karoo road trip

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Breathtaking scenery

Take an unforgettable road trip in the great karoo.

F F rom the pure silence of a sheep farm to the bustle of a book festival, from a traditional Sunday lunch in a Victorian-era town to a strictly non-traditional Saturday night cabaret, and from a daisy extravaganza to a dance in the dust, the Great Karoo offers a grand, somewhat offbeat, South African overland experience.

Spanning nearly 400 000km 2  in the geographic midriff of South Africa, the Great Karoo must be one of the quietest places on Earth.

It is a place of immense spaces, wide-angle horizons, craggy mountain ranges, conical hills, an ancient inland seabed, and a sky so big that at night it feels like you can touch the stars. The Great Karoo stands proudly with other desert tourism regions like the Australian Outback, and Arizona and New Mexico in the United States, and makes for a memorable road trip. It seems you could travel for months in and about the towns of the Great Karoo and have a different experience in each one.

W W atch a sunset thunderhead gathering over the village of Aberdeen after a blazing hot midsummer’s day and toast life on the open road. Stand still in the Matjiesfontein military graveyard and try to hear the strains of the lone Highland piper, who is said to be playing  Scotland the Brave  for all time.

The Great Karoo

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H H ead for the mountain settlement of Nieu Bethesda in winter time (May to August) and hunker down with a Karoo Ale at the Sneeuberg Brewery . Share a traditional Karoo supper at the Victoria Manor Hotel in Cradock , where you can also watch the supremely fit canoe paddlers compete in the Fish River Canoe Marathon . Go on a book safari in the Northern Cape town of Richmond , where the printed word still rules.

Stride the streets of Colesberg on a walking tour of this Victorian-era town and venture out on the Gariep Route , staying over at the most eccentrically stylish hotel in the region. Enjoy a Saturday night cabaret in the Karoo Theatrical Hotel outside the mohair town of Steytlerville , and be entertained by a concert pianist and an exotic singer named Dame Layla Lamborghini.

Sit with astronomers on a hill outside Sutherland , home of the Southern African Large Telescope , and relish the heavesquare ns above. Visit the seven radio dishes out at the Square Kilometre Array near Carnarvon and imagine the day when more than 2500 of these wonderful techno beasts will be swaying in unison, listening to the universe.

Hear all about the endangered riverine rabbit in Loxton ; join the Nama Riel danna dancers at the Williston Festival in the Upper Karoo; and drive to Calvinia to catch the seasonal display of spring daisies, perhaps the greatest free show on Earth.

H H ave a sundowner with your favourite person at a spot overlooking Graaff-Reinet and the Valley of Desolation , giving you an eagle-eye view of the vastness of the Karoo . Go fossil fossicking in the Karoo National Park outside Beaufort West , and antique-chasing in a speciality store in Willowmore before entering the Baviaanskloof Wilderness Area, famous for its mountainous, rugged terrain and adventure tourism activities.

Enjoy Prince Albert , gateway to the Great Karoo , at Olive Festival time, and listen to the happy gurgle of the water furrows as you sit on your  stoep  (verandah) on a warm summer’s evening. And then turn your car around, grab the road map and choose a different route all together...

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Your Guide to the Karoo

Discover the magic of the great karoo.

A Karoo road trip is regarded as the greatest self-drive experience in South Africa. This expansive and untamed landscape is divided into two regions: The Klein Karoo and the Great Karoo. The Great Karoo is so vast, it stretches across South Africa’s interior and borders the Western Cape.

Spanning over 350 000km, the Karoo is often compared to the Australian outback. Travellers who have driven through the Karoo many times can travel for months in the Great Karoo and have a different experience, see different towns, and encounter new sights every time. 

The Klein Karoo

The Klein Karoo, a 300km strip between Worcester and the Western Coastline. Known for it’s succulent vegetation and incredible wildlife, the ‘Little Karoo’ is a true oasis.

The Great Karoo

The Great Karoo offers a diverse and ever-changing experience. One can spend months unraveling its secrets, and with each journey, encounter a unique set of adventures.

A Big Five Karoo Safari Day Tour

Venture into South Africa’s wilderness, right here in the heart of the Klein Karoo, with a Big 5 safari day tour—only a 10 minute drive from Loganda Lodge. This family-friendly and affordable adventure is great for guests hoping to see lions, elephants, rhinos, zebra, giraffe, hippos, and many other incredible wildlife on a half-day or full-day safari tour.

See 6000 Year Old Khoisan (Khoi Khoi) Rock Art

See 6000-Year-Old Khoisan (Khoi Khoi) Rock Art: Rich History Preserved The Karoo is not only a land of breathtaking landscapes but also a region steeped in history. Explore the 6000-year-old Khoisan (Khoi Khoi) rock art that tells the story of the area’s rich heritage.

Karoo Grasslands

Explore the vast grasslands of the Klein Karoo, a canvas painted with vibrant colours, wild flowers, and farmlands, all teeming with life.

Venture off-road with some of South Africa’s oldest routes and 4×4 trails, passing through mountainous terrains, steep climbs, and iconic views.

Ancient Rock Art

Uncover the Karoo’s ancient Khoisan rock art and historic artefacts, where the rocks themselves narrate stories of South Africa’s intricate past.

Hiking Trails

Explore the Karoo’s diverse and wild landscapes, and venture into some of South Africa’s most iconic Hiking Trails and Off-Road Paths.

The Loganda Pillars

Built 1882, the Loganda Pillars stand as silent sentinels in the small town of Touws River, and are a celestial marvel to all who encounter them. These imposing rock formations, now weathered by the passage of time, tell the tale of a forgotten history of astronomical wonder and early scientific advancements—the first of its kind in Southern Africa.

The Ultimate Road Trip

Journey through south africa's great karoo.

Journeying through South Africa’s vast and untamed Karoo is a road-trip of a lifetime. Whether you’re travelling from Johannesburg, the Garden Route, or Cape Town, the Karoo’s ever-changing landscapes mark the ultimate road trip, tracing the footsteps of South Africa’s voortrekker history and early Khoisan (Bushman) life. Your journey begins here. Explore the Great Karoo, where endless adventures awaits.

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The Travels of BBQboy and Spanky

Highlights of a 2 week road trip around the Garden Route and Karoo, South Africa

The Garden Route and Karoo – the ultimate 2 week road trip

Over 2000 km, 4 winding mountain passes, uncountable dirt roads . We  passed through tropical greenery, arid semi-desert, and wide open landscapes stopping to see spectacular scenery, beautiful beaches, lots of wildlife and one of the natural wonders of the world – the Cango Caves. It was one of the most incredible trips we’ve ever taken.

This is a huge post with tons of photos, information, and a cool video at the bottom. You might want to take a pee or get a beer before sitting down to read. By the time you’re finished with it you’ll have sampled most of the highlights of this region (the Garden Route, Karoo, and the Cape Town area are all part of South Africa’s Western Cape province).

The basics: The Garden Route starts about  4 ½ hours northeast of Cape Town. It is a thin stretch of coastline backed by the impressive Outeniqua and Tsitsikamma Mountains. Because of this it has a Mediterranean type climate with generous precipitation. Cross the mountains into the Karoo and you’ll see a totally different geography characterized  by semi-desert, open spaces, mountains, and ostrich farms.

Day 1 – Cape Town to George via the Overberg

Going through the Overberg is the long way of getting to the Garden Route. Coming from Cape Town on the N2, get off at the exit for Gordon’s Bay. The R44 skirts the coast and is particularly scenic just past Gordon’s Bay when you have views like the above. This coastline is particularly popular for spotting whales (July to November is the best time) or cage diving with Great White sharks at Gansbaai. We didn’t do any of that though – this being the first day of vacation Lissette passed out in the passenger seat. I just kept on driving. Other great views: when coming back up towards the N2, the stretch from Brendasdorp to Swellendam has some incredible views of dry hills backed by the imposing Langeberg mountain range.

Want to do shark diving? This is the tour to take .

. We had started off from Cape Town at 10 am and it was 7 pm by the time we arrived in pretty George.

Day 2 to 4 – George and surrounding area

People say that there’s not much to George . We actually enjoyed using it as a base to explore the area. George is easy to navigate with its wide, orderly streets and has points of interest in town as well as in the surrounding vicinity. I would even say that the coast in this area is the most scenic on the Garden Route.

Highlights : Go to the ‘ Map of Africa ‘. Located on a high hill overlooking Wilderness beach, it is a popular spot for paragliding (above). Looking the other direction, you see the scenery in the photo below (that’s why it’s called the Map of Africa). We spent Christmas day walking along beautiful Wilderness beach which stretches up along the coast as far as the eye can see. We went to the George Botanical Gardens (nice views but flowers weren’t in bloom – you can skip if you’ve seen Kirstenbosch in Cape Town) and the Outeniqua Farmer’s Market where they have lots of different food stalls and handicrafts sold by local artists (only open on Saturday mornings – but a really recommended visit). The one thing we missed was the  Outeniqua Transport (railway) museum which was closing when we showed up.

George is also located right next to the mountain passes that traverse into the Karoo. More on that soon.

Information and resources on George

Where we stayed in George : Edenwood Guesthouse . A beautiful property on the edge of town looking up at the mountains. Very tranquil and we spent a lot of time relaxing and playing with the 4 dogs and 4 cats. Recommended (unless you have allergies). A couple of other recommendations: Inn Victori Guesthouse & Surfcamps and On the Beach (which is on that beautiful Wilderness Beach).  . Useful links :   Flytime Paragliding , George Botanical Gardens , Outeniqua Farmers Market . George Tourism . 

Day 5 to 7 – Montagu Pass and the Highlights of Oudtshoorn (Little Karoo)

There are 2 passes to get from George to Oudshoorn in the Little Karoo. The most obvious is the paved and incredibly scenic Outeniqua Pass . But we were saving that for our return. On this trip we took the very rough Montagu pass , the old pass built in the mid-1800’s by convict labour.

Once across the pass (it takes about 45 minutes) the lush green of the Garden Route disappears to be replaced by semi-desert. The Little Karoo is dry and you’ll see cactus and shrubs. Impressive landscapes with red earth and majestic mountain ranges in the distance.

Oudtshoorn would end up being our favorite spot on this trip . There are a ton of wildlife, adventure, and sightseeing opportunities. The town itself is very pretty and quiet. Like George it’s very easy to find your way around without getting lost.

We did all the ‘must do’ activities PLUS had an experience that would end up being the highlight of the trip. I’ll detail that further below.

The first thing to do in Oudtshoorn is to visit an Ostrich farm . We chose the Highgate Ostrich Farm .

Do you know that an ostrich can kill a man using its dagger-like front toe? Yup. But they only kick forward and not backwards.

Oudtshoorn is known as the World’s Ostrich Capital and was made rich with Ostrich farming. Most of the wealth was created by the export of ostrich feathers which were used in much of the fashion in Europe. Other uses: Ostrich leather and meat.

The major ‘can’t miss’ attraction in Oudtshoorn are the Cango Caves located half an hour out of town. This huge cave system extends 4 km underground.

I booked the ‘ Adventure Tour ‘ which includes climbing up a steep set of stairs called Jacob’s ladder, going through the ‘Tunnel of Love’, up the ‘Coffin’,squeezing through the ‘Chimney’ and finally slipping through the ‘Devil’s Postbox’. If it all sounds a bit extreme well it is – I came out of it sweaty and caked with mud. Fun adventure though.

Lissette took the easier ‘ Heritage Tour ‘ which just focuses on the main (large) caverns.

Below: wedging through cracks in the ‘Adventure Tour” . You have to have a certain slimness taking this tour and there’s a story that’s known to everyone around town: A few years ago a large woman came and wanted to do the tour. Guides tried to dissuade her but she got angry and started accusing them of discrimination. They let her her do it. She got stuck in the Tunnel of Love and was jammed in there for 9 hours – at the same time making everyone who had gone through before her stuck as well (you go out the same way you come in). Full story here  (notice that they give her full name, city where she comes from, her weight – and how much she cost the taxpayer. How rough is that?)

So if they tell you that you’re too fat to do this tour it’s maybe not such a good idea…

If you have kids, the place to take them in Oudtshoorn is the Cango Wildlife Ranch . There you can see cheetahs, white lions, crocodiles, monkeys, and even Sumatran tigers. Although touristy, the main goal of the ranch is animal conservation and you’ll see a lot of animals here that are on the endangered list. So it’s a good cause.

It’s also famous as a place where you can get in a cage and get dipped in the water next to a crocodile. I’ve seen bloggers write about it like it’s the most exciting thing they’ve ever experienced. Honestly, it seemed to us that the crocs finally figured out that they can’t get to the people in the cage because they just basically swim around uninterested. So I’d maybe skip that. More interesting though is the opportunity to get to meet and feed some lemurs. I saw them climbing all over participants and it looked like a great chance to interact with these beautiful animals. Overall a good experience.

But our absolute highlight in Oudtshoorn? Dinner at Buffelsdrift Game Lodge .

Just outside of town, this lodge has a restaurant looking out over a lake and the Swartberg mountains in the distance. It ‘feels’ as Africa as you can get and you’re guaranteed to see animals. On this evening we saw a giraffe (across the lake), hippo, wilderbeest, and even had nyala come and graze right next to the dining area. The food was great (I had a fantastic ostrich steak) and the setting absolutely perfect. An experience we will never forget. And you know what? It didn’t cost us any more than any other restaurant in town.

