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UK Travel Planning

9 Essential UK Train Travel Tips (from an expert)

By: Author Tracy Collins

Posted on Last updated: March 28, 2024

Are you planning to travel the UK by train and are a little nervous or unsure of using an unfamiliar rail system? In this article, we share 9 UK Train Travel Tips for anyone planning to travel by train in the UK. Essential reading to make the most of your UK rail adventure.

Train travel is easy/ everyone knows how to plan a rail trip/ the UK is only small – I have heard this said before but is it true? Whilst the UK is smaller than many countries its rail network is vast and for the inexperienced UK traveller or train traveller, there are quite a number of areas that can prove a challenge.

This cheat sheet consists of 9 tips to train travel in the UK which will help make your UK train travel experience a calmer and more rewarding experience . 

I served in the UK rail industry for over 25 years with many job roles ranging from my apprenticeship in train manufacturing and project management to working in railway control.  These many roles gave me an in-depth insight into the industry and how good planning with flexibility can overcome many rail travel obstacles.

Doug Collins on the Caledonian Sleeper

In addition, as a hobby, I have travelled extensively over the entire network of train lines through England, Wales, Scotland and some in Ireland and have a great deal of experience in travelling through all seasons of the year , days of the week and times of the day.

With so many beautiful cities and towns to visit in the UK taking a day trip on a train can be a great way to see more of the country and tick off UK bucket list destinations. Or why not plan an entire itinerary travelling the UK by trail? My best of Britain itinerary by rail includes 14 days of sightseeing Britain by train and takes you across 3 countries and 7 top destinations.

Though the UK is relatively small there is 9, 824 miles of train track (15,811 km) tightly packed in some areas, such as London, meaning an advanced plan of travel is an absolute must.

As well as this cheat sheet we recommend reading our Guide to UK Train Travel ebook which includes detailed information about ticket options, passes, 12 done-for-you UK rail itineraries plus information about services such as the Eurostar and Caledonian Sleeper.

For more information about our ebook click this link

UK train travel book cover

1 – Ticket and Pass Travel Tips

2 – doug’s tip – railway station travel, 3 – doug’s tip  – luggage/baggage., 4 – doug’s tip  – seasonal travel, listen to the uk travel planning podcast episode 2 – introduction to uk train travel with doug collins, 5 – doug’s tip – accessibility, 6 – doug’s tip – station and/or on-board wifi/charging points, 7 – doug’s tip – refreshments., 8 – doug’s tip – toilets etc, 9 – doug’s tip – safety, enjoy your uk train travel adventure, 9 uk train travel tips.

UK booking office at a train station

Cost/Options

This is constantly an area that can be problematic and cause confusion/stress for many train travellers in the UK, whether first time or regular train travellers. 

With the knowledge of a few facts, the experience can be made a little easier to plan and understand.

The UK passenger railway network service comprises of over 20 private railway companies that ‘aim’ to work as one to ensure passengers can buy the best ticket fare available when they chose to buy the ticket and when they want to travel.

  • Different railways companies run trains on the same railway line.
  • Tickets/passes can be bought direct from each specific train company or from national rail sale websites.
  • Tickets/passes can still be bought from railway stations, from either ticket offices or ticket machines on the day of travel or in advance, usually up to 12 weeks in advance.
  • 3 types of fares generally available include Anytime, Off-Peak and Advance. Each has its own merits 

Sign for tickets in a train station in England with a hand pointing to the ticket office

Doug’s TIP:

Consider all ticket/Pass options that best suit your travel plans

(Read – 13 Tips to save money on rail travel in the UK )

This includes:

  • Plan your rail itinerary carefully. This will give you the information needed to decide if a rail pass such as a BritRail Pass , Global Eurail Pass , Global Interrail Pass or purchased train tickets are your best option based on duration required, the flexibility of travel and most importantly the cost-benefit option that gives value of money.
  • Best to keep a form of ID with you also as this may need to be presented if your ticket or Pass has your name printed on.   
  • Fines and penalties can be given for not having a valid ticket or pass. 
  • Ask station or platform staff to check your ticket/pass for you if you need help, in my experience station staff are always willing to help. 
  • Peak travel periods of the day, can be more expensive and busier.
  • Peak travel times can vary between train operators.
  • Can your journey be delayed until a quieter time to travel off peak travel is generally cheaper?
  • Check your train details the day or so before. 
  • Often based on track works or incidents.

Train passing through a train station as seen from a bridge above the platform

Once travel plans and itineraries have been decided and considered, further research around specific train stations is recommended, not just by UK visitors but also UK travellers. This research will help to reduce any possible anxiety on the day of travel if you consider: –

Station Layout

  • Be clear which entrance and/or exit is most suitable for your travel plans.
  • This is relevant for arriving at the station, by whatever means (see item below) or when your train arrives at your destination and you want to leave the station.
  • This could result in a lot of confusion if you cannot find your way around and could mean a lot of unplanned walking, which is not ideal with luggage/baggage, and potentially missing your train.
  • Birmingham for example has three principle railways stations.

Train platform in the UK with a train at the station

Journey to/from the railway station.

