cruise control blinking subaru

Why is Subaru Cruise Control Light Flashing on My Car Dashboard?

Driving can be fun, but long-distance driving can be fatiguing as you keep pressing the gas pedal to keep the car going at your desired speed. Thankfully, cars now feature cruise control — a system that lets drivers set a desired speed and relaxes their feet when traveling a long journey.

You can activate the system by pressing the cruise control button and the vehicle will keep you at the current speed. So you don’t have to depress the gas pedal to keep the car running. Cars with advanced cruise control systems use sensors at the front bumper to detect vehicles ahead of them and keep the car at a distance to prevent collision.

Like other system components, the cruise control does have issues. And these issues are common with Subaru cars. Most Subaru owners complain of Subaru cruise control light flashing on the dashboard as they drive.

Why does my Subaru cruise control light keep flashing?

The most common reason why the cruise control light is flashing on your Subaru is due to an electrical or mechanical problem. Remember, when the light is flashing, the cruise control system is disabled, so don’t try to turn it on because it won’t work.

In some other cases, the cruise control light may be flashing due to a defective or loose gas cap, a blown fuse for the cruise control, a failing brake pedal switch, or a defective vehicle speed sensor. Let’s have an in-depth look to see how these issues could cause cruise control light flashing on Subaru Outback and other Subaru models.

Blown fuses

The cruise control system consists of several electrical systems protected by a fuse. The fuse can blow up if there’s an electrical power issue, preventing the key components from failing. If that happens, it will disable the cruise control system. In some cases, the car computer will start flashing the cruise control light on the dashboard to notify you that there’s an underlying issue that needs urgent attention.

If you suspect the fuse is blown, replace it and see if that fixes the cruise control system and clear the blinking light on the dashboard.  If that resolves the problem but the fuse blows in no time and the light starts blinking again, you have other electrical issues. Contact your mechanic for a thorough diagnosis.

Defective speed sensor

The vehicle speed sensor is one of the essential components of the cruise control system. When you activate the cruise control, the onboard computer collects information from the speed sensor to know when to increase and decrease the engine speed.

The vehicle speed sensor is mounted at the tail end of your transmission, and if it malfunctions, the cruise control light will start blinking on the dashboard. The speed sensor is needed to ensure that the speedometer and the odometer work correctly, and without it, the cruise control system will be affected.

If you notice the cruise control light flashing and check engine light is on, check the vehicle speed sensor. A bad speed sensor triggers the check engine light and disables the cruise control system. This sensor cannot be repaired. So, if it is the root cause, the only solution is to replace it with a new one.

Loose gas cap

Believe it or not, the gas cap plays a crucial role in your vehicle’s overall functionality. The gas cap can affect the performance of the cruise control system. For instance, in Subarus, a loose gas cap can cause the cruise control light to blink as you drive. It can also trigger the check engine light to pop on the dashboard. So, a loose gas cap can cause the Subaru Forester check engine light with flashing cruise control to pop on the dashboard.

Faulty mechanical component

If you own an older Subaru car, the cruise control light could be flashing due to a faulty mechanical component. In older models, the cruise control system has a cable, connecting the throttle to an air actuator, which regulates the cable to keep the vehicle at the set speed settings.

If any of the mechanical components go bad, it can disable the system and trigger the blinking light on the dashboard.

Malfunctioning brake pedal switch

Under perfect conditions, the brake lights shine as you depress the brake pedal. There’s a component attached to the brake pedal — the brake pedal switch, which tells the brake lights to light up as you depress the pedal.

If the switch goes bad, the brake lights won’t know when you step on the brake pedal. But aside from this, a bad brake pedal switch can also affect the cruise control system.

When you activate the cruise control system, the system will deactivate and switch to manual mode whenever you step on the brake pedal. If the switch malfunctions, it may send wrong signals to the cruise control system, telling it the brake pedal is always depressed, preventing the cruise control system from turning on.

System malfunction

If your Subaru check engine light is flashing along with the cruise control light and the brake pedal switch, fuses, and vehicle speed sensors are good, you have a problem somewhere in the cruise control system.

To determine the root cause of the malfunction, you need a mechanic to diagnose the vehicle. The mechanic will inspect all cruise control components and may plug in a scan tool to pull out all the error codes in the vehicle.

It’s okay for the cruise control light to be on when you activate it, but if the light comes on when you are not using the cruise control, or the light starts blinking when you activate it, there’s a problem that needs to be addressed. In most cases, a flashing cruise control light on Subaru is accompanied by the engine warning light.

What to do if your Subaru cruise control light flashing?

Whenever the Subrau cruise control light starts flashing on the dashboard, the cruise control has malfunctioned or disabled. Hence, do not turn on the cruise control system. If the light starts flashing after getting gas, locate a safe spot and pull over. Check the gas cap and re-tighten it. It could be you did not secure the gas cap properly.

If that do not solve the problem, drive straight to your mechanic and have them diagnose and fix the problem.

Does the cruise control stop working when check engine light is on?

If the onboard computer detects a problem with your transmission or the engine, it will display the check engine light and disable certain vehicle functions, like the cruise control system, to prevent further damage until you address the issue.

Let’s be clear here; this does not mean that the PCM must disable the cruise control whenever it detects an issue with the engine or transmission. It will only disable the system if the issue is causing unstable engine performance.

Subaru Outback check engine light flashing, cruise control, and traction control light blinking can all come up due to engine performance issues. Contact your mechanic to proffer solutions to the problem. 

Final Words

To be precise, the flashing Subaru cruise control light shows there is a mechanical or electrical problem in your car. The cruise control light should be green and steady when you turn on the system. But if the light is flashing, turn off the cruise control until you address the problem.

If you are a DIYer, you can fix the issue yourself. But if you are not, contact your mechanic or dealership. The solution can be easy, quick, and quite affordable.

Osuagwu Solomon

Osuagwu Solomon is a certified mechanic with over a decade of experience in the mechanic garage, and he has over five years of experience in the writing industry. He started writing automotive articles to share his garage experience with car enthusiasts and armature mechanics. If he is not in the garage fixing challenging mechanical problems, he is writing automotive repair guides, buyer’s guides, and car and tools comparisons.

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Subaru cruise control light is flashing. Possible causes

Have you ever noticed your Subaru’s cruise control light flashing? It can be quite disconcerting. Don’t worry, it’s probably nothing serious.

In this article, you’ll learn what could be causing the flashing light and how to fix it. We’ll also discuss some other issues related to cruise control, so you can be better prepared if something similar happens in the future.

Key Takeaways

• The flashing cruise control light in a Subaru could be caused by various issues such as a faulty brake switch, malfunctioning speed sensor, or blown fuse.
• Other potential causes include a failing brake pedal switch, traction control system issues, malfunctioning mechanical components, and failed control module, sensor, or switch issues.
• Throttle actuation problems and dirty or malfunctioning cameras (in the case of adaptive cruise control) can also lead to a flashing cruise control light.
• Before visiting a service center, there are a few solutions to try such as replacing the brake switch, replacing the gas cap, disconnecting the positive battery cable and stepping on the brake pedal, and using an OBDII reader for diagnostic information. However, if the issue persists, it is recommended to visit an authorized Subaru service center for professional diagnosis and repair.

