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Alaska's Inside Passage

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Uniquely Tauck

Alaska's Inside Passage Map

EXPERIENCE WITH TAUCK

All-included shore excursions feature choices to personalize your cruise and explore Alaska your way, including opportunities to get close to Alaska's wildlife by land and sea such as a unique wildlife safari, a visit to a sled dog camp and a trip aboard a very special railroad

TAUCK VALUE INCLUDES

All-included – Tauck's private shore excursions and distinctive inclusions valued at $3,383

Two of the more unique shore excursions are a "Dungeness Crab" experience where you learn about, and pull up, the Dungeness crabs (with a little help from volunteers) – and a kayaking adventure to observe wildlife in natural surroundings

On a special sea otter and wildlife cruise from Sitka, look for sea otters, whales, sea lions, porpoises, harbor seals, brown bears, blacktail deer, bald eagles and a variety of marine birds from the boat's expansive topside observation deck

Spend one night at a premier hotel in the heart of Vancouver with city sightseeing – and one night in Anchorage including an excursion introducing you to Kenai Fjords National Park

SEE WHAT YOUR JOURNEY INCLUDES

Guests should be able to easily walk one to two miles, which may include climbing one or two flights of stairs and walking over uneven pavement, groomed hiking trails or cobblestones. Standing up to one hour or more may be required.

Moderately paced, and may include some early morning hotel departures, one or two on-tour flights, and extended motor coach travel.

Cultural journeys and expeditions

Cruise through Alaska's legendary Inside Passage aboard Silversea's  Silver Moon , surrounded by some of the most dramatic and wildlife-rich scenery on Earth; a perfect combination of natural and cultural history...

Be at one with nature as you cruise the Inside Passage, surrounded by some of the most dramatic and wildlife-rich scenery on Earth – a cruise that is a perfect combination of natural and cultural history. Snow-crowned mountains, glacier-carved fjords, and lush green rainforests contribute to the feeling of being both uplifted and humbled by larger-than-life wilderness as far as the eye can see. There is always the possibility for wildlife spotting – humpback whales, eagles, orcas, harbour seals – and perhaps puffins, sea otters, the ever-elusive bears or the ever-moving salmon. Life under the sea reigns supreme while on the sea, fjords strewn with glacier chunks appear in shades of blue and white.  When you cruise through the Inside Passage, you'll soon understand why Alaska's state flower is the forget-me-not – because once experienced, this majestic state and its unique treasure trove of wildlife, landscapes, and rich multicultural heritage are truly unforgettable. Travel through awe-inspiring ice-capped waters and enjoy a choice of shore excursions on land, all included, to discover Alaska your way. Kayak to Eagle Island – take a scenic rail journey and streetcar tour – meet both musher and dogs on a sled dog experience – go on a wilderness safari in Glacier Point by boat, canoe, and a one-mile hike – explore a Gold Rush city to glean its historic past, a traditional Tlingit village to learn about its heritage, and the fishing town of Sitka to glean past and present. Alaska's Inside Passage – truly unlike anywhere else on the planet.

See for yourself what Small Ship Cruising is all about

Discover alaska's wildlife, encountering the incredible wildlife of alaska as you cruise the inside passage.

You are one with nature as you cruise Alaska's Inside Passage… through a larger-than-life wilderness capped by snow-crowned mountains, glacier-carved fjords, and lush green forests... encountering the most remarkable array of wildlife anywhere in the US – including humpback whales, bald eagles, orcas, seals, puffins, salmon, porpoises, sea lions… beaver, moose, grizzly bears, caribou, bison… elk, musk oxen, coyotes and more…

Cruising Alaska's fjords

Dramatic scenery all around you as you cruise alaska's fjords.

Named in honor of 1890s US Secretary of the Navy Benjamin Franklin Tracy, Alaska's Tracy Arm Fjord near Juneau is one of two deep, narrow fjords featuring dramatic, glacier-hewn landscapes dominated by sheer cliffs, towering waterfalls, and massive chunks of ice calved from the glacier at the head of the fjord, sparkling in an array of blues and whites. In contrast, Endicott Arm fjord, named in honor of a naval crewman dating back to 1899, marks the southern edge of the Fords Terror Wilderness Area, a 30-mile-long stretch surrounded by granite cliffs, mountain valleys and waterfalls alongside drifting glaciers, deep blue waters and the spectacular Dawes Glacier standing over 600 ft. tall and a half-mile wide. Both Tracy Arm and Endicott Arm fjords make for quite a show during your Inside Passage cruise... so be sure to have your camera ready and your eyes peeled for wildlife!

Wildlife Cruise

Sitka, Alaska

Sea Otter & Wildlife Cruise

A 3-hour cruise in Sitka provides a remarkable opportunity to observe sea otters, whales, sea lions, porpoise, harbor seals, brown bears, blacktail deer, bald eagles and a variety of marine birds, with commentary from an onboard naturalist explaining the workings of this remarkable ecosystem. The waterjet-driven tour vessel has been designed to navigate Southeast Alaska's narrow island passages, allowing for wildlife viewing at close range.

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Welcome Aboard

  • Silver Moon

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Fairmont waterfront, vancouver.

Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada

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Anchorage, Alaska

Your Journey

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Northbound: Vancouver → Anchorage

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Southbound: Anchorage → Vancouver

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About Booking This Tour

Travel Documents

Alaska's Inside Passage  begins in Vancouver, Canada and ends in Anchorage, Alaska, U.S.

If you are a U.S. citizen traveling internationally, you will need a passport valid for six months beyond the completion of your Tauck journey to enter Canada. Click here for more information on the U.S. Department of Customs and Border Patrol website.

If you are a U.S. citizen, you do not require a visa for the short duration of this tour. Please note that longer stays abroad for any purpose may require additional travel documentation. If you are a frequent traveler to Canada from the U.S., you may benefit from the NEXUS program which is a joint initiative between the U.S. Customs and Border Protection Agency and the Canada Border Services Agency that allows pre-screened and approved travelers faster processing at designated highway lanes in high-volume border crossing locations, at certain airports, and at certain marine reporting locations in the Great Lakes and Seattle regions. For further information, you may log on to the Nexus Internet site by clicking here.

If you are a citizen of another country traveling internationally, please contact an embassy or consulate of Canada and of the U.S. to determine what travel documentation will be required.

If you are a citizen of a visa-waiver country, you may need an ESTA from the USA and/or a Canadian eTa visa for this tour.

https://esta.cbp.dhs.gov/esta/

https://www.etacanadavisa.org/visa-information

Anyone with a criminal record (including some misdemeanors such as Driving While Impaired (DWI) charges) may be excluded or removed from Canada, and should contact a Canadian embassy or consulate well in advance of any planned travel to ensure proper travel documentation.

Every guest will be issued a boarding card that must be presented before embarking the ship in each port. 

We recommend that you make at least two photocopies of all the travel documents that you bring with you. Include copies of the photo page of your passport that contains the date of issuance, the date of expiration and your citizenship. Secure one set of copies in the safe in your room while traveling and leave one set behind with someone at home who will assist you in the event your documents are misplaced, lost or stolen.

To facilitate Travel Requirements, destinations are increasingly utilizing online forms that require digital proof that you've successfully completed your submission (via an email, QR code, etc.) To ensure smooth travels and peace of mind, we strongly recommend all guests carry a personal smart phone and sign up for international data plans before traveling overseas.

TRAVELING WITH CHILDREN AS A GUARDIAN: If you are traveling as the guardian of a child/children, we strongly suggest that you carry a letter from both parents of the child authorizing emergency treatment in the event of illness or accident. For travel abroad, many foreign countries have specific entry requirements for children under 21 who are traveling internationally without BOTH parents. (These requirements are in response to the increased incidence of children being abducted and taken abroad.) PLEASE NOTE THAT TAUCK IS NOT RESPONSIBLE for the disruption of travel caused by improper documentation for children traveling without both parents.

How to Book a Tour

See your travel advisor, or call Tauck at 800-468-2825 to make a reservation.

At the time of booking, please have the following information ready for all members of your party:

  • Tour Name and Departure Date
  • Traveler's Name: First and last names as they appear on your passport or driver's license
  • Traveler's Address(es)
  • Email Address*
  • Traveler's Phone Number(s)*
  • Emergency Contact Information: Please provide the name and phone number  of a relative or friend (not travelling with you) whom we could contact during the tour in the unlikely event of an emergency
  • Interest in purchasing a travel protection plan (US and Canada)
  • Interest in extending your trip by staying in a Tauck recommended hotel before your trip begins or after it ends
  • Interest in our specially negotiated airfares

* Required Fields

Deposits & Final Payment

The deposit and the fees for the optional Protection Plan or Cancel Fee Waiver [CFW] coverage are due at time of booking.

The deposit amount is $1,500 per person

Final Payment is due to Tauck  60  days before departure for lands trips, and  120  days before departure for cruises and rail journeys. If your deposit was made by credit card, final payment will be automatic unless you opted out at time of booking. Bookings without full payment at this time may be subject to cancellation without notice. Failure to make payment will be a considered a cancellation by the guest and all applicable cancellation fees will apply.

Cruise Protection Product

Effective for plans purchased as of July 1, 2021:

Tauck's Cruise & Event Protection

Tauck's Cruise & Event Protection provides you with cancellation protection before your journey begins as well as insurance benefits while you are traveling. Guest Protection includes the following:

Cancellation Waiver – Provided by Tauck:

Under Tauck's Cancellation Fee Waiver you can cancel your tour for ANY REASON and Tauck will  reduce the regular cancellation fees outlined herein, provided we are notified of cancellation before your cruise departs. Certain terms and restrictions apply (see below*).

*Extreme Circumstances:  In the event of an act of God, war (whether declared or undeclared), terrorism, accident, natural disaster, outbreak of disease, or other event or circumstance beyond our control that contributes to or results in cancellation rates above our historical cancellation rates in the absence of such event or occurrence, Tauck reserves the right to issue a credit to you in lieu of a money-back refund, applicable to a future Tauck journey. Travel Insurance Benefits – Underwritten by United States Fire Insurance Company.

  • Trip Cancellation –  Should you cancel for covered reasons, the plan reimburses cancellation fees imposed, up to your total trip cost. 
  • Trip Interruption –  If you have to interrupt your tour for covered reasons, the plan provides reimbursement to catch up to your tour or return home.
  • Travel Delay –  Provides reimbursement for missed, prepaid travel arrangements if you are delayed by a common carrier, natural disaster, unannounced strike, or other reasons as cited in the plan.
  • Medical Expense –  Reimburses covered medical expenses incurred in the event you become injured or sick during your trip. 
  • Baggage / Personal Effects Protection –  Provides reimbursement in the event your luggage or personal effects are, lost, stolen, damaged or delayed during your trip.

Worldwide Emergency Assistance Services –  Provided by Carefree Travel Assistance; 24-hour emergency telephone assistance hotline for medical and travel related problems.

The cost of Tauck's Cruise Protection is  $699  per person.

This plan provides cancellation coverage for your trip and other insurance coverages that apply only during the covered trip. You may have coverage from other sources that provides you with similar benefits but may be subject to different restrictions depending upon your other coverages. You may wish to compare the terms of this policy with your existing life, health, home and automobile policies. If you have any questions about your current coverage, call your insurer, insurance agent or broker.

This optional Cruise & Event Protection must be requested at time of booking and fee must be included in initial payment. Details will be provided with written confirmation of your reservation. Cruise & Event Protection does not protect travel agent commissions. Reimbursements will be made according to original method of payment. The amount of any refund shall be reduced by any recoveries obtained by you from any third parties.

To obtain your state-specific Certificate of Insurance that contains the complete terms, conditions, limitations and exclusions of the certificate, visit   affinitytravelcert.com/docs/TACCREDOM

If You Have To Cancel

If you cancel within 10 days of initial deposit

Within the first 10 days after you place your initial deposit, you may cancel your reservation for any reason with no cancellation fees.

If you cancel more than 10 days after initial deposit

Regardless of reason, cancellations result in costly charges from our travel and hotel providers covering penalties and fees incurred by canceling confirmed bookings. These fees vary from tour to tour. Therefore, the following fees apply for this tour.

Cancellation Fees with Tauck's Cruise Protection Plan:

120 days or more before departure: Loss of cost of Tauck's Cruise and Event Protection fee per person 119 – 60 days before departure: Loss of 25% of the cost of the cruise, not including air (if applicable), plus loss of Cruise and Event Protection fee, per person 59 – 1 days before departure: Loss of 50% of the cost of the cruise, not including air (if applicable), plus loss of Cruise and Event Protection fee, per person Cancellation Fees without Tauck's Cruise Protection Plan: 120 days or more before departure: $1500 per person 119 – 60 days before departure: Loss of 50% of the cost of cruise, not including air (if applicable), per person 59 - 1 days before departure: Loss of 100% of the cost of cruise, not including air (if applicable), per person Time of cancellation will be when notice is received in our Wilton Woods, CT office.

Tour Interruption Fees

If you have to interrupt your tour en route, you may be entitled to a refund for the unused land portion if it exceeds 24 hours; certain restrictions apply. Such refunds are based upon the number of overnights missed less a fee of $40 per person per day for unused transportation and other fixed expenses.

Partial Room Cancellation

A person who cancels or leaves a tour while a roommate remains constitutes a cancellation of one type of accommodation and rebooking of another type of accommodation. The price charged to the remaining person is the new, higher price for the new accommodation.

In the event of an unforeseen circumstance beyond our control, Tauck reserves the right to amend the cancellation and transfer terms outlined herein. Note: All Guests, regardless of residency, who book a Tauck journey have the option of purchasing the Cancellation Waiver provided by Tauck in the event they need to cancel their trip after making their reservations. Tauck's Cruise & Event Protection, which includes both the Cancellation Fee Waiver and the Travel Insurance Benefits and Assistance Services described above, is not available to residents of Puerto Rico.

Travel Terms and Conditions

Click here  to find Tauck's Travel Terms & Conditions.

Travel Requirements For This Tour

Air Information and Luggage Restrictions

AIRFARE: Airfare to and from this destination is not included in the journey cost. If purchasing your air elsewhere, it is very important to provide us with your confirmed arriving and departing flight information no later than 3 weeks before your arrival date. Flight information can be submitted to Tauck (or verified, if you've already provided it) in the My Account section of Tauck.com.

TAUCK AIRPORT TRANSFERS are included at the start and end of the journey between the airport and the Tauck hotel. Airport transfers are available for any pre tour or post tour hotel stays immediately consecutive to the tour, providing flight information is received in the Tauck office no later than three weeks in advance. Details on locating your transfer upon arrival to the tour start city will be included in your final documents.

AIRLINES and CHECKED LUGGAGE: Due to space limitations during your Tauck journey, we ask that you please limit your checked luggage to one average-size suitcase per person. Besides complying with the Tauck restriction noted above, you should also be sure to research and comply with all airline baggage restrictions relating to your flights to and from your Tauck journey. Airlines have become much more strict in enforcing size and weight limits in recent years, and are free to revise luggage policies without notice. Researching and complying with airline luggage restrictions is the responsibility of the guest, and Tauck cannot be held responsible for any costs or disruptions to travel caused by the failure to research and comply with airline policies. PLEASE NOTE that if you are booked on a tour that includes on-tour flights, the checked luggage weight restrictions for these flights may be lower than the weight restrictions for your international flights.

Checked Luggage – General

Due to space restrictions, we ask that you please limit your checked luggage to one suitcase per person weighing no more than 50 pounds (23 kg) and with overall dimensions (length + width + height) not exceeding 62 inches (158 cm). 

Airlines are free to revise luggage policies without notice, and certain airlines have different baggage allowances for different classes of service. Researching and complying with airline luggage restrictions is the responsibility of the guest, and Tauck cannot be held responsible for any costs or disruptions to travel caused by the failure to research and comply with airline policies.

Tauck luggage tags will be provided by your Tauck Director on Day 1 of your itinerary. Please do not attach a Tauck luggage tag to any carry-on items, as the Tauck tags designate luggage that is to be handled and transferred by ground operators and hotel staff during your journey.

Although oversize bags and wheeled, carry-on luggage are popular for airline travel, they are often not convenient or appropriate for motor coach travel or for many on-tour flights. Most modern sightseeing motor coaches offer limited space for numerous or larger items. Space under seats or in the overhead rack is typically small, and designed to accommodate items like coats, hats, purses, and small camera bags, etc.

For your day-to-day travel while on tour, we recommend that you limit your hand luggage to a small, soft-sided carry-on piece, and that you bring only those items you need handy during the day such as make-up, medications, cameras, film, etc. Items too large to fit under the motor coach seat or on the overhead rack must be stored in the luggage bays beneath the motor coach, and may be inaccessible during daytime travel.

Health, Safety and Mobility

HEALTH CONSIDERATIONS

Please check with your health insurance provider to determine whether you are covered while traveling. If you will not be covered under your current policy, we strongly suggest that you arrange for adequate coverage while on tour.

If you have a medical condition that might limit your participation in activities, please consult your physician for pre-departure health advice and notify us as soon as possible, if you have not already done so. We will advise your Tauck Director accordingly.

Silver Muse  is equipped with a medical center and a doctor is on call 24 hours. If you avail yourself of his/her services, a charge will be posted to your personal shipboard account. 

The ship's small infirmary is designed to provide medical care for certain temporary illnesses and accidents, and is not intended to or capable of providing on-going treatment of pre-existing medical conditions.

VACCINATION REQUIREMENTS AND RECOMMENDATIONS  

Some of the countries visited on this itinerary may require travelers to provide proof of vaccination against certain diseases in order to enter the country.  These requirements are subject to frequent change as outbreaks occur and subside in different areas, and it is therefore crucial that you obtain the very latest information on entry requirements as you prepare for your journey.

For the most current information, please consult the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) by clicking here and the World Health Organization (WHO) by clicking here. You may also wish to visit the web sites for the embassies of the countries you will be visiting.  Besides providing details on vaccination requirements, these sites can also provide information on vaccinations that may be recommended (but aren't required) and other potential health issues for which no vaccines are available.

Any decisions relating to your health, of course, should not be based solely on information provided by a web site.  It is critically important that you consult with your personal physician prior to your journey to obtain any required vaccinations and to review any optional recommendations offered by the CDC or other sources.

Please be sure to discuss your journey with your physician at least four to six weeks in advance of your departure, as certain vaccinations take time to become fully effective.  Also, be certain to ask your physician for proof of any vaccinations you receive, and to pack this proof along with your other travel documents in your carry-on luggage (not in your checked luggage).

Researching and complying with vaccination entry requirements for the countries visited on this itinerary is the responsibility of the traveler and not Tauck. Tauck is therefore not responsible for any expenses incurred or disruptions to travel caused by improper or incomplete vaccinations, or by the failure to provide proof of required vaccinations. If you do not obtain the necessary vaccinations and proper documentation, you may be denied entry into one or more countries, or temporarily quarantined until the necessary vaccinations are administered, or until proper documentation is provided.  MOBILITY

Cruising Alaska's Inside Passage is very relaxing and the pace leisurely. To enjoy this cruise, you should be in good health and able to walk reasonable distances, often over unpaved and uneven surfaces. Some of the most memorable sightseeing can only be accomplished on foot. There is a moderate to heavy amount of walking during our onshore excursions. However, for the most part, the amount of walking you do at the various sites and towns is at your discretion.

Onboard ship, health and fitness devotees will find a spa and fitness center on Deck 10, as well as a jogging track on Deck 9.

PLEASE NOTE: We regret that we're unable to provide individual assistance to guests with walking difficulties or other personal needs. The responsibility of the Tauck Director who accompanies your trip is to ensure that the larger group enjoys a relaxing and informative journey, and he or she cannot be relied upon to provide ongoing individual assistance to any one guest. Guests requiring such individualized assistance must be accompanied by an able-bodied companion who can provide it.

SPECIAL DIETARY REQUESTS

The restaurants, hotels, caterers and numerous other partners we work with all do their best to accommodate special dietary requests from Tauck guests. However, given the diverse nature of those food providers (from small wineries to grand hotels to world-famous restaurants in more than 70 countries worldwide), some of our partners are better able than others to accommodate such requests. We therefore cannot guarantee that all dietary requests can be accommodated at every meal. Also, please note that where dietary requests can be accommodated, choices will frequently be limited. SMOKING

Smoking is not permitted in any interior space on board Silver Muse . Smoke and open fire will activate the smoke detectors. Smoking is permitted in designated areas for cigarette, cigar and pipe smoking. Please do not throw your cigarettes overboard, as it is a violation of international maritime pollution laws and they can easily be blown back onto the ship. Please refrain from smoking on shore and in shore excursion vehicles and ship tenders. Smoking is also not permitted on the motor coaches. These regulations pertain to e-cigarettes as well.

Reading List

We have compiled a reading list of recommended books to give you more information about the destinations you will be traveling to on your upcoming journey!

You can view the reading list  here.

Although the assumption is that Alaska is a land of snow and sub-zero temperatures, the Alaskan climate is actually extremely varied, caused by the state's six different topographic regions. The far north is extremely dry and very cold, with Arctic conditions and temperatures average about -20 °F (-29 °C). Summer temperatures in the lowlands are surprisingly high, averaging in the 60's °F (16° C), and they have been known to reach 90 °F (32 °C), and up. The southeast tends to be fairly moderate, with damp, rainy and sometimes mild conditions, with temperatures in July averaging 56 °F (13 °C), and temperatures in January averaging 30 °F (-1 °C), and the south and central areas tend to be similar, with slightly colder winter temperatures. Western Alaska tends to be rainy, while the Aleutian Islands in winter are damp and rainy, with fog. Heavy snows are common in the north and central regions of the state.

To read about current weather conditions, we suggest you log on to the Internet website, noaa.gov , by clicking here .

What To Pack

When joining a Tauck journey, every guest is responsible for their own health and, in turn, the protection of their fellow travelers, the Tauck staff, our suppliers and the places we visit. As such, you are expected to follow local and supplier guidelines regarding face coverings, as explained by your Tauck Director. Our partners may have a limited supply of face coverings, gloves, and hand sanitizer, so please bring such personal items for your own comfort.

Bringing the right clothing for your trip is important – we've partnered with Necessary Gear who provide an "easy-to-use, one-stop shop" for your Tauck travel needs, specifically selected for this trip. Click here to visit their site .

The weather in Alaska is unpredictable. You will be visiting the warmer, dryer area of the interior and the cooler, wetter rainforest of the southeast coast. We suggest you pack clothing that can be layered for various weather conditions. Slacks, a sweater or fleece, a lightweight jacket and a rain coat are versatile clothes for touring, and comfortable "walking shoes" are a must.

