tajikistan travel from uk

The Complete Tajikistan Travel Guide – 18 useful things to know to visit Tajikistan in 2024

I have compiled this guide for you for travel in Tajikistan in 2024 and it’s packed with so much relevant and useful information. If you’ve been wondering about this interesting country and are drawn to visit Tajikistan, this Tajikistan travel guide will fully equip you with everything you need to know.

A country in which the famous Silk Road and Pamir Highway pass through, Tajikistan ‘s tourist economy is growing year on year. Not only is Tajikistan home to the stunning Fann mountains and crystal clear lakes, the friendly Tajik people, culture and vast history will draw you in and convince you to book a trip to Tajikistan. 

The Republic of Tajikistan, once part of the Soviet Union from 1929 until 1991, has a long and interesting history. Inhabited since 4000 BC, it is the smallest country in Central Asia .

In 1991, after Tajikistan gained independence from Soviet rule, a civil war broke out. This time of political instability caused Tajikistan to suffer as a whole and caused extreme poverty to make its way across the nation. Despite Tajikistan being one of the poorest former Soviet countries, this vast and striking landscape has a wealth of riches to offer you.

Placed between China and Afghanistan, Tajikistan offers an impressive amount of wild, rugged and mountainous scenery. With a staggering 93% of the land claimed by mountains, the Pamir mountain range – one of the highest in the world, attracts adventurous travellers and visitors from all over the globe.

The world-famous Pamir Highway , built when the country was under Soviet rule passes through some of the most stark and remote scenes you might ever encounter. If you are looking for the adventure of a lifetime, I urge you to visit Tajikistan!

Tip: See my  Tajikistan Travel Page  for a complete overview of all my travel guides and blog posts about Tajikistan!

Discover the Highlights of Tajikistan: a 16-day Adventure Tour with an unforgettable road trip on the  Pamir Highway , experiencing the culture in the  Jisue and Wakhan Valleys ,  hiking to various alpine lakes  and a 3-day trek in the stunning  Fann Mountains !

Disclaimer: This posts might contain affiliate links, meaning that if you make a purchase through these links, I may earn an affiliate commission. Thank you for helping to support this website!

TABLE OF CONTENTS

1. Visiting Tajikistan in 2024 – Tajikistan entry requirements

1.1 do i need a visa to travel to tajikistan.

Starting from 1 January 2022, citizens of the European Union, USA, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, the United Arab Emirates, Israel, and many more countries can  travel to Tajikistan visa-free for a period of 30 days . This visa-free policy is valid at airports and land borders. However… there are still restrictions with this visa-free policy, which I explain further below.

Citizens of 121 countries, including India and Singapore, have been granted the right to receive an  e-visa  for 60 days within a period of 90 days from the entry date you fill in, which means you don’t have to enter on the first day of entry but within 90 days before your 60 days are up.

It costs US$30 for a single or double entry and you can pay by debit or credit card. Make sure to have a paper-version of the e-visa as you’ll need a stamp on both your passport and e-visa to avoid problems upon exiting the country.

If you are not on the list of nationalities who are not required to get a visa or can apply for an e-visa, you must then contact the embassy or consulate in person and supply a range of documents. You may be required to attend an interview before being granted your visa.

No matter what type of visa you’re eligible for, upon arrival you’ll have to fill out a migration card . You need to keep this one on you until you’re exiting the country.

Some important things to consider, especially when traveling visa-free:

If you want to visit the Pamir Highway and the GBAO (Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region) located in the east of Tajikistan, the area where the Wakhan Valley and Pamir Highway are, you need to get a GBAO permit. You can apply for this permit on arrival at the OVIR office in Dushanbe , Khujand , Khorog and Murghab.

However… if you’re planning to arrive in Tajikistan via the Pamir Highway in Kyrgyzstan , you should already have the GBAO permit on you. I’ve also heard that the border guards at the land border might give you a hard time or even deny you entry without an (e-)visa, even if you’re eligible for visa-free entry .

If you’re planning to travel along the Pamir Highway, the easiest and best option – for now – would be to apply for an e-visa, even if you’re eligible for a visa-free arrival ( all countries on the 30-day free-visa list are also eligible for an e-visa ). The reason for this is to avoid any issues at the land border and you can apply for the GBAO at the same time. You just tick the checkbox on your visa application and pay an extra $20. Don’t forget to print out the visa and permit!

It’s also important to know that if you’re entering Tajikistan visa-free and you’re planning on staying longer than 10 days in the country, you need to register at the OVIR office within 10 days. Registrations costs around 210 TJS (around $20). If you want to skip a visit to the office, you can ask your hostel/hotel/guesthouse to do the registration for you for 250 – 300 TJS (around $22 – $27).

Sometimes e-visa get denied or “stuck” in the system. The best option is then to use the services of a visa agent. I recommend iVisa . They ask for an additional $20 fee but it might save you time and headaches.

☛ I always try to keep my guides as much updated as possible so if you recently traveled to Tajikistan and have any updates or information, please let us know in the comments below!

1.2 Can I extend my Tajikistan visa?

You can’t extend a Tajikistan visa. To stay longer than the 60 days included, you must leave the country and re-apply for a new Tajikistan visa. However, there is no limit to the amount of times you can exit and re-enter Tajikistan on visa runs, taking into account you re-apply every time for a new visa.

1.3 What happens if I overstay my Tajikistan Visa?

It would be a wise choice to keep in mind to leave Tajikistan the exact day that your visa ends as overstaying could prove to be very tricky. You will not be permitted to leave the country if your visa has expired, you may be required to attend court, and pay a hefty fine along with asking for assistance from your home embassy. It’s just not worth the hassle, so don’t do it!

1.4 Tajikistan vaccination requirements

There are no compulsory vaccination requirements for visiting Tajikistan. Some are recommended if you plan on travelling to Tajikistan including –  Hepatitis A & B, Poliomyelitis, Tetanus, Typhoid and Diphtheria. There is no yellow fever vaccination certificate required for visiting Tajikistan.

2. When is the best time to visit Tajikistan?

If you’re not such a big fan of the summer heat, September and October are great months to visit Tajikistan. The hiking trails in the mountains are still accessible, the local markets are overflowing with fresh fruit and vegetables and the leaves are just starting to turn for the start of Autumn.

The complete guide to the Fann Mountains in Tajikistan

If the heat doesn’t bother you, anytime between June and September can be good. Not only is the Pamir Highway completely snow-free during this period so that you can fully appreciate the spectacular beauty when trekking in the high mountains, it’s also easier to find shared transport for travelling the Pamir Highway during these busier summer months.

2.1 What is the hottest month in Tajikistan?

Tajikistan has on average around 300 sunshine-filled days a year but the hottest time of year is between June and September with temperatures reaching 40ºC in the plains – Khujand, Khatlon and Dushanbe, Tajikistan. The climate can change dramatically depending on the elevation and Tajikistan is also the wettest of all the Central Asian republics.

2.2 Should I visit Tajikistan in winter?

If you choose to travel to Tajikistan in winter, the plains are where you’ll find the best weather. If you like freezing temperatures then you’ll not be disappointed, especially if you decide to tour between November and February. Temperatures can get as low as -30°C!

If you’re hoping for some deep snow skiing adventures then you might also considering visiting neighbour Kyrgyzstan or Kazakhstan . Various mountain passes also close during the winter months so it’s not the best time to travel along the Pamir Highway…

Everything you need to know about Skiing in Kyrgyzstan

3. Tajikistan Travel Insurance

Travel insurance isn’t mandatory for visiting Tajikistan, however, I would strongly advise you to get coverage if you plan on travelling in Tajikistan. You just don’t know when you may need it and for peace of mind, it’s definitely worth it! Not only is Tajikistan an adventurous destination, getting cover for activities and traveling at high altitudes would be a wise decision.

What are the 3 best budget-friendly travel insurance companies

If you don’t have travel insurance yet, I highly recommend  HeyMondo  as it covers both medical costs, activities at high altitudes and theft.

Need Travel Insurance for Central Asia? I use and highly recommend HeyMondo Travel Insurance . As a reader of Journal of Nomads, you get a 5% discount of your insurance plan!

4. How many tourists visit Tajikistan?

In 2020, The New York Times featured Tajikistan in an article about the best places to visit that year and the number of tourists had been growing each year, then the pandemic hit and forced the country to close its borders to international visitors.

Like so many countries, Tajikistan’s economy is dependent on tourists and visitors spending money. As the country slowly begins to rebuild its tourist economy, it’s now more important than ever to shed light and advertise this truly fascinating and epic country.

5. What is the best way to get to Tajikistan?

You can enter Tajikistan via air or overland from the bordering countries of Uzbekistan , Kyrgyzstan , Afghanistan and China.

5.1 Where do you fly into Tajikistan?

Many international flights connect Dushanbe, the capital of Tajikistan, with Europe and the rest of the world. The airport in Khujand also hosts international flights.

Some people however choose to fly into airports in Kyrgyzstan and travel to Tajikistan from here, especially if you intend to travel the Pamir Highway because flights to Kyrgyzstan can be more available and less expensive.

5.2 How to travel to Tajikistan by road

If you plan on travelling to Tajikistan by road it depends on where you’re coming from and what border crossings are open at the time of travel. Tajikistan shares a border with Uzbekistan , Afghanistan, Kyrgyzstan and China.

At the moment, the border crossings with Uzbekistan are open to foreign travellers but most land border crossings between Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan, China and Afghanistan remain closed to foreign travellers. Check on the site of Caravanistan for current information on border crossings.

The Kyzylart border between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan along the Pamir has reopened since late July 2023, but it might still be complicated to pass. You also need a GBAO permit to enter Tajikistan via this border.

6. How to get around in Tajikistan/Is it easy to travel around Tajikistan?

It can be quite tricky travelling around Tajikistan, especially if you plan on visiting sites outside of the major cities. This is largely because the country does not have a regional public transport system, which means that intercity bus or train connections are basically non-existent.

Let me tell you more about the options that are available for you to see more of this wild and mountainous country and experience the adventure of a lifetime.

6.1 Getting around Tajikistan by bus

In Dushanbe, as well as some of the larger cities, public buses are plentiful. Marshrutkas (minibuses) will pick you up along particular routes for a very small charge.

However, do not expect to arrive at your chosen destination quickly. These minibuses will stop anywhere to pick up and drop off passengers.

6.2 Getting around by shared taxi

A shared taxi is a taxi that you share with usually 4 to 5 other passengers. It doesn’t have a fixed schedule but leaves once the taxi is full. It’s a good plan to have an idea of how much you should pay for a ride beforehand so confirm the price with the driver and tell him clearly that you want to share the taxi with other passengers.

Due to Tajikistan’s limited public transport network, it’s pretty difficult to travel outside any of the major cities unless you use a shared taxi of course. They make for a great option if you want to travel further than the city limits.

It’s the most common method of transport if you plan on covering some distance. In order to be as cost efficient as they can, people aim to fill their empty seats to help balance out the huge rise in costs of petrol.

Travelling within a city is really easy in a shared taxi too. Many drivers use their phone as a meter that starts at around 10 Somoni making short distances very affordable and roughly the same price as taking a bus.

5 top things to do at Iskanderkul Lake

6.3 Getting around by train

The north and south of Tajikistan each have their own train networks that are not directly connected, making overland train travel in Tajikistan very slow, limited and dependent on where you hope to travel to.

Train travel is only an option to travel from Khujand to Uzbekistan en from Dushanbe to Kulob, Bokhtar (formally Qurghonteppa) and the Afghanistan border.

6.4   Hitchhiking in Tajikistan

It’s very common for local people to hitchhike daily in Tajikistan so hitchhiking as a foreigner is definitely doable and worth it. It’s viewed as a valid way of travelling throughout the country because not everyone owns a vehicle and public transport is pretty non-existent. Keep in mind that most drivers will ask for a small fee to travel with them.

6.5 Driving in Tajikistan

Roads in Tajikistan are not smooth going and tend to be in pretty poor condition. With the high price of petrol and breakdown or recovery companies being non-existent in Tajikistan, there are a few solid reasons not to drive through Tajikistan.

However, if you dream of driving through epic landscapes, chasing that feeling of adrenaline and looking for adventure, then driving in Tajikistan could be for you! If you choose to rent a 4×4 car then make sure to book ahead, especially in the summer months.

Alternatively, if you choose to drive your own car in Tajikistan it’s important to be aware of the traffic police. It can be a common occurrence for Tajik police to randomly stop passing cars and demand a small bribe.

Although the Pamir Highway is open all year round, if you’re hoping to travel in winter be aware that many of the routes can be blocked by snow. During the spring, there is the risk of roadblocks from rockslides and also mudslides, so be prepared for anything making sure that you have plenty of supplies and a plan in an emergency.

A third option for travelling in Tajikistan is to rent a car with a driver. There is normally a fixed price for this plus extra per each kilometer travelled but make sure the vehicle is 4WD especially if you hope to head up into the mountains.

7. Is Tajikistan safe to visit?

Tajikistan in general, can be considered a safe country to visit with low rates of crime (a lot lot lower than f.eg. the USA!!). It’s considered a dangerous country to visit at it’s unknown (people tend to be afraid of the unknown…) and its neighboring country Afghanistan doesn’t have the best reputation. A country ending with -stan gets quickly associated with danger.

And yes, it’s true that there was a terrorist attack in 2018 where 8 cyclists were struck by a vehicle. Just so you know, this is not something that happens on a daily, or even yearly basis. My home country Belgium, considered to be super safe, has known more violent attacks on a bigger scale than this (remember the airport bombings in 2016?).

I’m not downplaying anything but I can honestly tell you that you’re way way way more at risk by walking in a big European or American city at night than when you’re traveling around Tajikistan.

You only need to be aware at the border regions of the country. Last year, Tajikistan got into a violent dispute with Kyrgyzstan and the borders remained shut for a long while. Today, the situation has been stabilized but you should check the current situation in advance if you’re planning to cross any land border.

The only real dangers in Tajikistan are food poisoning and altitude sickness. It’s almost inevitble that you’ll get sick at some point as our foreign stomachs just can’t handle the water there (take plenty of Immodium tablets with you…). Never drink tap water and always use a filter (I always use a Lifestraw bottle or steripen ) to drink water that doesn’t come from a plastic bottle you bought in a shop!

As for the altitude sickness, Tajikistan is over 90% mountains, often reaching altitudes above 3000 meters. Take the time to acclimatize and never ascend more than 1000 meters in one day! If you’re worried or prone to altitude sickness, seek medical advice and/or bring Diamox, especially if you’re planning on traveling the Pamir Highway where you’ll easily reach altitudes of +4000 meters.

Another thing to be wary of is corruption, especially if you’re traveling and/or driving without a local guide, and getting overcharged by taxi driver.

Tajikistan solo travel/Is Tajikistan safe to travel alone?

I always traveled with companions to Tajikistan so, although I would say yes, it’s safe to travel alone, I can’t tell you out of experience. Nicole from The Adventures of Nicole traveled many times by herself to Tajikistan and here’s how she experienced solo (female) travel in Tajikistan.

8. Money and currency in Tajikistan

8.1 what kind of money do they use in tajikistan.

The  Tajik Somoni (TJS)  is the official currency used in Tajikistan.

• Banknotes circulating in Tajikistan: 10, 20, 50, 100 and 200 Somoni.
• Coins circulating in Tajikistan: 1, 5, 10, 20, 25, 50 Dirams and 1, 3 and 5 Somoni

I always use the  Xe.com app  to convert and stay up-to-date with the current exchange rates. At this time of writing, the current exchange rates are:

• $1 USD = 11 TJS
• €1 Euro = 12 TJS
• £1 British Pound = 13 TJS

8.2 Which credit cards are accepted in Tajikistan?

Visa and MasterCard are two credit cards that are accepted at certain accessible ATM’s, hotels and restaurants in Dushanbe and larger cities.

However, the majority of Tajikistan works on a cash-only basis and paying with a credit card can be nearly impossible throughout most of the country. Always make sure that you have cash on you and don’t depend on your credit card when travelling to Tajikistan.

8.3 ATMs in Tajikistan

Back in 2016, two of Tajikistan’s banks went bankrupt and since then, withdrawing money from a cash machine can prove to be quite tricky. You will find ATMs in the larger cities but not along the Pamir Highway so make sure that you carry some cash on you if you plan on heading there or further from the cities. There are only a few ATMs outside of Dushanbe and Khujand.

8.4 Exchanging money in Tajikistan

You can exchange money in larger cities such as Dushanbe, Khujand and Khorog but make sure your notes are in good condition as exchanging older, worn notes can sometimes be difficult. Also only exchange your cash at authorised and official currency exchanges. You can also pay with US$ as they’re widely accepted in the country.

8.5 How much money do you need in Tajikistan? Is it cheap to visit Tajikistan?

If you happen to wonder what the cost to visit Tajikistan is, let me tell you a bit more about the money side of things. Although Tajikistan is one of the poorest areas in Central Asia, organised tours in Tajikistan are usually quite costly.

It is possible though to travel independently around Tajikistan for a lot less than tour company prices. It all depends on where you plan on going and how long you want to stay. If the Pamirs are calling to you, you may choose to hire a driver who has his own vehicle.

Services are not cheap in Tajikistan despite it being one of the poorest countries in Central Asia. Petrol isn’t cheap so that’s important to factor in if you plan on hiring a rental car. Meals along the Pamir highway will cost you around $2 each and homestays per night are around $12.

In the capital of Dushanbe, you can find cheaper accommodation in hostel dorm rooms, around $4 a night and the cost of public transport within the city is really dependent on where you want to go. Costs tend to be a lot lower outside of the Pamirs.

If you’re travelling to Tajikistan on a budget then it’s possible to have a daily spend of around $40 including food, accommodation and travel, depending where you’re traveling and what you plan on doing each day.

8.6 Should you tip in Tajikistan?

Tipping is expected in more upmarket restaurants, particularly in the cities; however, check your bill as a 10% service charge may have already been added. It’s also a lovely gesture to tip any supportive trekking guides or private drivers (standard tipping rate is 10%).

9. Tours in Tajikistan

Exploring Tajikistan by going on an organized tour is a wonderful, worthwhile and convenient way to see some of Tajikistan’s most beautiful spots. I work together with local travel operators who offer customized tours so you can contact me if you need help with Tajikistan tour planning .

I also organize the unique 16-day Highlights of Tajikistan Adventure Tour during which you go with a small group on an adventurous road trip along the  Pamir Highway , stay with local people and experience the culture in the  Jisue and Wakhan Valleys ,  hike to various alpine lakes  in the scenic  Pamir Mountains  and join a  3-day trek  in the stunning  Fann Mountains !

How many days do you need for Tajikistan?

It’s all relative to what you want to see and do whilst visiting Tajikistan. Many of the organised tours are between 7 to 10 days but if you want to see and experience more and you have the time and budget, then you should definitely spend at least 14 days here to visit Tajikistan’s Highlights such as traveling along the Pamir Highway and hiking in the Fann Mountains .

10. Where to stay in Tajikistan — Accommodation in Tajikistan

10.1 hostels, hotels and airbnb in tajikistan.

Hostels are a good option in Tajikistan’s larger cities. Not only are they affordable, around $20 per night, but they are also great places to meet travel partners. Teaming up with others who are planning on travelling the Pamir Highway for example is a clever way to save money and also fill a shared car.

Hotels are more and more popular, especially in Dushanbe, Khorog and Khujand. There are varying choices to suit different budgets but it’s possible to find a room for around $30 per night. Smaller towns that are popular with locals also have some hotel options that offer cheaper prices compared to the cities.

It’s also worth checking out the accommodation options on Airbnb. You can sometimes find entire apartments for rent at very reasonable rates, $25 per night.

10.2 Homestays/guesthouses in Tajikistan

If you’re looking for an authentic way to spend your evening whilst staying in Tajikistan, then you should definitely spend some time in a homestay or guesthouse. In most towns and cities you will likely find a good selection to choose from.

Spending an evening staying in a local person’s home and sharing food is a really lovely way to soak up the culture of Tajikistan. You’ll pay around $13 per night which normally includes dinner and then breakfast the following day. You’ll more than likely receive a friendly welcome and maybe even stay for lunch too.

When travelling on the Pamir Highway, homestays are the best option for a tight budget and there are many to choose from. A word of warning though, be wary of what you eat whilst in homestays as it’s common to get an upset stomach.

10.3 Camping in Tajikistan

If you love the big outdoors, then wild camping in Tajikistan might be just for you! Camping is a fantastic way to soak up the epic landscapes of Tajikistan. It’s important to note that although it’s fairly straightforward and easy to camp throughout the country, that you should adhere to a few wild camping rules. Make sure you don’t camp in the same pitch for more than once night, or on private land without getting permission first.  

Also make sure that you have plenty of supplies – food and water – depending on how rural you choose to go. Some guesthouses will also grant you permission to camp on their land for around $2 per night. Be smart and plan ahead if you do feel drawn to camp whilst travelling in Tajikistan and keep an eye on the weather too.

11. Tajikistan Food and drinks

The food in Tajikistan is typically Central Asian but with the added influence from Afghanistan and Russia. With plenty of dairy and grilled meat in their dishes, it’s traditional to be served bread (non) and tea with every meal.

If you happen to be in the country during late summer, you’ll be spoiled for choice with fruit such as watermelons, pomegranates, grapes, figs, peaches and apricots.

11.1 5 Tajik dishes you have to try

Oshi Palav (pilaf/Plov) is known as the ‘King of Meals’ in Tajikistan. UNESCO has recognised it as part of the country’s cultural heritage and there are hundreds of varying recipes for this famed Central Asian dish. Ingredients include rice, meat, vegetables and seasoning that are all slow-cooked or fried together on a kazan – a traditional cooking pot. 

Qurutob is Tajikistan’s national dish and consists of tomatoes, cucumber, peppers, with meat and fatir (a puff pastry like flatbread). This unique salad dish gets its name from ‘Qurut’ – salted, dried balls of yoghurt that have been soaked and then the mixture is used as a base for the dish. It’s traditionally a dish made to be shared with others using your hands and it’s commonly served on a large plate called a tabaq.

Sambusa/samosa is a type of savoury meat pie with origins dating back as far as the 10th century. The world knows it for its famous triangular shape and Tajiks sometimes choose to fry them or bake them. You will find a few different types of sambusas in Tajikistan, some filled with meat and others using vegetarian ingredients.

Shurbo is one of Tajikistan’s deliciously hearty soups made using a medley of vegetables and meat, usually either mutton or beef. It’s commonly served alongside non or fatir breads.

Shakarob is a form of qurutob (tomato and onion salad) that has been made without using meat but includes chakka- a type of Middle Eastern dairy named as cheese or yoghurt. It’s a great dish to be enjoyed later in the evening in Tajikistan as it’s light and easy to prepare. It’s also a great choice for vegetarians visiting Tajikistan.

11.2 Is vegetarian food available in Tajikistan?

You may be hard-pushed to find a lot of purely vegetarian options on offer in Tajikistan. If you find yourself in more tourist places and larger cities, there will be far more opportunities for you to find a restaurant that will either serve or adapt one of their existing dishes to exclude meat.

Bread is plentiful along with qurutob, balls of salty cheese. Fruit and vegetables are widely available to buy in the food markets but be cautious of any raw meals such as salads served to you in restaurants. Instead opt for something that has been cooked.

11.3 What is the national drink of Tajikistan?

Green tea is the most commonly served beverage and also the national drink in Tajikistan. It is a very large part of Tajik culture and you’ll be offered it before, between as well as after a meal. It is served from a fine china teapot into handleless cups known as piala. Black tea is also popular, especially during winter.

11.4 Alcohol in Tajikistan

Tajikistan is a Muslim country, meaning that alcohol is not really permitted. But, despite this, you will find vodka served in most cafes and eateries. Vodka also remains a very popular drink, especially for the Tajik generation who grew up during Soviet Rule.

12. Packing list for Tajikistan

12.1 what should i wear in tajikistan.

Your clothing choices will reflect the season and the area that you plan on travelling to in Tajikistan.

If you happen to be trekking then warm, thermal and waterproof layers will come in useful. If you’re travelling in Tajikistan throughout the hotter, summer months then light cotton clothes would be appropriate in the cities.

Bear in mind that although there are no set rules regarding style of clothing, Tajikistan is a Muslim country and if you plan on visiting mosques or other religious and sacred places, your clothing must be loose and cover your arms and legs below the knee.

You can wear shorts and T-shirts in the cities but better leave any sleeveless shirts at home. If you like to explore less-touristic places like small towns and villages, dress modestly. Wear a T-shirt or a tunic over long trousers or a long skirt. Three-quarter pants or skirts are also fine, just don’t walk around the village in a vest top and short shorts.

12.2 Travel essentials for Tajikistan

Here’s a list of essential items for Tajikistan travel. It’s important to note that whilst in Tajikistan you keep your travel documents and passport on you most of the time. It’s common as a visitor for military and police officials to ask for your papers as well as at checkpoints.

• Water Filter Bottle : I strongly advise not to drink tap water in Tajikistan. Buy bottles of water in the local supermarkets or better, bring  a water bottle with a filter . It’s not only good for your belly and wallet, but it’s also great for the environment because you don’t have to buy any plastic bottles of water. I use and highly recommend the  Lifestraw Water Filter Bottle . 
• Anti-diarrhea tablets :  yes, I’m afraid that this is an essential as well… 80% of the travelers I’ve met struggle at some point with stomach issues, due to a certain bacteria in the food. I always have Furazolidone tablets (which you can buy over the counter at a local pharmacy) as it has proven its worth. These tablets tackle the bacteria causing bowel problems within a day.
• International travel adapt or :  the power sockets inTajikistan are of type C and F (the same as in Europe). The standard voltage is 220 V and the standard frequency is 50 Hz. In case you need an adaptor, I use and recommend this  all-in-one Universal Travel Adaptor  as you can use it worldwide.
• Power bank :  you’ll need a power bank if you’re planning on traveling the Pamir Highway, the mountains and in general outside the cities. It’s in any case always handy to have with you in case of a power outage occurs, even in the major cities). I use and recommend  Anker Power Bank   as it has a 20,000mAh cell capacity providing at least 5 full charges for my phone. I can even charge my camera batteries with it!
• Anti-theft money belt :  handy and safe when you travel with cash
• Photography equipment :  you can’t visit Tajikistan without capturing its beauty on camera! Read my guide  photography essentials and cameras for travel photographers  for more information.
• Trekking gear and warm clothing (even in summer) if you’re heading into the mountains and the Pamir highway

The Complete Packing List for Traveling and Trekking in Central Asia

13. Are drones allowed in Tajikistan?

Drones are allowed in Tajikistan, however, you must follow certain laws when flying a drone in the country. You’re not required to purchase a drone permit if you are using yours for recreational use however if it’s for commercial use, then you must obtain a permit.