Buffelsdrift was recommended by our guesthouse host Una. She even dropped us off there and picked us up at the end of the evening.

Information and Resources on Oudtshoorn

Where we stayed in Oudtshoorn : Yamkela Guesthouse . Very comfortable room, has a swimming pool, great breakfast, and the friendliest hosts (Una and Charl) that we’ve ever had the pleasure of meeting. Recommend 100%. If you want to do something really special, stay at the Buffelsdrift Game Lodge . 

Links : Highgate Ostrich Farm , Cango Caves , Cango Wildlife Ranch , Buffelsdrift Game Lodge .  Oudtshoorn Tourism .

  Day 8 to 10 – The Swartberg Pass, Prince Albert, and the Groot Karoo.

There are two ways to get from Oudtshoorn in the Little Karoo to Prince Albert in the Big Karoo: over the Swartberg Mountains via the Swartberg Pass or, taking a detour, along the river valley of the Meiringspoort Pass . On this day we were taking the Swartberg Pass .

The Swartberg pass runs for 27 km, most of it hairpin bends looking straight over the edge. It can be hard passing cars going the opposite way in some spots ( see the video further below for proof ). It will take about 90 minutes to cross the pass so it’s a bit of an adventure…but the views are amazing and something I’ll never forget. In fact, the reason many people go to Prince Albert in the first place is to cross the pass, have lunch, then come back over the pass.

Prince Albert is an old-fashioned one street town. No kidding, it reminds me of what an old west town would be. There are a few cafes, a museum, a church, and a beautiful 50’s style theatre. And in the middle of town, at the center of everything, the colonial style Swartberg hotel . At night, when most of the tourists have left, locals wander into the hotel’s bar (the ‘ladies bar’) and have a drink while watching cricket or rugby or discussing politics with other clients. It’s just that kind of place.

We didn’t do much in Prince Albert, mostly because it was incredibly hot (the desert heat was oppressive). It really is the kind of place to just relax and soak in the culture. Although we really liked this little town for most people 1 night would be enough.

Need to rent a Car? We use  Rentalcars.com  for our car rentals. They dig up offers from all the major car companies so you get the best deals.

Information and resources on prince albert.

Where we stayed : The Swartberg Hotel . Big beautiful hotel that belongs in another era. Incredibly comfortable, fantastic breakfast. The place to stay in town.

Links : Prince Albert Tourism

Days 11 to 14 – The Meiringspoort Pass, the Outeniqua Pass, and on to Knysna.

For those traumatized by the Swartberg Pass (like Lissette), there is an alternative to getting back to Oudtshoorn:  the Meiringspoort pass . This paved pass cuts through the mountains along a river valley. And although it is a bit of a detour, requiring you to drive north-east into the Groot Karoo before getting to the pass, the actual driving time is actually the same as the Swartberg Pass.

Having passed through the Meiringspoort Pass and through the Little Karoo, we this time crossed the scenic  Outeniqua Pass to get back to the coast (and the Garden Route).

Knysna is considered to be the tourist center of the Garden Route. I’ll be honest – the town itself didn’t hold much appeal to us. As towns go, we actually preferred George as a base than Knysna which, during our stay, was continuously traffic-clogged. BUT: Knysna makes a good base to explore 1) the Knysna Heads (one of our highlights along the Garden Route) and 2) the many tourist attractions on the Eastern end of the Garden Route.

The town is located within a huge lagoon. At the mouth of the lagoon, two huge cliffs protect the entry to the lagoon. These are the Knysna Heads . You can drive to the top of the Heads, park your car, and wander along the many scenic viewpoints looking back at the lagoon as well as out over the Indian Ocean.

You can also drive down to the beach below. That’s what we did. We spent all of an afternoon doing all the above and it was the highlight of our time in Knysna itself.

The Easternmost part of the garden Route has some fantastic wildlife parks as well as national Parks . Lots to see and do. We didn’t have a chance to see everything but here are highlights of what we did do.

Birds of Eden is the largest aviary and bird sanctuary in the world. The facilities are fantastic, with suspended walkways, lakes, and a waterfall. They rehabilitate birds and provide them with a safe place free of predators. What they’ve done here is incredible.

*note: right next door (sharing the same parking lot) is Monkeyland Primate Sanctuary . We would have gone if Lissette wasn’t deathly afraid of monkeys. But if you’re here you can spend almost an entire day seeing birds and monkeys at the two different sanctuaries.

A highlight for us, again close to the above, was the Lawnwood Snake Sanctuary . Here we learned about different snakes, their habitats, and their behaviour. We saw Puff Adders, Cape Cobras, Black Mambas, Green Mambas, Boomslang, as well as a variety of large pythons (which we had the opportunity to hold). The hour tour was excellently done and hands on. We had a bunch of kids in the group and they loved it.

Within a few hundred meters of the snake sanctuary is the Bramon Wine Estate . We finished a day of visiting animals by having a late lunch with a bottle of wine. It’s the only winery in the area as far as I know and it was perfect finish to the day.

What’s better than a walk on the beach after a late lunch and a bottle of wine? This is  Keurbooms beach right outside the town of Plettenberg Bay.

Information and Resources on Knysna

Where we stayed : Russel Hotel , centrally located, right in town – nothing fancy but comfortable, great people, and really good breakfasts. Or, a fancier option is Azure House . It has a pool and great views of the lagoon. . Links : Birds of Eden , Monkeyland , Lawnwood Snake Sanctuary , Bramon Wine Estate , Knysna Tourism .

More Information on the Garden Route and Little Karoo : A couple of years ago my South African friend Tony contributed this very detailed guide to the Garden Route and Little Karoo . It is the bible to this area as far as I’m concerned. On this 2 week trip we visited many of the places in his guide, even added a few of own – but we also missed a few big ones. So between this post and his guide you should have everything you ever need to know about this region of South Africa.

Don’t want to drive?  This 6 day tour covers many of the highlights I’ve covered above, it’s all-inclusive, inexpensive…and you don’t have to drive.

About the driving: driving in South Africa is quite easy, the hardest thing for me as a part-time (North American) driver was driving on the left hand side and roundabouts. But I got used to those fast. Roads are good, drivers generally not aggressive, and I love the ‘car guards’ and full-service gas stations. They make life easy for you in South Africa.

If you made it all the way down here, thanks for reading!

Related: why we can’t agree on south africa.

Related: The Ultimate Guide to South Africa

Related: The 5 Best Hikes in South Africa

PS. Looking to book flights, hotels, tours, or rent a car? Have a look at our  Travel Resources page .

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Reader interactions.

November 22, 2022 at 2:18 am

On one of our many trips to SA we were fortunate to be taken by dear SA friends from Jo’Burg down thru the Garden Route. How beautiful! Rode an ostrich and bungeed at Bloukran’s! Cape Town is so different – the art, architecture, food, wine, people, etc. and all along the accommodations were unlike anything we have in the States. Being close enough to a lion to touch them – a feeling that can’t be explained by a photo. Smelling them before you see them. Favorite place has got to be the wild Cape of Good Hope. Love standing there where the storm winds blow! Sad because the violence is now outweighing all of this.

November 22, 2022 at 12:03 pm

Thanks Dixie. We had some of the same experiences. South Africa is amazing.

January 23, 2022 at 11:17 am

Frank, I believe you used the word Incredible to describe this trip. It is totally inadequate and you’re going to have to come up with something bigger, better, and more descriptive. I recommend using the word Incredible but maybe WOW!!! would work equally well.

January 23, 2022 at 2:44 pm

I’m glad you think so, means I conveyed it well! We have been so impressed by the beauty of South Africa. I hope you and Macky get here one day 🙂

January 28, 2021 at 10:30 am

Oh My You Missed The Best Part of the Garden Route Sedgefield,Africs’s first and only Citta Slow Town! It offers 5 Beaches, a fresh water lake, Estuaries, Tortoises, 47 Mosaic Statues and lets not forget the Saturday Markets and the Friendly People.

January 28, 2021 at 10:56 am

Thank you Belinda. Unfortunately we didn’t have time for everything – but I appreciate you pointing those out, we’ll make sure to check out Sedgefield next time around! 🙂

January 20, 2021 at 6:31 pm

Wow, what a read. Sure it’s a woolly mammoth of a post, but perfect for anyone heading to the area. So disappointed you didn’t try ostrich riding though Frank, I’d have enjoyed a laugh 🙂 We did the Garden Route a few years ago but stuck to the coast and missed out on a whole lot of what you did, our mistake it seems. It’s seriously much more stunning than I realised, and I’d love to drive those passes (granted, in a 4×4 and with hubbie behind the wheel). Driving in South Africa is mad on occasion but definitely the best way to get around. Agree that Knysna isn’t quite the town it’s made out to be, we stayed there a few days and quite frankly got a bit bored. Some nice forest trails though (Knysna is famous for it’s woods and the elephants that once roamed there). We’ll definitely be checking out Wilderness, and that game lodge (what a lunch!) on our next trip, thanks for doing all the research for us! Phew. Now time for that beer!

January 20, 2021 at 8:20 pm

I had an out with the ostrich riding – I was too heavy 🙂 The limit was 70 kg. Yes, we weren’t crazy about Knysna. Traffic bad, no breeze because of the protected lagoon, the waterfront is really kitchy…didn’t find it that pretty except for the heads. But we’re glad we chose a base on the Western end of the garden Route (George) and another on the Eastern end (Knysna) because it allowed us to break up the sightseeing. Would have been a lot of driving just using one base and having to commute back and forth. Just Knysna to the Crags took an hour so distances deceiving. Yes, if I have one recommendation it is to have dinner at Buffelsdrift. its actually a game lodge and they have accommodation within the reserve as well as tours to see the animals. It’s only about 6km out of Oudtshoorn and we’d actually consider sleeping there next time just for the experience. The place was FANTASTIC.

August 22, 2021 at 2:06 pm

what do you think of PLETTENBERG BAY ? I reserved there at R’Bn’B for 2 weeks (we’ll be 2 months in SA)

August 22, 2021 at 3:24 pm

We didn’t actually go into Plettenberg Bay, we drove right past it on the way to the attractions a bit further north-east. But I hear it’s very nice, more upscale than Knysna where we stayed, plus also closer to many of the more interesting sights on the garden Route. Knowing what we know now, we would have stayed in Plettenberg Bay (Or thereabouts) instead of Knysna because we found ourselves driving a lot. So I think you did well.

There are also some nice attractions around George which I’ve mentioned. We enjoyed having that as a base as well (we used George and Knysna as bases). As I say, knowing what we know now, would have used George and Plettenberg Bay.

2 months! Lucky you!

November 22, 2019 at 2:24 am

Hope you bungeed on your honeymoon on Bloukran’s Bridge – the highest bridge in the world! 800 ft, 8 sec free fall! ☺️ Would be something to remember! I did and would recommend!!!

October 22, 2017 at 10:41 pm

Oh boy, that’s a tough one. Oudtshoorn was great, going over the Swartberg pass was impressive (and a little scary), the coast and beaches were amazing…so much varied geography and beauty. It was all fantastic.

August 22, 2016 at 3:19 pm

Yes, and SA much better value for money as well as being one of the most spectacular countries anywhere.

February 18, 2016 at 8:48 pm

Hi Chantal, Oudtshoorn and the drive to Prince Albert were our highlights (I’d try to stay a night in Prince Albert). We missed Montagu (heard great things though) and passed through Tsistsikamma on the drive to the Bloukrans bridge (it looked really wild and beautiful) but we didn’t stop to explore. We didn’t actually like Knysna much except for exploring the Knysna heads which were pretty stunning…If I would add something it would be Wilderness, the town seems nice (and you should see the views from the Map of Africa) and the beach is gorgeous.

You might want to check out the very indepth guide to the area written by my South African friend Tony: https://bbqboy.net/garden-route-little-karoo-travel-tips/

January 28, 2016 at 5:48 pm

Thanks Richard. That’s a bit of a plug but I don’t mind it, I love a good cheesecake. Honestly, South Africa should be on the blogger list of foodie destinations – we had so much excellent food (and wine) over 3 months there at good value.

January 25, 2016 at 7:18 am

Thanks Dee! You’d love it here – with all the flowers and butterflies you’d be in heaven!

January 22, 2016 at 11:43 am

Actually that’s an area I’d like to go to if we ever go back to Thailand. Thanks for the tip.

January 22, 2016 at 2:59 am

Thanks for taking the time to comment Dana! Yes, it has to be one of the most beautiful places we’ve seen 🙂

January 21, 2016 at 6:15 pm

You’re right, I don’t like the idea of them putting chum to attract them. It’s like those trophy hunters, basically everything is set up so that the only thing left is pulling the trigger. The idea is to see them in ‘nature’, not contrived circumstances.

I still can’t believe you guys are shipped in to places like Sabi Sand to write a review. I’ve got to find out your secret.

The Western Cape is incredible and we’ve seen so much beauty. I think we’d like to be back one day.

January 21, 2016 at 7:31 am

During our 2 weeks on the Garden Route I would say the average would be $80 US/night. Cape Town you get get in all price ranges, including some really exclusive luxury stuff. So yes, not cheap at all.

