cruise control symbol flashing

Why Is My Cruise Control Light Blinking?

By: Author Zach Reed

Seeing the light on your dashboard start to blink is always concerning, especially if you don’t know what it means.

If you see your cruise control light blinking on your dashboard, you’ll probably start to worry about what it means and what you’ll have to do to get it fixed.

Heck, what does it even mean when your cruise control light is on but not flashing? Does that just mean that the system is working properly, or does that mean it’s faulty?

If your cruise control light is blinking, this typically means that something is faulty within the system and could mean that the cruise control itself might need to be repaired.

More often than not, this is usually to do with the electronics, such as a speed sensor. If you have a faulty system, you should refrain from using cruise control until it’s fixed.

Today, we’re going to talk about what the cruise control light looks like on most cars, and what it means when it starts blinking.

We’ll also discuss what to do if the light is on but not blinking, and whether or not you can safely drive your car in that state.

Our main goal with this site is to provide you and the rest of our readers with exactly what they’re looking for.

This way, you don’t have to waste your time perusing the web, comparing sources to one another, and trying to figure out what’s right and what’s wrong.

We’ve done the legwork for you, so all you have to do is come here and you’re good to go!

What Does the Cruise Control Light Look Like?

Before we go through this entire article talking about the cruise control light in your car, let’s make sure you know what the cruise control light actually looks like.

After all, there are all sorts of lights on your dashboard, and seeing any one of them turn on unexpectedly can be a bit confusing. So knowing what certain ones look like will help you figure out what’s going on more quickly.

The cruise control light usually looks like a miniature speedometer with the analog indicator set in place, indicating that the speed of your car is set as well.

This light is usually found on the lower right side of your dashboard, near where the speedometer and odometer are. If you can’t find it there, it might be located on the steering column. 

It’s important to know where this light is so that if it does turn on while you’re driving, you’re not scrambling to figure out where it is and what it means.

Now that we know what the cruise control light looks like, let’s talk about what it means when it starts blinking.

What Does it Mean if Your Cruise Control Light is Blinking?

There are a few different things that could be going on if you see the cruise control light blinking while you’re driving. The first thing you should do is check to see if your cruise control is working at all.

A general rule of thumb about most lights on your dash is that if they’re flashing, it usually means that something is faulty with that particular system and it’s not working as it’s expected to .

To check to see if cruise control is working, you can simply try to engage it. If the light is blinking, that’s usually an indication that the system is turned on but not working properly.

This could be for a number of reasons, such as a problem with the speed sensor or cruise control servo. In most cases, you’ll need to take your car to a mechanic to get it checked out and repaired.

Why is My Cruise Control Light On But Not Blinking?

The vast majority of the time, if you see a light illuminated on your dashboard, it typically means that there’s an issue of some sort going on.

But cruise control is one of the few exceptions to this rule. When you see your cruise control light illuminated on your dash, that’s actually a good sign. It’s exactly what you want to see!

If the light is on but not blinking, that usually means that cruise control is engaged and working properly. This should be easy to verify since you’ll be able to feel the car maintaining its speed without you having to do anything.

The light being on is simply there to let you know that the system is engaged and working.

It’s important to note that even if the light is on and cruise control is working, you might still have some issues with the system.

For example, you might notice that your car is having trouble maintaining speed on hills or in stop-and-go traffic.

If this is happening, it’s usually an indication that your cruise control system needs to be adjusted. But as long as the light is on, you know that the system is engaged and working.

Can You Drive Your Car With a Faulty Cruise Control System?

If you’re driving and you see the cruise control light start blinking, the best thing to do is to disengage cruise control and drive without it until you can get your car into a mechanic.

In most cases, it’s not safe to continue driving using cruise control if you know that the system is having issues or that something is faulty within the sensors and electronics of the system.

The reason for this is that cruise control relies on sensors to help maintain speed.

If something is wrong with the sensor or the system itself, your car might not be able to properly gauge its speed.

This could lead to you unintentionally speeding or, even worse, not being able to slow down in time if someone cuts you off or if there’s an obstacle in the road.

It’s always better to be safe than sorry when it comes to your car. So if you see the cruise control light blinking, make sure to disengage the system and drive without it until you can get your car into a mechanic.

Summing Up Why Your Cruise Control Light is Blinking

If your cruise control light is not only on, but blinking, it usually indicates that there is something wrong with the device itself.

It’s important to stop using cruise control as soon as you see the light blinking and take it into a mechanic to get it fixed. Otherwise, it could lead to accidents if you’re not able to stop in time.

Blinking cruise control lights aren’t generally too much cause for concern, but be diligent about any light that starts blinking on your dashboard!

Hi, I'm the founder of VehicleAnswers.com! Having owned a wide variety of vehicles in my life, I was astounded at how hard it can be to find answers to common automotive questions. Rather than sit idly, I decided to create this website to help others!

Understanding the Cruise Control Symbol on Your Car Dashboard. Decoding Standard Symbols

As a driver, understanding the symbols on your car dashboard is essential for vehicle safety and functionality. The cruise control symbol is one such symbol that may be confusing or unfamiliar to some drivers. In this blog post, we will discuss what the cruise control symbol means and how to use it.

What is Cruise Control?

Cruise control is a feature in cars that allows you to maintain a constant speed without the need to continuously press on the accelerator pedal. By using cruise control, you can give your foot a break during long drives or on stretches of highway where you don’t need to vary your speed.

What Does the Cruise Control Symbol Look Like?

The cruise control symbol can vary depending on your car make and model, but it typically looks like a speedometer with an arrow or a car with a speedometer inside of it. Sometimes, the symbol may also have the word “Cruise” written below or beside it.

How to Use Cruise Control

To use cruise control, follow these steps:

• Accelerate to your desired speed.
• Locate the cruise control button on your steering wheel or dashboard. It’s usually labeled with the same symbol we discussed earlier.
• Press the cruise control button to turn it on. You should see the symbol light up on your dashboard.
• Once you’re traveling at your desired speed, press the “set” or “resume” button on your steering wheel or dashboard. This will activate the cruise control and maintain your current speed.
• To turn off cruise control, simply press the “off” button or tap the brake pedal.

Important Safety Considerations

While cruise control can be a helpful feature on long drives, it’s important to remain alert and aware of your surroundings while using it. Do not use cruise control in heavy traffic or on winding roads. Additionally, always wear your seatbelt and keep a safe following distance from the car in front of you.

In conclusion, understanding the cruise control symbol on your car dashboard is important for any driver who wants to take advantage of this helpful feature. By following the steps we outlined above, you should be able to use cruise control safely and effectively on your next long drive.

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What does the cruise control symbol on my car dashboard represent?

The cruise control symbol on your car dashboard represents the availability and status of the cruise control feature. It is typically depicted as a speedometer icon with an arrow or a vehicle icon with speed lines. The symbol is designed to indicate that the cruise control system is active and ready to be engaged.

How does the cruise control feature work?

The cruise control feature allows you to set a desired speed for your vehicle to maintain without continuously pressing the accelerator pedal. Once activated, you can increase or decrease the set speed using the controls provided. The system automatically adjusts the throttle to keep your vehicle at the set speed, providing convenience and reducing driver fatigue on long drives.

What are the common methods to activate the cruise control feature?

The specific method to activate the cruise control feature can vary depending on the vehicle make and model. However, it commonly involves locating the cruise control buttons on the steering wheel or the dashboard. Typical controls include an “On/Off” button, “Set” or “Resume” button to set the desired speed, and buttons to increase or decrease the set speed.

Can I use the cruise control feature in all driving conditions?

No, the cruise control feature should not be used in all driving conditions. It is recommended to use cruise control only in appropriate situations, such as on long, straight highways with little traffic. Avoid using it in heavy traffic, city driving, or in inclement weather conditions, as these scenarios may require frequent speed adjustments or immediate braking.

What should I do if the cruise control symbol starts flashing on my dashboard?

If the cruise control symbol on your dashboard starts flashing, it indicates a potential issue with the cruise control system. The exact meaning of the flashing symbol can vary between different car models. To determine the specific problem, consult your vehicle’s owner’s manual or seek assistance from a qualified mechanic who can diagnose and resolve the issue.

Is it safe to rely solely on the cruise control feature while driving?

No, it is not safe to rely solely on the cruise control feature while driving. Cruise control is meant to assist drivers in maintaining a constant speed, but it does not replace the need for attentive and responsible driving. It’s important to remain aware of the road conditions, traffic, and any unexpected situations that may require immediate control of the vehicle. Always be prepared to override or disengage the cruise control feature when necessary.

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Why is Subaru Cruise Control Light Flashing on My Car Dashboard?

Driving can be fun, but long-distance driving can be fatiguing as you keep pressing the gas pedal to keep the car going at your desired speed. Thankfully, cars now feature cruise control — a system that lets drivers set a desired speed and relaxes their feet when traveling a long journey.

You can activate the system by pressing the cruise control button and the vehicle will keep you at the current speed. So you don’t have to depress the gas pedal to keep the car running. Cars with advanced cruise control systems use sensors at the front bumper to detect vehicles ahead of them and keep the car at a distance to prevent collision.

Like other system components, the cruise control does have issues. And these issues are common with Subaru cars. Most Subaru owners complain of Subaru cruise control light flashing on the dashboard as they drive.

Why does my Subaru cruise control light keep flashing?

The most common reason why the cruise control light is flashing on your Subaru is due to an electrical or mechanical problem. Remember, when the light is flashing, the cruise control system is disabled, so don’t try to turn it on because it won’t work.

In some other cases, the cruise control light may be flashing due to a defective or loose gas cap, a blown fuse for the cruise control, a failing brake pedal switch, or a defective vehicle speed sensor. Let’s have an in-depth look to see how these issues could cause cruise control light flashing on Subaru Outback and other Subaru models.

Blown fuses

The cruise control system consists of several electrical systems protected by a fuse. The fuse can blow up if there’s an electrical power issue, preventing the key components from failing. If that happens, it will disable the cruise control system. In some cases, the car computer will start flashing the cruise control light on the dashboard to notify you that there’s an underlying issue that needs urgent attention.

If you suspect the fuse is blown, replace it and see if that fixes the cruise control system and clear the blinking light on the dashboard.  If that resolves the problem but the fuse blows in no time and the light starts blinking again, you have other electrical issues. Contact your mechanic for a thorough diagnosis.

Defective speed sensor

The vehicle speed sensor is one of the essential components of the cruise control system. When you activate the cruise control, the onboard computer collects information from the speed sensor to know when to increase and decrease the engine speed.

The vehicle speed sensor is mounted at the tail end of your transmission, and if it malfunctions, the cruise control light will start blinking on the dashboard. The speed sensor is needed to ensure that the speedometer and the odometer work correctly, and without it, the cruise control system will be affected.

If you notice the cruise control light flashing and check engine light is on, check the vehicle speed sensor. A bad speed sensor triggers the check engine light and disables the cruise control system. This sensor cannot be repaired. So, if it is the root cause, the only solution is to replace it with a new one.

Loose gas cap

Believe it or not, the gas cap plays a crucial role in your vehicle’s overall functionality. The gas cap can affect the performance of the cruise control system. For instance, in Subarus, a loose gas cap can cause the cruise control light to blink as you drive. It can also trigger the check engine light to pop on the dashboard. So, a loose gas cap can cause the Subaru Forester check engine light with flashing cruise control to pop on the dashboard.