For the welcome and farewell receptions, you may want to dress up a bit – a jacket for men and a casually-elegant outfit for ladies – but by all means be comfortable and note that this level of dress is not required, merely suggested.

Silversea operates an on board dress code after 6:00 PM, while during the day casual wear is appropriate for daytime and consists of standard sports outfits as worn at five-star resorts. Shoes should be flat or low heeled for deck activities. Evening wear falls into three categories: casual, informal and formal. On casual evenings, pants, blouses or casual dresses for women; open-neck shirts and slacks for men are appropriate. On informal evenings, women wear dresses or pant suits; men wear jackets (tie optional). Appropriate formal wear for women is an evening gown or cocktail dress; men wear tuxedos, dinner jackets or dark suits. Tie is required. On 7-day sailings or less, as is the case with this cruise, the formal night is per guest discretion, meaning that while the ship will operate one formal night, appropriate formal evening wear is optional.

We recommend that you pack an adequate supply of your prescription medication in its original container to last through your entire journey, together with a copy of your doctor's prescription or a letter from your health-care provider on office stationery explaining that the medication has been prescribed for you, a list of the generic names of your medication, your travel documents and a change of clothing in your carry-on bag to avoid any inconvenience in the event that your flight or luggage is delayed. No medications are sold on board the cruise ship other than those prescribed and stocked by the ship's physician.

Following is a list of recommended items to pack for your cruise:

  • Comfortable walking shoes (VERY IMPORTANT)                                        
  • Hiking boots for those who choose to hike                                         
  • Waterproof shoes or shoes that can get wet for water activities such as kayaking or canoeing                                                               
  • Rainwear, such as a raincoat and rain hat, plus a collapsible umbrella            
  • Long pants, fleece jacket or warm sweatshirt                                      
  • Warm hat, gloves and socks                                                        
  • Sport coat for men (with tie, suggested but not required) and slacks/dress for women for evening wear                                                             
  • Camera, lenses, batteries and extra memory cards                                  
  • Swimwear and gym wear                                                                    
  • Binoculars       (7 x 50 preferably)                                                                  
  • Insect repellent containing DEET                                                  
  • Sunglasses                                                                        
  • Sunscreen and hat                                                                 
  • Small flashlight   
  • Daypack for your photographic equipment or other belongings                      
  • Travel alarm clock/cellphone with alarm function                                                         
  • Prescription medicines (an adequate supply to last your entire journey), and written copies of your prescriptions from your doctor.  While it may be possible to refill prescriptions during your journey, the availability of refills cannot be guaranteed.  What's more, refilling prescriptions can be difficult and time-consuming.                                                                  

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  • 9.6   Exceptional
  • 3   Reviews

Small Ship Cruises in Inside Passage

An Inside Passage Cruise carries passengers along various stretches of the long coastal route. Reaching beyond the USA’s state of Alaska along the coast of Canada’s British Colombia, Alaska’s section of the Inside Passage runs for around 800 kilometres (500 miles) north to south and can span 160 kilometres (100 miles) across. Awash with spectacular scenery that encompasses towering mountains, gleaming glaciers, deep fjords, remote islands, lush forests, and tranquil beaches, there’s never a dull moment when you cruise the Inside Passage. A haven for wildlife fans, adventure junkies, and people who love to learn more about different cultures, Inside Passage cruises really are amongst the top adventure cruises in Alaska.

Top things to do & see on an Inside Passage cruise

From observing plentiful wildlife, bird watching, and trying an array of active activities and outdoor pursuits to honing your photography skills, sightseeing, admiring the dramatic landscapes, and meeting members of local communities, there is so much to experience on an Inside Passage cruise. Some top things to do when cruising Alaska’s and Canada’s Inside Passages include:

Glacier Bay National Park - A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Glacier Bay National Park is one of Alaska’s real gems. Stretching for 105 kilometers (65 miles), the many beautiful glaciers are a wondrous sight. The John Hopkins, Marjerie, and McBridge Glaciers are especially popular. Small ship cruises of the Inside Passage let you observe a range of wildlife from close quarters, including whales, seals, sea lions, otters, moose, bears, wolves, deer, and a host of smaller land-living creatures and birds. Kayaking and hiking are among the activities you can enjoy.

Tracy Arm and Endicott Arm - Two long and scenic fjords in the Fords Terror Wilderness; a highlight of the area is seeing the Sawyer Glaciers, glaciers that frequently calve, sending large icy blocks crashing into the waters below. The rocky and mountainous landscapes are punctuated by verdant patches of forest and cascading waterfalls. Wildlife you may spot while on your cruise includes whales, harbor seals, bears, deer, and wolves. Keep your eyes peeled for mountain goats, a rather unusual sight at such lower elevations, and watch birds bobbing on the waters and soaring overhead as you kayak through the clear waters.

Frederick Sound - The scenic Frederick Surround separates Admiralty Island and Kupreanof Island. A great place for summer whale watching, the Five Fingers Island Light can present an attractive sight in front of the icy landscapes behind it.

Misty Fjords - A sublime wilderness area and a national monument, be awed by the gigantic glacial cliffs as your Inside Passage Cruise makes its way through Misty Fjords. A smaller cruise ship might pass close enough to the many waterfalls for you to feel the spray from the powerful water. You can see the volcanic Eddystone Rock and listen to the calls of seabirds that musically fill the air.

Stephens Passage - In southeastern Alaska, Stephens Passage is known for its marvelous sights, sounds, and smells, with the resident whales, sea lions, gulls, and guillemots breathing life into the majestic surroundings. Deep waters and soaring mountains blend to create a visual dream, with rolling meadows and lush forests further adding to the appeal.

A range of Activities - Climb into a skiff (small one-person rowing boat) or kayak to feel completely free on the waters, soaking up the air of tranquility as you lose yourself in the many magical sights. Unleash your imagination as you explore. Join a guided hike to learn more about the magnificent landscapes and how they were formed over the years and discover more about the cultural groups and animals that occupy the remote areas. Discover the traditions and customs of different groups, including the Tlingit and the Haida, see intricate totem poles, visit cultural centers and much more.

Wildlife Encounters - A cruise of the Inner Passages offers wildlife encounters galore. Whether you’re an avid bird water or more interested in the creatures big and small that live in a watery home, there is no shortage of chances to be wowed. The icy waters are ecologically diverse, from enormous hales to small fish and everything in between. Myriad animals roam dry land, from bears, wolves, and deer to smaller creatures like weasels, ermine, and rodents.

Top Tips for Visiting Inside Passage

  • Don’t forget to take your camera for some spectacular shots of Glacier Bays’ gems, particularly the Marjerie Glacier and the John Hopkins Glacier.
  • Take a video camera to film the frequent calving of the Sawyers Glaciers and the whale activity at Frederick Sound.
  • Binoculars are advised for spotting wildlife from a distance.
  • Sturdy walking boots or shoes are required if you want to join hiking excursions.
  • Due to the typical climate and weather, dress in layers to combat the cold, and take wet weather clothes on your cruise. You might also want to invest in a waterproof bag for shore trips; keep your camera, money, and other essentials safe and dry.

Best time to cruise Inside Passage

Plan ahead and book your cruise of the Inside Passage for the relevant months that best fit the things you are most interested in seeing and doing. The best time to visit both Alaska’s Inside Passage and Canada’s Inside Passage is from spring to the end of summer. The temperatures are pleasant, especially in the summer; the days can be sunny and bright. Do be aware though that, although the rainiest months are generally October and November, the area is known for lots of rainfall all throughout the year.

You can watch migrating animals returning in the springtime and wildflowers bursting into bloom in the forests. Summer is several local species' main mating and birthing season; watch as seal pups drift on large blocks of ice and birds teach their offspring to fly and swim. There are also increased chances of seeing whales in the summer. The best time for hiking in the Inner Passages is from mid-summer onwards when the terrain has thawed.

Where do Inside Passage cruises depart from?

Alaska adventure cruises of the Inside Passages typically depart from Alaska’s Sitka , Juneau , or Ketchikan . Each is served by an international airport, with direct flights available to and from a range of Alaskan airports. Several direct flights connect Alaska with the mainland US. Still, if you add a connection, reaching the cruise departure points from almost anywhere in the USA is incredibly easy. Alternatively, you can also take an Alaska cruise from Seattle , removing the need to get to Alaska before your cruise adventure begins.

The closest international airports for an Inside Passage cruise are Sitka Rocky Gutirrez Airport (SIT), Juneau International Airport (JNU), and Ketchikan International Airport (KTN). Most flights to Alaska from the US mainland arrive in Juneau, Anchorage, and Fairbanks; connecting flights are readily available from both Anchorage and Fairbanks.

Inside Passage Reviews

  • 8.7 Fabulous
  • 6 Verified Reviews
  • 10.0 Exceptional

Amazing loved the wild life

Cruising Inside Passage in August on the Alaskan Dream

  • 8.4 Very good

Some kayaking on glassy waters.

Cruising Inside Passage in July on the Alaskan Dream

Beautiful - whale watching in particular

Overall, I took more than 800 photos and videos, many from the deck of the Alaska Dream. The waters, the whales and otters, the extraordinary mountains draped in snow, ice, and clouds, and the sunrises and sunsets were perfect. Many great art subjects. We loved the opportunities to hike the beaches and interiors.

Whale watching during passage was really fun. Many pods to view and captain did a great jump keeping them in fairly close view for our enjoyment. Wilderness Bay/Kake hike to rainbow falls and totem viewing was nice.

Cruising Inside Passage in September on the Alaskan Dream

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National Geographic Quest

National Geographic Quest

National Geographic Quest  Overview

The National Geographic Quest is the perfect ship to explore from the northern reaches of Alaska’s Inside Passage. Built by Nichols Brothers Boat Builders, the National Geographic Quest is the first expedition ship of its kind to be made entirely in the U.S.

In addition, National Geographic Quest achieves some other notable firsts. She is the first ship in Lindblad Expeditions’ fleet voyaging in these geographies with step-out balconies (available in 22 of the 50 spacious cabins), plus 6 sets of connecting cabins for families and groups; and a designated mudroom for expedition gear.

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Specifications – national geographic quest, accommodations, accommodations – national geographic quest, national geographic quest deck plan.

National Geographic Quest

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Inside Passage Sojourn

small ship cruise inside passage

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The 9-day Inside Passage Sojourn Alaska small ship cruise combines easy wilderness cruising and glacier viewing with visits to Alaska’s popular ports and authentic Tlingit villages. The 49-guest Baranof Dream has a sleek hull design optimized for supreme comfort in Alaskan waters and features spacious common areas and cabins that are configurable for families. Operated by an Alaskan family-owned company, the Inside Passage Sojourn has a focus on Alaska’s nature, history and First Nations culture.

The Inside Passage Sojourn features a number of included activities designed to bring travelers into intimate contact with Alaska’s natural and cultural heritage. In Juneau, appreciate opportunities to visit the Juneau-Douglas City Museum, Alaska State Capitol or take in the spectacular panoramic views in the Mount Roberts Tram. In Kasaan, visit the only remaining traditional Haida longhouse in the United States: the Chief Son-i-Hat Whale-House. In Tracy Arm-Ford’s Terror Wilderness, take in the wilderness that John Muir called “a wild, unfinished Yosemite.”

Spend time relaxing at the exclusive Orca Point Lodge, viewing petroglyphs in Wrangell or taking in the glistening waterfalls and enormous glaciers. Round out the trip by being immersed in the extraordinary history, art and cultural traditions of the Metlakatla Indian Community on Annette Island, including a visit to a traditional Tsmishian longhouse and a ceremonial dance performance. Kids of all ages will appreciate the diversity of this itinerary, making it an ideal option among our Alaska family cruises .

The northbound route sails from Ketchikan to Sitka, and the southbound itinerary departs from Sitka, cruising southbound to Ketchikan. In 2024, select southbound departures include even more time visiting glaciers. The special “Ice of the Inside Passage” itinerary affords guests the opportunity to get up close to the Margerie, Grand Pacific, Sawyer, South Sawyer, Dawes and LeConte glaciers—being Baranof Dream ‘s most in-depth glacier offering to date. 

The Inside Passage Sojourn is perfect for travelers seeking an easy cruising adventure with a focus on up-close exploration and authentic native culture. The number of ports visited and wilderness experienced over the course of this itinerary is impressive.

Read on for details about this trip, or learn more about the Inside Passage to Alaska and Glacier Bay cruise routes, as well as AdventureSmith’s Alaska trips and  Alaska small ship cruises in general.

Northbound Alaska's Inside Passage Sojourn Itinerary

The northbound route begins in Ketchikan, cruises north all the way to Glacier Bay, then travels southwest to Sitka, Alaska, for disembarkation.  

Alaska's Inside Passage Sojourn cruise Ketchikan to Sitka route map.

Arrive in Ketchikan, otherwise known as Alaska’s “First City” and “Salmon Capital of the World.” Your are encouraged to arrive early and explore the community’s rich culture, history and biodiversity. After boarding the vessel, take in the sights of the beautiful Tongass Narrows as you set out on your journey to explore true Alaska.

  • Baranof Dream

Immerse in the extraordinary history, art and cultural traditions of the Metlakatla Indian Community on Annette Island. Visit a traditional Tsmishian longhouse, enjoy a ceremonial dance performance, and meet Native artists. Later, glide beneath the 3,000-foot glacier-sculpted cliffs of Misty Fjords. Discover the fjord’s natural history, listen to the calls of a myriad of seabirds, feel the mist from glistening waterfalls and see famous New Eddystone Rock, a stunning volcanic core.

breakfast, lunch, dinner

Walk an enchanted forest path laden with intricately carved totem poles to the Chief Son-i-Hat Whale House, the only remaining traditional Haida longhouse in the United States. Inside stand four original house posts, or “Gáats,” that were most likely carved at Old Kasaan in about 1880.

Home to a little over 2,000 permanent residents, Wrangell is the only town in Alaska to have been under the jurisdiction of three flags and ruled by four nations- the Tlingit, Russia, England, and the United States. Enjoy several options to explore this colorful history, including a guided tour and a trip to the Wrangell Museum. Visit the intriguing state historic park, Petroglyph Beach, which contains the highest concentration of petroglyphs in Southeast Alaska.

Scout for humpback whales and other marine mammals in Frederick Sound. Humpbacks are famous for behavior that lends itself to incredible viewing and photography, such as tail lobbing, lunge feeding, pectoral slapping, breaching and picturesque dives that showcase their massive flukes.

Journey through Tracy or Endicott Arm in the Tracy Arm–Fords Terror Wilderness, a place the famous naturalist John Muir called “a wild, unfinished Yosemite.” Renowned for its pristine waterfalls, towering icebergs, abundant harbor seals, and granite cliffs that rise from sea level to 4,000 feet, this wilderness is often referred to by locals as one of the most scenic areas in the state.

Spend the day visiting highlights of the scenic capital city of Juneau. In downtown Juneau, visit the recently renovated Alaska State Museum. There will also be time to explore at leisure. Choose to visit the Juneau-Douglas City Museum, Alaska State Capitol or take in the spectacular panoramic views of the Mount Roberts Tram. Or delve deeper into local Native culture and history by exploring fascinating exhibits, art displays and a clan house at the Walter Soboleff Center. End the day’s adventure with a relaxing evening at Orca Point Lodge, an exclusive day-lodge on Colt Island. Enjoy a Tlingit cultural presentation, as well as the beautiful grounds, beach and marine life touch-tank. Dine on Alaska salmon, Alaska crab (subject to availability) or prime rib from the warmth of the lodge, or nestled next to a beachside bonfire.

This remarkable national park fjord extends 65 miles, contains eight tidewater glaciers, and provides pristine habitat for a wide-array of wildlife, including both brown and black bears, wolves, mountain goats, Steller sea lions and humpback whales. The highlight for many is the Margerie Glacier, known for its dramatic calving displays.

Savor the serenity of raw wilderness on an unscripted morning and afternoon of Southeast Alaska discovery. The countless options are dictated by the day’s unique circumstances. Opportunities may include a coastline kayak paddle, up-close whale encounters or a hike through an alluring old-growth forest. Perhaps do a beach landing on an unspoiled shoreline to explore a tidal flat or track along with a foraging bear from the safety of our expedition skiff. Regardless of the activity, experience the magic of the archipelago’s many remote coves, bays and inlets.

Disembark in beautiful Sitka, the only community in Southeast Alaska that faces the open ocean waters of the Gulf of Alaska. Be transferred to the airport or your hotel.

Selected guest cabin facilities; all meals aboard the vessel or where otherwise indicated; selected shore excursions as indicated in itinerary; ground transportation to and from the vessel and airport or select Sitka and Ketchikan hotels; use of recreational equipment as indicated in itinerary; all standard onboard services; complimentary glass of wine or beer with dinner; all alcoholic beverages for Vista View, Deluxe and Suite categories.

Airfare to and from your home city; non-complimentary beer, wine or alcohol selections or where otherwise indicated; discretionary gratuities to crew; travel insurance and insurance of any kind; all taxes and port fees (calculated upon booking).

Payment & Cancellation

In order to confirm this trip, a deposit of 15% of the total trip cost is required per person at time of booking. The balance of the trip price is due 90 days before the departure date. Special holiday payment and cancellation terms may apply. Guests who must cancel their trip for any reason must do so in writing. Standard cancellations are subject to the following per-person penalties, based on number of days prior to departure: Up to 120 days – 50% of deposit 119 to 90 days – 100% of deposit 89 to 45 days – 50% of total trip cost 44 to 0 days – 100% of total trip cost

Terms & Conditions

This trip is subject to AdventureSmith Explorations  Terms and Conditions . Please read this information carefully and call us if you have any questions. A Traveler Information Form, which includes a release of liability, must be completed and signed by all travelers. Your Adventure Specialist will send you a unique link to complete this form along with a packing list and extensive pre-departure and travel insurance information upon booking confirmation.

Arrival & Departure

2024: The northbound Inside Passage Sojourn Cruise begins in Ketchikan, Alaska (KTN), and ends in Sitka, Alaska (SIT). Plan flights to arrive to Ketchikan on Day 1 in time for a 12:00pm meeting with expedition leaders at the hospitality room for a visit to the Southeast Alaska Discovery Center and the Totem Heritage Center ahead of the 4:00pm embarkation time. We highly recommend arriving one day prior to your trip start date in case of any flight delay, cancellation or lost luggage issues. Disembarkation is at 8:00am on the final day of the reverse itinerary; plan flights to depart Sitka no earlier than 10:00am.

2025: The northbound Inside Passage Sojourn Cruise begins in Ketchikan, Alaska (KTN), and ends in Sitka, Alaska (SIT). Plan flights to arrive to Ketchikan on Day 1 ahead of the 4:00pm embarkation time. We highly recommend arriving one day prior to your trip start date in case of any flight delay, cancellation or lost luggage issues. Disembarkation is at 8:00am on the final day of the reverse itinerary; plan flights to depart Sitka no earlier than 10:00am.

Whether you are looking for light activity options or more challenging outdoor pursuits, the ship’s crew can tailor most any expedition to suit your skill level. Adventure activities may include whale watching, kayaking, shallow-water expedition craft excursions, land treks, glacier viewing, wildlife observation and a remote beach campfire experience.

Room Configuration

Single supplement rates are 150% of the double occupancy rate. Single supplement rates are capacity controlled and are available on a first-come, first-served basis. Third and fourth guests booking into a stateroom will receive a 15% discount after 2 full-price guests or after 1 full-price adult and 1 discounted child are booked.

Families & Children

Children (15 and under) receive 15% off double occupancy rate when sharing a cabin with 1 or 2 full fare adults. Programming is tailored for children ages 7 and up.

Travel Insurance

Protect your travel investment with insurance. Our partners at Travelex Insurance offer a variety of plans and policies to fit every trip and budget. Coverage for a pre-existing medical condition is also available if you purchase the Travel Select plan within 15 days of the initial trip payment; refer to plan details.  Learn more about travel insurance  or  get a free quote .

Itinerary Notes

Use the itinerary as a guide only. Itineraries may be altered due to weather, wildlife, national park regulation or at the captain’s discretion. The ability to be flexible makes this type of small ship cruising unique.

Southbound Alaska's Inside Passage Sojourn Itinerary

The southbound route begins in Sitka, cruises northeast to Glacier Bay, then travels southbound all the way to Ketchikan, Alaska, for disembarkation.

Arrive in beautiful Sitka, the only community in Southeast Alaska that faces the open ocean waters of the Gulf of Alaska. Transfer to the ship and embark.

Arrive in Ketchikan, otherwise known as Alaska’s “First City” and “Salmon Capital of the World.” Be transferred to the airport or your hotel.

2024: The southbound Inside Passage Sojourn Cruise begins in Sitka, Alaska (SIT), and ends in Ketchikan, Alaska (KTN). Plan flights to arrive to Sitka on Day 1 in time for a 10:00am meeting with expedition leaders at the hospitality room for a city tour ahead of the 4:00pm embarkation time. Disembarkation is at 8:00am on the final day; plan flights to depart Ketchikan no earlier than 10:00am.

2025: The southbound Inside Passage Sojourn Cruise begins in Sitka, Alaska (SIT), and ends in Ketchikan, Alaska (KTN). Plan flights to arrive to Sitka on Day 1 ahead of the 4:00pm embarkation time. Disembarkation is at 8:00am on the final day; plan flights to depart Ketchikan no earlier than 10:00am.

Ice of the Inside Passage Itinerary

The southbound Ice of the Inside Passage route begins in Sitka, cruises northeast to Glacier Bay, then travels southbound all the way to Ketchikan, Alaska, for disembarkation.

cruise route map for Ice of the Inside Passage from Sitka to Ketchikan showing the ship's path in red

Welcome to beautiful Sitka, the only community in Southeast Alaska that faces the open ocean waters of the Gulf of Alaska. You are encouraged to arrive early and explore the community’s rich culture, history and biodiversity. Embark for the winding narrows north of town while searching for bald eagles, sea otters, bears, whales and other wildlife.

Venture into Dundas Bay, within the confines of Glacier Bay National Park’s “Outer Bay.” In this secluded area, you’ll experience remarkable solitude as you paddle a shallow-water coastline inaccessible to larger craft.

Journey through Tracy Arm, a place the famous naturalist John Muir called “a wild, unfinished Yosemite.” Renowned for its pristine waterfalls, towering icebergs, abundant harbor seals, and granite cliffs that rise from sea level to 4,000 feet, this wilderness is often referred to by locals as one of the most scenic areas in the state.