January 21, 2016 at 5:39 am

‘Drive” by the Cars? No, I like my driving music to keep me awake. Don’t worry Tony, listen to it about 10 times and you’ll be writing me back saying that you bought their album 🙂 And you’ll get a mohawk and be attending punk rock concerts at Foufounes Electriques! Actually you’re right about Buffelsdrift, Lissette got so excited seeing if she could spot animals on the other side of the lake. That giraffe was actually way across the lake and she somehow saw it in the distance. So yes, we’ll have to go on a real safari sometime next year. Plan at this point would be to come back next winter and see more of the northern part of the country. I’m actually sad to be leaving 🙁 Thanks Tony.

January 21, 2016 at 5:31 am

Great, glad to hear you thought the same! 🙂

January 21, 2016 at 5:29 am

Cape Town has actually been our most expensive destination in a year and a half of full time travelling, mostly because of rents and the short supply of furnished, short-term apartments (we use Airbnb). Rent alone has been approx $1700 USD/mo, averaging out the 2 places we’ve been. Would be a lot cheaper anywhere else in SA but Cape Town has booming real estate prices. Other than that everything in line with Eastern Europe, maybe even cheaper. Bottles of wine in the $4-6 US range (generally), grocery shopping like Budapest (or Bangkok)…it’s really the rents that are absurd. Totally everything, monthly costs came to about $3000 USD excluding tours. Excluding rent, that’s in line with other places we’ve been.

January 21, 2016 at 5:17 am

Now that would be exciting! I’d pay to see that and I’ve got a few travel bloggers in mind 🙂

Thanks so much Paula! I don’t know how they got her out. I would have cut off her clothes, greased her up with whale blubber, and gotten a couple of big guys to pull her out by her ankles.. Would have cost less then 50,000 R. Hope you get here sometime Paula, it’s a beautiful country!

January 20, 2016 at 8:34 pm

Thank you very much!! I can’t recommend South Africa more highly, we’ve been here almost 3 months and sad to be leaving 🙁

January 20, 2016 at 8:08 pm

I thought you had dogs Kemkem? We passed the whole holiday getting licked by other people’s dogs. I had a Lab who spent 5 minutes licking the gap between my toes (felt pretty good too). It went back to licking its balls when it was fed up with that. What I’m saying is that compared to having a dog licking you all over being pecked by an ostrich is the most hygienic thing that’ll happen to you. You’re such a princess. Wait until you find out what we did next, we actually had you in mind 😉 You’ll freak out.

January 20, 2016 at 4:13 pm

I hope that P stands for pee and not poop 🙂 I’d actually be more afraid of drowning under water than seeing a shark coming at me while protected by a cage. Thanks for taking the time to comment Rebecca.

January 20, 2016 at 4:10 pm

Thanks Ric! Yes, was a great trip 😉

January 20, 2016 at 1:00 pm

Those Frenchmen are always crazy. That’s quite the undertaking.

January 20, 2016 at 7:51 am

Do you have those kinds of Mountain Ranges in Australia? I know about the Blue Mountains but generally mostly flat, no? Yeah, I think I’m more afraid of Australian animals than African. Seems everything, on both land and ocean, will kill you in Australia. But I think you are right there are many similarities. South Africans are tough and have adapted to the environment: very sports orientated, friendly, many (especially in the Karoo) blast around in their pickups…they actually remind me of most Australians I’ve ever known.

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Home > South Africa > Road Trip > Karoo-sing through the Quirky, Spectacular Karoo Desert (Hectic Route Day 11)

Karoo-sing through the Quirky, Spectacular Karoo Desert (Hectic Route Day 11)

Some days on a road trip, the trip itself is the highlight. You relax, take your time, and savor the sights along the way. Day 11 of our Johannesburg to Cape Town road trip, The Hectic Route , where we Karoo-sed through the desert, was one of those days. 

Today, we're going to shut up and let the pictures do the talking (…but still included some captions so you know what the pictures are about).

Related: How to Have an Even Better South Africa Road Trip than Ours

6:00-8:30: Roaming Around Nieu Bethesda

8:30-9:40: Local Artisanal Platter from Two Goats and a Deli

9:40-12:00: Driving from Nieu Bethesda to Willowmore

12:00-13:11: Pit Stop in Willowmore and Sophie's Choice

13:11-15:52: Driving to and Through Meiringspoort Pass

15:52-19:15: Hanging Out in Prince Albert

19:15-21:15: Karoo Kombuis Dinner

Next Up (Hectic Route Day 12): A Delightfully Conventional Day around Outdshoorn and Route 62

How to Have an Even Better South Africa Road Trip than Ours

For everything from safety tips to how to find the best rental car to what our absolute favorite experiences are, check out our South Africa road trip tips.

Disclosure: Whenever possible, we use links that earn us a cut if you pay for stuff we recommend. It costs you nothing, so we'd be crazy not to. Read our affiliate policy .

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KAROO HIGHLANDS ROUTE

Main centres:  Carnarvon ,  Williston ,  Fraserburg ,  Loxton ,  Vorsburg  and  Victoria West

Region:  Colloquially known as the Karoo Highlands

Ever yearned for a space so vast that the horizon continues into the future? Or to see the stars so clearly you feel that you touch them? The Karoo Highlands Route is where you can experience such uniqueness. The area is renowned for the hospitality of its farming community.

Whether you’ll be admiring the inimitability of the corbelled houses or looking back in time at the Gansfontein palaeo-surface, your heart will surely be touched by this region as never before. The Karoo Highlands Route is situated in the southern part of the Northern Cape. The route covers the small Karoo towns of Nieuwoudtville, Calvinia, Williston, Sutherland, Fraserburg, Carnarvon, Loxton and Victoria West, and forms the heart of the Great Karoo.

The Karoo is the home of peace and tranquillity where you can recharge your batteries while exploring the wide open plains dotted with  koppies  (hills). This is a place where a huge  telescope  allows you to look back to the beginnings of our universe 13-billion years ago, and where pre-dinosaurs roamed the Earth and the first people gazed up to the heavens. People have lived on this massive plateau, the largest of its kind outside Asia, for about 500 000 years. The Khoi and San people who left their legacy as art on the rocks gave the Karoo its name.

The area’s name comes from “ karusa ”, a Khoi word that means dry, barren, thirstland. This aptly describes this region, where water is scarce. It is an ancient, fossil-rich land, with some important archaeological sites, as well as the largest variety of succulents found anywhere on Earth: there are more than 9 000 plant species in the Great Karoo.

The route offers plenty of interesting attractions, such as Karoo architecture and corbelled houses; Anglo-Boer War sites; rock art; ancient palaeo-surfaces; farm stays; and medicinal plants.

Things to do in the Karoo Highlands

There is a lot to do on this small but unique route. The area is famous for its successful sheep farming, and it is one of the best stargazing destinations in the world. In the Karoo there is something for every traveller – there are quiet and scenic vast landscapes, friendly local people, traditional food and a whole lot of adventure. The various small towns, including  Carnarvon ,  Loxton ,  Victoria West ,  Vosburg  and  Williston , each offer something different from the other.

Natural Splendour

A self-drive excursion through the  Appie van Heerden Nature Reserve  is a sight for sore eyes in this arid part of the Northern Cape. The 860ha nature reserve is located just outside Carnarvon, and here you will see spectacular Karoo veld vegetation that forms part of the Karee mountains. Spot various wild animals, including besbok, black wildebeest, zebra, springbok and gemsbok – all of which used to roam this part of the country freely before the commencement of sheep farming in the region.

Adventure and adrenaline

Enjoy a walk in and around the town of Victoria West. The town was established in 1844 and named after Queen Victoria of England. There are lots of discoveries to be made, such as the 1950s art-deco cinema found at the  Apollo Theatre , as well as the town’s museum with archaeological displays of fossils that once roamed the area and the Anglican church that was built here in 1847.

You will spot plenty of birdlife and plant life as you make your way to Moonlight Hill, where various hiking trails lead you to spectacular views of the Karoo landscape.

Eat and sleep

The Carnarvon Hotel offers affordable accommodation in the heart of the Karoo. The hotel has comfortable accommodation, a large hall for functions and meetings, a barbecue area, and the famous Blikkies bar. Attractions close to the hotel include the Carnarvon Museum that was built in in 1907.

Highlights on the Karoo Highlands Route

Hantam Vleisfees –  The Hantam Vleisfees is an annual meat and music festival celebrating Calvinia in the Northern Cape. Various meat dishes are sold at the festival and prepared in different ways – braaied, stewed, curried, in pita breads, on sosaties and in potjies. This is a proudly South African experience and a must for visitors travelling through this part of the province.

For more information, contact +27 (0)27 341 8200 or email  [email protected] .

Williston Winter Festival  – This annual festival celebrates the end of winter and highlights the culture, heritage and history of the people in this part of the Karoo. Local performances include the riel dance, a traditional group courtship dance performed in a circle. During the dance, ladies stay on one side while the men mock-battle in a way that narrates a story.

For more information and general enquiries, email  [email protected] . 

Download the Karoo Highlands Route map

Download the open africa 'cape of many routes' write-up below, cities and towns on this route.

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VICTORIA WEST

Established in 1843 and named after Queen Victoria of England. Victoria West marks the…

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The alternative guide to the Karoo, South Africa

The final part of our alt South Africa series journeys to the huge semi-desert expanse of the Karoo – the country’s ‘soul space’, which attracts eccentrics, hippies, crafters, outsider artists, and road-trippers Alt guides to Joburg , Cape Town , Port Elizabeth , Durban and Pretoria

• 2 Frontier bars and farm stalls
• 3 Festivals in Karoo
• 4 Karoo food tradition
• 5 The Karoo art scene
• 6 The Karoo outdoors
• 7 Readers’ tips and Instagram shots

By Chris Marais and Julienne du Toit, authors of Karoo Keepsakes I and Karoo Keepsakes II – Traveller’s Companions to the Heartland of South Africa

The Karoo is South Africa’s magical desert space, its version of New Mexico, the Outback or the Gobi. A vast, ancient seabed straddling the midriff of the country, the Karoo (a Bushman word for “dry place”) is the size of Germany. In the past two centuries, more than 100 towns, villages, settlements and railway sidings have sprung up in the region, but the population has always been sparse, never topping the one-million mark.

These open plains, mostly surrounded by flat-topped hills and mountains in the distance, are South Africa’s soul spaces. They have also become the permanent home of some of the country’s most creative people, in the form of novelists, outsider artists, crafters, musicians, eccentrics, town champions, beer brewers, chefs, sculptors, internet wizards, funky hoteliers and a new breed of dynamic young farmer. These days, the Karoo feels the beat of the AfrikaBurn Festival deep in the Tankwa desert as the crowds light up the night with fire, full-volume sounds and a creative passion.

This is the age of the Karoo road trip, where you set aside as many days as you can spare, fill up the petrol tank and head out on a dead-straight blacktop that could become a dirt road, complete with wine, meat on the coals and a sky full of stars. And it’s the least expensive holiday you can have in South Africa.

You can’t get from Johannesburg to Cape Town without crossing the Karoo. A hundred years ago, long before the N1 Great North Road, the route through the interior was tough, tortuous and constantly punctuated with farmers’ gates. People travelled this way armed with large bags of boiled sweets to reward the children who would open the gates.

This countryside has seen the plodding progress of the large dinosaur-like reptile bradysaurus, which thrived here 250-odd million years ago in the Permian period, and the fleet footsteps of Africa’s first people, the Bushmen, on the hunt for eland. On a stroll, you may discover fossils, Bushmen arrowheads, settler coat buttons and spent cartridges from a Boer War skirmish. It has been scored by the passage of millions of springbok on their migrations across the plains, devouring all before them. It has witnessed the arrival (in about the fifth century AD) of the Khoikhoi with their flocks of goats and fat-tailed sheep, to be followed by the European-origin trekboers (itinerant farmers), many of whom ultimately formed the farming communities that still occupy the land.

Today, your journey might involve trading stores, a pub crawl in the middle of nowhere, a random anti-fracking protest march in a mountain village and the lure of the never-ending road.

They say at first one travels from place to place; then one travels from face to face, as happens in the Karoo. Here are some of the faces you’ll encounter.

Frontier bars and farm stalls

By Wally Lange, co-owner of the Tankwa Padstal (roadside farm stall) on the R355 between Ceres in the Western Cape and Calvinia in the Northern Cape

When Tankwa Padstal was burned down by an arsonist in September 2014, the AfrikaBurners (festivalgoers), the bikers who pass here, and the road-trippers heading north all donated money to rebuild it, along with odd bits of decor to furnish it. We were up and going again within three months.

We are almost next to the Tankwa Karoo national park , the closest true desert to Cape Town. The young people who come to this area want the dry heat, the clean air and the stripped-down environment.

Sometimes I’m amazed at the people we see. They look like sushi eaters who should be on Clifton beach in Cape Town, but here they are, dazzled by the heat and the rough roads and the huge distances. There’s no cell phone signal and their hire cars really look like they’ve been through the mill.

But a few days later, when they come back from the national park or AfrikaBurn or wherever they’ve been, they look happy and relaxed. Lots of them don’t want to leave. They hang around here the whole day, eating and drinking and swimming, offering to work for free.