Faulty mechanical component

If you own an older Subaru car, the cruise control light could be flashing due to a faulty mechanical component. In older models, the cruise control system has a cable, connecting the throttle to an air actuator, which regulates the cable to keep the vehicle at the set speed settings.

If any of the mechanical components go bad, it can disable the system and trigger the blinking light on the dashboard.

Malfunctioning brake pedal switch

Under perfect conditions, the brake lights shine as you depress the brake pedal. There’s a component attached to the brake pedal — the brake pedal switch, which tells the brake lights to light up as you depress the pedal.

If the switch goes bad, the brake lights won’t know when you step on the brake pedal. But aside from this, a bad brake pedal switch can also affect the cruise control system.

When you activate the cruise control system, the system will deactivate and switch to manual mode whenever you step on the brake pedal. If the switch malfunctions, it may send wrong signals to the cruise control system, telling it the brake pedal is always depressed, preventing the cruise control system from turning on.

System malfunction

If your Subaru check engine light is flashing along with the cruise control light and the brake pedal switch, fuses, and vehicle speed sensors are good, you have a problem somewhere in the cruise control system.

To determine the root cause of the malfunction, you need a mechanic to diagnose the vehicle. The mechanic will inspect all cruise control components and may plug in a scan tool to pull out all the error codes in the vehicle.

It’s okay for the cruise control light to be on when you activate it, but if the light comes on when you are not using the cruise control, or the light starts blinking when you activate it, there’s a problem that needs to be addressed. In most cases, a flashing cruise control light on Subaru is accompanied by the engine warning light.

What to do if your Subaru cruise control light flashing?

Whenever the Subrau cruise control light starts flashing on the dashboard, the cruise control has malfunctioned or disabled. Hence, do not turn on the cruise control system. If the light starts flashing after getting gas, locate a safe spot and pull over. Check the gas cap and re-tighten it. It could be you did not secure the gas cap properly.

If that do not solve the problem, drive straight to your mechanic and have them diagnose and fix the problem.

Does the cruise control stop working when check engine light is on?

If the onboard computer detects a problem with your transmission or the engine, it will display the check engine light and disable certain vehicle functions, like the cruise control system, to prevent further damage until you address the issue.

Let’s be clear here; this does not mean that the PCM must disable the cruise control whenever it detects an issue with the engine or transmission. It will only disable the system if the issue is causing unstable engine performance.

Subaru Outback check engine light flashing, cruise control, and traction control light blinking can all come up due to engine performance issues. Contact your mechanic to proffer solutions to the problem. 

Final Words

To be precise, the flashing Subaru cruise control light shows there is a mechanical or electrical problem in your car. The cruise control light should be green and steady when you turn on the system. But if the light is flashing, turn off the cruise control until you address the problem.

If you are a DIYer, you can fix the issue yourself. But if you are not, contact your mechanic or dealership. The solution can be easy, quick, and quite affordable.

Osuagwu Solomon

Osuagwu Solomon is a certified mechanic with over a decade of experience in the mechanic garage, and he has over five years of experience in the writing industry. He started writing automotive articles to share his garage experience with car enthusiasts and armature mechanics. If he is not in the garage fixing challenging mechanical problems, he is writing automotive repair guides, buyer’s guides, and car and tools comparisons.

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Cruise Control Symbol: All You Need to Know

Seeing a cruise control symbol on your car dashboard and wondering about its meaning.

In this article, I will explain all you need to know about the cruise control system, including the meaning of the cruise control symbol and how to use the system properly.

What Is Cruise Control?

Cruise control is an electronic system that enables you to maintain a constant speed without keeping your foot on the accelerator. 

Cruise control provides convenience and reduces driver fatigue during long trips. Additionally, by maintaining a consistent speed and eliminating unnecessary acceleration and deceleration, the system also helps improve fuel efficiency .

What Does the Cruise Control Symbol Mean?

The cruise control symbol indicates that the cruise control system is engaged and maintains the set speed . The symbol may also change color or blink to indicate different states or potential issues with the system.

Note that the symbol may vary between different car makes and models. Enter your brand in the search box for detailed information about your cruise control system.

How to Use the Cruise Control Effectively

You can activate the system by pressing the cruise control button on the steering wheel. Thus, set the desired speed (using controls on the steering wheel). The system will automatically monitor the speed and adjust the throttle to maintain that speed. Remember to remain attentive and be ready to take manual control even when using cruise control.

You can also deactivate the system by applying the brakes or pressing the cancel or off button on the steering wheel.

Cruise control is best utilized in specific driving conditions, such as on highways or flat roads with low traffic. However, it should not be used in the following situations:

• Heavy Traffic : In congested traffic conditions, you need full control of your vehicle, including speed adjustments and braking. Cruise control can impede your ability to react quickly to changing traffic conditions.
• Curvy or Hilly Roads : Cruise control may not be suitable for roads with sharp curves or significant changes in elevation. Manual control allows for better handling and adaptation to the terrain.
• Slippery or Icy Conditions : Avoid using cruise control on slippery surfaces or in inclement weather, as it may hinder your ability to make immediate adjustments to maintain traction or handle unpredictable road conditions.

What’s Next?

Cruise control is useful for maintaining a steady speed during long drives. By understanding the operation of the system and how to use it effectively, you can enhance your driving experience and safety. 

We’d love to hear about your experiences with cruise control. Leave a comment below and share your thoughts! 

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Subaru cruise control light is flashing. Possible causes

Have you ever noticed your Subaru’s cruise control light flashing? It can be quite disconcerting. Don’t worry, it’s probably nothing serious.

In this article, you’ll learn what could be causing the flashing light and how to fix it. We’ll also discuss some other issues related to cruise control, so you can be better prepared if something similar happens in the future.

Key Takeaways

• The flashing cruise control light in a Subaru could be caused by various issues such as a faulty brake switch, malfunctioning speed sensor, or blown fuse.
• Other potential causes include a failing brake pedal switch, traction control system issues, malfunctioning mechanical components, and failed control module, sensor, or switch issues.
• Throttle actuation problems and dirty or malfunctioning cameras (in the case of adaptive cruise control) can also lead to a flashing cruise control light.
• Before visiting a service center, there are a few solutions to try such as replacing the brake switch, replacing the gas cap, disconnecting the positive battery cable and stepping on the brake pedal, and using an OBDII reader for diagnostic information. However, if the issue persists, it is recommended to visit an authorized Subaru service center for professional diagnosis and repair.

A brief explanation of the issue

If you’re driving a Subaru with cruise control, you may have noticed that the light on the dashboard is flashing . The flashing cruise control light can be caused by a number of issues, including:

• A faulty brake switch
• An electrical fault in the vehicle
• A malfunctioning cruise control system
• A loose or faulty connection in the wiring harness.

Troubleshooting the issue requires an experienced mechanic to diagnose and repair.

Causes of Flashing Cruise Control Light

If your Subaru’s cruise control light is flashing, it may be due to a malfunctioning speed sensor. This sensor is responsible for detecting the speed of the vehicle and relaying that information to the cruise control system. If the sensor is not working properly, it can cause the cruise control light to flash.

Another potential cause of a flashing cruise control light is a blown fuse. The fuse that controls the cruise control system may have blown, preventing it from functioning properly. Checking and replacing the blown fuse can resolve this issue.

A failing brake pedal switch can also be a culprit behind a flashing cruise control light. The brake pedal switch is responsible for detecting when the brake pedal is depressed, which is necessary for the cruise control system to disengage.

If the switch is failing, it may not properly detect when the brake pedal is pressed, leading to a flashing cruise control light.

Lastly, an issue with the traction control system can cause the cruise control light to flash. The traction control system is closely linked to the cruise control system, and if there is a problem with the traction control system, it can trigger the cruise control light to flash.

It is important to note that these are just potential causes and that a proper diagnosis should be done by a qualified technician to accurately identify the issue and determine the appropriate solution.

Malfunctioning speed sensor

You’re likely noticing your Subaru’s cruise control light flashing because the speed sensor is malfunctioning. This could cause a variety of issues such as:

• Reduced fuel economy
• Poor acceleration
• Unstable speed control
• Erratic RPMs.

It’s best to have the speed sensor inspected and replaced if necessary to ensure your car runs smoothly and efficiently.

Another possible cause of the Subaru cruise control light flashing is a blown fuse. A blown fuse is a sign that the circuit is overloaded and can’t handle the current running through it. In this case, the cruise control system may be shorting out and the fuse must be replaced in order to fix the issue.

Failing brake pedal switch

If the brake pedal switch has failed, it can also be the cause of the Subaru’s cruise control light flashing. The brake pedal switch is a safety feature that helps the cruise control system recognize when the brakes are being applied.

A malfunctioning switch can cause the cruise control system to not work properly, resulting in the light flashing.

Regular inspections of the switch can help identify any problems before they become dangerous. Replacing the switch when necessary can help ensure the cruise control system is working correctly and the flashing light isn’t a cause for alarm.

Traction control system issues

Besides a failing brake pedal switch, another potential cause of the Subaru’s cruise control light flashing is a malfunctioning traction control system. Here are four common culprits:

• Faulty wheel speed sensors
• Worn control unit
• Low tire pressure
• Damaged brake pedal switch.

A malfunctioning traction control system can cause the cruise control light to flash, so it’s important to have it checked by a professional to ensure safe driving .

Malfunctioning mechanical components

Apart from a faulty brake pedal switch, malfunctioning mechanical components can also be responsible for your Subaru’s cruise control light flashing. This includes a problem with the throttle control motor, the cruise control switch, the brake light switch, the cruise control actuator, and the ECU.

Malfunctioning of any of these parts can lead to a flashing cruise control light, and it’s important to get the issue resolved quickly as it can adversely affect the performance of your vehicle.

Failed control module, sensor, or switch issues

Aside from the mechanical components, a failed control module, sensor, or switch can also cause your Subaru cruise control light to flash. If any of these components fail, the cruise control light will start to flash. Here are a few common sources of this issue:

• Electrical connections wearing away
• Corroded wiring
• Malfunctioning switches
• Burned out control module.

It’s important to have your car checked by a qualified mechanic to determine the exact cause of the flashing light.

Throttle actuation problems

Frequently, issues with throttle actuation can also be the culprit behind a Subaru’s flashing cruise control light. When the cruise control light is flashing, it usually means the throttle actuator is in need of service. It can be caused by a malfunctioning throttle position sensor , a bad throttle body, or a faulty electronic throttle control unit.

In any of these cases, the throttle needs to be repaired or replaced. Proper troubleshooting is essential to identify the source of the issue and to ensure a proper repair.

Dirty or malfunctioning cameras (adaptive cruise control)

Continuing on from issues with throttle actuation, dirty or malfunctioning cameras can also be a cause of Subaru’s flashing cruise control light. Reasons include:

• Obstructions blocking the camera’s view
• Damaged camera lens
• Malfunctioning of the camera’s hardware
• Problems with the car’s software.

Dirt, grime, and corrosion can also be factors in camera failure. Be sure to have a professional check the camera’s condition to avoid further issues.