A brief explanation of the issue

If you’re driving a Subaru with cruise control, you may have noticed that the light on the dashboard is flashing . The flashing cruise control light can be caused by a number of issues, including:

• A faulty brake switch
• An electrical fault in the vehicle
• A malfunctioning cruise control system
• A loose or faulty connection in the wiring harness.

Troubleshooting the issue requires an experienced mechanic to diagnose and repair.

Causes of Flashing Cruise Control Light

If your Subaru’s cruise control light is flashing, it may be due to a malfunctioning speed sensor. This sensor is responsible for detecting the speed of the vehicle and relaying that information to the cruise control system. If the sensor is not working properly, it can cause the cruise control light to flash.

Another potential cause of a flashing cruise control light is a blown fuse. The fuse that controls the cruise control system may have blown, preventing it from functioning properly. Checking and replacing the blown fuse can resolve this issue.

A failing brake pedal switch can also be a culprit behind a flashing cruise control light. The brake pedal switch is responsible for detecting when the brake pedal is depressed, which is necessary for the cruise control system to disengage.

If the switch is failing, it may not properly detect when the brake pedal is pressed, leading to a flashing cruise control light.

Lastly, an issue with the traction control system can cause the cruise control light to flash. The traction control system is closely linked to the cruise control system, and if there is a problem with the traction control system, it can trigger the cruise control light to flash.

It is important to note that these are just potential causes and that a proper diagnosis should be done by a qualified technician to accurately identify the issue and determine the appropriate solution.

Malfunctioning speed sensor

You’re likely noticing your Subaru’s cruise control light flashing because the speed sensor is malfunctioning. This could cause a variety of issues such as:

• Reduced fuel economy
• Poor acceleration
• Unstable speed control
• Erratic RPMs.

It’s best to have the speed sensor inspected and replaced if necessary to ensure your car runs smoothly and efficiently.

Another possible cause of the Subaru cruise control light flashing is a blown fuse. A blown fuse is a sign that the circuit is overloaded and can’t handle the current running through it. In this case, the cruise control system may be shorting out and the fuse must be replaced in order to fix the issue.

Failing brake pedal switch

If the brake pedal switch has failed, it can also be the cause of the Subaru’s cruise control light flashing. The brake pedal switch is a safety feature that helps the cruise control system recognize when the brakes are being applied.

A malfunctioning switch can cause the cruise control system to not work properly, resulting in the light flashing.

Regular inspections of the switch can help identify any problems before they become dangerous. Replacing the switch when necessary can help ensure the cruise control system is working correctly and the flashing light isn’t a cause for alarm.

Traction control system issues

Besides a failing brake pedal switch, another potential cause of the Subaru’s cruise control light flashing is a malfunctioning traction control system. Here are four common culprits:

• Faulty wheel speed sensors
• Worn control unit
• Low tire pressure
• Damaged brake pedal switch.

A malfunctioning traction control system can cause the cruise control light to flash, so it’s important to have it checked by a professional to ensure safe driving .

Malfunctioning mechanical components

Apart from a faulty brake pedal switch, malfunctioning mechanical components can also be responsible for your Subaru’s cruise control light flashing. This includes a problem with the throttle control motor, the cruise control switch, the brake light switch, the cruise control actuator, and the ECU.

Malfunctioning of any of these parts can lead to a flashing cruise control light, and it’s important to get the issue resolved quickly as it can adversely affect the performance of your vehicle.

Failed control module, sensor, or switch issues

Aside from the mechanical components, a failed control module, sensor, or switch can also cause your Subaru cruise control light to flash. If any of these components fail, the cruise control light will start to flash. Here are a few common sources of this issue:

• Electrical connections wearing away
• Corroded wiring
• Malfunctioning switches
• Burned out control module.

It’s important to have your car checked by a qualified mechanic to determine the exact cause of the flashing light.

Throttle actuation problems

Frequently, issues with throttle actuation can also be the culprit behind a Subaru’s flashing cruise control light. When the cruise control light is flashing, it usually means the throttle actuator is in need of service. It can be caused by a malfunctioning throttle position sensor , a bad throttle body, or a faulty electronic throttle control unit.

In any of these cases, the throttle needs to be repaired or replaced. Proper troubleshooting is essential to identify the source of the issue and to ensure a proper repair.

Dirty or malfunctioning cameras (adaptive cruise control)

Continuing on from issues with throttle actuation, dirty or malfunctioning cameras can also be a cause of Subaru’s flashing cruise control light. Reasons include:

• Obstructions blocking the camera’s view
• Damaged camera lens
• Malfunctioning of the camera’s hardware
• Problems with the car’s software.

Dirt, grime, and corrosion can also be factors in camera failure. Be sure to have a professional check the camera’s condition to avoid further issues.

Solutions for Flashing Cruise Control Light

If you’re having trouble with your Subaru’s flashing cruise control light, don’t worry. There are several solutions you can try to get your car back to normal.

• Hook up an OBDII reader to get valuable information.
• Visit the service center at your nearest authorized Subaru dealer.
• Check or replace the brake switch.
• Even disconnect the positive battery cable for 10 minutes and step on the brake pedal for a minute.

Hook up an OBDII reader to get valuable information

Once you’ve hooked up an OBDII reader to your Subaru, you can start to get some valuable information that can help you solve why the cruise control light is flashing. It can:

• Show any trouble codes
• Help you diagnose electrical problems
• Diagnose the engine light
• Provide you with data about your vehicle’s performance.

With this information, you can get a better idea of why your cruise control light is flashing and how to fix it.

Visit the service center at your nearest authorized Subaru dealer

If you’re still unsure what the issue is after hooking up an OBDII reader, then you may want to consider visiting the service center at your nearest authorized Subaru dealer.

The staff at the center have the expertise to diagnose and repair any issues with your vehicle, and they’ll be able to provide you with insight into why the cruise control light is flashing.

They may even be able to suggest a repair or adjustment that can resolve the issue.

Taking your car to the service center is the best way to get the right advice and a quality repair.

Check/replace brake switch

Carrying on from the previous suggestion, the next solution might be to check or replace the brake switch, as it can sometimes be the source of the cruise control light flashing.

To do this, here are 4 steps to follow:

• Find the brake switch and disconnect the wires.
• Check the continuity of the switch with a multimeter.
• If the switch is defective, replace it with a new one.
• Reconnect the wires to the switch and test the cruise control light.

Disconnect the positive battery cable for 10 minutes and step on the brake pedal for a minute

Once the gas cap has been replaced, another solution to try if the cruise control light is still flashing is to disconnect the positive battery cable for 10 minutes and step on the brake pedal for a minute.

