Beaches and History

Novigrad is located just north of Poreč, and it has been gaining a name for itself as a foodie town. Other than excellent restaurants, you’ll find here lovely beaches and a charming historic center.

Things to See and Do in Novigrad

  • Visit the charming old town
  • Look for the local churches and bell towers
  • Visit the Maritime Museum
  • Explore the beaches and visit the water sports center
  • Visit some of the best restaurants on the Istrian peninsula

Where to Stay in Novigrad

Check out the smart Boutique Hotel Rivalmare which is beautifully designed and is situated just near the old town and the beach. You can check other options for hotels and apartments in Novigrad here .

For detailed guides for some of the top places to visit in Istria, check out our Rovinj Day Trips Guide

Days 4-6 Green Istria Road Trip

After spending a couple of nights in Rovinj, it was time for us to start our journey to discover the charms of the inner parts of the Istrian peninsula. We spent the next couple of nights in Oprtalj, a small town with breathtaking views that is located very close to Motovun.

Day 4-5 - Oprtalj, Motovun, Grožnjan and Buje

Oprtalj – for stunning views and medieval charm.

Oprtalj (or Portole in Italian) is one of the most picturesque towns in Green Istria. To be honest, there is not too much to do in this tiny town, but we chose it as our place of accommodation thanks to its stunning views of the Mirna Valley and proximity to Motovun. We didn’t know what to expect, but strolling along the tiny old town of Opetalj, we felt we’d discovered a hidden gem. It’s a place where time stood still. Photogenic crumbling walls decorating narrow cobbled alleys that lead to ancient houses and beautiful archways, an old bell tower, and the occasional flowers and  green vines dotting this historic town.

Things to See in Oprtalj

  • Admire the unbelievable view from Venetian Loggia
  • Check out the old main gates of the old town
  • Wander along the cobbled alleys of the old town
  • Have a snack or a glass of wine with the most amazing view

Where to Stay in Oprtalj

We stayed at the charming B&B Palazzo Angelica (for adults only). We didn’t stay at the main house, but we had a lovely apartment inside the old town. The only downfall was we had to carry our suitcases on the uneven cobbled alley (uphill) and then climb a few flights of stairs. However, the friendly staff will gladly help you. We loved our stay here but be warned, Oprtalj is very low key and you only have two restaurants to choose from. If you are looking for a bit of a more lively atmosphere, Motovun or Grožnjan are going to suit you more.

Yellow colored wall, cobbled street and green glass bottles

Motovun – One of the Most Famous Towns on the Istrian Peninsula

You can’t visit green Istria without stopping at Motovun. Motovun is perched on a 270-meter hill and surrounded by vineyards and olive groves. The sight of Motovun and the surrounding area in the early hours of the morning covered gently in a veil of fog, is magical. If you stay in the area (and you should), try and catch a glimpse of it with your camera. Nevertheless, if you can’t bother to catch the sunrise or you choose to visit Motovun on a day trip from the coast, don’t worry, it’s stunning every hour of the day.

Things to See in Motovun

  • Take a picture from the road of the landscape with the beautiful Motovun perched on the hill
  • Wander around Motovun’s cobbled alleys
  • See the historical monuments of the ancient city of Kastelijer with its defensive walls, fortifications and gates
  • Admire the mixture of Gothic, Romanesque and Renaissance architecture
  • Visit the Parish Church of St. Stephen with its bell tower
  • Buy some local souvenirs
  • Admire the view with a glass of wine

Where to Stay in Motovun

If you want to stay in a hotel at the heart of Motovun, check out Hotel Kastel (will be reopened in March/April 2020). Other than that there are several apartments and B&B you can check here .  If it’s luxury you are looking for, then Wine & Heritage hotel ROXANICH is a boutique hotel located very close to Motovun which also has its own gourmet restaurant and a wellness center. 

Yellow church and bell tower

Grožnjan – Village of Artists

Grožnjan is located very close to Motovun and Oprtalj. It is another beautiful Istrian village which is known as the village of artists. One of the highlights of strolling around this charming village was to see all of these unique and beautiful medieval houses adorned by artistic displays.

What to See in Grožnjan

  • Stroll around the picturesque streets
  • Look for unique souvenirs
  • Visit the Fonticus Gallery
  • Look for the Church of St Vitus, Modest, & Crescentiu
  • Have the best cappuccino with a platter of cheese accompanied by a stunning view

Where to Stay in Grožnjan

In Grožnjan you’ll find only small apartments. You can check the prices here .

An art gallery

Buje - History, Views and Local Delecacies

We only had one day to explore the central and northern part of the Istrian Peninsula, which means we didn’t get to see everything we wanted (and we stopped for some wine tasting as well). Buje was on our list for several reasons and we were sorry we’d missed it. Initially, we thought about spending a couple of nights here but decided to spend our nights in green Istria at Oprtalj. Buje has plenty to offer so if you do have the time, try and include it in your Istria itinerary.

What to See in Buje

  • Visit St. Servulus church and its bell tower for some magnificent view of the area
  • See the Tower of St Martin which was part of the Venetian walls that surrounded Buje
  • See the collections at the Ethnographic museum, which showcases local handicrafts and highlights the culture of the area
  • Roam the alleys of the historic center and look for local delicacies
  • If you’re looking for an extraordinary experience, visit the beer spa at San Servolo Resort & Beer Spa

Where to Stay in Buje

We were planning on staying at San Servolo Resort & Beer Spa , which has beautiful views, modern and funky design and a beer spa. Check the prices for other accommodation choices in Buje here

A rocky beach in Istria Croatia

Day 6 – Duga Uvula, Rabac and Labin

Duga uvula or rabac – for beaches and seascape photography.

There are plenty of beaches all around Istria and even from the center of Istria it should take no more than 45 minutes to get to one of the beaches. We wanted to have a relaxed day and mainly do some photography, and we’ve heard Duga Uvula is a beautiful place. Duga Uvula is a beautiful cove with stunning crystal-clear water and a friendly vibe. When you follow the path, there are many options to take one of the stairs that lead straight to the sea. The beach is not very kid-friendly, at least the parts we visited. There was a very simple bar with some drinks and snacks ( Punta Beach Bar ) where we visited. For us, it was the perfect spot because we were looking for a private location.

However, if you are looking for a lively atmosphere and more options in terms of attractions and restaurants, check out the small resort town of Rabac. It is much more touristy and suited for families, there are more restaurants and a few beaches to choose from. There is also a lovely promenade. Note that it is a trendy place to visit in the summer so it can get crowded.

Labin – History, Views and Art

We’ve heard about Labin only on our last day in Istria and so it was too late to visit it. Since it is located very close to Duga Uvula and Rabac, you should stop there if you have a chance. Labin is another medieval hilltop town which used to be the largest mining center in Croatia. Nowadays, you can find here a few galleries, charming alleys, historical sites and gorgeous views of the Adriatic Sea.

What to See in Labin

  • See the Little Theatre or Il Teatrino at Labin old town
  • Check out Porta Sanfior, the old town gate
  • Visit the Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary’s Birth
  • Admire some of the Baroque palaces and buildings such as the Battiala-Lazzarini Palace
  • Stop by the art galleries or Labin’s city museum
  • Admire the view from Fortica Viewpoint

Where to Stay in Labin and Rabac

You’ll find many resorts and apartments around Rabac for different budgets. Check their prices here . In Labin, you’ll find only two hotels. Hotel Peteani offers stylish rooms, great breakfast and free bikes and has great prices for solo travelers. The second hotel, La Loggia Diffused Hotel , is another great choices for visitors who are looking for modern and stylish design and a budget friendly price tag. For more accommodation choices in Labin, check your options  here .

Plan the Perfect Itinerary for your Istrian Peninsula Road Trip

Our best advice is to do your research on the various attractions of the Istrian peninsula, and then calculate how many days you would need (or have) to explore the peninsula, choose two or three places of accommodation in Blue and Green Istria, and you’re good to go.

Where to Stay on the Istrian Peninsula

We only had four nights in Istria, and it wasn’t enough to see everything we wanted to see. Therefore, in our opinion, you should plan your Istria itinerary to include at least 4-5 nights. Our preferred town on the Western Coast is Rovinj (we’ve discussed accommodation options under our Rovinj section). In the center of the Istrian peninsula, we chose to stay at Oprtalj, but Motovun might be better if you are looking for a livelier atmosphere. Finally, if you are a beach person, we suggest staying another night along the coast, which means another day in Rovinj or somewhere near Labin.

Truffle pasta

Our Ultimate Itinerary to Explore the Best Places to Visit on the Istrian Peninsula

So if you’ve followed our Istria road trip, you might have noticed that we’ve recommended some places we haven’t visited ourselves due to a lack of time or knowledge. So the following itinerary is the one we would have followed if we’d had enough time.

Day 1: Arriving in Rovinj and exploring the old town and nearby parks Day 2: A day trip to Pula and Cape Kamenjak Day 3: A day trip to Lim Fjord, Poreč and Novigrad Day 4: Oprtalj, Motovun and Grožnjan Day 5: Buje and experiencing wine tasting, olive oil tasting or truffle hunting Day 6: Labin and Rabac or Duga Uvula

Things to See on the Istrian Peninsula If You Have More Time

  • Visit some of the local Istrian towns we’ve missed such as Buzet, Bale, Hum or Pazin.
  • Follow the wine roads of Red Istria and Grey Istria (these names are based on the color of the soil)
  • Follow the olive oil trails of the Istrian Peninsula
  • Go truffle hunting around Mirna Valley. To learn more about such foodie experiences in Istria, check out our Istria Gourmet Foodie Guide
  • Explore the islands along the West coast (Rovinj Archipelago, Vrsar Archipelago or Sv. Nikola island)
  • Visit the famous Birjuni Islands National park
  • Go on a cycling tour or hike along the old Parenzana railway. The old Parenzana train connected the ports of Poreč and Trieste with villages and towns of the Istrian peninsula. It operated between 1902 and 1935. Nowadays, after a restoration process, there are cycling tours and hiking tours along the old route. Other than that, there are many more cycling routes all over the Istrian Peninsula. 
  • Go on a day trip to Piran on the Slovenian part of the Istrian Peninsula. Another picturesque town with beautiful architecture and historic sites.

How to Get to the Istrian Peninsula, Croatia

By Plane – There is one international airport in Istria, Pula Airport . It’s a small airport, but during the season, there are flights from several European destinations such as London, Berlin, Amsterdam and other locations. Thanks to the increasing popularity of Istria, more and more flights are added every month. Otherwise, you can fly to one of the nearby international airports in Croatia, such as Rijeka or Zagreb, Trieste in Italy or Ljubljana in Slovenia and drive/arrange for transportation from there.

By Bus – There are buses from many cities in Croatia and nearby European destinations to the main towns along the coast of Istria such as Pula and Rovinj. You can catch a bus from Trieste, Ljubljana, Munich, Sarajevo, Zurich and many more cities. Check some of the options here .

By Boat – During the season, you can reach Rovinj by ferry. There are four companies operating ferries to and from Rovinj . In the high season, there are 1-5 journeys per day, but in the low season, there are no ferries at all. There is also a ferry from Zadar to Pula .

By Car – If you are planning on exploring the Istrian Peninsula, we suggest renting a car. You can either rent a car after landing in Pula Airport or from Zagreb or the Dalmatian Coast.

A bottle of red wine in a winery

Getting Around the Istrian Peninsula

Your best choice is to rent a car. If you only plan to visit the towns along the western coast of the Istria Peninsula, you will find some public transportation from the main towns (Pula, Rovinj or Poreč), but if you want to explore Green Istria, it might be hard if not almost impossible by public transit. You can check some of the bus routes in Istria here .

If you don’t want to rent a car, you can hire a private driver or a taxi to show you some of the highlights of the Istrian Peninsula. Another more budget-friendly way is to go on an organized tour to see the best places to visit in Istria. 

Distances between Our Recommended Places to Visit on the Istrian Peninsula

To give you a clue regarding your day trips, we wrote down for you the distances between our recommended destinations along the coast and inside the Istrian peninsula.

From Rovinj: To Pula: 40 km. (about 45 minutes) To Cape Kamenjak: 55 km. (about 55 minutes) To Lim Bay: 16 km (about 20 minutes) To Poreč: 40 km. (about 45 minutes) To Novigrad: 55 km. (about 55 minutes) To Motovun: 50 km. (about 55 minutes)

From Motovun: To Oprtalj: 11 km. (about 20 minutes, it’s not a mistake, the road is very curvy) To Grožnjan: 18 km. (about 23 minutes) To Buje: 22 km. (about 25 minutes) To Labin/Rabac/ Duga Uvula: 50-70 km. (about 70 minutes)

When to Visit the Istrian Peninsula, Croatia

You can visit the Istrian Peninsula all year long. Nevertheless, the best time of the year is usually June – September. In July and August, the temperatures can reach 30°C, and there are more tourists in the area, but it’s not too bad compared to other regions of Croatia and it’s the best time to enjoy the beaches. April and May are also great if you don’t mind the cooler temperatures (just be aware that some of the restaurants and smaller hotels might be closed, especially during April). Fall is the best time to visit Istria if you want to watch the harvest of olives and grapes and go truffle hunting. Have a look at the average temperature and rainfall in Istria by month .

Final Tips to Help you Plan the perfect Istria Road Trip Itinerary

  • Try to arrive early to the main tourist attractions since you can’t get into the old city with your car, and you’ll have to find a parking lot (some of which can get crowded later in the day).
  • Don’t forget to ask for a GPS in your car or use a GPS app on your phone. We recommend downloading an Istria Map from Google Maps before your trip since at some places, you will have a bad signal. At least you’ll have a map of the area on your mobile.
  • You can use the Croatian Automobile Club’s app, Hak Traffic , to check for any traffic, closed roads, etc.
  • The roads in Istria are pretty narrow, can be curvy, and some of them are basically dirt roads. Therefore, check the ETA on your app and consider your gasoline consumption. Many times we arrived at our destination later than anticipated.
  • Relax and enjoy your time – part of the reason we didn’t get to check off all the attractions on our bucket list was simply since we wanted to enjoy the moment. So instead of rushing from place to place, choose the top sites you’d like to visit in advance and leave room for improvisation.

Where to Go Next

We continued our Istrian road trip and followed the scenic road to Plitvice Lakes till we arrived to  Zagreb , our final destination on our Croatian road trip. If you started your journey in Istria, we also recommend continuing your road trip to the Dalmatian Coast.

Helpful Information and Travel Tips for your Croatia Itinerary

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  • Zagreb’s Self Guided Walking Tour
  • Things to Do in Rovinj, Istria
  • Best Day Trips from Rovinj to the South, East and North of Istria
  • Olive Oil Tasting in Istria

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16 thoughts on “Istria Itinerary – Most Beautiful Places to Visit on Croatia’s Istrian Peninsula”

I’d not heard of the Istrian peninsula prior to reading your post, it sounds absolutely dreamy 🙂

Istria is a dreamy place! unbelievable views, great food and the people are so welcoming!

This sounds like an absolutely dream trip! I love how charming Rovinj is, the perfect place to explore. I’m now going to have to add this to my list of places I want to visit this year – thanks for sharing 🙂

Thanks Gemma! you’d love Istria! As you said Rovinj is absolutely stunning and the whole area is a true hidden gem!

Perfect timing, I am currently planning a trip there and just mapping out my itinerary and definitely some of these places are on my list. I have pinned for my future reference. Wonderful post!

Thanks so much! So glad we could have helped. You’ll love the Istrian peninsula and make sure to eat some truffles and drink some wine for us too 😉

We LOVED Istria and hope to go back. We only had three days so a longer trip sounds so lovely. Saving this for future reference. Love you itinerary and suggestions.

We know what you mean Laureen, we had 4 nights and it wasn’t enough to see everything. The best would be to stay for a week and then you could really slow down and enjoy the scenery.

Ahhh Istria is on my bucket list! Hoping to visit this year and I’ll definitely be referencing this post!

Hope you make it to the Istrian peninsula in 2020, you’d love it!

Wow I didn’t even know Istria existed but you make me want to visit this place so badly now!

Yes, we’ve only heard about and we were looking for hidden gems in Croatia and the Istrian peninsula tick all the boxes! It’s truly a magical place!

What a lovely post! We will make it to Croatia someday, and this post will be an excellent guide for us. Thank you for all the useful information.

Thanks so much, Susan. Croatia is wonderful, we’re sure you’d love it!

I’m so happy I found your website! This is exactly what I need for my upcoming trip!

Great! We really try to provide a lot of helpful information mixed with some inspiration, of course 🙂 have fun in Istria!

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4 days in istria itinerary (croatia) best activities guide.

Last Updated on May 21, 2023 by gregor

In this blog post, I’ll cover the perfect Istria itinerary to ensure you make the most of your short trip to the beautiful peninsula in Croatia.

Are you looking for a beautiful travel destination for your next vacation? Look no further than Istria, a stunning region located in Croatia. Istria is known for its beautiful beaches, historic architecture, and delicious cuisine. With only four days to explore Istria, having a well-planned itinerary is crucial.

All about Blue Istria and Green Istria – Visit Croatia

The terms “Blue Istria” and “Green Istria” are used to refer to two different regions in Istria, a peninsula in the Adriatic Sea that is shared by Croatia, Slovenia , and Italy .

Blue Istria, also known as Coastal Istria, is the western coastal area of Istria, which includes popular tourist destinations such as Pula, Rovinj, and Poreč. The name “Blue Istria” comes from the deep blue color of the Adriatic Sea that borders this region. It is characterized by its rugged coastline, crystal-clear waters, and numerous islands, coves, and beaches. Blue Istria is known for its rich cultural heritage, which includes ancient Roman ruins, medieval hilltop towns, and Venetian-style architecture.

Green Istria, on the other hand, is the central and eastern inland area of Istria, characterized by rolling hills, forests, vineyards, and olive groves. The name “Green Istria” comes from the lush greenery that covers much of this region. Green Istria is known for its picturesque hilltop towns, such as Motovun and Grožnjan, which are famous for their medieval architecture, narrow streets, and stunning views of the surrounding countryside. The region is also known for its gastronomy, which includes truffles, olive oil, and wines.

Map of Istria Croatia

Istria is easy to navigate, and the roads are good. You can get around by bus, although it isn’t super easy, so I recommend  renting a car   🚘 as it’s much easier and also quite cheap. It takes about 1 hour to drive from Novigrad in the north to  Pula  in the south.

Plan your Trip to Istria in Croatia?

  • 🏨 Find the perfect accommodation on  Booking.com
  • 🎡 Book the Best Guided Tour on  GetYourGuide
  • 😍 Get more emotions from your trip with  Tripadvisor
  • 🚘 Rent a car on  Rentalcars
  • ✈️ Buy the cheapest flight tickets with  WayAway
  • 🚂 🚌 ✈️ Best prices for Train, Buses, Cars, Ferries, and flights Omio

4 days in Istria itinerary – Best Travel Guide and Tips for the Istrian Peninsula

Day 1: exploring pula.

Pula is a great place to start your Istria adventure. This city is known for its beautiful Roman architecture, and the most iconic of these is the Arena. The Arena is a well-preserved Roman amphitheater that is over 2,000 years old. You can take a guided tour of the Arena, or you can explore it on your own.

Another must-see attraction in Pula is the Temple of Augustus. This temple was built during the Roman Empire and is dedicated to Augustus, the first Roman emperor. The temple is incredibly well-preserved, and it’s an excellent example of Roman architecture.

After exploring the Arena and the Temple of Augustus, you should head over to the Arch of Sergii. This arch was built in the first century BCE and is dedicated to the Sergii family. It’s a great spot to take some photos and learn more about the history of Pula.

You can find more information and  Book your Pula Arena Entry Ticket  here

Day 2: Exploring the Old Town of Rovinj

Rovinj is a picturesque coastal town that should definitely be on your itinerary. The town is known for its colorful buildings and winding streets. The most iconic attraction in Rovinj is St. Euphemia’s Basilica. This beautiful church is located at the top of a hill and offers stunning views of the town and the Adriatic Sea.

After visiting St. Euphemia’s Basilica, take a stroll down Grisia Street. This street is full of colorful buildings and local artists selling their work. You’ll find everything from paintings to handmade pottery.

Another must-see attraction in Rovinj is Balbi’s Arch. This arch is located at the entrance to the old town and dates back to the 17th century. It’s a great spot to take some photos and learn more about the history of Rovinj.

I always use GetYourGuide to book activities and attractions while traveling through Europe. You can search through over 25 Rovinj attractions on their website here 👇

Day 3: Exploring Motovun and Groznjan

Motovun and Groznjan are two beautiful hilltop towns that should definitely be on your itinerary. Motovun is known for its stunning views of the surrounding countryside, while Groznjan is known for its vibrant art scene.

When you arrive in Motovun , the first thing you should do is explore the town walls. These walls date back to the 14th century and offer incredible views of the surrounding countryside.

Top Tip: Truffles and Truffle Hunting Tour

After exploring the town walls, head over to the Motovun Forest. This forest is known for its truffles, and you can take a guided tour to learn more about truffle hunting .

When you’re ready to eat, head over to Konoba Mondo . This restaurant is located in the heart of Motovun and serves up delicious traditional Croatian cuisine.

After lunch, head over to Groznjan . This town is known for its vibrant art scene, and you’ll find galleries and studios throughout the town. Take some time to explore the galleries and see the work of local artists. You’ll also find some great views of the surrounding countryside from the town’s hilltop location.

Day 4: Exploring the Istrian Coast Poreč + Lim Fjord + Brijuni Islands Beach

On your final day in Istria, it’s time to explore the coast. Start your day in the town of Poreč , which is known for its beautiful beaches and historic architecture. The most iconic attraction in Poreč is the Euphrasian Basilica. This stunning basilica was built in the 6th century and is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

After exploring the Euphrasian Basilica, take a stroll down Decumanus Street. This street is lined with shops and cafes, and it’s a great place to do some souvenir shopping.

Next, head over to Novigrad. This town is known for its beautiful beaches and charming old town. Take some time to explore the town’s narrow streets and enjoy the relaxed atmosphere.

When it’s time to eat, head over to Damir & Ornella. This restaurant is located in the heart of Novigrad and serves up delicious seafood dishes.

After lunch, head over to the Lim Fjord. This stunning fjord is a great spot to take some photos and enjoy the beautiful scenery. You can also take a boat tour of the fjord if you have some extra time.

In the evening, head back to Pula to catch a sunset at Verudela Beach. This beautiful beach offers stunning views of the Adriatic Sea, and it’s a great spot to relax and reflect on your four days in Istria.

I always use GetYourGuide to book activities and attractions while traveling through Europe. You can search through over  10  Lim Fjord attractions & activities on their website here 👇

Best Things to Do in Istria

Please read my related blog post:

20 BEST THINGS TO DO IN ISTRIA, CROATIA 2023 – TOP ATTRACTIONS

Tips for planning your 4 days in Istria travel

Planning a trip to Istria can be an exciting experience, but it can also be overwhelming. To make the most out of your 4 days in Istria, here are some tips to keep in mind:

  • Decide on your travel dates: The best time to visit Istria is during the summer months, between June and August when the weather is warm and sunny. However, keep in mind that this is also the busiest time of the year, so be sure to book your accommodation in advance.
  • Choose your accommodation wisely: Istria has many accommodation options, from luxury hotels to budget-friendly hostels. Choose a location that is central to the attractions you plan to visit, and that fits within your budget. 🏨 Find the perfect accommodation on  Booking.com
  • Plan your itinerary ahead of time: With only four days in Istria, it’s important to plan your itinerary ahead of time to make the most out of your trip. Consider which attractions and activities you want to prioritize, and plan your days accordingly.
  • Rent a car: To truly explore all that Istria has to offer, it’s recommended that you rent a car. This will give you the freedom to travel at your own pace and visit off-the-beaten-path destinations. 🚘 Rent a car on  Rentalcars
  • Pack appropriately: Istria can get hot and sunny during the summer months, so be sure to pack light and breathable clothing. Don’t forget to bring sunscreen, a hat, and comfortable walking shoes.
  • Try the local cuisine: Istria is known for its delicious cuisine, which includes fresh seafood, truffles, and Istrian ham. Be sure to try some of the local dishes during your visit.
  • Be respectful of local customs: Istria is a welcoming and friendly region, but it’s important to be respectful of local customs and traditions. Learn a few basic Croatian phrases, and be aware of cultural differences.

