cruise light comes on but won't set

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Cruise control turns on but won't set

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Hello everyone! I have a problem and I've already searched the forum but I haven't been able to find an answer. I have a 2010 Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, and my cruise control is able to turn on (the little yellow light on the button) but when I hit "set" to actually get the system to work, it does nothing. From what I've read, some people have fixed their problem by replacing the brake lights, but all of my brake lights are working (they're LED BTW, so I don't know if that could be causing the problem). Thanks in advance for the replies!  

The brake light switch is probably bad. Replace it with an AC Delco switch.  

Where is this brake light switch located? Is there any way to test if it's really bad before replacing it? Thanks!  

If you have scanner it may throw a code to check ,but it is a common problem. it's by the brake pedal arm under the dash  

Brake light switch is right above and behind the brake pedal arm. It doesn't throw a code, but I had the same problem and that's how I fixed it. I recommend taking a picture of it with your phone so you have a reference as to how it goes together. The clip is a little tricky, but not difficult.  

Yes they do throw codes but won't turn the light on, p0571 ,p0573, p0724 and a p0504 are just a few that I remember. and a vid to maybe help out  

Stone10GMC said: If you have scanner it may throw a code to check ,but it is a common problem. it's on the brake pedal arm under the dash Click to expand...

Brake light switch is definitely a possibility. But I would not discount the LED's in the brake lights. I put LED's in my wifes Cobalt third brake light and the Cruise wouldn't work. It took me a long time and a lot of trouble shooting to figure out that the LED's were the cause. I put stock bulbs back in and everything was fine. If you still have stock bulbs laying around, try putting them back in before you start replacing parts that you don't need to. If you do replace the brake light switch, use only an AC-Delco.  

esox07 said: Brake light switch is definitely a possibility. But I would not discount the LED's in the brake lights. I put LED's in my wifes Cobalt third brake light and the Cruise wouldn't work. It took me a long time and a lot of trouble shooting to figure out that the LED's were the cause. I put stock bulbs back in and everything was fine. If you still have stock bulbs laying around, try putting them back in before you start replacing parts that you don't need to. If you do replace the brake light switch, use only an AC-Delco. Click to expand...

I am not sure if it would solve the cruise control problem. But, first, I would put some stock bulbs back in to test to make sure that is the issue. Otherwise, you may be fixing something that isn't broke. Find out what the cause is before you start making corrections.  

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Cruise control turns on, but won't actually engage at set speed

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The light in the dash comes on indicating the cruise control has been turned on. Once I hit the set button and let off the gas pedal, the car just starts slowing down. I checked the plunger at the brake pedal and it looks ok to me, I tried recalibrating it like I found on here to do... but it still doesn't work. Any ideas? (2002 300M)  

same yr car. same problem...  

check the vacuum lines on the servo if you have a vacuum leak there will be no cruise or maybe even the diaphragm in the servo itself has a leak you may have to change the servo but I'd check the vacuum lines 1st  

Where under the hood is this located?  

I was just looking near there the other day. I'll check it closely tonight. Thanks a bunch.  

All lines look good, they're connected and no cracks or holes. Could I do a short quick test of taping the plunger button down and see if the cruise engages?  

not sure mate soon as I can find where I downloaded the fsm to I'll give you some more things to look at  

Yeah, I don't think it's too serious. I want to take this puppy out on a nice highway drive when I have to go out of town. She'll be sitting at home if I don't get the cruise fixed.  

Have you checked to see if the Cruise Control cable is actually connected to the throttle body?  

From what I can tell in that tight space yup. Everything looks connected. Ziptrix: thanks bud! I checked that t-connection first and it all looked good. I'm thinking something is up with that pedal switch.  

2000 FSM 2002 FSM One thing to look at is the rubber connection, at the T, by the plenum. I found my leak at this piece, even though it looked connected. The piece looked more like foam than solid rubber.  

Ok so the t-connector is solid, the lines all look good. The cable is attached to the TB like it should. I can turn on and off the cruise control light all I want. So those buttons work. On one run, when I hit the accelerate button on the other side the cruise light went off and wouldn't come back on till I shut the car off and started it again. Weird. I pulled the pedal out to make sure it was clicking that button in, it seems ok but next I'm going to try taping the button down and do a short run to see if it engages when I try to set it. Could be vacuum related elsewhere? The car while in gear and stopped, has a shudder/vibration. The RPMs don't fluctuate or anything but to me it reminds me of a vacuum leak. At first I thought it was bad gas because I bought this car and it hasn't ran in quite some time, I added a fuel injector cleaner to what was in there and burned that half tank and tonight she got a fresh full tank with another injector cleaner. The shudder is still kinda there. edit: if you have the cruise on, and you hit the brake - isn't the light supposed to go off in the dash? If anyone can tell me this, it would really narrow it down I think.  

Stepping on the brake should not turn the light off, it would just disengage.  

Ok - just wanted to make sure.  

I think my servo is toast. All the lines are getting good vacuum when I disconnect from the plenum, with the car running and unplugging the vacuum line going right into the top of the servo - there's good suction. I could check the harness underneath, what sort of voltage should it be getting?  

It could be the actual SET switch is shot. Have you tried checking for stored codes? From what I have read, the CEL does not always come on when there is an issue with the cruise control and need DRB3. I'm not positive, just what I read.  

Other than than resesting the plunger on the brake light switch, did you also check the continuty of the switch terminal's for the cruise control to see that they are changing state from N.C. to N.O. and vise versa. There are 3 different sets of contact's in the switch terminals 1&2 and 3&4 control cruise control, and 5&6 are for the brake lamp.  

Ok so I swapped in a different servo and it's the same deal. Checked all the cable connections, everything is good. So now I'm going to focus more on the steering wheel switch or the brake switch. Or figure out how to check the harness connecting to the servo, make sure it's sending a signal. There's no codes related to cruise control in the car.  

Did you figure out what the problem was?  

I've got my money on the brake light switch. It has been the biggest reason of non-operitive cruise controls I've seen, either from being out of adjustment or just having bad/worn contacts. You can get get the brake switch's most places for about $15-20. Otherwise use an Ohm meter and check for different resistance values of each of the crusie switches by pressing one at a time. I would start at the clock spring connector (RD/LG & BK/LB wires) and work down line to the PCM.  

I got about 20 to choose from at the local pick n pull, I'll take my chances there first. How do you remove it? Kinda hard to squat under there and see lol  

It's like a 1/4 twist (I believe CCW) to have it come out of the bracket. Then to install, you have to twist the opposite direction while pressing it against the bracket.  

Awesome thanks - how about those steering wheel buttons? Might as well grab ones at the the pick n pull while I'm there. Just some screws on the backside of the steering wheel? Or is the harness connector down in the column somewhere?  

iv'e had to take my brake switch apart a few times. those contacts in there are made of really thin spring steel it looks like, wouldn't be hard to get one bent out of shape or to snap after so many years.  

Mine definitely still has a spring behavior to it.  

This will tell you the size Torx you need for the wheel. I don't think you'll need to take the wheel off ... just stop at step #6.  

For the cruise switches, there's a single torx head screw on each one - accessible thru a hole on the forward side of the steering wheel.  

