best time to visit georgia armenia azerbaijan

The Perfect Georgia-Armenia-Azerbaijan Itinerary

Last Updated on November 3, 2023

by Maggie Turansky

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Many people will know that Georgia is quickly becoming more and more popular amongst western tourists looking to get off the beaten path in Europe. The problem is, however, due to its geographic location in the far east of Europe, it is a long way to go just for a short Georgia itinerary .

That is why many people looking to visit Georgia want to take the time to visit the neighbouring countries as well. However, it can be difficult to map out the perfect Georgia-Armenia-Azerbaijan itinerary for you.

We spent many months exploring Georgia, Armenia, and Azerbaijan and have gathered all of the knowledge that can help you plan the perfect Caucasus itinerary!

Table of Contents

Best Time to Visit Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan

Before you get to planning the route for your itinerary, you’re going to want to know when is the best time to visit the Caucasus countries.

Despite the fact that they seemingly occupy a small geographical area, Georgia, Armenia, and Azerbaijan encompass a number of different climate zones and the weather can vary more than it does in most countries in continental Europe.

For instance, there may still be metres of snow on the highest peaks in the Caucasus in August and a city only a couple of hours away would have temperatures well over 35°C (95°F).

That being said, there are certainly times that are better to visit this region than others. On the whole, you can assume that Georgia, Armenia, and Azerbaijan all have continental climates with cold winters and hot summers.

Outside of the mountain areas, winters do tend to be short and mild, mostly with temperatures hovering somewhere around freezing. If you aren’t interested in trekking and don’t mind the cold, then planning your itinerary in the winter can be a decent idea.

There are also the fewest tourist crowds between the months of December and February and ample affordable skiing opportunities throughout all three countries.

Conversely, summer in the Caucasus countries can be incredibly hot — especially in the cities and lowland areas. This is also the most popular time for visitors in all three countries, however, most places in Georgia, Armenia, and Azerbaijan are far from overrun.

Summer is the best time to visit if you plan to spend a lot of time in the mountains and do a bit of trekking. It is also a good time to visit if you want to make the most of the coastal areas along the Black and Caspian Seas.

Keep in mind that in some areas of all three countries, temperatures can soar to well over 35°C (95°F) between the months of June and August, including in Tbilisi, Yerevan, and Baku.

Like most everywhere in Europe, arguably the best time to head to the Caucasus is in the shoulder seasons between March-May and September-November. Here you will find the mildest temperatures and the fewer crowds. The only downside is that, especially in spring, there may be mountain areas that are closed to visitors due to snow and ice.

No matter when you decide to plan your Caucasus itinerary, you are sure to have an amazing time exploring Georgia, Armenia, and Azerbaijan.

How Many Days in the Caucasus?

Now that you know the best time of year to visit the Caucasus countries, you need to figure out how long you want to devote to exploring this region. While we would honestly say that six weeks to two months is the absolute ideal amount of time to spend in Armenia, Georgia, and Azerbaijan, we do realise that most typical travellers don’t have months on end to aimlessly wander through the Caucasus.

So that being said, how many days should you spend here? Well, it depends on what you want to do, however, we would recommend planning on spending at least two weeks if you want to visit two countries (such as Georgian and Armenia or Georgia and Azerbaijan) and planning to spend at least three weeks if you want to visit all three countries.

If you have your heart set on visiting all three and you have fewer than 2 or 3 weeks to play around with, we suggest only concentrating on the capital cities of Tbilisi, Baku, and Yerevan.

It is likely that you will want to see more than just the capitals, however, and because of that we really urge you to try to spend as much time as you can in this region of the world. If you want to see the most of what all of these countries have to offer, plan to spend 2 or 3 weeks if you plan to only visit two countries and 3 or 4 weeks if you plan to visit all three.

Getting Around the Caucasus

Now that you know when and how long to visit the Caucasus, you need to know how you plan to get from point A to point B while there. Luckily, it is actually surprisingly easy and straightforward to get around these countries, especially if you’re moving between major cities and it can be very affordable, as well

If you plan on getting around Azerbaijan, Georgia, and Armenia using public transport, you will find that it is pretty easy and there are a couple of options available for you. One thing to note is that typical coach-style buses in the Caucasus aren’t common and instead, most routes rely on minibuses, also called marshrutkas.

Marshrutka routes between major cities operate frequently and they are easy to catch. Usually, they do not operate on a set schedule and only tend to leave when they are full. Depending on the popularity of the route, the more frequently a bus will leave. It is also common to pay your fare directly to the driver, however, this is not always the case and someone will be there to tell you where to pay.

The other common form of “public” transit in the Caucasus is a shared taxi. This mode is more expensive and less reliable than a marshrutka, but it can still be a decent budget option if you don’t want to be crammed into an uncomfortable minibus for a few hours.

You will be able to find a shared taxi to your destination at the same place where the bus leaves. Drivers will usually quote you the price of the car, not the per-person price. Therefore, if you can share a cab with three other people, the price for you will go down significantly. In Georgia, you can book drivers and cars directly through a service called GoTrip .

There are some train connections in the Caucasus, most notably night trains between the capital cities and the Tbilisi to Batumi route, however, the train network is not nearly as developed as in other European nations. On the whole, you can expect train travel to be a lot slower than the bus with far fewer connections, but it definitely is more comfortable than a cramped marshrutka.

Many travellers in the Caucasus also prefer to be in more control of their itinerary and like having the flexibility that their own vehicle allows. Renting a car can be a good option if you want to visit some more off-the-beaten-path destinations or are short on time and want to make the most out of your time in Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan.

It is worth noting that the road quality in all three countries declines massively outside of the major cities. So you need to be ready to avoid a lot of potholes and to drive over a number of rough, unpaved roads. Drivers in the Caucasus can also be pretty aggressive, so it is necessary to stay very alert and to drive defensively.

If you want to rent a car in the Caucasus, we recommend using RentalCars.com to find great prices from major car hire companies. Alternatively, you can also rent private cars directly from locals through Local Rent.

All in all, it is very easy to get around all three countries with a few different options depending on your budget and preferences.

Entering Armenia and Azerbaijan

Before you start actually planning your itinerary, you need to be aware of the nuances of border crossings, especially if you are planning on visiting both Armenia and Azerbaijan.

It is no secret that Azerbaijan and Armenia and not friends, despite their shared border. The borders between Armenia and Azerbaijan are completely closed and it is impossible to travel between the two. So if you have a brilliant plan to travel from Baku to Yerevan to Tbilisi, it’s time to toss that out the window.

Because of the way border crossings can go, the best way to plan a route through the Caucasus region (if you want to visit all three countries) is to begin your route in Azerbaijan, travel through to Georgia and end in Armenia.

When it comes to entering Armenia, those with EU passports, US citizens, Australians, and New Zealanders do not require a visa and only need a passport to enter the country visa-free. Unfortunately, Canadian citizens do still need a visa before entering Armenia, however, it is possible to obtain a visa on arrival or through an easy e-visa process.

If you plan to visit Azerbaijan, it is almost certain that you will need a visa in advance. Citizens of numerous countries can apply for an e-visa at least three days prior to travelling. The visa application process is very easy and all you need to do is print out the visa and show it to the border guard upon entering Azerbaijan.

3-Week Georgia-Armenia-Azerbaijan Itinerary

If you want to visit all three Caucasus countries, then you’re going to need at least 3 weeks to do this. Because of the way border crossings work, the easiest way to do this is to begin in Baku and plan to end in Armenia. You can, however, do this route in reverse if it is easier for you to begin in Yerevan.

Days 1-3: Baku

To begin your trip, plan to spend your first three days in Azerbaijan’s capital city. Baku is an incredibly interesting city that combines ultra-modern architecture with grand European boulevards and a Persian-style old town that happens to be a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Get your bearings by taking a walking tour of the city to get some context for your explorations.

As the most populous city in the Caucasus, Baku is large and you can easily spend a number of days exploring the city. We recommend you plan for two days seeing the sites and attractions of Baku before spending another day on a trip to the nearby mud volcanoes and Gobustan cave paintings.

Where to Stay in Baku

Baku is becoming a popular destination for city breaks among many countries and there is a seemingly infinite amount of accommodation to choose from ranging from the ultra-luxe to a budget backpacker hostel. Here’s where we think you should stay in Baku:

El Royal Hotel  – Situated in Baku’s downtown and within walking distance of the top attractions, this is an excellent mid-range option. They have a number of rooms to choose from, breakfast available and offer airport transfers.

Seven Boutique Hotel – A well-located boutique hotel with a range of clean and comfortable rooms available and a helpful staff to make your stay a great one.

Sahil Hostel – A backpacker hostel located close to Sahil Metro and within easy walking distance of all the main sites. They have a range of private and dorm rooms available.

Not quite what you’re looking for? Click here to browse more Baku hotels!

Days 4-5: Sheki

After exploring bustling Baku, it’s time to see how much life in Azerbaijan outside of the oil-rich capital. This is why we recommend spending two nights in quiet Sheki.

Sheki is one of the most tourist-friendly towns in Azerbaijan, however, you could easily exhaust all of the things to do in Sheki in one full day.

However, it is worth it to take the time to explore the beautiful palaces and admire the local handicrafts while learning about the town’s Silk Road history. Sheki is also located near some fantastic hiking areas.

Where to Stay in Sheki

Because of its diminutive size, there aren’t a tonne of places to stay in Sheki, however, there are still a few options to choose from depending on your personal budget and travel style. Here are our suggestions:

Ilgar’s Guesthouse – A local homestay, rooms are basic but comfortable, there is decent WiFi and an option to get breakfast in the morning.

MinAli Boutique Hotel – A recently-opened boutique hotel, they have large modern rooms and a great breakfast included in the nightly rate.

Not quite what you’re looking for? Click here to browse other rooms in Sheki!

Days 6-8: Sighnaghi

After exploring Sheki for a couple of days, it’s time to head to Georgia. The most logical next stop would be in the Kakheti region and that’s why we recommend spending days 6 to 8 in Sighnaghi.

It can be somewhat tricky to figure out how to get from Sheki to Sighnaghi , but there are a few options available to you and isn’t complicated if you plan in advance.

This walled hill town is situated in the heart of Georgia’s top wine region and overlooks the fertile Alazani Valley. Spend one day here exploring the town of Sighnaghi itself and another on a tour of the region, visiting some historical sites and a few wineries.

Where to Stay in Sighnaghi

Sighnaghi is one of the most popular getaways for both visitors and Georgian locals alike, therefore, there is a lot of accommodation choice in the small town. Here are our suggestions for the best places to stay in Sighnaghi:

Maya Guesthouse  – A family-run guesthouse with a beautiful view, they have both breakfast and dinner options available as well as a handful of clean and comfortable rooms. 

Guesthouse Wine  – Located in the town centre, this convivial guesthouse has a handful of clean rooms, a breakfast option available and friendly owners. They also make and sell their own traditional wine.

Boutique Hotel BelleVue  – This boutique hotel has several rooms (some with balconies) and a delightful swimming pool. It’s located in the town centre.

Not quite what you’re looking for?  Click here to browse more Sighnaghi hotels!

Days 9-10: Kazbegi

After spending two days in Sighnaghi, it’s time to venture up into the beautiful Caucasus mountains to the town of Stepantsminda, most commonly referred to as Kazbegi .

Located in the shadows of the imposing Mount Kazbek (Georgia’s third-tallest peak and the 7th highest in the Caucasus range), you will need to transfer buses in Tbilisi in order to reach here from Sighnaghi, unless you arrange a taxi or have your own vehicle.

The most popular activity in Kazbegi is to undertake the beautiful hike to the Gergeti Trinity Church, which commands incredible views of Mount Kazbek and the surrounding mountains. There are also ample other hiking opportunities in this area.

Many people treat Kazbegi simply as a day trip from Tbilisi, however, we recommend planning to spend two nights (one full day) in order to fully appreciate the scenery and to give yourself enough time to do the hike.

Where to Stay in Kazbegi:

Despite its very small size, there are numerous guesthouses and even some luxury accommodations in Kazbegi. If you’re wondering where to stay in this village, check out our recommendations:

Guest House Kavtarashvili 38 – A well-located, family-run guesthouse with a handful of clean rooms available. There is also an option to include a hearty breakfast.

Red Stone Guest House – Another small guesthouse in Gergeti Village, close to the trailhead to the hike to the church. They have many rooms available and breakfast is included in the room rate.

Rooms Hotel Kazbegi – A luxury hotel with great views of the mountains, numerous amenities, very comfortable rooms, and a great on-site restaurant.

Not quite what you’re looking for? Click here to browse other options in Kazbegi!

Days 11-14: Tbilisi

Spend the next three days in Tbilisi , seeing the main sites and maybe taking the time to go on a day trip or visit some more off-beat destinations and attractions within Georgia’s capital. Three days is the optimal time to spend in the capital of Georgia to really get a feel for the vibrant city and to introduce yourself to Georgian culture.

On the first day, take the time to explore the city centre and old town. Stroll down Rustaveli Avenue, wander around the old town and take in the Botanic Gardens.

On your second day, head across the river and explore the Dry Bridge market and the Marjanishvili neighbourhood. You can then head out on a day trip to Mtskheta on the third day.

Where to Stay in Tbilisi

Tbilisi is one of the most popular destinations to visit in Georgia and, therefore, there is a range of accommodation to choose from. Whether you’re looking for a backpacker hostel or a boutique hotel, Tbilisi has it all. Here are our top recommendations:

Pushkin 10 Hostel – A budget backpacker hostel with great common areas and high ratings. There are both dorm and private rooms available.

Guest House Rampa  – A budget guesthouse in the Old Town, they have friendly, helpful owners and a handful of clean private rooms available along with self-catering facilities. 

Hotel Flower   – A centrally-located boutique hotel within easy walking distance of most of Tbilisi’s main attractions. There are numerous rooms available, 24-hour reception, and breakfast is included in your nightly rate.

Not quite what you’re looking for? Click here to browse more Tbilisi hotels!

Days 15-19: Yerevan

After exploring Georgia, it’s time to head south to the capital of Armenia : Yerevan. There are plenty of connections between Tbilisi and Yerevan including marshrutkas, trains and a night train service.

Yerevan is a massive city that feels a world away from Tbilisi, however, it retains its own unique charm and it is well worth spending a lot of time in the city. The well-planned streets of the city centre are easy to navigate and the cafe culture in this cosmopolitan city is enough to rival other European capitals like Paris , Budapest , or Vienna .

Yerevan is an excellent base in Armenia as it also gives you the opportunity to explore many other areas of the country via day trip. We recommend spending a least two full days exploring Yerevan in its totality and then using the rest of your time seeing some other areas of the country via day tour or independent day trip.

Where to Stay in Yerevan:

Being the cosmopolitan capital that it is, there is a ton of option when it comes places to stay in Yerevan. If you’re struggling to find the best place for you, check out our suggestions:

Envoy Hostel – A backpacker hostel, they offer both dorm and private rooms and also organise day tours around the country, with a special discount for their guests. They have helpful staff, clean facilities, and good common areas.

Skyline Hotel Yerevan – A mid-range hotel located within 400 metres of Republic Square, there are numerous clean rooms, a free airport shuttle and a great breakfast in the mornings.

Not quite what you’re looking for? Click here to browse other options in Yerevan!

Days 20-21: Dilijan

After exploring cosmopolitan Yerevan, end your itinerary in the beautiful town of Dilijan. Colloquially referred to as Armenia’s Switzerland, this is the place to go for a mountain retreat in the country and it is popular among both Armenian locals and tourists alike.

While the town itself doesn’t have a lot of sights to see and things to do, it is surrounded by hiking trails and there is a helpful tourist information centre that can tell you the best places to go for a short stroll in the woods or a full day trek.

Depending on where you want to end your time in the Caucasus, you can easily head back to Yerevan to catch a flight out or go from Dilijan to Tbilisi and leave from Georgia.

Where to Stay in Dilijan

Dilijan is an incredibly popular weekend destination in Armenia and, therefore, there are lots of places to stay in the town. If you want to know where to stay in Dilijan, have a look at our top recommendations:

Green Dilijan B&B – This family-run guesthouse with a few rooms available and nice common areas. It is very clean and there is an option to add breakfast for an additional charge.

Kirovi Tun — A small hotel with a range of cosy and clean rooms available and a swimming pool to keep the whole family entertained. Breakfast is included in the nightly rate.

Not quite what you’re looking for? Click here to browse other places in Dilijan!

4 Week Caucasus Itinerary

Four weeks is an amount of time to spend visiting all three of Armenia, Georgian and Azerbaijan as it allows you to see the most of the three countries without feeling too rushed and overwhelmed. Follow this route:

• Days 1-3: Baku, Azerbaijan – Start your trip with three days in the vibrant capital of Azerbaijan
• Days 4-5: Sheki, Azerbaijan – view the UNESCO World Heritage Site and mountain scenery in this lovely town
• Days 6-8: Sighnaghi, Georgia – sip wine and visit historic monasteries in this walled hill town
• Days 9-10: Kazbegi, Georgia – hike to the Gergeti Trinity Church and enjoy mountain views in Stepantsminda
• Days 11-14: Tbilisi, Georgia – take the time to explore the Georgian capital
• Days 15-17: Yerevan, Armenia – take in the sites of the Armenian capital and its surrounding area
• Days 18-19: Dilijan, Armenia – enjoy the pristine nature of Armenia in this lovely mountain town
• Days 20-22: Borjomi, Georgia – soak in healing sulfuric waters or take a day trip to the ancient cave city of Vardzia in this Georgian city
• Days 23-25: Kutaisi, Georgia – get to know Georgia’s third-largest city and its surrounding area
• Days 26-28: Mestia or Batumi, Georgia – hike in one of Georgia’s most remote mountain villages or bask in the sunshine on the Black Sea coast

If you have more than 4 weeks to devote to a trip, then you will have a lot more flexibility for your route. You could, perhaps, choose to go the popular Mestia to Ushguli trek or you could spend longer in Tbilisi, Yerevan or Baku.

You could also venture to a few more off-beat destinations or spend longer in each place in order to both minimise your impact and really get to know the culture.

Planning the perfect itinerary across Georgia, Azerbaijan and Armenia can seem overwhelming at first, but once you work out how long you have and which places are worth visiting, the task becomes far less daunting.

Are you visiting any of these countries? Have any questions? Let us know in the comments!

Related Posts:

The Ultimate 2 to 3 Days in Tbilisi Itinerary

How to Travel to Mestia from Tbilisi, Kutaisi, Zugdidi & Batumi

What to do in Kutaisi, Georgia: A 2 or 3 Day Itinerary

About Maggie Turansky

Maggie is a co-founder and writer for The World Was Here First. Originally from the US, she has lived in five different countries and has travelled to dozens more, both solo and with her partner, Michael. She particularly loves exploring Spain and spending time in the Caucasus and the Baltics. Read more about Maggie

Thank you, very helpful:) <3

Dear Maggie

I do appreciate you generosity in sharing these information, it answers all of question in my head. It is very useful. I am think of visiting Georgia-Armenia-Azerbijan approximately 2 weeks in year 2020, but I have no idea at all about these 3 countries. Luckily that I put the right “key word” when I search, then it’s such a miracle that your web has pop up. Thank you so much & wish you a wonderful day wherever you are!

Thanks for your comment, Oraphan! I’m glad that this itinerary was able to help you and I hope you have a great trip to the Caucasus next year 🙂

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Two Weeks in the Caucasus: Travel Itinerary for Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan

Adventurous Kate contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase through these links, I will earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Thanks!

If you were going to spend two weeks in the Caucasus, what’s the best itinerary? I recently visited the Caucasus for the first time: first Azerbaijan, then Georgia, then Armenia.

First off — the Caucasus is such an interesting place that you could spend months there without seeing all the points of interest. But most people don’t have months to spend here. If all you have is two weeks, you can definitely make a sizable dent in the region’s highlights.

The Caucasus is home to incredible natural beauty, interesting cultural hotspots, and fantastic cuisine. Georgia is home to gorgeous mountains, outstanding wine, and a unique culture in the region of Svaneti. In Armenia you’ll find stunning monasteries built beautifully in canyons, almost as if they grew out of mountains. Azerbaijan has geothermic activity pushing flames from the earth. And the three capitals — Tbilisi, Yerevan, and Baku — are stunning and enthralling and incredibly different from each other.

Best of all? All three countries in the Caucasus are very affordable to travel.

I traveled in the Caucasus as a hosted guest of JayWay Travel . But this itinerary would work whether you’re on a trip with them or planning an independent journey of you own! I look forward to going back to the Caucasus for some solo journeys. Here’s how to spend two weeks in the Caucasus.

Table of Contents

Looking for an overview?

How to spend three days in baku, azerbaijan, why you should travel to georgia as soon as possible, what’s it like to travel in armenia today, all about the caucasus.

Georgia, Armenia, and Azerbaijan are the countries that make up the Caucasus region.

Some people consider the Caucasus part of Europe; others claim it’s part of Asia. Culturally, Georgia and Armenia feel much more like Europe, while Azerbaijan feels more like the Middle East.

The Greater Caucasus mountains are in the far north of Georgia and just beyond the border into Russia. The Lesser Caucasus mountains range from southern Georgia into Armenia and the Nagorno-Karabakh region of Azerbaijan.

You can visit the Caucasus year-round, but if you want to hike in the Caucasus mountains (especially Svaneti ), aim for June through August.

Traveling the Caucasus is often as safe as staying in your hometown. Crime is low. The one issue is that Georgians often drive recklessly. While some of the countries have conflicts with each other, there is no violence and travelers will not be affected.

Generally speaking, all three countries are quite inexpensive. Backpackers staying in hostels can live on $40 per day. You can have a meal with wine for under $20. Four-star hotels in the capital cities will usually run you $100-150. Prices are on par with much of Eastern Europe.

English is spoken in touristy areas in Georgia, Armenia, and Azerbaijan. The local languages are Georgian, Armenian, and Azeri. Many older locals speak Russian, as all three countries were once part of the Soviet Union. The Georgian and Armenian languages each have their own alphabet.

How much time do you need in the Caucasus?

If you want to visit all three countries — Georgia, Armenia, and Azerbaijan — I recommend having a minimum of two weeks to travel. If you have less than two weeks, I would recommend axing Azerbaijan and just visiting Georgia and Armenia. See below for more on specific itineraries.

If you wanted, you might also enjoy spending two weeks in one country. If you’re looking to spend in-depth time in one country in particular, I would recommend Georgia — it has a lot of variety and you can pack a lot into two weeks without being bored.

Two-Week Caucasus Itinerary

I’ve taken my own personal itinerary and slightly finessed it into the perfect two-week Caucasus itinerary for Georgia, Armenia, and Azerbaijan.

This itinerary is for fairly energetic travelers — you’re going to be seeing a lot in a fairly short amount of time. Here’s where you’ll be spending your days:

Days 1-3: Baku, Azerbaijan

Days 3-5: tbilisi, georgia.

• Day 6: Imeriti Wine Region and Kutaisi, Georgia

Days 7-9: Svaneti, Georgia

Days 10-12: yerevan, armenia, days 13-14: dilijan, armenia.

For your two weeks in the Caucasus, start in Azerbaijan . Why Azerbaijan first? I recommend Azerbaijan before visiting Armenia (see more on that below) and you can get direct flights to Baku from the US.

Spend your first day exploring the best of Baku: explore the UNESCO World-Heritage-listed Old City, stroll the streets and check out the cool cafes in the city; pose for photos at the modern, curvaceous Heydar Aliyev Center. At night, get dinner with a view at Panoramic Restaurant (tip: go in the afternoon and reserve their table that has the best view of the Flame Towers at night) or head to the edge of the Caspian Sea to dine on fish at Derya Fish House .

On your second day, explore the sights surrounding Baku. Be sure to head to Qobustan, where you can ride in a Soviet-era vehicle to see the gurgling mud volcanoes. Qobustan is also home to UNESCO World Heritage-listed petroglyphs and an accompanying museum. Back in Baku, visit Ateshgah, the Zoroastrian fire temple, and Yanar Dag, where the fire bursts from the earth. They’re interesting sites in a unique city.

Make sure to have some local tea and buy some local macadamia nuts before you go. Try to get a flight to Tbilisi on the afternoon or evening of Day Three.

Alternative option: If you’re up for an adventure, consider taking the overnight train from Baku to Tbilisi. It won’t save you money — the flight takes an hour and often costs around the same — but it can be a fun cultural experience.

Where to Stay in Baku: While I had a good stay at the mid-range Deniz Inn Boutique Hotel in the Old City, I recommend staying in the hopping neighborhood just east of the Old City instead — two top-rated places around here are Passage Boutique Hotel and The Merchant . Check out more Baku hotels here.

Tbilisi is one of the most beguiling cities I’ve visited in quite some time. The city is stacked in gorgeous layers — monasteries atop mountains, cable cars flying through the air, modern bridges of metal and glass, patterned ancient baths, rocky cliffs dropping into a turquoise river.

While in Tbilisi, dive into Georgia’s food scene — I recommend eating at two of my favorite restaurants, Shavi Lomi and Bina 37 . Spend an evening at Wine Factory, where you can order bottles of wine at cheap prices, and dive into khinkali. Check out the baths and walk through the Peace Bridge. And don’t forget a cable car ride to the top of the city! But most of the fun of Tbilisi is just wandering and see what you find.

