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The Ultimate 5 to 7 Days in Basque Country Itinerary

Last Updated on December 5, 2023

by Maggie Turansky

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To prevent yourself from having to choose between visiting Bilbao or San Sebastian , it’s a great idea to plan a proper Basque Country itinerary so you have the time to see a good portion of this beautiful corner of Northwestern Spain (and part of Southwestern France!). Spending 5 to 7 days in the Basque Country is never a bad idea when you consider just how much there is to see and do in this unique region.

The Basque Country can seem a world away from bustling metropolises like Madrid and Barcelona or the sun-baked cities and towns of Andalucía. This corner of the country is a bit more rugged and rainy, with a dramatic coastline and a shockingly green countryside.

Though it boasts some of the most beautiful beaches in the nation, come prepared for variable weather patterns and don’t be surprised if you have more rain than sunshine.

Erratic weather aside, planning to visit the Basque region is an excellent idea for anyone wanting to see a different part of Spain. So long as you pack an umbrella and an empty stomach – this is the gastronomic heart of the country, after all – mapping out an ideal route is an incredibly pleasurable task so long as you know where to go.

Table of Contents

How Many Days in Basque Country?

How many days should you spend in the Basque Country? Knowing how long to spend in this beautiful region will allow you to adequately map out your route and figure out what you have time for and what you do not.

There is a surprising amount to see in this region and you could spend a lot of time exploring it. However, if you want to get a good feel for the region, enjoy both the major cities and some smaller towns in the countryside and maybe even have some time to relax, I would highly recommend spending 5 days in Basque Country.

If you are going to plan a 5-day Basque itinerary, then the route mapped out below can be altered to fit your needs.

You will likely need to cut out the day trips from Bilbao or, if you’re not as interested in the city, then you can cut out one day in Bilbao itself. You would also need to do the same for San Sebastian – either cut out the day trips on the last day or cut out a day in the city itself.

If you have 7 days, you will have a lot more time to devote to both Bilbao and San Sebastian and also to some smaller towns both inland and on the coast. Should you want to venture into the French Basque Country, then there is even an option to do that on the final day.

It’s worth noting that even if you plan a week here, you likely won’t have time to see absolutely everything that this beautiful region has to offer. However, a week can give you enough time to dig deeper in a number of places and also cover quite a lot of ground.

Getting To & Around the Basque Country

Getting to the region isn’t a difficult process, as the starting point of this route and the region’s largest city, Bilbao, is home to its own international airport. Bilbao airport is small, but it serves a number of major airlines and destinations across Europe and further afield, meaning that it is easy to reach the Basque Country from a number of different areas of the continent.

Major cities in the Basque Country are also relatively easily accessible via bus or train from other metropolitan areas of Spain. San Sebastian is also located incredibly close to the French border, so you can very easily reach Spanish Basque Country from France, as well.

When in the cities like Bilbao and San Sebastian, you can get around mostly on foot or by using the public transit system – in fact, the is the easiest way to get around the cities.

However, you will likely find it easiest to undergo the rest of this route if you make this a Basque Country road trip itinerary. Doing any of the day trips mentioned and visiting the smaller towns on your own terms is much easier if you choose to hire a car.

If you choose to do this, we suggest browsing for a great deal on Rentalcars.com , which has a number of different options across many car hire companies.

If you don’t drive or simply don’t want to, you can easily get between major cities relying on the bus and train (you can view schedules here ), but you will not have as much freedom or flexibility. The day trips are also mostly reachable by public transit, but you will be at the mercy of erratic timetables that may not align with your plans or wishes.

Going on day trips by organised tour is also an option, but again, you don’t have the freedom or flexibility when doing this than you would if you had your own vehicle. You can view day trip options here on GetYourGuide or here on Viator.

All in all, it is definitely best to rent a car to really get the most out of your time exploring Spanish Basque Country.

5 to 7-Day Basque Country Itinerary

This itinerary begins in Bilbao and ends in San Sebastian, however, you could easily reverse it if you happen to be beginning in San Sebastian. As mentioned above, if you only have 5 days in Basque Country, then you can opt to cut out either day 2 or 3 and days 6 or 7 of this route in order to adequately plan out your time.

Day 1 – Bilbao

Begin in the region’s largest city, Bilbao . Once a gritty and industrial place, Bilbao has seen a massive transformation in recent decades and it is now a modern, eclectic and artistic metropolis. Known for being home to its own branch of the famed Guggenheim Museum, there is far more to this city than this home of modern art.

Spend your first day in Bilbao wandering through the lovely La Ribera Market and exploring the sites of the Old Town. Gorge yourself on pintxos (the Basque version of tapas) in some of the many fantastic bars in this area before taking a leisurely stroll along the Estuary of Bilbao where you can take in all of the lovely architecture along the water.

If you want to see the sites with some context, consider taking a walking tour of Bilbao. There are both free walking tours and paid options available.

End your day by taking the funicular up to Mount Artxanda and enjoying the fantastic views of the city below. After you come down, unwind on another pintxo crawl while enjoying the fresh and delicious Basque cuisine. Join a food tour if you want to explore with a guide!

Where to Stay in Bilbao

Hotel Gran Bilbao – If you’re looking for a luxury option in Bilbao, then this swanky hotel is a great option. It is centrally located and excellent for exploring the city and they have a number of lovely rooms on offer to ensure you have a great stay.

Hotel Bed4U Bilbao – An excellent mid-range option, this hotel is located within easy walking distance of all of Bilbao’s top attractions. They have a number of clean and comfortable rooms available and even have an on-site fitness centre and bar should you want it.

Latroupe la Granja – For those travelling solo, on a tight budget or who simply want a social atmosphere, this central hostel is an excellent choice. They have both private and dorm rooms available, there are great common areas where you can meet other travellers and all rooms are ensuite.

Private Rental – If you want to live like a local in Bilbao, then a private apartment rental is an excellent choice. There are lots of properties to choose from – like this modern flat in the Old Town – that can suit all kinds of travel styles and budgets.

Not quite what you’re looking for? Click here to browse more Bilbao hotels!

Day 2 – Bilbao

The second day of this itinerary has you going deeper into exploring beautiful Bilbao. Today, take the time to head over to the New Town and see the sites over here. Begin your day by admiring the Zubizuri Bridge before wandering over to the lovely Casilda Park.

Then, head over to the Guggenheim Museum. Even if you don’t opt to visit the interior of the museum, make sure to take the time to admire the architecture of this beautiful building. For those interested in modern art, consider taking a guided tour which also includes skip-the-line tickets.

You can also visit some of the museum’s most popular sculptures, like the famous “Puppy.” If the Guggenheim doesn’t interest you but you are a classical art fan, then you could also opt to visit the Fine Arts Museum located in Casilda Park.

After your time in the museum, visit some of the great pintxos bars that make their home in the New Town for lunch. And once you’ve had your fill, hop on the metro and head to the town of Getxo.

This is a city that is separate from Bilbao, however, it is still accessible on the city’s public transit system. Located at the mouth of the Estuary of Bilbao, Getxo has a small beach and a lovely seaside promenade. It is also known for the impressive Vizcaya Bridge, which is definitely worth seeing.

If the weather is fine, then it can also be a great idea to take the metro even further to Sopelana, which is home to one of the most beautiful beaches in the Bilbao metro area.

Day 3 – Gaztelugatxe, Bermeo & Guernica

On day 3, take the time to get out of the city and explore some small sites and towns in the region. You can either visit these sites independently if you have a car or you can join a guided tour.

Start your day by visiting the striking island of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe. This place is known to be a filming location for HBO’s Game of Thrones (where it was used for Dragonstone). You cannot visit the castle and island itself at this point, but you can hike to some viewpoints and get a very scenic lookout at this striking spot.

Next, mosey further along the coast until you reach the charming seaside village of Bermeo. This place is small but it is very worth visiting for a classic Basque charm. There is a lovely harbour you can walk along and there are also some great restaurants, so it makes for an excellent lunch stop.

Your final stop for the day should be the city of Guernica. This town is perhaps best known for Pablo Picasso’s painting of the same name, which depicts the horrific aerial bombing of the town on a market day in 1937. The city itself is known to be a capital of Basque culture and it is very much worth visiting and exploring for a number of reasons.

Day 4 – Bilbao to San Sebastian

Day four will see you going from Bilbao to San Sebastian. This is a great opportunity to take the time to explore some more areas along the coast en route to your final destination.

Because we already will have visited a few places on the previous day, make your first stop on the Bilbao to San Sebastian drive be the small coastal village of Ondarroa. This is a lovely little town with a charming waterfront that is very much worth wandering around for a quick stop.

Next up, make sure you pull over at some viewpoints to take in the incredible scenery along the coast. Dramatic cliffs and beautiful beaches abound in this area. You can also opt to make a stop in the lovely town of Getaria. This little village is located on a small peninsula about 25 kilometres west of San Sebastian and is very much worth visiting.

You can make your final stop before arriving in San Sebastian the lovely city of Zarautz. This city is located about 20 kilometres west of San Sebastian and is home to an expansive beach with a lovely seaside promenade. Wandering in the city centre, there are also countless bars and restaurants to enjoy and wonderful streets to explore.

Where to Stay in San Sebastian

Hotel Boutique Villa Favorita – If you’re after a luxury hotel in San Sebastian, then this swanky hotel is an excellent choice. Located on La Concha Promenade close to everything this beautiful city has to offer, they have a number of great rooms available. There is also an on-site bar and free parking for guests!

Hotel Villa Katalina – For those looking for a lovely hotel on a mid-range budget, then this spot is an excellent choice in San Sebastian. Centrally located within easy walking distance of all of the city’s top attractions, they have a number of lovely rooms available and plenty of amenities to ensure you have a great stay.

Private Rental – If you’d like to experience San Sebastian like a local, then a private rental is an excellent choice for you. Places like this sunny apartment near La Concha beach can give you a great idea of what it might be like to live in this beautiful Basque city.

Surfing Etxea – For solo or budget travellers looking for a great social atmosphere, this hostel located in the Gros neighbourhood is a great choice. They have both dorm and private rooms available and this hostel is great for those who want to try their hand at surfing!

Not quite what you’re looking for? Click here to browse more San Sebastian hotels!

Day 5 – San Sebastian

Day 5 of this itinerary is devoted to exploring one of the absolute highlights of the Basque Country – San Sebastian . Once the summer residence of the Spanish royal family and now considered to be one of the gastronomic capitals of Europe, San Sebastian is an absolutely lovely place to spend a few days in.

Spend your first day here exploring the sites of the old town and eating your fill at some of the countless pintxos bars that line the winding streets. Hopping from bar to bar is one of the best things to do in San Sebastian. Join a walking tour or a food tour if you prefer to explore with a guide.

Take the time to wander along La Concha Promenade and, if the weather allows for it, spend some time on the beautiful beach.

You can also visit the gorgeous gardens at Miramar Palace, which was once the residence of the Spanish royal family. At the end of the promenade, you will find the iconic “Comb of the Wind” sculpture and also an old-style funicular that will take you up to Monte Igeldo.

End your busy day enjoying views from Monte Igeldo and, if you’re brave, ride the wooden roller coaster at the hilltop amusement park. You can take your time wandering back to the old town and, of course, find some more pintxos bars to gorge yourself on some more local delicacies.

Day 6 – San Sebastian

Your second day in San Sebastian will see you exploring the city further. Begin your day at one or two of the market halls in the city. Both the San Martín and La Bretxa markets are located in the city centre or old town and are a very good place to explore just how fresh Basque produce is!

Then, head over to the San Telmo Museum where you can learn more about the Basque history and culture. The Basque people have a language and culture completely different to Spanish and French and it is fascinating to learn more about it.

Now, wander out of the old town and along the Pasealeku Berria Promenade toward Gros and Zurriola Beach. Zurriola Beach is the main surfing beach of San Sebastian and it is a great place to watch the surfers catch some waves – or even go for a surf yourself!

The Gros neighbourhood is a hip and cosmopolitan area of the city that many tourists don’t venture to. It is, however, home to some of the city’s top restaurants and it is a great place for yet another pintxos crawl!

End your day by exploring the grand Centro neighbourhood of San Sebastian and enjoying the beautiful buildings, nice parks and, yes, plenty of fantastic pintxos bars.

Day 7 – Hondarribia, San Pedro & San Juan

The final day of this itinerary sees you heading out of the city once again. You have a few options here, but I recommend heading to the town of Hondarribia located right on the French border before circling back to visit the small fishing ports of San Pedro and San Juan. You can join a small-group tour  if you prefer.

If you don’t go for this option, there are a few places you could choose to go instead. For instance, you could opt to drive north and explore some towns in French Basque Country like St Jean de Luz, Biarritz or Bayonne.

You could also leave the Basque Country entirely and head south to the city of Pamplona , the capital of the Navarre region and home to the famous Running of the Bulls.

If you do opt for my suggested outing, however, you won’t be disappointed. Hondarribia is absolutely lovely and a very nice place to wander around. There is a pleasant seaside promenade where you can peer into France, a beautiful beach and a charming town centre.

The town of San Pedro serves as the main fishing port for the region and, as such, there are some great restaurants to enjoy here. The town of San Juan is located just across from San Pedro and there is a small ferry that can shuttle you across the waterway in just a few minutes. There is no timetable for this ferry, it just tends to go back and forth when there is a need.

Planning the perfect Basque Country itinerary can be tricky when you contemplate all of the fantastic places to go (and all of the delicious food to eat!). Whether you have 5 or 7 days to enjoy, you’re sure to fall in love with this unique and beautiful region.

Are you planning to visit Basque Country? Have any questions about this itinerary? Let us know in the comments!

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About Maggie Turansky

Maggie is a co-founder and writer for The World Was Here First. Originally from the US, she has lived in five different countries and has travelled to dozens more, both solo and with her partner, Michael. She particularly loves exploring Spain and spending time in the Caucasus and the Baltics. Read more about Maggie

Hi Maggie, This is a great itinerary that we plan to follow a lot for an upcoming trip. My biggest concern being how on earth we’ll make room in our stomachs for all the pintxos without missing out! I’m a little confused when trying to locate San Juan nr San Pedro? Assume it’s not San Juan de Gaztelugatxeko? or Donibane? As both take us west again. Could you give me a landmark or anything? Thanks

Hi Scott – San Pedro & San Juan are the Spanish names for the towns of Pasaia and Pasai Donibane. Apologies for any confusion!

Thank you very much for that useful information! I was thinking about combining the French and Spanish Basque country. Do you have any recommendations about the best way to combine them? We will have 8 days total. I was wondering. Is there more to see on the French side? Should I allow more days for French side? Thank you, Victoria

Hi Victoria, unfortunately, I don’t have any experience in travelling in the French Basque country so I can’t help you there.

Do you have any recommendations about the Basque wine region?

Unfortunately, we haven’t spent any time touring the wine region here.

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10 Day Itinerary For Basque Spain

“Everyone who has visited the Basque Country longs to return; it is a blessed land.” — Victor Hugo, French novelist

From its diverse landscapes to its vibrant art scene and UNESCO-recognized treasures, the Basque region of Spain will leave you in awe.

You have gorgeous green landscapes. The food is out of this world.

You can visit secret Spanish fishing villages, with flower-laden balconies. Or, you can glitz it up at ritzy resort towns like San Sebastian or cultural havens like Bilbao.

If you love seafood, sun, and breathtaking coastal vistas, Basque Spain is your place.

Here’s my guide to taking a 10 day road trip through the captivating Basque region of Spain. You’ll discover the hidden gems, must visit towns, and the breathtaking landmarks that make Basque Spain truly enchanting.

To access the Spanish Basque country, fly into either San Sebastian or Bilbao. As a major city, Bilbao is likely cheaper and has more flight options.

Bilbao connects to all of Europe. Use Bilbao and San Sebastian as your two bases for your 10 day Basque road trip. I give you tips on where to stay in each city.

Split your time evenly with 5 nights in each base, starting in Bilbao. Both cities make fantastic bases for day tripping. There’s no reason to move around constantly in the Basque region. Distances are close.

I like staying in small cities because you can usually end your day with delicious restaurant options. But parking an be expensive.

If you’d prefer to stay somewhere quieter and less expensive, you could pick one of the beautiful small towns I discuss below. If you want to avoid the crowds in the uber popular San Sebastian, Getaria makes a good alternative base.

Overview of 10 Day Basque Spain Itinerary

Here’s a quick snapshot of my recommended 10 day itinerary for Basque Spain, with all the best spots scoped out for you:

• Day 1 : Explore Bilbao
• Day 2 : Explore Bilbao
• Day 3 : Day Trip to Gaztelugatxe
• Day 4 : Day Trip to Enchanted Forest of Oma or Pamplona
• Day 5 : Day Trip to Onati & Arantzazu or to Vitoria-Gasteiz
• Day 6 : Drive to San Sebastian, stop in Getaria en route
• Day 7 : Explore San Sebastian and Zarautz
• Day 8 : Day Trip to Hondaribbia
• Day 9 : Day Trip to Biarritz France
• Day 10 : Day Trip to Guernica or Lekeitio

This super detailed 10 day itinerary is perfectly adjustable. You can make it shorter or longer, depending on your available vacation time or personal pace of travel. I’ve tried to give you a mix of cities, leisurely villages, and nature.

