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Specifications

A scientifically substantiated examination, which should be taken with a punch of humour..

If a plant makes it to the National Coat of Arms of Namibia it must be a very important and a very beautiful one. Far from it: no garden lover, nature friend nor house owner will put a plant like the Welwitschia into his home ground. A plant that looks like it has just been run over by a dozen 4x4s. So what is it about this plant whose most famous specimen about 50 km out of Swakopmund attracts hundreds of visitors annually? 

At least the oryx antelopes, rhinos, zebras and other plant eaters won’t ask this question, as they like it so much – they could just eat it up.

It’s also not rarity, as the Welwitschia occurs in an area of the Namib Desert that stretches over 1200 km from southern Angola to the mouth of the Kuiseb River. It does not grow directly at the coast, but keeps its distance to it, having its most dense occurrence about 50 to 60 km away from the Atlantic.

Luckily, apart from a dense network of roots close to the ground surface with a diameter of up to 30 metres the Welwitschia also has a taproot that is able to reach groundwater provided that it stands at about 3 metre depth. Most of the water however is taken up by the fine network of roots. Water is provided in the form of dew (fog) as rain is an absolute exception. The assumption that the Welwitschia is able to take up water through the leaves is wrong. The leaves are arranged in such a way that they a well capable of storing water. As the seeds take a while to form sufficient roots to be able to germinate many of them don’t survive. Botanists have found out that only about 0.1% of the seeds produced manage to germinate. Like with humans the Welwitschia has female and male specimens, pollination takes place with the help of insects whereby men and plant again differ considerably.

The "discovery" of the Welwitschia

According to relevant works of reference the plant was „discovered“ by and named after the Austrian botanist Friedrich Welwitsch in Angola in 1859. Of course the local population had known this plant for much longer and had named it accordingly. In Angola it is called n’tumbo (stump), the Herero name it onyanga (desert onion) and in Afrikaans it is called “twee-blaar-kanniedood” (two-leave-can’t-die). The Afrikaaners were clever people as this name describes two characteristic attributes of the Welwitschia: its durability as a desert plant and the fact that it only has two leaves. These two leaves grow continuously, but slowly and pretend, as they are torn with increasing age, to have several leaves or even a whole heap of leaves. With time these leaves frazzle even at their tips as the wind, the hooves of antelopes and other Welwitschia-eaters and some unobserving tourists take their toll. There are exemptions regarding the two leaves. Specimens with two pair of leaves have been found close to the Brandberg. This population with four leaves is estimated to make up 5% of all specimens. Some details of Welwitschia also deviate depending on their habitat in Angola or Namibia so that two sub-species have been identified. It is assumed that the Welwitschia has spread from Namibia up north and has modified itself with time.

Giant Welwitschia and Welwitschia plains

As mentioned a famous specimen is found close to Swakopmund. The location is marked on every tourist map under „interesting things to see“. This specific plant is estimated to be at least 1000 years old some even claim it to be 1500 years old. The exact age is not known. One could establish the age more accurately, as the stem of the plant, which can reach a diameter of 1 metre but is mostly covered by sand, has annual rings. That would mean the end of the Welwitschia though. Many visitors travel along the so-called Welwitschia-Drive, which leads 50 km from Swakopmund to the fenced, old Welwitschia at the end of the Welwitschia plains. On the Welwitschia plains an estimated of 6000 plants can be found. The second name of the Welwitschia namely mirabilis, is derived from Latin meaning „wonderful“. Nevertheless it is not guaranteed that guest will call out “mirabilis” on sight of the plant. One should also not be surprised that many plants have a circle of stones around them. These have the purpose to keep tourists from getting too close and from destroying the fragile network of roots. These circles have been laid down by many responsible tour guides.

The Welwitschia is not only found in the coat of arms of Namibia, but also in the one of Swakopmund and the Kunene Region. Here it is well understandable as the plant occurs in great numbers. Regarding the coat of arms of Namibia it is more difficult to relate to, but it does stand for endurance, survival in hostile environment and for the perseverance against all odds.

Welwitschia Mirabilis - Centuries old desert plant

Relatively young Welwitschia on the Welwitschia Plains about 50 km east of Swakopmund

Scale: depicting a several hundred year-old free standing welwitschia, cones of a female welwitschia with welwitscha bugs, female cones after seed disposal.

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Welwitschia Drive

About The Welwitschia Drive

Meandering among the landscapes of the northern Namib-Naukluft National Park, the Welwitschia Drive is easily accessed from Swakopmund.

Once you have acquired the necessary permits from the Ministry of environment and Tourism in Swakopmund, you can take the C28 and turn off at the Khomas Hochland Road to reach the Park.

