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Cheonggyecheon Stream: A Guide To One Of The Top Things To See In Seoul

Cheonggyecheon Stream (청계천) is one of the top things touted on lists of things to see in Seoul, South Korea. The river which starts near Gwanghwamun Square and eventually ends at the Han River is where the Seoul Lantern Festival is held each year among other popular annual events. Whether it’s summer or autumn, if you want to take a walk in downtown Seoul, this where you should go.

I’ve had a goal to walk the entire length of the Cheonggyecheon Stream for a few years now and finally got around to it this year. After 15 years living in Seoul, yes, I have odd goals, but there it is. Here’s what to see along the entire length of the Cheonggyecheon Stream when you decide to go!

Here’s the Cheonggyecheon Stream guide you need to read:

The History

Benefits of restoring the cheonggyecheon stream, events held at the cheonggyecheon stream, “spring” sculpture, waterfall & rainbows, gwangtonggyo bridge (광통교), king jeongjo’s royal procession mosaic, samilgyo bridge (삼일교), sewoon bridge (세우교), gwangjang market (광장시장), dongdaemun (동대문), seongbukcheon (선북천)/cheonggyecheon (청계천) meeting point, cheonggyecheon ramshackle houses.

• Cheonggyecheon Museum

Museum Onward

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The Cheonggyecheon Stream was originally a naturally flowing river with water falling from Inwangsan Mountain. It was simultaneously a local resource and a hazard for the local residents as it overflowed in monsoon seasons and caused flooding.

Throughout the Joseon Dynasty, the riverside was updated and reconstructed to allow for easier use. The river was nice enough up until the Japanese occupation from 1910 to 1945 at which point it became dirty and polluted.

By 1953, after the Korean War, more people were moving to the city and throwing trash into the dirty water making it even worse. And finally, in 1958, construction began to completely cover the river with an elevated motorway. The Cheonggyecheon Stream was effectively covered and hidden from sight for the next 25 years.

Then in 2003, the mayor, Lee Myung Bak, started a project to remove the highway and restore the stream. The effects of which weren’t fully known until construction was finally completely. As the road was dismantled and nature was brought back to downtown Seoul and 120,000 tonnes of water was pumped in, the restoration project led to numerous benefits for locals and the city of Seoul.

Dismantling the 10 lane highway that carried 170,000 vehicles daily through downtown Seoul encouraged a huge transformation of the downtown area.

• It encouraged transit use. As people couldn’t drive their vehicles as easily through the center of the city, more people were encoraged to take buses or subways. There was actually a 15.1% increase in bus ridership and 3.3% increase in subway ridership between 2003 and 2008.*
• The decrease in vehicles downtown in turn improved the air quality and water quality. There was a 10.3% decrease in air pollution from vehicles.*
• The decrease in pollution also led to a decrease in the temperature downtown. The urban heat island effect was decreased by 4.5%.*
• The better air and water quality and reduction in temperature was an invitation to wildlife to return and today, visitors can see fish, cranes, and other birds happily enjoying the Cheonggyecheon Stream.
• Today, the Cheonggyecheon Stream has more then 64,000 visitors daily as they’re either walking or taking a break from work or enjoying the scenery creating more quality of life opportunities.*

*The stats here were found in the Global Designing Cities Initiative Case Study on the Cheonggyecheon Stream.

Numerous events are held along the Cheonggyecheon Stream which is why locals and tourists alike flock to the area year round. Generally, the events and installations are held at the beginning of the stream at Gwanghwamun Square and stretch for a few blocks.

In the spring, there are usually art festivals. Though because of Covid, the past couple of years have held the Buddhist lanterns usually seen in the massive Lotus Lantern Festival Parade which unfortunately couldn’t be held.

In the autumn there is the popular Seoul Lantern Festival usually held in October. Lights are strung across the top of the walkway and lanterns are placed in the waterway to enjoy in the evenings.

In the winter, there are still more lanterns placed in the waterway to celebrate the holidays.

No matter the time of the year or the time of the day, you will probably find something fun happening along the Cheonggyecheon Stream in downtown Seoul.

