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Moleskine Smart Writing Set User Manual

• Manual (4 pages)
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Summary of Contents for Moleskine Smart Writing Set

• Page 1 Where can I find the user Manual? The Smart Writing How does the Smart Writing System work? System Elements What does the Smart Writing Set include? Warranty How does the warranty work? Serial number Where can I find the serial number of my...
• Page 2 How can I reach the assistance? 1. Introduction: about the Smart Writing Set At Moleskine we believe in the timeless power of handwriting as an essential expression of human civilization, a powerful act to unleash human genius and foster the development and sharing of literacy and knowledge.
• Page 3 You can visit our website using the following link: https://www.moleskine.com/home This guide is the first step in familiarizing yourself with your Smart Writing Set. It will help you to answer some of the questions you may have and facilitate your experience.
• Page 4 Please find the warranty here: https://www.moleskine.com/on/demandware.static/-/Library-Sites-MoleskineSharedLibrary/default/ dwbe893d20/pdf/2WARRSMPEN04_Warranty_8no_10%20lang.pdf At Moleskine, we want to make sure you get the most from your Smart Writing Set. You can reach us using the Support section on our website. The FAQ section can be accessed here: https://www.moleskine.com/it-it/faq...
• Page 5 3.3 How to move from the previous Notes App The previous version of Moleskine Notes is still working but can't be downloaded nor is it updated anymore. If you have stored any data in the previous version of the app, you should keep it and proceed with the migration process before deleting it from your device.
• Page 6 After making sure that your Smart Pen is charged (it takes 2 hours to fully charge), open the Notes App and click on “Add you Moleskine Smart Pen”. If you don’t have your Smart Pen with you or if it’s not charged, you can still explore the app by clicking on “Proceed without Smart Pen”.
• Page 7 3.7 Sync The Smart Writing Set allows you to sync your notes at any time, even if the Notes App is not opened on your device. If the Notes App is not running, make sure your Moleskine Smart Pen is turned on when taking notes.
• Page 8 - You should see an additional “Backup & Restore” item - Follow the instructions to complete backup Then, reopen the new Moleskine Notes - Select “With Google Drive” as method - Continue Migration (if you can’t find it open side menu > Settings > Migration)
• Page 9 You will be able to see the transcribed format (font) of your notes on screen. You can add and edit sentences using your device keyboard. 3.11.1 Writing and drawing tools on the Moleskine Notes App Within the Notes App you can draw on and edit your notes by following these easy steps:...
• Page 10 Select the pen or the highlighter, then change the color. 3.11.2 Sketching on paper The Smart Writing Set not only transcribes text, but also digitizes your drawing and sketches. An exact digital version of your creation appears in the Notes App in real time. You can also store and share the time-lapse of your drawing process.
• Page 11 3.14 Voice and video recording The Moleskine Notes App and Smart Pen allow you to make voice recordings. Below each page you can find the “voice record” icon. Press to start recording. 3.15 Search and tags The new Notes App allows you to search for Smart Notebooks and specific words: tap on the “Search”...
• Page 12 English. 4. Pen There are 3 models of Smart Pen available : The Moleskine Pen+ (no longer for sale), the Pen+ Ellipse, and the newest Smart Pen. Moleskine Smart Pen Moleskine Pen+ Ellipse 4.1 Smart Pen features compared...
• Page 13 4.2 Battery charge and battery life The Smart Pen (new version) can only be charged using the specific cable provided with it in the Smart Writing Set (POGO magnetic connector → USB). The USB port can be connected to any smartphone charger/pc USB power port) The Moleskine Smart Pen takes about 2 hours to fully charge.
• Page 14 4.4 LED colors of the new Smart Pen Blue: Smart Pen is pairing but not yet synced with your device. Green: Smart Pen is connected to the app and ready to use with any Moleskine Smart Notebook or Smart Planner.
• Page 15 4.5 LED colors Moleskine Pen+ Ellipse for status 4.5.1 LED colors Moleskine Smart Pen for status If you are asked to check your Smart Pen’s optical sensor, please refer to chapter 7.3 to solve the problem. 4.6 Calibration The Smart Pen Calibration function allows you to regulate the width and sharpness of your handwriting on screen depending on the amount of pressure you typically apply when writing on the page.
• Page 16 The Moleskine Smart Pen uses a standard D1 mini refill that is widely available in various formats and colors. The Smart Writing Set comes with 2 Ink refills, one already in the Smart Pen and a spare. We can provide a recommended refill list to guarantee the best performance of the Moleskine Smart Pen: Ncoded technology uses carbon ink, so all pen strokes need to be carbon-free in order not to affect recognition precision.
• Page 17 More Moleskine Smart Notebooks featuring Ncoded paper will be introduced in the future. 5.2 Using more than one notebook The Moleskine Smart Pen can recognize where you are in each Smart Notebook thanks to a hidden grid embedded within each page. Notebooks that use this technology are coded according to type.
• Page 18 6.1.2 Migrating from a previous version of the Moleskine Notes App In the former Notes App, digital calendars were updated via the “Authentication Center”, while in the...
• Page 19 (If you strike through an event in your Smart Planner, it will appear struck through in the digital version of your Smart Planner within the Moleskine Notes App. However, the event will not then be deleted from your preferred digital calendar). You can also edit the duration of single events you have already created.
• Page 20 6.7 Writing event slots The Smart Planner currently supports the following time format: 12 hour AM/PM notation. The 24-hour clock is not currently recognized. The Smart Planner supports the following formats for indicating time span: Format Example hh:mm AM or PM - hh:mm AM or PM 1PM- 3PM Lunch with John hh:mm AM or PM - hh:mm 1PM-3 Lunch with John...