I’ve given you plenty of day trip options and choices as well, so you can tailor this Basque itinerary to your own interests. You can easily make this 10 day itinerary into a 14 day itinerary.

On days 4, 5, 7, and 10, I’ve given you options for visiting two different Basque destinations. If you dedicated one day to each of these destinations, you would have a more leisurely two week plan.

Perfect 10 Days in Basque Spain Itinerary

Day 1: explore bilbao.

Begin your 10 days in the Basque capital of Bilbao, pronounced Bilbow. When one thinks of Basque Spain, most people’s mind default to San Sebastian.

But Bilbao is an incredibly cool and underrated city in Spain. And much less crowded with tourists.

Bilbao is a small city beautifully situated amid rolling green hills and mountain ranges — an urban landscape in a country setting. Glimmering on the Nervion River, Bilbao is chock full of historic landmarks, Michelin restaurants, and world class museums.

1. Casco Viejo & Bilbi

After you’ve arrived and settled in, explore Casco Viejo. Bilbao’s medieval quarter. You can grab a quick bite for breakfast at Beetle Bar or Cafe del Arenal. Click  h e re  for an excellent guiding walking tour of this area.

In Casco Viejo, you’ll find the “seven streets” of the historic center, where Bilbao was born. They are teeming with lively and quirky cafes, pintxos (tapas) bars, tony shops, and tiny squares.

Locals mix with tourists and there’s definitely Basque energy flowing.

The centerpiece of old town is Santiago Cathedral, a 15th century church with a Gothic facade and decorations. It’s free to enter. For 2 euros, you can peak into the cloister from the famous Door of the Angel.

There are plenty of pretty churches in this area — Iglesia de los Santos Juanes, Isglesia de San Anton, and Iglesia de San Nicolas.

Connected to Casco Viejo is nearby La Vieja, nicknamed Bilbi, another ancient part of the city. Bilbi has a hipster vibe and is Bilbao’s trendiest district.

Full of funky bars, art galleries, bars and boutiques, it will keep you entertained and busy. Grab lunch here, perhaps at El Perro Chico.

>>> Click here to book a small group walking tour

2. Guggenheim Museum

In the late afternoon, art lovers should visit the world famous Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao’s Abando neighborhood. Inaugurated in 1997, Frank Gehry’s twisting shimmering museum is the star of Bilbao.

It’s been likened to both a palace and a ship. The museum even has its own Michelin-starred restaurant, Nerua Guggenheim Bilbao, focusing on local Basque ingredients.

The museum exterior courtyards are scattered with world renowned sculptures: Jeff Koon’s massive flowering Puppy, Louise Bourgeois’ 30 foot Maman spider, Anish Kapoor’s Tall Tree and the Eye, and the newest piece Fujiko Nakaya’s The Fog Sculpture.

On the inside, the architecture continues to amaze. There’s a glass-enclosed 50 meter atrium, crowned with a skylight in the shape of a metal flower. Light suffuses the place.

Inside lies a modern art collection on par with Europe’s best modern art museums. You’ll find works by Robert Motherwell, Cy Twombley, Yves Klein, Marc Chagall, Andy Warhol, Eduardo Chillada, and Anselm Kiefer.

A highlight for me was walking through Richard Serra’s outsize and powerful Matter of Time steel sculptures.

Click  here  to book a skip the line ticket and tour of the stunning Guggenheim Museum. To see it all, you can book a  small group guided tour  or a  private tour of the Guggenheim .

3. Azkuna Zentroa

To the west of Guggenheim lies what may be Bilbao’s most beautiful and interesting building, Azkuna Zentroa .

It’s a bizarre but brilliant culture and leisure center. The building was reimagined by French designer Philippe Starck.

On the outside, it’s a mock medieval castle. On the inside, Azkuna is all Starck, an adventure in experiential contemporary art.

Its vast foyer is supported by 43 squat stylized pillars. It houses a public gym, swimming pool (with a glass bottom), a library, a restaurant, tapas bars, a rooftop terrace, and modern art exhibitions.

4. Plaza Nuevo

For a pre-dinner cocktail, head to 19th century Plaza Nuevo or the “New Plaza.” It’s a beautiful Neo-Classical arcade square.

Plaza Nuevo is a gourmet heaven, where tourists and locals commingle sipping wine and eating pintxos, the Basque version of tapas.

A popular pintxos spot in Plaza Nuevo is Cafe Bar Bilbao. Each Sunday, there’s a flea market in the square.

5. Bilbao’s Famous Restaurants

Bilbao has a vibrant foodie scene. You’ll be here for five nights, so you will get a real chance to sample the wares. Loosen your belt.

Bilbao has 22 Michelin starred restaurants , including one three starred restaurant, and is considered a foodie haven. Azurmendi , with its three Michelin stars, is the jewel of Bilbao. Restaurant Mina is another culinary trendsetter and deserving Michelin star recipient.

Aside from these heavy hitters, Bilbao also has fabulous local restaurants, many scattered throughout its old town. You can find innovative pintxos and food at Irrintzi, La Vina Del Ensanche, Cafe Iruna, and Ledesma No 5.

Because Bilbao is such a foodie town, it’s a great place to take a guided gourmet food tour or a guided pintxos tour .

Day 2: More of Bilbao’s Must Visit Attractions

1. el ensache.

On day 2, explore more of Bilbao. In the morning, stroll through Bilbao’s El Ensache neighborhood. The main boulevard of this tony neighborhood, known as the Gran Via, is Gran Via Don Diego Lopez de Haro.

It’s the most cosmopolitan area of the city. There are lots of first rate shops, restaurants, and bars.

This area contains some of Bilbao’s most important renovated and eye catching buildings, including La Equativo, by Manuel Galíndez, the Banco de Bilbao, by Pedro Guimón, and the Naviera de la Sota y Aznar building, by Manuel María Smith Ibarra.

> >> Click here to book a history and architecture walking tour of Bilbao

2. La Ribera Market

For lunch, head to the foodie paradise of the Mercado de la Ribera food market on the Nervion River. La Ribera is Europe’s largest indoor food hall, in the southern part of Bilbao.

There’s been a market on this site since the 14th century. Today’s beautiful Art Deco building was built in 1929. As part of Bilbao’s urban renewal, the market was restored and reopened in 2011 to acclaim.

You’ll see goat carcasses and pig heads. But you can also check out the beautiful stained glass panels.

>>> Click here to book a market tour

Bilbao’s wolfish coat of arms is in the largest panel. Across from the Ribera you can admire the beautiful Neo-Baroque Teatro Arriaga, modeled after the Opera Garnier in Paris .

3. Museum of Fine Arts

After lunch, head to Bilbao’s Museum of Fine Arts in the Abando district Although it’s overshadowed by the Guggenheim, the Museo de Bellas Artes is one of Spain’s best museums.

The museum boasts over 10,000 art works, arranged chronologically from the 12th century to the present. It has works by Spanish luminaries such as Picasso, Goya, El Greco, Zurbaran, Murillo and Chillada.

If you’re a nature lover, you can stroll in the adjacent Dona Casilda Iturrizar Park after your visit.

4. Funicular de Artxanda

When you’re done admiring the art, take a funicular ride from the Bilbao’s city center to Mount Artxanda for an aerial view of the city.

It’s a must do activity in Bilbao. From the Guggenheim, cross the stark white Zubizuri footbridge and it’s a short walk to the funicular.

After enjoying the views, pick another of Bilbao’s fine restaurants for dinner. Or go on a pintxos crawl.

Day 3: Day Trip to San Juan de Gaztelugatxe

On day 3 of your 10 days in Basque Spain, take an easy day trip to the absolutely jaw dropping San Juan de Gaztelugatxe . It’s a magical spot about 45 minutes from Bilbao.

Gaztelugatxe is really a must see natural wonder in the Basque Region and has become TV famous. On a bright day, the views are unbelievable.

In the wildly popular HBO series Game of Thrones, Gaztelugatxe appears as Dragonstone — the haunting ancestral home of Daenerys Targaryen, the Mother of Dragons.

In real life, Gaztelugatxe is a fantastical ancient stone foot bridge winding up to a 1,000 year old hermitage chapel on Spain’s Bay of Biscay. It’s a dramatic hike.

Because of its remote location, Gaztelugatxe is most easily accessed by car. From Bilbao, take the B1-631 highway. Follow the signs and park on top of a hill off the main road and walk 1 kilometer down to the site.

You can also visit Gaztelugatxe on a guided day tour from Bilbao . You can also book a half day Game of Thrones tour from Bilbao.

When you’re done with your hike, head to nearby Bakio beach to cool off. But if you want a more beautiful beach, drive a little further to beautiful Sopalena Beach.

It’s one of the best beaches in Basque Country, where cliffs drop into the ocean.

READ : Complete Guide to Visting San Juan de Gaztelugatxe

Day 4: Two Day Trip Options, Enchanted Forest of Oma or Pamplona

Today, choose between two very different options. Either visit a unique painting inside nature in Oma or take a city break in the medieval town of Pamplona.

Pamplona is a longer day trip at a 1:45 drive. But if you are visiting in July, it’s worth it just to experience the “running of the bulls.”

1. Option 1: Enchanted Forest of Oma

Commissioned in 1982, the Enchanted Forest of Oma is a magical work of art in the middle of nature. Oma is a 1:15 drive from Bilbao by car. Park at the restaurant of Lezika. You can’t drive into the forest.

The Painted Forest of Oma is located in the Udaibai Biosphere Reserve, a UNESCO listed site. It was the brainchild of artist Augustín Ibarrolat, who transformed the forest into a beautiful open air art gallery.

He combined the techniques of rock painting from the Paleolithic period with Land Art, an artistic movement that uses nature as a creative material.

Ibarrola painted the pine trees so that the images change depending on where you are stand. You’ll see motifs of eyes, rainbow, geometric shapes, etc.

There are small yellow circles with numbers throughout the Forest. They show you where to stand and in what direction to look to see all of the shapes and figures.

The trail for the Forest or “Bosque Animado de Oma” is just across the road from the Lezika parking lot. You’ll walk for an hour walking uphill, on a road between the pine trees, until you reach the Forest.

You can find a map of the Bosque de Oma online with the titles of the different works next to the corresponding numbers. But you may want to just to walk around and let your imagination run riot.

2. Option 2: Pamplona

Pamplona is the leafy and underrated capital of the Navarre region in greater Basque Spain. It’s a well-heeled university town, home to one of Spain’s most famous and testosterone-fueled festivals, the Running of the Bulls, which takes place one week in July.

The San Fermin Festival, a 24/7 party atmosphere, attracts 1 million visitors annually to watch men outrun bulls (or be gored). You can book a balcony reservation to watch the spectacle.

If it’s not festival time, you can walk the path men and bull follow, called the Encierro. They run through narrow streets to the bull ring, the Plaza de Toros de Pamplona.

But there’s more to Pamplona than bulls. Even if the bulls aren’t thundering down cobblestone streets, picturesque Pamplona will still appeal.

It has a grand Gothic cathedral, well-preserved 16th century fortifications, and medieval streets and squares. Pamplona is also a stop on the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route.

Pamplona’s old town was beloved by Ernest Hemingway. The famed author used to nibble pintxos and fill up on the local liqueur, Pacharan, at the historic Cafe Iruna.

Hemingway set part of The Sun Also Rises in the pretty Plaza del Castillo and helped make the San Fermin festival famous. Pamplona’s Museo de Navarra also a collection of Goyas, Roman mosaics, and murals.

You’ll also be in foodie heaven in Pamplona. Spain is known for its jamon, queso, and croquettas. But Navarre is know for the intense freshness and quality of its produce.

If you stay for dinner, try La Olla, Bar Gaucho, El Mercao, or Bodegon Sarria. You can also book a guided food and wine tour in Pamplona.

Just outside Pamplona, in the village of Alzuza, there’s a museum dedicated to the great Basque sculptor Jordge Oteiza.

Day 5: Day Trip to Onati & Arantzazu or to Vitoria-Gasteiz

On day 5, choose between Onati and the Sanctuary of Arantzazu or the pretty small city of Vitoria-Gasteiz. If you’re in the mood for a lovely low key Spanish city, choose Vitoria. If you want a modern monastery and natural beauties, head to Onati.

1. Option 1: Onati

The old university town of Onati is reminiscent of Seville, Andalusia’s sultry capital. It has lavishly decorated buildings and a mystical medieval atmosphere. The town’s highlight is its ancient university. The town center is buzzing with eateries, a Gothic church, and the Church of San Miguel Arcangel.

Just outside Onati is the futuristic Sanctuary of Arantzazu , founded as an old Franciscan monastery. It’s of huge importance in the region and perched at the very top of a winding mountain road. Built in 1950, some historians say it’s the first contemporary religious building and the most avant garde church in Europe.

To enter, you glide through oxidized iron doors carved by famed Spanish sculptor Eduardo Chillada. Stained glass windows bathe the altar in blue and green light. In the crypt, you’ll find rather bizarre paintings for a sacred space, scenes of nuclear war and the big bang.

Not far from the sanctuary are the Arrikrutz Caves . Opened in 2007, they are home to some slow growing stalagmites and stalactites. Skeletons of several extinct species of animals including cave lions and woolly rhinoceroses, were found in the caves.

You can book a guided day tour to Onati from Bilbao .

2. Option 2: Vitoria-Gasteiz

Vitoria -Gasteiz is a lovely art-filled small city about an hour from Bilbao. It’s surprisingly overlooked by tourists and well worth a visit in its own right.

Vitoria has all the charm of Bilbao and San Sebastian, but none of the crowds. The town has received some good press in the last decade.

In 2012, Vitoria-Gastiez was named Spain’s Green Capital, for its profusion of pedestrianized squares, gardens, and parks. In 2014, the town was named Spain’s Gastronomy Capital for its delicious restaurants and foodie culture.

In 2021, National Geographic named Vitoria among the 25 best travel destinations, calling the city a “timeless place that will define our future itineraries.”

At the summit of Vitoria, you can stroll through its impeccably preserved medieval quarter. The streets are named after medieval craftsmen’s guilds. You may want to book a guided walking tour of the historic center .

Gape at the magnificent and imposing Cathedral of Santa Maria. The Gothic cathedral dates from the 13th and 14th centuries.

Browse in the beautiful Plaza de la Virgen Blanc. In the plaza, you’ll find lots of shops and eateries.

Then, take a stroll in the old quarter and under the arcaded passageways of the Paseo de Los Arquillos. Vitoria-Gasteiz is also known as the “painted town” and there are street art murals scattered throughout the town.

Art lovers can’t miss the Atrium Museum, opened in 2002. In subterranean galleries, you’ll find a fantastic collection of modern art.

It includes pieces by Chillada, Miro, and Oteiza. Vitoria-Gasteiz also has a fine art museum, where you’ll find works by other Spanish artists.

If you stay in town for dinner, head to the Michelin-starred Zaldiaran. Another tasty option is Ikea.

If you want pintxos, head to the award winning Sagartoki. The tourist office also offers a “Pintxo Map,” so you can do a proper pintxos crawl of the town.

You can book a Vitoria and Rioja tour from Bilbao . You can also book a guided day tour with wine tasting .

Where To Stay In Bilbao

Bilbao has some beautiful hotels. Check out Vincci Consulado de Bilbao , a Riverside landmark with a nautical theme and views of the Guggenheim. The Occidental Bilbao has smart guest rooms and a massive swimming pool.

For a real splurge, check out the Hotel Carlton , a five star beauty with old world charm.

There are some nice boutique hotels too, like the artsy designer-styled Hotel Miro near the Guggenheim Museum. Gran Hotel Domine has sleek modern decor and views of Jeff Koon’s Puppy sculpture.

Day 6: Drive To San Sebastian, Stop in Getaria

On day 6, head to your next base, the popular San Sebastian. Stop in beautiful Getaria en route.

But for the presence of San Sebastian, Getaria could be a hotspot on the Basque coastline. Instead, it’s a hidden gem in Spain.

For planning purposes, Getaria is one hour from Bilbao and then it’s another 20-30 minutes from Getaria to San Sebastian.

Try to arrive in San Sebastian by mid to late afternoon, so you have time to enjoy the old town.

>>> Click here to book a walking tour of the old town

Getaria is one of the most charming towns on the Basque coast, jutting out into the sea with an attractive sandy beach (Gaztepe). It’s an pristine medieval fishing village with old world charm, stone houses, and gorgeous landscapes. You’ll have picture-perfect coastline views.

Getaria is home to the Basque regions’s signature drink, txakoli, a sparkling white wine. You can visit several wineries in and around the town. The town is also known for its seafood, particularly baby squid and turbot.

Getaria also has a pretty Gothic church and is the birthplace of haute couture fashion icon Cristobal Balenciaga.

There’s a museum dedicated to his life and work. You get there via an incongruous outdoor escalator at the outer edge of the town.

San Sebastián

San Sebastian is an lovely resort town on the Bay of Biscay. This Basque city is objectively beautiful and tourists flock there in droves, so expect crowds.

San Sebastian is renowned as an otherworldly paradise, foodie resort town, and beachy playground of the glitterati and literati. The city’s filigreed balconies and Belle Epoque buildings give the city a classical elegance.