Solutions for Flashing Cruise Control Light

If you’re having trouble with your Subaru’s flashing cruise control light, don’t worry. There are several solutions you can try to get your car back to normal.

• Hook up an OBDII reader to get valuable information.
• Visit the service center at your nearest authorized Subaru dealer.
• Check or replace the brake switch.
• Even disconnect the positive battery cable for 10 minutes and step on the brake pedal for a minute.

Hook up an OBDII reader to get valuable information

Once you’ve hooked up an OBDII reader to your Subaru, you can start to get some valuable information that can help you solve why the cruise control light is flashing. It can:

• Show any trouble codes
• Help you diagnose electrical problems
• Diagnose the engine light
• Provide you with data about your vehicle’s performance.

With this information, you can get a better idea of why your cruise control light is flashing and how to fix it.

Visit the service center at your nearest authorized Subaru dealer

If you’re still unsure what the issue is after hooking up an OBDII reader, then you may want to consider visiting the service center at your nearest authorized Subaru dealer.

The staff at the center have the expertise to diagnose and repair any issues with your vehicle, and they’ll be able to provide you with insight into why the cruise control light is flashing.

They may even be able to suggest a repair or adjustment that can resolve the issue.

Taking your car to the service center is the best way to get the right advice and a quality repair.

Check/replace brake switch

Carrying on from the previous suggestion, the next solution might be to check or replace the brake switch, as it can sometimes be the source of the cruise control light flashing.

To do this, here are 4 steps to follow:

• Find the brake switch and disconnect the wires.
• Check the continuity of the switch with a multimeter.
• If the switch is defective, replace it with a new one.
• Reconnect the wires to the switch and test the cruise control light.

Disconnect the positive battery cable for 10 minutes and step on the brake pedal for a minute

Once the gas cap has been replaced, another solution to try if the cruise control light is still flashing is to disconnect the positive battery cable for 10 minutes and step on the brake pedal for a minute.

To do this:

• Find the positive battery cable.
• Unhook the cable and wait 10 minutes.
• Re-connect the cable.
• Step on the brake pedal for a minute.

This should reset the cruise control light and get your Subaru back on the road.

Final Words

It is important to check why your Subaru’s cruise control light is flashing in order to avoid any potential issues.

Taking the time to diagnose the cause of the flashing light will ensure that your car runs smoothly and safely.

Importance of checking the issue

It’s essential to get your Subaru checked as soon as possible if the cruise control light is flashing. Ignoring the issue could potentially lead to a more serious problem, such as:

• A malfunction in the car’s braking system.
• Damage to the car’s electronic components.
• An unexpected increase in fuel consumption .
• Unintended acceleration.

If you notice the cruise control light flashing, don’t hesitate to take your car to the nearest mechanic. Failing to address the issue can have costly consequences.

Be sure to get your car checked out as soon as possible.

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[SOLVED] Suddenly, WARNING LIGHTS on all at once and no paddle shifting

• Add to quote
• CHECK ENGINE
• AT OIL TEMP (flashing; not always on)
• CRUISE CONTROL (clock-like symbol is flashing)
• HILL ASSIST ( i.e. warning light lit up indicating the Hill Assist is actually OFF)
• VDC (Vehicle Dynamic Control)

To follow up... still have not been driving my car except short distances, but now need to repair (or correct) soon.. Will be calling SOA shortly. Just wondering if anybody in this forum, thinks the dealer could've screwed up the brake lamp recall (or, outside chance, not done anything at all)?.. resulting in my current technical issue? I have recently read a few negative reviews about the dealership that performed the recalls on my Crosstrek.  

There has been many reports of the brake light switch not being adjusted properly causing issues.I haven't heard of that causing the paddle shifters to stop working.However,most people never use them so maybe they just didn't notice they weren't working.  

Marty1 said: You could have a bad battery that isn't taking a full charge. I haven't experienced it with a Crosstrek, but I know the newer Honda CRV's bring up all sorts of unrelated alarms when the battery starts to fail. The fact that the engine still starts does NOT mean the battery is ok. Not driving much would exacerbate the situation. A flooded cell vehicle battery at rest should never read below 12.2 volts, as the plates in the cells will start to sulfate prematurely. Check your battery voltage with a digital voltmeter with the engine shut off and no load on the battery. Here's a chart that gives a guide to battery condition: Click to expand...

I had a loose air hose and my cruise control quit working  

Thanks for the suggestions. We determined our battery to be in good shape. Our local mechanic determined codes to be P700 (generic transmission control - MIL request); C1431 (TCM Fault); C1422 (VDC Interruption for "Engine Convenience"); **MOST RELEVENT code: C2763 (Lock Up Duty Solenoid Circuit High; other solenoid issues). Indications: valve body and/or TCM (transmission control module) issue. He said dealer needed to make repairs or "flash"/reset codes.) All the aforementioned lights and glitches were happening because Crosstrek went into "safe mode" to coerce us to get into the dealership/repair shop pronto, although a flashing CEL light would be even more serious - ours was not flashing. Called SOA and said I was concerned whether these codes indicated a common problem resulting from the two recalls - brake light switch, and valve springs replacement. SOA offered $400 towing cost into Subaru dealership to figure out- 2 hours away. Called dealership for appointment and also found out SOA would likely balk at repair cost because CVT-related repairs (extended warranty) would have to be within 100,000+ miles or happen by 2023. Our XV has over 122K. The Subaru dealership said if codes were accurate, valve body needed replacement (nothing to do with recalls) and would cost about $1300, including $175 diagnosis. They would keep car two to three days and loaner would cost $30/day. I had planned to request from SOA to cover loaner costs. Also, dealership said manager would request repair cost coverage, but doubtful SOA would cover. We decided to research a couple of import mechanics closer to us. Found a mechanic/NAPA repair shop a half hour away who diagnosed same codes for $150. Then, repaired and replaced broken valve body and related solenoids with genuine Subaru kit ordered from aforementioned Subaru dealership... A four-part system as I understand it. NAPA two-year repair warranty includes official Subaru warranty for their valve kit. The NAPA shop felt this issue is common Subaru problem because the dealership had at least four kits in stock. Subaru valve kit about $800+ plus other parts. B illed $1118 plus $150 diagnosis = total about $1270. So, no big savings versus dealership, but time saved from dealing with a towing service, a loaner and getting back a forth for repair two hours away. Also, not sure if SOA would've helped out with loaner or repair/part cost, so decided to take care of it out of pocket, locally...Ouch. Time and (in)convenience is money. We also took calculated risk to drive, not tow, 35 miles to the repair shop. Everything works great now and back to normal. Hope this helps some of you. If your car has less than 100,000 miles and has these issues, get it fixed by 2023 and there's some chance SOA will pay for any CVT-issue repair.  

Hi when you say have it repaired by 2023, doe it mean CVT repairs will still be covered even if you are out of standard warranty coverage>?... cheers  

I know this post is dated but I hope my situation can help someone. I have a 2014 Forester with 133,000 miles. Recently got the Christmas Tree dash of AT oil temp, hill assist, ABS, traction control. Intermittent at first then consistent. When lights were on and driving at any speed rpms would drop to 1000 when foot was removed from the gas pedal. Other than that drove fine, car has always been jerky since we got it a year ago. After plugging in my Autel scanner 1 code was in the transmission for the solenoid Value high. I knew it was the valve body after some quick research. I found that Subaru extended warranty to 100k. Went to my local dealer for official diagnosis and documentation. They said of course it needs a valve body $1500 plus labor plus new fluid $250. I responded “so Subaru won’t do anything with this?” Dealer “no, and your way over 100k so there’s nothing I can do but you can contact. Subaru corporate and see if they will help you.” They were completing the rear spring recall too, so 20 minutes later the service advisor came out and said she had some news. She said she had her manger contact their regional rep at Subaru of America and he agreed to to cover the repair in full because it’s such a common problem. The only stipulation was he requested a fluid change that I would have to cover because it’s considered a normal maintenance item. In the end I paid $262 out the door with new fluid, valve body, rear springs. I hope this information helps someone, thx. If anyone is curious I Live in RI and the dealer was Balise Subaru  

@Joepi Thanks for the great story about SOA support! Recently, I also reconnected with Subaru of America after my last post describing how we finally resolved our Valve Body situation. Months afterwards, I thought it wouldn't hurt to follow through and ask the "SOA Advocate" that had been communicating with me earlier, if SOA would be open to contributing financially to the Valve Body repair even though I did not go to an official Subaru dealership and even though our Crosstrek was sitting at over 100,000 miles; also, given the NAPA mechanic had ordered the official Subaru part/valve body; plus, ultimately I saved SOA the $400 they had offered to cover towing to the dealership a couple hundred miles away. Long story short (and a great ender!): SOA, through my assigned "advocate", agreed to reimburse me $750.00 toward the valve body repair*... basically covering the cost of the part. The advocate said she wanted to offer support for the experience we had to endure and hopefully contribute to ongoing loyalty to the Subaru brand. * We were asked to submit photocopies of our repair estimate and invoice from the mechanic; also, I voluntarily included a photo of the barcode from the new Subaru Valve Body box, which contained the old faulty part, which we had requested to be returned. Indeed, we will be looking into buying a Forester in the future. Love... Is What Makes A Subaru!  

It seems they have been at least giving half off or 1k off very often on these valve body replacements they seem to be the most common issue with the cvt. Always call Subaru of America and try to get some money back towards it, they seem to usually offer some money.  

I've talked to Subaru Canada about this. Most service bulletins issued by SOA apply in Canada, but not necessarily all. Ask your dealer about the TSB in question and they can tell you.  

Marty1 said: I've talked to Subaru Canada about this. Most service bulletins issued by SOA apply in Canada, but not necessarily all. Ask your dealer about the TSB in question and they can tell you. Click to expand...

W0w so any advice on what to start to say to SOA when i call ..?? Ive just replaced my VVT’s x 4 and now getting all warning lights on - hill assist - engine light - ect ect .. 168k 2015 xv limited with eyesight .. had brake light switch replaced via recall at dealer last year or two ago.. acting like same issue again. so after replacing vvt - codes indicate needing to re program my ecm or replace .. so called local subaru shop and asked and they claim i need to Replace it and have something else done to synch up or wont start either .. anticipating cost is billing me as they not called back yet.. also im thinking i may need new seals as oil getting into my dang overflow tank .. wtf .? uhgg .. what else ..hmm codes showing are p0016 p0024 p00B p00D p0014 not always the same tho some are persistent.. but all seem to relate to vvt saying to repair/replace vvt - which i already have done .. so i hoped flashing ecm but now apparently not .:/ as now getting cam codes — About to just dump this car ..:/ don’t want to But also not going to get into this deep when i can use that $ for down on a new ram truck or wrangler or something .. im stuck .  

Sorry to hear of the frustrating end to your fun day but stoked that it all worked out for you. And pleased to hear of your experience with Gold Rush Auburn--that's my dealer and I've wondered how ther service department would be once I have need.  

Hey Mate, after experiencing very similar problems to you. (ABS, hill assist, traction control, at oil temp, emmission and cruise control, the car jumping when accelerating over 20kms) I received advice from the mechanic, he scanned the car with a little system checker and it came up with a bunch of codes, I have been told it is quite possibly the transmission and that it needs to be taken to the dealership so they can work it out. My quote is more than the car is worth, I am not financially ready for this nor do I want to sell the car as I am currently paying it off. I am considering taking my car to another mechanic for a second opinion, as I feel the transmission may not be the answer. Please help!!  