  • Plenty of Time – Remember at the station you will have to find your way to the correct platform (or train stop) and if necessary, where to stand to wait for the train (specifically if a seat reservations have been made).
  • Is there a closer station a train could be caught from that is closer to you and thus reducing your journey time to the station?
  • Is the time of the train critical?  A later or earlier train may make getting to the station easier, ie, before or after rush hour traffic or congested public transport likes buses, tube train or even taxi availability.
  • Further train stations away from accommodation may be more susceptible to weather affected delays or traffic congestion.
  • This includes taxi, tram, bus, underground trains, self-drive, river taxi or cruises and of course walking.
  • The time to get to the railway station (or other) is ideally kept to the minimal if possible.   
  • At times we consider moving accommodation for a single, particularly if we have plans to catch an early train the next morning. 

Information boards at a UK train station

How much do I need and how much can I take?

This is a commonly asked question not just applicable to rail travel but also to other modes of transport.  Although no limit in regards to luggage size and weight is enforced on UK trains, the following considerations are essential.

Weight/Size

  • Can you lift/carry all your luggage on to a train?
  • Can you lift and manoeuvre your luggage in/out of luggage racks or overhead storage areas?
  • Consider all modes of transport you may need to carry ALL your luggage with you for, mainly when arriving leaving on holiday or if changing accommodation throughout your trip.
  • Easy said than done, keep your luggage size to a minimum in terms of weight and size.  Smaller bags even when full are easier to lift and stow.
  • Use packing lists and secure day/night bags to keep your essential items with you at all times. 
  • Day Trips- Consider left luggage options at principal train stations if you do not need to carry all your luggage around at all times.  Be certain of the cost before undertaking and what times the facility closes if a staffed facility (may be a locker service).
  • Consider a service such as “Send My Bag” who will collect and courier your bag to your destination. Certainly worth considering if you have large, heavy suitcases.

Pickering train station

Travellers to the UK sometimes forget about the UK seasons , not just the UK temperature variations. Consideration is also required for the time of the year you are planning to travel to the UK. 

Depending on specific travel intentions based around date-specific events the number of daylight hours can vary hugely throughout the year, i.e from summer to winter months or Christmas and also to a lesser degree from the south of England to the north of England or Scotland .

Inside York Train station in England

This topic needs to be considered for all individuals in the travel party.  It is important to be familiar with all stations in terms of facilities available to all passengers. For example, from the start to the end of your journey do you require access to?

  • Ramps to enter/ leave a train? – at staffed train stations only
  • Staff assistance to find a platform or to enter/leave a train?
  • Assistance to see/read/hear station announcements and information boards/TV screens. I.e., Arrival/departure boards
  • Mobility assistance to board a train
  • Check National Rail enquiries for accessibility policies for each rail company and to organise assistance as required. Do not leave this until the last minute but if you arrive at the station and need assistance ask the rail staff who are usually happy to help.

Victoria Train station concourse in London

Plan ahead to ensure you can stay connected. Consider the following:

  • Does the station provide free WIFI? 
  • Does the train(s) operator(s) provide free on board WIFI? Checking if they do is on the entire train or just first class or refreshment cars? 
  • Are there free station electrical charging sockets/points available for all? Or only in certain train operator departure lounges?
  • Is there at seat on board charging points on the train?  At all seats on all trains or only certain ones? 
  • IF IN DOUBT – Bring your own battery charging packs and ensure you make your own arrangement to provide your own WIFI access – leave nothing to chance. Are there phone/device charging sockets on board?  Or will you need to provide your own.

Trains at Waterloo station

It I easy to take for granted that refreshments are going to be available throughout our travel.  Experience has shown us that this cannot always be relied upon.   

  • Though most of the larger station does have refreshment facilities the choice of food and drink can be a bit restrictive, even more so on smaller stations, if they have them at all. 
  • On board trains, those do provide a refreshment car, at seat service  or a trolley service(less available now, especially in COVID times) cannot be relied upon, in choice or availability.
  • Station and on-train refreshments may have restricted opening times eg not available on weekends or public holidays.
  • Summary –   Do not assume facilities are provided, where possible provide your own, particularly on longer trips or summer months to keep hydrated.  Many of the larger train stations have supermarkets/shops close to the train station.  If time allows stock up before arriving at the station.   

Toilet sign and emergency hammer on a UK train

Sensitive topic, but practically needs to be considered.  

  • Generally free of charge to use, but best to be prepared with £1 or £2 in coins.
  • Commuter services sometimes do not – particularly on older trains. 
  • The condition and the cleanliness of some of these toilets can be less than ideal.
  • Best to bring your own hand wash/gel with you!  As it is not unusual for the wash facilities to be out of water or have sinks/taps that do not work.
  • Safety- Be safety aware at all times, extra vigilant regarding own luggage/baggage at train stations and on board all trains.  
  • Report concerns to station/train staff or the British transport Police or call 999.
  • Follow COVID safety regulations at all times regarding face coverings and precautions.

Inside a train carriage in the UK

Want to chat about your UK travel plans why not join our UK Train Travel Tips Group on Facebook! Chat to other travellers planning (or recently returned from) their UK vacation.