San Sebastian’s stunning beach, La Concha, is world famous and considered one of Europe’s best beaches. In 2019, La Concha Beach was voted one of the Best Beaches in the World by Tripadvisor. San Sebastian has quite a bit of panache and refinement, thanks to its French influences.

If you’re a food traveler, you’ll be in seventh heaven. San Sebastian is frequently dubbed the “ food capitol ” of the world.

It boasts three restaurants with the rarest of accolades, a three star Michelin rating: Akelarre, Arzak, and Martin Berasategui. Reserve way in advance, if these restaurants are on your to do list for San Sebastian.

Spend the late afternoon strolling in San Sebastian’s pedestrianized historic center, Parte Vieja. It’s sprinkled with an endless variety of upscale stores, vibrant pintxo bars, and tony restaurants. You can book a 2 hour guided walking tour to see it all.

Be sure to check out the beautiful Bell Epoque City Hall, the Basilica of Saint Mary of the Chorus, San Vicente Church, and the Cathedral of the Good Shepard.

San Sebastian’s old town also has one of the Basque region’s best museums, the San Telmo Museum . Housed in a restored convent and a contemporary wing, you’ll find both artifacts and cutting edge modern art.

Parte Vieja has an abundance of pintxos (tapas) bars. The cardinal rule of Basque pintxos-bar dining is to never stop moving, sampling different bites on your nocturnal journey.

The best ones are Gambara and Txepeta. Or, just wander between Calle Fermin Calbeton and Calle 31 de Agosto and see what’s on offer.

San Sebastian is one of the best places to take a food tour in Spain! Here are some of your options:

• guided tour with pintxos and tastings
• 3 hour “I travel for food” tour
• food tour with market visit
• private food + history tour

Day 7: Relax in San Sebastian and/or Zarautz

On day 7 of your 10 day Basque Spain itinerary, you may be ready for a day on the beach and some time outdoors.

Sometimes a mid vacation chill day is the perfect way to break up a trip. So spread out on San Sebastian’s famed “shell” beach La Concha and relax.

If you want some exercise to leaven the sunshine, you can stroll along the dreamy C-shaped beachside trail.

At the far west end, just beyond Ondarreta beach, are metal sculptures — the Comb of the Wind , by renowned Basque artist Eduardo Chillada. It consists of iron installations in the rocks, which seems to “comb” the wind as the water crashes.

Hike up Mount Igueldo for the classic San Sebastian vista. Or, hike up the lesser known Mount Urgull to the local castle, the 12th century Castillo de la Mota. The views are amazing.

If you’ve satisfied yourself with San Sebastian’s beaches or want something less crowded, you can also drive just 15 minutes to another pretty beach town, Zarautz.

Zarautz was once the preferred vacation spot of Spanish royalty. It’s more laid back than San Sebastian.

Zarautz’s claim to fame is a 1.5 miles long beach, dubbed the “Queen of the Beaches.” It’s the longest in Basque Spain.

If you want to grab a bite to eat in Zarautz, the speciality is squid with onion. Try dining at Kirkilla-Enea Jatetxea or Otzarreta.

Day 8: Day Trip to Hondarribia

After braving the tourists in San Sebastian, now it’s time to get off the beaten path. Tranquil Hondarribia is a pretty resort town located on the Spanish-French border.

The historic city center is surrounded by city walls and a drawbridge. It’s filled with cobblestones streets and colorfully painted houses with flowers spilling out of flower boxes. It has both a water level fisherman’s district with great restaurants and a hilly medieval quarter.

In the town center, you’ll find the Castle of Charles V (now a hotel), the Gothic Church of Santa Maria de la Asuncion, and plazas with al fresco cafes. There’s also a nice beach, if you want to relax and swim.

Have cocktails in the main square, Plaza de Armas. If you want to stay for dinner, this tiny village has two Michelin starred restaurants, Restaurante Alameda and Maison Eguiazabal.

Day 9: Day Trip to Biarritz France

Yes, Basque France is close enough that you can easily day trip there. And who can resist an easy journey to another country?

The glamorous jet set town of Biarritz is one of the best day trips from San Sebastian. You can book a guided day trip tour from San Sebastián to Biarritz.

Half ritzy and half hippie, Biarritz is a popular beach resort and former playground to European royalty. The grand villas are lighter than in Basque Spain, white with green and red shutters and slate rooftops.

The charming French resort town of Biarritz feels like another world, both sophisticated and laid back. You can book a guided walking tour to get oriented.

While you stroll, admire the postcard views, take a seaside stroll, and lounge on Miramar or Grande Plage beaches.

There are loads of beautiful churches, designer boutiques, and modern art galleries. And, of course, amazing Basque food.

Halles Market is a good place to explore Biarritz’s food culture. For the best seafood, head to the Place Saint-Eugenie.

If you want pintxos, head to the Rue des Halles. Happily, for those who love baked goods, there’s a bakery on every corner.

You can book a guided day tour from San Sebastian to Biarritz or a day tour from Bilbao .

Day 10: Day Trip to Gernica or Lekeitio

On your last day, you have two options, depending on your individual taste. History buffs should head to Guernica. Lovers of charming villages should head to Lekeitio.

1. Option 1: Guernika

Gernika (also called Guernika) is a pastoral workaday town steeped in history, which will appeal to history buffs. It’s where the Basque Assembly hold its meetings. The entire city center was destroyed by bombs during the Spanish Civil War.

The event was immortalized by Pablo Picasso in his famous anti-war piece Guernica at the Reina Sofia in Madrid . There are several museums in the town exploring this history, including the Peace Museum.

Two important landmarks remain despite the bombing, the Biscay Assembly House and the Guernica Tree. The tree is where the lords of the Bay of Biscay met for centuries to discuss politics, until the Assembly House was built. The house has a spectacular stained glass window.

If you went to Pamplona instead of the Enchanted Forest of Oma on day 4 of this Basque itinerary, you can visit the forest in combination with Guernica. It’s only 5 minutes away.

>>> Click here to book a guided tour to Gernika from Bilbao

READ : 2 Day Itinerary for Madrid

2. Option 2: Lekeitio

Laid back Lekeitio is a beautiful and tiny fishing village. Lekeitio is one of Spain’s best kept secrets, a real hidden gem.

It has an idyllic harbor, a Gothic church, and a fine golden crescent beach where you can kick back and wile away a day. You’ll see goats and sheep cavort in the mountains and hazy cliffs circled by seagulls.

Lekeitio’s best attraction is the rocky island, San Nicholas Island (also known as Garraitz), just offshore of its main beach. During low tide, you can walk the trail for a seaside view.

Have dinner at Meson Arropain, Or, spend your evening back in San Sebastian, perhaps going on your last pintxos crawl.

Where To Stay In San Sebastian

San Sebastián has hotels ranging from grand luxury spaces to art-themed boutiques.

Hotel de Londres y de Inglaterra is a luxury hotel that sits right on San Sebastian’s grand seafront promenade. Hotel Maria Cristina is a stunning Belle Époque hotel a short walk from La Concha.

Akellare Relais & Chateaux is where you go for a splurge. The refined hotel has seaside views and a renowned 3 star Michelin restaurant.

Hotel La Galeria is an elegant boutique hotel in a Hausmann-esq mansion. Hotel Zenit is a four star boutique hotel with a beautiful rooftop terrace.

Tips For Spending 10 Days In Basque Spain

The Basque region is high in the mountains of northeastern Spain. The Basque are Europe’s inscrutable people.

The Basque have a unique culture and language, neither French nor Spanish. And their ancient language, Euskera , isn’t related to any European language. So your Spanish likely won’t help you in this region.

In Basque Country, you eat pintxos, not tapas. Pintxos are bite size snacks, typically a delicious morsel of meat, fish, cheese, or vegetables (anchovies are super popular) skewered onto a piece of bread with a toothpick.

Pintxos are smaller than tapas and are not served on a sharing plate. They are usually laid out on a bar. You help yourself to what you like, as opposed to ordering from a menu.

In the Basque region, it rains a fair amount. But rain comes mostly the in late autumn and early winter.

But always carry layers. In terms of climate, the summer is the best time to visit, though you’ll have crowds, especially in San Sebastian. I’d aim for September.

Driving in Spain is fairly easy. The highways are fantastic and easy to navigate. You’ll need an international driver’s license.

Book your car early. If you can drive a manual transmission, a rental car is much less expensive. Choose the smallest car possible that will accommodate you, your traveling companions, and luggage.

I would purchase full insurance just in case. There are routine radar speed traps all across Spain. On the spot fines are outrageous. So let the speedy Spaniards drive on by you.

Have some cash handy for paying tolls. Bring your own GPS (phone, iPad) and have an eternal charger handy to keep it charged up.

I hope you’ve enjoyed my 10 day itinerary for Basque Spain. You may enjoy these other Spain travel guides and resources:

• 3 Day Itinerary for Barcelona
• 3 Day Seville Itinerary
• 2 Day Itinerary for Madrid
• 10 Day Road Trip From Madrid to Seville
• Six 1 Week Itineraries for Spain
• 25 Famous Landmarks in Spain
• 10 Day Itinerary for Andalusia
• Most Beautiful Cites and Towns in Andalusia

If you’d like to spend 10 days in Basque Spain, pin it for later.

7 thoughts on “10 Day Itinerary For Basque Spain”

I will use your itinarary Thank you!!! Can i print it?

Great! Thank you, hope you enjoy the trip. You can print from your computer, but you may want to print the pages separately so you can try to avoid printing the photos.

Headed to that area in September and this itinerary is taking so much stress off. Thank you for this!

You’re welcome! Enjoy, it’s gorgeous.

You could also consider going into the La Rioja wine region. Haro makes a good base for that.

Thank you so much for this. It makes my planning of a family vacation easier by orders of magnitude, having never been to Europe at all. I am using it as a baseline and adjusting as I go. The first 5 days are really nailed down though. I’m going a little further in to France Bayonne after taking in Biarritz. Muchas gracias y merci!

Thanks. Have a great trip Richard!

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Last Updated on March 7, 2024 by Leslie Livingston

The Best Destinations to Visit in the Basque Country

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The Basque Country is a far cry from what you may think of when you picture Spain. You won't find much flamenco dancing or paella here (and if you do, run — you've likely stumbled upon a tourist trap), but rather a rich and proud culture. The Basque people take great pride in their heritage and identity, and visiting the little region they call home is a fantastic opportunity to immerse yourself in their culture and way of life.

This gorgeous gem of a region along Spain's northern coast offers a whole wealth of natural beauty, sophisticated cities, and charming small towns you'll fall in love with immediately. If you're not sure where to start, try narrowing it down from this list of our top Basque Country destinations — there's sure to be one you'll adore.

Here, we'll be focusing on destinations within the Spanish Basque Country. The region also extends part of the way up into southwestern France. Don't miss our guide to the French Basque Country if that neck of the woods is on your itinerary.

San Sebastián

TripSavvy / Paula Galindo Valle

With picturesque Belle Epoque architecture, an unbeatable food scene, and gleaming coastlines surrounding some of Europe's best urban beaches, San Sebastián 's appeal is undeniable. While most visitors flock to this stunning coastal city in the summer months, its packed cultural calendar and lively lifestyle make it worth a visit at any time of the year.

If you're only going to do one thing in San Sebastián, eat . From the city's classic pintxos bars like La Cuchara de San Telmo to Michelin-starred wonders such as Arzak , it's easy to see why the city is considered Europe's best city for foodies.

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Head just a little ways out of San Sebastián to the west and soon you'll find yourself in one of the Basque Country's most charming coastal destinations. A humble fishing village teeming with authentic, local charm, Getaria is a haven of gorgeous landscapes and quaint traditional architecture, which combine beautifully to provide postcard-perfect views.

Getaria is home to the Basque Country's signature drink, txakoli , a refreshing semi-sparkling white wine. Pop into a local bar or take a vineyard tour to try some straight from the source. 

The town was also the birthplace of fashion icon Cristóbal Balenciaga, and today is home to a fascinating museum documenting his life and work.

JTPalacio/Getty Images 

No list of Basque Country destinations is complete without Bilbao . As one of the region's largest urban areas, this awe-inspiring city provides an experience unlike any other, where modern architectural wonder stand side-by-side with iconic historic buildings.

You may recognize Bilbao's Guggenheim Museum from its Frank Gehry-designed futuristic exterior. However, the inside is absolutely worth a visit as well, hosting one of the best modern art collections in Spain as well as regular cultural events. 

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Most people know Guernica as the title of the stunning Picasso masterpiece that takes up an entire wall in Madrid's Reina Sofia Museum . The painting depicts the most grim day in the small town's history: the bombing of the city during the Spanish Civil War. However, Guernica (the town) has risen from the ashes to become one of the Basque Country's most charming small-town destinations.

You can't visit Guernica without acknowledging its past. A respectful way to do so would be by visiting the Peace Museum , which hosts many fascinating permanent and temporary exhibitions explaining the historical context of the bombing and promoting peace. 

Vitoria-Gasteiz

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As the capital of the Basque Autonomous Community in Spain, Vitoria-Gasteiz provides a metropolitan, cosmopolitan feel blended seamlessly with local tradition. With gorgeous architecture and a down-to-earth feel that will make everyone feel at home, this is a spot that should definitely not be overlooked.

Vitoria-Gasteiz's beautifully preserved medieval city center takes you on a breathtaking journey back in time. Seek out architectural wonders such as Bendaña Palace and the old city walls (dating from the 11th century), or simply let yourself to get lost in the charming cobblestone streets and see where you end up. 

Hondarribia

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If there's one thing the Basque Country has in spades (other than tasty pintxos), it's stunning beaches. Hondarribia (also known by its Spanish name, Fuenterrabía) has made its way onto travelers' radar in recent years as one of the best day trips from San Sebastián, thanks in part to its beautiful coastline. However, despite its growing popularity, it manages to retain its traditional small-town charm and authenticity.

Make your way through the Old Town and marvel at the traditional Basque homes lining the streets in bursts of color. Another must-visit area is the Marina neighborhood, a lovely pedestrianized barrio with no shortage of excellent dining options.

Rioja Alavesa

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When you come across a bottle of rioja, Spain's most ubiquitous red wine, you might assume that it was produced in the northern region of La Rioja. Most of the time, you'd be right. However, part of the denominación de origen calificada Rioja wine region extends up into the Basque Country, stretching into the province of Álava. Wines produced here still earn the prestigious D.O.C. Rioja label, but with the addition of one important word: Alavesa . 

As the capital of the Rioja Alavesa region, the town of Laguardia is a must for curious travelers seeking gorgeous views and excellent lesser-known wines. Visit a nearby winery, such as Bodega Casa Primicia , for a tour and tasting. 

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With a long maritime history stretching back centuries, Bermeo proudly holds a status as one of the most important fishing towns on the Basque Coast. Its charm is undeniable, with a colorful, quaint marina (surrounded by great pintxos bars) and a privileged location in the heart of the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve. The rugged natural beauty is truly breathtaking and provides for once-in-a-lifetime views.

Head out to the nearby San Juan de Gaztelugatxe hermitage for a lovely seaside walk leading up to the small chapel on a hill. If the weather permits, you might not be able to resist the temptation to go for a relaxing swim in one of the small beaches at the bottom of the steps. 

At one point, Zarautz was the preferred vacation spot for Spain's royal family, handpicked by Queen Isabella II herself in the 19th century. Hundreds of aristocrats soon followed suit, and the small coastal town earned its status as a can't-miss summer hotspot. Today, Zarautz offers a sophisticated yet unpretentious vibe perfect for travelers looking for something a bit more laid back than San Sebastián but with all of the charm.

Stretching a mile and a half along the coast, Zarautz's beach is the longest in the Spanish Basque Country. The waves here are unbeatable, making it a prime spot for surfing. Grab a board and hit the waves with the locals.

Shaun Egan/Getty Images

With a perfect location right between Bilbao and San Sebastián, Lekeitio makes an ideal spot for a day trip from either city. However, despite its small size, the beautiful landscapes and undeniable charm of the town itself will make you wish you could stay longer.  

It's not every town where you can literally walk to an island. But in Lekeitio, you can. At low tide, you can make your way across the sandbar to San Nicolas Island, which offers unbeatable views of the town from its peak. (Just be sure to head back before the tide rises again.)

In the town itself, the Basilica of the Asunción de Santa María serves as a stunning example of Gothic architecture both inside and out. 

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Basque Country

Get to know the provinces of Basque Country

Gipuzkoa (Province)

Bizkaia (Province)

Araba-Álava (Province)

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Places not to be missed

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Cathedral of Santa María

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Arriaga Theatre

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Beach: La Concha (Donostia-San Sebastián)

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“Peine del Viento” sculpture

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Guggenheim Museum Bilbao

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BASQUE COUNTRY

Basque Country Travel Guide

The name Euskal Herria is how the natives of the Basque Country refer to their land. It simply means, “land of the Basque speakers.” And Basque has been spoken by the feisty inhabitants well before the Romans ever arrived. Their full history as well as the origins of their language have long been shrouded in mystery.

However, their identity is very evident. This can be seen in the plethora of Basque music, dance, sports, festivals and food – all of which are celebrated with great fervor by the Basques.

Even with this strong identity, a new image of the Basque Country is emerging. Bilbao , which is now a mecca for design and architecture was, until some decades ago, a city full of decaying industrial complexes.

