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Best touring bikes: Machines for old-school, long distance riding

The best touring bikes to load up for the long haul or just for local load-lugging

• How to choose

The best touring bikes are designed to be loaded up for comfortable long-distance riding, but they're also a robust, reliable option for local riding with a load or just for commuting .

They're a bit old school now, with bikepacking being the trendy fast and light way to ride far, either on one of the best endurance bikes or the best gravel bikes . The availability and range of models reflect that trend, although touring bikes still offer a great way to see the world.

They're built strong, often with a steel frame and fork and have reliable wheels with plenty of spokes for strength, as well as a wide gear range, which may be via a triple chainset with a smaller range of "speeds" in the cassette or hub gear. Expect an upright ride position and comfortable touchpoints.

Luggage is normally carried in panniers and bags attached to a rear rack, often supplemented by a front rack, as well as a bar bag. Mudguards are also normal, making riding more comfortable in all weathers, while multiple bottle cages mean that you can keep hydrated even when you're far from a tap.

Below, you'll find our pick of the best touring bikes and below that is our buyer's guide to how to choose the best touring bike for you.

Best touring bikes: our picks

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This Genesis touring bike option comes fully loaded, with front and rear racks, lights and a bottle cage, while its 35mm wide tyres give a comfortable ride. There's a Shimano Tiagra triple chainset, which gives a total of thirty gear ratios, which head below 1:1 for loaded climbing. 

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Another steel-framed tourer with many of the extras you'll need already there. The Kona Sutra has a high ride position and is equipped with a Brooks leather saddle for a retro touring vibe, although the disc brakes and wide gear range keep it up to date.

Yet another steel-framed option with front and rear racks and an upright ride, the Salsa Marrakesh has 3x9-speed gearing and mechanical disc brakes. Its 42mm Teravail tyres should provide comfort and grip wherever you travel.

Another long-haul steel model, the Disc Trucker has a very upright ride position thanks to its riser stem and yet more rise to its bars. A triple chainset that goes as low as a 26x34t ratio helps with long rides over steep roads.

With 42mm WTB Resolute tyres, the Marin Four Corners is a bike that can handle poor road conditions. The steel frame and fork are robust, while the triple chainset, nine-speed gearing and mechanical disc brakes should prove reliable. 

The Giant Toughroad takes a slightly different tack from most touring bikes, with flat bars, an alloy frame and carbon fork. Its 50mm wide tyres and very wide gear range equip it for off-road adventures.

Best touring bikes

1. genesis tour de fer 30, specifications, reasons to buy, reasons to avoid.

The Genesis Tour De Fer is a great option in this category. It's a top all-round bike, featuring a solid steel frame, durable tyres, disc brakes and all the practicalities such as three bottle cages, front and rear racks, mudguards and dynamo-powered lights.

Simply put, this is a bike ready for whatever you need to do straight away, whether it's commuting, leisure riding or touring. The bike offers an easy, calm ride, and is comfortable enough to get on and go right away.

35mm Schwalbe Marathon tyres come as standard, with their puncture-proof reputation. The Shimano Tiagra triple groupset gives you plenty of range including a sub-1:1 ratio to haul your loaded bike up the hills. You might need that range, with the extra features adding significantly to the bike's weight though.

2. Surly Disc Trucker

Another do-anything bike, the Disc Trucker features a sturdy and good-looking steel frame and fork. It is, however, more suited to road riding than exploring gravel and mud, though it's not to say that you can't tackle gravel tracks with it. The rise to the bars, paired with a long head tube gives a comfortable all-day ride position.

Mounts for three bottles, a pump, and mudguards add to the practicality, while the tyre clearance will let you get some meaty rubber in there. Surly quotes 2.1" tyre clearance on 650b wheels and the smaller frame sizes come specced with this wheel size for better toe clearance.

A Shimano Alivio MTB triple groupset with Sora road shifters provides steady and reliable 9-speed shifting, although it's quite a low end spec. Like the Genesis and the Trek, the Disc Trucker relies on TRP Spyre mechanical disc brakes for reliable, low-maintenance stopping power.

3. Giant Toughroad SLR 1

What do you get when you combine a mountain bike, a touring bike and a gravel bike? No, this isn't the start of one of your dad's jokes, you get the impressively capable Toughroad SLR 1. More suited to the offroad than any of the bikes we've looked at so far, Giant calls it a do-it-all bike capable of commuting, but make no mistake, it's built primarily for dirt and gravel.

There's no suspension fork, but the giant 50mm tyres are a dead giveaway. An 11-42 MTB cassette on the back will also help with tackling the steep stuff, although there's not the absolute range of the triple chainsets on the bikes above. Pannier racks front and back and three bottle cage mounting points mean you can pile on whatever you need to take with you.

There are plenty of modern features on the bike, including thru-axles, hydraulic brakes, and tubeless tyres. A reliable Giant wheelset and Shimano Deore groupset round off this bike. You might find the lack of variation in hand position with the flat bar configuration gets tiring on longer rides though.

4. Kona Sutra

The first thing to strike you about the Sutra is its retro features; the Brooks leather saddle and steel frame give a different look to many of the bikes we've looked at. Disc brakes and thru-axles remind you that this is a thoroughly modern bike, though.

It's another bike for touring and commuting on the road and on some gravel/dirt surfaces. Mudguards and front and rear pannier racks are included, while there are other bosses for more additions if needed.

The 10-speed Shimano GRX gravel groupset with Tiagra shifters gives plenty of range, although not as much as a triple like that specified on the Trek, while the hybrid hydraulic/cable-operated brakes should give a bit more stopping power than the TRP Spyre cable brakes specced elsewhere, they are more of a faff to maintain though. It's a classy-looking bike that can work well anywhere.

5. Salsa Marrakesh

A great-looking steel frame is the first thing to catch the eye on this bike, while the fat 42mm tyres give a signal as to its intentions. It's as comfortable off-road as on, whether you're touring, commuting or just riding for fun.

As with the bikes above, front and rear racks are included, though if you want to add mudguards, be warned that the wide tyres will need to go on a diet ­– down to a 40mm maximum.

It's a solid entry into the touring selection, even if it is a bit on the weighty side, however, though not so much that you'll be struggling under the weight. Components include a Shimano Alivio groupset with Microshift shifters as well as TRP Spyre-C disc brakes and wheels and tyres ready to be set up tubeless.

6. Marin Four Corners

The Marin Four Corners is part tourer, part gravel bike. It's got the clearance for really wide tyres on 650b wheels (which is the stock wheel size specced on smaller-sized frames), but you can also set it up for a more traditional touring configuration with 700c wheels.

The steel frame is bombproof while the long head tube gives an upright ride position so you've got plenty of visibility all around. There are mounts for a rack, mudguards and to lash extra kit to the fork legs, so you can load up to head into the unknown. It's a bike more geared to gravel than the road, unlike the more traditional tourers like the Kona and the Genesis.

7. Trek 520

Marketed as a bike for long-haul travel, the Trek 520 is the longest-running bike in Trek's stable, although its days look to be numbered. The 520 is no longer sold in the UK or US, but international buyers in some countries still have a choice of two specs on Trek's site, including the Sora/Alivio option above.

Like the Genesis, the Trek 520 comes with front and rear racks, although you'll have to add mudguards for all-weather use. Small updates include mechanical disc brakes with a thru-axle alloy fork, while the 9-speed Shimano Sora gearing provides massive range from its triple chainset, albeit with quite large jumps across the 11-36 tooth cassette.

It's also nice to see tubeless-ready wheels specced (although not the tyres), so you can set up tubeless, which should up dependability on long rides. 

How to choose the best touring bike for you

Whether you're looking for a practical way to get to work, want that extra durability so that your bike will stand the test of time or want to travel to far-flung corners of the earth with nothing but a tent and a change of clothes, a touring bike a great addition to your stable of steeds. 

You can still get around quickly – whether you're hitting the roads, gravel paths or other rough terrain – but plenty of space for mudguards and racks, as well as a more relaxed position, make a touring bike a better all-round option than a road bike, a hybrid or a mountain bike. 

The relaxed geometry and more upright riding position are also handy for commuting, and the best touring bikes are often built with durable, easy-to-maintain components so they can be fixed when hundreds of miles away from a bike shop. This lends itself to fewer mechanicals and lower running costs. Steel frames also have a far better chance of being repaired all over the world compared to aluminium or carbon fibre if you're on a big trip.

What types of touring bike are there?

Touring bikes can range anywhere from predominantly road-going bikes with horizontal top tubes and 700c tyres, to rugged mountain bikes with knobbly mountain bike tyres. 

What the best touring bikes tend to share, however, is a durable design, comfortable geometry and the ability to carry luggage. Some opt for bikepacking bags , which usually consist of frame bags and oversized saddle bags, whereas others opt for the traditional rack and pannier bag method of carrying luggage. 

As with any bike purchase, consider the riding you plan to do with the bike. For those looking to travel far and wide, a bike with more luggage-carrying capacity will be preferred. For those who are looking to travel off-road, look for a bike that can handle the rough stuff. Live in the mountains? Look for a wide gear range. 

What's different about touring bike geometry?

Touring bike frames feature a relaxed geometry , with a taller head tube and shorter top tube for a comfortable and more upright riding position compared to a racing road bike. In addition to this, they feature a longer wheelbase, which keeps the bike stable even when loaded with heavy luggage. Since they're designed to be cycled over long distances, they're equally designed to stay comfortable for as long as possible.

If you're a geometry nerd you may notice the trail is a little lower than you'd expect for a relaxed ride, but this is often done to counteract the slowing effect on the steering of a heavy front load to avoid the bike feeling like a barge when laden.

Which gearing should a touring bike have?

Gearing-wise, what you should pick really depends on what type of riding you'll be doing. If you're taking on hills regularly, then you'll want a cassette with larger sprockets on the back. Some touring bikes offer a triple chainset too, with easier gearing on offer compared to a double chainset. The addition of extra gear combinations into the mix will add an extra component to maintain, so those on flatter terrain might prefer a single chainring at the front.

The majority of touring bikes offer standard external gear systems – the chainset, chain and cassette we're all used to. Some do have internal gearing though, with an enclosed rear gearbox which requires a lot less maintenance and is less prone to damage but is heavier and will cost you more. Belt drives are also available – this is a multi-tooth belt instead of a chain, so no regular cleaning or lubrication is required. Hub gears like the Rohloff system are favoured by riders taking on huge worldwide tours for their durability. 

Should I look for rim brakes or disc brakes?

As with much of the cycling world, rim brakes and disc brakes are both available, with rim brakes found more often on lower-end bikes. Rim brakes feature two pads grabbing onto the wheel rims to stop the bike, while disc brakes grip onto a separate rotor on the wheels instead.

Disc brakes feature better and more consistent braking performance, which is useful for a heavily laden bike, and are better in wet weather, though. Both adjustment and maintenance are far easier with rim brakes, however, with an Allen key and some new pads all you really need.

Rim brakes will wear down your rim eventually, prompting a rim swap and wheel rebuild or a new wheel. Whereas that's not an issue with disc brakes, and there's more leeway to keep riding with a buckled disc brake wheel or a broken spoke.

Hydraulic disc brakes are generally maintenance-free in operation, however, if you snag your brake hose on a tree in the middle of the Atlas Mountains, there's little chance of repair unless you packed a bleed kit and spare hose. 

What should I look for in touring bike contact points?

Saddles are an important factor, being the main point of contact with your body. Padded saddles may look more comfortable but looks can be deceiving, with thinner padding usually better for you once you've gotten used to it after a few rides. Saddles should support your sit bones, and additional padding can move the pressure elsewhere and rub more, making things more uncomfortable over time.

If you're planning a long trip and already have a saddle that you like, it may be worth swapping out the saddle that comes with the bike, if you're not sure how comfortable it will be for the long haul.

On a multi-day trip, handlebars need to be comfortable as well. Some bars have a slight rearward sweep, which can feel more natural when riding on the tops. A shallow drop is likely to be more comfortable to use as well.

Which pedals should I choose?

It's worth choosing pedals wisely too. While the best road bike pedals give good power transfer, the best cycling shoes that work with them are difficult to walk in, which could be an issue if touring or even for a trip to the shops.

On the other hand, flat pedals may make it difficult to keep your feet well-positioned for longer rides. They will allow you to use standard shoes, which are easier to walk in, but unless the soles are relatively stiff, your pedalling will be less efficient and you may get foot ache after a long day riding without adequate support.

Gravel bike pedals are a good option, as they still let you clip in for more efficient riding, but the cleats are recessed on the sole of the shoes and so can be walked in much more easily. You'll need gravel shoes to go with them that accept two-bolt cleats. These will have soles designed for efficient pedalling and foot support, but most are not too stiff to walk in comfortably.

Alternatively, some of the best commuter cycling shoes also allow you to fit two-bolt cleats.

You can learn more about the pros and cons of two-bolt versus three-bolt pedals in our explainer.on Shimano SPD vs SPD-SL systems.

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Paul has been on two wheels since he was in his teens and he's spent much of the time since writing about bikes and the associated tech. He's a road cyclist at heart but his adventurous curiosity means Paul has been riding gravel since well before it was cool, adapting his cyclo-cross bike to ride all-day off-road epics and putting road kit to the ultimate test along the way. Paul has contributed to Cyclingnews' tech coverage for a few years, helping to maintain the freshness of our buying guides and deals content, as well as writing a number of our voucher code pages. 

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Best touring bikes 2024: tourers for adventures on two wheels

Although there are many bikes capable of cycle trips, the best touring bikes remain the optimal tool for longer journeys

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Our pick of the best touring bikes

What to look for in a touring bike.

The allure of the open road is one of cycling’s enduring themes. Touring by bicycle allows for this on a grand scale, travelling for several days, often in far-flung places with all your kit strapped to the bike. Of course, micro-adventures closer to home can be just as much fun and still keep the spirit of adventure alive.

Whether you’re planning an expedition abroad or fancy exploring more local roads in far greater detail, a touring bike is the ideal tool for the job. Designed for cycling long distances in comfort, the bikes should be both stable and reliable in their handling, as well as providing all the mounts you need for pannier racks and bags and mudguards . Self-sufficiency is one of the tenets of cycling touring, so the bikes are usually designed with ease of maintenance in mind, too.

The good news for touring cyclists is that the range of bikes available to cater for their needs has grown substantially in the last few years.

In this guide, we've rounded up the more traditional options. If you're thinking of going off-road, perhaps investigate gravel orientated options in our buying guide here , and if you plan to go quick and travel light, see endurance road bikes here .

There's more on what to look for in a touring bike below - but first, here are our top picks of the best touring bikes.

Genesis Tour de Fer 30 touring bike

Specifications, reasons to buy, reasons to avoid.

This is a bike that's been created exclusively to provide a comfortable and practical ride for a touring cyclist. The Reynolds 725 Heat-Treated Chromoly frame promises a springy ride and an incredibly strong base.

The 160mm rotor mechanical disc brakes are a more modern introduction with a nod to practicality, especially in the wet. Although we’ve found mechanical TRP Spyre brake calipers aren’t quite as powerful or as easy to modulate as a hydraulic brakeset, they are easy to adjust and highly reliable – perfect for a long-distance tour.

A 10-speed Shimano Tiagra drivetrain is about right for a bike at this price point, but in our experience, a 50/39/30 crankset provides gears that are just a bit too big for cycle touring – particularly over hilly terrain. 

But you can always swap this out for a smaller ringed option down the line. We find that with a cassette of 11-34t, going for a granny ring of 26t is generally a good bet.

We’ve always found Schwalbe’s Marathon tyres to be highly puncture resistant and with a good wear rate. In 35c, these are capable of traversing broken roads and tamer gravel, but if you’re planning on spending a large amount of time off road you would want something a bit plumper.

Handily, this bike come with many of the accessories we think are a must. Firstly, mudguards, but also dynamo powered front and rear lights, bottle cages and the Tubus pannier racks front and rear.

Surly Disc Trucker

A spin-off of Surly's much-revered Long Haul Trucker, the Disc Trucker keeps many of the much-loved versatility and can-do attitude, but this time with the addition of mechanical disc brakes and thru-axles – unlike the Genesis Tour de Fer 30 which has disc brakes and QR axles.

Opinion is a little split on thru-axles for touring – if you have any catastrophic issues with your hubs in more remote countries, you're unlikely to be able to find a replacement locally. That said, those kind of hub issues are quite rare and if it does happen you can always get a replacement sent out. For the improved alignment between the rotor and the caliper, we think the benefits outweigh the negatives.

A multitude of braze-on mount means the Disc Trucker is capable of running front and rear bags, full-coverage fenders, two water bottles, a spare spoke and even a pump peg. However, in not coming with these accessories, you will have to factor these into the cost, making the value for money a little less than the Genesis Tour de Fer 30 or the Kona Sutra.

With both 26" and 700c wheel build options available, the Disc Trucker can be as adventurous as you choose. The 26" (in sizes 42-58cm) is capable of taking up to 2.1" tires, while the 700c version (in sizes 56-64cm) has room for up to 42mm tires — both with fenders.

Although touring bikes generally do have a more relaxed position than a typical road bike, designed as they are for comfortably covering long distances, the Disc Trucker does have a particularly high front end. This isn't necessarily a problem, but if you are coming from a road cycling background, you may find just such an elevated position a little uncomfortable 

Made from a CroMoly Steel, the Disc Trucker comes equipped with a Shimano Alivio/Sora drivetrain, with the 48/36/26 triple Alivio crankset and 11-34 9-speed Shimano cassette provides a gearing range we find to be a great balance between top-end speed and low-end winching – particularly if you’re planning on maxing out the rider and kit weight limit of 161kg (355lb).

Kona Sutra All Road touring bike

The gloss black Sutra is made from Kona 's Cromoly steel frame and is kitted out with smooth-rolling Schwalbe Marathon Mondial 700x40c tires on WTB STi23 rims, which are now tubeless-compatible.

The current model has replaced the previous Shimano Deore 3x10 drivetrain with 2x10 chainset from Shimano's GRX gravel range. It's a move that's unlikely to please the touring purists. The 46/30t chainrings are matched with a 11-36t cassette, which sees the bike's gearing range reduced. It should still see you up the steep climbs, just perhaps not in as much comfort as before.

Gone too are the bar-end shifters, replaced with Shimano 10-speed Tiagra road shifters. Again it's quite the change, moving the Sutra from a traditional tourer into a far more modern interpretation. It reduces some of the bike's previous mechanical simplicity, which is appealing if your tours are long and overseas. That said the move to STI levers will appeal if you're used to riding a regular bike.

Another nod to modernity are the TRP disc brakes, which are blend of mechanical and hydraulic, and the frame's thru-axles.

With a Brooks B17 leather saddle, mudguards and a front pannier rack finishing off this tourer, this good-looking bike oozes style.

The leather Brooks saddle does require a bit more care than what you might be used to – it need to be kept covered from heavy rain and needs a semi regular application of cream to keep the leather supple. But by functioning essentially as a hammock, it is exceptionally comfortable and only gets better over time as it moulds to your shape – it wears in, rather than out..

Ridgeback Voyage

Classic styling never goes out of date - and the vintage-looking Voyage has got it by the bucket load, though a redesign means that modern tech has not been overlooked.

The Ridgeback Voyage uses Reynolds 520 tubing for the frame, with a CroMoly steel fork. A rack and full mudguards (fenders) come as standard. 

The Shimano 48/36/26t triple chainset paired with an 11-34 cassette offers a good range of gearing although with relatively large jumps between the gears due to having just nine gears at the rear. 

We don’t find this to be too much of an issue when taking it steady on a cycle tour but would prefer something a little tighter if multiple very high mileage days are planned.

Shifting and braking is taken care of by Shimano's reliable Sora levers and Tektro cantilever rim brakes. The latter certainly help make the Voyage a maintenance-friendly machine - easy to maintain and find replaces for, even in remote locations - although disc brakes may be a preferred choice for all-weather tourers.

Alex rims with a high spoke count are pretty dependable, even if not the flashiest and fitted with 32c Continental Contact tyres, they can handle a little off road, but are best suited to the tarmac.  

Trek 520 disc touring bike

Constructed from Trek's CroMoly steel, the frame has been designed around disc brakes and fitted with a rack and fenders mounts.

The Bontrager Affinity rims are tubeless-ready, which might be worth setting up if you want a bit of a faster ride when commuting. But for long-term touring it’s generally best to stick with inner tubes so as to avoid the added complication of sealant drying out. Bontrager’s 38c H1 hard-case Ultimate tyres offer good puncture resistance themselves.

The drivetrain is a mixture of Shimano parts with Sora shifters. The crankset is a triple, with 48/36/26 tooth chainrings, and the cassette is an 11-36 so you'll have ample gears when the road goes up. TRP Spyre C 2.0 mechanical disc mechanical discs look after stopping.

However, with only nine sprockets on the cassette, the jumps between the gears are a little large, as with the Ridgeback Voyage. But if this does cause you an issue, and if you find yourself not using all of the gears, you could fit a tighter range cassette for smaller jumps.

Like the Genesis Tour de Fer 30, the wheel axles are QR, which can make getting the rotor and caliper aligned properly a little more difficult than with a thru-axle system

The overall weight comes in at 14.26 kg / 31.4 lbs in a size 57, which is lighter than some of the more traditional options.

Cube Travel Pro Trapeze touring bike

Cube offers its Travel Pro tourer in both a traditional crossbar and step-through frame design, with the latter making mounting and dismounting this robust, aluminum bike easy and convenient.

The convenience theme is carried through much of the bike. It's equipped with a Shimano Nexus internal hub gear system and a Gates CDN Belt Drive system which offers super low maintenance compared with a more traditional chain and derailleur system.

With this eight-speed hub, the jumps between the gears is a little larger and the overall range a little lower than you can get with a derailleur system, and it's not quite as efficient. But that said, if you're planning on taking it steady on your cycle tour, those points are pretty immaterial compared to the benefit of much lower maintenance.  

There's plenty of clearance for extra-wide tires and the wheels are currently wrapped in Schwalbe's Marathon Almotion 29x2.15in rubber.

Finishing off this functional tourer are full-length fenders, an adjustable CUBE stand Pro kickstand, a Knog Oi bell, lights (front and rear), and a semi-integrated carrier for pannier bags; these features will have you covered for any adventure.

Salsa Marrakesh

The Marrakesh is designed to take you touring wherever you wish — including a trip around the world if necessary. The frame is built from 4130 CroMoly tubing and has a serious array of mounts. There's room for up to five bottle cages thanks to extra fork mounts plus it comes fitted with front and rear racks. There's even a mount to carry a spare spoke.

Elsewhere there are bar-end shifters and a 3x9-speed Shimano Alivio groupset. The gearing range is designed to get you up the steep stuff even when fully loaded thanks to 48/36/36 triple chainring paired with an 11-36t cassette. The shifters also make roadside maintenance a little easier.

Its world-touring credentials are further aided by its generous tire clearance - 700 x 40mm even with mudguards (fenders), and comes stock with Maxxis Roamer 42mm tires. This means you should eat up the miles in comfort even when the road gets rough.

It's difficult to lay out specific criteria when it comes to choosing a touring bike because the beauty of touring is that it can be whatever you want it to be – there is no single best touring bike for everyone, what is best for you depends on the type of tours you want to go on. However, there are key elements to consider when selecting your two-wheeled riding buddy, which will enable you to get the best touring bike for you.

Touring bike frame

If you're planning a longer trip, and intend the bike to be used primarily for such adventures, then the resilience and comfort of steel is a sensible choice. As such, most of the best touring bikes will feature this metal. The amount you're willing to invest will dictate the weight, strength and character of the steel you end up with.

When looking at steel touring bikes, expect to see the word 'Chromoly' a lot. This is a form of low alloy steel that is used when strength is particularly important. It takes its name from two of the primary alloying (mixing of metals) elements used: “chromium” and “molybdenum”.

If you're planning on using the bike for touring and other duties: club runs, commutes, shorter rides where speed might be more in your interest, consider aluminum or carbon .

Bikes suitable for touring will have a relaxed geometry: a shorter top tube and taller stack to put the rider in a more relaxed position. The wheelbase will be longer, to create a feeling of stability. You'll also notice that the chainstays are longer - this means panniers can be mounted without a chance of clipping your heels and it allows for better distribution when panniers are full.

Touring bike wheels

Elsewhere in the cycling world, we talk about low weight and aerodynamics when it comes to bicycle wheels. And sure, if you're aiming to break a world record on your cycle tour then those are probably still very important areas to consider.

However, if you mainly want to get to somewhere rather far away, and you'd like to arrive there with a wheel that's still true and contains the same number of spokes you left with, then a strong wheel is what you desire. Look for a higher spoke count that you might opt for on a speedy road bike.

The best touring bikes will generally have at least 36 spokes per wheel, tandem touring bike can even go as high as 48. 

Touring bike tyres

It's incredible how much difference a set of tyres can make to a bike. The frame can be designed with comfort top of the agenda, but put on some narrow rubber shoes and pump them up to the wrong tyre pressure and you'll be bumping about all over the road.

Most touring cyclists will want to go for wider tyres - 28mm+, when compared with their road racing cousins. The further off the beaten track you want to go, the wider they should be. If you plan on tackling some light trails, look for 32mm+.

Touring bike brakes

Traditionally, touring bikes had rim brakes and these will certainly do the job for most road-based tours. However, disc brakes do provide far superior stopping power, especially in the wet, and they are now more common than rim brake on the best touring bikes

Since disc brakes don't rely upon the rim to bring the bike to a halt, they also reduce the risk of the rims becoming worn through debris building up on the pads.

Add in that many touring cyclists are carrying luggage, therefore adding to the overall load, powerful brakes that work in all weathers do seem like a sensible addition. However, not everyone likes the appearance of disc brakes on a traditional steel machine and the pads are a tiny bit harder to replace and set up, which is worth considering if you're maintaining your bike on the road.

Luggage and Lights on a touring bike

A purpose-built touring bike will come with pannier racks fitted, as well as fenders and perhaps even built-in lights. These all add to the overall weight, but if the intended purpose requires them, it's no bother.

If you plan to use the bike for other purposes, like group rides, then you may want to look for a bike that comes with eyelets for guards and racks, so that you can remove and fit them as and when.

There's a lot of clever luggage solutions around these days, such as frame bags and oversized saddlebags , that allow you to do away with panniers if you'd rather distribute weight differently.

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Michelle Arthurs-Brennan the Editor of Cycling Weekly website. An NCTJ qualified traditional journalist by trade, Michelle began her career working for local newspapers. She's worked within the cycling industry since 2012, and joined the Cycling Weekly team in 2017, having previously been Editor at Total Women's Cycling. Prior to welcoming her daughter in 2022, Michelle raced on the road, track, and in time trials, and still rides as much as she can - albeit a fair proportion indoors, for now.

