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Colu Henry’s Long Weekend of French Brasseries and Wine Bars in Montreal

Plus calder exhibits, park walks, and pet-friendly hotels..

Everyone knows that person who spends weeks sniffing around travel blogs, going deep into Tripadvisor rabbit holes, collecting Google docs from friends of friends, and creating  A Beautiful Mind– style spreadsheets to come up with the best  vacations and itineraries possible. In this recurring series, we find the people who’ve done all the work for you and have them walk us through a particularly wonderful, especially well-thought-out vacation they took that you can actually steal.

Food writer and recipe developer Colu Henry makes the four-hour drive to Montreal from her Hudson Valley home three or four times a year. Her husband, Chad, is Canadian (he’s from Ontario originally), and that’s what first lured her to the city. “For a long time he was like, ‘I really think you’re going to love Montreal,’ and we finally went, and he was right,” admits Henry. “I’m really crazy about Montreal now. If I can’t get to Europe, I feel like I can go to Montreal and get a fix.” Besides affording her the opportunity to practice what she says is her terrible French — “You can definitely get by with English, but I always love to commit!” — Henry is particularly fond of the city’s vibrant food scene and, specifically, its top-notch hospitality. “The hospitality there is incredible; everyone really cares,” she adds.

High praise coming from Henry, someone who knows a thing or two about hospitality; she is a consummate and constant entertainer (and, it should be added, always dresses incredibly for it, red lipstick included), and much of her excellent new cookbook , Colu Cooks: Easy Fancy Food — with chapters such as “Seven Fish, No Feast” and “To Feed a Crowd” — is devoted to making us all into more well-equipped cooks and hosts. On her most recent trip to Montreal, Henry and her husband brought along friends Helen and Dan plus their constant travel companion, their rescue dog, Josh. Here, the details of a trip measured in meals.

2 p.m.: Choose the best pet-friendly lodging on HotelTonight.

Montreal is only a four-hour drive from Hudson, where we live, so we can pretty much pick up and go with little notice. We have a 19-year-old rescue dog named Josh who comes with us pretty much everywhere. If you drive, there isn’t much street parking, so most people use the underground parking garages, but they can be a maze, and you will have no cell service down there; we’ve gotten lost in them twice. Montreal is a very accessible city with easy public transport and a great subway, if you’re not driving. I’m nearly at level 19 on HotelTonight — that’s pretty high up there, if I do say so myself — so we’re likely to grab a room at whatever pet-friendly hotel looks the nicest.

Le Saint-Sulpice, Hotel Monville, and Hotel Gault, where we stayed on this visit, are all lovely. The Hotel Gault is industrial and lofty and, most important, pet friendly and in Old Montreal. I like staying in Old Montreal because of the charm factor. It’s fun to wander the cobblestone streets and take in the architecture. Our best friends, Helen and Dan, came with us this trip. Helen had never been before, so I was excited to show her all my favorite spots.

4 p.m.: Get to the wine bar early.

We dropped our bags and headed directly to Vin Papillon ( 2519 Notre-Dame St. W. ) to be there right when it opened at five. It gets crazy there, and I need to make sure I get my fix in! It’s a wine bar from the Joe Beef team, and it is so very good. For a long time, you couldn’t make reservations, and while you can now, we usually go on the early side so we can eat more than we ought to. The menu changes frequently, but it always has the smoked ham with Parmesan and butter, and you must start with that and then order many, many things. We had these insane scallops from New Brunswick, which has these beautiful medium-size scallops that are supersweet and delicate in flavor. They also have really pretty shells. We then let the servers pick all our wines by the glass. In Canada, every province has its own liquor council, and the one for Quebec has the best wine selection. The people working at Vin Papillon are the most friendly, and it’s always so fun to let them do their thing and go with the flow.

8 p.m.: Uber to another wine spot — or back to the hotel.

Depending on how tired we are, we might Uber across town to Vin Mon Lapin (150 Rue St.-Zotique E. ) or any number of the amazing wine bars near it for more drinks and more nibbles. But on this trip, we went straight back to the hotel because we were so full. Then — I have no idea why — I ordered a terrible pizza to the hotel room. I wasn’t even hungry, but we ate it!

9 a.m.: Pick up flat whites and walk to the park.

When we stay at the Hotel Gault, I immediately run to Structure Roasters — Structure Torréfacteurs ( 460 McGill St. ) for a flat white to start off the day. We took our coffees over to Mount Royal Park for a quick morning walk. It overlooks the city, and it’s so beautiful any time of the year but especially in the fall.