The city underwent a transformation and some of the finest architects in the world were invited to leave their mark. The Guggenheim Museum designed by Frank Gehry is the most well known example and it’s now the number one tourist destination in the entire Basque region.

San Sebastian is also redefining the Basque image around the world with its extraordinary cuisine. The city has 14 Michelin stars spread across 6 restaurants. It is also one of the best places to eat pintxos – culinary creations in miniature form, similar to Spanish tapas but better.

San Sebastian isn’t the only place to eat amazing food. Located just 20 minutes up the coast, the beautiful town of Hondarribia is quickly becoming a hotspot for foodies. And once you’ve eaten all that tasty food then a trip to Spain’s best wine region – la Rioja – is not far off.

There’s still so much more to be discovered in the Basque Country. The region is packed with quaint villages like those found in the French Basque Country and numerous fishing communities found along the coast. There are beautiful beach resorts such as Biarritz and some of the best surf spots in the world. Have a look through our travel guide and website – because there is just far too much to mention here.

Basque Country's Top Things to Do & See

Bilbao is the beating heart of the Basque Country as well as the region’s largest and most cosmopolitan city. Bilbao’s main draw for visitors is, without a doubt, the Guggenheim Museum.

This impressive building designed by the architect Frank Gehry, is considered to be one of the most important structures of contemporary architecture. The construction of the Guggenheim marked an important turning point in the history of Bilbao.

Over the past several decades, the city has undergone a huge transformation. The old decaying industrial complexes along the river have been ripped up and a new modern Bilbao has emerged. Countless world class architects have since left their mark on the city.

Today, in addition to the Guggenheim Museum, there is a timeless Metro system designed by Sir Norman Foster, an airport and a bridge from Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava and a community center (Alhondiga) designed by Philippe Starck. The list goes on and on.

Much like the rest of the Basque Country, Bilbao is constantly evolving. While the city is embracing the future, it is also conserving its past and there is plenty of old Bilbao to be discovered. Whatever you are looking for, whether it’s savory Basque cuisine , Basque culture , shopping, nightlife, etc., you will find it in Bilbao.

San Sebastián

San Sebastián, or Donostia as it is called in Basque, is a majestic city with beautiful beaches and an impressive culinary scene. The city was first made famous during the Belle Époque era and is where Queen Maria Cristina established her royal summerhouse.

Since then, San Sebastián has attracted wealthy beach-goers in search of sun and sophistication. And it’s no wonder why.

The city’s main beach, called La Concha, is for sure the most beautiful urban beach in Europe. Luxurious beachside mansions run along La Concha, as well as the famous spa called La Perla (The Pearl) and its boardwalk is lined by an ornate white railing that has become a symbol of the city.

If that already weren’t enough, there are two additional beaches in San Sebastian, one of which is also very popular with surfers.

In more recent years, San Sebastián has gained significant press for its cuisine. The city alone has 14 Michelin stars spread across 6 restaurants and famously boasts more stars per capita than anywhere else in the world other than Tokyo. Restaurant Mugaritz has been ranked number 31 in the world ( 2023 World’s 50 Best Restaurants ). It is in many ways like a mini Paris, except in Basque style.

San Sebastián is also famous for its pintxos (similar to tapas). And the best place to go to try some of them is the Parte Vieja (Old Part). This charming old city center is famous for having the highest concentration of bars in the world. This is where the pintxo is king and the food is taken very seriously.

Gernika is known throughout the world due to the painting by Pablo Picasso that bears the same name (although spelled the Spanish way, “Guernica”). It was this town that was bombed in 1937, the events of which inspired Picasso’s most famous piece of art.

The bombing by German and Italian air forces took many lives and left the town utterly destroyed. The destruction of Gernika was ordered by Francisco Franco in an attempt to overthrow the Republican government during the Spanish Civil War.

One of the reasons Gernika was chosen for the bombing is due to its importance both politically and historically. The Gernika Tree can be found here and it’s where, underneath its branches, Basques were granted autonomy in the Middle Ages.

Next to the tree is the Biscayan Assembly, a place where the political leaders have meet to decide the fate of their people over the ages. Both the assembly and the tree offer insights into the history of the Basque people and can give a deeper understanding of more recent historical events such as the Basque independence movement.

In addition, Gernika also has its own Basque museum, the Euskal Herria Museum as well as the Peace Museum. For those who are interested in Basque culture and politics, Gernika is a must.

On a lighter note, the city is also host to the Monday Market, one of the most important markets of the Basque Country.

French Basque Villages & Towns

The French Basque Country has numerous well manicured villages and towns with rustic charm. A majority of them are scattered throughout the interior among the green hills of the countryside and often only occupy a street or two.

Saint Jean de Luz is one of the exceptions that is actually located on the coast and it is also rather unique since it combines traditional old Basque architecture found in the interior with stately mansions that have a French influence.

This is due to the fact that in the 17 th century the town transitioned from being one of France’s most important fishing ports to a center for Basque corsairs. These corsairs looted and plundered and brought back incredible wealth to Saint Jean de Luz, the evidence of which can still be seen.

Today, Saint Jean de Luz is a sleepy beach town that is the perfect place for families or couples who are seeking to relax in the sun while experiencing the charm of a gone-by era.

In the French Basque interior, the most beautiful village is Espelette. Its picture-perfect streets are lined with traditional Basque houses, many of which feature Espelette’s number one export, the Piment d’Espelette (“Espelette pepper”).

These drying peppers proudly dangle from lines that are attached to the facades of the houses, creating the symbol of the entire village. It is a pleasure to stroll down its streets and take in the unique scenery while stopping once in a while at the stores and boutiques that sell not only the famous peppers but also many more local products such as chocolate and cheese.

Deep in the French Basque Country’s hinterland lies another beautiful village, St. Jean Pied-de-Port. It’s unspoiled and surrounded by a green landscape making it a great place for those interested in hiking and those in search of solitude & relaxation. It is a walled village and has numerous gates.

The most well known is the Porte St-Jacques which was made a Unesco World Heritage Site in 1998. St. Jean Pied-de-Port is also a popular starting point for many pilgrims traveling along the Camino de Santiago. The camino is also listed as a World Heritage by Unesco.

The Basque coast is full of beaches and there are far too many to even mention here. However, whichever kind of beach you are looking for, whether it is a city beach, a wild isolated beach, or anything else in between, you will find it in the Basque Country.

Laga & Laida Beaches - Located within the Biosphere Reserve of Urdaibai, these two beaches are two of the Basque Country’s most beautiful. Laida is quite special because it is located in the middle of an estuary and changes depending on the tide to reveal more or less of the sandbanks.

Lekeitio - A small town with a few special beaches and crystal clear turquoise water. In the bay lies an island that can be reached via a sandbank during low tide.

Hendaye - A 3km long sandy beach located on the French-Spanish border.

Biarritz - Posh beach resort that is popular among surfers. It’s the French Basque Country’s answer to San Sebastian.

San Sebastian - The city’s main beach, La Concha Beach, is considered to be one of the most beautiful city beaches in the world.

Saint Jean De Luz - Small beach resort that has a gentle bay and a beautiful old town. Good for families with small children.

Zarautz - Home to the longest beach in the Spanish Basque Country, known as "the queen of the beaches," and also to famous waves that attract surfers from all over the world.

Laguardia & the Rioja Wine Region

La Rioja is synonymous with Spanish wine and for good reason. Although Spain in general has very good wines, the bulk of the best wines are without a doubt coming from La Rioja. The region is divided into 3 areas: Rioja Alta, Rioja Baja and Rioja Alavesa.

Only Rioja Alavesa is located in the Basque Country and most points of interest are located within this region. However, if you are really into wine, it might be worth it to explore the entire region as the wine from the three different parts have their own particular characteristics.

La Rioja wines are of the highest quality, which is reflected in continuous ratings of 90+ points from Robert Parker, the world’s leading wine critic.

Not only is the wine amazing, but there are also many points of interest to be explored. Laguardia is a small, walled town set atop a hill in the heart of La Rioja Alavesa. The town once held a strategic military position and, because of this, tunnels and cellars were built under the houses.

After it was no longer of any military value, the villagers began to take advantage of the cellars perfect conditions for creating wine. And the rest is history.

Today, there are several wineries that still use the cellars and it is possible to tour them. It’s like stepping back in time before state-of-the-art facilities existed and the products were still very artisanal in nature. Laguardia is a definite “must see.”

There are literally hundreds and hundreds of bodegas in the region. Some are very traditional and some very modern. Modern examples can be seen at the Ysios Bodega from Santiago Calatrava and the Marques de Riscal Bodega from Frank Gehry.

Hondarribia

The village of Hondarribia is located on the Basque coast and is situated on the border with France. It is full of perfectly manicured houses with colorful wooden balconies. The architectural features reflect a kind of mixture between Spanish and the French Basque Country characteristics and make it of particular interest.

In addition to being a pleasure to explore, it is also home to some of the Basque Country’s best restaurants and is quickly becoming a foodies paradise.

Hondarribia is packed with a huge number of amazing restaurants and bars – some of the very best in the region in fact. If you are into Basque gastronomy, your trip won’t be complete if you don’t visit Hondarribia.

The well-preserved Old Town, a relaxing maritime atmosphere and fantastic food are only some of the reasons why Hondarribia is one of our favorite places in the region.

San Juan de Gaztelugatxe

San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, whose name means “castle rock” in Basque (“gaztelu” = castle + “aitz” = rock), is a definite “must” if you are visiting the Basque Country. It is an awe-inspiring island located just off the shore along the Bay of Biscay. The views to, from, and around the island are simply beautiful.

San Juan de Gaztelugatxe is accessed by a man-made stone bridge. The bridge transitions into a narrow path that contains 241 steps and zigzags its way back and forth to the top. At the highest point of the island there is a tiny church dedicated to John the Baptist.

The island also has an intriguing history. Throughout the years it has housed a convent, served as a prison for Basque witches during the Spanish Inquisition, been used as a defensive outpost for the lords of Biscay, and was even ransacked by Sir Francis Drake.

Getaria & Txakoli Wine

Getaria is a charming fishing village that’s wedged between two beautiful beaches and a tiny island and sits adjacent to the green rolling hills of the getariako txakoli wine region.

Txakoli is a slightly sparkling, young and fruity white wine that is produced in these unique vineyards overlooking the ocean. Although txakoli has been around for centuries (the first mention of it dates back to 1520), it has just started to become popular in recent years, and not only in the Basque Country but also all over the world.

Some of the txakoli bodegas offer tours, while others offer tastings and almost all of them offer direct sale. However, to fully experience txakoli, you must visit one of the many restaurants at the harbor where you can enjoy a bottle with some freshly caught fish that is grilled outside over charcoals. The lovely setting along with great food and wine is one of the reasons we love Getaria so much.

But Getaria has more to offer, especially if you are into fashion design. This little town is actually the birthplace of the famous fashion designer Cristóbal Balenciaga.

Balenciaga, who was born in 1895, was a true fashion innovator and was respected throughout the fashion world for both his techniques as well as his perfectionism. In 2011, the Balenciaga Museum was opened in the Aldamar Palace and today, proudly displays many of his haute couture creations.

San Fermin – Running of the Bulls

The San Fermín festival and the legendary running of the bulls, attracts over a million visitors every year to Pamplona. The festival starts the 6 th of July at 12:00 PM with the “txupinazo,” a small firework that is fired from the balcony of the City Hall.

During the week of San Fermín, Pamplona is flooded with party-goers from all over the world each donning a white t-shirt and a red handkerchief. The activities and events of the festival consist of concerts, rural sport competitions, Basque dance and music, nightly fireworks shows and much more.

However, the most famous event of San Fermín is, without a doubt, the running of the bulls (“encierro” in Spanish). This event, which was immortalized in Ernest Hemingway’s book, “The Sun Also Rises,” takes place every morning at 8:00 AM between the 7 th and the 14 th of July.

Runners are chased by six bulls for approximately 800 meters until they reach the bullring (“plaza de toros” in Spanish). This is a very dangerous activity and while some people train all year preparing for it, others decide to join at the last moment, convinced by the amount of alcohol drank during the night before. This makes the running even more dangerous and unfortunately 15 people have died doing it since 1924.

Nevertheless, the running of the bulls is an extremely popular activity and something unique that is worth seeing at least once.

Biarritz & Bayonne

Biarritz and Bayonne are separated by a mere 8 km, however, they are two very distinct places of interest. We have grouped them together here because if you visit one, you should definitely take the time and check out the other – you won’t be disappointed.

Biarritz Biarritz is famous for its beaches, therapeutic water and a thriving surf scene. It’s a place where posh restaurants and spas live harmoniously side-by-side with laid-back pizza joints and surf shops.

When Empress Eugenia, wife of Napoleon III, built her palatial summer residence next to the sea, Biarritz was forever changed. The small whaling town transformed into a trendy spa and holiday destination for France’s elite.

Today the town is full of grand summer houses and has an up-scale feel to it. However, the atmosphere in Biarritz has been balanced off by a laid back surf culture that has deep roots in the area. This interesting contrast forms part of Biarritz’s identity and adds to its charm.

Bayonne Every year, more than one million people descend on Bayonne for what is France’s largest festival, the Fetes de Bayonne. It is reminiscent of the San Fermin festival of Pamplona , where the bull plays an important role in many of the events throughout the week.

However, during the rest of the year, Bayonne is a relatively quiet and stress free city. It is a picturesque place with a nice mixture of Basque and French architecture as well as a massive gothic cathedral with a cloister from the 13 th century.

And if you are into food, then you might also want to check the local chocolatiers and the infamous Bayonne ham.

Nature Parks

In general, the Basque Country is pretty sparsely populated. Outside of the cities and towns, life still revolves around the Basque farmhouse, known as a baserri. Whether they are tending to a flock of sheep, raising livestock or making cheese, the Basques of the baserris still have a strong connection with the land.

It is a land full of natural wonders and thankfully many are protected natural parks. Not only can you experience the beauty of the parks but there is also a good chance you will come across a Basque shepherd with his flock or see some Basque ponies (pottokas).

Although there are far too many parks to mention here, we are listing a few of our favorites.

Urkiola - This nature park is situated in a mountain rage with the highest point being the Anboto at 1331 m. It is possible to hike to the top of the Anboto and to a few lower peaks. The views are impressive.

Urbasa-Andia - The highlight of this park is the Nacedero del Urederra – the birthplace of the Urederra river. A path runs along the river into the forest where pool after pool of clear blue water lead to a waterfall. The water color is simply amazing and even in person, looks surreal.

Bardenas Reales - This is one of only a few deserts in Europe and it’s definitely the most impressive of them all. There are several unique geological formations and some lovely landscapes. Explore the park by car or get in a little deeper by hiking or riding a bike on one of the many paths.

Le Petit Train de la Rhune in Sare - This quaint train has been operating for more than 90 years and takes visitors 905 meters up the Rhune Mountain to get a 360° view of the Basque Country and the Atlantic Ocean. Great for those who want the views without having to hike.

Ruta del Flysch - If you are into long all-day hikes, then you shouldn’t miss the Ruta del Flysch. This path goes along the coast between the towns of Deba and Zumaia and offers amazing vistas of the coastal flysch rock formations. This is the most beautiful hike of the entire Basque Country in our opinion.

Basque Gastronomy

It’s possible to find good food all over the Basque Country. However, San Sebastian and Hondarribia are probably the two places with the highest concentration of quality establishments.

If you are interested in visiting a Michelin starred restaurant, be sure to check out our Michelin page that contains all of the Michelin restaurants located within the Basque Country.

Pintxos The Basque Country has its own unique food culture that revolves around the bar. Pintxos ( bite-sized appetizers, similar to tapas ) can be found in nearly every bar. Often the bar counter will be filled with plates of all different varieties.

They range from being rather traditional to very experimental in nature. It is typical to find the locals out enjoying a drink while sampling different pintxos and then going on to the next bar to do the same thing all over. This is sometimes done before a meal as a kind of aperitif or it can take the place of a normal meal.

In addition, every city and town has yearly competitions for the best pintxos and the winning trophies are proudly displayed within the bars.

Sagardotegi The Sagardotegi (sidrería in Spanish), is another special Basque tradition. It is a type of cider house that is found within the Basque countryside. These restaurants serve a traditional set menu with their highlight being the enormous txuleton steak .

This mouth-watering slab of un-adulterated beefy goodness weighs in at around one kilo and like the other plates are shared by those at the table. The other highlight of the sidrería is the endless supply of cider from giant wooden barrels (kupelas in Basque).

The sidrería is a great chance to experience something uniquely Basque and eat like a king.

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Basque country history.

No one is exactly sure where the Basque people come from. The people along with the language seem to have been around since long before indo-european speakers arrived. Basque speakers lived predominately in Aquitaine which extended through the Pyrenean Mountains and north along the French coast.

The area changed hands many times through history and eventually, in the Middle Ages, the Kingdom of Castile gained control over what is today the Spanish Basque Country. Navarre became its own Kingdom and the French Basque Country was absorbed by France.

Basque Fueros (set of laws similar to a constitution) were established between the Basque regions and their respective kings and allowed for them to function as an autonomous community. These fueros were used as the rule of law until after the Second Carlist War in 1876 when they were stripped away. This action was the catalyst that started a movement towards nationalism.