As a family, we know all the great local hideaways. Apart from our bar, there are two other drinking spots worth visiting: the pub at Gannaga Lodge , which serves real traditional Karoo food like mutton neck stew and grilled lamb tails, and the Onverklaar Bar, part of the Tankwa Tented Camp . The Onverklaar Bar (Undeclared Bar) has many surprises and delights, including a large wooden box called Pandora, which is full of dressing-up costumes – perfect for that Tankwa pop-up party. Guests at the tented camp are its main patrons, but passers-by are also welcomed.

There’s another popular place close to us, called Die Mond (The Mouth), which is a green oasis in the middle of the desert. The resort lies beside a large body of water and consists of a campsite and a cluster of basic bungalows. Hot water and wind-powered LED lighting is available, but there’s no cellphone reception.

When we’re in Calvinia, we check in at the local butchery and then the Rustic Art guest house. The guest house is part of the recently launched Republic of Rusticana, full of old enamel signs, found objects, paintings, ceramics and tastefully decorated car wrecks. The owners, Dirk and Sonja van Rensburg, are lovely eccentrics, Karoo hippies who welcome you into their home.

Festivals in Karoo

By Pieter Naude, co-founder of the Williston Mall and the Williston Winter Festival

Karoo cultural events bring visitors and locals together in a special way. Take the Williston Winter Festival , which we stage in the first week of September every year. It’s a celebration of the Nama Riel, a traditional dance with really catchy music that tells stories of hunting and courtship.

The Nama Riel has a deep history, going back to the days of the first people of the Karoo – the Bushmen. It was then taken up by others – Khoikhoi herders and later farmworkers in the region. There are Nama Riel dancing groups all over the Northern Cape these days, participating in cultural festivals and performing in their home towns at the weekend. Because dances are traditionally held on deep sand and involve swift kicking motions, the locals say it’s a good Nama Riel if “the dust rises before you”. The riel almost disappeared for decades, but is now enjoying a massive revival, and they’re starting to teach it in the schools of Williston. The community has incredible pride in the dance. In fact, I’d say it’s more popular around here than rugby.

Festivals, like ours and the Draad Karretjie (wire car) Grand Prix in Philipstown are a great way for visitors to gain insight into the culture of the Karoo. Just don’t expect anything too packaged and polished. There was nothing much happening in Philipstown before the locals realised that their own crafters made the finest wire car models around. Four years ago the first Philipstown Wire Car Grand Prix was held, which sees the community’s young people go on a mad dash through the village streets. Now it’s grown into a one-day festival held every year in October, and it’s become famous with visitors from all over joining in the fun.

In the last weekend of August, a week before our winter festival, Calvinia (80 miles west of Williston) holds its Hantam Vleisfees (Meat Festival), but it’s not only about chops, steaks and spicy sausage. Veteran tractors chug up from the Western Cape, and there is traditional boer music. The Middelpos Bazaar is also one of our favourite events. Middelpos is one of the tiniest settlements in the Karoo, made famous by the great UK-based (but South African born) actor Antony Sher in his book, Middelpost. The church bazaar is in September and it’s held in the street. We go down there to support all the stalls selling regional cheeses, meat and biltong. Then we dance the night away to the sounds of a boere orkes – a farmers’ orchestra, complete with accordion, piano and guitar.

Next year, I’m going to paint my toenails and attend AfrikaBurn again. The little African brother of Nevada’s Burning Man is held over a week every autumn (April 25 to May 1 this year) on a private farm called Stonehenge, adjacent to the Tankwa Karoo national park. When it began in 2007, barely 1,000 people came – now there’s a 2016 attendance cap of 11,700 tickets. It’s the most vibey, peaceful mass collection of celebrating South Africans you’ll find. People go there to be creative and have fun – it’s a temporary city of art, theme camps, costume, music and performance. It culminates with the night-burning of various giant artworks but really ends with the Moop (matter out of place) patrol, where hundreds of people pick up every last trace of human detritus, leaving the festival grounds as clean as they found them.

Karoo food tradition

By Gordon Wright, Slow Food Karoo chef

Karoo food has never strayed beyond the traditional. If you talk meat here, you’re talking Karoo lamb, mutton and venison. The hunters and herders ate this food, along with veldkos – the indigenous plant food that the Bushmen first pointed out to the colonists.

I would point visitors to restaurants in the town of Graaff-Reinet , like the newly opened Meerkat Deli or the Coldstream . The Meerkat Deli offers a selection of sliced meats, Karoo cheeses and a variety of home-grown organic items like pickled agave buds and glazed figs, to eat there or on the go. The Coldstream, named after the British regimental unit that occupied Graaff-Reinet during the Anglo-Boer War, is where you go for meat dishes of ostrich, beef and springbok.

And I really recommend braais (barbecues) with friends, old or new. Self-catering places in Graaff-Reinet normally come complete with outside braai facilities, so you can make dinner the adventure of the day: hunt down the local butcher, ask for good lamb chops. You will probably find that the meat comes from a farm nearby, and the town has its own recipe for sosaties – lamb or beef kebabs usually marinated in lightly curried sweet and sour sauce. Let them advise you on how to cook them, then gather up something to drink at the Drostdy Hotel wine shop, perhaps one of the Rupert labels like the 2013 Terra del Capo Arne, a juicy red. Pop in briefly at the supermarket for some green stuff and a bag of braai wood and you’re good to go.

On the second night, drop in at the Graaff-Reinet Club , a historic former gentleman’s establishment that still has about 250 stalwart members but welcomes visitors. Order a cold one and you’ll soon find the members are pretty friendly. The chances are that an hour or so later, you’ll be enjoying some true Karoo dining hospitality in good company. The point is, in the Karoo you’re a traveller, not a tourist. You are encouraged to interact with the locals you find here. The social life is what makes this region special for us.

When we visit neighbouring towns in the region, we like to eat at the Karoo Lamb (where pot-cooked meals are the speciality) and the Brewery and Two Goats Deli (for Karoo Ale and ploughman’s platters starring goat’s cheese and kudu salami) in Nieu Bethesda (30 miles north of Graff-Reinet); Mila’s , 100 miles east of Graff-Reinet in Cradock, for superb pizzas and wonderful local warmth, and the Victoria Manor Hotel (the elegant 1850s-era grand hotel serving traditional Karoo dishes), also in Cradock; the Butcherbird (fine dining) in Bedford (50 miles south of Cradock); and a brand new daytime venue in Tarkastad called The Story , which serves eggs benedict breakfasts, interesting salads and light lunches.

The Karoo art scene

By Charmaine Haines, one of South Africa’s leading ceramicists

Semi-deserts like the Karoo often attract creative souls. These are places where the mind can open up, places for retrospection and reflection, an authentic life experience. The Karoo is a sacred space, and many people recognise that. Even so, the high standard of the art comes as quite a surprise to visitors.

The town of Nieu Bethesda, where I live, rose to fame because of a very eccentric woman called Helen Martins who was an outsider artist . Whenever anything is written about the Art Brut movement, the Owl House of Nieu Bethesda is mentioned. Back in the 1960s, Helen turned her family home into what would become the outsider art centre of the Karoo, and a great tourist attraction for Nieu Bethesda. With her craftsman-assistant, Koos Malgas, she worked in cement and glass, building an imaginarium that drew from all religions and told many stories – the Three Wise Men, something from Omar Khayyam, in the corner stands an all-seeing owl and there’s a cross-legged Buddha. Playwright Athol Fugard ’s play and subsequent film, The Road to Mecca, was based on the life and work of Helen Martins. Today, the Owl House is a museum.

For artists, the Karoo is an incredible place. For example, my neighbour Annette van der Hulst, who is a seamstress, once asked someone for a kudu horn. People got to hear of this, so soon she had a long stream of people bringing her kudu and cow horns. Eventually, she worked out a way of putting an appliqué (needlework technique) of Shweshwe (a printed dyed cotton fabric widely used for traditional clothing) and other scraps of cloth on them – sort of a fusion modern art kind of thing. You’d never get that happening in a city. The Karoo forces you to see and use what is around you.

I’d recommend going to the Bethesda Art Centre , which exhibits the most amazing lino-cuts, and appliquéd quilts, telling the myths, narrative and dreams of the Karoo and South Africa. There’s an amazing series of lino-cuts that depict the Karoo under threat of fracking – it tells the story beautifully. The threat of fracking and uranium mining in the region has evoked new ways of expression, and a degree of urgency to save it. There have been quite a few exhibitions on the subject, the prime one being Fear & Loss , which has been moving around the country, and which looks at the interplay of heritage, culture, politics and economics and the way all of this impacts on the land and the communities who live on it.

Then there is Frans Boekkooi , who is a world-class sculptor who fashions slim, finely balanced figures (including a bust of South African playwright Athol Fugard) out of his own amalgam of resins and metals. He has his studio on the way to the Brewery and Two Goats Deli (covered earlier in the Gordon Wright food section) in Bethesda. Everything is in walking distance here.

In Graaff-Reinet, the Rupert family have several galleries and their collections are always worth seeing. The Drosty Hotel has an art gallery next to the wine shop, but the Ruperts’ main displays are at the Hester Rupert Art Museum , which holds more than 100 works by famous South African artists - Maud Sumner, Maggie Laubser, Irma Stern, Gregoire Boonzaier – in a beautiful Dutch Reformed Mission Church , dating from 1821, the fifth oldest church building in South Africa.

Another town I really recommend for anyone interested in art is Prince Albert . The town just flows with creativity, from galleries and photography to weaving and food. Using a great little guide called the Prince Albert Arts and Design Map (available from the Tourism Association office in Church Street), you can visit the Prince Albert Gallery (regular exhibitions by artists working in many disciplines), an evening one-man show called Art After Dark , the Watershed (a series of art showrooms), Karoo Looms and Striking Metal , where you can watch a blacksmith at work. And I love those wire and bead angels made by the Vondeling women’s co-operative near Willowmore . What a winning concept. They hit it so right.

The Karoo outdoors

By Alan Hobson, fly-fisherman and guide

Over the years, I’ve taken many visitors out along the river courses and dams up in the mountains of the Karoo. Invariably, the first question they’ll ask me is: “Can I get mobile reception here?” When they realise they’re totally disconnected from their devices, their faces register shock. And then they begin to focus on their immediate surrounds - the landscape, the moment of being out in a sweeping jumble of big mountains, thick bush, vast valleys and along the Little Fish river where, hopefully, they will catch a trout or a yellowfish. And that’s when the magic happens, the stress falls away and the outdoor learning begins.

If you have a good guide, a walk through the Karoo is an incredible experience. One sight of a fossil embedded in a riverbank takes you back hundreds of millions of years. The next moment you’re watching a life or death struggle between an ant lion and its prey. Or, as you prepare to fish at the riverside, you focus on the minute movements of a dragonfly over the water.

There’s no quick-fix, fast-food way of thinking out here. You come with an enquiring mind, you come low-tech and you come prepared to experience and learn about whatever you encounter. We have a great and growing network of farmstays like Glen Avon , Somerset East; Wellwood , Graaf-Reinet; Doornberg and Ganora , Nieu Bethesda; Hillston and Melsetter , Middelburg; or Lowlands , near Cradock. Karoo farmstays are authentic, fun to visit and inexpensive. Add to that our national parks: Cradock’s Mountain Zebra national park , Graaff-Reinet’s Camdeboo , Beaufort West’s Karoo , Kimberley’s Mokala , the Namaqua on the north-western coastline, and the Tankwa Karoo . All are wonderful places to begin your relationship with the Karoo outdoors.

You might think there’s nothing to do at night out here. You would be wrong. Just sit around the braai fire, listen to the stories. Ask a farmer or your guide to take you on a slow drive through a Karoo landscape on a moonlit night. You will be amazed at the wealth of creatures that emerge: hedgehogs, porcupine, aardvark, wild cats.

Then go quiet and try to pick out the yelp of the jackal out there in the dark, or the sound of the nightjar calling. Before you go to sleep, move away from the firelight, get comfortable in your sleeping bag and look up at the stars. You’ve never seen them so close, and in such multitudes.