For more information about the different ways to get around the UK and help with itinerary planning our transportation guide includes tips and practical advice about how to travel the UK by car, train, plane, ferry, bus and more! Read our guide to how far ahead to book for the UK.

You can find more train travel inspiration for the UK our our top 10 train trips to take across Britain plus our 14-day Best of Britain by train itinerary.

UK TRAVEL PLANNING STEP BY STEP GUIDE

Click here for all the practical information and resources you need to help you plan your UK vacation – all your questions answered!

Travelling the UK by train

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Passenger rail travel in the UK – statistics & facts

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Historical national rail passenger journeys in the United Kingdom (UK) 1984-2023

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Train strikes in May 2024: Full list of dates and lines affected

Rail lines are set for disruption in the week following the first May bank holiday as train drivers at 16 rail companies strike on different days.

Thursday 25 April 2024 10:29, UK

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Train drivers will stage a fresh wave of strikes and overtime bans in May, causing disruption to the rail network.

The strikes are part of a long-running dispute over pay.

Members of Aslef union at 16 rail companies will walk out on different days from 7 to 9 May.

Additionally, all members will refuse to work any overtime from 6 May to 11 May.

Here is a full list of the services affected by strikes and when.

Rail strike dates

Tuesday 7 May

Strikes will affect c2c, Greater Anglia, GTR Great Northern Thameslink, Southeastern, Southern, Gatwick Express and South Western Railway.

Wednesday 8 May

Strikes will affect Avanti West Coast, Chiltern Railways, CrossCountry, East Midlands Railway, Great Western Railway and West Midlands Trains.

Thursday 9 May

Strikes will affect LNER, Northern Trains and TransPennine Express.

Overtime ban dates

From Monday 6 May to Saturday 11 May union members will not work overtime.

Overtime bans, an action short of a strike, means some services may not be running or may be reduced as drivers refuse to work their rest days.

People are advised to check before they travel, as some areas may have no service.

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How do strikes and overtime bans affect services?

Strikes tend to mean services on lines where members are participating are extremely affected or cancelled entirely, whereas overtime bans often lead to reduced services.

An underground train pulls into Leicester Square station in central London February 11, 2014. A planned 48-hour strike this week by staff on London's underground rail network which threatened to bring travel misery for millions has been suspended to allow further talks, unions said on Tuesday. REUTERS/Neil Hall (BRITAIN - Tags: POLITICS TRANSPORT BUSINESS EMPLOYMENT)

Are there strikes on the Tube too?

There have been regular strikes on London Underground too recently, and while there aren't any planned walkouts for drivers, customer service managers are set to walk out on Friday 26 April in a dispute over terms and conditions.

There will also be an overtime ban for the customer service managers on the following days:

Monday 29 April

Tuesday 30 April

Wednesday 1 May

Tuesday 2 May

Wednesday 3 May

Thursday 4 May

Friday 5 May

The Transport Salaried Staffs' Association (TSSA) says the action by its members is likely to cause Tube stations to close at the last minute, including on the Saturday following the strike (27 April), while TfL has said on its website "some stations may need to close at short notice".

Despite the warning, a TfL spokesperson has said they aren't expecting significant disruption.

This action follows strike action taken by the same workers on 10 April, which the TSSA said had a "real impact" with "many stations shut at short notice".

They say they are "extremely concerned" about TfL's 'Stations Changes' proposals.

"We have made it clear that our union will not accept the continued threats to our members' roles, locations, terms, and conditions to stand unchallenged," a TSSA spokesperson said.

"We will continue to take sustained action until London Underground is prepared to negotiate with us in good faith."

Commenting on the impending strikes, a TfL spokesperson said: "We are disappointed that TSSA is continuing with this strike action following a consultation process.

"While we don't expect this action will cause significant disruption, we urge TSSA to continue to work with us to help find a resolution.

"There are no planned job losses as part of these vital changes which will improve the service we provide to customers at our stations."

How can I stay in the loop?

You can use the National Rail's journey planner to see when trains are running.

Be sure to check it close to when you plan to travel, as it will be updated regularly.

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Why are the strikes still happening?

Aslef rejected a two-year offer of 4% in 2022 and another 4% this year, saying it is way below inflation, and is linked to changes in terms and conditions.

Aslef said train drivers have not had an increase in salary for five years, since their last pay deals expired in 2019.

The union said after its members voted overwhelmingly in February to continue taking industrial action, it asked the train operating companies to hold talks.

General secretary Mick Whelan said the year-old pay offer of 4% and another 4% was "dead in the water".

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Taking the train in Ireland – what you need to know

Apr 19, 2024 • 11 min read

Iranrod Eireann. Rosslare to Dublin line. Woodenbridge golf course

A train travels along the Rosslare, Wexford to Dublin line in Ireland © Irish Rail

Traveling by train is one of Ireland ’s great, if under-appreciated, pleasures.

It’s a small island and the rail network is limited, so no journey is especially long – but riding the rails across the country is one of the loveliest ways to enjoy the rolling countryside.

