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• CX Horizontal Sliding Dropout Kit

Trek CX Horizontal Sliding Dropout Kit

Get back on the road with a quality replacement hanger. - Attachment hardware is sold separately - For specific compatibility concerns, please contact our Customer Service team Specifications: - Size: Rear kit, 142x12mm Thru Axle - Mounting location: Rear kit - Attachment: Thru axle nut

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Sliders or horizontal dropouts? Pros and cons.

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Okay, I imagine this has been done before, but I am getting close to having a frame built to order and am curious as to whether a slider type dropout like Paragon, or horizontal dropout aka track ends would provide the best power transfer and wheel security? I'm 5' 11" and 210 lbs and like shorter steep climbs and descents as we have in the Midwest. Of course, sliders can be switched to multi speed and also any wheel can be used with some spacers and a cog. However, there are times when I swear the rear wheel is flexing since it's hanging down below the frame on the sliders... anybody else feel that?  

The best is an EBB IMO. I've had and have them all. Track ends - are simplest and lightest. But there's faff involved every time you replace a wheel because you need to get your wheel properly aligned and you also need to check your disk (not a problem once you are used to it). It's the perfect set up for a fixed wheel bike though and is the lightest. Sliders - in theory set and forget, but have been known to move. What you have to watch for is the lefthand slider moving forward under braking. It was a major problem with the early On-One Inbreds of over 10 years ago. Ideally there should be a backward tensioner on that side. Design, ie position of the brake calliper helps. Removing any paint between the slider and the frame also helps if you get a problem with movement. It needs care in initial setup to ensure the wheel is properly aligned. Sliders have the benefit of being future proof - you can swap out your dropouts. I've had problems with On-One and Voodoo (solved by paint removal and rigging up reverse tensioners on the lhs) but none with Kona and Ragley TD-1. Eccentric Bottom Brackets (EBBs) are best IMO. A clean simple backend and the wheels are always parallel, and it is set and forget. It helps if the manufacturer has experience with these, some use too thin a shell so gorilla mechanics can over tighten the EBB and slightly ovalise the shell. Then you have a permanent problem of creaking and slippage which can only be fixed by more over tightening. I've found the EBBS on Singulars to be very good, and I've never had a problem with my Avanti (a NZ design) which looks like it comes from the same factory as the Raleigh version.  

Four bikes with sliders never a problem. One with an EBB and nothing but issues. Anything but set and forget. Unless by that you mean set and forget for 20 miles until is starts to creak and moan and loosen. Then set and forget again. And again. And again. I haven't had to do anything to the sliders on my SSCX bike in probably 500 miles. As with anything....YMMV.  

I prefer my Unit's sliders to my Chameleon's EBB. Maybe a higher quality EBB would be more robust...  

Track ends are a pain for pretty much everything. Even worse than getting the wheel straight, is aligning the disc brakes. So if this is between (good) sliders and track ends, it's no contest, sliders. EBB vs Slider is pretty much the same argument against both. Crappy examples of each one are pretty horrible. Good examples of each one are pretty good. As mentioned with EBB you don't have to worry about aligning the wheel. You don't have to worry about CS length effectively changing if you have to re-tension the chain. But with a slider you can add a link or take a link out and intentionally run your CS longer or shorter to affect handling how you'd like it. I guess the bottom line is, no matter which you get, if you buy a quality example, you'll have a good time.  

My top pick is Paragon rockers/swingers. I just had a custom frame built and wanted sliders. After talking to the builder and explaining that I broke a few frames last year, he recommended swingers as their the most stout. I'm happy he steered me in that direction. I'm just over 200 lbs, if your bigger or just want the most stout setup, I'd look into these. I wouldn't want an EBB for anything. Or a PF anything for that matter. Threaded BB's are simple and effective, and quiet. SS's are supposed to be simple, why complicate it unnecessarily? Not to mention your moving your BB and thus your relationship from the pedal to your saddle, and the pedal to the ground.  

After about 6 months of use sliders have been utterly set and forget for me. My only complaint is the sliding surfaces have developed a patina of rust and I don't know what to do about it. I tried cotton swabs of grease and wd40 but it's just an exposed surface, and right by the brakes.  

I have used both "track ends" and paragon sliders. Paragon sliders work perfect and easy to deal with rear wheel removal and not mess with chain tension. my sliders also have hanger for a derailleur if I want to run one. The bike with track ends was always a pain to get lined up right keep chain tension. Never tried EBB, but always heard mixed results from them. Creaks and getting loose.  

Sliders all day, everyday. I'll stop riding single speed before I ever do EBB again.  

I'm with *OneSpeed*, Paragon rockers or the Pivot tensioner mechanism. Order of preference for me: Paragon rockers (or the one Pivot uses which is very similar) Sliders EBB Track Ends  

I have very little experience with an eccentric BB, as I just bought a used Raleigh xxix frame a month ago. So far it was easy to adjust and has made no noise whatsoever. I much prefer it to the horizontal dropouts on the previous frame because it's so much easier to drop the wheel out and reinstall it without brake alignment issues. A bit off topic, but is there any maintenance I should do with the EBB or should I just be happy as long as it's quiet?  

scottg said: should I just be happy as long as it's quiet? Click to expand...