To do this:

• Find the positive battery cable.
• Unhook the cable and wait 10 minutes.
• Re-connect the cable.
• Step on the brake pedal for a minute.

This should reset the cruise control light and get your Subaru back on the road.

Final Words

It is important to check why your Subaru’s cruise control light is flashing in order to avoid any potential issues.

Taking the time to diagnose the cause of the flashing light will ensure that your car runs smoothly and safely.

Importance of checking the issue

It’s essential to get your Subaru checked as soon as possible if the cruise control light is flashing. Ignoring the issue could potentially lead to a more serious problem, such as:

• A malfunction in the car’s braking system.
• Damage to the car’s electronic components.
• An unexpected increase in fuel consumption .
• Unintended acceleration.

If you notice the cruise control light flashing, don’t hesitate to take your car to the nearest mechanic. Failing to address the issue can have costly consequences.

Be sure to get your car checked out as soon as possible.

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Home & renters insurance, car repair estimates, read car content, jerry data & research, why is my subaru’s cruise control light flashing.

The cruise control on my Subaru hasn’t been working for a few days now. When I try to turn it on, the cruise control light just flashes. Why is this happening and what can I do about it?

• Malfunctioning speed sensor
• Loose gas cap
• Failing brake pedal switch
• Traction control system issues
• Malfunctioning mechanical components (in older Subarus)

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2016 Crosstrek flashing cruise control icon and steady check engine light on at 99K miles

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So my 2016 Crosstrek hit 99K miles 2 days ago. Its CPO to 100K miles so I'm very close to the warranty expiring. The day after rolling 99K the check engine light came on and the flashing cruise control icon came on. First off, I'm trying to eliminate any possible minor issues. I had a mechanic do a general scan of error codes and it came up as a possible "valve misfire". Unfortunately, I forgot to get the exact code for it. I contacted the dealership and they said if the car hasn't had the spark plugs changed it could be that. I haven't had the car tuned up (incl. spark plug changed) since I purchased it 14 months ago. But wondering if the mechanic's code of a "valve misfire" is more related to the engine than spark plugs? I've been holding off on getting the car placed for a tune-up service because I'm currently short on funds. So I'm trying to minimize the losses as much as I can and seeing where I should first start in troubleshooting this issue. Obviously, if it's an engine/drivetrain issue I'm covered through the warranty. By the way, would this include any emissions issues as well? As for the flashing cruise control light.. from what I've read not many Subaru owners seem to know why this comes on along with the check engine light. If anyone has had experience with this and got it resolved I would greatly appreciate some guidance. I'm hoping for more "FixIt" answers than the "warning lights" going away on its own. ??  

Valve misfire?I never heard of that.I think you mean cylinder misfire.This would also have a number saying what cylinder is misfiring.If they haven't been changed yet then I would say it's about time for a set of spark plugs even if that's not the cause.The most common cause for a misfire is a bad coil which plugs on to the spark plug.To find out what the issue is,rescan the codes to see which cylinder is misfiring.Remove the coil from that cylinder and replace it with the coil that's easiest to get to and place the other coil where that one came from.If the misfire changes cylinders then the coil is your problem.Good luck.  

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Subaru Cruise Control Light Flashing – Main Causes

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Engine Control Unit

Malfunctioned speed sensor, faulty fuse, a problem with the solenoid valves, the catalytic converter is failing, an issue with the gas cap, a problem with plug wires, faulty battery.

Driving continuously without stopping to rest can drain your energy and even harm your car. But these problems have been solved for Subaru by introducing a cruise control system .

This system enables you to set the engine to a certain speed, thus saving you energy since you won’t have to hit the accelerator now and then.

It also warns you that specific components in the car have malfunctioned by producing a  flashing light .

But what exactly are these components that make the Subaru cruise control light start flashing? Let’s take a look!

Are you using a Subaru 2005 or a newer model? If so, then you should pay attention to the light.

It is because these Subaru models are equipped with an engine control unit. This unit diagnoses problems in your car and relays them to you by sending a code.

This code is usually accompanied by a check engine light or flashing light from the cruise control system.

There are about 200 codes in these Subaru models, and each one of them indicates a certain level of problem in the car.

Therefore, the flashing light does not necessarily have to worry you since they are merely communicating an issue in the car, which may not be serious at all.

To fix the flashing light or check the engine light caused by an engine control unit, you will first check what the code means.

If the code implies a less severe issue that you can quickly fix, then do so and proceed to delete the code using an OBDII reader.

If the code indicates that your Subaru has a severe problem, then tow it to the mechanic, who will fix the issue.

The cruise control system is linked to a speed sensor that controls how it functions. The sensor relays a signal to the control system to increase or reduce the car’s speed.

However, this sensor can malfunction, thus making the control system not register any of your commands.

It will be shown by the check engine light coming on or the Subaru cruise control light flashing.

The speed sensor is an essential component that needs immediate fixing when faulty. It is because an issue with this sensor can affect the functioning of the car’s speedometer.

Unfortunately, it is impossible to repair a damaged speed sensor: hence you will have to purchase and install a new one.

Fuses safeguard the electrical components in a cruise control system. They act as shields that, when damaged, allow very little or no current to reach the control system.

It will make the cruise control light flash until the issue has been corrected.

Luckily, you can quickly fix the problem by replacing the damaged fuse.

However, if the lights continue flashing, it means that the issue is beyond the fuses, and you will have to check the other components in the cruise control system.

Your car’s engine has solenoid valves that control the flow of fluids such as oil. It does so by providing the pressure that pumps the fluid.

These solenoid valves can malfunction due to low fluid or extreme electric current. They will cause the check engine to come on when faulty, making the cruise control light flash.

Try topping up the fluid to its correct amount to sort out this problem.

But if the solenoid valves have malfunctioned due to electric spikes, the only way to resolve the issue is by replacing the damaged components.

The Subaru models have been designed to alert you whenever there is a problem with the powertrain system.

Therefore, a failing catalytic convertor usually makes the cruise control light flash. In most cases, this light is accompanied by a check engine light coming on.

Many things can make the catalytic converter fail. They include a failing fuel injector, wrong fuel mixture, a problem with the check valve, an issue with the oxygen sensor, etc.

So, it would be best to diagnose the exact problem first before deciding to replace or repair it.

If the cruise control light is flashing and the check engine light is on, then the chances are high that your Subaru Forester has an issue with the gas gap.

The gas cap plays a vital role in the engine. For instance, it maintains pressure and holds the gas fumes in the fuel tank.

In most cases, the gas cap is loose, thus letting out the gas. It happens when you refuel the car and fail to tighten it correctly.

To know if the gas cap is causing the issue, try starting the car after refueling it while observing the check engine and cruise control lights.

If the check engine light comes on right away, it confirms that the gas cap is loose. You can then replace the gas cap with a new one.

A problem with plug wires can also make the check engine light come on and consequently cause a flashing light in the cruise control system.