By following these tips, you’ll be able to plan the perfect four-day itinerary in Istria and make the most out of your trip to this beautiful region.

Best Tours to book during the 4 days in Istria, based on GetYourGuide Website

There are many tours available to book in Istria on GetYourGuide , but here are some of the best ones to consider during your 4 days in Istria:

  • Istria Hilltop Towns Tour: This tour takes you to the charming hilltop towns of Grožnjan, Oprtalj, and Motovun. You’ll explore their narrow streets and enjoy panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. You’ll also have the opportunity to taste local wines and olive oils.
  • Istrian Food and Wine Tour: This tour takes you to some of Istria’s best wineries and olive groves. You’ll learn about the production process and taste some of the region’s best wines and olive oils. You’ll also enjoy a delicious lunch at a local restaurant.
  • Pula Roman Heritage Walking Tour: This tour takes you on a journey through Pula’s rich history, from its Roman past to its modern-day culture. You’ll visit iconic landmarks such as the Amphitheatre, the Arch of Sergii, and the Temple of Augustus.
  • Brijuni National Park Boat Tour: This tour takes you on a boat ride to Brijuni National Park, a beautiful archipelago off the coast of Istria. You’ll explore the park’s lush vegetation and enjoy stunning views of the Adriatic Sea. You’ll also visit the park’s safari park and archaeological museum.
  • Istrian Truffle Hunting Tour: This tour takes you on a truffle-hunting adventure in the Istrian countryside. You’ll learn about the history of truffle hunting and watch trained dogs search for these precious fungi. You’ll also taste truffle products and enjoy a traditional Istrian meal.

By booking one or more of these tours, you’ll be able to experience the best of Istria’s culture, history, and natural beauty. Make sure to book in advance to secure your spot, and enjoy your 4 days in Istria to the fullest.

I always use GetYourGuide to book activities and attractions while traveling through Europe. You can search through over 100 Istria attractions on their website here 👇

Istria is a beautiful region that offers something for everyone. Whether you’re interested in history, art, or simply relaxing on the beach, Istria has it all. With this four-day itinerary, you can explore some of the region’s most iconic attractions and enjoy its delicious cuisine. So pack your bags and get ready for an unforgettable adventure in Istria.

✅ Don’t forget to book insurance for the trip. It is easy to do online via Visitors Coverage .

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Istria is one of Croatia's most enchanting regions ready to delight everyone from beach bums to history buffs, foodies to cyclists, winelovers to rock climbers. The long, indented coastline is dotted with beaches , a drowned valley , and fascinating coastal towns such as Rovinj , Pula and Porec . From there it's easy to explore the hill villages of Motovun , Groznjan, Buzet , Bale and Buje deep in Istria's rolling interior. (Work it out on this suggested Best of Istria itinerary).

But Istria is more than just sightseeing. The easygoing Istrian lifestyle is defined by fine restaurants and a culture heavily influenced by neighboring Italy with whom Istrian history is deeply intertwined.

Bale

Top Istria Highlights

Rovinj

The hilly old town of Rovinj charms the eye. Once part of the Venetian empire, reminders of La Serenissima abound. Climb up to St Euphemia church, cycle through Zlatni Rat park, dip into the sea in Red Island, sample the restaurants, bars, shops and art galleries.

Roman Amphitheatre

Pula's Roman Amphitheatre

The 2000-year old Roman amphitheatre in Pula vividly evokes the days of gladiators and circuses. It is one of the six largest Roman amphitheatres in the world and the only one to have four side towers and all three levels preserved. Continue the Roman experience by visiting other Roman monuments in Pula .

Euphrasian Basilica

Euphrasian Basilica, Porec

The glittering 6th-century mosaics in Porec's Euphrasian basilica have made it a Unesco World Heritage Sight. After marvelling at the fine Byzantine art, visit the town of Porec which is dotted with more reminders of the Roman and Venetian era.

Brijuni Islands National Park

Brijuni Islands National Park

The Brijuni Islands National Park once hosted Tito and his illustrious friends but has been inhabited since antiquity. Carpeted with ancient pines and olive trees and surrounded by a sparkling sea, the island is extraordinarily beautiful. An organised tour is mandatory.

Hill Villages

Motovun

To experience authentic Istrian life and enjoy heady views over the region, head for the hills. The top hill villages are: Motovun , known for its Venetian architecture; Groznjan , now an art colony; and Buzet , capital of truffles. With a car, all three can be visited in a day.

[But there's so much more! Check out the best places to visit in Istria and organise you stay with recommended Istria itineraries .]

Bordered on the north by Slovenia and to the east by the Kvarner Gulf, Istria covers 3160 sq kilometres edged by 430km of coastline. The northern part of the Istrian peninsula covers the Slovenian resorts of Piran, Portoroz and Koper. The eastern resorts of Opatija and Lovran are considered part of the Kvarner Gulf even though they are technically part of the Istrian peninsula.

About one third of the Istrian territory is forested and the rest is carpeted with vineyards, olive trees, pastures and orchards . The rolling hills are topped with walled hill villages (such as Motovun, Buzet and Groznjan ) that offer sweeping views of the countryside. No wonder travel writers can't decide whether Istria is the "new Tuscany" or the "new Provence"!

It's not just the mild, sunny climate and easy-going way of life that invites comparison to the best Mediterranean destinations, it's also the devotion to fine eating that bewitches visitors. Istrian cuisine offers some of the best dining in Croatia, especially for fish, smoked meat and truffles. Istria's long culinary tradition is heavily influenced by Italy which is one reason why Italians flock to Istria for their summer holidays. Read more about Istrian cuisine and check out Istria's best restaurants.

When to Go to Istria

Istria has a Mediterranean climate which means warm, sunny summers, a mild spring and autumn and chilly, rainy winters. Check out the temperature and precipitation chart below.

Naturally Istrian accommodation is most expensive on the coast but quite reasonable inland. The best hotels in Istria include several amazing spa-resorts in Rovinj, Umag and Savudrija but Pula does nicely for itself with excellent four-star resorts on the Verudela peninsula. The Istrian countryside offers everything from boutique hotels to charming inns, villas and guesthouses.

Getting to Istria

There are easy passenger ferry connections from Venice to Pula, Rovinj, Porec and Umag that run from around April to October. It's fast and comfortable.

Pula is a major gateway for international flights. Car and passenger ferries heading south to Dalmatia are spotty however. Check Jadrolinija for a passenger ferry linking Pula with Mali Losinj  and Zadar.

Getting Around Istria

To see it all, rent a car

rentalcars

Bus connections are excellent between Istrian coastal towns and you can easily reserve online at Bookaway . Between villages and towns, not so much. To explore the Istrian back country, you need to have wheels. More on getting around Istria.

Tourist Information in Istria

The Istria tourist association ( tel 052-452 797) is at Pionirska 1, Porec and generates mountains of useful brochures. Cyclists will appreciate the free guides, maps and routes.

Istria Travel Planner

Istria inspiration, what to see & do.

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Set against the Julian Alps, reflected by the Adriatic Sea sits a region rich with heritage and a wealth of natural goods.

A trademark red soil producing bountiful vineyards, truffle treasures, and expansive olive groves are attributes which give Istria its reputation as the new Tuscany.

Istria map

The Illyrians, the Hapsburgs, and the Venetians ensured a stage was set for dramatic history, intriguing mystery, and enchanting romance. What remains is a classy convergence of cultures and a dramatic landscape fit for international polo matches, golf excursions, wine tasting, and island hopping.

Best places to visit in Istria

Motovun Istria

Highlights of Istria

Istria is a picturesque region located in the northwest part of Croatia and bordered by Slovenia and the Adriatic Sea. Known for its beautiful beaches, charming coastal towns, stunning countryside, and rich cultural heritage Istria attracts visitors form all across Europe.

One of the highlights of Istria is its food and wine, particularly truffles, olive oil, and Istrian Malvasia wine. The region is also home to several historical sites, including the Roman amphitheatre in Pula, the Euphrasian Basilica in Poreč, and the hilltop town of Motovun.

Popular outdoor activities are hiking, cycling, and water sports. Whether you're interested in history, food, or outdoor activities, Istria is a must-visit destination in Croatia.

When to visit Istria

Istria is a year-round destination due to its Mediterranean climate and closeness to many European countries. The best time to visit is during the shoulder seasons of spring (April to May) and autumn (September to October). The weather is mild and there are fewer tourists, making it easier to explore the region and enjoy its attractions.

In spring, the countryside is alive with colourful wildflowers, and the weather is perfect for hiking, cycling, and exploring the many picturesque villages and towns. In addition, many food and wine festivals take place during this time, offering visitors the chance to sample Istria's delicious cuisine and wine.

In autumn, the weather is still warm and sunny, but with fewer crowds. This is an excellent time to visit the region's vineyards, as the grape harvest takes place in September and October. Visitors can participate in the grape-picking process, and taste the freshly pressed juice or sample some of Istria's famous wines.

If you prefer warm weather and swimming the summer months (June to August) are a good time as the sea temperatures are warm. Just be prepared for larger crowds and higher prices during this time. Many towns and villages host festivals and events showcasing local culture, music, and cuisine.

How to get to Istria

Istria, located in the northwest part of Croatia, shares borders with Slovenia and Italy. The region can be accessed by air, with the closest airports being Pula Airport in the south of Istria and Trieste Airport across the Italian border, both offering flights from various European cities. Istria is also easily accessible by car, with several motorways and highways leading to the region.

It's recommended to rent a car upon arrival to explore the many small towns and villages scattered throughout Istria, although guided tours to popular sights and attractions are also available for those who prefer not to drive.

Bus routes are available from major cities in Croatia, Slovenia, and Italy, with the main bus station in Pula and other stations in Rovinj , Poreč, and Umag.

Ferries from Venice and other parts of Italy also run daily during the summer months to the ports of Poreč and Rovinj. Read more about ferries from Rovinj to Venice and Trieste in Italy and Piran in Slovenia .

Top 5 things to do in Istria

  • Roman Arena in Pula
  • Motovun film festival
  • Truffle Days in Istria
  • Wine routes of Istria
  • Brijuni Islands National Park
  • Romantic weekend in Rovinj

Istria Travel Guide

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A large, triangular peninsula pointing down into the northern Adriatic, Istria (in Croatian, “Istra”) represents Croatian tourism at its most developed and diverse. In recent decades the region’s proximity to Western Europe has ensured an annual influx of sun-seeking tourists, with Italians, Germans, Austrians and what seems like the entire population of Slovenia flocking to the hotel developments that dot the coastline. Istrian beaches – often rocky areas that have been concreted over to provide sunbathers with a level surface on which to sprawl – lack the appeal of the out-of-the-way coves you’ll find on the Dalmatian islands, yet the hotel complexes and rambling campsites have done little to detract from the essential charm of the Istrian coast, with its compact towns of alley-hugging houses grouped around spear-belfried churches. Meanwhile, inland Istria is an area of rare and disarming beauty, characterized by medieval hilltop settlements and stone-built villages.

Brief history of Istria

West coast croatia, inland istria, east coast croatia.

Istria’s cultural legacy is a complex affair. Historically, Italians lived in the coastal towns while Croats were dominant in the rural areas. Despite post-World War II expulsions, there’s still a fair-sized Italian community, and Italian is very much the peninsula’s second language.

With its amphitheatre and other Roman relics, the port of Pula , at the southern tip of the peninsula, is Istria’s largest city and a good base for further exploration; many of Istria’s most interesting spots are only a short bus ride away. On the western side of the Istrian peninsula are pretty towns like Rovinj and Novigrad, with their cobbled piazzas, shuttered houses and back alleys laden with laundry. Poised midway between the two, Poreč is much more of a package destination, but offers bundles of Mediterranean charm if you visit out of season. Inland Istria couldn’t be more different – historic hilltop towns like Motovun, Grožnjan, Oprtalj and Hum look like leftovers from another century, half-abandoned accretions of ancient stone poised high above rich green pastures and forests.

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10 days  / from 2327 USD

Southern Pearls

This ten-day trip will take you around three adjacent countries, Croatia, Bosnia & Herzegovina, and Montenegro. Your tour starts in Split, Croatia, moving south (hence the name "Southern Pearls") over the island of Hvar and Mostar in Bosnia & Herzegovina to end up in Montenegro.

Tailor-made trips for   Croatia

Istria gets its name from the Histri, an Illyrian tribe that ruled the region before succumbing to the Romans in the second century BC. The invaders left a profound mark on the area, building farms and villas, and turning Pula into a major urban centre. Slav tribes began settling the peninsula from the seventh century onwards, driving the original romanized inhabitants of the peninsula towards the coastal towns or into the hills.

Venetians and Habsburgs

Coastal and inland Istria began to follow divergent courses as the Middle Ages progressed. The coastal towns adopted Venetian suzerainty from the thirteenth century onwards, while the rest of the peninsula came under Habsburg control. The fall of Venice in 1797 left the Austrians in charge of the whole of Istria. They confirmed Italian as the official local language, even though Croats outnumbered Italians by more than two to one. Istria received a degree of autonomy in 1861, but only the property-owning classes were allowed to vote, thereby excluding many Croats and perpetuating the Italian-speaking community’s domination of Istrian politics.

Croatians and Italians

Austrian rule ended in 1918, when Italy – already promised Istria by Britain and France as an inducement to enter World War I – occupied the whole peninsula. Following Mussolini’s rise to power in October 1922, the Croatian language was banished from public life, and Slav surnames were changed into their Italian equivalents. During World War II, opposition to fascism united Italians and Croats alike, although this didn’t prevent outbreaks of interethnic violence. The atrocities committed against Croats during the Fascist period were avenged indiscriminately by Tito's Partisans, and the foibe of Istria – limestone pits into which bodies were thrown – still evoke painful memories for Italians to this day.

After 1945 Istria became the subject of bitter wrangling between Yugoslavia and Italy, with the Yugoslavs ultimately being awarded the whole of the peninsula. The Yugoslav authorities actively pressured Istria’s Italians into leaving, and the region suffered serious depopulation as thousands fled. In response, the government encouraged emigration to Istria from the rest of the country. Thousands of Serb, Macedonian, Albanian and Bosnian families came to the Istrian coast to work in the 1960s and has never looked back.

Istria today

Geographically distant from the main flashpoints of the Serb-Croat conflict, Istria entered the twenty-first century more cosmopolitan, more prosperous and more self-confident than any other region of the country. With locals tending to regard Zagreb as the centre of a tax-hungry state, Istrian particularism is a major political force, with the Istrian Democratic Party (Istarska demokratska stranka, or IDS) consistently winning the lion’s share of the local vote.

One consequence of Istria’s newfound sense of identity has been a positive new attitude towards the Italian parts of its heritage. Bilingual road signs and public notices have gone up, and the region’s Italian-language schools – increasingly popular with cosmopolitan Croatian parents – are enjoying a new lease of life.

Istria’s west coast represents the peninsula at its most developed. A succession of purpose-built resorts are scattered along the shore, but it's the long stretches of unspoiled rocky coast that give the area its character. Inland, the coastal strip fades imperceptibly into conifer-studded heathland, olive groves and the fertile red earth of farmers' fields bounded by dry-stone walls. Here and there you'll spot the enigmatic, conical-roofed kažuni, the stone huts traditionally used by Istrian shepherds for shelter when overnighting with their flocks. Rovinj is Istria’s best-preserved old Venetian port; farther north, beyond the picturesque hilltop village of Vrsar and the Limski kanal, spreads the large resort of Poreč – package-holiday-land writ large, although it does boast the peninsula’s finest ecclesiastical attraction in the shape of the mosaic-filled Basilica of St Euphrasius.

The presidential playground

Although the islands were a popular rural retreat for wealthy Romans, the Brijunis’ history as an offshore paradise really began in 1893, when they were bought by Austrian industrialist Paul Kupelwieser. Kupelwieser, whose aim was to turn the islands into a luxury resort patronized by the cream of Europe’s aristocracy, brought in Nobel Prize-winning bacteriologist Robert Koch, who rid the Brijunis of malaria by pouring petroleum on the swamps. Smart hotels and villas were built on Veli Brijun, and the Mediterranean scrub was cleared to make way for landscaped parks. The Brijunis’ heyday was in the period immediately before World War I: Archduke Franz Ferdinand and Kaiser Wilhelm II both stayed on the islands, and struggling English-language teacher James Joyce came here to celebrate his 23rd birthday on February 2, 1905.

Following World War I, the development of Brijuni as a golf- and polo-playing resort helped preserve the islands’ reputation as a key venue for aristocratic fun and games. Running costs proved high however, and Kupelwieser’s son Karl committed suicide here in 1930 when it became clear that this elite paradise would never turn a profit.

After World War II, Tito decided to make Veli Brijun one of his official bases, planting much of the island’s subtropical vegetation and commissioning a residence (the White Villa, or “Bijela Vila”) in which he was able to dazzle visiting heads of state with his hospitality. It was here that Tito, Nehru and Nasser signed the Brioni Declaration in 1956, which paved the way for the creation of the Non-Aligned Movement, which nowadays consists of 118 nations (but none of the republics of the former Yugoslavia). Far away from prying eyes, the islands were the perfect spot from which to conduct secret diplomacy – Yugoslav-sponsored terrorist Abu Nidal was a house guest in 1978.

Tito himself resided in an ultra-secluded villa on the islet of Vanga, just off the western coast of Veli Brijun. He contrived to spend as much time here as possible, conducting government business when not busy hunting in his private game reserve or pottering about in his gardens and orchards (tangerines from which were traditionally sent to children’s homes throughout Yugoslavia as a New Year’s gift). International stars attending the Pula Film Festival stayed here as Tito’s personal guests, bestowing his regime with a veneer of showbiz glamour.

After Tito’s death in 1980 the islands were retained as an official residence, and a decade later became the favoured summer destination of President Tuđman. Tuđman’s rank ineptitude as a world statesman ensured that no foreign leader ever came to visit him here, and with successive presidents declining to make use of the islands, it looks like the Brijuni have lost their mythical status in Croatian politics.

How you react to Poreč (Parenzo) may well depend on what time of year you arrive. From May to late September, Istria’s largest tourist resort can seem positively engulfed by mass-market tourism; outside this period it can be just as charming as any other well-kept Mediterranean port. Happily, Poreč’s gargantuan hotel complexes are mainly concentrated in vast tourist settlements like Plava Laguna and Zelena Laguna to the south, and the town’s labyrinthine core of stone houses – ice-cream parlours and tacky souvenir shops notwithstanding – remains relatively unspoiled. The main points in Poreč’s favour are the Romanesque Basilica of Euphrasius, Istria’s one must-see ecclesiastical attraction, and the town’s transport links, which make it a convenient base from which to visit the rest of the Istrian peninsula.

The Basilica of Euphrasius

Poreč’s star turn is the Basilica of Euphrasius (Eufrazijeva basilika), situated in the centre of the town just off Eufrazijeva. Decorated with incandescent mosaics, this sixth-century Byzantine basilica created by Bishop Euphrasius around 535 is the central component of a complex that includes the bishop’s palace, atrium, baptistry and campanile. Entry is through the atrium, an arcaded courtyard whose walls incorporate ancient bits of masonry, although it was heavily restored in the last century.

The basilica was the last in a series of late Roman and early Byzantine churches built on this spot, the remains of which are still in evidence. Surviving stonework from the first, the Oratory of St Maur (named after the saint who is said to have lived in a house on the site), can be seen on the north side of the basilica. This was a secret place of worship when Christianity was still an underground religion, and fragments of mosaic show the sign of the fish, a clandestine Christian symbol of the time. Inside the basilica, the mosaic floor of a later, less secretive church has been carefully revealed through gaps in the existing floor. The present-day basilica is a rather bare structure: everything focuses on the apse, with its superb, late thirteenth-century ciborium and, behind this, the mosaics, with Byzantine solemnity quite different from the geometric late Roman designs. They’re studded with semiprecious gems, encrusted with mother-of-pearl and punctuated throughout by Euphrasius’s personal monogram – he was, it’s said, a notoriously vain man. The central part of the composition shows the Virgin enthroned with Child, flanked by St Maur, a worldly looking Euphrasius holding a model of his church and, next to him, his brother.

On the opposite side of the atrium, the octagonal baptistry (baptisterijum) is bare inside save for the entrance to the campanile, which you can ascend for views of Poreč’s red-brown roof tiles. On the north side of the atrium is the Bishop’s Palace, a seventeenth-century building harbouring a fascinating selection of mosaic fragments that once adorned the basilica floor, and an exquisite collection of Gothic altarpieces and Baroque statuary.

Reached by regular bus, Novigrad (Cittanova), 18km north of Poreč, is a pleasant peninsula-bound place centred around a Venetian-style church, although it has lost most of its old buildings apart from a few toothy sections of town wall. Novigrad’s privately run hotels have more character than the package accommodation in Poreč, and the atmosphere is more laidback all round – this is one place on the west coast where you can safely wander the streets without being stampeded to death by herds of ice-cream-wielding promenaders.

For bathing, the stretch of rock-and-concrete beach on the south side of town is outshone by the wonderful stretch of coastline to the north, where the rocky reefs backed by woods are more attractive and less crowded.

You don’t need to travel away from the sea for long before the hotels and flash apartments give way to rustic villages of heavy grey-brown stone, many of them perched high on hillsides, a legacy of the times when a settlement’s defensive position was more important than its access to cultivable land. The landscape is varied, with fields and vineyards squeezed between pine forests, orchards of oranges and olive groves. It’s especially attractive in autumn, when the hillsides turn a dappled green and auburn, and the hill villages appear to hover eerily above the early morning mists.

Istria’s hilltop settlements owe their appearance to the region’s borderland status. Occupied since Neolithic times, they were fortified and refortified by successive generations, serving as strongholds on the shifting frontier between Venice and Austria. Many suffered serious depopulation after World War II, when local Italians were forced to leave. Empty houses in these half-abandoned towns have been offered to painters, sculptors and musicians in an attempt to keep life going on the hilltops and stimulate tourism at the same time – hence the reinvention of Motovun and Grožnjan in particular as cultural centres.

Beram, 6km west of Pazin just off the road to Poreč and Motovun, is an unspoilt hilltop village with moss-covered stone walls and some of the finest sacred art in the region.

One kilometre northeast of the village is the Chapel of Our Lady on the Rocks (Crkvica svete Marije na škriljinah), a diminutive Gothic church with a set of frescoes dating from 1475, signed by local artist Vincent of Kastav. Of the many well-executed New Testament scenes that cover the chapel interior, two large frescoes stand out. The marvellous, 8m-long equestrian pageant of the Adoration of the Kings reveals a wealth of fine detail – distant ships, mountains, churches and wildlife – strongly reminiscent of early Flemish painting, while on the west wall a Dance of Death is illustrated with macabre clarity: skeletons clasp scythes and blow trumpets, weaving in and out of a Chaucerian procession of citizens led by the pope. A rich merchant brings up the rear, greedily clinging to his possessions while indicating the money with which he hopes to buy his freedom.

Our Lady on the Rocks

Perhaps the most famous of the Istrian hill towns, Motovun (Montona) is an attractive clump of medieval houses straddling a green wooded hill, high above a patchwork of wheatfields and vineyards. Like so many towns in Istria, Motovun was predominantly Italian-speaking until the 1940s (when racing driver Mario Andretti was born here), after which most of the inhabitants left for Italy. The problem of depopulation was partly solved by turning Motovun into an artists’ colony – the godfather of Croatian naïve art, Krsto Hegedušić, was one of the first painters to move here in the 1960s, and several studios and craft shops open their doors to tourists over the summer.

The Motovun Film Festival

All accommodation in Motovun and central Istria is likely to be booked solid during the Motovun Film Festival , which usually straddles a long weekend at the end of July or beginning of August. Since its inception in 1999 the festival has established itself as Croatia’s premier cinematic event, with feature films (European art-house movies for the most part) premiered on an open-air screen in the main town square. Featuring a minimum of segregation between stars and public, the festival is also one of the key social events of the summer, with thousands of celebrants ascending Motovun’s hill – most are here to enjoy the 24-hour party atmosphere as much as the films. Box offices at the entrance to the Old Town sell tickets to the screenings.

Straddling a grassy ridge high above the Mirna valley, Oprtalj (Portole) was, like Motovun, off the map for many years, half of its houses in ruins and tufts of grass growing from the walls of the rest. In recent years, however, it’s undergone a rebirth; old houses are being renovated, new restaurants are opening and more and more visitors are finding out about the place. Both the fifteenth-century St Mary’s Church (Crkva svete Marije) in the village centre, and the sixteenth-century Chapel of St Rock (Crkvica svetog Roka) at the entrance to town have some interesting fresco fragments you can glimpse through the windows; otherwise the nicest way to spend your time here is simply to wander.