I've had 3 Kona's with sliders now, haven't had a problem with any of them. It's basically set and forget. Unless you are changing your chain tension, there's no need to fiddle with them.  

Lots of great input here, guys - thanks! I've had 4 bikes with horizontal track ends, so, used to their quirks, 2 or 3 with sliders and the Paragon versions were the best of that style....just always felt that bolting the end of the frame to the frame was weaker and more prone to slippage, and flex. On super steep high torque terrain I would get the wheel to slip forward on the drive side on rare occasions with sliders. And I felt like the bike didn't have 100% take off of a good solid track end frame? Maybe Pargon swingers would be the answer.... I'm having a Rock Lobster built for me in a couple more months and the advice here is great! Keep the opinions and discussion going!  

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Trek 1120 Review: Footsteps of Giants

The Trek 1120 follows in the same 29+ tracks that many bikepacking-specific rigs forged ahead of it, but this bike cuts its own trail with an innovative front rack, a thoughtfully designed rear harness system, and surprising trail prowess… all at a lighter weight than we expected. We’ve been quietly testing one over the last few months; here’s the full review.

With additional photos and insight by Ryan Sigsbey

With multiple companies creating bikepacking-specific bikes around the 29+ platform, it’s as if bikepacking has an official tire size. Bear in mind, big wagon wheels aren’t for everyone, and there are plenty of 27.5+ bikepacking rigs too, but it’s no surprise that this legacy continues to thrive… for plenty of reasons we’ve already covered within this site. It all started with the Krampus in 2012, and then came the Surly ECR , which was sort of the first big-tired purpose built bikepacking bike. It was only a matter of time before others created variations on the theme: The Chumba Ursa 29+ , the Carver Gnarvester , Salsa’s Deadwood and Woodsmoke , the Bombtrack Beyond ADV , and the Why Wayward . There are a few others as well, and probably more to come.

• Frame/Fork: Aluminum/Carbon
• Seatpost: 31.6mm
• Bottom Bracket: PressFit 92
• Hub specs: 148 x 12mm (R); 110x15mm (F)
• Max tire: 29×3″
• Weight (L w/racks): 29.4 lbs (13.3 kg)
• Price: $2,499

Following suit, the 1120 was a natural progression for Trek. The Wisconsin based titan has a longstanding history of making bikes in the adventure travel and touring category. First the 520 and 720 touring bikes became classics back in the early 80s. Then Trek found success with its more recent gravel and dirt-drop tourer, the Trek 920 . It only made sense to add a couple hundred to the naming schema for a big-tired bikepacking rig. And this they did with a bang, creating a 29+ rig that is quite a departure from all the rest, even their own Stache .

Before we dig in, let me clarify the nature of this review. I’ve had this bike since August, but an injury/surgery/recovery kept me off of it for a couple of months. Then I got about a dozen rides in with it and had a bit of a relapse… from which I am still recovering. So, I enlisted the help of Ryan Sigsbey , a friend, photographer, bikepacker, and creator of the Trans-WNC . Ryan took it for a week or so, gave it a few rides and took it on a bikepacking trip to add his perspective. As such, this isn’t a long term review. Instead you’ll find an in depth analysis and a couple different perspectives regarding our experiences using it, comparisons, technical details… and, as usual, plenty of photos (don’t miss the new carousel galleries).

Newfangled Racks

There’s a lot to talk about with this bike, so let’s start with the 1120’s two most prominent features, the bright orange tangles of metal at its fore and aft. These proprietary aluminum racks provide a very stable platform for strapping all sorts of gear. They also eliminate the need for a standard seat pack and handlebar roll by offering innovative means of attaching equipment and drybags to the bike. In general, they allow the bike to carry more stuff than with a standard bikepacking setup.

The Front ‘Cradle’ Rack

Load capacity 7.03kg/15.5 lbs | Weight 441g The Trek 1120’s unique fork-mounted front rack is designed to cradle a large dry bag or an assortment of other cylindrical objects — think tents, fishing rod tubes, sleeping mats, etc. This places the load just a scoach lower than a conventional handlebar roll, which, in theory, lowers the center of gravity and increases stability. The rack is incredibly user-friendly, very stable, and does a great job preventing bag and cable interference, which is its biggest innovation. It also eliminates the need for handlebar straps, which frees up valuable real estate on the bars. All the same, the chunky aluminum rack adds about 441 grams that wouldn’t be there with a handlebar mounted bag.