Noon: Settle in for a long Parisian-style lunch.

Then we headed to my favorite restaurant in the world: L’Express ( 3927 St. Denis St. )! This place is just so magical, and I had the foresight to make a reservation because it gets pretty crazy otherwise. It is the best place to feel as though you’re transported to Paris. And I love a long, boozy lunch. When it’s just Chad and me, we sit at the bar — I could sit at that bar all day (a mention of it even made it into the introduction of my new book) — but since there are four of us, we get a table. Helen and I love a shrimp cocktail, and it happened to be a special, so we started with that. I always order the steak frites. Pre-pandemic, they kept these epic jars of cornichons and jars of mustard on the table, and they just returned!

We drank a few bottles of wine, and a server in training spilled wine on Chad. We didn’t care and tried to cover for her because we’ve all been there, but the server in charge would not have it, and it turned into a hilarious back-and-forth that ended with a gratis dessert of île flottante with caramel. There is no messing around with that service! I also had a Spanish coffee, which, for the uninitiated, is coffee with whipped cream and Tía Maria.

3 p.m.: Get a blowout then sip some bubbles.

Helen convinced me to get a blowout post lunch, so we ran to Salon Le Tube ( 444 Ste. Hélène St. ) across from the hotel. The owner, Pal, was incredibly funny and wouldn’t give me a blowout unless I agreed to a trim, so I also had an impromptu haircut. He was amazing, and I would go back to see him in a heartbeat. While we primped, the boys got a bottle of Champagne, so we had a glass in our room before heading back out on the town.

6 p.m. Overorder pizza and pasta and wine.

Because we head to Montreal so often, I’ve become pals with Lawrence Fiset (Larry), who runs the wine program at Elena and recently opened Gia Vin & Grill ( 1025 Rue Lenoir ), which I haven’t been to yet but am dying to go to. Elena is a must-stop for us every visit, so I wanted Dan and Helen to experience it. The pizzas and pastas are just amazing. We certainly overordered, but some standouts were the passion patate with comtomme cheese, garlic and rosemary, the Diavoli 2.0 pizza, which had salami, pepperoni, and buffalo-milk mozzarella, and the mafalda ragu, a beef and pork sugo. Wine-wise, you cannot go wrong. I like to share a price range and put the server in charge of picking what they think is best. It’s more fun that way, and you get to try lots of different things. It always feels like coming home here.

10 a.m.: Start at the pub then get in some shopping.

Helen is English, and there was a pub near the hotel, so we started the day off at Pub Saint Pierre ( 410 Rue Saint-Pierre) , watching some football. We all had a few beers, and by 11 a.m., it was packed. The weather was pretty rainy, so we spent the rest of the afternoon strolling around town and popping into shops to stay dry. Swell and Ginger ( 231 Notre-Dame St. W. ) has some beautiful items. I had my eye on a few bags in the store (they have a great selection) but, in the end, didn’t purchase anything. Helen picked up a very chic Schnayderman’s toque, though.

1 p.m.: See a Calder.

We did a short pop into the the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts ( 1380 Sherbrooke St. W. ). There was an incredible Alexander Calder exhibition happening. Then, on the way home, we popped into Pullman ( 3424 Park Ave. ) for a quick glass of afternoon wine and a snack.

6 p.m. Share a seafood tower and pork filet.

After yesterday’s extravaganza, we wanted to stay pretty close to home, and luckily Place Carmin ( 740 William St . ) was a short walk away. It’s a newish French brasserie from Mélanie Blanchette and chef François Nadon, the owners of the Quartier des Spectacles stalwarts Bouillon Bilk ( 1595 St. Laurent Blvd. ), and Cadet ( 1431 St. Laurent Blvd. ). It was in this industrial building with superhigh ceilings and was so sleek and beautiful. Helen and I had to order the seafood tower, and we shared the ​​pork filet with rösti, red cabbage, and the cavatelli with pancetta, mushrooms, and Parmesan. Everything was lovely.

10 a.m.: Grab one last Bloody Mary before hitting the road.

Sadly, we have to head back to Hudson — but not without a stop at Beauty’s Luncheonette ( 93 Mont-Royal Ave. W. ) for a bite before we hit the highway. This old-school diner has been around since 1942! It’s amazing. I had a tuna melt and a Bloody Mary, which came with all the accoutrements to make it the way you like it. I like mine with a little bit of horseradish, hot sauce, a good few splashes of tomato juice, and always a squeeze of lemon. Limes are not for me when drinking a Bloody Mary.