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The 7 Best Touring Bikes for Your Next Long-Distance Adventure

These bike-packing-friendly rides are ready for your next multiday tour or cross-country adventure.

In an industry that thrives on specialization, the touring bike is designed to be a versatile machine that can be your everyday commuter as well as the bike that takes you from Portland to Patagonia. Touring bikes differ from “regular” road bikes in a few ways. Here’s what you need to look for.

See our top picks below, then scroll down for more in-depth reviews of these bikes and other great options, as well as helpful buying tips and advice.

The Best Touring Bikes

Best Overall

Salsa cutthroat grx 810 bike.

Cannondale Topstone 4

Most Versatile Aluminum

Specialized diverge e5.

Best E-Bike

Bianchi impulso grx600 e-bike.

Best Carbon

Otso waheela c.

Best Heavyweight

Surly disc trucker.

Most Versatile Steel

Niner rlt 9 steel, what to consider, classic, adventure, and expedition.

Classic touring bikes are typically steel, have upright geometry, long chainstays, and often have fenders and a rear rack for panniers. They can look vintage even if they’re brand-new. The wheels of classic touring bikes are usually 700c and have a high spoke count (32- or 36-hole). Classic touring bikes used to have rim brakes, but mechanical disc brakes are starting to take over the category. Classic touring bikes can have either a flat or drop bar.

Adventure bikes are built to blur the lines between mountain bikes and road bikes . They love pavement, they love gravel, they love dirt, and that’s good because you might come across all of those surfaces during your tour. They typically have a drop bar, mechanical or hydraulic disc brakes, and a “dealer’s choice” of wheel sizes with clearance for a variety of tire sizes. And many adventure touring bikes are equipped to handle a dropper post.

Expedition touring bikes are exactly what they sound like: burly steeds crafted to handle big miles in remote territory. They’re almost always made of steel, with 26-inch wheels and rim brakes. All of this is designed to make them easy to work on and find spare parts for, even if you’re in a tiny town whose name you can’t pronounce.

Touring Bike Materials

Steel is the classic frame choice because it is strong and stiff and can be fixed by any mechanic with a blowtorch in a pinch. But you’ll find plenty of aluminum touring bikes on the market and an increasing number of carbon frames, although repairing a carbon frame in rural areas isn’t really an option. You can find titanium touring bikes that are expensive but tough and light, and the vibration damping can be a godsend on rough roads and dirt .

[Related: 7 Amazing Cycling Tours That Should Be on Your Bucket List ]

Touring Bike Geometry

A handful of subtle differences within touring bike geometries set them apart from road bikes. Touring geometry is more upright, creating a riding position that’s more comfortable during long hours in the saddle. Different bike companies refer to this as their “endurance” or “adventure” geometry. This “endurance” geometry plays out in a handful of different ways.

The wheelbase and chainstay of a classic touring bike is typically longer to make room for rear racks and panniers, and the bottom bracket is typically lower to increase stability. The head tube is typically longer on a touring bike, essentially elevating the handlebar, and there’s more slack, helping to extend the wheelbase. Touring bikes also generally have a shorter top tube, or more importantly, a shorter “reach,” which is the distance from the center of the bottom bracket to the top of the head tube. This is designed to keep you more upright, making you reach less for the handlebar.

How We Evaluated

Finding the best touring bikes requires riding hundreds of miles while hauling a heavy load. Our list comprises touring bikes we’ve personally tested, with some picks based on market research and prior brand experience. We dug into each touring bike’s specs and reputation and looked into Bicycling archives to find the best of the best. These touring bikes are tough, weight-bearing, and can confidently take you cross-country.

The Salsa Cutthroat is an ideal match for the performance-focused gravel rider who commonly encounters gnarly terrain on their adventures. It’s nearly a hardtail mountain bike, with a rigid fork and drop bars. Outfitted with a full-carbon frame and fork, a Shimano GRX 1x groupset, and 29x2.2-inch Teravail Sparwood tires, five bottle mounts, and front- and rear-rack mounting points, this bike is ready to embark on your next adventure and deliver a performance-oriented ride for the duration of your journey.

The Cannondale Topstone 4 is one smooth ride, thanks to a stiff aluminum frame. No, it doesn’t have suspension, but it doesn’t need it: Its bump-absorbing carbon fork is excellent for gravel and trails alike. No hydraulic disc brakes, unfortunately, but for its price, the Topstone 4 is a fantastic adventure bike with mounts to match.

Body-inclusive bike influencer Marley Blonsky, who rides a Cannondale Topstone 4 in size XS, loves this bike. “It’s an amazingly sturdy and versatile bike,” she says, “especially for the money. I’ve done everything from Unbound Gravel to bike camping to commuting on it—it has worked beautifully for everything!"

The Diverge E5 is one of the better do-anything, go-anywhere bikes today. A swap from its stock 38mm-wide tires to 30mm- or 32mm-wide tires can make it feel a sporty road bike, while switching to 700 x 47mm or 650b x 2.1-inch tires gives it some off-roading ability. For adventurers, it’s got frame and fender mounts, plus mechanical Tektro Mira flat-mount disc brakes that are, surprisingly (for its price), reliable and firm.

Our test editor Dan Chabanov loves the Diverge E5 and says it can be set up to do almost anything. “It’s not the perfect tool for any one task; it is capable of doing them all.”

Read Full Review

The Bianchi GRX600 is an e-bike outfitted to handle gravel and steep hills as much as pavement. It has rigid suspension, an aluminum frame, and, thankfully, hydraulic disc brakes for great stopping power. Kenda 700c x 35 tires help riders plow through the muck, plus a tire clearance of 38mm lends it some extra rubber when needed. It's also got plenty of mounts for baggage. The downside? You'll need an outlet to charge that bike once its battery runs out of juice.

“Touring with electric road bikes is an increasingly popular option for riders, and e-bike touring is very popular in Europe,” says Bicycling deputy editor Tara Seplavy . "E-bikes are a good option for hotel/B&B touring, or if you are camping and know that your destination has the electricity to recharge when you arrive.”

One of senior test editor Matt Phillips’ favorite bikes of 2022 and a gravel award-winner for the year, the Otso Waheela C is a versatile carbon ride with a lot of range. It has adjustable rear dropouts which adjust chainstay lengths to 420, 430, or 440mm, and has room for up to a whopping 54mm in either 700c or 650b. It’s also one of the only production bikes with suspension-correct geometry, terrific for extreme gravel riding. And yes: It still has plenty of mounts for carrying baggage.

“Perfect it is not—the bike is a little on the heavy side, and the ride is a bit firm with narrower tires,” says Phillips, “but the Waheela has a long front center for stability with the fast and lively feel of a high-performance bike.”

Surly’s Long Haul Trucker has been a favorite of touring cyclists for decades. However, its Disc Trucker, initially introduced in 2012, has been redesigned, giving it the edge over its older cousin. Surly shortened the chainstay length for snappy acceleration and adopted a thru-axle for increased stiffness.

The Disc Trucker also has a decreased stand-over height and increased stack height, which gives the bike a more upright geometry for long days in the saddle. The Truckstop handlebar complements that all-day geometry, and a new fork accommodates pack mounts so you can carry some of your load on the front of your bike. The bike isn’t all new and glitzy; you still get the tried and true 3x9 drivetrain, so you have plenty of gears for the climb.

What if your bike were actually several bikes that transformed based on your shifting moods or terrain? That’s the concept behind Niner’s RLT9, a super customizable long hauler built for gravel, pavement, dirt…whatever floats your boat. The hand-welded Reynolds 853 steel frame anchors the build, but the RTL9 also features a PF30 bottom bracket that makes it easy to go from the stock 11-speed drivetrain to a single-speed setup. The clearance has room for tires up to 700 x 50c but also fits 650b wheels. You can even add a dropper post to get into the steeps.

Niner borrowed some tech from the mountain bike world, most notably the lower bottom bracket height and a slack headtube angle to boost all-day comfort, and the rig comes stock with Shimano GRX800 components, which are built to handle the dirt and grime of gravel. We also like the 26 different mounting points and the custom bags that Niner makes mount directly to the frame without needing straps or Velcro.

Kevin Cortez is an editor for Runner's World, Bicycling, and Popular Mechanics covering reviews. A culture and product journalist for over ten years, he’s an expert in men’s style, technology, gaming, coffee, e-bikes, hiking, gear, and all things outdoors. He most recently worked as the Style Editor for Reviewed, a top product recommendation site owned by USA TODAY. He also helped with the launch of WSJ's Buy Side commerce vertical, and has covered the music and podcast industries for Mass Appeal, Genius, Vulture, Leafly, Input, and The A.V. Club. Equally passionate about leisure as he is his penmanship, Kevin dedicates his spare time to graphic novels, birding, making cold brew, and taking long, meandering walks.

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What’s The Best Touring Bike? (2024 Edition)

Posted on 

Touring bike buying advice is a popular topic, so I update this post regularly to keep the details current. If you find any out-of-date information, consider leaving a comment to let me know. Thanks!

Choosing a new touring bike can be pretty stressful for a newcomer to cycle touring – especially when you start looking at the price tags. 

So it’s no surprise the most common question I’ve been asked in 18 years of running this blog is some version of the following:

“Help! What’s the best touring bike for my upcoming cycle tour?”

It’s a perfectly understandable question to ask, because there are a lot of options out there – but answering it calls for a bit of context .

Your choice of touring bike should be mainly informed not by online reviews or paid-for content by sponsored bloggers, but by the kind of tour you’re planning, your unique physiology , your riding preferences as a touring cyclist, and – an oft-forgotten factor – what bikes are geographically available to you.

So the “best touring bike” for a young Brit planning a low-budget tour in Europe would be totally different to the “best touring bike” for an experienced American planning a once-in-a-lifetime, multi-year adventure from Prudhoe Bay to Tierra del Fuego.

Similarly, the best bike for a rider measuring 5 feet (152cm) tall, who also has reduced neck mobility, would be different to the best bike for a fitness enthusiast trying to win a bikepacking race like the Tour Divide.

And if you ask fellow cycle tourers on forums like Reddit what they think is the best touring bike, the answers will inevitably reflect what’s worked best for them , not what’ll work best for you.

(Yes, I am a fellow cycle tourer, but I’m not just going to tell you what touring bike I ride, any more than I’m going to tell you what colour pants I’m wearing!)

Simply put, there are diverse answers to the question of what is the “best touring bike”.

Luckily, touring bicycles are a mature product with decades of heritage. And despite the the confusion created by the rise of bikepacking as an industry buzz-word , there are still plenty of good commercial touring bikes on the market today. These are bikes that have been designed to meet the needs of a broad range of touring cyclists, and are readily available through local bike shops and dealership networks around the world.

In this post, we’re going to take a look at the best of them. The list below showcases some of the most time-proven touring bikes being made and sold in 2024, across the full spectrum of budgets, as well as a few lesser-known models to demonstrate what touring bikes for riders with specialist requirements might look like.

Perhaps you’ll find your perfect touring bike here. Perhaps you’ll realise you’re looking for something else altogether. Or perhaps you’ll find something more interesting to read among everything else I’ve written about cycle touring and bikepacking.

This is not an exhaustive list of every single touring bike on the market.

I’m a veteran bicycle traveller with 18 years of real-world experience, and my goal is to help you make the right choice , not to churn out AI-written spam to get on the front page of Google and generate affiliate commission.

My hope is to give you a taste of the diversity of touring bikes available today, rather than overwhelming you with unexplained jargon and things to click on. The journey of buying a new touring bike is not a short one. Reading this post will just be the beginning!

The list of touring bikes below is arranged in ascending price order. I’ve mentioned the worldwide availability of each bike, roughly speaking, and the manufacturer-suggested retail price (MSRP, aka: RRP or list price) in £/€/$ as applicable.

Cube Touring

Decathlon riverside touring 520, fuji touring ltd/disc ltd, ridgeback expedition, ridgeback panorama, surly disc trucker, oxford bike works expedition.

• More rider-recommended touring bikes
• Bonus: The secret to actually choosing the right touring bike

(Many good touring bikes previously on this list have been discontinued, including the Adventure Flat White, Dawes Galaxy, Revolution Country Traveller, and Surly Long Haul Trucker, to name just a few. That’s life!)

Summary: Feature-rich flat-bar trekking bike Availability: Worldwide List Price: £800 / €730 / US$760 / CA$1,090

The entry-level touring bike from the major German bike maker Cube is the affordable and simply-named Cube Touring . The basic model in this extensive range is currently one of the cheapest off-the-peg touring bikes on the market, and is widely distributed across Europe and North America.

If you’re used to the appearance of British or American designed tourers, you’ll notice some big differences, such as the flat handlebars and adjustable stem, the resulting upright riding posture, and the front suspension fork, as well as other details like a kickstand, a hub dynamo, and LED lights as standard. These are all fairly typical features of touring bikes from German and Dutch makers, where utility and comfort takes precedence.

To cater for a diverse customer base, the Cube Touring range comes in several frame variations and sizes, including the classic diamond frame (5 sizes), women’s specific with a sloping top-tube (3 sizes) and a step-through frame for riders with impaired mobility (3 sizes), all in a choice of two colour schemes.

The ‘semi-integrated’ rear rack, which is held in position by the mudguard/fender, is unorthodox, and the seat stays and front fork don’t have standard mounting points, complicating any modifications to the bike’s luggage-carrying capabilities. Riders looking for an entry-level touring bike that can be upgraded in the future may also decide to pass on the Cube Touring for these reasons.

The rest of the specification is impressive at this price. The entry-level Shimano V‑brakes and drivetrain components are sensible. As with any bike, you’ll want to fit your own preferred saddle, but the inclusion of ergonomic grips, lights, fenders and a kick-stand makes the Touring more or less ready to hit the road right out of the box.

All that said, the bike’s strongest selling point is the price. The recent disappearance of several popular entry-level touring bikes has left a gap at this end of the market – one that the Cube Touring happily fills.

• Check out the full Cube Touring range on the Cube website .
• Find your local dealer in Cube’s online directories of stockists in the UK and Europe , the USA , and Canada .
• Don’t buy this bike online. Support your local bike shop ( UK list )!

Summary: Good value forward-thinking light tourer Availability: UK, Europe, Australia List Price: £800 / €800 / AUD1,800

There’s no denying the success of Decathlon ’s no-frills approach to designing, manufacturing and selling sports and outdoor gear. The Riverside Touring is the entry-level model in Decathlon’s new foray into touring bikes, and for many riders will be a welcome addition to the sparse options at this lower-budget end of the market.

The Riverside Touring 520 is based on an aluminium frame, whose geometry sits somewhere between the old-school rigid mountain bike and today’s trendy gravel/hybrid rides. The frameset sports a big range of mounting points for more or less any luggage configuration you might imagine, including a front lowrider or fork cages, a traditional rear carrier rack should the semi-integrated stock rack not be to your tastes, and no less than five bottle cages.

The riding position of the Riverside Touring leans towards relaxed and upright, with the sloping top-tube helping with mounting and dismounting, and flat bars with so-called ergonomic grips and bar-ends atop a stack of head-tube spacers, all pointing to a bike designed with the casual or newcomer rider in mind. Comfortably wide 1.75″ tyres will be equally content on asphalt and gravel at the 700C (28″) wheel diameter.

Looking at component choice, Decathlon have specified a 1×11 drivetrain (ie: a single front chainring driving an 11-sprocket rear cassette); unusual on a tourer where riders tend to benefit from a wide and fine-grained range of gear ratios. The hydraulic disc brakes are also an unorthodox choice for a touring bike. 

Both will have traditionalists up in arms, citing increased chain wear rates, a reduced choice of gear ratios, and the near-impossibility of repairing hydraulics on the roadside. But a quick scan of the many customer reviews of this bike suggest that these concerns are academic. In the regions of the world this bike is likely to be used, spares and repairs for this bike will be abundant. And if you want to take it further afield, you can always fit cable disc brakes and/or a regular drivetrain.

Certainly one of this bike’s great strengths is how widely available it is for test-riding, Decathlon having hundreds of locations across the UK, Europe, Australia, and increasingly further afield, including Turkey, India, China, and the list goes on . Indeed, I can easily imagine a first-time tourer with a reasonable gear budget walking out of the store with not just the bike but a full set of luggage and maybe some camping gear too.

There are only four frame size options, however. Taken together with the wheel size, this may prevent those with short body lengths from finding a good match with the Riverside Touring 520.

In summary, while Decathlon have leaned pretty far into the crossover between classic touring and the gravel bike trend, there’s little to find fault with at this price – and there’s considerably more scope for upgrades here than other entry-level touring bikes in this list.

• Buy the Riverside Touring 520 in the UK from Decathlon .
• The bike is also available from Decathlon branches across Europe , Australia , and beyond .

Summary: Sporty steel-framed light road tourers Availability: UK/Europe/USA List Price: €1,000/1,500

Japanese manufacturer Fuji’s entry-level touring bikes are the Fuji Touring LTD and Disc LTD . The cheaper Touring LTD is the flat-bar model with rim brakes, while the Touring Disc LTD features drop bars and cable-actuated disc brakes with integrated shifter/brake levers. 

They’re both built on a Reynolds 520 cromoly steel frameset, with classic touring geometry and all the usual mounting points. Both bikes feature 36-spoke 700C wheels on Shimano hubs, and mudguards/fenders and a reasonably solid rear rack as standard, but no front rack or lowrider (you can of course add one later).

The Touring LTD has a Shimano Alivio V‑brakes and a 3×9‑speed chainset from the midrange of Shimano’s mountain-bike series of components, while the Touring Disc LTD has a 3×9‑speed Shimano Sora chainset with slightly higher gear ratios, making it more oriented towards lighter-weight road rides, as well as the ubiquitous TRP Spyre cable-actuated disc brakes found on so many touring bikes. For the extra money, the Disc LTD has a generator (dynamo) hub built into the front wheel which is already hooked up to the integrated front headlight – a nice touch.

The Fuji Touring LTD and Disc LTD come in no fewer than seven frame sizes, allowing precise fitting and fewer compromises for short or tall riders.

In summary, both models represent high ambitions in a good-value package aimed at a rider who wants a classic, no-fuss steel-framed touring bike, with the Disc being the sportier and more road-oriented of the two.

• Find a list of global dealers on the official Fuji website .

Summary: Beefy yet comfortable long-haul all-rounder Availability: UK List Price: £1,350

Launched in 2014, tweaked in the years since and now thoroughly tested on longer trips, the Ridgeback Expedition  is a strong contender for best value expedition touring bike on the market.

The current model shares design principles with many more expensive touring bikes designed specifically for worldwide expeditions beyond the developed world: wide-range 3×9‑speed mountain bike gearing, chunky 26-inch wheels, and a comfortable upright riding position. Unusually for a British tourer, it comes with flat bars and bar-end grips for a variety of hand positions. Cable disc brakes are now fitted as standard (the first incarnation had drop bars and V‑brakes).

The Ridgeback-branded integrated grips and bar-ends are modelled on the very popular but expensive Ergon range. The latest version of the Ridgeback Expedition also sees a brazed-on kickstand mounting plate added to the non-drive-side chainstay (though not an actual kickstand).

In many ways, as well as being excellent value for money, the Ridgeback Expedition is one of the most full-featured off-the-peg bikes in this list for extremely demanding trips where comfort and durability over time are paramount. Upgrade the rear rack, add a front lowrider and your favourite saddle, and you’ll be ready for the most remote of the planet’s backroads.

• Read my full review of the legacy 2014 Ridgeback Expedition here , and check the comments for feedback from long-haul riders.
• Like the rest of Ridgeback’s range, the Expedition should be available from any authorised Ridgeback dealer .

Summary: Classic British fully loaded drop-bar tourer Availability: UK List Price: £1,600

The Ridgeback Panorama  is a British-designed, Reynolds 725 cromoly-framed, disc brake-equipped, classic touring bike with a durable selection of 3×9sp drivetrain components from both road- and mountain-biking ranges. 

Its road-oriented frameset is prime for being built up into a fully-loaded, long-haul, asphalt touring machine. Both a front lowrider and a rear rack are fitted as standard – Tubus lookalikes, not the genuine articles, but still a welcome addition for fully-loaded riders who are just getting started.

Potential weak points on the Panorama include the integrated shifters/brake levers, which break away from the principle of separating possible points of failure (although you could theoretically swap them out for bar-end or even downtube shifters). The wheelset components are also nothing to write home about; get the spokes re-tensioned before taking this bike on a long-haul tour.

In spite of these question marks, the Panorama has been around for a long time and is very much tried and tested:  read Tim & Laura’s detailed guest review of the Panorama after a 6,000-mile road test , after which they completed their round-the-world trip on the same bikes.

• The Ridgeback Panorama is available from these authorised UK dealers .

Summary: Customisable road/gravel adventure bike Availability: Worldwide List Price: £1,600 / US$2,050 / CA$2,800

Back in 2012, when the jury was still out on disc brakes as a reliable choice for long-distance touring, Surly produced a disc-specific version of their legendary Long Haul Trucker touring bike, cunningly naming it the Disc Trucker . It has since evolved into one of the most versatile and tried-and-tested touring/adventure bikes on the planet.

The Disc Trucker platform had a major update in 2020, about which more detail on the Surly blog. Wheel diameter now complements frame size, ie: bigger wheels suit taller riders and the vice-versa, for a total of eleven frame/wheel size combinations. If, having tried all the Disc Truckers for size, you still can’t find a good fit, you should probably visit a bespoke framebuilder.

The frame geometry is tight and nimble, with integrated gear/brake levers adding to the sporty vibe. This lack of mechanical separation won’t please everyone, but will certainly please riders looking for a performance boost over the uncompromising solidity often seen in the expedition bike niche.

Similarly to the Kona Sutra (see below), the latest Disc Trucker has bolt-through axles, clearance for fatter tyres, and versatility improvements such as multiple fork mounts for fenders, cages or lowriders, to match the kind of wilder, mixed-terrain rides for which the Disc Trucker is increasingly used.

As ever with Surly, racks and mudguards remain excluded, the intention being for you to fit your own according to your needs.

The garish fluoro-yellow paint option of the current Disc Trucker won’t be for everyone, but Surly tell us that it’s also available in hi-viz black.

• Click here to read my full review of the legacy 2014 Disc Trucker .
• To find a place to test-ride one, start with Surly’s global dealer locator .

Summary: Adaptable, performance-oriented road/gravel tourer Availability: Worldwide List Price: $2,100 / £1,900

Canada-based bike manufacturer Kona have long inhabited the left-of-centre in cycling. The Sutra range, too, is progressively-minded, being one of the first mainstream touring bikes to switch to disc brakes back in the early 2010s.

Since then, Kona have adopted the stiffer and stronger bolt-through axle standard (another first amongst bikes in this list), and tightened up the frame geometry to produce a nimble and sporty cyclocross-inspired steel frameset which remains a touring bike at its core.

In 2022, Kona diversified the platform into several models, including the LTD and SE. The standard Sutra went in a more lightweight direction than in previous years, switching to a road drivetrain and cable-actuated hydraulic disc brakes. Today, this performance-oriented version of the Sutra remains Kona’s ‘modern take on the classic touring bike’ (in their own words), with a Shimano GRX 2×10-speed road-bike gearing, drop bars with integrated shifter/brake levers, mixed-terrain Schwalbe Marathon Mondial tyres, and a Brooks B17 saddle and Brooks bar-tape as standard. This all points to the blend of on-road and off-road use increasingly preferred by riders going on shorter, wilder adventures.

The 2024 Sutra’s luggage-carrying capabilities are diverse and adaptable. For those wanting to use the bike as a fully-loaded world tourer, standard rack mounts are provided on the seatstays and rear dropouts, suitable for fitting any standard pannier rack (perhaps a Tubus Cargo or Logo to match the Tara front low-rider already fitted). For those wanting to stay nimble, frame and fork mounts exist for more or less any combination of bolt-on cages and harnesses.

The Kona Sutra comes in six fine-grained frame sizes. This year’s paint colour is Satin Midnight with bronze gloss decals, in case you were wondering.

• I’ve been riding a Kona Sutra myself since 2012 and I love it.  Read my original long-term review of the legacy model here .
• The Kona website has a handy  list of worldwide dealers so you can find a place to test-ride the Sutra.

Summary: Bespoke, round-the-world expedition bike Availability: UK & Worldwide List Price: from £2,789

Originally a one-off “ultimate expedition bike” built to my exact specification, Oxford Bike Works have been refining and custom-building bespoke Expedition s to order since 2015 from their workshop in Abingdon, Oxfordshire, England. Many have now circled the globe. It’s not cheap, but you get what you pay for.

As standard, each bike features a hand-built Reynolds 525 cromoly steel frame, a choice of 26″ or 700C hand-built wheels, top-end Tubus racks, rim or disc brake options, Microshift thumbshifters, and tons of other expedition-specific touches.

From a baseline specification, each bike is custom-built to the rider’s exact needs and preferences after an in-person consultation and fitting session at their workshop. While most of their customers are from the UK, they will also ship finished bikes elsewhere in the world in special cases.

Oxford Bike Works have now moved all frame production to the UK, both minimising their carbon footprint and allowing even more individual tailoring – especially attractive for riders with diverse physiologies who may find that the commercial bikes in this list don’t cater well for their needs.

• Check out the full specifications of the Oxford Bike Works Expedition .
• Read my 10,000-word epic, How To Build The Ultimate Round-The-World Expedition Touring Bike (With Pictures) , which details every design decision that went into this bike.
• Don’t buy this bike online (you can’t anyway). Support your local bike shop ( UK list )!

Yet More Rider-Recommended Touring Bikes

This is not an exhaustive list, because if it was we’d be here all day. But the following bikes have also been recommended by readers of this blog over the years since I first published this post. All have also proven themselves capable touring bikes over time and miles:

• Bombtrack Arise Tour (Germany & Worldwide)
• Cinelli HoBootleg (Italy & Worldwide)
• Fahrradmanufaktur TX-800 (Germany)
• Genesis Tour De Fer (UK)
• KHS TR 101 (USA)
• Temple Cycles Adventure Disc 3
• Trek 520 Disc (USA & Worldwide)
• Vivente World Randonneur (Australia)

…and you’ll find even more options in my massive list of heavy-duty expedition touring bikes available worldwide .

Remember: don’t buy a touring bike online. Support your local bike shop ( UK list ) and have your bike chosen, fitted and customised by an expert whose job depends on getting it just right, just for you!

Bonus : The Secret To Actually Choosing The Right Touring Bike

Finally, I’m going to tell you a secret. 

It’s something other cycle touring bloggers won’t tell you, because they’d prefer you to click on their affilliate links, buy a bike online, and earn them commission.