Page 21: Troubleshooting

• Page 22 Sometimes the data is there but there are delays with the sync. Please tap on the upper right corner featuring the pen icon for an update or go back to the front cover of your notebook for an update. 7.5 More questions? Please contact support using [email protected]...

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Moleskine Journey Travel Light Battery Replacement

Introduction.

Here is my take on replacing the battery of the Moleskine Journey Travel Light. Inspired by the following article , I have got myself a new-in-box light, understanding that it will need battery replacement right away. Introduced somewhere around 2016, this light, sadly, lacked public attention. As such, there are little to no reviews with a fair bit of comments being left for a different model and/or by non-tech savvy users. To me, this light resembles a certain MP3 player with its many clones. The looks are very simple, and the clip design seems like something I would come up with myself. In addition, the Moleskine brand, while new to me, looks like one, that would be stamped on a product of certain design effort and build quality. Let's pry it open and find out if it is worth anyone's time, shall we?

What you need

Step 1 setup.

You may or may not have experience doing repairs on old electronics. The following repair will require patience, semi-destructive methods, and soldering. From my experience, it is not as tricky as, say, an iPod classic, yet has enough stuff to mess up.

Please take your time, clean your workspace, and ensure good lighting and ventilation. The required tools are listed above.

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Step 2 disassembly pt.1.

The device has a clip on a hinge, and the body itself. It is NOT possible to remove the clip without opening the body.

The body shell consists of two non-transparent pieces and a matt-white light diffuser panel. To make things easier, I'll call them "the diffuser", "the wall", and "the base".

As it turns out, the three pieces are held together with some sort of glue. The wall has about 1mm of overlap with the diffuser, where those are glued together. The same goes for the base. To swap the battery we'll have to do some prying and then gluing, unfortunately.

To start the disassembly, find the biggest gap between the diffuser and the other part. Use a flat, sharp tool. Apply pressure downward and inward on the most area possible. Don't let the tool slip, don't put pressure on one point, and be patient. Once one side gets loose, move your tool toward the end of the opening, undoing more and more glue.

It is possible to leave no scratches and cracks. Take your time, try different tools, and be careful. Little cracking noise is ok when the glue is being broken.

Step 3 Disassembly pt.2

Once the diffuser is off, you'll find a PCB, held by two Phillips head screws (guess someone has stashed a bunch of screws for themselves, hehe).