Noon: And pick up bagels for back home.

And one last stop! A short drive from Beauty’s is St-Viateur Bagel (1127 Mont-Royal Ave. E.) , so we pick up wood-oven bagels — everything bagels always — to freeze until our next trip. Montreal-style bagels are crunchier and crispier and not as doughy as a regular bagel, with a better texture and deeper color. They are truly the best bagels in the world.

Colu’s Montreal packing list

I have so many different shades and brands in my bag. Putting on a red lip immediately perks me up. Right now, I’m especially into Ilia’s True Red.

Most moisturizers are too big and clunky to pack — this oil is the perfect size. I put it on my face after a shower. It makes my skin silky and dewy, which is always needed after traveling.

They are incredibly elegant and don’t wrinkle when packed, and they’re perfect for dressing up or dressing down. Bonus is their insanely long inseam, which I need!

I feel glamorous every time I put them on. And we’ve been through a lot together. They have been lost and found so many times I can’t even count. I’m grateful we’re still together.

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3 Days in Montréal, Canada

By Katherine LaGrave

Though it may be 125 years older than the country it calls home, these days, Montréal dazzles with a new energy. Its restaurants draw discerning (some may say snobby?) New Yorkers who will happily fly an hour and a half just to eat for a weekend. The city is close (and compact) enough to tackle in three days—be it on foot, along Old Montréal's cobblestoned streets, or in a quick Uber to the top of Mount Royal. Here's how to make the most of your long weekend to Québec’s biggest city.

Checking In

A Canadian grande-dame without parallel, the The Ritz-Carlton, Montréal opened in 1912 and was the very first hotel in North America to bear the Ritz-Carlton name. It underwent a four-year, $200 million facelift, completed in 2012, and the result remains understated and elegant—now with tech upgrades like light motion sensors and heated floors, all on a prime location on the Golden Mile. (We’ll forgive you for staying in and sipping at the Dom Pérignon Champagne Bar in the famed Palm Court.) For something more contemporary, try the Hôtel Nelligan , a state-of-the-art hotel in Montréal's arts district consisting of three stone-and-masonry 19th-century buildings. Guest rooms with exposed-brick walls come with cherry-wood furnishings; writings by the French-Canadian poet Émile Nelligan appear in paintings throughout.

Day 1: Historic Montreal

Vieux-Montréal is the Montréal pictured on most postcards—and for good reason. Begin your day at Olive et Gourmando , which draws crowds with its tartines, chia bowls, and poached eggs. If you don’t want to wait for table service, squeeze past the line (and trust us—there will be one) and grab a raisin scone or Gruyère sesame croissant to go instead. Then walk north along Rue Saint-Paul O and hang a left on Rue Saint-Sulpice to arrive at the Gothic Revival Notre-Dame Basilica , a famed church built in the 1820s known for its century-old Casavant Frères pipe organ, stained glass depicting Montreal’s religious history, and brilliant blue ceiling. Admission is $6 CAD (about $4.70), but free, 20-minute tours of the cathedral in English and French are offered every 15 minutes—and they’re excellent.

Continue walking north, stopping at Place Jacques-Cartier for a drink at the flower-filled terrace of Jardin Nelson . Next, duck into the nearby Château Ramezay , a National Historic Site of Canada housed in the former estate of Montreal’s governor, where visitors can learn about the city’s more than 500 years of history. (Budget at least an hour and a half.) Hungry? Rest your legs—and satisfy your appetite—at Stash Café , which is a ten-minute walk south. You’ll want to Instagram the interiors (think beams, brick, and church pews functioning as seats), but you’ll no doubt put your phone away when the food—traditional Polish—comes out: We’re partial to the kielbasa, sledz (pickled herring), and golabki (cabbage rolls filled with pork and rice), but there are very few wrong orders here. Once you’re feeling fortified, walk a few minutes east along Rue de Callière to the Pointe-à-Callière , a sprawling archaeological site and museum built on the spot where Montreal was first established in 1642. It sums up nicely all the city history you've been seeing on foot today.

Time to eat again! For Québécois dishes like foie gras terrine, venison carpaccio, and squab with wild rice, nab an early table at Toqué! , which was recently named Canada’s second-best restaurant (after Alo in Toronto); reservations very much recommended.

Jean-Talon, one of the oldest and largest markets in North America.

