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Rooftops view of Turin on a sunny winter day.

My four-day rail and ferry adventure from the UK to Albania

From London to Tirana, via Chambéry’s medieval streets, bustling Bari and Albania’s dynamic capital, this trip across Europe has treats at every turn

M y overriding memories of crossing countries by train, on a trip from London to Albania, are of half-empty carriages and countryside sweeping past windows bathed in the soft orange glow of sunset. I remember cypress trees, red-roofed villages with square churches, farmland in neat strips and row upon row of vineyards.

On my London-Paris-Chambéry-Turin-Bari-Tirana journey over land and sea, there was, for long stretches, little to do. The wifi was patchy. It took a while to adapt to having so much time to simply watch the world go by, travelling through landscapes without having to navigate them.

The biggest stress happened long before I set off, when a landslide not far from the French border with Italy blocked the rail line between Chambéry and Turin, forcing a closure that continues today. Byway, the no-fly operator I had booked with, offered to reroute me through Nice and on to Turin via the Vermenagna valley (with changes in Tende and Cuneo), or book me on the FlixBus service over part of the Mont Blanc massif. I was keen to see Chambéry and the Alps, so I chose the bus.

The writer leans out of the train door. She is wearing a long denim coat and sandals and looks excited.

People seemed surprised when I told them I was travelling overland to Albania. As I gushed about the romance of slow travel by train and sleeper ferry, and my excitement about Tirana, I got comments about being “brave”. I didn’t feel especially brave: all the planning, tickets and hotel bookings were done for me, and friendly help was a WhatsApp call away if needed.

I just had to download the Rail Planner app for my Interrail pass and make sure I was at the right station at the right time (Turin was the biggest challenge: it has four main railway stations and taxis scream between them bearing anxious-looking passengers).

The entire journey took four days. If I did it all again, I’d stay longer in Puglia, the heel of Italy’s boot – and remember to buy my Paris Métro ticket from the cafe on the Eurostar.

Day one: London to Chamb éry

A street with pale pink classical buildings and a statue on a plinth.

First to Paris’s Gare du Nord, then the metro to Gare de Lyon, where I make a beeline for a cafe opposite the station. Noise pervades the pavement tables of Café Terminus, but the cacophony is delightful – an atmospheric place for a citron pressé .

I’m in plenty of time for the train to Chambéry and, excitingly, am on the upper deck. Soon, we break free from the suburbs to trace huge stands of forest. Beyond Lyon begins a ripple of hills, lazy rivers and thickly forested slopes. As evening approaches, it’s all Alpine scenery. I arrive at an almost-empty station and walk to the boutique Hotel des Princes in Chambéry’s old town.

Chambéry has an Italian feel – it was the seat of the House of Savoy before the dynasty moved on to Turin – and its medieval alleys, cathedral and pastel-coloured townhouses are quietly impressive. The 1838 Fontaine des Éléphants sits in the middle of the closest square to the old town, and peeking from the end of every street are the Bauges and Chartreuse mountain ranges. My stay is peaceful and easy.

Day two: Chamb éry to Turin

From Chambéry, the train to Turin would take about 2½ hours, but the bus takes double this. I’m on the top deck again, which is worth it for the sight of misty fingers of early morning light breaking across the mountain ridge. Snoozing backpackers rouse themselves to snap pictures of remote Mont Blanc peaks, before slumbering once more through the tunnel to Italy. In Turin there’s perfume in the air from the blossom-covered trees.

Turin’s grid of long, straight boulevards is testament to its development by the Romans – the redbrick Palatine Gate is another Roman relic – and its grand piazzas, royal palaces and graffitied colonnades date from the city’s Savoy heyday in the 16th and 17th centuries. Today, the number one attraction is the Museo Egizio (Egyptian Museum).