What To See Along The River

Want to walk along the entire Cheonggyecheon Stream like us? Or just want to know what to see along the way? Let’s go step by step starting from the beginning at Gwanghwamun Square all the way out to the Han River.

How long is the Cheonggyecheon Stream?

The Cheonggyecheon Stream is 10.92km long. It starts in downtown Seoul, meets the Jungnangcheon Stream and then empties into the Han River. Are you ready to go for a walk?

Address Notes: The addresses below are the street level addresses as the river stops themselves don’t really have addresses. This should make it easier if you want to head to a certain section but just know as the GPS will say you’ve arrived when you’re street level and you may not be able to see anything, like the art beneath the bridges, until you head down to the riverside level.

When you’re walking on the main road and aren’t sure where the Cheonggyecheon Stream starts, just look for the sculpture by Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen called “Spring”. The sculpture, created by the Swedish pop artists, is a 20 meter high spiral cone painted in red and blue and is meant to be a symbol of renewal in nature. There was some controversy when it was chosen back in 2006 but has been there since installation and has become a mainstay of the downtown art scene.

• Address: 1 Cheonggyecheon-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul (서울 종로구 청계천로 1)

The entrance to the Cheonggyecheon Stream has a waterfall that pumps water into the stream and the first bridge features some fun rainbow lights. This is often the busiest area as the entrance is here and events start from here. Take a seat along the stream and just enjoy the lights or keep walking on to the next section. This is a beautiful from day into night. Just check out those rainbows, it’s one of the prettiest spots in Seoul at night to take a walk.

One of the most important and busiest bridges during the Joseon Dynasty, it was originally built with wood and soil but was destroyed by the numerous floods.

The bridge you can see today was constructed during the reign of King Taejong between 1400 and 1418 and to show his ruthlessness, he used the stones from the tomb of Queen Sindeok. Buried for 100 years, restoration on the bridge happened when the river was restored. Some of the stones you can see today are even original.

• Address: 35 Cheonggyecheon-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul (서울 종로구 청계천로 35)

Pro Tip: If you want to take a break here, head up to the main street and find HiKR Ground . Opened by the Korea Tourism Organization, it’s an immersive tourism space with multiple floors, a cafe on the top floor, and it’s completely free to enter. It’s a great space to cool off in the summer or warm up in the winter and have some fun while you’re at it.

Just before the Jangtonggyo Bridge, a beautiful tiled mosaic depicting King Jeongjo’s Royal procession begins on the north side of the stream. The mosaic is 192 meters long and is apparently the largest tile wall painting in the world. It is made up of 5,120 individual ceramic tiles. It depicts King Jeongjo leading a royal procession to the tomb of his father in Hwaseong in 1785 escorted by his mother Hyegyeonggung Hong.

You can also see this woodblock map of the streets of Seoul that was produced by Kim Jeongho in 1825. Called Suseon Jeondo, you can recognize numerous names across Seoul that still exist today. The Suseon Jeondo is considered the most outstanding woodblock map of Seoul ever produced during the Joseon Dynasty in terms of accuracy and size.

• Address: 61 Cheonggyecheon-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul (서울 종로구 청계천로 61) (Starts around here)

Quite a few of the bridges feature colorful murals beneath them so you definitely want to walk beneath and enjoy them. The stream is known for hosting various artistic events throughout the year, but even when there aren’t any going on, it’s quite a creative atmosphere.

• Address: 93 Cheonggyecheon-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul (서울 종로구 청계천로 93)

Now, this is one of the newest bridges over the stream. The street level bridge has been there for awhile, but there has been a lot of development in the Sewoon Sangga Market area over the past few years and they’ve built a second floor pedestrian bridge from that market to the market on the other side of the stream. Apparently, this used to exist some time ago and now as they redevelop the area, they replaced it. If you want to stop off, head up to Sewoon Sangga for an awesome view of Jongmyo Shrine and Namsan Tower from the rooftop.

• Address: 159 Cheonggyecheon-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul (서울 종로구 청계천로 159)

While the Gwangjang Market isn’t ON the Cheonggyecheon Stream, if you’re walking along the entire stream like we were, this is where I’d recommend stopping for lunch. Head up to the main road at Baeogae Road and into the market on the north side of the stream. The market runs the entire stretch from that road to Majeon Bridge and there’s not much to see in that section of the Cheonggyecheon Stream so it’s a win/win.