Don't make a rookie mistake. Always use the correct screwdriver bit (PH0), and hold it tight all the way out. To prevent stripping the screw head, apply moderate pressure down the screwdriver with your palm, twisting it with your fingers

The screws are out. Here comes the know-how. My guesstimate was incorrect. The PCB cannot indeed be pulled out from the case without further prying. However, there is an easy way to pry the case open cleanly. Put a knife inside the gap between the PCB and the wall. Pressing against the PCB, put the knife at an angle, and push the wall outward.

The goal is to detach the wall from the base. You should not need much force to hear it unglue with some cracking noise. Be careful with the knife. Use eye-protection. Once you repeat the procedure with the other sides, the base should come loose. Watch the hinge. Once the base is loose, the whole package can be pushed downward.

Step 4 Battery disposal

You'll need a soldering iron anyway, so don't worry if you brake the switch wire (of which there is one only, sic.).

To get a detailed view of the connections, please refer to the previous guide. I have put the link in the introduction.

Observing the innards, I have made some important points. First: the PCB is double-sided, with a bunch of SMD components and wires, connected from one side only. What it means to us, is that one should be rather careful handling it. SMD is hard to resolder, and you don't want to peel a mounting point with the wire.

Second: the charging controller is contained on the main PCB (contrary to my assumptions in the previous article). This should be a plus since there is more choice for the replacement.

Third: the battery has leaked . Cut the wires, put the battery in a safe place (should be disposed of properly and not trashed), and wash your hands thoroughly.

Step 5 Finding the replacement

I am no expert in the field, yet this part should not be too hard. Although, I encourage some advice on the topic.

What we have here is a Lithium polymer battery (Li-po) of certain size and specs. The "352025" stands for 3.5mm thick, 20mm x 25mm in size. It should be noted, that the length includes the thin part, where the contacts are located. As for the specs, we look for a battery of 3.7V voltage, with two wires (black-ground, red-power), and no charging circuit (debatable).

If you are ok with current specs and don't want the risk, look for the same exact size and specs. I am guessing that the voltage is what matters, so no worry if you find a slightly different-sized battery.

Step 6 Expanding the capacity

It can be hard to find a similar-sized battery. No worries, as more battery = more better.

I have experimented with paper mock-ups, and here are my findings.

The original battery thickness of 35 (3.5mm) is optimal, if not too large. The swollen old battery has marks from SMD components all over it. I say, go for 3.5mm or less. 40 won't fit.

The other dimensions are limited by the PCB posts and the size of the body itself. Without modifications, the biggest battery you can fit in is roughly 352330. Vertically or horizontally, the space is the same.

However, there is some sweet space, constricted by a post, marked in white. The post serves the purpose of stopping the micro-USB connector from being pushed inside. For my personal use, this should be superfluous.

Using a knife, I cut the post flush with the base. Now there is 15mm more battery space. Cool. Searching for a battery, I found a 302040 unit. It has 300mAh capacity and fits perfectly. Hopefully, the charging controller won't be against it. To be continued...

Step 7 Finishing touches

So, the batteries have arrived. Just in case, I have ordered some smaller ones, as well as the mighty 302040.

The wires were soldered (bat+ to PCB+, bat- to PCB-), and I tried to put back the device.

Here comes the annoying bit: the sensory switch . Or One-Wire Touch Detector to be more precise. The thing consists of some magic on the PCB, a wire, and a copper plate. Touching the wire works, so does touching the PCB. If you mess with it once the good battery is attached, you'll be blinded quite fast.

To assemble the device without being blinded, use some electrical tape to cover the LEDs. To make the thing easier to assemble, use an audio wire instead of a stock one for the switch. A touch of CA glue (or epoxy in my case), and the light is as good as new (or even better).

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Moleskine Journey Travel Booklight, Scarlet Red › Customer reviews

Customer reviews.

Moleskine Journey Travel Booklight, Scarlet Red

Customer Reviews, including Product Star Ratings help customers to learn more about the product and decide whether it is the right product for them.

To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. It also analyzed reviews to verify trustworthiness.