Compared to its European counterparts, Irish trains aren’t especially spectacular, but this is a country that doesn’t need high-speed or sleeper trains: you roll along at a maximum of 160km/h (99mph) and before you know it you’re on the other side of the island.

The particular nature of Irish demographics has shaped train travel in Ireland: with around a quarter of the population clustered in the greater Dublin region, it makes sense that most train journeys begin or end in the capital. In Northern Ireland the same is true of Belfast .

Irish trains might not be especially quick or super luxurious, but they’re an efficient and eco-friendly way of exploring the island – so long as your explorations are focused on the major cities and towns. Here is our essential guide to train travel in Ireland.

Overhead shot of trains on rails at a depot

The lowdown on rail travel in Ireland

Irish trains are efficient, relatively frequent and usually on time.  Irish Rail/Iarnród Éireann operates the entire network of trains in the Republic, from intercity trains linking the major urban centers to the busy commuter network that services the greater Dublin region.

There are two main lines into the west and three into the south and southwest; spurs off the main lines connect to a host of smaller towns throughout the country. There’s also a line to Belfast, from where  Translink services connect the city with the Antrim Coast and Derry (Londonderry) .

Within the greater Dublin region, a network of commuter services connects the capital with a host of suburbs and dormitory towns in the surrounding counties. Dublin’s coastline between the northside suburbs of Howth and Malahide, and Greystones in County Wicklow is served by DART (Dublin Area Rapid Transport) trains.

There are some notable gaps in the country’s rail network, with no services in counties Donegal , Monaghan and Cavan , and no trains into West Cork . Some towns – like Buttevant in Cork or Annacotty in Limerick – are on the rail line but they’re bypassed as they have no functioning station.

Ireland’s bigger train stations – including Cork , Limerick , Galway , Sligo, Belfast and the two in Dublin – are all pretty well stocked when it comes to picking up supplies and other assorted sundries for your journey. Most other stations will have a small shop.

A train crosses a viaduct below a dramatic cloudy sky

Train tickets are relatively good value

The good news about traveling by train in Ireland is that it is relatively inexpensive compared to train travel in some places, such as the UK, for example. If you buy it online, a standard one-way fare between Dublin Heuston and Kent Station in Cork costs €30–35, and around €55 in first class.

Online is the best place to buy your tickets for train travel in the Irish Republic. Not only do you get the best fares (with savings of up to 50% compared to buying the ticket at the station), but you can purchase your ticket up to 90 days in advance and reserve a seat when you do.

You have the option of collecting your bought ticket from a machine at the station as you’re boarding, or downloading a QR code at the point of purchase. If you wait to buy your ticket at the station, you’ll pay significantly more and have to get there early to queue up at the ticket kiosk.

For travel in Northern Ireland, you’re better off buying the ticket at the station as only a limited number of tickets are available online. Show up a short time before your intended departure time and just buy your ticket there.

Only a handful of services offer first class, but upgrading is relatively inexpensive. On average, expect to pay around €20–25 more to sit in first. There are three kinds of first class service on Irish trains. CityGold is on direct Dublin to Cork services, and includes an onboard host and a complimentary newspaper on selected early morning services. The Enterprise service between Dublin and Belfast offers the same, plus a fine breakfast. Premier Class is similar, but is only available on direct services between Dublin and Tralee and some Dublin to Cork trains.

A train runs through a village near the edge of the sea

Some discounts and offers apply

There are discounted fares for children and young adults aged between 19 and 25, as long as they have a valid discount card. Under fives and those aged 66 and over travel for free.

The commuter network in the Greater Dublin area has a fare cap of €6 for travel between the capital and a host of towns in the surrounding counties.

There are two rail passes aimed at visitors. The Trekker Four Day (€88) offers unlimited travel for adults on all Irish Rail services on four consecutive days from the date of issue. The Explorer (adult/child €128/64) provides five days of travel on all services in a 15-day window.

However, before investing in either, be sure that you plan on making the most out of it. The limited rail network means that connections are limited and traveling between some destinations involves backtracking: Cork and Waterford are both on the south coast, but to get from one to the other means travelling to Limerick, while Sligo and Westport are only 140km (87 miles) apart along the west coast, but to go between them by train you’ll have to travel through Dublin – which is on the other side of the country.

In Northern Ireland, the Sunday Fun Day Tracker ticket gives passengers unlimited train travel on a Sunday for £9 (£4.50 for children). Tickets are available from all ticket offices, the mLink ticketing app and from the conductor on the train.

A busy train platform in the evening

These are the busiest times to travel by train

Unsurprisingly, peak times for train travel coincide with busy rush hour periods. Early morning services to Dublin from cities including Cork, Galway and Limerick can be busy, especially if the train is due to arrive in Dublin around the start of the working day. Friday evening trains departing Dublin can also be quite busy. However, as online bookings also include the option of booking a seat, you’ll never have to stand.

The commuter network is busiest on weekdays from 7am to 9am and from 4:30pm to 6:30pm as thousands of people travel in and out of work. You can’t prebook seats on these services, so plenty of people do end up standing. Keep an eye out on changing schedules, especially for weekend and holiday travel, as frequencies diminish.