Where to Stay in Tbilisi: I absolutely ADORED the Communal Sololaki hotel in Tbilisi. It’s has gorgeous, modern-but-warm design and one of the best breakfasts I’ve ever had in a hotel. This was my favorite hotel of 2019. Get the bathtub room if it’s available! Check out more Tbilisi hotels here.

Day 6: Imereti and Kutaisi, Georgia

Georgia is one of the oldest wine-producing nations in the world. Visiting a winery is one of the quintessential activities of Georgia, and the Imereti region is home to some up-and-coming wine producers.

Start your day by driving to Gori, the hometown of Stalin, and take a walk through his train car, which has been preserved as is outside the Stalin Museum. Next up, the Imereti Wine Region just south of Kutaisi is an up-and-coming international wine destination.

One winery that I recommend is Baia’s Vineyard , a woman-owned winery where she and her sister make qvevri wine in the ground. Their food is sensational, too! Call ahead and book a whole meal.

Once you’ve had your fill, finish the short drive to Kutaisi. Kutaisi is Georgia’s second city, home to the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Gelati Monastery. Kutaisi isn’t as exciting as Tbilisi, but it’s worth a few hours.

Tip: Khinkali, or Georgian dumplings, are a delicious (and dirt-cheap!) specialty — but don’t waste time ordering tons of them in nice restaurants. Instead, go to a casual restaurant that specializes in khinkali. One that I loved was El Depo in Kutaisi.

Where to Stay in Kutaisi: My top pick is the sumptuously comfortable Hotel Argo , just a short walk from the center of town. Check out more hotels in Kutaisi here.

Hidden high amongst the Caucasus mountains is Svaneti, a fascinating region unlike anywhere else in Georgia. Thanks to their geographic isolation, the Svans have maintained their own language and culture for centuries. Svaneti is home to stunning mountain scenery, world-famous stone towers, and villages so isolated that you feel accomplished just for surviving the trip there.

Get an early start on Day 7, driving from Kutaisi to Mestia via Zugdidi — the drive should take around 4.5 hours. Upon arrival, spend the rest of the day chilling out and exploring the mountain-surrounded resort town of Mestia, filled with mountain lodges, cafes, and bars with traditional music.

On the morning of Day 8 in Mestia, check out the Museum of Ethnography to learn about Svan culture. Next up, take the cable car to the top of Zuruldi Ridge, home to the highest restaurant in Georgia. Grab lunch here and enjoy your food with a view!

In the afternoon, set off on the epic two-hour drive to Ushguli.

Tip: the road to Ushguli is extremely rough and ABSOLUTELY MUST be driven by a local driver with experience on this specific road. Do not attempt driving this road on your own. We witnessed drivers who attempted it and had to turn around halfway through. There are plenty of regularly scheduled 4×4 journeys from Mestia.

Visiting Ushguli feels like reaching the end of the world. Just getting there is its own reward — but you don’t need much time there. Explore the villages (including UNESCO World Heritage-listed Chazhashi) and marvel at how the colors change in the valley depending on the time of day.

Have dinner at your guesthouse and spend the night in Ushguli, then get an early ride back to Mestia, stopping to see the famed Tower of Love en route.

Later on Day 9, if you’re able to, fly from Mestia to Tbilisi on Vanilla Sky Airlines, then fly from Tbilisi to Yerevan, Armenia. Keep in mind the Tbilisi flights will arrive and depart from two different airports.

Tip: Vanilla Sky Airlines flights cannot be booked online. You’ll need to call or have a local travel agent secure them for you. If you travel with JayWay Travel like I did, they’ll handle getting these tickets for you. Keep in mind that tickets are limited and sell out quickly — book as soon as possible.

If you have a few hours to kill in between flights in Tbilisi, visit Mtskheta, the ancient capital of Georgia. This city is home to several UNESCO World Heritage Sites: Jvari Monastery, Svetitstkhoveli Cathedral, and Samtavro Monastery. This is a popular spot for Tbilisi residents to get married — if you’re lucky, you might spot a wedding!

If you can’t fly, drive instead, but know it takes a long time. The drive from Mestia to Tbilisi takes about eight hours; from there you could grab a flight to Yerevan from Tbilisi (one hour) or drive the rest of the way (five to six hours). You also have the option of breaking up the journey by overnighting in Kutaisi, Tbilisi, or even Mtskheta.

Where to Stay in Svaneti: In Mestia I highly recommend Chalet Mestia , a centrally located mid-range hotel with the comfiest beds and pillows I experienced in all of Georgia! In Ushguli I recommend Hotel Panorama , with basic ensuite rooms (and nice food). Know before you go that the internet is generally poor in Svaneti — hotels will have frustratingly slow internet or none at all.

Welcome to one of the coolest cities you know nothing about. Spend your arrival day acclimating to Yerevan and strolling around, enjoying the wide, clean streets; the fountains that light up at night; and the chic cafes.

Spend one full day exploring Yerevan. Don’t miss the Yerevan Cascade, Republic Square, the Vernissage, and the Armenian Genocide Memorial. If you drink, a visit to the Ararat Brandy Factory is a delicious and interesting experience!

One of the pleasures of Yerevan is exploring all the cafes and bars, especially in warmer weather. Two of my favorites are Temurnots , home to the absolute best bread I had in Armenia (don’t forget to stuff it with thick matsoni yogurt, cheese, and fresh herbs). Gouroo Club and Garden has a beautiful outdoor setting and terrific international food.

Armenia is a small country and you can see quite a bit of the country on day trips from Yerevan. I recommend reserving at least one day for day trips from Yerevan.

My top day trip recommendation is to visit Khor Virap monastery (don’t miss the view from the road with Mount Ararat in the background), Noravank Monastery, and the town of Areni, where you can stop for lunch and perhaps some wine tasting.

Where to Stay in Yerevan: I recommend the Tufenkian Historic Yerevan Hotel . It’s centrally located just off the Vernissage, the rooms are large and comfortable, and they offer a great breakfast. Check out more hotels in Yerevan here.

Wind down your trip in a chilled out town. Dilijan calls itself “the Switzerland of Armenia,” which I think is a bit overly laudatory, but it is a beautiful, quiet, peaceful region with mountains, lakes, and evergreen forests. If you’re visiting in the summer, it’s cooler here than most of Armenia.

On the way to Dilijan from Yerevan, you can stop at Lake Sevan and/or Geghard Monastery — both excellent spots for photos. In Dilijan, don’t miss Cafe Number Two (where they train teenagers to work in the hospitality industry!) and Papanino House .

Where to Stay in Dilijan: I enjoyed my stay at the Tufenkian Old Hotel Complex , located in one of the beautiful wooden buildings. It’s a central and comfortable place to stay, but do keep in mind it’s a popular Instagram spot and you might get crowds coming up to your balcony to pose. Check out more hotels in Dilijan here.

Alternative Two Week Caucasus Itineraries

If you’re not a fan of this two weeks in the Caucasus itinerary, that’s totally fine! Feel free to modify it to fit your needs. That’s the beauty of travel — we do what’s right for each our travel needs. I wouldn’t recommend reducing time in any of these locations, but you can absolutely strike certain locations altogether. Here are three suggested modifications:

Remove Baku from the itinerary and add more three more days in Georgia and/or Armenia. This would be my top suggestion — Azerbaijan was interesting, but Georgia and Armenia were more beautiful, more fun, cheaper, and had more variety to offer.

Replace Svaneti with Kazbegi. Traveling to Svaneti requires a lot of time on the road and I understand if you’d rather not do that. Instead, plan 2-3 days in Kazbegi, which also has spectacular mountain scenery and is a much easier three-hour drive from Tbilisi. Kazbegi is more developed than Svaneti and has a greater variety of accommodation options.

Skip Kutaisi and Imereti and fly from Tbilisi to Mestia and back. Be sure to book these flights on Vanilla Sky Airlines in advance, as seats are limited. This is another way to see the mountains without the long drive to Mestia.

Spend more time day-tripping from Tbilisi. If you axe either Baku or Svaneti, Tbilisi makes a great base for day-tripping around Georgia. You can add day trips to Mtskheta, the Kakheti wine region, or Davit Gareja monastery.

Add some beach time in Batumi. This resort town on Georgia’s Black Sea coast is spectacularly set among palm trees and mountains. It’s a popular party spot, especially in the summer.

One Week in the Caucasus

If you only have one week to spend in the Caucasus, spend it all in Georgia. You won’t regret it.

Tips for Visiting the Caucasus

Georgia, Armenia, and Azerbaijan are developing countries with little tourism infrastructure. Traveling in these countries is much more challenging than traveling in Europe. You’ll find fewer tourists, limited travel resources and service tends to be at a lower standard. This is why I recommend with a company like JayWay Travel if you’re not used to traveling in countries like these.

The driving in Georgia is terrible. Georgians drive recklessly and the roads are often in poor condition. Be sure to always wear your seat belt. Don’t be afraid to tell your driver to slow down. I urge you not to drive in Georgia unless you are a highly skilled driver who thrives in rough, unpredictable conditions.

Cover up when visiting churches in Georgia and Armenia. Women must cover their heads and must wear long skirts (even if you’re wearing pants). Men must wear long pants. Many monasteries will provide a box of scarfs at the front for women — small ones for your head and large ones with ties to tie around your waist.

Azerbaijan requires a visa for most visitors and you must get it in advance. There are lots of imposter sites that charge you sky-high fees — get it direct from evisa.gov.az . The correct price is $20. If it’s more than that, you may be on an imposter site.

Read up on the Armenian Genocide before you visit. While it happened 100 years ago, the lingering effects affect so much of Armenian life today. I wrote about it in depth here.

Visit Azerbaijan Before Armenia

If you’re planning to visit both Azerbaijan and Armenia, I urge you to visit Azerbaijan first. The two countries do not get along at all, borders are closed, there are no flights between the countries, and each country will interrogate you about your visit to the other country.

One of their conflicts is over Nagorno-Karabakh, also known as Artsakh, a region of southwestern Azerbaijan that is currently occupied by Armenia.

You can absolutely visit both countries — it’s not like visiting Israel, where an Israeli passport stamp will deny you entry to several Muslim nations. But anecdotally speaking, I’ve heard that Azerbaijan tends to give you a harder time about visiting Armenia than the reverse.

Additionally, if you ever visit Nagorno-Karabakh, you will automatically denied entry to Azerbaijan, both on your visa form and at the border.

No matter whether you visit Azerbaijan or Armenia first, be prepared to answer a lot of questions about visiting the other country at immigration. The easiest way is to be truthful and simply say, “Tourism.”

How to Fly to the Caucasus from the United States

It’s not easy to fly to the Caucasus — another reason why it makes sense to plan to visit Georgia, Armenia, and Azerbaijan all at once on the same trip. You may need two layovers.

As of press time, the only direct flight from the United States is from New York to Baku on Azerbaijan Airlines. I’ve taken this flight myself and while it’s nice to fly nonstop, it leaves at the early hour of 4:00 PM, which means you’ll struggle to get any sleep and arrive early in the morning.

Other popular flight routes from the US to Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan are on Turkish Airlines via Istanbul (not to Armenia for obvious reasons) and via Kyiv on Ukrainian Airlines.

You may want to consider booking a flight to a European hub, then booking a cheap budget flight to Georgia or Armenia. WizzAir has cheap flights to Kutaisi, Georgia, from several European cities, and RyanAir is adding cheap flights to Yerevan and Gyumri in Armenia in 2020.

Travel the Caucasus with JayWay Travel

I traveled throughout the Caucasus as a guest of  JayWay Travel , a bespoke travel agency specializing in Central and Eastern Europe.  I’ve worked with JayWay Travel for trips to Ukraine in 2017 prior to this Caucasus trip in 2019. JayWay added all three Caucasus countries as destinations in 2018.

JayWay builds custom trips to destinations and organizes your trip in full, arranging hotels, transportation, special experiences, and guides along the way. They also give you a SIM card or even a cell phone so you can stay in touch easily.

Not all travelers need that amount of trip planning — but the best thing that JayWay does is make developing, low-infrastructure countries like Georgia, Armenia, and Azerbaijan easier to handle.  For example, public transportation in Georgia is mainly by marshrutka, or shared minibus, but JayWay will arrange a private driver to take you from sight to sight.

JayWay also sets you up with excellent local guides throughout your trip, including a local contact who runs your trip. If you get to meet Gio in Georgia, you’ll love him!

The guides handle so much of the day-to-day in the Caucasus. They’re accustomed to what Americans expect for customer service — and standards here are very basic and not typically American.

Some of the other advantages of traveling to three different countries with JayWay: they handle things like adding in stopovers between destinations, making local recommendations, showing off the local food specialties, and handling any troubleshooting you need along the way.

Let me put it this way — someone like me can travel independently in the Caucasus, but most casual travelers I know would have a harder time.  I wouldn’t feel comfortable with someone new to traveling in developing countries, like my parents, traveling here independently, but I would feel very comfortable if they were traveling the Caucasus with JayWay.

Have you traveled the Caucasus? What would you suggest?

The Ultimate Georgia Armenia Azerbaijan Itinerary

Planning a trip to the Caucasus? Are you looking for the ultimate Georgia Armenia Azerbaijan itinerary? Then this is the perfect blog for you.

If you have two and a half weeks to see all three countries in the Caucasus then simply follow this itinerary to see the highlights.

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Post Updated Jan, 2024

If you have three or four weeks, you can travel at a slower pace and enjoy this beautiful part of the world.

I would certainly suggest spending a little bit more time in Georgia if you can, undoubtedly the gem of this region. 

This Georgia Armenia Azerbaijan itinerary is helpful for any first-time visitor as these countries are relatively unknown to many. Perhaps it’s due to their location?

Located in-between Europe, Asia, and the Middle East, it’s harder to include them in regional travels and international travellers have discovered them only recently.

But don’t expect not to see tourists – there are plenty of them, especially in Georgia. 

Table of Contents

What you need to know before you go to Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan

1. What are the countries in the Caucasus?

Firstly, there are three countries known as the Caucasus: Armenia, Georgia and Azerbaijan.

Secondly, there are also three disputed territories in the Caucasus: Abkhazia, South Ossetia and Nagorno-Karabakh. 

The borders between Armenia and Azerbaijan are completely closed and it is impossible to travel between the two. Therefore it makes sense to follow this itinerary and do it in reverse.

2. When is the best time to visit Georgia Armenia Azerbaijan?

The best time to visit is during the warmest months of summer (July & August) and the shoulder season of May, June and September.

On the other hand, if you love wine you can visit for  rtveli  – an annual grape harvest held in September in Georgia.

3. How much does it cost to travel to the Caucasus?

All three countries, Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan, are affordable. For example, we spent around 30 euros per person per day staying in guesthouses or apartments (we used Booking.com) and primarily used public transport.

In a nutshell, we found Armenia to be the cheapest and Azerbaijan more expensive, mainly due to the higher cost of accommodation.

4. What language do they speak in Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan?

Each country has its local language: Georgian, Armenian, and Azeri. Armenian and Georgian languages have their alphabet.

But most young people do speak English, especially in Georgia. Older locals speak Russian, as all three countries were once part of the Soviet Union. 

5. What currency do they use?

The three countries use different currencies. In Georgia, they use the Lari; in Armenia the Dram; and in Azerbaijan, they use the Manat.

There are plenty of ATMs, and it’s helpful to have some euros in cash, sometimes, you can get a better exchange rate on the ground.

6. Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan – do I need a visa?

No visa is required for most nationals travelling to Georgia or Armenia as tourists. Currently, British and EU citizens enjoy a visa-free regime.

However, you will need a visa for Azerbaijan. Visit the Evisa page to get more info:  https://evisa.gov.az/en/

7. What else should I know about travels in the Caucasus?

Cover up when visiting orthodox churches in Georgia and Armenia. Women must cover their heads and must wear long skirts (even if you’re wearing pants). Please note that men must wear long pants. 

Many monasteries will provide a box of scarves for women to borrow during your visit, but it’s better to bring or buy your own . The large scarves provided are to be tied around your waist. 

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The Perfect Itinerary for Azerbaijan Georgia and Armenia 

Day 1: baku, azerbaijan.

• Day 2: A day trip to Qobustan

Day 3: Baku, Azerbaijan and depart for Georgia

Day 4: tbilisi, georgia , day 5: day trip from tbilisi to the wine region kakheti, day 6: day trip from tbilisi to kazbegi .

• Day 7: A full free day in Tbilisi or visit Mtskheta 

Day 8: Svaneti region

Day 9: svaneti region, day 10: svaneti to kutaisi, day 11: kutaisi to tbilisi , day 12. tbilisi to yerevan.

• Day 13: Yerevan, Armenia

Day 14: Yerevan to Dilijan

Day 15: yerevan to geghard monastery, day 16: yerevan to noravank monastery, day 17: fly out of yerevan .

Arrive in Baku, Azerbaijan. A few flights connect Baku internationally. For instance,  Qatar Airways  & Etihad flights are usually the best for intercontinental travellers.

And  Wizzair  offers low-cost flights to Budapest, Europe.

Check-in and head out to the UNESCO World-Heritage-listed Old City. The main highlights of the city centre are the Palace of the Shirvanshahs, the Maiden Tower, Baku Boulevard, and Fountain Square. 

The Flame Towers are a symbol of Baku and for the best views, you can enjoy a drink or meal in the Fairmount Hotel restaurant. 

Day 2: A day trip to Qobustan ( also known as Gobustan)

Set out early to visit Qobustan. You could certainly try to negotiate a taxi to drive you there and back as public transport can be challenging. But, to save you a lot of hassle, we recommend you book this day trip on Viator . It will provide you with much in-depth experience. 

Qobustan is home to UNESCO World Heritage-listed petroglyphs, and it has a small museum.

It’s located 67km away from Baku along the Caspian Coast. Therefore organising a day trip instead of public transport might be a great idea.

On your final day in Baku – visit places in the old town you missed on your first one. Enjoy cafes and shopping.

You can either book a flight with Skyscanner from Baku to Tbilisi in Georgia with Azerbaijan Airlines ( around 140 USD) or choose the overnight train!

There are three types of tickets for the train. I would recommend the 1st class which is a private compartment with 2 beds for 2 people. The cost is around 35 USD.

If that is not available, then book the 2nd class sleeper which consists of a private compartment with 4 beds for 4 people. We shared this with a teacher from Dagestan. Train travel is a fantastic way to see the countryside and to meet locals. 

Train 38 leaves Baku every day at 20:40, arriving in Tbilisi at 08:55. You can easily buy a ticket from Baku to Tbilisi at  https://ticket.ady.az  – select  English  top right and book from Baku-Pass to Tbilisi-Pass.

You must collect your ticket at least 1 hour before departure. Or buy the ticket a day before. 

Where to stay in Baku? View ALL Accommodation Options here .

*You might arrive the night before if taking the flight instead of the overnight train 

You will fall in love with the capital of Georgia, Tbilisi. The old town is full of amazing eateries, bars, and cafes, and people are smiley and welcoming. In other words, it is a city that will get under your skin. 

Next, find the famous clock tower. Then try the local khinkali and more of the fantastic Georgian cuisine. You can find some great recommendations for Georgian meals to try in our posts about what to eat in Georgia .

Spend the day exploring the old town, walk across the Peace Bridge and then head up to Narikala Fortress which offers excellent views of the city. 

Where to stay in Tbilisi:

• Budget : Fabrika Hostel & Suites  (from $10/night). Dorms or private rooms. The perfect stay for a short trip to Baku, conveniently located in historical Marjanishvili, one of the most attractive neighbourhoods in Tbilisi.
• Mid-Range : Royal Plaza Hotel (from $33/night). Prime location, clean & comfortable.
• Boutique : City Inn Tbilisi (from $48/night). Clean, comfortable rooms and a great breakfast included. This hotel is in a great location, close to many main attractions.
• Luxury: Hilton Garden Inn Tbilisi Chavchavadze – (from $120/night).

Visiting Nakhchivan – The Fascinating Exclave of Azerbaijan

9 Best Cafes in Tbilisi

Food in Azerbaijan – 10 Most Popular Dishes

Georgia is known for amazing wine, and it is considered the birthplace of today’s winemaking. Georgian wines are named according to the source region, village, or district just like in France.

We recommend this private day tour of the Kakheti wine region from Tbilisi. This is the most popular region to visit from the capital.

If you have some extra time, you could also spend a day or two here in the beautiful cobblestoned village of Sighnaghi. 

You can reach Kakheti by shared or private taxi from ISANI Metro Station – pay 40 GEL for a private car or 10 GEL per seat. You won’t wait longer than 30-40 minutes.

If you’re on a budget and have more time you could get there on a minibus or local Mashrtuka for just 6 GEL. They depart from Samgori Metro station every 2 hours and usually take up to 2.5 hours. 

While you could easily spend another day (or a week) in Tbilisi, you should consider another day trip to Kazbegi. 

You have probably seen a picture of the Gergeti Trinity Church before – it might have been a reason you put Georgia on your bucket list. 

To get to Kazbegi you will need to take a Marshrutka to the town of Stepantsminda. Marshrutkas leave every 4 hours from the outside of Didube Metro station and take about 3 hours.

Due to the time getting up and down and possibly trekking to the Gergeti Trinity Church (which takes around 4 hours as a round trip if walking, but hiring a taxi would be faster), an overnight in Kazbegi is required – we stayed at this wonderful guesthouse . 

You could  visit Kazbegi on a day trip  and return to Tbilisi the same day.

Day 7: A full free day in Tbilisi or visit Mtskheta

You could spend the full day in Tbilisi, but for a nearby experience, visit the former capital and UNESCO-listed Mtskheta.

Getting there on local transport is easy and cheap, or hire a taxi (40 minutes). While you’re there, check out the sixth-century Georgian Orthodox Jvari Monastery. If you head there early, you will have the afternoon-evening back in the capital – for more delicious food.

Here are the  Top 9 best cafes in Tbilisi.

Alternatively, you could also visit Davit Gareja Monastery.

Viator is one of our favourite sites for booking food tours, day tours, and attraction tickets. It’s so easy to just browse the tours on Viator , pay online, and immediately receive your tour voucher.

You would return from Kazbegi or Mtshekta the day before and overnight in Tbilisi. Now it’s time to head up to the famous Svaneti region and the town of Mestia. Known for the famous stone towers and villages isolated from the rest of Georgia and the world.

The Svaneti region is so unique its people have their own Svan language. 

Getting here takes all day or nine hours by marshrutka from Tbilisi Station Square. However, there are some epic views en route, and you will stop for lunch. 

Alternatively, you could choose to fly up here with Vanilla Sky Airlines (Which can be booked via a local agent only), or you could break the journey in Kutaisi, but I suggest doing that on the way back.

It is up to you how you spend the free day. You could hike up to the Mestia Cross, explore the small town of Mestia and check out the Svaneti Museum of History and Ethnography. You could trek to Chaladi Glacier.

Or, ideally, head to the picturesque town of Ushguli – the highest settlement in Europe at an elevation of 2,200m above sea level.  

We have spent five days in Svaneti, so trust me, there is plenty to do, but even two nights will give you a taste of this region. 

Where to stay in Svaneti: Set in Mestia, Mestia House is an excellent place to stay—clean, spacious rooms with comfortable beds and a great breakfast.

View more hotels/guesthouses in Mestia

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Take a marshrutka from Mestia to Kutaisi, it takes about 5 hours. Spend the afternoon exploring the town. Check out the Kutaisi Green Bazaar and the old town. You could add two nights here and visit Imareti – another wine region on a free day.

Where to Stay in Kutaisi:  My top pick is the comfortable  Old Kutaisi Bed & Breakfast , just a short walk from the centre of town and fantastic breakfast included in the room rate, from $15/night.

Check out more accommodations in Kutaisi

Continue the journey to Tbilisi on local marshrutka. This will take you about 4 hours. Then spend the afternoon at your leisure.

However, this is a great opportunity to check out some of the best cafes in Tbilisi  or explore different neighbourhoods.

If you were trying to make up some time you could head to Yerevan the same day – please note it takes 6 hours so it would be a full day of travel.

Start your day early and say goodbye to Georgia. Take the minivan (marshrutka) from Metro Station Avlabari . The journey will take about 5 or 6 hours. 

Where to stay in Yerevan:

• Budget : Santorini Guesthouse (from $7/night). Dorms or private rooms. Great value for money.
• Mid-Range : Inter Boutique Hotel  (from $27/night). It has a great location, comfortable rooms, and great breakfast included.
• Boutique : Arève Résidence Boutique Hotel (from $50/night). Great location, with superb reviews.
• Luxury:   Armenia Marriott Hotel Yerevan (from $140/night). 

Day 13: Yerevan – a full day to explore

Yerevan feels very different to Baku or Tbilisi. It is a huge city; there are cafes, cool wine/jazz bars and some epic squares. Furthermore, the food is also incredible, and the capital has a few fantastic places to eat. 

Don’t miss the Yerevan Cascade, the Vernissage, the Armenian Genocide Memorial and the Republican Square. Also, if you want to try something very Armenian – try Ararat brandy.

Or let a local guide take you around to see the city’s highlights in a classic car on this  Yerevan City Tour .