Wife's car had all the same warning lights except engine light. Hooked it to a code reader and it threw a 1431 code. After much research seemed to point to either valve body $2k replacement cost) or brake light pressure switch ($35 part). Decided to try the pressure switch first before taking it to a mechanic, although confirmed brake lights were working. 1/2 hr to install but all warning lights were still on. No issues with car other than paddle shifters and cruuse control not working. Planning on taking it to a mechanic on mon but needed to move my daughter over the weekend 60 miles away. On way home i heard a beep and warning lights went out! I remember reading somewhere that in sometimes it takes a while for warning lights to clear so glad i did not take to a mechanic as it would likely have cost 2k for a valve bidy replacement. Saw many articles about 1st replacing brake pressure switch, which did not make the light go out, so assumed it was valve body and had mechanic replace. Wondering if it just needed some miles to clear. Hope this helps others not make this mistake.  

I'm happy this thread exists, it's been immensely helpful so thank you. I've been pulling my hair out over this exact same issue with my 2013 XV Crosstrek (120k miles). I thought the issue originally had to do with my battery (which died, had to jumpstart, then recharged) and/or hot weather when the warning lights fired off. I replaced the old battery which I thought fixed the problem until about 5 or 10 miles of driving until the warning lights were set off again. I finally pulled the exact same codes with an OBD Scanner P0700 & P2764. I have yet to get it officially diagnosed, but I'm pretty confident it's a solenoid issue and I'm going to need a valve body replacement.  

Joepj said: I know this post is dated but I hope my situation can help someone. I have a 2014 Forester with 133,000 miles. Recently got the Christmas Tree dash of AT oil temp, hill assist, ABS, traction control. Intermittent at first then consistent. When lights were on and driving at any speed rpms would drop to 1000 when foot was removed from the gas pedal. Other than that drove fine, car has always been jerky since we got it a year ago. After plugging in my Autel scanner 1 code was in the transmission for the solenoid Value high. I knew it was the valve body after some quick research. I found that Subaru extended warranty to 100k. Went to my local dealer for official diagnosis and documentation. They said of course it needs a valve body $1500 plus labor plus new fluid $250. I responded “so Subaru won’t do anything with this?” Dealer “no, and your way over 100k so there’s nothing I can do but you can contact. Subaru corporate and see if they will help you.” They were completing the rear spring recall too, so 20 minutes later the service advisor came out and said she had some news. She said she had her manger contact their regional rep at Subaru of America and he agreed to to cover the repair in full because it’s such a common problem. The only stipulation was he requested a fluid change that I would have to cover because it’s considered a normal maintenance item. In the end I paid $262 out the door with new fluid, valve body, rear springs. I hope this information helps someone, thx. If anyone is curious I Live in RI and the dealer was Balise Subaru Click to expand...

Just had this issue come up, and getting to this thread fast helped me and saved a ton of time. I have a 2013, under 100k. All lights came on, with the flashing oil temp light. Got towed to a dealership, and was able to point them in this direction from the start. Confirmed the issues, and confirmed covered up to 100k. Thanks to anyone who posted here before.  

It happened to our 2016 Crosstrek at 59500 miles. Dealer repaired it under warranty. It just happened again at 146000 miles. I’m not happy.  

Since this thread was so helpful to me and it helped me avoid a trip to the mechanic which i guarantee would have ended with a bill no less than 1k i am sharing my experience. I am driving a 2014 subaru impreza and suddenly my “at oil temp” light starting blinking and the lights came on for my uphill and abs its over 100k miles and i know its a matter of time before the transmission starts failing but i looked at some of the solutions on this thread and found that sometimes a faulty battery can set off these signals and i found white powder built up on one of the pos/neg terminals. i unscrewed it, tapped the white cake build up off and rescrewed it and since then the lights have not returned. tomorrow im buying a new battery and it should run for at least a little while longer. Thank you everyone for your replies and posts, you’re amazing! Except for the people who just “took it to the dealership and it was fixed,” very unhelpful. By!  

Has anyone tried replacing your ground wires, battery cables, etc.??  

Has anyone connected this issue to the faulty TCM? 2013 Crosstrek here. Took it in for Key/stuck in ignition issue (98,000 mi) and told them to check for issues with the TCM because there was an intermittent clicking sound coming from under shifter when approaching stop lights. They had my car for weeks because they only had one technician that could pull the engine to fix the key issue. I get it back and was so glad they fixed a list of issues. A year later- Dash lights up. I take it in-drivability fine except for the burnt trans oil smell. Same guy behind counter. He never noted the problem and I can't expect him to remember. Of course, now a code pops up indicating TCM. Embarrassed to say- my Grand Cherokee made the same sound and they replaced it without hesitation..  

I have been having issues with my 2014 Forester since Nov 2022 where all the lights come on - ABS, engine light, uphill assist, cruise control. My local dealership has been fixing a plethora of issues every time. I first replaced the A/F sensor, had the CVT trans removed, cleaned, dried, resealed, and a decarb, fuel-injection kit redone for a whopping $2217. Then I went back in in Feb 2023 for the same set of lights and that time, they installed a new exhaust manifold and replaced the gaskets for another $865. The array of lights came on again in May 2023 and that time they only updated my software (it apparently should have been done but hadn't the previous time I was in). No charge for that one. The lights came on again the following month (June 2023) and that time they adjusted my break lamp switch saying it wasn't always making contact. The lights came on again in Oct 2023 and it was recommended that I replace the mass air flow sensor (replaced it myself). Went back in this month for the same lights (plus the At Oil Temp light) and was told to replaced both O2 sensors, wheel bearings and resealed axels (because apparently those mechanical issues could also cause the engine lights to come on) and paid $2400. Less than 75 miles after picking up my car, the same set of lights came on (this time the at oil temp light did not come on, just the uphill assist, abs, engine, etc), my car did a weird thing where the whole dash flashed and then it shut off, took it in immediately, and was told that the transmission valve body needed to be replaced. I ordered the part and got it done (another $2000), called SOA but they said I was too far out of the 10 year, 100k warranty to help me. My car is at 122k miles. I picked up my car yesterday and it's shuddering a bit. This morning the dashboard flashed at me and it felt like it was going to shut off (I was coming to a stop at a stop sign). What are your recommendations?  

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Flashing cruise light?

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So.......... I ran out of fuel (don't ask) going down a big hill, with cruise on. When coming up the other side, I forgot I had cruise engaged, and the fuel must have ran to the other end of the tank, so the car started running again. When it kicked in, it was revving 4500rpm, so I hit the cancel switch on the wheel. Car finally died, out of gas. When I got fuel, started car, now cruise light is flashing, and cruise doesn't work. My check engine light is also on. Any suggestions? I haven't checked fuses or anything yet, this just happened on my way to work, and I'm here now. I'll get looking later today.  

Gotta find out why the CEL is on. Cruise doesn't work if the CEL is on.  

I had the same problem twice while in cruise control. The shop says that the car every so often runs a test of the fuel vapor system and if it finds a leak or anything else, the Cruise light flashes and the check-engine light comes on. The first thing they check is if the gas cap is on correctly. After two days of testing and help from the factory they could not find anything wrong. So, a case number was opened with the factory and they gave me a new gas cap.  

Could be a loose evap hose. Get the code checked out and that will point you in a better direction.  

Funny, I got in my car started it, adjusted the seat way forward to make room for dude in back and I must of hit cruise while not moving anywhere or maybe bumped it with my leg and I noticed it flashing. I drove a bit trying to set it and cancel it to no avail. At a stop light I shut the car off and turned it back on and it stopped flashing. Haven't tried to use cruise yet again but will see if it still works now. I think it started flashing because it thought I was trying to set it without actually moving anywhere..No CEL or anything either..(knock on wood)..  

Cruise control indicator light The cruise control indicator light illuminates when the ignition switch is turned to the “ON” position and turns off after approximately 3 seconds. This light illuminates when the “CRUISE” main switch is pressed. If you press the main switch button while turning the ignition switch “ON”, the cruise control function is deactivated and the “CRUISE” indicator light flashes. To reactivate the cruise control function, turn the ignition switch back to the “Acc” or “LOCK” position, and then turn it again to the “ON” position.​ Click to expand...

NOTE *If (the CRUISE) indicator light and the CHECK ENGINE warning light/malfunction indicator lamp flash simultaneously during driving, have the vehicle checked by your nearest SUBARU dealer.​ Click to expand...

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SI-Drive and cruise control flashing on my 2020 sti

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I just bought a new 2020 sti when I was driving home from the dealer and I was getting on the freeway several light came on I’m new to Subaru’s I need help the lights are check engine cruise control S drive hill assist and traction control  

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If you just purchased this car and this just happened, id drive it right back to the dealer lol.  

Yeah I would too, but if you have an OBDII reader I would see why the check engine list is triggered. That may be the reason why the rest of the light are on.  

Cruise is angry because the CEL is on. My guess is ABS or WSS is upset setting everyone off. The ABS feeds info to lots of different modules. I'm with Jay though, I'd turn right around haha  

I had the same thing, basically this is "limp mode". Pulled the codes and it was lean condition on mine. Dealer said a loose gas cap could cause it, but it can be various things. After reset, it hasn't happened again.  

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Cruise control indicator light blinking

• Thread starter wsw483
• Start date Jan 15, 2015

• Jan 15, 2015

On my 04 Ultra the indicator light for the cruise control blinks on and off between the red and green colors when the cruise control is in the "OFF" position. When I turn the cruise control on and set it everything works as it should and the light stays on a solid green. It acts like there is a loose wire somewhere but I don't know exactly where to look. This problem only happens when the cruise control is in the off position. The light just kinda flickers between red and green. Any ideas????  

Experienced Member

I think I would start with the switch housing on the right side. Check all the wiring to make sure nothing is loose and that there is no corrosion. It may be that the set switch is so worn that it will need to be replaced.  

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I would lead towards a code. If you have service manual it should tell you how to pull the code/codes for your model. I wou;d check for codes first before going into the wiring. tourbox  

Correction please. I meant to say " I would lean towards a code" not lead. My bad tourbox  

Jack Klarich

Harley Davidson Forums Try here first  

• Jan 21, 2015

No codes showing. As for the "set switch", could all of the cruise control functions still be working if the switch was bad? My cruise works perfectly, it's just that the dang light blinks when going down the road with the cruise off. One thing I forgot to mention is that the light flickers as if there is a loose connection. It is not a steady blink. Could a loose or corroded connection make this happen or would it have to be a switch shorted etc. before the light could get power. It happens even with the cruise control switch in the off position. Thanks in advance for any help or ideas.  

• Jan 22, 2015

wsw483 said: No codes showing. As for the "set switch", could all of the cruise control functions still be working if the switch was bad? My cruise works perfectly, it's just that the dang light blinks when going down the road with the cruise off. One thing I forgot to mention is that the light flickers as if there is a loose connection. It is not a steady blink. Could a loose or corroded connection make this happen or would it have to be a switch shorted etc. before the light could get power. It happens even with the cruise control switch in the off position. Thanks in advance for any help or ideas. Click to expand...