My favourite moments? Ricotta and fig ice-cream on Piazza San Carlo, an aperitivo on off-the-beaten-path Via Sant’Agostino and the towering neoclassical Mole Antonelliana (national museum of cinema). I eat Turin’s famous doughy pizza al padellino (pan pizza) and spend a comfortable night in the eaves of Hotel Urbani in 19th-century residential streets close to the grand Porta Nuova train station.

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Day three: Turin to Bari

A rolling mountain range with cumulus clouds in the sky.

The views from my next train are of cinematic Tuscan scenes. Scorched fields, vines and Italian cypress trees. Neat red roofs and shabby-chic farmhouses. Fluffy clouds cling to hills that Google Maps tells me are the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines. After hours of soothing golden landscapes, the opal-blue Adriatic wallops into view just north of Ancona. Beach bars whip by and cypress trees are replaced with palm trees: I’ve arrived in the south of Italy.

Bari is hands down my favourite stop. The noise, heat and energy as we step off the train in the early evening are joyous. After Chambéry and Turin, Bari feels brash, a little rough around the edges even; a proper port city. The labyrinthine alleyways of the whitewashed old town are almost cliched in their cuteness. Despite the troupes of tightly packed headphone-wearing Americans following guided tours, it somehow manages to retain a tranquil atmosphere.

An elegant old building presides over the port, with its little fishing boats, on a sunny day.

Old ladies yawn from the shade as tourists surreptitiously snap pictures and laundry flutters from balconies. I could stay for ever, but after 24 hours (which includes a lot of pasta, a stroll along the posh promenade to the not-so-posh city beach and a night in an elegant aparthotel, Residence Zodiacus , halfway between the station and the old town), it’s time to board the night ferry to Albania.

Day (and night) four: Bari to Tirana

The mosque is lit in evening sunlight, with mountains in the background.

I arrive at the ferry on foot and am escorted through the car deck to jokes about going in the wrong direction (to Albania, instead of from it). In the early morning I spot a pink sky through the cracked window of my comfy en suite cabin, and head to the top deck to see the sun rise over the distant outline of Albania. Disembarking in the port of Durrës is a bit of a scrum and there’s a bus to the capital waiting, but I opt instead for a five-minute taxi ride to the centre of town and breakfast of pastries and espresso on a dazzling white road lined with boutiques and palm trees. I later regret this though, as the aircon on the grubby public bus I eventually take to Tirana is more tired than I am, and drops me in an urban sprawl miles from the centre.

Tirana itself is a revelation. My hotel, Padam Boutique , is a grand villa with handsome rooms and floor-to-ceiling windows, and there’s striking new skyward architecture on every nearby street. A short stroll away is the landmark Pyramid of Tirana , which stands as a symbol and monument to change (and is fun to climb at sunset). Skanderbeg Square – a jumble of buildings erected on a roundabout at the time of the celebrations to mark the fall of communism in 1992 – is now a pedestrianised, glossy public space. There are nods to Albania’s recent, wretched history behind the iron curtain, of course – the Bunk’Art and Bunk’Art 2 museums, in nuclear bunkers are unmissable – but Tirana and the country are more than just the last century. My journey is done, but it feels like Tirana is just getting into its stride.

The trip was provided by Byway , which offers sustainable travel and accommodation packages across the UK and Europe. Its Alps to Albania trip costs from £679pp

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Five of Europe’s best national parks – with all the beauty but none of the crowds

Offering exquisite scenery, rare wildlife and spectacular trails, these under-the-radar national parks are worth tracking down

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Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici , Spain

There is a wild and wonderful water world in the north-eastern corner of Spain. The Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici national park , in the central Pyrenees north of Lleida, is characterised by more than 200 lakes fed by melting snow and ice, plus rivers and streams, gorges, waterfalls and marshes. ( Aigüestortes means “winding waters” in Catalan, and Sant Maurici is the biggest lake.)

Visitors can explore by bike – there are 13 routes, from flat family paths to challenging mountain biking. There are also 27 hiking trails with spectacular viewpoints over the lakes, which reflect the surrounding forests and mountains. These include Los Encantados, a pair of near-identical peaks. Wildlife includes bearded vultures and grouse, one of the emblems of the Pyrenees.