Enjoy an exciting kayak or skiff expedition in stunning Endicott Arm, a glacial fjord in the Tracy Arm Ford’s Terror Wilderness area. View the impressive Dawes Glacier at the head of the arm. Later, scout for humpback whales and other wildlife in Frederick Sound.

After exploring the charming and historical community of Wrangell, board a comfortable, high-speed jet boat and venture north through Dry Strait to LeConte Bay. En route to the spectacular LeConte Glacier—North America’s southernmost tidewater glacier—you’ll navigate through a maze of glistening icebergs in the shadows of towering, snow-capped mountains.

Disembark in Ketchikan, otherwise known as Alaska’s “First City” and “Salmon Capital of the World.” Be transferred to the airport or your hotel.

2024: The Ice of the Inside Passage cruise begins in Sitka, Alaska (SIT), and ends in Ketchikan, Alaska (KTN). We highly recommend arriving one day prior to your trip start date in case of any flight delay, cancellation or lost luggage issues. Plan flights to arrive to Sitka on Day 1 in time for a 10:00am meeting with expedition leaders at the hospitality room for a city tour ahead of the 4:00pm embarkation time. Disembarkation is at 8:00am on the final day; plan flights to depart Ketchikan no earlier than 10:00am.

2025: The Ice of the Inside Passage cruise begins in Sitka, Alaska (SIT), and ends in Ketchikan, Alaska (KTN). We highly recommend arriving one day prior to your trip start date in case of any flight delay, cancellation or lost luggage issues. Plan flights to arrive to Sitka on Day 1 ahead of the 4:00pm embarkation time. Disembarkation is at 8:00am on the final day; plan flights to depart Ketchikan no earlier than 10:00am.

Whether you are looking for light activity options or more challenging outdoor pursuits, the ship’s crew can tailor most any expedition to suit your skill level. Adventure activities may include whale watching, kayaking, shallow-water expedition craft excursions, land treks, glacier viewing, wildlife observation and a remote beach campfire experience. The Ice of the Inside Passage itinerary also includes a high-speed jet boat ride to LeConte Bay and the spectacular LeConte Glacier.

Cruise Rates & Dates

Learn about the small ship on your itinerary .

The 49-guest Baranof Dream is an authentically Alaskan ship, featuring comfortable cabins, view windows and private bathrooms. The vessel is casual, the food delicious and the staff friendly and helpful.

Current Deals on This Trip

Save up to 20% on select 2024 departures of your Alaskan Dream cruise aboard Alaskan Dream, Admiralty Dream, Baranof Dream, or Chichagof Dream.

Calling friends and family. Groups of 10 or more save 10% on select 2024 Alaska cruises aboard Alaskan Dream, Admiralty Dream, Baranof Dream and Chichagof Dream.

Save 5% when you pay in full at the time of booking a select 2025 departure Alaska cruise.

Reviews from Our Experts So You Know What to Expect

An expert review by AdventureSmith founder Todd Smith of his Inside Passage Sojourn cruise aboard the Alaskan Dream.

Hear It from Travelers Who Have Explored with Us

Glacier Bay national Park was jaw dropping. I so appreciated the opportunity to see this area in a small boat - we had our locations to ourselves. No other boats were in the same cove/bay.

The whole trip including itinerary, organized outings, FOOD, and wildlife contact and sightings were top notch.

This was one of the most outstanding trips I have ever been on. The boat was the perfect size for us, the crew was exceptional, the food was fresh and delicious, and the natural beauty was breath-taking. I cannot say enough positive things about this experience.

The route and off-boat excursions were well planned and worthwhile. The food was carefully prepared, tasty and healthy. The accommodations were cozy but adequate. The crew on this boat worked very hard to keep the boat clean and sanitized.

Accommodations Review

I had a single occupancy cabin with a queen bed overlooking the water. A delightful way to wake up! Water pressure and hot water in shower was perfect.

Meals Review

Fish and meat options every dinner were tasty and thoughtfully prepared/presented. Lunches were the same each day. Breakfasts were hearty. I would have liked more fresh fruit offered. I would suggest a bit more variety in the lunch menu beyond soup and sandwich/salad daily. We had two families with kids onboard. We all got along very well and the kids commandeered a “kids” table at each meal. My only negative experience was the level of noise in the dining room during meals. Alaskan Dream cruises needs to install sound abatement material on the ceiling and walls! I was not the only passenger having difficulty hearing conversations.

Crew & Guides Review

Nicole was enthusiastic and well prepared each day. My only criticism is that she did not speak clearly at all times. Spoke too rapidly and did not always convey important details in a short concise fashion. A number of passengers wore hearing aids and she needs to be cognizant of that. Otherwise, she did a very good job of scheduling each day. Not too busy nor too much downtime.

Itinerary Review

[I most enjoyed] Kayaking off the boat! Glacier Bay national Park was jaw dropping. I so appreciated the opportunity to see this area in a small boat - we had our locations to ourselves. No other boats were in the same cove/bay. And whale watching! We saw two pods of whales feeding as they rose out of the water. Our captain always slowed the boat if we found wildlife to view. The trip itinerary was crafted depending on what we were seeing. This was my first trip to Alaska. There were no “leasts” in my experience on this boat!

Transportation Review

Seamless! I so appreciated how we were transported to the boat and how luggage was handled!

AdventureSmith Explorations Review

I felt very well prepared and informed for this trip. I will certainly consider AdventureSmith for any future small boat cruises. Very well planned and excellent communication.

Traveler Advice

Pack layers - the temps vary pretty widely within a 24 hour period. The rain gear provided by Alaskan Dream is high quality - no real need to pack/purchase your own.

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The whole trip including itinerary, organized outings, FOOD, and wildlife contact and sightings were top notch. The staff was incredible and Captain Erik made sure that our requests and 'dreams' were fulfilled. He went the extra mile as did the excellent naturalists and contacts in the communities. I really loved taking the zodiac raft out to get a MUCH closer look at the wildlife and to generally explore. My husband, a non swimmer, actually tried his hand at the kayaks. The sheer majestic scenery of Glacier Bay, Stikine River (and its link to the Gold Rush), Kasaan and the restoration of the longhouse, Tracy Arm Fjord  glacial flows and on and on made this trip of 31 passengers so much better than the large liners that passed us but couldn't get to the small inlets that we did. How lucky were we!!! Sitka was an interesting town and I bumped into a group of women making baskets out of salmon skin. This was sponsored by a local museum. Great to see Native American art being passed on.

The bed was really comfortable and I loved looking out of the large picture window at night to see the light....LOL and also on occasion when  I would wake up early in the morning I would see the night sky and the moon. The shower and toilet combo worked well but was a bit of a tight squeeze but makes sense for this type of transportation. I really liked the nightly sheet left on our bed about the following day's activities. I could read up about what we were going to see and do. I also liked the intercom in the room to alert us to various wildlife or geological sightings.

The food was OUTSTANDING. Great choices, so carefully prepared. The baker also did an outstanding job of keeping everyone in fresh, hot, delicious goodies. The afternoon cookies at the bar were very popular. Pounds were gained but who cared!!! As I am lactose intolerant, I was amazed at how the chef and her staff created incredible alternatives for me to eat as did the baker.

I am use to organizing our trips so it was nice to have someone else advising on what we needed to take and things (such as waterproof pants and jackets) etc. would be provided. Aaron cheerfully answered all of my questions.

Larissa and Simon were the two naturalists who guided us through the daily activities and provided evening slide shows on topics of interest. Both were wonderful and knowledgeable. Not only was Larissa knowledgeable about nature but she was an accomplished photographer and artist. At the end of the journey she created a DVD of photographs with music for all of us to take as a great memory of our journey together. Simon was remarkable. He is so eager to learn. He was substituting for the other naturalist who was assigned to us for the trip. It was his first stint at this and honestly his enthusiasm was so huge and his passion for his work so strong. He was funny, a great communicator, and a real joy to share time with. Both were always there to answer any questions and guide us to books in the ship's library for additional information.

I loved my time spent with Alice who shared her Tlingit history with us. She and I had a quiet talk at the end of the day that she spent with us in Glacier Bay. She drummed and sang a welcoming song as we sat in the corner. My goal was to call the Orcas to us and sure enough...the last day we were on water a WHOLE POD came by and accompanied the boat. My dream for the trip. We had a great staff server for food, Mystique. She was light-hearted and fun and personalized her service regarding meals..she remembered the special things we liked when eating the delicious foods. Capt. Erik was, of course, on a mission to find me my Orca experience and sure enough, he delivered.

Take time to just enjoy the majesty of Alaska!

This was one of the most outstanding trips I have ever been on. The boat was the perfect size for us, the crew was exceptional, the food was fresh and delicious, and the natural beauty was breath-taking. I cannot say enough positive things about this experience.

I most enjoyed the areas of natural beauty - Misty Fjords and Glacier Bay. Perhaps the highlight of the trip was an unscheduled jet boat add-on trip to a glacier that our captain arranged for us with guides he knew in the local area. The jet boat traveled through increasingly icy water until we were basically plowing through slush, with mother and baby harbor seals surrounding us on the ice floes. We saw a young bull moose swimming in the channel, before rounding the bend and gazing on the glacier, which had ice-blue highlights. While we watched, a giant piece of the glacier calved off, hit the water, and spouted into the air. Other peak experiences were watching breaching orcas and humpback whales, close to the boat. The other experience that was so special was in-depth conversations with the guides on board. Both women were knowledgeable, outgoing, and delightful. And finally, the polar plunge!

The cabins were small, but did not seem claustrophobic. I was impressed at how comfortable the mattresses and comforters were. The showers were tiny, but plenty of hot water. The boat had a very nice lounge area with large viewing windows, where everyone on the trip tended to congregate for good company when we were not out on the decks looking at wildlife and the surroundings. I would definitely travel on this ship again.

The food on board was plentiful and outstanding, as my extra five pounds will attest! Every meal had a fresh seafood option, and all the food was delicious. The crew was so accommodating, as we asked for extra dessert, mixed and matched the side dishes, and tweaked our meals at will.

Captain Eric was the best! He not only got us where we were going in style, but he was friendly and went the extra mile for us. One example: We came back late from our jet boat trip, so had to skip dinner. The crew provided sandwiches for us on the jet boat about 7:30 pm, but by about 10 pm, back on the boat, there were a few hungry people still in the bar area. We started making noises about the left-over venison chili in the kitchen. The bartender (Amy, the amazing zen master of the bar) called Eric, who came down to the kitchen, opened it up, and reheated the chili for us. They then served it for us with complete place settings at the bar.

I need to say a few more words about Amy, who took my 21-year old daughter under her wing and taught her about discerning drinking. She quickly figured out what Kate liked to drink, and concocted new drinks for her, all of which were delicious. She was also unfailingly kind and cheerful - the yoda of mixology.

Finally, I must give a shout-out to Erin and Brittney, our two guides. You could not ask for a nicer, more generous spirited couple of women.

I have no complaints about this area - it's just that most of the transportation was arranged by the Alaskan Dream team.

Everything was great - timely, complete, and clear information.

Pack layers, including one pair of shorts and a couple of short sleeved t-shirts, if you're going in the summer. The temperatures got up to the upper 70's. I should have packed one pair of shoes that were easy to slip on and off for the boat, since we spent a lot of time on the boat traveling around and wildlife viewing.

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Additional Travel Options Before or After Your Cruise

Spend 3-4 nights at a remote backcountry lodge situated 90 miles inside Denali National Park. Unbeatable wildlife viewing, landscape photography, guided hikes, fishing, dog sleds and an Alaska railroad ride can be customized to complement any Alaska small ship cruise.

The 7- or 8-day Alaska Wildland Collection is a seamless Alaska adventure promising remote and in-depth exploration of the Kenai Peninsula. Easy access from Anchorage, short travel times, fun activities and special youth rates make this a great family travel option.

The ultimate of all Kenai Fjords tours, this trip offers active exploration from the Kenai Fjords Glacier Lodge, the only lodge located within Kenai Fjords National Park. Enjoy a more in-depth exploration—think kayaking, hiking, relaxing—and less overland travel.

Inspiration & Education

Learn all about the famed Alaska passage and the best time to visit with our travel guides. We cover not only how to plan your trip, but what to get excited for when you get to Alaska!

When is the best time to visit Alaska? Consult this month-by-month guide for help planning your Alaska travel with tips on everything from weather, wildlife, daylight and the benefits of each month.

Find good company in Alaska with our tips on what it's like, answers to your questions on single supplements and how to book at the best solo traveler rate. 

Visit Alaska National Parks with wilderness, nature & solitude. These small ships and remote lodges let you skip the crowds. Learn about the various options to explore Glacier Bay, Kenai Fjords & Denali in this itinerary round-up.

Trips You Might Also Like

The 40-guest Alaskan Dream operates this 8-day Glacier Bay & Island Adventure, combining Glacier Bay National Park with visits to lesser-known gems, with wildlife viewing and cultural insights.

The 8-day Last Frontier Adventure cruise combines Glacier Bay National Park with active hikes and kayaking among rainforest and glaciers, with cultural insights along the way aboard 49-guest Admiralty Dream and Baranof Dream, or 80-guest Chichagof Dream.

This compact North to True Alaska Expedition Cruise explores the Inside Passage aboard 80-guest Chichagof Dream, 49-guest Admiralty Dream or 40-guest Alaskan Dream, including a unique day in gold-rush-era Skagway and a day tour by train that crosses the Canadian border.

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The Tlingit called this area "where herring spawn" and used the inlet for its abundance of salmon, halibut, clam, and shrimp. It is located on northern Admiralty Island and allows quick access from Stephens Passage to Chatham Strait. It is still used today by commercial, recreational, and subsistence fisherman. The area was home to Hawk Fish Company cannery from 1868-1920 and it now houses Green Creek Mine, the fifth largest silver producer in the world. The mine was established in 1989 and has been grandfathered in to be the only mine allowed to operate in a national monument. It is the largest private employer in Juneau with 440 employees that can only commute by ferry.

Taku Harbor

Former home of the San Juan Fish & Packing Company, a major salmon cannery, which was established in 1901. Now it is part of an Alaska state marine park. It was named after the Taku natives that lived in the area. In 1840 it was known as Fort Durham and was a trading post for Hudson Bay Co. There is an original cabin here that gold miner and trapper Henry “Tiger” Olson lived in that is now available for rent.

North Sawyer

Pavlof harbor.

A state designated bear viewing area where you’ll often see bears gracefully fishing in streams for salmon. You can kayak paddle upstream for safe bear viewing.

Tenakee Springs

A small community on Chichagof Island that was founded in 1910. The total population as of 2020 is 116 people. There is a grocery/general store, school, post office, and museum. There are no roads or cars, and the only way in and out is by seaplane or boat. Beautiful anchorages, great crabbing, brown bear viewing, and nature walks. Take a stroll through the quaint town while watching float planes navigate the waterway as the primary mode of transportation.

We will typically anchor here for the night prior to entering the spectacular fjords leading to the glaciers. We’ll set crab pots for the night while enjoying beautiful sunsets

A beautiful hike to a secluded lake tucked away in the quiet of the forest.

Brothers Island

Kayaking & sea lion rookery

5 Finger Lighthouse

This was the first US-governed lighthouse opened in Alaska, which was first lit on March 21, 1902. The original lighthouse burned down, and the now-standing lighthouse was built two years later in 1935. It sits on a small island between Stephens Passage and Fredericks Sound. In 2004, it was listed as a historic place in the National Register.

LeConte Glacier

This glacier can be seen outside of Petersburg. It is a 21-mile long tidewater glacier and is the southernmost tidewater glacier in the Northern Hemisphere. It is known for its “shooters,” which are icebergs that calve underwater and shoot out of the water due to their buoyancy.

Carroll Islands

Exciting adventures await you on your kayak paddle around these rugged islands. (Weather permitting)

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Baranof Warm Springs

A great place to take a stroll along the boardwalk and soak in a private tub filled fresh with hot springs water or take a dip in the natural springs a short hike from the dock. Another great paddle is into a salt water chuck for bear viewing.

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Inside Passage Glaciers & Wildlife

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Dive Deep into Glacier Bay National Park

Cruise aboard the Safari Quest through the wildlife and glaciers of Glacier Bay National Park, 3.3 million acres of rugged mountains, dynamic glaciers, temperate rainforest, wild coastlines, and deep sheltered fjords. Explore highlights of the Inside Passage including Icy Strait, Margerie and Grand Pacific Glaciers, Kuiu Island, Frederick Sound and Endicott Arm and this intimate small ship cruise in Alaska.

Cruise the Inside Passage in Luxurious Comfort

Arrive in juneau.

Welcome to Juneau, the capital of Alaska! Upon arrival, receive a personal greeting from your private driver followed by transfer to your hotel.

Overnight in Juneau

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Today, after breakfast you’ll be transported by private vehicle to the Safari Quest, where you will meet your crew and shipmates before embarking west on your way toward Icy Strait.

Overnight on the Safari Quest, your home for the next seven nights.

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Discover Wildlife and Rugged Coastlines in Icy Strait

This morning, you’ll awake to find yourself in kelp-lined channels lined with hemlock and spruce forests. Mother nature hosts you today as you explore the area bordering Icy Strait in Glacier Bay National Park! Seals and sea lions enjoy lounging on the rocky outcrops and you may get up close to view and photograph them on a skiff from the boat. You can also choose to explore the rugged shoreline with your naturalist guides all the way to George Island. Whether you take off by kayak, paddle board or skiff, your guides will showcase all this area has to offer.

Tonight soak in the hot tub aboard the Safari Quest after the day’s adventures as you take in the serene Alaska wilderness landscapes surrounding you.

small ship cruise inside passage

(c) Mark Kelley. All rights reserved.

Watch and Listen to Margerie and Grand Pacific Glaciers

Continue your exploration of Glacier Bay National Park today in search of wildlife and glaciers. Your ship’s captain will tuck you into Tidal Inlet, stomping grounds for bears, wolves, mountain goats, and eagles with a background that may take your breath away. Sail down the westernmost arm of the park to find Margerie and Grand Pacific Glaciers. You will have front row seats to calving events; the sound is incredible as chunks of ice break away and fall into the sea. During your day look for black oystercatchers and orange-beaked tufted puffins.

small ship cruise inside passage

Adventures in Chatham Strait: Hiking, Kayaking and Wildlife Viewing

Join your captain on the bridge or your guides on the bow of the Safari Quest, and watch for whales and other wildlife before tucking into Port Frederick or other inlets bordering the Tongass National Forest. There are abundant places for the ship to stop for land-based and water-based adventures. Hike, paddle, or skiff your way through this remote corner of Alaska with bears dotting the shoreline, seals bobbing on the surface of the calm waters, and welcoming boughs of moss drip from the trees.

small ship cruise inside passage

Meet the Black Bears of Kuiu Island

Kuiu Island is home to one of the world’s densest populations of black bears and salmon streams that dot the coastline. Adventure on a kayak or skiff, and keep your eyes on the shore for bears fishing or eagles waiting to swoop in for their catch of fish.

small ship cruise inside passage

Whale Watching in Frederick Sound

Begin your day with a yoga class as you wait aboard the Safari Quest for humpback whales to make their appearance in Frederick Sound. The whales thrive here feeding on krill, zooplankton, and herring each summer. Your captain will point out Five Fingers Lighthouse, Alaska’s oldest light station, and the Brothers Islands, where sea lions may be stretched out on the rocks, enjoying the sunshine. Enjoy a kayak paddle amidst calm waters.

small ship cruise inside passage

Endicott Arm to Dawes Glacier

Skiff up Endicott Arm where harbor seal can be seen lazing on icebergs and if the tides are right, continue into Fords Terror. At the end of the Arm you will come to Dawes Glacier. Here, blue glacial ice is a sharp contrast against the Coast Mountains.

Back on the boat, there’s a treat in store— your very special farewell dinner on board the Safari Quest and some special memories from your crew.

small ship cruise inside passage

Disembark and Depart Juneau

Enjoy one last breakfast onboard this morning and say farewell to your new friends. Disembark from your vessel in Juneau and receive a private transfer to the airport for your journey back home, or to begin the next segment of your Alaska vacation.

small ship cruise inside passage

(c) Brian Adams. All rights reserved.

Amenities, nearby adventures and more...

Price range:  $1500 - $2000 per person, per day, accommodations.

The Safari Quest is an intimate vessel, that sleeps just 22 guests and has theagility to maneuver into the smallest coves and coveted wilderness areas. While the ship is a smaller vessel it hosts a cozy lounge and dining room and plenty of spots to snuggle up and read a book after a long day of adventure. Fully equipped with gear for outdoor adventures and a bow-mounted camera delivers the action to every television. Relax in the spa area, which features a large on-deck hot tub, fitness equipment, and yoga mats.

Each guest cabin is spacious and comfortable, with memory foam mattresses, TVs, view windows, and a private bathroom.

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Departure Port

This small ship cruise is roundtrip from Juneau. The capital city of Alaska is located off the road system but is Southeast Alaska’s main air transportation hub with daily flights from major airlines.

small ship cruise inside passage

Culinary Highlights

All gourmet meals are included during your cruise tour and every meal is handcrafted by executive chefs to highlight the flavors of southeastern Alaska. Not to mention the fine-picked wines, microbrews, and small-batch, house-made cocktails available onboard.

Each morning begins with fresh fruit, hot pastries, and a full breakfast. Lunches range from hearty salads, sandwiches, and homemade soups. Dinners are served over several courses and often include fresh local seafood and meat. Vegetarian dishes are also available at all meals.

small ship cruise inside passage

Activities & Adventures

For each day of this cruise tour, you can choose from a variety of activities based on your particular interests and abilities.

For the active and adventurous, embark on a guided kayak or skiff boat tour at each destination for close up views of wildlife. Consider hiking into the wilderness of remote islands for panoramic views, or try your hand at paddle boarding.

If you would rather relax, there will be plenty of opportunities for wildlife viewing from the cruise deck. Keep your eyes out for a glimpse of seals, otters, sea lions, whales, and other species.

small ship cruise inside passage

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Include a PRIVATE tour to Mendenhall Glacier

Consider including a private tour to Mendenhall Glacier in Juneau prior to boarding your ship.

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Add a remote lodge stay

Combine this small ship cruise with a stay at an all-inclusive remote lodge to explore a different part of Alaska.

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Inside Passage

The Inside Passage, also called the Inland Passage or the Inner Passage, is a stretch of protected ocean approx. 1,500 km long, that runs from Puget Sound in Washington State, USA, along the British Columbia, Canada coastline, to Skagway, Alaska, USA. It is a popular cruising area and marine transportation route, due to its absence of open ocean swells and its relatively flat and calm waters.