• Address: 88 Changgyeonggung-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul (서울 종로구 창경궁로 88)

There isn’t much on the stream itself from Gwangjang Market to Dongdaemun. If you’re looking for a generally quieter section, this would be a good section to visit. There are fish and the plants take over a bit more of the path. After Dongdaemun, there are again art installations to check out as you meander. The stream begins to widen a bit after this point and become much more natural and taken over by the plant life.

• Address: 295 Cheonggyecheon-ro, Dongdaemun-gu, Seoul (서울 동대문구 청계천로 295)

An interesting aspect of this portion of the river are the giant concrete support pillars which once held the overpass. While the rest of the pillars have been demolished, these ones were left as a monument to that industrial period in Korea’s past and have even been designated as Seoul Future Heritage #248. It’s here that you can really feel how high and big the highway that went through the city once was.

• Address: 443 Cheonggyecheon-ro, Dongdaemun-gu, Seoul (서울 동대문구 청계천로 443)

While the houses that used to line the Cheonggyecheon Stream are no longer standing, there are some 1960s era house replicas just outside of the Cheonggyecheon Stream Museum that visitors can see to get a feel of what the riverside looked like decades ago.

The reconstruction includes homes, a convenience store, a coffee shop, a comic book store, and a school. You can try on retro Korean school uniforms here too if you want.

• Address: 530 Cheonggyecheon-ro, Seongdong-gu, Seoul (서울 성동구 청계천로 530)

Cheonggyecheon Museum (청계천박물관)

Learn about the history and the stream over time at this museum which has a façade in the shape of the stream itself. This is a great opportunity if you have children to let them learn a bit more about the riverside and Korean history. Or if you’re interested in more ecological and historical information on the stream, head in yourself.

• Hours: Tuesday – Friday: 9:00am ~ 7:00pm; Weekends: 9:00am ~ 6:00pm in the winter / 9:00am ~ 7:00pm in the summer
• Admission:  FREE

From the Cheonggyecheon Museum onward, the path is a bit more overgrown with more natural space alongside the paths and then it hits the Jungnangcheon Stream (중랑천) which filters south to the Han River. This is where a lot more bicyclists are on the path as well as they don’t usually hit up the beginning of the Cheonggyecheon where there are much more pedestrians in the way.

If you make it all the way out to the Han River, you’ll come out near Eungbongsan on the western side or Seoul Forest in Seongsu-dong on the eastern side.

The Cheonggyecheon Stream is a beautiful place to take a walk and when there are events going on, it’s even better. There is definitely a reason the Cheonggyecheon makes it onto almost every list of top things to see in Seoul.

Whether you’re interested in the eco benefits of the stream, want a pedestrian friendly place to walk through the city in Seoul, or just want a calm place to take a break in downtown Seoul, this is where you should go.

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Cheonggyecheon Stream

Cheonggyecheon Stream is an 8.4 kilometer (5.2 mile) waterway and public space that runs from west to east through the heart of downtown Seoul. During the Joseon Dynasty, the stream was known as Gaecheon, meaning open stream.

Over the years, the stream which brought national pride, was refurbished many times by the orders of multiple kings.

During the reign of King Taejong, who reigned from 1400 to 1418, the banks were strengthen and bridges were built.

Refurbishment work became a national project during the reign of King Yeonjo, who ruled from 1724 to 1776.

The stream was renamed to Cheonggyecheon during the Japanese occupation. During this time, attempts to cover it up were unsuccessful.

Makeshift houses were built on the banks of the water after the Korean War. Over the next few years, trash and waste from residents living in the area caused conditions to deteriorate and become an eyesore for the city.

In 1958, work started to convert the waterway into an elevated highway. In 1976, work was completed on the 5.6 kilometer (3.4 mile) concrete highway.

Table of Contents

Restoration

In July 2003, work began to remove the elevated highway and restore Cheonggyecheon to its original beauty. Work took over two years to complete which included pumping 120,000 tons of water back into the dry stream and restoring Gwangtonggyo Bridge and Supyogyo Bridge.