Readers’ tips and Instagram shots

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Near Sutherland

Sutherland, a couple of hours’ drive east of Tankwa Karoo national park, sits on top of a plateau in a part of the Karoo known commonly as the Moordenaars Karoo (Killers Karoo), probably because it is so sparsely populated and the landscape so unforgivingly dry. But its clear air makes for cool summers and freezing winters (it sometimes snows in Sutherland), and for an ideal place in which to locate one of South Africa’s most important astronomical observatories . The town itself – like so many Karoo dorpies (villages) – is small and pretty, and the observatory is really worth a visit, but hiking in this incredible landscape is an extraordinary experience. sartjie

Life in the Karoo isn’t easy, but those who live there and work the land are surrounded by a starkly beautiful landscape. jankaap

Karoo night drive wildlife

Take time to travel on a dirt road at night in the Karoo because besides the star-studded sky you will see an amazing array of nocturnal animals. We were so lucky to see a huge shooting star on our trip on a dirt road outside the Karoo town of Richmond (75 miles west of Middelburg). We also saw two different types of hares including the elusive riverine rabbit, an owl, a fox, a jackal, a duiker and a pair of equally elusive aardwolf. It was amazing to see how alive this piece of dry land became at night. Donsievanwyk

Booktown festival, Richmond The little town of Richmond boast three excellent secondhand bookstores , Classic Books , Richmond Books and Prints and The Book Orphanage all situated in in beautiful Victorian houses in Loop street. The town also hosts the annual Richmond Book Festival where writers and poets from all over the world gather to celebrate literature. Donsievanwyk

Red Stone Hills Rent a cottage at this amazing farm, set in some surprising geological formations that will change the way you think about the Karoo. We stayed here for just one night and are longing to return. The stars, the birds, the stillness make this the heart of the Karoo for us. Near Oudtshoorn, Western Cape, itself full of surprises, and easy to get to with a car, but you’ll feel like you’re on a different, magical planet. Doubles from around £30, redstone.co.za esdee

The Swartberg mountains

A friend drove us out to his favourite local spot at sunset. We all live in Prince Albert, which is on the very edge of the Swartberg, which is a micro-biosphere with numbers of unique plants and a huge range of fauna. Between Prince Albert and Oudtshoorn lie two routes – the pass over the mountains, and the Meiringspoort pass which follows the winding path of the river between spectacular, lichen covered red mountains, and past a waterfall which fills the lake below, believed for many years to be the home of a mermaid. On the way, one may see baboons, mongoose, leopard tortoises, small gazelles and, between dusk and early morning, the beautiful kudu antelope. MrsSpinster

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The Great Karoo: Where to go, what to see

• A sprawling semi-desert covering most of South-Central interior region of South Africa.
• Endless horizons and parched earth.
• Incredible landscapes, sunsets and stars.

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What is there to see in the Great Karoo?

Where is the great karoo.

The Great or ‘Groot’ Karoo is the name given to the sprawling semi-desert that covers much of the south-central interior of South Africa. Its boundaries are not clearly defined, but you know when you’re in it: endless horizons, parched earth and the occasional rusty windmill creaking in the breeze. It’s the harsh emptiness that makes the Great Karoo so special. Although it can be ferociously hot in summer and blanketed in snow in winter, the incredible landscapes, sunsets, and stars are worth any discomfort and are unlike anything else in South Africa.

The main N1 highway between Johannesburg and Cape Town runs directly through the Great Karoo for hundreds of kilometers. Some consider this the most tedious section of the drive, but if you turn off onto the backroads you’ll find yourself suddenly absorbed, cruising miles of sinuous gravel through sleepy desert towns.

Detours to take in the Great Karoo

Take the dirt roads from Colesberg to Ceres and spend a few extra days – you have to slow down a bit to get the best out of the Karoo.

If you don’t have time for a big detour, the Karoo National Park is just off the N1 highway and is a great stopover to get a taste for the landscape. You may get lucky and see a lion. Otherwise, it’s about meandering your way through.

A 4×4 is not required, but you’ll have more choice if you’re able to camp. Sutherland is a popular stop and the home of the largest optical telescope in the Southern Hemisphere – SALT. Also, check out the Tankwa Karoo National Park, which borders the Great Karoo to the west and has lovely self-catering cottages. Most travellers opt for car rental to accommodate their travel plans.

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Home » Destinations » South Africa » Garden Route » Route 62 & The Karoo

Route 62 & The Karoo Holidays

• Things to do on Route 62

Discover South Africa's

Road less traveled.

Journey along the iconic Route 62 and unlock the heart of the Karoo. Swap bustling highways for scenic mountain passes, discover quaint towns brimming with character, explore unique attractions, and encounter a sense of timeless wonder amidst the Karoo’s expansive beauty. This enchanting route invites you to discover the unexpected and find authentic South African experiences away from the crowds.

Our Recommended

Route 62 & karoo tours.

 Embrace the magic of Route 62 and the Karoo on thoughtfully crafted tours. Embark on leisurely self-drives, explore family-friendly itineraries, or combine Route 62’s hidden gems with other top South African destinations.

Classic Victoria Falls & Botswana Safari

• From USD 4,799 Per Person Sharing

Luxury Botswana & Cape Town By Belmond

• From USD 8,317 Per Person Sharing

9-Day Classic Botswana Safari

• From USD 8,090 Per Person Sharing

In Route 62 & The Karoo

Uncover the diverse allure of Route 62 and the Karoo, where endless skies, quaint towns, and unforgettable adventures await under the South African sun.

Discover Quirky Towns & Local Treasures

Follow Route 62's winding roads and meander through captivating towns like Montagu, Barrydale, and historic Robertson. Explore local arts and crafts, taste farm-fresh cuisine, and discover the stories these hidden gems hold.

Where time slows and warm welcomes await in every town.

Explore the Cango Caves

Descend into the heart of the Earth at the spectacular Cango Caves. Admire otherworldly limestone formations carved by nature over millennia, and marvel at the vast natural chambers beneath the earth.

Journey to the center of the Earth, where wonders unfold

Embark on a Wildlife Safari

Encounter wild encounters at unique reserves like Sanbona. From elusive leopards to the rare white lion, this region offers diverse game viewing and a safari experience that blends wildlife with wide-open Karoo landscapes.

Where wildlife roam under a canopy of endless stars

Unwind in Wine Country

Delight in the fruits of the land as Route 62 winds through South Africa's wine regions. Sample award-winning vintages, savor meals overlooking tranquil vineyards, and breathe in the air of relaxation within the Winelands.

Discover South Africa's flavors along the longest wine route.

Discover Starlit Nights in the Karoo

Let the vast Karoo skies ignite your sense of wonder. With minimal light pollution, marvel at the brilliance of the Milky Way, spot distant constellations, and find cosmic beauty above the arid landscapes.

Where the starlight becomes your compass.

Journey to the center of the Earth, where wonders unfold.

Where wildlife roam under a canopy of endless stars.

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Route 62 & the karoo tours.

Guest Reviews For Route 62 & The Karoo

Read full review, great experience, everything lived up to our expectations, hans-juergen & ursula e, we absolutely enjoyed our garden route trip, we had a great trip to south africa and everything went so well, a true lifetime holiday experience in south africa, rovos rail was definitely the highlight of our south africa holiday, christine b, memorable time in zimbabwe and south africa, magdalena p, the concept of private wild life reserve is impressive, all in all one hell of a good trip in the garden route, route 62 & the karoo, in our blog, 2024 travel trends, types of safaris, africa beach holiday, enquire about, your african safari.

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Driving the Klein Karoo loop

The Klein Karoo (Little Karoo) , in South Africa’s Western Cape province, is a region of astounding contrasts and boasts the imposing Swartberg mountains, green fertile valleys and desert plains, charming villages and towns, and South Africa’s largest ostrich breeding industry. A visit to the Klein Karoo, a few hours’ drive east of Cape Town , is a must in my book, and can easily be combined with the immensely popular Route 62 and Garden Route.

This loop, which winds around and through the rugged Swartberg mountains, is one of my favourite drives. You can start the loop in Oudtshoorn , the ostrich capital of South Africa, with its distinct Afrikaans atmosphere. Route 62 runs through the town, making it a popular stop for visitors. Oudtshoorn also has a varied selection of restaurants. One restaurant I enjoyed is in the Queen’s Hotel , where I also stayed. Try the crocodile carpaccio or one of the ostrich specialties! Search for hotels in Oudtshoorn

From Oudtshoorn, head east towards the quaint village of De Rust . The route takes you through the plains which are dotted with ostrich farms, alfalfa grass fields and the occasional vineyard. De Rust is worth a stop to explore the lovely main street lined with beautiful Cape Dutch houses and old jacaranda trees.

Prince Albert

Then drive through the Meiringspoort , an extraordinary gorge which offers a wonderful insight into the geology of the mountains – look up and gawk at the dramatic wave-like layers that form the Swartberg mountains. At the other end of the gorge, turn westwards to Prince Albert . The vegetation on this side of the mountain range is noticeably different; drier, less verdant and more shrubby. The drive to Prince Albert is lovely and leads you along the foot of the Swartberg range, over gentle rolling hills. Prince Albert is a charming village surrounded by fruit orchards. It’s a perfect place for a lunch stop. It’s also a lovely place to spend a night or two to enjoy the solitude of the Klein Karoo. One accommodation I can recommend is De Bergkant Lodge .

Swartberg Pass

From Prince Albert, head back towards the Swartberg mountains over the Swartberg Pass . This pass is more than 20kms long (along a winding, cliff-hanging gravel road with many blind corners…be careful when driving here) and reaches a height of about 1500m. The geology of the area, exemplified by the many folds, crevices, cracks and intriguing rock formations which you’ll see during the drive, is quite astonishing. The views from the top of the arid Karoo plain and the verdant valleys below are truly spectacular.

A harrowing experience

I had a pretty harrowing experience driving up through the Swartberg Pass. I was very careful as the road was quite uneven and the steep drop of several hundred meters on my right wasn’t exactly comforting. I slowed down to take in the view and my friend and I had our windows open. I stayed close to the cliff wall on the left which meant the car often brushed up against the prickly bushes which grew along the roadside.

I was driving at a snail’s pace when I suddenly noticed something move in a bush we were about to pass. The bush was about to brush up against my door when I realised what it was: a snake curled up in the bush. The last thing I wanted was for a snake to drop into my lap so I made a quick swerve to the right. My friend, who was in the passenger seat, started yelling as I swerved. The car jerked to the right as I tried desperately to get the car back onto the middle of the road. With a bit of luck, we were back on the road a few seconds later. I hit the brake and broke out into a cold sweat. I’d been inches away from running the car off the cliff!!

Cango Caves

On the other side of the Swartberg mountain range, the scenery becomes more gentle and green. It’s a wonderful, eye-pleasing drive back to Oudtshoorn. If you have the time, you can also visit the Cango Caves – the subterranean limestone formations there are fascinating.

If you’re visiting the Western Cape, I highly recommend touring around the Klein Karoo. You can easily spend a few days in Oudtshoorn or Prince Albert and drive this loop in a day. Read more about the best road trips from Cape Town .

Read other Velvet Escape posts on South Africa:

• Driving the Cape Peninsula loop
• Cederberg: mountain passes, safaris & San rock art
• The marine life of the Western Cape
• Things to do in Stellenbosch
• Places to visit in the Cape Winelands

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Haha, thanks Lori! It was a scary experience but a great story to tell. 🙂

Cheers, Keith

WOW – I guess this is the thrill of traveling 🙂 You had some truly amazing adventures, Keith! Loved this post!

Thanks D&D! Yup, it was a very close call. The thought of that moment still makes me shudder. 🙂 It’s a magnificent Pass to drive through though. I highly recommend it.

Now that was a scary encounter. I can’t believe you almost ran the car off the road and almost had a snake fall in your lap from cliffside. But it is exciting when you survive to tell about it. We cycled through the Western Cape in 2008. It is beautiful. As is most of South Africa:)

Thanks for your comment. The Cango Caves are pretty awesome. I absolutely loved my visits to the Klein Karoo – it truly is a stunning region.

That picture of the Cango Caves is beautiful, reminds me of Gruta Lupa Doce in Brazil!

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The 15 Most Picturesque Places to Visit in the Karoo

The karoo is vast and places to visit in the karoo are myriad. ...

Divided into the Succulent, Nama, Klein and Grassy Karoo it straddles most of South Africa’s inner country.

Hogging the west coast, sprawling as far east as Cradock and Smithfield, extending northwards as far as Putsonderwater, and encroaching south on the Western Cape towns of Barrydale, Oudtshoorn and Robertson.

Picturesque places to visit in the Karoo, some would argue, depend on the eye of the beholder, but we think you’ll agree that none of these is worth passing over.

The 15 most picturesque places to visit in the Karoo

The view from ronnies sex shop.

Ronnies Sex Shop, on a lesser-known bit of Route 62 just beyond Barrydale , has little to do with sex, and everything to do with getting passersby to stop.

Enjoy a beer, a dip in the pool or a great slice of carrot cake while you’re at it. And the views from here are pretty spectacular too, particularly late afternoon during autumn.

The pass into Die Hel

The Swartberg valley cleft down into a valley where time stood still, quite literally for years ( read up on the story ), is a difficult but beautiful drive, particularly on an off-road bike.

The windpumps of Loeriesfontein

Get your camera out for this one, best seen in autumn or winter for those brilliant blue skies.

If the creaking blades don’t get to you, the stillness of this little town soon will, but the Fred Turner Windpump Museum is a MUST.

The world’s southernmost Quiver tree forest

You’ll find signposts to Gannabos quiver tree forest just outside Nieuwoudtville, the little town up on the plateau above Vanrhynsdorp in the heart of the Hantam Karoo.

Don’t miss out on the nearby waterfall and Nieuwoudtville’s bulb nursery !

Cradock’s Market street on a Karoo morning

Lined with prettily restored and painted Victorian Karoo ‘huisies’ (houses), including the Victoria Manor Hotel and Olive Schreiner Museum (just around the corner).

The Cradock Market Street Precinct is particularly pretty in the right light.

Hondeklipbaai at high tide

Described as a ‘rough and ready fishing village’, Hondeklipbaai is a diamond in the rough, quite literally (it’s on the Diamond Coast where most of the sand and sea has been combed for diamonds).