In the Vall de Boi , eight Romanesque churches and a hermitage, all built in the 11th and 12th centuries, are characterised by tall narrow bell towers. It is possible to visit them all in a day, walking between the villages. After that, walkers can relax in Caldes de Boi thermal spa , which is set in large gardens and has 37 natural springs.

June and July are among the best times to visit, to experience the Fallas festivals. In these centuries-old midsummer rituals enormous torches are carried down the mountains into the villages, where a great bonfire is lit and the party begins. This year, the dates are 14 June in Durro, 23 June in Boí, 6 July in Barruera, 13 July in Erill la Vall, 19 July in Taüll and 26 July in el Pla de l’Ermita.

Accommodation includes the Aigüestortes Camping Resort (from €25 for a pitch for two) and a network of mountain refuges , including Amitges (€40 B&B). Wild camping is not allowed. There are daily coach services from Barcelona, Lleida and Tremp to most of the villages around the park, and from June to September a park bus connects the two main entrances, Boi and Espot.

Mercantour, France

In the far south-east corner of France, between the southernmost Alps and the Mediterranean Sea, lies the Mercantour national park . Half a dozen uninhabited valleys stretch for 100 miles, from Barcelonnette to Sospel, with scattered villages around the periphery. This diverse landscape, from almost alpine to coastal, provides a habitat for a huge range of wildlife. Of more than 2,000 species of flowers and plants, 200 are rare and 30 endemic; there are 200 kinds of bird, including golden eagles and ptarmigans, and 78 mammals, including wolves, marmots and all six French ungulates (stag, deer, wild boar, ibex, chamois and mouflon).

One unmissable spot is the Valley of Wonders, a huge archaeological site of about 40,000 rock carvings, with the oldest dating to around 3,000BC. They depict daily life and beliefs, with engravings of cattle, weapons and geometric figures. Other highlights include the glacial lakes of Vens, which feed a series of waterfalls, and Lake Allos, the biggest high-altitude natural lake in Europe.

For hikers there are more than 1,000 miles of trails (about 350 miles in the heart of the park), from gentle walks in meadows and woodland to strenuous mountain treks – the highest peak, Gélas, is 3,143 metres.

A website for hikers details more than 100 day walks, about 20 itineraries of between two and seven days, and the 17-day, 140-mile Grande Traversée du Mercantour. It also lists accommodation from hotels to campsites. Mountain refuges offer dormitory beds and shared meals: they include La Cantonnière , Refuge des Lacs de Vens , Refuge de la Cougourde and Chalet de la Madone de Fenestre (from €20pp). Wild camping in tents is banned, but bivouacs are allowed between 7pm and 9am.

Lots of visitors choose to stay in one of the towns along the main road that passes to the south of the park, such as St-Martin-de-Entraunes, St-Sauveur-sur-Tinée, St-Etienne-de-Tinée and St-Martin-Vésubie.

Car-free travel is encouraged: there are daily buses from Nice, Monaco and Menton to each valley, and intra-valley shuttles, plus a tourist train line from Nice that calls at several villages. In the summer, there are dedicated buses for hikers, also from Nice.

Eifel, Germany

Strictly speaking, the Eifel national park in North Rhine-Westphalia, in far-west Germany, is still classed as “in development” – it was founded 20 years ago, and it will take another 10 years for 75% of the land to return to nature. But more than half the area has already been rewilded. Beech and oak trees that would once have been felled are now left as undisturbed woodland, and animals such as wild cats, woodpeckers, red deer, and rare lizards and bats have returned. There is a red deer observation gallery near Dreiborn – September and October are the best times to visit, to observe the rutting season. The rivers attract black storks and kingfishers, and wild daffodils can be found on the Dreiborn Plateau. At the birdwatching station on Lake Urftsee, there are two telescopes to watch the black storks, red and black kites, herons and cormorants.