Ok I removed the assembly, looked fairly clean. Nothing looked burnt but some of those resistors are pretty small. Put it all back together and while it still turns on, it won't set. Either tomorrow or Wednesday I'll swing by the local yard and grab a button or two and possibly a brake switch.  

FWIW, here are the approx. resistor values (in kohms): On/Off 0.0 Set 6.7 Resume/Accel 15 Cancel 0.92 Coast 3.0  

If you had access to a DRB III you easily test your cruise control button's without even having to remove them. Still have my money on the brake switch.  

lbrowne said: Once I hit the set button and let off the gas pedal, the car just starts slowing down. Click to expand...

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my light comes on when setting still goes off when giving it gas HELP [email protected]  

Could be several things. Brake switch could be out of adjustment. Also it was learned in one of the LH forums some years ago that if the cam position sensor is on its way out, you won't notice anything wrong with how your engine is running, but the PCM occasionally picks up on the problem, and turns the cruise control off (as a precaution?). One owner discovered this after similar problems with his cruise control turning itself off - couldn't figure out why. Then one day his cam sensor solid failed. Magically, after he replaced the cam sensor, his cruise control worked perfectly from then on. He put 2 and 2 together. People were skeptical, but sure enough, over a couple of years after that, several others, including myself, had the same thing happen - weeks or months of unexplained flaky cruise control operation, and either pre-emptively replacing the cam position sensor or waiting for it to fail and then replacing it fixed the cruise control.. There could be other causes - should get an idea of other things to look at from reading this thread, but the brake switch and failing cam sensor or two of the more common ones.  

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5 Reasons Why Your Cruise Control Stopped Working

• Updated: March 15, 2023

It would be difficult to find a vehicle on the road today without cruise control. This invaluable feature makes driving long distances easier but can also cause trouble when it malfunctions. Understanding the reasons your cruise control stopped working ensures that you can get the problem fixed quickly for a more enjoyable ride. 

While this fault can cause issues with the cruise control system itself, there could also be an effect on the acceleration of your vehicle. That’s why you want to have it looked at as soon as you notice a problem. Let’s take a quick look at the reasons your cruise control may have stopped working.

Reasons Why Your Cruise Control Stopped Working

The most common reason a cruise control stops working is due to a blown fuse or a defective brake pedal switch . It can also be caused by issues with the throttle control system or the ABS. In older cruise control systems, it can be caused by a broken vacuum line.

Here is a more detailed list of the possible reasons your cruise control is not working:

1. Blown Fuse

All electrical systems in the vehicle are controlled by fuses. Your cruise control system is attached to a fuse that can blow if there is a short circuit or fault. Without a good fuse, the cruise control system can’t work at all.

Thankfully, it’s not difficult to find and replace a blown fuse. Look in the owner’s manual to find the fuse that corresponds with the cruise control technology. 

2. Defective Brake Pedal Switch

The brake pedal switch is responsible for turning the brake lights on and off based on the pedal position. Cruise control systems are designed to disengage whenever your brake pedal gets pressed. 

Because the cruise control is wired into the brake pedal switch, any fault can cause it to stop working. When the brake pedal switch malfunctions, the car believes the brakes are engaged, causing the system to turn off automatically. Not only that, but your car’s brake light might also be stuck on, leaving confused drivers in your wake. 

3. Malfunctioning Speed Sensor

Speed sensors are located on every wheel or differential. The purpose of these sensors is to monitor the speed of the wheels to determine if traction control is needed. 

The speed sensors are also part of the cruise control system. When a sensor fails, the cruise control can stop working and the speedometer might act strange as well. 

If there is an issue with a speed sensor, it will often show with an ABS warning light or a check engine light on the dashboard.

RELATED: 3 Symptoms of a Bad ABS Wheel Speed Sensor

4. Electrical Issues

The cruise control system is electronic, with many components working together to make the system operate. If the cruise control fails to work, you want to check the wiring harness and associated connectors for a fault.

You also need to ensure that the voltage source is supplying enough power to the system. Even the smallest fault can cause defects with the cruise control. In many cases, there can be an issue with the cruise control lever or buttons causing the cruise control to not engage.

If your cruise control buttons are located on the steering wheel it could also be caused by a bad clock spring, which is located behind the steering wheel.

Check the system with an OBD2 scanner to look for any trouble codes related to the cruise control.

RELATED: 5 Symptoms of a Broken Clock Spring, Location & Replacement Cost

5. Damaged Vacuum Actuator, Hoses or Cable (Older cruise control)

If you drive an older vehicle with cruise control, you might have an issue with the vacuum actuator or the cable that connects to the throttle. If there has been damage done to the vacuum hoses or the actuator, the cruise control will stop working altogether.

Additionally, the cable linking the actuator to the throttle must be in good shape. If it has been broken, the cruise control will fail. 

What is Cruise Control?

Cruise control is a feature that is used when you are traveling at a consistent speed. Cruise control was first introduced for automobiles in the 1950s. However, it took many years before it became a staple in the modern vehicle.

This electrical system allows you to set a predetermined speed and take your foot off of the gas pedal. If you are on a long drive, there is less fatigue because you don’t have to try to maintain your speed. Cruise control can also benefit fuel economy because the vehicle uses less fuel when traveling steadily. 

In newer cars, you might be able to find adaptive cruise control , which is a smart technology. Adaptive cruise control allows you to travel at a predetermined speed, but it also helps to maintain a safe distance from the vehicles in front of you with the help of sensors. With conventional cruise control, you need to take over when the car in front of you slows down, but that’s not the case with adaptive cruise control. 

There are also vehicles nowadays with not only cruise control, but fully self-driving vehicles . We will most likely see much more of this in the future.

Cruise Control Repair Cost

The cost to repair your cruise control system depends on what caused it to fail. If you need to replace a cruise control or brake switch, you might spend between $125 and $350, including parts and labor. However, the cost to change a fuse is only a few dollars and you can perform the replacement yourself in just a matter of seconds. 

On the other hand, when something major fails, such as the actuator, you could be looking at a much higher repair bill. In some vehicles, the cost to replace a cruise control actuator can cost more than $700. These costs rise if you drive a luxury vehicle or one that is difficult to get parts for. 

It might not seem immediately important for you to fix the broken cruise control, but this defective system can affect other performance aspects. You could start to notice issues with acceleration or have trouble with the speedometer. To play it safe, it’s always best to have the cruise control repaired as soon as you notice a problem.

Is there a fuse for the cruise control?

Yes. If the cruise control is installed from the factory, you should check your car’s owner’s manual for the fuse location. If it’s an aftermarket cruise control, you’ll need to follow the wires to find the fuse.

Does the brake switch affect the cruise control system?

Yes. The brake switch affects the cruise control system. The brake switch sends a signal to the cruise control system to let it know when the brakes are being applied for the engine to know when it should stop accelerating.

Will the cruise control work if the check engine light is on?

The cruise control function will be disabled when the check engine light is on in most car models, even if the cause of the check engine light is not the cruise control itself. This is mainly due to safety reasons.

Can a vacuum leak affect cruise control?