Junior Member

Spray some radio shack control contact cleaner and lubricant in the switches. It's a cheaper version of DeoxIT. See if that helps. RadioShack TV Tuner Cleaner : Cleaners | RadioShack.com  

• Jan 26, 2015

"OK I did the check on the diagnostics and this is what came up. 113 122 122 122 111 111 111 112 What is this telling me? I see that the 111 code is good(no codes,memory clear) 122 says the front or rear break was applied but it wasn't. 113 (cruise control switch off) and 112 is (throttle roll off) I got all this information and am not sure what it is telling me. The light still flickers (even sitting in my garage in neutral with the motor running) Again, everything works great but this light flickering thing is driving me crazier! Any advice or help would be appreciated. " wsw483 wrote above in another thread. I just copied it here to keep it in one thread. I think the 122 & 112 are just logged because the cruise was shut off that way sometime in the past and you do not have any problem codes. Can you shut down the cruise by turning the switch off? Probably since the green light is flickering and not steady. I'm thinking the switch is starting to short thru to the on position or your getting some stray voltage to that courtesy light from moisture or something. In any of those scenarios you would not throw a code-you can drive all day with the switch on and not use the cruise.  

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Like stray dog said.... Probably the Switch off n on... IF you hold the switch OFF with your Pinch-finger does it Stay OFF? Try That... signed....BUBBIE  

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Check Engine Light Flashing Cruise

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Scenario: Started car this AM, ran fine, went shopping. After shopping, started car and check engine light came on w/ flashing cruise. turned car off, let sit for 5 min or so turned back on same thing, CEL w/ flashing cruise. Drove home 50 miles straight to the dealer, car ran fine the whole way home. Got to the dealer turned the car off and went inside. They told me to come back around 1:30 because they were busy. Since I'm local I said ok and went back to my car to drive home. This time I started the car and no lights came on, car still runs fine. Got home, turned car off waited 5 min or so again and turned it back on w/ no lights coming on. Back to normal? I'm supposed to be going out of town this weekend...should I still bring the car in to get looked at or is it pointless since no CEL is on and the car runs fine. 2006 wrx wagon completely stock, done all regular maintenance at Subaru, 35K tune-up/oil change done 2 weeks ago. Any of you experienced this glitch before? Thanks in advanced for any info.  

all i can tell ya is that I believe when the CEL comes on for any reason it disables the Cruise Control so that is why your Cruise Light is flashing....  

The CEL flashing and the cruise flashing is a bad thing. It signals some sort of misfire or knock condition. Take the care immediately to AutoZone or some other parts store to get the code read. Just because the lights not on anymore doesn't mean that the code is gone from the computer. Once you have the trouble code, post it back up here and we'll go from there. FYI - the cruise light flashing doesn't mean that it's disabled.  

I believe he said the CEL was on but NOT flashing. A steady CEL on and flashing cruise indicates something is wrong emissions-related. Normally this is not a serious thing. Since the light is now off I would not worry about bringing is back to the dealer.  

Either way, I'd get the code read at an AutoZone just to put my mind at ease.  

Thanks Thank you all for the advice you gave. SRM is correct, the CEL is on but NOT flashing while the cruise IS flashing. Anyhow, since the lights went off after I went to the dealer (to inquire about having them check it...They were busy) and the car seemed to be running fine I decided to take a chance and go on my Labor Day trip. Went to Napa through some twisties and the car ran fine. On my way home I stopped off at a winery to pick up a couple bottles, when I come back out and get ready to leave, I start the car and the lights come on again. Drove all the way home (70mi) and the car ran fine to redline. so tomorrow I have an apt at Subaru...hope it goes well and doesn't cost me too much.  

I stripped my intercooler out last nite and checked all plugs...sprayed q20 and clipped them back.. found one plug loose...its located above the starter and leads to the plastic turbo thingy next to the batery.. i then rest ecu and problem is gone..  

I had same problem, CEL steady, Cruise flashing and I'm totally stock mind you, first owner. reset ECU and light went off (at least up until now). btw psychobooe, does your local autozone still do free OBDII checks? I'm in cali and they say they don't anymore.  

Ours in Oregon don't do it anymore, and that pisses me off. I told them I would take my business elsewhere, but NAPA, Schmucks, and the other auto parts places don't do it anymore either. >_<  

you can always go to a schucks and rent a scanner, usually they'll just take your drivers license for a deposit or you might have to put some money down but you get it all back when you return it.  

Help!!!,.. i changed the stock downpipe and midpipe on my 2007 wrx, replaced it with a single ap racing pipe it fit nice and sounds nice too,.. anyways later that night I was drving home about 80mph in 5th gear and downshifted for a sec,then back to 5th and the same thing happened the CEL turned on with the flashing cruise light,... i heard the first thing you should check is the 02 sensor,.. except i dont know how to properly check it or turn off the 02 senor or the cel or blinking cruise.. wat should I do? and i'm sure i voided the warrenty putting on the new pipe,.. so cant go to the dealer cause they'll really void it if they see it. i could take it off and place the stock back on if i must go to the dealer but i'm hoping i dont need to  

Autozone does not offer the code readers anymore. My work truck had a CEL come on so i figure take it down there and read the code myslef and they said we cant offer them anymore because mechanics were saying that makes it to easy for us to fix our cars.  

thats strange I took mine to the auto zone across the street and they did it for free in arizona. I don't know if you are talking about your area or the francise all toghter.  

Hello I have a stage 4 2006 WRX heavily modded. I did an oil change last night and went down to the shell gas station and got a full tank of premium with a bottle a injector cleaner put in as well. Now we put in 10W 30 instead of 5W 30 according to the cap for the oil don't think that would make a difference and I confirmed that with Auto zone; but the next day me and my wife where driving home and the engine light came on (solid light) and cruise started flashing??? for some reason I took it to Auto zone that same hour it came on and they plugged it in to there code scanner and it never connected or gave any info either? any suggestions? Thanks!  

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Here's what all those dashboard warning lights mean

Brake warning light.

T he bracketed circle with the exclamation screamer is the most searched for dashboard icon. It’s possibly the most important, too. If it’s flagging, check the handbrake. Even the electronic ones. Still red? [Deep intake of breath] Time to call the garage.

Airbag warning light

No, that is not a person sitting back enjoying a full Strawberry Moon sunset. The giant dot above the person is meant to indicate an airbag warning, so if you see this icon flash up, you might not be protected in a collision. Best get it checked out.

Battery Warning Light

The plus/minus symbols in the rectangle denote the 12V battery that provides starter power. If it's not charging, or the alternator's failed, this icon pops up. Jump leads or power pack at the ready.

Battery power

We're all really used to seeing an electricity bolt through a battery as an indication for charging, but in this case, you need to charge your electric vehicle battery, not your mobile or 12V pack. Initially, this icon will be orange, but could switch to red.

There's actually a few icons to denote ports that are open when they should be closed. The boot, the bonnet, the car doors.

Be good: pull over, check and resolve, like the model driver we know you can be.

Anti-lock braking system (ABS) warning

Since the '80s, electronic gizmos have made your car safer. In the event of a hard brake, you could lock your wheels and skid. ABS is designed to prevent that (by rapidly reducing and increasing the brake pressure if it senses locking). If this light shows unexpectedly, you need to get it checked out.

Seatbelt warning light

It's been the law to wear a belt since 1983. This icon is a modern classic, but now, with sensors fitted for the front and rear passengers, you'll hear the ping – even if it's just a heavy bag on the seat. Drivers can be fined for any passengers under the age of 14 not wearing a belt, if caught.

Power steering warning light

The power steering helps the wheel to feel lighter to turn. Any time an exclamation mark turns up next to an icon, it indicates there's a fault. If the power steering isn't working, the car may still be drivable. Just expect to put in more effort than usual.

Night vision animal warning

And just like a modern car's ability to detect human traffic, the capability to see animals on pitch black country roads can be life-saving – for all involved. In more premium models, you might also get an infra-red camera image on the head-up display, SAS-style.

Check engine light

Perhaps the most panic-inducing of all the warning lights, the engine management light (EML) tells you if you have a potential issue with the engine, exhaust or emissions.

Running low on oil is one (orange) thing, running out (red) will cause untold harm to your engine and result in some hefty repair bills. Protect your vital organs from the black market, check your oil on the regular.

Tyre pressure

Showing tyre tread on a one-dimensional icon is completely impossible. Don't be embarrassed if you never really understood this icon – it does look like a one-eyed monster. It's all about your car's TPMS – tyre pressure management system. Once you've reinflated your tyres, you'll probably need to reset something to clear the warning light, too.

Low fuel warning light

We debated whether or not to include this one. It's too obvious and needs little explanation. If that orange light is on, though, you've got fewer than 50 miles – depending on how fast you're travelling. Sometimes arrows indicate the side your fuel tank is on... sometimes not. Don't worry, the pump hose will stretch.

Electronic Stability Program/Control (ESP/ESC) warning

The electronic stability program, or control – shortened to ESP or ESC – is (now) a legally required crash avoidance feature working in the background. If there's a loss of control, it applies braking to the wheels spinning more quickly to help the driver regain control. Sometimes found in a triangle. The light, that is, not the wheels.

Coolant temperature - engine warning

The toothbrush coming out of the ocean is actually supposed to denote a thermometer. When temps get too hot, Houston, you have a problem. Orange is low, red is 'pull over, turn it off and pray nothing's melted'. Or something.

Active lane departure

If this feature has been activated and you don’t put your indicators on before you make a lane change, you might find your car will try and pull you back to the centre of your lane. Like an omnipotent force working against you...

Electrical fault (EV)

Of course, driving an electric car isn't all rainbows and cupcakes. If your EV has developed an electrical fault, then you're not going anywhere, signposted by something that looks like this. And the fact you're not moving anywhere, of course.

Limited EV power

When you're warned you've got low battery, that's the time to charge. Cut it too fine and you might see this little fella light up. This Aesop-inspired tortoise indicates that power is limited and you'll be forced to a crawl.

Forward collision warning

Known as FCW or FCA, the forward collision warning (or alert) icon can help you go about your day without drama. Anecdotally, some systems can be a bit cautious at the sight of a shadow, flashing BRAKE! before your very eyes. Either that, or it's sensed something supernatural, which is perhaps scarier.

Headlamp light

It might look like some icon designer had an issue with a child's drawing of the sun. Instead the lamp warning light indicates an issue with the headlights. You'll find that icon dotted about your cabin wherever there's a light, but the dash icon only refers to the headlamps.

Icy road conditions

As we creep (rapidly) towards winter, you'll be seeing your car's temperature gauge flashing snowflakes as it indicates more risky driving conditions. When it's icy, your car's dash will let you know with a symbol like this.

Speed limiter

Now mandated on all new cars since July 2022 , speed limiters are currently optional to use. They're particularly useful for average speed zones where a deviation from the stated limit can land you a hefty fine and points on your licence. 

Mechanical fault

One of the more compelling arguments for picking an EV is the fewer components and less servicing and maintenance required. Great news for your wallet. That's not to say you'll never have mechanical problems, though. See this orange light and you'll need to get onto your garage. 