After enjoying hundreds of years of autonomous rule, the Basques were now being oppressed and starting to lose aspects of their culture and identity. In response to this, Sabino Arana, who is considered to be the father of Basque nationalism, created the Basque National Party (PNV) and started a cultural renaissance.

Everything that was considered Basque was celebrated. Arana also designed the Basque flag, called the Ikurrina, which can still be found in use throughout the Basque Country.

The nationalist movement gained most of its momentum following the Spanish Civil War (1936 - 1939). The dictator Francisco Franco took control of Spain and the Basques suffered greatly under his heavy hand. In his quest to create a unified Spain, languages and customs not considered to be Spanish were prohibited. This also included the use of the Ikurrina.

However, the flag was often placed in public places and became a symbol of defiance. Franco created an obvious backlash by trying to destroy the Basque culture and that helped give roots to the nationalist movement.

In 1959, a new chapter of Basque history began with the formation of ETA (Euskadi Ta Askatasuna – "Basque Homeland and Freedom"). The group started by promoting Basque culture but later developed into a paramilitary group whose goal was to have an independent Basque Country.

Some of ETA’s first attacks were generally approved of by Spanish and Basque societies who saw them as part of the fight to put an end to Franco’s regime. They were responsible for the assassination of the Spain’s Prime Minister and successor to Franco, Luis Carrero Blanco. Many consider Carrero Blanco’s death as an important step in the establishment of Spain’s democracy.

ETA subsequently continued their fight for independence for more than 50 years in what has been referred to as “Europe’s longest war.” The conflict resulted in the deaths of more than 1,000 people. In 2011, ETA announced a “definitive cessation of its armed activity.” It seems now that this chapter of Basque history has finally come to an end.

Basque Language

Euskara, the language of the Basques, is the last remaining descendent of the pre-indo-european languages. Throughout time the area containing Basque speakers continued to shrink, but as luck would have it, never completely disappeared.

Since it is the last survivor of its language family, it is considered a language isolate, meaning that it doesn’t have any relationship with any other language.

Euskara suffered greatly during the dictatorship of Francisco Franco (1939 - 1975) since it was prohibited. By the time Franco died, the language was in steep decline. In an attempt to save it, the Basque Language Academy (Euskaltzaindia) took the various Basque dialects and combined them, forming a standardized Basque language called Batua.

Batua was introduced into the education system and it is now common for children to take either some class or all of them in Basque. This along with newspapers, magazines and a TV station have helped the language rebound.

Today, one of the most significant criteria for being Euskaldun (Basque) is the ability to speak the language. There are only 715,000 native Basque speakers who are very proud of their language. They don’t expect visitors to be able to speak a word.

So you can image how impressed a local would be if you, a foreigner, said anything to them in Basque. This is the easiest way to make friends in Euskal Herria. For this reason we have compiled a list of words and expressions to aid you in your journey.

The weather in the Basque coast is quite moderate due to the ocean breeze. Some areas on the coast are more susceptible to rain. The interior has temperatures that are slightly more extreme. Usually a few degrees hotter in the summer and a few degrees colder in the winter.

The wine region of La Rioja Alavesa has a microclimate and in the summer is almost always sunny. Summers are warm, but not incredibly hot like the south of Spain for example. It is not unusual though for temperatures to reach 30ºC (86ºF).

Bilbao : Loiu airport is the largest in Basque Country. There are cheap flights with Easyjet and Vueling to London and with Vueling to Barcelona and Malaga. There are many connections to other European cities with other companies such as Iberia, Lufthansa, Air Berlin, Bruxelles Airlines.

San Sebastián-Donostia : Hondarribia Airport has flights to/from Barcelona & Madrid.

Biarritz : Flights with Ryanair from Dublin, London (Stansted), Shannon (Ireland) and Frankfurt, and with Sterling Airlines from Oslo and Copenhagen.

Madrid : It is possible to catch a flight to Madrid and then take a bus or a train to the Basque Country. Direct buses run approximately every hour and take about 4 - 5 hours.

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Daily connections are offered to main cities from Paris, Madrid and Barcelona. You can also travel within the Basque Country with the scenic routes of the EuskoTren network. The main drawback to EuskoTren is that is takes about twice as long as the same trip by car.

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Both Spain and France have extensive bus infrastructure and this is one of the easiest and most comfortable ways to travel. You can always find connections between cities and most larger towns. However, access to more remote villages may be limited as would be expected.

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A rental car is really great to have in the Basque Country. It makes for access to some parts of the region such as San Juan de Gaztelugatxe and to the sagardotegis (traditional Basque cider restaurants in the countryside) much easier.

Driving along the coast and through the Basque interior is beautiful. If you do rent a car, we recommend not staying on the highway the whole time and driving through the country side as it is very rewarding and you get to see a part of Basque life that you would otherwise not be able to.

Some of the highways are also toll roads in the Basque Country. The most expensive one is between Vitoria and San Sebastian and costs around 12 €.

If you take the alternative free route, it takes about 20 minutes longer, but is much more scenic.

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Basque Country in Spain: A Complete Guide

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Known as an autonomous Spanish community, the Basque Country in Spain delights visitors who make the effort to travel north. Immediately recognized for its fierceness when it comes to its traditions and lifestyles, Basque, Spain’s softer side is being uncovered once again. Some of its most attractive characteristics include curved sandy beaches, sprawling coastal vistas, welcoming hospitality, and a uniquely divine culinary scene.

The Basque region of Spain may be small when compared to the rest of the country, but it packs a powerful punch that ensures you won’t soon forget your visit to the north.

7 Things to know before you visit the Basque in Spain

Forget what you know of, or the variety of things to do in Spain . This is the Basque Country and we think you’ll find it’s actually more like a different country. Here are some important things to keep in mind when traveling through the Basque region:

• The primary language isn’t Spanish: This can be confusing because this is Spain, after all. However, Basque is the official language here and Spanish comes second — maybe. It’s not a guarantee that everyone you encounter will be multilingual. Learning a few key Basque phrases before you go will get you far.
• Don’t talk politics:  While touring Basque Country , bear in mind that it is almost perfectly split into two political subsets; those who are in support of the Basque region’s independence and those who are loyal to Spain. You’ll see evidence of this all over, but it’s best if you keep your opinions to yourself — especially if you don’t know who you’re talking to.
• Know your pintxos : The Basque-style tapas are little bite-sized morsels and are the perfect snack or pre-dinner appetizers. There are places solely dedicated to serving up these savory snacks, and the varieties are vast. Study up on some of the best choices (like anchovy, salted cod, or prawn brochette) before you arrive.

• Drink sidra : The Basque region of Spain is famous for its food and drink and they do it well. Sidra, made from local apples, sits at the top of the list. This cider is light, refreshes the palate, and pairs well with a variety of food.
• Get used to the grill: It’s the preferred method of cooking in the Basque Country. Eat a lot of fish and eat it grilled.
• People are friendly: Don’t be shy in the Basque Country. It’s a tight-knit community, but Basque people are very open to meeting and chatting up new folks. Start with a friendly kaixo (hello) and go from there.
• Get to know Bilbao: This is the Basque Country’s biggest city and a place you will undoubtedly spend a good majority of the time.

5 Must-visit Destinations in Basque region of Spain

The Basque region’s most popular destinations are Bilbao and San Sebastian. However, there are other lesser-known places between the two that make great stops for the intrepid traveler. Below you’ll find tips and advice on things to do in each popular destination as well as the ones that aren’t as frequent.

1. Bilbao: Mecca of art & design Museums, galleries, and architecture rule in the Basque Country’s biggest, most bustling city. There are plenty of opportunities for art enthusiasts to get lost in one of the city’s famous museums. If you fancy a little wander-round, Bilbao’s Old Town does not disappoint with its colorful architecture and lively pintxo bars and restaurants. Visitors can then head to La Ribera market for a comprehensive day spent eating, drinking, people-watching, and enjoying live entertainment.

Highlights 

• Ogle the ever-changing art exhibits at the Guggenheim Museum — the futuristic titanium-and-glass-paneled building.
• Satisfy your inner architect by wandering around Casco Viejo — the Old Town, which is chock-full of glorious churches, the Plaza Nueva Square, and lots of interesting old buildings.
• Marvel masterpieces from Goya and El Greco as well as more modern-day artists inside one of the region’s most important fine art museums — the Bilbao Fine Arts Museum.
• Check out some of our favorite pintxos bars while in town; the creative and contemporary Irrintzi and the original Café Bar Bilbao, open since 1911.
• Visit the La Ribera market — the historic 20th-century market is the biggest indoor market in Europe and encompasses food stalls, product stalls, bars, restaurants, and live music spaces.
• Although Lehendakari Aguirre Street in Deusto and the San Francisco district contain cheap bars and shops, avoid these two areas at night — the streets around here are known for being prowled by an unfavorable crowd.

2. San Sebastian: For the love of beaches

With Sandy shores, surfer communities, breathtaking vistas, and lively nightlife, San Sebastian serve as a perfect seaside escape. By day, time is passed on one of two of San Sebastian’s most popular beaches; La Concha for those who want to lounge and Zurriola for those who seek an adrenaline-pumping surf break. Bookending both sides of La Concha Beach are two lush grassy knolls, enticing visitors who make the trek up with hilltop rewards. By night, Parte Vieja is the place to be for pintxos and bar hopping. Sleep, repeat.

• San Sebastian’s pride and joy — Lounge on La Concha — a mile-long golden-sand shore with crystal clear waters.
• Head to Zurriola Beach — a hot spot for surfing, boasting excellent swell and several surf shops with board rentals.
• Party in Parte Vieja — the pedestrian-friendly old town pulses with an energetic nightlife and bar options after dark and offers plenty of centuries-old sights to behold, like San Vicente Church, the oldest in the city.
• Work off all those cocktails and pintxos calories from the night before with a morning hike up Mont Urgull for some stellar vistas.
• Head to Monte Igueldo — a hilltop amusement park, a go-cart track, and panoramic views await at the top of the funicular.

Lowlights 

• Public bathrooms by the beaches shut down for two hours during siesta (13:00 – 16:00), so be sure to plan accordingly — especially if traveling with children.
• Plenty of lower-quality, mediocre pintxos bars have popped up in Parte Vieja. Do your research before picking a venue in this popular tourist area.

3. Basque Coastline: A scenic road trip

A road trip is definitely in order to truly experience the untamed beauty of the Basque Region of Spain. Start in Bilbao . Drive the leisurely 100 km to San Sebastian before cutting inland another 100 km to visit Vitoria-Gasteiz. Extend the triangular route with a jaunt down to Haro before completing the circuit back in Bilbao. This could potentially be done in two days, but splitting it up with a night or two spent in each destination is preferable. Especially when you learn of all the other interesting places you can stop along the way:

• Explore San Sebastian 's surrounding coastal towns — Gateria, Hondarribia, and Irun.
• With its 11th-century city walls, medieval palaces, and historic churches, Vitoria-Gasteiz’s intimate environment invites visitors to relax and stay awhile.
• Perched on the northern edge of the famed Riojas wine region , Haro boasts velvety red wines and crisp whites. Indulge in exquisite food complimented with a perfectly-paired wine.

4. Mundaka: More than a surfer’s paradise

Surfers will be chomping at the bit to get to Mundaka and ride its legendary left-hand barrel. However, there’s more to this coastal Basque town than big waves. It draws non-surfers with its charming port area crowded with historic homes, its beautiful beaches, and the opportunity to enjoy the natural surrounding beauty along its windswept cliffs. Best of all, the most photographed feature along the Basque Coastline is just 35 kilometers north of town.

• Surfers can relish perfectly formed barrels that roll for hundreds of meters.
• Take a spectacular view of the sprawling coastline from Santa Catalina Hermitage — a 19th-century religious retreat site located on a rocky outcrop.
• Go on clifftop strolls on Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve overlooking the rocky coastline and lush green rolling plains. It is a sure-fire way to appreciate your time in Mundaka.
• Stroll on the tranquil setting of Laidaxtu Beach — a small beach with warm, golden sand surrounded by the greenery of the Urdaibai Biosphere.
• Visit San Juan de Gaztelugatxe — the rocky islet can be reached via a causeway from the mainland and is topped by a 10th-century chapel.
• If you rent a car and drive from Bilbao be aware that parking is a problem, especially around the inner city.
• When swimming or surfing, remember that the currents can be strong and waves can be big — if you aren’t an experienced surfer, now is not the time to learn.

5. Lekeitio: The Basque Country’s best-kept secret Roughly halfway between Bilbao and San Sebastian, this gorgeous little seaside fishing town is pure bliss. A sleepy town in winter, visitors begin to creep in during the warmer months — but only those who are privy to Lekeitio’s charm. The travelers who do come here are mainly after a few leisurely days spent lying on Lekeitio’s magical golden shores where the River Lea meets the Bay of Biscay, slicing the land into two parts and creating two glorious beaches. However, its port, old town, and surrounding areas offer some worthy attractions all on their own.

• Head to Isuntza Beach, the main beach in town from which beach-goers can watch the changing tides.
• Dissected by the River Lea, Karraspio Beach is Isuntza’s other half. At more than 500 meters long, it’s Lekeitio’s longest beach.
• Walkout from Isuntza Beach and explore Saint Nicolas Island, only accessible at low tide when a sandy runway appears.
• Visit Lekeitio’s Port. The scene of small fishing boats bobbing in the water with last century’s wooden homes standing proudly in the background is definitely worth a few photos.
• Cobblestone streets and small shops and restaurants make Old Town the perfect place to explore after a fresh seafood dinner.
• Don’t miss the Church of Asuncion de Nuestra — the 15th-century gothic church located in the heart of the Old Town can even be viewed from Lekeitio’s sandy shores.
• Lekeitio is a small city with a population of roughly 7,000. If you’re into lively cities with plenty of entertainment options, Lekeitio may not be the place for you.

Best time to visit Basque Country in Spain

Summer (June, July, August) is considered the best time to visit Spain 's Basque Country. This is the season you can take advantage of the beaches, warm sunshine, outdoor attractions, al fresco dining, and all the summer festivals.

How long should I stay in Spanish Basque Country?

One week is a sufficient amount of time to explore the region. You can easily split your time evenly between Bilbao and nearby attractions (such as San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, Lekeitio, and Mundaka), San Sebastian (including the surrounding beach towns mentioned above), and Victoria-Gasteiz and Haro. Spend the extra night in whichever place you’re enjoying the most.

How to get to there

Depending on what you plan to do before and after your visit to the Basque region of Spain, there are multiple options for accessing the region:

• By car: If you plan to visit other parts of Spain before making your way to the Basque Country, you may opt to rent a car and drive from the popular tourist hub of Madrid. If you have time and want to make spontaneous stops along the way, this is a great option. Madrid and Bilbao are about 400 km apart and it’s nearly a straight shot all the way on the A-1 highway.
• By plane: Bilbao’s international airport receives direct flights from all over Spain as well as major cities in European countries like France, Belgium, Italy, Switzerland, Holland, Germany, and Czechia. The San Sebastian Airport connects to both Madrid and Barcelona.
• By train: it’s possible to reach the two main destinations in the Basque Country (Bilbao and San Sebastian) via train from Madrid or Barcelona. Bilbao boasts the highest number of train options, also receiving passengers from many other Spanish cities like Malaga, Segovia, and Salamanca. Trains to Victoria-Gasteiz are also available from Madrid and Barcelona.

With two distinct destinations (and a whole lot in between), there’s something to suit everyone’s holiday needs. Whether it’s stretching out on soft golden sand, wine tasting some of Spain’s finest, or getting to know the intimate feel of as many pintxos bars as possible, the Basque region is begging to be rediscovered.

Fortunately for tourists, the Basque Country in Spain has nearly fully bounced back from the political turmoil that once plagued it, making it a safe and peaceful place to visit on your next Spain tour . If you have Basque country on your bucket list, you can get in touch with our local travel expert to plan a customized trip to Spain . 

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Travel Guide to Basque Country

Squeezed into the coastline between the Cantabrian mountains and the French border in Spain , the three provinces of the Basque country conceal stunning scenery: mountains, rivers, sandy beaches and rolling plains of luscious green pasture to the south, dotted with vines. Bilbao 's glittering Guggenheim museum has become the new symbol of the Basque country . But the best reason for travelling to this part of the world is the gastronomía. In the universe of Spanish regional cuisine, the cooking of the Basques is commonly agreed to reign supreme, with an abundance of fresh, seasonal produce. And you can eat as well in its simple bars as in its Michelin-starred restaurants .

Where to stay in Basque Country

HOTEL CARLTON One of Bilbao's classic old hotels, in the city's commercial and financial district. The famous oval entrance hall with its domed skylight is almost worth the price of a room alone. Plaza de Federico Moyúa 2, Bilbao (+34 34 94 416 2200)

HOTEL ITURRIENEA OSTATUA Pleasingly decorated family-run pensione, one of the few hotels in the heart of the Old Town, and reasonably priced. Calle Santa María 14, Bilbao (+34 34 94 416 1500)

HOTEL MARIA CRISTINA Legendary, 'wedding-cake' grand hotel, dating from 1912, overlooking the Urumea River. Calle Oquendo 1, San Sebastián (+34 34 94 343 7600)

HOTEL NIZA Comfortable, old-fashioned hotel on the sea front; the best rooms have views over the promenade and Concha beach. Zubieta 56, San Sebastián (+34 34 94 342 6663)

The Basque region also has an impressive network of agriturismo networks offering accommodation on working farms. Prices are comparable with those of simple hostales or pensiones in the city centres and many farms offer breakfast. Consult the Spanish National Tourist Office (0870 850 6599; spain.info ) or contact the Asociacíon Nekazal (+34 34 902 130031; nekatur.net ) which offers advice in Spanish and English on selecting and booking agriturismo properties.