The train network is limited, but it has some benefits over road travel

There are no rail links to any Irish airport, which means you’re relying on taxis, private cars or buses once you arrive in the country. Irish ferry ports are better connected to rail lines, however, and you can catch trains in Rosslare, Dublin and Larne; there is no rail link to Belfast Port.

If you want to reach the more remote corners of the island, then the Irish rail network is quite limited, and a car will give you the flexibility you need. However, rental fees can be very expensive and fuel is another considerable cost, with the price of unleaded and diesel hovering between €1.75 and €2 a liter. Parking is also pricey in all urban centers, especially Dublin.

Traveling by bus is the cheapest way to get around, but it can be a slow business, as most make lots of stops along the way. There are some direct express services, but they are at the mercy of traffic, which can also add considerable time to a journey compared to traveling by train. Plus, buses don’t have bathrooms, with those traveling longer distances relying entirely on rest stops.

A train passes through autumnal countryside

On board facilities vary depending on the type of train

There are two kinds of Irish trains: InterCity and commuter. InterCity trains are all the same – relatively modern with comfortable seats in standard class and fancier recliners in first – and they travel at speeds of up to 160km/h (99mph). There’s no journey in Ireland that is longer than 2½ to 3 hours. Commuter trains are slightly older, with less comfortable seats; older trains are used on some small-distance spur lines in rural areas and are very basic (facilities include seats and a toilet).

While Ireland’s flagship service is the one between Dublin and Cork, the fanciest train is the Enterprise service between Dublin Connolly and Belfast Lanyon Place, which is a joint venture between Irish Rail and Translink. This train is on a par with most services you’ll find in mainland Europe and first class is the most luxurious of any in the country.

All InterCity trains have three-pin sockets at every row where you can plug in a charger or a laptop. Most commuter trains in the greater Dublin area also have sockets. All trains have toilets and there is a cross-network wi-fi service operated by Irish Rail, but it is patchy and inconsistent. Translink has its own wi-fi network, which is accessible on all bus and rail services in the north, but, like in the Republic, you’re at the mercy of signal strength and contention levels.

Food options are pretty limited. There is a trolley service on the Dublin to Cork service, while the Enterprise between Dublin and Belfast operates a full service menu in a dedicated dining car; first class passengers also get a pretty good breakfast as part of their ticket.

Some trains on the Dublin to Cork route have a “quiet carriage” (usually Carriage G, marked in purple when booking) where the use of phones is prohibited and passengers are encouraged to keep noise levels down.

You can bring a bike on any Irish Rail train for free, although there are some restrictions during busy periods (such as sporting fixtures and concerts). The Dublin to Cork line is the only one to have a dedicated bike storage area; all other InterCity trains have (very) limited bicycle spaces within the passenger compartment – it’s not unusual for only two bikes to be allowed into the compartment, so be sure to book in advance. Bikes are not allowed on commuter and DART services during peak hours – before 10am and from 3:30pm to 7pm Monday to Friday.

A train follows a scenic route by the sea

There are many scenic train routes: here are the best

No matter where you are in Ireland you’re going to find a beautiful landscape or two, but some journeys are worth keeping your eyes wide open for.

Dublin to Sligo

Once you’ve gone past the huge suburban sprawl of the greater Dublin area, the landscapes get quite gentle; beyond Mullingar the train skirts alongside the edge of beautiful Lough Owel. For the best views, sit on the left-hand side of the train.

Dublin to Belfast

The Enterprise service is the best in the country, with the most comfortable seats and the best food options – especially in first class. The train skirts alongside the Irish Sea between Malahide and Balbriggan, so be sure to sit on that side as you travel (on the right-hand side if you’re traveling to Belfast).

Derry (Londonderry) to Coleraine

The Translink service between Northern Ireland’s second city and Coleraine is a stunner, a 40-minute journey along the Causeway Coast that comes with beautiful beaches, huge cliffs and unimpeded views out over the North Sea.

Downpatrick to Inch Abbey

It’s only a 10-minute journey, but the trip from Downpatrick in County Down to the monastic ruins of Inch Abbey takes place in a vintage steam train (or a 1960s diesel train) that chugs its way along the line, over the River Quoile and past the drumlin-specked landscape.

Cork to Cobh

One of Ireland’s most scenic trips is the 25-minute trip from Cork City to the seaside town of Cobh , which takes you along the river (sit on the right for the best views), past marshy Harper’s Island and over the bridges on Lough Mahon and the Slatty Water. You can always stop off at Fota and visit the  wildlife park  there.

Book in advance for wheelchair access to trains

All InterCity services are nominally accessible, but if you do need assistance you will need to book it in advance so that suitable arrangements can be made. This usually means that a conductor will have a ramp ready for wheelchair access, but we have also heard plenty of anecdotal evidence of staff simply lifting a wheelchair onto a train, which depending on the individual can either be a help or an annoying hindrance. Whatever you do, make sure to communicate your requirements before you travel as assistance is not guaranteed otherwise.

For passengers with learning difficulties or any issue where there may be a challenge with communication (such as autism) Irish Rail staff are trained to recognize visual cue cards such as the  JAM card , which inform the interlocutor of the holder’s condition. JAM cards are available online or at mainline train stations in Dublin, Cork, Galway, Limerick, Waterford and Sligo.