Washer fluid warning

The washer fluid icon is a busy one featuring plenty of action: spray, a screen, moisture on said screen. If it's on, you're running low on washer fluid. It's particularly annoying in the more inclement months where muddy surface water, flicked up from lorries, is all your wipers can shift. Take a refillable bottle in the car just in case.

Night vision pedestrian warning

No matter your views on autonomous driving, the car's ability to detect potential obstacles, like people on the road, in the dark (when human vision is arguably most compromised) is something very few of us would criticise.

Active Driver Assist

Using facial recognition cameras, Active Driver Assist checks you're not snoozing while you're cruising. Often accompanied by a message to take a break, this icon may turn orange or red, depending on the intensity of the issue detected.

Auto Glide Control

EVs can legitimately coast. When that's happening, this 'auto-glide' dash icon lets you know. AGC helps you make the most of your electric range – note, this icon also looks like a foot lifting off a pedal or a green leaf in some models. 

Automatic high-beam lights

Cool LED matrix technology switches off the lights when it detects approaching cars and shuts the brightness down in that specific area more responsively. Blinding.

Cruise control active

Some cars have cruise control activation on the steering wheel controls, others on its own independent stalk. Green means it's activated, allowing you to relieve your right ankle of its usual duty. It's not for everyone, but it can be useful (and more comfortable) on longer motorway stints.

Cruise control distance monitor

Setting the distance between you and the car in front is an evolution of cruise control. Once you've worked out yours, press this one to select how much distance your car will be from the one in front. If the little car icon doesn't appear, or goes white, it's likely the radar hasn't picked up a car to follow.

When you're in economy mode in your hybrid or electric vehicle, this helpful green flag will show. Acceleration won't be quite as instantaneous but your juice should last a bit longer. What it stands for remains a mystery to this day.

EV Ready mode

As tech moves on, there are more green icons to remind you something is acting positively... like this friendly little reminder that you're running on zero emissions.  All you hybrid drivers should also benefit from better fuel economy too.

Night vision indicator

The night vision feature is one of those newer features, more often found on ultra-premium cars or expensive upgrade packages. Like your airbag, it's a passive technology. You don't know it's there until you need it. When the sensors detect low or no light, night vision will kick in, and this green icon will illuminate to let you know the car's got your back. Neat.

Stop/start technology is loved like Marmite. Intended to cut emissions when you're stopped waiting at lights, or outside schools, or idling for a while, this emissions-reducing tech is getting better. When it's in operation, you'll get a green A icon, just like this.  

E-Mode for hybrids

This dash icon is E-mode for hybrids. When the line is through the letter, it indicates that the feature isn't available. It often flags up when you're driving faster than the car can recharge the battery. Since the car can't replace the juice, you have to take your foot off the gas to get E-mode activation back.

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Cruise control light flashing???

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Hey guys!! I am a new owner of an Outback 06 and lately, I am having trouble with my cruise control... I had it on when I was driving on a dry road (60mph) and all of a sudden the cruise control stopped working and the cruise light and the check engine came on.... And the cruise light started to flash. It's been doing that since it last occurred... Did it happen to any of you guys?? Is it a sensor or a breaker?? Thanks for the help!!  

You need to stop by an autoparts store and borrow their code scanner. The code may be preventing cruise from coming on.  

So if there was a misfire and the plugs and wires need to be changed as these were the codes, this would cause the check engine light and cruise to blink. Sorry just bought a Subaru 08 legacy 2.5i and has been sitting for almost 2 yrs  

The cruise will blink telling you it's disabled when the car senses a problem. Generally you will have a CEL along with it but, if it's a pending code, I've heard that sometimes only the Cruise will blink. Did you goof around and do burnouts in the dirt ? I know it can happen from excessive spinning of the wheels [the TCU will get confused and set a pending code, also the cruise will blink] Other issues could be, Knock sensor code from some bad gas, "gas cap code" [forget the number] from a loose gas cap and others but, lets start there.  

actually i was going in straight line, driving very normal, dry asphalt on a sunny day.... But it stopped blinking yesterday night... Its the second time it does that and i started to think is the cable to the cruise control unit...Gas is fine (87 grade) and the cap was on properly... any other ideas....  

You need to get the CEL code read (PXXX) and bring that code back here. The CEL is preventing your Cruise from working and the Cruise light is flashing to tell you it can't work. You may be able to disconnect your positive battery cable for 10 mins and step on the brake pedal for a minute to reset the ECU. That may put the CEL out and allow your cruise to work. If the CEL comes back on after you do that, you will need to get the code read.  

miker104 said: You may be able to disconnect your positive battery cable for 10 mins and step on the brake pedal for a minute to reset the ECU. That may put the CEL out and allow your cruise to work. Click to expand...

Alright, Thanks guys for the help!!! next time it happens i'll try your trick!! But for some reasons it works fine now...  

JF, our '05 set-off the CEL and blinking cruise light twice following a loss of power which brought the vehicle down to 10 - 15 kph. Both times it coded a faulty accelerator assembly. This (ghostwalking) car is now on its 3rd accelerator assembly. Hopefully your warning light faults are relatively harmless.  

the exact same thing happened to me last night at 2 a.m.. i was driving on the interstate, came upon a horrible storm, then stopped for a while. the rain let up a bit, but the check engine light came on and the cruise flashed. i had to keep on driving to get home, and it's the same this morning. i checked the gas cap and will try the battery disconnect/brake peddle trick. thanks miker104! so, i could take my car to advance auto parts and they scan for free? they do that?  

I took delivery of a 2004 3.0 Outback on the 27th May, and the lights came on less than 100 yards from the dealer...they have had the car ever since, finally traced it to a faulty TCU and a whole host of other faults...so they contacted me yesterday, they are cancelling the deal and giving me an 06 2.5 OB A/T at cost price...still with maintenance contract...only 46000 km on the clock, so it looks as if I got a sweet deal! ;D @marcc - Don't you have a dealer you can take it to? They usually check and re-set the thing in about 10 minutes...99% of the time it is your cat that is at fault.  

You got a great deal! The 3.0 is not as good as the 2.5 in my opinion. The dealers usually charge for reading codes, unless you tell them to also make the repairs. I prefer to knowing what the code is before entering a dealership, just in case I can do the repair myself.  

Most autoparts store will either lend you the use of a scanner to use in the parking lot. Pepboys and Autozone will have a store clerk read the codes for you, but they will not clear any. Yes, CEL = check engine light.  

@paulO, i bought it form a dealer, but it's an '05, so out of warranty. "You may be able to disconnect your positive battery cable for 10 mins and step on the brake pedal for a minute to reset the ECU. i've disconnected the + cable, do i press the brake during or after the cable is off? or does it matter? side note: just before the rainstorm, i noticed the parking lights didn't come on nor the fog lights. is this related? last week, i had to replace the low beam bulb (i did both even tho one was out). did mess something up doing that?  

Marc, Pushing on the brake pedal with the battery disconnected ensures a complete ground to the electronics. But, now you don't know what code was stored and what the error might have been. Plus, you ruined the computer's drive cycle and if you are in a state that checks your car for emmision controls, it will fail the check until the drive cycle is complete. As for the lights, you probably did not home the plugs enough.  

i pressed the brake after re-connecting the battery. the engine turned over for a few seconds and started up. no check light or flashing cruise light! klausc, good point on not knowing the code. i live in south carolina, and they don't check for emissions here (we do lots of other crazy stuff, however) my fog lights now work, don't know why. (it was operator error on the parking lights i think: last night i flipped the switch on the steering column, but didn't move the light switch on the stalk to the correct setting). thanks for everyone's help.  

Thanks klausc - the 3.0 litre was certainly very impressive to drive, but I am already totally sold on the 2.5 so will not miss all that extra power at all, plus there's the added bonus of much better fuel consumption!  

reviving the thread... I'd like to report that I had my Cruise control light blinking (but NOT the CEL) while going off road on a very messy snowy road (12 inch deep). I was in second gear and pushing a bit to keep my momentum. RPM was around 3000-5000 and turbo spooling. Everything was running fine though. My guess is AWD or CC started to get confused with all the wheels spinning in an unusual way. What do you guys think?  

My guess is AWD or CC started to get confused with all the wheels spinning in an unusual way. Click to expand...

interesting..I forgot to mention that after that, I turned off the car, went on our planned hike in the deep snow with my wife, came back, turned on the car and all was well. Nothing flashing, nothing weird. First time ever this happened but I have to say I was gunning it through the snow packed road to keep my momentum (gunning but overall speed limit was just maybe 20 mph cause it was REAL bumpy and only drove like that for like 30 seconds). So I know for sure it was spinning like crazy. But again, NO CEL light.  

Guys, I wonder what would cause the blinking cruise control light to go off and on and also CEL turn on. This morning driving home I was using the cruise control going on the highway at the speed limit which is 70. After 10 minutes of driving I noticed the lights blinking. I followed your instructions disconnected the positive cable for 10 minutes and pressed on the brakes for a minute. The blinking lights went away. Curious to know what caused the lights to blink. Totally weird. Thank you NRHTX  

If your CEL turned on, then you had a code stored. You should have checked out that code before resetting the ECU. If it pops again, go to Autozone and get them to plug their code reader to your OBD2 port. Record the code and report back.  

You guys rock. If it happens again I will go to AutoZone Thank you  

You're welcome.  

Man as I was backing out of my garage. My car was acting up. I pulled out of the garage and noticed that the engine was not performing normal. I turn around and the car turned off on me. Tomorrow at 0630am a tow truck will pickup my OB and straight to the dealer. I wonder if it has something to do with the catalyc converter. I am so happy I purchased extended warranty.  

My check engine light just came on along with a flashing cruise control light, its done this before and both turned off after about a day, so I'm thinking this will just turn off too but I will go to autozone in the morning and have them get the code if its still on by then.  

Hi Mark, This happened to me twice. Finally I took it to the dealer and they discovered that 1 of the cat converters was bad. I was so happy that I was still within warranty on my 2008 OB LL Bean Edition. It was my rear converter. The problem went away, its been 2 months  

CEL and Cruise Control Flashing Hey everyone. I looked around for any topics about a CEL/Cruise Control Light flashing. It actually happened to me this afternoon. A friend of mine has an OBII scanner and I found out the code it is showing is for "catalytic efficiency below range". Would that have anything to do with why the CC light wod now be flashing? It all started at the same time.  

Wreckermedic said: Hey everyone. I looked around for any topics about a CEL/Cruise Control Light flashing. It actually happened to me this afternoon. A friend of mine has an OBII scanner and I found out the code it is showing is for "catalytic efficiency below range". Would that have anything to do with why the CC light wod now be flashing? It all started at the same time. Click to expand...

CEL/CC FLASH..... Rough idle? I have also noticed that within the last 2-3 weeks my OB has started to idle very rough when I am stopped at a red light. It only idles rough when I am in drive. If I out it into park it smoothed out and runs fine. I'm assuming that too could be related back to the catalytic converter?  