Watch the old jetty at high tide and marvel at how the building remains standing.

The Compassberg from Nieu Bethesda

The Compassberg literally looms over the Karoo village of Nieu Bethesda (where you’ll also find Helen Martin’s Owl House and a cheesery and brewery worth visiting). 

From the top of the mountain you can see forever. If you don’t fancy a walk, the road into town gives you fine views of the mountain.

Graaff-Reinet’s Groot Kerk when the sky is blue

Just up the road from Nieu Bethesda is the historical town of Graaff-Reinet that lies within a nature reserve.

You can’t miss the beautiful Dutch Reformed Church on the corner of Caledon and Church streets.

SKA’s Square Kilometre Array

Its beauty is debatable.

But regardless of whether or not you like how it looks, this mega-science project – a square kilometre’s worth of radio telescopes – just outside Carnarvon.

I’s is drawing visitors from all around the world.

The open road, anywhere, everywhere in the Karoo

If there’s one thing you’ll get your fill of in the Karoo, it’s the open road.

Whether it’s tar or dirt there is plenty of it. And that feeling of ‘road trip’ is written all over it.

The twisted and buckled mountains of the Karoo’s passes

The Swartberg Pass, Seweweekspoort and Meiringspoort have in common the crumpled Cape Fold Mountains that divide the Groot Karoo from the Klein Karoo.

It’s a long line of peaks that were once apparently part of the seafloor (we’re talking millions of years ago). Explore these passes to get the full measure of its rugged beauty.

Klaarstroom at sunrise

The little town on the edge of Meiringspoort is often overlooked, swept through on the way somewhere else.

It describes itself as ‘an authentic Victorian, working farm village and if you want to experience ‘downtime’, here’s as good a place as any.

The night skies of Sutherland

It’s got something to do with the little town’s height above sea level and the weather – generally cloudless – that makes Sutherland a prime place to stargaze – from here the milky way is very milky.

You’ll even see the odd gas cloud if you gaze through a telescope at Sterland or SKA.

The dolerite pillars of the Valley of Desolation

This is a particularly popular spot at sunset, and easy to get to and from, if you stay in Graaff-Reinet.

The unusually stacked dolerite pillars stand sentry over the valley, as they have for millenia.

Explore More

• Plan your trip through the Karoo
• 10 Top natural attractions in the Karoo
• Find other places to stay in the Karoo

Further Reading...

Oldest Pubs In South Africa

Hiking Mossel Bay

I Wanna Go Camping! The Best sites for camping in Gauteng & the North West

Big 5 malaria free game reserves in south africa, best places to stay in the drakensberg, south africa’s epic dragonback mountains, sa-venues.com.

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Karoo Road Trip

Expect on your itinerary.

Best months to drive

Road trip costs.

How much does it cost to go on a Karoo Road Trip in Republic of South Africa?

Karoo Road Trip Itinerary

Start kimberley.

• Fast - The infrastructure and traffic allow an average speed of >80 km/h (or 50 mi/h) on this stage. This means a speedy and smooth ride for you without any unplanned delays.
• Modest - The infrastructure and traffic allow an average speed of >50 km/h (or 30 mi/h) on this stage. This means a reasonably smooth ride for you without unplanned delays.
• Slow - The infrastructure and traffic allow an average speed of well below 50 km/h (or 30 mi/h) on this leg. This means a slow ride for you. Unplanned delays are to be expected at any time.
• KIM - Kimberley Airport

1 Kimberley - Victoria West

2 victoria west - beaufort west,   beaufort west, karoo road trip at a glance.

• Start : Kimberley
• End : Beaufort West
• Distance : 556 km
• Stay : 2 days
• Getting there : Kimberley Airport (KIM)
• When to drive : April, May, June, July, August, September, October
• More info : More info you can find in the "Itinerary" section at each stage.

Facts for safer driving in Republic of South Africa

Recommended trips.

Klein Karoo Itinerary: The Best 3-Day Adventure

There’s no doubt about it:

The greatest way to experience any country, especially the striking South Africa , is by taking a road trip.

And a journey through the Klein Karoo region, exploring the highs and lows of the majestic Swartberg Mountains, driving through the cute little towns with enthralling architecture, meeting the friendly people living there, and devouring delectable wines and steaks will make your vacation truly unforgettable.

But wait – you don’t know what the Karoo is?

It is the South African semi-desert . The Swartberg Mountain Range divides it into two regions, the Great Karoo and the Little Karoo .

The Great Karoo stretches over the provinces of the Eastern, Northern, and Western Cape on more than 400,000 km 2 . That’s approximately the size of California and larger than the area of Germany!

The Klein Karoo (Little Karoo) is situated between majestic mountains. To the south are the Outeniqua Mountains and the Swartberg Mountain Range is to the north. It also borders the famous Garden Route in the Western Cape.

So what is a semi-desert then?

The rain, which falls in the semi-desert, is a bit more than in the desert, 50 – 250 mm/m 2 per year. The air is arid and the temperature amplitudes are extreme.

Red clay soil covers the ground and every blow of the wind shoots clouds of red dust into the air during the dry season.

The plants, that cover the Klein Karoo, are low bush and grass. Plants, such as aloes, euphorbias, stapelias, and desert ephemerals, grow half a meter or more apart. The vegetation is sufficient to support vast herds.

In spring, when a few drops of rain eventually fall in the semi-desert, all the flowers and bushes blossom. For a brief period, the Klein Karoo is covered with a carpet of amazing, mesmerizing, beautiful thousands upon thousands of blooms.

Start Your Perfect Road Trip Through the Klein Karoo from Cape Town

The best – and tested by yours truly – itinerary for a perfect adventure in the Klein Karoo starts in Cape Town and finishes at the Garden Route . Most people visit South Africa to explore exactly these two regions anyway. If your time allows it, find your own unique adventure and drive through the Klein Karoo as well.

The journey from Cape Town to Oudtshoorn, the largest town in the semi-desert, will take you parallel to the southern coastline, but you will be separated from the sea by the Outeniqua Mountain range.

Shortly after you leave Cape Town, you’ll pass by Paarl. From the highway, look out the window to see the only language monument in the world. The longest of its spires rises up 57 m (187 ft) high.

Eleven official languages are spoken in South Africa. The Language Monument in Paarl commemorates the Afrikaans language, which was written down in the city. It is a mixture of Dutch, English, German, French, and African languages with its own grammar rules.

After you leave the highway, you’ll follow Route 62, known as the Wine Route. You will pass by numerous vineyards and orchards. Stop for a wine tasting along the way and enjoy the world-renowned South African wines. The family-friendly wine farms are a great choice.

My personal recommendation : try the chocolate pairing with specially crafted hand-made chocolates at Van Loveren Vineyards for an orgasmic experience.

Back on Route 62, you’ll pass by herds of ostriches and Karoo sheep. Make a stop for a lunch break and don’t miss to order a Karoo lamb dish . South Africans consider it the tastiest breed of lamb. But don’t just take their word for it and test it yourself!

Tip : check what other South African food classics you should try in the Klein Karoo.

Continue on Route 62 and deeper into the Klein Karoo. Stop at Ronnie’s Sex Shop in the middle of nowhere and leave a piece of underwear writing on the walls or on the ceiling.

Check into your accommodation in or around Oudtshoorn . Spend the night at one of the ostrich farms or at a charming guesthouse.

Time needed : depending on the number of stops and the length of the breaks you make, plan to be on the road for at least seven hours or, in other words, a whole day of epic road-tripping.

Greet the New Day in The Semi-desert with the Unpredictable Meerkats

There are no Big Five safaris in the Klein Karoo but here is one of the few places in South Africa where you can say “G ood morning! ” to one of the Shy Five, the meerkats . They are the only African animals of the group, which are active during the day.

Wake up hours before sunrise. I know, I hate getting up early too, but it is all worth it. Go to the meeting point. Have a cup of coffee while listening to the guides’ instructions . Cross your fingers that the meerkats (or suricates ) will be in a good mood this morning and will not keep you waiting for hours.

The little creatures’ peculiar habits are still not fully studied.

They might come out a moment after you’ve set your folding chair on the ground, or they might keep you waiting for hours. They might come out all at once, only to disappear in the distance a few moments later, leaving you with one blurry shot and a lot of disappointment.

But if you are as lucky as we were, you’ll only wait for a couple of minutes, just long enough for the guide to give you the instructions of how to behave in the presence of meerkats.

Then the little rodents will come out and gaze at the sun, enjoy the incredible pink colour of the first daylight, and completely ignore you. Afterwards, they’ll play with their mates long enough for you to take hundreds of pictures and even come within 2 m (6.5 ft) of your group!

Time needed : between two and six hours depending on the meerkats’ mood.

Tip : if you want to experience more stunning wildlife, check out these top African safari destinations .

Visit the Staggering Cango Caves, the Biggest Cave System in Africa

The Cango Caves at the foot of the Swartberg Mountain Range are the third most visited tourist attraction in South Africa (number one is the Kruger National Park and number two is the Table Mountain ).

The caves are aged at about 20 million years . They comprise the biggest cave system in Africa. It consists of four caves but visitors can only enter the first one, called Cango I.

The Heritage Tour takes you through six out of all twenty-six chambers and lasts about an hour. Visitors, who take the Adventure Tour , see the same area but then their experience continues through further passages for another 30 min.

In the information center of the Cango Caves, you can see what tunnels and holes you’ll have to crawl through if you wish to join the Adventure Tour. Hint: the lowest passage is only 15 cm (6 in) high!

You can’t help but wonder how a limestone cave system formed under a semi-desert area. Of course, 20 million years ago this wasn’t a dry area but rather the bottom of the ocean. There’s no more water in the cave or in the area. Since it rarely rains, the Cango Caves are dry and growing at an extremely slow pace.

Still, nature had enough time to sculpt impressive stalactites and stalagmites and even connect some of those into magnificent columns, rising tens of meters high. It also formed striking flowstones and drapes which will leave you gazing in awe.

The first explorers found out that the Cango Caves were inhabited during the Stone Ages. Bushmen lived in the entrance hall. They never ventured deeper than a few meters inwards because they believed the spirits of their dead lived inside the cave and they didn’t want to disturb them.

Time needed : two to three hours.

Ride an Ostrich and Learn About the Most Lucrative Industry in the Klein Karoo

The largest town in the Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn, is known as the Ostrich Capital of the World .

The ostriches from the Little Karoo are believed to be the prettiest members of their species. In the 1860s, a farmer successfully started domesticating, breeding, and hatching ostriches’ eggs in incubators without decreasing the beauty and quality of the feathers.

The feather industry boomed and ostrich farmers quickly became tremendously wealthy.

Nowadays, a visit to an ostrich farm is a must in the Klein Karoo.

Cuddle with the cute little ostrich chicks, covered in weirdly prickly feathers. Feed the always-hungry adult ostriches. Learn what type of ostrich feathers are used in the production of which souvenirs .

Try to stand on an ostrich egg. Don’t worry, you won’t break it. The 2 mm (0.08 in) thick shell is extremely strong and will hold your weight. Then ride on an ostrich, or watch the professionals do it.

Time needed : about two hours.

Stroll the Streets of Oudtshoorn, the Ostrich Capital of the World

In the 1880s, the Klein Karoo, and especially the town of Oudtshoorn, became the center of the booming ostrich feather industry.

The wealthy farmers soon became known as Feather Millionaires . They built their grand Feather Palaces in Art Nouveau, Victorian, and Neo-Renaissance Revival styles using red rocks and sandstone.

Today, visitors can still admire the imposing mansions in Oudtshoorn. Stroll along Baron van Rheede Street to view some of the palaces. Don’t miss a visit to the C.P Nel Museum , showing a glimpse into the life of the Klein Karoo and especially the lifestyle of the people involved in the ostrich industry in its early days.

Many of the old houses were turned into charming guesthouses with cozy gardens and unique rooms or restaurants offering an exquisite gourmet experience. Don’t leave Oudtshoorn without devouring an assortment of scrumptious ostrich specialties.

Tip : if you travel to the lovely town at the end of March, you can also visit the  Klein Karoo National Arts Festival , one of the best festivals in South Africa. 

Time needed : two to four hours.

Drive Through the Stupendous Swartberg Pass for the Most Breathtaking Views

The Swartberg Mountain Range separates the Great Karoo from the Little Karoo. Thomas Bain built the pass through the mountains in the 1880s using convicts’ labor.

The main reason to build the Swartberg Pass was the need to provide a road connection between the town of Prince Albert in the Great Karoo and Oudtshoorn in the Klein Karoo, and from there to George on the Garden Route by the ocean.

The stunning views on each turn, the spectacular mountaintops on both sides of the road, and the winding gravel road make crossing the Swartberg Pass an incredible adventure even nowadays.

The pass closes several times a year due to poor weather conditions. The unpaved road can be treacherously slippery during rain. Snowfalls are not rare in winter.

Still, if you are lucky enough to cross it once, mark my word that it’s so bewildering, that you’ll want to drive it backward immediately just to get another chance to admire the awe-inspiring, jaw-dropping, magnificent views.

Time needed : between two and four hours depending on the number of stops, you make to photograph your stunning surroundings.