In September 2005, Cheonggyecheon was reopened to the public. This new landmark is now a popular destination for tourists and locals who want to experience natural beauty and wildlife in a large, urban city.

Cheonggyecheon Stream Hours

How to get to cheonggyecheon stream.

Cheonggyecheon Stream can be accessed by multiple subway lines and subways stations.

Line 1 Stations : City Hall, Jonggak, Jongno 3-ga, Jongno 5-ga, Dongdaemun, Sinseoldong

Line 2 Stations : Euljiro 1-ga, Euljiro 3-ga, Euljiro 4-ga, Sindang, Sangwangsibni

Line 3 Stations : Jongno 3-ga

Line 4 Stations : Dongdaemun History & Culture Park

Line 5 Stations : Gwanghwamun

Additional Resources

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Last Updated on Dec 12, 2021

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A Day in Cheonggyecheon: The Best Places to See Near the Stream

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Cheonggyecheon, meaning “clear stream,” is a 10.9-kilometer-long recreational park around the beautiful 11-kilometer Cheonggyecheon River stream that runs through the heart of Seoul with several places to see nearby. The stream was once hidden beneath a highway, but it was restored in 2005 and has become one of the most popular tourist destinations in the city. If you’re looking for things to do near Cheonggyecheon, look no further! This blog post will list some of the best places to visit near the stream.

Table of Contents

Events Held at The Cheonggyecheon Stream

The Cheonggyecheon Stream is a local favorite for residents and tourists, as it hosts many events year-round. Most of these events are held near the start of the stream at Gwanghwamun Square and continue down the stream for a few blocks.

There are usually art festivals in the spring. But because of Covid, the past couple of years have had the Buddhist lanterns parade.

The Seoul Lantern Festival is an annual event typically occurring in October, where strings of lights are illuminated above a walkway, and lanterns float downstream.

During the winter, when snow falls and the temperature dips below freezing, even more lanterns are placed in the waterway to celebrate the holidays. The sparkling lights brighten up the nights and bring cheer to all who see them.

No matter the season or time of day, you can always find something fun at the Cheonggyecheon Stream in downtown Seoul.

Places to See at the Cheonggyecheon Park

There are many places to see in and around the Cheonggyecheon Park, but the following are among the most popular spots for tourists:

“Spring” Sculpture

The “Spring” sculpture, created by pop artists Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen, is a giant 20-meter spiral cone painted in red and blue. It was selected back in 2006 to be placed on the Cheonggyecheon Stream but caused some controversy initially because people thought it was too out-of-the-box. Now, the downtown art scene wouldn’t be complete without it!

Waterfall & Rainbows

The first thing you’ll see upon entering the Cheonggyecheon Stream area is a big, beautiful waterfall with a bridge adorned with rainbow lights. This spot can get pretty crowded since it’s both the entrance and starting point for events, but it’s worth sitting down by the stream to enjoy the atmosphere or continue exploring more of what this place has to offer.

Gwangtonggyo Bridge

The Gwangtonggyo Bridge was a vital structure during the Joseon Dynasty. Unfortunately, it was often ruined by floods due to its construction from wood and soil. The bridge still standing today was built when King Taejong ruled between 1400 and 1418. He gathered the stones from Queen Sindeok’s tomb to show his lack of mercy. The bridge underwent restoration 100 years later when the river was being repaired, and some of the original stones are still in place.

View this post on Instagram A post shared by Jackie (@jaxxofspades)

King Jeongjo’s Royal Procession Mosaic

Located just before the Jangtonggyo Bridge is a mesmerizing, tiled depiction of King Jeongjo’s Royal procession. The picturesque mosaic is 192 meters long and comprises 5,120 ceramic tiles. It Tells the story of King Jeongjo leading a royal escort to his father’s tomb in Hwaseopeeng in 1785 while being accompanied by his mother, Hyegyeouggung Hong.

Seoul’s street map, called Suseon Jeondo, was produced by Kim Jeongho in 1825. You can recognize numerous names across Seoul that still exist today on this map, considered the most outstanding woodblock map of Seoul ever produced during the Joseon Dynasty in terms of accuracy and size.