The Parenzana hiking and cycling trail

Completed in 1902 but only operational until 1935, the Parenzana (derived from Parenzo, the Italian name for Poreč) was a 130km-long narrow-gauge railway line that linked the port of Trieste with the growing tourist destination of Poreč. It followed a meandering course across the Istrian countryside, with embankments and viaducts negotiating the peninsula’s notoriously up-and-down terrain. The process of converting the former track into a foot- and cycle-path was begun in 2006, with a highly scenic 60km section of the railway (“Parenzana I”) in central Istria receiving most of the initial attention. A second phase (“Parenzana II”), revitalizing the stretch from Vižinada, 10km southwest of Motovun, to Poreč, was completed in 2012.

The most breathtaking sections of the Parenzana are those connecting Buje, Grožnjan, Livade, Motovun and Vižinada. Gradients are reasonably smooth, and seasoned cyclists will be able to cover a lot of ground in the space of a day’s riding; walkers should limit themselves to one stage at a time.

Free maps of the Parenzana are available from tourist offices in inland Istria; for more information see parenzana.net .

North of Motovun on the other side of the Mirna valley, Grožnjan (Grisignana) is an ancient hill village that was severely depopulated during the Italian exodus after World War II and given a new lease of life in the 1970s when many of its properties were offered to artists as studios. There’s also a summer school for young musicians, many of whom take part in outdoor concerts organized as part of the Grožnjan Musical Summer (Grožnjansko glazbeno ljeto), which takes place every August. Indeed high summer is the best time to come, when most of the artists are in residence and a smattering of galleries open their doors. Outside this time, Grožnjan can be exceedingly quiet, but it’s an undeniably attractive spot, with its jumble of shuttered houses made from honey-brown stone, covered in creeping plants. The town’s battlements command superb views of the surrounding countryside, with Motovun perched on its hilltop to the southeast, and the ridge of Mount Učka dominating the horizon beyond it.

The second-largest town in the Istrian interior is Buzet, whose original old hilltop settlement quietly decays on the heights above the River Mirna while the bulk of the population lives in the new town below. Though it’s not as pretty as Motovun or Grožnjan, Buzet has good accommodation, good food and is an excellent base from which to explore the region. The town’s importance as a truffle-hunting centre is celebrated with the Buzetska Subotina festival (“Buzet Saturday”; usually the second weekend of September), when an enormous truffle omelette is cooked on the main square and shared out among thousands of visitors – the tourist office will have details.

Reached by a winding road or a steep flight of stairs, old Buzet’s cobbled streets seem a world away from the largely concrete new quarter down on the valley floor. The remaining ramparts of Buzet’s medieval fortifications provide expansive views, with the Mirna valley below and the imposing grey ridge of the Ćićarija to the east.

Framed against the backdrop of the rocky Ćićarija ridge, the dainty village of Roč, about 10km east of Buzet, sits behind sixteenth-century walls so low that the place looks more like a child’s sandcastle than an erstwhile medieval strongpoint. Roč has a strong folk music tradition centred on an archaic, push-button accordion known as the Trieština, which is rarely found outside Istria and northeastern Italy. The best time to hear it in action is during the International Accordion Festival (Zarmoniku v Roč) over the second weekend in May: the tourist office in Buzet will have details.

With their neat rows of sturdy farmhouses, the narrow lanes of Roč provide a wonderful environment in which to savour the rustic atmosphere of eastern Istria. There’s a small display of Roman tombstones inside the arch of the main gate into town, and the Romanesque St Barthol’s Church (Crkva svetog Bartula) in the centre, an ancient, barn-like structure lurking behind an enormous chestnut tree and sporting an unusually asymmetrical bell tower.

Heaped up on a hill surrounded by grasslands and forest, Hum is the self-proclaimed “smallest town in the world”, since it has preserved all the attributes – walls, gate, church, campanile – that a town is supposed to possess, despite its population having dwindled to a current total of just fourteen. Originally fortified in the eleventh century, Hum was a prosperous place in the Middle Ages, and it still looks quite imposing as you pass through a town gate topped by a castellated bell tower. Beyond, the neo-Baroque Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Crkva blažene djevice Marije), built in 1802 as the last gasp of urban development in a shrinking town, lords it over a settlement which now amounts to two one-metre-wide streets paved with grassed-over cobbles and lined by chunky grey-brown farmhouses. A clutch of souvenir shops (usually open April–Oct) sell Glagolitic characters modelled from clay or wood, and locally made biska (mistletoe brandy).

Compared with the tourist complexes of the west, Istria’s east coast is a relatively quiet area with few obvious attractions. East of Pula , the main road to Rijeka heads inland, remaining at a distance from the shoreline for the next 50km.

Thirty kilometres out of Pula the road passes through RAŠA, built by the Italians as a model coal-mining town in 1937. Alongside neat rows of workers’ houses, Raša also boasts a fine example of Mussolini-era architecture in St Barbara’s Church (Crkva svete Barbare) – Barbara being the patron saint of miners. It’s an austere but graceful structure featuring a campanile in the shape of a pithead, and a curving facade representing an upturned coal barrow.

Five kilometres beyond Raša, Labin is divided into two parts, with an original medieval town crowning the hill above and a twentieth-century suburb, Podlabin, sprawling across the plain below. Labin was for many years the coal-mining capital of the Adriatic, and earned itself a place in working-class history in 1921, when striking miners declared the “Labin Republic” before being pacified by the Italian authorities. There’s precious little sign of mining heritage nowadays apart from the one remaining pithead in Podlabin, which still bears the word “Tito” proudly spelt out in wrought-iron letters. Subsidence caused by mining led to Labin’s Old Town being partially abandoned in the 1980s, although the subsequent decline of the coal industry, coupled with a thoroughgoing restoration programme, encouraged people to return. The offer of cheap studio space encouraged artists to move to old Labin, and several ateliers open their doors from April through to October. It’s consequently one of the more attractive of Istria’s hill towns – all the more so for its proximity to the beach at Rabac, only forty minutes’ walk downhill.

The Old Town

Labin’s hilltop Old Town is a warren of steep alleys threading their way between houses attractively decked out in ochres and pinks. At the highest point of the Old Town there is a viewing terrace providing superb views of the coast, with Rabac in the foreground and the mountainous shape of Cres beyond.

Top image: Ancient town Buzet with bell tower and old buildings flying above clouds. Unusual landscape of tourist destination in Istria, Croatia © Mny-Jhee/Shutterstock

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updated 3.09.2021

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Rovinj

Istria travel guide

Read our essential Istria travel guide for the best destinations in the region, with great things to do, sightseeing, bars, hotels, restaurants and more...

Istria feels separate from the rest of Croatia . Christened 'Terra Magica' by the Romans, this small, triangular peninsula was part of Italy until after World War II. Istria has its own, celebrated gastronomy , and a range of great delicacies which include wines, prosciutto ( pršut ) and olive oils . Nothing is ever too far away, and its interior is every bit as beautiful as the coast. Remnants of Istria's Roman, Byzantine and Habsburg past can be found in its churches, sites and museums. You can spend the day at the coastal resorts of Rovinj , Poreč or Novigrad and dine luxuriously in the main town of Pula , home to some excellent restaurants. North-east, towards the Slovenian border, is a small hub of quality Istrian restaurants and spa retreats. Inland is dotted with timeless hilltop villages like Grožnjan, Motovun or Hum, and restaurants that Italians cross the border to savour. On the wilder, less-developed east coast, Rabac has seen a number of recent, family-friendly or boutique hotel openings. Oddities such as Tito's surreal island menagerie of Brijuni make a longer stay in Istria a varied and attractive proposition.

RECOMMENDED:  More great travel destinations in Croatia

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Rovinj is Istria’s showpiece, its answer to Dalmatia’s Dubrovnik, with far fewer crowds and a more realistic view of itself. It maintains a meticulously...

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Pula is as urban as Istria gets. It is indisputably the region’s commercial centre, and is home to almost half its population. The city’s growing status as a...

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Poreč is something of a cross between Pula and Rovinj, although neither as street-smart nor as bohemian. It can be hard at first to recognise its true value....

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Two Monkeys Travel Group

The Ultimate Travel Guide to Istria, Croatia #shareistria @shareistria

Istria Croatia , the largest peninsula in the Adriatic Sea, is a utopia of nature, food, history and culture. The seemingly endless rugged coastline and sandy beaches with crystal-clear blue waters lapping at their shores offer the best beach holidays in Croatia, while the inland regions of Central Istria provide a cooler, more tranquil retreat into green, rolling hills, vineyards, castles, and truffles to rival the country’s neighbour,  Italy . The rich history of Istria has seen it pass through the hands of early pirate tribes, the Romans, Venetians, the Goths, the Austrian Empire, the Italians and Yugoslavians. All these influences have created the tapestry of culture, tradition, architecture and cuisine that all bind Istria together into one of the best places to visit in  Europe .

Two Monkeys Travel - Guide to Istria Croatia

For visitors of all ages, nationalities and interests, there are things to do in Istria which will keep everyone relaxed, entertained, and satisfied as they explore, swim, play, wander and most importantly of all, eat! Restaurants in Istria serve up a unique blend of Mediterranean and Continental cuisine, constantly adapting their menus to the fresh seasonal produce which is fished, grown and reared all over Croatia. Istria is famed for its olive oils, locally wines made from locally grown grapes and of course, Istrian truffles, or Istrian Tartufi, which are hunted out using the centuries old methods understood only by the truffle hunter and his dog. The largest white truffle ever recorded, at 1.310 kilograms, was found in 1999 by Giancarlo Zigante in the forest of Motovun, although that record may have been topped by a larger one found in Italy in 2014. You can actually see a cast of Zigante’s truffle in his truffle restaurant – named Zigante – at the base of Motovun Mountain!

Table of Contents

Travel Guide to Pula in Istria, Croatia

PULA - Two Monkeys Travel - Guide to Istria Croatia

Pula is considered as one of the largest cities in the Southern part of the Istrian peninsula, offering an outstanding display of its coastline, great historical attractions to see, the hustle and bustle in town, just by the sea, and lots of beaches that tourists surely enjoy! Situated in the South-western shore, Pula is considered to be one of the most beautiful bays in the Adriatic coasts. Explore the city and take time strolling along the beaches, try the seaside cafes and discover this culture rich city, see the Roman architectures, from arenas, castles, temples, cathedrals, they have it all here. Truly, this is one of the best places to spend holiday in Croatia.

Two Monkeys Tours

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1. Visit The Pula Arena

The Ultimate Travel Guide to Istria, Croatia #shareistria @shareistria

Stroll around and witness a great piece of the city’s history by visiting the Pula Arena. It’s a beautifully preserved Roman building with the display of the best architectural wonders and an impressive amphitheatre. You can  even enjoy the view with a cup of coffee at the top of the arena, definitely one of the best things to do in Istria.

2. See the Temple Of Augustus

Travel through the Roman time and be amazed by the well preserved Roman ruins in the area. This is definitely worth the visit, with a lovely town to walk around in, truly one of the best things to do in Istria!

3. See the Arco dei Sergi

A stunning arch brimming with history, Arco dei Sergi is an impressive structure located in a lovely square and is part of the old city Roman walls. After visiting this magnificent architecture, visit some of the great cafes and bars nearby. A structure with interesting history, this is truly a must-see and one of the most interesting things to see in Istria.

4. Enjoy the marine life in Aquarium Pula

Definitely a great activity in Pula where you can enjoy different species of marine life. It’s a small privately-run aquarium located in an old fort in the tourist area of Verudella. Lots to see, explore and learn, perfect for younger kids and has a nearby outdoor spot great for picnics. It’s a perfect place for the whole family and definitely one of the best things to do in Istria for the whole family.

5. See the floor mosaic, The Punishment of Dirce

It is said that this wondrous treasure of Pula was revealed during the destruction of WWII. This mosaic is suggestive of the treasures that lie beneath the medieval and more recent structures in Pula central. It once graced the floor of a wealthy Roman. Definitely, a visit to this interesting Roman mosaic is one of the best things to do in Istria for anyone with an interest in art and history.

Extra Tip: Check out Plumguide for the best holiday homes and vacation rentals in Croatia .

1. Konoba Medeja Restaurant

If relaxing atmosphere and delicious food and wine are what you are looking for, then Konoba Medeja Restaurant is the right choice. This restaurant is an excellent dinner choice after a day sightseeing Pula. Small place but they offer great menu option, great variety of wine selections plus a cozy warm feel at their tavern. It is highly recommended and truly one of the best restaurants in Pula, Croatia.

2. TiVoli Restaurant

If great pizza and a sure relaxing atmosphere are what you are looking for in a restaurant, then TiVoli is the place to be. It’s a hidden gem in Pula with a great food service, fine style and sure great value for monky. It is well worth visiting and definitely one of the best restaurants in Pula, Croatia.

3. Farabuto Restaurant

Farabuto Restaurant is a fabulous little restaurant tucked away from the busy town center, offering exquisite and delicious seafood. The restaurant serves great selection of fresh fish and wine s as well, at fair prices. They serve delicious meals, well prepared and decorated perfectly. Highly recommended, this is truly one of the best restaurants in Pula, Croatia.

4. Restaurant Oasi

A combination of nice ambiance and very good service, that’s what Restaurant Oasi is. It’s a relaxing little place in Pula having nice staff and serving real good food. Serving specialties, food here is sure an excellent choice. What makes it one of the best restaurants in Pula, Croatia is the excellent food that they serve, the nice place and of course, the professional service.

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1. Park Plaza Histria Pula – Pula, Istria

A well located hotel, only steps away from the beach, Park Plaza Histria Pula provides panoramic views and accommodation with balconies. It also has a wellness, spa and restaurants serving traditional Istrian and international cuisines. This is one of the best luxury hotels in Pula, Istria for anyone looking for self contained relaxation and indulgence.

Price Range: Twin/Double Room from $232

Find the best deals on  Booking.com  |  Expedia

Don’t just take our word for it, check out real people’s reviews on  Tripadvisor

2. Oasi – Boutique Hotel & Restaurant – Pula, Istria

Oasi – Boutique Hotel & Restaurant is an eco-friendly hotel using solar energy for warming water and heating indoor spaces during the cold periods of the year. It’s an excellent hotel well situated in a quiet location, offering elegant and classic interiors with modern amenities.

Price Range: Double Room from $172

3. Hotel Valsabbion – Pula, Istria

A modern and elegantly designed boutique hotel, Hotel Valsabbion offers high-quality rooms and a penthouse apartment. Well situated, it’s an excellent little find at the top of the hill leading down to the marina in a beautiful little beach cove area.

Price Range: Twin / Double Room from $214

Find the best deals on  Booking.com  |  Agoda

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Travel Guide to Medulin in Istria, Croatia

medulin - Two Monkeys Travel - Guide to Istria

The name Medulin was said to be derived from the old Roman name, ‘Mutila’. This city is an old fishing town situated in the Southern part of the Istrian peninsula of Croatia. It’s the perfect place for hopeless romantic destination seekers since the city has abounding flora and fauna. Medulin has lots of beaches to choose from as well – from sandy, pebbly, rocky, they have it all here. It is also one of the favorite destinations for sporting activities, great place for sports fanatics! Lots to do and see in this wonderful city,  from historical landmarks, night clubs, cafes, and other natural attractions, this is definitely a great place to book your holidays in Croatia.

1. Try the Medulin Excursions

Take a lovely cruise around the island of the Medulin peninsula. This is an excellent choice for a day out in Medulin. Boat rides are perfect for travelling around the islands, seeing the local surroundings and enjoying a relaxing adventure, truly one of the best things to do in Medulin, Croatia.

2. Try Metta Float Yoga & SUP

This is a must-try water activity that combines exercise, relaxation and lots of fun with a chance of spotting a ray fish swimming across Medulin bay. Start up with the basics of paddle boarding, then off with some basic yoga moves. Definitely fun and one of the best things to do in Medulin, Croatia.

3. Visit Isola di Levan

If water and relaxation are what you are looking for, Isola di Levan is the place for you. It’s a lovely little place full of Croatian charm, and very relaxing. This small island is 30 minutes away from Medulin, offering sandy beaches, great bars and amazing food. Truly, visiting this place is one of the best things to do in Medulin, Croatia.

4. Drop by the Wine and Souvenir Shop Terraneo

Find cheap deals and the best local wine, olive oil, sweets and other home made Croatian products in this excellent shop. Don’t forget to drop by here and buy gifts for folks back home. Truly, this is something not to miss and one of the best things to do in Medulin, Croatia!

5. Riding experience at Samy’s Ranch

Enjoy the best horse back riding experience at Samy’s Ranch.  All horses are impeccably well trained and ideal for experienced and novice riders.  Prices are very good value for money too. Definitely, this is one very enjoyable experience and one of the best things to do in Medulin, Croatia.

1. Salt & pepper Restaurant

Salt & pepper Restaurant is one superb place offering excellent service, great wine and a very nice ambiance with great music. This restaurant serves  good variety of food, freshly cooked from the grill. Definitely, this is one of the best restaurants in Medulin, Croatia.

2. Bistro-Pizzeria FINANCA Restaurant

Bistro-Pizzeria FINANCA Restaurant is a nice restaurant serving a very good choice of food, of big portions. This place also offers great view of the sea. Excellent service is a plus, truly one of the best restaurants in Medulin, Croatia. As usual on the Istrian coast, the seafood is always a speciality!

3. Fun Medulin Restaurant

Great food, great people, it’s most certainly one of the best places to eat in Medulin! Fun Medulin offers its menu with wide selection from Croatian, Austrian and even International specialties. Another great thing about this restaurant is its friendly staff and owners. This restaurant is highly recommended and definitely one of the best restaurants in Medulin, Croatia.

4. Kalavojna Restoran & Enoteca Restaurant

A restaurant serving great perfectly cooked Istrian food and fine desserts, Kalavojna Restoran & Enotec Restaurant is a sure great choice when in Medulin. Serving real good food, the place also has nice interiors and offers great service, making it one of the best restaurants in Medulin, Croatia.

1. Hotel Minerva, Medulin, Istria

Hotel Minerva is a very nice little hotel just blocks away from the waterfront promenade. All rooms have parquet floors, a safety box and a small fridge, while their private bathrooms come with a hairdryer and free toiletries. The hotel also features a garden with outdoor seating furniture. Truly one of the best hotels in Medulin, Croatia.

Price Range: Double Room from $109

2. Park Plaza Belvedere Medulin, Istria

A beautifully kept and very modern hotel, Park Plaza Belvedere Medulin is an excellent hotel boasting highly stylized interiors. The staff is the heart of the hotel and everyone, from the cleaners to the reception, are all friendly and welcoming. Definitely, this is one of the best hotels in Medulin, Croatia.

Price Range: Twin / Double Room from $134

3. Rooms Laura, Medulin, Istria

Rooms Laura is located in the centre of the traditional fishing village Medulin, in southern Istria. It offers air-conditioned rooms with a private bathroom, satellite TV and a restaurant.

Price Range: Double Room from $86

Find the best deals on  Booking.com

Don’t just take our word for it, check out real people’s reviews on  Booking.com

Travel Guide to Novigrad in Istria, Croatia

Novigrad - Two Monkeys Travel - Guide to Istria Croatia

The Peaceful fishing town of Novigrad is  situated in the Western part of Croatia, and considered as a great place for food lovers. This city is known to be one of the top Istrian gourmet destinations, haven of gastronomic lavishness, of abounding Mediterranean food. Sashimi, wines, desserts, pizzas, breads, they got it all here. It’s a captivating tourist destination with lots to offer. Experience the historical and cultural heritage of the city, unfolding the rich history, culture and precious traditions. Visit magnificent sites and try to see for yourself the purest sea of the Mediterranean. Relax your way as you explore Novigrad.

1. Fun and relaxation in Aquapark Istralandia

Suited for a fun family day, Aquapark Istralandia is great place to spend a beautiful summer day! They have “Space rocket” for adrenaline lovers and “hydro massage pools” for pure relaxation. Family slides with inflatables are really fun and even young kids can have fun in here! Definitely, fun time in this water park is considered as one of the best things to do in Novigrad, Istria.

2. Visit the Church of St. Pelage and St. Benedetto

A beautiful little church, a great historical structure, that offers a quaint and a very peaceful experience as you enter. Its worth a look inside, reminds tourists of how important worship was to local folks way back. The bell tower is quite beautiful and in Venetian style. Truly, a visit to this place is one of the best things to do in Novigrad, Croatia.

3. Visit the K.u.K. Marinemuseum

One of the best things to do in Novigrad, Croatia is a visit to the K.u.K. Marine Museum, perfect for any naval history buff. It displays lots of exhibits and a great deal of information. There are lots of informative signs and comprehensive descriptions, while the owner/manager himself is practically a history book. Great place, a must visit to remind you that Istria is not just about beaches and good food.

4. Pinesta Beach

Pinesta Beach is the perfect place for relaxation. Truly a great place to walk, with old pines as shade and a convenient location, close to the town if you need time for some quick shopping or if hunger strikes. A day in Pinesta beach, definitely one of the best things to do in Novigrad, Croatia.

5. Muzej Lapidarium

This museum collection includes architectural elements, and for the most part, the elements of liturgical furniture covering periods from the 1st to the 18th century. Most of these pieces come from the nearby church of St. Maximus. One of the best things to do in Novigrad, Croatia is to take a glimpse back in time through the historic core of the these collections. [/tab][tab]

1. Konoba Gatto Nero Restaurant

Honest, authentic and truly delicious food, you got to experience this fine restaurant in Novigrad, the Komoba Gatto Nero Restaurant. An added factor is the well matched atmosphere of the place, and great music as well. This is truly one of the best restaurants in Novigrad, Croatia.

2. Vitriol Restaurant

One of the best in town, Vitriol Restaurant offers an incredible view that everyone will surely enjoy. Aside from the great coffee and dessert that they serve, this restaurant is a perfect place to relax. Truly, this is one of the best restaurants in Novigrad, Croatia.

3. Lungomare Restaurant

Lungomare Restaurant is a great place by the sea. The atmosphere is super-cosy and the ambiance is lovely. The quality of the food is also outstanding and everything is at a very reasonable price. Definitely, this is one of the best restaurants in Novigrad, Croatia.

4. Konoba San Benedetto Restaurant

Offering exceptional food selection, Konoba San Benedetto Restaurant offers good quality dish, having your meal prepared right in front of you, from their amazing coal grill. Aside from quality food, staff here is excellent and food has fair price. This is definitely one of the best restaurants in Novigrad, Croatia.

5. Restaurant Navigare

Serving fine Istrian cuisine, Restaurant Navigare is the prefect choice if you are into seriously high end Istrian dining experience. Definitely one of the best restaurants in Novigrad, Croatia!

1. Aminess Laguna Hotel

Located within easy walking distance to Novigrad’s old town, Aminess Laguna Hotel offers offers air-conditioned rooms with satellite TV. It’s a hotel with amazing hospitality, with very friendly and helpful staff, great location, excellent food and very clean – this is definitely one of the best hotels in Novigrad, Croatia.

Price Range: Double Room from $132

Find the best deals on  Booking.com  |  Expedia   |  Agoda

2. Hotel Cittar

The hotel is built right into the old city walls and is conveniently placed right by the port. It features a restaurant, a bar/lounge and express check-in. It’s a comfortable hotel in the centre of the town which offers pretty much everything you need!

Price Range: Double Room from $125

3. Hotel Villa Cittar

The comfortable family hotel Villa Cittar is located in the historical centre of Novigrad, few meters away from the beach and the marina. Rooms are very well furnished, decorated and very well sized. Highly recommended, this is definitely one of the best hotels in Novigrad, Croatia.

Price Range: Double Room from $147

Travel Guide to Porec in Istria, Croatia

Porec - Two Monkeys Travel - Guide to Istria Croatia

Dubbed as the ‘Pearl of Croatian tourism’ this beautiful city lies in the Western coast of Istira, offering great cultural and historical attractions. Aside from the rich history of the city, it also offers entertaining activities, leisure, sports and even extreme activities. This is city is one great spot for sports enthusiast and adrenaline junkies with activities offered like horseback riding, cycling, paintball, carting, water skiing and more. The city also has one great historical treasure, the Euphrasian Basicilica, a UNESCO recognized and protected world heritage site

1. Visit Porec Old Town

Visit the beautiful historic old town of Porec, a great spot surrounded by Venetian buildings, lots of little streets with restaurants, bars and shops. Great town, great people, a real holiday feel, this is definitely one of the best things to do in Porec, Croatia.