If you’re having trouble choosing between the touring bikes listed above, the reason is probably because – on paper – they are basically all the same .

They all cost several hundred pounds/dollars/euros. Most of them have steel touring-specific frames, wide gearing, relaxed riding positions, a pannier rack and extra mounts, and drivetrains from the middle of Shimano’s mountain-bike or road-bike ranges. They’re all built primarily for paved roads, but could handle a dirt track or gravel road if need be. They all have two wheels, handlebars, and a saddle.

So how should you choose between them?

The answer is actually very simple.

Visit a touring bike specialist ( UK list ) and take a few bikes for a test ride. 

In doing so, you will discover that the “best touring bike” is the one that’s available in your area and has been set up for you by a touring bike specialist who’s taken the time to understand your needs.

I’ve written a longer post about what to do when you get to this stage of the touring bike buying process, when you’ve got a shortlist of bikes you found online but you’re struggling to choose between them .

And if what I’ve shared with you here still isn’t enough, you can check out even more deep-dive posts about detailed aspects of touring bike choice, including

• three critical questions you should ask at the start of the touring bike buying process ,
• a discussion about what exactly defines a touring bike ,
• my take on what’s really going on when you can’t decide between two bikes ,
• a hugely in-depth article on how to custom-build your own expedition bike ,
• a summary of the debate over disc brakes versus rim brakes ,

and more on my absolutely massive advice and planning page .

Because of all the things you’ll buy for a cycle tour, the bike is the one purchase you really can’t afford to get wrong.

Bogged down in research for your next big bicycle adventure?

I wrote a whole book to help with that. How To Hit The Road is designed to be read at your leisure, making planning a bike tour simple and achievable, no matter the length, duration or budget. Available globally as an ebook or paperback.

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• How To Custom Build The Ultimate Expedition Touring Bike (With Pictures)
• Surly Disc Trucker Touring Bike: Legacy Review & Detailed Photos
• The Best Cheap (Sub-£1,000) Touring Bikes for Low-Budget Adventures

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323 responses to “what’s the best touring bike (2024 edition)”.

Wow. An actual person. Writing. Pen to paper. This is just O so refreshing! Thank you!!! (At 76 years of age-and an English major to boot, circa 1970–I get so tired of the shit being published today. Gawd–I have to guess at what some stupid software program is ATTEMPTING to say!)

You’re welcome. It’s fast becoming my unique selling point!

I can’t find a Kona Sutra SE anywhere, I think they’re discontinued, so if anyone knows where I can find one let me know.

Yes, you’re right – it looks like Kona have simplified things for their 2024 range, and the plain Sutra is now their classic touring bike once again (as it was for years before the SE was introduced). It looks like you’ll need to add your own rear rack for fully loaded touring, but all the frame fittings appear to be there. I’ll update this post shortly with the new model. Thanks for highlighting it!

My wife’s bike is a basic 2000 Kona Hahana. Persuaded the dealer to sell only frame headset seatpin bars. . Built up better wheels etc tubus racks. Tierra del Fuego to Quito plus many more trips. Still going strong 20 years later. My lovely lightweight Univega bought as a frame lasted until 2013 .The frame broke in Albania survived for 60 km held together with nylon cord and cone spanners. Got it welded by local blacksmith. Now have Surly Troll. Ok .….but will have to go back to Square taper bottom bracket. Wife’s old square tapers have done about 30000 miles. Progress or fashion? Charlie and Bethan

All I can do is repeat the old saying that if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it!

Anyone got their hands on a Decathalon Riverside Touring 900? Looks like good all round value, but rarely in stock on their website! Would love to hear some real world feedback on this bike…

I second that – real world stories appreciated!

Hi Tom, I recently cycled from Amsterdam to Genoa covering 2500km in total. I flew into Amster with the bike boxed up. I took with me a carbon frame Ridley Kanzo Adventure, it has all the mounting points and relatively relaxed geometry. I road over every type of terrain and the bike didn’t let me down. What I liked with this bike was that I could arrive at my destination in the evening, remove my pannier bags and then have a light weight roadie feeling for exploring whatever region I had made camp in. The bike also had great performance in the hills. Another plus was that when flying and the bike is boxed up, it’s relatively light weight to transport. This meant that at the start and end of my tour getting the bike boxed up from campsite to train to airport was not such a struggle.

Thanks, Kerry. I really like this approach and I’m heartened to hear carbon frames are now being built to take light luggage loads. Thanks again for sharing!

The 30 year old touring bike you already own becomes the second best, as the next one you buy must necessarily be even better.

I’ve recently gone from a Claud Butler Majestic to a Crossmaxx 28″ Pinion. Naturally, I’m absolutely certain, it’s the best touring bike I could possibly have bought (given my criteria and priorities).

First, let me make this perfectly clear, I’m not a seasoned tourer, so much of what I will say is strictly coming from an amateur. I had to look for a new touring bike after my 85 Schwinn Le Tour Luxe got hit by a hit-and-run driver and bent the fork beyond repair, but that bike worked great for my needs.

I could not buy a touring bike from anyone in my city of 350,000 people because no one carries them, the only shop that could have ordered me the Trek 520 but there were some things about the bike I didn’t like, plus it was expensive and with lower end parts, much how I felt the Surly Trucker was, having no choice I had to turn to the internet. in 2019 I compared the Kona Sutra SE, Surly Trucker, Fuji Touring, Masi Giramondo 700c, and one other I can’t recall the name. After much debate, I narrowed it down to either the Kona or the Masi, and ended up with the Masi because of the price of $1,450 at the time, the Kona would have cost me $1,950, but in 2019 they didn’t have some of the stuff they now have on that bike so to make it work I had to make some changes which would have cost me even more; the Masi had the best gear ratios for climbing steep grades with a loaded bike of any bike I saw, and at the time Masi was using 180mm rotors on the front and 160 on the rear and I liked the idea of the bigger rotor on the front, Masi has since reduced the front rotor size to 160.

I did make some changes to the Masi, put on RedShift Shockstop suspension stem and seat post, a change I would have done to any other touring bike I would have bought, now I feel like I’m riding in a Cadillac. The stock Kenda Drumlin tires are junk and heavy, I replaced those with Schwalbe Amotion 38c tires; and the WTB saddle was also junk, so replaced it with a Brooks C17; I ended up not liking the front Tubus Tara rack and replaced it with a Blackburn Bootlegger rack which works better for my needs. 

I think the Masi Giramondo 700c is a very worthy touring bike that a person should at least look at, especially if on the lower budget end of things.

Thanks for this detailed contribution – it’s always good to hear about rider experiences with touring bikes other than those listed here. For other readers’ reference, here’s a link to the California based manufacturer webpage for the Masi Giramondo .

About to begin a year of touring with Breezer Radar Expert. A review of it here https://cycletraveloverload.com/breezer-radar-expert-review-best-budget-gravel-bike/ (not me) I changed the tires to Schwalbe G‑One Overland Evo 28″ 50–622 for this purpose 😉

I’m considering the Priority 600, as my new touring bike and wondering if anyone has any history of using one or opinions of this bike? Thx

For reference, here’s a link to the Priority 600 . I have no personal experience of this bike, but I have published my own detailed thoughts on internal gearing systems such as the Pinion gearbox in the context of cycle touring here (most of the same logic applies to belt drive).

I am a multi day ultra cyclist, so tend to go minimalist. However, I have done big touring rides in the past on my trusty 1993 Cannondale T1000 (my 21st birthday present). I think that a Daws Super Galaxy or Cannondale, still make excellent budget touring bikes. I have been racing and touring on a Niner RTL Steel, which is makes an excellent touring bike, with great touring geomtry and lots of mounts for racks — I use a 1x 46t Shinano GRX groupset with an 11–50 cassette. Gravel bikes can may great touring bikes

Happy you’re reinforcing the mantra that the best touring bike might be the one you already have – even if it’s 30 years old! As for gravel bikes, many of them would certainly make good tourers – just not sure I’d advise anyone to buy a gravel bike for touring if touring-specific bikes are also available.

I think I have been riding the “Best” touring bike for the last 7 years. — https://photos.app.goo.gl/wP8vs7T5hLpNjSBX8

What an absolute beast! Something with that much detailed customisation can hardly fail to serve its rider’s needs best.

Yes HP and Tom, I would like to know about the Marrakesh too!

Interestingly enough, I still can’t find any long-term rider reviews of the Marrakesh. There are, however, plenty of spam reviews which combine manufacturer specifications and stock photos with meaningless filler like “combining Alivio Trekking derailleurs with the Shimano Sora shifters, you won’t have any problem slowing down or torquing up the bike when needed” (yep, actual quote). As a rule, bikes only get on this list when a consensus emerges from the community of people who’ve used them on tour. I just wish I could find more decent trip reports from people riding this one!

Great list, but where’s the Salsa Marrakech?!

I’ve done a few tours on it and can vouch for it’s quality. She’s an absolute beast and rides like a dream! Packed with touring features and has really well worked out geometry.

PS I don’t work for Salsa.

PPS love the blog mate. Did a 6500km+ around Asia a few years ago and your blog was really reaaally useful. ???

Thanks for the comment! The Marrakech was launched in 2015, which in cycle touring circles makes it a newcomer 😉 but you are correct that enough time has gone by now to see real-world results, so I’ll consider it for the next update. Thanks again!

I am looking to buy either Fuji disc touring LTD 2021( priced at 1336 euros) or Trek 520 2021( priced at 1600 euros) . I am really confused , as I don’t understand even though both have very similar specs, why is the trek 520 priced at 250 euros higher? Is trek somehow supposed to be better for some reason that I cannot comprehend or is it price cause of the brand “trek”?

Hi Badri. Prices may differ for many reasons, including import taxes, exchange rates, retailer profit margins, and of course simple pricing decisions by the manufacturer. But my main advice still remains this: if you can’t choose between two bikes on paper, it’s time to visit your local bike shop and take both for a test ride!

Hi I’m from newzealand and touring bikes well decent ones aren’t that easy to come by at the moment because of covid .but I found a Kona sutra the guy had only done about 100 km on it decided he wasn’t going to cycle so sold it and I happen to be at the right place at the right time.great bike to ride and I’m looking forward to my first tour on it in one months time Peter

Unlikely you monitor this anymore, but I’ve been comparing my 80s road bike to modern touring bikes (Croix de Fer and Kona Sutra) and the geometries look the same. Am I missing something or are modern specialist tourers actually very similar to old-school road racers?

Hey Hugh. Actually I make a point of replying to every comment, and I update this post monthly 🙂

Long ago I inherited a hand-built road bike from my grandfather. It was the first bike I’d owned that wasn’t a mountain bike and I was amazed at how fast and light it was, despite being a steel frame. It was a bit on the small side for me, but you’re right that the geometry was quite close to a classic road tourer. The biggest differences you’ll probably find are in the weight (heavier-gauge tubing designed for carrying luggage) and the wheelbase proportional to frame size, although the trend today seems to be for more compact and sporty designs. But the short version is yes, there are certainly a lot of similarities!

Sorry to burst some people’s bubbles.But I want to save you the hassle and frustration. I’ve been touring around north,central and south america,now in Turkey & the Balkans for the last 4.5 years on a 3x9 ‚11–36 cassette Surly Troll 26″ and I can tell you that 26″ anything is absolutely obsolete!! DEAD!! It has been a total nightmare! I can find zero parts for it, anywhere. Definitely forget tires. Impossible! Literally nothing anywhere. Traditional wisdom is gone out the window, China has flooded the market with 27.5/29″ and all the components for these sizes and that’s what killed the 26″ over the last 5+ years. Seriously , almost everything I have for my bike I had to buy off Amazon and getting lucky once or twice when a mechanic spent days looking for parts for me. I’ve spent days and more than 2 weeks stuck in cities looking for what was considered simple parts found “easily”! :9 speed shifters,cassettes,chains,26″ tires,disc rotors 160mm,BB,brake pads,etc…Nada!! Super frustrating! I can’t buy a new bike now but I will sell this 26″ 3x9 Troll in a flash the first chance I get or throw it straight into a river. It’s a shame because it’s a great bike. You can almost still get things for it online, but I think soon these parts will be plased out soon. Due to Covid the shipping is taking weeks and many parts are out of stock now too. I thought that being in Europe people still ride 26″ bikes I might find parts,but no.I’ve been once again stuck Tirana for more than 2 weeks just for a cassette and chain and have to take inferior parts now. If I had a 27’5 or 29″ and 10/11 speed I would have more options. My friends who toured 5–10 + years ago can’t believe this change. All 26″ inch bike frame builders out there need to know this.The market has changed, traditionalists be warned. Good luck!

Hello Ian and thanks for your comment. You certainly sound frustrated! For balance, and for the benefit of my other readers, I’d like to add a few observations:

1. 26″ is a wheel size, not a cassette sprocket count, chain width, shifter indexing system, disc rotor size, etc. It affects rim, spoke, tyre and tube availability. 2. You’re right that the industry is currently swamped with trendy new wheel sizes like 27.5 and 29. But most existing bicycles in the world have 26-inch wheels. These bicycles will always need spare parts and are unlikely to disappear overnight. 3. As for “literally nothing anywhere”, I just walked into my local supermarket and found an aisle of brand new bicycles, all adult sizes of which had 26-inch wheels, and a rack of spare tyres right next to them. I’ve said this before: it’s not just specialist bike shops that sell bikes. This is critical to remember when looking for 26-inch wheel parts in far-flung lands.

That’s all I wanted to add. I hope you get things sorted in Tirana. And I hope you’ll share with us the location of the river you throw your Surly Troll into!

Im fairly sure the Surly Long Haul Trucker promotion pictures are of frames with a different wheel size they are designed for. The picture here looks like a 60cm frame for 700c wheels but fitted with 26″ wheels. This is the same for the picture here as it is on their website, which looks like a 58cm frame for 262 wheels with 700c wheels in place. I own a Surly LHT and theyre great bikes but the frame sizeing can be a bit confusing and the promotional pictures dont help.

I would respectfully disagree, based on the fact that the brake shoes are visibly aligned correctly with the rims. If the wrong sized wheels were fitted to the frame, this wouldn’t be possible. In the past, all sizes of LHT frames have been available for both 700C and 26″ wheels, so I’d guess we’re looking at one of the larger frame sizes for 26″ wheels with the correct wheels indeed fitted. The proportions do look weird at a glance, but it is in fact how these bikes were sold. FWIW the sizing scheme of the Truckers has changed now, so wheel size better complements frame size throughout the range, as mentioned in the latest update to the post above.

Hello Tom — I have a Koga Miyata Globe Traveler which I bought in 2005 from a dealer in Lexington, KY — Pedal The Planet. (Ironically, in 1985, I did a world tour on a Miyata bicycle.) I bicycled the Lewis and Clark Trail that summer, St. Louis to Astoria, OR. 10 years later in 2015 I began a charity ride of the perimeter of the U.S. for Habitat For Humanity and Save The Children (website: usperimeterride.org) and concluded that 12,000 journey in 2017. I’ve been very happy with my Koga Miyata all these years. I’m 71 now, and don’t know if I have any expedition type tours left in me … but I keep thinking. Just wondering your thoughts on the current Koga bikes. I’ve seen a couple of comments here regarding Koga bikes — some positive and couple not (the one regarding the cracked frame). I think that there are no longer any Koga dealers in North America. Am I correct in thinking that? I believe there used to be one in Toronto, and a dealer out in Santa Barbara, CA, that handled parts. Pedal The Planet where I bought my Koga Miyata is no longer in operation. Thank you for all your info on your website!

Aaaand Long Haul Trucker is gone as well. Seems like Surly are phasing out some of the touring bikes.

Same source — LHT FAQ, third answer I think.

That’s tragic – although on closer inspection it does say “for the time being”…

Sadly, Surly will discontinue the Troll model in 2021.

Hi Lukas! Do you happen to have a source for this? I’ve checked the Surly website and social media channels and haven’t found any mention. I just want to be sure that my readers are getting accurate information. Cheers!

Someone asked the question on Surly’s website in Thorn section — Q&A. They asked whether Thorn will be renewed for 2021 and someone from the staff said that they will no longer offer this model. 

https://surlybikes.com/bikes/troll

FAQ section, should still be the first question asked. 

I was planning to build a tourer on Troll frame and I guess now I should buy it before it’s gone.

I wrote ‘Thorn’ by mistake, should be Troll (I also consider Thorn for my build and must’ve been thinking about it.)

Thanks for the reference, Lukas, that’s very useful. I guess it reflects the diminishing popularity of the 26-inch platform, at least for new bikes (and thus for profit margins).

In the premium category I’d add one of the IDWorx bikes such as the All Rohler or oPinion BLT. I visited their HQ last week and Gerrit and his team are amazing. They won ‘bike of the year 2020’ award for their BLT off-road touring bike. https://www.idworx-bikes.de/

I had the Off Rohler in this list since visiting their stall at Eurobike 2014 – it almost wins the ‘most expensive off-the-peg touring bike in the world’ award! I’m keen to see what they’ve created since then. Thank you for the link and the suggestion!

They arent’ cheap that’s for sure. I tried to trade in my wife for a titanium bike, but they only take euros.

Once they start to explain the engineering behind each component you can understand why they arrive at those prices. Also it’s a 4th gernation family of bike builders, they hand build the bikes, their staff are properly-paid, they have sunk lots of money into R&D and make many bespoke components. The attention to detail is astonishing. I spent nearly a day at their HQ with the attention of the owner, his wife, two dogs and their chief engineer. (He did his Masters theisis on Pinion gearboxes). We rode in the German countryside and tested a score of bikes. The customer service is out of this world. If you can afford it, I’d would recommend IDWorx.

Hi Tom, thanks for your help! Now im planning a big tour for a few years in Africa and America, now i have an Avaghon 26 series with Rohloff and Magura but im thinking to change with a 29″ wheels( im 1,81 cm tall ). What do you think about Surly ECR? Thnaks, Fabio.

I have never ridden the ECR so I can’t speak from experience, but I know it’s a well respected frameset. Your height suggests a 29er would be more comfortable in the long run. For planning a big tour you might want to check out my list of expedition touring bikes – this will also help you see quickly which framesets are Rohloff-compatible. Hope that helps!

I think I have “the best” touring bike available… judge for yourselves. Full suspension mid-drive eTouring bike and trailer evolution. https://photos.app.goo.gl/wP8vs7T5hLpNjSBX8

Hey Tom. Love this website. Is this still current? I can’t find a stockist that has the Flat White. Even Adventure’s own website doesn’t seem to link to it. Or am I missing something obvious? Thanks

It’s still listed at https://www.adventureoutdoor.co/bike/flat-white — I’ll be updating this article this month and will see if I can find any current stockists.

A look at secondhand market worth it as I picked up Thorn Mercury Rohloff for £1200 (pretty much the price of the hub alone) also have a rohloff on my ti 29er and it has been on 2 other mtb before that ……. pretty much fit and forget.

Hi Tom I am preparing for a number of long term trips in the near future and researched bicycles heavily (including use of your excellent website) and settled on the Ridgeback Expedition. However I have now made three attempts to buy one at cycle shops in a variety of towns and no-one seems able to sell me one! I decided to contact the compnay directly, but no phone number and they say that they take two weeks to answer e‑mails. So I would suggest that customer service might be a factor in choosing the bike to buy (these are not cheap acquisitions after all) and any company that cant even manage to communicate with customers at the point of purchase isn’t likely to have ana dequate after sales customer support! Not sure what to do now, but it definitely will not be a Ridgeback anything Dave

Local bike shops don’t tend to sell a wide variety of bikes here in the UK, they make there money from servicing bikes and selling components so it’s not really a surprise you can’t find a bike shop that sells them. A quick google search has just shown several reputable online retailers that supply the ridgeback expedition and will provide you with any customer support you might require after purchase.

Hope this helps

Thx for the info. About same specs as my modded Moonrun. I use SKF bracket spindle but have cheaper headset but works fine for years now. For carrying stuff I use strongest on market today and that is the rear rack made by Thorn. Fitted with M6 steel bolts I can come a way with most everything I throw at it. I had the frame professionally modified by Marten from M‑gineering after which it was powder coated.

Hello, Thanks for this nice article. Why is the TX-800 striked-through in the list ?

You don’t have the Surly Ogre(700c) or Troll(26″) on your list. I got the Ogre because it was suggested over the LHT or disc version because they are a little more rugged. I went from the US to Panama on an Ogre and never had a problem with it beyond needing new tires, I went with the Ogre because I had a really nice set of 700c rims. NEVER EVER go to Latin America with anything but 26″. I read a few blogs on crazyguyonabike.com and with off road touring the LHT(or disc version) needs welding.

Hello Tom. I cycled Armenia three years ago in a short tour and met an old french man Thierri, walking all the way from france to there. one month after getting home he came to me in Tehran and stayed for few days. in his Photoes, i saw you. i knew you in advance beacause of your movie. The intention of writing for you is that we’ve been in contact for one year or so but suddenly i lost him and i Thought you might remember him and have any news of him. I really hope he is doing well and being healthy. thanks sorry for misspeling

best wishes Saied

Yes, he’s safe and well and back living in France. A true legend and inspiration!

I’m currently cycling in Vietnam from Ho Chi Minh City to Hanoi. 2000km via the coast, in some pretty demanding scenarios. I’m riding the Cinelli HoBootleg 2018 Touring Bike which has been as tough and reliable as I had hoped it would be. I’m 1000km in of the 2000km and think it’s been a great bike. Intrigued it wasn’t listed in the line up.

Should it be? I think so yet if there is a reason for not rating or listing can you let me know? Recognise you cannot list all Touring Bikes yet it does have a great name in many other review pages.

Anyway — I rate the Cinelli!

One other thing, I think the Trek 920 should be listed. The bikes you have reviewed are very traditional and the Trek 920 certainly makes the available options a little more spicy. Touring bikes are surely headed in the Trek 920 direction wouldn’t you say? D

Tom, what do you think about Verso Tour Gitane? I’m from Argentina, and here there aren’t so many good bikes, and I can buy one Gitane, but I’ve never heard about this model. Thank you

I also haven’t heard about this one. On paper it looks like a pretty decent European-style ‘trekking bike’ – the adjustable stem and the Magura hydraulic rim brakes remind me of some better known German and Dutch models. The drivetrain choices are close to what we use for the Oxford Bike Works Expedition. I’d take a careful look at the rear rack, which doesn’t look too sturdy from the photos, and consider upgrading the tyres if you’re going on a long trip.

This bike has a lot of critical components made from aluminium: the frame, forks and rear rack. The front rack would appear to be the chromoly Tubus Ergo. Going on your previous comments about aluminium Tom you could rule this bike out for some types of touring, for example, where a frame, fork or rack break would cause a major disruption.

Thank you for post. Lot of good reading. However i am bit lost in a choice now. Do you think you can shine a bit light to it ? 

I just now finished 300km testing tour on my road bike Coyotee Route 66. I changed a lot of things in a bike like butterfly handlebars, wheels, saddle, etc etc… 

I was riding in UK from Birmingham to Warrington. But after i come back i had a pain all over my body. And i started to think about a choice all over again… 

Now In 3 days i should start trip about 4000km from UK to Portugal. Do you recommend to buy a new bike this short before? 

I explored variety of options of bikes but seems more or less simmilar. I am concern if i will go for normal touring bike riding will be bit boring. Where Surrly Troll seems bit more fun. I was also thinking about hardtail mountain bike with fork suspension. But this seem as quite slow and tiring on road. And also what you think about newer types as using cargo bike (YUBA), hybrid bike should i think about it ? And also if you have any experience with using electic bikes. With a range above 100miles seems as interesting. Go for it or not ?

Thanks a lot for your answers.

Thanks for the article, i plan to travel from Texas to the bottom of South America next year. I was planning on buying a bike there. Do you know much about American bikes and what would be good for that trip, i’m Over 6 ft and about 95kg now. I’m in china now so i don’t think buying one here would be good but, i’m open

The Surly LHT or Disc Trucker is the classic American tourer and widely available. For your height/weight I’d go for a 700c model in L or XL frame size.

Thanks for this great review. I travel now for last 5 years with a Koga World traveller bike. Very happy with it. Please include in your evaluation next time!

Bought a Koga World traveller three years ago, have been very happy with it. BUT, this summer while on a trip in Scotland I saw a nasty crack on the welding. Tried to identify a Koga dealer, and all those mentioned on their website no longer do Koga. I contacted the customer service via their website form and it took them a week to get back basically telling me to contact the seller. I bought the bike in France, so that wasn’t going to help me much! So I went to the nearest reputable dealer in Pitlochry, they confirmed my worry that the bike was too dangerous to use so bought a cheap, but very good Giant mtb, and continued the holiday. Picked the broken Koga bike up on the way back to France and went to the seller.

The bike has been sitting in the seller’s workshop for THREE WEEKS as they wait for KOGA to instruct them on how to proceed (they are no longer a Koga dealer). The frame comes with a lifetime warranty, but a warranty doesn’t fix a bike. The seller has sent photos, and sent more photos at Koga’s request, but still no instructions. They have contacted the nearest Koga dealer in France and no answer from them either. I even went to the nearest dealer in Germany to see if they could help and they refused.

I have emailed, tweeted, tried calling, but nothing seems to get them to react now.

So my advice would be to stay away from Koga unless you are ok with paying a lot of money with no assurance that you will get any form of support if you have a problem on the road.

This sounds like a terrible story and I’m sorry to hear about it. It does seem unusual that one of the most reputable high-end touring bikes would develop such a fault in the first place, however. I’d be interested to hear what solution eventually arises – I would have thought a crack in a weld under warranty would point to a brand new replacement frame.

Tom I have a dawes titanium (not disks) and I was thinking of upgrading the wheels and brakes for longer audaxes. Do you have any suggestions.

thanks David

If I were you, I’d pay a visit to my nearest professional wheelbuilder.

New Trek 1120 is a whole new dimension. Gearing up now for a Canadian ride.

Having been the proud owener of several Koga bikes for around the world trips unfortunately, since 2016 the quality has been declining. For the amount of money it cost, it is simply not worth it. For 2000 € (which the price of a Koga bike) you can get a lot of bicycle elsewhere.