NB During the San Sebastián International Film Festival in September prices rocket and the hotels get fully booked, so book well in advance.

Where to eat out in Basque Country

The buzzwords here in terms of food are variety, authenticity and availability. Basque cuisine is most often praised for its excellence at the top-end. Chef -patrons of the calibre of Juan Mari Arzak, Pedro Subijana and Martín Berasategui (who have nine Michelin stars between them) are culinary wizards who compare easily with those in the highest echelons of French haute cuisine. But Basque gastronomy is also highly democratic. There is good food across all levels of society. Apart from the gastro-temples run by the above-mentioned chefs, there are bars where the art of the tapas – or pintxo as it's known here – is taken to exalted heights, and there are the simple eating houses where you can enjoy a three-course meal of plain, proper, freshly made local dishes such as zurrukutuna (cod with garlic and peppers), porrusalda (leek and potato stew) and piperrada (peppers and eggs ).

WHERE TO EAT IN SAN SEBASTIAN

This city is the heart of the Basque culinary world, a city that Bryan Miller, former food critic of The New York Times , says only Manhattan can top for great restaurants per head of population. This is where nouvelle cuisine first disembarked from France in the 1970s, transforming the hearty simplicities of Spanish eating into something eclectic and rich.

PINTXO BARS IN SAN SEBASTIAN

Calle San Jeronimo 21. This is a particularly good choice. The French influence is evident in the hot crab tartlets, the deep-fried asparagus, and the melting little croissant halves that replace the usual pintxo bread.

Calle Pescaderia 5. This pintxo bar is one of the best-kept secrets. Known as the 'temple of the anchovy', these little fish are sensationally good, cured in vinegar with everything from sea urchin eggs to olive paté, crabmeat and papaya.

ALSO WORTH A VISIT

RESTAURANTE ARZAK Alto de Miracruz 21 (+34 34 94 327 8465); arzak.es

RESTAURANTE REKONDO Paseo de Igueldo 57 (+34 34 94 321 2907; rekondo.com )

WHERE TO EAT IN THE OLD TOWN

Known as the Parte Vieja , this area constitutes the narrow streets around the Plaza de la Constitución, where every other doorway seems to lead to a pintxo bar, a restaurant, a food shop or the headquarters of some gastronomic society. You can buy a guide to the pintxo bars of San Sebastián. Failing that, the best thing to do in the Parte Vieja is simply to wander between the Calle Fermín Calbetón and the Calle 31 de Agosto and see what's on offer.

WHERE TO EAT IN AKELARRE

The restaurant is dramatically positioned high on a clifftop with a panoramic view of the Atlantic Ocean. Choose from three tasting menus each priced at around £200 serving unique dishes such as steamed hake with plankton and oysters or ox tartar with new potato souffle. This is expansive and expensive food. Paseo Padre Orcolaga 56, Igueldo (+34 34 94 321 2052)

WHERE TO EAT IN MARTIN BERASATEGUI

Martín Berasategui worked with chef Alain Ducasse in Monaco and seven years ago decided to open his own restaurant on the outskirts of Lasarte, near San Sebastián. Since then he has garnered three Michelin stars and a reputation as the most brilliant Spanish culinary talent of his generation. He nurtures an organic kitchen garden and likes to boast that no less than 95 per cent of all his raw materials come from the Basque country. The restaurant offers a brilliant eating experience, which is consistently imaginative and exciting. The menu degustacíon The menu degustacíon is comprised of a series of visually stunning dishes, including fennel royale, red shrimp and anchovy from the Cantabrian Sea accompanied with wheat and liquorice juice and intensely flavoured cod jelly with asparagus pickled with ‘Añana’ salt and its cream – a combination made in heaven. It comes as no surprise to learn of Berasategui's great love of patisserie, with all its emphasis on precision and control of texture. You can see this dedication in the grilled hake steak with squid tartar and toasted walnut herb with hint of saffron. And the caramelised millefeuille of smoked eel, foie gras, spring onion and green apple is simply out of this world. Calle Loidi 4, 20160

PINTXO BARS IN BILBAO

RIO OJA Calle del Perro 6 (+34 34 944 150 871)

RESTAURANTE VICTOR Plaza Nueva 2 (+34 34 94 415 1678)

XUKELA Calle del Perro 2 (+34 34 944 159 772)

OTHER GOOD RESTAURANTS IN THE BASQUE COUNTRY

You can meander along the coast through the string of pretty ports: Mundaka, Lekeitio, Ondarroa, Zumaia and Getaria, sampling the food at each of their harbourside restaurants.

RESTAURANTE KAIA-KAIPE Calle de General Arnao 4, Getaria (+34 34 94 314 0500).

RESTAURANTE EL PORTALON Calle Correria 3, Vitoria (+34 34 94 514 2755).

Things to do in Basque Country

San sebastian.

From the view-point of the western end of the Concha, one of Europe's loveliest city beach, San Sebastián stretches out before you in a graceful arc. Behind the sand lies a strip of creamy whiteness: the grand hotels and apartment blocks, which eventually give way to the Old Town, the Parte Vieja . Explore the narrow streets around the Plaza de la Constitución, where every other doorway seems to lead to a pintxo bar, a restaurant, a food shop or the headquarters of some gastronomic society. There are in fact more than 60 such societies in the Old Town alone, many of them historical foundations dating back to the early 1900s and some of them obstinately resisting the election of women.

The Basque country is famed for its dazzling markets. Don't miss the Mercado de la Ribera in Bilbao and La Brecha in San Sebastián.

THE MERCADO DE LA RIBERA, BILBAO

This is housed in the great golden building looming up beside the river, where a wall plaque announces this to be the largest covered food market in the world. Whatever the size, there's no mistaking the quality of the produce. In late spring you may find bags of hand-shelled baby peas and thick asparagus wrapped in cabbage leaves in little square baskets. Upstairs, in a vast hall flooded with light from the stained-glass windows, there are more sights for sore eyes and hungry mouths: heaps of crumbly white sheep's cheese made that morning, racks of dried peppers hanging in crimson curtains, fat snails as big as walnuts and thin green peppers in vinegar – a Basque speciality – put up in pickling jars.

LA BRETXA, SAN SEBASTIÁN

The fish market in San Sebastián, is, if anything, even more impressive than the one in Bilbao, because the fish here are laid out on white marble slabs and lit theatrically from above, while the fishwives stand proudly behind on raised platforms. This is a society that takes its seafood with the greatest seriousness. Distinctions are made in the market, for example, between fish from the various Basque ports (Ondarroa is known for hake, Bermeo for sea bream) and the various methods of catching: hook or net. Depending on the time of year, you might find river crayfish, baby eels and that suggestive-looking and expensive delicacy, the barnacle. Seasonality and freshness are always cardinal rules.

How to get to Basque Country

AIRPORT Bilbao has its own airport. AIRLINES FROM THE UK easyJet (0905 821 0905; www.easyjet.com ) flies daily from London Stansted to Bilbao.

Shannon McMahon

CNT Editors

Sarah James

Alex Postman

Places to visit in the Basque Country, Spain

By Timothy O'Grady

Basque Country Itinerary

The Basque Country, as well as other regions along the Northern coast of Spain , is often called “unique and unusual Spain.” The uniqueness of this region is in its people, ancient language, history, culture, the harmonious interweaving of antiquity and modernity, and marvelous wine and gastronomy.

Today, this beautiful region is famous for the mountains with green forests, the cold and harsh Bay of Biscay, large beautiful cities, small cute villages, delicious cheeses, wine and fine cuisine. Explore the most emblematic spots of this moderate corner of Spain and you’ll want to return. 

My 7-day Basque Country itinerary is designed to assist you to discover all magnificent places and learn about the region and its people. Everyone will find something to his taste there. Nature lovers will also have a wide selection of great outdoor activities and lovely cities with wonderful beaches at the foothills of the Pyrenees.

Before I go into details on what to do and where to go, take a look at the list of things to know before you visit the Basque Country in Spain. 

Table of Contents

Essential things to keep in mind when traveling through the Basque region: 

The primary language is not spanish.

This can be quite confusing because this is Spain after all. Though Basque is the official language here, Spanish still comes second.

Although most people speak Basque and Spanish, it is not a guarantee that everyone you meet will be multilingual. This is why learning a few key Basque expressions before you go will get you far.

Do not talk politics

Most likely you won’t. Yet keep in mind that the Basque Country in Spain is almost perfectly split into two political subsets – those who are in support of the Basque region’s independence and those who are loyal to Spain.

You will see evidence of this all over but it is best if you keep your judgments to yourself. Particularly if you do not know who you are talking to.

Don’t forget about pintxos 

The Basque-style tapas are little bite-sized morsels that are the perfect pre-dinner appetizers or snacks.

There are lots of places entirely dedicated to serving up only these savory snacks, and the varieties are wide. Study up on some of the great choices before you arrive. Some of my favorites are prawn brochette, anchovy, and salted cod. 

Know when to go

When should you go on a trip to the Basque Country? Many recklessly think that since this is a region of Spain, the southernmost European country, it is always warm there and any time of the year is good enough. But it is not the case. 

In northern Spain, starting from the late autumn to early spring, local weather can be very cold, rainy and damp. Or maybe not. It’s just so unpredictable.

A lot of sources will say that the best time to visit is from April to October. I personally have been living in this part of Spain in the winter and was happy with my choice. 

The only thing to remember, when traveling to the Basque Country during any season, it can rain any time. 

So you may want, when packing for Spain , to put a travel-umbrella in your suitcase.

One-Week itinerary in Basque Country, Northern Spain 

Day 1: start with bilbao .

Beginning from the city of Bilbao, I highly suggest a visit to the Guggenheim Museum. Even if you are not a museum lover, this museum is worth a visit. The building is a great example of the most groundbreaking architecture in the 20th century.

You can head straight to the museum and then walk all along the Nervion river towards the Casco Viejo, admiring the extraordinary renovation of this part of the city. In the past, it used to be a very active industrial center but today it is full of modern construction and buildings such as the Cesar Pelli’s Iberdrola Tower,  Isozaki Towers, the Santiago Calatrava’s Zubizuri  Bridge, and Rafael Moneo’s Deusto  University Library. 

For the walk-in time, visit the modernist area with the gothic Cathedral of Santiago, Joaquin Ruicoba’s City Hall, Luis Ispizua’s Train Station, Arriaga Theater, La Ribera Market, and the Joaquin Ruicoba’s City Hall.

The Seven Streets of Casco Viejo is the oldest district and the original nucleus of the city of Bilbao which is a “must-visit” if you’d like to understand the beginnings of this city and try some excellent pintxos.

Day 2: Explore the Coast of Biscay 

For the Basque Country coast exploration, you need to hire a car . Getting to half of the places I mention below is more challenging if you don’t have your own vehicle. 

On the second day, after exploring Bilbao, you can head towards Donostia (municipality of San Sebastián) through the amazing Coast of Biscay.

On the way between Bilbao and San Sebastián, there are a lot of amazing places to stop by. Some of the most remarkable ones are Getxo, Bermeo, the astonishing San Juan de Gaztelugatxe island, World Heritage Bridge of Biscay, a small village of Mundaka, and quite a popular village of Gernika. 

Making stops in all these points of interest will take up the entire day. So instead of going to stay in San Sebastián (where you can stay the following day), instead, choose the lovely town of Getaria. It can be your host town for this night and where you can explore a few interesting sights in the morning. 

After an intense and very exciting day, make sure to enjoy an amazing dinner in one of the very prestigious restaurants. This delightful fishing town offers incredibly delish fish, well prepared in the barbecues. 

Day 3: Getaria and San Sebastian 

On the third day, in the morning you can explore a bit of Getaria. This town has an interesting Cristobal Balenciaga Museum, the monument that describes how Juan Sebastian Elkano, a famous local sailor, lead the first expedition that circumnavigated the Earth in the 16th century.

You can also visit Bodega Txakoli Aizpurua winery or D.O. Getariako Txakolina, the birthplace of San Ignatius of Loiola, founder of the Jesuits.

After an interesting and educating morning in the Urola region, it is time to enjoy a ride along the coast and through the mountains passing the towns of Orio and Zarautz, before you finally get to San Sebastian. I suggest you spend the night in San Sebastián city. In the evening, once you get there, visit and explore the local gastronomy with a must-do “pintxos tour” in the Old Quarter with a local host. 

Day 4: Dedicate the entire day to San Sebastián

Spend this day in a city that is considered a mini Paris.

There, stroll by the perfect beach in Europe which is also among the best beaches in the world, the famous La Concha Beach. Walk around Parte Vieja also known as the Old Town, pay a visit to Good Shepherd Cathedral and visit the pretty Miramar Royal Palace. The Palace was built in the year 1893 for the queen Maria Cristina who was for 40 summers one of the main “mecenas” of this picturesque and classic city. And by the way, she was the one who put San Sebastian on the map.

Once by Ondarreta beach, stop by the great Eduardo Chillida’s work Peine  del Viento. It’s also called “Comb of the Wind” and is presented as a monumental set of three steel shapes by the sea. Right there, if you have time and desire, there is also an option to visit the 1912 Amusement Park of the Monte Igueldo with sweeping views of the area.

If you enjoy walking, a stroll around the famous promenade is a great way to get a feel for this lovely city. Passing by the famous La Perla complex will get you into the city center, also known as the Romantic Area. 

There, the Plaza Gipuzkoa, Avenida de la Libertad, Buen Pastor Cathedral, a lovely City Hall (once the most famous Casino in Europe built-in the year 1887), extravagant Maria Cristina Hotel and the classic Victoria Eugenia’s Theater are true symbols of the Belle Epoque which the city of San Sebastian lived through at the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th centuries. 

After that, cross the Urumea River and explore the beautiful area of Gros. At one point it was called the Garage Neighbourhood.  Nowadays, it is a modern, young, and active area with its wild beach of La Zurriola and the majestic Kursaal Convention Center.  

Crossing the river back will get you to enter Parte Vieja (the Old Town). Through its quite old and narrow streets, you can discover the charming world of pintxos, restaurants, and private Gastronomic Clubs, mixed with the kind and friendly people of Donostia.

Another suggestion for you is to stop at the central food market of La Bretxa. It is a great place to discover the main secrets of world-renowned Basque cuisine. Interact with the farmers and explore local food stands with fish, ham, olive oil, and meats. 

Day 5: Pasajes de San Juan and Hondarribia

Pasajes San Juan or Pasai Donibane in Basque Country is a small village located just ten kilometers from San Sebastian. It is part of a quite larger region called Pasajes, composed of Trinxerpe, San Juan, San Pedro, and Antxo, situated around a river and surrounded by the sea and mountains. All these towns are worth a visit and can keep you busy for one long day.

Without a doubt, the most charming village in the Pasajes region is San Juan. Upon arrival, you will notice the strong fishing tradition of this wonderful town as well as the strong Basque character of its people. 

One of the most adventurous ways to get to this charming village is on a very enjoyable hike through Ulia Mountain. If you don’t have a car, it is easy enough to walk (or hike) from San Sebastián to Pasaia from where you can take a ferry to another side to San Juan.

On the way, get a snack and a drink in a local fishermen bar.

In the afternoon time, you can go to the border with France and explore the lovely town of Hondarribia.

Days 6 to 7: Natural Parks of the Basque Country 

No matter where you decide to base yourself during the week in the Basque Country, it is easy enough to get away from the cities and explore the region’s natural parks.

If you have not done already, your best bet is to hire a car for this next section of the itinerary. 

Urkiola Natural Park is conveniently located between Bilbao, San Sebastián, and Vitoria-Gasteiz. In case, you want to stay overnight near the park, there are so many rural hotels and lots of chances for hiking and climbing.

On the last day in the Basque Country, drive an hour and a half southeast to another natural park – Aizkorri-Aratz, filled with limestone peaks and huge beech wood forests. And from there, it is easy to go back to your starting point and finish a week-long adventure. 

Anya  writes on her blog  Road is Calling  about slow travel lifestyle through life and work around the world. Her main goal is to share her knowledge of the hospitality business, online entrepreneurship, and how to become an expat through finding jobs abroad. Also, she loves showing destinations outside the main touristy sights and inspires others to venture to under-the-radar places. 

You might also like: A Road Trip in Andalucia A 10 day Spain Itinerary A 7 Day Spain Itinerary.

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Explore Basque Country: 10 Unforgettable Experiences

T ravelers who have been to Spain often ask about Basque Country, knowing its long and storied past. Basque Country  is unlike the rest of Spain. With their own Basque language called Euskara, Basque culture, Euskadi cuisine and a proud history, you’ll feel this unique spirit and a warm welcome wherever you go in Basque Country.  