• 🔥 Hot Tip: Book accommodation in advance on Booking.com
• 🎟 Book your attractions and tickets online: We recommend Viator and GetYourGuide
• 🔋 Stay charged: This Belkin Power Bank is essential!
• 📸 Join a Group Tour: Find some amazing Group Tours here
• ✅ Get Connected with an eSIM: Fast, easy and affordable! View easy eSIM options here

If you were short on time you could fly out today after spending 2 weeks in the Caucasus making the perfect Georgia Armenia Azerbaijan itinerary. 

But I do hope you have more time to see more of Armenia because it’s worth it.

Today, head out to Dilijan – known as the Switzerland of Armenia. You want to leave on the first mashrutka so you can return on the last one, which goes around 4 pm. The journey takes about 1.5 hours.

Dilijan is home to a few Armenian cultural sites like the Haghartsin Monastery or Goshavank Monastery.

But I suggest you go to Parz Lake first – a popular spot for locals during summer. This is the largest body of water in Armenia. Also, you can rent a boat or enjoy the scenery.

Tell the driver in Yerevan that you want to go to Lake Sevan. He will charge you a little bit more to drop you off, but it will save you the hassle of getting another bus from Dilijan.

On the other hand, you could also visit Garni, Gegard and Lake Sevan on a day trip.

After the lake, head into Dilijan town. You can spend some time in the spa town or, if you are keen – Visit Haghartsin Monastery, which is about 30 minutes away.

After that, return to Yerevan in the late afternoon.

Enjoy having Yerevan as a base. Next up, head to the World Heritage Site carved out of the rock face at the Azat River Gorge – the famous Geghard Monastery.

The monastery is incredible, but you will probably be one of the few visitors there. The monastery was built in the 13th century; you can visit its grounds. 

If you are taking public transport, you must pay for a taxi from the town of Goght, but it was no problem for us.

If you prefer to spend an extra day in Yerevan, I would understand.

But if you wish to get out there again and see another fantastic monastery, this time with amazing landscape views, then Noravank is perfect.

There are  day trips you can choose here to make it easier, or head out here on public transport. Come early (depart at 8 am), and you will have the place to yourself.

Consisting of different tower-like churches, Noravank is different to Geghard. 

To get here, catch a marshrutka from the Arshakunyats Bus Station heading to Yeghednadzor – it will take 2 hours.

During the trip, tell the driver that you are going to the monastery. As a result, he will drop you off outside Edem Restaurant.

Then, from here, you can either catch a taxi, hitchhike or walk the 6 km to the monastery.

The time has come to leave. However, with some great cheap flights with Wizzair (always find the best deals on  Skyscanner ), you can get to Europe for a fraction of the cost!

If you are flying internationally, you can fly with  Qatar Airways  via Doha and virtually anywhere. 

Get Connected with eSIM

Get connected easily on your travels—buy an eSIM! An eSIM works like an app: buy it, download it, and get connected in minutes! It’s easy, affordable, and convenient. Keep your original phone number, too!

Click below and view which eSIM data plan you need for your next adventure. Use our referral code: RACHEL5045 , to get $3 off your first purchase !

How to create your own Georgia Armenia Azerbaijan Itinerary

Planning the perfect Georgia-Armenia-Azerbaijan itinerary can seem overwhelming at first – but if you fly into Baku and follow this itinerary, you’ll be able to visit the highlights.

If you have less time, then I recommend flying in and spending your time between Georgia and Armenia. If I had to choose a week, I would stick to Georgia – you could base yourself in the capital and do day trips.

Don’t be afraid to choose fabulous day trips with Viator or Get Your Guide if you are not keen on travelling independently.

In short, these will make your travels effortless. Firstly you’ll learn a lot from your guides, and secondly, you will meet other visitors too.

Since many tours are very reasonably priced, it’s worth considering them while here.

Join a Group Tour

We recommend  G Adventures .  This  small-group adventure in Georgia & Armenia  is ideal.

Alternatively, search Tourradar for the best tour suited to your travel style!

Make sure you get Travel Insurance before hitting the road. We recommend Heymondo & SafetyWing Travel Insurance.

Click here and get 5% off Heymondo from us!

Travel Tips for the Caucasus region

This region of the world has some incredible cuisine. Check out our detailed post about  what to eat in Georgia – a food lover’s guide .

We’ve found the  9 best cafes in Tbilisi , and we explain  where to stay in Tbilisi  and some fantastic areas to choose from.

And when you’re visiting Azerbaijan, I recommend you visit Nakhchivan, the fascinating exclave of Azerbaijan.  

The cuisine in Azerbaijan is fantastic! Don’t miss these  10 most popular dishes.  

Travel Planning Resources

✈️ Flights : We use Skyscanner to book cheap flights worldwide.

🏨 Accommodation :  Booking.com is our preferred platform for booking hotels and accommodation. We use Vrbo to book apartments and long-term stays.

🏥 Travel Insurance : We recommend Heymondo ( Get 5% off Heymondo)  & SafetyWing

🚌 Transportation : Trainline is the best website to reserve trains. We use Omio to book transport worldwide. For travel in Asia, we use 12Go.  

🚘 Car Rental : We use DiscoverCars to book rental cars worldwide.

👫 Group Tours :  G Adventures OR compare multi-day tours worldwide with Tourradar .

📸 Day Tours & Trips :  GetYourGuide  & Viator are the only two platforms you need.

📚 Lonely Planet: The Best Range of Travel Guides & Ebooks , and FREE Shipping! (use code RACHELDAVEY10 for a 10% discount)

🎒 Luggage :  Osprey Farpoint 40L Backpack  or  Samsonite Luggage Range.

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Andrew Montgomery

Georgia, Armenia & Azerbaijan

This thrillingly mountainous, scenically spectacular and culturally diverse region is where Asia and Europe rub up against each other, with often unpredictable and fascinating results.

Leave the planning to a local expert

Experience the real Georgia, Armenia & Azerbaijan. Let a local expert handle the planning for you.

Attractions

Must-see attractions.

Heydar Aliyev Center

Vast and jaw-droppingly original, this Zaha Hadid building is a majestic statement of fluid 21st-century architecture forming abstract waves and peaks…

Gelati Monastery

Western Georgia

This Unesco World Heritage–listed monastery complex, on a wooded hillside 8km northeast of Kutaisi, is an outstanding example of Golden Age architecture…

Geghard Monastery

Garni & Geghard

Named after the lance that pierced Christ’s side at the crucifixion (a shard is now on display at the museum in Etchmiadzin), this World Heritage–listed…

Udabno Monastery

Davit Gareja

Less of a monastery than a series of cave-hewn chapels, Udabno runs along a steep escarpment looking down to grassy plains in Azerbaijan. While many caves…

The remarkable cave city of Vardzia is both a cultural symbol and a spectacular natural phenomenon with a special place in Georgian hearts. King Giorgi…

Armenian Genocide Memorial & Museum

Commemorating the massacre of Armenians in the Ottoman Empire from 1915 to 1922, this institution uses photographs, documents, reports and films to…

Tsminda Sameba Church

Stepantsminda

This 14th-century church 2200m above Stepantsminda has become almost a symbol of Georgia for its incomparably photogenic hilltop setting with mighty Mt…

Svetitskhoveli Cathedral

Southern Georgia

This extraordinary (and for its time, enormous) building dates from the 11th century, early in the golden age of Georgian church architecture. It has an…

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Georgia, Armenia & Azerbaijan

The three republics straddling the Caucasus in the former Soviet Union, Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan have much in common, yet are each very different indeed. Georgia and Armenia share an ancient Christian culture, whereas the population of Azerbaijan is overwhelmignly Muslim. Georgia offers a huge variety of landscapes, rich culture and incredible mountain vistas; resilient Armenia is home to a plethora of monasteries and monuments; Azerbaijan, the 'Land of Fire' meanwhile, lies at a crossroads of empires, a unique country rushing headlong into the future.

The best time

to travel to 

Best places to see in

Best things to do in 

Our best itineraries in

best time to travel

The best times to travel to Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan are April through June and September and October, when the weather is mild. May is the best month for hiking and also a time when flowers bloom. Fall is a good time to try fresh produce. Snow can fall in the mountains as early as October and last until April. Summers are very hot while winters can be quite cold.

places to go 

Key experiences .

Tbilisi (Georgia)

While in Georgia's capital be sure to visit the National Museum, the National Gallery, and visit its many churches, including Metekhi Church, lovely Anchiskhati Basilica and Sioni Cathedral.  Ride the cable car up to Narikala Fortress for fine views of the Old Town; in the latter take some time in one of its many quirky cafes.

Kakheti (Georgia)

The Kakheti region is an area of beautiful green valleys, famous for its traditional wine production.  Telavi has a raucous farmer's market while Tsinandalia is a historic estate once owned by the Georgian poet Chavchavadze.  Its gardens are beautifully laid out in the English style.  Alaverdi Cathedral is Georgia's tallest monastery and surrounded by a beautiful cypress grove.

Mtskheta (Georgia)

Mtskheta, the ancient capital and religious centre of Georgia is home to Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, one of Georgia’s most important religious monuments.  Nearby Jvari Monastery offers great views of the town below.

Georgian Military Highway (Georgia)

The Georgian Military Highway is a historic route through the Caucasus Mountains linking Georgia with Russia.  It is a stunning mountain road, culminating for most travellers in the view of Tsminda Sameba (a.k.a. Gergeti Trinity) Church, set against the backdrop of towering Mount Kazbek.

Tsminda Sameba a.k.a. Gergeti Trinity Church (Georgia)

One of the most instantly recognizable images of Georgia is that of Tsminda Sameba Church.  Stunningly located on a hilltop overlooking the snowy peaks of the Caucasus, it makes for a great destination for a hike.

Gori (Georgia)

The town of Gori is home to the Stalin museum, the Soviet dictator who was born here.  The museum lays homage to its most famous son, conveniently overlooking many of the horrors he perpetrated.  Nearby, the cave city of Uplistsikhe is one of the oldest settlements in the region.

Vardzia (Georgia)

One of Georgia's most famous sights, the cave town of Vardzia is cut into towering cliffs.  Over 500 caves, home to churches, halls, and wine cellars, are all connected by tunnels and stairways.

Gelati Monastery (Georgia)

The UNESCO listed monastery at Gelati is one of Georgia's most important churches.  Gelati turned out many great thinkers and the main Cathedral has some of the best-preserved frescoes in the country.

Svaneti (Georgia)

Surrounded by mountains, the Svaneti region in the Caucasus is famous for its tower-houses, built to protect villagers during times of invasion.  Mestia is the main town here and its Ethnography Museum is well worth a visit, while the surrounding area makes for great hiking.

Batumi (Georgia)

Located on the shores of the Black Sea, and set  against a backdrop of pretty mountains, Batumi was one of the premiere seaside resorts of the USSR.  Its parks, fountains and beaches are still popular with locals.

Baku (Azerbaijan)

Azerbaijan's capital is a city where old meets new, a city running headlong into the future.  Wander around the fortified Old Town or see how a steady influx of oil money has led to a building frenzy resulting in some jaw-dropping architecture.  Climb the ancient Maiden’s Tower for views over the town and bay and visit the Palace of the Shirvanshahs dynasty.

Qobustan (Azerbaijan)

A World Heritage site, Qobustan is one the world's largest open-air archaeological sites, famous for its ancient petroglyphs and even a Roman inscription.  The area is also known for its bubbling mud volcanoes.

Sheki (Azerbaijan)

Sheki, once a thriving market town, has a palace complex with magnificent frescoes and stained glass.  Sheki and nearby mountain villages offer many local craft workshops.  

Yerevan (Armenia)

Armenia's capital is  a town where old meets new and traditional meets designer-chic.  Enjoy its many outdoor cafes where locals come to linger and be sure to visit its History Museum and the Genocide Memorial & Museum.

Monasteries of Haghpat (Armenia)

The two Byzantine monasteries at Haghpat are listed by UNESCO on account of their outstanding ecclesiastical architecture, blending Byzantine and local styles.

Dilijan (Armenia)

Picturesque Dilijan is famed for its well-preserved 18th century houses and tis local handicraft studios.

Lake Sevan (Armenia)

One of the largest high-altitude lakes in the world, Lake Sevan, with its backdrop of mountains, is known for its ever-changing hues.

Noravank Monastery (Armenia)

This spectacular 13th century monastery is a must-see, especially in the evening when the red cliffs surrounding it light up in the setting sun.

Garni (Armenia)

Built in the first century, the Hellenistic temple at Garni was dedicated to the God of the Sun.

Geghard Monastery (Armenia)

The 12th century UNESCO listed Geghard Monastery is carved out of a cliff and set in a beautiful location and has some well-preserved carvings.  

Khor Virap Monastery  (Armenia)

Offering beautiful views of Mount Ararat, Khor Virap is the residence of the Armenian Catholicos and connected to the conversion to Christianity of the first Armenian king.

Step back in time

No matter where you go in this region, history is everywhere.  From the old towns in the three capitals, through the empires of the Achaemenids, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Seljuks, Timurids , Ottomans, Mongols, Russian czars and Soviets, each has left its imprint in the form of ruins, castles, temples, mosques and churches.

Hike the mountains (Georgia)

One of the best hikes in the region is the hike up to Gergeti Trinity (Tsminda Sameba) Church.  The church, stunningly located on a hilltop overlooking the snowy peaks of the Caucasus Mountains, is one of the most instantly recognizable images of Georgia.  Elsewhere in Georgia, the Svaneti region in the Caucasus is famous for its tower-houses and makes for great hiking.  And of course there is the trans-Caucasian Trail, winding its way through Armenia and Georgia.

Drive the Military Highway (Georgia)

Unforgettable views will await you when you drive the Georgian Military Highway from Tbilisi to Kazbegi.

Food, glorious food

Khachapuri (bread stuffed with salty cheese) is a Georgian speciality, while khinkali are the country's famous dumplings.  Khachapuri is a traditional Georgian dish of cheese-filled bread and lobio, a mixture of beans, coriander, walnuts, garlic, and onion.  In Armenia be sure to try khoravats (barbecue meats), oghee (fruit vodka) and delicious fresh flat bread, known locally as lovash.  Perhaps have it with tomatoes and goat cheese and have some gata (coffee cake) for dessert.  In Azerbaijan, plov is prepared with saffron-covered rice and served with various herbs and greens.  Kebabs and shashlik are other staples.

Taste the wine (Georgia, Armenia)

Zhghia is a naturally fermented dry red wine made from the rarest and highest quality Kakhetian grapes.  The  large earthenware vessels used for the fermentation, storage and ageing of traditional Georgian wine known as Qvevri are inscribed by UNESCO in its list of world's intangible cultural heritage.  Areni Village is the place in Armenia to stop at a local winery to taste the best wine in the country

Ride a cable car (Georgia)

When in Tbilisi, be sure to ride the cable car to Narikala Fortress and enjoy the views of the old town.  Batumi too has a cable car up a local mountain which affords fine views of the city.

Visit a monastery (Georgia, Armenia)

Entering a monastery in Georgia or Armenia is like stepping back to the beginning of time.  Be awed by the mystery and perhaps attend a service complete with magical choral hymns and chants.

Wander through old streets

The three capitals, Baku, Tbilisi and Yerevan, each have old quarters to get lost in.  Put your map or phone away, just wander and see what you might discover next.

Catch a tune

Music is an integral part to any culture.  In Georgia, be sure to hear the polyphonic songs prevalent in the Kakheti region, while in Armenia the duduk is a flute-like instrument listed on the UNESCO intangible Cultural Heritage List.

People watching in a cafe

Most cities have streetside cafes but Tbilisi has its share of quirky ones while Yerevan has plenty of outdoor cafes, great to watch the world go by and perhaps meet up with locals.

Have a bath (Georgia)

Try a sulphur bath in Tbilisi or a hot spring in central Georgia's Borjomi, famous for its volcanic salty waters and baths.

Visit a dictator

The Stalin museum in Gori pays homage to its most famous son, conveniently overlooking many of the horrors he perpetrated.

Watch a tower

The mountainous Svaneti region in the Caucasus is famous for its watchtowers, built to protect villagers during times of invasion in the early middle ages.  These stone towers served as both homes and fortresses for the local people.

Go to the beach

In the days of the USSR Batumi was one of the foremost beach resorts.  While the apparatchiks are gone, the beach is still popular with locals.

• When Is The Best Time...

When is the Best Time to Visit Azerbaijan?

Diversity in landscapes and climatic zones make the Land of Fire an alluring destination at any time of the year. Here’s the best time to visit Azerbaijan for sightseeing in the lowlands, enjoying the seasonal migratory birds, hiking in the Caucasus Mountains and having cultural experiences.

When Christmas is out of the way, most tourists head to warmer climates rather than the cold and icy Caucasus. But the braver tourists who do can experience an exceptional New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day celebration in Baku. Baku itself is full of lights and colour decorating the streets, and endless parties in the bars , hotels and restaurants entertain tourists. New Year’s celebrations take place in other parts of the country, but Baku is by far the most active. Stick around the capital until the end of the month for Martyrs Day . The holiday on January 20 commemorates the loss of 130 Azerbaijani lives when Soviet tanks stormed the city during protests on January 20, 1990. Average temperature in Baku: 2-7°C (36-44°F). Rainy days: 6. Snowy days: 4.

Novruz Bayrami , the Persian New Year, takes place towards the end of March. The Zoroastrian celebration is a national holiday in Azerbaijan to honour spring’s arrival. Locals host regular events and festivals with endless supplies of traditional food and drinks. Tourists visiting in late spring should aim to be in Azerbaijan to experience this unique and once-in-a-lifetime cultural event. As the spring starts, green foliage starts to fill the landscapes with colour before the summer’s parched brown. Average temperature in Baku: 4-10°C (39-50°C). Rainy days: 5.

Sheki, an ancient town dating back more than 2000 years, sits in the foothills of the Greater Caucasus Mountains. With an abundance of history and culture in this destination near the Georgian border, visiting Sheki often rates as a top activity in Azerbaijan. Winters tend to be cold and harsh. Given the location near the mountains, head to Sheki in spring and experience the rebirth of the leaves and flowers. Average temperature in Sheki: 5-19°C (41-66°F). Rainy days: 12.

Walk around the streets of many towns and cities in Azerbaijan and be greeted with the name May 28. The date refers to Republic Day, which marks the day the Democratic Republic of Azerbaijan was formed in 1918. For a brief two years until 1920, the nation was independent. Expect celebrations and limited opening times in shops along with potential travel disruptions. Baku is the best place to experience Republic Day celebrations in Azerbaijan. Average temperature in Baku: 15-22°C (59-72°F). Rainy days: 3.

Summers in Azerbaijan are hot. By hot, expect temperatures to sometimes reach 40°C (104°F) in Baku. Combine the heat with humidity from the Caspian Sea, and it makes an uncomfortable place for sightseeing in June. That being said, most of Baku’s population seems to take long siestas in the afternoon and emerge again after nightfall, when the temperatures are more tolerable. Consider heading to one of the beach resorts or head south to Lankaran. Average temperature in Lankaran: 28-34°C (84-93°F). Rainy days: 1

While summer might be hot in the lowlands, the highlands experience more pleasant temperatures making it an ideal time for hiking. Head to either Sheki or Quba and expect more comfortable temperatures. For this reason, July is the best time for hiking in the Caucasus Mountains . Xinaliq’s snow only melts in July. In the Azerbaijan lowlands, expect temperatures to hover around the lows 30s (86-95°F). Average temperature in Xinaliq: 10-20°C (50-68°F). Rainy days: 6.

Visiting Baku in summer isn’t a problem for those who don’t mind the hot sunny weather. Local tends to head to the beaches along the Absheron Peninsula . Strong winds tend to blow across the Caspian Sea, cooling the air slightly. Consider visiting Quba to escape the coastal heat. The small cultural town nestled in the foothill of the Caucasus Mountains is enshrined in history and traditions. From the world’s only all-Jewish settlement outside Israel, to ancient mountain villages and a variety of languages, Quba makes an intriguing place to visit in Azerbaijan’s summer. Average temperature in Quba: 18-28°C (64-82°F). Rainy days: 1.

Lake Goygol near Ganja in Central Azerbaijan ranks among the most beautiful spots in the country. With its deep blue colours and surrounding forests, the mountainous lake attracts hordes of local tourists each year. Visiting Lake Goygol on a day trip from Ganja is a common activity. But arguably one of the best times to visit Azerbaijan to see the lake is towards the end of summer. The green leaves change to orange, browns and auburns blanketing the perimeter of the lake. Average temperature in Lake Goygol: 7-18°C (45-65°F). Rainy days: 6

The transition between summer and autumn is abrupt. Clouds roll over Baku in October and the capital experiences more drizzle. Temperatures hover in the mid-20s with cooler evenings. According to locals, the best time to visit Azerbaijan is during October after the oppressive summer heat and before the onset of winter. Sightseeing in Baku and taking day trips to visit Ateshgah, Yanar Dag (Baku’s ‘Burning Mountain’) and Gobustan National Park will be much more comfortable. Heading to the highlands and hiking in the Caucasus might not be such a good idea. Independence Day celebrations take place on October 18 throughout the country too. Average temperature in Baku: 14-20°C (57-68°F). Rainy days: 6.

Few take the time to visit Azerbaijan towards the end of the year when temperatures plummet. But those with a passion for wildlife and the outdoors might appreciate the bird migration. Amateur twitters and experienced ornithologists can observe a variety of birds in Azerbaijan at all times of the year in the national parks. Seasonal birds fly from the harsh Russian winter, making bird-watching an activity to be enjoyed as autumn transitions to winter. Many of the national parks are located along the coast. Average temperature along the Southern Coast of Azerbaijan: 7-14°C (45-57°C). Rainy days: 4-10.

Despite Azerbaijan having a majority Muslim population, the locals still embrace Christmas celebrations throughout the country. From Christmas markets to themed nights at bars and restaurants, tourists will get a taste of the festival spirit in Azerbaijan. Average temperature in Baku: 5-10°C (41-50°F). Rainy days: 6. Snow days: 3.

When not to go to Azerbaijan?

The best time to visit Azerbaijan depends on the specific itinerary and travel plans. Locals suggest avoiding the middle of both summer and winter when temperatures soar to 40°C (104°F) or plummet to below freezing. Spring and early autumn experience more pleasant temperatures for sightseeing while hiking in the Caucasus Mountains should only be attempted in summer. With the majority of people identifying as Muslim in Azerbaijan, it might be easy to assume travel difficulties during the fasting month of Ramadan . But, unlike other Islamic nations further south in the Middle East, Azerbaijan is secular. Everything goes on as usual. Restaurants, cafés and bars open and will be full. Travelling to Azerbaijan in Ramadan shouldn’t pose any problems. The Islamic Eid al Adha or ‘Festival of Sacrifice’ is celebrated in Azerbaijan too.

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The Perfect Caucasus Travel Itinerary: Georgia, Armenia, Azerbaijan

• Last Updated On: September 8, 2023

The Caucasus is a wonderful and relatively less discovered region of the world to travel. I spent over a month traveling the beautiful countries of Georgia, Armenia , and Azerbaijan which was just an amazing experience. From stunning mountains, to beautiful monasteries, delicious cuisine, and warm people, this area has everything to offer interested travelers.

The Caucasus is not a big region. The countries of Georgia, Armenia, and Azerbaijan combined are still smaller than the country of Turkey next door. This region also has one of the most fascinating and complex histories of any region in Eurasia. It was the gateway between east and west during ancient silk road times. In more modern history, these three countries were sandwiched between three historically powerful empires: Ottomans, Russians, and Persians.

If you’re planning a trip to these countries, or just one of these countries, this guide is definitely for you. I will go into detail how I planned my trip, what you need to know about the region, and how to plan your own Caucasus adventure!

A list of all my Caucasus Posts:

• Tbilisi City Guide
• Where to eat the best Khinkali in Tbilisi
• Guide to Mobile phones in Georgia
• Best Gyms in Tbilisi
• Georgia Travel Itinerary
• Yerevan, Armenia Travel Guide
• Baku, Azerbaijan Travel Guide

Where I went in the Caucasus

I spent almost four weeks in Georgia, Azerbaijan, and Armenia. I spent plenty of time in Tbilisi doing the digital nomad thing but I absolutely loved the rest of the country. I spent just under two weeks traveling through the country which I think was enough. I did my trip via rental car which is definitely the fastest way to see the country (and my preferred). The countryside of Georgia is absolutely stunning and worth a road trip.

These are some of the highlights of my trip to Georgia:

Katskhi Pillar

• Promethius Caves

Vardzia Caves

• Svaneti Region (Mestia and Ushguli)
• Kakheti Wine region
• Kazbegi Mountain Range (Gergeti Church, Stepantsminda town) via Georgian Military Road
• Khor Virab, Noravank, Zvartos Cathedrals
• Gobustan National Park

If these places sound like places you want to visit, then this is the itinerary for you! There are not many small cute towns to speak of in Georgia, Armenia, or Azerbaijan.. It’s not like other European countries where small villages tend to be surprising highlights. Aside from the main capital cities, you aren’t really going on this trip to visit cute villages.

What to know about the Caucasus

The Caucasus are a collection of small countries but they pack in so much. There is an incredible amount of diversity in the landscapes as well as the culture.