The plug wires supply the spark plugs with voltage, which will, in turn, ignite the air and fuel in the combustion chamber, thus making the engine run.

Therefore, if the plug wires malfunction, the engine will supply low power to the Subaru car. The check engine will sense this problem and alert you by turning on its light.

If the flashing light or the check light is accompanied by reduced speed, it is more likely that the plug wires are faulty.

You can then check the plug wires to confirm that they are causing the issue. If your findings are positive, it would be best to replace them since worn plug wires are difficult to repair.

Even though the Subaru battery has been designed to last for a long time, specific mechanical issues can make it malfunction.

Also, as the battery gets old , the amount of voltage it supplies reduces. Therefore, if you are using an old model of Subaru, its battery may have gone faulty.

A faulty battery will cause the engine to misfire, making the check engine light come on and the cruise control system start flashing. Fortunately, it is easy to diagnose a faulty battery.

All you have to do is check if the battery can charge your phone. If your phone’s battery percentage does not go up, you have a bad battery that you should replace.

The cruise control and check engine light play an essential role in your Subaru. For instance, when the cruise control light starts flashing, it tells you there is an issue with your car.

Such problems may include a faulty battery, loose gas cap, damaged fuse, faulty brake pedal, etc. Therefore, it is vital to heed the two components to ensure that your car functions well.

It is possible that the issue causing the lights to come on is minor and can easily be fixed by simply following your Subaru manual. Hence, you can check it for a solution before visiting the mechanic.

With comprehensive experience in writing exceptional quality articles and blogs about cars and related stuff, Daniel is one of the finest bloggers and a hardcore car lover we have. He is an ASE certified technician with an across-the-board experience of 10 years in the industry. He could not help tinkering with anything he got his hands on from a young age, which led to his remarkable career in the automotive repair industry.

When he is not under any hood, you can find him on the water or in the woods to pursue his passion for hunting and fishing. He has been writing for multiple sectors and is a regular contributor to several publications.

He currently owns a Nissan 300ZX TT and a Pearl Yellow but plans to upgrade it to 550 HP. His favorites include the Koenigsegg CCX and Lamborghini Diablo 6.0 VT, but for him, the Ferrari 360 Spider is one of the sexiest cars that exists to date.

Being an avid world traveler, he has spent most of his time analyzing the automotive markets, latest technology, and local favorites to enhance his knowledge base. He is currently living in North Caroline, where it’s all about food and coffee and, of course, cars.

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2009 - Engine, traction control & a flashing cruise control light illuminated on my dash?

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While driving yesterday I had the engine light , traction control light & a flashing cruise control light illuminate on my dash. While the traction control & cruise control lights are on I am unable to use either of these functions. The car feels to be running normal. Any ideas & advice on what might be going on would be greatly appreciated.  

That happens because you have a malfunction. Pull your codes, fix the problem(s), clear the codes and the lights will go out and normal operation restored. Depends on the problem how bad it is. Could be simple enough as to just clear your codes and carry on.  

As @donkpow said, pull your codes. Most auto parts stores will do this for you if you don't have your own code reader. Subaru disables the cruise control and flashes all those lights so you don't ignore that the Check Engine Light is on. If you aren't sure what the codes mean, post them here. Even if you think you do know what they mean, post them here. Someone here might be able to steer you to a cheaper or easier fix than what a shop might recommend.  

05, 06-09: How To Read Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs)

I had this happen over a year ago while passing someone on an uphill mountain pass. The car hit the rev limiter for 2-3 seconds and those same lights came on. Checked the codes and it said it was a cylinder (4?) misfire. I cleared it and have not had any issues since.  

I don’t have a decoder but I followed a tip whereas you turn the ignition on ( one click ) then press the odometer button 3 times. The code that came up was - 5 - on can anyone tell more about what that means please?  

That is not a code. Either that method does not work for your model or there is another technique I strongly recommend you buy a cheap code reader off Amazon, something like an Autel. It will allow you to see codes, pending codes and let you clear them. With a code you can better diagnose your issue.  

I had the same thing happen on my 2009 Forester. When I took it in to read the error codes, there wasn’t any power to the OBDB port so they couldn’t read anything. So, I went home and checked every fuse under the dash - none blown. Then I checked all the fuses under the hood and found a blown 7.5 amp fuse. Replaced it and all is well. According to the diagram, this fuse goes to the alternator - which I had replaced just a couple months earlier.  

I had the same issue was the forward o2 sensor on the manifold changed it and been good since  

Forward meaning the one facing forward down in front of the car ?  

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Blinking cruise control and odometer

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Has anyone has an issue with their cruise control and odometer start blinking while you're driving? My 2017 is doing this during long drives. If I pull over and turn off the car everything goes back to normal. The car is at the dealership but they are unable to replicate the issue so they can't do anything to fix. Imagine that. Thanks  

it's her way of tell you she "tired" or she a ladies break. this has been covered before. https://www.impreza5.com/forum/138-5th-gen-impreza-issues-problems/2482-cruise-control-flashing.html  

Thanks. I called the dealership this morning with the tsb number and the tech is going to review. Hopefully they can fix that and replace my head unit.  

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Cruise control light blinking

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So, I have my cruise control light blinking on and off without any other issues or check engine light going off to help me navigate the problem and I have no idea what it might be. I did hit a pretty bad pit hole today but the cruise control light only started to blink a few hours after hitting it. I know that the module won’t work if the light is blinking so obviously I can’t use my cruise control but it’s really annoying to see it blink. It comes on a minute or two after I start the car up. Does anyone know where I should start looking for diagnosing this. My car is a 2017 Subaru Wrx 6speed and is modified with an intake, Jpipe from the downpipe, highflow cats, EBCS and EGR/TGV delete with a protune produce 295hp/ 320tq  

Diagnosing a P0500 (Dash: Err SS); Rare problem: failed...

Oh wow, I was not even aware that the cruise control module can actually throw and store codes. That’s really good to know, I’ll be sure to buy that special OBD2 cord and scan the cruise control system with that software to see the code that my cruise control is throwing.  

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Troubleshooting Common e-Bike Problems: The Ultimate Guide

Maintaining an ebike in good working condition can be tricky business, especially if you’re a newbie ebike rider. 

An ebike will work smoothly only when all the parts are functioning properly. Luckily, not every hiccup with your electric bike means there’s a major problem. Sometimes, it just needs a bit of DIY maintenance.

Not to mention, many ebike owners don’t live near an electric bike service shop, so getting the job done themselves can be a lifesaver. In any case, knowing how to troubleshoot common problems of ebikes is valuable information for anyone owning an electric bike or thinking about buying one. 

In this article, we’re sharing a full guide on how to troubleshoot common ebike problems to help you get back on the road in no time. So without further ado, let’s get started!