Hi Tom! Thanks for an interesting article! I’m dreaming of bike adventures, both longer trips and weekend trips and try to find a new bike that can make those dreams come true. Mostly, though, I’ll use the new bike for my everyday commute in Sweden. I’ve been watching the Verenti substance tiara/sora — seems like decent components and good value which I’m pretty sure will fill my commuting needs. But how do you think it would do for longer adventures? I’m mostly concerned about weight, geometry and key component durability. I would be very grateful of a brief opinion! http://www.wiggle.se/verenti-substance-tiagra-adventure-road-2017/

Hi all, Great article — many thanks. Very useful while choosing a bike to undertake a cycle across USA in 2018 (I’ve never had a touring bike before). I chose Trek 520 (Disc brake variety) in the end which I’m really happy with. Good value at £1,000 versus other bikes available, comes with pedals and rear pannier rack and very swish gear changers. Reviews on Trek website largely very positive as well. I went for because I’m quite tall (193cm/6foot4) so was struggling to find a big enough frame in any touring bikes. Surly do large frames but are more expensive (~£1500) and no extras like pannier rack. In the end the 60cm Trek frame firs me very well — we checked standover length and top tube length and because of the geometry of the bike it actually matches some other manufacturers who produce larger frames (eg 62cm). Feel free to contact me on [email protected] if you have any questions or thinking of buying the bike, I’d be happy to help.

Ollie, London

If it is a choice between a smaller and a larger frame, my preference is for the smaller frame because a) provided the steerer hasn’t been cut yet, it is almost always possible to achieve a good fit by putting on a longer stem and raising the seatpost (swapping for a longer one if necessary) b) bigger frames are harder to pack for travel c) it can feel more manoeuvrable

Punish the thing, make the bike work for you, and don’t be limited by the bike or its stuff. Bikes get stolen, plans go squiify and so what if we decide to take the really cruddy road upppp that turns into gravel then kind of goat track then.. and you land up pushing and doing singletrack downhill to .. mud and gravel and finally .. So, my bike came out of a skip, a rusty 2012 Scott Speedster S30. Thrown out! Square section BB, road rims and tyres (I know.. but a good spoke key makes life simple). wide range 9x2 gears. But it takes racks.. The boom in road cycling means 700c and road bike bits are much easier than they were a decade ago — even in Yemen and Iran. Total build cost of my bike: £100 including panniers. Bits and pieces off gumtree, pinkbike, etc. If it get bent, hah. If it gets nicked, hah. The no-compromise bits: ‘fit’ / setup, the saddle, my most comfy/worn SPD shoes, tubeless with goop.

Brilliant! Thanks for sharing this!

Hey this is great stuff! However, do you have recommendations for bikes in the US? ‑j

Sure – many of the bikes in this article are from U.S. manufacturers, Surly and Kona being the obvious two. Also check out REI’s range of tourers under the Co-op Cycles brand.

Hi Tom, love your site. I need to thank you not only for an informative site in general, but also for helping me make a decision on a touring bike. Until recently I lived in Darwin, Australia. It’s reasonably isolated and the choice of bike brands is severely limited. Thus, test riding anything decent is out of the question. My wife was fortunate enough to get the opportunity to work in France for 6 months so I saw this a a great chance to purchase the bike of my dreams. Armed with advice from your site (and others) I narrowed it down to two bikes — the VSF TX-400 with Shimano drive train, and the Rose Activa Pro 2. As there wasn’t a Rose dealer where we were living in France, the TX-400 was the winner. That was August last year and I haven’t had even a twinge of regret. I love it. Keep up the great work mate. I look forward to following your adventures (and Charlie’s) for many years to come. Cheers, Derek.

I am surprised that Ridgeback is still fitting aluminium racks to its high-end touring bikes when most other brands fit cro-moly. Aluminium whilst okay for components such as wheel rims, handlebars, and seatposts, is too fragile for heavily loaded racks with thin small diameter tubes and suffers too easily from metal fatigue.

I am surprised that serious riders will still accept an add-on rack of any kind steel or not. Every connection is a weak link. Tout-Terrain, Panamericana. http://www.en.tout-terrain.de/bicycles/panamericana/ — not interested in the pinion gearing but you can’t beat the frame.

Hi Tom and readers, Does anyone out there have any experience with or notion of what to do with the following problem? (saddle soreness — chafing). My girlfriend has a typical german woman’s uprightish trekking bike by bulls, and we did just one two week tour on it last summer. She’d never toured before. She found her “intim Bereich” (intimate area) got rubbed a lot by the saddle (wasn’t an issue with short local trips previously), so I ended up buying and trying a new saddle, then a series of the best rated woman’s saddles out there, and all of them did the same rubbing thing. Biking shorts and a gel pad didn’t help fully or much. She thought being more upright helped the rubbing, by taking pressure off the front of the saddle and putting it more on the sitz bones, so I got some big curvy bar ends and cranked them way back, so she can sit totally upright. I even added a nice suspension seatpost. But somehow the pain won’t go away. I’m really at a loss about what to do. I wonder if a new frame would help at all. Anyone find a saddle that really helps with sensitive bottoms? I’m leaning towards getting her a recumbent, but can’t really afford it, and she doesn’t tour with me a lot. I ride a bacchetta giro 20 myself and highly recommend it for touring! Thanks for any advice!

hi Jeff and all, dr. jim parker from cruzbike has compiled some very revealing facts regarding health issues cyclists commonly are facing, i.e. genital numbness & e.d. besides the usual (wrist,back & neck). i do suffer from groin pains riding on my dawes upride racing bike within 30–45 min.

hence for my upcoming uk & european (& car replacement) tour i am opting for an “atl-falter” from radnabel in tuebingen, germany. atl stands for “all tags lieger”(recumbent for everyday-all year/tasks); falter stands for folding. they are not well known outside of central europe, have been handbuild for nearly 30 years and are highly regarded for being — safe (long wheel base, low center of gravity), nimble (sharp turning circle), quick (ergonomic design & pushing against the backrest/very good uphills), comfortable (no neck, groin or wrist pain, full suspension), good load carrying capability [70kg total], “protecting” (see: allwetterverkleidung/foldable fairing/poncho), well engineered and sound workmanship. although dieter baumann (builder) speaks english, the webside is in german only. the atl-falter with rohloff, full chain cover, rear rack, pannier holders, twoleg stand weighs 17–18 kg (chrmo steel). 

you get an better idea about radnabels atl’s watching these videos:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZgX6zIViBY https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fsBEvBX_S4o

they have proved themselves also on long distance tours germany to china. happy cycling or as we say in bavaria: “frohes radln” regards reinhard

Ok, my thing about touring bikes, what about the weight?! Most tourers are just too heavy, 17Kg+ steel monsters. “They have to be, for the reliability”…well the only frames I’ve had break were a steel and an Al frame. Maybe you’ll say “blasphemy” but my trekking bike of choice is a modified carbon fibre Simplon “Nanolight” K3. My aim has been the lightest bike but still fit for a tour of up to a month on road. This thing has been faultless for 9 years of mainly mountain tours (and daily commuting). The essentials, for me, are: good hub dynamo lighting, hydraulic Rim brakes (discs are, expletive, Primadonnas), brooks saddle, bike rack, mudguards, oh and lightness. Everything is carbon or titanium, except the wheels, saddle and handlebar. it’s expensive but still less than people spend on fancy packages for their car. Final tour weight is around 9.1Kg. I even made my own bike bags out of lightweight cuben fibre. Yes the bike could be seen as excessively focussed on weight, but nowadays trekking bikes could be a lot lighter than they are, we would have many more people on bikes, heavy bikes stop people biking. J Jones.

I have noticed that all these touring bikes have no suspension in the front wheel. I am curious, why? Does a front suspension affect the performance of these long bike trips?

For most tours it’s simply not necessary. A suspension fork adds complication, meaning more to go wrong. Forks without lockout introduce inefficiency. Finally, most forks are incompatible with lowriders (front racks).

Bikepacking (i.e. lightweight offroad touring) is a different story, but still a small niche.

Is there an easy solution to fitting a front light to my Ridgeback Voyage with a bar bag in situ? I do not want an extending arm attached to the drops with the light above the bag. I was wondering if one can purchase a bracket to bolt onto the mudguard retaining bolt on top of the front forks immediately below the headset. This would have to be offset to clear the cantilever cables. Any thoughts Anthony

A bracket on the fork crown is a common (old-fashioned) solution. Some bar-bags also have a mounting bracket accessory for a light (the Carradice one comes to mind). Or you can wear a headtorch!

Thanks Tom for your reply, I have had lots of comments and thoughts from others on the Cycling UK forum too. As is often the case as soon as one starts looking into things there are loads of solutions available. I have learnt a lot just by looking at the various websites sugggested by people. I have now purchased a good light that will fit on the fork itself and and allow to be positioned pointing down to cover the road in front. Not a dissimilar situation from the old ‘ever ready ‘lamps that we had on our bikes back when I was a child in the 50s and 60s. Though this is a USB rechargeable smaller model. I think this will do the job. So thank you again for your thoughts and I will soon start to read your book on my kindle which arrived today. I look forward to that.

Great site Tom and full of excellent stuff and info. Keep it up.

Kind regards Anthony Brewer

Hi Tom and all, Has anyone any experience of the cantilever brakes designed specifically for tandems and tourers by a company in Seattle USA called Rodriguez bikes., R&E Cycles. They call the design ‘The Big Squeeze’. I looked into this as I am not sure in my mind yet whether my Shimano cantis will work on my Ridgeback Voyage as well as I want on a heavy laden bike on very steep descents. The contact I have had with the American company has been excellent and speedy. They have no distributers or outlets in the UK and the brakes are quite expensive but look with all the information they provide a well thought out and constructed brake. Any comments, opinions or knowledge on this from anyone would be very much appreciated Anthony Brewer

Spa Cycles, a touring specialist fit these. 

http://www.spacycles.co.uk/m2b0s101p2386/TEKTRO-RX-5-Mini-V-Brakes

I have used them on 4 loaded alpine and Pyrenean tours on my Ridgeback panorama and they have been great. They need fine tuning and true wheels but have plenty of power and work much better than the ones supplied by Ridgeback. My Panorama only cost £450 so I would be reluctant to spend $250 plus shipping on those. Also I am not a fan of the style I think they stick out too much and could cause injury in a collision.

Thank you Phil for your comment on these brakes. I use simialr V brakes on my hybrid as per your link to Spacycles. However as I understand things it isn’t possible (easily that is) to change to V brakes ( which I do like ) without quite some work. I have dropped bars with the gear change incorporated in the brakes. The length of the cable is significant and the possible use of a ‘travel agent ’ to allow for the cable pull etc etc. Are you saying that Spa cycles would change my present cantilver system to these V brakes advertised? As I said I have yet to test my present brakes seriously but will definitely be doing so this spring/summer. Thank you for the recommendation Phil Regards Anthony

No problem Anthony. I ordered them from Spa and fitted them in one hour and I am no expert. May have needed new cables and small sections of outer because of the lengths of the runs but it was straight forward. You can remove the original centre-pull aluminium cable stay as the new cable comes from the side. The original brake levers and repeater levers will work, no new ones are required as the travel is sufficient. I also looked into travel agents to gear up the travel but I agree they are complicated. The mini-vs don’t need the same amount of travel as the full size v‑brake. They are just 85mm not 105mm. Admittedly it is possible with them fitted the level can be pressed right onto the bars, but by that time you would be over the handle bars. The large amount of travel gives you precise control. 

It is very straight forward to fit but you could always order them and get the local bike shop to fit them.

PS the cantilevers supplied on Ridgeback tourers are on the verge of being dangerous on a fully loaded tourer down a steep hill. I recommend changing them to Tektro mini- v brakes I showed you or Tekro CR720 

http://www.highonbikes.com/tektro-cr720-cyclo-cross-bike-cantilever-brakes-front-rear.html?gclid=CjwKEAiArvTFBRCLq5-7-MSJ0jMSJABHBvp0WpP5LLsbie8YcECqv8AAZxpL0R1slUyaJFRFZzcQghoC0YTw_wcB

I don’t like them because as I previously said they stick out too much

Again many thanks Phil. You have certainly given me much to consider. However the Tektro CR720 are themselves cantilever brakes too. So I wonder why you have suggested these as a possible alternative to my present tektro Oryx cantilever brakes on my Ridgeback? They look very similar. I do appreciate your comments on this subject Anthony

the CR720s are used by my co-cyclists on tours and are much better than the oryx design in terms of efficiency. It’s all about the distance from the rim to where the cable connects, much more leverage. I included them as an alternative but would still favour the mini-v’s personally.

they look very different from your once fitted: http://bananarider.com/product/tektro-cr720/

Hi, would you consider Specialized Crosstrail Disc 2017 a good touring bike? I am looking forward to buy my first bike aiming to use it for a long tour (upto 3–6 months) next year around europe.

Also a doog opyion in my opinion: http://www.kross.pl/en/2016/trekking/trans-alp

I’ve recently purchased a Cinelli Hobooleg for £1100, although I’ve only been using it for my 10 mile commute so far I’m very happy with it.

It looks the part and from the reviews I’ve read it will hopefully see me safely around North Wales on my first proper test run later this month.

Looking at the features of these touring bikes they look like early 90s mountain bikes. 26″ wheels?Check. Steel frame? Check. Rigid fork? Check. 7/8 speed drive train with thumb shifters? Check. Braze ons for racks and fenders? Check. I would suggest folks keep an eye out for a good used mountain bike from this era and you could save a bunch while ending up with a bike just as robust, lighter and with higher quality parts(granted, said parts may need some love). I found an abandoned Rocky Mountain Team Comp which has frame tubing better than any of the bikes listed (heat treated tubing by Tange of Japan). The bikes of this era were of very high quality as it was the fastest growing sport then and the competition was fierce with leaps in steel tubing technology. Steel was still the material of choice also. I managed to build my bike up(it was missing a lot of parts) for maybe $500 and I have XTR rear derailleur, Sunrace 8 cassette, Suntour XC thumb shifters, Syncros stem, NOS XT UN73 BB…you get the picture. The additional bonus is a bike that is still quite light yet strong. I wouldn’t recommend this to someone who knows nothing about bikes but if you are a bit of a bike geek its pretty rewarding finding a good higher end mountain bike and fixing it up. Parts back then were very well made.

Hey Tom, Edinburgh Bikes have a new tourer out end of the month, http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/products/revolution-country‑2–16

I’m sure it’s similar to your reviewed bike above but would be great to hear your thoughts.

looking at a bike trip in 2018 from shanghai to istanbul semi-supported. been doing self-supported touring on my 25 yo trek 970 but the sour grape machine is ready to be retired. been shopping around and am considering the novara safari–i like the mustache handlebars and the price seems good but worried about the quality of components and whether 700 wheels are potentially a problem…i know 26″ is more the standard when you are in the middle of nowhere. any input would be much appreciated.

Tom, I have been researching touring bikes for quite some time and I think I have found the bike to start touring. Following your advice in this blog I picked up a 15 year old MTB that is in great shape. I will put on touring tires and a rack that I already own and I’m ready to go on some short introductory adventures. Perhaps if I really get the touring bug I will invest in a new bike but for now this will do and the price is right. Thank you.

For anyone currently looking, my local LBS, The Bike Shed Devon, have a bit of a touring sale going on at the moment. Definitely worth looking before making any decisions. http://www.bikesheduk.com/touring-bikes-for-sale

Thank you very much for the tip on discounted 2015 Dawes Galaxy AL bicycles from Evans. I just picked one up for £400!

Evans has also the Dawes Galaxy Cross cromo (steel frame, disc brakes, straight bars) for the same price. Looks like a bargain.

Having cycled and backpacked since I was at school, in my mid 50’s i decided it was time to combine the two persuites and try a spot of weekend touring. Not wanting to spend too much on a bike that i may not get on with, I bought my daughters barely used 2001 Specialized Hardrock off her. It cost me £225 new originally, so she recon I got a bargain at £40 second hand!!! It’s Cr Mo steel frame and rigid forks [not even butted], Acera group set, square drive triple chain rings and 26″ wheels, have a real solid feel, so after fitting Marathon tyres, racks, and bar ends, I treated myself to a pair of 46li Altus rear panniers and a bar bag. Packing lightweight and minimalist, my first weekend away was a real success. On my next outing of 4‑days, a rear spoke went after the first 20 miles, but no rubbing, so I finished my tour in the Cotswolds, but walked up a lot of hills. For my next trip in the Peak District, I had a new twin-wall rear wheel, and a new wider range rear cassette, still walked up many hills, but who cares, I was wild camping, and just making my route up as I went along. I keep looking at new bikes, but don’t know how I would really benefit, the bike just keeps rolling along happily for my short breaks. A new bike may weigh less. My rig weighs in at 16.5kg without panniers, how does that compare with other tourers?

So, the ultimate all-round tourer *is* a 26 inch wheel frame with geometry which looks like my many-times-earmarked-for-the-skip, first generation, double-butted cro-mo mid-80s MTB that’s in the shed? It confirms my own conclusions (though I’m no hardcore global wanderer like yourself). Interesting that it looks as if 26″ wheels will remain relevant. I was thinking there is a gap in the market for a longer and near-horizontal toptube frame style (with, perhaps, 29er wheels), instead of the downhill-style geometry which seems obligatory on all fat-tyre machinery.

[…] spend money on a good bike and the necessary gear you’ll find costs are minimal. Many good quality bikes can be purchased for less than £100. Many travelling bicyclists choose to camp at official […]

Thanks for the advice! I was faffing around for about a year trying to buy a touring bike in the UK but never quite got around to it. I’m now in Vietnam about to set off in a time pressured trip to India (through Laos, Thailand and Myanmar) and I no longer have the same access to the kinds of brands mentioned above(or budgets). I’ve found something called a Windspeed Long Rider touring classic, which is a Chinese brand, and the bike shop is offering a pretty good deal inclusive of accessories. Let’s hope it’s up to the job! Anyone have any experience or knowledge of this bike? Mostly sold only in Asia I think.

Hi. I am trying to choose a bike for touring around the world that would be a slow heavyweight may be some times off road and long term! but in my country there is not a wide choice for me! I have to choose a bike and change it into a touring one! my question is what kind of bikes is good for me! road bikes that mostly used here for races or mountain! here i can find bikes from Merida , giant, Fuji, Scott, specialized! of course I have an old Peugeot mountain bike that i was thinking about changing in to a touring bike but i am not sure! it is too old! thank you 🙂

Finally bought me touring bike, a Specialized AWOL DLT. Took your advice to try it and decided on a medium instead of a large frame (I’m 5′9″) since it was more comfortable. The problem was to find any bike shops who stocks touring bikes in Sweden, found only the AWOL, Kona Rove and Trek 520. As a plus I got a good discount, paid “only” £760 (Evans charges £1160) since the dealer said -“customers ask for touring bikes and then they do not buy them”!

Hi Rob, where in Sweden did you buy it ? I am in Norway (Oslo to be precise) and can´t find any shop stocking touring bikes.

Hi Francesco, http://www.cykelhuset.com sell Specialized AWOL, http://www.jarlacykel.se sell Trek 520 and http://www.fixmybike.se sell Kona. I have only ridden the AWOL and the Rove, both seemed very competent. Just on way back from virgin trip Sassnitz — Berlin, so far satisfied, love the 700x42c tires, perfect for tarmac and gravel!

Tom, for my 21st birthday I got a Cannondale T1000, 22 years and 15000 miles later (low mileage bike) it is going strong. It has been to Paris a couple of times, Amserdam 4 or 5 times and one long trip from Cherbourg to Santander as well as numerous day and weekend UK outings, it has towed a Tag Along for a fair few miles and had a child seat for some of its life. Much of today’s riding is spent on minor roads and tracks around the New Forest and Wiltshire. Few parts have worn out, I am on the second BB, and I upgraded the chainset to an ultegra, other than a couple of tyres, chains and cassettes I have had to do very little. I love the bar end shifters for their reliability, the XT cantilever brakes do a good job stopping the bike, even on 50 mph descents in the Pyraneese with full panniers and camping gear and my 80 kg weight. With an 11 to 32 cassette, 24 speed are fine on a tourer, spacing is well judged. It is really hard to imagine how it could be improved on.….

I just picked up a 2004 Cannondale T2000 for my son’s 13 birthday. Cost just £300 and looks fantastic, in fact looks new. I am surpised how light it is. It Has a few upgrades, including a nice Kinesis fork, which delivers a much nicer ride than my T1000 and it also has a 30 speed XT / ultegra group set and a really nice looking rack. Overall this is the nicest bike I have ever ridden, it is adjusted to perfection and feels really well sorted definately a subtle but noticeable upgrade from the T1000

How does an older mid range tourer like the Cannondale T1000 or T2000 compare with today’s mid range tourers like the Surly LHT or Daws Super Galaxy

To be honest I would be really confident that my Cannondale could tackle a more adventurous tour than I have tried

“If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” – that sums up any longer and more detailed response I could come up with! 🙂

hey tom! an interesting article you have here 🙂 hopefully you can shed some light on my situation. me and my mate are literally just starting out after training, we are planning a big trip! Our trip in mind is taking us from the uk, through france and to the south of spain. we figure that we want a bike that can take the distance, but can also take us as off road as is sensible. we plan on visiting a few cities also! (we’re thinking cobbled streets and some gravelly paths) so im not entirely sure what kind of bracket we fall under, but the bike i have put a deposit down for (buying new) and am collecting tomorrow, is a specialized sirrus, costing 400 pounds sterling. am i looking in the right kind of bike here considering our journey and our plans? 

as far as i understand (our beginner cycling pedigree in mind) pad brakes are risk free and easily replaced, steel frame and forks are more durable. would having flat bar handle bars restrict us some what? hope you can help! thanks, cillian.

For a trip to the south of Spain pretty much any bike will do, as long as it fits you and it can carry your luggage! (I hope you’ve test ridden this bike before buying it – most important thing of all in getting the right bike!)

Check out this blog series if you want any more info on specific components and things…

Thanks for the swift reply there Tom, yeah I’ve ridden the bike, but as I’m a complete novice, it feels better than any bike I can remember riding. I guess I’m concerned about getting a bike with the right geometry and what not! Any unbiased thoughts on the specialised sirrus as my choice? So long as it’s comfortable of coarse, thanks! Cil

Only that it’s not really a touring bike! £500 would get you a Revolution Country Traveller which would be fully kitted out for touring and has had a number of excellent reviews. You could also get a much higher-spec second hand touring bike for that money.

Fit is important, but if you’re buying a new bike it might make sense to get one that’s designed for the job at hand, rather than adapting a hybrid. Just a thought!

excellent advice good sir! its seems for now that we are settling for our hybrids in good faith that they will pay off when we are mooching around cities and taking scenic bridle ways! thanks a lot for the replies Tom, happy cycling!

Safe roads!

Do you or others on this site have experiences with the Co-Motion bicycles for touring (www.co-motion.com)? They are made in the USA (Eugene, Oregon).. 

I have a Surly LHT with many miles on it and wanted to updated to the new 2015 Disc Trucker with the 10-speen 11/36 cassette, but was considering the Co-Motion Americano. There is a LARGE price delta (Americano is around $ 4,100 US$.

Any experiences/feedback is appreciated.

Have a TERRIFIC day!

Darren Alff of Bicycle Touring Pro has it — Co-Motion Pangea — and he loves it! He had it even repainted recently and put back again: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0XAwqgXhRzc&t=23s See also his channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCGE4MRedy8pXEdJb9Vsx‑g

Most of the touring bikes I read about in this section either deal with 700c size wheels or 26″ wheels. I bought a Surly Ogre 29er and it’s been the best commuting/touring bike in my opinion. The wider wheels help to accommodate a wider tire (1.9–2.3) that helps absorb the load that you’d be carrying.

You can fit 1.9–2.3″ tyres on a 26″ wheel too. It is the original mountain bike wheel size, after all!

[…] Redninga for den som vil gjøre grundig research blir da å slå over til engelsk. Et bildesøk på “touring bike” bekrefter at dette begrepet har en bestemt betydning. Søket “which touring bike to buy” gir også en endeløs rekke med relevante og informative treff. Spesielt godt liker jeg rådene til min favorittsykkelblogger, britiske Tom Allen. […]

Hi Tom … any thoughts of including a recumbent in your Best Touring Bike selection? Like say an Azub 6? http://www.azub.eu/azub-5-five-recumbent-bike/

While they are the cost of two or three of the above selections I’m interested in your experience or opinions?

Because they’re very much in a niche of their own, I’d rather do a whole feature on recumbent touring options. Suggestions welcome! In the meantime, have a read of my own recumbent tour last year …

This has been an interesting read — as I’m a devout touring bike user, even though touring the world is not on my horizon. Suffolk and noerh Essex are most definitely part of my equation and between 50 — 110 miles per trip are not unusual along with cycling to and from work.

For 18 years I’ve enjoyed my long sought after 1997 Dawes Super Galaxy, which is now up for a complete drive train rebuild (and a return to drop handlebars but without those awful bar end changers), but I’m also keen to add a second bike to the collection as the Dawes is the only form of transport I have and really do need a bike to get to work for as early as 3am (outside public transport times).

My 2 options are the new 2015 Dawes Super Galaxy or the 2015 Ultra Galaxy. Yes, I’m sticking with Dawes, with my current Super Galaxy’s record why not? Also, I can get the bike via the company bike to work scheme and save some dosh. Whilst the budget is between £2000-£3000, I reason over 18 years this will become a bit of a bargain. So the question of this comment is really this:

What are the benenfits of the Titanmium Frame on the Ultra Galaxy over the Reynolds 853 tubing on the Super Galaxy frame? Do I really need to spend that extra £700?

Please, no comments about lucky you etc — it is 18 years since I last made this big an investment and apart from new tyres and inner tubes and a swap to butterfly handlebars the bike is pretty much as it came out of the shop (despite almost 100k miles of travel and commuting). I see this as the kind of purchase that is similar to that of purchasing a car…

Hi Andrew — what did you decide on in the end and are you happy with that decision? I find myself looking at exactly the same choice to make (Galaxy super vs. ultra). It’s not straightforward!

Although I am not a touring cyclist I put in quite a bit of mileage commuting (around 120 miles per week) using either a steel audax type bike (Ridgeback Mercury), alu hybrid or ancient Dawes Horizon (fitted with studded tyres for snowy/icy days). Fancying doing a bit of touring I recently bought a Revolution Explorer with disc brakes and have been riding it since Christmas. Has to be said that the disc brakes are a revelation compared to any sort of rim brake (I have tried them all apart from hydraulic); no constant adjustment, no rim wear, no filthy aluminium slurry all over the rims, silent and they actually work in the rain ( of which there is plenty here in Lancashire). The latter point saved me earlier this week when I had to do any emergency stop to avoid an idiot driver, I doubt any other sort of brake would have been up to it. And I am talking about BB5s which I understand are budget disc brakes.

I am about to buy an used tourer for occasional touring use for my son, he has a Ribble road bike. Budget £300 and I have a choice of Ridgeback World Voyage 2012 …520 CroMo.…Sora.…Alivio etc or a ‘Dale T800 2003, hardly used, Ally.…CroMo forks…Tiagra.…XT etc. I can easily make decisions at work involving lots of cash…but this one appears to have me foxed!! (I have a stable of steeds and tour on a Roberts Roughstuff, I should be able to choose!!!) Please help! Thanks one and all!