The Inside Passage: Along the Alaska and BC Coast

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What Is the Inside Passage? | Tour the Inside Passage (Alaska or Canada’s Inside Passage) | A Brief History | Inside Passage Today | Cruising by Expedition Ship

  • TIP: On Inside Passage cruises with Maple Leaf, you’ll sail on a 138-foot catamaran, an 88-foot converted tugboat, or a 92-foot classic schooner, with just 8 to 24 guests. These trips explore the wildlife and spectacular natural world — whales, bears, seabirds, rainforest, and other wildlife, with our expert, local naturalists and guides. Read more about these small ship cruises here: Alaska’s inside passage | Canada’s inside passage

Inquire about our inside passage trips.

What Is the Inside Passage?

The Inside Passage is one of earth’s best cruising routes.

It is formed where the  mountainous coast of Alaska, British Columbia and Washington State meets the Pacific Ocean .

A thousand-mile chain of island archipelagos lie west of the continent’s edge. Open ocean swells of the Pacific break against the islands’ western shores and their energy is released.

The protected waters of the inside passage are calm and teem with life. Photo by Jeff Reynolds.

The combination of the thousands of islands and the upwelling at the continent’s edge also creates a rich marine environment .

The Inside Passage teems with marine life : from humpback whales, fin whales, killer whales, dolphins, porpoises, sea lions, salmon sharks and other large animals to millions upon millions of fish, seabirds and invertebrates.

On shore, the coastal rainforest provides habitat for grizzly/brown bears, black bears including the rare spirit bear, wolves , and many other mammals .

An emerging expedition cruise or small ship cruise industry, mostly operated by local Canadian and American companies, lets visitors experience the wonder of this natural world by becoming part of it. These are the Inside Passage small ship cruises that we offer at Maple Leaf Adventures.

Much of the area is still in its ancient, natural condition . There are some cities and towns along it, including Seattle, Victoria, Vancouver, Campbell River, Bella Bella, Prince Rupert, Ketchikan, Petersburg, Juneau, and Skagway.

Tour the Inside Passage

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Alaska’s Inside Passage

Alaska’s Inside Passage  – Southeast Alaska is home to the coast’s only remaining tidewater glaciers – glaciers that calve into the sea.

Highlights of our southeast Alaska cruise include glaciers,rainforest, sea otters, brown bears, humpback whales, hot springs and historic towns such as Ketchikan, Petersburg and Sitka. We take just a small group of guests per trip, which gives you a very personalized experience of this spectacular natural world!

Canada’s Inside Passage  

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The Great Bear Rainforest (north part of Canada’s Inside Passage) – Highlights are spectacular fjords, incredible bear viewing of grizzly bears and the rare white spirit bear, rainforests, hot springs and rich First Nations cultural history. This area contains the largest intact temperate rainforest on the planet. Large ships do not visit this area and travelling here is one of the most astonishing experiences in nature.

Read about tours in the Great Bear Rainforest part of the inside passage.

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  • Read about tours in the Gulf Islands part of the inside passage.

Also related:  Haida Gwaii / The Queen Charlotte Islands  – just west of the inside passage, directly along the continental shelf, lies the archipelago of Haida Gwaii. Known also as the “Canadian Galapagos”, these approx. 140 islands teem with whales, seabirds, intertidal life and rainforests.

They are also home to the Haida culture, where guests can visit traditional Haida village sites on islands in the archipelago. This little-known but incredible place is on many Canadians’ “bucket list”. Contains UN World Heritage Site S G ang Gwaay.

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A Brief History

Much of the Inside Passage was covered in ice during the last ice age .

Advancing glaciers carved massive fjords into the coastline, which are now navigable and which our small ship cruises explore.

However, people have been living along the Inside Passage for a very long time .

When you realize how rich it is in food and how easy it is to travel by water, the theory that migrations of people moved along the coast before they moved inland makes sense.

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The coastal First Nations have travelled these waters in spectacular seagoing canoes for a very long time. Footprints found at Calvert Island, BC, in 2015, could be the oldest to date in North America. These footprints are radiocarbon dated to 13,200 years ago .

In Europe’s age of exploration, Russians, Spanish and English explorers sailed into the area and began charting it. From 1791-95, England’s Capt. George Vancouver did extensive charts of the entire region, and he and his crew are responsible for many of the non-First Nations names on the map today.

When the United States purchased Alaska, in 1867 , Americans began travelling north to see this new part of their country. Not long after, the first expedition- type cruises to Alaska started. Cruising Alaska has been popular ever since .

The Inside Passage Today

MV Swell in BC by Jeff Reynolds

It is also a marine transportation route for goods travelling between Seattle and Alaska (and points in between), as well as for passenger ferries. It’s a popular boating route for private boaters as well as commercial cruise companies.

Recently, as people started to demand high-quality, experiential trips, the diversity of cruise ships has increased.

Now, in addition to the large 2,000-passenger ships traditionally associated with cruise tours, you can enjoy active, small ship cruises like those that we offer at Maple Leaf Adventures.

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And while much of the area is in its natural state, citizens are working hard to protect it by law from destruction – protecting the rainforests, the marine life, the bears and whales and remote beaches.

Cruising by Expedition Ship

What’s your style? Compare Alaskan and Inside Passage cruises here:

  • Expedition Cruises by Small Ship – These are the trips that we at Maple Leaf Adventures have offered for over 25 years. On these inside passage cruises, you are part of a group of 24 or fewer guests, who experience the wonder of the coastline, its wildlife, its rainforests, beaches and cultures. Our trips include: Alaska Adventures (Alaska Inside Passage),  Great Bear Rainforest (Canada’s Inside Passage – north), Gulf Islands National Park and Vancouver Island area (Canada’s Inside Passage – south). Also we visit Haida Gwaii / Queen Charlotte Islands , just west of the Inside Passage (the Canadian Galapagos). You’ll go ashore frequently to experience the coastal world, as well as sailing the inside passage .These are all-inclusive cruises.  View these Inside Passage expedition cruises .

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  • Big Ship Cruises – These are the cruises most people think of when they hear the the words “Alaska cruise tour”. The ships are about 950 feet long and carry about 2,000 passengers. Unlike small Alaskan cruise ships, these big ships stop only at port towns. The experience is completely different from expedition cruises by sailing ship and are for people who don’t wish to experience the nature of Alaska as their top priority.

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Best Rated Alaska Small Ship Cruises

Alaskan adventures come in all shapes and sizes, so if you’re planning a cruise to Alaska, there are countless options to select between. From massive ships nearly 1,000 feet long to Alaska small ship cruises, the Last Frontier offers something for every type of traveler.

That said, there are distinct advantages to selecting small ship cruises to Alaska over larger boats. Smaller cruise boats are more intimate, helping you make friends and also connecting you with the water below — on large ships, it’s easy to forget that you’re even on the ocean; not so with small ship Alaska cruises.

Another huge benefit of Alaska small ship cruises is that these boats are able to navigate tight waters that prevent large ships from entering. This gives you access to a more wild and untouched Alaskan experience.

Here, pristine waters reverberate with life, animals migrate across the shores and distant peaks are clad in dazzling glaciers — the welcoming spirit of Alaska is palpable.

Ready to begin your journey? Continue reading to learn more about the best small ship Alaska cruises offered by AAA.

Why Alaska Small Ship Cruises Are Worth Experiencing

Alaska cruises have grown significantly in popularity over the last decade. As the largest U.S. state by area at 665,384 square miles, Alaska boasts 6,640 miles of coastline, making it an ideal destination for cruising and land expeditions. This vibrant corner of the USA is packed with vast frontiers, rivers and natural harbors all ripe for exploration.

But why should you browse small ship cruises in Alaska instead of the big boats? Small ships enable you to enjoy the same beautiful panoramic views that big boats offer, but with the added ability to get up close and personal with the rugged Alaskan landscape. Also, by nature, small ship cruises are less crowded than big boats, providing a more relaxing and rejuvenating cruise environment.

Still on the fence? Here are some of the top reasons why you should select one of AAA’s best-rated small ship Alaska cruises for your next adventure:

Enjoy a More Luxurious and Inclusive Experience

Alaska inside passage small ship cruises offer a relaxed atmosphere, with more window and balcony options — a smaller, narrower boat means fewer interior cabins and more water-view staterooms.

Also, in contrast to the Bellagio atmosphere of large ships, smaller boats can take on a boutique, luxury hotel feel. This means well-maintained, state-of-the-art facilities, price-included gratuities, free shore excursions and more.

More Flexible Itineraries and Close-to-Shore Sailing

Big boats tend to stick to large, popular ports and are extremely rigid in their itinerary. Small ship cruises in Alaska, on the other hand, are able to adjust schedules for unexpected sightseeing opportunities. Even better, while large boats are forced to sail far out from land in the deep ocean, small cruise boats can hug the shore during their trip.

A Focus on Exploration and Adventure

Whereas large boats prioritize on-ship activities, Las Vegas-style festivities and function more or less like a floating resort, small ship cruises emphasize off-ship exploration, appreciation of nature and a greater variety of active shore excursions.

Intimate, Personalized Service

Large boats tend to deliver adequate but impersonal service — wait staff and guides will be polite but aren’t going to go the extra mile to make you feel welcome. On the other hand, small ship cruises to Alaska prioritize personalized service, with the crew and shore guides doing their best to help you feel comfortable and at home onboard.

More Authentic Shore Excursions

In contrast to chaotic, large group excursions, Alaska cruises on small ships ensure that shore excursions are intimate and memorable. With fewer passengers to divide their attention, tour guides are able to devote more effort towards creating a high-quality, more personal experience for guests.

Fewer passengers also means that shore excursions will be more time-efficient, enabling you to see and do more during each excursion.

Easier to Make Friends

The intimate nature of small ship cruises allows passengers to cross paths more easily and make connections more rapidly. So whether you’re traveling solo or with a partner, you can be certain that at the end of your cruise you will leave with a group of enthusiastic adventure-loving friends.

Many passengers on small ship cruises value good conversation and quality travel experiences. This makes it very easy to form effortless friendships with like-minded passengers.

Spend Less Time in Line

Waiting in line is undoubtedly one of the most tedious aspects of going on a cruise.

Embarkation, debarkation, tendering (when smaller boats carry passengers from the ship to the shore) and waiting for your turn at the buffet all require standing in line — sometimes for extended periods.

Small cruises mean that far less time is wasted in line, giving passengers more time to mingle with others and enjoy land-based excursions.

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Best Small Ship Alaska Cruises

AAA offers some of the best rated small ship Alaska cruises on the market. With over a century of experience coordinating adventures around the globe, AAA has mastered the skill of creating truly memorable small cruise experiences.

Some of the best small ship cruises to Alaska offered by AAA are detailed in the following sections. Keep in mind that dates, amenities and itineraries are subject to change.

1. Concierge Alaska Wildlife and Frontiers Cruise

This 11 night cruise is aboard the lavish Regatta, a nearly 600-foot ship with nine decks and more than 300 elegant suites. Decked out with elaborate furnishings in every room, a cruise aboard the Regatta is a full immersion into a true life of luxury.

The ship offers four upscale restaurants, eight lounges, and a grand dining hall adorned with chandeliers.

An Alaskan cruise aboard the Regatta includes the following ports of call:

  • Day 1: Seattle (embarkation). Birthplace of grunge music, hipster aesthetics, and coffee connoisseurs, spend a couple of hours exploring Seattle before embarking on your cruise.
  • Day 2: the Outside Passage (cruising). Spend the day peacefully cruising the Pacific (Outside Passage) on your way to Alaska.
  • Day 3: Ketchikan. Celebrate your first day in Alaska by visiting Misty Fjords National Monument or getting lost in Alaska Rainforest Sanctuary’s ethereal beauty.
  • Day 4: Juneau. Juneau is filled with wild, untouched nature scapes. Go on a tour of Mendenhall Glacier or visit Glacier Gardens Rainforest to get a taste-test of the magical beauty that fills Alaska.
  • Day 5: Skagway. Visit the charming home to gold-rush-era buildings now preserved as part of the Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park.
  • Day 6: Icy Strait Point. The next stop on your cruise is Icy Strait Point, a port that is bursting with activities for every kind of traveler. The port features more than 20 unique tours, including one to a historic salmon cannery.
  • Day 7: Sitka. Visit Alaska Raptor Center or Fortress of the Bear to immerse yourself in the quiet nature of Sitka while giving yourself opportunities to spot wildlife.
  • Day 8: Prince Rupert, B.C. This idyllic port is a gateway to rugged wilderness experiences, like bear watching at the Khutzeymateen Grizzly Sanctuary.
  • Day 9: the Inside Passage (cruising). Enjoy sailing through this stunning archipelago on your trip back to the continental US.
  • Day 10: Victoria, B.C. This city is a slice of Europe in America, featuring picturesque colonial architecture, vibrant shopping streets, gorgeous gardens, and many other sights.
  • Day 11: Seattle (disembarkation).

Click here to learn more about this exciting Alaska small ship cruise.

2. Northwest Passage Cruise – In the Wake of the Great Explorers

A 26 day cruise that introduces you to the wild natural beauty of Alaska, Canada, and Greenland, AAA’s Northwest Passage Cruise will satisfy your craving for frosty fjords and majestic arctic wildlife.

This cruise will be carried out aboard the MS Roald Amundsen, a 459-foot ship that was built in 2019. The MS Roald Amundsen is a cutting-edge hybrid ship, enabling it to cut down on CO2-emissions by around 20% and making it a superior, more eco-friendly way to cruise Alaska.

This is considered a small ship cruise as the MS Roald Amundsen can only accommodate just over 500 passengers.

Ports of call on this cruise include:

  • Day 1: Vancouver, B.C. (overnight stay)
  • Day 2: Nome, Alaska (embarkation)
  • Day 3-7: At sea
  • Day 8-17: the Northwest Passage
  • Day 18: Labrador Sea (Baffin Bay & Davis Straight)
  • Day 19: Ilulissat
  • Day 20: Sisimiut
  • Day 21-22: Labrador Sea (cruising)
  • Day 23: Red Bay
  • Day 24: Corner Brook
  • Day 25: At sea
  • Day 26: Halifax (Nova Scotia)

Visit this page to learn more about this small-ship adventure to Alaska.

3. Alaska’s Inside Passage Cruise

This nine-day cruise comes in two options: northbound and southbound .

Both cruises are taken aboard Silversea’s Silver Muse. The ship offers seven passenger decks, a fitness center, spa, jogging track, complimentary WiFi, and butler services.

Being a relatively small ship in comparison to the majority of cruise vessels enables passengers aboard the Silver Shadow to get the full, luxury experience. The ship is outfitted with ample state-of-the-art amenities and customer-focused staff who are there to make your cruise the lavish vacation you’re longing for.

While both the southbound and northbound cruises give you ample immersion into the wild, natural beauty of Alaska, you may prefer one over the other due to slight itinerary differences. Both cruises’ itineraries are detailed below to help you choose the best one for you.Your Northbound cruise includes the following ports of call:

  • Day 1: Vancouver, B.C. (Fairmont Waterfront tour)
  • Day 2: Vancouver, B.C. (Stanley Park, Gastown, Kitsilano Neighborhood, embarkation)
  • Day 3: Ketchikan (cruising)
  • Day 4: Ketchikan (on-shore)
  • Day 5: Sitka
  • Day 6: Skagway
  • Day 7: Juneau
  • Day 8: Juneau (Hubbard Glacier cruising)
  • Day 9: Seward/Anchorage (disembarkation)
  • Day 10: Journey home

Your Southbound cruise stops at the following ports of call:

  • Day 1: Vancouver, B.C. (Hotel Captain Cook tour)
  • Day 2: Kenai Fjords National Park (embarkation)
  • Day 3: Ketchikan (Hubbard Glacier cruising)
  • Day 4: Juneau (passenger’s choice of sightseeing)
  • Day 5: Skagway (historic railway & dog sledding)
  • Day 6: Skagway (sightseeing)
  • Day 7: Ketchikan (on-shore excursions)
  • Day 8: Juneau (B.C. coastal cruising)
  • Day 9: Vancouver (disembarkation & sightseeing)

Wine on board of cruise

Small Ship Cruises Alaska FAQs

If you are leaning towards booking a small Alaska cruise, here are some answers to frequently asked questions regarding small ship cruises.

How Many Guests Can a Small Cruise Have?

The average cruise ship carries around 3,000 passengers — far from most people’s definition of intimate. A small cruise, on the other hand, may have closer to two or three hundred passengers aboard (though, technically speaking, small cruise ships may be able to carry up to 1,000 passengers).

The benefits of embarking on a small, intimate cruise are numerous and give passengers a more luxurious, relaxing experience.

What Is the Best Time to Do a Small Cruise in Alaska?

The best time to cruise Alaska depends on the excursions you want to have, the weather conditions you want to experience, and the crowds you are willing to endure.

Peak cruising season runs from May through September, during which time droves of other tourists will also be congregating at Alaska’s top sights of interest. Even though passengers during this season will have to content themselves with sharing Alaska’s beauty with others, it is the ideal time to catch the best weather for sightseeing and exploration.

If you intend to do a small cruise to Alaska during peak season, make sure that you get your dates locked in and tickets booked well in advance so that you don’t miss out on your Alaskan adventure.

What Amenities Are Provided on a Small Ship Cruise?

Many small ship cruises to Alaska include food, lodging, and on-shore excursions in the booking cost. Other amenities such as WiFi, spa, and onboard entertainment may be included or may be purchased at an additional cost.

The amenities that are included with the purchase of your cruise ticket will depend on the specific cruise package that you buy.

If you have any questions about which amenities are included in AAA’s small ship cruises to Alaska, get in touch with one of our seasoned travel agents today.

What Kinds of Wildlife Will I See During My Alaskan Cruise?

The Last Frontier boasts miles of untouched wilderness inhabited by rare arctic wildlife. Because small cruise ships have the ability to hug the coastline more closely, passengers aboard smaller cruises often see more wildlife than those aboard larger vessels.

Some of the animals that passengers aboard an Alaskan cruise may see include polar bears, whales, walrus, eagles, harbor seals, sea otters, Kodiak brown bears, and puffins.

What Should I Pack For My Small Alaskan Cruise?

While your packing list may vary depending on the season that you visit Alaska during, here are 10 general things that you should never embark on an Alaskan cruise without.

  • Lightweight jacket (preferably waterproof)
  • Clothes that can layer easily
  • Waterproof shoes or boots
  • Waterproof day bag
  • Insect repellent
  • External battery charger
  • Water bottle

What Kinds of Excursions Do Small Ship Cruises Provide?

While on-shore excursions depend on the cruise that you book, many Alaskan cruises include the following types of excursions.

  • Nature walks
  • Fishing excursions
  • Helicopter rides
  • Glacier trekking
  • Horseback riding
  • Kayaking or canoeing
  • Wildlife viewing
  • Scenic railway excursions

If there are specific excursions that you hope to participate in, you should look at cruise itineraries to find one that includes the activities that you would like to do.

Should I Plan My Small Ship Alaska Cruise Myself?

Whether this is your first or fifth Alaskan cruise, having a convenient, professional platform to book through can eliminate stress and ensure that you get the vacation experience that you want.

As a busy individual, you deserve to have a seasoned travel expert take care of the logistics for you so that you can sit back and fully enjoy your time off.

Book a Small Ship Cruise to Alaska With AAA

With AAA’s travel expertise to assist you, you can enjoy a luxurious cruise experience in Alaska’s glorious fjords and glaciers. The Last Frontier truly is a wonderland of nature and wildlife just waiting to be discovered.

If you would like one of AAA’s professional travel agents to assist you in booking your intimate Alaskan cruise, get in touch by calling or emailing one of our travel agents today.

Interested in planning your next road trip with AAA Washington? Call your travel agent directly or your nearest AAA store to get pro tips, TripTik maps, and more. Find more Pacific Northwest scenic drives and road trips .

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3 Alaska Port Cities Worth Exploring

See rugged beauty, Klondike history and Indigenous culture in the Alaska port cities of Skagway, Juneau and Ketchikan.

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Alaska Fjords and Glaciers Cruise

Experience misty fjords national monument and explore parts of the inside passage known for their wildlife viewing and landscapes..

the small cruise ship "Wilderness Explorer" in calm water by a rocky shore

Photo Journey:

deck plans for a small cruise ship showing different cabin types

Home » Tours » Alaska Cruises » Adventure Cruises » Alaska Fjords and Glaciers Cruise

Tour Overview

See Alaska on this glacier cruise adventure in Alaska’s Inside Passage! This adventure cruise sails between Juneau and Ketchikan* and offers unparalleled personal experiences on a small ship.

On this adventure-rich cruise, explore by ship, skiff, kayak, and foot. Wind through canals and explore the Tongass backcountry. Watch for whales, try a paddle-board, and go beachcombing with your companions and expedition leader. Relax in a hot tub before an awe-inspiring glacier, and access remote areas that only the lucky few will ever see.

* NOTE: Cruise may operate in the reverse direction from Ketchikan to Juneau, depending on sailing dates.

What's Included

  • Local transfers & baggage handling on day one and day eight
  • Seven nights accommodations in a private cabin
  • All meals and most alcohol while onboard
  • From-the-boat adventure activities, including kayaking, paddle-boarding, skiff excursions, and hiking
  • Onboard professional naturalists
  • Entry fees to national parks/preserves

What's Not Included

Airfare from/to Juneau/Ketchikan; pre-night hotel in Juneau/Ketchikan; super-premium wine, beer and liquor; port fees and taxes; and gratuities (approx. 10-15% of cruise fare).

Tour Itinerary

Below outline is for the Juneau to Ketchikan sailing. The Ketchikan to Juneau sailing will operate in reverse direction.

Juneau Arrival

In the afternoon, transfer from the airport or hospitality area to your small ship for embarkation. Meals are included on board beginning with dinner tonight, so please arrive no later than 2:30 pm.

Endicott Arm / Fords Terror

Take an early peek out your window to spy fjord cliffs and deep valleys, along with harbor seals and their pups lounging on chunks of floating ice. At the end of Endicott Arm is the blue face of Dawes Glacier. Tides permitting, your skiff driver will guide you along to see towering walls, the Coastal Mountains, and countless waterfalls. Look for mountain goats along the towering cliffs.

Frederick Sound

Humpbacks visit here each season to feed on krill, zooplankton, and herring; watch for them feasting in these abundant glacial waters. Based on wind and weather, your expedition team has the lineup of adventures all mapped out. Cruise past Five Fingers Lighthouse, Alaska’s oldest light station and The Brothers Islands, where sea lions nap on rocks. Paddle into the deeps of Port Houghton or Windham Bay or head ashore for a hike. Tonight, toast another big day in Alaska.