World-class dining , medieval towns, picturesque fishing villages, festive celebrations and a unique cultural landscape draw visitors in from around the world. Here are my recommendations on the best places to visit in this amazing destination.

Read More: Best Countries to Visit with Kids

Where is Basque Country and why do travelers find it such a fascinating place to visit?

Basque Country is situated along the northern coast of Spain on the border of the Atlantic Ocean between the Pyrenees Mountains. This unique destination reflects the multi-cultural traditions of both Spain and France. Encompassing seven different provinces, four in Northern Spain and three in France, Basque Country covers over 8,000 miles along the coast of the Bay of Biscay. Also called Euskadi, the Autonomous Communities of Basque Country weave a magical spell of fascinating history, culinary excellence and outstanding viticulture for American travelers.  

The Autonomous Communities of Basque Country, Navarre, La Rioja in Spain and Pays Basque and Bayonne, France, are considered the home of the Basque people. Basque Country in Spanish is called País Vasco which means the “land of Basque speakers.”  

The capital of Basque Country is Vitoria-Gasteiz in the Alava province, boasting a medieval old town with lots of green space, contemporary art and plenty of outdoor recreation.  Nearby Rioja Alavesa  offers many small-batch wineries and vintage landscapes.

1. Visit the Largest City in Basque Country, Bilbao

Bilbao  is a great place to start your travels in Basque Country. Once a manufacturing town on the Nervión River, Bilbao has become a world class cultural magnet due to the opening of the Guggenheim Museum  in 1997. Designed by the internationally renowned architect Frank Gehry, this modern architectural wonder is constructed of titanium and steel that reflects the ripples of the water.

Standing outside the Guggenheim museum is the famous “Poppy Puppy” made up of colorful begonias by the thousands and it changes seasonally. A second outdoor sculpture is the “The Spider,” named Maman (mother) in French because the spider keeps a “mother’s watch” over the residents of Bilbao.

Inside the Guggenheim are three floors showcasing Spanish, European and international artists. My favorite exhibit is “The Matter of Time” by Richard Serra which features a metal maze that you walk through, surrounded by space in motion.

Thanks to the opening of the Guggenheim, many other cultural enterprises have sprung up on Bilbao, including the Euskal Museoa Bilbao Basque Museum, the Bizkaia Museum of Archaeology, and other museums exhibiting artifacts from Basque Country.

2. Take the Suspended Gondola on the Vizcaya Bridge

A don’t-miss venue that’s fun as well as practical is the hanging Vizcaya Bridge that crosses the Nervión River and links the towns of Portugalete with Las Arenas. It carries both passengers and cars. You have other options like climbing to the top, walking the bridge or riding across this UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Vizcaya Bridge is considered one of the few bridges still in use from the European Industrial Revolution before the 20th century.

3. Dine Divine in Basque Country

Basque Country has earned a well-deserved reputation for culinary excellence. Travelers come to explore Basque Country for its vast variety of gourmet restaurants, many with Michelin stars. More than 40 restaurants in the Basque region have received Michelin star recognition, the largest number of Michelin-starred restaurants in the world. It’s no wonder visitors come here just to indulge in their authentic Spanish cuisine as well as international fare.  

What diners discover is a traditional blend of Basque region recipes that have been handed down from families for generations, then blended with fresh, local ingredients to create signature chef dishes.

In San Sebastian, also known as Donostia by the locals, there are 11 restaurants with this distinction. Among them are Akelarre  anchored by Chef Pedro Subijana, one of the founders of the New Basque Cuisine movement with a menu that offers two different options for their tasting menu. Another winner is Azak , run by a four generation family, highlighting more than 1500 spices which create a mouthwatering array of flavors and a 7-course tasting menu. Amelia offers an open kitchen concept using sustainable ingredients from artisan producers.

What are Pintxos?

Even casual dining takes on a whole new level with delicious pintxos, called tapas in the rest of the country. Pintxos give you an authentic taste of Basque Country. You can expect to find unique combinations of meats, vegetables, cheeses and toppings, served on a baguette or skewer and held together with a toothpick. Actually, the word “pintxos” means spike in Spanish. Pair your favorite pintxos with a refreshing glass of txakoli, a sparkling white wine.

The best way to taste your way through the Basque region is to do like the locals and go “Pintxos Bar Hopping.” Taste a few at one bar and then move to another one for a few more pintxos.

4. Walk on La Concha Beach in San Sebastian –the Best Beach in Spain

La Concha Beach, located in San Sebastian, is the focal point of the city and considered by the locals as the best beach in Spain. Some even say it’s the best beach in Europe. La Concha is shaped like a shell, which gives the beach its descriptive name. Check out the fabulous sculptures of Comb of the Wind, a collection of three massive curved sculptures by local artist Eduardo Chillida. Take a walk, sail or surf on these blue-green waters along the Basque Coast.

5. Discover the French Side of Basque Country

In Biarritz, visitors will find chic beach resorts and luxury spas along this coastal destination in Basque Country. Located on the Bay of Biscay along the Atlantic Coast and bordering the Pyrenees Mountains, Biarritz is known for its seaside casinos and status as a surfing mecca. The city is easy to get to from both Bilbao and San Sebastian. What was once a destination for high society, has become a popular tourist spot with a lively nightlife. See the Rocher of the Vierge, also known as “Virgin of the Rock” created by Napoleon and walk across the footbridge to see the white statue of the Virgin Mary.

Bayonne, France is the urban center and capital of the French Basque Country, which blends both cultures. Known for its many festivals, including the 5-day Fest de Bayonne, everyone wears white with a red scarf to celebrate. French chocolate also originated in Bayonne and hosts a yearly Chocolate Festival. Last year, they reproduced the famous Guernica work by Pablo Picasso entirely made of chocolate.  

Soule, France is the smallest province, but the rockiest. It inhabits the western part of the Pyrenees Mountains where the D’Orhy is the highest peak in Basque Country. Soule is known for its manufacture of espadrilles, which continue to be popular throughout the world. Tour one of their workshops to see how they’re made and be sure to bring home a traditional pair or two. Experience their famous Basque language folk theater, performed almost every Sunday.

6. See Pamplona – Ernest Hemingway’s Novel Setting

Pamplona is the capital city of Navarre known for the setting of Hemingway’s novel, “The Sun Also Rises.” Hemingway was captivated by the “Running of the Bulls” which took place every July at the annual San Fermin festival and he returned to this lovely city by the sea many times. Obsessed with matadors and bullfighters, Hemingway incorporated the themes of bravery and death in his novel. Today, Pamplona attracts visitors to nearby wineries such as the Rioja Wine Tour where they can enjoy the lush vineyards. and sites like the Pamplona Cathedral, the first Christian church built. Do try a local specialty, the white asparagus, grown on the banks of the Ebro River, which actually originated in Navarre.

7. Explore Getaria – A Small, Fishing Port

Discover this small, medieval fishing port filled with charming shops and fascinating history. You’ll find chefs cooking their catch on the barbecue right outside their restaurants, enticing you to come in. Getaria is also the birthplace of fashion designer Cristóbal Balenciaga who ruled the fashion world for generations. Plan to visit the Cristobal Balenciaga Museum and see his couture designs worn by the rich and famous. Try their special cider made in the region of Gipuzkoa called Apple Wine.  

8.Be captivated by the medieval town of Hondarribia

What was once a strategic location along the Spanish-French border is now a quiet village full of charm. Walk along the seafront, enjoy fresh seafood at the marina and explore the history of the Old Quarter.  The fortified wall surrounds the city and protects the cobbled streets and well-maintained wooded homes in Hondarribia.

9. Catch a Wave in Mundaka

Hang ten in this beach town where you’ll find tons of bars, restaurants and Basque-style houses surrounding the port. Thanks to unique oceanic conditions, Mundaka is known as a “surfer’s paradise” where surfers can ride the longest left hand waves in the world. Even if you don’t surf, plan a visit to Mundaka.  

10. Sleep in a Vineyard in El Ciego

At the Frank Gehry designed hotel, the luxurious Hotel Marqués de Riscal , you can sleep among the vines as you indulge in wine tasting, outstanding cuisine and vino therapy (spa treatments with wine).

The region’s tourism site has extensive information about visiting Basque Country .  

©Justin Folkes/Lonely Planet

San Sebastián

Framed by golden beaches and lush hillsides, San Sebastián has undeniable allure, from its venerable dining scene to its grand architecture and packed cultural calendar.

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Attractions

Must-see attractions.

Playa de la Concha

Fulfilling almost every idea of how a perfect city beach should be formed, Playa de la Concha (and its westerly extension, Playa de Ondarreta) is easily…

Parte Vieja

Fear for your life as huge sharks bear down behind glass panes, or gaze at otherworldly jellyfish. The highlights of a visit to the city's excellent…

Playa de la Zurriola

Stretching 800m in front of Gros, from the Kursaal to Monte Ulía, 'Zurri', as it's known locally, has some excellent waves that draw surfers from near and…

Designed by Rafael Moneo and opened in 1999, the Kursaal is one of the city's most striking buildings. Consisting of two cubes made of translucent glass…

San Telmo Museoa

One of the best museums in the Basque Country, the San Telmo Museoa has a thought-provoking collection that explores Basque history and culture in all its…

Parque de Cristina Enea

Created by the Duke of Mandas in honour of his wife, the Parque de Cristina Enea is a favourite escape for locals. This formal park, the most attractive…

Sun-drenched cultural space Tabakalera occupies a beautifully reconfigured tobacco factory dating from 1913. It's a hub for the arts and design, as well…

Peine del Viento

A symbol of the city, the Peine del Viento (Wind Comb) sculpture, which lies at the far western end of the Bahía de la Concha, below Monte Igueldo, is the…

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In the Basque Region of Spain: Art, Culture and a Puppy That Blooms

Does a culture-centric family trip have to be boring for the kids? Our writer finds the perfect balance of contemporary art, scary medieval weapons, Gothic cloisters and wide-open space.

Tabakalera is a sprawling, multipurpose art space inside a former cigarette factory in San Sebastián. Credit... Emilio Parra Doiztua for The New York Times

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By Andrew Ferren

• March 27, 2023

It’s not every beach stroll that leads to a modernist masterpiece, let alone one set in the sea amid crashing waves.

After a bracing walk along the esplanade beside Ondarreta Beach in San Sebastián, Spain, I coaxed my family to keep going until we arrived at the western edge of La Concha Bay. There, anchored into the rocks and bashed by waves, was the 20th-century Spanish sculptor Eduardo Chillida’s “El Peine del Viento” (the Comb of the Wind): three nine-ton, rust-covered sculptures. They resembled monumental claws or talons reaching out, trying to connect — a potent symbol of Basque endurance over the centuries.

It was also a sign to my husband and 11-year-old twins, Freddie and Frida, that we’d be spending the weekend seeking out art in some unusual places.

With its wildly vertiginous and verdant landscape and proud heritage, the Basque region has long been a place I’ve wanted to explore with my family. So in February, we spent three crisp, sunny, culture-focused days driving from San Sebastián to Bilbao with several worthwhile stops in between.

By the second day, my kids didn’t want our adventure to end.

San Sebastián

Driving into town earlier that day, past the grandly ornate buildings lining the final stretch of the Urumea River before it reaches the sea, Freddie declared San Sebastián “pretty cool” when he spied groups of kids carrying surfboards and heading toward the beach as they dodged fur-coat-clad shoppers hurrying along the sidewalks. With its world-renowned culinary scene, film festival and stunning natural setting on a crescent-shaped cove, San Sebastián can tick a lot of boxes for visitors with widely varying tastes. Even in February, the beach was buzzing, though only surfers in wet suits and dogs chasing sticks ventured into the water.

The city’s museums were alive with a similar mix of youthful energy and old-school European cultural appreciation. Tabakalera, a giant multipurpose art space inside a former cigarette factory, features exhibitions, film series and huge open-space lounges — some with table tennis and other amusements. It’s a place where kids can be exposed to accessible culture, but still have room to run around. There is also a vast library, a pizzeria and, on the top floor, a restaurant called LABe run by students at the Basque Culinary Center, so it can be a full-day experience.

On a rainy day, Tabakalera could be a lifesaver for a visiting family. But it was sunny during our visit, and the city’s cathedral, with its vast expanses of jewel-toned stained glass, was especially beautiful. This summer we’ll be making a trip back to San Sebastián — both to swim in that beautiful cove and to see the Lighthouse , a monumental sculpture inside a derelict lighthouse on the city’s picturesque Santa Clara Island. The Spanish artist Cristina Iglesias dug up the floor of the structure and recreated in bronze the geological features of the rock beneath it. Reached by boat, it’s only open from June through late September.

Unexpectedly, the San Telmo Museum, which we assumed would be a display of regional pride, turned out to be a highlight of our trip and, like the city itself, had something for everyone. Though one enters through a small, minimalist glass-and-concrete pavilion, the museum is built around a staggeringly beautiful Gothic monastery cloister with elaborately carved stone arches. Opening a side door to the dark and moody chapel, I was blown away to discover vast murals by one of my favorite Spanish artists, José Maria Sert, whose best-known works were sometimes painted on gold or silver leaf, and are more typically encountered in glamorous settings like Rockefeller Center or the palatial homes of wealthy clients rather than somber monastery chapels.

Around the corner were shimmering suits of armor, swords, maces and other weapons, which Frida — currently enamored of all things medieval — explained to us in all their lethal goriness.

Freddie’s most frequent question upon entering a museum is: “Do they have any cars?” Indeed, this museum did — groovy 1970s ones (along with scooters and bicycles). The vehicles highlighted the Basque region’s role in modernizing Spanish society from the 1960s to the ’80s, during the final years of the Franco dictatorship and the beginning of the country’s democracy. Going further back in time, a display of more than a dozen examples of the bizarrely elaborate 17th-century linen headwear traditionally worn by married and widowed women had Frida perplexed enough to declare (and not for the first time) that she would never marry.

At the opposite pole of this potpourri of regional art is Chillida Leku, a space dedicated to the oeuvre of just one artist, Eduardo Chillida, whose monumental sculptural works — including variations of “El Peine del Viento,” which we saw on the beach the day before — are in (or often in front of) major art museums around the world. In the 1980s, the artist purchased the property — which ‌is near the ‌town of Hernani on the outskirts of San Sebastián and includes a 16th-century farmhouse — to create a compendium of his works installed both indoors and outside for pastoral contemplation. And even with two kids running around the grass trying to scare each other by jumping out from behind the artist’s massive yet elementally simple steel or stone or concrete sculptures, Chillida Leku (leku means “place” in Basque) provided delicious hours of just that. I was particularly struck by the way some of the largest sculptures branched out at the top and seemed to reach for one another but never touch, like many of the ancient trees nearby.

Inside the beautifully restored stone and wood farmhouse, a gallery attendant named Anabel got us all talking about the sculptures and provided a wealth of fascinating details about the artist, such as the fact that he trained for years with the local blacksmith — which explains why some of his early works incorporate elements of farm tools.

Driving west

The seaside hamlet of Getaria, about 30 minutes west of San Sebastián, may be tiny, but it gave the world two titans who changed history in one fashion or another. The first was Juan Sebastiáno Elcano, the Spanish explorer who completed the first circumnavigation of the globe in 1522 after Ferdinand Magellan was killed midvoyage in what is now the Philippines. He made it back to Spain after some 1,200 days at sea, returning with just one ship and only 19 men (five ships and some 265 crewmen departed Spain in 1519). He is a celebrated hero in his homeland, but is largely unknown outside Spain, where credit for the voyage goes almost entirely to Magellan.

In contrast, Getaria’s other native son has a name that is known far and wide and has become a global brand. Cristóbal Balenciaga — the couturier whom Christian Dior, Coco Chanel and other designers considered, in Dior’s words, “the master of us all” — was born here to a local fisherman and a seamstress in 1895. By his teens, he had clients among the Spanish nobility and eventually the royal family. He moved to Paris during the Spanish Civil War, where his talent and list of clients became legendary.

To great fanfare, the Cristóbal Balenciaga Museum opened in Getaria (in the former palace of his most ardent early client) in 2011, bringing the rarefied world of haute couture to this quaint village. Many of the stunning dresses on display were donated by the likes of Princess Grace of Monaco; the American philanthropist Rachel Mellon, known as Bunny; Balenciaga’s friend and protégé, Hubert de Givenchy; and other beau monde figures. It’s a fun romp for kids through the dimly lit galleries of fanciful clothing from a different age. This year’s exhibition, “Balenciaga Character,” focuses on the essence of his designs and what made them so innovative and beautiful that other designers felt almost obligated to follow his lead for decades.

How many UNESCO World Heritage sites allow you to drive your car on them? Heading farther west from Getaria, we bypassed downtown Bilbao and went straight to Las Arenas, the posh seaside enclave where the Nervión River meets the Bay of Biscay. Our goal was to see (and use) the Vizcaya Bridge, a pioneering type of suspension bridge built in 1893 and recognized by UNESCO in 2006. It was designed by Alberto de Palacio y Elissagüe (who also designed the iconic Atocha rail station in Madrid). The brief was to create a link between the towns of Guecho and Portugalete on opposite sides of the river without impeding the shipping traffic that was crucial to Bilbao’s booming steel industry. Palacio’s novel design was not a roadway but a suspended gondola that today shuttles about eight cars and a fair number of pedestrians across the river in one minute — as thrilling for my husband and me as it was for the kids. The deck supporting the gondola is more than 150 feet above the water, so even today’s tankers, aircraft carriers and a few airplanes have managed to get under it.