Food in Delicious

My oh my, the food in the area is fantastic. This is one of the main reasons I travel and you won’t go hungry in this part of the world.

Khinkali is the national dish of Georgia and it is essentially a soup dumpling. How soup dumplings made it to just this country in this part of the world is one of the fascinating things about history and culture. My theory is that it was brought over from China by the Mongol empire which controlled these lands centuries ago.

Khatchapuri is another very popular dish in Georgia that you must try. Being the gateway between east and west meant you had all the influences of Middle Eastern civilizations which means you can expect delicious grilled meats. Soups, stews, and various other dishes mean you will not go hungry at any point in time.

In Armenia and Azerbaijan, it’s all about the grilled meats and kebabs. Lamb is the meat of choice in these countries and eating it with lavash and fresh herbs is one of my favorite things to do. The food is quite similar in the two countries with influences from Turkey, Iran, and Central Asia.

You need a E-Visa to enter Azerbaijan

For some reason, I just had blindly assumed I didn’t need a visa to enter any of the three countries. It wasn’t until just a few days before I was scheduled to enter Azerbaijan that I realized I needed a visa to enter! Yes you need to apply for an e-visa before arrival on their website. 

The process is quite easy but every Western country needs to apply and pay for this visa before arrival! The price is  $20  but you’ll need to apply about 1 week in advance to get this price. If you’re like me who waited until the last minute, you’ll need to pay an additional $30 for a total of $50!

Traveling between Armenia and Azerbaijan

This section can probably take up its own post but I will just sum it up in this section. Armenia and Azerbaijan have  no relations with each other. They’ve been in constant conflict over a disputed autonomous territory called Nagorno-Karabakh and just had an actual war in 2020. The war has since subsided but relations remain completely frozen. Unfortunately, this will probably be the case for the near and long term future. I write this post in 2022 but I guarantee in 2032, it will still be the same.

Travel through Georgia

So how do you travel Armenia and Azerbaijan? The only way to travel between these two countries is  through Georgia . Georgia is “friendly” with both countries and remains the only viable way to travel between these countries. Therefore, it does make more sense to start in Armenia or Azerbaijan and working your way through the Caucasus (Armenia to Georgia to Azerbaijan).

However, I started my trip in Georgia because that’s where they had cheap flights (into Tbilisi). After traveling through Georgia, I took an overnight train to Yerevan (more on that later). I then took a flight back to Tbilisi, spent the night in Tbilisi, and took a flight to Baku the following morning. There is also an overnight train from Tbilisi to Baku but the land borders were closed when I was there due to COVID.

Are passport stamps an issue?

Another commonly asked question is whether having a passport stamp of one of these two countries affects entry into the other. The simple answer is  no.  Having an Armenian stamp in your passport will not affect your ability to visit Azerbaijan and vice versa. This is like visiting Lebanon where if you have an Israeli stamp, you are banned no questions asked.

I have two passports and ended up using one passport to enter Armenia and the other to enter Azerbaijan which 100% reduced any suspicions. However, I met other travelers that only had one passport and they were able to enter both countries without issue. You might get more questions asked by immigration authorities but it is not against the rules in any way.

The one exception is if you’ve been to the disputed territory of Nagorno-Karabakh. If you’ve somehow been able to enter this territory, you cannot visit Azerbaijan  ever. You’re forever banned.

Planning a Caucasus Road Trip

Now that you know Georgia is a small country with incredible diversity of sights and sounds, it’s time to decide how you want to plan your trip. First thing is first, how much time do you have to allocate to this wonderful country?

If the answer is one to two weeks, then you’ll need to plan your attack accordingly.

Georgia is the bulk of this trip

The Caucasus is three countries I know but not all are created equally as far as sights go. I think most travelers would agree with me that Georgia is the country that offers the most as far as beautiful sights go. There is just a much wider array of landscapes, cities, and sights to see in Georgia. That’s why I spent most of my time in Georgia.

For this itinerary, I spent almost two weeks in Georgia (actually about 3.5 weeks since I stayed awhile in Tbilisi enjoying the digital nomad scene), and about 8 days between Armenia and Azerbaijan. I probably missed a lot of things in Armenia and Azerbaijan but unless you have over a month, you’ll have to make compromises anyhow!

Buy a mobile sim card

If you’re planning to spend some time in Georgia and/or doing a longer trip, I would highly recommend buying a sim card. I spent almost a month in Georgia and I experimented with all of the mobile providers in Georgia.

Magti and Beeline are the only ones you should bother considering. Magti is the best service and it is  incredibly cheap . Seriously for 1 week, I paid 5 GEL for unlimited data. That is not even $1.50 for a weeks worth of unlimited data. If you’re traveling for two weeks, you’re paying 10 GEL!

This will be incredibly hand for you especially when traveling to lesser developed parts in the mountains. The service in the country is generally quite good and the speeds are very fast.

I wrote about Georgian mobile sim providers in detail here.

Rent a car or travel by public transport?

The Caucasus is not a big area so it’s very easy and totally doable to do this trip entirely by public transportation. However, you’ll probably need more than three weeks to do everything on this list.

For my itinerary, I rented a car in Georgia and it is definitely the best way to explore the more remote parts of the country.

The cost of renting a car in Georgia is about $25-$30 a day with all insurance included. If you are a solo traveler or don’t want to spend this much, don’t worry, the country is well connected by buses as well as Marshrutka, group van transfers used by locals. I only took a Marshrutka one time which was for a day trip between Tbilisi and Mtshketa on my day trip.

I highly recommend  parent.ge  for your car rental. I had a great experience with them and they even delivered the car to my Airbnb the morning I wanted to leave.

In Armenia and Azerbaijan, I mostly stayed around Yerevan and Baku and just organized day trips to the surrounding sights.

How are the roads in Georgia?

The roads in Georgia are generally quite good. The main highways used to connect Tbilisi, Kutaisi, and Batumi on the Black Sea are good roads but nothing to write home about. Certainly nothing like the ultra modern roads I saw while traveling Kosovo . As you venture into more remote places like the Svaneti mountain region, the roads become smaller and generally less developed.

However, I’ve driven on much worse roads like those in Albania heading to North Macedonia . I think overall, the roads in Georgia are in good condition and perfect for a road trip.

Note that if you travel in the winter, snow can sometimes block entrance into the mountain towns like Mestia or Ushguli.

How much do things cost in Caucasus?

Georgia is one of the cheapest countries you’ll visit. It’s a western country with first world amenities at a fraction of the price. You can get high quality meals and wine here for a very fair price.

Khinkali are the national dish and one large khinkali dumpling is 1 GEL (~$0.30). My dinners always amounted to something between $10-15 which included wine, a large meal and maybe even a started. Accommodations are also quite affordable. Airbnbs and boutique hotels in Tbilisi can be easily had for under $50 a night, with prices even lower the further you’re out in the countryside.

Armenia is just as cheap as Georgia with prices for food, taxis, and accommodations very comparable. Azerbaijan is yet also very similar to the other two countries. Baku, however, looks more like Dubai than Tbilisi or Yerevan which makes it really flabbergasting how it can be so cheap. But it is!

Full Caucasus Travel Itinerary

The trip starts off in Tbilisi, the wonderful capital city of Georgia. Tbilisi has loads to offer from beautiful historical sights, bathhouses, museums, top quality restaurants and bars, and much more. It’s definitely a city you can spend an extended amount of time in.

From Tbilisi, I drive to Kutaisi which has various sights around the town (the town itself is nothing exceptional). From Kutaisi, I drove north to the Svaneti region which is famous for its incredible mountain landscapes. Mestia and Ushguli are the main towns you’ll want to visit here.

From the Svaneti region, I drove towards the coastal capital of Batumi. The contrast between Svaneti and Batumi is absolutely one of the wildest things I’ve ever seen in a day. Batumi is not for everyone but having visited in November during the off season, I actually liked my stay.

From Batumi, the next stop is to drive back east towards to the wine country of Kakheti. Georgian wines are famous worldwide and this is actually the birthplace of wine making. From the wine country, drive north to the Kazbegi mountain region which is another famous mountain region of Georgia. Kazbegi honestly reminds me more of Death Valley than any other mountain range.

From Kazbegi, drive back towards Tbilisi to end the Georgia portion of the trip. From Tbilisi, I took the overnight train to Yerevan, Armenia. You can also take a bus which is actually faster but I wanted the overnight train experience! Yerevan, Armenia’s vibrant capital is a fantastic city with so much to do. I actually liked it slightly better for a short stay vs Tbilisi. From Yerevan, I made day trips to the most famous sights nearby like Noravank, Khor Virab, and others. You don’t need to rent a car here.

From Yerevan, I took a flight back to Tbilisi but only because at the time of visiting, crossing the land border back to Georgia required a PCR test while arriving by airport did not. So it was relatively the same price but much faster by taking air. I spent a night in Tbilisi before flying to Baku the following day.

Baku, Azerbaijan’s capital is a city of complete contrast. Old, new, and very new are on full display in the city and it feels like you’re on a different planet compared with Georgia and Armenia. This is what happens when you discover mass oil wealth in such short time! From Baku, I took day trips to the famous Gobustan National Park famous for its petroglyphs and the mud volcanoes. All in all, I only spent 4 days in Azerbaijan.

Day 1-3: Tbilisi City

Tbilisi, Georgia’s vibrant capital city is where the trip starts. It’s easy to write off Tbilisi in favor of visiting Georgia’s wild country landscape but that is a mistake. There is so much to see and do in Tbilisi that you could easily spend way more than 3 days. I spent over a week in the capital city to do the digital nomad thing as it has quickly become the digital nomad hotspot in Europe.

It is also the culinary capital of Georgia. Whether you’re looking to try the best khinkali in Georgia , or eat delicious grilled meats, there is something for everyone in Tbilisi.

There’s a lot to see in Tbilisi. The capital city has seen numerous empires move through over the centuries leaving its mark. Tbilisi is not a “beautiful” city by European standards. You won’t see huge museums or cathedrals but I find it breathtaking for its views and history. I will touch on the highlights of Tbilisi, but make sure to read my detailed Tbilisi guide to understand everything the city has to offer including the best places to eat and drink!

Free Walking Tour

As with any city, I always love to do the free walking tour when I get in just so I’m familiar with what’s around me. The free walking tour in Tbilisi meets in the Freedom Square every day at noon.

The tour walks primarily around the old town with the guide giving you insider details on things you would never know about otherwise. The tour gave me a good base and understanding of the history of Tbilisi. Personally I found it very fascinating that the Georgian language is completely unrelated to any other family of languages and spoken by no one else. The alphabet looks like a cave painting and is also not utilized anywhere else in the world, not even Armenia to the south. This reminds me of my trip to the Baltic states where it was a similar situation with Lithuanian and Latvian.

We visited a variety of different sights around the old town ending in the sulfur baths area. I highly recommend this tour when you arrive.

Sulfur Baths

Sulfur baths are one of the must visit highlights of Tbilis. The legend tells that the baths are connected with the foundation of Tbilisi. According to the myth, in the second half of 5th century the king of Georgia found the thermal springs. He was impressed with the sulphur hot springs and ordered to build the baths and a city around them. The city was named Tbilisi that means “warm”.

The water in the baths comes from mineral sulphur springs which are hot, from 37 to 50 degrees. All the baths are situated below the ground level. The architecture of the houses is traditional Persian, each bathhouse has its own style and features.

I went to the Chreli Abano sulfur baths (there are numerous houses/companies) which is famous for its beautiful blue marble facade. I spent one hour in a room with a hot and cold bath. The smell of the sulfur is initially quite pungent but you get used to it quickly. The water is very refreshing and you can even feel how soft your skin is after a session.

I think one hour is plenty of time to experience it but two hours is better if you want to really relax and get into it. The cost for the specific room I booked was 150 GEL per hour. The smaller rooms are cheaper starting at 70 GEL. The rooms are entirely private and you can order drinks or tea to your room from the front desk.

Holy Trinity Church

Without a doubt, a visit to the Holy Trinity church of Tbilisi is a must. This Orthodox church is the biggest in Georgia and definitely one of the largest Orthodox churches I’ve ever seen. This church is actually one of the newest churches built of such statue.

The church started construction after the fall of the Soviet Union as a way for Georgia to commemorate their Christian traditions. It was only completed in 2004 and is now visible from almost everywhere in the city. The church is almost 100 meters high and upon first glance, it towers in comparison to the other many churches in the city.

Entrance inside is free and while enormous, it is not that impressive compared to say the church in Mtskheta. The detailing inside is not as pronounced which makes sense given that it is a new church. Nevertheless, it is a must visit attraction!

This is just a fraction of the things to see in Tbilisi. Make sure to read my Tbilisi city guide for the whole coverage!

Day 4-5: Kutaisi

From Tbilisi, the first stop on this trip is to towards Kutaisi, the second largest city in Georgia. This road is on the main highway of Georgia and the drive is 3 hours or so.

There are a few stops to make along the way before getting to Kutaisi which is perfect if you start this drive in the morning.

Gori Town, birthplace of Stalin

Since I already visited Mtksheta as a day trip from Tbilisi, the first stop is to the town of Gori, about 1.5h from Tbilisi. Gori is the birthplace of Joseph Stalin, the famous Communist dictator of the USSR. Yes that one! I never knew the guy was Georgian until this moment!

There isn’t much to do in Gori as it’s just a small local town. It’s not so pretty so you don’t need much time here. The only thing you do need to do here is to visit the Joseph Stalin museum.

This museum is essentially a shrine to the late ruler of the USSR. It talks about his early history in Georgia where he attended school in Tbilisi before venturing further into Russia.

I would recommend having lunch in Gori before venturing further. The next stop is the famous Katskhi pillar. This natural limestone column stands tall and alone overlooking the valley of Katskhura. The pillar was only first climed and surveyed by researchers in 1944 and then studied more closely only in the last few decades. The studies conculded that there was an early medieval hermitage dating from the 9th or 10th century BC.

This 40 meter column has a monastery on top that was only built in 2009. While it is active, it’s nowhere near as historic as the limestone columns of Meteora in Northern Greece . The Katskhi pillar reminds me a lot of the incredibly dramatic landscape of Meteora . However, you cannot visit the top of this pillar unlike the monasteries all throughout Meteora.

The Vardzia cave complex in south western Georgia is the largest and most impressive of the ancient cave towns in Georgia. Construction first began in the 12th century and continued to expand under Queen Tamar into one of the largest cave cities in the region. At its peak it was home to up to 50, 000 people within its 6000 rooms and for many years it was safe from impending Mongol attacks.

The caves are open every day from 10am to 7pm and costs 7 Lari for the entrance.

It takes roughly 4 hours driving from Kutaisi to reach the caves in the very south of the country. The roads are okay but very windy so you don’t cover much distance with your speeds. You only really need about 1-2 hours to see the caves themselves so you can feasibly complete the day trip without much trouble.

Leave around 8am, arrive at noon to the caves. Have lunch in the nearby cafes and then visit the caves for 1-2 hours. Drive back around 14:00 and then be back in Kutaisi for dinner.

For the most part, you are free to roam through the tunnels and in the caves. The Church is one of the places you’ll come across at the beginning and then you can make your way through the place at your leisure. At the other side of the complex, you’ll find a tunnel that leads to the bottom and loops back to the entrance and ticket office.

Day 6-8: Svaneti Mountain Range

From Kutaisi, your next destination is the famous Svaneti mountains. This was probably my favorite part of the entire trip. The Svan region of Georgia is famous for its natural beauty. The mountains, lush landscapes, and towns transport you back in time.

The drive is roughly 5 hours from Kutaisi to the town of Mestia which I chose as my base for exploring the nearby sights.

Prometheus Caves

Along the way to Mestia you’ll find the famous Prometheus Caves. These natural limestone caves were discovered in the 1980s and turned into a tourist attraction only recently. The caves are 11km long and 40 meters below sea level. 1.6km of caves are open to tourists.

They are quite impressive with some very unique formations. However, having just been to the Jaita Grotto in Lebanon a few months earlier, it was not as impressive. Nevertheless, the guided tour (done in English and Russian at the same time) was 25 Lari and worth a short stop to break up the drive to Mestia.

Svan Towers

The Svan towers are the symbol of the Svaneti region. These large rectangular brick structures can be seen everywhere in the region. These iconic stone structures were used in medieval times as defense structures against enemy invaders. Each family had at least one of these in their land as fighting and feuds between the tribes were incredibly common. They were also used sentry posts and fires would be lit to inform of impeding dangers.

These towers all look relatively the same. They are about 25m high and 5x5m around. Most of the surviving Svan towers are located around Mestia and Ushguli. They are no longer used for any purpose (even storage) but are kept to honor the history of the people. The youngest tower is over 200 years which makes the fact that they stand so proud after so long an impressive feat!

Drive slowly in the winter months!!!

The roads leading up to the Svan region are windy and ice down very easily during the colder months. Ice forms quite easily and there are not many ice crews working these roads to speak of.

Do not be like me who was driving too fast along a curve and ended up completely crashing my car into the side. I was unharmed but it was quite the scary experience.

Thankfully, the experience with the police and rental car was quite good and I was on my way towards my next destination within a few hours. Everyone that passed also stopped and helped me out even though no one spoke any English. It was quite endearing to see!

Mestia is the main town in the Svaneti region. Don’t expect a big place however. The main road is only 1-2km. Alternatively, don’t expect much in terms of a picturesque cute mountain village. The buildings are mostly built for functional puroses and nothing is too old.

Nevertheless, the town has a handful of restaurants and bars that will keep you entertained as you use it as a base to explore the Svan region. For restaurants, I recommend going to  Cafe Laila  and  Sunseti restaurant and bar. These restaurants serve traditional Georgian dishes as well as typical Svan dishes.

For Svan dishes, make sure to try the kubdari which is a pie stuffed with meat, onions, and spices. It’s quite tasty and immensely filling. One kubdari is probably enough for two people and you won’t have much appetite for anything else. Nevertheless, it is the national dish of the Svans so a must try.

Drive to Ushguli for the day

Ushguli is without a doubt the crown jewel of the Svaneti region. The famous pictures of the mountain town with the rolling hills and rocky mountain peaks in the distance is from Ushguli.

Most people come here as a day trip from Mestia. You can either join a day tour from Mestia, or catch a Mashruka from the town. The ride is about 2 hours one way through less than desirable roads.

If you’re driving a car, I would definitely recommend taking a 4×4, especially if you’re not traveling in the warm summer months. The roads are very bad especially the last 10km of the journey. In fact, there really is no paved road to speak of in the last 10km. Just take a look at these photos of the place!

Once you do get to the town however, you knew it was worth it. The views are nothing short of breathtaking. You feel like you’re on the edge of the world. The town of Ushguli feels like you’ve stepped back in time. There are no roads here like there are in Mestia and it makes you wonder how people survive here (especially in winter).

There is a lot of hiking to be done here including the hike to the famous Shkara Glacier. However, if you’ve seen any other glaciers in the world like in Patagonia, Iceland , or Canada, then this is not really worth it. There may have been a legit glacier here many years ago, but climate change has definitely changed it completely.

Make sure to have lunch at Cafe Koshki with their perfect views of the town and mountains. For even better views, go up to Queen Tamar Castle which has the most iconic views of the valley.

Day 8-9: Batumi and the Black Sea

The following day is a long drive from the Svaneti region to the Black Sea coast of Georgia. This drive is long and takes about 5h or so. You’re essentially backtracking your way through Zugdidi (which is a good lunch stop) before heading on to Batumi.

The contrasts in Georgia are never more stark

Before I talk about Batumi, I need to just say how  incredible  and how  stark the contrasts are on this day. Driving from Mestia to Batumi literally feels like you traversed countries, time, and planet in the same day. Literally having just been through the Svaneti region where people still live the old ways and paved roads are not a concept in many villages, Batumi couldn’t be any more different.

Batumi is   widely viewed as the  Las Vegas of the Caucusas.  As soon as you drive toward Batumi, you’ll see the incredible huge skyscrapers, the giant ferris wheel, and the unusual but futuristic looking buildings that dot the skyline. Batumi is ultra developed and you feel like you’ve stepped forward in time a century. If you arrive at night, you’ll notice even more of a contrast given how bright and lit up the city is.

Batumi is the main coastal city of Georgia

Batumi is not everyone’s cup of tea and that’s understandable. This place attracts huge crowds from around the Caucusus, Russia, and other former Soviet states. In the summer time, it gets very packed and everyone who wants to be seen does it up here. I’m talking old rich Russian dudes with the gold chain and the hot, young, model girlfriend. Then you have all the Instagram partygoers trying to influence their way to the top.

I visited Batumi in November where the temperatures were still warm, but nowhere near the summer vibes that it normally is known for. This also meant the crowds were a fraction of the summer which I liked. To be honest, I actually liked staying in Batumi for a few days. Having an sea escape is refreshing, even though I don’t find the Black Sea particularly beautiful. Knowing that the Bulgarian coast (which I spent a lot of time traveling) is on the other side is also quite cool.

To be honest, I just liked walking around the town soaking in the crazy contrast between these ultra futuristic and modern buildings, as well as old Gothic style architecture.

What to see in Batumi

There isn’t much to “See” in Batumi. To be honest, the city is quite new and was a big project that started during Soviet times to make this the Vegas of the Black Sea. While Batumi has a storied history that dates back centuries, most of the buildings in the city are built in the last few decades. Even the old and beautiful “European style” buildings are built new.

However, there are a few things to do in this city:

Visit the Batumi Tower: This tower is probably the most recognizable tower in the city. It’s the highest building and has a golden ferris wheel sticking out the side of it near the top of the building. Not a joke. It doesn’t run as far as I know.

Georgian Alphabet Building: This building is near to the Batumi Tower and is a giant skeletal style building with the Georgian alphabet written in huge letters encircling it.

Cha cha tower: Nearby as well is the chacha tower located in its own park. Chacha for those that don’t know is the local brandy spirit of Georgia, similar to that of Rakja in the Balkans. This building’s purpose was originally to provide for one hour every week a chacha water fountain serving chacha to everyone. No joke. Sadly, this never happened and now it’s just a strange monument in the center of the city.

Where to eat and drink in Batumi

Batumi is a big city so there is no shortage of places to eat and drink. There are plenty of high quality restaurants and the prices are still very affordable.

Batumi is the birthplace of the Ajarulian Khatchapuri.  Yes, if you’re a khatchapuri fan (how can one not be?), this is the homeland of the Ajarulian style which is by far the most well known style of khatchapuri around the world. The big boat like bread bowls with cheese with an egg on the top is the specialty in Batumi. Mix it all up and you have a delicious hot cheese and egg dip with the fluffiest bread straight out of the oven.

360 Sky Bar:  Amazing views and best place to watch the sunset.

Chacha time:  Great cocktail bar that specializes in cocktails from Chacha (and other stuff)

Fish Market:  Local fish market where you can buy fish straight from the market and bring it to a nearby restaurant for them to grill up.

Stay at the Kartuli Boutique Hotel

There are endless places to stay in Batumi. From the ultra luxury to the most budget hostel. I decided to stay in the Kartuli Boutique Hotel which is located on the 37th and 38th floor of a modern highrise building. This hotel, especially for the price was absolutely amazing. Every room has a balcony and views of the ocean. The common space is very industrial chic and there’s plenty of coworking space for those that value this.

They even provided me with a free e-scooter to explore the city! This is only available in the winter months but it was a great way to see everything.

Day 10-12: Kakheti Wine Region

Next up after Batumi is the beautiful and famous wine region of Georgia. The drive is a long one from Batumi to Kakheti (roughly 7 hours) so you’ll want to start this drive early.

I could spend much more than 2-3 days in the wine region of Georgia but this was unfortunately all the time I had. It’s not stupid beautiful like the wine regions of Tuscany or Cape Town , but Georgia’s wine region is unique in its own way.

Georgia is the birthplace of wine

The area in the Caucasus including Georgia and Armenia is in fact the birthplace of wine. There are records showing wine was made in these parts some 8000 years ago. I had always heard from the countless wine regions I’ve been to that they were the oldest, but in fact it is the Caucasus region that holds the crown.

Wine is a way of life in Georgia and you can’t go to any restaurants without seeing delicious reds made with saparavi grapes.

Learn how Qvevri wine is made

Traditional Georgian wine is made in a Qvevri. This is an egg shaped vessel meant for storing, aging, and making the wine. This process dates back thousands of years and it is still a common method to make wine in villages today.

Wine Tasting and Cellar Tour

No matter the various options and things to do in Kakheti, you simply cannot leave without going on a wine tasting and cellar tour.

Crushed grapes with skin and seeds are fermented underground in an earthen vessel for 5 to 6 months before the wine is ready to drink.

Day one in Kakheti surely has to be spent sampling wine and learning about the traditional winemaking process which is passed on by generations and is a vital part of Georgia’s history (and now their economy).

Day Trip to Sighnaghi

A gem of the Kakheti region is the lovely city of love – Sighnaghi. With its cobbled paths and pastel-colored houses perched on a hill, Sighnaghi attracts a lot of day tourists.

There are many things to do in Sighnaghi. You can visit the Bobde monastery, eat at Pheasant’s tears, walk on/ along the city walks, check out the cathedrals, and more. Sighnaghi is definitely the most picturesque village in Georgia. I thought there would be a lot of historic and picturesque villages in Georgia but that is not the case. I didn’t see any village that I thought was pretty until I came to Signaghi. This is where you can get your fix of Georgian architecture at its finest!