14. How is the internet in Tajikistan?

The internet in Tajikistan is filtered and some websites have been deliberately blocked. 3G is accessible whilst in the larger cities and towns however in more rural places outside the cities, you can expect a very slow internet speed.

If you are in Dushanbe, you can find some internet cafes that will offer WiFi allowing you to stay in touch with the rest of the world! If you plan on travelling the Pamir Highway and the Wakhan Valley it’s good to know that WiFi is almost non-existent.

14.1 Which is the best SIM card in Tajikistan and how to get one?

Beeline and Babilon-M are the better providers for Dushanbe, but in Murghab, Tcell and Megafon are better. You can nowadays also get a tourist SIM card at Dushanbe airport or at a Tcell or Megafone shop. These SIM cards are only active for 10 days at a time.

If you’re planning to stay longer than 10 days in Tajikistan, you’ll have to go to a shop of the internet provider with your passport and a registration slip of your accommodation to reactive your SIM card for another 10 days. You always have the option to choose to ‘roam’ with your SIM card from home but it’s likely to cost you a lot in charges.

14.2 Recommended apps for Tajikistan

• Maps.me : This is a very practical app to find your way in Tajikistan. You can download the map of the country for offline usage. The app gives you accurate directions and shows you where you can find the nearest restaurants, bus stations, ATM, hotels, places with wi-fi, points of interest. It also tells you the number of the bus you need to take when you travel within a city.
• Wikiroutes : Wikiroutes is a handy app if you travel by public transportation. It shows you the bus and/or metro route and tells you where to hop on and off. 
• Google Translate :  Translates written and spoken Tajik, Persian and Russian. You can download Persian and Russian for offline use ( see 17. What languages are spoken in Tajikistan below for more info on the spoken language in Tajikistan ).
• Xe currency:   a very handy currency conversion app that always uses the latest rates in effect. It’s useful to keep track of how much things cost in Tajikistan.
• Booking.com : I made all my reservations for hostels and guesthouses inTajikistan through this hotel and hostel booking website, which is also available as a phone app. No other app comes close to it in terms of inventory and price.

15. Culture and etiquette in Tajikistan

65% of the total population of the people of Tajikistan are ethnic descendants from Persia. The Pamiris, who reside in the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Province make up part of this percentage. However, they speak a different language and also belong to a different sect of Islam. The Muslim faith has helped shape the music, art and food in Tajikistan as well as the national identity and culture.

Due to years of conflict, deep scars still are present within the country’s consciousness. Tajik customs centre around respect and hospitality and people tend to be very family-orientated and friendly. The culture is similar to that of both Iran and Afghanistan dating back thousands of years.

One of the ways people show respect to one another can be seen in their greetings. It’s a sign of good manners to place the left hand over the heart and bow slightly and is customary for the elderly to be given a place of honour in social situations, with men and women often being separated.

Some handy tips while traveling:

• Bread is sacred. Try not to leave chunks on your plate or drop it on the floor. Especially don’t put it under your lap and save for later and, even worse, throw it in the bin (this will deeply upset the people)!
• Remove your shoes before going inside a guesthouse, homestay or any home. Even if you don’t need to, it’s a sign of respect.
• Veggies/vegans! When traveling in the cities and eating at restaurants, you’ll be fine. But… if you’re staying at guesthouses or homestays in the mountains, it’s a huge sign of honour for the hosts to present the guest with meat at dinner. You could try not eating the meat but it might seem a bit disrespectful if you can’t explain your reasons.

16. What is the religion in Tajikistan?

The majority of people in Tajikistan are Suni Muslims and practice Islam which is the predominant religion throughout Central Asia. The religion was introduced by the Arabs during the 7th century and is an integral part of the country’s culture. Although religious freedom was declared by the Tajik government, a few public holidays are celebrating significant dates in the Islam faith, such as Eid al-Qurban (Feast of the Sacrifice) usually somewhere in August or September.

17. Do people in Tajikistan speak English?

English is very slowly becoming a more widespread spoken language in Tajikistan, especially with the younger Tajik generation living in the cities. Along with the exposure to the language via television and the internet, the ability to speak and understand English offers new career opportunities to the youth in Tajikistan. However, don’t depend on it, especially in rural areas.

17.1 What languages are spoken in Tajikistan?

Tajik, the main language in Tajikistan, is a dialect of Persian and a language spoken in Afghanistan and Iran. Other widely spoken languages include Russian with minority languages Uzbek, Pamiri, Kyrgyz and Yaghnobi. 

It will benefit you to know some Russian or Persian whilst traveling in Tajikistan. I also you install the  Google Translate App  for Tajik translations (only online) and download Persian and Russian into your app that you can use offline.

17.2 Useful expressions to know before visiting Tajikistan

• ‘Assalomu alejkym’ – Hello (general greeting)
• ‘Hayr’ – Goodbye
• ‘Shumo chi khel?’ (shoo-moh-chee-khel?) – How are you?
• ‘Naghz, rahmat’ – Fine, thank you.
• ‘Rahmat/Tashakur’ – Thank you
• ‘Lutfan/ iltimos’ – Please
• ‘ Bubahshed’ – Excuse me (sorry)
• ‘Shumo az kujo hasted’ OR ‘shumo az kujoed?’ – Where are you from?
• ‘In (pronounced ‘ee’ for ’i’ sound) chand pool? ’ – How much is this?

18. Recommended books about Tajikistan

When traveling in Uzbekistan, I would recommend bringing a small pocket phrasebook like the  Lonely Planet Central Asia Phrasebook & Dictionary  as it contains some useful phrases.

I would also recommend reading one or more of the following books:

• Tajikistan Bradt Travel Guide is one of the most comprehensive travel guide books about Tajikistan
• Lonely Planet Central Asia is ideal if you’re also planning on visiting other destinations in Central Asia
• Trekking in Tajikistan is a very informative book that specifically covers about 25 different routes in Tajikistan and is a must for any serious hikers out there
• The History of Tajikistan: Silk Roads and Summits , is a great book if you want to learn more about Tajikistan’s history
• The Silk Roads: A New History of the World : a journey through time, a revelatory new history of the world, connecting all the vast webs of roads to gain a greater understanding of modern history

I hope that you have enjoyed reading my Tajikistan travel guide. I wish you a beautiful adventure if you are planning a trip to this interesting and vast, mountainous land. Happy travels!

Do you still have questions about your upcoming journey to Tajikistan? Let me know in the comments below or send me an emai l!

Related posts

Best Tips and complete Packing List for Traveling in Central Asia in 2024 – When to go and what to wear when visiting Central Asia

Volunteering in the South of Tajikistan: English Language and Education Centers SWORDE-TEPPA

The Complete Guide to the Fann Mountains in Tajikistan

5 Top Things to do at Iskanderkul Lake in Tajikistan

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The Ultimate Tajikistan Travel Guide

Updated April 2024, The Ultimate Tajikistan Travel Guide was originally written December 2016

Where Carib-blue glacial lakes reflect atmosphere scraping mountains, hospitality is something of legend and where travel is just opening up. Without a doubt traveling in Tajikistan is a rewarding experience. Wild and rugged, Tajikistan is a country that attracts few adventurers, but those who dare go here are more than rewarded.

If you’re looking for idyllic raw nature where few others roam Tajikistan is the place for you. But don’t worry, there are a few stops to get in some creature comforts for those not as intrepid. Here is everything you need to know about Tajikistan travel.

I can honestly say after so many trips I’ve lost count and several months years spent in Tajikistan, it is my favorite country in the world. There’s nowhere else I’ve spent more time (aside from home) and nowhere else I’ve written this extensively about. Here is literally everything I’ve learned on the road in all my Tajikistan travel experience.

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Wanna join an epic trek in the Fann Mountains or a Journey along the Pamir Highway?

I will be leading a 12 day trek that takes in the best of Tajikistan’s Fann Mountains again this summer, followed by a 12 day trip down the Pamir Highway. The Fann Mountains Trek will take place June 12-23, 2024 and the Pamir Highway Expedition will be from June 25-July 6, 2024, with the option to combo both into a 25 day Tajikistan Expedition .

General Travel Info

Tajikistan’s currency is the Tajik Somoni ( TJS  for short). As of  April 2024 , the exchange is now:

• $1 USD=11.00 TJS
• €1=11.60 TJS
• £1=13.35 TJS

Gone are the days of the black market, and since 2019 ATMs in major cities and towns generally work! This was a welcomed change from my previous years spent in Tajikistan where 80% of ATMs were out of money, 19% didn’t take foreign cards, leaving that rare 1% to serve you.

I still recommend bringing some USD in with you in the event ATMs go back to their old ways– USD is still widely accepted for larger payments, but money can be exchanged quite easily if need be.

I have found ATMs accepting foreign cards in Dushanbe, Khujand, Khorog, Qalaikhumb, Istaravshan, and Panjakent. Murghab still does not have an ATM as of 2023.

Tipping isn’t standard in Tajikistan, however, those in services that cater toward tourists like guides and drivers will likely expect a tip of 10%. Many restaurants in cities will include a 10% gratuity as a service charge on the bill.

Just starting to plan your visit to Tajikistan? Grab a copy of Bradt’s Tajikistan guidebook

Hospitality

Tajiks are extremely welcoming and hospitable so it’s not uncommon for complete strangers to invite you to their home for a meal or to spend the night with their family. Typically Tajiks will not accept any kind of payment in this case, so it is recommended to either hide a few Somoni in the home or give it to the eldest child.

The country isn’t particularly wealthy and people will go above and beyond and even into debt to show you Tajik hospitality. Bringing small gifts is another great idea to show your appreciation.

Long story short, learn basic phrases in Russian and/or Tajik before you head to Tajikistan.

Tajik is the official language of Tajikistan. It is more or less a dialect of Farsi spoken in Iran and Dari spoken in Afghanistan . The one thing that sets Tajik the furthest apart from Dari and Farsi is the use of the Cyrillic alphabet over the Persian-modified Arabic script.

Russian is still commonly used and understood especially among locals over the age of 30, if traveling the whole of  Central Asia , Russian will most likely prove the most useful to learn. Then, of course, there are several regional languages: Pamiri, Bartangi, Wakhi, Yagnobi/Sogdian, and so on. Children and teenagers may know a few words of English as it is becoming more popular.

Make sure you can read Cyrillic script before you come to Tajikistan or Central Asia. Many signs and menus in Tajikistan are written in Cyrillic.

Islam is the main religion in the country. The majority of people are Sunni.

In Khorog, the  Wakhan , and the  Bartang Valley  you’ll find a large number of Ismaili Muslims who are a quite progressive Shia sect. Of course, there is a small number of other religions practiced, such as Zoroastrianism, Christianity, Russian Orthodoxy, and so on.

What To Wear

As with most majority Islamic countries, respectful dress will make your trip much easier. Tajikistan is a somewhat conservative society but is nowhere near as conservative as other Islamic nations.

For women, as long as you don’t show too much skin you should be fine (even if you do, you will still likely be fine, just stared at). Great outfit options for women are harem pants with loose-fitting shirts, or leggings and tunics. Another good idea would be to have a Tajik style dress (similar to a shalwar kameez) made.

Covering your hair is not required or the norm, but do have a scarf handy with you just in case you find a mosque you’d like to explore. While the headscarf isn’t necessary, you will still see some women wearing it. Mostly they tend to wear a scarf tied around their hair wrapped in a bun.

For men, you can likely wear similar clothing to what you would wear at home. You’ll see men wearing jeans and t-shirts, as well as dress pants and button-down shirts. Shorts above the knee aren’t common.

Men do cover their heads when entering mosques, many mosques will have loner doppa caps you can borrow, or you can pick up a doppa at a bazaar.

How Long To Travel Tajikistan

This depends largely on what you plan to do and where you’d like to go. Most Tajik visas given out are 60 days in length which is a decent amount of time to get to know the country. 2-3 weeks is a good amount of time to fit in the highlights of Tajikistan.

The biggest attraction in Tajikistan is the famed  Pamir Highway  road trip, followed by trekking in the  Fann Mountains .

The typical amount of time needed to travel the Pamir Highway between Dushanbe and  Osh, Kyrgyzstan  is 6-9 days, though it is possible to do it in as little as three days. I do not recommend trying to cover the Pamir Highway in 3 days as this would mean sitting in the car for 8-16 hours each day and doesn’t give you any time to actually get out of the car except for to sleep at night.

Usually, people take between 5 and 9 days to complete it. However, those wanting to really get a feel for the region and get some trekking in could spend weeks here and not feel like they scratched the surface.

For those visiting the Fann Mountains, most will spend 2-10 days in the area trekking in the mountains to the beautiful lakes. Of course, you can spend 2 weeks to a month easily if wanting to more thoroughly explore the Fanns as well as the nearby  Yagnob Valley .

Here Are A Few Examples Of Time Allotments For Those Planning Tajikistan Travel

• Pamir Highway  (without the Wakhan Valley): 5-7 days
• Pamir Highway (with the  Wakhan Valley ): 7-9 days
• Fann Mountains  Trekking ( Lakes Loop ): 3-5 days
• Haft Kul  (7 Lakes of Marguzor or Shing) Trekking: 1-2 days
• Yagnob Valley  Trekking: 4-10 days
• Jizeu Trek : 1-2 Days
• Dushanbe : 1-2 days
• Khujand  1-2 days
• Khorog : 1 day
• Murghab : 1 Day
• Istaravshan : 1 Day

Read:  1-4 Week Tajikistan Itinerary Ideas

When To Travel Tajikistan

The best time of year to visit Tajikistan is largely dependent on what you plan to do. The best time to access mountain passes, camp, and even travel around the Pamir Highway is from mid-June to mid-September.

Summer stretches from June to August, this is when the high-altitude passes are most easily accessible.

The lower-lying cities such as Dushanbe, Khujand, Kulab, and even Khorog can be downright scorching hot in summer. Fall is the best time to visit cities as temperatures start to cool down in September and steadily drop through October.

Trekking is still possible and quite beautiful in fall, although October can get quite cold toward the end of the month and snow can be expected at higher elevations.

Winter stretches from November to March and roads through passes will be closed at times. Winter can be a great time to visit for those wanting to ski Tajikistan’s nearly untouched mountains.

The spring months of April & May bring wetter weather and landslides to the Fanns and Pamirs making travel difficult. In spring head for the Karotegin Valley, or into the rarely-touristed southwest of Tajikistan.

Most of your transportation in Tajikistan will be by shared taxi, minibus/marshrutka, private 4×4 hire. Hitchhiking is possible but can vary in difficulty depending on where in the country you’re at or plan to go. Note that pretty much anyone with a car will function as a taxi driver, so even when planning to hitchhike many drivers will still expect some payment.

Shared taxis and marshrutka/minibusses tend to only leave when full from taxi stands and bus stations in cities and towns. They typically have a fixed price per seat, so if you are in a hurry and would like to depart sooner it’s possible to pay for the empty seats. The prices listed below are a rough estimate of shared taxi prices based on my most recent visit ( summer 2023 ), do plan to haggle with drivers.

Private 4×4 hire is a common way tourists get around the country as well, although more expensive. Most travelers will travel the Pamir Highway by 4×4 hire split amongst a group of backpackers. Prices tend to fall between 0.70-0.90 (USD) per kilometer.

Shared Taxi Prices Per Seat Unless Stated Otherwise

• Dushanbe-Penjikient: 130 TJS
• Dushanbe-Sarvoda: 50 TJS
• Sarvoda-Alovaddin: 200 TJS (entire car)
• Sarvoda-Margib: 300 TJS (entire car)
• Penjikent-Khujand: 120-150 TJS
• Khujand-Istaravshan: 20 TJS
• Khujand-Isfara: 30 TJS
• Dushanbe-Khorog: 400 TJS to Khorog, 350 TJS back to Dushanbe
• Khorog-Ishkashim: 50 TJS
• Ishkashim-Langar: 70 TJS
• Langar-Khorog: 120 TJS
• Khorog-Murghab: 120 TJS
• Murghab-Osh: 200 TJS

Private Car Hire On Popular Routes

For private car hire there are two ways of doing this and one is often substantially more expensive. If you will be going on a popular route such as the ones listed above for shared taxis, you can simply go to a shared taxi stand and offer to purchase all the seats in the vehicle and leave right then and there. For example, if you want to go from Dushanbe to Sarvoda- a seat in a shared taxi would normally cost 50 TJS and there are four passenger seats in the car, so you’ll pay 200 TJS to charter the entire car.

The other way that is more expensive, though you’ll be able to guarantee your departure time, will most certainly have a better quality vehicle, and you don’t have to deal with haggling a price is to book a car in advance with a tour operator in the country. Doing it this way you will spend anywhere between .70-.90 per kilometer and if you have a group, you can split this cost amongst your group members.

Get In & Out

The only ways you can enter Tajikistan are by air or by land ( train or car ).

Both Dushanbe and Khujand have international airports.  Somon Air  is Tajikistan’s sole national carrier, otherwise, Tajikistan is served by an array of international carriers: Turkish Air, China Southern, Kam Air, Air Astana, Air Manas, Avia Traffic Company, FlyDubai, Nordstar, S7, Ural Airlines,  Utair, Uzbekistan Airlines, and Yamal. Cities connected to Tajikistan by flight are Almaty, Astana, Bishkek, Kabul, Tashkent, Urumqi, Beijing, Dubai, Istanbul, Delhi, Frankfurt, and several cities across Russia.

Note that some land border crossings can take hours, and the crossings with  Uzbekistan  used to be the most notorious, though the newly re-opened Samarkand-Panjakent border is a breeze.

Tajikistan has several border crossing points with Afghanistan, Kyrgyzstan, and Uzbekistan, and one border crossing with China. To see all of Tajikistan’s land border crossings and which are and aren’t open to foreigners, please check out my Tajikistan Border Crossings article.

There are several reports online of border guards extorting bribes from travelers or being pervy if you’re a solo female. From personal experience, I’ve never had any issues crossing the  Kyzyl-Art-Bordobo  between Tajikistan and  Kyrgyzstan , or at the recently reopened  Panjakent-Samarkand  crossing between Tajikistan and Uzbekistan.

I did have a little bit of a hassle when I was exiting Tajikistan at  Ishkashim  into Afghanistan because my e-visa had not been stamped when I entered the country at  Khujand  (I don’t know why this was an issue as my passport had a stamp in it), however, after arguing for a couple of minutes I was allowed to exit Tajikistan with no further problems.

Two exciting updates have happened more recently,  in 2017 the  Qolma Pass  into China is now open to foreigners (it has reopened following Covid in July 2023 as I received confirmation of the first foreigner to cross) and as of 2018 the Panjakent border to Uzbekistan is open again after a several-year-long pissing match between Tajikistan and Uzbekistan.

The train isn’t a viable option to travel in Tajikistan and is realistically only used by those heading for Uzbekistan. Trains link Khujand with Uzbekistan, and in the south, a train links Dushanbe to Kulob, and Qurgonteppa with Uzbekistan. Read more on  Caravanistan . 

There is a 5 day long train to Moscow from Dushanbe. It can be difficult due to the train crossing into Uzbekistan,  Turkmenistan , and  Kazakhstan , and from the sounds of it you may need to have transit visas in order.

Need more in-depth info in Tajikistan’s border crossings? Read my post on all of Tajikistan border crossings here

Plan the perfect trip with my 10 day Uzbekistan & Tajikistan itinerary

Starting January 2022 Tajikistan became visa-free for stays up to 30 days for a number of passport holders. The 2016 e-visa system is still in place as well, as several countries will still need to obtain an e-visa in order to enter the country.

Those not on the visa-free or e-visa lists will need to obtain a visa from their nearest Tajik Embassy or Consulate.

Check out my Tajikistan Visa Guide for in-depth details on the visa policy of Tajikistan

Tajikistan Travel Permits

The previously mentioned GBAO Permit is a must for travel in the Gorno Badakhshan Autonomous Oblast. The GBAO region makes about for the eastern half of the entire country, and those traveling along the  Pamir Highway  will travel through most of the GBAO. There are police posts set up along the Pamir Highway and it will be checked.

The only other required permits are for the Tajik National Park, Lake Sarez, and for Zorkul.

GBAO Permit- $20:  This is a must for anyone traveling the Pamir Highway and anywhere in the eastern half of the country. It is easiest to apply for it at the same time when applying for your  e-visa  (you can apply for it at embassies and consulates when applying for your visa as well), otherwise, you’ll have to visit the OVIR office in Dushanbe (located at Mirzo Turzunzade Street 5, quick turn-around, permit costs 20 TJS). I believe that if you don’t have it arranged and you’re traveling from Osh to Dushanbe you’re just shit out of luck.

Lake Sarez- $50/day:  There is varying information out there on getting the permit. I had read they will be issued for free in Dushanbe from the Ministry for Emergency Situations and can take a month or more to be issued and I’ve also read info stating that you can arrange through tour agencies at a cost of $50/day and a guide is required.

In 2017 I visited  Lake Sarez  and the Usoi Dam with Nurmuhammed, the owner of  Sarez Travel , and I was told by him that a guide is mandatory and that the guide must apply for the permit for you. This is all the more information I know.

When researching the permit before my trip last summer and even asking Tajik friends I got varying responses from “you can just pay KGB if you meet them out there” to “you must have a guide, Sarez Travel is the only organization that can go out there”, and “if you’re caught without a guide and permit you can be thrown in jail and deported”, but most commonly the response I got was that they just flat out didn’t know.

No one was able to give me information on whether or not you need the permit to visit the lake from the south via the Mountain Lakes of Bachor and Bulunkul/Yashilkul, so if anyone has first-hand information please comment at the end of the post or email me at adventuresoflilnicki @ gmail.com.

The Tajik government is really cautious about people visiting Lake Sarez because if the Usoi Dam were to ever breach it would have catastrophic consequences.

Zorkul- $10/day:  Lake within a protected area on the Afghan border in very remote eastern Tajikistan. You will be checked for permits at the post from Khargush Pass. I was told it is only available by applying at  PECTA  (Pamir Eco-Cultural Tourism Association) in Khorog’s City Park. I have read that it is available in Murghab as well, but I am not sure if this is true.

Tajik National Park- 18 TJS/day:  The Tajik National Park is massive, to say the least. You should have a permit for visiting anywhere on the map below that falls within the green area (sorry for the water stains on my permit & map).

Popular places in the Tajik National Park includes are: treks around the Bartang Highway (including Grum Grijmailo Glacier,  Khafrazdara Valley , Lake Sarez), trekking around the Vanj Valley Road (including Poi Mazar & Fedchenko Glacier), the Mountain Lakes of Bachor, Yashilkul, Pshart Valley, Madiyan Valley, and trekking much beyond the shores of Karakul from Karakul Village.

You can purchase your Tajik National Park pass from  PECTA  in Khorog, or from park rangers once you are in the park. You may very well never meet a park ranger when exploring Tajik National Park, my only time having crossed paths with any was when I ended a trek from the Karotegin Valley.

Food in Tajikistan

Nomadic ways meet the Soviet Empire. Tajikistan as well as the greater Central Asia region is not known as a foodie destination. Meals are simple and meat-centric, with little spice. With that said there are some great dishes like Qurutob, which is a personal favorite Tajik dish.

In Dushanbe and to a lesser degree in Khorog international food including Indian, Italian, and more can be found. The best places to go for traditional Tajik fare are chaikhanas (tea houses) or bazaars. Most homestays include at least breakfast and dinner in your nightly fee.

If you want to check out some of the best dishes to try in Tajikistan check out my post on Tajik food and drink .

Here is a list of common dishes you will likely encounter in Tajikistan.

*One thing to note: Tajikistan, as well as the rest of greater Central Asia, have very meat-heavy diets. Vegetarians and vegans will have a challenge outside of cities (more so for vegans). Vegetarianitz/vegertarianka is what vegetarians can call themselves and many people do understand. 

Read:  Best Restaurants in Dushanbe  to find out where to get the best Kurutob

Accommodation

In cities such as Dushanbe, Khorog, Panjakent, and Khujand you will have a wider variety of accommodation options but outside them, you can expect simple guesthouses and homestays.

If you plan to do any trekking it would be wise to bring a tent if you want to stray away from known settlements.

For those that require luxury, I don’t recommend leaving Dushanbe, and you may want to consider traveling to a different country altogether.

Here are some of my favorite accommodations I’ve stayed at in my travels in Tajikistan, note that many of the accommodations listed do not have websites, but you can call to reserve or go to  Pamir Top , and they can usually book just about anywhere for you online.

• Dushanbe:   Hello Hostel Dushanbe
• Dushanbe:  Green House Hostel
• Dushanbe:  Taj Palace Hotel
• Dushanbe:  Hyatt Regency
• Dushanbe:  Serena Dushanbe

Pamir Highway

• Qalaikhumb:  Roma Jurayev (+992 934712117 or +992 919268610)
• Khorog: Welcome Inn (+992 937035393)
• Bachor:  Sultansho Qurboniev Homestay (+992 501849454
• Alichur:  Rahima Doronshoeva Homestay (+992 908482612 or +992 931065658)
• Murghab:  Erali Guesthouse (+992 93563751421618)
• Murghab:  Tulfabek Guesthouse (+992 935389159)
• Murghab:  Tillokhan Guesthouse
• Karakul:  Tildakhan Homestay (+992 906554831)
• Jarty Gumbez:  Jarty Gumbez Guesthouse & Hunting Camp

Wakhan Valley

• Ishkashim:  Hanis Guesthouse (+992 935825820)
• Yamchun/Vichkut: Charshanbe Homestay(+992 938305239)
• Hissor: Davlatakhon Homestay (+992 935148819)
• Langar:  Yodgor Homestay (+992 934288869)

Bartang Valley

• Jizeu:  Lola Homestay (+992 906886676)
• Barchidev:  Nurmuhammed Homestay (+992 935004150)
• Pasor:  Gulsiyat Homestay (+992 900505573)

Fergana Valley

• Khujand:   Sharq 21 Guesthouse
• Istaravshan:  Sadbarg (+992 919887048)

Fann Mountains

• Panjakent:   Salom Hostel
• Panjakent:  Hotel Umariyon
• Haft Kul:  Najmidden Homestay (+992 926366748 or can be booked through  ZTDA )
• Iskanderkul:  Shezok Guesthouse (+992 939048921)
• Sarytag: Shaboz Guesthouse (+992 903436200)
• Sarytag:  Dilovar’s Homestay (+992 927882235 or can be booked online through  ZTDA )

Tajikistan Travel: Top Things To See & Do

Where to start, where to start… Tajikistan is  one of  the most stunning countries I’ve visited. The mountains and remoteness are usually the main allure for most tourists who travel to Tajikistan. Here are a few popular adventures:

The Pamir Highway (M41)

The Roof of The World or ‘Bam-i-Dunya’ as the Pamiris call it.

Note that there is extensive construction happening on the Pamir Highway in summer 2023! The roadwork is happening between Qala i Khumb and Khorog and is causing major delays, so it’s adviseable to split the Dushanbe-Khorog jounrye into two days, spending a night in Qala i Khumb.