Older vehicles use vacuum to control the throttle for the cruise control, and in this case a vacuum leak can heavily affect the cruise control. However, modern cruise controls are fully electric and in most cases will not be affected by a vacuum leak if the check engine light is not illuminated.

Although many people may think that the cruise control system is unimportant and not worth spending money to repair, the problem can be caused by a faulty part that will affect the engine’s performance or durability. Therefore, it is best not to ignore the problem if your cruise control is not working without first diagnosing the car properly.

If your cruise control still isn’t working after trying all the tips in this article, it’s probably time to take it in for a professional opinion from a mechanic. It may be a more serious problem that requires replacement parts or repairs. In the meantime, drive safe and enjoy the open road!

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Cruise Control Not Working? 9 Potential Causes

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Cruise control reduces stress and fatigue on long drives, but if the system isn't working properly, it can become dangerous. If your vehicle's cruise control isn't working, one of the following nine issues may be the root cause.

How Cruise Control Works

Cruise control is a system to maintain vehicle speed without direct driver input. When you want to engage cruise control, you first turn the system “On” with a button or switch. However, this alone does not start the cruise control. When you “Set” cruising speed, the cruise control module (CCM) records the current speed, then takes control of the throttle body to maintain vehicle speed. When vehicle speed increases or decreases (due to wind or hills, for example), the CCM decreases or increases throttle body opening accordingly.

By modulating engine speed, the CCM can maintain your desired cruising speed on the highway. You can increase or decrease cruise speed by tapping a button or lever, and you can cancel cruise control by hitting the “Cancel” or “Off” buttons or stepping on the brake.

Throttle body control has changed over the years. Early systems used a vacuum motor and cable, but these eventually changed over to electric motors. Most recently, with the development of drive-by-wire or electronic throttle control systems (ETCS), cruise control is built into the engine control module (ECM), which controls the throttle body electronically.

Basic cruise control systems still require the driver to pay attention to changing road and traffic conditions. Adaptive cruise control systems, sometimes called "smart" cruise, use radar or laser detection to maintain safe distances from vehicles ahead. Some adaptive cruise control systems merely reduce engine speed to maintain distance, but some of the newest adaptive cruise control systems can also engage the brakes to slow or stop the vehicle. Still, even with adaptive cruise control, it's important that drivers never take their eyes off the road.

Why Is My Cruise Control Not Working?

There are a few basic ways that cruise control can fail, depending on how the system is designed. You may not be able to do much about ETCS cruise control systems, but there are a few things you can check:

Brake Light Switch – As cruise control is automatically cancelled by depressing the brake, some vehicles may disengage cruise control if it cannot detect the brake light switch.

Brake Lights – In some systems, cruise control is disabled when a brake light is blown. Aftermarket lighting, such as LED brake light conversion, might trick the CCM into thinking a brake light is blown, as LED bulbs draw less current than incandescent bulbs.

Fuses and Relays – On some vehicles, fuses and relays are used to protect the cruise control actuator circuit . If the fuse is blown or the relay is faulty, the system won’t work.

Spiral Cable – Many vehicles mount the cruise control switch on the steering wheel. A faulty spiral cable may have an open circuit, preventing the switch from contacting the CCM.

Control Switch – If the internal contacts wear out, the cruise control switch may not be able to contact the CCM. This might disable cruise control completely, or it might not react to the cancel or accelerate functions.

Check Engine Light – On some modern vehicles, particularly those equipped with ETCS, cruise control may be disabled if there is an engine or transmission problem .

Vacuum Leak – Some older vehicles used vacuum actuators to control the throttle body during cruise control operation. If there is a leak, such as a cracked hose or tube, the system won’t work. A vacuum leak might cause the engine to idler higher or set a fuel trim code.

Vehicle Speed Sensor – There are usually multiple vehicle speed sensors (VSS) on any given vehicle. The CCM might use a VSS feed from the ECM, instrument cluster, or transmission. If that signal is lost, the CCM can’t detect vehicle speed, disabling cruise control.

Electrical Problems – As most cruise control systems use electrical or electronic components, any diagnosis should include a thorough check of source voltage, wiring harnesses, and connectors. Anything loose or broken could disable the system entirely.

If your cruise control isn’t working properly, avoid using it until it is repaired. A faulty cruise control system may not cancel on demand, which will create a safety hazard for you and those around you. After assessing your cruise control yourself, take your vehicle to a trusted mechanic for a check or a couple diagnosis and repair.

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Fixing Faulty Cruise Control

Alarmingly, the speedometer needle steadily winds down from 75 mph toward 50. Just as you uncurl your feet and try to accelerate back to traffic speeds, the vehicle downshifts with a lurch and abruptly climbs back to over 80 mph. So you tap the brakes and disengage the cruise control to avoid a conversation with one of the many law enforcement officers lurking behind every other billboard. Toggling the Resume switch settles things down, holding to a legal speed on both the uphill and downhill sections of the interstate. The kids in the back seat have stopped threatening to throw up, too. Then you look in your mirror 20 miles later and see the lights. Red and blue flashing lights. You're doing over 85 mph and, odds are, Smokey isn't going to believe you have the cruise set to 70. Time to find out why your cruise control has a mind of its own.

IT'S NOT A BUG, IT'S A FEATURE Does your cruise control fall out of engagement partway up steep hills? Actually, it will normally drop out if the engine has to work too hard, mainly because after a while there isn't enough vacuum left to pull in the servo after sustained near-wide-open-throttle. You'll just have to put your foot into it. Downshifting helps.

Does your Japanese car not remember the set speed after tollbooths? Unlike most American and European cars, some Toyotas and Hondas are designed not to remember their set speed if the vehicle speed falls below 25 mph, and you're supposed to accelerate the vehicle to your set speed and hit the Set button again. Annoying, but that's the way they were designed.

Do you have to ride the brakes on longer downhills to keep from building up excess speed? That's normal too. The cruise control only has authority to reduce engine speed to idle. It doesn't activate the brakes. Modern cars, in an attempt to improve mileage, have very tall gear ratios, low-friction engine designs, low-rolling-resistance tires and optimized aerodynamics. That long downgrade outside of town may have accelerated your '60s-era Pontiac to only a couple of miles per hour above legal. But, it may well propel your new economy car to blatantly illegal velocities unless you intervene by braking or downshifting.

WHAT'S THAT HISS?: Most common cause of erratic cruise control? Vacuum leaks caused by deteriorated hoses.

SMOOTH AND STEADY Cruise control on your vehicle is a terrific device. It substantially reduces the driver's workload on longer trips, and can save substantial amounts of fuel and expense over the life of the vehicle--until it stops working.

We'll get to the scenario of not holding a steady speed later, but here are a couple of things to check immediately if the cruise control is on strike.

Does the Cruise icon on the dash light up when you turn the switch on? Duh. Check the fuse. You may need to look in the owner's manual to see which one if it's not tagged on the fuse box cover. An aftermarket cruise may have an inline fuse holder in the wiring to the controller.