Samilgyo Bridge

The bridges, which each have colorful murals beneath them, are worth walking under and admiring. Streams that run through the park are also known for hosting various artistic events throughout the year – even when there aren’t any events, it’s still a very creative atmosphere.

Sewoon Bridge

The street-level bridge has been around for a while, but there was recent construction of a second-floor pedestrian bridge spanning the market from one side of the stream to the other. Apparently, this used to exist some time ago, and now as they redeveloped the area, they replaced it. If you want to stop off, head up to Sewoon Sangga for an awesome view of Jongmyo Shrine and Namsan Tower from their rooftop.

Seongbukcheon /Cheonggyecheon Meeting Point

Among The tallest pillows were those of the Jamsugyo Bridge, which formerly spanned across the entire river. Although most of them have been demolished, a few support pillars remain and have been deemed Seoul Future Heritage #248. These piers are all evidence of how humongous the highway used to be that once went through this city.

Cheonggyecheon Ramshackle Houses

Although the houses that used to stand by the Cheonggyecheon Stream are no longer there, some replicated houses from the 1960s era line just outside of the Cheonggyecheon Stream Museum. Consequently, visitors can understand what river life was like decades ago. The renovation repairs buildings and offers a Korean Uniform try-on experience for those who want to feel like they’re back in school.

Cheonggyecheon Museum

The museum, which is shaped like the stream it features exhibits on, provides a great overview of the river’s history. If you have kids, this provides an educational opportunity to teach them about Korea’s riverside and past. Even if you aren’t accompanying children, the museum provides fascinating ecological and historical facts that make it worth visiting.

Ending Note

If you want to enjoy a lovely walk and watch some fantastic events, the Cheonggyecheon Stream is certainly the place for you. No wonder this stunning attraction made it onto nearly every “must-see” list in Seoul! Interested in the eco benefits of a stream? Wanting a pedestrian-friendly place to walk through the city center? Or looking for a calm oasis away from the hustle and bustle? All of these (or any of them!) may apply to you; this is the place for you. Come and experience this wonderful place yourself – you won’t regret it!

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Anyaa is a versatile writer with an insatiable wanderlust and a deep love for all things Korea. Her passion for exploration and storytelling shines through in her diverse articles covering every aspect of Korean travel. From the bustling streets of Seoul to the tranquil beauty of Jeju Island, her articles serve as a virtual passport for readers, providing them with insider tips, detailed itineraries, and practical advice to ensure an unforgettable journey through Korea.

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Cheonggyecheon tours.

• Things to do

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Visit Cheonggyecheon

Just a few moments’ walk from Sejongro, one of the busiest streets in the city, you’ll come across the Cheonggyecheon Stream. This 3.6 mile (5.8-kilometer) stretch of flowing water is surrounded by trees and grass, and is spanned by 22 bridges. It runs from west to east through downtown before reaching Jungnangcheon and eventually flowing into the River Han.

Cheonggyecheon Stream was not always such a welcome sight. During the 1950s, the squalid state of the water meant that the authorities covered it with concrete. Later on, an elevated highway was constructed over the top. The area as you see it today was reopened in 2005. The area became extremely popular with locals, and was soon a favorite meeting spot for Seoul families.

You can take a walking tour of Cheonggyecheon Stream. (Go to the Cheonggye Plaza information booth for details and to pay for the tour). Learn more about the history of the stream and how it came to be the center of one of the most popular urban renewal schemes in the country. Guides will also point out the various waterfalls, fountains and art installations along the route.

If you prefer to do your own walk, it’s recommended you start at Gwanghwamun station. Here you’ll see a bubbling fountain and often some kind of street performance. As you make your way along the stream, look out for architecture like the butterfly-inspired Narae Bridge, and various displays of local art on and around the water.

The Cheonggyecheon Stream flows through much of downtown, so you can use it as a route to visit various Seoul landmarks. Deoksugung Palace, Seoul Plaza and Insadong Street are all within walking distance of the stream. Cheonggyecheon Stream is open all day, every day. There is no entrance fee. If you’re in Seoul long enough it’s worth visiting once in the day, and again at night. After dark, the water and surrounding shrubbery is illuminated.

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Find out about the history of Seoul when you spend time at Heunginjimun. Stroll along the riverfront or visit the shops in this vibrant area.