[…] utstyret du velger når du skal legge ut på en lang sykkeltur. På nettsida si har han skrevet om hva som er den beste tursykkelen. I eboka går han atskillig mer grundig til verks. Verdt å nevne er at han legger spesiell vekt […]

you forgot koga miyata 😉

I’ve just bought the 2015 Ridgback Tour.

Ive just this minute seen that aluminium frames have a much lower life expectancy than steel due to the fact that they fatigue — is this true? Ive heard that 5 years is the life expectancy of such a frame even if cared for? Have I bought a white elephant — as I planned to treasure it. Thanks.

I’ve just thinking that all bikes mentioned above are in price of year long trip. My humble suggestion is: buy retail! I bought a trek bike in pawn shop for 180euro and so far this holds for 4 seassons (16000km, regions spread from scandinavia to balkans) and now I’m preparing this beauty for 17000km long trip from czechia to indonesia. Throughout these trips I never broke a spoke (seen this problem many times in my friends Dawes) and punctured so few times that it can hardly be mentioned. So far I spend almost 6 months on the roads and during this time I spend less money than price of the cheapiest bike mentioned above.

So my advice is search it, test it, uprgade it, love it and than… finally ride it,-D Put a piece of your heart and skills into your piece of metal. Relationship between tourbiker and his bike must be stronger than click on ebay. Sorry for english and toilet phylosophy, I’m still upgrading,-D

Tom, I just wanted to say a very big thank-you for helping me choose the right touring bike. After spending many evenings checking your advice and loads of websites, I finally opted for a Dawes Galaxy Classic. I took your advice and went via eBay to Kingsway Cycles of Cambridge. I paid £900 instead of £1300 for a 2014 model! More importantly, it’s the right bike. I’ve only done about 60 miles since Saturday, but it’s really excellent. Kingsway are a great bike shop and really nice to deal with — none of that irritating superiority complex so common in good bike shops. I’d recommend them. Again, thank you. Alistair

Seven things:

Now the bike is bedding-in, before a big trip, have the LBS tighten your spokes and true the wheel(s) as required.

Take the time to ensure that the inside of the wheel rims have wide tape, not plastic or thin tape — you will thank me when you don’t get pinch-flats from the inner spoke nipples.

Chop out the brakes for V brakes. I have the same cantilever brakes, and they’re poor. It’s my next upgrade after upgrading my wheel set — as you can tell, this is real-world experience talking here!

If you fit a Ortleib (or similar) bar mounted bag, replace the existing gear cables with extra long ones since they are a little too short as standard and will crop over time and your gear shifting will become increasing difficult and then the front mech’ will cease working.

If you are running Shimano gearing,chain etc make sure the jockey wheels are not a 3rd party set, if so, buy Shimano ones, they work better than others.

You will notice as you ride, most of the touring bikes you’ll encounter are Dawes; how cool is that?

The enjoyment of your adventure is reflected in the width of your daft Cheshire-Cat grin, so grin, then grin some more!

Fantastic! I hope you get many years of touring enjoyment from it!

Hello Tom & Co.,

Do you have input on preferred bikes / systems for long rides with two young kids? 

Preferably sub-$2,000 (US), with a granny gear, and disc brakes.

I am trying to figure out which adult touring bike (and system) to use with my kids. The four-year old child will be in an attached trailer bike (with coupler), and the two-year old child will be in a chariot trailer behind that (via skewer hub)…unless someone has a better idea.

I already own a Specialized Tarmac for zipping around, and a Santa Cruz mountain bike for the trails. For a few years, I’ve reluctantly used my carbon fiber Tarmac for pulling my oldest child in the Chariot trailer. The ergonomics are all wrong, especially in the hills.

Now I have both a four-year old and a two-year old child, plus we live in major mountains. I want to do LONG family rides, and commutes around town (paved / gravel mixed). Ideally the bike could also be used for (solo) century rides. Once they are older, I’d like to explore multi-day touring with me on the same bike.

Salsa Vaya? Trek 520? Surly LHT, Cross Check, or Straggler? 

Big thanks!

[…] started thinking about this tour; my thoughts immediately went to the tried&true options for bike touring (Surly LHT for example), and I was waiting for a deal to pounce on online for months.  But living […]

3864 miles thus far (26 Sept 2014) around Britain and without doubt the most popular bike is the Dawes, maybe 80% (?) streel framed in the majority, and whilst we are at it, Ortlieb panniers, also in the majority.

I am on a 2008 Dawes SG. Rubbish cantilever brakes — to be replaced in short order. Replaced the wheels as the rims were concave, but she is an eBay Special (£590) likewise the four panniers (£83). Fantastic combo with Tubus steel racks.

Hi Tom, I believe the bikes from German Company Tout Terrain have a good name as well. Namely the “Silkroad” seems a fantastic bike to me. Expensive but has all the gimmicks I like to have (Rohloff and disc brakes). http://www.en.tout-terrain.de/bicycles/silkroad/

i was stranded in london on the 4th aug (after losing my oyster and bank cards) leaving me with just £10 and a predicament a quick look on gumtree found me a nearby bike (complete with 21 speeds and rack and double panniers inc cycle comp for my insane budget and now 10 days later its covered 120 miles and by far best buy ever for a tenner 🙂

ps i live 18 miles away in the subarbs so as to speak

Love the site, especially the discussions on this page!

I’m interested in your views on bar-end shifters. My wife’s Sabbath Silk Route was stolen in Amsterdam recently and she’s loathe to spend quite so much on a replacement. Many of the sub-£1,000 tourers seem to have bar-end shifters and she’s a bit nervous about taking them on. What are the pros and cons compared with integrated brake lever shifters? Quite like the look of the Genesis Tour de Fer but the bar end shifters are the only sticking point.

Pros: Simple, durable, reliable.

Cons: Less efficient to actually operate; inexperienced users whack their knees on them.

For a long-term tourer I’d take bar-end or downtube shifters over STIs any day.

I bought the Tour de Fer and did an 8 day tour in Greece. Its an excellent bike and I’m really happy with it but the bar shifters are annoying. I decided to upgrade the bike with a tubus tara front rack and a son dynamo hub with a plug usb charger. I’ll do a review of the bike later as I’m about to set off on a tour to Singapore something its probably not designed for but it came within my Ride-To-Work budget and I’m not a fan of the 26inch tourers I’d rather take my chances in the bikes shops. FYI the new version has a flat bar instead of drops and a tubus tara lowrider as standard — bonus! Love your site it’s been invaluable in my tour planning

You can always move the bar end shifters up onto the flats using a solution like Pauls Thumbies or SJS do their own version. It’s just a bolt on bracket with a mount for the shifter and a cable stop. If you ride mainly on hoods and flats then they are much easier to reach than down at the end of the drops. Cable maintenance is easier as well.

Many thanks for your excellent website. I’m thinking of doing Land’s End to John O’Groats and have seen a Raleigh Gran Tour at our local cycle shop. It seemed fine on a trial run round the block. Any significant pros or cons that I need to be aware of?

Nick check out the Surly Long Haul Disc Trucker it will be the best Touring Bike you will ever buy and will take you anywhere wheel size go for 26 and you can travel the world buy once not twice

Thanks John. I’ll check it out. 

Another issue that’s coming up is tourers vs endurance bikes. Any strong preferences either way, anyone?

Are you doing an endurance ride? Or are you going on a cycle tour?

Different tools for different jobs…

Hi Tom, I was wondering if you had any experience or knowledge of the Cinelli Hobo? It does seem to come as a fairly complete package as well as a 61 frame which is good for a tall person like myself.

I’m afraid I don’t! Sorry! It does look like a good bike, though.

I have a cinelli hobo for mixed trail touring. I find it incredibly comfortable and a really good load hauler. Some of the stock parts are pretty poor, particularly the FSA alpha drive chainset (replaced with Deore, and the alex rims on sora hubs which i’ve recently replaced. The weakest part of the setup for me is the microshift bar end shifters… I had real trouble keeping them indexed. I have swapped for an old pair of Tiagra STI shifters and these feel much better with a deore chainset and rear mech.

It has shorter chainstays than my old galaxy but still has plenty of heel clearance fitted with ortlieb classic panniers. The bars are the most comfortable I have ever used!

Overall i’m really pleased with it as it suits my choice of riding on mixed road, track and trail with a nice blend of cyclocross and touring capabilities… just a shame the marketing around the bike is so goddamn annoying!

I am planning a touring for next year, I was thinking to get a bicycle with a 29’‘ rim using a 28c tyre, i also plan to use mavic hubs, but i am not sure how tough a mavic hub can be on long touring distances, i guess i may not have problems as far i get some spare bearings and parts for the hubs. any suggestion about the rim sizes? will a 27″ rim do the same job as a 29’’ rim size? I have seen that NS has some cool looking hubs, i know they are for dirt-jump bikes, but those are something i consider dues they are do to resist hard impact of daily trainings, but my doubt is if a a hub for hard impact interfere with speed and smooth riding, by logic i guess it doesn’t interfere depending on what bearing it uses…am i right? Ps.: i enjoy cycling fast. lol

i found some other hub, the DT Swiss looks pretty good… but they don’t have a nice front hub with Disk break, that is what is pity, but i may get normal brakes, cos the disk brake has a high cost maintenance …

Where are you going? Your primary consideration is spare parts availability. 26″ or 700c wheels are the only sensible choice for 99% of tours, and I wouldn’t recommend anything other than Shimano cup-and-cone hubs with loose bearings and easy maintenance, ideally XT. They’re tour proven and won’t need a second thought.

Have found your website invaluable in the preparation of a bike trip my brother and I are making from London to Istanbul on August 10 (our first bike trip). I bought your book this afternoon on Amazon too as it should be a handy guide on the trip.

I’m just about to buy a bike and have come down to the Dawes Galaxy 2014 for £691 and the Raleigh Sojourn, which I founded hugely discounted here for £689 (down from £1,100!): http://www.ashcycles.com/site/raleigh-sojourn-2013 . I’d be very grateful if you (or anyone else on this page) could suggest what you think would be the better buy for my budget of £700?

Cheers, Shaun

Very glad you’ve found this site useful.

In my experience, which touring bike to buy depends on choosing the right tool for the job, and seeing what feels good to ride. I’m going to guess that you’re fairly sure both these bikes will meet your needs, but that you haven’t tried either of them out. So the only useful suggestion I can offer is to see which you can test-ride locally. On paper they’re as good as identical. You can discuss specification charts until the cows come home but it’ll all be irrelevant once you’ve actually started riding.

Ideally you’d test-ride both, but if you can only try one, then at least you can either eliminate it from your shortlist or confirm that it’ll do the job — then buy it.

The other critical reason for testing bikes out is to ensure that you get the right size, as incorrectly-sized bikes are the biggest source of discomfort and even injury on tour.

Hope this helps!

Thanks a lot for the tip Tom and appreciate you taking the time out to respond to me.

I’m based in HK and so unfortunately won’t be able to test-ride either of them (only a narrow window in London and they have to be ordered in advance), but if you say that the specs are identical then it makes the decision a bit easier — comes down to the aesthetics now!

I’ve got a KHS TR-101, bought from Cycle Surgery. Since these are relatively uncommon, I thought I’d put up my thoughts.

It’s a lovely bike to ride and I’ve done 2 3‑week trips to New Zealand South Island on it, usually somewhere between 50 and 100km a day. But I do think the brakes are not good enough for a tourer — I’m going to switch mine out after realising as I coasted down from Arthurs’ Pass in the rain with a loaded bike that I couldn’t stop even if I wanted to — and the mudguard fittings have been annoying — little plastic clips which pop ou, and which don’t hold the guard far out, so it rubs the tyres if the guard gets even slightly warped. Both easily replaced though. I’ve carried medium weights on it — prob. ca. 20kg — with ease, using both front and back racks and it feels very smooth and well-balanced. In fact, I think it’s the easiest bike I’ve ever ridden in that respect. Even the stock saddle is OK although I’m finally switching to a Brooks.

I don’t find the gears allow me to get up big hills when it’s loaded (but that might be just me — I’m not very gritty about hills.…) but it’s very smooth to handle and way faster than most other bikes off the bigger hills. 

I’ve done almost all on road on it and wouldn’t do off road again after an 80km run on the gravel Mavora Lakes road — it coped but it wasn’t nice (could have been the headwind…).

I’m planning one or two more 3 week tours on it (New Zealand again, and then maybe Sri Lanka) but am trying to work out whether in the long term I should just upgrade the parts, or actually invest in another bike. It’s a lovely cycle though — I’d really recommend it, although if you are looking for a real round-the-world workhorse it might be worth looking at some of the more established models. 

No bike is without problems, it aint about the bike without blood, sweat and tears :-X

Hi Tom — Great site, very informative and helpful. I´m looking at setting up my first Touring / Expedition rig.

Wondering if you wouldn´t mind commenting on Santos Bikes out of Holland? I see they make some great looking touring bikes, but only in Aluminium.…I asked them why they dont do Steel and their reply was that the Steel / Belt Drive combination is not good, ie to flexible and that the belt will wear just as fast as a regular chain, therefore, they go with Aluminium?? Any comment. Also, thoughts on the Belt Drive in Combination with a Rohloff Hub??

I´m looking at a go anywhere, do anything rig…2 week tours in Europe and RTW adventures. 

Thanks if you can help me out and keep up the great work 🙂

Hi guys, spoilt for choices,the steel v ali debate?? V brake or disc??Santos i havent seen but if its dutch id expect its a good bike, like koga who use aluminium for rtw touring(a reason people like ali is light for air transit, and it wont rust like steel) but can be a harsh ride,so invest in a suspension seat and a brooks saddle,backside will thank ya..Roholf or mech?? Roholf belt drive i have met a tourer using and he was happy with it, expensive combo but if it rolls for 100,000klm and comp have good rep. As it comes to preference and trail n error..I a bit like yourself wanted a rtw expadition bike. I got a thorn ripio frame which i then built up myself …doing that i chose my best spec bits xt tubus fsa brookes ergo etc( finding good reductions online) and most important get to know how it goes together ..useful as often u must rely on yourself to fix the problem and keep those wheels rolling:-) i like steel frames as they flex and are more comfortable with luggage…frames i would say are worth considering are as mentioned by others, surly lht , thorn and an excellent other is onone.…another option is to find a good old used bike/steel frame i.e 90’s atb/mtb models by specialised, trek, orange and upgrade as reqiured. Invest in strong wheels if offroading full loaded and good tyres, schwable marathon xr are excellent and after 20,000 klms they still got tread. A final thought an expensive shiny touring bike looks great to the owner and a theif, to protect my ride i wrap the frame in old inner tube and tape so protecting frame from damage and making my pride and joy look like a dirty ol ride! Thats all folks:-)

Thanks for the contribution!

Sadly the Schwalbe Marathon XR was discontinued years ago now 🙁

Hi tom and troops„, yeah the xr was too good „buy once product, found early originals recently 2 in holland…(where else.. for any tourers holland is ur candy store). So what u rollin on these days??? p.s u on a tour??? Bon route:-)

Not right now, no. But I have my own stash of XRs for when I am 🙂

Hi Tom, very interesting article. My wife and I are looking to buy touring bikes. We would use them in Europe initially — we have a small child who will be with us on a seat so we’ll leave Africa and Asia etc for a few years. I was thinking of a Genesis Croix de Fer , 725 reynolds probably rather than the expensive 931. What are your thoughts? Versatile but do you think they fall between two stools. Thanks, Mark

The Surly long Haul Disc Trucker not only Ticks all the Boxes but you will only ever need to purchase this bicycle Once No need to upgrade this bicycle will be perfect and last a lifetime of Touring wherever your dreams take you Go for the 26 wheels far stronger and gives you an extra gear on steep inclines happy cycling

Sorry, Now I have seen that you have an article about the Tern Link P24 and touring with a folding bike. My suggestion was totally redundant.

But no less appreciated! Thank you for a great summary (and much a much broader one than mine!)

Thanks Tom for all your great articles. I think that folding bikes are a serious alternative for long-term touring. Certainly less sturdy but have many advantages, easy to carry on planes or busses if needed or into hotel rooms and tents for added security. They are getting better with more reliable frames, even with full suspension (Reise und Muller birdy touring) and all the best specs up to Rohloff and dynamo hubs. Small wheels are not good beyond tarmac or good dirt tracks but there are a foding bikes with 24″ and 26″, though I will go for 20″ as a perfect balance between comfort, stable handling and still compact size when folded, bearing in mind it may nor be the best option to do the Pamir highway or crossing the Andes. There are some models speced for touring with pannier racks, mudguards etc. Tern link P24, Dahon MU with alfine 11 and the awsome Birdy. Worth considering.

[…] reading the reviews of Tom Allen and reading a bit about what is important in a touring bicycle, I became convinced that the Kona […]

Hello Tom, your website is amazing, well done! I’m about to undertake a long bike tour through Asia and Europe …unfortunately my budget is very limited. I think I will buy the kona sutra but I also saw this bike which I really like http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/bikes/model/anyroad.1/14819/66151/ Can you please give me some advice comparing the two models?

I will also convert the bike in an e‑bike with the golden motor magic pie conversion kit plus a solar panel . Do you think the conversion will affect the efficiency of the bike?

Thank you very much for the help Vince

Hi Tom, Great article thanks! I bought a 2008 Ridgeback Panorma World Tour in 2011 and I have loved every moment on it. It’s the old BMW grey model. I have been an occassional cyclist for much of my life but it was only when i got this bike that it really made me want to do more and more miles. We have done the UK coast to coast and will be doing the Way of the Roses in the next few weeks; also did Penrith to John O’Groats when I met up with friends doing LeJog. It eats up the miles and has been bullet proof. Once it’s rolling it flies and the Deore gearing gets me up anything. If anyone is considering this model I wholeheartedly recommend it. I swapped out the saddle for a Brooks B17 and put Ortlieb panniers on it and both have been unbeatable performers. I only wish I could match them 🙂 Cheers Mart

i thank for this advice.this would encourage many of them to cycle.i to got encouraged. i have cycled about Km400 this is just the start,i think all cyclist belong to one family.

I’m planning on building a bike for a round the world adventure but I’m overwhelmed by the choices of frames! Surly, thorn, Kona… The obvious choice for a frame would be a Surly Long Haul, but the geometry doesn’t fill me with excitement. My dream bike and frame is the Santos 2.6 (It looks and feels more like a MTB than a tourer), but at almost £800 for the frame it’s way out of my price range. Flat bars or butterflys are a must for me as I really don’t understand this facination with dropdowns. Top of my list currently and within my price range is a Surly Troll. What are your thoughts about the troll as a world tourer? Should I stick with the tried and tested Surly Long Haul (although I’m not sure if the LHT geometry is ideal for flat bars) or go a bit leftfield and try the Troll?

getting ready for a st malo — malaga ride in the spring and am looking at the Specialized Awol:

http://www.specialized.com/gb/gb/bikes/road/awol

How would you say it compares with the Kona Sutra?

Fantastic website, btw.…

It looks like an interesting bike, if a rather specialised one (sorry) — almost a dirt-road racer with luggage racks, which I think is what Kona have tried to do with the Sutra (mistakenly IMHO; should have been a new model altogether). It looks like a bike for light and nimble loads rather than fully-loaded touring, with 32-spoke wheels and the 10-speed Sora chainset. I’d be very interested to hear a road test report if you do go with it.

Bob Nally!! You may think trying to advertise in here is a good thing which either makes you extremely clever or extremely stupid, which is it folks?? thanks for the info Bob but just encase your advertising here hadn’t noticed this is a about info, advice and camaraderie between true people that have cyling in their heart and you may (or may not) realise this, anyway. guys im a very short woman 4.10 so finding it very hard to find a touring bike to suit me (my mountain bike is 14 inches) but i’m finding it very hard to find something withing my price limit Tom and everyone else, I’m looking for a man’s tourer that can suit my height (I CAN NOT STAND THE LOOK OF WOMANS BIKES) lol so hopefuly I can have Tom or someone else to give me a tip on a “short ass” tourer lol

Does Bob Nally work for Ash Cycles, then? If so, he probably has cycling in his heart too. I’m pleased to hear about it if there’s a relevant deal on, though it would be nice if people disclosed their affiliations of course.

What’s your price limit, Pam? The 26-inch Surly LHT is available right down to a 42cm frame. After that you’ve got seatpost, saddle, stem and cranks to tweak the fit.

For anyone looking for a new bike AshCycles (UK) have the Dawes Galaxy Classic 2013 (and many more bikes) discounted to £879.95 with free delivery.

Thanks for pointing this out!

Hi Tom, I´ve been falling you for over a year and love the movie and the book. I feel like the world is telling me to move south–I´m in Colombia right now and I want to go to Argentina. I am looking into bikes to buy here, and it is very difficult to find aone in a place full of little people (I´m 193cm tall). But that is a problem that I can manage. 

Here in Bogota, these types of cargo racks ( http://bogotacity.olx.com.co/biciclta-panadera-iid-578339198 ) are very popular and they can definately hold a bunch of weight (they usually come in black). I know that there would be wind issues, especially with the front rack–but what do you think of mounting one of these on the back or possibly mounting on both the front and the back of a bike. I´m not too worried about speed but much more worried about control. 

On another note, I bought this from kickstarter ( http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/flykly/flykly-smart-wheel ) and when it is developed and shipped to me this summer, I plan to use it to get from point A to point B… I don´t know if it will work or not, the only downside is that I cannot change gears with it… We´ll see. 

On another note–can you recommend a book for learning how to repair/assemble a bike… 

Thanks in advance for the advice and I will probably have a hundred more questions in the coming weeks and months… Say hi to your brother Ben for me… If everything goes to hell in a handbasket, I might just fly to Lebanon in February for the big event.

Hey Wes… faced with a cargo rack decision like that, the only way to know for sure is to take one for a test ride. I think you’d attract a fair amount of attention if you did go with it! 🙂

The Park Tool website is the number one resource for bicycle repair tuition. I’m not aware of a specific book, though.

Drop me an email if you have any more questions — always happy to help.

Hi Tom, just discovered your website and am so inspired that my wife, daughter and I are planning a tour to Paris next year. Anyway…I have a Specialized Sirrus hybrid that to my novices eye seems to be similar to most of the touring bikes above. The only obvious difference being aluminum frame, flat bars and no racks etc. The components all seem similar. Would there be much point in changing to a tourer? Cheers.

If you can fit a rear rack to that frame, you’re good to go. Even if you can’t, a seatpost rack will do you from here to Paris. Enjoy!

Touring bikes are great if you need full camping gear. I rode a kona Jake the snake lisbon-istanbul, cuba etc, cyclocross bikes should be considered for light touring is.bivy sack and no cooking gear. Super fast, built strong to off road and just more fun and nimble to ride, if that’s your thing. I haven’t been carrying front panniers though, not sure how would ride. I’d encourage really trying to lighten everything up, gear and bike, more rewarding — but this does assume staying within a few hundred km of a store/restaurant/hostel although can be self sufficient for a few days.

Just love this site, ride on tom!

Thanks Yuri. I can count the number of times I’ve been more than a day’s ride from supplies on the fingers of one hand. Almost everyone could “lighten up” and go fast and nimble. I guess it depends on your priorities for being on the road!

Was wondering why you haven’t put any of the Thorn Bikes on your list?..Maybe the Sherpa would be a good mid-range,no? Ian

I haven’t read all the comments so I don’t know if it’s been mentioned (I’ll also hold my hands up here and say I work there) but if we’re talking mid-high end touring bikes then Spa Cycles are worth looking at — http://www.spacycles.co.uk there is now a steel tourer available which is competitively priced.

If we’re talking relatively small UK touring ‘brands’ then Thorn would be worth mentioning too.

Thanks Ben! I haven’t included Thorn here as they’re a bit pricey for the mid-range, but I’ll do so in a future piece on higher end tourers…

No problem, really enjoyed the film on Tuesday in Leeds. Has given me even more enthusiasm for riding the 270 miles home to Dorset for xmas in a week or so. 🙂

I did 6000 miles on my 2011 Cannondale CAADX. The Only upgrade was a pair of heavy duty handbuilt touring wheels a Son 28 Hub and some Schwalbe Marathons.…. I have to say it was the driest 3 month trip you could imagine so the lack of crap picked up to wear the Bike out was noticeable… The Only mechanicals, 2 broken cable and about 4 punctures. Get your bike looked over/serviced before you go and remember this, when you ride your bike normally, what usually goes wrong… I bet nothing.….

Hello Tom & thanks for your very useful and cheerful writings. I’m just getting back into bike touring, and still using my faithful 1977 Dawes Super Galaxy, nearly all original but with a re-enamelling job on the frame. Still pretty well perfect for my long but slow road trips. Brittany’s rolling country is a mine of varied and beautiful scenery : have you tried it? All the best

I haven’t been to Brittany since a school camping trip in 1999… maybe I should 🙂

Tom, you’d be very welcome! so yes, maybe you should! You have my e‑mail via this page, I imagine, so let me know if you’re over here & the Super Galaxy will be wheeled out! 🙂

Hi Tom I’m looking for a top end light tourer that’s very comfortable, capable of going as fast as a tourer can go and at home on Tarmac and on dusty tracks. I intend to carry minimal luggage too. How does the Van Nicholas Amazon (or Yukon) Rohloff compare to the Thorn Mercury? Which would you chose?

I’m sorry but I have absolutely no idea! The only way to know for sure is to ride both. It sounds like your requirements are quite specialised, whereas I’m only really intending to cover generalist mid-range tourers in this article. Sorry!

Thanks a lot for the article. The best I could find on the issue over the net.

My question is, did you get to try Kona Sutra 2014 already? I can’t find any comparisons ; 2013 vs. 2014 — yet there’s the huge change of frame.

I haven’t ridden it myself, but here’s my piece on the changes .

I’ve got a bit of a silly question : How should a touring bike “ride”? I’ve been on “racing” bikes forever and find them comfortable and fun to ride. I’ve been hunting for a touring bike and while they are comfortable to cruise around a bit, they seem far too upright for my riding comfort (makes me feel like I’m riding one of those cheap stationary bikes at the gym, on the first one I tried, I had to drop all the spacers on the stem to get comfy, but then ran into issues with the brake stop/hanger not clearing the head tube) and they feel a bit sluggish and hard to “toss around”, especially when out of the saddle on climbs, even in comparison to my light-weight steel mountain bike. I can see why ultra-low gearing is recommended if all you can do is sit and hammer up the climbs. Is that how it is supposed to be?