2. See the Euphrasius Basilica

A UNESCO World Heritage site, Euphrasius Basilica is a magnificent cathedral that has been a place of worship from Roman times. With its magnificent architecture, it displays amazing mosaics and magnificent views from the easily climbed bell tower. Truly, this is one of the best things to do in Porec, Croatia.

3. Be amazed with the Jama – Grotta Baredine

Definitely a must-see and one of the best things to do in Porec, Jama – Grotta Baredine is the perfect way to escape the stress and strains of everyday life. Amazing stalactites, stalagmites and the salamanders living in the lakes at the bottom are well worth the trip.

4. See the Round Tower

Offering a magnificent view, the Round tower is a good spot to watch sundown. It sits right at the edge of the old town facing the Adriatic Sea, a lovely venue for some drinks. An interesting old building with a fantastic view, truly one of the best things to do in Porec, Croatia.

5. Try the Aquacolors

Enjoy the fun rides in Aquacolors, the perfect place for thrill-seekers! This is a great day out for children and family, and can be truly enjoyed by everyone. The place is spotlessly clean and is not very busy, so queuing for the rides isn’t that bad.  Great value and total fun, make Aquacolors one of the best things to do in Porec, Croatia.

1. Konoba Aba Restaurant

Konoba Aba Restaurant is a sure perfect spot to spend that lazy afternoon place, as they offer real good food in a nice cozy place. What makes this restaurant a good place to chill is the happy friendly service of the crew. Definitely, this is one of the nicest restaurants in Porec, Croatia.

2. San Mauro Restaurant

The great service and incredibly tasty food is what San Mauro Restaurant offers. The staff are even amazing with their perfect service and the price of food is affordable. Definitely, this is one of the best restaurants in Porec, Croatia.

3. Konoba Daniela Restaurant

Serving great traditional Istrian cuisines, that is what Konoba Daniela Restaurant is know for. Superb food and service is what they offer, plus great food quality. It’s a great family tavern and that’s what makes it one of the best restaurants in Porec, Croatia!

4. Sv. Nikola Restaurant

If excellent food and wine is what you are looking for, then Sv. Nikola Restauarant is the place for you. The perfect view overlooking the harbor with yachts parked is a sure added factor to a great dining experience, of great ambiance. Definitely, this is one of the best restaurants in Porec, Croatia.

1. Valamar Diamant Hotel

Catch some rays at the nearby beach and pamper yourself at Valamar Diamant Hotel’s full-service spa. It’s a nice hotel outside of Old Town Porec, well situated in a quiet area and ideal for a short walk to the old town. Truly, this is one of the best hotels in Porec, Croatia.

Price Range: Classic Double or Twin Room, Balcony from $178

Find the best deals on  Expedia

Don’t just take our word for it, check out real people’s reviews on  Tripadvisor

2. Hotel Laguna Parentium 

Spend the day relaxing on the beach or at a marina before returning for a meal at one of Hotel Laguna Parentium’s 2 restaurants. Hotel Laguna Parentium is a complete package of quality – quiet and comfortable with huge guest rooms, well equipped, modern and perfectly clean. Definitely one of the best hotels in Porec, Croatia.

Price Range: Double Room from $293

3. Valamar Crystal 

Along with a restaurant, this hotel has an outdoor pool and a bar/lounge and free Wi-Fi in public areas. Valamar Crystal is great hotel with famous Istrian hospitality, with friendly staff. This is definitely one of the best hotels in Porec, Croatia.

Price Range: Twin Room from $215

Travel Guide to Vrsar in Istria, Croatia

Vrsar 1 - Two Monkeys Travel - Guide to Istria Croatia

The touristy town of Vrsar is located South of Porec, boasting one of the most beautiful archipelagos in the land. This city is an ideal place for sailing explorations since boats can be easily rented right from the town itself. Some of the must-sees in this incredible city include the St. Foska church, main town gates, summer house of Porec bishops, old romantic gates from the 13th century, roman magazine and the necropolis, romantic basilica St. Mary of the Seas and countless other historical sites. Like the rest of Istria, it’s a real food haven as well, offering Istrian specialties, like truffles, and a variety of restaurants serving the best sea foods.

1. Visit the Skulpturenpark Vrsar

Skulpturenpark Vrsar displays a fantastic collection of modern sculpture, each piece is museum quality. Parking on the east side, you can walk down to the docks, up to the church on top then down to the Sculpture garden. It’s a visual treat around every corner, definitely one of the best things to do in Vrsar, Croatia.

2. Try the Starfish Diving Center

One of the best things to do in Vrsar, Croatia is to submerge yourself deep into the clear blue water! Spend the holidays with the Starfish team with an amazing diving experience and with their well trained staff. There are a wide variety of wrecks to dive up and down the Croatian coast, many of which can be reached from Vrsar via boat.

3. Try the Sport Center Montraker

Enjoy a full days of sport at Sport Center Montraker. The place is beautiful and it’s a lot of fun! It’s a great place to learn wake boarding and windsurfing, with lessons provided and you have a full day of all the best things to do in Vrsar, Croatia.

4. Try the Aeropark Vrsar – Tours

If you love aviation, you’ll appreciate immersing yourself in this little gem just outside the quaint little port town of Vrsar. Just pay for €5 token  and you’ll be able to roam around the collection of aircraft relics, a nice and cheap option for a day trip.

5. Try Skokpadobranom skydiving

If you’re an adrenaline junkie, then one of the best things to do in Vrsar has to be an awesome skydiving experience with Skokpadobranom skydiving! You can try the unforgettable tandem jump! The airport is a tiny facility, in the countryside, with a few old and no-longer-used air planes near the airport entrance. The hand-mounted Go-Cams worn by the instructors record the whole experience so you’ll been able to enjoy watching the adventure again and again!

1. Gradina Grill Restaurant

Gradina Grill Restaurants offers great tasting food, from seafood, meat to desserts. Aside from great food, they also offer a great selection of wines, local, classic Italian, or even French ones, they have it all here. Service is even fast and friendly, truly one of the best restaurants in Vrsar, Croatia.

2. Orlandin Restaurant

Orlandin Restaurant is definitely one of the best restaurants in Vrsar, Orlandin serving quality, real good food, served by its friendly staff. Location is even great since it is well situated on a beach setting, definitely one of the best restaurants in Vrsar, Croatia.

3. Konoba “Kod Luce” Restaurant

Konoba “Kod Luce” is a restaurant run by a family serving exceptional local specialties. Great food at very reasonable price. Highly recommended, this is truly one of the best restaurants in Vrsar, Croatia.

4. Trost Restaurant

Offering marvelous view across the harbour, Trost Restaurant is well known for serving excellently fresh seafood. Service here is even great, with their friendly staff. The great combination of the amazing views and great food make it one of the best restaurants in Vrsar, Croatia.

1. Hotel Vista – Vrsar, Istria

Hotel Vista offers Adriatic-inspired themed rooms, with air-conditioning, parquet flooring, a private bathroom and a flat-screen satellite TV. The hotel is well situate at the center, and also has a lovely setting overlooking Vrsar and the sea.

Price Range: Twin / Double Room from $120

Don’t just take our word for it, check out real people’s reviews on   Tripadvisor

2. All-inclusive Resort Funtana – Vrsar, Istria

All inclusive resort Funtana is the real deal, with its beautiful sea and rocky beaches, to the friendly and young staff. Spacious and clean room with a nice small balcony, it’s a lovely resort with good value for money.

P rice Range: Double Room from $231

Don’t just take our word for it, check out real people’s on  Tripadvisor

3. Hotel Pineta – Vrsar, Istria

Restaurants, an indoor pool and a fitness center are available at this hotel, with free WiFi in public areas. The grand Pineta hotel is well situated on a hill, facing Vrsar, providing a beautiful view of the town, its picturesque waterfront and a string of green islets surrounding it, earning Hotel Pineta a spot as one of the best hotels in Vrsar, Croatia.

Price Range: Double Room from $159

Travel Guide to Rovinj in Istria, Croatia

Rovinj - Two Monkeys Travel - Guide to Istria Croatia

Considered as one of the favourite holiday destinations in the Croatian coasts, this active fishing port in the Western point of Istria has lots to offer. Rovinj is considered as the last true Meditteranean fishing port, despite Though tourism is continuously booming, and whilst businesses like hotels, cafes and restaurants emerge, Rovinj still holds to be the last true Mediterranean fishing port where one can enjoy mornings having breakfast whilst fishermen haul their catch into the harbour. It is also in Rovinj where you can find the largest Baroque building in Istria, the Church of St. Euphemia, and one of the oldest aquariums in Europe, the Rovinj Aquarium.

1. Visit the Old Town

One of the simplest but best things do in ROvinj is to explore the ancient streets on foot. It’s vibrant place full of little artisan shops situated up and down the many endless rabbit warrens of cobbled streets. The old town has a fascinating mixture of architectural styles. Most people just do the one route up to the cathedral and back, but this town deserves to be explored more fully.

2. Take a walk at Punta Corrente

A beautiful park, great for a walk where you can amble around, enjoy the beautiful trees and the vistas of crystal clear water and the town of Rovinj. There are secluded little beaches along the path where you can hang out and enjoy the views and lapping waves, and there is a nice little café partway up the peninsula, great venue to enjoy a glass of Istrian wine while watching sundown.

3. See the Port of Rovinj

Enjoy the best part of an Istrian life by seeing the port of Rovinj. It’s  a happy sunny place full of small excursion and fishing boats with nearby outdoor restaurants to choose from. Enjoy watching boats come and go, fishermen mending nets and the passers by.

4. Visit the Saint Euphemia Cathedral

A must-see in Rovinj, this cathedral has a very nice story. The location is on the top so you will have to walk through the old town streets, passing along the nicely decorated homes and streets on your way up. Absolutely stunning, definitely one of the best things to do in Rovinj, Croatia.

5. Enjoy the Main Street

With lots of shops and café, the main street leads to the market with mostly truffles and olive oil sold. It’s a nice, modern paved area with shops on both sides, plenty of places to eat or get some Gelato. Location is right by the harbor and old town. Truly, this is one of the best things to do in Rovinj, Croatia. [/tab][tab]

1. Monte Restaurant

Monte Restaurant is one great place known for its impeccable service and a variety of great tasting menu, which makes it special. Definitely, this has to be one of the best restaurants in Rovinj, Croatia.

2. Rio Bar Restaurant

A quaint and nicely designed restaurant, Rio Bar is a great place serving fine delicate flavored food at reasonable price. Service is even very personal and the location is just perfect, making it one of the best restaurants in Rovinj, Croatia.

3. Barba Danilo Restaurant

Barba Danilo Restaurant is an amazing place with very helpful and attentive staff. Aside from great service, they also serve extraordinary specialties, which makes it as one of the best restaurants in Rovinj, Croatia.

4. Tipico Old Town Restaurant

Tipico Old Town Restaurant offers great tasting Italian food and is well located near the Cathedral. Excellent food and service at very reasonable price, this is definitely one of the best best restaurants in Rovinj, Croatia.

5. La Puntalina

A great dining place well situated near the shoreline, serving only the fresh seafood and fine wine with a relaxed atmosphere to enjoy. It’s a sure romantic place with its location,  perched above the sea with waves lapping gently below, definitely one of the best restaurants in Rovinj, Croatia.[/tab][tab]

1. Hotel Lone – Rovinj, Istria

Rovinj – Lone hotel is special and unique, with a focus on architectural design and well providing guest needs. Every space feels like it has been designed just for you, truly one of the best hotels in Rovinj, Croatia.

Price Range: Double Room from $229

2. Hotel Eden – Rovinj, Istria

A family-friendly hotel in Rovinj, Hotel Eden is well situated just by the sea. The hotel  offers outdoor and indoor pools and free beach chairs and parasols in its own bay, perfect for relaxation!

3. Hotel Park – Rovinj, Istria

The Hotel Park is situated in a stunning Istrian town that stands out for its beauty and historical heritage. Along with 2 restaurants, this hotel has a marina and an indoor pool and buffet breakfast is included! Quite simply, this is one of the best hotels in Rovinj, Croatia.

Price Range: Double Room from $176

4. All Suite Island Hotel Istra – Rovinj, Istria

This hotel features an à-la-carte restaurant, a wellness and spa centre, as well as outdoor and indoor pools, All Suite Island Hotel Istra is located on St. Andrew Island, only a 15-minute boat ride away from the Rovinj’s Old Town. It offers modern suites with a balcony and free Wi-Fi access, all in a setting of pure, secluded paradise!

Price Range: Suite from $362

Travel Guide to Labin in Istria, Croatia

Labin - Two Monkeys Travel - Guide to Istria Croatia

A great city rich in history and culture, Labin is well situated just few kilometers away from sea, on the Eastern part of Istria. This city used to be an important mining Centre in the Kingdom of Italy, which later on turned out to be a struggling part of the city’s history. As a former mining Centre, the city has its own mining museum, located in the Old town, which takes guests back to the mining stories of the past in Labin. This museum contains a model of the actual mine and offers a glimpse of the life of miners. Showcasing the old town, at the top of the hill is fortress Fortica. From there you can enjoy lovely views over Rabac, the sea and the Island of Cres.

1. Visit the Vielle Ville de Labin

Spend a delightful hour exploring the hill top old town portion of Labin. The hill is a well kept, multi-colored, multi-style maze of streets and buildings. Its origins go back to the Roman times, with very interesting history.

2. See the Art Gastro Galerie Im Palast Negri

Have a great time at Palast Negri and try their olive oil, with different kind of fish and cheese, served with the perfect wine. A great olive oil and wine experience, definitely one of the best things to do in Labin, Croatia simply because it involves olives and wine if nothing else!

3. Try Diving the Reef from Rabac

Definitely one of the best things to do in Labin, Istria is to get underwater! Hire a professional diving instructor and explore the wonders of the deep with your friends or family. For non divers, you can relax on the beautiful beach with the use of parasols and easy chairs, or try out various recreational and animation activities for all ages.

4. Visit the Fortress

This fortress at the western edge of town is the highest point in Labin and the views reveal what makes it one of the best things to do in Labin. Upon reaching the top, it unfolds the astounding horizons of the coast, the Učka mountain range and Cres island. [/tab][tab]

1. Velo Kafe Restaurant

Velo Kafe is a hidden gem in Labin, offering excellent food from an open grill and being served by the best and friendly staff. The relaxing atmosphere of this place is a plus, making it one of the best restaurant in Labin, Croatia.

2. Restorant Kvarner Labin Restaurant

Restorant Kvarner Labin is a perfect dining place tucked away from the main square. The restaurant serves top quality Mediterranean food and the view plus the great atmosphere added the perfect factor to make it one of the best restaurants in Labin, Croatia.

3. Due Fratelli Restaurant

Everything is just extraordinary in Due Fratellin Restaurant – the food, the ambiance, and even the service. This place has even a nice outdoor area that guests surely enjoy. You can even look inside to see your fresh fish being cooked in their fire grill. This is definitely one of the best restaurants in Labin, Croatia.

4. Markus Restaurant

Markus Restaurant is a charming place well situated at the top of a hill, offering great choices of good food at very fair prices. This is definitely one of the best restaurants in Labin, Croatia.[/tab][tab]

1. Villa Calussovo

Set on a hill and commanding amazing views over Istria, the blend of traditional and modern luxury make this one of the best hotels in Labin. Property features include concierge services, dry cleaning, and a 24-hour front desk. Free continental breakfast is free, as well as Wifi in public areas. Did we mention that they have their own horse riding school?

Price Range: Double Room from $101.47

2. Villa Venera

A number of activities can be enjoyed in this hotel, including foosball, badminton, archery, volleyball and basketball, as well as various massages, bioenergetic treatments and workshops. Boat excursions and jet ski, car and bicycle rental can also be arranged with here. Truly, this is one of the best hotels in Labin, Croatia.

Price Range: Studio from $145

3. B&B Morena

A very nice and quiet place with a friendly personnel. It’s just a few minutes from the crystal sea of Rabac and Duga Luka. B&b Morena is well situated in old town Labin, a beautiful medieval city full of story. Definitely, this is one of the best hotels in Labin, Croatia.

Price Range: Twin Room from $82

Travel Guide to Rabac in Istria, Croatia

Rabac 1 - Two Monkeys Travel - Guide to Istria Croatia

Rabac is one great holiday destination lying on the Eastern part of Istria. This city has a lot of bars, cafes, villas and restaurants to choose from, making it an ideal getaway. It’s a resort town as they say, which offers tourists some of the nicest beaches in Istria. It’s a great travel destination for families as well, as the city offers entertainment options and organized activities in the town, and resorts for all ages. Some of the things worth trying when you visit Rabac include boat excursion, hiking, mountain biking along the foot of the hill, kayaking, diving and more.

1. Have fun on Girandella beach

One of the best things to do in Rabac, Croatia is to stroll along this pebbly beach along the south eastern part of Istria. It’s a sure perfect holiday destination for the whole family with great facilities and activities being offered. Feel the sea breeze and relax to the wondrous seascape.

2. Try the Movie Lounge Bar

A paradise with the perfect sea view under the trees, serving excellent Mojitos and wide range of drinks. This is the perfect venue for get together with friends. This place has a great ambiance and has some good live music. Definitely, this is one of the best places to visit in Rabac, Croatia.

3. M/S Duboka – Boat Tours

Try this super trip to the Blue Cave and Cres Island at a great value. It’s a nice boat tour, with an authentic and charming atmosphere whilst cruising. A great adventure that you’ll never forget and easily one of the best things to do in Rabac, Croatia.

4. Night out at the Perla

Serving the best cocktails in town, Perla is a great place for people wanting to relax and enjoy a drink with one of the many excellent cocktails that they serve. Coffee is also very good especially in the morning, overlooking the small harbour nearby.

5. Four Elements Art of Adventure

Making the most of the natural surroundings is one of the best things to do in Rabac, so try a kayaking tour, day trip hiking or even snorkeling with Four Elements Art of Adventure. It’s a highly recommended activity, a wonderful way to explore the coastline of Rabac and a way to learn great local knowledge. [/tab][tab]

Pingo 2 Restaurant is a nice place situated on the beach boulevard, serving the best ice cream in town with lots of flavors to choose from. Aside from the best ice cream, the place has a great atmosphere too and great service is provided by the friendly staff and owners, making it one of the best restaurants in Rabac, Croatia.

2. Restoran Vale Vista Rabac Restaurant

If seafood is what you want, then Restoran Vale Vista Rabac it he perfect place for you! Aside from the seafood galore, the place offers a good atmosphere and beautiful view too, making it one of the best restaurants in Rabac, Croatia.

3. Pizza cut fianona Restaurant

Pizza cut fianona is nice little place located just by the beach, known to serve the best sandwiches in Rabac. A restaurant serving fantastic food at reasonable prices, definitely one of the best restaurants in Rabac, Croatia.

4. Ristorante Nostromo Restaurant

Ristorante Nostromo is  an excellent restaurant know for its fresh and delicious food. Excellent service from the highly motivated and fun staff is an added factor, making it one of the best restaurants in Rabac, Croatia. [/tab][tab]

1. Valamar Bellevue Hotel & Residence – Rabac, Istria

Valamar Bellevue Hotel & Residence is a hotel with excellent location, of stunning sea views. It’s a very good and modern hotel offering very good service and value for money, which makes it one of the best hotels in Rabac, Croatia.

Price Range: Twin Room from $189

2. Adoral – Rabac, Istria

Unwind in the stylishly decorated, bright and sophisticated surroundings of Hotel Adoral, which provides superbly equipped accommodation with magnificent sea views in Rabac. The property is very close to the sea yet far enough from the busy and crowded streets of the resort. Design, tranquility and location combined to make Adoral one of the best hotels in Rabac, Croatia.

Price Range: Double Room from $162

Find the best deals on  Booking.com   |  Agoda

3. Hotel Narcis – Rabac, Istria

Hotel Narcis is a 5-minute walk from the beach in one of the most picturesque small villages of the Istrian bays, Rabac. It offers spacious air-conditioned rooms with satellite TV, and along with a restaurant, this hotel has an indoor pool and a fitness center. Everything required to be one of the best hotels in Rabac, Croatia.

Price Range: Double Room from $92

Central Istria

Travel guide to pazin in istria, croatia.

Pazin - Two Monkeys Travel - Guide to Istria Croatia

Pazin is dubbed as the “heart of Istria”, as the city serves as an easy access from most visited tourist centres like Umag and Rovinj. In this laid back city is where you will find the largest and well preserved medieval fort in Istria, the Pazin Castle (Kastel). Pazin is a great base point since the city has buses, trains and roads connecting the town with nearly every Istrian destination. It’s also a great gastronomic destination since the city has many original Istrian taverns and wine cellars. With its rich medieval heritage, it is also a good choice for one-day excursions from the coast to the Green Istria.

1. Try the Zip Line Pazinska Jama

A stunning panorama on Pazin abyss and an amazing experience! Tour guides are amazing, making sure everything goes smoothly, and shows beauty and details of the abyss on your way to the zip lining. This is definitely one of the best things to do in Pazin, Croatia for anyone who loves to enjoy nature and get a bit of a rush at the same time!

2. See the Pazin Chasm

The medieval castle is well maintained and inside an interesting ethnological museum. The chasm is fantastic, you can see it partially from the castle, on a second side from a bridge, by going down to the river, and faster from the zip wire. This wonder of nature can be seen from all angles, definitely one of the best things to do in Pazin, Croatia.

3. Visit the Church of St. Mary of Skriljine

A small medieval church with beautiful frescos from the 15th century. The most beautiful part is located on the inside of the wall above the entrance, and when leaving the church, lift up the view, on the wall just above the door is the beautiful watching image of Jesus.

4. Try the Abyss of Pazin

This is truly a remarkable exploration and one of the best things to do in Pazin, Croatia! Inside you can find hidden treasures, prehistoric little creatures and extreme darkness. You’ll have to climb rocks, ride zip lines and cross rivers.  Totally recommended for adventurers!

5. Visit the Buffet Bunker

True gem off the beaten track, Buffet Bunker is a little café in downtown Pazin. Take your time to enjoy silence on a nice little terrace, with the best coffee in Istria. Truly, this is one of the best things to do in Pazin, Croatia.[/tab][tab]

1. Konoba Vela Vrata Restaurant

Konoba Vela Vrata is a very good restaurant serving traditionally Istrian food, and even homemade pasta. Aside from great food, service here is excellent too and the prices are reasonable, making it one of the best restaurants in Pazin, Croatia.

2. Agroturizam Ograde Restaurant

The food here is delicious and the place is romantic. There are lots of farm animals so the small children can see real animals in here as well. Excellent food, very nice people, a combination which makes it one of the best restaurants in Pazin, Croatia.

3. Peperone Restaurant

Peperone is an ideal place for great food plus relaxation. They serve fresh and local food, all at reasonable prices. Service is even flexible, making it one of the best restaurants in Pazin, Croatia.

4. Rotonda Restaurant

Rotonda Restaurant is a place well located in the calm portion of the center of Istria. Aside from good food, great atmosphere from the locals is an added factor making it one of the best restaurants in Pazin, Croatia.[/tab][tab]

1. Apartments Zarečki Krov – Pazin, Istria

Located in Zarečje near Pazin, Apartments Zarečki Krov offers a large green garden with a common terrace, a children’s playground and free-to-use barbecue facilities. All apartments are air-conditioned and offer a furnished terrace with a garden view, all you need from a hotel in Pazin, Istria!

Price Range: Two-Bedroom Apartment from $79

2. Resort Čiže- Pazin, Istria

Situated in Pazin, Istria 43 km from Trieste, Resort Čiže features an outdoor pool and views of the mountains. This seasonal outdoor pool and spectacular views of the surrounding countryside make this one of the best hotels in Pazin!

Price Range: Twin / Double Room from $107

Travel Guide to Zminj in Istria, Croatia

zminj - Two Monkeys Travel - Guide to Istria

Zminj is a small town of Croatia and known to be the centre of Istria and old intersection, offering magnificent landscapes and remains of its history. The natural beauty of its landscapes serve as a great spot for hiking and even cycling tours. The city is a great escape for travelers looking a less tourist driven place and to those who want to experience a real authentic Istrian experience.