If there is power to the system, the next check is the brake lights. Brake lights? Yup, cruise controls have a switch to toggle them off when you touch the brake pedal, and many use the same switch as the brake lights. If one of the brake lights has failed, the cruise control thinks the brakes are on all the time and won't come on. Same result if the switch is incorrectly adjusted or broken or jammed. Wait, there's more--if your vehicle has a manual transmission, there's a similar switch on the clutch pedal. You may need to break out a test light or multimeter to verify the function of this array of switches. These switches usually are normally closed switches, and close their contacts when the pedal is depressed. We've seen several cases of intermittent cruise control dropout caused by a brake light switch that was adjusted very tight. Any small bump would jiggle the brake pedal down far enough to toggle the brake lights on for a brief instant--long enough to shut down the cruise. Adjusting the switch to specs (usually so the brake lights come on after the pedal travels 1/2 in.) fixed it.

Once you verify all of these things, it's time to look for more subtle causes. Check underhood. Inspect the linkage between the cruise control actuator and the throttle. It may be as simple as a toilet-tank bead chain or a separate throttle cable with its own actuator cam to the throttle body. Look for disconnected or damaged wiring to the controller or actuator, particu-larly if it's an aftermarket system, which may have been installed by someone with poor mechanical skills.

Another obvious failure point is the vacuum line to the actuator. If it has fallen off, there's no vacuum to the actuator and no force can be applied to the throttle. We'll get ahead of ourselves here and mention that a vacuum line that looks fine may have a subtle leak caused by aging, brittle rubber or connections that don't seal well. A lot of the cruise controls we've seen with issues in regulating their speed correctly are fixed by simply replacing all the vacuum lines between the servo, vacuum reservoir (if there is one) and the intake manifold vacuum supply.

WHOA, NELLIE!: If your brake light switch is incorrectly adjusted, your cruise control may not lock in. A burned-out brake light can do the same.

WHAT'S THIS THING?: The cruise control servo motor could be anywhere in the engine compartment.

CONTROL ISSUE WITH YOUR SERVO There are two main components of the cruise control system: the controller and the servo.

The controller integrates all the inputs and tells the servo how far to actuate the throttle plates. Normally, there is no way you can service this item, so if you trace a problem to the controller, you'll have to buy a new one. A bad controller probably will require a service manual for specific diagnostics. You'll also need a scan tool to access any computer trouble codes to boot.

The servo does the work of moving the throttle blades to speed up the vehicle. Conventional systems are actuated by manifold vacuum. Check the linkage from the servo to the throttle to ensure it's properly hooked up and not binding or sticky. Inside the servo is a diaphragm that moves to pull on the linkage. Some older systems, used on cars or trucks that don't have throttle-position sensors, may have a rod that moves in and out of a magnetic coil to tell the controller the throttle position. There are also two electrically operated solenoid valves. One valve admits vacuum to the diaphragm chamber to add more throttle. The other bleeds air back into the chamber to reduce throttle. Normally, they will never be open at the same time, so if one is sticky or leaking, cruise control operation will be erratic at best. Check for leakage with a handheld vacuum pump. A leaky valve may benefit from a quick shot of silicone spray.

Diesels and some late models may use a servo that is completely electrical. These usually are mounted on the fenderwell or firewall, and are connected to the throttle by a second throttle cable. Other than keeping the cable lubricated and properly adjusted, there's not much to fiddle with. As always, check the shop manual for specifics on your vehicle.

Many late-model cars have throttle plates connected directly to an actuator controlled by the engine management computer. There is no physical connection between your right foot and the throttle blades (Scary, eh?), and there may or may not be a separate cruise control servo or controller.

HOW FAST WAS I GOING, OFFICER? If you still have no engagement, there may be an issue with the cruise control's speed input. Modern cars use information from the ABS's vehicle speed sensor (VSS) because the engine-management computer needs to know road speed. If your Check Engine light is on, the cruise may not work, especially if the VSS is malfunctioning. Older vehicles may use speed information from the speedometer. Aftermarket systems may resort to a ring of magnets clamped to a driveshaft or axle shaft, with a magnetic coil positioned nearby. If the magnets have fallen off or the coil has been smashed by a rock or road debris, there's no speed data for the controller.

URBAN LEGEND The legend has been related to us by all manner of people, including a couple of state police officers. Using the cruise control in rainy or slick conditions will make your car speed up uncontrollably, until you lose control and crash. It's a myth. Engaging the cruise will not make the car speed up. The cruise will attempt to maintain a steady speed. If the wheels lose traction and the car starts to slow down, the cruise will speed up the engine to attempt to accelerate back to the set speed. This will make the drivewheels spin more briskly. The vehicle speed will go slower, regardless of how furiously the wheels spin. If you have a rear-wheel-drive car, the effect is to destabilize the vehicle, and you probably will spin out unless the vehicle regains traction in a reasonable length of time. A front-wheel-drive car with spinning tires will attempt to continue in a more or less straight line--which will make steering control dodgy at best.

Heavy rain or snow makes use of the cruise control inadvisable, but such conditions certainly won't make your car accelerate to ludicrous speeds while you hang on for dear life. If the cruise is engaged and you perceive a loss of traction, the best bet is to tap the brake to disengage the system, and then add just enough throttle to maintain steering until the vehicle slows down to a more appropriate speed.

WHERE'S THIS THING?: Speed sensor may be buried under the dash near speedo head.

SUCK IT UP: The vacuum reservoir provides an added source of vacuum for those long uphill grades.

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Cruise Control "Set" No Longer Works

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When I turn my Cruise Control "On" it will light up green on my dashboard, However when I press the "set" button to set the speed nothing happens. It was working fine a few weeks ago. Could it be a fuse? If so what fuse? Any other ideas on how I can fix this? 2011 Sonata  

There are certain signals sent to the engine PCM that will prevent the cruise control from setting. Your problem is unlikely to be a blown fuse and more likely to be one of those inputs to the PCM that is preventing it from working. The input from the brake pedal seems to be the most common one to cause problems so the first thing to do is make sure your brake lights are working properly. If that checks out OK have the engine scanned to see if there are any trouble codes logged that might explain why the cruise control isn't working.  

Like Autospark said, I have seen a some that the brake switch prevented the cruise control to engage.  

My cruise control was not working I had a remote starter put on that wouldn't work. He found that the led tail light bulbs i put in would not let the remote work, it was sending a 6volt signal to the brake probably screwing up the cruise also since it thought the brake was on. not enough to light the brake lights but enough to stop the remote start from working. I changed to regular bulbs and now the remote is working. going to check the cruise control later  

It happened to me, and it was faulty CC switch. Mine got replaced under warranty.  

Where is the cc switch  

We replacing Cruise switch assembly pretty regular, we keep part on shelf... TIP : lightly press "SET".. dont "spank" the button, that why they stop working..  

videoexpert said: When I turn my Cruise Control "On" it will light up green on my dashboard, However when I press the "set" button to set the speed nothing happens. It was working fine a few weeks ago. Could it be a fuse? If so what fuse? Any other ideas on how I can fix this? 2011 Sonata Click to expand...