Hi Isaac I have recently ridden from Adelaide to Darwin on a Tout Terrain bike and I think there are several characteristics that make the touring bike the right one for you. You need to be comfortable if you are going to spend up to 10hrs in the saddle and the more upright positions of most ‘tourers’, seem to take the weight and pressure from your hands/ arms. Also, the touring bike should never feel “twitchy”, especially when loaded. My Tout Terrain rides the same when laden or un-laden and when you find yourself carrying 15kgs of water plus all other camping gear etc, the bike needs to be predictable. Many bike frames will twist when under a load; as a result, your control, reliability and comfort will suffer. I also like having handlebars that give multiple hand positions, which helps with fatigue. The other consideration is that you are an accomplished road bike rider. You are ‘familiar’ with this lower profile riding position and the road bike handling characteristics. This may be why every other riding position feels foreign. Load up a few different bikes including a road bike and try them out on a few long day trips. Consider the advice of others, but ultimately you need to enjoy touring and your decision should be based on what is right for you. As Tom advises, just get out there and problem solve. In essence, ‘touring’ is not a race and almost any bike can be used. You just need to select the one that feels right for you.

Cheers Mark — I echo these sentiments.

Have you tried riding one with a full load (i.e. 15–25kg luggage split between the front and rear)? A touring bike should feel reassuring and stable under such circumstances as it’s what they’re designed for. Riding them unburdened is not going to give you a realistic sense of the ‘ride’.

Cockpit setup is largely personal preference, I think. I’ve seen people touring on everything from upright shopping bikes to mountain bikes to racers with drops — it’s what you prefer. Personally I choose being upright and able to look at my surroundings rather than tucked down grinding away at the asphalt.

Tossing them around and hammering up climbs is not really part of the touring style — taking it slow and steady, especially uphill, is what allows you to reach the end of a day with a hundred k on the clock.

Hope that helps!

Bianchi Volpe

just wondering if a cheap tourer such as the Raleigh Royal or Revolution Country Traveller ’13 would be suitable enough for a first tour of say 3–4 weeks on EuroVelo network through Germany? have done a bit of mountain biking before, and am a commuting cyclist everyday but I don’t really know that much about bikes

Any comfortable bike will do you for 3–4 weeks in one of the most cycle-friendly countries on the planet!

I can vouch for the Revolution Country Traveller. For the money (£430.00 in the sale!) its a surprisingly comfortable and capable bike. Swapped the saddle to a Brooks but otherwise its been perfect.

I saw that the link for the Rocky Mountain Sherpa was broken. Here’s the new URL:

http://www.bikes.com/en/bikes/sherpa/2013

I am moving to Norway and want to get more into touring, would an 2005 trek 6500 mountain bike work for touring? Link to the bike http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/2005/archive/trek/6500/#

Any bike will work for touring if you’re determined enough!

You’ll just need to find a way of mounting a rack. Tubus do seatstay clamp kits for bikes like this. Your other option is a trailer like the Extrawheel .

Thanks for the guide. Think I’ll go with the surly long haul trucker. Why? Because I saw a girl with one on the train after she’d come back from an across Britain ride. So I wanted one!

Lo mejor es que a partir de la accin y de la memoria del equipo. Una vez instalado aprieta el botn de encendido que ven en la nube. Sabemos que Nokia ha lanzado un nuevo juego java para celular, es que HTC podr renacer y volver a reproducirlo. La informacin recopilada en nuestro sitio Hoy 9tres tecnologia y servicios estimamos los mejores del ao. Llegaron a descubrir la agricultura y la envia a la interconexin entre centrales 9tres tecnologia y servicios y pblicas. La interfaz es mucho ms fcil, pero me parece curiosa la decisin 9tres tecnologia y servicios de Acer de incorporar Windows 8 que posee? brujerias para enamorar a un hombre http://journals.fotki.com/watersbaxq/my-blog/entry/krbkbqdfbfrr/

Tom have a look at Thorn Sherpa I have one it’s great

Hi Tom, it’s that time of the year when all you want to do is load up your bike, jump on the ferry to France and just go wherever the mood takes you. It’s also the time when you just devour all the reviews and conversations about bikes and gear and destinations. I love it. I’ve had my Dawes Super Galaxy for over 25 years now. It’s the single best item I have ever spent money on and, if I had to get rid of all my bikes bar one, it’s the one I’d keep. I’m in awe of its Rolls-Royce levels of reliabilty, comfort and smoothness. I’ve ridden 10s of thousands of miles on it and it still rides like a dream every time. All the way across the Pyrenees last year; fully loaded, 900kms, 50,000 ft of climbing, horrific weather, faultless. If the new models are as good as the old ones (and they should be) then you couldn’t go wrong with a Galaxy.

Hi, I am not new to cycling but am to touring. I just purchased a Tout Terrain SilkRoad Frame with derailleur hanger (not getting the Rohloff hub version) and want to build it up with durable components. Plan on using drop bars, 26″ wheels, and cable disc brakes. I also like grip shift but don’t know if this is compatible with drop bars, or even if they are still made. Would prefer mountain bike components. Any recommendations for which components group (model year 2013) to get that would be true and durable. I hear Shimano XT is good and light but durability is not what it used to be. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks in advance. J

PS Cash is a factor but don’t want to sacrifice quality either.

Ideally you’d build an 8‑speed drivetrain from a mixture of components (8sp chains being thicker than 9sp and therefore longer lasting). Deore to XT ranges are durable and rugged. Beyond XT it’s about saving weight for racing, with durability sacrificed, so don’t go there. 

The rear derailleur will take more abuse than the front one. 9sp Shimano rear mechs work with 8sp shifters (at least, mine does).

Grip shifts are certainly still made but I have no idea about using them with drops…

Many thanks for your response Tom; the questions you wrote are certainly eminently practical and sensible.

Perhaps it could be assumed that 32 spoke set-ups are strong enough, given that Rohloff and the expedition bike manufacturers, who stake their reputation on reliability and longevity, use that set-up. Though, having said that, it seems Rohloff are now making a 36 hole hub (according to their website).

According to the Thorn website, spoke breakage was an issue; an issue they solved by drilling the spoke holes on the rim differently. Presumably Santos use the same technique as they also hand build their wheels.

You are absolutely correct in saying that the long distance cyclist should be able to repair such things as broken spokes and derailleur malfunctions (and etc). In terms of enjoying trips though, It’s much nicer if nothing goes wrong (ie Murphy’s law takes a holiday). As much as I enjoy servicing and working on my bikes (the mechanics are such “elegantly simple” bits of technology), I prefer the comfort of my own garage. For those reasons a reliable, strong and well prepared bike would be desirable — and that is an answer to your original question about “which bike?”.

Regarding derailleur and Rohloff gears — derailleurs have certainly stood the test of time, though newer sets with more gears may be more finicky than older versions. For that reason, and when the range of use-able gears is considered, the Rohloff hub is attractive (except for the cost — a 60000 km break-even point may not be achievable for many tourers). Interesting that you have heard of misfortunes with Rohloff hubs — I hadn’t, which indicates that I need to do more research. Perhaps a question to be considered here is, “why are top-end touring bike (and some MTB) manufacturers using Rohloff hubs?” Presumably the perceived reliability is a part of the answer to that?

Mind you, all the theorising in the world is still bound by practical experience. 4000 km into last year’s trip the drive train needed replacing (this inconvenience was my fault really, as I should have renewed the components before setting out — the bike was relatively new and I left the original equipment just to see how long good quality components would last). The chain and cluster were easily replaced, but I had to ride another 1000 km without the use of the middle chainring, until I was able to buy a suitable replacement. It was then that I started considering alternatives — a Rohloff hub is one possibility, perhaps also the gears at the bottom bracket, such as fitted to one of the Tout Terrain models.

Anyway, interesting discussion and I look forward to your assessment of the “upper” end of the touring bike market.

Thanks again

If it helps, the builders I’ve spoken with say that the 32 spoked Rohlof hub is stronger than a handbuilt 40 spoked tandem wheel. This makes sense when thinking about dishing and the inherent weakness it introduces to the wheel. The other thing, of course, is that it is easier to repair a broken spoke on the chainside of a Rohlof hub than on a dished wheel with a cogset.

This has been a very interesting discussion — many thanks.

In response to your original question about other brands that might be considered be considered; no one seems to have mentioned the Santos Travelmaster bikes, in 26 and 28 in sizes and in aluminium or cromo.

Now, if I may lead to a dilemma. In one of your responses you referred to a concern that a new derailleur gear system with 30 gears may not yet have been “proven” to be reliable for long tours (paraphrasing your response). That is a good point, borne out by my experience — my older 26 in MTB/hybrid has 21 gears (perhaps indicates how old the bike is) and has never needed adjusting, while my newer 28 in with 27 gears needs frequent attention. Even though I do all the servicing myself and can generally adjust the gears satisfactorily, it can be a pain spending time adjusting the gears while touring (I’d much rather be riding or photographing or sipping cappuccinos in a wayside café). This has led me to consider a Rohloff hub.

That leads to the dilemma. The Rohloff hub bikes (Tout Terrain Silk Road, Thorn Nomad, vsf TX1000 and Santos Travelmaster and possibly Gudereit are all under consideration) all use 32 spokes. I am nervous about dropping from 36 spokes. The theory is that, because the Rohloff hub does not require a “dished” spoke set-up, it is stronger (than the equivalent deraileur set-up). The issue is that I cannot find any info that states how much stronger. One blog mentioned that 26 in wheels are about 10% stronger than 28 in wheels (with the same number of spokes) — but what the 10% is “of” was not explained, and what the measurement of “strength” is was also not explained. Questions remain hanging — is a 32 spoke undished 26 in wheel stronger than a 36 spoke 28 in wheel, for example? What is the “hierarchy of strength” when considering 26 and 28 in, dished and undished wheels?

This leads, of course, to really basic questions such as, for example, “would a vsf TX1000 ( 28 in wheels with wider tyres) be as strong as my current 28 in with 36 spokes”? How much stronger are the Santos wheels with 32 spokes, given that they are hand-made? And so on…

So, if there is anyone who could shed light, with facts, on this dilemma, it would be very much appreciated.

As a final point, I wonder if the steel/aluminium frame issues is now a non-issue — an idea espoused by a metallurgist-cyclist when considering modern frames?

Many thanks

Hi Phil. Thanks for the detailed comment.

The main reason I haven’t included the Travelmaster here is because it’s a top-end touring bike, whereas in this article I’ve been focussing on mid-range bikes. I’ll definitely include it in a future article about top-end bikes, though, along with the other bikes you mentioned — thanks for bringing them to my attention.

Regarding hubs and spokes, I think that the important question here is:

“Would Rohlhoff hubs be fitted to top-end touring bikes if spoke-count was a real issue?”

I doubt it. I hear more tales of Rohlhoff internals failing than spokes breaking. Which begs another question:

“Is it easier to repair a derailleur system or a Rohlhoff wheel on the roadside?”

My money’s on the derailleur. That’s why I’ll keep using them over internally-geared hubs.

And instead of asking what percentage of extra strength 36 spokes gives over 32, I’d be asking:

“Am I able to replace a broken spoke?”

Because that’s what you’ll be thinking when a spoke does inevitably break 🙂

I’ve been using a VSF TX1000 for over a year & completed over 2,000 miles (fully loaded) last autumn through Spain & France on a variety of roads & canal paths… my experience has been very positive… the 32 spoke Rohloff & Son28 wheels show no sign of wear & are true as the day I got them????

Hi Tom! Any comments on the Brodie Elan: http://brodiebikes.com/2013/bikes/elan.php

I tested the Sutra but after trying both 56 & 59 could not make up my mind on what was the right size for me. I am 6 feet tall so I guess I might be somewhere in between. On the other hand I also tried the Brodie Elan 54 & 57 and the 57 felt to big for me… Thanks in advance for any feedback

I’m surprised that the Fuji Touring did not make your list. I’ve been looking around and it seems like a solid touring bike at a good price. 

BTW — I just stumbled across your site and I’m impressed! I’ll be back soon.

Hello, Tom. Why you advice only steel frame bicycles? There’s a lot bikes with alluminuim frame and fork. It’s lighter and easy to buy everywhere.

The main reasons are durability and for ease of repair. Steel has a much longer fatigue limit, and in case of breakage can be welded anywhere by anyone with basic welding equipment. Aluminium, on the other hand, needs specialist attention — in less developed countries this could mean going to an airport. Frame breakages are not uncommon on long-haul tours and that’s why most quality long-distance touring bikes are still made of steel.

Personally, I also prefer the ride quality of a steel frame; there’s a little more give over the very stiff ride afforded by aluminium. For long term comfort that does become noticeable.

For short and occasional touring, I have no doubt that most aluminium frames would be fine, though.

Tom, that old chestnut about a steel bike being welded anywhere by anyone is quite amusing. That is the theory. In reality it takes a skilled welder who has experience with bicycle frames to do that job properly. Yes, you might get a rough cut job to hold your frame together to the next port but on a loaded bike i would’t fancy it. And how many people do you know who have actually had this done in practice?

I do agree with you that the steel frame gives a much nicer and more comfortable ride and that such a frame has much better strength which are great reasons to get steel.

Lots. Including me (Yemen). Andy (India). Al (Sudan). Etc. There’s quite a list. Very common story on very long trips. The fact that any old welder can get you to the next port is the whole point. We all had steel frames and we all managed to continue riding.

On the other hand, I know several aluminium-riding tourers who ended up hitchhiking with broken bikes and then waiting around in cities for new frames to be couriered out because they couldn’t get them repaired at all.

Salsa , Rivendale , Co Motion , Koga Miata — if you looking for really nice touring bike. Expensive but for long run cheap — it is simple , you get quality what you pay for .….. Years back I on $ 400 sligtly modified Raleigh Tarantula MTB , ( now overhauled and equipt with top of the line comnponents still in use for trails in Rockies ) I did made trip from La Paz to Chile . Want to safe some money . It teach me ! Never ever I will make this kind of mistake again .…

Another bike similar to ones already mentioned is the Rocky Mtn Sherpa. I’ve been riding a 2012 model for 8 months and am pretty happy with it. Pros- 36 spoked wheels, 27 gears in a wide range, stiff frame. Cons- the braze on placement on the seat tube (the front derailler is attached between them), I’d like bigger chainrings up front, It doesn’t do well off-pavement.

Cheers, David. I wonder why Rocky Mountain haven’t fitted a rack to this bike — I know people can be picky about racks, but I do think touring bikes at this level should be ready to tour off-the-peg as well. Nevertheless, it certainly looks like a good option. Thanks for the addition!

I was looking at Jamis Aurora Elite 2013 (cannot find the 2012 anymore). However some reviews describe it as a “light tourer”. I understand the problem of the 10-speed cassette. But what would make it a *light* tourer.

A ‘light’ tourer would usually mean a bike that’ll carry some luggage on a relatively short paved-road tour, but probably suffer off-road and with lots of luggage in the long-term.

I have just purchased an audax cycle from my local cycle store (Surosa cycles in Oldham, Greater Manchester, UK) as they build their own frames.. and had it custom built with my chosen spec for a total of £1266 and it’s a very good bike with mudguards, and a heavy duty rear rack with rack bag and 56L panniers.. soon to have an addition of handlebar bag, and front rack and panniers and I’d feel happy to do some touring on that over any distance

That sounds like a good price for a custom frame and build. I’d be interested to know the spec?

People will choose their bikes according to all the factors mentioned by you, Tom, and by other contributors. For some, keeping costs low is paramount and for others, strength and reliability are the main considerations. I think there are also intangible factors such as each individual’s self image as a cyclist and the emotional resonance of one bike or another. I’m far from wealthy but I appreciate the inherent value of high quality engineering and get enormous satisfaction from assembling my own bikes. After much research and deliberation I bought a high quality European frame and a mix of German, Japanese, American and British components. The complete set wasn’t cheap but I did make a considerable saving compared with buying a similar bike off the shelf. I also bought a wheel truing stand and gauges, and built my own wheels. I wouldn’t claim to be an expert bicycle mechanic but the experience of assembling my own bikes has provided not only personal satisfaction but also great confidence for dealing with routine maintenance and potential problems while far from home. I don’t believe there is any one ‘best touring bike’ and I’m skeptical about such claims. The message I take from this section of your blog, not to mention many other bicycle related blogs and websites, is that bicycle touring is a growing phenomenon and that it is rich with variety, in both equipment and people. That is surely a good thing.

You are absolutely right; there is no one-size-fits-all solution. I can completely appreciate the process of building a bike up from carefully-chosen top-end parts (as I did myself in 2007), just as I can appreciate the idea of rescuing an old bike from a scrapheap and bringing it back to life (as I’m doing right now)!

Thanks for the very thoughtful comment!

Just about to buy the Ridgeback Journey for some UK touring — perhaps France too next year. I’ve been seduced by the Alfine gearing. Am I being wise?

In 2009 my Roberts Roughstuff (with Rohloff hub) was stolen in Bulgaria with only 2000 miles on the clock. So that I could continue my RTW trip, I bought a Drag ZX5 mountainbike in Sofia, with replacement Schwalbe Marathon tyres, butterfly bars and comfy saddle, plus front and rear racks, stand, fenders and the two components of my wireless computer that had disappeared with the Roberts. The first bike cost just short of £3000, the second (Sofi) cost £500 and has now completed around 18000 miles. I’ve asked myself many times, ‘why did I bother spending all that money in the first place?’ The BMC paid out £250 in insurance btw.

Hi Anne i followed your adventures on crazy guy, was epic. Were the gears on Sofi deore or lesser Regards Pete.

I have almost completed a round the world bike ride on a Koga Signature with a Rolhoff gear system. During my four years on the road i have changed tyres, chain, brake pads and the bike was serviced in Australia and Los Angeles. I am still running with the original rims, no broken spokes and the Rolhoff is bomb proof. The Koga in my humble opinion is by far the best bike on the market. Ive been on wonderful smooth highways, Australia, USA and dirt roads that you wouldnt take a Land Rover on in Patagonia and Bolivia but the bike has just kept going, ive done over 30.000 miles on with not one problem, it still has the original bottom bracket. If you want to ride around the world buy any bike if you want to return home problem free then buy a Koga Signature.

Hi Robert, I was offered a World Traveller today for €1200 (2013 with 500kms) although I’ll probable go for the Kona Sutra as I perceive it to have a broader and more efficient range of use and I have no plans for outside Europe. How did you find your bike on load touring, daily tasks?

Sorry mate, we are going to drop the http://www.8pedsls.com site. To expensive to keep up for the entire 4 years. 

http://Www.facebook.com/8pedals http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/?o=1&doc_id=11458&v=3Z

So we are now on fb. And crazy guy on a bike. 

I would put my vote for the BB7s. A mechanical system may require more pull on the lever than a hydraulic system it doesn’t have all the potential service issues. The BB7 are durable and been around for a while. The nice thing about the BB7 vs the BB5 is that both pistons are adjustable on the bb7 making the setup and adjustment easier. Also the 7 brake pads are bigger than on the 5 which would make you think it stops better. I can’t comment on the ease of finding pads since they are not on my tour bike but since the bb7 uses a Juicy style pad it may be more common. For me I always carry spare pads regardless of where I am. The sintered metallic pads will give you longer pad life…just make sure that your rotor is rated for a metal pad. 

The other nice pluses for disc setup is no wear on the rim from brake pads, better stopping power in bad weather/muddy conditions and if you break a spoke or come out of true your brakes are still fully functional. The downside however is more strain on the hub shell and if you bend a rotor it can be next to impossible to get it perfectly straight…and there is the advantage of having both pistons adjustable on the bb7.

Hi Tom, I’ve read about Thorn bikes before (specifically the Raven) — any views?

Also, I would be interested to know why drop bars are so popular. I find a more upright cycling position more comfortable so would probably choose bullhorn or butterfly bars, but hardly any bikes seem to have these. 

What’s your view on disc brakes? I notice that the Kona Sutra has them — does it not cause an issue when you run into maintenance problems, especially outside Europe? (I would apply the same logic to hub gears).

I ride a Raleigh Royal, which is fine as a sturdy budget option (£500).

Thanks for article, really really useful!

The reason I haven’t included Thorn is that most of their models are above the price range I was aiming for here. I’ve never ridden one, but I have been told by several people that they’re great bikes, and that the people who make them are quite obnoxious.

I’ve found drops to be comnfortable, but I never use the dropped part except for shifting. I would imagine that’s fairly normal. Instead I make use of the various hand positions available on the upper part of the bars, which is at a height comparable to other types of handlebar once you’ve raised it with spacers and an angled stem, such as on the Kona Sutra. You get a very comfortable and fairly upright position out of that arrangement.

Before, I used an adjustable stem and riser mountain-bike bars. Now when I sit on that bike I feel like I’m on a Harley Davidson with pedals!

Disc brakes — well, models like the Avid BB7 have been around now for long enough to prove their reliability in the long term. They use the same cables and levers as V‑brakes, the mechanism is simple, and they’re maintenance free, except for changing the pads, which you can carry with you. They last longer and are lighter than V‑brake blocks. They’re also becoming easier to find spares for outside Europe. If your fork has V‑brake bosses, you’ve got that option in case of a really unlucky breakdown or accident. So I think the risk is now a very manageable one.

Thanks for the budget bike suggestion — I’ll work that into a future article.

All the best!

Hi Tom, and everyone! I’m one of those lucky enough to be able to afford several bikes, so I can make some comparisons based on experience. If you live in the U.K. it is definitely worth looking at the Thorn bikes as they are just so well built and I can vouch for the ride being ultra comfy and smooth for long days in the saddle. If you look at their prices they seem to be expensive at first but on their website they often have amazing deals on bikes they already have built up. They are absolutely worth it and are designed by someone who really knows how to get touring DNA and experience into a bicycle. The Surly Troll is another great choice with even more versatility in the drivetrain area but rides more like an MTB ( which it is ) than the Thorns. A word of advice for those who are wondering how to carry stuff. get a Burley travoy, the trailer that packs up into a shopping bag. It is a game changer and can carry a lot.You can get the load off your bike with it and still have a rack and space for other gear on your bike frame. Sometimes you can park it and ride your bike ‘naked’ without being bogged down with gear. It is the single most amazing piece of touring gear I have.

Ooops! Forgot to mention about disc brakes. I’ve got both systems. I find that disc rotors need to be perfectly flat for good performance and once they get bent even slightly on a tour they don’t function as well and are a pain to straighten out. They also can squeal a lot. For the first reason I found V brakes better for serious touring. Even though the disc fashion is popular now, i wouldn’t go that way for touring and seriously, a good pair of V brakes will stop you just as well. Concerning hub gears. My Rohloff and Alfine units have given me ZERO problems and i mean zero plus they are weatherproof. Derailleurs are not . If you have good mechanical skills you(ll be happy with them but if not definitely go IGH if you can afford it.

A tip for straightening out a bent rotor is to use an adjustable spanner to grip the rotor at the warped point and then give it a few nudges back in the right direction. With a bit of care this’ll cure all but the most traumatic bends.

Thanks for the comment! I have heard lots of good stuff about Thorn, and I’m sure they deserve their reputation. I’d put them in the “top-end” category on price point, which is why they’re not included here. One day it’d be nice to try one out… (hint!)

Re drop bars: I wouldn’t want to tour without them, and I use them a lot, but especially when I have to ride into the wind. On any tour, there will be long hours, and sometimes days, when the wind is blowing head-on, and I’d go nuts if I had to be sitting straight up, catching the full force of the wind, the whole time. However, it’s important to note that not all drop bars are the same. Some bars are marketed as “randonneur” bars, and they allow for a wide range of positions, which is really important as you can change positions frequently and relieve tension on your hands, wrists, neck and shoulders. On my current bike, a Surly Long Haul Trucker, the stock (drop) bars are very good. I probably spend the most time with my hands on the top section of the bars, but it’s a blessing to be able to get right down into a crouch when I have to ride into the wind.

The Paul Hewitt Cheviot is a very good bike too.

Tom I think the comment that the 5 models you showcased are basically the same bike is spot on. Yes there are bikes with better components but the few that you chose will do the job. Its easy to build a $5000 tour bike and I have seen several. However at the end of the day I would prefer to have a tough as nails work horse that doesn’t mind another scratch or two. 

I laugh as I think that my wife’s tour bike frame, a steel Rocky Mountain Soul, was perfectly fine and yet was about to be thrown into a dumpster when I saved it. Put a fork on it for 75 cents from the reuse it center and then built the rest from bits and hand me downs of solid mid range mtb components. For a few hundred dollars I built a bike that has easily survived several hard tours. It took a little time and patience but in the process I learned how to fix just about everything on the bike. Not to mention the satisfaction of giving it a new life. Now I would never consider buying a new bike from a shop. There are just so many great used bikes that would make a perfect tour bike project. With the internet as a resource you can research just about every part there is. It however takes time.

One more little story. On our trip to India, one of our group bought a $100 bike off craigslist in Vancouver. We checked it over and and made sure everything was sound and then shipped it over. She rode it for a month on tour and then donated it to an orphanage. Think they were happy? It was a pretty special moment. Would I have ridden it around the world…maybe not but it served the purpose and then some. Sometimes its just not about the bike.

Hey Henric — thanks a lot for this perspective. 

I agree that renovating an old bike is just as valid as buying a new one. (In fact, that’s a project I’ve got on the go at the moment.) I do also think, though, that there’s room for everyone to have their own way of approaching the situation — a new bike might be what takes someone from a dreamer to a die-hard cycle tourer — and for another person, the love that goes into a rebuild of a completely unique vintage bike may achieve the same thing.

Thanks for your input!

I pulled an old green Chicago Schwinn Varsity off the trash when I was in High School, fixed it up and rode it for a long time. Last year I put new wheels and tires on it, and then had to replace the rear derailleur. This year I’ve put saddlebaskets on it and use it to go to work everyday, and am planning to take it on a short 200 mile tour this summer. The only gripe I have with it is that the original gearset doesn’t have quite a low enough first gear for the hills in Albuquerque, but when I get back to Chicago next week it should be just fine again. Absolutely reliable bike (though it’s really heavy at 45lbs without the baskets, close to 55 or 60lbs with the baskets)

Fantastic. That’s the spirit.

I love my Surly Troll.

A real work horse and rides suprising well both loaded and unloaded. I personally think it’s better than the LHT because it’s a great alrounder.

It does look good. Rear triangle & caliper positioning like the Sutra. Very flexible-looking setup!

I’m lucky enough to own a pair of touring bikes, a Thorn Sterling ( discontinued I think ) and a Troll, both built to my spec, with Shimano XTR v brakes ( I don’t like discs, squeaky, rotors too easily bent ‚hard to replace on a tour, and extra weight ), They are both fantastic bikes but with a different ride quality. The Surly is a bit more agile, rides more like a trail bike, but for putting on the miles when you are going to be riding seven or eight hours a day, the Thorn just cruises through it sffortlessly. It’s also one solid bike. Don’t believe i’ve ridden any another frame that is as comfortable as the Thorn for long days in the saddle. For those shopping for a tourer, I’d give careful thought to whether you’ll be on or off road. Both of my bikes can handle either but they both excel at only one.