The  Pamir Highway  is the most popular reason people come to Tajikistan. This is the mother of all road trips.

The Pamir Highway actually extends from  Mazar i Sharif , Afghanistan, makes a quick bend into southeastern  Uzbekistan , traverses Tajikistan from west to east to north, and then terminates in Osh, Kyrgyzstan (there are arguments as to the beginning and end of the highway though).

The main stretch of the Pamir Highway most tourists travel on is between Dushanbe and  Osh . This road trip will take you through high altitude passes, Pamiri and Kyrgyz villages, jagged mountains, crystal clear lakes, and even give you glimpses into the Pakistani Hindi Kush and rural northern Afghanistan just a mere few meters across the Panj River. It also provides access to many treks into the Pamirs ranging in difficulty from easy to hardcore mountaineering.

Expect to pay in the range of 0.70 -0.90 USD per kilometer for a Landcruiser or Pajero with a driver. On my first trip to Tajikistan I chose to travel by private car hire (I wanted to really get the most out of my Pamir Highway adventure, little did I know I’d be back yearly). The driver, Khorasan I ended up arranging to get me from Dushanbe to Khorog from  Hello Hostel  was absolutely lovely, so once we arrived in  Khorog  and he offered me a generous $0.70 per kilometer off the starting gate to take me from Khorog to Osh I immediately took him up on it.

I did numerous side trips and ended up racking up 1,500 km between Khorog and Osh so my grand total came to $1,050 USD. If you were to drive straight from Khorog to Osh it’s about 730 km, which would be substantially cheaper than what I did.

You can also cut down on costs if hiring a private 4×4 by putting a note up on the board at the  PECTA  office in Khorog’s City Park (Pamir Eco-Cultural Tourism Association), or even contacting them via e-mail and arranging a group of you to go in on a 4×4 to bring down the cost. You can also essentially do the same thing in Osh and  Murghab  if you are headed in the opposite direction. A great place to check to find other travelers is on the  Caravanistan Forum .

The cheapest way to do this trip would be of course cycling (most the travelers I met in the Pamirs were cycling it), or walking if you’re really determined (there was one man walking the road when I was there). If a private 4×4 even split amongst travelers is out of your budget and you aren’t up for a looooong bike ride or walk, the next cheapest option is to go by means of shared taxis.

Shared taxis will be a fraction of the cost of a Landcruiser of Pajero. However, you sacrifice the freedom of stopping every kilometer to take a photo and the possibility of being ‘stuck’ in a place for a few days until you can arrange the next leg out.

It is possible to make the trip between Dushanbe and Khorog in 3 days, but why? Most who travel the highway making side trips and treks will take around 9 days. For those really wanting to see the area, a month can even not yield enough time.

I personally have spent 2 weeks along the Pamir Highway in 2016, and over 4 weeks in 2017, and yet there is still a lot I haven’t seen in the Pamirs and GBAO region.

If you need help planning and budgeting your Pamir Highway adventure go check out my  Pamir Highway Guide . If you want help curating the perfect itinerary, check out my 10 day Pamir Highway itinerary .

Trekking in the Fann Mountains, Haft Kul & Yagnob Valley

The Fann Mountains are the best trekking destination you’ve never heard of. With many jagged peaks, stunningly beautiful crystal clear lakes, glacially carved valleys, and a decent network of homestays to experience rural Tajik culture and life it’s easy to see why the Fanns are the second most visited part of the country. Treks range from easy to extremely difficult ascent to summit 5000+ meter peaks.

The Fanns are located in northwestern Tajikistan, the main jumping-off points into the Fanns is the small city of  Panjakent . For those wanting to combine trekking in the Fanns with the historical Silk Road city of  Samarkand  across the border in Uzbekistan, it became easy yet again with the re-opening of the  Panjakent-Samarkand border crossing  in 2018.

Artuch Base Camp can be reached by shared taxi or minibus from Panjakent, and Panjakent can be easily reached by shared taxi and minibus from  Dushanbe ,  Khujand , Sarvoda, Ayni, and Samarkand. The popular and easiest to access trek in the area is the  Seven Lakes of Marguzor  (the Haft Kul). The lakes can easily be reached by shared taxi and minibus from Panjakent. Note that your passport and e-visa will be checked at the checkpoint near Shing Village on your way down to the lakes.

Popular treks and sites in the Fanns include the  Haft Kul , the  Lakes Loop Trek ,  Iskanderkul , Kulikalon Bowl,  Chimtarga Pass ,  Dukdon Pass , Lake Alovaddin,  Bolshoi Allo Lake , and Kaznok Pass. To find out more about the Fanns and arrange homestays and guides, visit  ZTDA  (Zerafshan Tourism Development Association). To learn more about traveling in the Fann Mountains and trekking recommendations check out my  Fann Mountains Travel Guide ,  Haft Kul Trekking Guide ,  Chimtarga Pass Guide , and  Lakes Loop Trekking Guide .

The Yagnob Valley is much less visited than the Fann Mountains albeit being not very far away. The draw here is to visit villages where people have lived traditionally for hundreds of years and still speak the ancient Sogdian language. The Yagnob valley can be reached by a shared taxi from Sarvoda to Margib.

Margib is the jumping-off point for trekking into the Yagnob Valley. Read my  Yagnob Valley Trekking & Travel Guide  that was recently written after my visit in 2019.  ZTDA  can help arrange transport, guides, porters, homestays, and more.

Need more hiking ideas? Read the  10 best treks in Tajikistan

The Wakhan Valley

Many include the excursion through the Wakhan Valley as an alternative route on their Pamir Highway trip. From Khorog, rather than follow the true M41 through the Ghunt Valley toward Jelondy and Bulunkul, you will head south to the beautiful  Tajik Wakhan Valley  and meet back up with the M41 via the Khargush Pass near Bulunkul.

The Wakhan Valley follows the Afghan border through some truly amazing scenery with glimpses of the ice-capped Hindu Kush forming the natural border of Afghanistan and Pakistan across the Pamir River, which forms the natural border between Tajikistan and Afghanistan.

You will pass through the picturesque villages of Ishkashim, Namadgut, Darshai, Yamchun, Yamg, Vrang, Zong, Langar, and finally Ratm as you travel along the valley. At every turn, there are sights your eyes will be glued to, but make sure to stop off at Garam Chashma (hot spring), Qaaqa Fortress, Darshai Gorge, Yamchun Fortress, Bibi Fatima (hot spring), Vrang’s Buddhist Stupa, and so many more.

Find more information on traveling in the Wakhan and more check out the  Tajik Wakhan Valley Guide .

Ishkashim is also the jumping-off point and the border crossing into the Afghan Wakhan Corridor. In 2017 I did make the visit across into the Afghan Wakhan. Check out my article on what it was like to  travel as a solo woman in the Afghan Wakhan , learn  how to get an Afghan Visa in Khorog , and see  photos from my travels in the Afghan Wakhan & Great Pamir Mountains .

Ishkashim is also home to the popular cross-border Saturday market where Tajiks and Afghans come to buy and sell goods with each other, which takes place on an island in the Panj River (technically on the Afghan side). The main reason tourists visit the market is for the bragging rights of saying they’ve been to Afghanistan, however without having to shell out big money for the visa. The market was sporadically open in 2016 and was closed for 2017 as far as I am aware.

If you happen to be in the area and the day lines up, ask locals if it may be on, but as of right now, do not expect it to be.

Got the Afghan Wakhan on your mind?

Bartang Highway & Valley

This is probably the wildest ride you’ll have in Tajikistan and is a popular alternative for traveler and cyclists to the Pamir Highway. This road cuts through the super remote Western Pamir along the Bartang River Valley. The Bartang Highway links up with the Pamir Highway at the village of Rushan (50 km north of Khorog) in the south, and near  Karakul  in the north.

The best time of year to travel the Bartang Highway is from mid-July until mid-September. Earlier in the spring, the road is usually inaccessible due to the river running high and landslides and in the later fall because of heavy snow.

The most visited stretch of the Bartang Highway is just a few kilometers up from Rushan where travelers get dropped off at suspension bridge and make the  short trek to the beautiful village of Jizeu .

Other excursions in the Bartang Valley include the  Khafrazdara Valley/Grum Grijmailo Glacier , experiencing the remote life of the Bartangi people (they’re famed for their legendary hospitality),  Lake Sarez , trekking in Basid & Badara, visiting remote sites between Gudara & Kök Jar, and trekking beyond Jizeu to the Ravmed Valley.

Learn more about visiting the Bartang Valley in the  Bartang Valley Guide . I also have articles on  How to Visit the Khafrazdara Valley ,  How to Visit Lake Sarez , and the  Jizeu trek .

This is the bustling capital of Tajikistan and a likely entry point for those flying into the country. There are a number of attractions around the city including the world’s second-tallest flagpole, the world’s largest teahouse, Mehrong Bazaar, Rudaki Park, and more.

Check out the  Dushanbe City Guide  for more information on everything you need to know before visiting Dushanbe. Looking for the best places to eat in Dushanbe? Check out my post:  Best Restaurants in Dushanbe .

This is the largest city in the GBAO region and home to most of Tajikistan’s Ismaili population- Ismailis are Shia and known for their very progressive interpretation of Islam.  Khorog  is a great jumping-off point for many adventures in the Badakhshan, making arrangements if you plan to travel across the border into  Afghanistan , getting an  Afghan Visa , and a nice place to relax between adventures in the Pamirs.

Make sure to spend an afternoon at Khorog’s Central Park, where you’ll find a large swimming pool, carnival, walking paths, a couple of chaikhanas, and home to the  PECTA  office. Other sites to visit include the Botanical Garden, Aga Khan Foundation, and the Central Asia University.

The Tajik Fergana Valley

Khujand  is the main city in the Tajik Fergana Valley with enough sites to keep you busy for a couple of days. Make sure to visit the bustling Panshanbe Bazaar, Sheikh Massal ad-Din Mausoleum & Complex, the ancient Citadel & Kamoli Khujandi Park, and the tallest Lenin Statue still standing in Central Asia.

Istaravshan  is another popular stop in the Tajik Fergana Valley, located only about 90 minutes by shared taxi from Khujand. Istaravshan has several lovely mosques and madrasa without the large crowds that Samarkand and Bukhara draw on the other side of the border. The attractions here include Mug Teppe, Shahr-e-Kuhna, Hazrat-i-Shah Mosque, Hauz-i-Sangin Mosque, Sary Mazar, Chor Gumbez, and Abdullatif Sultan Madrasa.

You’ve officially made it to the wild wild East. Beautiful surrounding valleys, but  Murghab  isn’t the most picturesque village/town. A great jumping-off point for adventures into the  Eastern Pamir – Pshart Valley, Rang-Kul, Madiyan Vally, Shaimak, and more.

For those headed for the Chinese border at  Qolma Pass , you will likely spend a night in Murghab before or after crossing.

Part of the Zorkul Nature Reserve  ( I unfortunately still have not visited here). Known for its surrounding green valley and remoteness. On the Afghan border near to the Khargush Pass and Keng Shiber.

You do need a Zorkul permit to visit which can be obtained at the  PECTA  office in Khorog (see the previous section on  permits ).

This large lake sits smack in the middle of Tajikistan and only exists because of disaster. In 1911 a magnitude 7.4 earthquake shook down a mountain face that crushed the villages of Usoi and Sarez, naturally creating the Usoi Dam. This dam blocked off the Murghab River and began to fill the valley.

This is a beautiful lake in remote Tajikistan, but you should have a guide and permit before visiting. Learn more about how to get to Lake Sarez in my  Lake Sarez Guide .

Just north of the Ak-Baital Pass is Karakul (sometimes spelled Qarakul), Tajikistan’s largest lake sitting alongside the village of the same name.  Karakul  is believed to be a crater formed by a meteor impact about 10 million years ago, that is now a salt lake, but still freezes in the winter.

There are a handful of homestays here in Karakul where you could break up your Osh to Murghab journey. Attempts are being made to declare Karakul the highest navigable lake in the world, beating out Lake Titicaca in  Peru / Bolivia .

Where To Go In Tajikistan

Dushanbe & around.

Dushanbe and the surrounding areas are often overlooked by most travelers to Tajikistan that are headed to the country for wild mountain adventures in the Pamirs & Fanns. The Rasht Valley and many of the sites around Dushanbe are popular with expats, especially on the weekends.

Dushanbe is the capital and largest city in Tajikistan. Must-see highlights include Bayrak (the world’s second-tallest flagpole), Rudaki Park, Mehrong Bazaar, Kohki Nowruz, Mevlana Yakub Charki Mosque, Victory Park, and more.

Dushanbe is a great place to relax between adventures in the Fanns and Pamirs as well. Read more about what to do, where to stay, and what to eat in my  Dushanbe City Guide . Shop Dushanbe accommodations  here .

Plan your  visit to Dushanbe  and  where to eat  in the city

Hisor is one of the more popular half-day trips from Dushanbe. Travelers come here to explore the Fortress of Hisor and Hisor Caravanserai, as well as the 16 & 17th-century madrasas at the fortress that house a museum. Learn more about how to visit  Hisor here .

How to visit  Hisor Fort  on public transport

Just a short drive north of Dushanbe Varzob Valley is a great day trip away from the bustle of Dushanbe. Make sure and trek out to Gusgarf Falls On your visit. Read more on how to get to  Varzob Gorge & Gusgarf Falls here .

Timur Dara Lake

This beautiful lake sits in the Karatag Valley near the villages of Shahrinav & Hakimi about 45 km west of Dushanbe at the southern fringes of the  Fann Mountains . This trek can be done as a long day trip, or as a multi-day trekking trip in the Karatag Valley. I finally made a day trip from Dushanbe out to Timur Dara in August 2019, well worth the effort.

Read more about getting to Timur Dara Lake  here .

Read the  Timur Dara Trekking Guide  and start planning

Nurek Dam & Reservoir sits about 80 km southeast of Dushanbe along the route most start the Pamir Highway trip from. Nurek Dam is the second highest manmade dam in the world, blocking of the Vakhsh River. Renting a houseboat and lazing around in the water at the Aqua Club are popular excursions from Dushanbe.  Read more here .

Rasht Valley

Located in the Rasht Valley (also called Karotegin Valley) in north-central Tajikistan. The main draw to Garm is trekking in this little-visited part of the country. Treks can be arranged that will take you on a loop around from Hazor Chashma Village.  Caravan Tours  can arrange trips to visit the Rasht Valley.

Located along the main road between Garm and Jirgatol is the picture-perfect village of Jafr. This is one of the most scenic parts of the Rasht Valley Road. One of the main reasons to come to Jafr is to meet Mirzosho Akabirov. Mirzosho has an amazing botanical garden with exotic fruit trees that he has spent years grafting to grow various fruits.

Tavildara is a larger town along the Pamir Highway for those taking the Northern Route between Dushanbe and Qalaikhumb. Nearby to Tavildara is the Sagirdasht Pass that is typically closed from October to May due to snow.

Jirgatol is a small town and the last town along the Rasht Valley Road before hitting the (closed to foreigners) Karamyk border crossing. The main appeal to Jirgatol is to head to nearby Jelondy to take on the  Gardan i Kaftar hike  and trek across the Peter the First Range to a village named Langar, not too far from Tavildara. Jirgatol is also the jumping-off point for those taking on the climb up Peak Somoni.

Plan your visit to the Rasht Valley:  The Rasht Valley Travel Guide

Gorno Badakhshan Autonomous Oblast

The Badakhshan, or commonly just called by its acronym GBAO accounts for about half of Tajikistan’s landmass. With that said, the GBAO is desolate, with only 3% of Tajik citizens calling it home. The GBAO is the most popular draw for tourists wanting to take on the famed  Pamir Highway .

Qala i Khumb

Qala i Khumb feels like a great oasis for those making the long journey between Dushanbe and Khorog. I highly recommend splitting the trip into two days, by spending the night in Qala i Khumb. Qala i Khumb is small and easily walkable with a few shops, restaurants, and accommodations.

I recommend spending the night at  Roma Jurayev Guesthouse  that sits right on the river. Run across the street for a riverside dinner at the Oriona Chaikhana (they serve wine, you’re welcome).  Shop other Qala i Khumb accommodations here .

Check out my travel guide to Qala i Khumb , especially if you plan to spend any time there

Continuing along the Pamir Highway toward Khorog brings us Vanj. Vanj is the jumping-off point for explorations of Fedchenko Glacier, the world’s longest non-polar glacier.

Head east off the M41 on the Vanj Valley Road to Poi Mazar. From Poi Mazar the nose of the glacier is a long day hike there and back but can be split into an overnight trip. There are two homestays along the Vanj Valley the can be booked through  Pamir Top .

Rushan is located about 65 km north of Khorog and is the jumping-off point for further explorations into the Bartang Valley. If planning to spend the night in Rushan before departing into the Bartang Valley,  Mubarek Homestay  comes recommended (+992 934052304).

The Bartang Highway is a wild adventure for anyone wanting to explore into the remote Bartang Valley in the Western Pamir. The most popular excursion along the Bartang Highway is the short and gentle trek to the beautiful village of Jizeu. From KM 23, cross the suspension bridge across the Bartang River and follow the trail for about 2 hours to reach the lower village of Jizeu.

7 of the 14 homes in  Jizeu  act as homestays and will gladly take you in. I stayed at Lola Homestay when I visited Jizeu in 2016 and had a wonderful time there.

But the Bartang Valley is more than just Jizeu. Two of my favorite treks begin from the Bartang Valley. The trek to the wildly remote  Khafrazdara Valley  & Grum Grijmailo Glacier begins from the quaint village of Pasor, as well as the start of the  journey to Lake Sarez  from the village of Barchidev.

Other stops along the Bartang Highway include trekking around Basid & Badara, the adorable village of Savnob, going beyond Jizeu into the Ravmed Valley, and more. Read up more on travel in the Bartang Valley in my  Bartang Valley Travel Guide .

Everything you need to know before taking on the  Bartang Highway

Khorog  is the only real town you’ll find in the GBAO region, home to just under 30,000 people. It’s a laid-back and fairly liberal town in regards to much of the rest of Tajikistan. The population is largely of Ismaili faith- a Shia branch of Islam. It’s not uncommon to see women and girls wearing knee-length skirts, and the headscarf is less popular.

English is fairly widely spoken as Khorog is a well-educated town in Tajikistan thanks to the Aga Khan Foundation’s efforts. You’ll often find yourself being stopped on the streets by friendly locals wanting to speak English with you. Attractions in Khorog include the City Park, Botanical Garden, and Regional Museum. Khorog is a great place to relax between trekking adventures into the Pamirs.

There are a number of guesthouses, hostels, and hotels in Khorog, so check them out  here , and  here . For lunch try Nan Melan’s Qurutob, for a cup of coffee, walk over to Cafe Luni, and for dinner head to Dehli Darbar for great Indian food. If you need to stock up on anything head to the busy bazaar.

Plan your visit to Khorog:  The Khorog Travel Guide + 6 Things To Do

Gunt Valley

For those wanting to stay on the true Pamir Highway between Khorog and near Jelondy, this is the route. As you head out of Khorog you’ll pass a number of green orchard villages along the sky-blue Gunt River, with some of the most impressive mountain backdrops happening around Dehmyona.

For those wanting to trek the stunning lakes of Bachor, you’ll need to get a minibus to Shazud Village on the Pamir Highway (20 TJS, go to the main taxi stand by the Khorog Bazaar and start asking for Shazud). Once to Shazud ask around for a taxi to Bachor (should cost about 100-120 TJS). From Bachor, the hike takes off toward the east where you’ll eventually run into signs pointing you toward Zarojkul (north, to your left), or Yashilkul (east, straight forward).

To make the loop up to Langar Pass, Uchkul, Zarojkul, back down to Tsaxinkul, and back to Bachor plan for 5-7 days trekking. You can arrange guides and pack animals in Bachor.

Don’t forget to order Jan Bakker’s ebook,  Trekking in the Pamirs  for a detailed guide on reaching the Mountain Lakes of Bachor. Technically you’re supposed to have a Tajik National Park permit to trek around in this area.

The next attraction off the M41 after Shazud and Bachor is the hot springs at Jelondy. Jelondy is a popular weekend trip for people living in Khorog. Further east of Jelondy you will cross up and over the 4,272 meter Koi-Tezek Pass into moon-like landscapes.

There are some treks that can be done in the Koi-Tezek Pass area, including a summit of 5,700 meter Kyzyldong , one of a handful of non-technical summits you can find in the Pamir.

Further east of Koi-Tezek you will descend to the turn off for Bulunkul and Yashilkul, continuing a little further you will pass by Sassykul and the turnoff toward Khargush Pass and the Wakhan Valley. Continuing east will take you toward Alichur and on to Murghab.

Shokhdara Valley

The Shokhdara Valley runs nearly parallel and in between the more popular Wakhan Valley and Gunt Valley. If you want to explore a lesser-visited stretch of the Pamirs, this is it. Sites to check out along the valley include the ancient shrine in Tandem, the main town of Roshtaqala and the Red Fort it gains its name from, the beautiful lake of Durum Kul, views of Pik Engles & Pik Karl Marx, and up the tough Maisara Pass to rejoin the M41 near Jelondy.

Homestays are available along the valley at Vezdara, Sindev, Shohirizm, Javshanguz, and Bodomara. It is possible to make several treks from the Shokhdara Valley into either the Wakhan Valley or the Gunt Valley. I personally have not traveled along the Shokhdara Valley in my Tajikistan travels yet. For information on some of the treks between the Wakhan Valley and the Shokhdara Valley,  click here .

Little-visited but well worth the effort: Plan your traverse of the Shokhdara Valley

The much-talked-about Wakhan Valley is a highlight for many in their travels in Tajikistan. As you twist and turn down the Wakhan Valley road you’ll at times feel so close to the villagers walking the narrow dirt path on the Afghan side of the border just across the river that you could have a conversation with them (hint: you pretty much can!). And the backdrop of the white-capped Hindu Kush Mountains that form the Afghan-Pakistani border.

Popular stops along the Wakhan Valley include the largest village of the Tajik Wakhan Valley- Ishkashim, the Qaaqa Fortress near Namadgut, the trek up to Darshai Gorge, Yamchun Fortress and Bibi Fatima Hot Spring near the village of Vichkut, the Buddhist Stupa in Vrang, the adorable green village of Langar and finally the last scattering of houses up the hill at the village of Ratm.

A great trek to try in the Wakhan is the Pik Engles Meadow Hike that can be done from Zong to Langar or vise-versa.

If you’re planning to visit the Wakhan Valley, make sure and read my  Tajik Wakhan Valley Guide .

Before you go:  The Tajik Wakhan Valley Guide

Zorkul is a large lake and nature reserve that sits right on the Afghan border near to the Khargush Pass and Keng Shiber. You do need a Zorkul permit to visit which can be obtained at the  PECTA  office in Khorog. North of Zorkul back towards Shakhty are grand Neolithic cave paintings. There are several treks that can be done in the Zorkul area.

Bulunkul & Yashilkul

Bulunkul & Yashilkul sits 14 km north off the M41. Bulunkul is allegedly the coldest place in all of Tajikistan with winter temperatures that can drop below -40 C.

There are a couple of homestays in the small scattering of whitewashed buildings that comprise the village of Bulunkul. Bulunkul is still a good option to spend a night as sunrise on the lake is a sight to see with perfect reflections of the surrounding mountains. The wind usually picks up later in the morning, so you’ll want to get an early start for perfect reflections.

Another 4 km away sits Yashilkul which translates out to green lake. Yashilkul is much bigger than Bulunkul in size and the lake is more of a blue color than the green it’s named after. From Yashilkul it’s possible to trek to Langar Pass and the mountain lakes, or straight west to Bachor.

Technically you are supposed to have a Tajik National Park Permit for visiting Yashilkul, however, I’ve never been asked for it or seen a ranger out there.

If you’re traveling the Pamir Highway from Dushanbe, this is where you’ll notice things become more obviously Kyrgyz. Alichur is a village of several white-washed rectangular buildings just off the highway of predominantly Kyrgyz families. There are several guesthouses here marked with signs as well as stolvonaya- meaning canteen.

The locals in Alichur are really friendly and will likely come to hang out while you wander the village. There are many yurts that sit just off the highway around Alichur and along the highway nearby, and you’ll likely even see people out herding yaks in the pasture.

There is one guesthouse listed on  booking.com , but otherwise, there are several around the village. I personally have stayed at Rahima Doronshoeva Homestay (+992 908482612 or +992 931065658) when I spent a night in Alichur, and eaten a couple of times at the canteen on the east end of the village (it’s usually full of truckers headed down from Kashgar to Dushanbe).

I recommend spending the night in Alichur so that you can visit the nearby Ak-Balyk pond in the morning just east of Alichur. Ak-Balyk means white fish in Kyrgyz, the small pond is filled with unbelievably clear and turquoise water best viewed in the morning before the wind picks up and you can see perfect reflections of the mountains to the south dazzling in it.

Another highlight of Alichur is the great stargazing you’ll have right outside your guesthouse.

As far as must-see sights in Alichur there aren’t many. There is a mosque in the middle of the village, and there are a few treks that can be started from Alichur to Zorkul and toward the Bazardara Valley.

Jarty Gumbez, Keng Shiber, Kara Jilga & Bash Gumbez

To reach Jarty Gumbez, Keng Shiber, Kara Jilga & Bash Gumbez you will need your own transport (ie: 4×4 hire). Jarty Gumbez and Keng Shiber are Marco Polo sheep hunting camps that are possible to visit in the summer months (May-October).

Jarty Gumbez is located down a dusty dirt track south off the Pamir Highway at Povorot. Head south along the Afghan border between high altitude peaks to search for Marco Polo sheep (I saw hundreds of them out here). There is a very nice guesthouse at Jarty Gumbez with heated rooms and a hot spring, the family that runs the guesthouse and hunting camp, as well as the hunting guides that live out here, are incredibly friendly.

Keng Shiber is another hunting camp located just north of Zorkul, which can be reached from either the track that leads east from the Khargush Pass toward Zorkul and onto Shaimak or from the track that heads south from Bash Gumbez. Both Jarty Gumbez and Keng Shiber are great places to head for those wanting to photograph the milky way.

Nearby sites to Jarty Gumbez along the dirt tracks back toward the Shaimak-Murghab Road is the Ak Bura Meteor Crater, and the Shor Bulak observatory that is no longer in working order and allegedly closed to foreigners (I’ve been there and there was no one else there, and at that point, I did not know it was closed to foreigners).

Kara Jilga is another great place to head in this area. There is usually a yurt camp in the area with beautiful Wakhan scenery all around and the turquoise lakes of Kazankul & Jigitkul. West from Kara Jilga, you’ll have awesome views of Zorkul.