I have the same issues on my 2011 Sonata GLS w/ 90k miles. The Set button will come on sometimes after repeatedly pushing it and the Cancel button. If it does set, the Cancel button is never working. The On/Off button is the only one that works all the time. It will disengage if I press the brake pedal. So I see the Phillips screw underneath the switch, it was a bitch to unscrew, but finally got it out tonite. I was expecting the switch would easily come out. NOPE, something is still holding it in! I can pry it up just a bit, but can't tell what is still holding it. What's the deal? Anybody know? I am ready to buy a new switch if I can get the **** thing out. About $80 list and I can get it for about $52. Someone mentioned inputs to the PCM. My SRS red warning light has been on for a few months, I have not taken the time to take it to the dealer, could this be causing the cruise control problem?? I sort of doubt it. And yes, I did try blowing compressed air into the switch. No help.  

I looked at a previous PDF attachment and now see you have to take the airbag module AND the steering wheel off to unplug the cruise control switch. Too much for me, hate to see what the dealer will charge!  

I had similar problems started after dealer performed brake pedal recall. They had to replace brake switch as a part of the recall.  

I'm having this issue but i found that if i turn the lights off the cruise works however I've noticed that my brake lights don't work when lights are on. So turning the lights off makes cruise engage but turning them on makes it disengage fine for day time driving but a huge issue for nighttime driving  

Cbrownsonata said: I'm having this issue but i found that if i turn the lights off the cruise works however I've noticed that my brake lights don't work when lights are on. So turning the lights off makes cruise engage but turning them on makes it disengage fine for day time driving but a huge issue for nighttime driving Click to expand...

Sounds like it's figured out, but I'll throw in another idea. My cancel button is sticky. I can turn on no problems, but set works only 75% of the time. Usually massaging or pressing cancel a few times, then pressing set solves my problems. When it starts being more troublesome I may dig into the whole assembly.  

Thank you guys so much for your suggestions!  

Started out with warning light on dash display for brakes which worked just fine and all seemed well when checked out. Then moved on to cruise not working, on but not being able to set it. Turned out to be the "clockspring" or something like that. Its on the steering column and a whole mess of stuff connects through it. Several hundred dollars to the dealer later, all is well. Except my wallet.  

Does the set work if you manually switch the headlamps on?  

I have a 2014 Sonata Limited that is having intermittent issues with the cruise control. The issue first appeared about 2 years ago. Have found that sometimes I can get the Cruise to "set" by pressing the "Cancel" button hard a few times.(But sometimes pressing any or all of the cruise buttons does nothing.) If pressing the cruise buttons doesn't work- I literally ball my right hand into a fist and bang hard & sharply on the steering wheel to the right of the Cruise Control buttons a couple of times. I can't tell you what it does- BUT IT WORKS- and then I can set my cruise control again. I use my cruise control often, and sometimes it'll work fine for a day, and sometimes it works for a couple of weeks before I have to do this again. But as far as I'm concerned- this problem is obviously an issue with the switch in the steering wheel. Been doing this for over 2 years, and getting away with it. It may be a little on the Neanderthal side- but still much cheaper & easier than taking it to a dealer for diagnosis and repairs. Bought my Hyundai brand new in 2014. Have taken good care of it, but have had(and am having) several issues with it. As a result I won't be buying another Hyundai. This kind of stuff shouldn't be happening. Never had these tricky tacky cheesy malfunction issues with my previous car.(a Toyota Camry)  

Mine was doing the same but I was able to get it to work by getting the speed above 25 and turning cruise on and then tapping the set button real fast and watch the dash next to were it says cruise and seen the set indicator come on. And I had to keep tapping it alot but after maybe 5 or 6 times tapping it till set light came on it now comes on with just one tap.  

What I have discovered with my CC buttons intermittency is the cable connector at the top of the steering wheel under the airbag is oxidized and not making good contact. If I take it apart and pull the plug off and clean the pins a little with a dry piece of magic eraser, it will start working 100% again for a short while. Then slowly gets worse. A sharp rap on the top of the airbag when driving usually resolves the issue until I have to take it apart and clean again. I've thought about using some dielectric gel on it to see if it will slow the oxidation, but haven't yet. I destroyed my original CC buttons with a cleaner that didn't like the insides of it, so what I have now is a used one. Might replace it and see if it is wearing there; it is really easy to do.  

When buttons on the steering wheel stop working or become intermittent then it is probably the clock spring but you may have to wait for the air bag light to go on before you can get it fixed for free.  

krudawg said: So if anyone else is having CC problems, start by replacing the clock spring. Click to expand...

Simple trouble shooting is a whole lot cheaper than throwing parts at the problem.  

Yeah I agree. Best of luck with that  

I had it replaced on my 13 under warranty, but on my 14 I put too many miles on it so I have been doing the cancel button and then set for a few years now. Too cheap. Also for a while, when I hit the cruise on button it will often act like I'm hitting the Trip button on the buttons at the lower right of the steering wheel and it goes through those options until cruise finally turns on. 🤣 Ain't CAN great?  

krudawg said: I've had a cruise control issue with my 2011 Elantra. Based on reading this forum, I first replaced the Brake Light Switch. It did not fix the CC. Then I replaced the CC Switch assembly on the steering wheel; still not fixed. Then I took it to the dealer to replace the clock spring (it was replaced for free because Hyundai extended to warranty to 15 years). Voila! Cruise Control works now. So if anyone else is having CC problems, start by replacing the clock spring. Click to expand...

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Cruise control light on but won't engage

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Hi DA, I have a 05 V6 and noticed this morning that my cruise control wasn't working. I can turn it on ( light turns on in the dash) but cannot set it. I pulled over and suspected the brake switch. Seems like something was won't because it wasn't locking the shifter if you don' t press on the brake. So I switched them out and I can hear my shifter locking/unlocking as well as feeling it. Got back on the road and the cruise control is still not working... I stopped again and noticed that now my shifter unlocks when I turn on my low beam ( is it supposed to do that???). Should I tighten the brake switch and have less play? Is there a connector in the engine that could have gotten loose? I checked my brake lights, and they are working fine, same for the horn ( they are on the same fuse I believe). Thanks for your help guys!  

Have you replaced your brake lights with LEDs? I've had this problem before and found two different causes. One being cheap LEDs. When you turn the parking lights on, the power back feeds through the LED bulb to the brake harness and therefore the car thinks you are pressing your brake. I've also had a bad trailer wire harness cause this. In any case, you are getting back feed from the parking lights. Try running the cruise control without using any lights. If it works, then turn on your lights and see if is disengages. If so, then there is where you need to start looking.  

Well, that' s EXACTLY what I did the day before... replaced all of my taillights with led... I will try to turn on the cruise control with the lights off tomorrow, and see if it works!  

So I got my ZEVO led that on eBay for about 15$ today in my car and the brake lights work fine now. No more problem of brake lights staying on as the headlights are on and with the shifter lock. THANKS!! Switched my blinkers to led at the same time with a relay that I modified (0.12 ohm resistor). One problem still remains however... the cruise control still doesn't turn on (Light's on the dash lights up, but can't turn it on). I will try moving the brake dip switch off the way in. Would disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it change anything? I'll pull out that CC switch to take a look at it in last resort. -Dan  

Little update... So, even after installing those led brake lights, my CC still doesn't work (Main turn's on but can't set it). I've checked the brake switch, checked all 4 terminals on it. I pick up a CC switch in a junk yard, and switched it in after removing the airbag... I will recheck my fuses for the 100th time. Is there any relays that I should try to replace? The Cruise Control section is at page 1807 in the service manual, if anyone is kind enough to take a look...  