For several years I have gone on a European cycle tour with my tent and cycled for a period of no more than six weeks. I have had a couple of good touring bikes which I upgraded the wheels to Mavic 719 and the gears to Shimano XT As I got older now 62yrs of age I decided to invest in a Thorn Mercury straight handlebars and a Rolhoff Hub including Disc Brakes the result is perfect my saddle is a Brooks B 17 the bike is a dream to ride 853 Reynolds Steel Stiff and flexible to enjoy many miles in the saddle As for the Rolhoff I could Never Tour with a derailleur gears again the Rolhoff is all they say it is German engineering at its best the people at Thorn did a first class job their manner appears firm but they certainly know their business and I am really pleased with my byclcle Thorns lowered the gearing to its maximum and I can climb most hills fully loaded if it’s touring on Tarmac with the occasional canal towpath I recommend the Mercury byclcle and with Swarbe marathon plus tyres your bike is bomb proof I am always amazed when cyclists talk about weight on a byclcle yes if you are racing but when you Tour a couple of kilos really makes no difference my only regret is I didn’t purchase a Rolhoff years ago not cheap but it will last you a lifetime and should you upgrade your bike you can transfer it to your next byclcle making the former into a single speed for training purposes as for disc brakes when I am fully loaded coming down a steep mountain side I know I can safer stop otherwise it’s possibly very hot wheel rims and possibly wheel failure it just depends on what kind of cycle touring you wish to do if it is traveling in south east Asia 26* wheels and no disc brakes but after cycling for over 50 years I believe I have finally found what works for me

Hey Tom. Just found your site. Thought we would say hi. We are in the midst of organising a lap around the world in 2014. For 3 years. Great site look forward to investigating it further. We r using 1 Surly lhdt, 1 world Randonneur $ 2 giant boulder bikes. Check it out under bike specs on out 8pedals site. Early days for us. 

Thanks! (Everyone else, check out 8pedals.com !)

Walmart sells nice bikes (really). I ride combined packed dirt (nation forest) roads and paved. I use a dual suspension 21sp MTB upgraded with wide seat and swept back handlebars, better tires. Racks and other acc. as needed. for $250USD you can replace it every 2 years, transfer the custom parts to the new bike and still sell the old one for $35. Thieves know its a cheap bike and don’t bother it, joyriders main threat. My current bike was a $89 model, but I installed wide range gearing in addition to the other modifications. Going on 4 years 8500 miles, frame still good.

re your comment “They’re all built primarily for paved roads, but could handle a dirt track or two if need be.“ I bought a Surly Long Haul Trucker for a tour that included hundreds of kilometres of gravel road, and it was fabulous. A key factor was to use fairly beefy tires (1.75”). The setup on the Surly allowed getting down on the drop bars for long stretches against the wind, but enough cushioning in the tires (and frame) to make rough sections comfortable. I suspect this would be true of most of the bikes you mentioned, as long as they have room for wide tires. There have been a few loose dirt trails where a mountain bike would offer better control, but the Surly has been an ideal compromise for most of my rides.

After perhaps 25,000 km of touring we lashed out and bought Thorn Nomad each, with Rohloff. These are a little heavy, but the most comfortable and durable bikes imaginable…the Rolls Royce of touring. We can’t speak too highly of the Rohloff hubs.…just fantastic. But then, we travel slowly and thoughtfully.….you might say “savoring the experience”.…too old to do it anyother way! Check out Thorn’s website.

i would agree with the above. The Nomad is like a two wheeled tank, bit heavy, but can carry loads and tackle almost everything thrown at it. Slowly and thoughtfully ? ……… i couldn’t have put it better.

Hey, Tom! Since I have come back from my first bike tour to Europe I decided to buy Kona Sutra but question about what sixe should I choose is too complicated for me. I am 6 ft 2 inch. Thank you.

Hi Alex. The best thing to do by far is to test ride the different sizes. But if that isn’t an option, my brother is 6′2″ and he has the 59cm model, which fits him very well, if that’s of any help.

i have no money what small improvements could i make to my cannondale quick cx 4 2012 to make it a little better for touring

I would start by going on a tour with it and seeing if you run into any issues — depending on what you’re doing, it might be fine as-is!

Was all set to go for the Kona Sutra 2012 after much research and your review for a 1000km trip in SE Asia followed by a coast to coast of Oz, but just seen the Dawes Super Galaxy for £1125 at Spa Cycles. Almost the same price as the Kona. Would be interested on your thoughts on the Super Galaxy. I don’t plan on carrying much weight if that helps.

I’ve never ridden the Super Galaxy, so all I can say is going on the specs on the website. They look very similar, although the Super Galaxy has marginally better drivetrain components and better tyres. On the other hand, the Sutra has powerful disc brakes, bar-end shifters and a stronger/more widespread 9‑speed drivetrain, rather than the Dawes’ 10-speed which I consider a downgrade rather than an upgrade.

I’d toss a coin, or take them both for a ride and go with your gut!

Quick update — several stores are doing the 2012 Sutra at a discount now, including the two links in the article above…

Hey Tom, I went with the Kona Surtra based on my gut feeling and it felt right when I test rode it. Thanks for the link to cyclestore and your advice. I did a 3000 miles plus tour of SE Asia quickly followed by JOGLE on a mountain bike which was blast, but very much looking forward to journeying on a proper touring bike. Should make things less laborious hopefully. 

Top website!

Have to say I was a bit surprised at your mention of ‘stupidly expensive’ bikes then trying to claim that £1500 is a mid-range price. Anyway I have a Dawes Ultra Galaxy Ti and love it!!!

£1500 is a mid-range price 😉

My wife and I have had our Ridgeback Panorama’s for a couple of years now and are really pleased with them. We would, however, agree with Mark’s comment about the brake pads/blocks. Fortunately, easily rectified with a better brake block compound. We find that, when fully loaded, the bike comes into its own with regards to comfort, response and stability due, I think, to the Reynolds 725 tubing.

I bought a Panorama for touring in the Alps. Testing around Rutland hills I realised the brakes weren’t even good enough for here, let alone 25mile descents. I swapped them for Tekto mini “V” brakes available from Spa Cycles for £25. More than enough braking power now, it made a huge difference.

Hi Tom, I followed your adventure to the Arctic. Good to see you passing on your knowledge. Both my DH and I have Koga Randonneurs and I love mine. He preferred his Dawes Super Galaxy that he had upgraded with the Koga multiposition bars unfortunately , it was stolen and never recovered. They come complete with dynamo for lighting and I have a gizmo to charge the I phone. Good to find your site again. Brenda

Thanks for the article. A bit disappointing recumbents are not mentioned, as these are hands down the best bicycles for long distances. The first question should always be: Do I have a reason for not choosing a recumbent?

I can think of several — price, availability and familiarity are the first three. 

I do appreciate all the arguments for the benefit of recumbents, but this article was intended to highlight mainstream mid-range options, and unfortunately recumbents are still a long way from being part of that. I’d love to run an article about them, but not until I have some first-hand experience…

Great article Tom, I suspect most of us spend too much money on our bikes. Its refreshing to see someone write about the mid-rangers. Rather than the “you need this bike with Rohloff, Son, Magura, tubus” that you read on most sites..

Too true. I’ve got an interesting article in the pipeline which will go even further in the ‘budget’ direction. Watch this space…

I’ve just completed a tour on my new Vivente World Randonneur 

It’s probably at the upper end of the middle for touring bikes, if that makes any sense. But for me doing heavy highway touring it is ideal. Strong, stable. The dynamo on the front wheel is excellent at charging up all my electronics.

As you said, a bit pricey, but a lovely looking bike — thanks!

Is it possible to put a dynamo for charging up a GPS and iPhone on the front wheel of a Surly LHT? Does it reduce speed much?

Go for it. I have done it and could not be happier. The reduction in speed is minimal.

+1 for the Ridgeback. Like you say, everything is a compromise and in the Panorama’s case the manufacturer has skimped on the brake pads the most. Happily this is easily fixed. Another slight annoyance was caused by the shifters, which needed the addition of brake noodles to route the gear cables away from the handlebar bag I added — couldn’t quite justify 105 levers with integral cable routing for a tourer. Top bike, highly recommend it!

Novara safari is a great and inexpensive tourer sold at Rei Cheaper then any of these by a large margin with butterfly handle bars Novara randonee is more in line with what is here Khs tr 101 very complete even includes clipless pedals.

Thanks for this, Andrew. I had a look at the specs of these bikes. As you say, the Novara Randonnée is a closer fit for this list of mid-range tourers, though I would still be concerned about the rear rack’s strength and the 10-speed drivetrain. It’s also missing fenders. Otherwise it looks like a good bike at a good price. 

I’d probably put the Safari in the ‘budget’ category rather than the mid-range, due to it having a lot of entry-level components. While that’s fine for short tours and commuting, I’d be concerned about its long-term durability on a big tour, where the aim is to reduce the likelihood of repairs and replacements.

The KHS TR 101 looks like a very capable road tourer — I’d like to see some real life reviews.

Thanks again!

Also love your site and check my rss reader for your posts daily such a inspiration keep on riding man :).

I’ve done short tours on my Randonee for years, and love it. Hildy (my Randonee) climbs hills like a madwoman and can haul as much cargo as need be quite handily. The bike will even handle mild off-road. I’ve long since worn through the stock tires, and replaced them with Schwalbe Marathon tires. 

I’ve replaced the rear rack, but I’m told by many that the tock rear rack is quite sturdy. (I already owned a pair of Tubus racks from my previous bike when I bought the Randonee.) This fellow rode from Florida to Washington State on a Randonee, and used the stock rear rack. 

I have an older Randonee that has a 24-speed drivetrain, and I have to say that I share your concern about the newer, 30-speed drivetrain. It seems odd that they would put a 10-speed cassette on a touring bike. However, I am pleased to note that they have gotten rid of the old STI shifters and moved to the more dependable bar-end shifters. If I had the spare cash, I’d have those installed on Hildy. 

The Safari looks like a fun bike for short tours that contain off-road components, but I’d worry about those disc brakes on tour.

I put a huge vote in for the Surly. I can say I’ve treated mine like a mountain bike on previous tours and it’s never been a problem. Its just built to take any punishment I fell like dishing out.

I have had negative experiences with an older Kona Sutra; however, it was with the former placement of the bb7 brake caliper and subsequent rear rack configuration with a huge bolt and spacers. It’d just sort of snap whenever we were running late, battling poor weather, or having trouble finding camp. Now that they’ve moved the brake to the lower chain stay, that problem is gone and the rack is likely as bombproof as the frame.

Yeah, that’s probably what prevented it from being taken seriously for so long — I’ve read some similar comments about older models. I probably wouldn’t have included it here a few years ago, but I can attest to its vast improvement in the last couple of years. Had an interesting chat with Kona’s designers in Vancouver earlier this year — they decided to redesign it from the ground up, rather than try to beef up a road-bike design as they’d previously done.

I had a 2007 or 2008 Sutra and one of the rear rack eyelets broke off during the first week of my very first tour. I finished the ride with the rack held up with bunch of zip ties. I was very disappointed with that frame.

A good bargain i.m.o. would be the vsf Fahrradmanufaktur TX-800 XT with 30 gears. handmade in Germany, complete Shimano XT-Group, Tubus Cargo and Tara lowrider racks (made out of Steel tubing, Magura hdraulic rimbrakes, a XT hub dynamo and a pretty good, rigid wheelset including some Schwalbe Marathon 47–622 reflex tires. There are Shops in GB too, in € it would be 1499,-. Of course, a sturdy steelframe and-fork.

Or, my ride of choice, the Surly Troll (mine is a custom-setup by myself, but the complete bike gets some good reputation too), more like a Offroad-Utility-Bike. (can be driven with V‑Brakes, Disc-Brakes, a Rohloff Hub, a normal rear derailleur or even singlespeed). http://surlybikes.com/bikes/troll The parts on the complete one wasn´t what i had in mind so i bought the frame and fork for 380 €

Thanks for the comment and suggestions!

The Fahrradmanufaktur looks like good value for money, as you say. I wouldn’t take a 10-speed chainset far beyond Europe, though — very new tech and with every increment comes a narrower, weaker chain, with spares almost impossible to find outside high-end bike stores. My first expedition bike was built with a 8‑speed rear mech for exactly that reason. Even a 7‑speed would still be stronger and easier to find parts for in most of the world.

The Troll reminds me of the Explosif I built from the frame up for off-road touring. Looks absolutely great if you want to build your own and ride a lot of dirt! Shame only a few stores import them over here in the UK.

Tom, and All Others, 

Can I ask for your opinion on the new Fahrradmanufaktur bikes? I was about to purchase one, but I’m a bit unsure for two reasons: 1) It has hydraulic brakes. Do you think that would require more (complicated) maintenance? 2) It’s a women’s frame. I haven’t seen many female frames among long distance touring bikes. Is there a good reason for that?

This is the original TX-400: http://www.fahrradmanufaktur.de/katalog/expedition?product_id=668

And this is the one I’m eyeing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/371133699189?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Thank you, I would really appreciate your input on this.

Sofia, I’m a woman travelling around the world with the TX-800. The Magura hydraulic brakes don’t need any maintenance, just changing brake pads when needed (very easy, with a click). I have the male frame as I always had male frames in all my bikes and it’s what I’m used to. Another Spanish girl is also travelling around the world with the TX-400, male frame, and also happy with it. The advice the experts give is always the same, try to test both of them, male and female frame, and see how they feel.… Good luck!

Hi I bought the TX-400 last year and took it on 10 tour of Oman. It’s a really great bike! Very sturdy, and of course heavy but very easy to handle. My ony complaint was the company’s website. Everything is in German and they are very difficult to communicate with. Tried registering the bike using the website but couldn’t as it was in German. So a called them and emailed them a couple of times… again with no response. So my worry is that if on a longer trip I need to get spares, how could will their service be?

I guess it was many us who thought the same, as vsf fahrradmanufaktur have translated their webpage into English and Dutch… 

Regarding contact, our experience was totally different. We had a lot of doubts before buying the bikes, and although they kept telling us to contact the retailer, they replied most of them, even sending the bike documentacion translated into English, a list of spares,… Communication has always been in English.

As for their service, I had to use it twice in this trip, nothing serious, and it was very easy. I guess it helped that I was cycling through Germany at that time. They arranged for a shop in Leipzig to tight my cassette that had become lose, and they sent new pedals to another shop in Dresden as I wasn’t happy with the spinning of the ones that came with the bike. So far… so good. Hopefully I don’t need to contact them anymore!! 🙂

I’ve also got a TX800, it’s hugely strong and very well built, and will happily go anywhere a mountain bike will go, even when fully laden. It’s not the fastest bike but very reliable and robust. So far have only ridden the highlands of Scotland (including off-road touring) and a quick trip to Ypres plus 800 miles of commuting but the Zanskar valley beckons… 

To sum up this bike, think flat handlebars and fat tyres. Surly LHT, Dawes Galaxy, Koga typically have drop handlebars / skinny tyres, and will get you there quicker. The TX800 has a very upright position and quick (light) steering, ideal for circumnavigating rocky trails (like a Landover) but if you are the slow lad/lass at the back wanting to keep up then buy something skinnier.

This is a proper trekking bike, suited to carrying heavy loads away from tarmac. (And very reliable commuting, but not too quickly…)

Oh, and it comes in bright black and day-glo brown. It’s a German thing…

Believe it or not, an excelent touring bike is an old style Shwinn Varsity, 1982. With its steel frame, steel wheels, Suntour components, top-pull Diacompe breaks, narrow width drop handlebars, this bike is suprisenly stable and so well balanced you can ride no handed for as long as you like. Mine was a 25 inch frame, 27 inch tires. Tough long lasting and and inexpensive, I paid $175 used. My current touring bikes include crom-moly and aluminum, yet this steel Shwinn is probably my overall favourite

I have toured mainly in Europe always on Tarmac or the odd canal route my byclcle has been a Edinburgh Counrty traveler two years ago I opted for a Genesis day one steel frame bike with a Alfine hub I have since changed the handle bars to straights with bar ends this stopped the pain I developed between my shoulder blades after cycling 90 miles or more I also went to Thorns who fitted a Rolhoff 14 gear internal hub yes it was expensive however I must confess I would Never want to tour on a derailleur system again I appreciate the derailleur system can be easily repaired however the Rolhoff Hub has 14 distinct gears and it certainly does the job beautifully many of my friends who also tour and have cycled on both sets of gears now would not go back to a derailleur system my advice is you can cycle or your on just about any toe of byclcle Tom Allen has proved that but in life you get what you pay for I would personally recommend a steel fram touring bike good set of wheels Swarbe Marthon Plus tyres Bomb proof and a once in a lifetime investment purchase a Rolhoff the world then is your oyster and should you decide to later go for an expedition byclcle you can take your Rolhoff with you and transfer it to your new bike as it gets better with age

Hello we are currently cycling from Barcelona to Australia and using vsf tx400 fahrrad manufakture.the bike is great the only weak point do far are the tyres for us. We have it comes with schwalbe marathon mondiale which for us are not strong enough as we had to repair so many puncture. We think is a great bike and awesome value for money but just consider the tyres. ?

I bought my VSF 1,5 years ago from a dealer in NL, he says when buying from factory a lot of small adjustments needed to be done by him as the derailleur and that jizz wasnt properly adjusted, same i can imagine with the rear cog. I love how it is specd! Love the front dynamo light as it is bright as hell and the rear light stays on after stopping for a minute or two which is great regarding saftely. The frame (60cm for me) is not to stiff but very comfortable during my 10.000 K trip last year.. Also definitely a rear kickstand is a must, I have always had a centre stand but Rear kickstand has been amazing. I added an Andra Ryde rear rim that has proven to be bomb proof under load. I love the bike. But keep in mind that if you get rimbrakes or discbrakes it is impossiple to change after purchase as the frame is not compatible for both simultaniously.

I bought a Dawes Super Galaxy 2001 second hand in a fairly sorry state. I guess it was 30 years old then. I have ridden through Brittany on it 3 times and use it every day. I’m on my third set of wheels and it has had 2 complete drive train changes. I have been thinking about getting a new bike for 5 years but them I spend $100 on new bits and keep it going. Anyway, it was built to last. Don’t know if the new build quality is as good?

That’s the mark of a good frame!

I’ve picked up a 2013 Kona Sutra from bikes.com.au for $1200. The Dawes is now chained to the shed like the old dog out of Babe (sheep pig). I am loving the Sutra. I use it every day commuting and it is very comfortable. The saddle was hopeless but my old saddle suits the bike well. Anyway, thanks for the advice, think I got a bargain.

Sounds like an extremely good deal. You’re right about the saddle, but I can’t remember buying a single bike for which I didn’t replace it!

Hi Tom I have purchased a Genesis Day One with an Alfine 11 speed Hub To climb the Steeper hills I have changed from a 42 tooth to 38 front ring and an 18tooth on the rear Would this bike be suitable for European Touring can you advise please

Practically any bike is suitable for European touring, as long as it’s comfortable enough to ride all day. You’re never more than a few miles from a bike shop or train station if something goes wrong. I know people who’ve toured Europe on bikes from scrapheaps.

That is not budget.

…or VSF Fahrradmanufaktur TX-400 — either with Rohloff or not. https://www.fahrradmanufaktur.de/de/katalog/expedition-2017/tx-400-rohloff-speedhub-14-gang

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Cycle Travel Overload

Bikepacking & Adventure Cycling

13 Best Touring Bikes For Worldwide Travel 2024

Looking for top-tier traditional touring bikes? You’re in the right place. As the cycling industry evolves, particularly in the gravel and bikepacking realms, the landscape of adventure cycling has changed dramatically. Yet, traditional touring bikes, once the go-to for adventure, remain as relevant as ever for fully loaded, long-distance journeys.

What Are The Best Touring Bikes – Our Recommendations

Panorama forillon, koga worldtraveller.

• Tout Terrain Silkroad

Bombtrack Arise Tour

• Falken Jagd Hoplit +

Surly Disc Trucker

Decathlon riverside touring 900, vivente gibb, salsa marrakesh, genesis tour de fer, co-op cycles adv 1.1.

While gravel bikes gain popularity for their versatility, traditional touring bikes continue to be the definitive choice for extensive touring on paved roads and beyond, including off-road expeditions. Today’s variety of touring bikes, catering to a wide spectrum of adventures and terrains, can seem daunting.

This article aims to simplify your decision-making process by focusing on the type of adventures you’re planning. We’ve curated a diverse collection of modern, capable touring bikes suitable for everything from month-long trips to lightweight, credit card-style touring. Here, you’ll find a touring bike for every cyclist, regardless of your preferred style or destination.

Light Touring or Gravel Touring Bikes

Kona sutra se.

(A Classic All-Road Touring Bike with Modern Touches)

Price: $2,199 USD (about $3,446 AUD)

Bomb proof, rock solid, smooth and comfortable ride. with traditional touring bike components; Brooks Saddle, bar-end shifters and Deore groupset

Weight :  14kg (30.86 lbs)

Frame/Fork Material : Frame – Kona Cromoly Butted . Fork –  Kona Project Two Cromoly Disc Touring

Groupset & Drivetrain :  Shimano Deore, 26/36/48t crank and Shimano Deore 11-36t 10spd cassette

Gear Ratios :  19.90″ to 120.50″ (0.72 to 4.36 ratio)

Geometry (M) : Stack/Reach ratio – 1.56 chainstay 445mm – wheelbase 1,073mm – (steering) headtube angle 70.5 deg – trail 71mm – Fork offset/rake 50mm. Bottom bracket drop 72mm

Tires and Wheel Sizes (Tire Clearance) :  700c x 40mm With a max tire clearance 29×2.3″ (Check clearance with racks)

• Many mounting options
• Comfy, smooth and rock solid bike
• Clearance for 29×2.3″ tires
• Able to ride MTB sections
• Traditional bar-end shifters
• Rides well loaded or light
• A little sluggish when you need that extra speed for endurance bikepacking events
• Breaks have been known to freeze during winter
• Derailleur hanger is known to break slightly easier then others
• Have had issues with paint quality overtime

The Kona Sutra, my personal bike of choice, embodies the essence of a traditional touring bike while incorporating a 1x gravel drivetrain, a unique twist on the classic design. While the SE model maintains the frame of the Sutra LTD but stands out with its more versatile gear range. An especially notable feature is the stock Brooks saddle, a hallmark of comfort and quality.

On my own Kona Sutra LTD, I’ve managed to fit tires as large as 29×2.3″ without fenders, suggesting the potential for even broader options beyond the standard 700x40c Schwalbe Marathon Mondial tires that it usually sports.

The detailed specifications below are tailored to the touring bike variant of the Kona Sutra. However, if you’re intrigued by the prospect of a build more suited to off-road adventures, I highly recommend reading our review of the Kona Sutra LTD .

This bike is astonishingly versatile. I frequently use mine on challenging mountain bike trails , and it’s proven its worth time and again, effortlessly handling jumps and rugged terrain. Its performance as a commuter is equally impressive, proving itself capable of handling a diverse range of conditions.

In comparison to its peers, like the Trek 520 and Surly LHT, the Kona Sutra boasts superior specifications on paper. It features a full Deore groupset and includes bar-end shifters, which add a touch of traditional touring aesthetic.

A bombproof, fun machine that can take you anywhere. Offering a smooth and comfortable ride, it stands out as a rock-solid choice for both enthusiasts and serious cyclists alike.

(A true Swiss Army knife for on-the-go travel bike)

Price: $2,399 CAD (about $2,747 AUD)

Weight :  13.15 kg (29 lbs)

Frame/Fork Material : Frame – REYNOLDS 525  Steel Fork –  CUSTOM CR-MO 4130 Steel

Groupset & Drivetrain :  2×11 microSHIFT XLE, FSA – FSA OMEGA 2X MEGAEXO, 46/30T crank and MICROSHIFT XLE 11-42T cassette

Gear Ratios :  19.85″ to 111.81″ (0.71 to 4.18 ratio)

Geometry (M) : Stack/Reach ratio – 1.55 chainstay 455mm – wheelbase 1,050mm – (steering) headtube angle 71.8 deg – trail 67mm – Fork offset/rake 50mm. Bottom bracket drop 76mm

Tires and Wheel Sizes (Tire Clearance) :  700c x 44mm With a max tire clearance 700c x 50

The Forillon by Panorama Cycles is a steel all-road touring bike that combines a mid-component range with a budget-friendly price, making it an ideal choice for adventurers looking to explore the world. This bike is designed for efficient riding across various road types and maintains stability and ease of handling even when fully loaded with luggage.

At its core, the Forillon is a testament to strength and reliability, a theme that is evident in its choice of components. It features 36 spoke double-walled rims with reinforced eyelets, paired with robust 700x50mm tires, ensuring durability and stability on diverse terrains. The frame and fork of the Forillon are constructed from high-quality materials, including Reynolds 525 steel tubeset and 4130 steel, known for their resilience and long-lasting performance.

The Forillon stands out with its integrated kickstand plate and a plethora of mounting options, which include front and rear racks, fenders, and triple cage mounts on the fork and under the downtube. These features make it an excellent choice for riders who require a bike that can carry substantial gear on extended tours.

Other noteworthy aspects of the Forillon include its low bottom bracket, long chainstays, and a 2×11 drivetrain, all contributing to a comfortable and stable ride.

The bike also boasts mechanical BB7 brakes and bar-end shifters as part of its well-rounded build kit. Additionally, the frame and fork are treated with an anti-corrosion internal ED coating, enhancing the bike’s durability.

The Forillon is not just about functionality; it also has an aesthetic appeal. The frame graphics, inspired by topographic maps and created by Vancouver-based artists Pellvetica, add a unique touch to the bike’s design.

Offered in three sizes and weighing 29 pounds for the medium build, the Forillon is available at a retail price of $2,149 CAD (approximately $1,675 USD) through PanoramaCycles.com. This bike is a reliable, versatile, and stylish choice for those looking to embark on long-distance, all-road touring adventures around the globe.