Thomas Bay / Wrangell Narrows

Step into the backcountry of Alaska’s wilderness with glacial landscapes marked by moraines, muskegs, and mud. Kayak and skiff in water almost clear as glass. Hike through the outwash of Baird Glacier. Later, wind into the Wrangell Narrows. Abundant bright red and green navigation lights guide the way, inspiring the nickname “Christmas Tree Lane”.

Blashkee Islands

The Blashkee Islands offer a full day of choose-your-own-adventure fun. Hiking, kayaking, skiff tours, snorkeling, and full day yak-n-whack excursions. Get ready for a full day!

Wildlife abounds in Behm Canal and the surrounding Tongass National Forest. Be on the lookout for black bears, mink and eagles. In the water, porpoises, seals and otters go about their business. On Cleveland Peninsula, your expedition team leads a low-elevation hike near clear, rushing streams. The area offers great opportunities for enticing forested shots of Southeast Alaska. Enjoy a guided paddle in the waterways that feed into Behm Canal.

Misty Fjords National Monument

Also called “the Yosemite of the North”, Misty Fjords National Monument represents nearly every ecosystem found in Southeast Alaska. Glacial valleys filled with sea water and steep, sometimes sheer, walls are a haven for sea birds, bears, mountain goats, and Sitka black-tailed deer. Kayak in Walker Cove or Rudyerd Bay or skiff to the base of a waterfall for a fjord-released shower. This evening, join the captain in a farewell toast and a delicious dinner.

Ketchikan Departure

After breakfast this morning, disembark in Ketchikan at about 9:00am. A transfer to the airport or the Un-Cruise hospitality area is provided. (Please arrange a departure no earlier than 11:30am today)

Listed itinerary is a guideline only! Variations in itinerary and the order of days may occur to maximize your experience!

small ship cruise inside passage

Dates & Rates

*** 2024 Special! Save $500 per person on all departures ***

Dates with a (*) indicate Ketchikan to Juneau sailings!

The listed prices are per person based on double occupancy. Taxes/port fees are $375 per person and are not included in these rates.

Wilderness Discoverer :  76 guests / 34 cabins.  174 feet in length / 39 feet wide

Special Payment Policy: Deposit of 50% is due at time of booking. Final payment is due 90 days prior.

Special Cancellation Policy: Any time after confirmation up to 91 days prior to cruise date:  $250 per person cancellation fee 90 to 61 days prior to cruise date: 70% cancellation fee 60 to 0 days prior to cruise date: 100% cancellation fee

Contact us to book this Tour.

Thank you for your interest in this tour! At this time, it is not currently available to book online. Please feel free to continue to peruse our website for more Alaska travel ideas. If you would like options and information from our team of Alaska experts, please call 1-866-317-3325 or fill out the form below.

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Denali & Glacier Experience

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Starting at: $1919 / pp

By train, travel along the scenic Seward and Portage Glacier Highways before entering the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel, the second-longest tunnel in North America. On arrival in Whittier, embark on the 26 Glacier Cruise with lunch. Enjoy viewing... Browse itinerary

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small ship cruise inside passage

Great Alaskan Road Trip

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Glaciers seen cruising up Alaska's Inside Passage

Alaska's 7-Day Inside Passage Cruise

You’re in for one wild week. This roundtrip Inside Passage cruise from Vancouver delivers spellbinding scenery from narrow fjords to scattered islets and towering peaks. Get close to massive glaciers in Glacier Bay National Park and wait breathlessly for ice to calve off and plunge into the ocean. Inside Passage waters are as smooth as it gets, while on shore you’ll find endless thrills and chills. Fish for salmon in Ketchikan, helicopter onto Mendenhall Glacier in Juneau, or ride the rails along the rugged White Pass Summit in Skagway.

Map of Inside Passage Cruise

Stop into three iconic ports of call and see Alaska’s remote wilderness areas.

Ports of Call on This Cruise

  • Scenic Cruising the Inside Passage
  • Tracy Arm Inlet
  • Glacier Bay

Ships Sailing This Cruise

  • Nieuw Amsterdam

Map of inside passage cruise

Why Take This Cruise?

This Inside Passage cruise docks near Vancouver’s biggest attractions, so you can spend more time sightseeing and less time getting from place to place. Air travel is a breeze with a convenient roundtrip and Saturday or Sunday departures. Features Alaska’s most historic ports and scenic natural wonderlands.

Ice calving from the edge of Glacier Bay, Alaska

Glacier Bay On All Inside Passage Cruises

White Pass & Yukon Railway from Skagway, Alaska

Skagway Stop

Orcas breach the calm waters of Alaska's Inside Passage

Smooth-as-Glass Waters

Cruise Alaska aboard award-winning Koningsdam

Newer Ship: Koningsdam

small ship cruise inside passage

Ice of the Inside Passage - Alaska Cruise

Find the perfect trip.

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£4479.3

* Current p/p indicative rate.

  • Guests will have the opportunity to get up close and personal with seven glaciers, including Margerie, Grand Pacific, Mendenhall, Sawyer, South Sawyer, Dawes, and LeConte.
  • The sound of glaciers calving can be described as "white thunder" and must be experienced in person to fully appreciate.
  • The itinerary includes an exciting, high-speed jet boat adventure to the LeConte Glacier, kayaking, wildlife viewing, and a call to the remote Alaska Native village of Kasaan.
  • Newly exposed ice boasts a brilliant blue color that is perfect for photography.
  • In addition to the seven glaciers, there may be opportunities to view the Lamplugh, Reid, Herbert, Eagle, and Sumdum glaciers as the ship transits the calm waters of the Inside Passage.

small ship cruise inside passage

Glaciers, one of nature’s most awe-inspiring forces, continue to carve and shape Southeast Alaska. As these magnificent “rivers of ice” flow downhill from their ice field accumulation zones, they splinter and calve (break off at the face). The resulting sound can be described as “white thunder”—a powerful rumble that must be experienced in person to fully appreciate. Dense, newly exposed ice boasts a brilliant blue color that is perfect for photography.

“Ice of the Inside Passage” will afford guests the opportunity to get up close and personal with the Margerie, Grand Pacific, Mendenhall, Sawyer, South Sawyer, Dawes, and LeConte glaciers—our most in-depth glacier offering to date! In addition, there may be opportunities to view the Lamplugh, Reid, Herbert, Eagle, and Sumdum glaciers as we transit the calm waters of the Inside Passage. Included in the itinerary fare is an exciting, high-speed jet boat adventure to the LeConte Glacier, plenty of time for viewing the region’s famous wildlife, kayaking, a call to the remote Alaska Native village of Kasaan, and more!

Prices quoted here are often dependent on currency fluctuations. Please check with (01432 507450 or [email protected]) for the very latest price, which may well be cheaper than the one advertised here.

Deluxe Suite

Explore beautiful Sitka, the only community in Southeast Alaska that faces the open ocean waters of the Gulf of Alaska. Visit sites that highlight the community’s rich Alaska Native and Russian history. Embark for the winding narrows north of town while searching for bald eagles, sea otters, bears, whales, and other wildlife.

Venture into Dundas Bay, within the confines of Glacier Bay National Park’s “Outer Bay.” In this secluded area, you’ll experience remarkable solitude as you paddle a shallow water coastline inaccessible to larger craft.

This remarkable national park fjord extends 65-miles, contains eight tidewater glaciers, and provides pristine habitat for a wide-array of wildlife, including both brown and black bears, wolves, mountain goats, Steller sea lions, and humpback whales. The highlight for many is the Margerie Glacier, known for its dramatic calving displays.

Spend the day visiting highlights of the scenic capital city of Juneau, including the world famous Mendenhall Glacier. In downtown Juneau, visit the recently renovated Alaska State Museum. There will also be time to explore on your own. You may choose to visit the Juneau-Douglas City Museum, Alaska State Capitol, or take in the spectacular panoramic views of the Mount Roberts Tram. You can also delve deeper into local Native culture and history by exploring fascinating exhibits, art displays, and a clan house at the Walter Soboleff Center. End the day’s adventure with a relaxing evening at Orca Point Lodge, our own exclusive day-lodge on Colt Island. Enjoy the beautiful grounds, beach, and marine life touch-tank. Dine on Alaska salmon, Alaska crab*, or prime rib from the warmth of the lodge, or nestled next to a beachside bonfire. *Subject to local processor availability

Journey through Tracy Arm, a place the famous naturalist John Muir called “a wild, unfinished Yosemite.” Renowned for its pristine waterfalls, towering icebergs, abundant harbor seals, and granite cliffs that rise from sea level to 4,000 feet, this wilderness is often referred to by locals as one of the most scenic areas in the state.

Enjoy an exciting kayak or skiff expedition in stunning Endicott Arm-a glacial fjord in the Tracy Arm Ford’s Terror Wilderness area. View the impressive Dawes Glacier at the head of the arm. Later, scout for humpback whales and other wildlife in Frederick Sound.

After exploring the charming and historical community of Wrangell, board a comfortable, high-speed jet boat and venture north through Dry Strait to LeConte Bay. En route to the spectacular LeConte Glacier—North America’s southernmost tidewater glacier—you’ll navigate through a maze of glistening ice bergs in the shadows of towering, snow-capped mountains.

Walk an enchanted forest path laden with intricately carved totem poles to the Chief Son-i-Hat Whale-House,— the only remaining traditional Haida longhouse in the United States. Inside stand four original house posts, or “Gáats,” that were most likely carved at Old Kasaan in about 1880.

Disembark in Ketchikan, otherwise known as Alaska’s “First City’ and “Salmon Capital of the World.” Transfer to your hotel or the airport is complimentary.

Itineraries are subject to change.

small ship cruise inside passage

Baranof Dream

small ship cruise inside passage

The Baranof Dream is perfect for adventure in the wilderness waterways. With its shallow draft and stately pace of cruising, nothing will be missed in channels, bays and wilderness islands of Alaska's Inside Passage. Purpose built for expedition cruising this great little ship offers comfortable, practical accommodation. Baranof Dream carries kayaks & enough zodiacs for all passengers, and a custom built kayak/zoodiac dock at the stern. She has plenty of outside viewing areas, a very comfortable lounge-bar and a dining room with large windows. 

The cabins vary in size an are located on 3 decks, All cabins have en-suite shower and W/C, and air conditioning. 

Breakfast, lunch and dinner are all ehave vegetarian and vegan options to complement the local fresh seafood is and meat dishes. An early dawn-breakfast is served in the lounge for early risers. Non-alcoholic drinks are included, as are a glass of house wine or Alaskan beer with your evening meal. Alcohol is included with Deluxe Suite and Deluxe bookings

Select cabins can accommodate a 3rd or 4th guest

Cabin layout for Baranof Dream

9 days from £4479.3

Find your favorite region, similar trips.

  • Expeditions
  • Complimentary Brochures
  • Vancouver, British Columbia to Seward, Alaska
  • Seward, Alaska to Vancouver, British Columbia

Alaska & the Inside Passage

  • From $4,799
  • 7 Guided Tours
  • 2 Countries
  • Dates & Pricing
  • 2024 2025 2026
  • Vancouver, British Columbia to Seward, Alaska Seward, Alaska to Vancouver, British Columbia

Alaska & the Inside Passage Map

Map of Alaska & the Inside Passage itinerary

See the wilds of a great frontier

small ship cruise inside passage

Immerse yourself in Tlingit culture and experience the outpost atmosphere that prevails in charming, mountain-ringed seaside towns. Sail a pristine wilderness of misty fjords, lush forests and gleaming walls of ice, pan for gold like prospectors of old, and hear tales of a region where a Wild West spirit still feels very much alive. Ports and order of ports are subject to change. Refer to the Dates & Pricing itinerary for specific details by departure date.

SPRING SALE

small ship cruise inside passage

Viking Inclusive Value

Pricing that covers everything guests need—and nothing they do not.

Map of Alaska & the Inside Passage itinerary

To learn more about each port of call and our included as well as optional excursions, click on the individual days below.

Itinerary and shore excursions are subject to change and may vary by departure.

More features, services and excursions included

One complimentary shore excursion in every port of call

Free Wi-Fi (connection speed may vary)

Beer, wine & soft drinks with onboard lunch & dinner

24-hour specialty coffees, teas  & bottled water

Port taxes & fees

Ground transfers with Viking Air purchase

Visits to UNESCO Sites

Enrichment lectures & Destination Performances

Complimentary access to The Nordic Spa & Fitness Center.

Self-service launderettes

Alternative restaurant dining at no extra charge

24-hour room service

Your Stateroom Includes:

King-size Viking Explorer Bed with luxury linen

42" flat-screen LCD TV with intuitive remote & complimentary Movies On Demand

Large private bathroom with spacious glass-enclosed shower, heated floor, anti-fog mirror & hair dryer

Premium Freyja® toiletries

Direct-dial satellite phone & cell service

Security safe

110/220 volt outlets

Ample USB ports

Pre & Post Cruise Extensions

More days means more to discover, with extension packages you can add before or after your Viking cruise or cruisetour. Enjoy additional days to explore your embarkation or disembarkation city, or see a new destination altogether with a choice of exciting cities. Pre & Post Cruise Extensions vary by itinerary and are subject to change.

small ship cruise inside passage

Pre: Vancouver

From $1,099 | 2 Nights

small ship cruise inside passage

Pre: Rocky Mountaineer Journey—5 Nights

From $4,999 | 5 Nights

small ship cruise inside passage

Pre: Rocky Mountaineer Journey—6 Nights

From $5,599 | 6 Nights

small ship cruise inside passage

Post: Anchorage

small ship cruise inside passage

Post: Denali Explorer

From $3,599 | 5 Nights

small ship cruise inside passage

Post: Pristine Alaska

From $3,999 | 6 Nights

small ship cruise inside passage

Post: Natural Alaska

From $3,799 | 6 Nights

On this itinerary, your Viking Resident Historian is delivering the following iconic lectures:

  • - The Pacific Northwest – Exploration & Development
  • - Indigenous People of the Pacific Northwest
  • - Glaciers - Rivers of Ice

small ship cruise inside passage

Viking Resident Historian

As part of our onboard cultural enrichment program and commitment to destination-focused learning, our Viking Resident Historian faculty provides guests with lectures and roundtable discussions on the arts, architecture, music and culture of upcoming ports and various aspects of world history.

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Alaska Small Ship Cruises & Tours

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  • Seattle : From Seattle-Tacoma International Airport (SEA), you can find numerous flights connecting to major Alaskan cities like Anchorage, Fairbanks, and Juneau. Additionally, Seattle is also a popular embarkation point for Alaska cruises.
  • Vancouver : Vancouver International Airport (YVR) in Canada is another excellent option for international travelers. Vancouver offers direct flights to Alaska, particularly to cities like Anchorage and Juneau. It's also a significant departure point for Alaskan cruises.
  • Juneau (JNU): Juneau, Alaska's capital, features the Juneau International Airport (JNU). This airport primarily handles domestic flights but serves as a key entry and departure point for travelers exploring the southeastern part of the state on a small ship cruise.
  • Sitka (SIT): The  Rocky Gutierrez Airport is just outside of Sitka, a major embarkation and disembarkation point for small ship cruises has daily departures to/from Seattle and Anchorage.
  • Ketchikan (KTN): Ketchikan is situated in the scenic Inside Passage region and is home to the Ketchikan International Airport (KTN). This airport primarily serves travelers arriving by air to explore the southeastern coastal areas of Alaska.
  • Anchorage (ANC): Anchorage, the largest city in Alaska, boasts the Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport (ANC). This major transportation hub welcomes travelers from around the world. Anchorage serves as a primary gateway to the state, offering a variety of flights, including international connections.
  • Fairbanks (FAI): Fairbanks is another Alaskan city with an international airport, the Fairbanks International Airport (FAI). Located in the interior of the state, Fairbanks is a popular starting point for those exploring Alaska's interior and northern regions.

Small Alaska Cruise Ships vs. Large Ships

  • Uncruise Adventures .  Based in Seattle specializes in small ship cruises to Alaska for fewer than 100 passengers and a variety of high-quality itineraries. 
  • Lindblad Expeditions (National Geographic) .  The National Geographic Quest  leads the Lindblad fleet in Alaska and is accompanied by the Sea Bird and Sea Lion on exceptional itineraries that focus on wildlife and the environment.
  • Ponant has a fleet of luxury class small ships that do unconventional itineraries, including the Northeast Passage , bringing French know-how to the fore.
  • Silversea Expeditions  offers high-end mid-sized ships cruising Alaska including the Silver Wind , Silver Muse , and Silver Shadow .
  • Aurora Expeditions . Founded by explorer Greg Mortimer. Small and intimate ships, including the  Sylvia Earle . Sustainable cruises in remote destinations.
  • Friday Harbor: Your cruise may lead you to Friday Harbor, a serene seaside town known for its captivating Whale Museum. Here, you can delve into the world of marine life and gain insights into the majestic creatures that inhabit these waters.
  • San Juan Islands: Explore the enchanting San Juan Islands, a renowned haven for spotting orcas. These pristine waters offer you a chance to witness these magnificent marine mammals in their natural habitat.
  • Vancouver : British Columbia's largest city and a major Canadian port on the Pacific, beckons you with its cosmopolitan charm and natural beauty. Explore its lively neighborhoods, dine on world-class cuisine, and soak in the stunning views.
  • Prince Rupert: Home to North America's deepest natural harbor, this city serves as the perfect gateway to further adventures in the north.
  • Johnstone Strait, Alert Bay, & Seymour Narrows: These destinations offer exceptional opportunities to spot orcas and also provide a rich tapestry of indigenous culture, with well-preserved traditions waiting to be explored.
  • Gulf Islands: Nestled in the Strait of Georgia, the Gulf Islands are a haven for wildlife enthusiasts. Immerse yourself in the wonders of this pristine paradise, where nature's beauty knows no bounds.
  • Princess Royal Island: The largest island in British Columbia, captivates with its fjords and inlets. Witness the untamed wilderness of the Pacific Northwest in all its glory.

The Wildlife of Alaska

  • Land mammals: Grizzly & black bears and the elusive polar bears (only in the far north) are sights to behold, as well as moose, caribou, and smaller furbearing animals like marten, mink, wolves, and dawes sheep.
  • Marine mammals: Humpback whales, orcas, belgua whales, bowhead whales, harbor seals, , sea lions, sea otters, and walrus can all be found here.
  • Birds : Bald eagles & golden eagles are the most famous, but you'll also find ptarmigans, loons, owls, swans, and puffins. 
  • Fish : There are five species of salmon that thrive in these cold northern waters, making up an important part of the food chain.
  • Summer (June to August):  During the summer months, the Far North, Interior, Southwest, and South Central regions bask in warm temperatures, with average highs reaching 72°F in July. This season provides the ideal backdrop for outdoor adventures, including hiking, fishing, and embracing up to 20 hours of daylight in June. The Inside Passage also offers a delightful summer escape, with mild temperatures and an average high of 65°F in July. It's the perfect time to explore fjords and witness abundant wildlife during up to 18 hours of daylight.
  • Winter (December to February): In the Far North and Interior regions, you'll experience frigid temperatures, often plummeting to an average low of -22°F in February. However, it's also the prime time to witness the enchanting Northern Lights dancing across the Arctic sky. The Southwest and South Central regions offer a winter wonderland with temperatures ranging from 0-21°F, inviting outdoor enthusiasts to partake in activities like snowmobiling and cross-country skiing. Meanwhile, the Southeast & Inside Passage offers mild winters with an average low of 22°F in January, making it an ideal time to witness breathtaking glacier formations and explore charming coastal towns.
  • Spring (March to May): As winter transitions to spring, Alaska undergoes a fascinating transformation. The Far North and Interior regions see the gradual thawing of landscapes, offering a unique opportunity to witness the rebirth of Arctic ecosystems and observe migratory birds returning to their nesting grounds. In the Southwest and South Central regions, spring brings a balanced mix of thawing landscapes and still-chilly waters, creating a perfect setting for spotting sea lions, puffins, and other coastal wildlife during cruises. The Southeast & Inside Passage welcomes budding trees and a sense of renewal in its coastal rainforests.
  • Autumn (September to November): Autumn in Alaska ushers in cooler temperatures and a riot of vibrant fall foliage. In the Far North and Interior regions, this season provides the final opportunity for wildlife enthusiasts to observe Arctic animals before the onset of winter. The Southwest and South Central regions offer crisp air and stunning coastal views during the salmon spawning season, with the chance to witness bears feasting on this natural spectacle. Meanwhile, the Southeast & Inside Passage delights in a mosaic of fall colors in its rainforests, making it an ideal time for hiking and exploring coastal communities.

The Best Time to go on an Alaska Cruise

  • Glacier Bay National Park : A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Glacier Bay offers a mesmerizing landscape featuring towering glaciers, pristine fjords, and abundant wildlife. Immerse yourself in the park's beauty through hiking, camping, and wildlife viewing.
  • Inside Passage : A breathtaking network of islands and waterways, the Inside Passage showcases Alaska's stunning scenery and diverse wildlife. Take a scenic cruise or ferry ride to experience the unparalleled beauty and adventure of this iconic route.
  • Denali National Park : Located in the heart of Alaska, Denali National Park boasts the continent's tallest mountain peak, Denali itself. It's a haven for wildlife enthusiasts, where grizzly bears, moose, and caribou roam freely. Explore the park's scenic hiking trails!
  • Endicott Arm : This narrow fjord in Southeast Alaska is a well-kept secret, adorned with awe-inspiring glaciers, towering waterfalls, and abundant wildlife, including humpback whales and harbor seals. Explore its wonders on a boat tour or kayak adventure.
  • Frederick Sound : Renowned as a premier destination for humpback whale watching, Frederick Sound offers captivating encounters with these majestic creatures. Join tours or kayak expeditions to witness humpback whales, sea lions, porpoises, and eagles.
  • Kenai Fjords National Park : A coastal gem celebrated for its awe-inspiring glaciers, marine wildlife, and fjords. Engage in kayaking, hiking, or wildlife viewing to soak in its beauty.
  • Lake Clark National Park and Katmai National Park : These parks in southwestern Alaska showcase pristine wilderness, abundant wildlife, and unique geological features.
  • Misty Fjords : A wilderness paradise that showcases Southeast Alaska's dramatic landscapes of towering granite cliffs, pristine lakes, and cascading waterfalls.
  • Matanuska Glacier : Located in the Matanuska Valley, this glacier is a natural wonder. Visitors can take guided tours to explore its icy expanse.
  • Turnagain Arm : A picturesque inlet along the southern edge of the Anchorage area, Turnagain Arm offers stunning views, including the famous bore tide phenomenon.
  • Resurrection Bay : Located near Seward, Resurrection Bay is known for its scenic beauty, wildlife, and outdoor activities such as kayaking and wildlife cruises.