Put the regular lights back in. I did replace a couple of my rear lights with some LEDs I got from Walmart, and they haven't caused any issues with my cruise.  

I did that. I haven't done that while resetting the ECU though, will try that today since I haven't reinstalled my airbag on the steering wheel. Could I have fried something in the ECU?  

Fixed it!!! UPDATE: I fixed the problem. I was working in my car yesterday and decided to give it a last shot and switch out the brake switch with the extra one I had before bringing it in the dealer this Friday. I have done the same thing many times before, but it did not solve anything. I made sure this time to check the 4 terminals of the switch with a multimeter. While doing that and many small things inside, I forgot the key on the ignition with my running lights on overnight. The result is that I had to jump my car this morning. And on my commute, at my big surprise, the cruise control is working again! I suspect that it was the brake switch ( the one I previously had worked, but was kinda funky. The amount of travel of the pin in order to close the brake circuit vs the cruise control circuit was in a very different. The one I have now in my car closes the brake and CC circuit at about the same amount of travel) if that made sense at all?? Draining the battery probably also reset the ECU ( which I have also done before trying to fix this). I hope this thread will be helpful to someone having the same problem I had in the future.  

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Cruise control light goes on but will not set

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Hi all, I just recently purchased a 2006 Nissan Xterra 5 speed automatic, it has cruise control but the switch does not seem to set, the light displays that cruise control is on and that is it, it will not set a speed, the tpms light is also on but I am not sure if that would be related. Does anyone know how to fix? any help would be greatly appreciated  

Cruise control doesn't turn on

We had a Gen 2 Xterra have a Crankshaft Position Sensor fail and one of the symptoms leading up to the failure was the cruise control started acting up and not performing normally. The computer is using the crankshaft sensor reading to determine the vehicle engine speed and use that for controlling speed. Crankshaft sensor code is 335.  

It's been a month now. Have you made any progress? We like to hear the success stories if there is one to be told.  

Yes I did figure it out my crankshaft position sensor went out so I switched out both the sensor itself and the fuse and now it appears to be working just fine. what was strange was that my crank would only seem to fail and cut power when the cruise control switch was on, luckily one part seemed to have fixed both issues.  

Good news! I believe in the end we find out that the crankshaft position sensor is used in the control of far more things than we might expect.  

Hi friends I have a 2002 Xterra. It has the same symtom: Cruise control goes on (green light), but when to try set "Coast Set", the Set light doesn't come on. Question: Do I have the same problem as described above? And where is the crankshaft position sensor located? Where to do you switch out the sensor and the fuse? Thank you, Tom  

The original post was regarding a Gen2 Xterra and yours is a Gen1 so the crankshaft sensor is in an entirely different orbit. Your sensor is in the distributor on your engine and the Gen2 has an entirely different motor with no distributor and the crankshaft sensor looking directly at the flywheel ring gear at the rear of the motor. Beware of the oxygen sensor codes pushing you directly in to buying new ones. Many times those codes are downstream symptoms of air/fuel issues upstream from those sensors.  

Let's get a bit more info, if you don't mind. Engine, trans, 2WD or 4WD... Your 2002 is a Gen1. The Gen1 had 2 flavors: 2000 and 2001 are the original Gen1 with square headlights, then for 2002-2004 Nissan offered a supercharger option, so they bumped the middle of the hood, changed the headlights to the roundy style that you have. This updated version is commonly referred to as Gen1.5 because it's still a Gen1 underneath it all, but with some important changes. All of that is to help you understand that you do not have the same CKP sensor circuitry as the Gen2 4.0L engines. It might be the same sensor (I don't know one way or the other), but it's used in a wholly different engine and electronics package. Do you have LED bulbs in the brake lights? If so, please share an image or two of them. I ask this because I experienced my CC disengaging whenever I'd use the blinker to change lanes. I finally discovered that the El Cheapo LED bulbs I was using were bleeding just enough REVERSE voltage through some of the compromised LED chiplets on the bulb that it would cancel the CC. I replaced them first with the original incandescent bulbs, and then with a pair of Sylvania LEDs. The situation is now corrected!  

Hi MeToo Many thanks for your answer! Attached please find some fotos. Are these fotos sufficient to answer my question? It is a 4 WD. Another (stupid) question: This is a 3.3L Xterra, am I right? I need to buy oxygen sensors, seems to be difficult but on ebay are some offers. Best Regards, Tom  

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The photo with the broken lens tells me that you are not using LEDs. But it also reveals that the bulbs are open to water intrusion, which can lead to anomalies like you're experiencing. The photo with the headlight just confirms that yours is a 2002-2004 model. None of the photos tell us what engine you have. But since it's 4WD, it has to be a V6 3.3L. I doubt it's the SC version, though. I can't speak to your need for O2 sensors.  

Thank you! That means I will have to check for the sensor in the distributor, correct? Regards  

I have Gen2 xterra's but information from this forum and the Field Service Manual shows the sensor in the distributor with the round slotted disc that rotates to create optical clocking for the ECM.  

Hi MeToo The bulbs are open, yes, but only since a few days. The symptom was already there before this little incident.  

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CRUISE 'SET' light won't stay on!

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05 Spectra, manual transmission. CRUISE light comes on, SET light comes on, but as soon as I release the button, SET will go away. Interesting thing, though, is that SET light will come on ONLY IF i'm going under 25mph. of course, no actual throttle movement. if I go over 25mph, SET light won't even come on. REALLY confused here........... I guess brake switch and clutch switch are ok because: 1. I can't start engine without depressing clutch pedal 2. Brake light comes on cleaned connection of cruise module as well. didn't help. Thanks in advance, MK  

Welcome to the forum. Is the cruise light coming on when you push in the button? I assume that the cruise control is not engaging and not just the indicator light not coming on.. The cruise should be able to be set right down to 24mph according to my Cerato manual, which is the opposite to what is happening on your car. So the set light should not be able to be lit under 24 mph but should set over 24 mph. It says in my manual that the set won't engage until at least 2 seconds after the cruise is turned on, maybe you are trying to set too quickly..  

You're exactly right. (and thanks for welcoming me!) I notice there is two lights, CRUISE and SET. CRUISE light comes when I turn it on, and SET is supposed to be on when the cruise is actually engaged, right? Generally, SET isn't on under normal circumstances (over 25mph). I suspected the button being bad, or other switches that disengage cruise, but I recently realized that SET light does come on when I press set button while going under 25mph. So button works I guess; You're right, it IS opposite of what's happening. So I assume speed sensor signal is being received correctly. (or some type of signal is being received anyway.) I am sure that I'm not engaging too quickly,, I even replaced my fog lights that didn't help. What should I do now??  