The Trek 1120 front rack is heftier and sturdier feeling than I expected. Constructed from heavy duty aluminum tubing welded to a thick mounting plate, the rack attaches to the Carbon Adventure Fork with four beefy hex bolts in a unique trapezoidal pattern. When attached it feels rock solid. After initial use and inspection, I would certainly trust it on a big trip. One of its most interesting features are the protruding columns on the underside and back of the rack (these are also present on the rear rack). These rounded pegs serve as strap guides that work really well at keeping the straps from sliding and the load in place.

Ryan and I stumbled upon what we think is the ideal system for this rack. The main bag, as shown, is the large dry bag from a Salsa Anything Cradle Kit. It’s a pretty big bag that can hold up to 15 liters, according to Salsa. The Revelate Salty Roll would work equally as well. To cinch it down we used two 32” Voile Straps which provided a very secure and tight fit. Honestly, this is probably the most stable feeling system I’ve ever tried on the front of a bike. That being said, the options really are endless with this rack. I could even see wrapping up a Hyperlite day pack and using that as the roll, or a combination of items such as a tent and another roll bag.

Ryan: The front rack is very straightforward, and with the use of a dry bag and a couple Voile straps, lashing down your load couldn’t get any easier. There are some nice details on the rack to keep the straps right where you want them. The rack is pretty beefy, and maybe a little overkill for most loads, however it provides a very solid platform.

The Carbon Adventure Fork

Rake 51mm | Axle-to-crown 510mm The suspension corrected fork is called the Trek 1120 Adventure HCM Carbon Fork. It is made up of a carbon fork and crown with a bonded alloy steerer tube. The fork features 110mm BOOST spacing as well as triple accessory bosses on either side and rack mounts just above the dropout.
 A lot of people have been asking about this fork… specifically whether it will be available to purchase on its own. Right now the ‘Trek Carbon Adventure Fork’ is the only carbon fork being made with triple bottle mounts and 110mm BOOST spacing. Apparently the fork is available through Trek dealers as a crash replacement. But, it’s not going to be marketed, meaning that it is not likely there will be too much stock available at any given moment. The suggested retail prices are $399.99 for the fork and $131.99 for the rack. Specs are as follows: rake is 51mm, axle-to-crown is 510mm. Part numbers are 561208 for the fork and 560997 for the front rack.

As far as performance, the fork is stiff as expected. It’s not as bump absorbent as the noodly MTB carbon forks of old or many of the modern gravel forks. However, I would expect this from an expedition worthy MTB fork. And, it does soak up some of the chatter.

One thing Trek missed in their design is the addition of dynamo wire routing. However, the fork has two tiny drain holes, one on each side, that could perhaps be drilled out to allow routing through the fork with a top-cap charger such as the Sinewave Reactor. Of course, this would void the warranty, and I have no idea if it is definitely possible. Otherwise, the carbon fork has all the right features, including triple mount bosses, rack mounts above the dropout, and there is even a threaded hole at the back of the fork crown to mount a fender.

Rear Rack and Harness System

Load Capacity 12Kg/25lbs | Weight 695g (Rack), 271g (per harness) The rear rack is quite interesting as well. Unlike most rear carriers, it only mounts to the upper portion of the 1120’s seat stays via four bolts, two welded bolt mounts that are threaded perpendicular to the stays and two long bolts that screw directly into mounts on the stays. Overall the rack feels solid and generally secure. One might assume that the upper bolt mounts would be subject to stress, but it seems like the longer bolts do more of the work. Two long bolts came loose during Ryan’s bikepack, but we think they might not have been torqued properly to begin with. He was able to easily tighten the screws and everything stayed secure.

The 1120 comes with two drybag harnesses designed in tandem with the rear rack. Each one secures to the rack with two wide velcro straps and four compression webbing straps that also serve to batten down the load. The harnesses seem very well made from what appears to be hypalon with a plastic hard backer and barstitched webbing with metal compression buckles. Each fits a dry bag ranging from 5 to 10 liters in volume (8L recommended). The setup is similar to having two small rear panniers — albeit far more taut and secure — and allows a bit more packing space than that of a traditional seat pack. This concept was developed to clear the space between the seat and the top of the rack, facilitating the use of a dropper seat post… or for smaller riders who simply can’t fit a large bag between the saddle and the top of a 29+ wheel/tire. It also lowers the weight that would normally be carried in a large cantilevered seat pack. When the real estate atop the rack is included, this system can double the load potential of a more “traditional” seatpack setup. However, with the rack and harnesses weighing in at 1237g/2.7lbs, it more than doubles the weight of a seat pack such as the Revelate Terrapin (539 grams).

As mentioned, the rear rack also provides an angled upper platform that’s useful for strapping down cylindrical items such as a tent or sleeping pad, without interfering with the 1120’s 125mm Bontranger dropper seatpost. Ryan lashed on a 5 liter Sea To Summit Big River Dry Bag containing spare warm clothes and such, and I tried it with my Big Agnes Fly Creek UL1 .