Unexpected History

  • Juneau :  Alaska's capital city offers the best of both worlds as an airport city and a cruise departure port. Visitors have the opportunity to explore Alaska's rich history, culture, and outdoor wonders before or after their cruise adventure. Juneau's Auke Bay is a major cruise ship dock.
  • Ketchikan : Often referred to as the "Salmon Capital of the World," Ketchikan is a vibrant cruise departure port nestled in the southeastern part of Alaska. Cruise ships dock at the Ketchikan Cruise Ship Berths, allowing passengers to immerse themselves in the town's charming atmosphere and explore its rich native culture.
  • Sitka : Sitka, a town steeped in Russian and Tlingit heritage, is a popular cruise destination and departure port. Cruise ships dock at the Sitka Cruise Terminal, granting easy access to the town's historical sites and natural beauty along the Pacific Ocean.
  • Skagway : Nestled in the renowned Inside Passage, this historic gold rush town is also a significant port town for day visits.
  • Seward : Located on the picturesque Kenai Peninsula, Seward is a popular cruise port town. =
  • Anchorage : This bustling metropolis seamlessly blends urban amenities with natural beauty. The city is home to Alaska's busiest airport, ideal for travelers with daily flights from global destinations. It also provides access to Denali National Park and Fairbanks.
  • Kodiak Island : This rugged and picturesque island promises a remarkable wilderness experience. Hiking, fishing, and wildlife viewing unveil the island's stunning natural beauty.
  • Nome : Once a historic gold-rush town, Nome has transformed into a thriving hub of Inupiat culture. Visitors can delve into its unique history, and soak in the natural beauty of the tundra and beaches.
  • Authentic Alaska experience: Wilderness lodges provide an authentic Alaskan experience with breathtaking views and a chance to get away from it all.
  • Various activities: Most wilderness lodges and itineraries will make sure to include fascinating activities such as guided hikes, fishing, wildlife viewing, whale watching, kayaking, stand-up paddleboarding, and more.
  • Off the beaten path: Wilderness lodges are remote and exclusive, with neighbors being as far away as 40 miles. Sometimes, the only way to get there is by small boat or air taxi, providing an opportunity to truly be on your own.
  • Lavish amenities: Wilderness lodges offer high-end accommodations, personalized hospitality, and a menu of activities to choose from during your adventure. Some amenities to look forward to in most wilderness lodges include spas, hot tubs, gyms, and high-end toiletries. 
  • Personalized service: Hosts at wilderness lodges are friendly and passionate about Alaska. Specific needs and interests can usually be catered to. 
  • Luxurious accommodations: Some wilderness lodges offer the most luxurious accommodations in Alaska, complete with gourmet cuisine, wine tastings, high-thread-count linens, and expert guides.
  • In-depth exploration: Wilderness lodges can be added to any land tour or cruise or can be your entire Alaska vacation, making for a deeper exploration of the State.
  • Indigenous Alaska: The indigenous communities of Alaska, including the Alaska Natives such as the Inupiat, Yupik, and Athabascan, as well as various Native American groups like the Tlingit, Haida, and Aleut, have inhabited these lands for millennia. Their cultures are deeply woven into the fabric of Alaska, expressed through vibrant art, dance, and storytelling. Visitors can witness traditional ceremonies, explore native villages, and even acquire handmade crafts that bear the legacy of these ancient cultures.
  • Historic Gold Rush Towns: Alaska's history is marked by gold rushes that lured fortune seekers from across the globe. Towns like Skagway, Nome, and Fairbanks provide a glimpse into the frontier spirit of the past. Stroll down wooden boardwalks, visit historic saloons, and discover the tales of pioneers who braved the harsh wilderness in search of gold.
  • Arts and Craftsmanship: Alaska is a hub of artistic creativity. Local artisans craft exquisite jewelry, intricate ivory carvings, and stunning indigenous art. Galleries and cultural centers showcase these masterpieces, offering a chance to admire the skill and passion behind each creation.
  • Culinary Delights: Alaska's culinary scene reflects its diverse heritage. Savor fresh seafood, including succulent salmon and king crab, as well as dishes influenced by indigenous traditions. Indigenous ingredients like wild berries, fireweed shoots, and reindeer sausage are integral to Alaskan cuisine.
  • Alaska's Museums: Numerous museums and heritage centers dot the state, preserving its history and culture. Explore the Alaska Native Heritage Center in Anchorage, delve into aviation history at the Alaska Aviation Heritage Museum, or learn about the state's Russian heritage at the Russian Bishop's House in Sitka.
  • Festivals and Celebrations: Alaska hosts a myriad of festivals celebrating its culture throughout the year. The Alaska State Fair in Palmer, the Sitka Summer Music Festival, and the Anchorage Fur Rendezvous are just a few examples. These events offer a lively immersion into Alaskan traditions, from music and dance to art and cuisine.
  • Northern Lights and Indigenous Stories: The mystical Northern Lights, or Aurora Borealis, hold a special place in Alaska's folklore. Indigenous communities, such as the Alaska Natives, have their own captivating stories about these celestial displays, adding a layer of cultural enchantment to the natural phenomenon. If you want to observe this natural phenomenon, let us help you find the most suitable Alaska cruise or tour.
  • Other Cultural Experiences: Additionally, while traveling through Alaska, consider exploring the state's iconic natural wonders, such as the Alaska Railroad that traverses breathtaking landscapes, and the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center, where native wildlife thrives in a protected environment.

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Small Ships Flourish In Alaska

This article originally appeared in the March issue of AGENTatHOME magazine.  Subscribe here to receive your free copy each month.

Alaska has long been a popular destination for fans of small-ship cruising. Beginning in the early 1980s and continuing into the 1990s, companies such as Lindblad Expeditions and UnCruise Adventures, along with now-defunct lines like Alaska Sightseeing/Cruise West and Glacier Bay Cruiseline, helped to popularize the niche. Today, a number of different brands serve this burgeoning market, each offering a distinct small-ship experience and a range of itineraries.

The traditional appeal of small ships is their ability to go where the big ships can’t. Small ships get closer to shore, maximizing wildlife-viewing opportunities. They also are more intimate and immersive, said UnCruise Adventures . “Fewer passengers result in a more close-knit community on board, allowing for personalized service and attention from the crew,” the line explained, adding, “Small ships tend to have a smaller ecological footprint, which is crucial in preserving the pristine nature of Alaska.”

Altogether, there are some 17 vessels spread mainly over four small-ship cruise lines. Many are in expansion mode, offering new itineraries and new destinations for Alaska-bound travelers.

Alaskan Dream Cruises

The line is introducing a nine-day “Ice of the Inside Passage” itinerary for 2024 aboard the 49-passenger Baranof Dream visiting seven different Southeast Alaska glaciers up close, with the chance to see five more glaciers from a distance. The cruise will sail from Sitka to Glacier Bay National Park and Juneau, and then visit the Haida community of Kasaan, before concluding in Ketchikan.

The company is Alaska’s only Indigenous-owned cruise line, run by the Allen family of Sitka, who are of Tlingit descent. Five itineraries of six to nine days are available for 2024 aboard four ships carrying 40 to 80 passengers. One additional vessel – the 12-passenger Kruzof Explorer, a former Bering Sea crab-fishing boat converted for expedition cruising – is available for smallgroup charters. ADC’s trips focus on kayaking and hiking in secluded wilderness areas with an emphasis on cultural immersion.

American Cruise Lines

The company is adding new national parks cruise-tours to its Alaska offerings in 2024, which combine guided explorations in Denali National Park and Kenai Fjords National Park along with smallship cruising in Glacier Bay National Park. The seven-day land portion of these 16- or 19-day itineraries travels from Fairbanks to Juneau, where passengers board their ship for nine or 12 days of cruising the Inside Passage with stops in Skagway, Sitka, Petersburg and Wrangell.

American’s sole ship in Alaska is the 170-passenger American Constellation, which will sail on three different 2024 itineraries: a nineday “Southeast Alaska” cruise roundtrip from Juneau; a 12-day “Alaska Explorer Cruise,” also roundtrip from Juneau; and a 16-day “Alaska Inside Passage” cruise one-way between Seattle and Juneau. The line focuses on traditional port-to-port cruises, which makes it somewhat unique among Alaska’s smallship operators, and includes complimentary hotel stays, port charges and gratuities in its fares.

Lindblad Expeditions

Demand for its smallship cruises is so strong, Lindblad has added departures on its 2024 Southeast Alaska itineraries. These include a mix of longer itineraries that cover the entire length of the Inside Passage and shorter cruises that explore the hidden channels and uninhabited corners of the Alaska panhandle. Of special note is “A Remarkable Journey” to Alaska, British Columbia and Haida Gwaii,” a 15-day itinerary that spends four days in Haida Gwaii – the ancestral territory of the Haida Nation. Lindblad has secured special access to this UNESCO World Heritage Site, where passengers learn from Haida interpreters about their Native culture and have the opportunity to explore these remote islands.

Lindblad offers a wide variety of port-to-port itineraries combined with wilderness activities led by a team of naturalists and other experts. In addition to its four coastal-type vessels carrying 62 to 100 passengers, Lindblad operates expedition ships in the Arctic.

UnCruise Adventures

The line is plying new waters in 2024 and 2025. In May, it will launch its inaugural cruises of Prince William Sound. The eight-day “Prince William Sound Explorer” itinerary sails roundtrip from Whittier aboard the 36-passenger Safari Explorer. One highlight of this cruise is the chance to call at Cordova, a remote fishing village on the eastern side of the sound that has caught the attention of cruise ships lately. The itinerary will be repeated next year, along with the company’s first-ever cruises to the Aleutian Islands, sailing for 11 days between Whittier and Dutch Harbor via Kodiak Island.

UnCruise fields Alaska’s largest smallship fleet with seven vessels carrying 22 to 88 passengers. As its name suggests, it focuses on outdoor activities in hidden coves and secluded bays for a different kind of cruise experience. Eleven itineraries are scheduled for this year and next; some departures are sold as adult-only or family-only cruises.

Expedition Options

Besides Alaska’s U.S.-flagged coastal-style ships, several foreign-flagged expedition vessels visit the 49th state during the cruise season.

While they are somewhat larger than their coastal counterparts, they still can be considered small – especially when compared with the 4,000-passenger megaships sailing in the region.

Such choices for this upcoming Alaska season include HX’s 530-passenger Roald Amundsen (the only hybrid-powered cruise ship operating in coastal Alaskan waters), Hapag-Lloyd Cruises’ 230-passenger HANSEATIC spirit, Lindblad Expeditions 238-passenger National Geographic Resolution and PONANT’s yachtlike, 264-passenger Le Soleal.

Although they are often built for polar exploration, these vessels also cruise the more temperate waters of the Gulf of Alaska and Inside Passage with naturalists and other scientists aboard.

Alaska Inside Passage Mountain Range

15 Alaska cruise mistakes you never want to make

Melinda Crow

For many, an Alaska cruise is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. You don't want to screw it up because you might not get the chance for a do-over. Unfortunately, it's easier than you think to make Alaska cruise mistakes that can ruin a trip or prevent you from experiencing Alaska to the fullest.

While cruises to the Last Frontier are not polar-cruise-level adventures, they require more careful planning than for a Mexico or Caribbean sailing. You need to get all the details right, from booking the cruise and packing your bags to what to do and see during your cruise.

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Here's a list of things you should never do on an Alaska cruise. Avoid these Alaska cruise mistakes, and you'll be on your way to a smooth sailing.

Alaska cruise planning mistakes to avoid

No matter how many times you've cruised before, you might be shocked at how much planning you need to do for an Alaska sailing. Get these things wrong, and you might miss out on your big Alaska cruise experience.

Assume all Alaska cruises are the same

small ship cruise inside passage

This is an easy mistake to make on your first Alaska cruise. However, matching your ship and itinerary to your expectations and travel style is crucial for a successful trip.

Are you looking for a full day of glacier time? Try a midseason sailing that visits Glacier Bay National Park . Early and late-season cruises might be unable to access the glaciers on their itineraries due to ice floes.

Want to see whales? A round-trip Alaska cruise in June is ideal. Do you want to fish for salmon? You'll want to book at the peak of the salmon fishing season, from mid-June to mid-August. Ketchikan is the salmon capital of the world, and while most cruises stop there, a few don't, so make sure it's on the itinerary if you wish to fish.

Are you taking kids on your Alaska cruise? Big ships often have more for kids to do on board, which might be more important than where the ship goes. Expedition-style cruises may have less for youngsters but appeal to independent teens. These voyages offer a more intimate and close-up Alaska experience, with outings on kayaks and Zodiac boats that launch directly from the ship.

Wait to book excursions

You don't have to worry about booking tours in advance in some cruise destinations. Alaska cruises are not like that.

Alaska shore excursions fill up fast. It's worse in midsummer, but even on shoulder season sailings, you may not find space on the excursions you hoped to do if you wait until you're on the ship to book. The only solution is to sign up for tours as early as possible.

Does this mean you shouldn't take advantage of last-minute Alaska cruise deals if you find them? Of course not. Snap those babies up — just come prepared with a list of second and third choices of excursions, just in case.

Related: Tips for booking the best cruise shore excursion for your money

Overlook independent excursions

You don't have to stick with ship-sponsored shore excursions in every port in Alaska. On my last Alaska cruise, we booked kayaking independently for our stop in Ketchikan. It was one of the best experiences of the entire cruise. The company picked us up and dropped us off at the cruise ship. We were guaranteed an on-time return to the ship and paid far less than for the ship's kayaking excursions.

If you want to check out independent tours , you can find several Alaska excursion aggregators online or deal directly with independent businesses. Make sure you inquire about tour timing and leave a buffer so you won't miss your ship even if there's traffic or a delay.

Book same-day flights on embarkation day or early flights home

You don't want to find yourself stuck in an airport because of a flight delay when you should be boarding your cruise. To avoid this problem, book your flights to arrive the day before your cruise departs rather than the same day.

If you think it can't happen to you, listen to my most recent flight horror story. I was on not one but two flights on the same day, where minor mechanical problems caused deplaning and two-hour delays. I should have landed at my destination at 11:30 a.m. but didn't arrive until after 5 p.m. Had that been embarkation day, my ship would have sailed without me.

Similarly, it's always best to book departing flights home for the afternoon in case the ship is delayed returning to port or is not cleared by authorities on time. If you're flying in or out of Anchorage, know that all transportation options include several hours of travel from the ports of Seward and Whittier; you might consider overnighting in Anchorage either pre- or post-cruise to play it safe.

Skip the travel insurance

Airline issues aside, Alaska can be a wee bit hazardous. You will encounter slippery slopes and rocky roads — and that's just walking through Alaska port towns. You might be participating in more daring activities than normal, such as flying in helicopters, hiking across glaciers, kayaking icy waters or zip lining through forests. It's easy for something to go wrong.

On my last Alaska cruise, I heard about two passenger emergencies. A kid broke an arm on the ship and needed surgery, so a family of five disembarked in Ketchikan — not exactly a cheap end to their vacation, I'm guessing. Later in the sailing, a sick passenger was airlifted directly off the ship by the Canadian Coast Guard before we made it to Victoria.

If you live in the U.S., your health insurance is most likely valid in Alaska. You'll be covered for medical expenses but not the other expenses associated with any injury that interrupts your cruise. Travel insurance is the way to go unless you want to pay for flight changes and medical evacuation out of pocket.

Related: The best cruise travel insurance plans

Alaska cruise packing mistakes to avoid

small ship cruise inside passage

Packing for an Alaska cruise can be tricky. The region's unpredictable weather means it can be rainy and 50 degrees one day, then sunny and 85 degrees the next. Mix in boat rides and glacier watching from the ship at 6 a.m., and you have a complicated packing job ahead of you. Don't make these Alaska cruise packing mistakes.

Forget your rain gear

Rule No. 1 on Alaska cruises: Pack rain gear. It might not rain one drop on your cruise, but chances are good that the weather will be wet at some point on your trip. When it does, you'll want the right gear to stay dry and not be drippy and miserable.

Waterproof shoes or boots are a must. For extra protection, spray them with a water-repellant sealer before you pack. You can stow lightweight raincoats or ponchos and pull-on rain pants in your backpack during excursions when you don't need them.

Skimp on layers

Layers are the only way to dress on an Alaska cruise. Start with thin, base-layer undergarments that won't bulk up your clothes and are comfortable even if the day turns out warmer than expected. The final layers of outerwear should be lightweight because you may need to stuff them in your backpack for half the day as the temperature rises.

I especially like puffy vests and jackets for Alaska. You can shed the jacket as temperatures allow, then lose the vest if it gets even warmer. Top everything with caps, knit hats, earmuffs and gloves. Those things might be excessive for a stroll through town but important in the wind on a whale watching boat.

Related: Cruise packing list: The ultimate guide to what to pack for a cruise

Overpack on eveningwear

The dress code on most Alaska cruises is more relaxed than in other cruise destinations. Days are long and outdoorsy, leaving people less enthusiastic about rushing back to the ship to put on fancy clothes and dress shoes.

Trade out your hiking shoes for comfy flats or dress sneakers. Jazz up casual, neutral-colored slacks (even jeans) or skirts with jackets or scarves. You can leave the formalwear and high heels at home.

Cheap out on insect repellant

Mosquitoes in Alaska aren't always a nuisance, but they can be horrendous. Pack insect repellant and full-coverage clothing as though you were planning to visit a rainforest ... because you are.

If you don't plan on checking a bag, pick up bug spray in your departure city or first port of call.

Leave the binoculars and cameras at home

One question I get asked often is whether you can see whales and other wildlife from the ship. The answer is a resounding yes. Unfortunately, much of what you will see is from a distance.

You can solve that problem with a pair of lightweight binoculars. They're also useful for getting a close-up view of glaciers or spotting eagles in port. Consider bringing a pair for everyone in your group because you don't want to fight over one pair when a pod of whales comes into view.

As for cameras, I recommend that everyone in your travel group has a water-resistant camera or a waterproof smartphone case or pouch. I lean toward cameras rather than phones for two reasons. One, most cameras dropped into the depths of an Alaskan bay pose a less traumatic loss than most smartphones. My second reason is in the next section.

Related: Can you use your cellphone on a cruise?

Mistakes to avoid during your Alaska cruise

small ship cruise inside passage

Once you're on board your ship, it's time to put all the stress of planning and packing behind you. You've made it, and you don't want to let anything get in the way of enjoying your cruise.

Stare at your phone too much

An Alaska cruise is the ideal time to hit pause on your digital life. Sure, you want to capture the amazing scenery, but you know what? Few of the pictures you take will accurately portray the scale of the beauty of Alaska.

The photos you'll enjoy most when you look back next year are the ones of your travel partners enjoying the trip. Take those, then spend your time soaking up the enchantment of this place. The news, the email correspondence and your Instagram followers can take a back seat until you're back home.

Assume the seas will be smooth

Don't be surprised if you feel seasick in Alaska's waters, even if no other cruise has made you feel that way. Cruising through the Inside Passage is generally calm, but the open waters of the Pacific Ocean can be choppy. Even the bays can churn up quickly during summer storms.

Ships also do a lot of maneuvering, including turning complete circles designed to give everyone on board access to the amazing views. Unfortunately, those tight turns can contribute to nausea for some people.

Prepare by packing motion sickness relief bands you place on pressure points on your wrists, prescription scopolamine transdermal patches, ginger candies, over-the-counter seasickness medications and herbal motion sickness patches. I've used these for years, with only one failure on a rather small ship.

You can also treat the woozies with seasickness tablets, which are often available free at the medical center or guest services, green apples from the buffet and ginger ale from your ship's friendly bartenders. Related: How to avoid seasickness on your next cruise

Spend all your time indoors

You packed all those clothing layers — now's the time to use them. The coldest part of your Alaska cruise will likely be while the ship cruises through can't-miss scenery. Don't wimp out in an observation lounge. Bundle up and head outside to fully take in the view. Your balcony may give you an edge over the folks in interior rooms, but you won't get a 360-degree vista unless you're out on the top deck.

The best souvenir advice I've received is to buy a cozy throw or blanket at your first port stop. It won't cost a fortune and will serve a purpose for the rest of the cruise. Picture yourself cozy and warm in your fuzzy Alaska souvenir blanket, sipping hot chocolate while watching glaciers calving. Once home, you'll remember your epic vacation every time you snuggle up on the couch.

Sleep through your vacation

This is not a cruise you want to sleep through — and even if that's your plan, you may have difficulty accomplishing it. Long hours of daylight, excursions and glacier viewings that start early and even your own fear of missing out can have you out of bed early and staying up later than you might on any other cruise.

Sleep apps and eye masks may help with the daylight situation. I also find that Alaska cruises are ideal for ordering room service meals. It definitely saves time before morning excursions and can provide a bit of downtime in your cabin for lunch or dinner on occasion.

Fail to try something new

Your Alaska cruise offers many opportunities to try things you might never have the chance to do again. You could walk on glaciers, snorkel in a dry suit in the frigid Alaska waters or play with sled dog puppies. Or, how about riding in a sled pulled by sled dogs? We already mentioned salmon fishing, which is surprisingly fun, even if you'd never go fishing at home.

The array of things to try in Alaska can be as tame or as adventurous as you want — it's the joy of discovery that's key. I once kayaked in Ketchikan with a woman on her first solo cruise in Alaska. She'd never kayaked before. When our marine biologist guide pulled a sea cucumber from the crystal-clear waters to show us, she squealed with delight when he offered to let her hold it. That's the kind of joy you cruise to Alaska to experience.

Bottom line

You can avoid the most common Alaska cruise mistakes with a little extra planning.

The goal is to have the Alaska cruise experience you and your travel companions long for. Achieve that by choosing an itinerary that gets you to the things you want to see and do, shopping early for excursions (especially the ones you have your heart set on) and packing gear and clothes that will keep you comfy during your Alaska adventure.

Everything else is about stepping outside, breathing in the shockingly clean air and enjoying the cruise.

Planning an Alaska cruise? Start with these stories:

  • Everything you need to know about booking a trip to Alaska with points and miles
  • The 9 best Alaska cruises for every type of traveler in 2024
  • 6 best Alaska cruises for families
  • 20 must-have cruise items — including a roll of duct tape

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Crying Myself to Sleep on the Biggest Cruise Ship Ever

Seven agonizing nights aboard the Icon of the Seas

photo of Icon of the Seas, taken on a long railed path approaching the stern of the ship, with people walking along dock

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Updated at 2:44 p.m. ET on April 6, 2024.