Read more in the  Eastern Pamir Travel Guide

Madiyan Valley

Madiyan Valley is reachable from the Pamir Highway, where you’ll head west down a dirt track just south of Murghab. There is a settlement named Ak Tal in the valley that has lush green sceneries and trees along the river. Continuing deeper into the valley you’ll eventually follow the Elisuu River toward the south to reach Madiyan hot springs .

It’s worth stopping briefly in the village of Ak Tal to ask which route to take to Madiyan Hot Springs. There’s a lower route that stays alongside the Elisuu River and a higher route that climbs high above the river when the water is running high. You will need to cross a scrap metal footbridge to cross the river and reach the hot spring.

For those looking for a trek, you can trek up and over the Gumbezkul Pass to connect with the Pshart Valley that is located just north of Murghab. Madiyan Valley sits within the Tajik National Park, so you are technically supposed to have a permit on you, but chances are you won’t run into a ranger out here, and if you do they’ll just ask for the day fee (18 TJS).

Check out my guides to both the Gumbezkul Pass Hike and to Madiyan Valley Hot Springs

Welcome to the wild wild east!  Murghab  is where those wanting to explore deeper into the eastern Pamir will base themselves. Murghab is set in a scenic valley, but the town itself is more utilitarian than it is attractive.

Somoni and Lenin are the two main streets through the town. There are a handful of guesthouses, the Pamir Hotel, and a chaikhana here. Don’t miss out on the shipping container bazaar in the heart of town. Both times I’ve arrived in Murghab I’ve stayed at Tulfabek Guesthouse (+992 935389159).

Make the most of your time in the east:  The Murghab Travel Guide

The draw to the Rangkul area is sand dunes, mountain desert landscapes, and salt lakes. There are yurt stays and guesthouses in Rangkul and it’s even possible to go camel trekking in the area. Rangkul is located northeast of Murghab near the Chinese border (north of the Qolma Pass), and there are shared taxis that depart in the last afternoon on most days from the bazaar in Murghab for around 30 TJS per seat.

Shaimak is pretty far off the beaten path. Most who visit Shaimak do so as an alternative to the Pamir Highway, but heading east from the Khargush Pass to Zorkul and Kara Jilga and then continuing east to the furthest southeast corner of Tajikistan- Shaimak.

Shaimak is a small village that sits below the impressive bluff of Ak Tash. Shaimak was of strategic importance during The Great Game when between 1830 and 1907 Britain and Russian vied for power in Central Asia. Shaimak was important because it was the one point you could be at and view western China, Afghanistan’s Little Pamir and across into Pakistan (back then British India).

North from Shaimak shortly before returning to Murghab are beehive-shaped tombs at Konyekurgon. You can take a detour off the Shaimak-Murghab road to visit the Ak Bura Crater, and Shor Bulak Observatory. There is a guesthouse in Shaimak, but note that to reach Shaimak it will likely be by 4×4 hire.

Pshart Valley

Pshart Valey swirls with color just north of Murghab. From the yurt camp in the Pshart Valley, it is possible to do the long day trek previously mentioned up the Gumbezkul Pass to connect with Madiyan Valley. You can grab a shared taxi out here from Murghab for about 100 TJS per seat. It is possible to continue west on foot in the Pshart Valley to eventually reach the Murghab River where it flows into Lake Sarez.

Pshart sits in the Tajik National Park, so you should have a permit on you.

Ak Baital Pass

Ak Baital means white horse in Kyrgyz and is the chosen name for this 4,655 meter pass. The pass looks like something out of this world, and also don’t be surprised to see it snow here- even in summer. This is also one of the best places to try and spot Marco Polo sheep from along the Pamir Highway, so make sure and stop to have a look for them.

Karakul  is usually the last stop for those headed for the Kyrgyz border at Kyzyl Art. Karakul is a massive lake just off the highway caused by a meteor impact.

There is a small village on the east shore of the lake of the same name where it’s possible to grab a meal or spend the night in a guesthouse. South of Karakul it’s possible to follow jeep tracks toward Kök Jar where you can link back up to the Bartang Highway and descend to Gudara. Read up more on  what to do during your stay in Karakul .

If you’re spending any time around Karakul and you’re looking for a good warm-up hike, check out the Aral Yuj (South Aral Peak) day hike .

Plan your visit:  The Karakul Travel Guide

Sughd Region

The Sughd region is located in northwestern Tajikistan and is centered around the ancient Sogdiana Civilization. The Sughd Region is a bit wealthier than the remainder of Tajikistan as the Fann Mountains helped create a natural barrier that protected them from the 1990’s Tajik Civil War that ravaged much of the country.

Khujand  is Tajikistan’s second-largest city situated in the Tajik Fergana Valley. Most who end up in Khujand are traveling either to/from Kyrgyzstan or Uzbekistan as the three borders gnarl together here.

Sites to check out in Khujand include Panjshanbe Bazaar, Sheikh Massal ad-Din Mausoleum & Complex, the ancient Citadel & Kamoli Khujandi Park, and the tallest Lenin Statue still standing in Central Asia. There are a number of chaikhanas around town to grab a meal and quite a few hotels and hostels which you can book  here .

If you’re looking for some awesome day trip from Khujand, I’d definitely recommend visiting the former uranium mines at Taboshar as well as the blinding white Akhkon Salt Flat in Asht District.

Plan your time in Khujand:  Khujand Travel Guide + 14 Things To Do

Istaravshan

Istaravshan  is a 90 minute shared taxi away from Khujand and a great place to stop off for a couple of hours or a day to break up the drive time between Khujand and Pankjakent or Dushanbe.

Make sure and visit Mug Teppe, Shahr-e-Kuhna, Hazra i Shah Mosque, Hauz i Sangin Mosque, Sary Mazar, Chor Gumbez, and Abdullatif Sultan Madrasa before you leave. Many of these sites are smaller and less impressive, yet similar to what you would see in the more famous and more crowded Silk Road cities across the Uzbek border. Shared taxis from Khujand will cost 15 TJS per person.

Don’t miss anything:  The Istaravshan Travel Guide + 8 Things To Do

The main reason people head to  Panjakent  is that it’s the jumping-off point to the  Haft Kul  and the  Lakes Loop Trek  in the  Fann Mountains .

Panjakent does have a few attractions in itself including Ancient Panjakent Archeological Site, Rudaki Museum, Olim Dodkhokh Mosque & Madrasa, the Panjakent Bazaar, the Devastitch Statue, and a golden Lenin Statue.

There are a handful of hotels and guesthouses in Panjakent, I personally recommend  Salom Hostel . For transport to Khujand, Istaravshan, the Haft Kul, Artuch, Dushanbe and Samarkand taxis leave from taxi stands not far from the bazaar. Just ask around the bazaar and you will get pointed to which one you need to head to.

If you’re planning to cross the border between Panjakent and Samarkand, read  this post  first.

Make the most of your Panjakent visit:  The Panjakent Travel Guide + 5 Things To Do

Panjrud is located off the main road to Panjakent on the way to Artuch Base Camp. Panjrud is important because it is the village that Rudaki the famous Persian poet was born. There is a mausoleum dedicated to Rudaki in the middle of Panjrud. Check  booking.com  for guesthouses in Panjrud.

The Haft Kul is a string of seven beautiful lakes that vary in color from light turquoise to nearly black. This is the easiest trekking to access in Tajikistan and can even be done as a day trip from Panjakent.

The road goes all the way to the 6th lake, making the only lake reachable by foot only the 7th lake of Hazorchashma. Many will spend 2-3 days trekking here getting dropped off near the village of Shing and trekking down to the 7th lake and back.

There is a homestay ran by the friendly Jumaboy and family called Najmidden Homestay near Nofin Lake.

You can make an alternate trek starting from the village of Mogiyon to the west of the Haft Kul, hiking down to Rogich Village and then up and over the Komichura Pass to reach the 6th Lake (Marguzor) in the Haft Jul and then trek back to the first lake.

Additionally, from the west shore of Marguzor, you can trek to Kiogli Village and then over Tavasang Pass to either head toward Artuch, Chimtarga Pass, or Kaznok Pass to the Lakes Loop Trek, or to the Dukdon Pass to continue to  Iskanderkul .

Make sure and have your passport and e-visa handy as they will be checked at the checkpoint near Shing. Read more on trekking in the Haft Kul in my  Haft Kul Travel Guide .

Plan your  trek in the Haft Kul

The Fann Mountains are stunningly beautiful and home to the gorgeous lakes of Alovaddin, Kulikalon,  Bolshoi Allo ,  Iskanderkul , and many more. There are several routes that can be taken leading you to these lakes, as well as beautiful valleys and rivers.

For those more serious into mountaineering, there are a few 5,000 meter + peaks in this range, the tallest being Gora Chimtarga. Read more about trekking in the Fanns in my  Fann Mountains Travel Guide .

Read:  The Ultimate Guide to the Fann Mountains

Yagnob Valley & Margib

The  Yagnob Valley  is much less visited by foreigners than the Fanns and the Haft Kul but is equally as interesting. The Yagnob Valley is home to several remote settlements of people who still live traditionally as they have for hundreds of years and even still speak the ancient Sogdian language.

Margib is the main village and jumping point into the Yagnob Valley. Shared taxis are available from Sarvoda on most days as the Yagnobi traders that come down from Margib will be returning home, seats usually run about 60 TJS, but usually, it’s easier to charter the entire car from the Sarvoda Bazaar for 300 TJS.

Read more and plan your trip to the  Yagnob Valley

Ayni isn’t much of a stop in itself as it is the main transport hub for those headed into the eastern Zeravshan Valley. There is an ATM here for those hoping to withdraw cash and a mosque that may be of interest.

Sarvoda isn’t a site itself, much like Ayni. The main reason you would be here is to grab a shared taxi bound for either Margeb & the Yagnob Valley, Iskanderkul, or Vertical Alovaddin Base Camp.

There is a guesthouse here called Mehmonkhona Yazdon if you end up getting stuck here overnight. There is a chaikhana just outside of Sarvoda that is painted green and has outdoor seating right along the main highway that sells great laghman.

Khatlon Region

The Khatlon region makes up the southwestern corner of Tajikistan. Khatlon can get dreadfully hot in the summertime. The best time of year to visit the Khatlon area is in springtime.

Qurgonteppa

Qurgonteppa is a city situated in the southwest of Tajikistan, about two hours by bus or shared taxi from Dushanbe. The main attractions to check out in Qurgonteppa include the Chiluchor Sacred Spring, the Ajina-Teppa Buddhist Monastery, and the Mausoleum & Museum of Bibikhonum. Learn how to get to  Qurgonteppa and more here .

Yahksu Valley, Sary Khosar Nature Reserve & Childukhtaron Reserve

These three areas offer some truly off-the-beaten-path experiences in Tajikistan and offer a taste of rural Tajik lifestyle.

Sary Khosar is reachable by heading north of Kulab to Baljuvon where you can either arrange a UAZ (500 TJS) or wait with the locals for the “Machina Kalon”, an old Gaz-66 (20 TJS per person) that trundles up and down Sary Khosar Valley a couple of times a day.

Childukhtaron is probably the most well-known of these three destinations as it is a popular Tajik vacay spot. You can reach Childukhtaron by heading north of Kulab to Muminobad where you can begin arranging transport. A windy mountain road also connects Baljuvon to Childukhtaron which I recommend if you’re visiting in early summer and have your own transport (the rolling green hills of Khatlon between Baljuvon and Childukhtaron reminded me of being in parts of Italy).

A little further north, the Yakhsu Valley which can tie you to Tavildara along the Northern Pamir Highway Route can be accessed through a town by the name of Khovaling.

Read more about the Yakhsu Valley, Sar i Khosar, and Childukhtaron  here .

Kulab is Tajikistan’s third-largest city The biggest attractions here are to stock up at the massive bazaar before heading out on the Pamir Highway and the Shrine to Mir Said Ali Hamadani.

Visiting Hulbuk Fortress in Pingan can be done as a day trip from Dushanbe or as a stop along your Pamir Highway adventure, as it is very close to Kulob. The main attraction is, of course, the 11th-century Hulbuk Fortress. Read up on how to get to  Hulbuk in this post here .

Trekking In Tajikistan

Tajikistan is a dream for trekkers and mountaineers. There are far too many treks to mention in this already forever-long guide. To learn more about trekking in the country check out the following posts:

• The 10 Best Treks in Tajikistan
• The Fann Mountains Guide
• Trekking The Haft Kul In Tajikistan’s Fann Mountains
• A Guide to the Lakes Loop, Fann Mountains

Crossing Chimtarga Pass

• A Guide to Bolshoi Allo Lake in the Fann Mountains
• A Quick Guide to Iskanderkul & Sarytag
• The Trek to Timur Dara Lake in the Southern Fanns
• Crossing Dukdon Pass
• Yagnob Trekking & Travel Guide
• The Lakes Loop
• The Yagnob Valley  Trekking & Travel Guide
• The Jizeu Trek, the Best Overnight Trek in the Pamirs
• How To Get To Lake Sarez
• How To Get To The Khafrazdara Valley & Grum Grijmailo Glacier
• Trekking Over Gardan i Kaftar Pass from the Rasht Valley
• The Gumbezkul Pass Hike from Pshart to Madiyan Valley
• The South Aral Peak Hike neay Karakul
• A Trek to Pik Engles Meadow

The Tajik Wakhan Valley Travel Guide

• The Pamir Highway Guide

Looking for more ideas? Read the  10 best treks in Tajikistan

Tajik Festivals

There is no shortage of festivals in Tajikistan. There are many that are only celebrated in one particular village and others that are celebrated nationwide. Here are a few to list:

• Nowruz – This is the Persian New Year that usually falls March 20-21 each year. The day is marked by celebrations all over the country.
• Sayri Guli Lola Festival – Held in spring just after Navruz typically. The festival celebrates springtime and the tulips it brings with it. The song Naqshi Kalon is commonly played and celebrations usually include choirs, traditional music, and dancing.
• Victory Day – Celebrated on May 9 each year marking the Soviet defeat of the Germans in 1946 during WWII. The largest celebration happens at Victory Park in Dushanbe.
• Ruz i Nour – Held on May 25, celebrated by Ismailis to commemorate the current Aga Khan’s first visit to the GBAO in 1992.
• Imamat Day – Celebrated by Ismailis in the Badakhshan on July 11 each year. Commemorates the anniversary of the current Aga Khan taking over the Imamat of the Ismaili.
• Roof Of The World Festival – Held in Late July in Khorog each year celebrating Pamiri traditions & culture. Features music, dancing, and artwork from across the GBAO region.
• Roof Of The World Regatta – Held at the end of July, this sailing competition takes place on lake Karakul. There are hopes to get Karakul marked the official highest navigable body of water in the world, beating out Lake Titicaca.
• At Chabysh – Held in late July to early August each year near Murghab. The festival is centered around horse games but also includes craft & art exhibits and yurts.
• Eid al Qurban – Eid al-Qurban or ‘Feast of the Sacrifice’ is a huge holiday in Tajikistan as well as the rest of the Muslim world as it marks the end of the Hajj. The dates of Eid al-Qurban do float around year to year, but the holiday is usually celebrated in mid-August to mid-September. If you are in Tajikistan on the 3 days Eid al- Qurban is celebrated, you may very well be invited by a complete stranger to their family celebrations. On my first visit to Tajikistan, I was wondering the streets of Dushanbe trying to find a good place to grab lunch when an older man walked to me and asked what time it was ( in Russian ). I responded ‘Sechas chas’ ( one o’clock ). He then told me I looked hungry and grabbed my arm and walked me down a street, down an alleyway (um, am I being kidnapped?!) that finally opened up into a courtyard. The man’s entire family that came from all over Dushanbe and the surrounding communities was there. The whole family then proceeded to feast for about the next 6 hours, setting plate after plate out that we dug into. His family members only spoke Russian and Tajik (my Russian was fairly limited and my Tajik was minimal back then) so one of his sisters called her cousin who was going to university in Khorog who spoke English and acted as a translator to fill the gaps in my Russian capabilities. This is why I love Tajiks, some of the friendliest and fun people in the world.
• Independence Day – Celebrated September 9th each year, marking Tajikistan’s 1991 Independence from the Soviet Union. Independence Day is celebrated nationwide and usually includes parades, concerts, and fireworks.
• Ruz i Mavlud – The Aga Khan’s birthday, celebrated on December 13.

Tajikistan Travel & Tour Operators

Tajik companies offering tours within the country.

• Paramount Journey  Offers some of the best itineraries around Tajikistan and staff are extremely knowledgeable.
• Pamir Guides  Ran by the friendly and kind Saidali (he’s helped me out of a number if binds in the country!). Can arrange travel to both Pamirs and Fanns.
• Unique Pamir Started in 2018 by the amazing Zhandiya (she is a wealth of knowledge on the Pamirs!), Unique Pamirs offers a number itineraries in Tajikistan as well as the Afghan Wakhan, Kyrgyzstan, and Uzbekistan.
• Women Rockin’ Pamirs  First female guides in Tajikistan! Started by French NGO to get Tajik women into the guiding business. Offering trekking tours of the Pamirs.
• Discover The Pamirs  Specializing in trips in the Tajik Pamir and Bartang Valley, ran by the wonderful Saidmamad.
• Pamir Highway Adventure  Offers trips to both Pamir and Fanns.
• Tour De Pamir  Agency offering guided Pamir trekking.
• Sarez Travel  Specializes in Lake Sarez travel as well as the Pamirs and Fanns.
• Bartang & Sarez Tours  Specializes in the Bartang Valley including Lake Sarez and Khafrazdara Valley.
• Badakhshan Travel  Specializes in the Pamirs and GBAO.
• Discovery Tajikistan  Agency offering tours all over the country.

Western & Foreign Based Companies Offering Tours In  Tajikistan 

• G Adventures  Offering overlanding adventures that include Tajikistan, as well as itineraries continuing through or coming from other ‘Stans including Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, and China. Most range from 6 to 23 days.
• Intrepid Travel  Another popular overlanding style tour company. Offering a 13 day tour from Bishkek to Dushanbe including the Pamir Highway.
• Mir Corp  US based company offering trips to Tajikistan in addition to trips they lead all over the former USSR and Balkans.
• AdvanTour  Tour company that specializes in Central Asia tours, as well as areas of the former Soviet Union.

Tajikistan Travel Budget

Traveling Tajikistan on a budget isn’t too difficult to accomplish, however, it’s not as cheap as backpacker meccas of Southeast Asia or Central America. Here are three different tiers of travel style budgets (these estimates are per person):

285 TJS/$25 USD Per Day

Staying in dorms & homestays, eating at the bazaar & chaikhanas, traveling by marshrutka & sometimes shared taxi, and trekking unguided.

570 TJS/$50 USD Per Day Per Day

Staying in decent double rooms & homestays in rural areas, eating at chaikhanas & international restaurants, traveling by shared taxi or splitting the cost of car & driver hire with other travelers, and going on an occasional guided trek.

1140 TJS/ $100 USD Per Day

Sleeping in luxury hotels in cities & homestays in rural areas, eating at international restaurants when in cities and chaikhanas when in the rural, traveling by private car hire, taking guided and fully supported treks including equipment, porters, and meals.

My personal budget when averaged out over my first trip in Tajikistan averaged  750 TJS ($81 USD)/day (including the Pamir Highway)-  I, of course, did not travel Tajikistan on the tightest budget- this was my dream destination so paying a little more to do what I truly wanted to do on my timeframe was worth it in my eyes (I did hire my own driver on the Pamir Highway). However, you can do this trip for a hell of a lot cheaper than this. Little did I know that I would return every year.

In 2017 my budget (excluding my private tour to Lake Sarez) averaged less than 180 TJS ($20 USD)/day-  On my second trip to Tajikistan, I traveled by marshrutka & shared taxi everywhere I went and stayed in hostel dorms & homestays. Plus I spent nearly two months in Tajikistan so I didn’t have much on time restraints.

Tajikistan Travel Packing List

Trekking & Camping Gear

• Inreach Explorer+ – GPS & SOS beacon, that can also send and receive text messages. Delorme/Garmin offers some good monthly plans when in use.
• Solar charger – To keep electronics charged in remote areas.
• External battery pack – Great in a pinch when batteries are dead and you’re in the middle of nowhere.
• Backpack – I recommend the  Osprey Ariel 65L backpack  for women.
• Daypack – My personal favorite is the Osprey Hikelite Plus.
• Hydration Pack – Have water available without having to reach for a water bottle.
• 3 Season tent – I use the  MSR NX Hubba-Hubba solo tent  when I’m traveling alone and love it! I also use a Mountainsmith Morrison Evo 2 tent for when I’m traveling with others.
• Sleeping bag – Useful for trekkers & cyclists. I use a  Nemo sleeping bag  cold rated to 15 F/-5 C.
• Hiking Boots – My personal favorite is the  La Sportiva Nucleo High GTX  hiking boot.
• Lightweight cooking camp set – For trekkers and cyclists that plan to prepare their own meals.
• Water Purifier – I personally use the  Katadyn water filter . Tap water in the entire country is unsafe for drinking and natural water sources can be contaminated.
• Trekking Poles – Useful for the steep scree slopes and river crossings you may encounter.
• Headlamp – Useful while camping, and for the usual power outages, you’ll have in Murghab and other rural areas.
• Sunscreen – Don’t let the cold fool you, the sun is still powerful, especially at high elevations.
• Mosquito Repellant – Recommended in the summertime especially in the Khatlon Region & around Karakul.
• Prescription & Over the counter medications
• Tajikistan and the High Pamirs  by Robert Middleton & Hue Thomas. This is a huge book, but it has so much good info on Tajikistan from the history, great-game stories, travel information, and more.
• Bradt Guide Tajikistan  by Sophie Ibbotson. Probably my top pick for guidebooks on the country.
• Central Asia  by Lonely Planet. Handy to have with you, although don’t necessarily treat it like a bible. Things rapidly change and the currency can fluctuate so it’s not always dead-on, however, the new book for 2018 just released in June. The  Central Asia Phrasebook  by Lonely Planet I found this to be a handy item for Tajik, Russian and Kyrgyz phrases, not so much for the Wakhi phrase section.
• Trekking In Tajikistan by Jan Bakker & Christine Oriol. The much anticipated and hugely updated print version of Jan’s ebook. Jan has become a friend over the years and along with Christine have led trekking expeditions in the Pamirs, Fann, and the Wakhan Corridor in Afghanistan.
• The Pamirs Map  by Markus Hauser
• Northern Tajikistan Map  by Gecko Maps
• Southern Tajikistan Map  by Gecko Maps
• Fann Mountains Map  by EWP (can be ordered direct from  EWP  as well)

Great Online Tajikistan Travel Resources

• Pamirs.org : A great all-around resource for all things Pamir. From trekking, visa & permit information, cycling, sport, and more.
• Trekking in the Pamirs : Jan Bakker’s website with information on many hikes all over Tajikistan (not just the Pamirs!).
• ZTDA : Zeravshan Tourism Development Association. Munira & Jamshed are very knowledgable about trekking, cultural experiences, handcrafts, and more in the Zerafshan, Fann Mountains, and Yagnob Valley. Office located in Kamoli Khujandi Park in Khujand.
• PECTA : Pamir Eco-Cultural Tourism Association. Zhendaya who is often working in the office in the City Park in Khorog is very helpful. Can arrange just about anything for the Pamir and can arrange guides and/or porters.
• Trekking In The Pamirs : Jan Bakker’s website with information on trekking in Tajikistan.
• Monk Bought Lunch : Travel blog by Stephen Lioy who has been based in Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan for a few years now.
• Indy Guide : Making travel in the whole of Central Asia & Mongolia easier by providing the largest community marketplace of Central Asian tour operators and drivers.

Internet & Mobile

Tajikistan now offers tourist sim cards to travelers. You can get one from the Dushanbe Airport or at a Tcell or Megafone shop. The only downside is that the sim cards are only active for 10 days at a time. Once the 10 days are up you will have no service at all until you go into a shop and provide a copy of your passport, visa, and a registration slip from your accommodation (ask your hotel/hostel/etc for one).

In Dushanbe, you’ll have LTE coverage, outside it’ll range from 3G to nothing at all.

When I visited Tajikistan in 2016 social media apps like Facebook, Instagram & Twitter were all blocked, so I had to download a VPN in order to use them. When I returned in 2017 this was not the case, so know that some websites could be blocked at any time without any notice.

Tajikistan Travel Health & Safety

In general, Tajikistan is a safe country to visit. Of course, Tajikistan has had occasional incidents over the years but the vast majority of visitors depart the country unscathed.

The most common afflictions travelers encounter in Tajikistan are food poisoning/stomach upset and altitude sickness.

For tips and tricks to stay safe and healthy in Tajikistan, read my Tajikistan Safety Guide .

Any Questions On Tajikistan Travel?

Ask your Tajikistan travel questions in the comments below.

More Posts from Tajikistan:

Ishkashim Border Crossing Between Tajikistan & Afghanistan

Khujand Travel Guide + 14 Things to Do In Khujand

The Best Restaurants In Dushanbe

Fann Mountains Trekking Expedition, Tajikistan June 12-23, 2024

12 Day Pamir Highway Expedition June 25-July 6, 2024

25 Day Tajikistan Expedition June 12-July 6, 2024

Two Week Tajikistan & Uzbekistan Itinerary

Trekking The Haft Kul in Tajikistan’s Fann Mountains

Tajikistan Itinerary For 1-4 Weeks

Must-Try Tajik Food: Best Food in Tajikistan

A Guide To Tajikistan’s Fann Mountains

The 10 Best Hikes In Tajikistan

Panjakent Travel Guide + 6 Things To Do In Panjakent, Tajikistan

17 Things To Do In Tajikistan

A Beginner’s Guide To Central Asia Travel: Discover The Silk Road

Panjakent-Samarkand Border Crossing Between Tajikistan & Uzbekistan

Rasht Valley, Tajikistan

How to Cross the Shirkhan Bandar Border Crossing Between Tajikistan & Afghanistan and get an Afghan Visa on the Border

The Gardan i Kaftar Hike In Tajikistan’s Rasht Valley

A Day Trip To The Taboshar Uranium Mines in Istiklol, Tajikistan

A Day Trip to Madiyan Hot Springs, Tajikistan 

Windswept Desolation In Karakul, Tajikistan

Gumbezkul Pass Hike, Tajikistan 

Murghab Travel Guide + 4 Things To Do In Murghab, Tajikistan

The Beautiful Bolshoi Allo Lake In Tajikistan’s Fann Mountains

Sarazm Ruins, Tajikistan: The Oldest City in Central Asia

How To Get To Khafrazdara Valley, Tajikistan

Qala i Khumb Travel Guide, Tajikistan

A Giant Salt Flat in Tajikistan? Welcome to Akhkon

How To Get To Timur Dara Lake, Tajikistan

A Guide to the Shokhdara Valley, Tajikistan

How To Get To Lake Sarez, Tajikistan

Trekking to Pik Engles Meadow in Tajikistan’s Wakhan Valley

Across Tajikistan In 80 Photos

Climbing Kyzyldong in Tajikistan’s Pamir Mountains 

How To Get To Hisor Fort, Tajikistan

Crossing Kyzyl Art Pass Between Tajikistan & Kyrgyzstan

Tajikistan Border Crossings

Khorog Travel Guide + 7 Things To Do In Khorog

Is Tajikistan Safe? The Short Answer: Yes

Solo female travel in tajikistan.