Whenever the check engine light (MIL) is on, the cruise control is automatically disabled. That's why the cruise control light is flashing -- to tell you that it won't work. Find out what the trouble code was rather than the description. It should be in the form of P#### ("P" followed by four numbers). Then do a search here for that code, or post it and others will help with it. If it's a P0420, there's lots of posts -- it's a very common code -- and there's a few good threads about it. For example, see: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...ce/49537-p0420-diag.html?highlight=P0420+Diag  

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I really wanted to love the LiveWire S2 Del Mar

By Dan Carney

Posted on May 29, 2024 8:15 PM EDT

8 minute read

Don't expect a comfortable cruise on the LiveWire S2 Del Mar. LiveWire

Riding electric motorcycles like the LiveWire S2 Del Mar and the Zero SR takes some getting used to when you’re coming from a typical bike with a combustion engine. Where’s the clutch lever? The left side handlebar is nearly bare save for a bar-end mirror. The difference is jarring. 

Thumb the main power switch on the right handlebar to the “on” position and press the “start” button embedded in its center and the LiveWire is ready to roll. This boot-up process takes a few seconds from when you switch on until the bike is ready to go, so it actually takes longer than starting a combustion bike, which is a surprise. Underway, the Del Mar’s 84-horsepower, 194-lb.-ft. electric motor blasts the bike to 60 mph in an effortless 3.0 seconds, with a top speed of 103 mph.

As a subsidiary of Harley-Davidson, LiveWire’s nearly silent electric bikes mark a significant departure for the company that once tried (unsuccessfully) to trademark the very sound of its signature V-twin engines. But while Harleys were the primary source of the thunder in the annual Rolling Thunder Memorial Day rides to the Vietnam Veterans Memorial in Washington, D.C., the company recognizes that it sells bikes in the future, not in the past.

That future is electric, so Harley is positioning itself via LiveWire to begin introducing riders to the experience of riding without combustion. Silence has its own advantages, for example. And electric power can be precisely metered and applied according to preset preferences.

Selecting your riding mode

The Del Mar offers four riding modes that are easily selectable using a mode button on the right-side handlebar controls. They are Sport, Road, Range, Rain, and Custom. Predictably, response to the twistgrip speed controller (it isn’t “throttling” anything) is sharper and more immediate in the Street and Sport modes and softer in Range and Rain. 

In Range mode, the bike prioritizes regeneration when you let off the throttle in order to keep as much charge in the battery as possible. That causes the bike to quickly slow down as soon as you let up. Range mode cranks regeneration up to 80 percent. It drops to 65 percent for Sport, 35 percent for Road, and a gentle 20 percent in Rain to avoid sliding the rear wheel in slippery conditions.

The high deceleration in Range mode means you can’t really take you right hand off to point out objects in the road. I learned this the hard way when pointing out a black snake to the Harley bagger behind me on a rural highway. You’ll need to be quick with that mode switch in such situations if you like to leave the bike in its high-regen mode for longer riding range.

It is also harder to point out such things and to respond to the motorcyclists’ courtesy wave with your left hand because the bar-end rearview mirrors’ mounts obstruct the end of the handlebars. You get used to that, I suppose. The view through the mirrors is decent for a sporty bike. That handlebar has no vibration from a combustion engine’s pulses, so there is none of the finger numbness that such vibration can induce while riding the S2.

LiveWire equips the S2 with a credible horn, which is possibly more frequently necessary when riding a silent bike. I did find that people were merging into my lane with greater-than-usual frequency while riding the silent Del Mar. This seemed to have more to do with their inattention, cell phone use, or other incompetence, but the bike’s silence could have contributed.

How’s the ride?

You know the feeling, when pushing a shopping cart across a supermarket parking lot and it jostles and jars your eggs on ever crack in the asphalt, no matter how seemingly insignificant? That’s how the S2 rides. It is absolutely punishing.

I experienced a similarly harsh ride with the Rivian R1S and chalked it up to an overly aggressive attempt to control the ride motions of a vehicle with a very heavy battery. But with its 10.5 kilowatt-hour lithium-ion battery, the S2 Del Mar weighs 436 lbs. That is pretty much the same as my Honda CBR600 with fuel, and it is significantly lighter than the BMW CE 04 electric scooter ’s 509 lbs. of mass, so weight is not the issue here.

The fully adjustable 43-mm inverted Showa cartridge fork and rebound-adjustable rear monoshock seem like capable hardware, so it should be a matter of correcting the spring and damping rates. Fortunately, there is some adjustability in the LiveWire’s suspension, which lets the rider adjust the fork’s damping rates and the spring preload and rebound damping of the rear shock.

Witness marks on the adjusters showed that these had been adjusted by someone previously, and the as-delivered settings were terrible. Worse, there was variation left-to-right in the shock’s settings, as the left tube was two turns out from full soft and the right side was ¾ of a turn from full soft. Technical numbers aside, misalignment in this department is bad news when it comes to a bike’s ride.

Considering the problems I was experiencing, I turned both to full soft and took a turn of preload out of the rear spring to make it easier to start compressing as it hits a bump. All of this moved the needle in the right direction, but for it to still be too harsh at full soft with a 175-lb. adult rider aboard shows that the valving and spring rates are just too high. 

The ride discomfort is worsened by the seat’s hardness. The unforgiving cushion is enough of a problem while you’re sitting on the bike during the ride. But its squared-off edges dig into the rider’s thighs when you put your feet down at traffic lights, exacerbating the discomfort.

The rubber on the road

The LiveWire-branded 19-inch Dunlop DT-1 tires seem good, but there was no way to really lean the bike over to test the limits of their grip because of the S2’s stiff suspension. It would have dumped me on the deck if I’d encountered any pavement ripples while leaned over. Smaller-diameter wheels are typical for sport bikes like this, but it seems like styling considerations overruled the agility benefits of 17-inch wheels and tires in this case.

I have a regular test loop that includes a short bridge with a rough surface followed immediately by a tight 90-degree right turn. This is an excellent test of vehicles’ suspension and other test bikes have handled it well, though with varying degrees of control. The Indian FTR 1200 S , for example, handled this challenge with aplomb.

Hard to handle

I’ve always marveled at the difference between the more sophisticated suspension of the Porsche 911 and the simpler suspension of the 718 Boxster and Cayman models in soaking up the bumps so the car is ready and able to turn into this corner. The S2 falls in the discombobulated 718 territory, not in the poised 911 territory. So much so that the low-power turtle icon appeared on the instrument display, dialing back the bike’s power until it felt safe again. The same icon appears when the bike’s battery is nearly dead, showing that the S2 is operating at reduced power.

The sudden power loss was a surprise to me, so when I pitched the S2 into the turn following the bridge and opened the throttle at the apex to stand the bike up on the drive to the corner exit, I got the shock of a limp response and a bike that continued to lean and turn while the road straightened. That wasn’t fun.

It’s the little things

The S2’s push-to-cancel turn signal is…unpredictable. It’s maddeningly uncooperative and leaves the rider double- and triple-checking that the turn signal isn’t flashing after every turn and lane change. This would be enough for me to return the bike if I’d bought it without noticing this deficiency because it spoils the relaxation that is the point of riding.

A minor annoyance while riding the S2 is the bike’s high-pitched gear whine during steady-state 25 mph riding, which is what I do for a mile when entering or leaving my neighborhood for every single trip. As with the BMW CE 04 electric scooter tested last year, the piercing whine goes away at other speeds and isn’t apparent at low speeds when accelerating or decelerating. But a few minutes of steady-state whine seems like much longer when enduring this noise. Fortunately just slowing to an indicated 23 mph eliminates the racket.

Brembo supplies the S2’s powerful Brembo M4.32 monobloc four-piston front caliper and PF34 floating single-piston rear caliper and their performance is impeccable. Well, at least, the single-disc front brake performs with great power and with precision that is easy to meter. The electric motor’s regeneration on the rear wheel makes the rear brake even less necessary than usual, so I barely touched the pedal for the rear brake.

When slogging through stop-and-go traffic from one red light to the next, I appreciated the fact that the Del Mar does not roast its rider in engine heat. The dramatically styled (some might argue excessively so) cooling fins on the sides of the Del Mar’s electric drive system never seem to get particularly warm, so the bike is a great partner for summer riding.

It does have a heat exchanger behind the front wheel for cooling the motor and power electronics. This radiator seems unobtrusive enough, but its cap is a styling miscue, sticking out prominently among all the careful industrial design. Considering the relatively low heat rejection requirements of a bike like this, it seems like a missed opportunity to bury that radiator somewhere out of sight where the cap isn’t an eyesore.

The S2’s riding range is disappointing. LiveWire’s rating for highway riding is only 70 miles of steady 55-mph riding. Which means that on a 70-mph Interstate, with the cut-and-thrust of traffic, range falls from “short” to “nearly useless. On a ride sticking to two-lane highways with speed limits between 35 mph and 55 mph, I limped home with 3 miles of range remaining after only 71.4 miles of riding despite what I considered best-case scenario conditions. This was with the bike in Range mode for most of that distance.

The 113-mile city distance rating seems plausible, but when the display forecasts that range on departure for a gentle test ride, it is an unwelcome surprise to encounter range anxiety on the way home.

Recharging on my Level 2 9.6-kilowatt ChargePoint home charger was quick, with the bike estimating 136 minutes to go from 1 percent state of charge to 100 percent. I saw it charging at 4.4 kW, but it might have ramped up that rate as the charge progressed.

The LiveWire, like any two-wheeler, is a bundle of fun. And the technology seems promising, especially at the $15,499 price tag. But prospective riders need to understand that this is not even a casual two-lane cruiser. Between the dismal highway riding range and the excruciating seat, a cruise is not a realistic job for the Del Mar. 

It really should be an around-town machine. It would be good for commuting if not for the punishing ride. In total, there remains a lot of promise here, but even more work remains to be done. My next bike might well be an electric, but it won’t be this version of the LiveWire Del Mar.

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2024 BMW G 310 R review: A starter bike you won’t outgrow 2024 BMW G 310 R review: A starter bike you won’t outgrow

Emanuel, who holds one of the lowest year-end targets for the S&P 500 on Wall Street at 4,750, noted that a stock with a top-five weighting in the S&P 500 has never surged 20% in the three days after earnings with the index not also ending that time period higher. This proved to be a stark difference from Nvidia's perfect correlation with the S&P 500 over the past year, per Emanuel, and could mean the market is poised for a pullback.

"There is no precedent for a stock of NVDA’s size having its post-earnings share surge “ignored” by the broader S&P 500," Emanuel wrote. "This divergence is a catalyst for greater movement at the S&P 500 level in front of other event catalysts."

Emanuel lists upcoming inflation prints such as Friday's Personal Consumption Expenditures index and the June Federal Reserve meeting as examples.

Stocks slid despite a 10% surge in Nvidia the day after its earnings release as a hotter-than-expected reading on economic output had investors scaling back their expectations for interest rate cuts this year. That trend has continued this week as a rise in the 10-year Treasury yield ( ^TNX ) to its highest level since the start of May helped drive a decline in the S&P 500 over the same period.

Fed officials find consumers are pushing back against higher prices

Inflation has remained stickier than expected to start 2024 . And with prices well above their pre-pandemic levels , consumers are pushing back, according to responses in the latest Federal Reserve Beige Book.

"Prices increased at a modest pace over the reporting period," the Beige Book said. "Contacts in most Districts noted consumers pushed back against additional price increases, which led to smaller profit margins as input prices rose on average. Retail contacts reported offering discounts to entice customers."