Day 12-13: Kazbegi Mountain Range

The Kazbegi mountain range is the last and final stop in the road trip through Georgia. From the Kakheti wine region, it is a roughly 4 hour drive to your last destination in the town of Stepantsminda.

The road along the “Georgian Military Highway” is quite scenic and with a few stops you’ll wan tto see along the way.

Gergeti Holy Trinity

One of the most iconic sights of Georgia is without a doubt the Gergeti Monastery. Perched up high in the Kazbegi mountains, this old monastery from the 14th century stands stunningly alone. It offers views of the nearby mountains and the towns of Gergeti and Stepantsminda down below.

This monastery stopped having church services during Soviet times but always remained a popular tourist attraction because of its natural beauty. From the town of Stepantsminda, there are endless taxis willing to take you up to the church for a price. Otherwise, if you’re driving, it is an easy road up. During the winter months, the roads can be very icy so drive carefully!

The church absolutely photographs beautifully and I particularly loved photographing it from the parking lot getting the mountains in the background. It’s just an amazing place.

Stay at the Rooms Kazbegi Hotel

The best hotel in all of Kazbegi is without a doubt at the Rooms Kazbegi Hotel. This upscale hotel has many comfortable hotel rooms with balconies facing the mountains and the Gergeti monastery. The hotel itself offers a huge outdoor terrace, large swimming pool, sauna, gym, and the likes.

The hotel always has an amazing restaruant that serves a killer breakfast. I visited in November and most of all the restaurants in town were closed so I ended up eating here the entire time. I absoluteyl loved the food and had no troubles eating all my meals here.

Day 14: Overnight train from Tbilisi to Yerevan

At long last, the itinerary for Georgia is completely. From Stepantsminda, the drive back to the Tbilisi airport is about 3.5 hours. There isn’t much to see along the way that you haven’t already seen. I had lunch back in Tbilisi and waited it out at a cafe before my night train to Yerevan at 20:20.

What to know about the Tbilisi to Yerevan Train

I took the overnight train to Yerevan from Tbilisi city. This train ride was highly talked upon and I really enjoyed it. The trains have actually been upgraded in recent years and is nothing like the former soviet trains that ran here. It’s certainly nothing like my train experience from Belgrade to Bar Montenegro .

The trains leave every day at 20:20 from the Tbilisi train station. It arrives in Yerevan at around 7am in the morning. There is  no food or water sold on this train whatsoever so make sure to buy everything before hand.

There are three classes you can book: private rooms (for two people), 2nd class (4 people to a room), and economy which is bunk beds shared with more people. I booked a first class private room and there was no one else in the room with me which was great. I paid 170 GEL one way for this ticket. The economy ticket was much cheaper at 100 GEL.

Note, that you can  only book tickets at the train station . You cannot book tickets online for international train travel unfortunately. You can either book the ticket at the Tbilisi train station beforehand, or at the Batumi train station beforehand.

Day 15-18: Yerevan and surrounding sights

Yerevan, the capital city of Armenia is often overshadowed by the more touristy Georgian capital of Tbilisi to the north. However, after spending a week in Tbilisi, I must say that I really loved Yerevan. Yerevan is totally underrated as a city and there is so much energy and vibe in this town.

It’s a very historic city being one of the oldest continually inhabited cities of the world. Situated along the Hrazdan River, Yerevan is the administrative, cultural, and industrial center of the country. Yerevan saw huge development and expansion in the 20th century as Armenia came under Soviet rule. Nowadays, it is a vibrant city with plenty of restaurants, bars, nightlife and more.

I will list a few of the highlights of the city but make sure to read my detailed Yerevan city guide to get the full picture like a list of all the restaurants I went to. I found Armenian food to be even better than Georgia!

Cascade Monument

The Cascade monument is without a doubt the most popular and well known tourist attraction in Yerevan. It’s located near the northern edge of the city center and you can’t miss it.

It is a huge pyramid like structure with almost 600 steps that is adorned with numerous modern art sculptures. The monument was built during Soviet times as a way to commemorate the Armenian allegiance to the Soviet Union. The monument never finished due to corruption as the stairs were supposed to extend all the way up to the victory monument.

After the fall of the Soviet Union, more money and work was put into completing the monument as it was such a integral part of the Yerevan skyline. Numerous art galleries, sculptures, and gardens were added to the mix. Nowadays, it’s an incredibly popular attraction in Yerevan with tourists and locals walking its steps soaking in the views.

During nice days, you can see Yerevan with Mount Ararat in the background. I think this would be absolutely stunning but sadly, I couldn’t see the mountains due to intense smog when I visited.

Free walking Tour

The free walking tours in cities are some of my favorite activities. I love to do these tours when I arrive just so I can get acquainted with the city. Then I can plan where I want to return to as I have a better understanding of the city.

The free walking tour in Yerevan is every day at 2pm and meets at the Republic Square. The guide was quite informative talking about the history of the Yerevan. He also went into detail about the modern day conflicts between Armenia and Azerbaijan, as well as the lack of relations between Turkey. I found the modern day things much more interesting as it relates to how we live our lives now and totally more relatable.

Visit the Armenian Genocide Museum

The Armenian genocide museum is one of those things that you have to visit no matter what you like doing. Similar to the genocide memorial in Kigali , this museum is dedicated to the Armenian genocide at the hands of the Ottoman empire.

The Armenian genocide is probably one of the least known genocides in rent history. Nationalist movements in the Balkans saw them successfully overthrow the Ottomans at the turn of the 20th century. This led to the Ottomans fearing the Armenians would have a similar uprising as the Ottoman empire was pretty much near its end. Before anything could actually happen, the Turks forced millions of Armenian women and children to walk through the Syrian desert without food or water ensuring their deaths. 1.5m Armenians were massacred in 1915 at the hands of the Ottoman empire.

Nowadays, Turkey and Azerbaijan still vehemently deny this genocide attributing it to just standard conflicts of that era. 30+ countries around the world recognize it as a genocide with the rest of the world just taking a neutral stance.

The memorial itself is very impressive. As you enter, you’ll see there is a pine tree forest. Each tree was planted by dignitaries of countries that recognized the genocide. The larger trees mean they were planted many years ago with the smaller trees indicating it was recently planted (and hence more recently acknowledged).

April 24 is national genocide day. If you’re in Yerevan around this period, definitely consider visiting the memorial and paying tribute to the lives lost.

Otherwise, the memorial is open 365 days of the year and open to the public. The museum itself is open Tuesday to Sunday and admission is free. You can hire an English speaking guide for 5000 AMD.

Noravank Monastery

The next stop on the day trip to Armenia’s countryside is the famous Noravank monastery. This is probably the most stunning and beautiful church in the entire country. It is in fact, one of the most beautiful monasteries I’ve seen anywhere in the world.

It’s located high up in the mountains enclosed by red rock cliffs. The setting is absolutely stunning reminding me of the American southwest.

This monastery was built in the 13th century and became one of the largest religious institutes in Armenia. There are two churches here, the first being built in 1216 named St John the Baptist. The second church was built in 1275 and named Surb Grigor Church.

You can take some amazing photos both in front of the churches and from afar. I especially loved the Grigor chuch which has these narrow steps leading up to the chapel.

Day 19: Tbilisi in Transit

This day is entirely dedicated for transit. I took a flight back from Yerevan to Tbilisi since crossing land borders into Gerogia required a PCR test when I visited.

Flight from Yerevan to Tbilisi

The flights from Yerevan to Tbilisi run every day on Armenia Aircompany and cost around $85 one way. This flight is less than 1 hour and you might even get a very amazing view of Mount Ararat. The price was reasonable especially after factoring in the price of a PCR test to go by land.

Upon landing, I took a taxi straight to my boutique hotel in Tbilisi to have dinner and sleep before my flight the following day to Azerbaijan. 

Flight from Tbilisi to Baku

The following day, I took the flight from Tbilisi to Baku on Buta Airways. This flight was more expensive at roughly $120. However, there was no other way to get there as the land borders were completely closed during my visit.

Normally, there are night trains from Tbilisi to Baku just like the one from Tbilisi to Yerevan. So if you don’t want to spend this money, then definitely book the night train. It is much longer than the Yerevan train as the distance traveled is greater (roughly 12-13 hours).

Day 20-24: Baku, Azerbaijan and surrounding sights

I think the best way to describe Baku is that it is the ultimate city of juxtapositions. It’s the city with the ultimate contrast between old and new, one I’ve never seen before. It’s the perfect example of what discovering massive oil wealth can do for a country.

Azerbaijan discovered oil at the end of the 19th century and quickly became one of the most influential countries of its time. In fact, near the turn of the century, Azerbaijan produced 50% of the world’s oil. Yes 50%! Nowadays, it accounts for under 1% but it goes to show just how revolutionary it was when Azerbaijan discovered oil.

With this newfound wealth, the country rapidly expanded outside the old city walls. They built magnificent parks, buildings, monuments, hotels all in the traditional European style. They literally had oil barons that would vacation in countries like Italy or France, see something they liked, and then proceed to replicate it back at home.

As you walk around Baku, you can’t help but be mesmerized by the fact that this city which had nothing 100+ years ago, all of a sudden looks like it could Vienna or Rome. It literally went from 0 to 100 in the span of a few years. Nowadays, as you walk through the streets of Baku, you’ll notice how impeccable and immaculate the conditions of the roads are. It is super clean to the point that it just looks almost fake.

It’s like Dubai which was also built in the last few decades but with a much larger emphasis on the traditional European architecture (and a fraction of the cost of things in Dubai).

Having just visited Yerevan, Armenia and Tbilisi in Georgia which were “normal” capital cities filled with big city grit, post soviet charm (if you can even call it that), Baku really just blew my mind. I couldn’t stop asking myself how this Caucasus country bordering Armenia and Georgia looks like it is from a different world. But that’s what oil wealth does for you!

Take the free walking tour

The free walking tour is definitely a great way to familiarize yourself with the city. The tour meets just outside the old city walls every day in the summer (and on demand during off season months). I really enjoyed the tour as the guide explained a lot about this city that is so perplexing especially having visited Tbilisi and Yerevan prior.

I particularly liked getting the guide’s views on the Armenia-Azerbaijan conflict as I had gotten a very biased version days before with my guide in Yerevan. The tour takes roughly 3 hours and mostly centers around the old city.

Visit the Heyder Aliyev Cultural center

Designed by the noted architect Zaha Hadid, the building is firm and stunning and one of the signature attractions in Baku. The outer area and park offers a beautiful view of the city. It is recommended to visit the centre before sunset so you can experience both the pre- and post-sunset view of the building.

Walk along the waterfront and enjoy views of the flame tower

Visit the Baku Old City

Designated as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, the ancient city dates back to the 12th century. Within its confines are enough touristy gems, such as the Maiden Tower, Juma Mosque, Hamam Mehellesi public baths and the Palace of Shirvanshahs.

The old city is incredibly well preserved and you’ll find beautiful displays of the traditional architectural styles of Azerbaijan. You’ll find iconic narrow streets that meander from one beautiful view to another. It’s crazy to think that most of Baku was just within the confines of the old city walls just 100 years ago.

I particularly liked the pictures where I could see old town architecture with the flame tower in the background. It just goes to show how unique and how different the city of Baku is. The combination of old and new doesn’t exist like it does in Baku.

Visit the Yanar Dag Flaming Mountain

A must visit sight in Baku is a short drive to the Yanar Dag Flaming Mountain. It’s located about 25km outside of Baku to the northeast. Yanar Dag Flaming Mountain is literally just that, a hill that is on fire . Because of the incredible amount of natural gas and oil in the country, there are some areas of the country that have have fires for decades or even centuries.

Yanar Dag in particular has had their fire burning for 50+ years now. The oil reserves in this part of the mountain mean the fire will burn continuously rain or shine. It’s not as big as I thought it would be but it was still very impressive to see.

Come here right around night time to see the full effect of the fires. Do not book a tour to visit Yanar Dag but simply use Bolt to come here. I paid about 10 Manat one way for the Bolt to Yanar Dag and told him to wait for me. It only takes about 20 minutes to see everything and the drivers are usually happy to wait for you to collect the return fare.

Day By Day Caucasus Itinerary

Here is a day by day breakdown of my trip through the Caucasus. Again, this is simply just how I structured the trip with a rental car. If I didn’t rent a car in Georgia, I would add another 3-4 days to the itinerary for taking the public Mashrutkas. Similarly, I wouldn’t have minded an extra day or two in Armenia!

Day 1: Land in Tbilisi, explore Tbilisi Day 2: Full day in Tbilisi Day 3: Full day in Tbilisi, day trip to Mtskheta Day 4: Drive to Kutaisi, stop at the Katskhi Pillar Day 5: Full day to Vardzia Caves Day 6: Drive to Svaneti region (overnight in Mestia), stop in the Prometheus caves Day 7: Full day to Ushguli and exploring Svaneti region Day 8: Svaneti to Batumi drive, lunch stop in Zugdidi Day 9: Full day in Batumi Day 10: Batumi to Khaketi (Long day of driving) Day 11:  Full day in Khaketi Day 12: Khaketi to Kazbegi (Stepantsminda) Day 13: Full day in Kazbegi Day 14: Return to Tbilisi, overnight train to Yerevan Day 15: Arrive in Yerevan, explore the city Day 16: Full day in Yerevan Day 17: Full day day trip to Noravank and Khor Virab Day 18: Full day in Yerevan Day 19: Fly back to Tbilisi Day 20: Flight to Baku Day 21: Full day in Baku Day 22: Full day in Baku Day 23: Day trip to Gobustan Day 24: Fly home from Baku

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Seasons in Armenia, Georgia and Azerbaijan: an overview for tourists

Located close to the border between Europe and Asia the South Caucasus region meets all four seasons with bright saturated colours, special aroma and flavour. And despite the common opinion that it is better to visit the region in the warm months, when there are lots of juicy fruits and vegetables, most travelers admit that it really does not matter when you will go on a journey, in Armenia, Georgia and Azerbaijan there is always something exclusive and interesting that can be experienced or tried. Below you can explore the unique features of all four seasons in the Caucasus and find out what each of them brings to our country:

Winter begins in Armenia in late November / early December. It does not last long, and the weather is generally mild, not severe, sometimes snowy. In Armenian capital, Yerevan, the average daily temperature in December ranges from +5 to -5 C. Sometimes it snows, and although the snow does not stay for a long, the city plunges into a real winter wonderland. In December, the capital completely changes: everywhere you will feel Christmas atmosphere, the city is decorated with festive lights, and the people are gradually beginning to prepare for the upcoming   holidays . With the onset of winter, the locals prefer to wear warm coats and jackets, hats are not very common, but many people prefer. If you dress warmly, you can stroll through the festive streets of Yerevan, see the central  Republic Square   with its main Christmas tree, visit the colourful Christmas fair on the Northern Avenue, ice skate at the rink near the Opera and Ballet Theatre or participate in city events and concerts. If you get cold, you can warm up in the cosy cafes   and  r estaurants   of Yerevan, which you will meet all the time.

In January, the temperature slightly decreases and it may snow more often. At this time, the country is preparing for one of the most important Christian holidays – Christmas, which is celebrated on the 6th of January. On Christmas Eve many churches held celebratory service, and if you drive out from Yerevan to   Etchmiadzin , the religious centre of all Armenians, you can take part in the main Christmas liturgy of the country.

In February, the temperature in the capital starts rising a little, and by the end of the month, there is already an aroma of approaching spring. Even at this time the weather is unstable, and it may fall and suddenly get colder.

Winter holiday in Armenia is especially exciting in mountainous areas, namely in ski resorts, which offer excellent opportunities for extreme lovers. In contrast to Yerevan, the temperature from December to January in these regions is lower, for example in   Tsakhkadzor   – the most popular ski resort in Armenia, it ranges from +3 to -10 C. From the mid-December it snows a lot, and the snow stays till the end of February. Due to such favourable weather, the whole winter you can enjoy skiing, snowboarding, and sledging.

As you can see, the winter vacation in Armenia is no less attractive than in other seasons. The country has a lot to offer to its guests for an interesting pastime. More detailed and interesting   options for the winter holiday in Armenia   can be found in our previous article, and if you want to spend the New Year holidays here, we recommend our fascinating   New Year Tours .

Spring is a season of love and beauty. From the 1 st  of March, you can feel in the capital the approaching of warm weather, the temperature starts increasing and people pass to less warm clothes. The rainy period starts with an average temperature +10 / +14 C. Considering the weather in Yerevan as a starting point, do not forget that the weather in Armenia will vary from region to region. In March, all begin to prepare for the International Women’s Day, which is celebrated on the 8th of March, the shops begin selling the first spring flowers, among which the most favourite are snowdrops.

With the beginning of April, it is getting warm, the trees blossom and get green. These wonderful spring days when it is getting warm, nature awakes from its long sleep, and everything is blooming, Armenians celebrate the National Day of Maternity (7 April) and congratulate their mothers, grandmothers, sisters and wives and give them beautiful gifts and warm wishes. On this day, the country holds special events, concerts, children’s competitions and exhibitions.

If you will be visiting Armenia between April and May, we recommend going to the most beautiful corners of the country, enjoy the fresh spring air, the warm rays of the Armenian sun, beautiful meadows, which are beginning to be covered with flowers. You can go to the resort town of   Dilijan , travel to the Stepanavan Arboretum, to the Ararat region and enjoy the view of Mount Ararat.

Summer is the perfect time for taking a vacation and going on an unforgettable journey. In this season, Armenia offers a package of interesting tourist attractions: hiking, trekking, climbing, paragliding, beach holidays, tours and more. Please note that the summer starts here since the middle of May. In June, everything is filled with lush green colours, the weather is warm with an average temperature of + 23 / + 26 C. In July it gets really hot especially in the capital, and the average temperature is + 26 / + 35 C, and a peak heat is usually in August.

This time in order to escape from the dry heat of the city, locals go to the countryside where the air is fresher and you can relax in the lap of nature. An excellent option is a holiday at   Lake Sevan   – the pearl of Armenian nature, a trip to the resort town of  Dilijan ,   Jermuk , and   Aghveran .

Summer is also a period of the great variety of bright and juicy   fruits   and berries in Armenia. Counters are bursting with peaches, apricots, plums, apples, raspberries, blackberries and many others.

More detailed interesting  options for summer holidays in Armenia   you can find in one of our previous articles, and also we want to note that our company offers excellent   Summer Tours to Armenia . Summer is also an excellent time to enjoy the   Hiking Tour in Armenia . At this time of the year, we also advise you about making a trip not only in Armenia but also in   Georgia .

The beginning of autumn is the perfect season in Armenia. Nature starts changing its colours, and the extreme heat is replaced by gentle weather. The rains are rare, and every day pleases its residents and guests with sunlight.  Both in the capital and surrounding areas, it is warm, but not hot with an average temperature of + 23 / + 27 C, and it almost never rains during this period. Markets are full of seasonal vegetables and fruits, among which the main place is occupied by delicious Armenian grapes. Grapes in Armenia are incredibly delicious, and there are special sorts from which Armenians make wine. If you want to get acquainted with the winemaking in Armenia you can visit the vibrant wine festival, which takes place annually from 2 to 3 October, in the village of Areni, and is accompanied by a vivid parade of the best winemakers, as well as dancing and singing.

Since mid-October, it is getting gradually colder, cloudy and the weather is rainy with an average temperature of + 19 / + 23 C. But despite this, in October too, you can find a lot of interesting ideas for the holidays. The country organizes another no less bright and cheerful   festivals   during which guests can get acquainted with the culture and traditions of the country. On October 10, in the village of Khachik in Vayots Dzor region, a festival takes place dedicated to the baking of Armenian national sweet – gata. Guests can try different kinds of that tasty national delicacy, learn the secrets of cooking and witness the preparing of the biggest gata in the world. On October 11 it is held a harvest festival, and the second Sunday of the month is widely and colourfully celebrated City Day “Erebuni-Yerevan”.

For those wishing to spend their autumn vacation in Armenia, we offer interesting and rich   Autumn Tours . Autumn is also a great time to enjoy the   Wine Tour in Armenia .

If you haven’t loved winter before visiting Georgia, you will simply fall in love with snow and winter views once and for all. Snowy winter is all around the country with an average temperature of -2/-30C. Of course, the temperature is much lower in the mountains. Rare snows are in Tbilisi so for snow-covered views you’d better visit other cities.

The weather starts getting colder by the end of November. December pleases with moderate cold weather on the plains while the mountainous regions are already enjoying snowy winter. December is first of all New Year eve, all the buzz around the holiday the sweet taste of kozinaki and aroma of tangerines. It is worth to spend days in festive Tbilisi; it is so beautiful when decorated with festive lights.

January is A season for winter activities in the ski resort. Luckily Georgia has a great potential for active sports. Heavy snow and bright weather set up to positive vibes and all you have to do is to enjoy your days in one of the resorts. The options are Gudauri, Bakuriani, and Kazbegi.

Starting from March the spring flair is already felt in the air. The average temperature for the first half of spring is +150C. It is perfect weather to enjoy city walks and tours around historical monuments. Starting from April you can already feel the warm wind on your face. The temperature rises up to +200C yet the weather is still unstable.

May is the wettest month of spring but with the rains, nature fully blooms and regains its beauty. Starting from May all hiking directions in Georgia are now open. Trekking in the mountains is quite comfortable with cool nights and warm days. At last, spring is the time for life. Georgians celebrate Mother’s Day on March 3 and International Women’s Day on the 8th of March. One of the most important holidays of Georgia, Independence Day is celebrated on the 26th of May.

The real fun starts in summer. The temperature rises noticeably already in the first days of June. The average temperature for June and July is about +270C. In Adjara, the Black Sea resort region the temperature is a little higher, just perfect for beach holidays. The temperature reaches its peak for August. The average temperature is +300C and sometimes +350C, water temperature is +250C. In case of heavy showers, they may last for a couple of days.

Summer is the season of all the tastiest fruits, sunkissed skin, colorful dawns by the beach, romantic nights under stars, long night walks and crazy beach parties. If you are a lover of camping and trekking, pack your bag and find an isolated beach in Adjara.

Fall is no less beautiful in Georgia. The first half of September is the Velvet Season in Georgia. The average temperature is +270C. In Tbilisi, it is still hot while for beach holiday it is a wonderful time to enjoy the warm sun without getting burnt. September is the season of grape harvesting, one of the most important holidays in Georgia. It is definitely worth to visit Kakheti, the land of winemaking and take part in traditional harvesting. Plus, you can still go for trekking in the mountains till October.

Starting from the second half of October the weather makes us feel the fall is coming. The temperate is +18/+200C. The nature bursts into multi-colored trees, the cool wind brings the aroma of dried fruits and wine. It is already cold in the mountainous regions with nigh frost and showers. Closer to November, the weather becomes even more unpredictable. A sunny day can be changed into heavy a shower with a cold wind. It already snows in the mountains.

Winter in Azerbaijan is mild with rare snowfalls in Baku and the Caspian Sea coast. In plain lands, winter begins in the second half of December while in the mountains it is already rather cold in November. In December the temperature is above 0C with strong winds.

January is the coldest month with an average temperature of -100C. In the mountains, the temperature may drop up to -200C. In Absheron Peninsula, it may be warmer.

For winter months it is worth visiting new ski resorts The Shahdag and Tufandag. Two resorts are extremely popular among the natives and guests who are looking for comfort and a beautiful view. Modern resorts are equipped with new cable cars, all the hotels offer a high level of service, plus, the slopes are equipped with snow generators to elongate the ski season. Tufantag is a more isolated resort where you can enjoy amazing views of snow-covered mountain ranges. The ski season in both resorts lasts from the end of December to the end of March. 

Spring is definitely the best season to visit Azerbaijan. From the very first days of March, you can feel spring in the air. The temperature slowly rises but the nights are still cold. Starting from April it is getting warmer in the mountains. The average temperature for March and April is +150C. While May is almost summer in Absheron peninsula where the daily temperature may rise about +220C. The last week of the month is already hot.

Besides of pleasant weather, there is another reason to visit Azerbaijan in spring. One of the most important holidays, Novruz Bayramy is celebrated in March. On the 21st day of the spring equinox, the whole nation starts celebrating. Novruz has nothing to do with Islam. The religious holidays of Muslims are Ramadan and Kurban Bayramy. The best part of the holiday is a festive table with the tastiest national dishes, pastries, and sweets.

Azerbaijan enjoys a long and hot summer. Sometimes it is too hot here, so make sure you are protected from the sun. From the very first days of June, the temperature rises up to +270C. In coastal areas, there is a fresh and cool breeze. For July the temperature reaches up to +350C while August is a bit cooler.

The best thing to do in summer is to enjoy beach holidays on the Caspian Sea coast. There are clear and modern beaches not far from Baku so you can easily enjoy your day on the beach and party at night in Baku.

Summer is also a great season to visit Naftalan, the most popular health resort in Azerbaijan. The unique value of the resort is healing oil. By the way, Naftalan is the only source of such kind of healing oil in the world. This natural oil stimulates the functions of all organs and accelerates wound healing. 