Back when it opened, there were set fares for pigs, cattle and funerals — today it’s just cars, scooters, bikes and pedestrians (1 euro, or a little over a $1, round-trip for pedestrians). As we approached the soaring tower on the Portugalete side of the river, Freddie squeezed my hand and said, “This is the best day ever” — words he also uttered amid the giant redwoods of the Sequoia National Park in California.

Ever since the Frank Gehry-designed Guggenheim Bilbao opened in 1997, the city has occupied an important perch on the European cultural travel circuit. Many kids will go bonkers over the giant floral puppy, a large petunia-based sculpture by Jeff Koons that stands in front of the museum. If you’re visiting in the summer, you’ll want to know about the nearby “water park,” a fountain with variable jets of water spouting from the ground, where children and adults can cool off in the midday heat.

Whatever exhibitions are on view (until May 28, there’s a beautiful Joan Miró painting exhibition focused on the artist’s early years in Paris), a ride up the glass elevators in Gehry’s torquey, bendy central lobby is enough to satisfy most kids. Do not miss the long gallery of monumental spiral sculptures by Richard Serra; exploring the mazelike spaces created by the circular steel walls is, I’ve found, a home run for children.

By the time we got to Bilbao’s maritime museum, Itsasmuseum , we were pretty exhausted, and I told the ticket seller we’d be in and out in 30 minutes. In the end, the guards had to move us out at closing time as we were so engaged with the displays of antique model ships and paintings of historic shipwrecks. There are also more modern exhibitions about surf culture and the role of the river and the sea in Bilbao’s development, as well as what’s being done in the city to adapt to global warming and preserve the ecosystem that’s been its lifeblood. In warmer weather, a small dry dock in front of the museum allows visitors to explore various types of vessels in use on the city’s waterways.

Like San Sebastián, Bilbao has its own vast multipurpose cultural center in the Azkuna Zentroa Alhóndiga , a former wine and olive oil warehouse that sat empty for 30 years until the architect Philippe Starck reimagined it as a library, exhibition space and gym, where there are two indoor pools on the roof that anyone can visit for a few euros per day.

And splashing around in pools designed by Mr. Starck — one of which has a glass floor that looks down on the galleries below — counts as a cultural activity, no matter your age.

Follow New York Times Travel on Instagram , Twitter and Facebook . And sign up for our weekly Travel Dispatch newsletter to receive expert tips on traveling smarter and inspiration for your next vacation. Dreaming up a future getaway or just armchair traveling? Check out our 52 Places to Go in 2023 .

All Together Now: Family Travel

Families are hitting the road again. we have tips and ideas..

A C ulture- C entric T rip:  In Spain’s Basque region, a father tried to kindle a love of art in his children. By the second day, they didn’t want the adventure to end .

Dazzle the Grandkids in Florida:  To fend off the b-word (boredom) in Palm Beach County, try these tips for tweens and teens .

Pigeon Point Light Station:  In California, three families shared a hostel converted from what was once Coast Guard housing  for a weekend of seaside frolics.

Multigenerational Trip:  Thinking about getting the whole extended family together for a vacation to make up for lost time? Here are nine tips .

Sharing a Love for Africa:  Fifty years after her own safari, a grandmother took her adult granddaughter on a trip to Kenya, hoping to pass along her passion .

Adult Resorts Open Up:  A pandemic surge in family travel has pushed hotels from Mexico to the Poconos to get makeovers to meet the demand .

How Kids See the World:  To find out how children experience travel differently, we gave families disposable cameras and asked them to share their pictures .

Vacationing in a Corner of the U.S.S.R :  The country of Georgia seemed to have it all: skiing, hot springs, history and huge dumplings. But would the whole family agree?

12 Ways to Save:  The price of a family vacation is rising. Here’s how to keep costs under control .

How Much Did You Spend on Vacation?:  We took a close look at how much family trips cost, and how people chose to spend their money .

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‘In the US they think we’re communists!’ The 70,000 workers showing the world another way to earn a living

The Basque Country’s Mondragón Corporation is the globe’s largest industrial co-operative, with workers paying for the right to share in its profits – and its losses. In return for giving more to their employer, they expect more back

W hen Marisa Fernández lost her husband to cancer a few years ago, her employers at the Eroski hypermarket went, she says, “above and beyond to help me through the dark days afterwards, rejigging my timetable and giving me time off when I couldn’t face coming in.”

She had a chance to return the favour recently when the store, in Arrasate-Mondragón in Spain’s Basque Country, was undergoing renovations. Fernández, 58, who started on the cashier desk 34 years ago, and now manages the store’s non-food section, volunteered to work extra shifts over the weekend along with her colleagues to ensure everything was ready for Monday morning. “It’s not just me. Everyone is ready to go the extra mile,” she says.

Such harmonious employer-worker relations are the stuff of corporate dreams, and they are no accident here: the Eroski retail chain is part of Mondragón Corporation, the largest industrial co-op in the world. As a fully signed-up member, Fernández co-owns part of the supermarket chain that also employs her. “It feels like mine,” she says. “We work hard, but it’s a totally different feeling from working for someone else.”

That sentiment is echoed by Mondragón’s 70,000 other workers. Made up of 81 autonomous co-operatives, the corporation has grown since its creation in 1956 to become a leading force in the Basque economy. Eroski is one of its most conspicuous manifestations, with 1,645 outlets across Spain. In addition to food, the chain has profitable sidelines in white goods, electronics, insurance and holiday bookings.

More than its economic success, though, Mondragón has become a beacon for the co-operative model, as a more humane and egalitarian way of doing business that puts “people over capital”. Every worker has a stake in the company’s fortunes and a say in how it is run, and receives a share of the profits. But the goal is more about creating “rich societies, not rich people”. That means looking after workers during not only the good times but the tough times, too.

The lowest point for Maite Aguirrebeitia, for example, came back in 2013, when, after 20 years’ service, the Mondragón co-operative that she and her husband were affiliated to, Fagor Electrodomésticos, filed for bankruptcy. Demand for its ovens and household appliances had plummeted after the 2008 financial crisis and despite help from a Mondragón “solidarity fund”, it never recovered.

“I felt this overwhelming sense of pain and grief at the time, as if someone close to me had died,” the 56-year-old communications specialist recalls. “Plus we had two kids and bills to pay and so on. The mental stress of it all was huge.”

Rather than thank the redundant workers for their service and wish them on their way, Mondragón committed to find alternative employment for as many of Fagor’s 1,900 or so workers as it could. After temporary stints in five Mondragón co-operatives in 2022, Aguirrebeitia found a permanent placement with Mondragon Assembly, a manufacturer of equipment for process automation.

Although it has meant a shift in career – she now works part-time in human resources, and part-time as a receptionist – the security of having a fixed job is a “huge relief”, she says. “I always felt confident that somehow I’d be looked after. I talked to other people who were out of work at the time and they had none of that. They were out on the street, totally alone. If I’d had to compete in the open job market against all the youngsters coming out of university, I’m not sure I’d have ever found another job.”

Mondragón’s human-centric approach originated far from any business management school. Its roots lie in a socially engaged form of Catholicism that gained ground in the 1940s, during the early years of the Francoist regime. Its initial champion was a Basque-born cleric named José María Arizmendiarrieta, who, in 1941, arrived in the small town of Arrasate-Mondragón, about 30 miles (50km) south-east of Bilbao.

Taking it as his pastoral mission to revitalise the local economy, the diocesan priest set up a technical school for young men. A few years later, he arranged for some of them to take distance-learning degrees in industrial engineering. “After graduating, they all found jobs in conventional companies in the town, but they felt stifled … they wanted more of a say over their destiny, but their employers thought otherwise,” explains Ander Etxeberria, head of Mondragón’s outreach programme.

With Arizmendiarrieta’s encouragement, five of these first 11 graduates decided in 1955 to set up the now defunct Fagor Electrodomésticos. Seeking a model that reflected their Christian socialist philosophy, they turned to the Rochdale Pioneers , a group of tradespeople from the Lancashire town who, more than a century before, had established the world’s first co-operative. That venture grew to become today’s Co-operative Group, home to the UK’s fifth biggest food retailer and its largest provider of funeral services.

Mondragón’s founders adopted wholesale many of the Pioneers’ core tenets. In their modern-day headquarters, located in a renovated 14th-century tower with a spectacular mountain backdrop, Etxeberria counts off the group’s 10 “basic principles”. The list ranges from the sovereignty of labour and democratic organisation (one member, one vote), to wage solidarity and “social transformation” – which includes reinvesting surpluses to create new jobs, supporting local charities and community development projects, and strengthening the Basque Country’s Euskara language. Top of the list is voluntary and open membership – namely, the opportunity for everyone to have a personal stake in the enterprise where they work. As an early version of the principles reads: “The first form of elemental justice that we need to practise is to consider each other as free human beings.”

These values hold true into the present, Etxeberria explains. The salary differential between the highest and lowest paid workers in Mondragón, for example, remains about six to one; for the largest 500 listed companies in the US, the gap is closer to 272 to one. At the year end, members of Mondragón’s co-operatives also decide collectively on whether they should pay themselves bonuses and, if so, how much. This profit-sharing comes in addition to a base pay rate that, on average, is 40% above Spain’s minimum wage.

Despite its social responsibility credentials, Mondragón remains a competitive business. When Etxeberria presses “play” on an introductory video, the screen shows not pictures of happy workers doing yoga but gleaming industrial facilities and straight-faced technicians in lab coats. Overlaying these images are facts and figures that would have mainstream financiers salivating: €10.6bn (£9.1bn) in annual revenues; a dozen research and development facilities; a global roster of blue-chip clients; and a diversified sector spread – industry, retail, finance and education.

The same no-nonsense, professional vibe is on show at Fagor Arrasate, a Mondragón affiliate located on one of the many industrial estates that ring Arrasate-Mondragón, a vibrant town of cafe-strewn streets and busy bars. A specialist in metal presses and stamping systems, Fagor Arrasate boasts several hangar-sized workshops full of robotic machinery and giant components ready for export. “Some of the installations we make for customers can be three to four storeys high, so these are massive, multimillion-euro investments,” enthuses Edorta Mendieta, the venture’s marketing manager.

Pinned to a cork noticeboard beside a busy production line are photos of a recent charity run, a printout of donations to local causes (including €60,000 for a nearby organic food association), and a poster about a forthcoming “women in science” event. In the centre of the board, an A4 sheet of closely printed text gives notice of the co-operative’s general assembly, where next year’s strategy plan will be put to an all-member vote.

Mondragón’s collective spirit also offers an edge with innovation. In a process that the movement refers to as “inter-cooperation”, co-operatives within the group frequently swap ideas between themselves and engage in joint research.

Over the years, many of the best innovations have come from alliances with Mondragón’s homegrown university. Located on a leafy campus in Arrasate-Mondragón, the university was set up with a strong practical bent to both its teaching and its research. So much so, in fact, that the European Commission recently selected it to co-lead a major “dual training” programme aimed at blending academia with business to tackle global challenges such as the climate crisis.

Mondragón’s approach has proved itself profitable and resilient, so could it become a realistic alternative to the modern corporation?

It’s a moot point. Despite their worker-first philosophy, the movement’s leaders are reluctant to denounce the wealth-maximising nature of modern market capitalism. The reason is as simple as it is awkward: Mondragón must actively participate in that same capitalist system for its survival.

This tactic of being “in, but not of” the world of mainstream business has seen the Basque-based movement face charges of double standards. In particular, critics highlight its outsourcing of some of its production to low-wage countries with weaker labour standards, such as China and Mexico. Mondragón argues that it has checks and balances in place to ensure that its foreign business partners uphold workers’ rights, and that keeping costs low is part and parcel of staying competitive. “For us, workers will always come before capital. But capital is still important because without it we cannot fulfil our mission of social transformation,” says Javier Marcos, Mondragón’s director of communications.

Radical as that mission is, its focus is and always has been primarily on el territorio (the local Basque region); less about rewriting the global economic order and more about improving co-op members’ lives. That said, if others want to copy the Mondragón model, then its doors are always open, insists Etxeberria. In the past month alone, he has hosted large groups of policymakers and business students from the Philippines, Brazil and the US. “They come to see if our approach works in practice,” he says. “They all go back pleasantly surprised, I think.”

Young people, in particular, are attracted to the notion of business and entrepreneurship going beyond just the pursuit of profit, but they “don’t know the co-operative possibility exists,” says Ana Aguirre, a graduate of Mondragón University. The 33-year-old now co-runs Tazebaez , a worker-owned consultancy and education provider that she and eight fellow students created during their bachelor’s degree. For the few who have heard of co-operativism, she adds, most relegate it in the folksy, do-gooder box. “The problem is that it’s portrayed as something to do with charity or [philanthropic] foundations, rather than as a credible business model.”

Pursuing a co-operative model is far from plain sailing, however. Numerous hurdles exist. For one, membership does not come cheap. To join a co-operative, workers typically put up a one-off payment of about €17,000 each. Plus, just as they are entitled to a share of any profits, so, too, are they liable for any losses.

Commercial pressures can also prove acute, as Fagor Electrodomésticos’s troubled history shows. The fact that all major investment decisions have to be put to the vote can also make Mondragón’s co-operatives less agile than their conventional competitors. And finding financing can be problematic as the private capital markets are effectively closed to them, admits Fagor Arrasate’s Mendieta: “We can’t incorporate external capital into the co-operative’s share capital because we are governed by the principle of ‘one person, one vote’, which no capitalist investor would accept.”

In some parts of the world, Mondragón’s approach just looks downright weird. No one bats an eyelid at the co-operative model in countries such as Germany, “but with these ideas in Texas or Kansas, you’re basically a communist,” says Mendieta, only half jokingly.

Across Europe, at least, the co-operative model is widespread. In Norway, for instance, co-ops have a strong heritage in the social housing sector . Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region boasts a long tradition of industrial co-operatives similar to that of the Basque Country. And, as well as the Co-operative Group, the UK ’s almost 7,000 co-operatives include the mighty John Lewis Partnership, which has a turnover of nearly £10bn. In total, the EU hosts about 250,000 co-operatives, providing 5.4m jobs .

Increasingly, the movement’s footprint is also being seen in company law. Germany has long required corporate boards to have worker representatives , for instance. Similarly, Spanish law allows unemployed people to lump together their unemployment benefit to set up small businesses – known as Sociedades Laborales – as long as they are majority owned by their employees. The rise in mainstream corporations now talking the language of employee autonomy, horizontal management, dignified wages and similar themes suggests co-operativism is leaving its mark on business company practices if not – yet – on capitalist ownership

Back in Mondragón’s fort-like headquarters, Etxeberria is quietly confident about the movement’s prospects. Co-operativism, he says, is a little like zirimiri – the Eusakara word for “drizzle”. “It’s the same ideas that keep falling; they’ll settle eventually.”

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Spain's Basque Country Regional Vote Yields Likely Repeat of Incumbent Coalition

Spain's Basque Country Regional Vote Yields Likely Repeat of Incumbent Coalition

Left-wing separatist EH Bildu party candidate for Basque premier Pello Otxandiano and party president Arnaldo Otegi celebrate following Basque Country regional elections, in Bilbao, Spain, April 21, 2024. EH Bildu won 27 seats of the 75 seat parliament. REUTERS/Vincent West

By Ana Cantero

MADRID (Reuters) - The coalition ruling Spain's Basque Country looked set to stay in power as the conservative nationalists tied with their left-wing separatist rivals in Sunday's regional election but will likely keep the support of the third-placed Socialists.

The Basque Nationalist Party (PNV) and EH Bildu ("Basque Country Unite") both earned 27 seats, falling well short of the 38 needed for a majority in the regional parliament. But the PNV garnered nearly 30,000 more votes than Bildu, which gained six seats from the previous election in 2020.

"The diversity of our people has been reflected today in the ballot box and that reality must be respected," the PNV's main candidate, Imanol Pradales, told ecstatic supporters after the count.

The Socialist Party, which has been the PNV's junior coalition partner since 2016, emerged as kingmaker with 12 seats.

The vote was seen as key for its potential national implications, as Spain's shaky government led by Socialist Prime Minister Pedro Sanchez needs the support of both Basque parties - as well as Catalan separatists - in a highly fragmented parliament.

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Critics have repeatedly denounced Sanchez's agreements with separatist parties. During the Basque campaign, the Socialists distanced themselves from Bildu, signaling they were more inclined to support the PNV.

Founded in 2012 as a coalition of left-wing parties, Bildu has faced criticism for its alleged proximity to the now-defunct armed group ETA. Bildu has publicly rejected violence but its candidate Pello Otxandiano avoided condemning the group.

Left-wing party Sumar, which is part of the national government coalition, entered the Basque parliament for the first time with one seat. The conservative People's Party obtained seven seats and far-right Vox got one.

The Basque Country has one of the highest regional GDPs per capita in Europe. Since ETA announced its total dissolution in 2018, there have been no secession attempts.

(Reporting by Ana Cantero; Additional reporting by David Latona; Editing by Diane Craft)

Copyright 2024 Thomson Reuters .

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