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MY FIRST GLIMPSE of Royal Caribbean’s Icon of the Seas, from the window of an approaching Miami cab, brings on a feeling of vertigo, nausea, amazement, and distress. I shut my eyes in defense, as my brain tells my optic nerve to try again.

The ship makes no sense, vertically or horizontally. It makes no sense on sea, or on land, or in outer space. It looks like a hodgepodge of domes and minarets, tubes and canopies, like Istanbul had it been designed by idiots. Vibrant, oversignifying colors are stacked upon other such colors, decks perched over still more decks; the only comfort is a row of lifeboats ringing its perimeter. There is no imposed order, no cogent thought, and, for those who do not harbor a totalitarian sense of gigantomania, no visual mercy. This is the biggest cruise ship ever built, and I have been tasked with witnessing its inaugural voyage.

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“Author embarks on their first cruise-ship voyage” has been a staple of American essay writing for almost three decades, beginning with David Foster Wallace’s “A Supposedly Fun Thing I’ll Never Do Again,” which was first published in 1996 under the title “Shipping Out.” Since then, many admirable writers have widened and diversified the genre. Usually the essayist commissioned to take to the sea is in their first or second flush of youth and is ready to sharpen their wit against the hull of the offending vessel. I am 51, old and tired, having seen much of the world as a former travel journalist, and mostly what I do in both life and prose is shrug while muttering to my imaginary dachshund, “This too shall pass.” But the Icon of the Seas will not countenance a shrug. The Icon of the Seas is the Linda Loman of cruise ships, exclaiming that attention must be paid. And here I am in late January with my one piece of luggage and useless gray winter jacket and passport, zipping through the Port of Miami en route to the gangway that will separate me from the bulk of North America for more than seven days, ready to pay it in full.

The aforementioned gangway opens up directly onto a thriving mall (I will soon learn it is imperiously called the “Royal Promenade”), presently filled with yapping passengers beneath a ceiling studded with balloons ready to drop. Crew members from every part of the global South, as well as a few Balkans, are shepherding us along while pressing flutes of champagne into our hands. By a humming Starbucks, I drink as many of these as I can and prepare to find my cabin. I show my blue Suite Sky SeaPass Card (more on this later, much more) to a smiling woman from the Philippines, and she tells me to go “aft.” Which is where, now? As someone who has rarely sailed on a vessel grander than the Staten Island Ferry, I am confused. It turns out that the aft is the stern of the ship, or, for those of us who don’t know what a stern or an aft are, its ass. The nose of the ship, responsible for separating the waves before it, is also called a bow, and is marked for passengers as the FWD , or forward. The part of the contemporary sailing vessel where the malls are clustered is called the midship. I trust that you have enjoyed this nautical lesson.

I ascend via elevator to my suite on Deck 11. This is where I encounter my first terrible surprise. My suite windows and balcony do not face the ocean. Instead, they look out onto another shopping mall. This mall is the one that’s called Central Park, perhaps in homage to the Olmsted-designed bit of greenery in the middle of my hometown. Although on land I would be delighted to own a suite with Central Park views, here I am deeply depressed. To sail on a ship and not wake up to a vast blue carpet of ocean? Unthinkable.

Allow me a brief preamble here. The story you are reading was commissioned at a moment when most staterooms on the Icon were sold out. In fact, so enthralled by the prospect of this voyage were hard-core mariners that the ship’s entire inventory of guest rooms (the Icon can accommodate up to 7,600 passengers, but its inaugural journey was reduced to 5,000 or so for a less crowded experience) was almost immediately sold out. Hence, this publication was faced with the shocking prospect of paying nearly $19,000 to procure for this solitary passenger an entire suite—not including drinking expenses—all for the privilege of bringing you this article. But the suite in question doesn’t even have a view of the ocean! I sit down hard on my soft bed. Nineteen thousand dollars for this .

selfie photo of man with glasses, in background is swim-up bar with two women facing away

The viewless suite does have its pluses. In addition to all the Malin+Goetz products in my dual bathrooms, I am granted use of a dedicated Suite Deck lounge; access to Coastal Kitchen, a superior restaurant for Suites passengers; complimentary VOOM SM Surf & Stream (“the fastest Internet at Sea”) “for one device per person for the whole cruise duration”; a pair of bathrobes (one of which comes prestained with what looks like a large expectoration by the greenest lizard on Earth); and use of the Grove Suite Sun, an area on Decks 18 and 19 with food and deck chairs reserved exclusively for Suite passengers. I also get reserved seating for a performance of The Wizard of Oz , an ice-skating tribute to the periodic table, and similar provocations. The very color of my Suite Sky SeaPass Card, an oceanic blue as opposed to the cloying royal purple of the standard non-Suite passenger, will soon provoke envy and admiration. But as high as my status may be, there are those on board who have much higher status still, and I will soon learn to bow before them.

In preparation for sailing, I have “priced in,” as they say on Wall Street, the possibility that I may come from a somewhat different monde than many of the other cruisers. Without falling into stereotypes or preconceptions, I prepare myself for a friendly outspokenness on the part of my fellow seafarers that may not comply with modern DEI standards. I believe in meeting people halfway, and so the day before flying down to Miami, I visited what remains of Little Italy to purchase a popular T-shirt that reads DADDY’S LITTLE MEATBALL across the breast in the colors of the Italian flag. My wife recommended that I bring one of my many T-shirts featuring Snoopy and the Peanuts gang, as all Americans love the beagle and his friends. But I naively thought that my meatball T-shirt would be more suitable for conversation-starting. “Oh, and who is your ‘daddy’?” some might ask upon seeing it. “And how long have you been his ‘little meatball’?” And so on.

I put on my meatball T-shirt and head for one of the dining rooms to get a late lunch. In the elevator, I stick out my chest for all to read the funny legend upon it, but soon I realize that despite its burnished tricolor letters, no one takes note. More to the point, no one takes note of me. Despite my attempts at bridge building, the very sight of me (small, ethnic, without a cap bearing the name of a football team) elicits no reaction from other passengers. Most often, they will small-talk over me as if I don’t exist. This brings to mind the travails of David Foster Wallace , who felt so ostracized by his fellow passengers that he retreated to his cabin for much of his voyage. And Wallace was raised primarily in the Midwest and was a much larger, more American-looking meatball than I am. If he couldn’t talk to these people, how will I? What if I leave this ship without making any friends at all, despite my T-shirt? I am a social creature, and the prospect of seven days alone and apart is saddening. Wallace’s stateroom, at least, had a view of the ocean, a kind of cheap eternity.

Worse awaits me in the dining room. This is a large, multichandeliered room where I attended my safety training (I was shown how to put on a flotation vest; it is a very simple procedure). But the maître d’ politely refuses me entry in an English that seems to verge on another language. “I’m sorry, this is only for pendejos ,” he seems to be saying. I push back politely and he repeats himself. Pendejos ? Piranhas? There’s some kind of P-word to which I am not attuned. Meanwhile elderly passengers stream right past, powered by their limbs, walkers, and electric wheelchairs. “It is only pendejo dining today, sir.” “But I have a suite!” I say, already starting to catch on to the ship’s class system. He examines my card again. “But you are not a pendejo ,” he confirms. I am wearing a DADDY’S LITTLE MEATBALL T-shirt, I want to say to him. I am the essence of pendejo .

Eventually, I give up and head to the plebeian buffet on Deck 15, which has an aquatic-styled name I have now forgotten. Before gaining entry to this endless cornucopia of reheated food, one passes a washing station of many sinks and soap dispensers, and perhaps the most intriguing character on the entire ship. He is Mr. Washy Washy—or, according to his name tag, Nielbert of the Philippines—and he is dressed as a taco (on other occasions, I’ll see him dressed as a burger). Mr. Washy Washy performs an eponymous song in spirited, indeed flamboyant English: “Washy, washy, wash your hands, WASHY WASHY!” The dangers of norovirus and COVID on a cruise ship this size (a giant fellow ship was stricken with the former right after my voyage) makes Mr. Washy Washy an essential member of the crew. The problem lies with the food at the end of Washy’s rainbow. The buffet is groaning with what sounds like sophisticated dishes—marinated octopus, boiled egg with anchovy, chorizo, lobster claws—but every animal tastes tragically the same, as if there was only one creature available at the market, a “cruisipus” bred specifically for Royal Caribbean dining. The “vegetables” are no better. I pick up a tomato slice and look right through it. It tastes like cellophane. I sit alone, apart from the couples and parents with gaggles of children, as “We Are Family” echoes across the buffet space.

I may have failed to mention that all this time, the Icon of the Seas has not left port. As the fiery mango of the subtropical setting sun makes Miami’s condo skyline even more apocalyptic, the ship shoves off beneath a perfunctory display of fireworks. After the sun sets, in the far, dark distance, another circus-lit cruise ship ruptures the waves before us. We glance at it with pity, because it is by definition a smaller ship than our own. I am on Deck 15, outside the buffet and overlooking a bunch of pools (the Icon has seven of them), drinking a frilly drink that I got from one of the bars (the Icon has 15 of them), still too shy to speak to anyone, despite Sister Sledge’s assertion that all on the ship are somehow related.

Kim Brooks: On failing the family vacation

The ship’s passage away from Ron DeSantis’s Florida provides no frisson, no sense of developing “sea legs,” as the ship is too large to register the presence of waves unless a mighty wind adds significant chop. It is time for me to register the presence of the 5,000 passengers around me, even if they refuse to register mine. My fellow travelers have prepared for this trip with personally decorated T-shirts celebrating the importance of this voyage. The simplest ones say ICON INAUGURAL ’24 on the back and the family name on the front. Others attest to an over-the-top love of cruise ships: WARNING! MAY START TALKING ABOUT CRUISING . Still others are artisanally designed and celebrate lifetimes spent married while cruising (on ships, of course). A couple possibly in their 90s are wearing shirts whose backs feature a drawing of a cruise liner, two flamingos with ostensibly male and female characteristics, and the legend “ HUSBAND AND WIFE Cruising Partners FOR LIFE WE MAY NOT HAVE IT All Together BUT TOGETHER WE HAVE IT ALL .” (The words not in all caps have been written in cursive.) A real journalist or a more intrepid conversationalist would have gone up to the couple and asked them to explain the longevity of their marriage vis-à-vis their love of cruising. But instead I head to my mall suite, take off my meatball T-shirt, and allow the first tears of the cruise to roll down my cheeks slowly enough that I briefly fall asleep amid the moisture and salt.

photo of elaborate twisting multicolored waterslides with long stairwell to platform

I WAKE UP with a hangover. Oh God. Right. I cannot believe all of that happened last night. A name floats into my cobwebbed, nauseated brain: “Ayn Rand.” Jesus Christ.

I breakfast alone at the Coastal Kitchen. The coffee tastes fine and the eggs came out of a bird. The ship rolls slightly this morning; I can feel it in my thighs and my schlong, the parts of me that are most receptive to danger.

I had a dangerous conversation last night. After the sun set and we were at least 50 miles from shore (most modern cruise ships sail at about 23 miles an hour), I lay in bed softly hiccupping, my arms stretched out exactly like Jesus on the cross, the sound of the distant waves missing from my mall-facing suite, replaced by the hum of air-conditioning and children shouting in Spanish through the vents of my two bathrooms. I decided this passivity was unacceptable. As an immigrant, I feel duty-bound to complete the tasks I am paid for, which means reaching out and trying to understand my fellow cruisers. So I put on a normal James Perse T-shirt and headed for one of the bars on the Royal Promenade—the Schooner Bar, it was called, if memory serves correctly.

I sat at the bar for a martini and two Negronis. An old man with thick, hairy forearms drank next to me, very silent and Hemingwaylike, while a dreadlocked piano player tinkled out a series of excellent Elton John covers. To my right, a young white couple—he in floral shorts, she in a light, summery miniskirt with a fearsome diamond ring, neither of them in football regalia—chatted with an elderly couple. Do it , I commanded myself. Open your mouth. Speak! Speak without being spoken to. Initiate. A sentence fragment caught my ear from the young woman, “Cherry Hill.” This is a suburb of Philadelphia in New Jersey, and I had once been there for a reading at a synagogue. “Excuse me,” I said gently to her. “Did you just mention Cherry Hill? It’s a lovely place.”

As it turned out, the couple now lived in Fort Lauderdale (the number of Floridians on the cruise surprised me, given that Southern Florida is itself a kind of cruise ship, albeit one slowly sinking), but soon they were talking with me exclusively—the man potbellied, with a chin like a hard-boiled egg; the woman as svelte as if she were one of the many Ukrainian members of the crew—the elderly couple next to them forgotten. This felt as groundbreaking as the first time I dared to address an American in his native tongue, as a child on a bus in Queens (“On my foot you are standing, Mister”).

“I don’t want to talk politics,” the man said. “But they’re going to eighty-six Biden and put Michelle in.”

I considered the contradictions of his opening conversational gambit, but decided to play along. “People like Michelle,” I said, testing the waters. The husband sneered, but the wife charitably put forward that the former first lady was “more personable” than Joe Biden. “They’re gonna eighty-six Biden,” the husband repeated. “He can’t put a sentence together.”

After I mentioned that I was a writer—though I presented myself as a writer of teleplays instead of novels and articles such as this one—the husband told me his favorite writer was Ayn Rand. “Ayn Rand, she came here with nothing,” the husband said. “I work with a lot of Cubans, so …” I wondered if I should mention what I usually do to ingratiate myself with Republicans or libertarians: the fact that my finances improved after pass-through corporations were taxed differently under Donald Trump. Instead, I ordered another drink and the couple did the same, and I told him that Rand and I were born in the same city, St. Petersburg/Leningrad, and that my family also came here with nothing. Now the bonding and drinking began in earnest, and several more rounds appeared. Until it all fell apart.

Read: Gary Shteyngart on watching Russian television for five days straight

My new friend, whom I will refer to as Ayn, called out to a buddy of his across the bar, and suddenly a young couple, both covered in tattoos, appeared next to us. “He fucking punked me,” Ayn’s frat-boy-like friend called out as he put his arm around Ayn, while his sizable partner sizzled up to Mrs. Rand. Both of them had a look I have never seen on land—their eyes projecting absence and enmity in equal measure. In the ’90s, I drank with Russian soldiers fresh from Chechnya and wandered the streets of wartime Zagreb, but I have never seen such undisguised hostility toward both me and perhaps the universe at large. I was briefly introduced to this psychopathic pair, but neither of them wanted to have anything to do with me, and the tattooed woman would not even reveal her Christian name to me (she pretended to have the same first name as Mrs. Rand). To impress his tattooed friends, Ayn made fun of the fact that as a television writer, I’d worked on the series Succession (which, it would turn out, practically nobody on the ship had watched), instead of the far more palatable, in his eyes, zombie drama of last year. And then my new friends drifted away from me into an angry private conversation—“He punked me!”—as I ordered another drink for myself, scared of the dead-eyed arrivals whose gaze never registered in the dim wattage of the Schooner Bar, whose terrifying voices and hollow laughs grated like unoiled gears against the crooning of “Goodbye Yellow Brick Road.”

But today is a new day for me and my hangover. After breakfast, I explore the ship’s so-called neighborhoods . There’s the AquaDome, where one can find a food hall and an acrobatic sound-and-light aquatic show. Central Park has a premium steak house, a sushi joint, and a used Rolex that can be bought for $8,000 on land here proudly offered at $17,000. There’s the aforementioned Royal Promenade, where I had drunk with the Rands, and where a pair of dueling pianos duel well into the night. There’s Surfside, a kids’ neighborhood full of sugary garbage, which looks out onto the frothy trail that the behemoth leaves behind itself. Thrill Island refers to the collection of tubes that clutter the ass of the ship and offer passengers six waterslides and a surfing simulation. There’s the Hideaway, an adult zone that plays music from a vomit-slathered, Brit-filled Alicante nightclub circa 1996 and proves a big favorite with groups of young Latin American customers. And, most hurtfully, there’s the Suite Neighborhood.

2 photos: a ship's foamy white wake stretches to the horizon; a man at reailing with water and two large ships docked behind

I say hurtfully because as a Suite passenger I should be here, though my particular suite is far from the others. Whereas I am stuck amid the riffraff of Deck 11, this section is on the highborn Decks 16 and 17, and in passing, I peek into the spacious, tall-ceilinged staterooms from the hallway, dazzled by the glint of the waves and sun. For $75,000, one multifloor suite even comes with its own slide between floors, so that a family may enjoy this particular terror in private. There is a quiet splendor to the Suite Neighborhood. I see fewer stickers and signs and drawings than in my own neighborhood—for example, MIKE AND DIANA PROUDLY SERVED U.S. MARINE CORPS RETIRED . No one here needs to announce their branch of service or rank; they are simply Suites, and this is where they belong. Once again, despite my hard work and perseverance, I have been disallowed from the true American elite. Once again, I am “Not our class, dear.” I am reminded of watching The Love Boat on my grandmother’s Zenith, which either was given to her or we found in the trash (I get our many malfunctioning Zeniths confused) and whose tube got so hot, I would put little chunks of government cheese on a thin tissue atop it to give our welfare treat a pleasant, Reagan-era gooeyness. I could not understand English well enough then to catch the nuances of that seafaring program, but I knew that there were differences in the status of the passengers, and that sometimes those differences made them sad. Still, this ship, this plenty—every few steps, there are complimentary nachos or milkshakes or gyros on offer—was the fatty fuel of my childhood dreams. If only I had remained a child.

I walk around the outdoor decks looking for company. There is a middle-aged African American couple who always seem to be asleep in each other’s arms, probably exhausted from the late capitalism they regularly encounter on land. There is far more diversity on this ship than I expected. Many couples are a testament to Loving v. Virginia , and there is a large group of folks whose T-shirts read MELANIN AT SEA / IT’S THE MELANIN FOR ME . I smile when I see them, but then some young kids from the group makes Mr. Washy Washy do a cruel, caricatured “Burger Dance” (today he is in his burger getup), and I think, Well, so much for intersectionality .

At the infinity pool on Deck 17, I spot some elderly women who could be ethnic and from my part of the world, and so I jump in. I am proved correct! Many of them seem to be originally from Queens (“Corona was still great when it was all Italian”), though they are now spread across the tristate area. We bond over the way “Ron-kon-koma” sounds when announced in Penn Station.

“Everyone is here for a different reason,” one of them tells me. She and her ex-husband last sailed together four years ago to prove to themselves that their marriage was truly over. Her 15-year-old son lost his virginity to “an Irish young lady” while their ship was moored in Ravenna, Italy. The gaggle of old-timers competes to tell me their favorite cruising stories and tips. “A guy proposed in Central Park a couple of years ago”—many Royal Caribbean ships apparently have this ridiculous communal area—“and she ran away screaming!” “If you’re diamond-class, you get four drinks for free.” “A different kind of passenger sails out of Bayonne.” (This, perhaps, is racially coded.) “Sometimes, if you tip the bartender $5, your next drink will be free.”

“Everyone’s here for a different reason,” the woman whose marriage ended on a cruise tells me again. “Some people are here for bad reasons—the drinkers and the gamblers. Some people are here for medical reasons.” I have seen more than a few oxygen tanks and at least one woman clearly undergoing very serious chemo. Some T-shirts celebrate good news about a cancer diagnosis. This might be someone’s last cruise or week on Earth. For these women, who have spent months, if not years, at sea, cruising is a ritual as well as a life cycle: first love, last love, marriage, divorce, death.

Read: The last place on Earth any tourist should go

I have talked with these women for so long, tonight I promise myself that after a sad solitary dinner I will not try to seek out company at the bars in the mall or the adult-themed Hideaway. I have enough material to fulfill my duties to this publication. As I approach my orphaned suite, I run into the aggro young people who stole Mr. and Mrs. Rand away from me the night before. The tattooed apparitions pass me without a glance. She is singing something violent about “Stuttering Stanley” (a character in a popular horror movie, as I discover with my complimentary VOOM SM Surf & Stream Internet at Sea) and he’s loudly shouting about “all the money I’ve lost,” presumably at the casino in the bowels of the ship.

So these bent psychos out of a Cormac McCarthy novel are angrily inhabiting my deck. As I mewl myself to sleep, I envision a limited series for HBO or some other streamer, a kind of low-rent White Lotus , where several aggressive couples conspire to throw a shy intellectual interloper overboard. I type the scenario into my phone. As I fall asleep, I think of what the woman who recently divorced her husband and whose son became a man through the good offices of the Irish Republic told me while I was hoisting myself out of the infinity pool. “I’m here because I’m an explorer. I’m here because I’m trying something new.” What if I allowed myself to believe in her fantasy?

2 photos: 2 slices of pizza on plate; man in "Daddy's Little Meatball" shirt and shorts standing in outdoor dining area with ship's exhaust stacks in background

“YOU REALLY STARTED AT THE TOP,” they tell me. I’m at the Coastal Kitchen for my eggs and corned-beef hash, and the maître d’ has slotted me in between two couples. Fueled by coffee or perhaps intrigued by my relative youth, they strike up a conversation with me. As always, people are shocked that this is my first cruise. They contrast the Icon favorably with all the preceding liners in the Royal Caribbean fleet, usually commenting on the efficiency of the elevators that hurl us from deck to deck (as in many large corporate buildings, the elevators ask you to choose a floor and then direct you to one of many lifts). The couple to my right, from Palo Alto—he refers to his “porn mustache” and calls his wife “my cougar” because she is two years older—tell me they are “Pandemic Pinnacles.”

This is the day that my eyes will be opened. Pinnacles , it is explained to me over translucent cantaloupe, have sailed with Royal Caribbean for 700 ungodly nights. Pandemic Pinnacles took advantage of the two-for-one accrual rate of Pinnacle points during the pandemic, when sailing on a cruise ship was even more ill-advised, to catapult themselves into Pinnacle status.

Because of the importance of the inaugural voyage of the world’s largest cruise liner, more than 200 Pinnacles are on this ship, a startling number, it seems. Mrs. Palo Alto takes out a golden badge that I have seen affixed over many a breast, which reads CROWN AND ANCHOR SOCIETY along with her name. This is the coveted badge of the Pinnacle. “You should hear all the whining in Guest Services,” her husband tells me. Apparently, the Pinnacles who are not also Suites like us are all trying to use their status to get into Coastal Kitchen, our elite restaurant. Even a Pinnacle needs to be a Suite to access this level of corned-beef hash.

“We’re just baby Pinnacles,” Mrs. Palo Alto tells me, describing a kind of internal class struggle among the Pinnacle elite for ever higher status.