Follow the Beacons just after the entrance

• Before long you will reach the first beacon which demarcates a lichen field filled with many different kinds of these fragile plants, some over 100 years old.
• At Beacon 2 you can see specimens of the unique dollar bush and ink bush which can survive for years without rain.
• Next up at Beacon 3 is ‘Baaiweg’ – the site of ox-wagon tracks which carved a distinct trail through the lichen many decades ago.
• Beacon 4 offers the first sighting of the world-renowned moon landscapes, formed millions of years ago, and visible among the valleys of the Swakop River.
• At Beacon 5 you will pass the world’s most extensive lichen fields.
• The trial then continues to Beacon 6 where you can gaze upon even more incredible views of the moon landscapes.
• Beacon 7 reveals remnants of a World War 1 desert camp.
• Turn left at Beacon 8 to make your way to the dolerite dyke at Beacon 9 while admiring the ancient dolerite ridges on top of the surrounding hills.
• The dolerite dyke at Beacon 9 was created by molten lava oozing through cracks in the granite surface many thousands of years ago, and then cooling, leaving dark ridges of hard rock.
• Beacon 10 indicates the lush oasis of the Swakop River Valley where you can picnic among the camelthorn, anaboom and tamarisk trees and enjoy seeing unique parasitic plants and thriving birdlife.
• At last the trail leads to the unique habitat of the Welwitschia Mirabilis , Earth’s most fascinating and longest-lived plant, dotted among the barren expanses of gravel and sand at Beacon 11.
• Reaching the turning point at Beacon 12, you will come across ‘The Big Welwitschia’ which is estimated to be 1500 years old and still growing strong.

Make your way back along the track straight past Beacon 8 and on to the final point of interest at the Von Stryk Mine, where you can view the relics of prospecting which took place here during the 1900s.

Take a day trip back in time on the Welwitschia Trail on your next visit to Swakopmund.

Disclaimer Please Note: The details shared herein were correct at the time of publishing. However, with time some of this information may change. We recommend confirming information with suppliers prior to making final travel arrangements. If you do happen to find an issue with any information we’ve shared here, please feel free to  contact us  so that we can make the relevant changes.

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The Welwitschia Drive

Written by Maartje

Namibia is not only home to impressive wildlife, but also to the most extraordinary plants. The Welwitschia Drive is dedicated to two of them! Which two? The Welwitscha Mirabilis after which the tour is named and the colourful lichen plant, both very vulnerable and rare! The drive is close to Swakopmund and is one of the best trips to make from this coastal town. Plan half a day for this trip, read all about the special flora and be prepared for beautiful nature!

How to get to the Welwitschia Drive

The Welwitschia Drive is close to Swakopmund, so that is the perfect base for this trip. Tours to the drive are offered from Swakopmund by many tour agencies, bit if you have your own wheels – and you’ll probably have those in this country – we advise you to drive the Welwitscha Drive yourself .

The start of the tour is at a 30 minutes drive from Swakopmund. From Swakopmund you’ll follow the B2 towards Windhoek from where you turn to the C28. After a few kilometers, turn left onto the D1991 towards the first stop of the Drive.

Prepare your visit: get a park permit

The start of the Welwitschia Drive is not marked by a large gate where you pay the entrance fee for the park or something similar. The Welwitschia Drive is part of the Namib-Naukluft National Park, of the Namib part to be precise. So instead you’ll buy a permit for the Namib part of this national park in advance at the NWR (Namibia Wildlife Resort).

The office is located in the yellow building at the intersection of the Bismarck Str and Sam Nujoma Avenue. The permit costs you – as in all major national parks – 80 Namibian dollars per person and 10 Namibian dollars for your vehicle. With your permit, you’ll also get a map of the park with the Welwitscha Drive, on which the 13 stops along the route are marked and explained.

We have read that a 4WD is recommended for the Welwitschia Drive, as the road would be in a bad state. We didn’t use the 4WD function on our car during the drive at all. We believe the road is perfectly fine to drive with a good 2WD .

How much time do you need? We recommend to block half a day . The round drive is about 160 kilometers. So make sure you have at least 4 hours, if you want to drive around at ease and want to stop at the 13 points of interests.

The Welwitschia Mirabilis

The Welwitschia Mirabilis is probably the best known plant from Namibia and the star of this Drive. It is nice to read in advance about this special plant, if only to understand why you have to be so careful around it. It is a tough, but also very fragile plant: it can survive in harsh desert conditions and can grow up to 1,000 years old ! This is so unique that this plant is named ‘mirabilis’.

But the plant is also very vulnerable, as it depends on an extensive root system just below the ground. It is unclear how the plant absorbs water, but the leaves probably play a role in this. The plant is mainly found in the coastal areas, where it can be foggy. The condensation is caught by the leaves and then drips on the ground right into the fragile root system . For that reason you see many stone circle around the Welwitschias to indicate that you should not walk there.

The root system is not the only reason to be careful with this unique plant. The Welwitschia is also quite rare. It takes decades for the plant to grow and it does not often produce young plants . The seeds of the Welwitschia germinate only under the perfect conditions with a lot of rain, so only once every few years or even decades.