Leave the Klein Karoo with a Promise to Come Back and a New Adventure Ahead

A great way to finish your perfect adventure in the Klein Karoo is driving through the Outeniqua Pass to reach the Garden Route. In its heart lies Knysna , which you should definitely explore next.

Tip : if you’re feeling fit for the challenge, why not cycle through the Klein Karoo instead of driving? Check out this itinerary through Tradow Pass, Barrydale , the Little Karoo , and the Seven Passes Road for ideas.

You will notice that the moment you reach the mountain, the weather, the vegetation, and the views will change suddenly and dramatically.

The semi-desert will disappear and the cooler, more humid air of the Garden Route will fill your lungs. Green tall trees will take the place of the low shrubs, and the ostrich and sheep herds along the road will disappear.

But an adventure through the South African semi-desert is an experience, which you can’t easily forget.

The delectable wines and the tender Karoo lamb on Route 62, the presence of ostriches everywhere you turn, the morning with the unpredictable little meerkats, the enormous chambers of the Cango Caves, the charming houses of Oudtshoorn, and the stunning views along the road through the Swartberg Pass will remain in your memories forever.

Do yourself a favor and promise to come back for another great adventure in the Little Karoo. And if you still haven’t visited, start packing your bags and booking your flight, because this surely is one of the best road trips you can ever take.

You can book this amazing road trip or any tailor-made tour through South Africa with Gecko Tours . We had a great time with them and I’m sure you will too!

After spending months living in Spain and the USA, years in Germany, and decades in Bulgaria, I set up on a mission to find the most epic road trips, the best beaches, and the most authentic local experiences for your next adventure.

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5 day Karoo Road Trip

Book this tour Now!  

Leave Cape Town on the Trans Karoo Express train @12h30PM for Matjiesfontein, historic Victorian village and “The Jewel Of The Karoo”. Arrive Matjiesfontein @17h50PM. After checking in you can walk in the beautiful gardens with a fountain and a small chapel. Dinner in the gracious Victorian dinning room and than we relax and watch the famous clear Karoo skies.

Overnight : Milner Hotel, Matjiesfontein

After breakfast we leave by air-conditioned transport to the village of Prince Albert, Gateway to Swartberg Mountains. Arrive Prince Albert around 13h00PM.

After lunch we attend an exciting talk by Dr Judy Maquire, paleontologists. Besides working with fossils, Judy has worked with !Xo Bushmen and  made a study of their survival and their use of food plants. Bushmen were the earliest inhabitants of the area and remains of this culture are still to be found in the district.

We end the day by watching a film that has won many International rewards “The Great Dance – a hunters story”. This is what the authors of the film say…”through the viewfinder of the camera we realize that we were capturing a moment of the connection between people, animals and death, something timeless and powerful, something bigger than all of us.”

Overnight : Guest House in Prince Albert

Sunrise walk to the show grounds @ 05h30AM to watch horses in silent training. After breakfast we leave for Gamkaskloof, a hidden valley in the heart of Swartberg Mountain Range – a paradise called Die Hel. On arrival we have lunch at Annetjie Joubert, a descendant of the original community. Enjoy a braai in the evening.

Overnight :

Restored self-catering farmhouses Solar panels provide hot water and gas bottles run fridges and stoves. All provisions are supplied except for alcoholic beverages.

Gamkaskloof valley We walk, relax, listen to nature, reflect on the wilderness around and maybe learn about our place in the Universe.

Overnight : Restored self-catering farmhouses

Get ready to leave after breakfast back to Prince Albert and civilization. After lunch we are taken to airstrip to board our 60-minute charter flight to Cape Town International Airport. ***END OF ROAD TRIP***

Cost includes & excludes

• all provisions for meals in Gamkaskloof valley
• 2 meals [lunches in Prince Albert] and all liquid refreshments & alcoholic beverages.

Matador Original Series

Roadtripping South Africa’s Incredible Klein Karoo Desert

S outh Africa has no shortage of scenic drives and road trip options to explore — many of which include astounding coastal roads and dozens of mountain passes built by some of the world’s most revered engineers more than 100 years ago.

One of the best of these regions is the country’s semi-arid Klein Karoo. The sparse, isolated area is often overlooked by travelers who are more eager to explore the country’s better-marketed destinations. As beautiful as the deserts of the Klein (which is Afrikaans for small) Karoo are, they’re not without some adversity — which is, for many, the exact reason to explore them.

I experienced this firsthand on a road trip through the region.

After three days of my South African road trip on the rutted gravel backroads of the desert in an ill-suited sedan, the sound of heavy thuds caused by stray rocks on my car’s chassis was something I’d become used to. Still, the noise caused a full-body cringe, a clench of the jaw, and then a sigh of relief as the car continued as if nothing had happened.

When the same thing occurred several hundred kilometers into the third day, on a route with no cell phone signal where I passed just two other vehicles, I prepared for much the same. But this time the car didn’t keep cruising — instead, it stuttered, spluttered, and then cut out altogether. It drifted awkwardly to a halt in the middle of the road. As the dust settled around me, I turned off the music and was enveloped by total desert silence and searing 100-degree heat.

I popped the hood and looked aimlessly into the sweltering engine before I retrieved my cell phone from my car and held it up for a signal. And there, miraculously, were two bars — the first of the day. It was enough to summon some help from a tow truck company that would send help as soon as they could, “but definitely within three hours.”

I had few options but to wait it out as the heat climbed and my water levels went down. So I reclined my seat, made use of an ice brick for personal temperature control, and cracked open a beer that I’d found languishing in the trunk. Instead of feeling anxious or even annoyed, for the most part I reflected on the freedom and joy that comes with a solo, self-sufficient adventure into pretty much the middle of nowhere during a global pandemic.

Photo: Andrew Thompson

South Africa’s Klein Karoo is one of the numerous deserts and semi-deserts in the country. It’s located in a 200-mile-long valley a few hours east of Cape Town between the towns of Montagu and Uniondale, and is almost entirely fringed by soaring mountains.

The region has several famous small towns, many of which sprung up in the mid-1800s as wandering European settlers moved out from the Cape looking for fresh lands to exploit. It’s quiet at the best of times, as most tourists opt for Route 62 or the famous Garden Route. Yet several months into the pandemic, many of Klein Karoo’s roads haven’t seen an idle traveler like myself in months.

There are few better places, breakdowns notwithstanding, for a South African road trip at a time like this. It’s a reminder that daily isolation has been a reality long before the pandemic took hold. Here, long, winding, underdriven roads and epic mountain passes connect an intriguing network of small towns that most South Africans haven’t even heard of. These charming towns often have at least one supermarket, and in some cases a few quirky restaurants, along with the odd farmhouse, historical cottage, or converted barn for accommodation.

I spent the first few nights in a converted barn on the outskirts of a town called Ladismith, a farming town established in 1852. Many old farms in the region have turned buildings like these into overnight accommodations to tap into the growing tourism market. The back porch served as the perfect location to light a fire, relax with a book, and watch the sky darken — and then burst to life with stars — all in near-absolute silence.

Above the converted barn are small hills, many of which appear to have seen little human or livestock traffic for decades. Sagging barbed wire fences demarcate old farms, and electrical pylons and a few rusted cans are the only signs of modern life. When you reach the summit of the larger hills, you can spot the small enclaves of houses and farmsteads set beneath the towering Klein Swartberg mountains.

During my stay, a pair of horses picked through short grass in a field on the outskirts of Ladismith in the morning sunlight. In the background sits Towerkop, a famous 7,000-foot peak that’s one of the highest in the Klein Swartberg range. Local folklore (of questionable origin) suggests that the slit was made by a witch who either flew into or struck the peak in anger. For keen hikers, it represents an accessible full-day challenge from the town.

North of Ladismith is one of South Africa’s most remarkable gravel roads: Seweweekspoort, which means Seven Weeks Gateway. The geology along its 11 miles is the principal draw. It rises up and folds back down in otherworldly strata that’s influenced by volcanic eruptions from millions of years ago.

Although there appears to be no consensus on the origin of its name, this only adds to its intrigue. The best, albeit most unlikely, story is that the name is derived from the possibility that it took brandy smugglers seven weeks to get between the towns of Beaufort West and Ladismith via this route before the road was built.

Somewhere on the other side of the mountain, the gravel turned to tar. I stopped to make my morning coffee at a dilapidated roadside picnic table with an unoccupied home and hostile surroundings as my backdrop.

Photo: andrewthompsonsa

A herd of cattle blocked the road as I attempted to make my way between Ladismith and Barrydale, my next stopover point on my road trip.

Long, winding gravel roads like these are common in the Karoo. During the course of the day, I didn’t pass a single other vehicle driving on these roads, and conveniences like cell phone signal and filling stations are non-existent. It was shortly after taking this photo that my vehicle hit the ill-fated rock that left me waiting out the hottest hours of the day for a tow truck.

After four hours sitting in my stationary car, a savior arrived in a cloud of dust: a large flatbed tow truck driven by a paunchy man wearing flip-flops and shorts. In a matter of seconds, he latched my car to his truck, activated a winch, and motioned for me to climb into the cab with him. After that, he drove us both to the nearest town of Barrydale.

Barrydale is a fertile haven on the slopes of the Langeberg mountain range, with a creative community and a solitary mechanic who delivered on his promise to repair my car within the day. The town’s ideal location on the touristic Route 62 has paved the way for a few notable restaurants, galleries, attractions, and quirky accommodation options, and although many had temporarily or permanently closed their doors, it was a good destination to whittle away a few more days.

Continuing south through the Langeberg Mountains toward the town of Swellendam is Bontebok National Park. It’s a lush wilderness fed by the more than 200-mile-long Breeriver, pictured here, which eventually flows into the Indian Ocean in the coastal village of Witsand.

There are several small hamlets to choose from in this fertile region beneath the Riviersonderend Mountains, but another called McGregor is arguably one of the quirkiest and most charming. Between a burgeoning collection of modern holiday homes used as an escape from nearby Cape Town are charming accommodations like this historical cottage, where I spent three days relishing its tranquillity.

McGregor has successfully shrugged off its conservative small-town history. In normal times, it’s home to a thriving foodie scene, a poetry festival, and a live music venue that attracts some of the country’s top talent. But the town, which was founded in 1861, like so many in the country, was initially built up around its Dutch Reformed Church — which is still meticulously maintained on the village’s Voortrekker Street.

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Karoo Road Trip from Cape Town to Kimberley

Words and Pix by Chris Marais

I was sitting in a warm winter sun-spot in Adderley Street, Cradock, earlier this year, waiting for my wife Jules to finish up her business at the post office and dreaming of a Karoo road trip.

Casting about in the bakkie for something to read, I picked up our tatty copy of the Caltex South African Road Atlas and paged through, mesmerised by the possibilities offered along the Deep Karoo route between the Mother City and the Diamond City.

Hmm. I realised we had done this epic ride over the past decade of our Karoo life, only not in one fell swoop. So I began to thread it all together, to work out the logistics of actually covering the 1 200-odd kilometre trip in one heavenly journey of dust and diesel and fine bluegrass tunes – if I ever get around to fixing the in-bakkie music system, that is.

Dawn in Simon’s Town

We would begin at dawn with a cup of coffee on the stoep of our favourite Simon’s Town hideaway, where we normally come to complete the last bits of a book with the layout team.

It’s a Karoostyle self-cater called Cotton’s Cottages and it overlooks the Simon’s Town Harbour, the lights of Kalk Bay and the delights of the Olympia Café in the distance.

Jules sends last e-mails while I pack the vehicle and then we’re out into the murderous flow of Cape Town traffic, ears pinned back and heading for the N1. Next stop Matjiesfontein.

Matjiesfontein O Matjiesfontein

Round about Touws River, we begin to breathe the good Karoo air. This is just what consumptive Victorians paid fortunes to suck into their sooty lungs.

Less than 60km later, the late afternoon sun glints on the plinth below the grave of Major General Andrew Wauchope, ill-fated leader of the Highland Brigade that took on the Boers at Magersfontein on the 10 th of December, 1899.

James Logan, owner of Matjiesfontein village just down the road, had contacted General Wauchope’s widow after the battle and offered to bury her husband near his enterprising little railway settlement.

Possibly confusing Magersfontein with Matjiesfontein, she accepted his offer. That’s why this British soldier lies so far away from his last battlefield. But wait, we’re gonna get there.

As always, we drive on to Matjiesfontein, climb on a Red London Bus and let impresario Johnny Theunissen take us away on a five-minute (but hilarious) tour of his neighbourhood.

The next morning, being Sunday, we join Johnny at his church over the railroad tracks and watch him preach in his passionate style. There’s always something to experience at the beloved Matjiesfontein.

Way of the Ox Wagon

It is at this point, however, that the classic traveller’s routes split up. You can continue on the N1 and up to Beaufort West. Later, you take the N12 and meet us at Victoria West, where our story continues.

This is, loosely, the way many prospectors, chancers, fortune-hunters, chandlers, grocers and remittance types travelled up to the new diamond fields around Hopetown and then later Kimberley in the early 1870s.

Future riches lay in wait for the likes of Barney Barnato, who booked passage on an ox-wagon “to the diamonds” for five pounds. It took the Barnato Party two months to crawl through the Great Karoo along the trail of the first Voortrekkers.