Day 2: A Good Old-Fashioned Food Crawl

Start with a hand-rolled bagel (or two) from St-Viateur Bagel , a Mile End neighborhood fixture since 1957 that remains open 24 hours a day, seven days a week, and even counts Quebecois singer Celine Dion among its fans. There aren’t many places to eat in the shop, so take your goods to Mount Royal, Montreal’s namesake and a year-round, 200-hectare public park that towers over the city. Walking to the summit of Mount Royal will take you about 45 minutes from its base, but we won’t judge if you Uber it up there instead. Allot at least an hour to sit and enjoy the views, and add on another half hour, at least, to explore the park, which was designed by landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted, who is also credited with creating a little place called Central Park .

Down the hill, 24-hour poutine palace La Banquise and smoked meat heaven Schwartz’s may beckon, but we suggest your next stop be Rotisserie Romados , a no-frills Portuguese pit stop in Le Plateau-Mont Royal: the tender, flame-licked chicken served with fries and a vinegar-based sauce will put your regular rotisserie bird to shame. Once you’ve, uh, licked your fingers, order several housemade—and still warm!— pastéis de nata for the road. Head 30 minutes west on the #30, #55, or #2 bus to Little Italy and hop off at Jean-Talon , one of North America’s largest public markets. (It’s also accessible from from the blue line's De Castelnau Métro station.) Brush up on your French, mingle with Montrealers buying their local groceries, and pick up edible souvenirs like cured fennel sausages ( Les Cochons Tout Ronds ), creamy Quebec cheese ( Fromagerie Hamel ), and maple syrup (the market’s west side).

María Casbas

Jessica Chapel

Madison Flager

If you have time, head to Birra Bar à Bières Maison to sample some of Montreal’s best craft brews; if not, dive right into dinner at the 30-seat Provisions 1268 in Outremont. Control freaks will have to surrender to the whim of the chef, who, each night, designs five- or seven-course meals based on what was best at the market at that day (a peek at the chalkboard will tell you what was purchased). Cocktails here are solid, but don’t quit here—instead, end your day where you started it, in nearby Mile End. Take a car to Bar Henrietta , a slick bar inspired by Portuguese taverns of the 1960s. As the night goes on, the music gets louder, so if you want to party, reports Traveler ’s Mary Holland, you know where to stay.

Day 3: Flora, Fauna, and French-Italian Food

You’re probably taking it easier today, and we don’t blame you. Sleep in, but once you’re ready to move, forego that hotel breakfast and hold out for caffeine at Paquebot in the Rosemont–La Petite-Patrie neighborhood. Best known for being the first place to serve nitro cold brew in Montreal, the coffee shop also turns out that-sounds-so-strange-I’m-not-sure-it-will-work drinks including curry ginger lattes and cold brew with tonic, rhubarb, and lemon. From there, hop in a car for the ten-minute trip to the Montreal Botanical Garden , where you'll need two hours to stretch your legs across the 185 acres and ten greenhouses, each dedicated to a specific theme.

Come lunchtime, secure a spot at neighborhood joint Le Saint-Jacques, a family-run restaurant that dishes out housemade, unpretentious Italian and French dishes in a way that actually works—think veal meatballs and manicotti next to duck confit. Sated, hop on the Métro at Cadillac stop, and take the green line south toward Angrignon, changing to the southbound orange line at Berri-UQAM. Get off at the Place-d'Armes, and walk to the Old Port to board the Petit Navire II , which runs tours of the 150-year-old Lachine Canal from the beginning of July to the end of August every summer. The tour takes approximately two hours, which means by the end of it—when you reach the celebrated Atwater Market —you may even be hungry again. If you'd rather just have a drink, switch boats and descend onto the Canal Lounge, a permanently moored 42-year-old glass-top boat that opens for the season on May 27. Savor a Caesar (like a Bloody Mary, but with Clamato) and come dinner time, head back uptown to Bouillon Bilk , one of Canada's best restaurants: Inside the spare, industrial space, plates are thoughtful and refined, and include rabbit with pistachios, ras-el-hanout, and potatoes; and cappelletti with foie gras, sweetbreads, pecans, and maple.

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Hôtel Place d'Armes

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Best Times To Visit Montreal

The best times to visit Montréal are from March to May and from September to November, when the weather is milder and hotel vacancies run amok. But aside from fluctuating rates, you'll discover that there really isn't a bad time to vacation here. Warm summer temperatures make exploring on foot much more enjoyable, while the heated Underground City passages provide refuge during the winter. If you are drawn to the temperate summer, make sure to book in advance: Montréal hosts numerous popular festivals during this season.

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