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Cheonggyecheon Stream 청계천

서울특별시 중구 태평로1가 ~성동구 신답철교 | Taepyeong-ro 1-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul

Gwanghwamun Station (line 1, exit 5). 3 mins walk.

City Hall Station (line 1/2, exit 4). 6 mins walk.

LOTTE Department Store / LOTTE Hotel Seoul. 8 mins walk in the direction of the stream.

www.cheonggyecheon.or.kr

The 10.84 km Cheonggyecheon Stream flows through the heart of Seoul, from Gwanghwamun to Dongdaemun.

It is a transformed ecological park of natural beauty after 3 years of restoration project to complete in 2005.

Daytime at Cheonggyecheon Stream

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Cheonggyecheon Stream at Night

At night, visitors can enjoy the fantastic display of light and water at the start point of the stream at Cheonggye Plaza.

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Along the two sides of the waterfall are the Palseokdam wishing wells , made of 8 different stones from each of the nation's 8 provinces.

Cheonggyecheon Stream in Autumn

In autumn, discover the different autumn foliage scenes along the 5.8km stretch from Gwanghwamun Station, Jonggak Station , Jongno3-ga Station , Jongno5-ga Station to Dongdaemun Station .

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Within short period after the Seoul Lantern Festival in November, the lanterns changed to the festive Christmas and New Year theme in December.

Map of Cheonggyecheon Stream & How to Get There

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• Regent Seven Seas Cruises

Best of Moscow by high speed train

By shuguley , February 15, 2014 in Regent Seven Seas Cruises

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Sure would appreciate someone who has taken "Best of Moscow by high speed train" from St. Petersburg could please share their impressions of this shore excursion. From the description this sounds like a very long day.

Wondering how the 4 hour train trip was in terms of accommodations, etc. Also what time did you leave the ship and what time at night did you return? Were both legs of the trip on the high speed rail (I read that slower trains also travel the same tracks)?

My wife and I are considering this excursion. We thought that if we are making all the effort to go to Russia then how could we pass up going to Moscow, walking in Red Square, seeing St. Basil, etc.

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If you are considering this on the 2015 June Baltic cruise on Voyager; my suggestion is don't. There is so much to do in St. Petersburg and although a train is one of my favorite ways to travel the time would be far better spent in St. P.

Thanks for the advice. Yes, this would be on the Voyager during the 2015 season but not yet sure exactly which cruise.

We did the Moscow excursion "on a different luxury line", but from your brief description it sounds very much like the same trip, so I will operate on that assumption. It is a VERY long day! We left the ship at 5:30 AM and returned at 12:30 AM. The highspeed train trip is comfortable, and while they call it "Business Class" it does not compare well to the equivalent class on say Rail Europe. When we did it in 2011, we did have highspeed both ways, and the trip back seemed much longer as the adrenaline and excitement had worn off!:D

Moscow itself is not that terribly different from any other big city in the world, but this Cold War kid never thought he would ever stand in Red Square, never mind walk the grounds of The Kremlin, or tour The Kremlin Palace, or see (but not visit) Lenin's Tomb, or visit The Armoury. But he did, and he loved every minute of it! Yes, it is a long day, and you barely scratch a scratch on the surface, but it is worth it. There is a tremendous amount to see in St. Petersburg, but every Baltic cruise goes to St. Petersburg, so you can go back if you choose to. Not every cruiseline offers you the chance to see Moscow.

I have not personally done this tour, but our last time in St Petersburg, the private guide that we hired for a day was leading the regent tour to Moscow on the high speed train the next day. He said it was way better than the previous alternative, which was flying to Moscow and back. He said that you actually got to Moscow faster because you didn't have to deal with airline checkin etc. it did seem like a very long day to me, and there is so much to see and do in st. Petersburg that I didn't consider doing it.

countflorida

We toured to Moscow from St. Petersburg via the hi-speed SAPSAN train last September, from a Baltic cruise on the Oceania Marina. You need to have a two-night, three day port call in St. Petersburg to take this tour because the tour typically leaves the ship around 5:00 - 5:30 AM and doesn't return until after midnight the next day. We didn't take the ship's tour; we made private arrangements with TravelAllRussia for three days of touring, the first and third days in St. Petersburg and the second day the tour to Moscow by train. Our cost for the private tour for three days was about the same as what the ship charged for the excursion to Moscow alone. There are a number of private tour agencies that operate in St. Petersburg and offer the Moscow train tours; we would strongly recommend them over the ship's tours.