1. Festinsko Kraljevstvo

The whole cave tour lasts for about 20 minutes and is possible to do with younger kids as well. The cave interior is really beautiful and amazing. The guide is very knowledgeable and tells a lot about the geology of the cave systems in a fun and entertaining way. Highly recommended, especially for families, definitely one of the best things to do in Zminj, Croatia.

2. Crkva Majke Bozje od Svetomora 

Romanesque bell tower and beautiful angels, this church is located along the road between Svetvincenat and Zminj. In front of the church is a beautiful 18 meter high Romanesque bell tower. There are human figures on the porch of the church which are the work of local artisans from Žminj. Picturesquely in the landscape, real eye catcher, definitely one of the best things to do in Zminj, Croatia.

3. Visit the Churches of Holy Trinity, and St.Foška

Holy Trinity is a small church in Zminj with beautiful frescoes painted way back 15th century. St. Anthony is an equally beautiful church built in the 14th century with Glagolitic graffiti to be found inside. St.Foška was built in the 9th century with a statue of the saint Calvary – added in the 18th century. A visit to these architectural gems, definitely one of the best things to do in Zminj, Croatia.

1. Konoba Puli Pineta Restaurant

Konoba Puli Pineta is a cozy little place located close to the town Centre of Zminj, with great interiors, of simple furniture and a nice fireplace. Quality here is top notch and the staff accommodates guests very well, making it one of the best restaurants in Zminj, Croatia.

2.  Pizzeria Orhideja Restaurant

Pizzeria Orhideja is well known for the tastiest pizza that they serve in town. Incredible crust, great taste, at a very reasonable price, truly one of the best restaurants in Zminj, Croatia.

3. Pod Ladonjon Restaurant

Pod Ladonjon Restaurant is a secret surprise the town of Zminj serving the best Istrian bean soup and fuzi with truffles, perfect for rainy days. The friendly service of the staff is an added factor too, making it one of the best restaurants in Zminj, Croatia.

4. OPG Agroturizam Familija Ferlin Restaurant

OPG Agroturizam Familiha Ferlin is a unique place serving as a quality example of agritourism in Istria. This restaurant has a familial atmosphere and has the best staff serving guests. Food is fantastic too, making it one of the best restaurants in Zminj, Croatia.

1. Holiday Home Marta – Zminj, Istria

Located in Žminj’s Old Town, Holiday Home Marta is a restored Istrian-style house with a stone roof and rustic-style décor. This 2-bedroom property offers heating and air conditioning. Definitely one of the best hotels in Zmunj, Croatia.

Price Range: Holiday Home from $99

2. Villa Murva – Zminj, Istria

Featuring a 2000 m² garden and a sun terrace with heated outdoor swimming pool, Villa Murva is set in a traditional Istrian stone house in village Gradišće, 3.5 km from Žminj. The interior is air-conditioned and comprises a spacious living room with a fireplace, leather sofa seating and plasma satellite TV with home cinema system. Truly, this is one of the best hotels in Zminj, Croatia.

Price Range: Five-Bedroom Villa with Private Pool from $750

3. Holiday Home Stancia Cicada – Zminj, Istria

Offering an outdoor pool and a sun terrace with sun loungers, Guesthouse Stancia Cicada is set in a restored stone-walled farmhouse located in quiet surroundings in Žminj. A number of natural caves can be explored in the surroundings of the property too. Truly, this is one of the best hotels in Zminj, Croatia.

Price Range: Triple Room from $124

Travel Guide to Motovun in Istria, Croatia

Motovun - Two Monkeys Travel - Guide to Istria Croatia

Motovun, or Motovun-Montona, is located at the northern part of Istria, overlooking the Mirna river valley. This city is pretty close to the most visited tourist cities of the Adriatic, Porec, Rovinj and Umag. It’s also the perfect destination for tourists seeking for excursions. For ballooning lovers, this city can also be a great option since the favorable microclimate of the city enables flying in balloons all year round, making Motovun-Montona hosts several ballooning events. The city forest is also rich in truffles, an strong-smelling fungus considered as a culinary delicacy and can be found with the aid of dogs or pigs.

1. See the Hilltop Walled Ancient City of Motovun

Once at the top, you will not be disappointed with the views and stunning atmosphere of this place. Take a walk around the ancient walls and just soak up the atmosphere. Truly, this is one of the best things to do in Motovun, Croatia.

2. Try Paragliding Tandem Istra

Try this unreal experience, paragliding! Tour instructor is very knowledgeable and professional. The chat before taking off with helps in clearing all the doubts and ease the nerves. Excellent experience, definitely one of the best things to do in Motovun, Croatia.

3. See the Ancient City Walls

If looking for something a bit off the beaten path, then visit Motovun. Spend a day at the outdoor café sipping a cappuccino while taking in the wondrous view of the valley below. This is a quaint little place with a breathtaking site. This is the best place to view all the natural beauty surrounding Motovun, definitely one of the best things to do in Motovun, Croatia.

4. Try Truffle Hunting

Learn about the whole business of truffle hunting – how the dogs are trained and all about the area. Enjoy the experience and gain a real insight into professional truffle hunting. Truly, this is one of the best things to do in Motovun, Croatia.

5. See the Bell Tower

This bell tower is located beside the main square of Motovun, a small hillside town in the Istria section of Croatia. It’s a nice place to visit with beautiful stony streets, very old buildings, high walls, tasty food around and very unique footpaths. This is definitely one of the best things to do in Motovun, Croatia.

1. Konoba Mondo Restaurant

If truffles are your thing, then Konoba Mondo is the right place for your. This restaurant offers great atmosphere, great food presentation, and even an excellent service, making it one of the best restaurants in Motovun, Croatia.

2. Pod Napun Restaurant

Pod Napun is a hidden gem of Motovun, serving delicious truffle infused food. The service is even great and the views from the restaurant, across the stunning valley, is a plus, making it one of the best restaurants in Motovun, Croatia.

3. Hotel Kastel Restaurant

Hotel Kastel restaurant is a lovely place offering magnificent views over the Istrian countryside. Aside from the location, they also serve excellent food, the best truffles and even local wines. Service is great too, making it one of the best restaurants in Motovun, Croatia.

4. Pod Voltom Restaurant

If you want to have amazing food and the best truffles for your money, this is the place to visit. Pod Voltom is a cozy konoba offering a relaxed atmosphere, nice view and the best service, making it one of the best restaurants in Motovun, Croatia.

1. Provvidenza – Motovun, Istria

This property features a garden with a sun terrace. Provvidenza is a detached villa located in Motovun boasting views of the garden. Definitely, this is one of the best villas in Motovun, Croatia.

Price Range: Villa from $12

2. Houses of Motovun – Motovun, Istria

Situated in Motovun in Istria, Houses of Motovun is a traditional istrian stone house with wooden floors, built in the 1900s, approximately 20 km away from the Adriatic Sea. It features en-suite rooms with work desks, wooden floors and free Wi-Fi.  Definitely one of the best hotels in Motovun, Croatia.

Price Range: Double Room from $85

3. Guest House Valentino – Motovun, Istria

Guest House Valentino features a large garden with an outdoor swimming pool and barbecue facilities, Guest House Valentino is located 3.5 km from the picturesque town of Motovun. It is surrounded by vineyards and greenery, and offers air-conditioned rooms with satellite TV and free Wi-Fi. Definitely one of the best hotels in Motovun, Croatia.

Price Range: Double Room from $45

Travel Guide to Rezanci in Istria, Croatia

Reznci is a village of Istria County located between Pula and Pazin. The way of living for most people here includes agricultural and animal husbandry. One way to enjoy Rezanci is to pay a visit to its museum-gallery called “The Hill”, displaying wood artworks as well as canvas paintings.

1. Visit “The Hill”

A museum-gallery with displayed wood artworks that exposes Josip Bilic Gaspar. It also has great canvas paintings that work Draženka ducklings. It also has lots of old tools used by the natives of the village of Reznci.

1. Villas Adagio – Reznci, Istria

Villas Adagio is a complex of luxurious villas set in a peaceful area, 6.6 km away from Reznci. Each villa offers its own private swimming pool surrounded by sun loungers and parasols. Truly one of the best accommodation in Croatia.

Price Range: Superior Three-Bedroom Villa with Private Pool from $146

2. Villa Murva – Reznci, Istria

8.3 km away from Reznci, Villa Murva is a great property with air-con interior and comprises a super spacious living room with fireplace. It also has a garden fitted with a seating area, a gazebo and table football and darts. Definitely one of the best accommodations in Croatia.

3. Hotel La Grisa – Reznci, Istria

Hotel La Grisa, 9.5 km away from Reznci, is well situated on the beach and close from the Holy Trinity Church. Its features include  a restaurant, a nightclub, and a bar/lounge plus free buffet breakfast, free WiFi in public areas, and free self parking. Truly one of the best accommodation in Croatia.

Price Range: Double Room from $90

Travel Guide to Buzet in Istria, Croatia

Buzet - Two Monkeys Travel - Guide to Istria Croatia

Buzet, another town in Istria lying in the northern part of the county is known to be the ‘Istrian Truffle Capital’. Aside from truffle hunting and eating, best way to enjoy this town is to take a walk along the narrow streets and squares. It is also in Buzet where the off the beaten track destination can be found, like the Vrh, famous for its sparkling wine. Rich in vineyards, this place also has olive trees cultivated and even olive mills.

1. Truffle hunting – Karlic Tartufi

Karlic Tartufi is a must if you are traveling to Croatia or surrounding areas. From the most delicious food, to hunting in the forest for truffles – this experience is something you shouldn’t miss! Definitely one of the best things to do in Buzet, Croatia.

2. See the town of Hum

The town is interesting given it is supposedly the smallest city in the world. It is worth a stop and there are amazing views of the countryside. There are many historic features in this small place but the highlight is the Konoba(restaurant) packed every day and serving delicious family food from the region. Truly one of the best things to don in Buzet, Croatia.

3. Aura Distillery

This place makes a variety of brandies along with some jams and chocolate. The whole interior is exquisite and the staff is welcoming. Try all the rakias and of course, buy some of them because you won’t find such tasty liquors anywhere. Definitely one of the best things to do in Buzet, Croatia.

4. Try Gral Putovanja – Day Tours

Witness breathtaking views of Istria and the beautiful sunset during the evening ride, a unique experience and viewpoint which no any other tours would be able to rival. The team is extremely passionate about hot air ballooning and is constantly engaging tourist throughout. Definitely one of the best things to do in Buzet, Croatia.

5. Drop by at Natura tartufi

If looking for a variety of truffle products, then you should go and drop by at Natura tartufi. Prices are reasonable, definitely a nice surprise, and one of the best things to do in Buzet, Croatia.

1. Konoba Vrh Restaurant

Konoba Vrh is a nice dining place serving traditional Istrian food at very affordable price. Every dish has a superb taste due to the amount of truffles that they use. Aside from great food, the wonderful atmosphere and excellent service make this place one of the best restaurants in Buzet, Croatia.

2. Konoba Most Restaurant

Konoba Most Restaurant is a simple yet nice family restaurant serving real good Istrian food. Aside from the delicious food and wine that they serve, it is the friendly atmosphere that makes this place one of the best restaurants in Buzet, Croatia.

3. Restaurant Old River

The restaurant is situated in the beautiful valleys, although roadside, its terraces back on to the fresh gardens and to the river edge. The truffles are to die for and they compliment every dish on the menu. Truly, this is one of the best restaurants in Buzet, Croatia.

4. Agroturizam Mlini Restaurant

Agroturizam Mlini is a farm house serving absolutely tasty, fresh and organic specialties. Real good food and nice experience, that’s what makes this place one of the best restaurants in Buzet, Croatia.

1. Hotel Fontana – Buzet, Istria

Hotel Fontana is on Fontana Square in the Centre of Buzet in Istria, offering air-conditioned rooms with minibars, free Wi-Fi in public areas and free parking.  The hotel’s à la carte restaurant serves local cuisine with truffle specialties, accompanied by fine Istrian wines. Definitely one of the best hotels in Buzet, Croatia.

Price Range: Twin / Double Room from $75

2. Apartmani Xenia & Desiderio – Buzet, Istria

Set in a quiet area in Buzet, Apartment Xenia offers a modern self-catering accommodation unit with free WiFi, a terrace and access to a garden with barbecue facilities. It’s a newly renovated property apartment, elegantly furnished and comes with a well-equipped kitchen, a flat-screen TV and a living area with a sofa. Truly one of the best accommodation in Buzet, Croatia.

Price Range: Apartment from $45

3. Vela Sterna B&B – Buzet, Istria

A hotel with rooms having seating area to relax in after a busy day. Some units have a wonderful garden view too. Truly, this is one of the best accommodation in Buzet, Croatia.

Price Range: Double or Twin Room with terrace from $61

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2 thoughts on “ The Ultimate Travel Guide to Istria, Croatia #shareistria @shareistria ”

WOW! A really great article! Thanks for sharing all these information =)

Very kind regards from Patricia

This is such an incredible guide and does this amazing place justice- I love your tips, and the photos are absolutely stunning!

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Written by Kach Umandap

Founder of Two Monkeys Travel Group. Since 2013, Kach has visited all the 7 continents (including Antarctica) and 151 countries using her Philippines Passport. In 2016, she bought a sailboat and went on sailing adventures with her two cats - Captain Ahab & Little Zissou in the Caribbean for 2 years. She now lives in Herceg Novi, Montenegro where she's enjoying her expat life and living on a gorgeous Stonehouse. She writes about her experiences traveling as a Filipina traveler with a PHL Passport. Also tips on backpacking trips, luxury hotel experiences, product reviews, sailing & adventure travel.

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ula Arena, a Roman amphitheatre that still hosts events today.

How to spend a weekend in Istria, Croatia's heart-shaped peninsula

Plunging into the Adriatic, Croatia’s northeastern peninsula is a quiet retreat from the region’s bustling hotspots, with secluded coastal hideaways, limestone peaks and spectacular ancient history.

Istria isn’t the sort of place that likes to interrupt. Stand on the shore anywhere between Fažana and Umag, as the sea laps the shingle and families chatter quietly, and you’ll understand: a 60-mile-long peninsula that juts down, like the lower half of a diamond, below Slovenia and the northeastern corner of Italy, this is Croatia at its unhurried best. True, there are towns — and one city, Pula — dotted along its west coast, where the Adriatic meets the shore under the shadow of chic hotels. But venture inland, and the region reveals its rustic heart, one where wineries and truffle farms are tucked into the landscape, mountains rising up silently on the horizon. With life moving at a gentle pace, Istria is easily explored. Thanks to excellent roads, you can drive from the bottom to the top of the peninsula in an hour, which means more time to absorb its most captivating qualities — from quiet coves to Roman ruins and restaurant terraces — without ever feeling in a rush.

Day one: seafront towns and beaches

Morning Base yourself in Poreč, the west coast town that’s thrived on its natural harbour for the best part of three millennia. The historical highlight is the Euphrasian Basilica — a sixth-century feast of mosaics and piety that was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1997. The core of the town, squeezed onto a narrow peninsula of its own, spreads out in the shadow of this celebrated church, and the seafront promenade of Obala Maršala Tita is perfect for a leisurely wander. Don’t miss the main square, Trg Marafor, which was once the Roman Forum; the ‘Romanesque House’ on it dates to the 13th century.

Afternoon Head to the beach. Generally, things are less busy the further south you go: you might not meet another sunbather if you aim for Marić Beach, just beyond the village of Barbariga. Elsewhere, Stella Maris Beach, in northerly Umag, is something of a local hotspot attracting the area’s families, who come for the calm, sheltered lagoon and loungers on the shingle. If you’re looking for a more secluded spot, go further north still, to the uppermost edge of the peninsula, where Kanegra Beach barely emerges from the trees. The view is international: Portorož, on the opposite edge of the bay, is in Slovenia.

Evening Rovinj is arguably Istria’s postcard statement; pinned to a bluff that sticks out into the Adriatic with narrow, slanted streets and houses steeping above passersby. All routes lead upwards, to the 18th-century Church of St Euphemia, which has a baroque facade that’s so striking it competes with the wider panorama of orange rooftops and the coast stretching out in each direction. Have dinner at La Puntulina , an elegant spot serving wonderfully fresh seafood. Alternatively, if you’ve retreated to Poreč, Restaurant Marconi has an outdoor seating area in a courtyard behind the basilica.

Drinks on a terrace in Rovinj old town.

Day two: islands and mountains

Morning Hop on a ferry and head two miles off the coast to the Brijuni Islands , a national park since 1983. Veliki Brijun is the largest of the 14 outcrops – hire a bike at the dock and pedal up to the remarkable Brijuni Cretaceous Park, at the north-west end of the island. It preserves a series of dinosaur footprints, fossilised in the rocks along the water. No less wonderful is Verige Bay, a horseshoe inlet where you can paddle in the shadows of a first-century (BC) Roman villa. Ferries depart from Fazana, five miles north of Pula, roughly every 90 minutes in daylight hours.

Afternoon Once back on the mainland, delve into the Istrian interior: a gloriously mountainous backdrop to the glittering coast. In its northeast corner, the drive from Pula up through the limestone summits of the Učka range is dramatic, rising steadily through Pazin and Lupoglav past some of the region’s most spectacular scenery. Učka Nature Park was one of the first projects by the Croatia that emerged from former Yugoslavia; inaugurated in 1999, it has miles of forested slopes and hiking trails — one of which winds all the way to the top of Vojak, the highest peak at 4,580ft.

Evening Don’t dash back west just yet; instead, follow the road as it coils down to the peninsula’s east coast, where various villages illuminate the waterline. Mošćenička Draga is one of them, with a pebbly beach and a clutch of restaurants including Konoba Zijavica, where the likes of tuna tartare are served at tables right next to the shingle. To the north, the village of Lovran is equally attractive, its maze of alleys dominated by the butter-yellow tower of the Church of St George. If time is on your side, there are plenty of good hotels, parks and bustling restaurants to visit.

Three more Pula attractions

With a population of just 58,000, the only city in Istria packs a lot into its small size and has plenty to keep visitors entertained for an afternoon.

1. Pula Arena There’s a significant strand of Italian to Istria’s genetics — the peninsula was part of Italy from 1920 to 1947, something that’s reflected in many towns having dual names (Pula is also known as ‘Pola’). But the city’s Italianate connections go back even further. The spectacular Roman arena, which dates to the first century, is one of the best examples of an amphitheatre outside Rome and retains much of the visual power it must have had when its 23,000 seats were packed for gladiatorial fight. It still stages big events today, including summer screenings at the long-running Pula Film Festival . With a population of just 58,000, the only city in Istria packs a lot into its small size and has plenty to keep visitors entertained for an afternoon.

2. The Venetian Fortress There are more Italian footprints all across Pula. The Kaštel fortress is the centrepiece of the city and was built by the Venetians between 1630 and 1633. It’s a distinctive shape, with a square stronghold sharpened by spear tip towers at each corner, and a stroll around the fortifications is a must. But if it’s more glimpses of the city’s Roman past you’re looking for, then head to the Trg Forum square, where, on the western edge, stand the six symmetrical Corinthian columns of the Temple of Augustus, which is the same age as the amphitheatre. Also a short walk away is the grand Arch of the Sergii.

3. Contemporary Pula For all the richness of the city’s heritage, 21st-century Pula is easy to discover. Case in point is the Museum of Contemporary Art of Istria , with its rotating exhibitions of Croatian photography, film and sculpture. One block over, the Museum of Olive Oil burrows into the rituals of the region’s most eulogised agricultural product with tastings of the amber nectar also on offer. Round off a visit with a hearty lunch at Meating, on the harbourside strip of Riva Ulica — a welcoming restaurant that, as its name suggests, leans heavily on steaks served in a sleek, modern sitting. T: 00 385 98 182 3607

The seaside town of Rovinj, overlooking the Adriatic

Istria's best   fine-dining restaurants

Plavi Podrum Istria has a growing reputation for top-level cuisine. Its high standards are best savoured at this little spot, semi-hidden in the fishing village of Volosko, near Opatija, where sweet slivers of scampi carpaccio are paired with local wines.  

San Rocco If you didn’t know it was here, you wouldn’t notice this chic spa-hotel. It waits in the unassuming village of Brtonigla, five miles inland from Novigrad. But as well as 14 rooms, the hotel comes with a restaurant that revels in tasting menus and seasonal ingredients.

Meneghetti Another rural hideaway, near Bale, southwest of Rovinj, Meneghetti spoils diners with delicacies like monkfish tail in bisque foam. It also has a private beach club, hidden at the end of a trail through its vineyards.  

Monte High up in Rovinj’s old town, Monte made Croatian headlines in 2017 when it was hailed as ‘spectacular, almost theatrical in its presentation’ by Michelin, which awarded it the country’s first star. Run by chef Danijel Đekić, it’s feted for its suckling pig.  

Restaurant Badi Folded into the fields on the edge of Lovrečica on the coast, Restaurant Badi speaks proudly of its wine list, which incorporates Italian and Istrian vintages, as well as its traditional Croatian buzara (seafood stew), and hearty homemade pasta with regional truffles.

Three gourmet experiences to try

1. Kozlovic Croatia’s wine industry has been growing in stature for a number of years, with Istria playing its part. This respected producer, located up at Momjan in the north of the peninsula, is open for tasting sessions.

2. Prodan Tartufi Istria’s fertile soil is widely known for its truffles. Prodan Tartufi is a family-run farm in idyllic Buzet, where guests can join the guides and dogs on hunts for the revered gastro gold.

3. Aura Also in Buzet, Aura stiffens sinews by distilling a range of brandies flavoured with local fruits and herbs. Try before you buy and sample one of the blends distilled with cherries, wild apples or even olives.

How to do it

Various airlines fly direct to Pula from airports across the UK, mostly during the summer holiday season. Pula Airport hosts the usual range of hire car companies.

Published in the May 2021 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK)

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Wander-Lush

Best Places to Visit in Istria: 8 Charming Towns & Nature Spots for Your Croatian Istria Itinerary

Experience the beauty of Croatia’s Adriatic coastline and green heart. Here are 8 beautiful places in Istria – from fishing villages to ancient Roman ruins, clear water bays to olive groves.

About the authors: Maya and Sari of Chasing Lenscapes are two sisters with a passion for travel, photography, culture and food.

Croatia has so many beautiful places to visit , but on our last trip, we discovered a hidden gem: The Istrian Peninsula.

During our Croatian trip, we spent a few days in Istria after visiting the Dalmatian Coast. We quickly fell in love with the beautiful area and unique atmosphere.

Istria county is still a relatively unknown destination, but this is going to change in the coming years.

Generally speaking, Istria can be divided into two regions: Blue Istria and Green Istria. Blue Istria, along the coast, is where you’ll find colourful fishing villages, charming islands and rocky beaches.

The central part of Istria is referred to as Green Istria. Here you’ll find picturesque medieval towns perched on cliffs, wineries , olive groves and truffle-filled forests.

During winter , the interior remains temperate, making Istria a year-round destination.

Here are 8 of the most beautiful places in Istria and unique things to do there , from stunning bays to the best towns!

Please note: This post contains affiliate links, meaning I may earn a commission if you make a purchase by clicking a link (at no extra cost to you). Learn more.

The best places to visit in Istria, Croatia.

Croatia essentials

Here are my favourite resources to help you organise your trip to Croatia.

FLIGHTS: Find affordable flights to Croatia on Skyscanner .

TRAVEL INSURANCE: Insure your trip with HeyMondo , my preferred provider for single-trip and annual travel insurance. Get 5% off when you use my link.

CAR HIRE: Use Local Rent to hire a budget-friendly car from a local agent (prices start from 30€/day) or jump on the Discover Cars website to hire a car through an international company.

ACCOMMODATION: Find the best hotel and apartment deals on Booking.com , the most popular booking platform in Croatia.

TOP-RATED CROATIA DAY TRIP: Five Island Speedboat Tour Featuring the Blue Cave and Hvar from Split (book through Viator).

How to get to the Istrian Peninsula

The heart-shaped Istrian peninsula is located in the north-west part of the Adriatic Sea, in the westernmost part of Croatia. It shares a border with Slovenia and a maritime border with Italy.

You can catch a flight, a bus or rent a car to get to Istria from Zagreb or any other major city in Croatia and the neighbouring countries . There are also direct ferries from Venice in Italy and Zadar in Croatia.

Getting around Istria

The easiest way to get around Istria is by hiring your own car and self-driving. Pula is an ideal place to rent a car and start your Istria road trip .