And now I understand what the maître d’ was saying to me on the first day of my cruise. He wasn’t saying “ pendejo .” He was saying “Pinnacle.” The dining room was for Pinnacles only, all those older people rolling in like the tide on their motorized scooters.

And now I understand something else: This whole thing is a cult. And like most cults, it can’t help but mirror the endless American fight for status. Like Keith Raniere’s NXIVM, where different-colored sashes were given out to connote rank among Raniere’s branded acolytes, this is an endless competition among Pinnacles, Suites, Diamond-Plusers, and facing-the-mall, no-balcony purple SeaPass Card peasants, not to mention the many distinctions within each category. The more you cruise, the higher your status. No wonder a section of the Royal Promenade is devoted to getting passengers to book their next cruise during the one they should be enjoying now. No wonder desperate Royal Caribbean offers (“FINAL HOURS”) crowded my email account weeks before I set sail. No wonder the ship’s jewelry store, the Royal Bling, is selling a $100,000 golden chalice that will entitle its owner to drink free on Royal Caribbean cruises for life. (One passenger was already gaming out whether her 28-year-old son was young enough to “just about earn out” on the chalice or if that ship had sailed.) No wonder this ship was sold out months before departure , and we had to pay $19,000 for a horrid suite away from the Suite Neighborhood. No wonder the most mythical hero of Royal Caribbean lore is someone named Super Mario, who has cruised so often, he now has his own working desk on many ships. This whole experience is part cult, part nautical pyramid scheme.

From the June 2014 issue: Ship of wonks

“The toilets are amazing,” the Palo Altos are telling me. “One flush and you’re done.” “They don’t understand how energy-efficient these ships are,” the husband of the other couple is telling me. “They got the LNG”—liquefied natural gas, which is supposed to make the Icon a boon to the environment (a concept widely disputed and sometimes ridiculed by environmentalists).

But I’m thinking along a different line of attack as I spear my last pallid slice of melon. For my streaming limited series, a Pinnacle would have to get killed by either an outright peasant or a Suite without an ocean view. I tell my breakfast companions my idea.

“Oh, for sure a Pinnacle would have to be killed,” Mr. Palo Alto, the Pandemic Pinnacle, says, touching his porn mustache thoughtfully as his wife nods.

“THAT’S RIGHT, IT’S your time, buddy!” Hubert, my fun-loving Panamanian cabin attendant, shouts as I step out of my suite in a robe. “Take it easy, buddy!”

I have come up with a new dressing strategy. Instead of trying to impress with my choice of T-shirts, I have decided to start wearing a robe, as one does at a resort property on land, with a proper spa and hammam. The response among my fellow cruisers has been ecstatic. “Look at you in the robe!” Mr. Rand cries out as we pass each other by the Thrill Island aqua park. “You’re living the cruise life! You know, you really drank me under the table that night.” I laugh as we part ways, but my soul cries out, Please spend more time with me, Mr. and Mrs. Rand; I so need the company .

In my white robe, I am a stately presence, a refugee from a better limited series, a one-man crossover episode. (Only Suites are granted these robes to begin with.) Today, I will try many of the activities these ships have on offer to provide their clientele with a sense of never-ceasing motion. Because I am already at Thrill Island, I decide to climb the staircase to what looks like a mast on an old-fashioned ship (terrified, because I am afraid of heights) to try a ride called “Storm Chasers,” which is part of the “Category 6” water park, named in honor of one of the storms that may someday do away with the Port of Miami entirely. Storm Chasers consists of falling from the “mast” down a long, twisting neon tube filled with water, like being the camera inside your own colonoscopy, as you hold on to the handles of a mat, hoping not to die. The tube then flops you down headfirst into a trough of water, a Royal Caribbean baptism. It both knocks my breath out and makes me sad.

In keeping with the aquatic theme, I attend a show at the AquaDome. To the sound of “Live and Let Die,” a man in a harness gyrates to and fro in the sultry air. I saw something very similar in the back rooms of the famed Berghain club in early-aughts Berlin. Soon another harnessed man is gyrating next to the first. Ja , I think to myself, I know how this ends. Now will come the fisting , natürlich . But the show soon devolves into the usual Marvel-film-grade nonsense, with too much light and sound signifying nichts . If any fisting is happening, it is probably in the Suite Neighborhood, inside a cabin marked with an upside-down pineapple, which I understand means a couple are ready to swing, and I will see none of it.

I go to the ice show, which is a kind of homage—if that’s possible—to the periodic table, done with the style and pomp and masterful precision that would please the likes of Kim Jong Un, if only he could afford Royal Caribbean talent. At one point, the dancers skate to the theme song of Succession . “See that!” I want to say to my fellow Suites—at “cultural” events, we have a special section reserved for us away from the commoners—“ Succession ! It’s even better than the zombie show! Open your minds!”

Finally, I visit a comedy revue in an enormous and too brightly lit version of an “intimate,” per Royal Caribbean literature, “Manhattan comedy club.” Many of the jokes are about the cruising life. “I’ve lived on ships for 20 years,” one of the middle-aged comedians says. “I can only see so many Filipino homosexuals dressed as a taco.” He pauses while the audience laughs. “I am so fired tonight,” he says. He segues into a Trump impression and then Biden falling asleep at the microphone, which gets the most laughs. “Anyone here from Fort Leonard Wood?” another comedian asks. Half the crowd seems to cheer. As I fall asleep that night, I realize another connection I have failed to make, and one that may explain some of the diversity on this vessel—many of its passengers have served in the military.

As a coddled passenger with a suite, I feel like I am starting to understand what it means to have a rank and be constantly reminded of it. There are many espresso makers , I think as I look across the expanse of my officer-grade quarters before closing my eyes, but this one is mine .

photo of sheltered sandy beach with palms, umbrellas, and chairs with two large docked cruise ships in background

A shocking sight greets me beyond the pools of Deck 17 as I saunter over to the Coastal Kitchen for my morning intake of slightly sour Americanos. A tiny city beneath a series of perfectly pressed green mountains. Land! We have docked for a brief respite in Basseterre, the capital of St. Kitts and Nevis. I wolf down my egg scramble to be one of the first passengers off the ship. Once past the gangway, I barely refrain from kissing the ground. I rush into the sights and sounds of this scruffy island city, sampling incredible conch curry and buckets of non-Starbucks coffee. How wonderful it is to be where God intended humans to be: on land. After all, I am neither a fish nor a mall rat. This is my natural environment. Basseterre may not be Havana, but there are signs of human ingenuity and desire everywhere you look. The Black Table Grill Has been Relocated to Soho Village, Market Street, Directly Behind of, Gary’s Fruits and Flower Shop. Signed. THE PORK MAN reads a sign stuck to a wall. Now, that is how you write a sign. A real sign, not the come-ons for overpriced Rolexes that blink across the screens of the Royal Promenade.

“Hey, tie your shoestring!” a pair of laughing ladies shout to me across the street.

“Thank you!” I shout back. Shoestring! “Thank you very much.”

A man in Independence Square Park comes by and asks if I want to play with his monkey. I haven’t heard that pickup line since the Penn Station of the 1980s. But then he pulls a real monkey out of a bag. The monkey is wearing a diaper and looks insane. Wonderful , I think, just wonderful! There is so much life here. I email my editor asking if I can remain on St. Kitts and allow the Icon to sail off into the horizon without me. I have even priced a flight home at less than $300, and I have enough material from the first four days on the cruise to write the entire story. “It would be funny …” my editor replies. “Now get on the boat.”

As I slink back to the ship after my brief jailbreak, the locals stand under umbrellas to gaze at and photograph the boat that towers over their small capital city. The limousines of the prime minister and his lackeys are parked beside the gangway. St. Kitts, I’ve been told, is one of the few islands that would allow a ship of this size to dock.

“We hear about all the waterslides,” a sweet young server in one of the cafés told me. “We wish we could go on the ship, but we have to work.”

“I want to stay on your island,” I replied. “I love it here.”

But she didn’t understand how I could possibly mean that.

“WASHY, WASHY, so you don’t get stinky, stinky!” kids are singing outside the AquaDome, while their adult minders look on in disapproval, perhaps worried that Mr. Washy Washy is grooming them into a life of gayness. I heard a southern couple skip the buffet entirely out of fear of Mr. Washy Washy.

Meanwhile, I have found a new watering hole for myself, the Swim & Tonic, the biggest swim-up bar on any cruise ship in the world. Drinking next to full-size, nearly naked Americans takes away one’s own self-consciousness. The men have curvaceous mom bodies. The women are equally un-shy about their sprawling physiques.

Today I’ve befriended a bald man with many children who tells me that all of the little trinkets that Royal Caribbean has left us in our staterooms and suites are worth a fortune on eBay. “Eighty dollars for the water bottle, 60 for the lanyard,” the man says. “This is a cult.”

“Tell me about it,” I say. There is, however, a clientele for whom this cruise makes perfect sense. For a large middle-class family (he works in “supply chains”), seven days in a lower-tier cabin—which starts at $1,800 a person—allow the parents to drop off their children in Surfside, where I imagine many young Filipina crew members will take care of them, while the parents are free to get drunk at a swim-up bar and maybe even get intimate in their cabin. Cruise ships have become, for a certain kind of hardworking family, a form of subsidized child care.

There is another man I would like to befriend at the Swim & Tonic, a tall, bald fellow who is perpetually inebriated and who wears a necklace studded with little rubber duckies in sunglasses, which, I am told, is a sort of secret handshake for cruise aficionados. Tomorrow, I will spend more time with him, but first the ship docks at St. Thomas, in the U.S. Virgin Islands. Charlotte Amalie, the capital, is more charming in name than in presence, but I still all but jump off the ship to score a juicy oxtail and plantains at the well-known Petite Pump Room, overlooking the harbor. From one of the highest points in the small city, the Icon of the Seas appears bigger than the surrounding hills.

I usually tan very evenly, but something about the discombobulation of life at sea makes me forget the regular application of sunscreen. As I walk down the streets of Charlotte Amalie in my fluorescent Icon of the Seas cap, an old Rastafarian stares me down. “Redneck,” he hisses.

“No,” I want to tell him, as I bring a hand up to my red neck, “that’s not who I am at all. On my island, Mannahatta, as Whitman would have it, I am an interesting person living within an engaging artistic milieu. I do not wish to use the Caribbean as a dumping ground for the cruise-ship industry. I love the work of Derek Walcott. You don’t understand. I am not a redneck. And if I am, they did this to me.” They meaning Royal Caribbean? Its passengers? The Rands?

“They did this to me!”

Back on the Icon, some older matrons are muttering about a run-in with passengers from the Celebrity cruise ship docked next to us, the Celebrity Apex. Although Celebrity Cruises is also owned by Royal Caribbean, I am made to understand that there is a deep fratricidal beef between passengers of the two lines. “We met a woman from the Apex,” one matron says, “and she says it was a small ship and there was nothing to do. Her face was as tight as a 19-year-old’s, she had so much surgery.” With those words, and beneath a cloudy sky, humidity shrouding our weathered faces and red necks, we set sail once again, hopefully in the direction of home.

photo from inside of spacious geodesic-style glass dome facing ocean, with stairwells and seating areas

THERE ARE BARELY 48 HOURS LEFT to the cruise, and the Icon of the Seas’ passengers are salty. They know how to work the elevators. They know the Washy Washy song by heart. They understand that the chicken gyro at “Feta Mediterranean,” in the AquaDome Market, is the least problematic form of chicken on the ship.

The passengers have shed their INAUGURAL CRUISE T-shirts and are now starting to evince political opinions. There are caps pledging to make America great again and T-shirts that celebrate words sometimes attributed to Patrick Henry: “The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people; it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government.” With their preponderance of FAMILY FLAG FAITH FRIENDS FIREARMS T-shirts, the tables by the crepe station sometimes resemble the Capitol Rotunda on January 6. The Real Anthony Fauci , by Robert F. Kennedy Jr., appears to be a popular form of literature, especially among young men with very complicated versions of the American flag on their T-shirts. Other opinions blend the personal and the political. “Someone needs to kill Washy guy, right?” a well-dressed man in the elevator tells me, his gray eyes radiating nothing. “Just beat him to death. Am I right?” I overhear the male member of a young couple whisper, “There goes that freak” as I saunter by in my white spa robe, and I decide to retire it for the rest of the cruise.

I visit the Royal Bling to see up close the $100,000 golden chalice that entitles you to free drinks on Royal Caribbean forever. The pleasant Serbian saleslady explains that the chalice is actually gold-plated and covered in white zirconia instead of diamonds, as it would otherwise cost $1 million. “If you already have everything,” she explains, “this is one more thing you can get.”

I believe that anyone who works for Royal Caribbean should be entitled to immediate American citizenship. They already speak English better than most of the passengers and, per the Serbian lady’s sales pitch above, better understand what America is as well. Crew members like my Panamanian cabin attendant seem to work 24 hours a day. A waiter from New Delhi tells me that his contract is six months and three weeks long. After a cruise ends, he says, “in a few hours, we start again for the next cruise.” At the end of the half a year at sea, he is allowed a two-to-three-month stay at home with his family. As of 2019, the median income for crew members was somewhere in the vicinity of $20,000, according to a major business publication. Royal Caribbean would not share the current median salary for its crew members, but I am certain that it amounts to a fraction of the cost of a Royal Bling gold-plated, zirconia-studded chalice.

And because most of the Icon’s hyper-sanitized spaces are just a frittata away from being a Delta lounge, one forgets that there are actual sailors on this ship, charged with the herculean task of docking it in port. “Having driven 100,000-ton aircraft carriers throughout my career,” retired Admiral James G. Stavridis, the former NATO Supreme Allied Commander Europe, writes to me, “I’m not sure I would even know where to begin with trying to control a sea monster like this one nearly three times the size.” (I first met Stavridis while touring Army bases in Germany more than a decade ago.)

Today, I decide to head to the hot tub near Swim & Tonic, where some of the ship’s drunkest reprobates seem to gather (the other tubs are filled with families and couples). The talk here, like everywhere else on the ship, concerns football, a sport about which I know nothing. It is apparent that four teams have recently competed in some kind of finals for the year, and that two of them will now face off in the championship. Often when people on the Icon speak, I will try to repeat the last thing they said with a laugh or a nod of disbelief. “Yes, 20-yard line! Ha!” “Oh my God, of course, scrimmage.”

Soon we are joined in the hot tub by the late-middle-age drunk guy with the duck necklace. He is wearing a bucket hat with the legend HAWKEYES , which, I soon gather, is yet another football team. “All right, who turned me in?” Duck Necklace says as he plops into the tub beside us. “I get a call in the morning,” he says. “It’s security. Can you come down to the dining room by 10 a.m.? You need to stay away from the members of this religious family.” Apparently, the gregarious Duck Necklace had photobombed the wrong people. There are several families who present as evangelical Christians or practicing Muslims on the ship. One man, evidently, was not happy that Duck Necklace had made contact with his relatives. “It’s because of religious stuff; he was offended. I put my arm around 20 people a day.”

Everyone laughs. “They asked me three times if I needed medication,” he says of the security people who apparently interrogated him in full view of others having breakfast.

Another hot-tub denizen suggests that he should have asked for fentanyl. After a few more drinks, Duck Necklace begins to muse about what it would be like to fall off the ship. “I’m 62 and I’m ready to go,” he says. “I just don’t want a shark to eat me. I’m a huge God guy. I’m a Bible guy. There’s some Mayan theory squaring science stuff with religion. There is so much more to life on Earth.” We all nod into our Red Stripes.

“I never get off the ship when we dock,” he says. He tells us he lost $6,000 in the casino the other day. Later, I look him up, and it appears that on land, he’s a financial adviser in a crisp gray suit, probably a pillar of his North Chicago community.

photo of author smiling and holding soft-serve ice-cream cone with outdoor seating area in background

THE OCEAN IS TEEMING with fascinating life, but on the surface it has little to teach us. The waves come and go. The horizon remains ever far away.

I am constantly told by my fellow passengers that “everybody here has a story.” Yes, I want to reply, but everybody everywhere has a story. You, the reader of this essay, have a story, and yet you’re not inclined to jump on a cruise ship and, like Duck Necklace, tell your story to others at great pitch and volume. Maybe what they’re saying is that everybody on this ship wants to have a bigger, more coherent, more interesting story than the one they’ve been given. Maybe that’s why there’s so much signage on the doors around me attesting to marriages spent on the sea. Maybe that’s why the Royal Caribbean newsletter slipped under my door tells me that “this isn’t a vacation day spent—it’s bragging rights earned.” Maybe that’s why I’m so lonely.

Today is a big day for Icon passengers. Today the ship docks at Royal Caribbean’s own Bahamian island, the Perfect Day at CocoCay. (This appears to be the actual name of the island.) A comedian at the nightclub opined on what his perfect day at CocoCay would look like—receiving oral sex while learning that his ex-wife had been killed in a car crash (big laughter). But the reality of the island is far less humorous than that.

One of the ethnic tristate ladies in the infinity pool told me that she loved CocoCay because it had exactly the same things that could be found on the ship itself. This proves to be correct. It is like the Icon, but with sand. The same tired burgers, the same colorful tubes conveying children and water from Point A to B. The same swim-up bar at its Hideaway ($140 for admittance, no children allowed; Royal Caribbean must be printing money off its clientele). “There was almost a fight at The Wizard of Oz ,” I overhear an elderly woman tell her companion on a chaise lounge. Apparently one of the passengers began recording Royal Caribbean’s intellectual property and “three guys came after him.”

I walk down a pathway to the center of the island, where a sign reads DO NOT ENTER: YOU HAVE REACHED THE BOUNDARY OF ADVENTURE . I hear an animal scampering in the bushes. A Royal Caribbean worker in an enormous golf cart soon chases me down and takes me back to the Hideaway, where I run into Mrs. Rand in a bikini. She becomes livid telling me about an altercation she had the other day with a woman over a towel and a deck chair. We Suites have special towel privileges; we do not have to hand over our SeaPass Card to score a towel. But the Rands are not Suites. “People are so entitled here,” Mrs. Rand says. “It’s like the airport with all its classes.” “You see,” I want to say, “this is where your husband’s love of Ayn Rand runs into the cruelties and arbitrary indignities of unbridled capitalism.” Instead we make plans to meet for a final drink in the Schooner Bar tonight (the Rands will stand me up).

Back on the ship, I try to do laps, but the pool (the largest on any cruise ship, naturally) is fully trashed with the detritus of American life: candy wrappers, a slowly dissolving tortilla chip, napkins. I take an extra-long shower in my suite, then walk around the perimeter of the ship on a kind of exercise track, past all the alluring lifeboats in their yellow-and-white livery. Maybe there is a dystopian angle to the HBO series that I will surely end up pitching, one with shades of WALL-E or Snowpiercer . In a collapsed world, a Royal Caribbean–like cruise liner sails from port to port, collecting new shipmates and supplies in exchange for the precious energy it has on board. (The actual Icon features a new technology that converts passengers’ poop into enough energy to power the waterslides . In the series, this shitty technology would be greatly expanded.) A very young woman (18? 19?), smart and lonely, who has only known life on the ship, walks along the same track as I do now, contemplating jumping off into the surf left by its wake. I picture reusing Duck Necklace’s words in the opening shot of the pilot. The girl is walking around the track, her eyes on the horizon; maybe she’s highborn—a Suite—and we hear the voice-over: “I’m 19 and I’m ready to go. I just don’t want a shark to eat me.”

Before the cruise is finished, I talk to Mr. Washy Washy, or Nielbert of the Philippines. He is a sweet, gentle man, and I thank him for the earworm of a song he has given me and for keeping us safe from the dreaded norovirus. “This is very important to me, getting people to wash their hands,” he tells me in his burger getup. He has dreams, as an artist and a performer, but they are limited in scope. One day he wants to dress up as a piece of bacon for the morning shift.

THE MAIDEN VOYAGE OF THE TITANIC (the Icon of the Seas is five times as large as that doomed vessel) at least offered its passengers an exciting ending to their cruise, but when I wake up on the eighth day, all I see are the gray ghosts that populate Miami’s condo skyline. Throughout my voyage, my writer friends wrote in to commiserate with me. Sloane Crosley, who once covered a three-day spa mini-cruise for Vogue , tells me she felt “so very alone … I found it very untethering.” Gideon Lewis-Kraus writes in an Instagram comment: “When Gary is done I think it’s time this genre was taken out back and shot.” And he is right. To badly paraphrase Adorno: After this, no more cruise stories. It is unfair to put a thinking person on a cruise ship. Writers typically have difficult childhoods, and it is cruel to remind them of the inherent loneliness that drove them to writing in the first place. It is also unseemly to write about the kind of people who go on cruises. Our country does not provide the education and upbringing that allow its citizens an interior life. For the creative class to point fingers at the large, breasty gentlemen adrift in tortilla-chip-laden pools of water is to gather a sour harvest of low-hanging fruit.

A day or two before I got off the ship, I decided to make use of my balcony, which I had avoided because I thought the view would only depress me further. What I found shocked me. My suite did not look out on Central Park after all. This entire time, I had been living in the ship’s Disneyland, Surfside, the neighborhood full of screaming toddlers consuming milkshakes and candy. And as I leaned out over my balcony, I beheld a slight vista of the sea and surf that I thought I had been missing. It had been there all along. The sea was frothy and infinite and blue-green beneath the span of a seagull’s wing. And though it had been trod hard by the world’s largest cruise ship, it remained.

This article appears in the May 2024 print edition with the headline “A Meatball at Sea.” When you buy a book using a link on this page, we receive a commission. Thank you for supporting The Atlantic.

IMAGES

  1. Our Small Ship Cruise in Alaska's Inside Passage, September 2014

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  2. Inside Passage Sojourn

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  3. Cruising Alaska's Inside Passage

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  4. 7 Small Ship Cruises in Inside Passage, Alaska

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  5. Small ship cruises, Wildlife tour, Alaska cruise

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  6. Fjords of Alaska: Luxury Inside Passage cruise

    small ship cruise inside passage

VIDEO

  1. Destination Vancouver Island-Cruising the Inside Passage Pt 3

  2. Alaska Inside Passage Explorations: Part II

  3. Iceland Beyond Ordinary

  4. Variety Voyager presentation by Variety Cruises

  5. David B Cruises Zoom Info for the 2024 Season

  6. A mini cruise!

COMMENTS

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  27. Crying Myself to Sleep on the Biggest Cruise Ship Ever

    This is the biggest cruise ship ever built, and I have been tasked with witnessing its inaugural voyage. Explore the May 2024 Issue Check out more from this issue and find your next story to read.