You can actually get the set light to light when holding the lever down with the ignition on but the engine not running but as soon as you let the switch go it will go off. I tried it on my Cerato. Just to make sure your cruise is not engaging drive at over 25 mph turn on the cruise control by pushing in the button on the levers end, wait over 2 seconds and then push the lever down to set. If the set light doesn't come on and stay on that should mean the cruise hasn't engaged. If the set light stays on cruise should be engaged. If the cruise and set light still don't work you may have to get an auto electrician to check out the switch in set position to see if the switch is faulty. Best of luck.  

pulsar86 said: You can actually get the set light to light when holding the lever down with the ignition on but the engine not running but as soon as you let the switch go it will go off. Click to expand...

I would tend to let an auto electrician have a look at it, they come across these things all of the time and might know the cause.  

I am the same with my cars. Have you tried on www.kiatechinfo.com it is free to register and you can access manuals in the shop and wiring diagrams in the etm sections. The site has heaps of helpful stuff. You may be able to figure out the sensor lay out off the wiring schematics.  

Wow, nice! Thank you! I will try and will post if I find a fix!  

This happened to me and I took it to the dealer. They replaced the brake pedal cruise disengagement sensor. It's the sensor that turns the cruise off when you hit the brakes. They replaced it under warranty no questions asked.  

so brake sensor you mean,, I wonder how to test the thing? but I will take a look at it! Thanks!  

I doubt it, but worth trying... If it was the brake switch, you would not be able to see stop lights working, nor see SET light on at all. When you activate CC below 25, does it maintain speed? What happens when you press brake? Does it cancel CC?  

The brake light works, including third one. No, it does not maintain speed as the SET light will turn off as soon as I let the switch go. Let me try pressing brake while SET light is on..  

My brakes lights worked just fine. It's a separate sensor. Part # 93810-38110 SWITCH ASSY-STOP LAM  

Update: SET light goes off (which turns on when holding the trigger AND only below 25) when brake is pressed, and comes back when released. So I presume the brake switch is ok? All these evidences lead to bad module, maybe? (which I do NOT hope..)  

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cruise light on but won't engage

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Are your brake lights on all the time? The brake switch will deactivate the cruise, so if it's not adjusted right or broken, the cruise will not work.  

I checked the switch and it seemed okay. Also lights go on and off like their supposed to. Any idea how to check for correct adjustment on switch?  

Lights going on and off, shows that the switch adjustment is correct. What about power to the servo? Good luck!!!  

I guess that will be my next step. Does the light operating in the dash show the set switch is operating correct?  

Either vacuum leak, cable too loose, or brake release switch would be my best guesses. Haven't looked at the TJ but on most vehicles the brake release switch is separate from the brake light switch, or combined but has dual circuits (one for lights and one for cruise) and has a vacuum line on it too that physically burps the vacuum from the servo (failsafe see?) Barring that, it may not be seeing the speedo signal so can't set. All the light means is you turned it on and it has power.  

Thanks guys. I'll keep ya posted. This site is awesome!!!  

So what happened? How did you fix the cruise issue? I just has this happen to me. I was driving down the road and my cruise stopped work on my 05 LJ.  

I've done everything but cleaned the ground. Which i have been told is on the fire wall or fender? I have just been driving without it.  

Doubt it.... but it wont turn on unless you going faster than 35mph +  

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Cruise control not setting

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Cruise control

That is about a 1500, not an 1800, way different. Start by listening to your switches. At the front brake put your ear near it & pull slowly, you should hear a double click. At the clutch a single click as you barely move the lever, on the left side remove the chrome cover above the brake (where you check the oil) and push the pedal, another double click.  

Thx~! I've listened & am getting clicks our of hand brake,clutch, foot brake. But (as i understand) the foot brake is 2 switches, so 1 can be working & the other not. That's why I just thought - OK, will check them all w/ multimeter  

Try putting your foot under foot brake and lifting up to see if it will set then. Also push out with clutch handle to see if that helps getting cruise to set. There is a brass bushing on clutch lever that wears out, and is replaceable. I usually get 80 to 90K miles out of those. Chrome after market brake and hand levers also cause problems. gumbyred  

Believe it or not, this bike only has 18K miles. Think I'll try WD40 on the foot brake first since that's an easy step. Will also try wiggling the clutch lever & lifting the brake lever. Wish there was just an accessible connector to check w/ multimeter. Nothing easy ...  

Dang! I have to pull the shelter? What a PITA!!! Looks like the wires also go under the shelter w/o any accessible connectors.  

with that little use, there is going to be some rust on the pivots, use a lot of something and flush out all the pivots.  

The cruise on an 1800 seldom fails and when it does it's almost always the adjustment of the switch on the foot brake or aftermarket levers. I feel bad that I only have 93,000 miles on my 2010.  

OEM levers; I'll start by cleaning the foot brake switch Yeah - bought this from a guy 4 or 5 yrs ago w/ only 16K miles after 10 yrs. Thought that was so weird Now I've had the thing and only put a few K more. How weird am I ??????????  

Does the bike look like it was taken care of? Not left in the weather? I haven`t even owned a bike with only18K miles on it for 15 years now. You need to get out and RIDE. gumbyred  

Yep. In perfect shape And yes, have to ride. Longest trip was only 3 hours! Had a GL1100 for a decade before, but it was a relic I enjoyed for nostalgic reasons & never took it far. Heck - 4 yrs ago had metal knee put in & got a scooter to get around ... put a few K miles on THAT little thing! Something seriously wrong with me!  

Something no one has asked is; do the brake lights work as they're supposed to?  

Just to be sure, you are saying the cruise on light works but the cruise set light does not turn on and the cruise will not take hold. Is that correct?  

Correct. Also, yes, brake lights work properly  

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Cruise Control Won't Set

Discussion in ' 2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015) ' started by DerkWehler , May 2, 2013 .

#1 DerkWehler [OP] New Member

Greets all: Have a 2008 Tacoma and the cruise control quit working. The light comes on but it won't set. This was shortly after changing the oil, but I do not think I damaged anything (the easiest car I have ever done oil change on). Not really a mechanic, just looking for a simple solution if one exists. All I have really done is check the 20 amp fuse by the battery (good), but I figure if it were a fuse the "Cruise" light would likely not come on.  

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Cruise Control not working

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I have a 2000 Dodge with cruise control. I have been having a lot of problems with powersteering so i replaced the pump. I had to take the battery off for obvious reasons, Then after putting everything back together my cruise control will come on but not set? any ideas what could have happend?  

A lot of the time it is vacuum related. Check 4x4 (if you have it) and the blend door. All of these run off of vacuum. If those aren't working it's time to start tracing lines.  

I 2nd the vacuum line. If your AC won't blow out the front vents that what it is...easy fix.  

All of those these are working perfect... Is this bad? Or a good sign ?  

I have the same issue! my 4x4 works fine, all HVAC controls, and my problem happened right after I replaced my power steering. My PS works too. I don't have wiper fluid or cruise ever since I replaced the pump. Ive been stumped.  