1. Troubleshooting the Battery

If your ebike won’t start or keeps cutting off, the issue can often be traced back to the battery. Even if you’re just doing a routine troubleshooting session, the battery on your ebike should be the first component to inspect. Here are some ways to troubleshoot battery problems:

Check the Voltage

The first thing you need to do is check the battery voltage. The LEDs on the control panel and the ebike should light up, if this doesn’t happen, then there’s a chance that the battery hasn’t been charged or there may have been a blown fuse. 

Checking the battery voltage can give you a clue as to whether or not the battery has been damaged.

You can check the voltage of an ebike using a voltmeter by simply attaching the prongs to the positive and negative sides of the prongs on the battery. Another way to get a reading is to fasten the voltmeter directly into the charger connector on the battery.

If you find that the battery power dies out too quickly, then the first you should do is determine how long the battery pack has been left without charging. Accordingly, you’ll be facing one of 2 scenarios:

• If the battery pack hasn’t been charged for 6 months or less, you may be able to recharge it successfully.
• If the battery pack hasn’t been charged for more than 6 months, then it’s probably defective. 

If you know that your ebike has been sitting in the garage for some time without recharging and when you try to start it, the battery loses power too quickly, then it’s safe to assume that the battery is defective and will require a replacement. 

If you’ve charged your ebike battery for less than 8 hours, try letting it charge for 8 hours and then check if the electric bike can run at full speed. We highly recommended not to leave the battery charger plugged into your electric bike for more than 12 hours. This is to avoid the risk of overcharging or damaging the battery if the charger malfunctions.

Check the Battery Charger

While you’re at it, you should also check the battery charger. You don’t need any tools to get this done; just plug the battery charger into the wall and see if one or more of the indicator lights are illuminated. 

If the indicator light doesn’t illuminate or even blink on and off when the charger is plugged into the wall, then you’re dealing with a defective charger. To test the output voltage of your battery charger, you can use a multimeter or voltmeter.

The voltage reading must be a few volts higher than the battery charger’s rated voltage. If the output on the battery charger is lower than the battery charger’s rated voltage or if it’s zero, then the battery charger is defective.

For example, if your ebike is equipped with a 36V battery but the voltmeter reads 10 volts, then the battery is faulty. In this case, it’s a good idea to check if your ebike is still under warranty. 

If so, then you can contact the manufacturer and file a warranty claim for replacement parts. But if not, then you should buy a new battery.

If the voltmeter reads a surface charge of more than 36V, then the battery is fully charged and you can try troubleshooting another component.

Check the Battery Management System

If your ebike keeps cutting off, one of the most common reasons for such hiccups is a failing battery. If your battery pack is particularly choking when under load, then the issue could be that the battery management system is shutting it off to protect your battery pack from overeating.

Typically, the battery management system will cut off the power if it senses the battery draining too fast below certain safe levels.

Often than not, a severe voltage drop means that one or more cells in your battery pack have been damaged. There are several reasons for such malfunction including aging, too frequent charge cycles, improper battery management, and a manufacturing defect. 

If you’re experiencing power cuts with a new ebike that you’re just starting to use, it might be because the pack has been sized, engineered, or manufactured with less than the required high current capacity for supporting heavy loads.

When cells fail, it’s usually due to being under severe loads. One way to solve this is by dropping the assist level and pedaling a little harder when going up steep inclines or hills. This should reduce the load on your battery.

Another thing to keep an eye out for is the possibility of your battery arriving already pre-aged. This can happen in lower-quality batteries that are typically installed in cheaper bikes because they’re made by recycling batteries from other older devices such as laptops.

To find out if your battery is the culprit behind the repeated choking of your ebike, try using it on a different reliable electric bike with the same setup as yours. The same problem should happen if the battery is faulty. 

If you’ve owned your ebike for a few years and you’ve used it almost every day, the frequent rides may have just pushed the battery pack towards the natural end of its lifespan. Here, buying a new pack from the manufacturer will solve the issue.

Check the Battery Prongs

A failing battery can be the result of improper lining up of its prongs. If this is the case, the electrical circuit can’t be completed so no power will be produced.

Using a wrench, you can easily fix this issue by slightly bending the prongs to realign them into the correct position.

Check the Battery Charger Port

Additionally, you need to check the battery charger port. Be sure to first unplug the battery charger if it’s plugged into the wall. 

Next, plug the battery charger into the battery charger port on your ebike and observe the indicator light on the battery charger. If the indicator light illuminates when the charger is plugged into the electric bike, then the wiring and the wiring connectors going to the charger port as well the charger port itself are working.

If you have a voltmeter or a multimeter, you can test the voltage of the battery charger port. The level of the voltage measured at the charging port must be the same as the one rater for the battery pack. 

Alternatively, you can test the battery pack on another reliable electric bike where you ride the ebike at full throttle on flat ground. Note how long the battery pack will last. 

On flat ground, most ebikes have a battery range somewhere between 30 and 45 minutes. If your battery pack lasts less than 30 to 20 minutes, chances are it’s worn out and you have to replace it. Severely worn out batteries have a maximum range of 5 to 10 minutes.

• If your ebike features a headlight, you can perform a load test by fastening an arch-shaped piece of cardboard over the headlight so you can see the beam from the headlight while riding.

From here, you can fully charge the battery pack and ride your ebike with the headlight on. Keep an eye out for the headlight’s beam shining on the cardboard. 

If the battery is good, the headlight will dim just a bit when you give the ebike full throttle. If the beam on the headlight dims severely when you give the ebike full throttle, then you’ll know that the battery is worn out.

• If you can get your hands on a multimeter, you can perform a battery load test while your ebike is running. Start by fully charging the battery, then jack up the rear wheel by connecting the multimeter to the battery. Give the electric bike full throttle while engaging the brake on the rear without locking it up. 

When you engage the rear brake, the battery pack will go through a load so you can then read the voltage and find out how much it drops. If the battery is working well, the voltage will drop by a few volts only. Otherwise, the voltage will massively drop. 

2. Troubleshooting the Brake Motor Inhibitor

If you’ve dropped your ebike, then a part of the handlebars may have been damaged. You can easily spot this by visually inspecting your handlebars and brake levers for signs of any cosmetic damage. 

If you find that the brakes have been pulled back because of damage and can’t seem to break free, this will cause the motor inhibitor switch to stay turned on. To get your ebike running again, you’ll need to fix the jammed brake levers.

If the damage is significant, then the switch itself may require replacing. Such a process will need the skills of an expert electric bike mechanic.

• Some people may suggest that you use your controller to figure out which wires are for the brake inhibitor so you can disconnect them completely to get rid of the problem. However, we stress that you never do that as it can be extremely dangerous on the road.

If your brakes aren’t functioning properly, then you should check the shoes or the brake pads for signs of wear. If they’re damaged or worn out, replace them right away. You should also check the brake cable tension and adjust it if necessary.

If you find the brake pads or the brake shoes in good condition then you may want to tighten the brake cable adjuster on the brake lever or the brake itself until the brake becomes more responsive. Make sure that the brakes aren’t rubbing on the rotor or rim when the brake lever is released. 