Tajikistan Visa Guide: How to Get a Tajik Visa

Istaravshan Travel Guide + 9 Things To Do In Istaravshan

Jizeu Trek: Tajikistan’s Best Overnight Hike In The Pamirs

10 Reasons to Visit The Pamirs

The Best Road Trips In The World

A Simple Guide To Central Asia Visas

Yagnob Valley Trekking & Travel Guide

Iskanderkul & Sarytag Travel Guide, Tajikistan

Hike The Lakes Loop in Tajikistan’s Fann Mountains

10 Things To Do In Dushanbe + Dushanbe Travel Guide

Crossing The Qolma Pass Between Tajikistan & China

The Ultimate Guide To The Pamir Highway

10 reasons to visit tajikistan.

7 Tips For Solo Female Travel In Central Asia

A 10 Day Pamir Highway Itinerary including the Wakhan Valley

Bartang Valley Guide

Crossing Dukdon Pass In Tajikistan’s Fann Mountains

South Aral Peak Hike, Tajikistan

Visiting the Sary Khosar Nature Reserve, Tajikistan 

How to Visit Childukhtaron, Tajikistan

Eastern Pamir Travel Guide

10 Off The Beaten Path Destinations For 2021

Travel with Me to China, Tajikistan and Pakistan in 2018!

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Introducing Tajikistan

About tajikistan.

• Images of Tajikistan
• History, language & culture
• Weather & geography
• Doing business & staying in touch

Plan your trip

• Travel to Tajikistan
• Where to stay

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Tajikistan travel guide

Following in the footsteps of ancient Silk Road traders, modern travellers come to Tajikistan to experience a magical journey across the ‘Roof of the World,’ a land of soaring mountain ranges, deep ravines and high-altitude deserts.

Although Tajikistan is one of the most remote countries in the world, even its most inaccessible nooks host life; the mountains and deserts are home to Kyrgyz nomads, who eke out simple, self-sufficient lives as they have done for generations. Intrepid travellers will endure some of the coldest temperatures on the planet to visit them, but these chilly conditions are tempered by the Kyrgyz’s warm hospitality.

An independent state since 1991, Tajikistan spent much of the last two centuries under Tsarist and Soviet rule. Ethnic Tajiks form the majority of the population, but there are also minority ethnic groups of Russian, Uzbek and Kyrgyz origin – a mix brought about by Stalin’s “divide and conquer” strategy.

Tajikistan’s landscapes are just as dramatic as its political history. In the mountainous west, lofty peaks plunge into deep valleys where villages cling precariously to the cliffs-side above fast flowing rivers. In these settlements, where most of the population are subsidence farmers, any available patch of land is terraced and cultivated with potatoes, cabbage and wheat.

Over in the east, the mountains plateau into a vast, high-altitude desert that looks like the surface of the moon. This is a hostile part of the world, as Marco Polo noted when he travelled through the region. “No birds fly here because of the height and the cold,” he wrote.

Most arrive in Tajikistan via its capital, Dushanbe, one of the prettier cities in Central Asia with its gilded palaces, leafy parks and neoclassical facades. Emerging from the shadows of Soviet rule, Dushanbe is desperate to impress; it boasts the largest teahouse and tallest flagpole in the world, which are, aside from a few museums and markets, about the extent of its attractions.

But Tajikistan isn’t about the destination, it’s about the journey; a journey through history and geography, where warm a welcome awaits those intrepid enough to visit.

143,100 sq km (55,251 sq miles).

8,669,464 (UN estimate 2016).

57.2 per sq km.

President Emomali Rahmon since 1994.

Prime Minister Qohir Rasulzoda since 2013.

Travel Advice

The Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office ( FCDO ) provides advice about risks of travel to help British nationals make informed decisions. Find out more about FCDO travel advice .

Before you travel

No travel can be guaranteed safe. Read all the advice in this guide and see support for British nationals abroad for information about specific travel topics.

Follow and contact FCDO travel on Twitter , Facebook and Instagram . You can also sign up to get email notifications when this advice is updated.

Travel insurance

If you choose to travel, research your destinations and get appropriate travel insurance . Insurance should cover your itinerary, planned activities and expenses in an emergency.

This advice reflects the UK government’s understanding of current rules for people travelling on a full ‘British citizen’ passport from the UK, for the most common types of travel.

The authorities in Tajikistan set and enforce entry rules. If you’re not sure how these requirements apply to you, contact the Tajik Embassy in the UK .

COVID-19 rules

There are no COVID-19 testing or vaccination requirements for travellers entering Tajikistan.

Passport validity requirements

If you’re visiting Tajikistan, your passport must have an ‘expiry date’ at least 3 months after the date you arrive and have 2 blank pages.

Check with your travel provider that your passport and other travel documents meet requirements. Renew your passport if you need to.

You will be denied entry if you do not have a valid travel document or try to use a passport that has been reported lost or stolen.

Visa requirements

You must have a visa to enter or travel through Tajikistan.

If you overstay your visa, you will not be allowed to leave Tajikistan until you get an exit visa. You can pay for an exit visa at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs Consular Office. You may also get a fine, depending on how long you have overstayed. Exit visas are not available at airports in Tajikistan.  

Applying for a visa

Apply online for an e-visa from the Tajikistan Ministry of Foreign Affairs.

Make sure you get the correct type of visa.  Once you’re in Tajikistan, you can apply for a visa extension at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs .

Travelling through Tajikistan

You must have a transit visa to travel through Tajikistan on your way to another country. These are usually valid for 3 days. If you need to stay longer, you must get a longer visa from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs once you arrive.

Registering with the authorities

If you are staying in Tajikistan for longer than 10 days, you must register with the Office for Registration of Foreign Citizens (OVIR) located at 5 Mirzo Tursunzoda Street, Dushanbe. Hotels are no longer permitted to complete the registration on your behalf. If you later stay at different addresses, you must register again separately.

If you do not follow the registration procedure, you may not be allowed to leave Tajikistan until your registration process is resolved. This may result in fines or detention. There have been cases where lack of registration has resulted in detention at Dushanbe airport.

Travel permit for the Gorno-Badakhshan Region

You must get a permit, in addition to a Tajik visa, to travel to the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region. If you’re in the UK, contact the Tajik Embassy to apply for a permit before you travel. If you’re in Tajikistan, contact the Consular Department of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs .  

The Tajikistan government sometimes stops issuing permits to tourists at short notice due to security concerns. The Tajik Embassy can tell you whether the government is issuing permits for travel to the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region.

Travel permit for the Khatlon Region

You must get a permit, in addition to a Tajik visa, to travel to the areas bordering Afghanistan in the Khatlon Region, including Panj and Kumsangir. Apply for a permit from the Consular Department of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in Dushanbe before you travel.

Vaccination requirements

At least 8 weeks before your trip, check the vaccinations and certificates you need in TravelHealthPro’s Tajikistan guide .

HIV screening

If you plan to stay for more than 90 days, you must show a medical certificate that you’re HIV-free or take a test. FCDO advises against taking the test in Tajikistan due to the poor quality of medical facilities.

Customs rules

There are strict rules about goods you can take into or out of Tajikistan. You must declare anything that may be prohibited or subject to tax or duty.

There is a high threat of terrorist attack globally affecting UK interests and British nationals, including from groups and individuals who view the UK and British nationals as targets. Stay aware of your surroundings at all times.   

UK Counter Terrorism Policing has information and advice on staying safe abroad and what to do in the event of a terrorist attack. Find out how to reduce your risk from terrorism while abroad .

Terrorism in Tajikistan

Terrorists are very likely to try and carry out attacks in Tajikistan.

Attacks could be indiscriminate and occur at any time, including in places frequented by foreign nationals, such as:  

• transport hubs 
• religious sites and places of worship  
• sporting and cultural events  
• shopping centres and crowded places

Examples of previous significant attacks include:

In 2019, it was reported that 17 people were killed in an armed attack on a Tajik security checkpoint on the Tajikistan-Uzbekistan border. Islamic State Khorasan Province (ISKP) claimed responsibility

There are infrequent incursions by armed criminal and terrorist groups across the Afghanistan Border into Tajikistan, mainly at night. In August 2023, 3 terrorists were reportedly killed by Tajik border forces

Political situation

Avoid any demonstrations or large gatherings of people and remain vigilant in public places. Be alert to any security announcements by the Tajik authorities.     

Protecting your belongings

Dushanbe is relatively safe, but there have been occasional muggings and petty crime against foreigners. Take the same precautions you would in the UK.

Rape and sexual assault

There have been cases of sexual assault, including rape, reported to the British Embassy. This includes suspected use of ‘date rape’ drugs targeting foreigners. Alcohol and drugs can lead to you being less alert, less in control and less aware of your environment. You should:

• not leave drinks unattended
• not accept drinks from strangers
• be aware of how much you are drinking
• not accept lifts from strangers or acquaintances at any time

Intimidation at Dushanbe International Airport

There have been cases of harassment by officials at Dushanbe International Airport. This includes requests for payment for allegedly incorrect documentation or other offences. Check with your hotel that your documentation and papers are in order before passing through border control at the airport. If you’re harassed or intimidated, report it to your travel agent or the consular bureau at the airport.

Laws and cultural differences

Tajikistan has a secular constitution. (A secular state claims to treat all its citizens equally regardless of religion.) Most Tajik citizens are Muslims. Some, particularly in rural areas, may be conservative in outlook. Be aware of local traditions, customs, laws and religions at all times.

Personal ID

Always carry a copy of your passport’s photo page, as officials often ask for ID. You can present a copy rather than an original passport if a police officer asks you on the street.

Smoking ban

Although rarely enforced, smoking while walking on the street is illegal and punishable by a fine.

Illegal drugs and prison sentences

Possession and use of drugs is illegal. If found guilty, you could get a lengthy prison sentence in very basic conditions.

Woman travelling alone

Women travelling alone in Tajikistan may receive unwanted attention, harassment or difficulties based on gender. Consider not going out alone at night. See advice for women travelling abroad .

Using cameras in secure areas

Taking photos of anything related to the military or security may get you into trouble with the authorities.

LGBT+ travellers

Same-sex sexual activity is not illegal under Tajik law. However, local attitudes are conservative and the levels of tolerance and acceptance in society may vary, particularly outside the main cities. Take care about showing affection in public. Read more advice for LGBT+ travellers .

Tajikistan is mainly a cash-only economy. Very few businesses accept credit cards and none accept travellers cheques.

Only change money at officially authorised currency exchanges. US dollars are the most widely accepted foreign currency. Euros or Russian roubles are also easy to exchange. It may be difficult to exchange other currencies.

There is an increasing number of ATMs in Dushanbe and other larger towns, but none in rural areas. Most ATMs only accept Visa cards.

Transport risks

Road travel.

If you are planning to drive in Tajikistan, see information on driving abroad .

You’ll need to have both the 1968 version of the international driving permit ( IDP ) and your UK driving licence with you in the car. You cannot buy an IDP outside the UK, so get one before you travel.

Driving standards

Vehicles in Tajikistan are often poorly maintained and driving standards are basic. Petrol stations are rare outside towns and there are no breakdown companies. Make sure you take all you need for your journey and allow for delays. Consider bringing a satellite phone for travel outside towns to use in an emergency. Neighbouring countries may close borders temporarily.

Roads outside the main towns are poorly maintained and often only accessible by 4-wheel-drive vehicles. Conditions are particularly dangerous in spring due to the risk of avalanches and landslides.

Many interior roads are only open in the summer months. It is possible to drive from Dushanbe to the north and Tajikistan’s second city, Khujand, using a tunnel. This road is particularly dangerous in winter due to icy conditions. Drivers can be trapped for a long time if caught in an avalanche due to the remote location.

Flooding in the spring and winter often damages and closes roads in areas of the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region and other parts of the country. Many roads, including the Pamir Highway, are open but not fully repaired.

In 2022, the UK sanctioned Aeroflot, Rossiya Airlines and Ural Airlines. It is now illegal under UK law for any British national or British company to do business with these airlines. This includes the purchasing of flight tickets.

Extreme weather and natural disasters

Earthquakes.

Earthquakes are a risk in Tajikistan. Most are small and affect remote areas of the country, particularly the east in the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region. Avalanches and landslides often block roads in the spring and early summer. Learn earthquake safety procedures and follow the advice of the local authorities. The US Federal Emergency Management Agency website has advice about what to do before, during and after an earthquake .

In late spring and summer, there can be seasonal flooding and mudslides caused by melting glaciers. Take care, follow local advice and be aware that conditions can change suddenly.

Heavy snowfall in winter can cause delays and cancellations at airports and disrupt travel, particularly in mountainous regions where there’s an increased risk of avalanches. Take local advice on road conditions during or following severe weather.

This section has safety advice for regions of Tajikistan. It only covers regions where FCDO has specific advice.

You should also read FCDO ’s overall travel advice and safety and security advice .  

Tajikistan-Kyrgyzstan border

The land border with Kyrgyzstan remains officially closed.

There is a risk of conflict over recognition of Tajikistan’s border with Kyrgyzstan. There are regular security incidents along the border with exchanges of gunfire.

In September 2022, armed conflict between the Kyrgyz and Tajik militaries resulted in over 100 deaths, including civilians. There was significant destruction of civilian property and infrastructure. Around 140,000 civilians were displaced. There is a risk of further violence and border closures at any time. Do not walk off-road – there are both marked and unmarked minefields.

Tajikistan-Afghanistan border

The land border with Afghanistan is closed. Armed clashes may occur without notice near the border with Afghanistan. Stay alert and be cautious in these areas. Do not walk off-road – there are both marked and unmarked minefields.

Tajikistan-Uzbekistan border

Some border crossings with Uzbekistan are open.  

Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region

There is a risk of civil unrest in Khorog and other towns in the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region. There were serious disturbances in 2021 and there have been violent clashes in and around Khorog since 2022 with casualties. There is an increased security presence. Some roads in Khorog, Rushan and other parts of Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region are temporarily closed. The security situation can change at short notice, with the possibility of further unrest.

If you’re travelling in the region, be alert in public places and check for security announcements by the local authorities.

Border crossings

Tajikistan’s borders with neighbouring countries can close without notice. Land border crossings between Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan, China and Afghanistan are closed to foreign travellers.

Check with the Tajikistan authorities or the British Embassy before you travel to see which crossings are open.

Tavildara Region

Take local advice in the Tavildara Region of central Tajikistan, as there are minefields dating from the civil war in the mountains.

Medical and rescue facilities are unreliable where they exist at all.

Before you travel check that:

• your destination can provide the healthcare you may need
• you have appropriate travel insurance for local treatment or unexpected medical evacuation

This is particularly important if you have a health condition or are pregnant.

Emergency medical number

Call 03 (non-English speaking) and ask for an ambulance.

Contact your insurance company promptly if you’re referred to a medical facility for treatment.

Vaccinations and health risks

At least 8 weeks before your trip check:

• the latest information on vaccinations and health risks in TravelHealthPro’s Tajikistan guide
• where to get vaccines and whether you have to pay on the NHS travel vaccinations page

The legal status and regulation of some medicines prescribed or bought in the UK can be different in other countries.

Read best practice when travelling with medicines on TravelHealthPro .

The NHS has information on whether you can take your medicine abroad .

Brand name drugs in Tajikistan may be counterfeit.

Healthcare facilities in Tajikistan

Tajikistan has poor medical facilities and a shortage of basic medical supplies. Medical facilities outside Dushanbe are quite basic and in some locations almost non-existent.

Tajikistan has a limited mountain rescue capability. This will be further limited in cases where individuals need rescue in high altitude or where weather conditions do not allow. Weather conditions can change rapidly at short notice, particularly in mountainous and high altitude locations.

FCDO has a list of English-speaking doctors in Tajikistan .

Travel and mental health

Read FCDO guidance on travel and mental health . There is also mental health guidance on TravelHealthPro .

The Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office ( FCDO ) cannot provide tailored advice for individual trips. Read this travel advice and carry out your own research before deciding whether to travel.

Emergency services in Tajikistan

Emergency services do not speak English.

Ambulance: 03 (103 from mobile phone)

Fire: 01 (101 from mobile phone)

Police: 02 (102 from mobile phone)

Contact your travel provider and insurer

Contact your travel provider and your insurer if you are involved in a serious incident or emergency abroad. They will tell you if they can help and what you need to do.

Refunds and changes to travel

For refunds or changes to travel, contact your travel provider. You may also be able to make a claim through insurance. However, insurers usually require you to talk to your travel provider first.

Find out more about changing or cancelling travel plans , including:

• where to get advice if you are in a dispute with a provider
• how to access previous versions of travel advice to support a claim

Support from FCDO

FCDO has guidance on staying safe and what to do if you need help or support abroad, including:

• finding English-speaking  lawyers ,  funeral directors  and  translators and interpreters  in Tajikistan
• dealing with a  death in Tajikistan
• being  arrested or imprisoned in Tajikistan
• getting help if you’re a  victim of crime
• what to do if you’re  in hospital
• if you’re affected by a crisis , such as a terrorist attack

Contacting FCDO

Follow and contact FCDO travel on Twitter , Facebook and Instagram . You can also sign up to get email notifications when this travel advice is updated.

You can also contact FCDO online .

Help abroad in an emergency

If you’re in Tajikistan and you need emergency help from the UK government, contact the British Embassy in Dushanbe .

FCDO in London

You can call FCDO in London if you need urgent help because something has happened to a friend or relative abroad.

Telephone: 020 7008 5000 (24 hours)

Find out about call charges

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Tajikistan (Asia)

Advice for all destinations.

Read the information on the COVID-19: Health Considerations for Travel page for advice on travelling during the COVID-19 pandemic.

Vaccinations and malaria risk

Review both the Vaccination and Malaria sections on this page to find out if you may need vaccines and/or a malaria risk assessment before you travel to this country.

If you think you require vaccines and/or malaria risk assessment, you should make an appointment with a travel health professional:

• How to make an appointment with a travel health professional

A travel health risk assessment is also advisable for some people, even when vaccines or malaria tablets are not required.

• Do I need a travel health risk assessment?

Risk prevention advice 

Many of the health risks experienced by travellers cannot be prevented by vaccines and other measures need to be taken.

Always make sure you understand the wider risks at your destination and take precautions, including:

• food and water safety
• accident prevention
• avoiding insect bites
• preventing and treating animal bites
• respiratory hygiene
• hand hygiene

Our advice section gives detailed information on minimising specific health risks abroad:

• Travel Health Advice A-Z

Other health considerations

Make sure you have travel insurance before travel to cover healthcare abroad.

Find out if there are any restrictions you need to consider if you are travelling with medicines .

Know how to access healthcare at your destination: see the GOV.UK English speaking doctors and medical facilities: worldwide list

If you feel unwell on your return home from travelling abroad, always seek advice from a healthcare professional and let them know your travel history.

Vaccinations

• Confirm primary courses and boosters are up to date as recommended for life in Britain - including for example, seasonal flu vaccine (if indicated), MMR , vaccines required for occupational risk of exposure, lifestyle risks and underlying medical conditions.
• Courses or boosters usually advised: Hepatitis A; Tetanus.
• Other vaccines to consider: Diphtheria; Hepatitis B; Rabies; Typhoid.
• Selectively advised vaccines - only for those individuals at highest risk: Cholera.

No yellow fever vaccination certificate required for this country.

Notes on the diseases mentioned above

Risk is higher during floods and after natural disasters, in areas with very poor sanitation and lack of clean drinking water.

• Diphtheria :  spread person to person through respiratory droplets. Risk is higher if mixing with locals in poor, overcrowded living conditions.

Risk is higher where personal hygiene and sanitation is poor.

Risk is higher for long stays, frequent travel and for children (exposed through cuts and scratches), those who may require medical treatment during travel.

• Tetanus :  spread through contamination of cuts, burns and wounds with tetanus spores. Spores are found in soil worldwide. A total of 5 doses of tetanus vaccine are recommended for life in the UK. Boosters are usually recommended in a country or situation where the correct treatment of an injury may not be readily available.
• Typhoid :  spread mainly through consumption of contaminated food and drink. Risk is higher where access to adequate sanitation and safe water is limited.

Malaria not normally present unless the illness was contracted abroad.

Other Health Risks

Altitude and travel.

There is a risk of exposure to coronavirus (COVID-19) in this country.

Please be aware that the risk of COVID-19 in this country may change at short notice and also consider your risk of exposure in any transit countries and from travelling itself. 

• The 'News' section on this page will advise if significant case increases or outbreaks have occurred in this country.

Prior to travel, you should:

• Check the latest government guidance on the FCDO Foreign travel advice and country specific pages for travel to this country and the rules for entering the UK on return.
• Ensure you are up to date with UK recommendations on COVID-19 vaccination.
• You can check this in the FAQ's.
• If you are at increased risk of severe COVID-19 you should carefully  consider your travel plans  and consider seeking medical advice prior to making any decisions.

For further information, see  Coronavirus disease (COVID-19)  and  COVID-19: Health Considerations for Travel  pages.

• 43 additional items in the news archive for this country

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Nature has been kind to Tajikistan, bestowing the country with breathtaking beauty: here you’ll find mountains, glaciers, lush river valleys and dense forest, supporting a bewildering array of flora and fauna. Sophie Ibbotson, author of Tajikistan: the Bradt Guide

Tajikistan is the roof of the world. When you first start to read about the country, this same cliché pops up time and again.

Initially it may seem that such repetition shows a lack of imagination among writers (at least a century of them, and counting), but when you finally come to stand atop a peak in the High Pamir, staring down as a concertina of meringue-like peaks unfolds beneath you, or even swoop down to land on a scheduled flight, holding your breath else the pilot brushes the snow off the mountaintops with the underside of the plane, you too will find the same phrase tripping off your tongue. Tajikistan  is the roof of the world.

Nature has been kind to Tajikistan, bestowing the country not only with breathtaking beauty but with a moderate climate too. Mountains and glaciers, lush river valleys and dense forest support a bewildering array of flora and fauna, including the famed (but sadly camera-shy) Marco Polo sheep and the even rarer snow leopard.

Hot springs – either the result of geological faults or miracles enacted by ancient holy men – are scattered through the valleys, their warm, mineral-rich waters both a pleasant diversion on a journey, and, for local Muslims, important pilgrimage sites. Alpine meadows bursting with the bright colours of spring flowers create a patchwork rainbow that streaks across the horizon, the pastures welcome picnic spots for road-weary tourists and grazing goats alike.

Food and drink in Tajikistan

Tajikistan does not have a long tradition of eating in restaurants: it was nigh on impossible during the Soviet period due to food shortages and the fact that people were encouraged to eat collectively in the work canteen. This has changed in urban centres, particularly as families choose to host wedding feasts and other large celebrations in restaurants rather than at home, but you will not find the density or diversity of restaurants typical in some other parts of Asia.

Restaurants in Tajikistan (particularly those situated outside of Dushanbe) typically have a limited menu of Russian and Tajik dishes. It is rare for everything listed to actually be available. If the restaurant is not fully booked for a celebration you won’t need a reservation, nor to wait for a table. Service may be chaotic but it is generally good-natured.

Sit-down places to eat typically fall into three categories. There are large, often fairly ghastly, restaurants which only cater to groups, either private parties or tour groups. These serve a buffet or set menu, and they may or may not welcome independent guests.

Second, and infinitely preferable, are Western-style restaurants which have multiple tables, a menu, and cook to order. You can wander in off the street and sit down, as long as it’s during opening hours. In larger cities you’ll have a choice of different cuisines – Dushanbe’s restaurant scene is looking decidedly cosmopolitan these days – and you can expect a reasonable level of customer service. You will be expected to leave a tip: 10% is standard.

Thirdly, you have local cafés, which are unpretentious and generally offer good value for money. These typically serve Tajik cuisine or other easily prepared snacks, and depending on the establishment you will either order from the counter and then take a seat, or wait for someone to come to you. There is unlikely to be a menu, and staff may well not speak English, so be prepared to look around at what other people are eating, point and smile. A tip, though not expected, is always appreciated.

More common than restaurants and cafés are street-side food stalls: from American fast-food stands with burgers and fries, to smoking grills and the vinegary smell of shashlik and onions wafting down the road, making your stomach rumble. Women with trays piled high with savoury pastries saunter through markets and the lobbies of office buildings; trestle-tables nearly buckle beneath the weight of freshly baked bread. The local fare tends to be tastier (and cheaper) than attempts at foreign food.

Tajik cuisine

Tajikistan runs on bread and tea. Wherever you are, from a customs post to a shepherd’s hut, there will always be a kettle on the boil and a few china tea bowls filled with a light, steaming tea. 

Tajik cuisine is definitely central Asian (plenty of grilled meats and dairy products), but with an influence from Afghanistan and Russia too. The national dish, as far as there is one, is plov or osh , an oily rice-based dish with shredded carrot, meat and occasionally raisins, roasted garlic or nuts. Plov is eaten with the hands from a communal plate at the centre of the table. 

Equally popular is qurutob . Balls of salted cheeses ( qurut ) are dissolved in water and poured over dry, flaky bread. The dish is then topped with onions fried in oil. It may be accompanied by laghman (noodle soup with mutton). Tajik restaurants tend to offer diners quite a limited menu. 

Every meal is accompanied by round, flat bread called non . Non is treated almost reverentially: it should not be put on the floor, placed upside down or thrown away. If it has turned stale it should be given to the birds. 

Common snacks include manti (steamed meat dumplings), somsa (triangular pastry with a meat and onion stuffing) and belyash (deep-fried dough stuffed with minced lamb). 

Dairy products feature heavily in Tajik cuisine. In addition to the qurut are  chaka (sour milk) and kaymak (clotted cream), both of which are eaten with bread. Western-style yoghurt, including bottled yoghurt drinks, is popular for breakfast. If you are in Tajikistan in late summer and early autumn, the country is bursting with fresh fruits. Roadsides stalls sell watermelons the size of beach balls; the sweet, juicy pomegranates are a glorious shade of pink; and you can also enjoy grapes, apricots, apples, figs and peaches. 

Health and safety in Tajikistan

The medical system in Tajikistan is seriously overstretched. The quality of medical training has fallen since the end of the USSR, many doctors have left to find work abroad, hospitals are run-down and equipment is out of date. Outside the major cities there is also a shortage of drugs and other medical supplies.