The Boston Fed reported that businesses are concerned about further consumer pushback should prices increase further. In fact, one "large clothing retailer" went as far as to say it is planning price reductions this fall in an effort to boost sales.

In Philadelphia, consumers "continued to spend less on each trip" as they adjust to higher prices. Meanwhile, one contact in Cleveland noted that passing along price increases to consumers has become "more difficult" as shoppers are closely managing their costs.

Netlix stock rises on bullish optimism

Netflix ( NFLX ) stock climbed 2% on Wednesday following a string of bullish calls on Wall Street as analysts doubled down on the streaming giant's future growth trajectory.

Morgan Stanley analyst Benjamin Swinburne said he sees 30% upside based on current trading levels, writing in a new client note on Wednesday that Netflix is "both a driver and beneficiary of industry disruption."

Swinburne, who maintained his Outperform rating on shares, said his $850 bull case assumes over 30 million subscriber net additions this year with revenue expected to continue a double-digit growth path next year amid initiatives like Netflix's advertising tier and its password-sharing crackdown.

"Mid-teens revenue growth in 2025 likely requires a significant scaling of its advertising business, but we believe it is putting the pieces in place to deliver on this opportunity," the analyst said.

Netflix told advertisers earlier this month that its ad tier has reached 40 million global monthly active users — a significant jump from the 15 million users the company revealed back in November and a 35-million-user increase compared to the year-ago period.

On top of advertising momentum, the company has recently leaned on live events, like the successful Tom Brady roast , along with live sports.

Netflix won the streaming rights to two NFL games set to air Christmas Day as part of a three-season deal. Prior to the NFL agreement, the company announced a 10-year deal with TKO Group Holding's WWE ( TKO ) that will bring WWE’s flagship program Raw, a live wrestling production, to the streaming service beginning in 2025.

Netflix will also host a live wrestling event between Jake Paul and Mike Tyson in July.

Shares of Netflix have climbed about 35% since the start of the year. Swinburne credited the share appreciation to "its own strong operating execution than industry trends."

Read more here.

ConocoPhillips's $22.5 billion deal for Marathon Oil highlights energy M&A wave

Consolidation continues in the US energy market with ConocoPhillips's ( COP ) plans to acquire independent oil and gas producer Marathon Oil ( MRO ) in an all-stock deal for $22.5 billion.

Marathon Oil shares jumped roughly 8% in Wednesday's trading while ConocoPhillips dropped more than 5%.

Yahoo Finance's Ines Ferré reports:

The merger follows a wave of consolidation over the past year as oil giants flush with cash look for ways to put it to use. ExxonMobil ( XOM ) recently closed on its $59.5 billion acquisition of Pioneer Natural Resources, expanding its access in the lucrative Permian Basin region. And on Tuesday, Hess ( HES ) shareholders voted in favor of a $53 billion buyout by Chevron ( CVX ). The deal includes Hess's valuable stake in Guyana.

Other deals announced over the past year include Occidental Petroleum's ( OXY ) $12 billion buyout of privately held oil and gas producer CrownRock and Diamondback Energy's ( FANG ) $26 billion acquisition of Endeavor Energy.

"They're all the same underpinnings. It's buying acreage, it's buying inventory," Matt Willer , managing director of capital markets and partner at Phoenix Capital, told Yahoo Finance.

Willer says the massive consolidation in the energy space comes after more than a decade of underinvestment by companies amid political and regulatory uncertainty over the oil and gas landscape.

"Now recognizing that oil and gas isn't going anywhere likely during our lifetime, they have to make up for lost time," Willer said.

Citi analysts noted differences between the ConocoPhillips-Marathon deal and other major mergers among oil and gas companies.

“While others have targeted inventory and growth, this transaction looks largely based around optimization of cost and approach,” wrote Alastair Syme and his team on Wednesday.

Energy, Utilities lag in Wednesday's trade

Two of the top-performing sectors in 2024 are lagging the index on Wednesday.

Energy ( XLE ) is down nearly 2%, while Utilities ( XLU ) is off nearly 1.5%. All 11 sectors in the S&P 500 ( ^GSPC ) are in the red for the day.

Below is a look at the sector action midway through the trading session.

Trending tickers on Wednesday

Chewy stock ( CHWY ) led the Yahoo Finance trending tickers page on Wednesday as shares soared more than 26%. The company's adjusted earnings per share of $0.31 came in well above Wall Street's estimate for $0.20. The online seller of pet supplies also announced a $500 million share repurchase program. Once a pandemic darling, Chewy shares are still off more than 80% from their 2021 peak as the business readjusts from its lockdown boom.

American Airlines ( AAL ) stock fell as much as 15% on Wednesday as the airline carrier cut its earnings guidance for the current quarter. The airline now sees earnings per share in a range of $1 to $1.15 in the current quarter, down from prior guidance of $1.15 to $1.45. It also now sees total revenue per available seat declining by 5% to 6% compared to the year prior. American Airlines had previously expected the metric to decline in a range of 1% to 3%.

Marathon Oil ( MRO ) stock rose more than 7% as Conoco Phillips ( COP ) agreed to acquire Marathon in an all-stock deal with an enterprise value of $22.5 billion. Conoco Phillips fell more than 4% on the news.

Rising Treasury yields have hit a level expected to hurt 'lower quality, riskier, and expensive stocks'

Back at the end of April, as rising Treasury yields weighed on the S&P 500 to the tune of a 5% pullback in the major index, we highlighted how some Wall Street strategists saw rising yields as a consistent headwind for stocks.

"Higher rates are now a systemic problem for equities," Piper Sandler chief investment strategist Michael Kantrowitz wrote in a weekly note to clients on April 26.

He added, "At this point it's really hard to see equities going up without rates going down."

That thesis played out over the course of May. Soft economic data pushed yields lower, and stocks rallied to new record highs.

But recently, a spike in the 10-year Treasury yield to 4.6%, its highest level since May 2, has corresponded with a decline in the S&P 500 as investors grow increasingly wary about the prospect of Federal Reserve interest rate cuts this year.

This brings us back to Kantrowitz's work for tidbits on what the rise in yields could mean for stocks.

On Tuesday, the 10-year Treasury yield passed 4.5%, a critical level in Kantrowitz's view that could weigh on "lower quality, riskier and expensive" stocks. He added that if the 10-year surges above 5%, that's "probably a problem for most stocks."

Below is a look at the various levels Kantrowitz is watching and what they could mean for equities.

Ex-Goldman exec named as next Cleveland Fed president

The Federal Reserve Bank of Cleveland named former Goldman Sachs executive Beth Hammack as its next president on Wednesday.

Yahoo Finance's Jennifer Schonberger reports:

The 52-year-old Hammack will replace current president Loretta Mester, who is set to retire on June 30 in accordance with the Fed's mandatory age and length-of-service policies. She is 65 years old.

The change comes at a critical time for the Fed as it weighs whether to cut rates from a 23-year high. Many Fed officials have said they expect rates to stay elevated for longer than expected following some hot inflation reports in the first quarter of the year.

Hammack will take office on Aug. 21 and will become a voting member of the Federal Open Market Committee, the group at the Fed that ultimately decides the direction of monetary policy.

To fill in the gap until her start date, Cleveland Fed first vice president Mark Meder will serve as interim president.

Hammack worked for Goldman for more than 30 years, most recently as co-head of global financing. She previously held jobs as the firm's global treasurer, global head of short-term macro trading, and global head of repo trading.

She left the Wall Street giant earlier this year.

Why first time homebuyers are becoming a 'more important driver' of housing demand

Last week's existing home sales data for April contained a bit of a surprise buried in the release : First-time buyers made up 33% of sales during the month, the largest share since January 2021 and higher than the 29% in the year-earlier period.

"First-time buyers are likely succeeding now because there is slightly less competition when mortgage rates are higher," Jessica Lautz, deputy chief economist and vice president of research at the National Association of Realtors told Yahoo Finance in an email. "While this does restrict housing affordability and who can purchase, buyers who are able to purchase at higher incomes are finding the chance to do so."

Indeed, last week, executives at Toll Brothers, which bills itself as a luxury builder, said on its quarterly earnings call that 30% of its customers were first-time buyers, reflecting "the financial strength and affluence of our entire customer base."

"Most of these buyers are millennials, many of whom have waited later in life to form families and have accumulated greater wealth when they buy their first home," Douglas Yearley, CEO of Toll Brothers, told investors and analysts on their second quarter earnings call. "Some benefit from the greatest transfer in US history from boomer parents who want to see their kids enjoy the fruits of their success and help them financially."

At first glance, the uptick may seem counterintuitive, as first-time buyers shopping at a lower price point should be more rate- and price-sensitive — and rates are hovering near 7% while home prices are hitting all-time highs .

But it appears that within this group of prospective homeowners, those who can afford homes right now are taking the leap and buying them.

John Lovallo, an analyst at UBS covering homebuilders and building products, told Yahoo Finance some first-time buyers today are better financed than previous generations and largely motivated by necessity rather than rate-shocks.

"We believe that first-time home buyers are becoming a more important driver of demand for the homebuilders in our coverage as millennials and Gen Z reach prime homebuying age," Lovallo said. "Therefore, to the extent they can buy, they will, which arguably makes this cohort less rate sensitive."

American Airlines slashes earnings outlook, shares slide

American Airlines stock ( AAL ) fell more than 15% on Wednesday morning as the airline carrier cut its earnings guidance for the current quarter.

The airliner now sees earnings per share in a range of $1 to $1.15 in the current quarter, down from prior guidance of $1.15 to $1.45. It also now sees total revenue per available seat declining by 5% to 6% compared to the year prior. American Airlines had previously expected the metric to decline in a range of 1% to 3%.

The company also announced that chief commercial officer Vasu Raja will leave the company in June.

Bank of America analyst Andrew Didora reasoned that "the cut seems to be a combination of higher domestic competition as well as a loss of corporate share."

And to Didora's point, American Airlines' weak forecast comes as the outlook for demand in the airline industry appears to be robust. As Axios reported this morning , five of the busiest travel days in TSA's data tracking back to 2001 have come in the last two weeks. This includes a record 2.95 million travelers on the Friday leading into Memorial Day Weekend.

Stocks slide as yields pop

Stocks slid at the open after a spike in Treasury yields unsettled investors already weighing whether recent data will shift the needle on interest rates.

The benchmark S&P 500 ( ^GSPC ) fell 0.7%, while the Dow Jones Industrial Average ( ^DJI) drifted about 0.9% lower, shedding nearly 350 points. The Nasdaq Composite ( ^IXIC ) also slid more than 0.7%.

On Tuesday, the yield on 5-year Treasurys rose to near four-week highs, while the 10-year yield ( TNX ) topped the key 4.5% level. On Wednesday, the benchmark yield inched up further to trade around 4.57%.

The economic outlook brightens...

And who doesn't want some sunny, positive macro data on hump day? Not this guy, always on the hunt for upbeat things.

I come armed with a dose of just that.

More than 8 in 10 chief economists expect the global economy to either strengthen or remain stable this year, according to a new survey today from the World Economic Forum (WEF). That's nearly double the proportion in January's report.

The share of those predicting a downturn in global economic conditions declined to 17% from 56% in January.

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