Starry, Starry Sutherland

We, however, are heading directly north from Matjiesfontein over the mountains to the village of Sutherland, skirting the Moordenaar’s (murderer’s) Karoo and settling in for a night of stars, stars and more stars.

The next day we head through the Rooipoort Pass, cutting through dry and dramatic geology en route to Fraserburg.

We are now officially in Tough Guy Country. This is where the hardiest of trekboere once settled, after decades of being kept out of the district by equally determined groups of Bushmen.

Big Foot Was Here

But we are looking further back through time to around 251 million years ago. A guide connected to the Fraserburg Museum takes us out to the nearby Gansfontein Farm to see the clear sign of a Bradysaurus that left its imprint tracks here on a smooth rock surface, once a muddy waterway.

To be honest with you, we regularly travel very far to see places like this – they are worth every drop of diesel. Not only do we have here one of the great ancient footprints, but also traces of pre-historic prawns, tok-tokkies from yesteryear, fish and dassie-like diictodons. Preserved in ancient mud on a farm in the middle of the Karoo.

Tumbleweeds, Corbels and Castles

The 76km between Fraserburg and Loxton is broken up by tumbleweeds and corbelled houses in the distance. Some of these weird dwellings are now very popular overnight stays.

When people mention Karoo towns they love, Loxton so often floats to the top. It has been the backdrop, even the central character in movies. Writer Deon Meyer has a place there and we once watched the veld-muti guru Antoinette Pienaar spellbinding an audience with her singing voice in the local church hall.

Loxton has magic. It’s in the building styles, it’s in the shady lanes, the faces of the people and the occasional eccentricities that intrigue us travellers so. We buy cheese from one lot of Wiese family members, we drive out to look at another Wiese-owned oddity (the only castle in the Karoo) and we have a go at a Bushman rock-gong on the farm of one Henk Cloete.

The etchings and the gongs we find along the way, especially up near Kimberley, are a constant reminder of the First Ones who lived, hunted and played in this arid vastness.

Legendary Victoria West

Now we drive the 70km to Victoria West, epicentre of the Great Karoo. If you’ve never been here before, you’re going to love the timeless feel of its streets and its many legends.

The year 1871 had a dual effect on Victoria West. That was when the floodgate of north-bound diamond wayfarers opened, and the 12-year-old settlement (founded in 1859) became a commercial centre, practically overnight.

You’d be amazed to find out that many of these hopeful souls with diamond fever actually arrived in the dusty streets of Victoria West on foot. Most, however, came up on the post coaches, and Victoria West was their halfway spot.

That same year saw a real flood as well, when a classic Karoo storm descended, gorging every gulley, stream, river and dam in the area. What happened to the town was on the same horror-scale as the events that occurred in Laingsburg just over a century later.

History for All Ages

We learn all this and more at the Victoria West Museum, where we also pay our respects to their resident Bradysaurus and various fish fossils.

After a brief sojourn at a rail-side blockhouse outside town, we finally begin to connect the travel dots on this one. This is a trip for those who love fossil history, big landscapes, the story of the Anglo-Boer War, First People veld art, red wine and lamb chops around an evening braai, mountain passes, remote farm stays, village life and all the little roadside eccentricities that real travellers adore.

It’s not for anyone in a hurry, that’s for sure.

Courtyard Dining

On, on, up the N12 to Britstown, just more than 100km to the north. After a lunch in the rather charming courtyard of the Trans-Karoo Lodge, we continue.

But look, here’s the Kambro Padstal. Let’s stop and shop for a second. There is fresh biltong, there are crafts for sale but the real find for us is the World’s Best Nougat.

I normally avoid the stuff like the plague, because of the ensuing battle between its toffee stickiness and my ageing chompers. But Theresa’s Pecan & Cranberry Handmade Nougat from Boskop Farm up in remote Brandvlei is pure crumbly magic in a wrapper.

One day, Jules and I will work out an entire road trip up to faraway Brandvlei just to find Theresa and, obviously, buy up all her nougat. It’s the kind of thing we do.

Mokala Magic

Strydenburg is in our rear-view mirror. Hopetown, where the first diamond was discovered, soon joins Strydenburg. We arrive at Mokala National Park just in time for the evening game drive, settle in with cameras on the furthest back seat and tune in to the world of fabulous rare ungulates like tsessebe, sable and roan antelope.

The following day, before our grand entrance into Kimberley, we spend some sobering moments at the Magersfontein Battle Site where General Wauchope (remember Matjiesfontein cemetery at the start of our odyssey?) met his end.

Big Dreamer

And finally we’re in the Diamond City, at the lip of the iconic Big Hole. I’m just about to mentally slope off and have a couple of cold ones at the legendary Star of the West Hotel bar when Jules raps sharply on the bakkie window and breaks my reverie and I’m jerked right back into downtown Cradock.

“What’s that smile on your face?” she wants to know.

“We’ve just been on a helluva trip. Climb in and I’ll tell you all about it…”

Travel Information Contacts

Cotton’s Cottages in Simon’s Town : www.cottonscottages.com , email [email protected] or call 073 255 8111.

Matjiesfontein : www.matjiesfontein.com , email [email protected] or call 023 561 3011.

Sutherland : www.discoversutherland.co.za or email [email protected] .

Fraserburg Museum Guide : Marthinus Kruger 084 873 0098 or Municipality 023 741 1012.

Loxton : www.loxton.org.za , email [email protected] or call the Municipality on 053 381 3102.

Victoria West: www.victoriawest.co.za , email [email protected] or call 083 788 0802.

Britstown and Transkaroo Country Lodge : www.transkaroocountrylodge.co.za , email [email protected] or call 053 672 0027.

Kambro Padstal : www.kambroaccom.co.za , call 053 672 0408 or 083 305 6668.

Mokala National Park : www.sanparks.org , email [email protected] or call 053 204 8000.

Kimberley tourism : www.kimberleytourism.co.za or www.thebighole.co.za . Email [email protected] or call 053 839 4600.

• Or for something quite different, try this trip as outlined and then load your vehicle onto a train and do the Trans-Karoo from Kimberley to Cape Town . For more information, visit southafricanrailways.co.za .

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7 thoughts on “ Karoo Road Trip from Cape Town to Kimberley ”

It’s really awesome to read this. I would love to travel this road but of course at the right time of the year. Cannot wait for that moment.

Enjoyed the adventure. Thank you.

Thaks Chris & Julienne. Due to a (hopefully slight) dip in my health, this will have to be closest to me and Lenie seeing this first hand in the near future. But your report has re-awakened the wanderlust. Cheers.

All the best, Pieter. Here’s to a good recovery and, one day, a great road trip! Cheers, Chris – Karoo Space

Really enjoyable I’ve travel it via Beaufort West been in Britsown, been in Barkley West as well really awesome place the Northern Cape visit the Big hole had supper at the Protea Hotel at the Big hole. Really really enjoyed my Cape Town to Kimberley trip was for business the second time now in a space of one month but surely I will surely be back this time for holiday. This time I will visit all the towns on my way to Kimberley.

Traditionally and unfortunately so many travellers have crossed or “driven through” the Karoo’s great diverse expanses en route to a destination elsewhere, completely overlooking the essential meaning of what a journey is and should be all about. Taking one’s senses on a sojourn of wanderment AND wonderment is magic for the soul. This beautifully told story more than confirms the need to connect and entertain oneself to all things Karoo, every morsel about it.

Good. Thank you, dankie, groete daar.

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An epic route over two karoo passes.

The Tankwa Karoo is full of surprises. On every visit, I discover something new. Most recently, with some time to test drive Toyota’s new Fortuner 2.8 GD-6 4×4 Automatic, I headed for the hills on a day loop from Ceres to Die Mond campsite to drive two lesser-known gravel passes that have been on my radar for years.

Karoo-road cruising in the new Toyota Fortuner

Ouberg Pass

A short drive up the R46 from Ceres got me onto the long gravel R355 north, notorious in this part of the Karoo for its pitiless appetite for tyres. I’d been lucky in the past. This time, just outside Tankwa Padstal, my luck ran out. But, plugged and pumped with the help of padstal owner Hein Lange, I was back on the undulating gravel, bounding north and then north-west at the sign for Tankwa Karoo National Park, along the southern bank of the bone-dry Tankwa River, then over it and onto Ouberg Pass. One of the first-ever routes up the Roggeveld plateau, this gorgeous gravel road doubles back on itself, climbing ever higher with each view back over the gnarled Karoo better than the last.

The turnoff to Sutherland at the top of Ouberg Pass

Getting the right pressure back in the plugged tyre; plenty of boot space in the Fortuner

Gannaga Pass

With the mercury nudging 36 degrees, it was windows up and climate control on as I crested the plateau, took a left at Twee Riviere Farm and set my sights on Middelpos. Passing farms with bleating sheep that sound like humans imitating sheep, the road was a mix of hard-pack, gravel and soft-but-shallow sand beds. After Middelpos the sun began its slow roll towards the horizon and I reached the hot crust of Gannaga Pass. Shorter than Ouberg, this little gem of tight switchbacks and severe edges pulled me back down, steeply, into the heart of Tankwa. At the foot of the pass, I pointed the Fortuner south and zigzagged through the Tankwa Karoo National Park passing pronking springboks and back briefly onto the R355, then west to Die Mond campsite. There, I had just enough time to cool off in the lake, throw a few choppies on the flames and relive the best bends before the night grew cold, the moon full and my head sleepy.

Two passes, one awesome ride

Descending Gannaga Pass

Tip: While neither of these passes is strictly 4×4 (a high-clearance vehicle will get you through), I found the Fortuner’s DAC (Downhill Assist Control) in 4H gave me the perfect speed to descend Gannaga without having to drag the brake too much – more control, better safety.

Toyota Fortuner 2.8 GD-6 4×4 Automatic Engine 4-cylinder turbo diesel Gearbox 6-speed automatic Seats 7 Fuel tank 80l Consumption 7,8l/100km (claimed combined) Price R617 900 (includes 3-year/100 000km warranty and 5-year/90 000km service plan)

Travel Planner

Need to know.

It’s a 540km round trip from Ceres, so make sure you have enough diesel. You won’t get any en route. Access through Tankwa Karoo National Park is currently free if you’re not staying over, but call ahead in case things change. 0273411927, sanparks.org

Tankwa Padstal

Loer in at Tankwa Padstal. The faces are friendly, the colas cold, and you might even get the recipe for Hein’s beetroot and cacao shooter, said to knock you for six. [email protected]

The campsite at Die Mond

Die Mond is a superb, well-shaded campsite set on a small lake that seeps out from the Doring River. Camping is R70 per person. Cash only. 0233170668

The Toyota Fortuner 2.8 GD-6 4×4 Automatic

Overall impressions

I’ve always loved the utilitarian Hilux, and the Toyota Fortuner 2.8 GD-6 4×4 Automatic still gives you the feel of that powerhouse, albeit inside a plusher cockpit with better road manners. The transmission is smoother than previous models and while I prefer using the manual transmission in most off-road situations, the response time and power delivery of the automatic box in 4H and 4L was sufficient.

I did encounter some turbo lag and, on occasion, felt the transmission could be a bit sharper, but it’s a monster on sand and an adept climber over loose terrain. The improved suspension does a top job of dealing with bigger bumps and undulations but I found the long wheelbase made it a little skittish over corrugations at higher speeds. A simple solution, of course, was to take it easy on those Karoo gravel roads. Corrugations aside, there are other dangers and if you’re rushing in that part of the country, then you’re doing it wrong. All in all, the Toyota Fortuner 2.8 GD-6 4×4 Automatic is still a great mix of SUV beauty and off-road beast, evident in its continued popularity with the SA market.

Bright afternoons in a hot Karoo

What’s the deal with Eco Mode?

With a discussion of the Toyota Fortuner’s Eco Mode missing from many car reviews, I thought I’d take a moment to address it here. Fuel economy and large-volume, big-torque engines have long since been at odds (for obvious reasons: more power generally means more fuel), but I’m a big fan of Toyota’s move to consolidate those two concepts with its Eco Mode setting. On the new Fortuner 2.8 GD–6 4×4 Automatic, that’s executed by less aggressive fuel mapping, a restriction on overall power (75% at full use) as well as a handful of other mods.

Not everyone is a fan, with some lamenting the longer throttle response times and a generally claiming that it’s not all that economical unless you drive it with a conscious effort to reduce fuel. And that’s precisely why I love it. You need to drive economically for the Eco Mode to make sense. Instead of flooring it at the traffic lights, I found myself easing onto the throttle, maintaining decent cruising speeds and being less erratic with the controls because I was looking further ahead to anticipate traffic conditions.

Initially that was to keep the eco bars (displayed beneath the clocks) down, but it quickly turned into an exercise in creating a smoother drive for myself and passengers. Eventually that sort of pre-emptive driving in urban areas felt normal (and easy) and the reward was much-improved consumption figures and, over the longterm, will result in reduced wear and tear on brakes and transmission. It’s obvious in retrospect: abusing the gas pedal isn’t going to save you fuel, regardless of what mode you drive any vehicle in. To take economy seriously, take your input seriously. That’s where I found Eco Mode plays along perfectly and profits duly. And, when I needed power, it was easy enough to shift to ‘Power Mode’ and get myself out of any perceived trouble. I don’t expect everyone to agree with that, just to consider it.

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