The first half of September is as hot in Azerbaijan as in August so you can do any summer activity. For the second half, the temperature drops to +200C and there is no summer heat anymore. In the mountains, it is true autumn with colourful leaves and cool wind.

Rains start from October in the mountains and plains while November brings true cold wind and showers. It is often cloudy and dull in Baku. The first two months of fall are still great for trekking in the plains. Other activities are the celebration of Independence Day on the 18th of October and city tours.

Choose the  Tour to Armenia  you like most and tour-operator Arara will organize your amazing Holiday in Armenia. Travel to Armenia with the local agency.

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10 must visit spots in Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan

Are Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan (known together as Caucasus region ) on your 2023 Travel Wishlist? If the answer is “yes” then most probably you have already heard how versatile and amazing Caucasus is.

Three relatively small countries are nested between Caspian and Black seas on the East and the West, picturesque Caucasus mountain range on the North, and Biblical Ararat mountain on the South. The area boasts one of the largest natural diversity in the world. With gorgeous mountains, miles of vine valleys, magnificent rivers, mythical semi-deserts, and more, Caucasus is the place for repeat exploration.

Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan each are gaining momentum of tourism growth. Georgia is becoming a hot spot for both classic tourism and responsible travelers alike. Armenia strikes with one-of-a-kind architecture. Whilst Azerbaijan is almost like a world-apart within the three. However, be ready to experience unique hospitality, fairytale-like nature, amazing cuisine, and fascinating journey overall – in each of them.

So, if you’re just starting to plan your tour to Caucasus, these places will steer you in the right path:

Baku (Azerbaijan) – Where the East meets the West

Capital of Azerbaijan has been rapidly developing its skyline with some of the worlds most spectacular new architecture. Which counterpoints with Baku’s medieval UNESCO World heritage list members within magnificent Old City – Icheri Sheher. Dedicate a full day tour for Baku, and don’t forget to include “Shekhidler hiyabani”, Rasul-Zade street, Fountain square, Icheri Sheher, Heydar Aliev cultural centre, and an evening walk along Caspian seafront boulevard.

Gobustan (Azerbaijan) – Petroglyphs and mud volcanoes

Gobustan National park, otherwise known as Qobustan Petroglyphs Reserve is a home to UNESCO protected ancient stone engravings dating back to 10 thousand years BC. It is also believed that almost half of the World’s mud volcanoes are in Gobustan. The destination is arguably the most popular day trip from Baku. Being only 60 km away from Azerbaijani capital it takes its visitors to a completely different setting. Gobustan’s landscape and views over Caspian sea are an amazing added bonus to the journey.

Lagich (Azerbaijan) – Medieval atmosphere of a highland village

Lagich mounatain village is a settlement established in the 5 th century. It allows travelers to dive deep into the regions history and medieval atmosphere with narrow stone walkways of its main street. Huseynov street is unevenly paved with smooth river-stones, and follows between houses constructed traditionally with interchanging timber and stone layers. Most of the houses have wooden balconies.

Sighnaghi (Georgia) – City of Love

Sighnaghi is one of the most popular town among tourists in Georgia. It has been recently labeled as ‘City of love’, mostly for the fact that one can register a marriage there 24/7. Previously a Royal residence, Sighnaghi still surrounded by ancient city walls. Cozzy and pretty this small town is definitely a stop to make after arriving in Georgia from Azerbaijan.

Tbilisi (Georgia) – Vibe of the Caucasus  

Georgian capital city Tbilisi for many centuries of its existence was a place where people of all faiths, cultural and national backgrounds used to live together. The fact that made Tbilisi a contemporary metropolis filled with history and atmosphere of rich and great past. Whatever your travel habits, Tbilisi absolutely has anything to offer. One day in Georgian capital is surely not enough, but it will give you an impressions of the entire region – it’s hospitality, people, its past and future.  

Uplistsikhe (Georgia) – Lord’s Fortress

Uplistsikhe is an amazing and formerly large-scale cave town that located almost 100 km away from Tbilisi, Georgian capital, and about 10 km from the town of Gori. From the early years of its existence (approximately 6 th century BC) and up until 1 st century AD Uplistsikhe was one of the main administrative and political centers of Georgia, or Kartli (Iberia) at that time, with worship temples dedicated to Pagan beliefs. Being quite an important location on busy trade routes between Asia and Europe Uplistsikhe cave city was populated by more than 20 thousand people at its most prosperous period.

Zegaani (Georgia) – The gem of the valley

According to Orthodox Christian teaching, dense forest symbolizes serenity, peace of mind and solitude. Zegaani Monastery, deep in the woods near the village of Zegaani is a calm, fairy-tale-like place, where ancient churches beautifully blend into nature. The first building constructed at the monastery, St. Marina’s Church, dates to the 5th century. Thus, it is one of the first Christian buildings in Georgia. Visit to Zegaani monastery will surely be one of a lifetime memories.

Lake Sevan (Armenia) – 50 shades of blue

Being the largest in the Caucasus, with its great blue waters expanded over 80 kilometres, Sevan lake is also one of the largest freshwater high-altitude lakes in the World. Water colours change with the season and weather from a dazzling azure to dark blue with hundreds of shades through the process. Lake Sevan is surrounded by a number of significant Armenian monasteries, with Sevan monastery holding a prime position among others. Visiting this lake is definitely must-do in the region.

Yerevan (Armenia) – Place to amaze and awe

Capital of Armenia is arguably one of the most famous in the world comparing to other two. As noted in popular guidebook Yerevan is full of contradictions. Old-fashioned traditional teahouses are located next to chic bars and modern cafes. Street fashion ranges from young hipsters to old ‘babushkas’ with amazingly beautiful varieties in between. Yerevan has a distinguished colour in its main architecture – its pink. Proudly standing municipal, government and museum buildings coloured in pink – are something to amuse any traveller.

Garni (Armenia) – Hellenic Caucasus

Garni temple is a picturesque Parthenon-like structure built by Armenian King Trdat I in the first century AD. Features monumental columns, beautiful staircase, 7 th century church and remains of Roman-era bathhouse. Latest archaeological findings indicate that the surrounding area was inhabited as far back in history as Neolithic times. The site is completely different from what you’ve already seen in the Caucasus.       

All of the above are featured in our 15-day small group tour of Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan . Traveling in a group has many benefits. Apart from obvious economic reasons, when you save on many shared expenses, small group journeys are a great opportunity to connect with likeminded explorers from other countries. And, what’s most important to us, small group tours are a way to travel responsibly .        

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The Best of Azerbaijan, Georgia and Armenia

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Journey in the shadows of the Caucus Mountains on this tour through three fascinating countries. Explore the changing landscapes and captivating cultures of Azerbaijan, Georgia and Armenia, ticking off bucket-list sites from Prometheus Grotto to Stalin's birthplace. As we delve into the rich history of the region - discovering mosques, monasteries and fortresses - get a step closer to local life, breaking bread at a local farmer's house in Georgia and learning a centuries-old wine-making technique.

• Azerbaijan - Journey through the country that straddles two continents, delving into the countryside to meet locals and get to grips with rural life.
• Georgia - Explore the cobblestone streets of Tbilisi and beyond, uncovering into Soviet history and modern-day local life.
• Armenia - Finish up in Armenia, witnessing the stunning beauty of the country's monasteries and more.

Included meals

Breakfast: 18

Explore Tour Leader

Local Guide(s)

Accommodation

1 nights simple guesthouse

17 nights comfortable hotel

Group Size:

Trip maximum 16 Explore Average 11

Itineraries on some departure dates may differ, please select the itinerary that you wish to explore.

Our tour starts today at our hotel in Baku. Sitting on the coast of the Caspian Sea, Azerbaijan's capital is a tapestry of old meets new with the medieval walled city standing proudly next to glittering modern skyscrapers.

There are no activities planned for today, so you\ re free to arrive in Baku at any time. If you\ d like an airport transfer, you'll need to arrive into Heydar Aliyev International Airport (GYD), which is a 30-40-minute drive from the hotel.

Accommodation:

City Park Hotel (or similar)

Grade: Comfortable Hotel

Single room available

Meals provided: none.

The history of Baku is long and fascinating. In recent times, it played a major role in the 'oil boom' of the early 20th century, when the country produced more than half the world's supply of oil and the capital grew uncontrollably.

This morning, however, we'll delve into its older heritage. We'll start with a walk through the winding alleys of the Old City, whose mosques, caravanserais and overhanging wooden balconies tell of a quieter era in Baku's history. We'll see the Maiden's Tower, a powerful, eight-storey fortress, and the Shirvanshah's Palace complex, parts of which date back to the 15th century.

In the afternoon, we'll take a bus to the Absheron peninsula to visit its remarkable Zoroastrian Atesgah (fire temple). On our way back to the capital, we'll stop to admire Yanar Dag natural flame, a testimony to why Azerbaijan is known as the land of fire.

Meals Provided: Breakfast

We'll leave the Caspian Sea behind this morning and travel the historic trade route from Baku to Sheki, a scenic if winding journey in the shadow of the mighty Caucasus. En route, we'll stop at Samaxi where we'll visit the second-oldest mosque in the trans-Caucasus. Weather permitting, we'll also stop in Lahji, a village situated on the slopes of the Greater Caucasus Mountains and famous for its copper crafting tradition, which earned it a spot on the UNESCO heritage list. While there, we'll visit a local copper workshop and have tea with a local family.

Our total driving today is eight hours (including stops). The long journey time is made up for by the stunning landscapes we'll pass by, from lifeless deserts to dense green forests.

Macara Hotel (or similar)

Lost in the folds of the forested slopes of the Caucasus foothills, Sheki has been an important market town for centuries. It sits on the east-west trading route, running across the Caucasus, from the Caspian Sea in the east to the Black Sea in the west. A further trade route across the mountains to Dagestan in the north turned Sheki into a thriving commercial centre - especially during the 18th and 19th centuries, when there were no fewer than five working caravanserais providing safe lodging to merchants and traders. We'll visit the palace complex, including the museum.

In the afternoon, we'll head to the nearby village of Kish, where we can visit the village church, an ancient Albenian temple. Finally, on our way back to Sheki, we'll stop at a local workshop to learn how the traditional 'Kelagai' headscarves are still made by hand.

This morning we'll say goodbye to Azerbaijan and drive towards the border with Georgia.

After clearing customs, we'll drive through the Kakheti region which is famous for its wineries and warm hospitality. Along the way, the landscape will open up to views of the snowy Caucasus mountains and fertile valleys.

For lunch today, we'll travel to a local farm, where we'll enjoy a feast laid on by the farmer in his home. We'll have the unique opportunity to taste traditional Georgian cooking made with produce harvested from the host's garden.

Afterward, we'll move on to the impressive 11th-century Alaverdi cathedral, the tallest monastery in Georgia, surrounded by a beautiful cypress grove and then finally to 16th-century monumental Gremi Fortress.

Our last stop for today is the charming town of Telavi, where we'll stay overnight in a guesthouse.

Hillside Resort Telavi (or similar)

Grade: Simple Guesthouse

Swimming pool available

Meals provided: breakfast, lunch & dinner.

Our first stop today will be Telavi's farmers' market, an integral part of local daily life.

Our next stop is Vardisubani village, where we'll learn about the unique wine making technique that Georgians have been using since ancient times. We'll also take part in a masterclass to see how the Qvevri clay vessels are made.

Afterwards, we'll visit a traditional wine cellar in the village of Kondoli. The host has a special love for wine, which is reflected in the quality of the wine he produces. Here, we'll taste the most distinctive, natural wine "Zhghia" which is made from the rarest and highest quality Kakhetian grapes.

Finally, we'll head to the capital of Georgia, Tbilisi. Time permitting, on arrival we'll have time to stroll up to the Narikala Citadel to take in the views over the city or to dip into a relaxing sulphur bath, which the city is famous for. Tbilisi has a lively dining nightlife and social scene, a far cry from the days of the Soviet Era. The capital's beauty lies in the melting pot of architectural styles spanning from Persian to Medieval, brutal constructivist buildings sit next to shiny skyscrapers and western-inspired neighbourhoods.

Hotel KMM (or similar)

Leaving the capital this morning, we'll drive to picturesque Mtskheta, the spiritual heart of Georgia. Here, we'll visit the 6th-century hilltop Jvari Monastery where we'll have spectacular views of Mtskheta and the confluence of two rivers below. We'll make our way down into the town to visit Svetitskhoveli Cathedral. The 11th-century basilica contains the grave of Sidonia, who was said to have been buried holding Christ's robe.

Afterward, we'll head further west, snaking through the beautiful Imereti villages that dot the landscape. We'll stop in Kaspi to visit a traditional winery and sample some of the Georgian bio-wines that are produced here, differing greatly from the more famous wines found in eastern Georgia. This place is the perfect example of how the younger generation continues the tradition left by their ancestors. We'll learn about the history of wine making and get to taste the natural wines made from unique grape varieties that were on the verge of extinction, just a few years ago.

Arriving in Kutaisi, the ancient capital of the Kingdom of Colchis, we'll check in at our guesthouse for a two-night stay. Kutaisi has been an important town throughout the ages and for many years was the capital of Georgia, when the Arabs occupied Tbilisi. The period between the reigns of King Bagrat and Queen Tamar (roughly 900-1200) was the golden age for Kutaisi and most of the significant buildings date from this time. Now, it's the main city of the Imereti region and the people here are renowned for their sense of humour and a special kind of 'khachapuri' - the delicious cheese bread that's unique to Georgia.

Hotel Gudauri Hut (or similar)

Meals Provided: Breakfast & Dinner

North of Gudauri, the Kazbegi region is a picturesque area, with alpine meadows and towering snow-capped mountains. We'll make an early start this morning as we plan to hike from Stepantsminda town through Gergeti village and up to the iconic 14th-century Church of the Holy Trinity, located at 2710 metres above sea level, on a hilltop overlooking the snowy peaks of the Caucasus Mountains. The circular walk covers seven kilometres and it should take us around three to four hours to complete. If you'd rather not take part in the hike, you can take a local taxi.

The area is a treasure trove of mythology - Prometheus was chained to the majestic Mount Kazbegi (5047m), the highest peak in this region. This part of the Caucasus is also a protected area and is home to a variety of flora and fauna. Georgia has over 100 different mammals, and, although the European bison and Caucasian leopard have become extinct, there are still wolves and bears in the mountains.

This morning we'll set off for our journey to Gori. We'll stop at the Soviet-style town of Gori, where Georgia's most famous son, Stalin, was born. Here, we'll visit the museum and learn much about his life. Interestingly, Stalin initially began training as a priest in the Georgian Seminary before abandoning religion to become a brigand and join the new Bolshevik movement. It's been suggested too that Georgia escaped the worst horrors of Stalin's regime because he was afraid of his conservative Christian mother. En route, we'll pay a visit to the Ananuri Fortress overlooking a reservoir on the Aragvi River.

Today's journey ends in Akhaltsikhe, a charming town which literally translates to 'new fortress' (though ironically there isn't much that's new about this 12th-century town). The skyline is dominated by the imposing Rabati castle, its old streets are home to a large Armenian population, and the forests just outside the town hide the beautiful 10th-century Saphara Monastery. We'll have some free time later this afternoon to explore Akhaltsikhe.

Lomsia Hotel (or similar)

Today we'll head towards one of Georgia's most significant sites, the cave town of Vardzia. On route we'll stop off at Khertvisi Fortress, dramatically situated on a cliff above the confluence of two major rivers. It's one of the oldest fortresses in Georgia, dating back to the 2nd Century BC.

We'll continue our drive through a remote and beautiful landscape of rolling hills, with mountain peaks on the horizon and pine trees occasionally standing like sentries along the sides of the road. Vardzia itself is cut into a towering cliff and was established as a stronghold against the Turkish Sultanate (the Turkish border is only 10 kilometres away) by King Giorgi III in the 12th century. Vardzia was subsequently developed by his daughter, Tamar (later to become Queen Tamar), who created a cave monastery that became a centre of Georgian culture. This network of caves above the Mtkvari (Kura) River once numbered 3000, with up to 19 tiers in some places. Much of it was destroyed after a huge earthquake in 1456 and only 550 caves have been discovered since. There are numerous churches, meeting halls, refectories, and wine cellars, all interconnected by tunnels and stairways. We'll have time to explore and navigate our way around this fascinating place before returning to Akhaltsikhe.

Meals Provided: Breakfast & Lunch

This morning we'll drive to the Borjomi Mineral Water Park, travelling through the majestic forests of the Borjomi Gorge and stopping to sample the sulphurous water, which is believed to have healing properties.

Our journey continues to the UNESCO-listed monastery complex at Gelati, which includes an Academy that employed some of Georgia's greatest thinkers. It was founded in 1106 by King David the Builder in gratitude to God for his victories over the Turks. The King wanted it to serve as a centre of Christendom, so as well as scholars many religious artists studied here. Many of the treasures which were made here have been lost over the centuries, however the buildings and frescos inside are extremely well preserved, and the setting of the monastery on a hillside with views over to the distant Caucasus peaks photo-worthy.

We'll visit the turquoise-roofed Bagrati Cathedral before finishing our day in Kutaisi, which is one of the oldest cities in the world - its name is associated with the myth of the Argonauts.

Kutaisi Inn (or similar)

We'll set off for Batumi this morning, Georgia's attractive summer capital that sits on the shores of the Black Sea.

A renovation and regeneration project carried out at the turn of the century has transformed the city's skyline, now a mix of modern skyscrapers which contrast the charming 19th-century buildings, all set against a backdrop of the rolling mountains that surround Batumi.

We'll start our exploration in the Old Town, walking through European Square and Piazza Square, home to classic architecture that features mosaics, stained glass windows, clock towers and churches. After lunch, we'll move on to the more modern seafront, where a stroll along Batumi Boulevard lets you take in the modern skyscrapers, dancing water fountains and the moving metal sculpture of Ali and Nino.

After some free time at the end of the city tour, we'll return to Kutaisi in the late afternoon (drive of approximately three hours).

Today, we'll drive back to Tbilisi and, in the afternoon, take a city tour on foot. Tbilisi is both an ancient and cosmopolitan city; you can find a synagogue, a mosque, a Georgian basilica, an Armenian church, and a Zoroastrian Fire-Worshipper's temple all within a 15-minute walk of one another.

Our orientation tour takes us first to the important Church of Metecki and through the picturesque Old Town, the Sioni Cathedral and then on to the fascinating State Museum. Afterwards, we'll enjoy panoramic views of the whole town at the 4th-century Narikala fortress before we walk back to the city centre via the historical domed sulphur bath area.

This afternoon, there's plenty of time free to explore the city at your own pace. You might like to take a backstage tour of the Rustaveli Theatre or wander through the narrow streets of the Old Town, perhaps finding a quirky café to pass the time in. A walk over the architecturally striking contemporary Peace Bridge is also a must.

Today we'll head to the Georgia/Armenia border at Sadakhlo. Here we'll say goodbye to our Georgian tour leader and meet our Armenian tour leader. After clearing customs, our first stop is the dramatically located Monastery of Haghpat, listed by UNESCO thanks to its outstanding ecclesiastical architecture.

Moving on, the scenery changes again as we find ourselves amongst hills and valleys covered in pine trees. In the picturesque town of Dilijan, we'll walk through a museum street, which has preserved houses dating back to the 18th century, with typical fretwork wooden balconies as well as local handicraft studios.

After our stop, we'll continue our drive. The scenery changes again and becomes more dramatic as we pass towering escarpments and make our way into the copper mining area of Armenia. The road then starts a descent and, once again we'll pass through villages, eventually catching our first glimpse of the expansive waters of the beautiful Lake Sevan, set against mountain peaks.

Located 1900 metres above sea level, Lake Sevan is famous for its ever-changing hues, and, depending on the weather, the colour of the water can range from a deep, steely blue to a stunning turquoise. This huge body of water is the largest lake in the Caucasus region, covering an area of 940 square kilometres, and one of the largest fresh water high altitude lakes in the world. We'll have the chance to walk up to Sevanavank Monastery, where we can get a different perspective of the lake.

Our hotel for tonight sits on the banks of the lake itself.

Blue Sevan (or similar)

We'll depart Lake Sevan after breakfast to visit a cross stone cemetery in Noratus village. This unique cemetery holds a collection of nearly 1000 khatchkars (intricately carved vertical tombstones).

Afterward, we'll climb higher making our way over the Selim Pass (2410m) giving us wonderful views of the mountains and Alpine meadows, which are covered in wildflowers in the spring. As the Selim Pass was once part of the Silk Road, we can find the remains of a caravanserai here, where travellers would stop for food and shelter on their journey. As we approach the mountains, the plains give way to undulating hills. We'll pass through the wine-making village of Areni, where we'll stop at a local winery to taste the best wine in Armenia. Continuing on our way, the scenery becomes more mountainous, and we'll head into a spectacular gorge where we'll make a stop at the picturesque Noravank Monastery, which sits in a picturesque position overlooking the gorge below.

After lunch, we'll travel north through the vast plains of Ararat to visit the Khor Virap Monastery. Mount Ararat is a constant companion on the horizon and provides a spectacular backdrop to the monastery.

Finally, we'll reach the capital and check-in at our hotel, which will be our base for the rest of the tour. In Yerevan, tree-lined streets encase both grand Soviet-era architecture and traditional Armenian coloured stone buildings, all set against the dramatic backdrop of the fabled Mount Ararat.

Hotel Ani Plaza (or similar)

This morning, we'll travel out of the city to visit the 7th-century ruins of the UNESCO-listed Zvartnots. Its remaining columns are set against a magnificent backdrop of the snowy peaks of Mount Ararat. We'll continue on to the \ Holy City\ of Echmiadzin, Armenia's former capital, where we'll visit the UNESCO-listed Echmiadzin Cathedral in time to coincide with part of the Sunday service.

Returning to Yerevan, and before continuing our city tour, we'll visit the Tsitsernakaberd Armenian Genocide Memorial Complex and its museum, an important and unmissable stop. We'll then make our way to the Cascade complex - a Soviet-period structure that resembles a giant stairway and houses a modern art museum. We'll continue on to see the expansive Republic Square before spending time at the open-air Vernissage craft market.

Today, we'll once again leave the city behind us as we drive east through a landscape of alpine meadows to the Hellenistic temple at Garni. This pagan monument, dedicated to the worship of the sun, was built in AD77 and is an extraordinary site to be found in Armenia, so far from the rest of the Hellenistic world. From the Garni River gorge, we'll take an easy walk up the temple. Along the way, we'll see the striking basalt rock formations that make up the towering walls of the gorge.

We'll then continue to the nearby UNESCO-listed Geghard Monastery, found in a beautiful location surrounded by mountains. Partly made up of caves and partly built from local stone, this tranquil monastery dates from the 4th century and houses two main churches decorated with impressive well-preserved carvings and a fountain of spring water alleged to have rejuvenating properties.

Today we'll head northwest to visit the Amberd Fortress, a 10th-century fortress on the slopes of Mount Aragats. En route, we'll stop to visit Alphabet Park, a tribute to the complexity and uniqueness of the Armenian language. Finally, we'll arrive at the fortress, which sits 4090 metres above sea level. Its construction began in the 7th century and continued into the 11th. It's surrounded by cliffs on three sides, which protected it for a long time until Tamerlane managed to sack it in the 14th century.

Afterward, we'll head towards Oshakan village, where a local family invites us into their home to see how they bake traditional Armenian flatbread known as 'Lovash'. We'll then enjoy a lunch prepared with this freshly baked bread, before returning to the city.

Back in Yerevan, we'll have time to visit the remarkable Matenadaran Library, which houses over 17,000 rare manuscripts.

There are no other activities planned today, so you\ re free to leave Yerevan at any time. If your flight is departing later in the day luggage storage facilities are available at our hotel. If you\ d like an airport transfer, you'll need to depart from Yerevan International Airport (EVN), which is a 30-minute drive from the hotel.

If you\ d like to explore the Armenian capital further, you can add extra nights onto your trip. Please contact us to book additional accommodation. You might like to pay a visit to the History Museum of Armenia (which has a 5500-year-old leather shoe in its collection), attend a performance at the Armenian National Opera and Ballet Theatre, or taste a freshly baked \ gata\ (a traditional Armenian pastry) while soaking up the relaxed atmosphere of this delightful city.

Alternatively, if you\ d like to add on extra days in Yerevan before our tour starts, contact us to book accommodation.

Is this the tour for you?

• Our tour of Azerbaijan, Georgia and Armenia is graded as full on. Expect a packed itinerary, some long days and lengthy drives to fit in all the highlights.
• From UNESCO - listed monasteries to farmer's markets, we'll spend plenty of time on our feet exploring all that these three countries have to offer. A basic level of fitness and comfortable shoes are a must.
• This tour includes a hike in the Kazbegi Mountains. If you'd like to partake, we recommend bringing decent walking shoes. For those who'd rather not hike, local taxis can be booked.

Trip information

Due to the fact that Armenia is on a high landlocked plateau the temperature extremes are pronounced: winters are cold and summers can be very hot, spring and autumn are widely regarded as the best times to visit.

Time difference to GMT

2 Pin Round

Georgia has a temperate climate with warm dry periods from June to September. Early and late in the season, temperatures can drop to sub-zero at higher altitude.