If you are ill or have an accident, you will be able to receive basic emergency treatment in Dushanbe, Kulob or Khujand but will then require evacuation (MEDEVAC) to a country with more developed medical infrastructure for ongoing care. One of the best hospitals in the country is in Khorog, opened with the help of the Aga Khan Foundation, with doctors who have often trained or worked overseas and tend to speak a good level of English.

Most towns in Tajikistan have aptekas, small pharmacies selling a range of generic drugs. You do not need a prescription to purchase medication, but should read the instructions carefully or get someone else to explain them to you.

Do not drink tap water – it can be a serious health hazard. Use bottled water, which is widely available, or even better, take a reusable water bottle and filter with you. Water purification tablets can be used when trekking or camping.

Tajikistan is generally a safe country for tourists to visit. All parts of the country are accessible to foreigners, though you will need a permit to visit GBAO. It is advisable to check the FCO travel advice before travelling, however, as issues such as Covid-19, natural disasters, and border openings/closures may influence how and when you travel.

Female travellers

Tajikistan is generally a safe place to travel, whether you are male or female. That said, you should exercise the usual personal safety precautions and dress modestly, especially in conservative rural areas. It is not culturally acceptable to wear revealing clothing (including shorts, vest tops, or T-shirts which reveal your stomach) in Tajikistan. If in doubt, look at what ordinary women are wearing on the street, and dress with commensurate modesty.

LGBTQ+ travellers

Homosexuality has been decriminalised in Tajikistan but there is, to our knowledge, no open gay scene in Dushanbe. Many people in Tajikistan are deeply conservative, especially when it comes to the issue of sexuality, and homosexuality is still often seen as a mental illness (a hangover from the Soviet period). 

If you are travelling with a same-sex partner, you would be wise to refrain from public displays of affection and be cautious when discussing your relationship with others: it is often simplest to allow others to assume you are simply travelling with a friend. Double rooms frequently have twin beds, so asking for one room is unlikely to raise eyebrows in any case.

Travellers of colour

Travellers of African descent, and those with red or blond hair and very pale skin, tend to stand out while travelling through Tajikistan, despite millennia of cultural mixing in the region. You may be stared at on the street, or approached to have your photograph taken, especially in smaller towns and rural areas. Many of these  interactions are out of curiosity and easily, even humorously, managed. However, alcohol-fuelled aggression is not uncommon, so try to avoid physical confrontation if possible.

Travelling with a disability

People with mobility problems will experience difficulty travelling in Tajikistan. Public transport is rarely able to carry wheelchairs, few buildings have disabled access, and streets are littered with trip hazards such as broken paving, uncovered manholes, and utility pipes. Hotel rooms are often spread over multiple floors without lifts and assistance from staff is not guaranteed. If you have a disability and are travelling to Tajikistan, you are advised to travel with a companion who can help you when the country’s infrastructure and customer service fall short. 

Travel and visas in Tajikistan

Unless you are a CIS national, you will almost certainly need a visa to enter Tajikistan. The Ministry of Foreign Affairs now offers an electronic visa for tourists that can be processed online through a special website . The process usually takes up to five business days, requires a scanned copy of your passport (with at least six months’ validity remaining) and costs US$50, plus an additional US$20 if you wish to visit the GBAO.

As of 1 March 2020, you can now apply for an e-visa with multiple entries, which is ideal if you’re planning a wider trip through central Asia and need to enter Tajikistan more than once.

Getting there and away

However you choose to travel, Tajikistan is not a particularly easy country to reach. Land borders open and close somewhat erratically, flights are irregular at the best of times and cancelled at the first sign of bad weather, and wherever you arrive from by train you’ll require a passport full of visas and the patience of a saint.

The vast majority of visitors arrive in Tajikistan on a flight to Dushanbe and this is, on balance, the easiest way to travel. Unless there are extenuating circumstances, you will need to have a visa before boarding the plane and may be prevented from flying if you do not.

Direct flights to Tajikistan tend to come only from the Middle East, Russia and the other CIS countries, although national carrier Somon Air is starting to open up new routes, including a new direct flight to New Delhi. It is likely, therefore, that if you take a flight originating in Europe or the USA you will need to get a connection in one of the regional hubs (Almaty, Istanbul or Moscow).

The safety record of many of central Asia’s airlines is such that they are prevented from flying in European airspace, although Somon Air does serve a number of more localised routes, including to Moscow and Istanbul.

There is a certain romance attached to train travel, and if you have the time to sit and watch the world pass by at a leisurely pace (very leisurely in the case of the old Soviet rail network), it is still a viable way to reach Tajikistan. Regardless of where the train originates, you will need to ensure you have a valid transit visa for every country en route , as well as a visa for Tajikistan.

Ticket classes are categorised in the Russian style. First-class or deluxe accommodation ( spets vagon ) buys you an upholstered seat in a two-berth cabin. The seat turns into a bed at night. Second class ( kupe) is slightly less plush, and there are four passengers to a compartment. Third class ( platskartny ) has open bunks (ie: not in a compartment) and, if you are really on a very tight budget indeed, a fourth-class ticket ( obshchiy ) gets you an unreserved and very hard seat. Bring plenty of food for the journey, and keep an eye on your luggage, particularly at night, as theft is sadly commonplace.

There are three main train routes to Tajikistan. There are two trains a week in each direction between Moscow and Dushanbe, a weekly service between Moscow and Khujand, and a twice-weekly service between Samara (Saratov) and Khujand. All these services pass through Tashkent; the Dushanbe train also passes through Samarkand. Tickets to Moscow (second class) start from just over US$145 and the trip takes four days.

The train timetable for the whole Russian rail network (including central Asia) is online at www.poezda.net . The Man in Seat 61  also has detailed information, including personal observations, about train travel in the former USSR.

Our preferred way to enter Tajikistan is through a land border, not because customs and immigration make it a particularly easy or pleasant experience, but because of the freedom having your own transport gives you once you finally make it inside.

Border crossings open and close regularly, often with little warning, and some crossings are open only to locals and not to foreigners. Keep your ear to the ground and, if in doubt, contact a tour operator or Tajik consulate before confirming your travel plans. We have previously ignored our own advice, with the result that we had to drive overnight from Panjakent to the Oybek crossing north of Khujand to leave Tajikistan before our visas expired. We would not recommend you follow suit. 

When to visit Tajikistan

Tajikistan’s climate is continental, and varies dramatically according to elevation, so when to visit Tajikistan depends on where you are going. It is the wettest of the central Asian republics, but again rain and snowfall depend on location, from the relatively dry valleys of Kafiristan and Vakhsh (500mm a year), to the Fedchenko Glacier, which receives in excess of 2,200mm of annual snowfall.

Temperatures in Tajikistan’s lowlands range on average from -1°C in January to as much as 30°C in July. The climate is arid, and artificial irrigation is required for agriculture. In the eastern Pamirs it is far colder: winter temperatures frequently fall to 20° below freezing, and the average temperature in July is just 5°C.

When to visit

Tajikistan explodes into life in the spring. As the snows subside and the higher parts of the country once again become accessible, the lower mountain slopes and pastures are a riot of colour. Tajiks celebrate Navruz, the Persian New Year, on the spring equinox, 21 March, with feasting, dancing and adrenalin-charged games of  buz kashi , Tajikistan’s answer to polo.

In the summer months, when temperatures in Dushanbe and the lowlands soar to uncomfortable levels, the Pamirs come into their own: you can drive the Pamir Highway without the risk of snow from June to September, and at the same time climb the higher peaks. Glacial meltwaters have slowed, the rivers are no longer in spate and, though an occasional blizzard may still catch you unawares, you can join the shepherds as they drive their flocks up into the mountains to grow fat on the grasses of high pastures. 

Tajikistan marks its Independence Day on 9 September, and the crops in the Fergana Valley and other agricultural areas are harvested. The fresh fruits at this time of year are divine. Nights in late September will already be cold in the Pamirs, and from October roads in the higher mountains will be impassable due to snowfall and ice. As the autumn progresses the emerald-green trees that form ribbons through the bottom of each river valley turn almost overnight to a fiery red and orange. In Tajikistan’s lower regions, which include most of the north and southwest, there’s a bite to the air come nightfall, but bright sunshine still warms up the day.

The winter is hard in Tajikistan, with many communities cut off and, if the harvest has been poor, dangerously short of food. For those with money, however, the snowfall marks the start of the ski season, and the Takob ski resort becomes busy with day trippers from Dushanbe.

What to see and do in Tajikistan

Some 12km to the east of Bokhtar are the archaeological remains of Ajina Tepa, the 8th-century Buddhist monastery from which the remarkable Sleeping Buddha (now in the National Museum of Antiquities in Dushanbe) was uncovered in the 1960s.

Though all of the finds were removed to Dushanbe or museums in Russia, it is still possible to see remnants of the 2.5m-thick mud-brick walls that protected the internal courtyard and monastic buildings. Approximately 1,500 artefacts have been excavated from the site since the initial archaeological dig in the 1960s, a testimony to the monastery’s importance and opulence.

Ironically, despite its holy affiliations, the name Ajina Tepa itself means ‘Devil’s Hill’, and fragments of gargoyles and other demon-like sculptures were found among the ruins; scholars believe these items served to scare away opponents of Buddhism.

With its style caught somewhere between stark Soviet-era and laid-back Western café culture, Tajikistan’s capital city feels more like a market town than a metropolis. Its skyline is scraped by a handful of mid-rises and accented by the world’s now second-tallest flagpole, and the parks and gardens have benefited from some lush landscaping and impressive water features.

Without centuries of Silk Road wealth or the patronage of indulgent emperors, Dushanbe’s façades have historically been far humbler than those of many of its central Asian rivals, though that is changing with the controversial push towards bigger, bolder buildings: the opulent Navruz Palace and immense National Museum of Tajikistan among them.

But the geography of the valley, the paths of the rivers, and the acres of parkland and trees still define the shape of the city and give it a quietly bustling feel. In the heart of the Hisor Valley, at the confluence of the Varzob and Kofarnihon rivers, Dushanbe (meaning ‘Monday’) takes its name from the weekly market, which historically took place on this site.

Dushanbe’s geographical isolation may have contributed to its less starkly Soviet architecture, but many of the more notable buildings from the country’s decades as a republic of the USSR – including the central post office and the much-loved Vladimir Mayakovsky Drama Theatre – have been demolished in recent years and replaced by even larger commercial structures financed by developers from across Asia.

Still, many of the buildings in the centre of the city are predominantly low-rise, brightly painted, and hark back to an earlier Russian style. The tree-lined avenues, and the manicured parks and cafés in squares, create an almost continental feel, and the clutch of monuments and museums speak to Tajikistan’s push for a post-independence architectural legacy.

The best things to see and do in Dushanbe

National museum of antiquities.

The largest and most important museum in Dushanbe, this cultural highlight houses artefacts covering 3,000 years of Tajik history. Recently renovated, the museum is laid out according to a mixture of geography and chronology. Some of the more important items are labelled in English, and the staff are keen to tell you about the items on show.

The museum’s greatest draw, the Sleeping Buddha, takes pride of place on the second floor. Since the destruction of the Bamiyan Buddhas in 2001, this 16m-long statue is the largest remaining Buddha in central Asia. Dating from around ad500 and sculpted from local clay, it was discovered at the Buddhist monastery of Ajina Tepa in 1966 and had to be moved to Dushanbe in sections.

Rudaki Park

Sandwiched between Rudaki and Ismoili Somoni, this sprawling park is a well-maintained space with numerous flower beds that come into bloom in early summer and are a colourful addition to the landscape right through to autumn. In September, the beds are a riot of red and orange.

Whichever path you take through the park you’ll be unable to miss the world’s second-tallest flagpole. Rising 165m above the park, this controversial structure cost US$3.5 million to build and was erected as the world’s tallest in May 2011 as part of celebrations to commemorate 20 years of Tajik independence. Three years later, the city of Jeddah erected a 170m pole, snatching the flag for Saudi Arabia.

At its heart lies the Palace of Nations, an imposing structure that can be seen from across the city. With its golden dome, it is home to both President Rahmon and many of the government ministries. Though photogenic, the palace guards are a little jumpy about foreigners wielding cameras, so if you wish to take a photo then do so subtly. This is not the place to set up your long lens on a tripod.

Other photo opportunities in this area are the ostentatious golden statue of Ismoili Somoni with its two uniformed guards, the elegant, marble Independence monument (aka Stele), and the rather more tasteful Arch of Rudaki. The statue of Rudaki stands beneath a colourful mosaic arch and is reflected in the pool of water below. Don’t miss the immense artificial waterfall built into the side of a hill overlooking the racetrack and the river.

National Library of Tajikistan

Relocated from its original position by the Academy of Sciences, the new National Library opened in 2012 and is designed to look like an open book. The biggest library in central Asia, it holds over 10 million books – the original building housed only 2.5 million when it opened, but a call was put out to Tajiks to donate books to help fill the shelves.

On the first floor you can find books about Tajik history, culture and traditions. The library also houses an important collection of ancient manuscripts that includes one of the earliest copies of Firdausi’s famous work, the Shahnama (Book of Kings).

Writers’ Union Building

On the northern side of Ismoili Somoni, this is one of Dushanbe’s most unusual but striking constructions. It dates from the Soviet period but its façade is covered with life-sized statues of Tajik poets and other cultural heroes whose lives and work span the last millennium.

With the notable exception of Firdausi, few of the names are easily recognisable to foreigners, but this monument does show the high esteem in which the Tajik people hold their vernacular literary figures.

Garm Chashma

Some 30km south of Khorog on the road to Ishkashim is the village of Andarob – the turning-off point for Garm Chashma, the best hot springs in Tajikistan. Legend has it that Ali struck the ground with his sword while fighting a dragon, and hot water spewed forth. 

The springs, which are surrounded with a vast, cave-like mineral deposit, are reputed to treat 72 different types of illness, the primary ones being dermatological and orthopedic conditions. They are used in turn by men and women; if you arrive during the other sex’s session you can either wait or use the covered (and far less dramatic) side pools. 

It is expected that you will bathe naked, and the salts and sulphur leave your skin feeling remarkably soft. At 65°C, it’s recommended to stay in the water for only 10–15 minutes, but we were assured by staff at the pool that the waters are safe for everyone. Prices range from TJS2 to TJS25 depending on when you go and whether you use the VIP pool.

It is possible to stay at the site overnight at the Somon-TM hotel, owned by the president’s daughter. Rooms are all en suite and expensive by Tajik standards (especially outside Dushanbe), but you do get breakfast and a private session at the VIP pool included in the price.

Close to Andarob, a little off the main road, is the Kuh-i Lal (Ruby Mountain) described by Marco Polo. The mine here still produces small quantities of spinels (also known as balas ruby) and you will occasionally be offered uncut stones to buy.

One of Tajikistan’s largest and wealthiest cities, Khujand has an almost cosmopolitan air and it bears the weight of its turbulent history well. Parks and monuments have all been sensitively restored, the bazaar is one of the liveliest in central Asia, and the mighty river, Syr Darya (Jaxartes), is a striking urban centrepiece. The well-paved streets, commercial centres and modern airport all reflect the city’s relative prosperity and solid position as an economic engine in the Fergana Valley.

Khujand feels much friendlier and relaxed than Dushanbe, having a compact centre where it’s impossible to escape the smell of its infamous shashlik, and many an hour can be whiled away people watching from the pavement restaurants and cafés.

While its most famous monuments are centuries old, they are starting to be rivalled by newer attractions such as the cable car, opened in 2019, and the increasing number of boat trips being offered down the sparkling clear river.

The best things to see in Khujand

Sheik muslihiddin mosque.

The fairly modern Sheik Muslihiddin Mosque is the city’s largest place of worship and cuts a striking figure on the skyline: the intricate portico, tiled minaret and turquoise domes would not look out of place in Bukhara or Samarkand. There is an attractive 19th-century minaret made of baked-mud bricks. It stands 21m tall and is a particularly popular resting place for the local pigeon population.

Sheik Muslihiddin (1133–1223) is buried in the 14th-century gilded mausoleum on the same site. He was a holy poet come miracle worker who was revered by local people. Originally buried in the suburbs, his remains were moved here shortly before the Mongol invasion. The mud-brick tomb and its contents were burned by the Mongols and completely destroyed, so the mausoleum you see today dates from two later periods of construction in the 14th and 16th centuries respectively.

Panjshanbe Bazaar

On the opposite side of the square to the mosque is Panjshanbe Bazaar, Khujand’s central market. The vast pink edifice with its attractive white plasterwork and central semi-dome looks as if it should be the set for a fairy-tale wedding or an 18th-century royal ball, but it in fact dates from 1964 and was always intended to house market traders and their wares.

Climbing the stairs to the right of the main entrance enables you to get a closer look at the beautifully painted ceiling, and also offers a good vantage point for photographs across the square. The market itself has a lively atmosphere, particularly in the morning, and you’ll scarcely be able to set foot among the fruit stalls before someone will accost you with a slice of melon or handful of pomegranate seeds to try.

Every kind of good is for sale here, and the hours fly by as you rummage around, engage in riotous charades and buy all sorts of things you never knew you needed. It’s a great place for people watching, and the market traders are friendly, always keen to chat and pose for photographs.

Khujand Fortress

A short distance west of Ismoili Somoni is Victory Square (also called Pushkin Square) and the historic centre of the city: Khujand Fortress. Archaeological excavations on the site have unearthed Graeco- Bactrian coins, pottery shards and other items which date the earliest parts of the citadel to the 4th century bc. Many of these are displayed in the museum.

The fortress was continually rebuilt and expanded for 2,500 years, however, as every time it was attacked, significant reconstruction was required. It reached its greatest extent in the 13th century, with thick clay walls atop an embankment, a water-filled moat, and a city wall encompassing 20ha of land, but even then it was no match for Genghis Khan. The Mongols completely destroyed the fortress.

Kamoli Khujand Park is home to one of Khujand’s newest tourist attractions, a cable car taking you on a slow and graceful journey over the Syr Darya, with an optional stop on the north side of the river. VIP carriages offer the opportunity to relax and enjoy the view while sitting on a sofa.

Lake Sarez (3,263m) is often referred to as the ‘sleeping dragon’, and it is easy to see why. It was formed by an earthquake in February 1911 estimated to be between 6.5 and 7.0 on the Richter scale, as the resulting landslide shifted over 2 billion m³ of rock and formed the Usoi Dam. At approximately 5km long, 3.2km wide and up to 567m high, it is the tallest natural dam in the world.

Named after the village buried by the landslide, it killed an estimated 302 people. The isolation and destruction of the mountain tracks was such that word did not reach the Russian posts at Murgob and Khorog about the earthquake for six weeks.

Following a landslide that caused a 2m-high wave in the lake in 1968, investigations were held into the stability of the dam. The primary danger is thought to be a partially detached section of rock around 3km³ in size which could break loose and fall into the lake. Owing to the narrowness of the valley below, a flood would be highly destructive.

Initially, a 50m-tall wave of water travelling at 300km/h would destroy all of the villages in the Bartang Valley. Within 10 hours, the wall of water would flood the flat parts of south Tajikistan before dividing into two large rivers which move on to Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan, finally reaching the Aral Sea. In total, it is thought the flood could affect over 5 million people, 370,000 of whom are from Tajikistan.

Trekking routes

Treks focused on Lake Sarez start in Barchidev, the last settlement where you’ll find a homestay. The first day of the trek takes you south along the Murgob River and to the vast, natural dam at Usoi, the village now buried beneath the rockfall. It is possible to turn from here to Barchidev if you only have time for a short trek, though most people prefer to continue round the lake to Irkht. There are two variations to this part of the route: a boat trip across the water, or the strenuous and vertigo-inducing climb over the Marjanai Pass (3,972m).

Irkht was once a meteorological station, but little indication of this now remains. It’s another day’s hard walk up the Langar River to Vykhinch and thence the three head-like lakes at Uchkul. There is another steep climb, this time to the Langar–Kutal Pass (4,630m), from where it is 20km to the summer pastures at Langar (not to be confused with Langar in the Wakhan Corridor). You’ll be welcomed with bread and tea, and possibly fresh ewes’ milk too.

Langar lies just below Jasilkul, one of the four largest lakes in the Pamirs. The final leg of the trek winds its way down the river valley to Bachchor at the northeastern end of the Gunt Valley. The path rejoins the road at Bachchor, whence it is 22km back to the Pamir Highway or 116km to Khorog. We would advise driving.

To complete this trek you will need detailed topographical maps of the area. The best currently available ones are those produced by the Soviet military, and thankfully the topography of the area has changed little since they were drawn up. You can download the complete set from Mapstor . They go down to 1:50,000 scale.

Maps are no substitute for a competent guide who knows the local area and can read the conditions on the mountains. You should contact PECTA or Pamir Silk Travel , both of which are in Khorog, to get a reliable recommendation.

Ideally located only a short drive from the Uzbek border, with its historical sites and bustling bazaar, Panjakent (often spelled Penjikent) strongly deserves to be more than just an overnight stop en route between Tajikistan and Uzbekistan .

Long the gateway between the two countries, it should probably be part of Uzbekistan given that 70% of the population is ethnically Uzbek. The superb archaeological sites of ancient Panjakent and nearby Sarazm have earned it the moniker ‘the Pompeii of central Asia’ and are potent reminders of its historical importance and erstwhile wealth

Ancient Panjakent

Ancient Panjakent is remarkable due to the state of its preservation. Having been abandoned suddenly and never built over, it is still possible to walk the streets laid out much the same way as they were the day the Arabs came. At its height in the 8th century, the city covered around 20ha, and about half of this area has been carefully excavated, with finds being removed to the National Museum in Dushanbe and the local Rudaki Museum. Most impressive among the buildings are the citadel on top of the hill overlooking the city, the necropolis, and the fine, once multi-storied buildings where the famous frescoes were discovered.

There is a small museum near the entrance to the ruins, featuring a handful of artefacts and detailed information about the life of Russian archaeologist Boris Marshak, who spent half a century excavating the site and lobbying for its preservation. As per his will, Marshak is buried on the grounds.

Taxis can be hired to visit the ruins, which overlook the modern city a mere  2km south of Rudaki, adjacent the airport. The labyrinthine ruins are open around the clock, but it is advisable to visit only within the operating hours of the museum.

Some 15km west of Panjakent, just before the newly reopened Uzbek border, are the impressive ruins of one of Tajikistan’s other great archaeological sites: Sarazm. Discovered in 1976 by the Soviet archaeologist Abdullojon Isakov, it is remarkable for both its size and its antiquity.

Sarazm is an open-air site so there are no fixed opening times, and no entrance fee. Local people may appear to ‘guide’ you around the site, in which case give them a small donation for their time. There is very little information on the site itself aside from a few weathered information boards, so it’s a place you can let your imagination wander.

The earthen mounds and depressions on the site were once urban structures, burial sites and reservoirs, and a visit to Sarazm is a nod to the long human history of Tajikistan. Known by archaeologists as a ‘proto-urban site’ because of its status as one of the world’s oldest cities, the Sarazm settlement originally spread across 130ha.

It was the first settlement in central Asia to form such far-reaching trading connections and have such a vibrant cultural heritage. Carbon dating confirms it was already inhabited by 3500BC, peaking at the start of the Bronze Age when it was likely the largest metallurgical centre in central Asia. It thrived until the 3rd millennium BC and was added to UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites in 2010 (the first UNESCO site in Tajikistan) in recognition of its historical significance in being the physical and cultural meeting point of settled farming tribes and the nomads of the Eurasian steppe.

The name ‘Sarazm’ means ‘where the land begins’, and for several millennia the settlement served as a great centre of trade and industry, producing handicrafts, tools and other artefacts that were sold and utilised throughout the ancient world.

The Pamir Highway

The prize for the world’s best drive is hotly contested, but the Pamir Highway certainly comes close to perfection (at least in terms of thrills and views). Magnificent mountains, gushing rivers and waterfalls, summer settlements with nomads and sheep, and scarcely another vehicle in sight are all points in its favour.

While it’s not a route for the faint-hearted, if you have the physical and mental stamina it’s a once in a lifetime experience whether you’re travelling by two wheels or four. Be sure to visit in the summer months as the road is impassable during the rest of the year.

Whether you choose to take the southern route through the southwest of Tajikistan, or the harder, more rugged route through the central part of the country, either way you end up in laid-back Khorog, the backpackers’ hub in the Pamirs. From here it’s a challenging drive south to the Afghan border, then on to the windswept wasteland of the Murgob Plateau. 

Khorog to Murgob

The eastern section of the Pamir Highway between Khorog and Osh, Kyrgyzstan, was built by Soviet military engineers in the early 1930s. Its construction was a phenomenal achievement. It is the second-highest international road in the world (after the Khujerab Pass between Pakistan and China), and primary construction took just three years.

It was significantly upgraded to allow improved military access for the Soviet invasion of Afghanistan in 1979, as this was one of the most important routes for the ill-fated campaign. However, the road appears to have received little love and attention since, and this is a challenging route requiring a sturdy vehicle and a lot of patience.

If using apps to map your route, expect the journey to take considerably longer than the estimated duration, and take your time – the views are beautiful, and the odd memorial is a stark reminder that it is more important to reach your destination safe, albeit a little later than planned.

Murgob to the Kyrgyz border

The final stretch of the Pamir Highway heads north from Murgob to Bor Dobo, just across the Tajik–Kyrgyz border, and thence to Sary Tash and Osh, Kyrgyzstan’s second city. This northern part of the Pamirs is the remotest part of Tajikistan, and also home to some of the finest trekking routes (and rarest wildlife) in the country.

Strangely, the quality of the roads seems to improve, and the final stretch of the Pamir Highway in Tajikistan takes you past more jagged peaks and turquoise lakes.

As you near the Kyrgyz border, you’ll also see a short fence on your right – this understated feature is the border with China.

Yagnob Valley

The word Yagnob (or Yaghnob) is thought to be derived from the Tajik adaptation of the Yagnobi phrase ‘ix-I nou’, meaning ‘ice valley’ or ‘ice river’. Until the Russians blasted the road through the mountains, the Yagnob Valley was almost entirely cut off from the outside world, accessible only on foot when the weather would allow. It remains one of Tajikistan’s most wild, unspoilt spots and a fascinating anthropological microcosm.

The valley’s singularity of language, traditions and landscape was first noticed by Europeans in the late 19th century, but the inhabitants of the region themselves consider their ancestral line to go back some 2,500 years into the past, to the era of the ancient Sogdiana civilisation.

At almost 3,000m above sea level, the valley houses a mere 500 people during the winter months spread among some ten small settlements, though this swells to around 3,000 in the summer. The low population is due mostly to forced resettlement of the villagers to cotton-growing regions by the Soviets in the mid 20th century. The Yagnobis’ stone houses are typically clustered in the relatively wide areas along the Yagnob River, surrounded by spectacular mountain peaks and incredible trekking trails.