Use Discover Cars to compare prices on car rentals .

Best places to visit in Istria: Blue Istria

A colourful Rovinj Old Town with flowers on every balcony.

Rovinj stole our heart from the get-go. From the minute we started exploring its cobbled alleys and beautiful harbour, we couldn’t get enough of the colourful houses, cute boutiques, stunning viewpoints and general Croatian-Italian charm.

Rovinj is located in the centre of Istria’s west coast, and it’s this central location combined with the charming atmosphere that has turned Rovinj into such a popular destination.

Things to do in Rovinj

Explore Rovinj Old Town: The old town of Rovinj used to be an island, and it’s now one of the most charming places in Croatia. Wandering through Rovinj’s winding cobbled alleys, you’ll see ancient churches and colourful houses stacked upon each other.

There are cute boutiques and specialty food stores where you can buy Istrian olive oil, cheese and truffles. Look for the viewpoints to the Adriatic Sea and stop for a rest at one of the seafront bars.

Related: Incredible culinary traditions from Croatia and around the world.

Visit Rovinj Marina and Punta Corrente: Don’t forget to explore Rovinj Marina where you’ll find rows of boats set against a backdrop of colourful houses, seafood restaurants and ice cream parlours. It’s also a great viewpoint to photograph Rovinj Old Town.

You can walk along the promenade all the way to Punta Corrente where you’ll find scenic beaches, hiking trails and beautiful coves.

Where to eat and stay in Rovinj

Rovinj is one of the best towns in Istria for foodies at heart since it also has an excellent selection of restaurants to choose from. We especially loved the charming La Puntulina , which offers delicious and beautifully-plated dishes with the views of the Adriatic Sea.

We stayed at Residence Rovinj , which is located within walking distance of Rovinj Old Town and has private parking. If you prefer staying in the middle of the old town, check out Hotel Adriatic or The Melegran .

A stone amphitheatre in Istria, Croatia.

Pula is the largest city in Istria and where the international airport is located. Pula is best known for its Roman Arena, which dates back to first century. But there are other fun attractions in the area as well.

Things to do in Pula

Go Treasure Hunting in the Historic Centre: After admiring the impressive Roman Arena, you should explore the historic centre of Pula where you’ll find many more historical monuments. Check out Pula’s Roman forum which used to include three temples.

Nowadays you can only visit the Temple of Augustus, the only temple to survive the turmoil of time. The Golden Gate or Arch of Sergii is another famous ancient monument you should visit, but there are so many other ancient monuments and historical treasure all around Pula’s old town.

Admire the View from Fort Kaštel: To catch the best view of the area, climb up to Fort Kaštel, a beautiful Venetian Castle located on a hill in the middle of the old town. The castle dates back to the early 17th century, and it has a unique design.

The centre of Fort Kaštel has a rectangular shape and around it, you’ll find four towers. Historically it was an important defensive point for the Venetians (like Kotor and Perast ) and nowadays, it’s a lovely viewpoint which overlooks the whole area.

Related: How to travel between Rovinj and Pula by bus .

A sea of orange rooftops in Istria, Croatia.

Poreč is another picturesque town in Istria you must add to your bucket list. Just like Rovinj, Poreč’s central location makes it one of the most popular tourist destinations along the Istrian coast. This beautiful town offers a mixture of attractions that appeal to history, nature and beach lovers.

Things to do in Poreč

Get Lost in the Old Town: Poreč has a long and rich history so you should definitely start your visit by exploring its historic centre. Other than the usual cobbled alleys, crumbling walls, colourful laundry lines and beautiful squares, you’ll also find Romanesque and Gothic architecture, baroque palaces, ancient towers, and interesting galleries and museums.

Visit the famous UNESCO Site: . Don’t forget to stop by the Euphrasian Basilica, which combines classical and Byzantine elements and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The basilica, which was built during the 6th century, contains remnants from the 4th century since it was built on top of a previous church. Art and history lovers would love the beautiful architecture, intricate decorations and the mosaics that can be found inside.

Where to Stay in Poreč

If you’d like to stay longer in Poreč, Valamar Riviera Hotel & Residence has a great location and excellent reviews.

4. Lim Fjord

A bay with a rocky coastline.

Lim Fjord is one of the top natural wonders of Croatia and it’s undoubtedly one of the most beautiful places in Istria. Lim Bay is not really a fjord, but a 10-kilometre-long estuary which is part of the Lim Valley. It reaches a few hundred meters in its widest part and on both sides of the bay you’ll find high walls covered by lush vegetation.

The best way to explore the bay is on the water. During the season, you can hop on one of the many boats and sail along the bay. There is also a small beach, a few restaurants and a little oyster shack since the bay is a great habitat for many fish species, mussels and oysters.

Since Lim Bay is located just north of Rovinj, you can visit by hopping on one of the tour boats from Rovinj or take your car and enjoy the beautiful viewpoints along the road.

5. Duga Uvala

A bay crowded with boats.

If you’re looking for one of the most beautiful places in Istria, you should visit Duga Uvala, one of the four beautiful coves of the rugged Vinjole bay.

Duga Uvala is located in the southeastern part of the Istrian peninsula, about an hour away from Motovun and 30 minutes from Pula. If you love beautiful coves, crystal clear water and laidback atmosphere, you’ll love Duga Uvala.

There isn’t much to do around but enjoy the beautiful scenery and swim in the bay. We were looking for some peace and quiet, so we strolled along the path and chose one of the private rocky beaches. There were steps along the way leading to the crystal-clear water.

There are a few simple bars and restaurants in the area and a few accommodation options if you wish to stay longer.

Beautiful places in Istria: Green Istria

6. motovun, a must-visit place in istria.

A beautiful white city and fortified castle atop a green hill in Istria, Croatia.

Motovun is probably the most iconic town in Istria. You’ve likely already seen photos of this beautiful village. This historic town is perched on a cliff and overlooks vineyards, olive groves and agricultural land. You really can’t visit Istria without spending some time in Motovun.

Things to Do in Motovun

Explore the Historical Monuments: Motovun is one of the best towns in Istria for history lovers. Motovun started as a Roman city, Kastelijer, and was later conquered by the Venetians. A stroll through the town will take you back to those ancient times, and you’ll discover many old gates, towers and defensive walls.

Similar to other Croatian towns and Slovenian coastal towns such as Piran , there’s a mixture of architectural influences and styles. You’ll find buildings and churches with Roman, Renaissance and Gothic elements.

Try wine tasting or truffle hunting: On your way to Motovun, don’t forget to stop at one of the many wineries in the area. You can even go truffle hunting during the season since Motovun forest is known as one of the best areas for Istrian truffles.

Where to Stay in Motovun

If you’d like to extend your stay in Motovun, you’ll find many apartments available to rent. There is only one hotel in town, Boutique Hotel Kastel .

7. Oprtalj, a hidden gem in Istria

A bright yellow building.

Not many people have heard about Oprtalj, but this tiny village is a true hidden gem that is located very close to Motovun. To be honest, there isn’t much to do in Oprtalj but to admire its sheer quaint beauty.

It’s one of those places where you stroll around the semi-abandoned alleys and feel as if you are on a movie set, waiting for the knights to enter the town’s gate.

The town sits on a hill and has breathtaking views. The small historic centre is charming, and so are the unbelievable views from the red-coloured Venetian Loggia.

Where to Stay in Oprtalj

Although there isn’t much to do around but admire the unbelievable view and eat amazing truffle pasta, we actually spent two nights here in the charming B&B Palazzo Angelica and loved the quiet atmosphere.

8. Grožnjan

Stone walls and coloured doors in a small town, one of the most beautiful places in Istria.

Grožnjan is located within a short driving distance from Oprtalj and Motovun. It has some stunning views of its own, but the main reason to visit this quiet village is for its unique shops and beautiful houses.

Things to do in Grožnjan

Explore the winding alleys: Take a walk through the winding alleys of Grožnjan and discover some of its unique shops and medieval houses. Many Croatian artists have chosen to live here and a stroll through the picturesque streets will reveal many creative displays.

Look for unique souvenirs: Grožnjan is one of the best towns in Istria for souvenir shopping , since you’ll find many artistic shops with jewellery and knick-knacks you won’t see elsewhere.  

Have a light breakfast/lunch with a view . We enjoyed a lovely breakfast at Mama Maria Café which overlooks stunning views. Other than the fantastic cappuccino, we had a fabulous cheese platter and freshly baked bread.

Where to stay in Grožnjan

If you wish to stay in the area, there are several apartments you can rent , but currently, there is no hotel in town.

More Croatia inspiration

  • Guide to Rovinj and Pula , highlights of Croatian Istria on the fly
  • 30+ things to do in Croatia , the ultimate wish list
  • Where to go in Croatia in winter , visiting in the off season
  • Guide to Sibenik and the Krka waterfalls
  • Things to do in Zagreb , Croatia’s capital city in the off season
  • 30 must-visit places in Croatia , from beaches to old towns
  • How to plan the perfect Balkan road trip – itineraries for Croatia and beyond
  • View all my guides to the Balkan countries

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Istria, Croatia's reclusive north coast

By Rick Jordan

Istria Croatia An insider's guide

Getting to Istria took me a while. I first came to what was then Yugoslavia in the late 1980s, stumbling off the train in Zagreb, travelling by bus to the coast to have my sleeves plucked by short grandmothers in crow-black cowls who offered bedrooms for a fiver, waking after midday to force down grainy, hours-cold coffee. After the conflict I went back, first to Dubrovnik , eating fried sardines beneath the city walls with fishermen pleased to see visitors returning, then hopping between Korcˇula, Hvar and Vis, and the scattershot islands around them – the dots that inspired the Romans to christen spotted hunting dogs as Dalmatians. I hiked poppy-lit tracks to cliff-top churches, watched lightning storms crackle out at sea. But more recently, I’ve been drawn north to Rovinj, a coastal citadel that’s nobody’s secret, really, but seems off-radar to those who gravitate to overcrowded Dubrovnik; slip away by boat or bicycle and you can have a cove to yourself, even in August , and in autumn it’s still warm enough to leap straight off a rock into the sea.

Rovinj is in Istria, the peninsula that dangles like a bunch of grapes at the top of the Adriatic opposite Venice , once the dominant power here. Then came Napoleon and the Ottomans, and the region paused for breath as part of Italy between the wars before being absorbed into Yugoslavia. Habsburg families would holiday along the Istrian Riviera, taking the waters from stucco villas the colour of faded cotton. Istrian ladies would board the steam boat for Trieste in time for the opera. Now post- Ibiza parties have colonised the southern town of Pula, setting up sound-systems in air-raid tunnels dug during World War I. And while Astérix would feel at home in the oaky-folky hinterland, with its wild boar, farm signs for donkey milk and cart wheels, a succession of discreet, well-designed wine estates, hotels and villas are appearing – a marked change from the days when grand façades hid fly-blown Seventies interiors – and the region’s small-batch food and low-intervention wine (oh, the wine) is gaining a reputation to match Tuscany ’s.

Swimming at Rovinj

There’s a routine to any first day back in Rovinj. Walk around the harbour past fishing nets and the knitting-needle click of masts on one side, the old tobacco chimneys on the other, for a drink outside the Hotel Adriatic. Then climb shellac-smooth steps through the old town, past the iron-booted diving suit at Veli Jože restaurant, up to the church plateau for a crow’s-nest sighting of the Adriatic, the statue of St Euphemia high above set on ball-bearings so she turns with the wind. In the tangle of medieval alleys, some end abruptly with the waves. Swifts scream overhead like Imperial fighters defending the Death Star. Many families, with memories that go back 600 years, have sold up, swapping crumbling garrets for brighter homes further out, but there are still semaphores of laundry strung between apartments. The town cobbler holds fast, a box frame outside like a shrine with wooden lasts and two-tone leather; wilting photographs show smiling men with aprons and cigarettes, squinting in sepia sunshine. There will always be time for Prosecco and scallops and sea truffles at Puntulina, cradled in the rocks where smugglers landed fish in Venetian times and where local youth jump in, brown limbs kicking up flurries of dazzled water, like a scene from an early Fellini film. Sometimes I’ll see dolphins loping into a blood-orange sunset – it feels like the restaurant at the end of the universe.

A seafood feast at Villa Angelo in Motovun

‘Four years ago, there was a mighty storm that sent waves crashing right over us, whoosh!’ says Giovanni Pellizzer, generations of fishermen behind him, who runs Puntulina like a boat’s skipper. ‘Afterwards we found sea sponges on the roof.’ His father Corrado is the godfather of Rovinj nightlife; after visiting Milan in the 1960s, he opened the first disco in Yugoslavia here, then its first pizzeria. The club closed down, bizarrely accused of playing fascist music, but his restaurants survive. ‘My father’s 81 but when he’s with his friends at the Rio café, drinking and telling stories, he’s still in his 20s.’ At the Grota bar in the market, men the same generation gather like Scorsese wiseguys, T-shirts straining, trading well-trodden jokes in Rovinj-Italian around the upturned barrels, sometimes snapping hands out for a round of morra , the millennia-old guessing game. Marietta, body like a ballerina, pirouettes around with the mid-morning wine, the bar’s own vintage, and carries glasses of fizzy, herbaceous Pasareta, the colour of neon coral, to the fishmongers who stand over rock-skinned scorpion fish, mouths gaping like surprised gargoyles, ready for the bouillabaisse pot.

Slipping into the water off Mulini beach and its modernist white promenade, you swim back only to sink calf-deep in pebbles, laughing and flailing around, falling on your knees to wade out. Just around the headland is one of my favourite places, a derelict beach club that’s slowly been zombified, creepers and roots taking over the graffitied swimming pools . Look on my ping-pong tables, ye mighty, and despair. Further along the coast the beaches get wilder and more naked. Locals will head to the nearby islands to swim, or over to little coves such as the one at Brsecˇ, or Premantura on the southern tip, to dive from high on the cliffs. Istria is flinty hard, karst country, with limestone bones that knuckle through the surface, cushioned by red earth that scars easily. On the geological record, its time as part of Yugoslavia is just a scattering of dust.

The beach at Brsec

From the 1950s, the Istrian islands were designated as the people’s paradise by Tito – war hero, Stalin-defier, and a man with an almost Tudor appetite for exotic beasts – who had his summer home in the Brijuni cluster, driving his Lincoln Convertible around and feeding the elephants given to him by Indira Gandhi. His wildlife park survives, with one solitary tusker and a forlornly surreal atmosphere. Get the angles right and you can line up grazing zebra with Roman ruins and empty beaches. In the gallery are acres of photographs of the man, a homage to wide-lapel beige suits and the stars of the day. He was modest enough to request Richard Burton to play him in a film, hosting the actor on his yacht the Galeb , which is soon to be turned into a museum. Burton, strangely sober and bored by the endless translated anecdotes, Taylor basking in the perceived power of it all, waving at sunbathers on the rocks – Tito proudly telling his captive audience that the caves beneath are infested with gunboats and submarines.

There are Ottoman ruins in the woods outside Meneghetti wine estate, near Bale, and old army camps with artillery shells set as a warning on concrete posts. On a pebble beach here the only other person is a grizzled man who rubs his stubble and tells me he once played folk guitar for Tito. But at Meneghetti it’s all about the here and the now and the Merlot and food: oysters from the Lim fjord, goat’s cheese and prosciutto, orzo stained black with cuttlefish, beetroot and chocolate ice cream . Eating never used to be this good in Croatia . Olive oil so fresh it kicks like a grasshopper; white Malvazija wine, floral and light. I stumble across a trio of young chefs who have set up ranch outside Rovinj, bringing intricate seafood plates to painted tables beneath olive trees as the light ripens and fades. In country konobas , the family-run taverns, strong-armed matriarchs stir pencil shavings of earthy black truffle into creamy pasta, and serve mushrooms gathered in the forest that morning. A challenge would be to go a day without eating truffle in some form. I try it once, only to be ambushed by a tapenade of olive and truffle, unannounced on the menu.

A door in Motovun

Those truffles come from Istria’s interior, from around medieval villages that delight in names such as Hum and Vrh. Many exist in various states of abandonment and rediscovery; left to crumble after World War II. Grozˇnjan, for example, is heartbreakingly pretty, with its painted shutters and absence of 21st-century trappings, but, transformed into an art colony in the 1960s, is now over-run with wind chimes and figurines, garish oil paintings of the sort that decorate coffee shops. But in Oprtalj, the church bell scattered birds above an empty square, and Escher-like steps seem to lead nowhere. A solitary figure with the beard and gauntness of a dissident poet sits on a bench selling local wine. I find a single atelier open, owned by a Dutch emigré, Minke van Ingen, who knits life-like birds, sets flowers in resin and has a Martin Parr-like eye for the everyday absurd. She counts on her fingers and tells me that just 55 people live here, many of the buildings were restored as foster homes for orphans from the Bosnian conflict. But many are still roofless shells, beautiful ruins with hollow-eyed windows, an eerie Wild East ghost town.

Folklore still skulks and snaps twigs in the dense greensward. Libidinous blood-drinkers, or vukodlaci , nocturnal demons and vampire-hunting shaman make for a Balkan Gothic untapped by popular culture. The first recorded story of a vampire comes from the hamlet of Kringa, and a 17th-century figure who kept rising from the dead until neighbours drove a stake through his heart. Beneath the soft waves off Rovinj lies a drowned village known as Cissa, the Istrian Atlantis, and fishermen claim their nets occasionally snare amphora or bricks. But vampires, really? My friend Vanja, who has lived here since she was a girl, smiles a smile and twiddles the red bracelet she wears to ward off witches.

Cliff jumping at Cape Kamenjak

In Motovun, grass grows between rippling cobbles; long-shut iron gates guard untended wilderness. A van trundles around, its female Tannoy voice repeating ‘fresh fish, fresh fish’ over brass-band horns. On café radios, hoarse-throated crooners sing of love and loss over plinky-plonk rhythms – Tom Waits meets Eurovision. I side-step off the street and follow a back path braced by vines, down to a cemetery guarded by a cortege of slender-hipped cypresses, stones decorated with the Catholic kitsch of plastic flowers and cupids, Luigis next to Draganovics. It’s a languorous cat-stretch of a day. Geckos slip in and out of stone walls like tongues. At the top of the village are battlements where you can lean on fossil-dry bulwarks and trace the line of the canal that threads into Slovenia, the valley breeze buffing your face.

Compared to Oprtalj, Motovun is a megacity of almost 550 people. I find 10 of them gathered in the church one evening, male voices joined in acappella; a Croatian klapa choir. Singing has deep roots in Istria; instead of sea shanties, fishermen sang aria da nuoto , passing notes wordlessly from boat to boat. William, a towering presence and the local curtain-maker, stands alongside the mayor and a man with badger-hair mohawk; the choir master is the cousin of a cousin of someone else and the voices rise, va-va-va-va, as warm as freshly waxed oak, up towards fleshy baroque angels. Outside, a lone red Fiat, filled with laughing, dark-haired students, rattles down a squeeze-gut street, scrapes its axle and disappears round a bend.

Motovun

I head back to my friends at Villa Angelo, an 18th-century former customs house with a nose-less stone face above the door lintel, which has been tamed by a thirtysomething English landscape gardener, Ben Wilson, as a place to rent. The floors are laid with stippled local marble from the same quarry that helped build Venice and the White House. There’s a wooden chemist’s counter from Italy, sketches of the Château de Clavary and its Picasso mosaic, which once belonged to the family, and a terrace with a rain-polished farmhouse table, arched windows framing needlework rows of vines, the coarse green wool of woodland. Right beneath is a delicious strip of swimming pool – the only one in Motovun, wrestled out of the hard ground – and a garden hazy-impressionist with lavender and rosemary, a cave-like steam room tucked inside dry-stone walls the colour of crema Catalana.

Ben’s father Philip wears braces on his trousers decorated with skulls, has a sparkle in his eye, and offers to show us his collection of outlandish gourds. A retired publisher, whose own father ran Sotheby’s after the war, he bought a house in Motovun in the late 1970s when a book on medieval medical instruments became an unlikely hit in Yugoslavia. We’re closer here to more UNESCO sites than Berlin or Paris , he declares from the terrace. And that large house over on the hillside there, he points, belongs to one of the last of the Habsburgs. Over there, a descendant of Bismarck. These folds of half-forgotten valleys are where old empires go to ground. English eccentrics, too, and an LA video director, a neighbour, who eloped here from the madness to make his own music and throttles around villages and wild-swimming waterholes on his motorbike. He joins us for a feast on the terrace, Nick Cave hair and Byron white shirt, where chef Sasha brings king-prawn risotto and red mullet, sleeves rolled up, shaking his head sadly at our request for no meat and talking about life in the Balkans. ‘Albania?’ he shrugs, ‘I would never return but,’ his eyes light up, ‘they make Cognac better than the French.’ Istrians can be a little disparaging about Dalmatia and its art of fjaka , the sweetness of doing nothing – or as I’m told by Vanja, ‘when the sun gets up, it’s time for them to lie down’.

People walking on rocks at sunset in Rovinj

The feast turns into a pool party, blurs of pale inked skin breaking the water’s surface as lightning veins the darkness. Above, clear skies swirl with million-year-old star-shine: this elevated hill village is an accidental observatory. It seems in the middle of nowhere, but feels more connected to the rest of the galaxy than any city . The next morning, there is a noise outside the shutters that ebbs then gathers fresh mom-entum. It’s a resonant brightness of feathery static, a glitterball burst of birdsong that seems to oscillate on the same frequency as the sun. As the light saturates the room, so does the sound of swifts and swallows. Here in Istria, there is clarity. Of light and water, of stone and birdsong.

WHERE TO STAY IN ISTRIA, CROATIA

Villa angelo.

Villa Angelo in Motovun sleeps up to six adults and two children, from £2,200 per week including housekeeping.

Book your stay

HOTEL ADRIATIC, ROVINJ

In Rovinj, Hotel Adriatic has held a commanding presence on the harbourfront since 1913 but languished rather dustily until being revived with rooms decorated by artists and a dining room all a-flutter with taxidermy owls.

Address: Hotel Adriatic, Obala Pina Budicina 16, 52210, Rovinj, Croatia Price: doubles from about £225

SPIRITO SANTO, ROVINJ

A new arrival is Spirito Santo, craftily fitted into an 18th-century townhouse, with original frescos and a stone well.

Address: Spirito Santo, Ulica Augusto Ferri 44, 52210, Rovinj, Croatia Price: doubles from about £120

Istria Croatia An insider's guide

THE MELEGRAN, ROVINJ

This opened in August 2018, its owners a couple from Notting Hill – Adrian and his wife Lea, whose grandfather was once mayor of Pula, so there are plenty of local tales to be told. It's right in the centre of the old town, with terrace views over the Adriatic, and bright rooms ( see above ) – all individually designed, with various shades of pink, swimming-pool fabrics, tropical wallpaper and the occasional typewriter – fitted neatly in beneath the beamed ceilings. There's even a little lounge bar for sampling the local wines. (The hotel name, in case you're wondering, translates as pomegranate.)

Address: The Melegran, Garzotto 14, Rovinj, Croatia Website: melegran.com Book your stay

MENEGHETTI, BALE

Outside Bale, on the coast between Rovinj and Pula, Meneghetti has deckchairs under oaks, two sunlit pools, a sign by the vineyard pointing to the beach; book one of the villas with a private garden to loll in after wine tasting or a couple of rooibus gin and tonics.

A bedroom at Megeghetti

Address: Meneghetti, Stancija Meneghetti 1, 52211, Bale, Croatia Price: doubles from about £170 Book your stay

WHERE TO EAT IN ISTRIA, CROATIA

A plate of truffle pasta on a white rustic plate

STARI PODRUM

Near Motovun, Stari Podrum in Momjan is a konoba worth whiling away an afternoon in, for its courgette carpaccio, forest mushrooms, steak with truffles, scrambled egg with truffles, and wines brought over from KozloviĆ winery next door.

Address: aStari Podrum and KozloviĆ, Most 52, 52462, Merišće, Croatia Websites: staripodrum.info, kozlovic.hr.

In Rovinj, claim an outside table at Puntulina but pop by for an Aperol Spritz on the rocks, literally, at Mediterraneo (avoid the over-priced Valentino nearby), whose chefs have just opened a garden restaurant in olive groves outside town, a delight. Puntulina’s two siblings in Rovinj, Rio and Giannino, are also recommended.