Ryan: The rear harness system was a little finicky at first and wasn’t nearly as easy as the front. The harnesses velcro to the sides of the rack to keep them temporarily in place. Then, once you stuff a dry bag in the harness, you have to loop the webbing around the rack and hook the buckle in. Do this to the other 3 straps and then your all set. It takes a little bit to get used to, but after unloading and reloading a few times I got the hang of it. I was using 6 and 8 liter dry bags and they seemed to fit pretty well. Anything bigger might be a squeeze. There’s extra space to attach a tent, sleeping pad or an additional dry bag to the top of the rack as well.

While Out Bikepacking

Although I wasn’t able to take the 1120 out on a multi-day bikepacking trip (for reasons mentioned earlier), I did set it up in various configurations and even rode it partially loaded a couple of times. The first thing that stood out to me is how tight, solid and stable the luggage systems are. The front rack is clutch. There would be little love lost if I could use it in lieu of all other handlebar harnesses or rolls from here on out. It’s nice to not worry about handlebar straps, or interference with cables and other such accessories. That said, with the proprietary mounts, this rack isn’t an option with a suspension fork, or any other fork for that matter. It’s also pretty specific to roll-style bags or cylindrical items that can’t be opened on the go.

The rear rack and harness system is also quite sturdy. It is probably one of the most movement/rattle/wag free systems I’ve used, the closest being the Porcelain Rocket Mr. Fusion . It’s clear that Trek’s engineers did their homework and focussed on creating a system that moves the weight down, while still maintaining the bike’s agility, maneuverability, and dexterity on tight and twisty singletrack.

Ryan: Since the racks are mounted much lower on the bike than a normal seat pack or front roll bag it really brings the center of gravity down and provides a more stable ride. That coupled with the dropper post means you can really lean into turns and keep up speed. These features also help to keep the bike rubber side down on steep descents. In addition, the solid rear rack eliminates any tail wag that can sometimes be experienced with standard seat bags. Generally that isn’t a big deal, but with this setup it’s removed altogether.

Trek 1120 vs Surly ECR

When I saw early photos of the 1120, I immediately wondered whether it has a similar geometry and feel to the Surly ECR, the original 29+ bikepacking beast. The answer is yes, to some extent… but it’s also quite different. Comparing the large ECR with the 19.5” 1120, the ECR is shorter in both directions. The 1120’s stack height and reach are a little bigger — 642/451mm respectively — than the ECR at 633/420. But, the Trek is also steeper overall with a seat tube angle of 73.5° and the head tube at 70.3°, whereas the ECR’s angles are 72.5 and 70°. Minor differences, but I was generally happy that the seat tube angle is steeper on the 1120. This, in effect, lengthens the 1120. So even with a 21mm shorter chainstay (425mm when the wheel is slid forward in the Stranglehold dropouts), at 112.7cm, the Trek’s overall wheelbase is still 1.6cm longer than that of the ECR. Otherwise, they have matching effective top tube lengths, and the BB drop on the 1120 is 5mm higher than the ECR’s at 80mm. This is a welcome difference, as the ECR is generally limited to 3” tires due its unusually low BB.

Honestly, I thought the 1120 felt similar to the ECR as far as its stance. However, it does seem a bit more nimble and spritely on the trail… probably owed to its lighter weight (approximately 2-3 pounds lighter, with racks) and shorter chainstay (and that was at the long setting for the dropout).

Trek 1120 vs The Stache

The trek 1120 as a trail bike.

Trek bills the 1120 as a touring bike. But judging by its the dropper seat post, short chainstay, and hydro brakes, they also want it to be able to double as a trail bike. Pondering the Trek 1120 as a dedicated trail bike will probably not be relevant to a lot of folks. If you can’t imagine slinging a rigid bike around on your favorite trails, then that’s that. However, a lot of people are looking for one bike to do it all, and the 1120 will likely be tasked as such. I could even envision some folks swapping the fork for a suspension fork until a big bikepacking trip is in order.

When considering 1120 as a quiver killer, the main thing that it has going for it is its relatively steep seat tube, low BB, big cushy tires, and of course, the short chainstay. As mentioned, at 425mm it’s only a hair longer than that of the Stache. However, the relatively steep head tube doesn’t exactly match. I personally would have preferred it a little slacker than 70°. That said, even with the Stranglehold dropout in the back position, the bike felt surprisingly stable during the few occasions I took it rack-free down local descents, such as the Black Mountain Trail and Ridgeline. The 1120 felt generally comfortable and capable for a rigid bike, which usually means slowing things down anyways. I don’t think this is a do-it-all bike for mountain bikers who have a discerning palate when it comes to trail geometry, but it’s certainly capable. It’s also worth noting that if you were planning on swapping a suspension fork when not in bikepacking mode, you could theoretically employ a Cane Creek Angleset to make that HTA a little slacker.

As far as the frame material, the Trek 1120 frame is welded from Trek’s own Alpha Platinum Aluminum. As Skyler found with the Kona Big Honzo , it’s hard to pinpoint the difference between aluminum and steel when there are 3” tires separating the frame from the bumps. The bike is stiff. And it’s also very light. The combination of these two traits makes it feel pretty responsive for a 29+ bike.