All three days had private guides with car and driver. The second day, the driver picked us up at the ship and took us to the train, but we were alone on the train, and met in Moscow by the guide on the station platform. After our tour and dinner, we were brought back to the train and after the return train trip met by the driver and taken back to the ship. Because you are alone on the train you must have your own Russian visas.

If this is your first visit to St. Petersburg, I would agree there is much more to see there. We found Moscow somewhat a disappointment, particularly Red Square. The Kremlin and the cathedral in Red Square were also worth seeing. But the best thing we saw was the Moscow subway! I worked for the Washington Metro system back in the 1980s as it grew from 40 to 80 miles and although I was in the computer area, I learned a lot about the challenges of running a subway system. We used the Moscow system to get across the city from where we had dinner to the train station, and I was amazed at the cleanliness', speed of operation, the short headways maintained, and the courtesy of everyone involved. A very impressive experience!

We had been to St. Petersburg before, and so had the time to take a day and go to Moscow. Also, I really like trains, and the SAPSAN is a German train set running on Russian rails. Seats are like first class domestic air, spacious but not too plush or comfortable, but with enough room. Not too much recline, and almost 8 hours on the train in two shots is a lot for an old man. They come through and sell drinks, candy, etc. but the sellers don't speak English and no one around us helped, so we had just poor coffee once coming, and brought stuff with us for the trip back. Not too much to see from the train either, particularly on the return when it is night the whole way.

If you decide to go, take a private tour and avoid the overly expensive ship's tour. I'm glad we did it, but wouldn't bother to repeat the tour; we've seen Moscow.

Thanks so much to all of you for the thorough and thought insight. Yhe information you have provided is most helpful.

countflorida: Your detailed post is very helpful. We are not quite ready for a Baltic cruise but should do so within a year. Time enough to do our pre travel research, bookings and visa gathering.:) Thank you!

Emperor Norton

Sure would appreciate someone who has taken "Best of Moscow by high speed train" from St. Petersburg could please share their impressions of this shore excursion. From the description this sounds like a very long day.   Wondering how the 4 hour train trip was in terms of accommodations, etc. Also what time did you leave the ship and what time at night did you return? Were both legs of the trip on the high speed rail (I read that slower trains also travel the same tracks)?   My wife and I are considering this excursion. We thought that if we are making all the effort to go to Russia then how could we pass up going to Moscow, walking in Red Square, seeing St. Basil, etc.

I did this on Seabourn. IMO DONT. Take Aeroflop (er Aeroflot). The train has non folding seats where you are literally knee to knee with your fellow passenger (facing each other). Further they don't believe in air conditioning. It's also the worlds slowed bullet train. I think I would have found more enjoyment wandering around the St. Petersburg and Moscow airports.

Countflorida,

This is a little off topic,, however we had planned a river cruise in Russia but decided we would rather stay on land and have booked about two weeks with Travel-All-Russia using the private guide and driver. I'm curious as to how you found them as a tour company.

The guides they provided were fine. We had a different guide each of the days in St. Petersburg, but both were flexible, pleasant, knowledgeable and spoke English very well, as did the guide in Moscow, incidentally. She was a bit aloof, distant, not too friendly, but otherwise fine. In fact, she was the one who suggested taking the Metro, which unexpectedly became one of the highlights of the Moscow excursion. If I have a complaint with AllTravelRussia, it is with their plan and its execution (more later).