Address: Puntulina, Ul. Sv. Križa 38, 52210, Rovinj, Croatia Website: puntulina.eu

HOW TO GET TO ISTRIA, CROATIA

For more information on Istria, visit the Istria Tourist Board at istra.hr . If you need a motorboat to speed you around the islands, Vedran Modrusˇan is your man. rovinj-boat.com

St Andrew's island

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The lobby bar at Hotel Adriatic

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Golden Cape national park in Rovinj

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An Aperol Spritz at Puntulina

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Antique ceramics at Meneghetti

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Istria Is Croatia's Hidden Gem — and the Melting Pot of the Adriatic

Croatia’s Istrian peninsula is rich with the bounties of earth and sea—and with remnants of the many cultures that have claimed it through the ages.

travel istria croatia

Before we go further, you should know there are no yachts in this Croatia story. No below-deck rabble-rousing or port-side parties of the kind you'll find in Dubrovnik or Hvar , where the rich and fabulous descend each summer. This story is about Istria, located at the opposite end of the country, where the "champagne" most commonly popped is sparkling Malvazija Istarska, the versatile native white, and the seaworthy ride is a bivalve harvester roped to the dock of Tony's Oyster Shack at the beachhead of Limski Fjord.

The cruise director of this no-frills vessel and owner of the oyster shack is Emil Sošiæ, a blue-eyed, buzz-cut connoisseur of Malvazija, massages, and Tina Turner. Emil spends most days on this fjord, and his boat may be a harder invitation to come by than any yacht in the Dubrovnik marina: Emil must judge you to be an Oyster Person, or a Wine Person, ideally both.

"Because I offer only oysters, wine," he says. On the rare occasions he indulges a non–Oyster/Wine Person, he faces off-brand demands: "Why is there no water? Why is there no Coca-Cola?" He sighs. "An Oyster Person does not ask for this."

Emil's family has lived on a hill overlooking the fjord for seven generations, and he's been farming flat European oysters for 16 years. They are among the many gastronomic specialties of Istria, an under-the-(American-)radar culinary capital home to hundreds of olive-oil estates and wineries, a coastline brimming with immaculate seafood, and ancient foodways that are nurturing a new generation of makers raised amid the turmoil of the Yugoslav Wars. When something is excellent, Croatians say, "Top!" For those who travel to eat, Istria is top.

Our boat glides down the six-mile fjord. The angle of the sunlight, the nearness to the sea, the mineral runoff from the forested hills that rise up on either side like furry green wings—they all cause the color of the water to shift, from cloudy jade to aquamarine to deepest denim. It's like sailing across the surface of a mood ring. Halfway between the beach and the Adriatic, the farm materializes: more than a thousand oval buoys lined up like the lanes in a lap pool, each tethered to an oyster cage below the surface. Emil's captain flings the anchor overboard, engages the winch to raise the cages, then heads aft for a cigarette.

Some destinations conceal their treasures, make you work for them. Istria puts them all out on a picnic table underneath a vine-laced arbor, then covers them in world-class olive oil

"Ask anyone here, where are the oysters in Istria?" Emil says. "Limski Bay. And ask, who has the oysters in Limski Bay?" He points to himself with a neatly manicured finger. A few years ago, there were other farmers raising oysters and mussels, but, according to Emil, they all gave up. Bivalves take their sweet time in these legally protected waters.

"Other farms mature oysters in two years. Ours take three and a half," he says. "Nice and easy." As if on cue, Tina Turner's raspy intro to "Proud Mary" blares over the boat's speakers. "You see we never ever do nothing / Nice, easy," she growls. "We always do it nice and rough."

Over the course of a week in Istria, this is what constitutes rough: the calf-searing ascent to dinner at the Michelin-starred Monte, in the shadow of Rovinj's hilltop St. Euphemia church; finding a roadside strawberry stand closed; truffle hunter Nicola Tarandek's dog biting a precious fungus in half during a hunt in the Motovun woods. Which is to say, not very rough at all.

The people are openhearted, the infrastructure impeccable, the lifestyle salubrious. Some destinations conceal their treasures, make you work for them. Istria puts them all out on a picnic table underneath a vine-laced arbor, then covers them in world-class olive oil. After more than a year away from Europe, it's about as low-stress a reacquaintance as an American can get.

And we're rollin'. "Rollin' on the river!" Emil sings as we slide up to the dock. While the captain pours himself Malvazija from a plastic water bottle, Emil shucks oysters and wild "sea truffles" (cockles—salty and preternaturally sweet) and arranges them on a tin platter.

I slurp an oyster down. Its brininess shocks my face like a cold wave, then retreats to reveal rich creaminess—panna cotta del mare. I toss back a few more and wash them down with the Malvazija, young and jicama-crisp. I could stay here all day, eating oysters and drinking white wine on a ramshackle dock, overlooking a glittering body of water, but Istria has more to show me, so I jump back in the car, and we're rollin'.

Istria is shaped like a slice of pizza, and Pula, the peninsula's largest city, is just northwest of the point. It's an octopus of pedestrian alleys and leafy boulevards climbing out from the seaport. Wandering the city, I encounter Roman ruins, in various stages of preservation and decay, as common as ATMs. The most impressive, the Pula Arena, watches the waterfront from a hill. Nearby, the market heaves with strawberries and wild asparagus in the spring, stone fruit and melons in the summer, and Stancija Kumparièka dairy's fantastic goat-milk cheeses—vacuumsealed for travelers—all year long.

Pula makes a convenient base for exploring the region, and its Pješèana Uvala neighborhood is the kind of quiet, residential seaside cloister you'd see on House Hunters International . Tykes tearing across the beachfront playground, teens playing pickup basketball, friends unfurled on sofas on café patios. There are plenty of well-kept boats in the marina, none of them yachts, and plenty of attractive homes, only a few of them Modernist villas overlooking the sea.

Hotel Valsabbion is one such: four bleached-white stories with a shimmering lap pool and 11 spacious rooms that balance thoughtful details (Frette bedding, essential-oil diffusers) with bohemian spirit.

Premantura, with a population of less than a thousand, sits between Pula and Istria's actual southernmost point, the wildflower-carpeted cliffs of Cape Kamenjak. Luka Žuljeviæ and his wife and business partner, Anja Bendekoviæ Žuljeviæ, moved to the village two years ago, when their distilling hobby—the start of what would eventually become micro-distillery Monachus Gin—began outgrowing their Zagreb apartment just as they were outgrowing their city-based full-time jobs. The proximity to the sea, and to the botanicals that now give Monachus its Istrian terroir, became irresistible.

I follow Luka and Anja's dusty '89 Suzuki Samurai to Cape Kamenjak's upper trailhead. Anja leads me up the stony path, pointing out unruly wild figs and pungent immortelle, its silvery leaves bowing under mops of yellow blossoms.

"On hot days, the smell of the plants is more intense. It's incredible," she says. The cloudy weather has the flora feeling stingy, so the dominant smell is salt air, borne on the Adriatic bora wind.

More Trip Ideas : Historic Cities and Unmatched Wilderness in 'the Colorado of the Balkans'

Back at the Žuljeviæs' home in Premantura, the botanical aromas reveal themselves when the gin starts flowing on the garden patio. They float up one by one—lemony coriander, bright mandarin, piney blue juniper, zesty immortelle, smoky vanilla from the fig leaves—then harmonize into a subtle, elegant bouquet. "Our still is small for the industry, perfect for us," Luka says. "The flavor is always best in small batches."

I wind up sipping funky Sumatran espresso on yet another scenic patio, at yet another villa, with a view of yet another envy-inducing garden.

This is a time of many firsts in the peninsula's food-and-drink realm, and they're happening in garages, home kitchens, barns, and spare bedrooms. After visiting Anja and Luka, I drive to the interior town of Svetvinèenat, where a chalkboard sign outside the two-year-old brewery Kampanjola Eko Bira reads, in Croatian, if no one is here, call this number. I call, and owner Darko Pekica ambles over from his house.

For a place that doesn't even keep regular hours, the hospitality is over-the-top generous. Darko sets out a tasting of Kampanjola's malty porter and easygoing blonde and brown ales, the first to be certified organic in Croatia; a bottle of oil from the olives he grows; and a board decked with his sharp, nutty aged cheeses. (The secret: he reads Walt Whitman to the cows.)

Bora Nera, Istria's first specialty coffee roaster, also appears to be closed when I pull up to the address—not the café I expected, but owners Matteo Cardin and Erika Forlani Cardin's terra-cotta-colored home in Vodnjan. "Oh, yes, we're open. Just ring the doorbell; my husband will let you in," Erika answers when I call.

Which is how I wind up sipping funky Sumatran espresso on yet another scenic patio, at yet another villa, with a view of yet another envy-inducing garden—this one full of Whoville cacti, hardy kiwis, scarlet poppies, and a pawpaw tree smuggled from the hinterlands of New Jersey.

Matteo sells me a bag of his Rwandan Gakenke beans that smell like chocolate covered raspberries, but he won't let me pay for the espresso. As far as he knows, I'm not a writer, just a guy who showed up on his doorstep interested in coffee.

A who's who of problematic empires ruled Istria until Croatia's declaration of independence in 1991: Roman, Venetian, Napoleonic, Austro-Hungarian. After World War I, Italy and its Fascist regime forcibly Italianized the region, subjugating (and murdering) Croats and Slovenes, who fled to Yugoslavia. After World War II, Yugoslavia and its Communist regime forcibly de-Italianized the region, subjugating (and murdering) ethnic Italians, who fled to Italy, North America, and beyond.

Still, Italy's influence is as culturally and culinarily embedded as the olive trees that have been grown here since the first century. Prosciutto is as revered as it is in Parma, but here it's gamier, muskier, deeper in color, and cut in chips thick and sturdy enough to build a house of cards.

It's the same with the region's pristine seafood. Everything from mackerel to langoustines is accorded intense respect, and nowhere more than at Marina , in Novigrad. Chef Marina Gaši enchants me with her poetic crudos: scallops with roe aioli, elderflower-freckled amberjack with coffee and kumquat. And don't tell my Italian friends, but the crazy-popular Pizzeria Rumore, purveyor of pistachio-and-mortadella pies and out-of-body experiences in the medieval aerie of Labin, beats all the pizza I've eaten on the other side of the Adriatic.

Farther inland along the hilly switchbacks, the menus at the homey family-run restaurants known as konobe (the Istrian version of Italian trattorias) reveal watermarks of the region's Austro-Hungarian past. At Konoba Malo Selo, a cozy tavern that specializes in dishes featuring meat from indigenous, longhorned Boskarin cattle, hearty fare offsets the evening chill in the carport turned courtyard. They're sold out of steaks, so my server suggests braised Boskarin "goulash" with gnocchi.

With the region's pristine seafood, everything from mackerel to langoustines is accorded intense respect.

For dessert, it's gibanica, an apple-and-poppy-seed strudel popular across the Balkans, and synthy Whitney Houston covers set against the rustling of an ancient mulberry tree.

Deeper into the woods, at Konoba Kotliæ, ravenous hikers and mountain bikers swallow the "Istrian plate" of crackling pork sausage, tenderloin, and sharp sauerkraut, while the forest swallows this fairy-tale stone cottage, like a Croatian Angkor Wat. Mojmir Ibrahimoviè, Kotliæ's longtime supplier of foraged mushrooms and homemade cheese, rescued the restaurant in 2017 when the previous owner wanted to close.

"What do you think?" he asks, leaning in. His brows are so bushy they meet his lashes, forming a trellis over eyes as ice-blue as the Mirna River below. I think the Istrian plate—along with the featherweight gnocchi and beef, fuži pasta under a canopy of shaved black truffle, and almond-dusted crêpes rolled up around hot fudge and plum preserves—constitutes the best meal I've eaten in Istria, and maybe one of the best I've eaten, period.

Travel concierge and Airbnb host Marko Radoviæ was four when things got bad in Slovonski Brod in 1992, a year after Croatia's secession from Yugoslavia. His parents owned a bar in that deep-inland city, far away from Istria, both physically and culturally.

"I remember hearing the airplanes roaring above. There were days we weren't allowed to go outside," he says over lunch at the watermelon-colored Casa Rossa, a konoba and inn with an unbeatable view of the hilltop village of Motovun. "My parents did not want to leave Croatia. Istria was farthest away from the conflict, but no one in my family had ever been there, and we spoke a completely different dialect."

Eventually they saved up enough to open their own place, Bistro Niki's, in Poreè, a summer town on the Istrian coast between Rovinj and Novigrad. Marko has worked there on and off all his life. It's where he met his wife, Chelsea, while she was on vacation from Pittsburgh, and with whom he started the travel concierge company Olive & Spice.

They have just put the finishing touches on Villa La Vita Bella , a three-bedroom rental near Poreè with a black-and-white Moroccan-tiled pool and central air—"Croatian contractors think I'm crazy," Chelsea says. Marko still pitches in at the restaurant, where his sister, Irena, is now the chef. He and Chelsea live upstairs.

I meet Markos all over Istria—literally guys named Marko, but more broadly, millennials born in the limbo between the declaration and realization of independence, now stepping into the family business (or starting their own) instead of bouncing for Zagreb or London or New York.

"All my life I have been in the vineyard," another Marko, Marko Fakin, explains in the cozy tasting room of his winery, Vina Fakin , outside Motovun, where his family has lived off the land since the 17th century. "My family were farmers. My father made wine, but mostly grew grapes for other winemakers."

Marko wanted to grow grapes for himself. So in 2010, he produced 2,000 bottles from his father's 10 acres. Today, he farms 91 acres and produces 130,000 bottles of Malvazija and Teran, the Istrian red whose feisty tannins and wild acidity require a winemaker with discipline and finesse, along with some Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet, Syrah, and Muscat. Fakin has a great catchphrase: "Fakin good wines." And they are.

Wine making in Croatia is both ancient and new. The Greeks introduced grapes in the sixth century B.C., and Malvazija thrived in Istria's white-limestone-rich soil, up in the mountains. Malvazija is the Swiss Army knife of whites. It can sparkle. It can be as zippy as a Sauvignon Blanc or as voluptuous as Viognier. It can age, in oak or acacia barrels or conical clay vessels called amphorae, or go orange, as it does at Ipša , whose 2017 Malvazija is my favorite—an amber daydream of jasmine, apricot, and Honey Nut Cheerios.

Had Yugoslavia not fallen, and with it the state-controlled wine cooperatives, there would be no Ipša (home to another father-son duo, Klaudio and Ivan Ipša) or Vina Fakin as they exist today. Following independence, winemakers shifted focus from quantity to quality, and Croatia started to gain traction as an internationally significant wine region. Road-tripping through Istria's lush interior and its grape-pampering microclimates of hot days and sea-breeze-cooled nights, I see that the ingredients for excellence have always been there, just waiting for the right moment.

Related : The Best Wine Regions in Europe You'e Never Heard Of

Every few miles, another winery beckons. Thirty minutes from Fakin and an olive's toss from the Slovenian border, an unhurried construction project takes me on a detour to Kabola Winery , Croatia's pioneer of amphora-aged, skin-contact wine in Momjan. After working for a large hotel chain, Ana Markežiæ moved back to Kabola to help her parents run the place while studying for her Italian sommelier certificate. She fills my glass with lovely iterations of Muškat Momjanski, from screaming-for-oysters-dry to honey-drenched.

By Croatian law, only wineries in Momjan can use the Muškat Momjanski label, and now Ana is part of the effort to land a DOC-type protection from the European Union. Working to safeguard this fickle little grape, and by proxy her hometown and her heritage, was, for Markežiæ, a foregone conclusion.

"I studied in Italy and traveled all over the world, but coming back to work in the family winery has become a natural part of the growing process," she says.

Marko Radoviæ wasn't so sure. He and Chelsea started his U.S. greencard process two years ago, imagining they'd eventually relocate. But after spending last winter in the wet gloom of Pittsburgh he had a change of heart. "I miss the sushi and the tacos, but you can't beat this," he says, gesturing to the truffles on his plate and the postcard view of Motovun.

I think about Emil's oysters, Luka and Anja's gin, the dozens of other age-old and modern expressions of Istria I've consumed this week. No disrespect to Pittsburgh, but he has a point.

Eat Your Way Through Istria

Where to stay.

Hotel Valsabbion : The modern design of this Pula property doesn't sacrifice comfort. Doubles from $117.

Meneghetti Wine Hotel : Stay in a dreamy villa amid olive groves and vineyards. Doubles from $415.

San Canzian Village & Hotel : A laid-back-luxe retreat with a pool and a culinary focus. doubles from $291.

Villa La Vita Bella : This spot near Porečis built for languid terrace meals. Villa from $415.

Where to Eat & Drink

Ipša : This family-owned operation makes stellar Malvazija.

Kabola Winery : An organic winery producing some of Croatia's best bottles.

Konoba Kotlić : Comfort food so good you'll weep. Entrées $11–$35.

Konoba Malo Selo : The place to go for Boskarin beef and cozy vibes. Entrées $8–$40.

Marina : A celebration of the bounty of the Adriatic. Tasting menus from $73.

Pizzeria Rumore : Labin's premier pie shop rivals any in Naples. Entrées $8–$14 .

Tony's Oyster Shack : Slurp down bivalves straight from Limski Fjord.

Vina Fakin : Motovun's most lauded winery highlights native grapes.

A version of this story first appeared in the September 2021 issue of Travel + Leisure under the headline Belle of the Balkans.

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' class=

I have one extra day, and I'm wondering if anyone would recommend any of these ideas:

1) Spend a fifth night in Rovinj (there's just so much to do it seems in Istria)

2) Spend one night in Labin, Rabac or Opatija

3) Spend two nights in Plitvice instead of one so that our day there can be longer

4) Spend time exploring between Plitvice and Zagreb (certainly Rakovica, but maybe also the the wineries of Plesivica and the town of Somobor)

Thank you for your input!

5 replies to this topic

Spend that night in Opatija without a doubt. You simply don't need 2 nights at Plitvice.

So many choices! Thanks for your input!

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Yes I meant Rastoke - thanks for noting that!

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Istria is a peninsula and the most popular tourist region in Croatia. Pula is a city on the far south of Istria and the biggest one. Like other cities and towns in our region, it abounds in many great beaches. Whether you come with your family to some of our camps, stay in one of […]

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Travel to Istria with kids

The 6 best things to do for families in istria.

From exhilarating watersports to captivating wildlife encounters, Istria offers an abundance of family-friendly activities in the vicinity of Kempinski Hotel Adriatic, sure to create lasting memories of your seaside holiday. Plan your family adventure in Istria and discover the most exciting region in Croatia.

1. Hotel's Kids Playground  

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Just a few steps from our resort, after a walk through the pine trees, you will find our kids' playground . From traditional swings and slides to imaginative play structures, these playgrounds provide endless entertainment for children of all ages. Let your little ones run wild, make new friends, and burn off some energy while you relax and soak in the Adriatic sun.

2. Watersports on the hotel beach  

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Take a short walk from the hotel and experience exhilarating watersports at our breathtaking beach . From jet skiing to paddleboarding, our beachfront location offers a range of activities for water enthusiasts of all ages. Dive into the crystal-clear waters of the Adriatic Sea and create unforgettable memories with your family in Istria. Please note the service is available from mid-June to mid-September.

3. Adventure Park Jangalooz, Umag  

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Recreational facility, Recreational Facility, Recreation, Property Amenity, On-Site

Embark on an adventure-filled journey at Adventure Park Jangalooz in nearby Umag, just a short drive from Kempinski Hotel Adriatic. This exciting outdoor playground offers endless fun for both kids and adults with rope courses, zip lines, and climbing walls. Unleash your inner explorer amidst the lush greenery of Istria's landscapes and spend an exciting afternoon with the whole family. Please note that the Adventure Park Jangalooz is open from May to October.

4. Safari Park (zoo), Brijuni National Park  

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Local attraction, Local Attraction, Local Area, Off-Site

Immerse yourself in nature's beauty with a spectacular safari park adventure at National Park Brijuni , on Brijuni islands. Discover stunning landscapes, diverse wildlife, the famous elephant Lanka and talking parrot Koki,  as you enjoy a guided tour through this pristine natural reserve. Choose the tourist train tour, perfect for kids, or opt for bikes, electric scooters or buggies for a memorable discovery. Explore ancient ruins, lush forests, and serene beaches, all within easy reach from Kempinski Hotel Adriatic. Our Concierge will gladly organise a private transfer at your desired date and time. For additional information please contact [email protected]

5. Aquapark Istralandia  

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Make a splash at the most famous aquapark in the region. Visit Aquapark Istralandia , the largest water park in Croatia, located just a short drive from our resort. With thrilling slides, lazy rivers, and splash zones, there's something for everyone to enjoy. Dive into a world of aquatic fun and create lasting memories with your family. Please note that the Aquapark Istralandia is open from 25 May 2024 until 15 September 2024.

6. Dinopark Funtana  

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Step back in time and encounter dinosaurs at Dinopark Funtana , a prehistoric-themed attraction park near Funtana, Istria. Take a short drive from the hotel and explore life-size dinosaur replicas, interactive exhibits, and fossil displays. With exciting activities and educational experiences, Dinopark Funtana promises a journey of discovery for kids and adults alike.

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Kids Club at Kempinski Hotel Adriatic  

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Recreational facility, Recreational Facility, Property Amenity, Recreation, On-Site

At Kempinski Hotel Adriatic, our Kids Club caters to children aged 3 to 12, offering complimentary access. Treat your little ones to a world of joy and amusement with a selection of vibrant toys and engaging amenities. Whether they're bouncing on the trampoline, exploring the pirate ship, or playing in the mini kitchens, every moment is filled with laughter and delight. Learn more on the following LINK.

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20 amazing places to visit in the Balkans

Posted: December 17, 2023 | Last updated: December 17, 2023

<p>The Balkan countries are an underrated part of Europe, rich in history, culture, and scenery. Not to mention kind people and unique food and drink. Here are 20 places to consider visiting!</p>

The Balkan countries are an underrated part of Europe, rich in history, culture, and scenery. Not to mention kind people and unique food and drink. Here are 20 places to consider visiting!

<p>The capital of Croatia is very different from other major cities in the Balkans. Home to numerous museums, including the wonderful yet heartbreaking Museum of Broken Relationships, you could spend weeks learning in Zagreb. When you need a place to rest after museum-hopping, chill out at one of the amazing coffee shops in the city or stylish bars, often housed in ruins.</p><p>You may also like: <a href='https://www.yardbarker.com/lifestyle/articles/20_items_you_should_declutter_from_your_home_right_now_101323/s1__38830539'>20 items you should declutter from your home right now</a></p>

Zagreb, Croatia

The capital of Croatia is very different from other major cities in the Balkans. Home to numerous museums, including the wonderful yet heartbreaking Museum of Broken Relationships, you could spend weeks learning in Zagreb. When you need a place to rest after museum-hopping, chill out at one of the amazing coffee shops in the city or stylish bars, often housed in ruins.

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<p>Often skipped by visitors in favor of the ever-popular Dalmatian Coast, Istria is Croatia’s best-kept secret! A peninsula close to Italy, you’ll be forgiven for thinking you’re in the land of pizza and espresso. Brightly colored buildings, amazing olive oil, and some of the best truffles in the world can be found here. Don’t miss towns like Rovinj, Bale, Motovun, Grožnjan, and Vodnjan.</p><p><a href='https://www.msn.com/en-us/community/channel/vid-cj9pqbr0vn9in2b6ddcd8sfgpfq6x6utp44fssrv6mc2gtybw0us'>Follow us on MSN to see more of our exclusive lifestyle content.</a></p>

Istria Peninsula, Croatia

Often skipped by visitors in favor of the ever-popular Dalmatian Coast, Istria is Croatia’s best-kept secret! A peninsula close to Italy, you’ll be forgiven for thinking you’re in the land of pizza and espresso. Brightly colored buildings, amazing olive oil, and some of the best truffles in the world can be found here. Don’t miss towns like Rovinj, Bale, Motovun, Grožnjan, and Vodnjan.

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<p>Alfred Hitchcock adored Zadar, particularly at sunset. Visit this up-and-coming city, and you’ll see why. One of Croatia’s best vegan restaurants calls the city home and some of Croatia’s best Roman ruins. The waterfront features two unique art installations: the Sea Organ (organ pipes drilled under the water) and “Greeting the Sun” (lights that change color per the sun’s movement.)</p><p>You may also like: <a href='https://www.yardbarker.com/lifestyle/articles/20_fascinating_facts_about_mcdonalds_102023/s1__37905110'>20 fascinating facts about McDonald’s</a></p>

Zadar, Croatia

Alfred Hitchcock adored Zadar, particularly at sunset. Visit this up-and-coming city, and you’ll see why. One of Croatia’s best vegan restaurants calls the city home and some of Croatia’s best Roman ruins. The waterfront features two unique art installations: the Sea Organ (organ pipes drilled under the water) and “Greeting the Sun” (lights that change color per the sun’s movement.)