One thing I’ve always hated about aluminum is that ‘tink’ sound that randomly happens when a seatpost or something else is loose. Steel is far more dull and less obtrusive, and carbon just sounds like something is creaking. Aluminum can kind of be unnerving, IMO. I noticed the tink a couple of times on the 1120. Not sure exactly where it was coming from, but it went away after a while. With aluminum, it always helps to keep bolts and fittings greased and tight.

Ryan: As a newcomer to the plus tire world, I was amazed at how the tires absorb much of the small trail chatter. Cruising over small roots and rocks was a breeze and as long as I kept up momentum, the bike felt as if it would roll over most anything.

The more upright position, rigid fork and backswept handlebars are certainly features that lean more towards an off-road adventure bike than a trail slaying ninja like it’s bigger brother, the Stache. The bike does have a more nimble feel than I expected and handled a smorgasbord of terrain with a fair amount of ease.

The 20mm longer chainstays [while in the back position as we kept it] and the almost 2 degree steepened head tube angle in comparison to the Stache give the bike a much more stable feel, one that also provides more comfort on longer days in the saddle.

A few other frame highlights include a tapered head tube, internal derailleur and dropper post routing, and Trek’s own Stranglehold dropouts which allows the chain stay length to be fine tuned from 525-540mm. According to Trek, this also means that you could run a compatible 12 x 142 Rohloff hub.

The Trek 1120’s build, as expected, has a selection of Bontranger components. However, Trek made some nice choices in the bike’s bombproof drivetrain featuring mostly Shimano SLX components with a wide-range 11-46 11spd cassette paired with a RaceFace 30t chainring. This provides a granny gear with about 19.9 gear inches for loaded travel even with the voluminous 29×3″ Chupacabra tires.

There were a couple components I didn’t like. First off the Bontrager Crivitz handlebars… Unlike a lot of folks, I am just not a comfort/sweep bar convert. Even if I were, at 690mm, these bars aren’t wide enough. I am also not sold on the Sun Ringle Rims/Chupacabra combo. Both are fine while riding. While they came set up tubeless, I broke the seal when testing the new Wolf Tooth tire lever tool. It was not easy to reset the bead, to say the least. That leads me to think the tolerance isn’t quite tight enough on the rim, or the Chupa is off. If anyone has any thoughts on this, please leave a comment.

The spec also might be a little confusing to some. On one hand, with an innovative rack system, sweep bars, distance-oriented geometry, and loads of mounts, this bike is without a doubt a dirt-road touring machine that on the outset screams for big adventure in far off places. However, I would argue that the out of the box components don’t speak the same language. The dropper post, 28-spoke wheels, PF bottom bracket, and hydraulic brakes are odd choices for such endeavors. The latter is not much of a concern these days (especially for weeks or month long trips), and the other two can be remedied (if the PF BB is a concern, check out Wheels’ threaded options ). On the flipside, with a short chainstay, hydro brakes, and a dropper post, the 1120 has several ingredients that make it look like a trail bike. But, the steep head tube angle and comfort handlebars don’t quite seal the deal. Nevertheless, despite the 70° headtube, I was pleasantly surprised how well the 1120 did when unloaded on the trail. So in essence, in some ways, the parts match the bike, and in others they don’t.

Here is the full build list.

• Front Hub Bontrager sealed bearing, alloy axle, Boost110
• Rear Hub Bontrager alloy, Boost148
• Rims SUNringle Duroc 50 SL 28-hole
• Tires Bontrager Chupacabra, Tubeless Ready, Inner Strength sidewalls, aramid bead, 29×3.00″
• Shifters Shimano SLX M7000, 11 speed
• Rear derailleur Shimano SLX M7000, Shadow Plus
• Crank Race Face Aeffect, 30T Direct Mount Narrow Wide
• Bottom bracket PF92
• Cassette Shimano SLX M7000, 11-46, 11 speed
• Chain Shimano HG-601
• Saddle Bontrager Montrose Comp
• Seatpost Bontrager Drop Line 125, internal routing, 31.6mm (15.5: Drop Line 100)
• Handlebar Bontrager Crivitz, 31.8mm
• Grips Bontrager Race Lite, lock-on
• Stem Bontrager Elite, 31.8mm, 7 degree, w/computer & light mounts
• Headset Integrated, cartridge bearing, sealed, 1-1/8” top, 1.5” bottom
• Brakes SRAM Level T hydraulic disc