Once you’ve adjusted the brake cable adjusters to the end of their limits, screw them all the way in. Then, tighten the brake cable by loosening the brake cable stopper, pulling the brake cable tight, and re-tightening the brake cable stopper. 

You can make a final adjustment to the brake cable tension by unthreading the brake cable adjuster until you get the right tension. 

• It’s crucial to your and others safety that you maintain the braking system; keep discs and rims clean and straight, promptly replace any worn-out brake shoes and pads, replace frayed or worn cables and housings, and lightly lubricate brake pivot points.

3. Troubleshooting the Controller

Think of the controller as the processor of your ebike operating system. As a result, it’s also one of the most common reasons why your electric bike may not be working properly. 

The controller’s job is to take input signals from all the controls and sensors on the ebike, analyze them, and then determine the best way to transfer the power coming from the battery to the motor.

Since the controller serves a huge yet sensitive purpose in the functioning of an ebike, the slightest technical glitch could ruin the established balance in any aspect including power transfer and distribution. 

Inspect your controller for any wires that may be loose, disconnected, or misconnected. If you do see disconnected cables, reconnect them to the proper port. In general, the wires should be color-coded so you can match the same color wire with the same color the outlet.

If the controller doesn’t work at all, make sure that the power switch is turned on. Also, check the fuse or circuit breaker.

If your ebike comes with a circuit breaker, you can reset the circuit breaker by pushing the breaker. However, you should be aware of any problems that may pop up as circuit breakers are designed to protect the system and there could already be an ongoing problem that’ll seriously damage components.

For ebikes with a fuse, you can simply remove it and hold it against some light to see if it’s burned out. If so, replace the fuse.

4. Troubleshooting the Throttle

A lot of ebikes on the market come with throttle control. If you overuse the throttle control, it may get stuck when pulled back and won’t return to the off position on its own.

If you do this repeatedly, the throttle will eventually loosen or get damaged. If this happens, you’ll tend to experience power cut-offs. 

The safest way to use the twist throttle is to pull it back and then slowly release it back into its original position once you’re done.

If the throttle is feeling loose or missing out on strokes from time to time, you can just replace it after testing whether or not it’s receiving steady power. This way you’ll know for sure that your throttle is to blame.

5. Troubleshooting the Pedal Assist

Malfunctions of the power or pedal assist system on your ebike may cause issues associated with pulsating or occasional power cut-offs. Different ebike models feature different pedal assist systems; some are built around the front sprocket chainring while others are built into the bottom bracket.

If you’ve recently made mechanical adjustments to the wheels, pedals, sprockets, derailleurs, and so on, this could be why you’re encountering power supply hiccups. Another reason for such issues could be the ring of magnets on the front sprocket; the sensors may be out of alignment due to being dirty or knocked around.

You can adjust the pedal-assist magnet position using a flathead screwdriver to push the disc nearer to the sensors. If this doesn’t work and you’re having a hard time determining whether or not your pedal assist system is faulty, it’s best to take your ebike to an electric bike service shop so they can remove and replace the faulty parts.

6. Troubleshooting the Motor Connections

As we mentioned earlier, loose wire connections are one of the most common reasons why you may be experiencing issues with your ebike. As such, the wires connected to the rear hub motor can often get loose, frayed, or damaged over time. 

If the wires are loose, you’ll probably have to replace the loose or damaged portions. Check if there are any melted or burned wires connected to the rear hub motor. 

Melted or burned wires are a sign of overheating. If the insulation on the copper coil wires melts due to overheating, occasional short circuits may occur causing the power to cut off. 

If the coils in the motor keep overheating, you’re potentially risking the motor’s integrity and may end up having to replace the motor to avoid damaging the controller.

Check the motor’s power transmission system for missing parts. Worn-out, missing, or damaged components could lead to problems in power transmission resulting in unwanted interruptions of power flow. 

There you have it, a comprehensive guide on how to troubleshoot common problems of ebikes. Even though DIY maintenance can be easy to perform, it’s still best to bring your electric bike to a service shop if you’re not fully confident in your skills.

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Ch. 9 The Development of Russia

Ivan i and the rise of moscow, learning objective.

• Outline the key points that helped Moscow become so powerful and how Ivan I accomplished these major victories
• Moscow was considered a small trading outpost under the principality of Vladimir-Suzdal into the 13th century.
• Power struggles and constant raids under the Mongol Empire’s Golden Horde caused once powerful cities, such as Kiev, to struggle financially and culturally.
• Ivan I utilized the relative calm and safety of the northern city of Moscow to entice a larger population and wealth to move there.
• Alliances between Golden Horde leaders and Ivan I saved Moscow from many of the raids and destruction of other centers, like Tver.

A rival city to Moscow that eventually lost favor under the Golden Horde.

Grand Prince of Vladimir

The title given to the ruler of this northern province, where Moscow was situated.

The Rise of Moscow

Moscow was only a small trading outpost in the principality of Vladimir-Suzdal in Kievan Rus’ before the invasion of Mongol forces during the 13th century. However, due to the unstable environment of the Golden Horde, and the deft leadership of Ivan I at a critical time during the 13th century, Moscow became a safe haven of prosperity during his reign. It also became the new seat of power of the Russian Orthodox Church.

Ivan I (also known as Ivan Kalita) was born around 1288 to the Prince of Moscow, Daniil Aleksandrovich. He was born during a time of devastation and upheaval in Rus’. Kiev had been overtaken by the invading Mongol forces in 1240, and most of the Rus’ principalities had been absorbed into the Golden Horde of the Mongol Empire by the time Ivan was born. He ascended to the seat of Prince of Moscow after the death of his father, and then the death of his older brother Yury.

Ivan I. He was born around 1288 and died in either 1340 or 1341, still holding the title of Grand Prince of Vladimir.

Ivan I stepped into a role that had already been expanded by his predecessors. Both his older brother and his father had captured nearby lands, including Kolomna and Mozhaisk. Yury had also made a successful alliance with the Mongol leader Uzbeg Khan and married his sister, securing more power and advantages within the hierarchy of the Golden Horde.

Ivan I continued the family tradition and petitioned the leaders of the Golden Horde to gain the seat of Grand Prince of Vladimir. His other three rivals, all princes of Tver, had previously been granted the title in prior years. However they were all subsequently deprived of the title and all three aspiring princes also eventually ended up murdered. Ivan I, on the other hand, garnered the title from Khan Muhammad Ozbeg in 1328. This new title, which he kept until his death around 1340, meant he could collect taxes from the Russian lands as a ruling prince and position his tiny city as a major player in the Vladimir region.

Moscow’s Rise

During this time of upheaval, the tiny outpost of Moscow had multiple advantages that repositioned this town and set it up for future prosperity under Ivan I. Three major contributing factors helped Ivan I relocate power to this area:

• It was situated in between other major principalities on the east and west so it was often protected from the more devastating invasions.
• This relative safety, compared to Tver and Ryazan, for example, started to bring in tax-paying citizens who wanted a safe place to build a home and earn a livelihood.
• Finally, Moscow was set up perfectly along the trade route from Novgorod to the Volga River, giving it an economic advantage from the start.