Weather is changeable in the north and mountains; it can be cool especially at night, bring a warmer jacket. Raingear is essential at all times. In remote parts of Armenia and Georgia you should avoid shorts and vest tops; long trousers or skirts are ideal. A headscarf is essential for visiting churches and mosques.

Comfortable shoes for visiting sites and hilly towns; sandals; lightweight walking/trail boots for optional day walks.

Luggage: On tour

One main piece of baggage and daypack. Remember you are expected to carry your own luggage so don't overload yourself. If you are planning on taking any prescription medications with you on tour it is recommended that you also carry a prescription issued by your doctor.

A waterbottle, torch, swimsuit, sunhat, suncream and sunglasses.

Food and drink The costs for meals may vary depending upon location, type of restaurant and number of courses eaten and so the prices given are an average guide. Local restaurants located off the beaten track may be less expensive, whereas an upmarket restaurant located in the centre of a major city may charge more.

Foreign exchange, transport information, accommodation notes.

During this tour, we'll stay in a range of simple guesthouses and comfortable hotels. Each of our accommodations has been chosen based on comfort, location and authenticity. Guesthouses are common in Georgia and Armenia and are often family-run. While you might not get the amenities of larger chain hotels, you do get a warm welcome and an authentic experience. Most of our hotels are centrally located with plenty to see right on the doorstep. They have comfortable, en-suite rooms and WiFi available so you can stay in touch with those at home. Some may have a restaurant or bar to relax in after a busy day of sightseeing. There are sometimes extra amenities such as a spa, pool, gym or terrace to relax in, too.

Food and drink

Can you drink the water?  It is generally possible to drink the local tap water, therefore to reduce the need for single-use plastic bottles we recommend you bring a refillable water bottle with you. Your leader will advise you on refill points each day. 

Government Travel Safety Advice

Under 18 immigration guidance.

Please note that some countries require proof of parental consent when travelling overseas with under 18s. Please check requirements with the relevant embassy or consular office well in advance of travel if this applies to your party.

Price Guarantee

Once your booking has been confirmed we guarantee the price will not increase, whatever the circumstances. However, please note that if you voluntarily make any changes to your booking including changing your trip or departure date, any additional costs or charges incurred will not be covered. Before booking please ensure you have read our important tour pricing information. Booking Conditions  

Visa and Passport Information

Armenia: Visas are not required for EU nationals, US & UK citizens. Georgia: Visas are not required for EU nationals, UK, Canadian or US citizens. Azerbaijan: UK, US and EU nationals travelling to Azerbaijan need to get a visa in advance. The ASAN Visa (e-Visa) service is now open to all British nationals. E-Visas are normally valid for 30 days and are single entry. E-Visas normally take 72 hours to process. An urgent service is available for an additional fee and processed within 3 hours. If you apply for an e-Visa check the 'Screening' requirements for entry above. ***IMPORTANT*** All travellers to Azerbaijan bringing mobile phones and wireless devices into the country for the first time must declare these to customs officials at their point of entry. Mobile phone declarations must be submitted with the corresponding IMEI number of the device. This can be done online using Azerbaijan's customs website - https://e.customs.gov.az/for-individuals/passenger-declaration, and presented to customs officials on arrival. Other nationalities should consult the relevant consulate.

If you do require assistance in obtaining a visa then you may be able to apply through Explore's recommended visa service in the UK, Travcour. See www.travcour.com to download the relevant visa application for your trip, if applicable (UK citizens only), along with details of how to apply for your visa through Travcour. The Team at Travcour will be happy to answer specific questions relating to visa applications, please call them directly on 0208 5431846 . It is your responsibility to ensure that you are in possession of a full passport, with the correct validity for your chosen destination.  

Booking conditions

Minimum age restrictions, your safety and enjoyment on tour, your tour leader, find out more about trip transfer terms and conditions before you book. booking a land only package with explore.

Customers who have chosen to book on the ‘Land Only’ arrangements of our tour, please ensure that you have checked your tour specific ‘Joining Instructions’ prior to booking your own travel arrangements. Your joining instructions can be found below in the dates and prices information.  You may also be eligible for the Free Explore Transfer.

Joining Tour Abroad

Customers booked on the ‘Land Only’ arrangements will receive a Free Transfer, provided you arrive and depart on the tour only itinerary start and end dates. The complimentary transfers will be arranged from the Explore designated airport or train station to your trips joining point, and then back from the ending point to the designated airport or train station. Generally the airport or station that Explore have selected will be the one that is closest to the town or city where the trip starts, or the one nearest to the joining point. It will be either an airport or train station but not both. The exception to this rule is customers who are booked on a tour where the joining and ending point is at the designated airport or train station.  

Free transfers are not available for Polar customers.

If you are not eligible for the Free Transfer then you will need to make your own way through to the joining and ending point. On a majority of our tours Explore will be able to provide a private transfer at an additional cost. Please ask for a quote at the time of booking.   For more information regarding the Explore Free Transfer click here

It is a condition of booking with Explore that you have adequate valid travel insurance. It is your responsibility to arrange appropriate travel insurance and ensure you have read and understood the full terms and conditions of your travel insurance policy to ensure that you are covered for all activities you intend to undertake whilst on the tour, including all optional activities. Your Insurance Policy must fully cover you for medical expenses and emergency repatriation to your home country. Please ensure your policy includes medical emergency helicopter evacuation in the event of illness or injury and covers the entire duration of your holiday. If you are trekking at altitude please ensure that there is no upper altitude limit which may limit or exclude cover for your trip. The cost of many of our Polar Voyages will exceed the capped amount covered by standard insurance premiums and you will be required to pay an additional premium to cover the full value of your trip. Please ensure that you are covered for the full amount of your holiday cost, as insufficient cover could invalidate a claim under the policy. Medical and repatriation insurance cover is not mandatory for UK residents who are travelling on trips within the United Kingdom. Read more information about what travel insurance is required.

Flight information

Flight information.

You are able to book this tour on a 'land only' basis or as a ‘flight inclusive’ package. Your flight inclusive package will be fully protected by the Civil Aviation Authority (CAA) ATOL protection scheme.

Booking a flight inclusive package with Explore

We have a good selection of flights not only from London but from many regional airports around the UK allowing us to compare fares between scheduled carriers as well as low cost and charter airlines. Our dedicated flights team will match the best flight options to your arrival and departure airport.

On our website we display the price of the tour only. Please call us or select the flight option during the online checkout to receive a quote for a flight inclusive package. To avoid paying supplements or to secure your preferred flight option, we recommend booking as early as possible, especially for peak travel dates.

Vaccinations

Nothing compulsory but we recommend protection against malaria, typhoid, tetanus, infectious hepatitis and polio. Consult your travel clinic for latest advice on different prophylaxis available against malaria. Please check the latest requirements with your travel clinic or doctor prior to departure. The above is not an exhaustive list. Further information regarding vaccinations and travel health advice can be found by following the NHS and NaTHNaC links at Explore Travel Health and from your local healthcare provider. Visa and vaccination requirements are subject to change and should be confirmed by you before travelling.

Why book this trip

Dates, prices and booking, add a flight with explore.

• Full Explore refunds in the event of FCDO cancellations or major disruption at your UK departure airport
• Carbon neutral flights – Gold Standard offsetting included
• Rearranged flights and transfers in the event of delays, missed connections, or cancellations (including accommodation overseas)
• ATOL protected
• No surcharge guarantee

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The best of georgia and armenia.

The Five Stans of The Silk Road

Hiking in the Georgian Caucasus

Historic Baltic Republics

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• More Details
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Wander-Lush

12 Things You Should Know Before Travelling to the Caucasus

Planning to travel to the Caucasus? This list of 12 useful Caucasus travel tips covers everything from money to border crossings.

When I first travelled to t he Trans-Caucasus countries (Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan), the region was still relatively unknown to tourists outside Eastern Europe. Ninety percent of people I spoke to couldn’t pinpoint Georgia on a map, let alone shed light on what it’s like to travel or live there.

• Also read: 23 practical travel tips for Georgia: Food, money, transport & accommodation

In the last few years, the Caucasus travel has become extremely popular – thanks in no small part to Georgia and Armenia being featured on many a must-do travel list (Lonely Planet, Forbes, AFAR… The list goes on). Budget flights to Tbilisi , Kutaisi and now Gyumri and Yerevan have made the region more accessible than ever before.

I certainly knew very little about the Caucasus before we decided to go (up until a few years ago, I would have had no hope of locating it on a map either). Honestly, my ignorance was a big part of the reason I wanted to travel there in the first place . It was challenging at times, but overall it was hugely rewarding to go in with very few expectations and figure things out as we went along.

I don’t want to spoil any surprises or deprive you of that same sense of discovery—but I do think it helps to have a few pointers. To help you on your way, I’ve put together this list based on some of the common questions readers and friends ask me about travelling in Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan.

Here are 12 things I think you should know before visiting the Caucasus.

Please note: This post contains affiliate links, meaning I may earn a commission if you make a purchase by clicking a link (at no extra cost to you). Learn more.

1. The region is incredibly diverse

It’s tempting to lump Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan together, but the three countries are very distinct. For starters, each one has its own language, culture and religion.

There’s a certain amount of overlap between Georgia and Armenia because the two countries share a long history and similar belief systems. Azerbaijan has a fascinating landscape and culture all of its own , and in my opinion is more distinct from its neighbours.

Travelling to all three countries as part of the one trip (like we did) makes sense logistically – and I’d go as far as to say that you really need to experience all three in order to get a balanced overview of the region. Don’t make the mistake of skipping Yerevan ‘because you’ve already seen Tbilisi’ – it doesn’t work like that.

There’s a huge amount of variety within each country, too. Azerbaijan, for example, supports nine out of the world’s 11 climatic zones and has an incredibly diverse landscape.

The Caucasus is second only to Papua New Guinea in terms of its linguistic diversity. One of the best things you can do is visit and learn about the ancient tribes and clans of the Northern Caucasus mountains , who know no state borders.

2. It feels a lot more like Europe than Asia

The Caucasus has always been defined by its mix of cultural influences due to its position at the crossroads of East and West. After the collapse of the Soviet Union , all three countries moved to distance themselves from Russia and fixed their gaze firmly on the West.

This is especially true of Georgia, which is currently pushing for membership in the EU.

Is Armenia in Europe? Is Georgia in Asia? Whether the Caucasus is part of the European or Asian continent seems to be a point of ongoing contention. All three countries are technically in Asia; but overall, the region feels a lot more European, especially in the cities.

All three capitals – Tbilisi , Yerevan and Baku – are characterised by classical architecture, parks, fountains and boulevards. To me, it definitely felt like I was travelling in Europe, albeit a slightly grungier version.

3. Just because two countries are neighbours doesn’t mean they’re friends

I was surprised to learn that there are still a number of active conflicts going on in the Caucasus. I think it’s important to understand a little bit about diplomatic relations between bordering countries – at the very least, it could have practical implications for your itinerary.

The most severe conflict is probably the one between Armenia and Azerbaijan. It centres on the Nagorno-Karabakh (Artsakh) region, a breakaway territory sandwiched between the two republics, which has been a site of skirmish since the 1980s. The war in Nagorno-Karabakh officially ended in 1994, but landmines and gun snipers are still a part of the everyday reality there.

It’s possible to travel to Nagorno-Karabakh, but only from the Armenian side of the border. And if you do, you forfeit your chance to travel to Azerbaijan – Azeri immigration won’t permit you to enter the country if they find any evidence that you’ve been to the disputed zone. The border between Armenia and Azerbaijan remains closed, so it’s necessary to pass back through Georgia if you’re travelling between the two countries overland.

Armenia has a tumultuous history with neighbouring Turkey, so the Armenian/Turkish border is also impassable.

Relations between Armenia and Iran, by contrast, are blossoming – the two neighbours recently established a visa-free travel agreement for their citizens. (You’ll see a lot of Iranian tourists in Yerevan – our tour guide there went as far as to suggest that one in three people you see on the street at any given time is Iranian.)

Muslim-majority Azerbaijan is closer with Turkey than any of its other neighbours. Although the two states no longer share a land border, many aspects of their culture and language overlap.

In the midst of all this, Georgia is sort of a ‘neutral’ state. Its borders with Russia, Turkey, Azerbaijan and Armenia are all open.

Georgia shares a long history with Armenia (much of Tbilisi’s old town was historically Armenian ), and today the two countries have something of a friendly sibling rivalry (both claim to be the birthplace of viticulture and the inventor of the churchkhela ). Georgians have much more in common with Armenians, while Azerbaijan is sort of viewed as the ‘outsider’ of the group.

Russia’s most recent forceful encroachment onto Georgian territory is still fresh in the memory of people as young as me. This has fostered an anti-Russian sentiment in the minds of many Georgians.

4. The history will break your heart

Ongoing border disputes are evidence of the fact that Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan are all young republics with a long, often troubling, history. This is something to be aware of, but I strongly believe that learning about events like the Armenian Genocide is best saved until you arrive in-country.

One of the most confronting things for me was the fact that I had never really heard of the Armenian Genocide before I set foot in Yerevan.

Be respectful, but don’t shy away from the history of the Caucasus. One of the best ways to immerse yourself and deepen your knowledge is simply by speaking to people.

5. Poverty is a big issue

One thing all three Caucasus countries share is a common legacy of Sovietism. Coming from the West, I had a lot of preconceptions about the Soviet Union, which I generally consider to be a period of oppression and misery.

But talking to people on the ground (especially older generations), I was surprised to learn that not everyone looks back on Soviet times as ‘dark days’. For some, life was easier under the Soviet Union because they had everything they needed.

Georgia and Armenia both suffered huge economic losses after the Union dissolved; Azerbaijan survived on its oil money.

This all unfolded in the 1990s, which really wasn’t that long ago, and you still see a lot of poverty in all three countries today as a result. Armenia has one of the highest rates of migration in the world; young people especially are leaving in droves to escape the flagging economy.

Even for the young and well-educated in Georgia, jobs are scarce and wages in some sectors (including hospitality) are extremely low . As tourists, I believe we all have a responsibility to support local and small businesses , and visit less touristy areas to spread the love around (when possible).

Having travelled extensively in Southeast Asia, I’m used to seeing poverty. If you’re not so familiar with it, you best brace yourself for some pretty confronting scenes, especially in rural areas. You should also be prepared to deal with professional beggars in the bigger cities, especially in Tbilisi.

6. The cities are incredibly safe

OK – so there is a certain degree of ongoing political conflict and urban poverty is definitely an issue in the Caucasus, but for the average tourist, it’s still an incredibly safe place to visit .

By some measures, Georgia is one of the safest countries in the world (the 2018 Global Law and Order report from Gallup ranked Georgia 17th among 142 countries for security—ahead of the UK, US, and Germany).

One of the coolest things about Tbilisi is how the city cares for its stray animals—most street dogs are tagged and vaccinated by the state, and they are relatively friendly (the same does not go for dogs in rural areas, especially Caucasian mountain dogs).

Armenia is trying hard to shake off its reputation for corruption by putting anti-bribery measures in place at border crossings. I know this is a sweeping generalisation, but in my experience, people in the Caucasus are generally very trustworthy and community-minded.

Pick-pocketing and petty crime are rare in all three cities, and we certainly didn’t experience trouble of any kind.

7. Public transport is the best way to get around

I’m a huge advocate of road trips, but I really wouldn’t bother with hiring or buying a car in the Caucasus. All three countries have top-notch inter-city transport networks, including trains and buses. Inter-country travel is also straightforward and affordable if you travel by overnight train .

Tbilisi, Baku and Yerevan all have metro systems (in the Soviet Union, any city with a population of one million people automatically qualified for a line), public buses and ride-sharing services. (The first time I ever used Uber was for a Lada ride to the bus station in Baku.) In my experience, public transport in the cities is cheap and generally reliable – plus, you can buy a local sim card and use Google Maps for route planning.

Trust me, you will learn to love the humble marshrutka ! These ubiquitous minivans are the best way to get around the Caucasus – I think we had more than 30 marshrutka rides in total. For a full break down of the public transport we used on our trip (including travel times and prices), check out our full itinerary .

If you’re thinking about driving, check out my tips for driving in Georgia and this helpful post about renting a car in Baku .

8. The food (and wine) will redefine your idea of ‘delicious’

I knew I was going to like Georgian food, but I wasn’t expecting there to be quite so much variety (or to be honest, so much flavour). After a year in Cambodia, all I wanted to do was pig out on cheese, bread and wine. I certainly did that – but I also got to eat some of the tastiest, freshest, healthiest meals I’ve ever eaten in my life.

I can confidently say that Georgian cooking changed what ‘delicious’ means to me – and what food should taste like in general. I’ve previously written about Georgian food in Tbilisi and in Kutaisi. (The food in Armenia and Azerbaijan was also good, but Georgia definitely wins in the culinary stakes.)

I would be remiss not to add a little something about wine. Viticulture was pioneered in present-day Georgia and Armenia, and both countries (especially Georgia) now produce incredible vino. Kakheti is Georgia’s wine-producing region and well worth a visit.

9. English is widely spoken

Since learning Russian in school is no longer compulsory, many young people in the Caucasus now choose to learn English instead. Like anywhere else these days, English is viewed as an essential skill for the new economy.

It’s always handy to know a few phrases (and a good habit to absorb as much of the local language as possible), but you certainly won’t have any trouble getting around if you only speak English.

Of the three countries, Azerbaijan had the least spoken English – but it all balanced out. Unlike the Georgian and Armenian alphabets which are beautiful but undecipherable, the Azeri alphabet is based on Turkic characters, which are easy enough to read.

10. Religion is critical

Did you know that Armenia was the first country in the world to adopt Christianity as its state religion? I didn’t. But after spending Easter Sunday in Yerevan, I got a taste for how deeply-rooted Armenian Orthodoxy is in the country.

Georgia, too, is a very religious country. And it’s not going out of fashion, either. Quite the opposite. According to 2018 research by Pew , Georgia is one of only two countries globally where youth are more religious than elders (on average, of course).

It’s not uncommon to see people on the bus or in cars cross themselves as they pass by a church (I know this happens in other Orthodox countries, too). Both Georgia and Armenia are famous for their impressive cave monasteries, churches and cathedrals.

Azerbaijan – ever the odd one out – is 99 percent Muslim, with most believers adhering to an orthodox Ithna Ashari school of Shi’a Islam. From what I’ve read and experienced, Muslim identity in Azerbaijan is more about culture and ethnicity than religious belief.

It’s kind of miraculous that all three countries held onto such strong belief systems throughout Soviet times. There’s no doubt that religion is part of the fabric of all three nations; but overall, I would say that personal ideas of devotion are mixed.

I wouldn’t particularly describe any of these countries as conservative, either – we only saw a handful of women wearing the hijab in Azerbaijan, for example. Contrary to some other travellers’ reports, public buses and trains in the country are no longer sex-segregated.

It goes without saying that as a tourist, you’ll be expected to dress and behave in certain ways when you’re inside a place of worship. Head scarves and wrap-around skirts are available for women to borrow at all Orthodox churches.

11. The kindness of strangers will restore your faith in humanity

Hospitality and tolerance is a huge part of Caucasian culture, and in my experience, people will honestly do just about anything they can to make you feel welcome. Georgians in particular are infamous for their stony exterior; but underneath the brusqueness, we found so much warmth.

I’ve written a whole post about the small gestures of kindness that shaped my overwhelmingly positive view of the Caucasus. It contains a few anecdotes which you might enjoy reading before you visit the country.

This isn’t to say that Georgia (nor Azerbaijan nor Armenia – nor any other country on earth) doesn’t have its fair share of social issues.

This 2018 report from Human Rights Watch provides an easy-to-digest overview of Georgian policy and politics, including hot-button issues such as media freedom, drug policy and same-sex marriage.

12. The Caucasus is already a popular destination

Just because you haven’t heard much about the Caucasus doesn’t mean it’s not a popular tourist destination. We travelled during shoulder season (March to May) and didn’t encounter too many crowds. But I can only think of one or two occasions when we were the only tourists around.

If you’re travelling during the high season (summer, June to August), I would recommend booking at least some of your accommodation and transportation in advance.

Armenia, as I mentioned, is a popular spot for Iranian tourists, and Georgia too is gaining a reputation among travellers from the region (largely thanks to cheap Wizz Air flights that now service Kutaisi). Most of the other travellers we met on the road in Georgia were Ukrainian or Polish.

On one hand, this is a good things, because tourist infrastructure is already pretty well developed to cater to local markets. At the same time, you still feel like you’re somewhat off the mainstream tourist track—especially if you’re from Australia (we’re still a bit of a novelty in these parts).

One of the best things about travelling in the Caucasus is the chance to connect with tourists from countries in Eastern Europe and Central Asia. In my opinion, it’s way more interesting to meet a traveller from Kazakhstan than to share a bus ride with a hoard of American tourists.

I’ve no doubt that the Caucasus region will one day earn the recognition it deserves among tourists of all stripes. And I sincerely hope that tourism will be a positive force in the lives of the people who live there.

Have you travelled in Georgia, Armenia or Azerbaijan? Or maybe you’re planning your own trip ? If you have any tips for fellow travellers, please leave them here in the comments!

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86 Comments

I visited friends in Tbilisi for two weeks in late September 2023. I can vouch for everything I’ve seen in Emily’s great guide. I just wish I’d known about it and read it all before I visited! And now I’m reading it to refresh my memories. The one thing I have not (yet) seen mentioned is the unbelievably horrible traffic in Tbilisi. Gridlock seems to be the normal thing in this city, which means that — just as Emily says — you must allow LOTS of time for traveling around Tbilisi. (Fortunately, taxis are very cheap.) For trips outside the city my friends hired a professional tour guide who was terrific and very reasonable. He took us to a set of historic monasteries & fortresses in Mtckheta, Dmanisi, Stepantsminda, Jvari, and Ujarma (5 different day trips). Some of the drives were long (3-4 hrs or more) but the scenery was wonderful and every destination was worth it — I only wish we had had more time at each one. One site I’d especially recommend is the huge monastery Davidgareja, built into a cliff right on the border with Azerbaijan. On the days between day trips we visited the National Museum (twice), bazaar, the huge monumental Chronicle of Georgia, the riverfront (don’t miss the boat ride), and especially the Ethnographic Museum (which has a display of actual wooden homes from the 19th century, furnished!). I agree with everything Emily describes — food, weather, hospitality, amazingly cheap prices, spectacular scenery, historical interest (especially Dmanisi’s incredible archaelogical site and discoveries). My first three days I stayed at a downtown hotel, Platforma Design, which I would recommend strongly — quiet, modern, comfortable, friendly, conveniently located, and amazingly cheap. To summarize: I’d go back to Georgia tomorrow if it weren’t the dead of winter — and hope to return soon!

Thanks so much Frank for the trip report! I’m so glad you enjoyed your first visit to Georgia and are planning to return!

Helloo Emily, Thank you for an informative topic Caucause. I live in Norway, I want to visist my brother who studying in Turkey to travel around (Georgia-Azeirbarjan- Armenia, or just Georgia- Azeirbajan). In first week of juni 2023. My quations; how cheeply can we travel from Turkey to Georgia and Azeibaijan. Which country its best to start with Azeirbajan rog Georgia. Its better to travel buy train, bus or airplan? You did not write abou the budsjet? how much do we need for 15 days. We can live in hostel?

Hi Abdo – Azerbaijan’s land borders will remain closed until the end of June at least. I would fly to Baku then make your way into Georgia from there (you can safely cross into Georgia, just not the other way around). Have a great trip!

Hello there,

Curious if you know about the Turkey/Georgia border crossing – is traveling into Georgia by land open at the moment? Grateful for any response!

Hello Kelly!

The land border situation is a bit confusing – land borders are still closed to tourists (i.e. anyone eligible to enter Georgia with proof of vaccination or a negative PCR), but you can come in through Sarpi if you are holding a business visa or Remotely From Georgia permit. I expect land borders will open in the coming weeks but I’m not 100% sure.

I hope this helps!

Hey I’m planning on flying into tbsili and staying there for a few weeks. Then, I plan to go to armenia. Is there an overnight train to gyumri or Yerevan? Or would I need to take a bus or fly?

Hi Zain, there is an overnight train to Yerevan leaving Tbilisi every evening at 10.45pm during summer. It just started up again on June 15.

Safe travels!

Hi from a fellow Aussie! I’ve really enjoyed reading your posts on visiting the Caucasus; so well-written and clear. We’ve just started planning our trip (for some point when Covid finally goes away, obvs) and can’t wait – and these tips will be invaluable.

Hey Leonie! So glad to hear that, thank you for taking the time to leave a note 🙂 Please let me know when you’re in Tbilisi – I’ll likely still be here and would love to buy you a glass of wine.

Happy planning, and don’t hesitate to reach out if there’s anything I can help with!

Cheers from Brazil

what AMAZING article! I hope 1 day i will convice my wife to visit this region, also Central Asia. Bye

Thank you Gustavo! Hope you make it here!

Hey, thanks for the nice article! One correction from a Georgian: the fact that historically there were many Armenians and they felt like home in Tbilisi (at one point they even outnumbered ethnic Georgians) doesn’t mean ”much of Tbilisi’s old town was historically Armenian” as you write, coz Tbilisi (meaning ”place of warmth” in Georgian) evolved particularly as a Georgian capital and main political thoroughfare through centuries, despite its multi-ethnic character. Much like the old Persian influence on Tbilisi’s culture and architecture doesn’t make it ”historically Persian” either.