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Rooftops view of Turin on a sunny winter day.

My four-day rail and ferry adventure from the UK to Albania

From London to Tirana, via Chambéry’s medieval streets, bustling Bari and Albania’s dynamic capital, this trip across Europe has treats at every turn

M y overriding memories of crossing countries by train, on a trip from London to Albania, are of half-empty carriages and countryside sweeping past windows bathed in the soft orange glow of sunset. I remember cypress trees, red-roofed villages with square churches, farmland in neat strips and row upon row of vineyards.

On my London-Paris-Chambéry-Turin-Bari-Tirana journey over land and sea, there was, for long stretches, little to do. The wifi was patchy. It took a while to adapt to having so much time to simply watch the world go by, travelling through landscapes without having to navigate them.

The biggest stress happened long before I set off, when a landslide not far from the French border with Italy blocked the rail line between Chambéry and Turin, forcing a closure that continues today. Byway, the no-fly operator I had booked with, offered to reroute me through Nice and on to Turin via the Vermenagna valley (with changes in Tende and Cuneo), or book me on the FlixBus service over part of the Mont Blanc massif. I was keen to see Chambéry and the Alps, so I chose the bus.

The writer leans out of the train door. She is wearing a long denim coat and sandals and looks excited.

People seemed surprised when I told them I was travelling overland to Albania. As I gushed about the romance of slow travel by train and sleeper ferry, and my excitement about Tirana, I got comments about being “brave”. I didn’t feel especially brave: all the planning, tickets and hotel bookings were done for me, and friendly help was a WhatsApp call away if needed.

I just had to download the Rail Planner app for my Interrail pass and make sure I was at the right station at the right time (Turin was the biggest challenge: it has four main railway stations and taxis scream between them bearing anxious-looking passengers).

The entire journey took four days. If I did it all again, I’d stay longer in Puglia, the heel of Italy’s boot – and remember to buy my Paris Métro ticket from the cafe on the Eurostar.

Day one: London to Chamb éry

A street with pale pink classical buildings and a statue on a plinth.

First to Paris’s Gare du Nord, then the metro to Gare de Lyon, where I make a beeline for a cafe opposite the station. Noise pervades the pavement tables of Café Terminus, but the cacophony is delightful – an atmospheric place for a citron pressé .

I’m in plenty of time for the train to Chambéry and, excitingly, am on the upper deck. Soon, we break free from the suburbs to trace huge stands of forest. Beyond Lyon begins a ripple of hills, lazy rivers and thickly forested slopes. As evening approaches, it’s all Alpine scenery. I arrive at an almost-empty station and walk to the boutique Hotel des Princes in Chambéry’s old town.

Chambéry has an Italian feel – it was the seat of the House of Savoy before the dynasty moved on to Turin – and its medieval alleys, cathedral and pastel-coloured townhouses are quietly impressive. The 1838 Fontaine des Éléphants sits in the middle of the closest square to the old town, and peeking from the end of every street are the Bauges and Chartreuse mountain ranges. My stay is peaceful and easy.

Day two: Chamb éry to Turin

Misty blue mountain silhouettes.

From Chambéry, the train to Turin would take about 2½ hours, but the bus takes double this. I’m on the top deck again, which is worth it for the sight of misty fingers of early morning light breaking across the mountain ridge. Snoozing backpackers rouse themselves to snap pictures of remote Mont Blanc peaks, before slumbering once more through the tunnel to Italy. In Turin there’s perfume in the air from the blossom-covered trees.

Turin’s grid of long, straight boulevards is testament to its development by the Romans – the redbrick Palatine Gate is another Roman relic – and its grand piazzas, royal palaces and graffitied colonnades date from the city’s Savoy heyday in the 16th and 17th centuries. Today, the number one attraction is the Museo Egizio (Egyptian Museum).

My favourite moments? Ricotta and fig ice-cream on Piazza San Carlo, an aperitivo on off-the-beaten-path Via Sant’Agostino and the towering neoclassical Mole Antonelliana (national museum of cinema). I eat Turin’s famous doughy pizza al padellino (pan pizza) and spend a comfortable night in the eaves of Hotel Urbani in 19th-century residential streets close to the grand Porta Nuova train station.

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Day three: Turin to Bari

A rolling mountain range with cumulus clouds in the sky.

The views from my next train are of cinematic Tuscan scenes. Scorched fields, vines and Italian cypress trees. Neat red roofs and shabby-chic farmhouses. Fluffy clouds cling to hills that Google Maps tells me are the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines. After hours of soothing golden landscapes, the opal-blue Adriatic wallops into view just north of Ancona. Beach bars whip by and cypress trees are replaced with palm trees: I’ve arrived in the south of Italy.

Bari is hands down my favourite stop. The noise, heat and energy as we step off the train in the early evening are joyous. After Chambéry and Turin, Bari feels brash, a little rough around the edges even; a proper port city. The labyrinthine alleyways of the whitewashed old town are almost cliched in their cuteness. Despite the troupes of tightly packed headphone-wearing Americans following guided tours, it somehow manages to retain a tranquil atmosphere.