One of the best ways to explore the park is on the four-day, 53-mile Wilderness Trail . Visitors can walk it independently or book a package , which includes three nights’ B&B and transfers by bus and train (from €269pp). There are also five shorter hiking circuits (from three to 11 miles each); 65 miles of cycle paths; and 40 miles of bridleways. Free ranger tours take place most days, and there are boat tours in the summer.

In 2014, Eifel became the first international dark sky park in Germany. The Vogelsang observatory organises regular astronomy workshops and dark sky walks. Historical sites include Monschau Castle, Steinfeld Monastery and Mariawald Abbey.

About 30 national park hosts offer environment-friendly stays, including two campsites and nine hostels. Overnight guests are entitled to the GästeCard , which provides free travel on buses and trains in the Eifel national park discovery region, stretching from the border with the Netherlands at Aachen to Cologne, Bonn and Leverkusen.

Risnjak, Croatia

The mountainous, forested Risnjak national park is named after one of its rarest residents, the lynx – ris in Croatian. It contains the Risnjak and Snježnik massifs in the northern part of the Dinaric Alps and is an important habitat for brown bears, wolves and chamois. Birds include capercaillie and pygmy owl; 89 species of butterfly have been recorded, and a variety of wild orchids grow there.

Visitors can walk to the source of the Kupa river, a bright turquoise pool, via Wonderful Butterfly Valley (35 minutes); follow the Leska educational path to learn about the park (three miles), or climb 11 peaks – Risnjak is the highest at 1,528 metres, with Snježnik just behind at 1,506 metres. Panoramic views stretch across Istria – the Adriatic is just 11 miles away – and as far as the Julian Alps in Slovenia. In the summer, there are guided chamois-spotting tours (from €65 for five hours). Cycle routes range from 2½ to 25 miles ( mountain bike hire is from €4 for three hours/€12 for 24 hours). Fly fishing for brown trout and grayling is allowed from spring to autumn (€55 a day).

Only about 60 people still live in the park. Limited accommodation includes a guesthouse and a hostel in the mountain village of Crni Lug (beds from €13), a mile from the main entrance, and a refuge below the Risnjak summit, built by botanist Josip Schlosser in 1932. There are more options in Delnice, the nearest town (eight miles away), and even more in Rijeka, the nearest city, on the coast about 100 minutes’ drive away.

Buses run from Delnice and Rijeka to Crni Lug, or it is a 90-minute drive from Zagreb. The entrance fee is €6 adults/€3 children.

Peneda-Gerês, Portugal

There is only one national park in Portugal: Peneda-Gerês , in the far north-west, near the border with Spain. Luckily, it has a bit of everything: mountains, oak forests, holly-bush woods, wildflower meadows, peatlands, rivers and waterfalls. It is home to endemic species such as the gold-striped salamander, endangered species including the Iberian wolf and Iberian wild goat, plus roe deer, wild garrano ponies, barrosã cattle and sheepdogs.

There are about 15 official day walking trails ranging from a couple of kilometres to a 16-mile circular trek taking in a megalithic necropolis and a birdwatching plateau. Other routes go via medieval castles, monasteries and sanctuaries. But the ultimate way to explore the park is on the GR50 , a 120-mile, 19-stage route along Roman roads, pilgrims’ ways and smugglers’ trails. The GR50 crosses the hills of Castro Laboreiro, the mountains of Peneda, Soajo, Serras Amarela and Gerês, and the Mourela Plateau. Each stage ends at a village – about 9,000 people live in the park – with simple lodges and guesthouses to stay in.

On shorter trips, visitors could combine a stage or two with some canoeing or canyoning. The super-fit could run it: there is a trail-running event in May with races over five distances from 10 to 100 miles.

The easiest way to reach the park on public transport is by bus from Braga to the town of Gerês, a five-minute walk from one of the five park gates.