I had requested emphasis on World War II (in Russia, the Great Patriotic War) sites and info. In scheduling us, they weren't careful about dates and a couple of the sites we wanted to see were scheduled on the third day, after we'd been to Moscow. But both sites were closed that day of the week, and that info was readily available, right on web sites describing them. Also, the included meals (lunches in St. Pete, dinner in Moscow) were not what we asked for: light meals with some choices, so we could avoid things we didn't like and choose things we did like. My request was ignored; we were given full Russian meals with a fixed menu, no choice. On the first day, a fish dish was the entre, but I am allergic to fish. Fortunately, I had the e-mail I'd sent with me and showed it to the guide, and she was able to change my entre to chicken, which was very good actually. But we didn't want a 3-4 course lunches or dinner (in Moscow). We had the guide drop the lunch the third day, although we never got any credit or refund. But, particularly in contrast to the ship's tours, the prices were so reasonable we didn't worry too much about it.

The people who were on the ship's tour to Moscow saw us boarding the same train for which they were forced to queue up and wait on the way back, and asked us what we had done. I was candid and open so they were not happy when I explained what we had arranged and particularly what it had cost. Also, when we returned to the ship, we found they had laid on a late supper for those who had gone to Moscow, so up we went and had something. Well, it turns out the late supper was supposed to be just for those on the ship's tour, but we and others on 'independent' tours, there were a dozen or more of us, crashed the party, actually got there first, and they didn't realize it until the larger group arrived and there weren't enough tables/places set. By that time, the 'independents' had all gotten served and were eating; what could they do?

A couple from the larger group sat down with us and asked us about our tour, and they were the ones I told about our arrangement and its cost. They turned to others who’d been with them and announced the details, loudly enough so the whole room heard, which started a lot of bitching and complaining. I gathered they weren't very happy with the ship's tour to begin with, and this was the straw that broke the camel's back. We finished up and beat it out of there, but overheard later that one of the excursion staff came to check on something and ran into a real mess. I caught a cold on the trip, which forced me to bed the second day following in Tallinn, so by the time we reappeared we heard about the contretemps' but apparently no one recalled who started it, thankfully.

Because of what happened to us, I would probably not use AllTravelRussia if I were to go again, or if I did, I would be sure to get confirmation of every detail of the tour. They do have good reviews generally, and we were certainly helped by their visa department and liked the guides and drivers. Their weakness, I say now with full 20:20 hindsight, is that once the sales person who plans the tour, sells it to you and collects your money, he (or she) transfers the plan to their Russia office for implementation; there is no follow-up to make sure it gets done right. And that is where our problems arose; we paid for a custom tour but got a standard package with a few destinations switched, and no one checked them out, even to see when they were open the day we were scheduled to go. If you check every detail that’s important to you, it should be OK, but that’s a hell of a way to have to do business, in my opinion.

Thank you for the 20/20 hindsight observation on your Russian tour operator, and better priced than the ship's excursion cost.

Thanks very much for the feedback.

We had the same experience as you so far as price. We originally booked a Viking Cruise but, hearing some things about the river cruises that made us unhappy, looked into other options. T-A-R cost the same or less than a cruise and had us in hotels for 11 days. We opted for the private tour. They have three tour levels, based on hotels. We originally opted for the four star as it did not cost much more than the three star hotels. Finally we decided to throw it all in and upgraded to five star. In Moscow we will be at the newly opened Kempinsky which is two blocks from Red Square. In St. Petersburg it is the Grand Hotel Europe, one of the most vaunted luxury hotels in Russia. Location is important for us as the tours use up only part of the day so being in the center of everything for our independent touring is important. As with many other cities, the less you pay, the farther out of the center of town you are.

We have been working with our salesman in D.C. and he seems to get back to us with the changes we want. He recently returned from Russia so is up on everything. When I asked they said they paid the full TA commission if I wanted so I got my usual TA on board so he is watching our back and giving us that extra level of comfort. He also set up our air, which I know pays him little or nothing, and got us business class for much less than T-A-R wanted for economy, though it took working for a while with a consolidator. He's happy to get his 10 percent on this trip without having booked it. He also took care of the trip insurance. We've been doing a lot of research on the CC sister site Trip Advisor and will write a report there. We will, I guess, become a source of info for CC members after having spent 5 days in Moscow and 6 in SP.

• 4 months later...

scubacruiserx2

Anybody considering a day trip to Moscow from St. Petersburg on the Sapsan may want to look at our travelogue filled with pictures.

http://boards.cruisecritic.com/showthread.php?t=1927687

Very informative. Thanks dor sharing. Jeff

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