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<p>The former Greek and Roman center still houses one of the most impressive ruins in the Balkans, Diocletian’s Palace. The former retirement home of Roman rulers is now home to apartments, shops, and restaurants, with various parts sectioned off as museums. Split also has a small but beautiful promenade, a forest park with views above the city, and many of the country’s top restaurants.</p><p><a href='https://www.msn.com/en-us/community/channel/vid-cj9pqbr0vn9in2b6ddcd8sfgpfq6x6utp44fssrv6mc2gtybw0us'>Follow us on MSN to see more of our exclusive lifestyle content.</a></p>

Split, Croatia

The former Greek and Roman center still houses one of the most impressive ruins in the Balkans, Diocletian’s Palace. The former retirement home of Roman rulers is now home to apartments, shops, and restaurants, with various parts sectioned off as museums. Split also has a small but beautiful promenade, a forest park with views above the city, and many of the country’s top restaurants.

<p>This list, of course, couldn’t have been completed without mentioning arguably the most famous destination in the Balkans. <em>Game of Thrones</em> ensured the city is now on every traveler’s wishlist, so while you won’t ever have Dubrovnik to yourself, it’s still worth a visit. Enjoy views from atop the city walls, kayak around the hidden coves, and have dinner in the magical Old Town. </p><p>You may also like: <a href='https://www.yardbarker.com/lifestyle/articles/the_14_most_beautiful_beach_towns_on_the_west_coast_110723/s1__38578337'>The 14 most beautiful beach towns on the West Coast</a></p>

Dubrovnik, Croatia

This list, of course, couldn’t have been completed without mentioning arguably the most famous destination in the Balkans. Game of Thrones ensured the city is now on every traveler’s wishlist, so while you won’t ever have Dubrovnik to yourself, it’s still worth a visit. Enjoy views from atop the city walls, kayak around the hidden coves, and have dinner in the magical Old Town. 

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<p>A little over two hours by ferry from Dubrovnik is this gem of an island, home to wineries with many unique varietals and many high-quality restaurants, including LD, a Michelin-star restaurant that uses mainly ingredients from Korcula. You can hike or bike one of the island’s endless trails when not drinking.</p><p><a href='https://www.msn.com/en-us/community/channel/vid-cj9pqbr0vn9in2b6ddcd8sfgpfq6x6utp44fssrv6mc2gtybw0us'>Follow us on MSN to see more of our exclusive lifestyle content.</a></p>

Korcula, Croatia

A little over two hours by ferry from Dubrovnik is this gem of an island, home to wineries with many unique varietals and many high-quality restaurants, including LD, a Michelin-star restaurant that uses mainly ingredients from Korcula. You can hike or bike one of the island’s endless trails when not drinking.

<p>Vis lacks activities compared to other islands, but that’s the point. You come to the island to relax and not do much else. Popular with the sailing crowd, you’ll find a different type of traveler here, as it’s the furthest island from the Croatian mainland. Come with a stack of books, sunglasses, and not much else.</p><p>You may also like: <a href='https://www.yardbarker.com/lifestyle/articles/when_in_rome_15_things_you_must_do_in_the_capital_of_italy_121723/s1__37929306'>When in Rome: 15 things you must do in the capital of Italy</a></p>

Vis, Croatia

Vis lacks activities compared to other islands, but that’s the point. You come to the island to relax and not do much else. Popular with the sailing crowd, you’ll find a different type of traveler here, as it’s the furthest island from the Croatian mainland. Come with a stack of books, sunglasses, and not much else.

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<p>This capital city is full of history (the Latin Bridge is where Franz Ferdinand was shot and WWI began) and is still visibly marked by the Bosnian War. Numerous walking tours and museums are dedicated to telling Sarajevo’s story. You can also take the cable car up Trebec Mountain and walk the old bobsled run from the 1984 Olympics.</p><p><a href='https://www.msn.com/en-us/community/channel/vid-cj9pqbr0vn9in2b6ddcd8sfgpfq6x6utp44fssrv6mc2gtybw0us'>Follow us on MSN to see more of our exclusive lifestyle content.</a></p>

Sarajevo, Bosnia & Herzegovina

This capital city is full of history (the Latin Bridge is where Franz Ferdinand was shot and WWI began) and is still visibly marked by the Bosnian War. Numerous walking tours and museums are dedicated to telling Sarajevo’s story. You can also take the cable car up Trebec Mountain and walk the old bobsled run from the 1984 Olympics.

<p>In the south of the country, solidly in the region of Herzegovina, is one of the Balkan’s most adorable towns. Mostar and its small Old Town will have you in love at first glance. Wander the many bridges, have coffee at one of the cute cafes, sample regional wine, and watch the locals jump off the Old Bridge into the river on a hot day.</p><p>You may also like: <a href='https://www.yardbarker.com/lifestyle/articles/18_things_you_think_are_normal_but_are_actually_uniquely_american/s1__39111167'>18 things you think are normal but are actually uniquely American</a></p>

Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina

In the south of the country, solidly in the region of Herzegovina, is one of the Balkan’s most adorable towns. Mostar and its small Old Town will have you in love at first glance. Wander the many bridges, have coffee at one of the cute cafes, sample regional wine, and watch the locals jump off the Old Bridge into the river on a hot day.

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<p>The Balkans aren’t known for wine, but the region is home to some amazing producers. If you’ve had wine from the area, it was likely from Croatia (and even that’s rare outside of the country itself.) However, the best up-and-coming destination is Herzegovina. This region has two main varietals; Žilavka, an acidic white wine, and Blatina, a full-bodied red. Both can be sampled in Mostar; however, for the best experience, visit the vineyards outside of town!</p><p><a href='https://www.msn.com/en-us/community/channel/vid-cj9pqbr0vn9in2b6ddcd8sfgpfq6x6utp44fssrv6mc2gtybw0us'>Follow us on MSN to see more of our exclusive lifestyle content.</a></p>

Herzegovina wine country

The Balkans aren’t known for wine, but the region is home to some amazing producers. If you’ve had wine from the area, it was likely from Croatia (and even that’s rare outside of the country itself.) However, the best up-and-coming destination is Herzegovina. This region has two main varietals; Žilavka, an acidic white wine, and Blatina, a full-bodied red. Both can be sampled in Mostar; however, for the best experience, visit the vineyards outside of town!

<p>The cruise ship capital of Montenegro is worth a visit whether you’re arriving by land or sea. The epic fortress is a must, hike up for the best views in the country or trek the Ladder of Kotor, a winding trail with amazing views. Then, take a boat to Our Lady of Rocks and the Blue Cave and wander Old Town to round out your site-seeing!</p><p>You may also like: <a href='https://www.yardbarker.com/lifestyle/articles/22_southern_slow_cooker_recipes_121723/s1__39105921'>22 Southern slow-cooker recipes</a></p>

Kotor, Montenegro

The cruise ship capital of Montenegro is worth a visit whether you’re arriving by land or sea. The epic fortress is a must, hike up for the best views in the country or trek the Ladder of Kotor, a winding trail with amazing views. Then, take a boat to Our Lady of Rocks and the Blue Cave and wander Old Town to round out your site-seeing!

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<p>One of the Balkan's best-kept secrets is this gem of a town on the Bay of Kotor. Unlike many regional destinations, the beaches here are sandy and can be enjoyed without water shoes! The Budva Old Town is also super cute for a wander and has some great cafes.</p><p><a href='https://www.msn.com/en-us/community/channel/vid-cj9pqbr0vn9in2b6ddcd8sfgpfq6x6utp44fssrv6mc2gtybw0us'>Follow us on MSN to see more of our exclusive lifestyle content.</a></p>

Budva, Montenegro

One of the Balkan's best-kept secrets is this gem of a town on the Bay of Kotor. Unlike many regional destinations, the beaches here are sandy and can be enjoyed without water shoes! The Budva Old Town is also super cute for a wander and has some great cafes.

<p>Another adorable small Montenegran village just a couple of hours from Dubrovnik, the town of Herceg Novi isn’t commonly visited, despite being one of the most charming destinations in the Balkans! A green oasis home to many tropical flowers, it’s commonly called the “town of 100,001 steps” due to the climbing necessary to make your way around town.</p><p>You may also like: <a href='https://www.yardbarker.com/lifestyle/articles/20_signs_that_youre_obviously_an_american_abroad_101923/s1__39017233'>20 signs that you’re obviously an American abroad</a></p>

Herceg Novi, Montenegro

Another adorable small Montenegran village just a couple of hours from Dubrovnik, the town of Herceg Novi isn’t commonly visited, despite being one of the most charming destinations in the Balkans! A green oasis home to many tropical flowers, it’s commonly called the “town of 100,001 steps” due to the climbing necessary to make your way around town.

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<p>This is probably the quirkiest capital in the Balkans. Italian architecture from the Mussolini period is mixed with Communist-era blocks and historic remains of its varied past as an Ottoman stronghold and closed-off country under a dictatorship for 50 years. These days, the city is full of life. From the trendy Blloku neighborhood to Tirana’s huge city park and endless monuments and museums to explore.</p><p><a href='https://www.msn.com/en-us/community/channel/vid-cj9pqbr0vn9in2b6ddcd8sfgpfq6x6utp44fssrv6mc2gtybw0us'>Follow us on MSN to see more of our exclusive lifestyle content.</a></p>

Tirana, Albania

This is probably the quirkiest capital in the Balkans. Italian architecture from the Mussolini period is mixed with Communist-era blocks and historic remains of its varied past as an Ottoman stronghold and closed-off country under a dictatorship for 50 years. These days, the city is full of life. From the trendy Blloku neighborhood to Tirana’s huge city park and endless monuments and museums to explore.

<p>The unofficial capital of the “Albanian Riveria,” Sarande feels like a world away from the rest of the country. Electric blue waters rival those of Greece (which you can see from the town), trendy beach clubs could fool you into thinking you’re on the beaches of Tulum, and the outfits on the evening promenade will have you thinking it’s Milan Fashion Week.</p><p>You may also like: <a href='https://www.yardbarker.com/lifestyle/articles/22_meals_perfect_for_following_mediterranean_diet_101923/s1__38389200'>22 meals perfect for following Mediterranean diet</a></p>

Sarandë, Albania

The unofficial capital of the “Albanian Riveria,” Sarande feels like a world away from the rest of the country. Electric blue waters rival those of Greece (which you can see from the town), trendy beach clubs could fool you into thinking you’re on the beaches of Tulum, and the outfits on the evening promenade will have you thinking it’s Milan Fashion Week.

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<p>This ancient city is best known for the traditional white Ottoman homes that make up the center. The windows of the homes give the impression that you’re being watched as you arrive or stroll the riverfront promenade (a favorite evening activity for the locals.) There are also Byzantine churches, Ottoman mosques, and a castle with amazing views!</p><p><a href='https://www.msn.com/en-us/community/channel/vid-cj9pqbr0vn9in2b6ddcd8sfgpfq6x6utp44fssrv6mc2gtybw0us'>Follow us on MSN to see more of our exclusive lifestyle content.</a></p>

Berat, Albania

This ancient city is best known for the traditional white Ottoman homes that make up the center. The windows of the homes give the impression that you’re being watched as you arrive or stroll the riverfront promenade (a favorite evening activity for the locals.) There are also Byzantine churches, Ottoman mosques, and a castle with amazing views!

<p>This capital in a highly fought-over country is truly a bizarrely beautiful city to visit. Wide roads from the communist era (built to accommodate large armies) are now tiled pedestrian streets making strolling the city center the perfect way to spend the day. However, don’t be surprised by the imposing giant monuments all over, commissioned in 2014 as part of redevelopment aimed at attracting tourists. The city's best views are from the Fortress and Mount Vodno — each on opposite sides of the river. </p><p>You may also like: <a href='https://www.yardbarker.com/lifestyle/articles/25_cooking_hacks_you_wont_believe_you_didnt_already_know_110723/s1__34563020'>25 cooking hacks you won’t believe you didn’t already know</a></p>

Skopje, North Macedonia

This capital in a highly fought-over country is truly a bizarrely beautiful city to visit. Wide roads from the communist era (built to accommodate large armies) are now tiled pedestrian streets making strolling the city center the perfect way to spend the day. However, don’t be surprised by the imposing giant monuments all over, commissioned in 2014 as part of redevelopment aimed at attracting tourists. The city's best views are from the Fortress and Mount Vodno — each on opposite sides of the river. 

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<p>A true Balkan gem, the 138-square-mile lake is shared between Albania, Greece, and North Macedonia. However, it’s the Macedonian side that is the true beauty. Numerous villas and lakeside accommodations dot the shores, along with the UNESCO Saint Naum Monastery and a charming Old Town.</p><p><a href='https://www.msn.com/en-us/community/channel/vid-cj9pqbr0vn9in2b6ddcd8sfgpfq6x6utp44fssrv6mc2gtybw0us'>Follow us on MSN to see more of our exclusive lifestyle content.</a></p>

Lake Ohrid, North Macedonia

A true Balkan gem, the 138-square-mile lake is shared between Albania, Greece, and North Macedonia. However, it’s the Macedonian side that is the true beauty. Numerous villas and lakeside accommodations dot the shores, along with the UNESCO Saint Naum Monastery and a charming Old Town.

<p>Europe’s youngest country has what is potentially the coolest capital city. Pristina is home to a cute pedestrian area (the local government is currently trying to expand) and many interesting attractions like the futuristic National Library and NEWBORN monument that are redone every year. Additionally, the best coffee in the Balkans can be sampled at any of the city’s numerous cafes. </p><p>You may also like: <a href='https://www.yardbarker.com/lifestyle/articles/13_ben_jerrys_flavors_we_love_and_13_we_can_do_without_101923/s1__37671486'>13 Ben & Jerry’s flavors we love and 13 we can do without</a></p>

Pristina, Kosovo

Europe’s youngest country has what is potentially the coolest capital city. Pristina is home to a cute pedestrian area (the local government is currently trying to expand) and many interesting attractions like the futuristic National Library and NEWBORN monument that are redone every year. Additionally, the best coffee in the Balkans can be sampled at any of the city’s numerous cafes. 

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<p>Pristina may be the political and educational seat of Kosovo, but Prizren is the cultural and economic capital. Just an hour’s drive from the capital city, the Ottoman-style city feels like a world away. Visit one of the numerous mosques, hike to the city's top for amazing views, or just wander the Old Town and step back in time.</p><p><a href='https://www.msn.com/en-us/community/channel/vid-cj9pqbr0vn9in2b6ddcd8sfgpfq6x6utp44fssrv6mc2gtybw0us'>Did you enjoy this slideshow? Follow us on MSN to see more of our exclusive lifestyle content.</a></p>

Prizren, Kosovo

Pristina may be the political and educational seat of Kosovo, but Prizren is the cultural and economic capital. Just an hour’s drive from the capital city, the Ottoman-style city feels like a world away. Visit one of the numerous mosques, hike to the city's top for amazing views, or just wander the Old Town and step back in time.

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  1. 15 Reasons to Travel to Istria, Croatia

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  2. 15 Reasons to Travel to Istria, Croatia

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  4. Why visit the Istria Peninsula in Croatia?

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  1. TOP 10 Istra, Croatia

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  3. Croatia: Istria

  4. Top 5 Towns in Istria!

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COMMENTS

  1. Istria travel

    Continental Croatia meets the Adriatic in Istria (Istra to Croats), the heart-shaped, 3600-sq-km peninsula in the country's northwest. The bucolic interior of rolling hills and fertile plains attracts food- and culture-focused visitors to Istria's hilltop villages, rural hotels and farmhouse restaurants, while the indented coastline is enormously popular with the sun-and-sea set.

  2. 15 Reasons to Travel to Istria, Croatia

    As a result, Istria is a mélange of different cultures and has a very different feel from the Dalmatian Coast. Food is the center of life; locals paint their homes bright colors. And the Italian influence remains steady — from the many kinds of olive oil to the wild, animated conversations of locals.

  3. Istria itinerary: 15 unforgettable things to do in Istria (Croatia)

    The heart-shaped Istria peninsula in the north-west corner of Croatia offers unforgettable experiences like wineries, olive oil tastings, stunning Istria hilltop towns, history and activities such as paragliding, rock climbing and diving. In this Istria travel guide, I'll introduce you to all the best things to do in Istria.

  4. Official tourist website of the Istria Tourist Board

    The biggest article about Croatia in Decanter ever, Istria in focus. Istria has been nominated for the Wanderlust Travel Awards 2023. See all news. Experience Istria ... Travel to Istria; Brochures; Newsletter; Istria Tourist Board. About us; Business information; Contact; T. + 385 (0)52 452 797; F. + 385 (0)52 452 796

  5. Travel Guide to Istria Croatia

    The most visited region in Croatia, Istria is a heart-shaped peninsula located in the northern Adriatic. Istria is rolling hills, medieval hilltop towns, historical coastal towns, rocky coast, breathtaking views, tasty food, excellent local wines, and olive groves. Many visitors compared it with Tuscany, and sometimes call it "Tuscany with ...

  6. A Local's Guide to Travel in Istria, Croatia

    Alternatively, if you plan to visit Istria from elsewhere in Croatia, it can be reached by car or bus from Rijeka in about 2 hours, Zagreb in 3.5 hours, and Dalmatia in 7-12 hours (depending on how far south you are). Within Croatia, Flixbus (www.flixbus.com) connects Istria with Rijeka, Zagreb and Dalmatia.

  7. Istria Itinerary

    Green and Blue Istria Highlights. Day 1 - Rovinj - The Most Charming Town on the Istrian Peninsula. Day 2 - Pula and Cape Kamenjak. Day 3 - A Road Trip along the Coast of the Istrian Peninsula to Lim Fjord, Poreč and Novigrad. Day 4-5 - Oprtalj, Motovun, Grožnjan and Buje. Day 6 - Duga Uvula, Rabac and Labin.

  8. 4 days in Istria Itinerary (Croatia) Best Activities Guide

    All about Blue Istria and Green Istria - Visit Croatia. The terms "Blue Istria" and "Green Istria" are used to refer to two different regions in Istria, a peninsula in the Adriatic Sea that is shared by Croatia, Slovenia, and Italy. Blue Istria, also known as Coastal Istria, is the western coastal area of Istria, which includes popular tourist destinations such as Pula, Rovinj, and ...

  9. Istria Travel Guide

    Istria Travel Guide. Istria is one of Croatia's most enchanting regions ready to delight everyone from beach bums to history buffs, foodies to cyclists, winelovers to rock climbers. The long, indented coastline is dotted with beaches, a drowned valley, and fascinating coastal towns such as Rovinj, Pula and Porec.

  10. A Complete Travel Guide to Istria, Croatia

    When to visit Istria. Istria is a year-round destination due to its Mediterranean climate and closeness to many European countries. The best time to visit is during the shoulder seasons of spring (April to May) and autumn (September to October). The weather is mild and there are fewer tourists, making it easier to explore the region and enjoy ...

  11. Istria Travel Guide

    Rough Guides® is a trademark owned by Apa Group with its headquarters at 7 Bell Yard London WC2A 2JR, United Kingdom. Plan your visit to Istria, Croatia: find out where to go and what to do in Istria with Rough Guides. Read about itineraries, activities, places to stay and travel essentials and get inspiration from the blog in the best guide ...

  12. Istria Travel Guide For First Time Visitors

    When to visit. As with the rest of Croatia, the best time to visit Istria is between late Spring months of May and June, through to September and early October. Given Istria's proximity to Germany, Austria, Italy, and the Balkans it's a hugely popular summer holiday destination for southern Europeans, with peak months falling in July and ...

  13. The Ultimate Istria Travel Guide

    What to expect in Istria. The Istrian peninsula, situated in the west of Croatia, actually belongs to 3 countries - Croatia, Slovenia and Italy. This means there's a brilliant blend of cultures, history and cuisine to be found in Istria. In this guide, we'll be focusing on the largest portion of the peninsula which is owned by Croatia.

  14. Istria Travel Guide: Great Destinations & Things to Do

    Read our definitive Istria travel guide to discover the best destinations in the region, with our critic's pick of great things to do, restaurants, hotels, nightlife, bars and beaches in Pula ...

  15. The Ultimate Travel Guide to Istria, Croatia #shareistria @shareistria

    Istria Croatia, the largest peninsula in the Adriatic Sea, is a utopia of nature, food, history and culture.The seemingly endless rugged coastline and sandy beaches with crystal-clear blue waters lapping at their shores offer the best beach holidays in Croatia, while the inland regions of Central Istria provide a cooler, more tranquil retreat into green, rolling hills, vineyards, castles, and ...

  16. How to spend a weekend in Istria, Croatia's heart-shaped peninsula

    Three gourmet experiences to try. 1. Kozlovic. Croatia's wine industry has been growing in stature for a number of years, with Istria playing its part. This respected producer, located up at ...

  17. Best Places to Visit in Istria: 8 Charming Croatian Towns

    Experience the beauty of Croatia's Adriatic coastline and green heart. Here are 8 beautiful places in Istria - from fishing villages to ancient Roman ruins, clear water bays to olive groves.. About the authors: Maya and Sari of Chasing Lenscapes are two sisters with a passion for travel, photography, culture and food. Croatia has so many beautiful places to visit, but on our last trip, we ...

  18. Istria Travel Guide Resources & Trip Planning Info by Rick Steves

    Istria. Idyllic Istria, the wedge-shaped peninsula at Croatia's northwest corner, reveals itself gradually and seductively. Pungent truffles, Roman ruins, striking hill towns, quaint coastal villages, carefully cultivated food and wine, and breezy Italianate culture all compete for your attention.

  19. Istria, Croatia: An insider's guide

    Rovinj is in Istria, the peninsula that dangles like a bunch of grapes at the top of the Adriatic opposite Venice, once the dominant power here.Then came Napoleon and the Ottomans, and the region paused for breath as part of Italy between the wars before being absorbed into Yugoslavia. Habsburg families would holiday along the Istrian Riviera, taking the waters from stucco villas the colour of ...

  20. Istria is Croatia's Best-Kept Culinary Secret

    Istria Is Croatia's Hidden Gem — and the Melting Pot of the Adriatic. ... Adam Erace is an award-winning food and travel writer, restaurant critic, and cookbook author. He lives in Philadelphia ...

  21. Croatia's secret beaches and little Venices

    The Istria peninsula and the Kvarner Gulf are Croatia at its best. From Belle Epoque seaside resorts to Venetian-style waterfront villages, here's what to see.

  22. Popular Istria Vacation Itineraries

    Popular Istria Vacation Itineraries. Our suggested itineraries in Istria allow you to enjoy a multi-destination tour with ease. Our Istria vacation packages make traveling in Croatia and neighboring countries hassle-free. We take care of getting you from place to place, accommodation, excursions and activities.

  23. An Extra Day

    After spending time in Slovenia (Alps, Soca, Kojsko, Postojna), My husband and I (50ish, enjoy exploring other cultures) will be spending four nights in Rovinj as a base for seeing Istria. We then go to Plitvice and fly out of Zagreb.Our time in Croatia will be the first week of September.. I have one extra day, and I'm wondering if anyone would recommend any of these ideas:

  24. Travel Istria

    Travel guide to the Biggest Croatian Peninsula. Delivered to you by locals. ... Banjole is a small town in southern Istria located 5 kilometers south of Pula. ... Before, there weren't that many beach bars, only ugly, old bars that kept the same appearance since Croatia was another country. But lately, there are increasingly more beach bars ...

  25. Travel to Istria & Croatia with kids

    From exhilarating watersports to captivating wildlife encounters, Istria offers an abundance of family-friendly activities in the vicinity of Kempinski Hotel Adriatic, sure to create lasting memories of your seaside holiday. Plan your family adventure in Istria and discover the most exciting region in Croatia. 1. Hotel's Kids Playground

  26. 20 amazing places to visit in the Balkans

    Istria Peninsula, Croatia. Often skipped by visitors in favor of the ever-popular Dalmatian Coast, Istria is Croatia's best-kept secret! ... Add these 20 unusual U.S. destinations to your travel ...