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Now you can read by the light of your Moleskine

In addition to their journals, Moleskine makes accessories for readers and writers.  Their Rechargeable Booklight will shed light on the book you’re reading or on the journal you’re writing in.  It’s USB-rechargeable, has two LEDs, and it measures 7″ X 1.5″.  The Booklight has a soft-touch, matte plastic exterior and a flexible, bendable inner structure that allows you to bend it into the shape you need to put the light where you want it.  It’s available in Black, Cerulean Blue, or Orange for $19.95.

About The Author

Janet Cloninger

3 thoughts on “now you can read by the light of your moleskine”.

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Lesser that dollar in chineese shops.

They look great and I bought one two years ago ,sadly it broke straight away! I bought another one 6-7 months ago …..also broken ! I think theres a design fault but they really should have fixed it by now !😔 Avoid …and buy from another company .

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Moleskine usb rechargeable booklight..

On August 25th, at 4:34 AM, Flippy McAwesome died. A technopsy confirmed that there was no hope of gadget-necromancy.

Flippy McAwesome: you will be missed. You were a damn good book light, even if you did scratch things.

You were a good friend.

So, there I was, no book light, and with a burning desire to read. I could turn on a lamp, but what would I do when I wanted to read and someone else wanted to sleep?

Obviously, I needed another book light.

Ideally, I needed an exact replacement, because I have a bunch of batteries for it.

To Amazon! Because I don’t want to scour every dollar store I can find to replace this thing.

This is when I made some rather unfortunate discoveries.

1. I’d have to pay five dollars plus shipping for what might or might not be the same book light. 2. Almost nobody likes making the battery type of their book light really obvious. 3. Rechargeable book lights are not a thing? Why aren’t they a thing?

Then I found the subject of this post. The Moleskine USB Rechargeable Booklight. Purely by accident, and many hours into my search, it just happened to come up on the fifth or sixth page.

I’m pretty sure I was doomed to buy it the instant I saw it.

How could I refuse that face?

There was a problem, though. That problem wasn’t that it was an almost-twenty-dollar book light — I was just about willing to eat that price to avoid having to pay for batteries.

No, it was the lack of good reviews. Good reviews in both senses: nobody has bothered to clearly state what this thing can do, and nobody’s really liked the thing. I mostly found blogs that are nothing more than ‘look a new product’, one terrible , incomprehensible website that recommended some bulky, non-portable, tethered-to-the-wall alternative [or something that needed to be charged by solar power], and one video where the guy wouldn’t stop smacking the thing against the table and ranting about how rude it was of Moleskine to not acquiesce to his demand that they give him his money back so he didn’t have to drive to the store to return it.

I had to think about it for a little bit, but, obviously, I bought it. It seemed to be exactly what I wanted, and, if I was disappointed in it, I was pretty sure Amazon would accept a return.

And, because the internet is lacking in information on this particular item…I’m going to try to review it.

But how do you review a book light, exactly? There really isn’t much you can say, on the surface. It either lights the goddamn page, or it doesn’t. If that’s all you need to know, then, well, it lights the goddamn page.

I wanted to do more than that, though. I wanted to test this thing, see how long it actually lit the page — or, in my case, the screen of a Kindle Touch — before draining to the point that it was no longer useful.

And here’s where we get to some criticisms already. Moleskine could really improve this product by including some information on the packaging. Information like ‘how long does it take to charge?’ and ‘how long does it last on a full charge?’

They apparently thought that this wasn’t important, and used the back of the package to show how it could be used, and point me to their website to talk about their ‘legendary history.’

In at least three different languages.

So, great. I can use it to light a laptop — that means it can be used while plugged in. And the blue LED that comes on when it’s charging does not go off when it’s done charging.

This is a flaw.

So I decided to go see if I could, I dunno, ask someone if they knew what to expect from this thing’s battery.

Well, this seems like a good place to start.

Oh dear….

Apparently, the two questions I wanted answered have been asked enough that they’re default questions.

At least two hours….

What’s that mean exactly?

Seriously, what does that mean? Does that mean I shouldn’t leave it plugged in for more than four hours, or does it mean that it shouldn’t take longer than four hours?

Four hours to charge for two hours of reading time does not seem like a good thing.