Tajikistan is a paradise for nature lovers and those who spend time in the great outdoors, and this is never more true than in the Yagnob Valley. Zamin Karor (the Yagnob Wall, which translates as ‘quiet ground’) can be found in the Yagnob Valley. The dramatic cliffs can be seen for miles around and are often home to climbing competitions. There are eight distinct peaks with altitudes ranging from 3,709m to 4,767m, with western and northwestern walls providing the most complex mountaineering routes.

The valley is also home to striking petrified forests dating back to the Jurassic period, when the region was much more humid and fertile. The ferrous vines and hardened tree trunks stand up to 5m high, a reminder of the valley’s timelessness and the resilience of nature.

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For more information, see our guide to Tajikistan :

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A guide for traveling to Tajikistan (Tips + 3-week itinerary)

By Joan Torres 2 Comments Last updated on April 12, 2024

Wanna travel to Taliban Afghanistan with Against the Compass?

We have one tour scheduled for the Wakhan Corridor in Afghanistan.

August 18th to September 2nd, 2024

The ex-Soviet Republic of Tajikistan is a truly wild country that you don’t want to miss in your Silk Road journey.

Home to the Pamir range, one of highest mountain ranges in the world, the mountains of Tajikistan attract the most adventurous travelers, especially those wanting to drive the M-41, or Pamir Highway, an impressive road and architectural masterpiece that goes through some of the remotest and most beautiful mountain scenery in Central Asia .

With tourism increasing year by year, the country is daily becoming more prepared to receive international travelers and, after spending 1 month in the country, I have compiled this guide that contains all the tips needed for traveling to Tajikistan , plus a compelling 3-week itinerary.

In this Tajikistan travel guide you will find:

Table of Contents

• Travel Insurance
• Best time to visit
• The country and culture
• Scams and corruption
• Food and alcohol
• Transportation
• Useful books
• Accommodation
• More information

eSIM card for browsing when traveling in Tajikistan

With Holafly , you can now get an electronic SIM card for Tajikistan from home with just 2 clicks.

5% discount with the following code:

AGAINSTTHECOMPASS

🪪 How to get a visa for visiting Tajikistan

In 2022, tajikistan implemented a free-visa policy for up to 52 countries.

The free visa for Tajikistan is valid for both airport and land borders, and these countries include:

Argentina, Australia, Austria, Bahrain, Belgium, Brunei, Canada, Chile, Croatia, Cuba, Czech Republic, Denmark, Dominican Republic, Ecuador, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Indonesia, Italy, Jamaica, Japan, Jordan, Kuwait, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malaysia, Maldives, Monaco, Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Philippines, Poland, Portugal, Qatar, Saudi Arabia , Singapore, South Korea, Spain, Sri Lanka, Sweden, Switzerland, Thailand, Turkey, United Arab Emirates, United States

Problem > GBAO Permit

The  Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region  (GBAO) is the region located in the east of Tajikistan, where the Pamir Highway and Wakhan Valley are. 

If you want to visit it, you’ll have to get an extra permit.

How to get a GBAO permit:

• By applying for an e-visa and ticking the GBAO checkbox in the application form of the e-visa. That costs 20USD. While this might seem a convenient option, it makes the free VOA become totally useless.
• At the Tajikistan Embassy.
• At the Migration Police Office (OVIR) in Dushanbe, find the location here . This costs 20 Somoni.

Read: 30 Tips for traveling to Kazakhstan

The rest of the nationalities might be able to apply for an e-visa

And you can apply through the official portal , also valid for any port of entry.

The visa costs 50USD, is valid for 60 days, is single entry, and takes 1 or 2 working days.

Double-entry visa for Tajikistan

For the e-visa, it’s finally possible to buy a multiple-entry tourist visa for Tajikistan.

🚑 Travel Insurance for Tajikistan

Tajikistan is an adventurous destination, with crazy high mountains, the Pamir Highway averaging around 4,000 meters above sea level, so you should get travel insurance with the following features and benefits:

• It covers adventure activities, including trekking in high altitudes
• It offers long-term plans, perfect for big overlanding trips around the Stans.

For that, I recommend IATI Insurance because it gathers all the above, plus readers of this blog get a 5% discount .

⛅ Best time to visit Tajikistan

If you plan to do some trekking in eastern Tajikistan, you should come in summer.

I remember being in Alichur, a small village in the Pamir Highway and one of the coldest places in Central Asia, and, in the morning, during August, it was -5ºC and there was a freezing, strong wind, so it felt even colder. 

Imagine the weather there during the rest of the year.

Nevertheless, the Pamir Highway is open all year long so, if you are self-driving, you can drive it at any time.

Actually, my friend Joao Leitao from Nomad Revelations drove it in winter.

On the other hand, the Fann Mountains in west Tajikistan are at lower altitude, hence warmer, so they can be visited during spring and fall. 

I did the 7 lakes trek in September and it was particularly hot!

🕌 The country, the people and its culture

After the Soviet Union’s dissolution in 1991, Tajikistan went through a dark period of Civil War that lasted pretty much until 1997 and it was not only in 1999, that they formed an actual, stable government, even though  Emomali Rahmon , who is still today President of Tajikistan today, had already been ruling from 1994.

It was one of the countries most affected by the Soviet Union’s breakdown, as all their economy and development depended on the Russians so, after getting their independence, the country went to ruin.

That crisis can still be seen today, as this is clearly the least developed of all the Stans (not counting Turkmenistan), a country with high rates of unemployment, and the fact that most of their infrastructure is still from the Soviet Union times.

It is also the least Westernized country, also due to the fact they are far from Russia so, unlike  Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan , their cultural influence is not that visible, hence they have less international exposure.

Actually, after having some conversations with quite a few highly educated Tajiks in Dushanbe, I felt that they don’t really know anything about what is going on in the outside world.

They were people with very few Western values and no apparent ambition who asked me many times why I would ever want to travel to Tajikistan.

Moreover, Tajikistan is one of those fake democracies where elections are celebrated but there is only one political party, so the same President has been ruling since 1994.

There is no freedom of speech and I remember when my Australian friend, Sam, was talking to a local man for about half an hour at the main square in Dushanbe, a man in a suit came to ask what was going on and invited him to leave.

This means that, still today, the Government doesn’t like their citizens to get international exposure.

The Tajiks – Tajiks are a Persian ethnic group who live mainly in Tajikistan and Afghanistan , but also in Xinjiang (China) and Uzbekistan .

Actually, nearly half of the total Tajik population live in Afghanistan.

Nevertheless, you should know that, like all the Stans, Tajikistan is ethnically mixed and, actually, most of the people living in the Pamirs are Kyrgyz, whereas those in the Wakhan Valley are Wakhis, so if you want to meet the real Tajiks when you are traveling to Tajikistan, you will have to explore Dushanbe and the western part of the country.

Language – Tajik, which is a dialect of Persian (the language spoken in Iran and Afghanistan) is the official language. Russian is, of course, widely spoken among most people. English tends to be a problem across all the country. I recommend you learn some basic Russian before you visit Tajikistan. 

Religion –  Tajiks are Suni Muslims but, like in all Central Asia, religion is not a very big deal. However, I felt that Tajiks were the most religious people in all Central Asia, especially those from the Fann Mountains. I remember that the men there never said hello or shook hands with my girlfriend.

Read: 65 Tips for traveling to Uzbekistan

🛫 How to travel to Tajikistan

Travel insurance for Tajikistan I recommend IATI Insurance : 5% discount + wide adventure activities coverage Get your discount when buying through this link

Travel to Tajikistan by air

Traveling to Tajikistan by air is very easy, as there are many international flights connecting Dushanbe with Europe.

If you intend to travel the Pamir Highway, many people fly into Osh, the largest city in southern Kyrgyzstan and the beginning of the M-41 on the Kyrgyz side.

Travel to Tajikistan by land

Moreover, if you want to travel to Tajikistan by land, know that it shares a border with 4 countries and most of them have multiple border crossings. 

Kyrgyzstan – There are 6 border crossings and 4 of them are open to foreigners. The most obvious is the Kyzyl Art border crossing , which is the one that follows the Pamir Highway. For more information, read the latest Caravanistan updates .

Uzbekistan – There are 5 border crossings with Uzbekistan and all of them seem to be open. I personally crossed the one at Konibodom , that links Khujand with the Fergana Valley , but if you don’t plan to visit that region, it is not very convenient. The Oybek border crossing is the one that connects Khujand with Tashkent and Penjakent is the one that connects the Fann Mountains with Samarkand. For more information, check the latest updates on Caravanistan .

Afghanistan – You can cross at Ishkashim, the gate to the Wakhan Corridor and a very safe part of Afghanistan; or the border crossing south of Dushanbe, which is also open but leads to Kunduz, a not very safe part of Afghanistan. Both borders are open but, if you plan to travel back to Tajikistan, remember to have a double entry visa.

China – Apparently, Kulma Pass is open now, as long as you have a valid printed visa on your passport. For more information, check the latest updates on Caravanistan .

Kulma Pass leads directly to the Karakoram Highway that connects Kashgar with Islamabad in Pakistan. Read here the full guide .

⚠️ Is it safe to travel to Tajikistan?

In summer 2018, 4 cyclists traveling across Tajikistan were murdered in Danghara , an area relatively close to Dushanbe. ISIS claimed the attack.

That accident triggered a big concern among many travelers and the Tajiks are concerned that it might affect their tourism negatively.

This unfortunate event, however, has been a one-off thing and I personally think that it shouldn’t affect your decision to travel to Tajikistan. A similar case happened in Morocco in December 2018 when 2 Scandinavian girls were killed and, so far, it doesn’t seem that tourism has been affected.

Aside from that, Tajikistan is a safe country with very low crime rates.

Scams and corruption when visiting Tajikistan

I still remember being in the car with a homestay owner, on our way to Khujand, when he gave some money to a policeman after stopping at one checkpoint.

Why did you give him money? – I said

Oh, this is just the standard bribing procedure. If we don’t pay him, then he would try to find a reason to fine or arrest us. 

The corruption in Tajikistan is a well-known fact and some of these police officers also try to rip off foreigners but luckily, as tourists, there is not much they can do to you unless you are credulous and believe their lies.

Common scams include policemen telling you that there is a problem with your Tajik visa or making you pay an entrance fee to a place that, obviously, doesn’t require an entrance fee.

Dude, just think:

How the hell there is going to be something wrong with your visa? And also, where have you been where you need to purchase an entry ticket from a policeman?

Just say no and continue with your business.

💻 Internet and connectivity in Tajikistan

Wi-Fi – From Murghab to Khujand and Dushanbe, the Wi-Fi connection when you are traveling in Tajikistan is one of the worst I have ever seen. In Dushanbe, the Wi-Fi in my hostel was particularly bad and then every day I would go work to a fancy café and the internet was down every now and then. In the Pamir Highway and the Wakhan Valley, Wi-Fi doesn’t exist.

SIM Card – 3G was just OK anywhere outside of the Pamir Highway. I bought MegaFon and, for a few Somonis, I got plenty of GBs.

eSIM for browsing, calling and traveling in Tajikistan

Basically, an eSIM is a regular SIM card with a digital format that works like a normal physical SIM card, with the added benefit that you can buy it from home before the beginning of your trip, hence avoiding the hassle of buying it at your destination. 

With Holafly , you can get a SIM Card for a wide range of destinations, including Tajikistan . 

Moreover, you can benefit from a 5% discount with the following code:  AGAINSTTHECOMPASS

Get a VPN for traveling in Tajikistan

You should always use a VPN when you travel, especially when you connect to public Wi-Fi networks.

Your connection will be much safer. 

Moreover, you will be able to access content which is typically censored in Tajikistan. 

I recommend ExpressVPN – Extremely easy to use, fast and cheap. 

If you want to learn more about VPN, check: Why you need a VPN for traveling .

💰 Money when you travel in Tajikistan

The official currency is the Tajik Somoni and approximately:

1 USD = 10.84 TJS

ATMs and credit cards – You can find ATM’s in the big cities (not in the Pamir Highway).

How much does it cost to travel to Tajikistan

It really depends on where you go and, ultimately, how you travel the Pamir Highway.

Typically, meals cost something between 1 and 3USD and budget homestays around 10-15USD, which tends to include dinner and breakfast.

In Dushanbe, you can find dorms for 3-4USD and the local transportation ranges from 2 to 10USD, depending on where you go.

For all costs referred to the Pamir Highway , read my guide .

🍲 Food and alcohol when visiting Tajikistan.

Like in all Central Asia, the food won’t be the highlight of your visit in Tajikistan. 

In the Pamirs and different homestays, you are likely to eat shorpo for every meal, which is a meat broth.

In local restaurants, you will just find things like shahslik , meat skewers;  lagman , a noodle soup; manti , fatty meat dumplings; or plov , rice fried in lamb fat.

As per alcohol, as in all ex-Soviet countries, beer and especially vodka are found everywhere.

🛺 Transportation when you travel around Tajikistan

The below information refers to types of transportation in western Tajikistan, not the Pamir Highway. For this, read my guide to the Pamir Highway .

Marshrutkas – Marshrutkas is what former Soviet countries call their public minivans. They are really cheap and travel between most towns and cities.

Local shared taxis – Actually, we used more local shared taxis than marshrutkas and, as far as I could see, they are the most preferred option among locals.

Hitchhiking – Highly doable and easy! We actually had one of our most crazy hitchhiking experiences, when we spent more than 48 hours in a truck, on our way from Khorog to Dushanbe.

📚 Books for traveling to Tajikistan

For more book options, check: the best 28 books on the Silk Road

Tajikistan Travel Guide by Bradt – The most comprehensive travel guide to Tajikistan. I bought all the Bradt guides to Central Asia (e-Book format). They are, by far, the most insightful guides I have ever read recently.

Central Asia Travel Guide by Lonely Planet – I am not a fan of this guide, but if you are traveling to all the Stans and want to buy just one book, it is a good choice as well.

🏨 Accommodation in Tajikistan

Homestays –  On the Pamir Highway, homestays are the way to go. I recommend you stay in random homestays, not in the popular ones. This way, the benefits will be spread more equally plus random homestays are cheaper.

Hostels – Hostels are popular, from Khorog to Dushanbe and Khujand.

Hotels – In Khorog, Dushanbe, and Khujand you can find hotel options for mid-range travelers.

Yurts – In the Pamirs, you can also find nomadic yurt camps where Kyrgyz nomads live.

Traveling to Tajikistan – 3-week Itinerary

I traveled to Tajikistan from Kyrgyzstan via Kyzyl Art Pass and left through Uzbekistan at Konibodom, so this Tajikistan itinerary reflects the direction I took.

Map of the Tajikistan itinerary

Things to do in Tajikistan – Pamir Highway (8-9 days) 

Built by the Soviets in 1930, the Pamir Highway is an architectural masterpiece that goes through some of the remotest landscapes you can ever imagine.

Officially, it starts in Osh (Kyrgyzstan) and ends in Afghanistan but the highest and most beautiful part of it lies in Tajikistan.

The following information is just a small summary. For the full guide, read my 6,000-word guide to the Pamir Highway .

How many days are needed for the Pamir Highway?

Well, it is really hard to say. We spent more than 2 weeks between the Pamir Highway and the Wakhan Valley but that is because we stopped in many places plus we also did a 3-day trek.

Normally, most people take a 5 or 7-day tour (starting from Osh), which also includes the Wakhan Valley, but, to be very honest, it is not enough to explore the side valleys, which is where the most stunning landscapes are.

If you don’t have the time, I get it but, if you do, here are all the places you need to stop at:

Karakul (1 night) – The first big settlement coming from Kyrgyzstan, Karakul has a very big lake and with some pretty cool snow-capped mountains at the background.

Murghab (2-3 nights) – Murghab is the main town on the M-41 and a base for visiting other places and valleys. We first stayed 2 nights because we waited for a festival and then we stayed a 3rd night after coming back from the trek.

Gumbezkul Pass trek (2-3 nights) – If you have your own car, you can do this trek in 1 day but we did it in 3, cause we walked all the way from Murghab and spent one amazing night with some real nomads in the middle of nowhere.

Alichur  (1 night) – Very cool landscapes, yaks, trekking and Marco Polo sheep safaris.

Bulunkul (Stopover) – The coldest place in Central Asia is home to a beautiful lake. The trek from Alichur to here is a popular one. You can find a few homestays.

For most travelers, the Pamir Highway is, definitely, one of the best things to do in Tajikistan.

Places to visit in Tajikistan – Wakhan Valley (3-4 days)

Many travelers tend to classify the Wakhan Valley as part of the Pamir Highway (M-41), which is completely wrong because they are 2 different places.

Actually, to reach the Wakhan Valley you need to leave the road and drive towards Afghanistan for several kilometers.

Anyways. The Wakhan Valley is one of my most favorite places in entire Central Asia and my most favorite place in my Tajikistan itinerary.

And the reason is that, besides being home to intriguing and jaw-dropping landscapes, the Wakhan is of great historical importance as the ancient border between North Asia and South Asia and on the remarkable Silk Road route, which can be seen in the many fortresses and other sites of cultural heritage there.

Moreover, in the 20th century, the Wakhan Valley marked the border between the Soviet Union and Afghanistan and the Soviet tanks came through here to invade Afghanistan in the 70s.

Today, the river you will go along during your whole journey, whose other side is in Afghanistan, is the main entry point for smuggling products, especially heroin, and, from the window of your car, you can wave and say hello at the many Afghans across the river, from whom you are separated by only a couple of meters.

Once again, this is a small summary, so for more information, don’t forget to check my guide to the Wakhan Valley in Tajikistan.

These are all the places we stopped at:

Langar (1 night) – The first big settlement you find is Langar.

We personally didn’t like Langar, as it is the only place in the Wakhan where the locals are very pushy in trying to promote their homestays, plus it is actually far from the river.

I recommend you continue for a few kilometers to Hisor, a more genuine village and with nicer views to actual Afghanistan.

Vrang (stop) – Vrang is another old village that has an ancient Buddhist temple. It is worth stopping for a few hours.

Yamchun (1 night) – The most striking fortress in the Wakhan, which stands with the Afghan Hindu Kush on its background.

It also has some famous hot springs called Baby Fatima that are believed to have some fertility benefits.

Namadgut (1 night) – There is nothing in particular to see here but travelers don’t tend to stop here, so it is quite untouched. That is why here we had the best cultural experience with a local woman who blessed us with her hospitality.

Kaakha Fortress – The second most famous fortress after Yamchun has also great views to Afghanistan.

Ishkashim (1 night) – The main town in the Wakhan Valley. It used to hold the Afghan market in no man’s land but it is temporarily closed. It is also the border to Afghanistan for those interested in doing the Afghan Wakhan corridor.

Tajikistan itinerary – Khorog (2 days)

After nearly two weeks of showering with buckets, using holes and bushes as toilets, exclusively eating shorpo and with no internet at all, getting to Khorog felt particularly good.

It is not a very big town but it has a good local market where you can buy many food items that were not available in the Pamir Highway, like cheese, and supermarkets with cold beer.

There is also an Indian restaurant that tends to be filled with travelers and a really good Tajik restaurant by the river, serving high quality grilled meat and other stuff.

Other than this, Khorog is a place to just chill, where we spent 4 days just catching up with work and filling our bellies with decent food.

By the way, the famous Afghan market takes place on Saturday.

Where to stay in Khorog

Backpacker Hostel –  Pamir Lodge  – All right, it is a cool place and there is a friendly atmosphere. However, the hostel has the capacity for nearly 100 people and it only has two toilets and two showers, so when I came in August, it was very difficult to find them empty, apart from being quite dirty of course.

Backpacker Hostel –   Hostel Do Nazarbayg  – An alternative to Pamir lodge. You will find fewer backpackers but the location is much better and it is not that busy.

Guest House – Riverside – A quieter, more homestay-style place.

The journey to Dushanbe – 1 day

The road to Dushanbe is a very long way.

Shared taxis take around 12 hours and cost 30USD. They leave from near the market but you need to be there early, 7am at most.

We arrived before 8am and there weren’t any marshrutkas or taxis left, so we decided to hitchhike and it took us 3 days, spending more than 48 hours in a truck.

The distance is only 518km but the road is really bad but beautiful and interesting as, again, it goes along the Afghan border for the most part of it.

Things to do in Tajikistan – Dushanbe (2 days)

The capital of Tajikistan is another place to chill for a few days while you collect some visas, like the Uzbek or Turkmen visas.

Well, not the Uzbek visa anymore, as from February 2019, they started issuing visas on arrival. Check my Uzbekistan travel guide for more information.

Dushanbe has cafés with real coffee, a variety of restaurants and a few pubs where to hang out at night.

What I liked about Dushanbe is that it was my first introduction to the real Tajikistan, as most people you meet in the eastern part are Kyrgyz, Wakhis or Pamir, so you will see a significant difference with the people living here, especially in the way women dress.

Don’t forget to check the main bazaar and the Rudaki Park, which holds the second tallest flagpole in the world

Where to stay in Dushanbe

Backpacker Hostel –   Green House Hostel – We spent so many days here because the hostel was really comfortable. Comfy beds, a big kitchen and a living room with awesome couches.

Budget Guest House –  Hello Dushanbe  – If you want a less backpacker-friendly place, Hello Dushanbe may be slightly more expensive but the facilities are great. It has both private rooms and a dorm.

Hissor Fortress – Day trip from Dushanbe

If you are bored to be in Dushanbe, we also did a day trip to a fortress named Hissor, which was built by the Uzbeks in the 18th century, as this part of Tajikistan used to belong to the Emirate of Bukhara. The north was part of the Russian empire. 

All right, the fortress itself was boring, as it was overly refurbished, but we always like to get out of town, take a local marshrutka and just see other towns, so it was worth it only for this reason. 

How to get to Hissor fortress

From Dushanbe, you need to take a marshrutka to a town named Khisor. From there, take a taxi or hitchhike back to the fortress which is 4 or 5km away.

Places to visit in Tajikistan – Penjakent and the Fann Mountains (3-4 days)

Once again, this is a small summary.

For all the information needed, read my guide to the Fann Mountains .

While they are not as stunning as the valleys around the Pamir Highway, the Fann Mountains are also very pretty and their main advantage is that, unlike the Pamirs, they are heavily populated and filled with several tiny villages where actual Tajik people live.

Therefore, visiting the Fann Mountains is a great opportunity to discover the real Tajik rural life, so different from anything you have seen during your Tajikistan itinerary. 

Most people come to the Fann Mountains to visit Iskanderkul lake but I recommend going to the area around Penjakent and doing the 7 Lakes Trek .

The reason is that, although Iskanderkul is a beautiful lake, no people live there plus it is always busy with domestic tourists, which isn’t a bad thing, but you won’t see much of the local culture. 

On the other hand, the 7 Lakes trek starts in Penjakent and goes through several tiny villages where you can do homestays.

From Penjakent, we took a UAZ-452, the classic Soviet mini-van, and drove to a village named Rachnapollon.

That area is really off the beaten track, so the driver himself invited us to stay at his place, for free, but we decided to give him a generous tip because he had been feeding us. 

How to get to Penjakent

First, take a local shared taxi from Dushanbe to Penjakent, which costs  70TJS (8USD) . It is a 230km journey.

In Penjakent, for just a few somonis, we got in the UAZ-452 to Rachnapollon, from where we started walking on the next day.

Remember to check my guide to the Fann Mountains

Places to visit in Tajikistan – Khujand (2-3 days)

Khujand is the purest Tajikistan in its most genuine form and one of the oldest cities in Central Asia (2,500 years old). 

It is the second largest city in the country, a city with little international exposure that has kept its traditional values.

Most travelers use it as a mere transit point, as it is close to the closest border with Tashkent, but I recommend spending here two nights at least.

Things to do in Khujand

Don’t forget to check the traditional bazaar, one of those traditional bazaars where everybody asks for a photo and gives you free stuff; and all the mausoleums and historical buildings around the main square. The Arbob Palace is also worth checking out. 

Where to stay in Khujand

Budget Hostel – Somoni Hostel – The best choice for backpackers and a really cool hostel.

Budget Hotel – Golden Apartments – The alternative to a backpacker hostel.

❗ More information for visiting Tajikistan

📢 In my Travel Resources Page you can find the list of all the sites and services I use to book hotels, tours, travel insurance and more.

All guides and articles for traveling in Tajikistan destination

• Travel Guide to Wakhan Valley
• Fann Mountains Travel Guide
• Travel Guide to Pamir Highway

Travel guides to other countries in Central Asia

• Kyrgyzstan Travel Guide
• Travel Guide to Uzbekistan
• Travel Guide to Kazakhstan
• Pakistan Travel Guide
• Afghanistan Travel Guide

Hi, first of all thanks for sharing all this info, it is very rare to find such a helpful person.I saw your itinerary, you crossed the wakhan valley from the Tajik side, I wanted to ask you what type of permit should you ask for? I will be doing the pamir, so I will have to ask for GBAO permission. Do I still have to apply for an Afghan visa to cross the wakhan valley from the Tajik side or is the GBAO enough?

Hi there. Sorry, I am a bit confused about your question. There are two Wakhan Valleys: Tajik and Afghan. I did visit Tajik Wakhan, but I never visited Afghan Wakhan. To visit Tajik Wakhan you need GBAO permit. To visit Afghan permit you need an Afghan visa but now that it’s under Taliban rule, I don’t know how can you visit it.

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Tajikistan travel guide, including map of Tajikistan, top Tajikistan travel experiences, tips for travel in Tajikistan, plus how to follow the Pamir Highway thr

Sandwiched between Afghanistan and China, this former Persian settlement is made up of a mêlée of clans. It has a long and swashbuckling history; it is the land where Alexander the Great battled the Scythians, where Russian and British spies played cat and mouse and, most recently, where civil war raged.

But despite being the poorest of all the former Soviet countries, it is rich in travel experiences, offering striking scenery and gargantuan peaks (a staggering 93% of the country is mountainous).

Perfect for those who like adventure with a capital A, this is a wild, rugged region where you’ll find yurt-dwelling farmers, gleaming lakes and the Pamir Highway, one of Asia’s greatest road trips.   

Wanderlust recommends

• Take the high road – drive along the Pamir Highway where you’ll be treated to dazzling alpine views at every twist and turn
• Snuggle up in a yurt amidst scenic pastureland
• Explore the Silk Road relics and natural beauty of the Wakhan Corridor
• Saddle up to see the Pamir plateau on horseback
• Go hiking in the Fan Mountains, where you can wander among Tajik herders, lakes and wild goats

Wanderlust tips

Keep your documents handy as the military in all towns will be eager to vet your papers; there are numerous checkpoints, too. Arrive armed with small gifts to repay the Tajik hospitality you will undoubtedly encounter. Take a good first aid kit as you could find yourself a long way from medical facilities. A satellite phone is a must if you plan to head off into rural areas alone.

Further Reading

Travel in tajikistan: vital stats.