• The front rack and fork are unparallelled and offer several major advantages over typical handlebar mounted bags. Plus the fork is quite nice with two sets of triple bosses.
• With racks, this size large Trek 1120 — set up tubeless — weighs 29.4lbs… incredible for a big-footed bike with two chunky, well built racks.
• A well conceived geometry leaning more toward distance dirt tourer.
• Good choice of drivetrain components for bikepacking and dirt touring.
• Rear rack and harness system are a nice way to add a little more volume compared to a typical seat pack… all while slightly lowering the center of gravity. And it’s rock solid.
• The PressFit bottom bracket will likely be one of the biggest gripes about this bike. But, as mentioned in the Norco Search XR review, there are ways around this being a risky (or squeaky) affair.
• Playing the devil’s advocate, the aluminum frame will likely be the second con. While it’s not as vibration dampening and repairable as steel, it’s certainly lightweight.
• The frame triangle doesn’t quite jive with size large universal fit frame bags. The best bet is a custom bag if you want a frame pack.
• I would prefer a rigid seatpost and a price closer to $2k. But, considering you get two racks, the harnesses, and don’t necessarily need any bikepacking bags, it’s actually not a bad deal.
• If it were up to me, the front-end would be a little slacker.
• Size Tested Large (19.5″)
• Weight (as tested with tacks) 29.41lbs (13.34kg)
• Rider Height/Weight 6’0″/170lbs (1.83m/77kg)
• Place of Manufacture Taiwan
• Price $2499.00
• Manufacturer’s Details Trek

Ryan: The Trek 1120 is a great bike for off-road excursions and anywhere you could use a little extra float, think sandy desert arroyos or loose trails. It’s comfortable, stable and provides a solid platform for strapping gear and a low center of gravity to keep you in control. I’m not sure this is the do-all bike that Trek states on the website, however it does provide a very stable off road touring option that can take you off the beaten path without having to invest in a plethora of specific bikepacking bags.

As Ryan mentioned, I’m not sold on the idea that this is a perfect do-all bike. Although Trek doesn’t necessarily claim it as such, they certainly based the build kit and spec around the idea that it’s both a dirt-road expedition bike and a modern trail bike. But, I’m afraid this approach makes the 1120 fall short at the extreme definition of each. That being said, with a few minor tweaks the 1120 can be adjusted to serve either purpose.

Ultimately, Trek’s rack systems are very smart and well executed. This is what will sell this bike. The front rack and fork is spot on. And as some riders can’t quite get their pack list down to the standard kit, or others need bigger kits or space for more water, or smaller riders need an alternative packing option, the 1120’s harness system and rear rack provides a very innovative, functional and solid solution.

When I started testing this bike the first thing that came to mind was The Baja Divide… or other such long-distance, sandy, water-starved bikepacking routes. For such trips 29+ tires are the perfect choice. And having all the gear you need on the two racks frees up five bottle mounts for water storage. The Trek 1120 begs for such pursuits. Out of the four bikes I currently have at my disposal, if I were to head out on the Baja Divide tomorrow, I’d happily swap the handlebars, saddle and seatpost, and set out with the 1120.

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Bicycle Dropouts: What You Need To Know

What is a bike dropout.

A bike dropout is the part of a bicycle frame or fork where the bicycle’s wheel is attached.

Definition and function of a bike dropout

Bike dropouts  are a key component that forms part of the bike frame. It basically serves as slots where the wheels are placed. They typically house the axle of the wheel, providing a receiver for the axle to secure wheels in place and align them correctly.

Types of bike dropouts:

• Horizontal Dropouts:  These are classic dropouts design that allows the wheel to be moved back and forth to adjust the bike’s chain tension.
• Vertical Dropouts:  This design allows for easier wheel removal and installation, as they simply allow the wheel to drop down and out.
• Through Axle:  A modern design that allows the axle to pass directly through the dropout and frame, providing increased stiffness and durability.

Importance of bike dropouts in bicycle design

In the world of bicycle design,  bike dropouts  play an important role in how the bicycle rides and handles. They affect the bike’s wheelbase, the distance between the wheels, as well as its chain tension. Having a well-designed dropout can help improve the overall performance and reliability of the bike.

In conclusion, bike dropouts might not be the most glamorous part of your bike, but they play a crucial part in how your bike functions. Without them, we wouldn’t be able to securely attach the wheels to our bikes.

Types of Bike Dropouts

A bike dropout is the part of a bicycle frame where the front and rear wheels attach. Depending on how a cyclist intends to use their bike, there are four main types of dropouts to consider:

Horizontal dropouts

Horizontal dropouts  were a common sight on older bikes and are still used by some manufacturers today. The advantages of this style are that it offers the cyclist flexibility in terms of gear ratio adjustments and chain tensioning. They’re perfect for single-speed or fixed gear conversions.

Vertical dropouts

The  vertical dropouts  are the most common style in modern road, mountain, and hybrid bikes. They allow for quick release of the wheel and ensure that the wheel is correctly aligned each time it’s installed. One possible downside is that they don’t allow for chain tension adjustment.

Sliding dropouts

Sliding dropouts  are a type of adjustable dropout found on some bikes, offering the ability to adjust chain tension by moving the position of the rear axle back or forward. This makes them suitable for fixed gear, single speed and internally geared hub systems.