So: the test. I would charge it for a while [I wasn’t very scientific about that part — it may not have been four hours, because I wasn’t keeping track], and then…find a way to keep time. My Nexus provided that with the stopwatch. I would use the ‘laps’ option to ‘reset’ it when I reached a new stage of the test.

I waited for dark.

Full Charge, No Stars.

Actually taken twenty minutes into the trial.

I wasn’t going in blind — I’d already played with it a bit, to see if I could replicate the problem that the table-banging guy hand with it. If that’d happened, I would’ve tried to replace it with Amazon. Instead, it lit fine, and shut off equally fine. It does occasionally get a bit…fiddly. Touchy, even. I’ll brush the back of the light, where the switch is [it’s got this good, beefy feeling switch that gives a very satisfying ‘click-click’ with each ‘on’ or ‘off’ push], and it’ll flicker — on, if it’s off, and off, if it’s on — but, obviously, this isn’t enough of a ‘thing’ to make me want to return it.

I had a collection of ghost stories that I wanted to read — sent to my Kindle by Amazon’s Send To Kindle add-on for Chrome, from a website that’s archived several years of Something Awful Forum Ghost Story threads. So, I settled in.

Initial impressions: It works well with the Kindle Touch. The lighting may look odd in the picture — not lighting the full screen, glare-ey at the top — but that’s more due to the camera and my inability to take good pictures. In person, it lights the full screen nicely, not causing the bezel to cast a shadow, and reaching the bottom of the screen nicely.

This is largely because it’s fully poseable, and able to stay in whatever position you put it in.

I don’t think it would work well if you don’t have a cover for your Kindle, however — specifically, a book-style cover.

It doesn’t seem to add weight to the device, which is also good.

With the style of cover that I have, it would work without modifications — I confirmed this before modifying my Kindle cover [hot glue and two pieces of black elastic] so I have a place to keep it when it’s not in use.

So far, so good.

Oh, and, since I feel the need to explain it, the heading for this section is a play on the title of a Stephen King book — Full Dark, No Stars. Because it was fully charged, and I’m pretty sure every reviewer I read talked about how they’d give it no stars if they could.

Still good, after an hour of use. I’d made a few minor adjustments to the bend — which is really a nice feature. Flippy McAwesome didn’t have a lot of range, and would often cause the bezel to cast a shockingly long shadow.

I didn’t get a lot of reading done in that first hour, because I spent some time talking to a few people on Facebook between stories. I learned that cheesecake pudding existed [and I now wonder if chocolate cheesecake pudding exists, and if you can get them in single cups with side-containers of crumbled-up graham cracker crust], and a few other things.

It was during this time that I realised that I was not returning this light. Because, without meaning to — without even knowing I was going to do it — I named it.

No-Face. Its name is No-Face.

You can see why. Right?

Yes. I name things. Things that aren’t cars. I think they have personalities.

I may have undiagnosed mental issues to go with my diagnosed ones.

So, here we were, one hour in, and I have to potentially reconcile ‘keeping it’ with ‘not recommending it’.

Fuck it. I’m reading. I’ll think about it later.

Here we are, right around when it should start going, based on what the super-secret-hidden-information from the website told me.

It occurred to me that I could get a picture of the light with the Nexus in the shot at this point, because I am apparently very slow. Such things probably occur to real scientists who’ve gone to Science School for their degrees in Doing Science, but that’s not me. I haven’t even taken the course that teaches me how to review things.

At this point, I accidentally figured out how to get the ‘time left in book’ thing back on my Kindle Touch, and discovered that I had 1 hour and 42 minutes left.

Wouldn’t it be neat if I made it through the book before the book light started dimming?

Not gonna happen, kid.

The good news? The information is technically correct. It did last more than two hours. And that ‘more than’ was not measured in Planck time.

The bad news? Once you start noticing the dimness, it starts accelerating.

However, it is still putting out enough light to read by. Enough light for me to read by, anyway.

And it continued to put out enough light for another half hour.

It’s now too damn dark to read. At three hours. After an unmeasured charging.