An elegant old building presides over the port, with its little fishing boats, on a sunny day.

Old ladies yawn from the shade as tourists surreptitiously snap pictures and laundry flutters from balconies. I could stay for ever, but after 24 hours (which includes a lot of pasta, a stroll along the posh promenade to the not-so-posh city beach and a night in an elegant aparthotel, Residence Zodiacus , halfway between the station and the old town), it’s time to board the night ferry to Albania.

Day (and night) four: Bari to Tirana

The mosque is lit in evening sunlight, with mountains in the background.

I arrive at the ferry on foot and am escorted through the car deck to jokes about going in the wrong direction (to Albania, instead of from it). In the early morning I spot a pink sky through the cracked window of my comfy en suite cabin, and head to the top deck to see the sun rise over the distant outline of Albania. Disembarking in the port of Durrës is a bit of a scrum and there’s a bus to the capital waiting, but I opt instead for a five-minute taxi ride to the centre of town and breakfast of pastries and espresso on a dazzling white road lined with boutiques and palm trees. I later regret this though, as the aircon on the grubby public bus I eventually take to Tirana is more tired than I am, and drops me in an urban sprawl miles from the centre.

Tirana itself is a revelation. My hotel, Padam Boutique , is a grand villa with handsome rooms and floor-to-ceiling windows, and there’s striking new skyward architecture on every nearby street. A short stroll away is the landmark Pyramid of Tirana , which stands as a symbol and monument to change (and is fun to climb at sunset). Skanderbeg Square – a jumble of buildings erected on a roundabout at the time of the celebrations to mark the fall of communism in 1992 – is now a pedestrianised, glossy public space. There are nods to Albania’s recent, wretched history behind the iron curtain, of course – the Bunk’Art and Bunk’Art 2 museums, in nuclear bunkers are unmissable – but Tirana and the country are more than just the last century. My journey is done, but it feels like Tirana is just getting into its stride.

The trip was provided by Byway , which offers sustainable travel and accommodation packages across the UK and Europe. Its Alps to Albania trip costs from £679pp

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Train drivers across rail companies to stage fresh strikes in May, Aslef announces

The uk has seen almost two years of industrial action on its railways, with hundreds of millions of journeys cancelled, article bookmarked.

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Fresh travel disruption will impact rail passengers in May as train drivers at rail companies across England will stage a new series of strikes in a bitter, long-running dispute.

Members of the Aslef union will walk out on 7–9 May over pay, and ban overtime for six days from 6 May – the early May bank holiday Monday.

Drivers at c2c, Greater Anglia, Great Northern, Thameslink, Southeastern, Southern, Gatwick Express and South Western Railway will strike on 7 May.

On 8 May there will be strikes affecting Avanti West Coast, Chiltern Railways, CrossCountry, East Midlands Railway, Great Western Railway and West Midlands Trains.

Most operators will not run any trains on strike days.

Although the strikes affect train companies in England, cross-border services to Wales and Scotland are likely to see some knock-on effects.

The union said that after its members voted overwhelmingly in February to continue taking industrial action, it asked the train operating companies to hold talks. Aslef said train drivers have not had an increase in salary for five years, since their last pay deals expired in 2019.

General secretary Mick Whelan said: “It is now a year since we sat in a room with the train companies and a year since we rejected the risible offer they made and which they admitted, privately, was designed to be rejected.

“We first balloted for industrial action in June 2022, after three years without a pay rise. It took eight one-day strikes to persuade the train operating companies [Tocs] to come to the table and talk. Our negotiating team met the Rail Delivery Group [RDG] on eight occasions – the last being on Wednesday April 26 last year.

“That was followed by the Tocs’ ‘land grab’ for all our terms and conditions on Thursday April 27 – which was immediately rejected. Since then train drivers have voted, again and again, to take action to get a pay rise.

“That’s why Mark Harper, the transport secretary, is being disingenuous when he says that offer should have been put to members. Drivers would not vote to strike if they thought an offer was acceptable.”

Mr Whelan said the year-old offer of a 4 per cent pay rise followed by a second 4 per cent increase was “dead in the water”.

The Independent has contacted the Department for Transport for comment.

A spokesperson for the RDG, which represents the train operators, said: “This wholly unnecessary strike action called by the Aself leadership will sadly disrupt customers and businesses once again, while further damaging the railway at a time when taxpayers are continuing to contribute an extra £54m a week just to keep services running.

“We continue to seek a fair agreement with the Aslef leadership which both rewards our people, gives our customers more reliable services and makes sure the railway isn’t taking more than its fair share from taxpayers.”

The latest industrial action comes after thousands of trains were halted during a string of rolling strikes in early April .

Before that, an overtime ban and rolling regional walk-outs hit for nine days from 29 January to 6 February .

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NEWS... BUT NOT AS YOU KNOW IT

Labour wants to renationalise UK’s entire rail network

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Louise Haigh giving a speech next to a train picture.

A Labour government would aim to bring the UK’s entire rail network into public ownership in its first term, the shadow transport secretary has announced.