Adjustable dropouts

An adjustment freedom is the main feature for the  adjustable dropouts  as they allow changing geometry and fit of the bike, so you can fine-tune your ride based on personal preferences and riding conditions.

To sum up, the type of bike dropouts you choose depends on your cycling needs. Whether it is for road racing, mountain biking, freestyle or urban commuting, there’s a suitable dropout style out there for everyone.

Pros and Cons of Different Bike Dropout Types

Bike dropouts play a crucial role in handling and performance depending on the type of ride, whether it be road biking, mountain biking, or any cycling style. Their chief purpose is to hold the wheel in place and maintain alignment.

There are different types of dropouts to cater to the cyclists’ diverse needs like horizontal, vertical, sliding, and adjustable. The following comparisons will guide you in picking the apt one based on your needs.

Advantages and disadvantages of horizontal dropouts

Horizontal Dropouts , from the golden age of cycling, are loved by fixie and single-speed riders. The most evident benefit is the freedom to adjust the chain’s tension. However, there can be difficulty aligning the wheel correctly, and inadequate skewer pressure can cause the wheel to move under heavy load.

• Pros: Adjustability for chain tension, ideal for single speed or fixed gear bikes .

• Cons: Difficult to align the wheel, possible wheel slippage.

Advantages and disadvantages of vertical dropouts

Modern bicycles predominantly feature  Vertical Dropouts . They allow easy wheel removal and replacement without worries about wheel alignment. It’s a great convenience for riders with derailleurs, but these dropouts do not permit any adjustability in wheelbase or chain tension.

• Pros: Easy wheel removal and installation, ensures accurate wheel alignment.

• Cons: Lack of adjustability in wheelbase or chain tension.

Advantages and disadvantages of sliding dropouts

Sliding Dropouts  are a perfect blend of the vertical and horizontal types. They offer easy wheel installation, alignment assurance, and chain tension adjustability. But, they are heavier and more complex in design, which may require professional assistance for adjustments or replacements.

• Pros: Chain tension adjustability, accurate wheel alignment.

• Cons: Heavier, complex design.

Advantages and disadvantages of adjustable dropouts

Adjustable Dropouts  are a highly flexible choice, offering both axle positioning and geometric adjustments. This ability to tune the bike’s characteristics is invaluable for experimentative cyclists, but additional parts can add to its weight and complexity.

• Pros: Highly adjustable, can change the bike’s geometry.

• Cons: Can be heavy and complex.

Choosing the right type of bike dropout ultimately comes down to your specific biking requirements and style preference. Understanding these advantages and disadvantages can help you make an informed decision.

Factors to Consider When Choosing a Bike Dropout

When procuring a bike dropout, several components demand careful consideration to ensure optimal performance. Here are a few important features to contemplate before making your selection:

Frame compatibility

The bike dropout you choose must be compatible with your bike frame. This is critical because the dropout is designed to fit a specific frame – the connection point for vital components such as your rear wheel, brake, and derailleur. Cross-checking the manufactures’ recommendations can aid in ensuring proper fit.

Wheel size and axle spacing

Wheel size and axle spacing  are additional factors that affect dropout choice. Larger wheels may require wider dropouts to accommodate the increased size, while different axle types (quick release, thru-axle, etc.) demand corresponding dropout designs. Consider the size and type of your wheel for an appropriate fit.

Single speed vs. multi-speed compatibility

The kind of drivetrain your bike has can also influence your dropout choice. For bikes with a single-speed setting, a dropout that allows tensioning the chain, like a horizontal or sliding dropout, is beneficial. In contrast, bikes with multi-speed or gear settings typically require vertical dropouts, which contend well with the tension provided by the derailleur.

To sum up, take into account the following aspects while selecting the bike dropout:

• Compatibility with your bike frame
• Wheel size and axle type
• Compatibility with your bike’s speed settings

By considering these factors, you ensure that the bike dropout you choose contributes positively to your bike’s performance and longevity.

Popular Bike Dropout Brands and Models

If you are an enthusiast cyclist or a professional mountain biker, the term ‘dropout’ significantly impacts your cycling experience . With the increasing number of brands and models in bike manufacturing, finding a reliable bike dropout could be overwhelming. We present a quick list of notable dropout brands and bicycle frames renowned for their trustworthy dropout systems:

Notable bike dropout brands in the market

•  Paragon Machine Works:  Known for their premium quality, Paragon Machine Works offer a range of versatile and durable bike dropouts. Their precision parts for cycling enthusiasts and bike builders alike have consistently exhibited top-tier performance.

•  Shimano:  A brand that needs no introduction, Shimano also produces bike dropout systems. Their commitment to quality is evident in their meticulously crafted dropouts that ensure the bike gears shift smoothly and provide a seamless riding experience.

•  Surly:  Surly is another reliable name when it comes to bike dropout systems. Its robust designs ensure the wheel is held precisely where it should be, guaranteeing a safe and efficient ride.