I wasn’t ready to go to sleep, though — or finish this little test. I’d already figured out a solution to this little problem.

A USB wall plug, and a male-to-female USB cable.

It’s censored, so it’s work safe!

This technically brings back those ‘oh my god, I’m tied to one place’ concerns, but the cable is long, not heavy, and it’s really not all that tether-ey. And it only has to come out if you’re a marathon-reader like I am…and I doubt there are that many of us.

This is the blue light. Sadly, it is not good for reading — at least, it’s not good for me for reading.

And the blue disappears when I turn the light back on — which comes right back at full power when plugged in.

I read like this for another hour.

Short Charge

At the four hour mark, I unplugged again. I wanted to see how long it’d last on an hour of ‘charging while in use’. Upon unplugging, it was just as bright as it was while plugged in, and at the beginning of the trial.

Thirty minutes, and the dimming started. Which is better than I expected.

Conclusions

Obviously, I’m keeping No-Face. Two and a half hours of full light, with another thirty minutes of dimming light isn’t terrible. It could be better, but I suspect that a better battery would add weight.

Other book lights might last longer — especially the LED-based ones that run off AA or AAA batteries, but the extra cost of the batteries are a major drawback, and the weight the batteries add, plus the bulk required to house the batteries are pretty major flaws.

The fact that I can pose it and it stays posed is another point in No-Face’s favour. I’ve played with other poseable bendy-lights [and I have one for the GameBoy Advance], and they tend to ‘relax’ and waggle a lot with movement. No-Face stays where you put it, and I imagine it’d stay really well in a regular book.

The ability to recharge by USB was a major selling point for me, and the way it recharges — with a thin little USB plugin — lets me plug in while reading. Another point in the ‘good’ column. A USB extension cable is good to have on hand, and maybe five dollars — you will have other uses for it.

I wouldn’t have wanted a rechargeable book light that couldn’t be used while charging.

The negative reviews? They may be valid. I might’ve gotten a freakish good one — the only flaw is that occasionally fiddly switch. No-Face turns off when I click it off, and turns on when I click it on. None of the Always On issues that others have reported.

I think Moleskine have a decent product here. There’s room for improvement — I don’t know how much room — obviously, if there’s a problem with the switch [and there might be], they could iron that out. Battery technology is improving, so they might be able to improve the battery life. They could set it up so that the blue light turns off when it’s done charging.

If I were redesigning it, I’d do one more thing. As fond as I am of the appearance of the book light — the way the two little lights make it look vaguely human — I would have it be more like those mysterious night lights that are just flat panels that glow. Instead of two very bright LEDs glowing down, I’d see if there was a way to have a more diffused, even light coming from a solid white panel. It’d be smoother, and potentially easier on the eyes. And better for reading in bed while someone else is trying to sleep.

I doubt Moleskine cares much about my opinions, though.

But, yeah: I actually recommend this light. With caution. If you want a slim, rechargeable book light, this is pretty much the only game in town. If you buy it, make sure you buy it from a place with a good return policy — a nearby store that you trust, or Amazon — just in case some of the reported problems are real, and you have to exchange it, or want to give up on it entirely.

Or get a Kindle Paperwhite.

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7 thoughts on “ Moleskine USB Rechargeable Booklight. ”

Thank you. I love Moleskine and really want this light, enough that I may be willing to overlook some of the hideous reviews on Amazon. Your blog has helped me think it may be worth the risk.

It is a bit of a risk. Long-term use has exposed me to a few more of the downsides, like the extremely nutty power button [it sometimes refuses to do anything but stay on, or stay off], and there’s no way to tell if it’s fully charged.

But: it’s bright, it’s good for the length of time most people read for, and it’s multi-purpose. I may do another post about it. An update.

Thanks for your review. Just bought one today and have charged it for an hour … but the light’s not working when I unplug it from the USB. How long does it take to charge?

I have the same problem. I got one at Staples and allowed it to charge for a couple of hours. I then unplugged it, and went to work. I was expecting it to function when I returned, but it didn’t do anything [I assumed some sort of battery drain]. Just in case I was mistaken and nothing was wrong, I charged it overnight, and when I got up in the morning, I tried again: nothing. I began to think that the package had misused the word “rechargeable” and that it needed to be plugged in to be used. According to what I have been reading though, it seems that we just got malfunctioning ones.