How do we recognize the Welwitschia? That is not difficult at all. The plant has a particular appearance with long leaves. Or, well, leaves? In fact, there are only two of them, but throughout the decades the leaves tear in several strips. At the colourful center you can distinguish the males from the females. Females have some kind of pine cones, but males have narrower and smaller ‘pestles’. These female pinecones might explain why the plant may possibly be classified with the conifers. Another suggestion is that it is a succulent plant. That similarity is easier to make by the looks of the plant.

Spending the night at the Welwitschia Drive

Do you want to combine your half-day trip to the Welwitschia Drive with an overnight stay in the area instead of Swakopmund? You can camp on camping spots along the tour itself, near the Swakop River. Your park permit includes permission to camp in the park.

If you are looking for a lodge, Goanikontes Oasis Rest Camp is a good option. Both lodge and camping spots are indicated on our map at the end of this blog.

The stops of the Welwitschia Drive

1. Lichen. The first stop will introduce you to another rare plant. Lichen is a combination of an alga and a fungus. It occurs in all kinds of colors, but the orange version is the best known. It takes decades for lichen to grow, so damage to it will not quickly recover. That is also the reason that no lichen fields can be seen along this route anymore. At the first beacon, a few stones with orange lichen can be seen, but the sight of an orange field has unfortunately disappeared here. A sign explains this and warns visitors to be careful with nature.

2. Dollar Bush. The Dollar Bush – named after its dollar-shaped leaves – can also survive under the harsh desert conditions. Unfortunately, there aren’t a lot of bushes around here (anymore).

3. Ox wagon tracks. How vulnerable nature is, can be seen at this point. Although ox wagons are no longer used since the arrival of motorized cars, you can see how even after all this time nature has not yet recovered from an ox wagon that once drove here. Also, there was once a lichen field here, but little of it is left.

4. Moon Valley. Here you have a great view over ‘moon landscape’.

5. Lichen. There apparently once were beautiful lichen fields up here, but unfortunately there is nothing left of them.

6. Moon Valley. Time for another photo stop. From this viewpoint you can marvel at the beautiful moon landscape as well.

7. Camp from WWI. During the First World War, South African soldiers camped here. Some of it can still be seen.

8. Turn left. Turn left here to continue the route. You will return here in the and and then continue on the road on the right.

9. Dolerite Dyke. These mountains are such special sight! The back of the mountain is black, like some kind of black backbone. This is where molten lava was forced upwards through cracks in the mountain. As the lava remains eroded less quickly than the granite mountain around it, now black mountain ridges remain.

10. Swakop River valley. After all that sand and the rocks you will be surprised by some trees here! The river will not show itself much outside the rainy season; it is usually just a dry river bed. Next to the riverbed, you’ll find picnic areas and camping sites for those who would like to camp out here.

11. Welwitschia Mirabilis plain. You’ll see so many Welwitschias in this plain around you. Can you distinguish the males from the females?

12. The oldest Welwitschia Mirabilis. One of the last stops on the tour is the largest and oldest Welwitschia in the world. It is estimated that this plant is more than 1,500 years old, a living fossil! David Attenborough once made a film stop here (check out the video here ). Unlike the documentary maker, we are not allowed to come so close to the plant. To protect the fragile root system of this natural wonder, there is now a fence around it.

13. Verlaten Von Stryk Mine. From the oldest Welwitschia, you’ll drive straight back to the C28. At the end of the route you’ll find the abandoned Von Stryk Mine. Here an iron mine was excavated by hand in the 1950s.

Continue reading: other unique natural phenomena you can not miss during your trip through Namibia? We wrote this blog on Namibia’s unique nature about it!

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Departure Windhoek 14h00 - Arrival Swakopmund 18h00

For those of our passengers who are booked on the afternoon flight from Windhoek's Hosea Kutako International Airport we use the Roof of Africa Hotel in Windhoek as layover location should they so wish. We then use Omahuka Transfers to deliver them from there safely at the airport.

For those of our passengers who arrive at the airport early in the morning, we use Omahuka Transfers again to deliver them at Roof of Africa should they so wish, from where we safely deliver them to Swakopmund.

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Bus 1 - Departure Swakopmund - 06h00

Bus 2 - Departure Swakopmund - 07h00

School Bus - Departure Swakopmund - 06h10

School Bus - Departure Swakopmund - 13h15

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Bus 4 - Departure Swakopmund - 17h00

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Bus 1 - Departure Walvis Bay - 07h00

Bus 2 - Departure Walvis Bay - 08h00

School Bus - Departure Walvis Bay - 06h40

School Bus - Departure Walvis Bay - 14h00

Bus 3 - Departure Walvis Bay - 17h00

Bus 4 - Departure Walvis Bay - 18h00

For all our Swakopmund passengers. the bus stop is at the Woolworths parking area right in the town centre.

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Pickups and Drop-offs can also be made along our Windhoek route, which are on the B2 via Usakos, Karibib and Okahandja.

Arrangements can be made for door-to-door pickups, please arrange beforehand.

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