Thanks for clarifying, Lasha. No doubt that Tbilisi is Georgian through and through 🙂 The mix of different influences (especially in the Old Town architecture) is one of the things I love most about the city!

My daughter and I are leaving for our first trip to Armenia in the summer of 2020. I read your blog and look forward to my trip! Thank you, now I know more about Armenia! Nice photos!

Thank you Tori! Have a wonderful trip!

Hi Emily! Thank you for all you have done! Your job is amazing! Even it helped me a lot l have difficulties apling for online visa for Georgia as my foto can not upload few times. Even l took foto 3 times from the foto studio they foloow the dimension still can not. Any advise? Or someone’s experience like this? Thank you 🌷🙏

Hi Cvetanka, Sorry to hear you’re having difficulties. I would recommend contacting the consulate/visa office through the website, they should be able to help. Good luck and happy travels!

Hi! Interesting reading! We are some Swedes planning to drive to Georgia and Armenia next summer – and spend about 3-4 weeks driving around and experiencing these apparently super exciting countries. Do you have any special suggestions when it comes to driving? Places hard to reach otherwise, places worth visiting out of the way from normal tourists who don’t travel by car, things to think about, etc.

There are hidden gems everywhere! Open up Google Maps and take your pic. You can’t go wrong 🙂

Our family traveled to Armenia in May 2018. For intercity travel, we hired a driver instead of renting a car. We were so glad that we did! The cost was very reasonable and Davit, our driver was excellent. If you rent a car be aware that some of the roads look like a war zone. There are huge potholes that are beyond description. Make sure that you have insurance for damage to your rental beyond collision. Also, most Armenians use natural gas instead of gasoline for fuel as the former is much less expensive. Armenia is exquisitely beautiful and the people extraordinarily hospitable. Enjoy!

Emily: hi like everyone else I think your posts are brilliant, keep it up, they have helped me every so much in organizing my trip this sept/oct. my query is entering Azerbaijan. I have the visa all done and dusted but had to put down the day day I am entering. I have the 30 day visa and have 90 days for it my question is do I have to enter there on the day I mentioned or can I go later, can’t find any info on it. thanks for any help you or your followers can give.

Thanks for the kind words. Glad to hear that!

From the wording on the e-visa website, I do believe the visa is valid for 90 days from the date of issue (see point 5: https://evisa.gov.az/en/conditions ), meaning you can enter and activate the visa any date within that 90 day period.

You could try contacting the e-visa people or a consulate for clarification. There’s a form on the website I linked above. They are usually pretty responsive.

I hope this helps. Have a great trip!

Thanks so much for your article, it was a great read. I’m just wondering if you had a suggested travel plan between the three countries, given the fighting between Armenia and Azerbaijan. I already will be in Georgia, so will I need to go to one place first like Azerbaijan and then travel back to Georgia and then on to Armenia? Any info you can provide would be greatly appreciated, thanks 😊

Thanks for the kind words. I have a Caucasus itinerary post which you will hopefully find helpful: https://wander-lush.org/caucasus-travel-georgia-armenia-azerbaijan-itinerary/

I also have a Georgia Azerbaijan transport post which runs through the overland (long way) and overnight train (short version) options for getting between the two countries: https://wander-lush.org/baku-to-tbilisi-bus-travel-azerbaijan/

To answer your question: Yes, the border is closed, so you need to transit through Georgia (or another neighbouring country such as Iran (not Turkey)).

Happy travels!

Having travelled to Georgia twice and Azerbaijan once, I totally agree! I would caution though about hearing about conflicts from one side. For Azerbaijanis for example, Armenians committed genocide in 1918 and ethnic cleansing of Azerbaijanis in Karabakh as recently as the 90s.in a land recognized as Azerbaijani but occupied by Armenia in the 90s. I heard about the Armenian genocide but did not know it was a war between Armenia and Turkey and both sides committed the same atrocities. I hope conflicts are resolved in this beautiful part of the world.

Your report is concise and very useful. It definitely increased my interest in traveling to the area. Thank you very much.

George ,/ Brazil.

Glad to hear it, George!

Thank you so much for sharing your experience. We have always loved travelling to place less traveled by the Western world but our next trip (one month) is our first with our 7 month old baby. My Husband is really keen to explore the Caucasus region and, while I would LOVE to visit there, I’m unsure of the ease and health services there (should something go wrong). What are your thoughts

As a guide to my comfort levels – We traveled Iran, Jordan, Kyrgyzstan and Israel last year and I would be comfortable doing Iran, Jordan or Israel that with a bub, but not Kyrgyzstan (hard to find bottled water and health services – took us two days to find someone to remove my husbands stitches that he had needed when we were in Iran).

Is the Caucasus similar? Would we be confined to main cities?

Really appreciate your thoughts.

Thanks a lot for the comment. I know it’s a totally different story travelling with a baby, but I have a little bit of experience with this—my partner got sick in Azerbaijan and we ended up visiting a bunch of clinics in both AZ and Armenia (for blood work, IV drips and medication). I was really impressed with the quality of healthcare in Yerevan. Rural parts of the Caucasus would be a bit trickier, yes, but my overall impression is that the quality of healthcare is pretty good and very affordable.

Can you reach out to your travel insurance provider for some advice? We always contact them first for a list of recommended healthcare providers, just to put us at ease.

The other thing to remember is that Armenia and Georgia in particular are pretty compact, so you’re never more than a few hours away from a big city.

I’m so sorry to hear your partner was sick and needed medical treatment, but your experience does put my mind at ease.

Thank you so much for replying, this is a huge help. I’ll definitely reach out to our travel insurance provider.

My pleasure, Trish! All the best, and don’t hesitate to email if there’s anything else I can help with.

Thanks for this blog, Emily. Planning to tick off this tri-country trip this year. I’m a Philippine passport holder and a GCC resident. They say it’s visa-free in Georgia for GCC residents. I’m planning to travel from Dubai to Baku, then Baku to Tbilisi by train after a few days. Will that be okay in terms of immigration procedure? Will there be a difference since my entry will not be in Tbilisi Airport? Many thanks!

Hi Angela! Glad to hear that—I’m sure you’ll love it!

I can’t give specific visa advice, but as far as I know, immigration/visa requirements are the same no matter which port you’re entering through, unless it was specified differently when you applied. You should double check with the consulate/visa office to be safe.

Thanks for all the extensive info in this region, exactly what I was looking for! I am looking about 5 weeks to do all 3 three countries, but I think this probably is not enough time, is it? Do you have any recommendations on must-see things, the order of the country visits or any hikes to do? Many thanks!!!

I think that’s a good amount of time, Ella! Did you see my Caucasus itinerary post? That will answer your questions 🙂

Im flying to Causasus region next May. Read that u stayed in an airbnb in Tbilis that u enjoyed a lot. Could u tell me the link, pls? I m from Brazil and I ll be w a friend from Ireland.

Tks a lote !!

Happy to share the link for Pikria and Nino’s place: https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/14030862

If that’s not available, we also stayed at (and recommend) Lasha’s place: https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/18279935

Have a wonderful trip to Tbilisi!

We are heading to all three countries in June July and Aug this year from Australia. I really enjoyed this article and would love some must visits. We like to be away from cities where possible

Sounds great, Gill! Check out my Georgia-Armenia-Azerbaijan itinerary post. Everything you need is in there.

Have a wonderful trip!

Nice article but not so subtle American bashing. You could have simply wrote that meeting a traveler from Kazakhstan is interesting. I’ve met bus loads of tourists of many nationalities (including Australian) that aren’t my cup of tea but I just move on and focus on the positive instead of complaining.

No complaints here! Many of my friends are from the US and I travel with them regularly. It’s nice to meet someone from a culture that’s very different to my own, and I experienced that often as I was travelling around the Caucasus. Bus loads of tourists of any nationality are not really really my cup of tea. I simply meant that the Caucasus is a great part of the world to break away from the group tours and large cohorts of people (well, for now at least!).

Happy travels, Emily

I’ve been appreciating your content and perspectives on travel, but as an American it was kind of jarring to see you describe American tourists as hordes. I know we don’t have the best reputation as travelers, but I doubt the fanny-pack stereotypes are coming to the Caucasus en masse.

Certainly not – it was intended as more of a comparison to my other travel experiences elsewhere in the world. No offence intended.

Thanks for these great tips! We are looking at making this trip this year with our little boy who will be 3 years old.

I have recently started a blog about his travels and hope to add our experience in the Caucasus – I have detailed my link below in case you’d like a little read 🙂

A question please – do you know if you can make a day trip to Yerevan from Tblisi? Happy to take private car due to the attention span of a toddler!!

Many thanks in advance Karis

Thanks so much for your comment! Your trip sounds great! To answer your question: Yes you can visit as a day trip. I saw plenty of tourism providers offering this as a package day tour deal in Tbilisi (and vice-versa in Yerevan). Of course I would recommend spending longer in Yerevan if you can.

Happy travels! Emily

Hi, Emily, Thank you so much for sharing your experiences in the Caucasus. There are indeed not many information available, let alone in such detail. It will be so useful for me and my partner as we will be going on a two-week trip to this region coming February. Really appreciate your posts.

Hi Kathryn,

I’m glad you’re finding my blog helpful! Please don’t hesitate to reach out if there’s something else I can help with.

Enjoy your trip—it’s a wonderful part of the world!

Best, Emily

thanks Emily. I have visited Georgia twice in the past, always in October (2016/2017). recently I found informations that the road up to Kazbegi is paved now, and Mestia to Ushguli will be done as well and providing an easy access to even very remote regions. I hope they develope carefully. in 2 weeks time, for xmas and new year I am planning to visit Armenia in the snow.

Hi Ralph, thanks for your comment! We’re hoping to visit the region again in summer 2019. The Mestia-Ushguli road was underway when we were last there. I agree—better roads are definitely needed, but I hope development is done carefully and with local input.

Enjoy Armenia!

Thanks for sharing your post it’s very amazing and informative too..Keep writing.

I liked the post… I have thought to go sightseeing again in the regions of Azerbaijan this month! One of the things I like most about this region are the rich places for sightseeing and entertainment and besides these buildings and houses reminds me of many movies… really is a wonderful place to visit in the summer season. I’ve met some regions of this country, and actually cooking has left me with water in my mouth. The city has restaurants with very tasty menus and also has great places for family outing. Thank you for sharing your experience with us about this country.

Thanks for your thoughts, Cleber! Azerbaijan is a great place to visit!

What a wonderful post! Thanks for writing it. Are there decent vegetarian (egg/cheese ok, but no meat/seafood) options while traveling in these countries?

Thanks, MC! Yes for sure—lots of vegetarian options, and some of the best salads I’ve eaten in my life.

Hi.. thanks for this detailed blog.. i wanted to know how did you travel in between countries? If by train then are we supposw to buy visa again while coming back to tbilisi from baku and yerevan from tbilisi.?

Yes that’s right, we travelled by train from Tbilisi to Baku, then from Tbilisi to Yerevan. Visa requirements will depend on your nationality—you should check with your nearest embassy or consulate.

Thanks for sharing your experience very beautiful post.

I love your blog about the Caucasus. Once i started i couldn’t stop reading. We are currently planning our honeymoon travels to Georgia and Armenia. It’s great to read a blog which focuses so much on the culture and the ‘real life’ caucasus. We have done a lot of travelling and always try to experience the cultures and try to live like the locals, so your information and experience has been inspiring.

I’m always asked this question about our travels. What was your most memorable experience?

Best wishes Ollie & Nemi

Hi Ollie & Nemi,

Thanks so much for your thoughtful message and the kind words. I’m so excited for you—you’re going to have an amazing time! What a place to travel for your honeymoon.

My most memorable experience was undoubtedly the lunches and afternoon teas we had with our Airbnb hosts in Tbilisi. We were so lucky to be welcomed into their home, and spent hours and hours chatting about Georgian history, culture and politics. I can’t tell you how warm and generous they were to us. We’re so excited to be going back to Georgia next year and catching up with them again!

If you are invited into someone’s home for a meal in Georgia, say yes.

Enjoy planning your trip, and please don’t hesitate to email me if there’s anything at all I might be able to help with.

Kindest, Emily

Hi Emily, I am planning on going to Azerbaijan in March 2019 as a female on my own. Do you think I will be safe?

Thanks for your comment. I’m glad to hear you’re travelling to AZ!

It depends a bit on where you’re travelling to and the sorts of things you’ll be doing. We stuck to the tourist trail (Baku, Quba, Sheki) and never felt unsafe. I think generally, it’s a pretty safe country with a big police presence. Personally, I wouldn’t have any hesitation travelling there as a solo female.

I’m working on a post at the moment about safety in the Caucasus. Hopefully you’ll find it useful!

Such an insightful post – thank you for sharing this!

I also loved reading your Tbilisi guide. We are headed to Georgia next week, and I’ll be using a lot of the stuff you’ve shared here.

Thank you, Chaitali! I hope you love Tbilisi and Georgia as much as we did!

This is wonderful stuff, so much excellent information and right up-to-date. We ( a couple in their 70s) spent two weeks travelling from Baku to Yerevan back in 2016, and were so taken with the region we’re going back next month, for a month, and taking 10 friends with us. I’ve had the best time planning it and am so looking forward to introducing our friends to the delights of travelling in these countries.

Hi Leyle! That’s fantastic. It will be interesting to see how much things have changed since 2016. I feel like most people want to return once they’ve been to the Caucasus once… We will be back in Georgia next year, hopefully.

Thanks for your kind words and I hope you have a wonderful trip!

Great post! I’m one of these Polish tourists who benefit from cheap Wizzair flights to Georgia. But this year I’m bringing my boyfriend there who’s from another country and doesn’t know much about Caucasus get 🙂

Ohh, one of the lucky ones! We met so many Polish tourists on our trip—I actually hadn’t ever heard of Wizzair before I went to Georgia.

How special that you’ll get to show him around! I hope you have a great trip!

Just by the pictures alone, I already feel like going there!

I know what you mean, Hank! It’s an incredible beautiful part of the world.

Hope you make it!

Such a helpful post, thanks! I’m planning a (vague) trip with a friend and all of the research we’ve done totally failed to mention the impassable borders and international relations. We only have a very short time – do you think we’d manage to sample both Tbilisi and the Caucasus in a week, or we’d be better choosing one or the other?

Thanks so much for the feedback, Cat! I’m really glad you found it helpful. I am putting together a few sample Caucasus itineraries now and hope to have a post published by the end of the month.

How much time do you have? You could spend a decent amount of time in Tbilisi and still see a bit of Georgia (Kazbegi, Kakheti, Gori—all good for a day/overnight trip). With the overnight trains, you could pretty easily add Yerevan or Baku without losing much time, then travel overland back to Tbilisi and see a bit more of Armenia and/or Georgia.

Shoot me an email and maybe we can discuss your options more!

Excellent post. I had read it’s history before I went to Caucasus. But it still caught me by surprise. One does not imagine how can such a beautiful place can have a history with so much misery and tragedy.

Thank you, James. It took me by surprise, too. And it wasn’t very long ago that the region was facing tough times. The courage and warmth of the people I met in the Caucasus was overwhelming.

I’m actually in Georgia Tiflis right now. This place took me by surprise and amazed me to a point I ‘ve seldom experienced. If you are planning to come and visit the incredible museum offer don’t do it during good friday week. The museums ALL close for an extended religious holiday that will last not until easter sunday but until the next tuesday of the upcoming week. It felt like my sponge cake suddenly deflated when somebody accidentally open the oven.

Oh no! Sorry to hear that. I was in Yerevan for Orthodox Easter last year and nothing really seemed to close down. That’s a great tip for other travellers. There are lots of free things to do while the museums are closed—I have a post called ‘Awesome Things to do in Tbilisi’ that you might find helpful.

Glad to hear that Tbilisi has amazed you!

Very helpful blog. Thank you for that. 🙂

I was wondering… me and my friends are planning a 2 weeks trip from Tbilisi to Baku. What are in your opinion the most inportant stops we should take during this 2 weeks. I would be very glad for your answer.

Thank yoooouuu:))

Hi Beata! Thanks a lot! You can check out my itinerary post for my recommendations in Georgia and Azerbaijan 🙂

https://wander-lush.org/8-weeks-2-months-caucasus-georgia-armenia-azerbaijan-itinerary/

Please let me know if there’s anything else I can help with! Enjoy your trip!

Seems amazing trip and experience 🙂 Thanks for sharing! So what is the order in which you visited the three countries? Azerbaijan, Georgia and the Armenia?

Hi Danai, thanks a lot!

We went from Georgia to Azerbaijan to Armenia (via Georgia, because the Armenia/Azerbaijan border is closed) back to Georgia. You can see our itinerary here: https://wander-lush.org/8-weeks-2-months-caucasus-georgia-armenia-azerbaijan-itinerary/

Thank you for sharing this! I am currently obsessed with reading everything I can about the cuisine from The Caucasus. I hope to travel there in the next year to taste everything I possibly can.

Do you have any restaurant recommendations, in the chance I do indeed make it there this year?

Thanks so much.

Hi Elisabeth! The food is outstanding! I have a post about my favourite dishes and restaurants in Tbilisi ( http://wander-lush.org/tbilisi-georgia-food-best-restaurants-cafes-guide/ ), and you can find restaurant and cafe recommendations in my posts for Batumi and Kakheti.

After reading this, can‘t wait to start my journey in June to Georgia and explore all the beautiful sights and regions – especially our planend hikes through the caucasus region Svanetien.

Hi Rosi! You lucky thing—that sounds amazing! So glad you liked the post. Have a wonderful trip!

Thank you so much for all this valuable information! I currently live in Kazakhstan and we are planning a December trip to the Caucasus region. After reading all your wonderful blogs, we’ve decided to give each country the time it deserves to fully embrace their beauty and uniqueness. I can’t wait to explore the region!

Edith, I’m so happy to hear that! You are going to love the Caucasus! Enjoy your trip planning and please feel free to contact me if there’s anything I can help with. Thanks so much for reading!

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Armenia turns towards west in search of allies amid Azerbaijan tensions

Series of traumatic defeats has prompted a rethink in what was once seen as the most pro-Moscow of the ex-Soviet republics

W ith its waterfall, hot spring, orchards full of apricot blossom and a gorge through which the swollen Arpa River races, the town of Jermuk since Soviet times has been one of the most visited in Armenia. That was until just after midnight on 12 September 2022 when Azerbaijani forces surged over the border , advancing about 4 miles in a two-day push that left them in full control of the long mountain ridge overlooking the town.

“It was truly frightening. The forest was set on fire. It was like lightning coming down on us. It went on for two days. We did not know how it would end, and how to get our families out,” recalled Rubik Avakelyan, 69, sitting on a park bench.

The initial three-hour attack included mortars, heavy artillery and drones. The whole town now lives in fear of a further attack. “We did not know which way to turn, but I do not see much future here,” Avakelyan said.

Closer to the frontline, buildings and a fish farm lie abandoned, adding to the sense of foreboding and decay that contested borders can bring.

“The Azeris are fortifying their positions and we think when the snow is over they are planning something else,” said Vahagn Arsenyan, the mayor of the 9,000-strong town. “We expect a new aggression at any time, and right now and here where we are sitting in this office is a visible target for them. They have damaged us economically and psychologically. The hotel rooms were usually 90% occupied.”

Tourism income is down 60% as visitors are put off by the presence of Azerbaijan’s forces only 3 miles away. “If there is no economy, families want to leave,” Arsenyan said.

The quest for suitable allies is a constant in Armenia’s history, as testified to by a statue of a 17th-century Armenian diplomat, Israel Ori, on the outskirts of town. Ori dedicated his life to the country’s liberation from the Persian and Ottoman empires. He travelled through Europe fruitlessly in search of countries willing to help liberate Armenia , before finally arriving at the court of Peter the Great to plead: “We do not have another hope, we hope for God and your country.”

Armenia’s prime minister, Nikol Pashinyan, is caught in a similar predicament. He has invested hope in building alliances to fend off the “Turks”, as many Armenians call the Azeris. However, it is not to a distracted Russia that he has turned but to the west, a gamble for this lonely democracy in a region of authoritarianism.

It is a remarkable turnaround for a country that used to get 98% of its arms from Russia and was seen as probably the most pro-Moscow of the former Soviet republics at the time of the Soviet Union’s dissolution in 1991.

Pashinyan came to power in a velvet revolution in 2018. Faced with intractable conflicts, he did not initially seek to break the security partnership with Russia. Landlocked, with two of its four borders – with Turkey and Azerbaijan – closed, Pashinyan could hardly afford to alienate Russia in what Moscow regarded as its back yard.

But a rethink has been prompted by a series of traumatic defeats at the hands of the better trained and better armed Azerbaijan in 2020 and 2022, followed by the expulsion of more than 100,000 Armenians from the enclave of Nagorno-Karabakh in September 2023. On the latter two occasions, Russia, burdened by the war in Ukraine, failed to come to Armenia’s protection, in effect trashing security guarantees.

Popular anger at the perceived betrayal by Russian peacekeepers, especially among some of the expelled refugees from Nagorno-Karabakh , is intense.

Sitting in a rudimentary government-provided flat in the capital, Yerevan, Ruslan Hayrapetyan, a former police officers, said he repeatedly went to the Russian peacekeepers with carefully documented incidents of Azeri attacks on farmers, only to be told by the Russians: “Do you think we are here to die for you?”

His wife, Nina, said that as Azerbaijan pushed into the enclave after an eight-month food blockade, her family spent two days hiding from the shelling in shelters and were then told that the best that Russians could do was open a road out of their town, Martuni, to the capital, and from there they would be taken on buses through the Lachin corridor to Armenia.

She said the town administrator told them: “In 10 hours the Azeris will enter the town. You may stay, but I will remind you of the massacres of 1915. You will be tortured, raped and beheaded.”

Ethnic Armenians fled what had been their homeland for generations, in what they regarded as a piece of ethnic cleansing, and some of their captured political leaders still languish in jails in Azerbaijan. Pashinyan, in an interview with a group of British journalists, admitted he believed the refugees now scattered around Armenia would never be able to return.

The episode caused the rupture in Armenian-Russian relations and further polarised an already divided Armenian society. Russia’s peacekeepers have this month left Nagorno-Karabakh ahead of schedule. In a sign of an ideological chasm, the speaker of the Armenian parliament this week attacked Russia’s Ukraine policy, leading to claims of Russophobia from Moscow.

National assembly members complain that Azerbaijan seems unconstrained and determined to raise more demands. “My profession, international law, is dead,” said Vladimir Vardanyan, the chair of the legal affairs committee. He warned of a new era of imperialism in which countries such as his own were squeezed.

“Each and every empire has been interested in increasing its land, and since we currently have a situation where the traditional alliances built at Potsdam [and] Yalta are no longer operating, sovereignty becomes ever more vulnerable,” he said. “It’s important we build a consensus about the future of this region because if we do not, we will have a more imperialistic world than in the 19th century.”

In his tiny office in Yerevan, Tigran Grigoryan, an articulate thinktanker, blamed the “fiasco” in Nagorno-Karabakh on the fact that the war in Ukraine had distracted and weakened Russia. He said: “Relations with Azerbaijan turned out to be more important for Russia than fulfilling its obligations to Armenia. President Ilham Aliyev [of Azerbaijan] has seen this power vacuum and the military imbalance between the two countries to make threats and extract ever more unilateral concessions.”

This month Pashinyan ceded four unoccupied border villages in the north-eastern province of Tavush back to Azerbaijani control after three decades. It was billed as the first step in the negotiated process of defining the borders between the two countries along the boundaries that existed at the time of the Soviet Union’s dissolution.

Accused by the opposition of endless capitulation, Pashinyan insisted the alternative would have been war. The deal sparked days of protests by villagers, leading to as many as 80 arrests in the capital.

Emotions had already been running high since it was the anniversary of the Armenian genocide, a time when tens of thousands of Armenians, carrying carnations and roses, process to the monument that commemorates a genocide that not all countries, including the UK, recognise.

“Virtually everyone in Armenia has one ancestor or relative who was either killed in the genocide or forced to leave its ancestral home,” Rubinyan said.

The most visible example of the pivot has been since February 2023 the deployment of a 200-strong unarmed EU civilian monitoring mission that has already amassed more than 2,000 patrols from six bases on the Armenian side of the border. With their blue flags, Jeeps and binoculars, they observe Azerbaijani troop movements and send copious daily reports back to Brussels. The staff seem convinced they provide reassurance when tensions and disinformation flourish.

Markus Ritter, the mission’s director, defended its limited objectives. “We can calm things down. We have become a stabilising factor,” he said. “If you compare the situation before the deployment and afterwards, there is a difference.”

But in parts of southern Armenia, Russia blocks his observers from operating. Ritter admitted: “This is a country that is desperately looking for friends and allies.”

Armenia is now buying weapons from India and France, and on 5 April the EU and the US pledged to provide Armenia with €270m and $65m respectively.

The new partnership is designed to start easing Armenia’s heavy dependence on the Russian markets and energy. But it is a very modest package, prompting one Armenian diplomat to complain privately: “I fear we are being led like lambs to the slaughter.”

• Nagorno-Karabakh

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