Many thanks for your research! I bought one for myself and for our grandson only to realize that there were no instructions re: charging, length of charging process etc. Not only diid you answered all of my questions but you also made me laugh while reading your epistle. As someone who periodically wakes at 3:00 a.m. I like to read without waking my husband. Purchasing a USB plug-in will solve the problem of a dimming reading light. Cheers

I fixed mine: http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-repair-a-Moleskine-USB-book-light/

Ha hahahahahah- found this post while pondering, ‘hey will this little blue light go off when it is charged or what?’ I will never look at my booklight the same again- no face.

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How to Repair a Moleskine USB Book Light

Introduction: How to Repair a Moleskine USB Book Light

I bought this Moleskine Rechargeable Booklight and found that it worked great until the battery went dead and then when I plugged it into a USB port to charge it showed that it was charging but no matter how long you left it charging it would not take a charge and never worked again (unless you left it plugged in).

I did a search and found that this is an extremely common problem with this particular light. Here are some product reviews on Amazon.com saying how badly this thing sucks.

I really like this booklight and so it was a serious disappointment that it has such a design flaw.

So I decided to take mine apart and figure out how to fix it. I will now show you how to fix yours.

You will need:

• precision screwdriver set
• soldering iron
• wire clippers
• double-sided tape or hot glue gun or superglue, etc.
• electrician's tape

The fix will cost nothing and only take about 10 minutes. This is well worth it considering how nice the booklight is and how it originally costed around $20.

Step 1: Disassembly

Pry the plastic cover off the front. You will find that it is only held on with double-sided tape.

Then use a precision screwdriver to remove the little screws so that the mechanism comes out.

Step 2: Finding the Problem

First I had to figure out what the problem was. So I plugged in the unit to a usb port and then used jumper cables to verify that the lights work when the power is being supplied to the positive and negative rails on the bottom of the mechanism.

So the problem seemed to be that the battery is not being charged. It could be due to a faulty electrical component like a burned out surface mount resistor or something blocking current from getting to the battery from the usb.

To test this hypothesis I removed the plastic from the leads on the battery and connected the jumper cables directly to the positive and negative on the battery. Note that the "charging" indicator light will not come on. After a minute or two I disconnected the jumper cables and the light worked normally. Hence the problem is power is not getting to the battery from the USB input.

Step 3: Fixing the Problem

The solution is to connect the positive of the battery directly to the positive rail coming from the USB. That way it will charge directly from the USB power without going through the internal circuitry. However, this means that the "charging" indicator light will always be on since the battery is always connected to the USB power rail. Hence we first need to cut one of the leads (it doesn't matter which one) of the blue indicator LED. You don't need this indicator LED anyway since if it is plugged in it will be charging. If you aren't sure whether it is plugged in correctly or not, just turn it on. If it works then it is plugged in right.

In the first picture I show where to cut this.

Then you have to solder the positive (red) lead from the battery to the positive USB rail. The second picture shows how to do this. A good method is to heat the insulation on the wire and then pull it apart a bit exposing bare wire, then dab a drop of solder between this and the rail below.

Step 4: Finished Soldering Job

In these pictures I show better quality closeups of the finished fix. You can see the cut LED wire and the soldered battery lead.

Step 5: Putting It Back Together

Finally use some electrician's tape to cover up the battery terminals replacing the plastic you removed earlier.

Then put it back together, and stick the cover back on with glue, or tape.

Step 6: Finished!

Now you are done! It will now charge from a USB port and it will work properly.You should only charge it for 15 minutes or 1/2 hour to get a full charge. Note: here is the lithium polymer batter that is used you will be charging it at slightly over the nomial voltage and charging current which may reduce the battery lifetime (but it is still better than a lifetime of zero which is what it had before right?) Don't charge it for longer than 1/2 hour to avoid it getting hot (although mine never got the slightest bit hot even after charging for a long period as a test).

Happy reading!

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