Top bike frames with reliable dropouts

•  Cervelo R5:  The Cervelo R5 frame is admired for its lightweight design and superior dropout system that offers precise gear alignments and smooth transitions.

•  Giant TCR:  Known for its excellent stiffness-to-weight ratio, the Giant TCR frame has a reliable dropout system that firmly holds the wheel in place for safe and efficient biking .

•  Trek Madone:  The Trek Madone frames are well-regarded due to their aero-design and high-quality dropout systems that ensure optimal wheel alignment and smooth gear shifting .

Remember, different dropout designs can significantly affect the handling, gear shifting, and overall performance of the bicycle. So, ensure you are selecting a bike or a dropout system that is most suitable for your biking needs and preferences.

Bike Dropout Maintenance and Repair

Proper bike dropout maintenance and repair are crucial for ensuring your bike’s longevity and performance. This section will cover two main aspects: cleaning and lubricating the dropouts and replacing a damaged dropout.

Cleaning and Lubricating Bike Dropouts

Regularly cleaning and lubricating bike dropouts  is essential to maintain the bike’s overall performance. Here’s a simple step-by-step process:

• Start by removing the rear wheel.
• Use a clean, soft cloth to wipe away any dirt or grime from the dropouts.
• Apply a quality bike lubricant on the dropout and the quick-release mechanism.
• Attach the rear wheel back and ensure it’s secure.

Remember, proper lubrication prevents rust and ensures smooth operation of the quick-release mechanism.

Replacing a Damaged Dropout

Replacing a damaged dropout  can be more complex and sometimes requires professional help. However, if you feel comfortable doing it yourself, follow these steps:

• Begin by removing the rear wheel and the derailleur.
• Take out the screws holding the dropout in place.
• Install a new dropout and secure it with screws.
• Attach the rear derailleur and wheel back onto the bike.

In conclusion, maintaining your bike dropout will help ensure a smoother ride and prolong the life of your bike. However, when replacement becomes necessary, don’t hesitate to seek professional help if needed. Regular inspection will prevent small dropout issues from developing into significant problems.

Upgrades and Accessories for Bike Dropouts

Stepping up your cycling game requires not just a good bike, but also the right accessories and upgrades. Among the most overlooked parts of a bicycle, yet carrying a significant impact on bike safety and performance, are the bike dropouts. Here, we explore some upgrades and accessories that can enhance your bike dropouts.

Dropout Alternatives like Thru-Axles and Bolt-On Systems

Thru-axles  and  bolt-on systems  are major alternatives to the traditional dropouts. Thru-axles enhance stability and control by securely connecting the wheel to the bicycle frame. These are especially common in mountain bikes.

Bolt-on systems, meanwhile, provide an added level of security. These systems do not offer quick-release features, making them a solid choice for cyclists concerned about wheel-theft.

Upgrading from a quick-release skewer to a thru-axle or bolt-on system can enhance both performance and security.

Dropout Adapters and Conversion Kits for Different Axle Standards

Dropout adapters  and  conversion kits  can assist in aligning your bicycle to different axle standards . These are especially useful when upgrading a bicycle’s wheelset or moving components between bikes with varying axle dimensions.

These accessories can make a significant difference in how your bike performs and fits you, which can be a game-changer for cycling enthusiasts. Choosing the right one requires an understanding of your riding style and the conditions in which you ride.

Investing in dropout upgrades and accessories is a move towards not just better bike performance but also a safer and more enjoyable cycling experience.

As we come towards the end of this engaging exploration of dropouts in 2023, let’s shift our gears and discuss the importance of choosing the right bike dropout for your cycling needs.

Choosing the right bike dropout for your needs

Selecting the right bike dropout is a crucial factor to consider, especially if you’re into cycling, whether you’re a professional cyclist or a biking enthusiast. The type of bike dropout not only impacts the bike’s performance but also influences the comfort, durability, and versatility of your cycling experience . Some dropouts provide better wheel alignment, while others provide scope for derailleur installation or easy wheel removal.

Let’s consider a few key aspects to be mindful of:

• Fixed or Replaceable Dropouts : Fixed dropouts are integral to the bike frame, offering durability and stiffness, whereas replaceable dropouts let you switch between single-speed and geared setups.
• Vertical or Horizontal Dropouts : The vertical dropouts support quick and smooth wheel removal and fitting, perfect for road bikes. However, horizontal dropouts provide improved wheel adjustment and suit single-speed or fixed gear bikes.
• Through-Axle or Quick-Release : The through-axle systems offer increased rigidity and strength, fitting for mountain bikes or disc brakes. On the other hand, quick-release systems are lighter and easier to use, apt for road or city bikes.

Choosing the right dropout requires considering your bike’s usage, desired performance, and specific wheel-setup preferences. In conclusion, the world of bike dropouts is vast, and investing some time in understanding their intricacies can significantly enhance your cycling experience.

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