The 2nd gen trucks came with either vacuum controlled or electronic controlled cruise control. Determine which one you have. The vacuum controlled versions have a vacuum pod located under the drivers side battery which can be affected by battery acid corrosion. The line to it has been known to have formed a small leak from acid eating the plastic line. Also, dont forget the fuses and relays..... :thumbsup:  

I've seen a few cases where battery acid had ate the vacuum line off, or ate holes in the cruise control module.  

But why would it work totally fine before we replaced the pump? Then the next day suspiciously doesn't work.  

I agree with Astang. Literally everything worked fine then I replaced the Powersteering pump and boom the cruise now wont set.  

You probably accidentally disconnected or broke a vacuum line.  

Curious if your cruise light still came on when it wasn't working? I have no light when on button depressed. Don't see where there is a fuse  

On my truck, I had everything working fine one day and then the next the cruise would set but not hold. Ended up finding a very brittle and broken vacuum line that ran from the TPS assembly to the cruise canister. Repaired line and everything worked normally. I had just been in that area a week before when I replaced the VP pump and lift pump.  

There is no vacuum diagram that I've seen for these trucks. That said, vacuum comes from the pump, goes along the firewall into the cab. I had no vacuum at the switch and simply ran a line thru the drivers firewall to the switch. I'll go back to stock when I have to pull the dash out for something else. Until then, everything works fine. The FSM has information for testing vacuum at the switch on the dash. If 4x4 works, you have vacuum there. If it doesn't work, look and see whether the vac line is off down below. If all worked before changing the PS pump, you knocked a line off. If it isn't obvious, get your vacuum gauge out and start tracing. You should probably have 18-20" of vacuum. Most vac pumps are set up to mimic a gas engine so the same parts can be used in diesels as are in the gassers.  

Check the 90 degree fitting at the back of the cruise module. There is a hard line that comes from the firewall that connects to the rubber 90 at the back of the module. When installing the pump it's easy to tug on these lines and you may have cracked something.. You may have also pulled the hard line loose from the tee on the firewall. Your 4wd and AC valve can still work with a small vacuum leak at the cruise module. I know that for a fact. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N915A using Tapatalk  

Can someone tell me if there is a light in the dash that comes on when cruise is turned on? Its a new to me truck and I can only assume like any other vehicle, that there is. Mine is working now, but still no light.  

The word "cruise" should come on in the bottom left of the same indicator window that shows the mileage of the truck.  

My problem was a vacuum line at the top of the firewall. My cruise light would come on but not set. There was a T connection that was disconnected and I reattached it and cruise works fine now. I had no other problems like 4x4 not working so check those lines!  

I ran into this issue in my old silverado a while back. It ended up being the brake switch. Not sure if these trucks are setup similarly but when you press the brake, it deactivates cruise control. Just a thought if none of the advise above works.  

I have an 01, it has no cruise indicator light, I had the guys at a shop check and they said it must be electronic as there was no vacuum module on the right side. I guess the next step is to dig out the manual and start chasing the wiring down and find the fuse or circuit breaker that feeds it. Needed another winter project anyway.  

So are you saying when you set the cruise you do not see the light come on? Your 01 cruise control is vacuum controlled, there is no question on that, it is. But if you are not seeing the cruise indicator turn on when you turn it on, then yes there is something wrong with either the steering wheel buttons, clock spring, wiring etc.  

That makes sense, Looks like something to tackle when I get bck up north and get the Tacoma on the road. Thanks  

Katoom is probably correct above. Check the line where it comes of the top of the vacuum pump and work you way up from there and look for connections separated or broken plastic line.  

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Poisonous Potato Update

The (s)mashing update you always asked for!

Imagine being a potato. Now imagine being the potato’s less popular sibling who didn’t inherit the tuber-licious looks the rest of your family possesses. What’s worse is – you're facing the impossible decision of what to do with all this starch? Since neither French fries nor couch potato sat right with you, there's only one option remaining. Congratulations friend, you’re a poisonous potato. 

For years, Minecraft’s own toxic tuber has been neglected and underappreciated, lacking both purpose and usefulness. For years, you – the community – tried to highlight this, working tirelessly to bring it to our attention and literally begging us for more functionality. As of today, your concerns are a thing of the past. 

Mojang Studios is proud to release our most well-boiled update to date that will add so much usability to the poisonous potato that even tater-haters will become devoted spud-buds. The Poisonous Potato Update – rich in both carbs AND features! You asked. We delivered. Or maybe you didn’t ask, but we delivered anyway? In any case, it is HERE! 

GET THE SNAPSHOT UPDATE 

Snapshots are available for Minecraft: Java Edition. To install the snapshot, open up the Minecraft Launcher and enable snapshots in the "Installations" tab. You can even play the snapshot on your own Java Realms together with your friends! 

Remember, snapshots can corrupt your world, so please back up your world and/or run the snapshot in a different folder from your main worlds.  

-> DOWNLOAD THE CROSS-PLATFORM SERVER JAR

Poisonous potato add-on.

The roots of the poisonous potato run deep within Minecraft and extends far beyond Java Edition. Therefore, it should come as no surprise that the tuber-lar sensation has spread its influence to Bedrock Edition as well. With Jigarbov’s Poisonous Potato add-on , you’ll be able to experience the joy of the poisonous potato the way it was always intended – through blocks and furniture to weapons and armor.

-> GET THE ADD-ON

Gameplay & features.

• Poisonous potatoes – LOTS of poisonous potatoes! 
• A few normal potatoes too! 
• The homeland of all potato kind
• Five spud-tastic biomes: fields, hash, arboretum, corruption, and wasteland 
• Experience the life of a potato – from its inception as a raw potato picked from the fields, through cooked hash browns, to its eventual decay
• Local weather with a-mashing effects 
• Added the Colosseum, home to the lord of potato kind... 
• A whole sack of a-peeling new blocks 
• Rich in Vitamin C, Vitamin B6, and Niacin! 
• No new mineral blocks. No need! The blocks themselves contain minerals: Potassium, Magnesium, and Iron! 
• Added the frying table – everyone asked for it, so we added it. It fries potato things. It's a really nice model! 
• Added functionality to the fletching table. You can now fletch toxic resin into more refined versions of the resin. 
• Added impurities because purity is overrated 
• Added a whole bunch new gadgets that will tune your poisonous potato game up to eleven! 
• You get it by now. They’re all poisonous potatoes... 

TECHNICAL CHANGES 

• The flux capacitor integration now synergizes with quantum voxelization, which enables a 360-noscope enhancing real-time RTX terrain-rendering nightshade multibox spectrum acceleration while optimizing transdimensional entity synchronization for seamless vitelotte-king edwards-russel burbank experiences! 

WHAT HAPPENS IF I DOWNLOAD THE UPDATE?

Then you will be the proud owner of the file that contains the update. 

WHAT CAN I EXPECT IN TERMS OF GAMEPLAY?  

Poisonous potatoes. We hope this article has made that perfectly clear. 

I DON’T BELIEVE I ASKED FOR THIS UPDATE, IF I’M HONEST. 

You might not have – but your brain (or maybe belly) did! 

ARE THERE CURRENTLY ANY OTHER CARB-BASED UPDATES IN THE WORKS? 

Great question! Please look forward to the Radioactive Rice Update and Toxic Taro Update in the very distant future! 

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