• Capital of Tajikistan: Dushanbe
• Population of Tajikistan: 7.3 million
• Languages in Tajikistan: Tajik, Russian, Uzbek
• Time in Tajikistan: GMT+5
• International dialling code for Tajikistan: +992
• Voltage in Tajikistan: 220V 50Hz AC
• Visas for Tajikistan: Tajikistan visas
• Money in Tajikistan: Somoni (TJS). There are ATMs in Dushanbe and Khojand but few in the rest of the country. Credit cards are accepted by a small number of hotels and services in Dushanbe, while travellers cheques are not accepted at all – you will need a ready supply of cash. US dollars are useful. Take newish notes as worn ones may pose a problem.
• Travel advice for Tajikistan: Foreign & Commonwealth Office
• Tajikistan tourist board: Tourist Development Center

When to go to Tajikistan

With 300 sunny days a year you would be hard pressed to pick a wrong time to visit, although the sweltering temperatures of around 40ºC in the summer months (June-September) don’t suit everybody. This is the best time to see the mountains but in early summer some river crossings can be dangerous. Winter temperatures between November and February hover around freezing in the capital but can plunge to between -20 and -40º C in the Pamirs. Some mountain passes are closed at this time. The best seasons are spring (March - May) and autumn (September-October). Spring is mild but wet and avalanches and landslides can leave roads impassable. Autumn is also mild and is perfect for trekking.

International airport

Dushanbe (DYU) 5 km from Dushanbe.

Getting around in Tajikistan

In the capital and large cities such as Khojand buses , minibuses and taxis are plentiful. Getting from A to B elsewhere is no mean feat. Trains run to some of the major destinations. Shared taxis and minibuses ply certain routes such as the run from Dushanbe to Khojand and Penjikent, and east to Khorog. Self-drive car hire is available though roads are bad, petrol stations are few and far between and there are no car recovery companies should you break down.

Tajikistan accommodation

With a minimal tourist infrastructure, choices are limited. Hotels and rented apartments are usually soulless former Soviet blocks. Instead, opt for a homestay with a Tajik family or a spell in a mountain yurt . You’ll get to glimpse how Tajiks live and dine like a king but facilities are usually pretty basic, with squat toilets and no running water.

Tajikistan food & drink

A traditional spread consists of dried fruit , sweets and nuts followed by soup , then meat and, finally, plov (fried rice, meat and chopped turnip or carrot). Meals are served with non (flatbread). Other specialties include qurotob (flaky bread coated in cheese ball liquid and topped with onions), mantu (steamed meat dumplings), sambusa (meat and onion pasty) and belyash (fried yeast case stuffed with minced meat). You’ll find plenty of dairy products, most commonly chaka (sour milk) and yoghurt , as well as an abundance of grapes and melons . Tea is served with meals, between meals and whenever else the occasion calls for it.

Health & safety in Tajikistan

On the whole Tajikistan is stable and relatively safe. You should be careful near the volatile Afghan border. Unexploded mines are a hazard along the Afghan, Uzbek and Kyrgyz borders and in the Tavildara region. Lone female travelers should be wary, particularly outside the cities. Medical facilities are poor and basic supplies are thin on the ground. Take precautions against TB, typhoid cholera, malaria and altitude sickness – consult your GP or travel health clinic well in advance of departure.

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Update April 12, 2024

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Tajikistan Travel Advisory

Travel advisory november 27, 2023, tajikistan - level 2: exercise increased caution.

Reissued after periodic review with updates to risk indicators, Level 3 areas, and the “If you decide to travel” section.

Exercise increased caution in Tajikistan due to terrorism, unexploded landmines, and occasional violence near the border with Kyrgyzstan . Some areas have increased risk. Read the entire Travel Advisory.

Reconsider travel to :

• Within five miles of Tajikistan’s border with Afghanistan
• Gorno-Badakhshon Autonomous Oblast

Country Summary: Terrorist organizations are known to have a presence in the region and have targeted foreigners and local authorities in the past.

Terrorist attacks can happen with little or no warning, with terrorists targeting public areas such as tourist locations, transportation hubs, markets/shopping malls, restaurants, places of worship, school campuses, and government facilities.

Unexploded landmines and cluster munitions are a hazard along the Afghan-Tajik and Uzbek-Tajik borders, as well as in the Vakhsh and Rasht valleys. Heed land mine warning signs. Do not venture off the road into areas marked with red and white plastic tape. Avoid roadside ditches, shoulders, and unmarked trails. Never touch anything resembling unexploded munitions.

Be cautious when traveling within five miles of the Tajikistan-Kyrgyzstan border . There have been several instances of armed skirmishes between Tajik and Kyrgyz border guards over the past five years, particularly in the Isfara area and the Vorukh enclave.

Read the country information page for additional information on travel to Tajikistan.

If you decide to travel to Tajikistan:

• Have a plan to depart Tajikistan which does not rely on U.S. government assistance.
• Keep a low profile.
• Be aware of your surroundings.
• Monitor local media for breaking events and be prepared to adjust your plans.
• Do not touch unknown metal objects and avoid traveling off well-used roads, tracks, and paths due to risk of unexploded ordnance.
• Enroll in the Smart Traveler Enrollment Program ( STEP ) to receive Alerts and make it easier to locate you in an emergency.
• Review the  Country Security Report  for Tajikistan.
• Follow the Department of State on   Facebook  and  Twitter .
• Visit the CDC page for the latest  Travel Health Information  related to your travel.
• Prepare a contingency plan for emergency situations. Review the  Traveler’s Checklist .

Border Areas with Afghanistan – Level 3: Reconsider Travel

Reconsider travel within five miles of Tajikistan's border   with Afghanistan due to terrorism. The current political situation in Afghanistan creates a challenging and unpredictable environment in the border areas due to evolving security conditions. Additionally, the land border between Tajikistan and Afghanistan has been closed since the Taliban takeover of Afghanistan in 2021. Travel in the mountainous region along the Afghan border can be dangerous due to the proximity of militant groups across the border. U.S. citizens should remain alert and avoid activities that develop predictable patterns of movement. If documenting travel on social media, please ensure your privacy settings are appropriately set.

Gorno-Badakhshon Autonomous Oblast (GBAO)– Level 3: Reconsider Travel

The challenging and unpredictable environment in northern Afghanistan has the potential to spill over insecurity into neighboring Tajikistan’s GBAO region. GBAO is a restricted region for non-Tajik citizens, requiring a travel permits from Tajik authorities. Violent clashes with security forces erupted in GBAO in recent years, and the government of Tajikistan can suspend travel permits for non-Tajik citizens on short notice. 

Please visit our website for information on Travel to High-Risk Areas .

Travel Advisory Levels

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Tajikistan Tours & Holidays

Whatever the yardstick – geographic, linguistic, cultural, historical, economic – Tajikistan’s a country that revels in the obscure.

Most locals speak Tajik, a modern Persian dialect in a region overwhelmingly Turkic; the landscape is absurdly altitudinous, its borders a result of arbitrary Soviet demarcations; the economy is propped up by overseas migrant remittances and illicit drug trafficking; and archaeological attractions run the gauntlet of Buddhist stupas, Silk Road bazaars and Zoroastrian ruins... What’s not to intrigue? Culturally captivating and naturally arresting, Tajikistan – arguably the Stans’ least developed land – is as enigmatic as countries come.

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Tajikistan at a glance

Capital city.

Tajikistani Somoni

Tajik, Russian

CALLING CODE

Electricity.

Type C (European 2-pin)

Learn more about Tajikistan

Best time to visit tajikistan.

With more than fifty per cent of the country sitting at over 3,000 metres above sea level, Tajikistan’s weather wavers between extremes. Pay a visit in winter (November–February) and you’ll be greeted by daytime temperatures that can dip below freezing, particularly along the Pamir Highway. Rock up during summer (June–September) and temperatures will likely climb to over 40°C (and be accompanied by dust storms) – though this is the best time for a trip into the mountains. Otherwise spring (March–May) or autumn (September–November) is the most pleasant times to travel. Light rains may still fall on occasion, but the days are sunny and warm, and the skies clear.

Geography and environment

While evidence of human habitation has been found in the region dating back as far as 4,000 BC, Tajikistan as we now know it only came into formation with the break-up of the Soviet Union in 1991. Prior to this, the region – defined by extreme isolation and testing climes – principally existed as one sprawling swathe of independent tribal lands and villages, regularly getting overrun and ruled by a series of empires, Achaemenid, Kushan, Arab, Tibetan and Mongolian, until Imperial Russia moved in. With the 1917 overthrow of Tsarist autocracy, a Central Asian independence movement called the basmachi sought to make the most of the disarray by waging war against the Bolsheviks to no avail – in 1924 the Tajik Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic was created as a part of Uzbekistan and the collectivisation of agriculture and implementation of other communist policies soon followed. The Tajiks suffered greatly under Soviet rule in the following decades, being targeted in purges, conscripted into the Soviet Army in World War II and lagging behind the other Soviet Republics in terms of industry and education. So when the Soviet Union collapsed in 1991, it looked like happy days were afoot. Unfortunately, this wasn’t the case. Split by various clan loyalties into numerous fighting factions, the country very soon plunged into civil war. By the time Emomalii Rahmon came to power in 1994, the number killed was estimated at over 100,000 and refugees numbered around 1.2 million. While his prime ministership and his party’s handling of democratic elections have not been without criticism, Rahmon has retained power through two successive elections.

Top 5 traditional Tajikistani fashions

1. traditional dress.

Having been segregated from the rest of Tajik society by bad weather and roads for much of their history, the people of the Pamir Mountains have developed a certain style of dress that can still be seen in the region. Among Pamiri women, this amounts to a flowing kaftan-like costume, usually white and narrowing at the waste, with sleeves closely fitted to the wrist. A red skullcap, called a toki, typically completes the ensemble.

2. Russian Dress

When the Soviets came to town, elements of Russian fashion were gradually adopted and incorporated into Tajikistani culture. Western-style dress is now fairly common among the younger generations in urban areas, but you’re bound to spot plenty of women garbed in colourful loose-fitting dresses highly decorated and elaborately embroidered. A kerchief or shawl usually goes on the head.

3. The Monobrow

Get ready, you might need to read this one again: monobrows are in. Yep, that’s right: monobrows. And not just among the men either. An emblem of prestige and beauty, they’re upheld as a sign of feminine purity, and women not fortunate enough to sprout one naturally will sometimes resort to daubing the space between their eyes with a local herb called usma. So don’t stress if you forget to pack the tweezers.

4. The Toki

Tajik men and women alike are big fans of the toki: a type of cap that varies in design between genders and regions. Among northern Tajiks, the crown of the cap can be flat, boxed or conical, whereas that of mountain dwellers and plainsmen more closely resembles a skullcap.

5. The Calf Cotton

Head into the Pamir Mountains and you’ll probably spot a few insanely fit-looking old dudes with long strips of cotton wound around their calves. This isn’t so much a fashion statement as a practical measure: tightly bound calves adds extra muscle support when traipsing up and down mountains. Give them a nod of respect. They’ve probably ambled in this morning from that distant peak way over yonder.

Further reading

Tajikistan travel faqs, do i need a covid-19 vaccine to join an intrepid trip.

Trips from 1 January 2023 onwards

From 1 January 2023, Intrepid will no longer require travellers to provide proof of vaccination against COVID-19 (excluding all Polar trips and select adventure cruises).

However, we continue to strongly recommend that all Intrepid travellers and leaders get vaccinated to protect themselves and others.

Specific proof of testing or vaccination may still be required by your destination or airline. Please ensure you check travel and entry requirements carefully.

Do I need to purchase travel insurance before travelling?

Absolutely. All passengers travelling with Intrepid are required to purchase travel insurance before the start of their trip. Your travel insurance details will be recorded by your leader on the first day of the trip. Due to the varying nature, availability and cost of health care around the world, travel insurance is very much an essential and necessary part of every journey.

For more information on insurance, please go to: Travel Insurance

Do I need a visa to travel to Tajikistan?

TAJIKISTAN VISA

All visitors to Tajikistan require a visa. You will need to obtain your visa & Gorno-Badakshan Autonomous Oblast (GBAO) permit online .

Below is the information required for filling out the application form:

GBAO Permit - Yes

Purpose of visit type - Tourism

Purpose of visit - Tourism sightseeing or Tourism vacation

Group identifier - leave blank

Date of arrival - Day 5 of your trip

Address in Tajikistan - This will be supplied at time of booking

Upload your scanned, colour passport copy (no other documents are required) and submit the form for payment. You will then receive a link to download your e-visa. Please ensure you print a copy to bring with you on your trip.

Is tipping customary in Tajikistan?

In restaurants and eateries, yes. A 10 per cent gratuity is the standard for a decent meal and adequate service.

What is the Internet access like in Tajikistan?

Internet cafes exist in the bigger cities, though don’t expect wireless connections available in hotels or cafes.

Can I use my mobile phone while in Tajikistan?

Roaming agreements are in place with most major international phone carriers, though coverage is mostly limited to urban areas.

What are the toilets like in Tajikistan?

Toilets in Tajikistan run the gamut of not-too-bad-at-all western-style toilets in plusher hotels and restaurants, very minimalist drop toilets everywhere else and ‘jeepers-creepers!’ in rural areas. Have emergency loo-paper with you wherever you go.

What will it cost for a…

Domestic 0.5 litre beer from a supermarket – 4.50 SM Cappuccino in a restaurant – 5.75 SM Three-course meal for two in a mid-range restaurant – 60 SM

Can I drink the water in Tajikistan?

No, Tajikistan’s tap water is non-purified and untreated. Stick to bottled water or fill a reusable canteen with the filtered water that will be available at some hotels. Also steer clear of ice in drinks and only eat fruit that can be peeled or vegetables that have been well-cooked.

Are credit cards accepted widely in Tajikistan?

No. Don’t bank on being able to use your credit cards for any transactions. Tajikistan is overwhelmingly a cash-based economy.

What is ATM access like in Tajikistan?

ATMs – accepting Visa, Mastercard and Maestro – can be found in the major cities of Dushanbe, Penjikent, Khujand, Khorog, Isfara, Istaravshan and Qurghon-Teppa, plus a few smaller places besides. Some dispense US dollars, which (along with euros) are widely accepted. Try to carry with you small denominations, as small change for small purchases is in short supply.

What public holidays are celebrated in Tajikistan?

• 1 Jan New Year's Day
• 8 Mar International Women's Day
• 21 Mar Navruz Celebration
• 1 May International Day of Solidarity
• 9 May Victory Day
• Idi Ramazon / Ramadan Celebration*
• Idi Ramazon / Ramadan Celebration Holiday*
• 9 Sep Independence Day
• Constitution Day*

*Please note these dates may vary. For a current list of public holidays in Tajikistan, go to

How do I stay safe and healthy while travelling?

Intrepid takes the health and safety of its travellers seriously and takes every measure to ensure that trips are safe, fun and enjoyable for everyone. We recommend that all travellers check with their government or national travel advisory organisation for the latest information before departure:

From Australia?

Go to: Smart Traveller

From Canada?

Go to:  Canada Travel Information

From the UK?

Go to:  UK Foreign Travel Advice

From New Zealand?

Go to:  Safe Travel

From the US?

Go to:  US Department of State

The World Health Organisation also provides useful health information.

Does my trip support The Intrepid Foundation?

Yes, all Intrepid trips support the Intrepid Foundation. Trips to this country directly support our global Intrepid Foundation partners Eden Reforestation Projects and World Bicycle Relief. Intrepid will double the impact by dollar-matching all post-trip donations made to The Intrepid Foundation.

Eden Reforestation Projects

Eden Reforestation Projects are helping to mitigate climate change by restoring forests worldwide; they also hire locally and create job opportunities within vulnerable communities. Donations from our trips support restoration across planting sites in 10 countries around the globe. Find out more or make a donation World Bicycle Relief

World Bicycle Relief provides people in low-income communities with bicycles to mobilise school kids, health workers, and farmers in far-out areas – giving them access to vital education, healthcare, and income. Donations help provide Buffalo Bicycles – specifically designed to withstand the rugged terrain and harsh environment of rural regions – to those who need them most. Find out more or make a donation

Britons warned of 'delays' getting home in the wake of 'nationwide issue' at UK airports

Britons going abroad have been urged to check travel advice

By Anna Barry

Published: 26/04/2024

Updated: 26/04/2024

All E-Gates at Passport Control in airports across the UK were affected

Don't miss, sat 27th apr 2024, donald trump says 'the case is over' as he heralds 'good day' in court, watch: knitters forced to cover up morris dancer dolls after complaints, brian may pens sweet tribute to wife anita dobson as he issues apology to fans: 'i'll be back', trans teacher leaves parents fuming after telling pupils: 'i've put makeup on and shaved', william brings home 'therapeutic' present for kate amid cancer treatment, uk weather freeze: britain set for arctic blast and snow flurries as mercury plunges to -4c, santander cuts interest rate on savings account in blow for customers, 'palace holds an unexploded bomb' claims royal expert after meghan markle bullying claims - 'witnesses were shaking with fear', trending on gb news, princess beatrice steps out with husband after weeks of turmoil.

Holidaymakers heading back to UK airports today may face delays, as easyJet issues a warning to travellers.

Britons flying home have been warned that the process of getting out of the airport may be more laborious than usual.

On easyJet's official website, the airline said: "We have been informed of a nationwide issue that is currently affecting all E-Gates at Passport Control in UK airports.

"UK Border Force is deploying all available resources to minimize queue times, however, there may be a delay between disembarking your plane and clearing passport control."

Britons were warned to expect delays

Queueing at airport

Electronic gates used to scan passports at UK airports were hit with a glitch on Thursday, April 25.

As a result, thousands of passengers were affected.

Early evening on April 25, Birmingham Airport said on X: "Arriving into #BHX, the @ukhomeoffice e-Gates are currently out of service due to a technical issue across the country. Please use the desks within the Immigration Hall only."

A few hours later, BHX reassured travellers: "We can now confirm that the below issue is resolved."

London Stansted also shared a similar message and later confirmed that the problem was fixed.

Last night, a disgruntled passenger at Heathrow Airport took to X: " Huge queue at @HeathrowAirport for @UKBorder. Apparently, E-gates have failed again UK-wide. #brokenbritain."

One X user agreed: "Dislike! I always dread something like this happening, especially after a long-haul flight."

easyJet offered some advice to a passenger concerned about the delays.

One holidaymaker asked on X: "@easyJet hey. I fly from Birmingham airport on Monday morning. I’ve heard about the security delays. Will bag check-in be extended to three hours before flight time or will it stay at two?"

A spokesperson from the airline responded: "Bag drop will still open two hours to departure.

LATEST DEVELOPMENTS

• Italy holidays to become more expensive from today as popular city introduces new tax
• Holiday hell as 2,000 flights cancelled with easyJet, Ryanair and BA affected
• Britons issued travel warning as cases of 'potentially life-threatening' disease rise

Electronic gates used to scan passports at UK airports were hit with a glitch

GETTY IMAGES

"I recommend you check the flight information and status on our flight tracker."

In recent travel news, Heathrow Airport has issued an alert to holidaymakers .

The major travel hub warned Britons: "Border Force officers at Heathrow plan to strike from Monday, April 29 to Thursday, May 2."

While most journeys should be "unaffected", Britons may experience longer queue times.

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My four-day rail and ferry adventure from the UK to Albania

From London to Tirana, via Chambéry’s medieval streets, bustling Bari and Albania’s dynamic capital, this trip across Europe has treats at every turn

M y overriding memories of crossing countries by train, on a trip from London to Albania, are of half-empty carriages and countryside sweeping past windows bathed in the soft orange glow of sunset. I remember cypress trees, red-roofed villages with square churches, farmland in neat strips and row upon row of vineyards.

On my London-Paris-Chambéry-Turin-Bari-Tirana journey over land and sea, there was, for long stretches, little to do. The wifi was patchy. It took a while to adapt to having so much time to simply watch the world go by, travelling through landscapes without having to navigate them.

The biggest stress happened long before I set off, when a landslide not far from the French border with Italy blocked the rail line between Chambéry and Turin, forcing a closure that continues today. Byway, the no-fly operator I had booked with, offered to reroute me through Nice and on to Turin via the Vermenagna valley (with changes in Tende and Cuneo), or book me on the FlixBus service over part of the Mont Blanc massif. I was keen to see Chambéry and the Alps, so I chose the bus.

People seemed surprised when I told them I was travelling overland to Albania. As I gushed about the romance of slow travel by train and sleeper ferry, and my excitement about Tirana, I got comments about being “brave”. I didn’t feel especially brave: all the planning, tickets and hotel bookings were done for me, and friendly help was a WhatsApp call away if needed.

I just had to download the Rail Planner app for my Interrail pass and make sure I was at the right station at the right time (Turin was the biggest challenge: it has four main railway stations and taxis scream between them bearing anxious-looking passengers).

The entire journey took four days. If I did it all again, I’d stay longer in Puglia, the heel of Italy’s boot – and remember to buy my Paris Métro ticket from the cafe on the Eurostar.

Day one: London to Chamb éry

First to Paris’s Gare du Nord, then the metro to Gare de Lyon, where I make a beeline for a cafe opposite the station. Noise pervades the pavement tables of Café Terminus, but the cacophony is delightful – an atmospheric place for a citron pressé .

I’m in plenty of time for the train to Chambéry and, excitingly, am on the upper deck. Soon, we break free from the suburbs to trace huge stands of forest. Beyond Lyon begins a ripple of hills, lazy rivers and thickly forested slopes. As evening approaches, it’s all Alpine scenery. I arrive at an almost-empty station and walk to the boutique Hotel des Princes in Chambéry’s old town.

Chambéry has an Italian feel – it was the seat of the House of Savoy before the dynasty moved on to Turin – and its medieval alleys, cathedral and pastel-coloured townhouses are quietly impressive. The 1838 Fontaine des Éléphants sits in the middle of the closest square to the old town, and peeking from the end of every street are the Bauges and Chartreuse mountain ranges. My stay is peaceful and easy.

Day two: Chamb éry to Turin

From Chambéry, the train to Turin would take about 2½ hours, but the bus takes double this. I’m on the top deck again, which is worth it for the sight of misty fingers of early morning light breaking across the mountain ridge. Snoozing backpackers rouse themselves to snap pictures of remote Mont Blanc peaks, before slumbering once more through the tunnel to Italy. In Turin there’s perfume in the air from the blossom-covered trees.

Turin’s grid of long, straight boulevards is testament to its development by the Romans – the redbrick Palatine Gate is another Roman relic – and its grand piazzas, royal palaces and graffitied colonnades date from the city’s Savoy heyday in the 16th and 17th centuries. Today, the number one attraction is the Museo Egizio (Egyptian Museum).

My favourite moments? Ricotta and fig ice-cream on Piazza San Carlo, an aperitivo on off-the-beaten-path Via Sant’Agostino and the towering neoclassical Mole Antonelliana (national museum of cinema). I eat Turin’s famous doughy pizza al padellino (pan pizza) and spend a comfortable night in the eaves of Hotel Urbani in 19th-century residential streets close to the grand Porta Nuova train station.

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Day three: Turin to Bari

The views from my next train are of cinematic Tuscan scenes. Scorched fields, vines and Italian cypress trees. Neat red roofs and shabby-chic farmhouses. Fluffy clouds cling to hills that Google Maps tells me are the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines. After hours of soothing golden landscapes, the opal-blue Adriatic wallops into view just north of Ancona. Beach bars whip by and cypress trees are replaced with palm trees: I’ve arrived in the south of Italy.

Bari is hands down my favourite stop. The noise, heat and energy as we step off the train in the early evening are joyous. After Chambéry and Turin, Bari feels brash, a little rough around the edges even; a proper port city. The labyrinthine alleyways of the whitewashed old town are almost cliched in their cuteness. Despite the troupes of tightly packed headphone-wearing Americans following guided tours, it somehow manages to retain a tranquil atmosphere.

Old ladies yawn from the shade as tourists surreptitiously snap pictures and laundry flutters from balconies. I could stay for ever, but after 24 hours (which includes a lot of pasta, a stroll along the posh promenade to the not-so-posh city beach and a night in an elegant aparthotel, Residence Zodiacus , halfway between the station and the old town), it’s time to board the night ferry to Albania.

Day (and night) four: Bari to Tirana

I arrive at the ferry on foot and am escorted through the car deck to jokes about going in the wrong direction (to Albania, instead of from it). In the early morning I spot a pink sky through the cracked window of my comfy en suite cabin, and head to the top deck to see the sun rise over the distant outline of Albania. Disembarking in the port of Durrës is a bit of a scrum and there’s a bus to the capital waiting, but I opt instead for a five-minute taxi ride to the centre of town and breakfast of pastries and espresso on a dazzling white road lined with boutiques and palm trees. I later regret this though, as the aircon on the grubby public bus I eventually take to Tirana is more tired than I am, and drops me in an urban sprawl miles from the centre.

Tirana itself is a revelation. My hotel, Padam Boutique , is a grand villa with handsome rooms and floor-to-ceiling windows, and there’s striking new skyward architecture on every nearby street. A short stroll away is the landmark Pyramid of Tirana , which stands as a symbol and monument to change (and is fun to climb at sunset). Skanderbeg Square – a jumble of buildings erected on a roundabout at the time of the celebrations to mark the fall of communism in 1992 – is now a pedestrianised, glossy public space. There are nods to Albania’s recent, wretched history behind the iron curtain, of course – the Bunk’Art and Bunk’Art 2 museums, in nuclear bunkers are unmissable – but Tirana and the country are more than just the last century. My journey is done, but it feels like Tirana is just getting into its stride.

The trip was provided by Byway , which offers sustainable travel and accommodation packages across the UK and Europe. Its Alps to Albania trip costs from £679pp

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• Transport planning

National Travel Survey mid-year estimates

The survey collects information on how, why, when and where people travel. The mid-year estimates provide faster indicators for key tables.

National Travel Survey mid-year data tables

The mid-year estimates provide faster indicators for key tables and include data for 12-month periods from July to June.

NTSMY0101: Trips, distance travelled and time taken: England, year ending June 2023 ( ODS , 7.24 KB )

NTSMY0303: Average number of trips, stages, miles and time spent travelling by mode: England, year ending June 2023 ( ODS , 12.4 KB )

NTSMY0403: Average number of trips, miles and time spent travelling by trip purpose: England, year ending June 2023 ( ODS , 11.7 KB )

NTSMY0409: Average number of trips and distance travelled by purpose and main mode: England, year ending June 2023 ( ODS , 13.4 KB )

NTSMY0601: Average number of trips, stages and distance travelled by sex, age and mode: England, year ending June 2023 ( ODS , 33 KB )

NTSMY0611: Average number of trips and distance travelled by sex, age and purpose: England, year ending June 2023 ( ODS , 24 KB )

NTSMY9903: Average number of trips by main mode, region and rural-urban classification of residence: England, year ending June 2023 ( ODS , 14.4 KB )

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