Ivan I also spurred on the growth of Moscow by actively recruiting people to move to the region. In addition, he bought the freedom of people who had been captured by the extensive Mongol raids. These recruits further bolstered the population of Moscow. Finally, he focused his attention on establishing peace and routing out thieves and raiding parties in the region, making for a safe and calm metaphorical island in a storm of unsettled political and military upsets.

Kievan Rus’ 1220-1240. This map illustrates the power dynamics at play during the 13th century shortly before Ivan I was born. Sarai, the capital of the Golden Horde, sat to the southeast, while Moscow (not visible on this map) was tucked up in the northern forests of Vladimir-Suzdal.

Ivan I knew that the peace of his region depended upon keeping up an alliance with the Golden Horde, which he did faithfully. Moscow’s increased wealth during this era also allowed him to loan money to neighboring principalities. These regions then became indebted to Moscow, bolstering its political and financial position.

In addition, a few neighboring cities and villages were subsumed into Moscow during the 1320s and 1330s, including Uglich, Belozero, and Galich. These shifts slowly transformed the tiny trading outpost into a bustling city center in the northern forests of what was once Kievan Rus’.

Russian Orthodox Church and The Center of Moscow

Ivan I committed some of Moscow’s new wealth to building a splendid city center and creating an iconic religious setting. He built stone churches in the center of Moscow with his newly gained wealth. Ivan I also tempted one of the most important religious leaders in Rus’, the Orthodox Metropolitan Peter, to the city of Moscow. Before the rule of the Golden Horde the original Russian Orthodox Church was based in Kiev. After years of devastation, Metropolitan Peter transferred the seat of power to Moscow where a new Renaissance of culture was blossoming. This perfectly timed transformation of Moscow coincided with the decades of devastation in Kiev, effectively transferring power to the north once again.

Peter of Moscow and scenes from his life as depicted in a 15th-century icon. This religious leader helped bring cultural power to Moscow by moving the seat of the Russian Orthodox Church there during Ivan I’s reign.

One of the most lasting accomplishments of Ivan I was to petition the Khan based in Sarai to designate his son, who would become Simeon the Proud, as the heir to the title of Grand Prince of Vladimir. This agreement a line of succession that meant the ruling head of Moscow would almost always hold power over the principality of Vladimir, ensuring Moscow held a powerful position for decades to come.

• Boundless World History. Authored by : Boundless. Located at : https://www.boundless.com/world-history/textbooks/boundless-world-history-textbook/ . License : CC BY-SA: Attribution-ShareAlike

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• Gen 4: 2010-2014

Check Engine Light / Cruise Control Light / Brake Light....

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2013 Outback 3.6R Limited with the Backup Camera Screen Display. No Eyesight. Approximately 44,300 miles. My wife was driving the vehicle earlier this afternoon when the amber "Check Engine" message on the dashboard illuminated solid, the amber Cruise Control icon on the dashboard illuminated solid, and the red "Brake" message on the dashboard began flashing. She immediately called me from the road to report it. I had her pull over into a parking lot, shut down the ignition and remove the key for 60 seconds, and then restart the vehicle. No change in the dashboard display after doing so. She was about 15 miles from home so I told her to drive home carefully since the ABS may not be fully functioning. She arrived home safely without any further issues. I will allow the vehicle to sit overnight before I check it with my iCarsoft i903 scan tool tomorrow. During the nearly three years of our ownership, this is the first time the vehicle has turned on any warning lights. Is anyone familiar with this combination of warning lights? If so, what problem does it usually indicate? Thanks in advance for any assistance or direction you can provide.  

Vehicle is operating as designed. CEL = ALL the lights in most modern autos, trying to get people to pay attention. Find code, post or search here.  

Note: The amber Vehicle Dynamics Control icon on the dashboard is also illuminated solid.  

is that the VDC action light (the car with the slippery road). ? or the VDC off light ? (like its out of service and not going to save you)  

Update: I started the engine this morning to see if all dashboard warning lights from yesterday's incident would return. They indeed did. I shut the engine off and turned the key to the ACC ON position. I plugged in my iCarsoft i903 scan tool and scrolled through the various modules that it was able to communicate with. Here are the results: Engine: No DTCs. Transmission: No DTCs. Brakes: C0057 "VDC interrupted due to EGI reason." I successfully cleared the code. SRS: No DTCs. Tire Pressure System: No DTCs. Parking Brake: C0231 "ECM failure." I successfully cleared the code. I turned the ignition switch off, removed the key, disconnected my scan tool, then started the engine. All previous dashboard warning lights from yesterday's incident immediately illuminated again. I welcome your advice.  

^^ It is indeed "the car with the slippery road". Thanks for your interest. Any ideas?  

abs / speed sensor/ etc. is disconnected or damaged, baked or twisted. such would make the VDC want to work all the time trying to correct what does not need to be corrected.  

What were the weather conditions when she was driving? Wet? Did she go through a big puddle? I'm poking around in the FSM and it looks like both may be related to poor connections between ECM and the brake controller modules. You may need to lift the vehicle, remove the fuel tank protector (I think that's the large plastic shield back there, and locate the parking brake module. You'll see the parking brake wires going out to each wheel from the controller. Check the electrical connections and look for moisture and/or rust. I think that's where I would start....  

OBDad, Thanks for your input. The weather yesterday afternoon was dry. She does not recall splashing through any puddles. She did, however, cross over some railroad tracks not long before noticing all the dashboard warning lights. Not an excessively jarring railroad crossing (she says), in fact it is one that she has crossed over several times before in this vehicle during the past couple of weeks. Any idea exactly where the parking brake module is located, and what it looks like? I am all for putting the rear end up on jack stands and crawling underneath to see what I can find, but it always helps if I know exactly what I am looking for before I begin.  

Thanks for your additional input. I have a CD that I bought off of ebay a couple of years ago for about $15. It was advertised as the 2013 Legacy/Outback service manual. The primary problem with this CD is that it is not indexed or tabbed, so in order to use it I must scroll through more than 6,200 pages looking for the particular information I need. Sometimes I have been able to find what I am looking for, and sometimes not. But it always requires hours of page-by-page searching. I have had only a couple of minor issues with this vehicle since purchasing it in early November 2015 so I have not had much reason to utilize this CD (and given its extreme hassle factor, I am glad about that). Most of us here know that our vehicles are essentially rolling computers and without a strong and fully capable battery, it is quite common for a number of spurious and unrelated warnings and codes to be randomly thrown once the battery dips below the necessary voltage required to properly function (not just to start the engine, but to properly run all the vehicle's systems and modules). Because my vehicle (built in April 2013) still has its factory battery, I decided to put a CTEK charger on it and see if a proper charge will cause these warnings and codes to disappear. Probably a long shot, but you never know unless you try. I will report back once the CTEK has finished putting what I hope will be a full charge on my battery. In the meantime folks, please keep your ideas and suggestions coming. They are much appreciated.  

now is also a good time to check tire pressures, look / listen for stuck brakes and wheel bearings slowing the wheel speed on one or more corners. such may cause or exacerbate problems that you have.  

eagleeye, If you suspect a faulty wheel speed sensor or harness, why has the vehicle not thrown a faulty wheel speed sensor / harness code? I presume the wheel speed sensors are mounted somewhere on the hub carriers. Can anyone tell me exactly where? Once you jack up the vehicle and pull the wheels, are they immediately visible and obvious?  

never had one go bad on my car. so I am stuck reading / searching here. there was someone on here a few days ago with a bad one from some work done at a shop, and the 2nd shop with the aligment rack found a sensor put in wrong causing the car to think ONE of the front wheels was turned 90 degrees. making the VDC want to work work work. ____ is a EGI a ECU ?  