Louise Haigh said a new national operator named Great British Railways (GBR) would be created if the party is victorious at the next general election expected later this year.

The arm’s-length public body would gradually take control of the tracks as existing private contracts expire.

That means the end of individual franchises such as Avanti West Coast, West Midlands Trains and c2c – as well as those currently run by the British Government, including LNER and the TransPennine Express.

All would eventually be swallowed up by the GBR brand, bringing an end to passenger panic over whether a ticket bought through one operator would work for another.

Labour’s plans would also mean the abolition of Network Rail in an effort to bring tracks and trains together under one banner.

But industry figures and the Conservatives have warned that the move could end up costing taxpayers more in the long run.

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In an exclusive chat with Metro.co.uk, Ms Haigh said: ‘We can create a new body that is single-handedly focused on delivering for passengers and for the taxpayer, because the current model doesn’t work for anyone.

‘It doesn’t work for the taxpayer who is underwriting every single penny that’s spent on the rail.

‘It certainly doesn’t work for passengers who are having to contend with delayed and overcrowded trains on a daily basis.

‘And it doesn’t work for our economy – we’ve lost dozens of days to industrial action over the last couple of years, and record delays and cancellations are really holding back economic growth.’

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ScotRail, which is controlled by the Scottish Government, and the Wales & Borders franchise, operated by the Welsh Government, would continue in their existing forms.

But the devolved administrations would be handed more power on infrastructure under the plans, once Network Rail is dissolved.

What happened the last time rail was nationalised?

The UK railway network was originally taken into public ownership in 1947, as part of Prime Minister Clement Attlee’s flurry of nationalisation which also resulted in the birth of the NHS.

British Rail operated for almost 50 years, which included the massive slashing of routes under the notorious Beeching cuts of the 1960s.

Through the 1970s and 1980s, it became something of a national punchline, with comedians poking fun at its unpleasant food and unreliability.

When was British rail privatised?

A programme of privatisation took place under John Major between 1994 and 1997, and Tony Blair decided not to reverse that process when Labour regained power.

However, the old company lives on through the iconic British Rail double arrow logo, which is still used to symbolise the railway on signs across the country.

The big operational decisions for GBR would be made by rail experts picked from the existing industry, rather than by civil servants or government officials, Ms Haigh said.

She added: ‘There’s brilliant people making brilliant innovations all the time and trying to do the right thing for passengers. But because the system is so complex, it hampers those efforts and prevents them being delivered.

‘So a unified publicly controlled system that is run by the people who actually understand the railways means that they can deliver those changes much across the network.’

Conductors, drivers and other staff who currently work for private operators would simply be transferred over to a GBR contract.

A train at Basingstoke Railway station in Hampshire

The name Great British Railways is taken directly from a white paper released by the Conservative government in May 2021, which outlined a radical shake-up of the railways that has not yet come to fruition.

Those proposals, written up by then-transport secretary Grant Shapps and businessman Keith Williams, still involved a ‘major role’ for private business in the rail sector.

In the vision described in the report, GBR would ‘own the infrastructure, receive the fare revenue, run and plan the network and set most fares and timetables’ – but contract with separate companies to operate the trains themselves.

Rail Partners, an industry body which supports the Williams-Shapps plan, said Labour’s idea would result in a ‘prolonged and messy transition’.

Andy Bagnall, the group’s chief executive, said: ‘Train companies agree that change is needed for the railways, but nationalisation is a political rather than a practical solution which will increase costs over time.

‘Creating a thriving railway for customers and taxpayers does not have to be an ideological choice between a monopoly railway in public hands and one that delivers private investment and innovation through franchising.’

Grant Shapps, now defence secretary, produced a report on the future of the railways when he was in charge of transport (Picture: Henry Nicholls/AFP via Getty Images)

Minister for Rail Huw Merriman said the opposition’s plan ‘will do nothing to improve train reliability or affordability for passengers’.

He added: ‘Just like their unfunded £28 billion a year decarbonisation promise, they don’t have a plan to pay for the bill attached to their rail nationalisation.

‘Without a plan to pay for this, it means one thing: taxes will rise on hard working people.

‘Only Rishi Sunak and the Conservatives have a plan to continue investing record amounts in our rail network – building on our over £100bn investment since 2010 and protecting passengers from the 8.7% fare rises seen in Scotland.

‘We are sticking to the plan to deliver better journeys for people across the country.’

LONDON, ENGLAND - OCTOBER 1: Members of the RMT, TSSA and ASLEF staff join the picket line at Euston station on October 1, 2022 in London, England. (Guy Smallman/Getty Images)

The RMT union, meanwhile, has welcomed the announcement.

General secretary Mick Lynch said: ‘Labour’s commitment to bring the train operating companies into a new unified and publicly owned rail network is in the best interests of railway workers, passengers and the taxpayer.

‘We strongly welcome these bold steps to fix 14 years of Tory mismanagement of our privatised railways and Labour’s promise to complete a transition to public ownership within its first term in office.

‘For too long private companies have made millions in profit from taxpayer subsidies and in return provided appalling levels of service.

‘This announcement, however, should be a first step to completely integrating all of our railway into public ownership.’

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