Not certain of course, but I doubt if EGI is another acronym for the ECU. And no shop has touched my vehicle since I had new tires mounted by my trusted Discount Tire shop in December 2016.  

Unfortunately, charging the battery with a CTEK unit (it reached 12.77 volts before the CTEK unit finished charging) had no impact on the dashboard warning messages and icons. So it appears that a failing factory battery is not the issue.  

Update: After an extremely helpful phone conversation with the service department at my local Subaru dealership this morning, they believe my issue is caused by a failing brake pedal switch. While they see more failures of this particular component in Foresters and Crosstreks, my symptoms (the combination of warning lights and messages) seem to point to that switch. What is most interesting is that my wife's 2006 Jaguar XK8 is now on its third brake pedal switch. It is a known issue on these cars and when they fail after about five years, the messages "Check Rear Lights" and "Cruise Not Available" begin to flash on the XK8 dashboard message screen. I was talking with one of my Jaguar forum buddies last night and he suggested that my Outback may be calling out its brake pedal switch as well. A new Outback brake pedal switch (part no. 83370AA001) is about $47 at my local dealership parts department. I think it is worth rolling the dice, replacing the switch, and seeing if that fixes my issue.  

Before you spend a lot of money, consider this. I had nearly the same thing happen to me suddnly last week when I was about 250 miles into a road trip. Cruise suddenly stopped working, CEL, AT (CVT) Temp warning and flashing brake light. I stopped and checked everything. Could find nothing wrong and no drivability problems, except no cruise control. Started back up, and still had all lights. Stopped again on a slight incline. Checked function of parking brake, and it functioned properly. Crawled under car and felt the transmission housing, and it didn't feel warm, checked wheel hups and axels, and found nothing warm. Started up again and AT Temp warning reset, but still had flashing brake, cruise light and CEL. Drove about another 30 miles after searching GPS and finding a Subaru Shop. Thought about gas cap. Stopped and removed gas cap, which seemed tight. Replaced gas cap and still had 3 lights. Drove another ten or so miles and made last turn before Subaru Shop, and then somewhere between 0.6 miles to destination and 0.2 miles to go, all lights went out. Stopped and talked to service writer, and before I got to the removed and replaced gas cap, she asked if I tried that. When I told her about the reset just befor I pulled in, she said it was probably fixed so just drive it. I just got back from my trip and another 900 miles with no lights or problems! Vehicle had never done this before. I guess it just needed to have the tank "burped"! Might not be your problem, but easy and cheap enough to check.  

Thanks for the information on burping the gas tank cap. I did that yesterday morning to no avail - all dashboard warning lights stayed on afterwards. I filled up the gas tank this morning, so that was yet another gas tank cap burp. Again, no change to the dashboard warning lights. I purchased a new brake pedal switch this afternoon. I plan to install it after the remnants of Hurricane Michael pass through our neck of the woods during the next couple of days. And the weather should be much cooler as well. I found a YouTube video of a guy replacing the brake pedal switch on a 2005 Impreza. It looks almost identical to the setup in my 2013 Outback 3.6R. As long as I can get my gorilla-sized hands up into the tight spaces underneath the drivers side dash where this switch is located, I should be able to do the job. I will report back on whether or not the new brake pedal switch indeed fixes my issue.  

Update: My next-door neighbor and I replaced the brake pedal switch last evening. It made no difference. All of the same dashboard warning lights and messages remained even after I cleared the OBDII codes again and took the vehicle for a test drive.  

Update: Diagnostics at the local dealership is scheduled for tomorrow morning. I will report back with the details. Other than a warranty claim regarding loose body side molding and a recall regarding the windshield wiper motor shield, this is the first dealership service requirement in nearly three years of ownership.  

Update: The Subaru dealership says that my passenger front air/fuel oxygen sensor (part no. 22641AA53A) has failed. They read a P0031 OBDII code although my iCarsoft i903 scan tool (specifically made for Subaru, Nissan, and Infiniti) did not. But I would not think that a simple oxygen sensor fault would light up all the various warning messages and icons on the dashboard. The dealership claims "that is to get your attention". What that really does is make diagnosis considerably more difficult, especially for us DIY guys. The dealership does not have the part in stock. It has been ordered and they will call me when it arrives to schedule its installation. The best news is that it is covered by the vehicle's 7-year / 70,000-mile emissions system warranty and the replacement part / labor will only cost me a $50 deductible. We shall see if this indeed fixes my issue when the part arrives early next week.  

My 3.6 went Christmas Tree on me a few months ago after a schedule service. All it was was a vacuum hose on the front of the engine had not been replaced..............  

Do you remember which vacuum hose was the culprit, and exactly where it was located?  

Directly behind the alternator and runs from a sensor into the front and center of the manifold. Hope that makes sense.  

Thanks for the information. I will try to remember that for future reference. I assume this particular vacuum hose was disconnected as part of the service performed on your vehicle and the tech did not reattach it securely so it eventually fell off, causing your dashboard to light up with warning messages.  

It is where they pumped Upper Cylinder Head Clear into the manifold.  

An air fuel oxygen sensor will definitely put the car in “limp mode” as the emissions system could be way out of spec and causing major pollution problems (although it is unlikely that the emissions were changed at all). If you look into the history of the engine trouble codes (engine warning light in the dashboard) you find that they were originally implemented to warn drivers of emission problems. Of course they now cover a huge variety of devices and symptoms and this is why we need a code reader to diagnose what the trouble code and reset any that are triggered. Seagrass  

Update: The new oxygen sensor arrived at the dealership yesterday. I have an appointment on Wednesday morning for the replacement job. Hopefully that will resolve all dashboard warning messages and icons. We shall see.  

Update: The new front air/fuel oxygen sensor was installed by the dealership this morning. It did indeed fix the issue, so all of the pesky dashboard warning messages and icons disappeared once the P0031 OBDII code was cleared. All is well, especially having to pay just $50 for the job.  

On the service manual software you mentioned. Control + F key gives a word search option.  

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