(The Ultimate Expedition Touring Bike)

Price: Approx $6,000

Weight :  17.5 kg (38.6 lbs)

Frame/Fork Material : Full Aluminium Build

Groupset & Drivetrain :  Shimano Deore XT groupset or Rohloff drive belt

Geometry (M) : Stack/Reach ratio – 1.57 chainstay 477 mm – wheelbase 1,170 mm – (steering) headtube angle 69.5 deg – trail 82.4 mm – Fork offset/rake 50 mm. Bottom bracket drop 60 mm

Tires and Wheel Sizes (Tire Clearance) : Possibility to mount tires up to 72mm wide

• Can be packed up to 120 kg
• Super stiff for touring
• Built for durability & serviceability
• Includes mini-kick stand on the front rack and other accessories
• Life time warranty on the frame
• More standard touring equipment then most bikes
• Top of the line components
• Dynamo hub and lighting system as standard.
• Not the lightest touring bike on the block
• Quite expensive then most

The KOGA Worldtraveller series, recognized for its robust and versatile trekking bikes, is an ideal choice for all kinds of cycling trips. These bikes are designed to comfortably carry all your essentials, whether you’re gliding over smooth asphalt or tackling rugged gravel roads.

A notable aspect of the series is its unique alloy build. Despite the current popularity of steel touring bikes, the alloy construction of the Worldtraveller provides a solid and reliable alternative.

This bike remains stable and performs smoothly under a touring load, even when outfitted with sensible width tires. This combination of strength and smooth ride quality sets the Worldtraveller apart in the realm of long-distance touring bikes.

The series has been recently updated, with the new WorldTraveller model featuring a total load capacity of 180 kg. It can accommodate tires up to 72mm wide, enhancing its suitability for various terrains. The integrated rear carrier and new frame design contribute to improved rigidity and cycling performance.

For those interested in an electric version, the E-WorldTraveller includes the Bosch Smart System and a 750Wh battery. Customization is a key feature of the range, offered through the KOGA Signature programme.

The Worldtraveller range comprises several models:

• The standard WorldTraveller, a versatile trekking bike with numerous attachment points for luggage.
• The E-WorldTraveller, an electric variant with a Bosch motor and 750Wh battery.
• The E-WorldTraveller Suspension model, featuring a suspension fork with 100mm travel.
• The Worldtraveller Classic, a proven model known for its reliability.
• The Worldtraveller-S, offering choices in front forks, groupsets, and drive belts.

KOGA also offers extensive customization options through their Signature programme, allowing riders to tailor their bike to their preferences. Test rides are available to prospective buyers, showcasing the bike’s capabilities.

Tout Terrain Silkroad II 275

(A Steel Expedition Dream!)

Price: From €5,349 / $5,835 USD or $8,711 AUD

Weight :  From 14 kg (30.09 lbs)

Frame/Fork Material : Full Steel Build

Groupset & Drivetrain :  Rohloff drive belt

Geometry (M) : Stack/Reach ratio – 1.52 chainstay 455 mm – wheelbase 1,081 mm – (steering) headtube angle 70.5 deg – trail 73 mm – Fork offset/rake 47 mm. Bottom bracket drop 60 mm

Tires and Wheel Sizes (Tire Clearance) :  27.5″x2.0″ / With a max tire clearance 26″ x 2.0″ (50mm) with mudguard, 27.5″ x 2.0″ (50mm) with mudguard, 700C x 42 mm with mudguard

• Steel frame and oversized tubing create a robust structure
• Suitable for various terrains and heavy loads
• Standard with Rohloff hub or belt drive
• Customisable
• High-end components and features contribute to a higher price point
• Limited tire clearance
• Limited availability in certain regions

The Tout Terrain Silkroad is a high-end touring bike designed by the German company Tout Terrain. Known for their specialization in steel bikes for about 15 years, Tout Terrain’s Silkroad incorporates several innovative features and is built for durability and versatility.

The bike’s frame is made from steel tubes manufactured and welded in Taiwan, chosen for their ability to be easily repaired and modified. The Silkroad frames are among the first to pass rigorous safety testing, supporting a combined weight of rider, bike, and luggage up to 180kg/400lb. The bike uses oversized, thick-wall tubing to build a strong structure, which is beneficial for carrying front and rear luggage.

Key features include a steering limiter to prevent cable damage, an integrated steering lock to stabilize the bike when parked, and the option for either double-legged or rear-mounted kickstands. The Silkroad also boasts an integrated stainless steel rear rack designed to be indestructible and compatible with both regular panniers and the specially designed QL3 system panniers.

For power and lighting, the Silkroad uses 12mm thru-axles front and rear for maximum stiffness and alignment, and incorporates SL dynamo wiring in the fork for powering lights and USB chargers. The lighting system features Schmidt lights and a dynamo hub, and a Cinq Plug5 Plus USB charger integrated into the steerer tube.

The bike is equipped with a 14-speed Rohloff hub for the drive system, known for its reliability and efficiency, especially in challenging conditions. It also features a belt drive, preferred for its low maintenance requirements. Hydraulic disc brakes provide reliable stopping power, and the bike allows for the use of up to 203mm rotors.

The Silkroad offers different wheel size options, with 27.5″ being recommended due to the availability of high-quality tires. The bike is also fitted with Tout Terrain’s in-house “Black Label” components and a Selle Royal saddle from the Scientia range.

(Classic Touring Bike Aesthetics)

Price: $1,499 USD / $2,240 AUD (Estimates)

Weight :  14.7 kg (32.4 lbs)

Frame/Fork Material : Frame – 4130 double butted CrMo, heat-treated front triangle, TA sliding dropouts, rack/fender mounts . Fork –  4130 CrMo, TA, rack/fender mounts, internal hub dynamo cable routing

Groupset & Drivetrain :  BOMBTRACK AMES forged aluminium crank and MICROSHIFT CS-H103 10-speed, 11 – 42T cassette

Gear Ratios :  19.62″ to 115.53″ (0.71 to 4.18 ratio)

Geometry (M) : Stack/Reach ratio 1.51 – chainstay 435mm – wheelbase 1,045 mm – (steering) headtube angle 70.5 deg – trail 68mm – Fork offset/rake 55mm. Bottom bracket drop 70mm

Tires and Wheel Sizes (Tire Clearance) : With a max tire clearance of 700C x 40C / 700C x 35C with fender

• Includes dynamo, quality Tubus racks, and lighting for an affortable price
• Microshift bar-end shifters give you the seamless and classic touring bike feel and look
• Affortable price tag
• Only has 32 spokes on wheels
• The mudguards are know for being low quality and breaking
• The frame length is a little short, for that extra stability when under a load, shorter then most touring bikes.

Offering a blend of traditional touring design and modern components, all wrapped in an eye-catching metallic green color that is sure to turn heads.

At its core, the Arise Tour features a double-butted steel frameset known for its adaptability and resilience. Enhancing its touring capabilities are the Tubus touring racks and aluminum fenders, designed to handle all your storage needs while protecting you from the elements. Illumination for those early starts or late finishes is provided by a full lighting system from KT and Supernova, ensuring safety and visibility in all conditions.

The bike’s transmission system is built for reliability over long distances. It features Microshift’s ultra-reliable bar end shifters and a 10-speed clutch mechanism. The wide-range 11 – 42T cassette and a subcompact 46 / 30 chainset make for a versatile and efficient setup, ideal for tackling various terrains with ease.

When it comes to braking, the Arise Tour relies on TRP Spyre C mechanical calipers, coupled with a 180 mm rotor upfront. This setup offers controlled and effective braking, particularly important on those thrilling long descents.

Every component on the Arise Tour has been meticulously selected for its proven reliability and durability. The goal is to let you focus on the joy of riding, rather than worrying about bike maintenance.

FalkenJagd Hoplit +

(Pinion Titanium Touring Bike)

Price: €6,798 / $7,415 USD / $11,000 AUD

Weight :  17 kg (37.5 lbs)

Frame/Fork Material : Full Titanium Build

Groupset & Drivetrain :  Belt Drive

Tires and Wheel Sizes (Tire Clearance) :  WTB Trail Boss 27.5 x 2.35″ / Clearance for 650b x 3″ or 29er x 2.6″

• High quality components made of titanium and almost everything on the bike is tianium not just frame and fork
• Copes well on all surfaces
• Ultimate touring bike build!
• Very expensive

The Falkenjagd Hoplit PI Plus is a standout travel and expedition bike, designed for those who seek durability and reliability on long bike trips. Named after the elite warriors of antiquity, this bike lives up to its name with its robust build and high-quality components.

At the heart of the Hoplit PI Plus is its titanium frame, known for being extremely stable, scratch, and corrosion-resistant. The frame design, featuring a longer head tube and a slightly shorter top tube, facilitates a more upright sitting position, optimal for touring.

A key aspect of its design is the lower bottom bracket, which, by lowering the center of gravity, especially when carrying luggage, results in improved stability.

The bike’s rear triangle is notably sturdy, with chainstays designed for increased tire clearance and comfort. The rear dropouts are a technological marvel, allowing for longitudinally adjustable quick-release axles to optimize belt tension, and incorporating an integrated stand holder and a strap lock.

The Hoplit PI Plus is equipped with the Pinion P1.18 gear hub and a low-maintenance Gates CDX toothed belt, ensuring a smooth and reliable ride. It can accommodate either 28 or 27.5-inch wheels, offering flexibility depending on the rider’s preference for smooth running or damping.

This bike is an all-terrain champion, providing maximum comfort even under high payloads, thanks to its wide tires. It stands out for its high-quality titanium components, including the frame, fork, spacers, stem, handlebars, seatpost, luggage rack, and bottle cage.

Other features include a SON hub dynamo and lighting, a comfortable Brooks Cambium C17 saddle, Falkenjagd Titan Axios racks, Pitlock thru axles with theft protection, Magura MT7 4-piston disc brakes, and SKS Bluemels B65 mudguards.

The Hoplit PI Plus version extends its capabilities with its ability to take tire widths up to 3.0 inches (650B) and 2.6″ (29″). It boasts specially adapted chainstays and rear dropouts, which are adjustable in length for optimal belt tension. The bike’s design also ensures neatly laid cable pulls and flat mudguard and light mounts for a secure and aesthetic finish.

Trek 520 Disc

(The Longest-Running Touring Bike On The Market)

Price: $1,829.99 USD

Weight :  14.2 kg (31.31 lbs)

Frame/Fork Material : Steel frame / Alloy fork – Trek butted chromoly disc touring, 135×5 mm QR, Tire Clearance: 2″, Color: Diablo Red and Alloy disc touring fork, rack mounts, 100×5 mm ThruSkew.

Groupset & Drivetrain :  Shimano Alivio with 48/36/26T crankset and 9-speed 11-36T cassette.

Gear Ratios Inches :  19.79″ to 119.81″ (0.72 to 4.36 ratio)

Geometry (M) : Stack/Reach ratio – 1.49 chainstay 450mm – wheelbase 1,048mm – (steering) headtube angle 71 deg – trail 65mm – Fork offset/rake 52mm. Bottom bracket drop 70mm

Tires and Wheel Sizes (Tire Clearance) :  700x38c / With a max tire clearance 29 x 2″

• One of the most budget friendly options in the list
• Steel frame is rock solid and feels great
• Perfectly comfortable touring bike
• Long chainstays and a slack head-tube angle offer a stable, comfortable, semi-upright riding position, suitable for both touring and commuting.
• Trek’s history of producing the 520 model since 1983 adds to the trust in the brand and model.
• Frame is however a little on the heavier side
• Stock pedals suck (order replacements if you consider this bike)

The Trek 520 stands as a testament to durability and adventure in Trek’s lineup, holding the title of their longest-running model. This true touring bike is designed for those who yearn for long journeys, offering a perfect blend of stability and comfort through its touring-specific geometry.

With a sturdy steel frame paired with an aluminum fork, the Trek 520 balances strength with practicality, weighing in at a manageable 31.4 lbs / 14.2 kg. It’s equipped with both front and rear racks, ready to handle all the gear you might need for your adventures, making it an ideal choice for the avid tourer.

Renowned for its solid build and reliable performance, the Trek 520 has been field-tested and established as an industry standard. It’s a bike that’s not just ready for your next touring adventure but is also built to last, promising at least a decade of enjoyable riding experiences.

However, it’s important to note that this bike demands regular maintenance to remain in peak condition, particularly in keeping the drivetrain clean to avoid gear hopping. But this small trade-off is worth the exceptional experience it offers, especially considering its versatile gearing range that makes conquering hills feel effortless.

For those looking for even more versatility, the 520 Grand is also an option to consider. Excelling in bikepacking, trail riding, and handling a mix of gravel and pavement, it expands the horizons of where the Trek 520 can take you.

(A staple dirt tourer, just like its predecessor Long Haul Trucker)

Price: $ 1,749 USD or $2,600 AUD

Weight :  15.2 kg (33.5 lbs)

Frame/Fork Material : Frame – Surly Long Haul Trucker, 100% Surly 4130 CroMoly steel. Fork –  Surly Long Haul Trucker, 4130 CroMoly, lugged and brazed

Groupset & Drivetrain :  3 x 9 Alivio, Sora drivetrain. Shimano Alivio 48x36x26t crankset and Shimano Alivio, 11-34t, 9 speed cassette.

Gear Ratios :  19.42″ to 111.40″ (0.76 to 4.36 ratio)

Geometry (M) : Stack/Reach 1.58 ratio – chainstay 450mm – wheelbase 1,076mm – (steering) headtube angle 71 deg – trail 57mm – Fork offset/rake 45mm. Bottom bracket drop 50mm

Tires and Wheel Sizes (Tire Clearance) : 26″ x 46mm With a max tire clearance for 26” x 2.1” tires with or without fenders, or 700c x 47mm with or without fenders

• The steel frame is robust
• 20-30mm taller frames and a 30mm taller handlebar, offer a more comfortable riding position.
• 10 frame sizes, catering to a wide range of rider heights
• Has the heritage of the LHT
• Toe overlap issues
• Not ideal for singletrack or technical trails due to its long wheelbase and less agile handling. (If you want to go off-road)
• No longer has the Shimano 3X10 bar-end shifters
• Smaller frame sizes have an increased standover
• The reduced chainstay length effects its capability as a touring bike
• It now has 32 spokes instead of 36
• No kickstand frame mounts
• A downgrade in drivetrain to Shimano Alivio from the previous Shimano XT
• The price has also increased

The Surly Disc Trucker, known for its reliability and no-nonsense approach, is a drop-bar steel touring bike. A staple among touring enthusiasts, this bike is recognized for its ability to handle long, loaded rides comfortably, though it doesn’t necessarily stand out in terms of its specifications.

Having personally ridden the Long Haul Trucker for thousands of kilometers, I can attest to its suitability as an excellent introduction to bicycle touring.

The 2021 model of the Disc Trucker however, sees some significant updates, including a taller frame and handlebar, additional tyre clearance, user-friendly STI shifters, and more mounting points, along with internal fork dynamo wiring and TRP Spyre brakes.

However, it loses some features like the Shimano 3X10 gearing and bar-end shifters. The Disc Trucker is well-suited for road travel and light off-road conditions but may not be the best choice for more technical or agile riding needs.

(Best Value for Money Touring Bike You Can Buy!)

Price: £1,299.99 / $1,650 USD or $2,463 AUD

Weight :  17.1 kg or 37.7 lbs

Frame/Fork Material : triple-butted aluminium

Groupset & Drivetrain :  Shimano XT Trekking groupset – 26-36-48 triple chainring – (11-36) cassette

Gear Ratios :  18″ to 80″ (0.64 to 2.91 ratio)

Geometry (M) : Stack/Reach ratio – 1.47 chainstay 458 mm – wheelbase 1,096mm – (steering) headtube angle 71.5 deg – Bottom bracket drop 54 mm

Tires and Wheel Sizes (Tire Clearance) :  28 x 1.75″ tires / With a max tire clearance up to 29 x 2.4” (estimated)

• Can carry up to 170 kg
• 33 mounting points for various accessories and luggage
• Equipped with Shimano Deore XT and a Brooks B17 saddle (High quality components.)
• Integrated Dynamo Hub
• Lifetime Warranty on frame, suspension, stem, handlebars, and rack.
• Insane value – priced competitively with comprehensive features.
• Heavier at 17kg, which may affect maneuverability and speed.
• Basic Pedals and Grips may need upgrading
• USB charger effective only at higher speeds
• Potential issues with exposed wiring for lights
• Despite having a mount, a kickstand is not included
• Steering lock mechanism to prevent over-rotation may take getting used to

The Riverside Touring 900, by Decathlon, is a highly robust and versatile touring bicycle ideal for multi-day trips, commuting, and carrying heavy loads. A bombproof touring bike, along with the bikepacking friendly Touring 920. These bikes are ready for adventure and for unbeatable value. 

The 900’s key features include a strong and comfortable frame capable of carrying up to 170kg, internal cable routing, 33 mounting points for customization, and reliable Shimano Deore XT components. The bike is equipped with a Brooks B17 Imperial saddle, known for its comfort and durability, and TRP Spyke dual-piston mechanical disc brakes for reliable stopping power.

It also features a USB cycle-to-charge socket integrated into the stem for charging devices on the go, and robust aluminum mudguards. Before embarking on a major trip, it’s advisable to test the bike’s charger to ensure it meets your requirements. Consider whether you’ll need an extra power bank, as the charger requires extensive cycling to power your devices effectively. While it functions, its capacity is just sufficient for navigation purposes with the screen active.

However, it has a heavier frame at around 17kg. But if you don’t tour for speed that little extra weight shouldn’t bother you. And it comes with basic pedals and grips that might need upgrading for better comfort. But for the amount of touring bike you get you can’t beat it for value!

(Legendary Australian Touring / Expedition Bike)

Price: $6,600.00 AUD or $4,420 USD

Weight :  16.8kg (Estimated)

Frame/Fork Material : Full Steel Build – Double butted Cr-Mo touring frame and 1-1/8″ full Cr-Mo, threadless, mudguard, lowrider and electric cable mounts, through axle, steering stabiliser hook.

Groupset & Drivetrain :  Andel crankset – BCD 130mm, 5 arm, 165/170/175mm, with FSA QR-1 self-extracting crank bolts. With Rohloff speedhub 500/14, 36H, CC DB, black, external transfer box, OEM axle plate, quick release

Gear Ratios :  extra low gear ratios down to 15.9″ to 83.6″ with options in between or traditional 20.0″ to 105.2″

Geometry (M) : Chainstay 464 mm – wheelbase 1,087mm – (steering) headtube angle 71 deg – trail 67 mm – Bottom bracket drop 75 mm

Tires and Wheel Sizes:  Options for: 700C×40 (for road), 27.5 × 2.00 (for tracks), 27.5 × 2.80″ (all-rounders).

• Designed for minimal upkeep, ideal for long tours.
• Made from 4130 chromoly steel, offering stiffness and resilience, especially suitable for touring
• Superior mudguards, ergonomic handlebars, and intelligent dynamo light.
• Integrated rack and rear disc caliper, reducing the need for spacers and long bolts
• Comprehensive Tool and Spare Kit: Enhances self-sufficiency on long trips.
• One of the heavier touring bikes in this list
• Not the most beginner friendly bike – The comprehensive nature of the bike might be overwhelming for new cyclists.

The Vivente World Randonneur (VWR), particularly The Gibb model, stands as a pinnacle of touring and transportation bicycles in Australia. This bike, admired for its meticulous refinements over the years, now incorporates a series of desirable upgrades, culminating in a nearly perfect touring experience.

At its heart lies the Rohloff SpeedHub 500, a 14-speed hub gear known for its unparalleled range and reliability. While this hub adds to the cost and weight of the bike, its maintenance-free nature and durability make it a worthwhile investment for serious riders.

The bike’s 4130 chromoly steel frame ensures resilience and comfort, making it ideal for long rides. Its geometry is finely tuned for stability and ease of handling, enhancing the overall comfort during extended touring. The bike is also notable for its comprehensive tool and spare kit, ensuring riders are well-equipped for any situation.

The hydraulic disc brakes provide consistent stopping power, a crucial feature for safety and reliability. The dynamo-powered USB outlet is a thoughtful addition, allowing riders to charge devices on the go. While the bike may be somewhat daunting for beginners due to its complexity and the initial friction in new gears, its overall design is geared towards low maintenance and high performance.

(Entry Level Traditional Steel Touring Bike Design)

Price: USD $2,049 (About $3,211 AUD)

Weight :  12.25 kg (27 lbs)

Frame/Fork Material : Full Steel Build – Marrakesh Triple Butted CroMoly – BB Standard: BSA, 68mm, Threaded – Tire Clearance: 50c – Color: Gold

Groupset & Drivetrain :  Shimano Alivio – 11–36t, 9-speed cassette and 48/36/26t crank

Gear Ratios :  20″ to 121″ (0.72 to 4.36 ratio)

Geometry (55 cm) : Stack/Reach ratio – 1.55 chainstay 455 mm – wheelbase 1,055 mm – (steering) headtube angle 70.8 deg – trail 64 mm – Fork offset/rake 55 mm. Bottom bracket drop 77 mm

Tires and Wheel Sizes (Tire Clearance) :  Teravail Rampart 700c x 42 mm / With a max tire clearance 700c x 40mm tires with fenders and 29 x 2.0″ or Apparently you can run up to 27.5 x 2.6″ tires

• More then enough eyelets for storing gear
• Rohloff hub compatible drop out
• Very comfortable ride
• Traditional touring bikes design and aesthetics – bar-end shifters for example
• It comes with 42 mm tires but the minimum tire for fenders is 40 mm!
• Can only use the Salsa rear pannier rack due to how it attaches to the dropouts.
• The rear drop out swingplate is non-standard. A potential problem if it is damaged with limited access for parts
• The 2020 models in particular has paint chipping issues – even though it looks great
• Smaller frames may have limited space inside the frame for bikepacking frame bags and room for drink bottles
• Heel-striking is a potential issue on smaller frames

Made from a burly steel but heavy frame (not as heavy as some other bikes in this list) the Marrakesh offers a rock solid, stable and comfortable ride as you would expect in a touring bike.

With a dual capability for both off-road and on-road adventures. This bike is versatile enough for touring, commuting, or leisure riding, offering a comfortable experience across various terrains.

Despite its somewhat hefty build, the Marrakesh doesn’t compromise on maneuverability or performance. It comes equipped with front and rear racks, although fitting mudguards requires a slight reduction in tire width from the stock 42 mm tires to a maximum of 40mm. 

The bike’s solid construction is further complemented by a reliable Shimano Alivio groupset, Microshift bar-end traditional touring bike shifters, and TRP Spyre-C disc brakes. Additionally, its wheels and tires are tubeless-ready, enhancing its off-road capabilities.

However, a notable concern for potential owners, particularly those with smaller frame sizes, is the chainstay design. The positioning of the rack is forward by about 20-30mm compared to other models, which impacts the bike’s handling, making it more akin to a shorter gravel bike when loaded.

This setup also raises the possibility of heel strike, a drawback that could affect the bike’s overall appeal as a touring option.

(The Most Budget Friendly Option In This List)

Price From: $1,590 + USD

Weight :  15.6 kg (34.40 lbs)

Groupset & Drivetrain :  Shimano Tiagra

Geometry (M) : Stack/Reach ratio – 1.52 chainstay 455 mm – wheelbase 1,083mm – (steering) headtube angle 71 deg – trail 56 mm – Fork offset/rake 55 mm. Bottom bracket drop 75 mm

Tire Clearance:  700x35mm, with fenders, but the frame can accomodate 700x38mm without.

• 36 spoke wheels – strong for bicycle touring
• High quality Busch und Müller lights
• Well-balanced geometry ensures a stable yet responsive ride.
• Budget friendly option
• The Sunnywheel fenders might be a little narrow
• Limited tire clearance only up to 38 mm
• At 15.6kg, it might be considered heavy for some riders
• Not as capable off-road thanks to limited tire clearance

The UK-designed Genesis Tour de Fer 30, drawing inspiration from its sibling, the popular Croix de Fer, stands out as a remarkable blend of innovation and tradition in the world of touring bikes. This model is unique for its slightly longer build than most other touring bikes, providing an added level of stability and comfort for those extensive journeys.

But is it really a “Do-It-All Tourer?” With limited tire clearance, therefore limited off road capabilities it is better suited to traditional road only touring.

At the heart of the Tour de Fer 30 is the reliable Reynolds 725 steel frame, noted for its strength and relative lightness, making it a dependable companion for long-distance travels. The bike’s design is complemented by a chromoly steel fork with quick-release dropouts, further enhancing its durability and resilience.

A standout feature of this touring bike is its high-quality Busch und Müller lighting system, powered by a dynamo hub. These lights not only offer superior illumination for safer riding but also add a touch of sophistication to the bike’s overall design.

The shifting and drivetrain responsibilities are adeptly handled by Shimano’s Tiagra groupset, which includes a triple chainset offering a wide range of gears, ideal for tackling diverse terrains and steep inclines. The 10-speed cassette ensures low-maintenance, consistent performance, a crucial factor for long tours.

In terms of braking, the Tour de Fer 30 is equipped with TRP’s Spyre cable disc brakes, known for their consistent and sufficient stopping power. While they may not be as powerful as hydraulic brakes, their ease of maintenance, especially in remote locations, makes them a practical choice for touring.

The bike rides on robust Sun Ringlé Rhyno Lite rims and is fitted with the legendary Schwalbe Marathon tyres, renowned for their durability and puncture resistance. This combination ensures a smooth and reliable ride across various surfaces.

Finishing touches include Genesis branded components like a 27.2mm seatpost, a flared handlebar for comfortable handling, and a saddle designed for long rides. Practical features such as full-length mudguards, bottle cages, and spacious racks (including a Tubus Tara low-rider front rack and an AtranVelo Tour 365 rear rack) enhance its functionality for touring and commuting alike.

(The Most AFFORDABLE Touring Bike At the Time of Writing!)

Price: 1,699.00 NOW ONLY $1,358.93 USD

Weight :  13.61 kg (30 lbs)

Frame/Fork Material : Full Steel Build – Double-butted chromoly steel and Chromoly steel fork with 15mm thru-axle.

Groupset & Drivetrain :  Shimano Deore, 48/36/26T crank and 10 speed 11-34T cassette.

Gear Ratios :  21″ to 120″

Geometry (M) : Stack/Reach ratio – 1.54 chainstay 455 mm – wheelbase 1,054mm – (steering) headtube angle 70.5 deg

Tires and Wheel Sizes (Tire Clearance) :  Schwalbe Marathon with puncture protection 700 x 38mm / With a max tire clearance up to 50mm

• Reliable Shimano Deore and Deore LX parts for the drivetrain
• Double-butted chromoly steel frame provides stability and a smooth ride
• Can support up to 300 lbs. including rider and gear (140 kg)
• Comes with spare spokes
• Getting on the heavier side but mid range weight compared to other bikes in this list.
• Tight clearance for fenders
• You could question the practicality of hydraulic disc brakes for touring bikes

The Co-op Cycles ADV 1.1 emerges as a robust and reliable touring bike, well-suited for long-distance journeys and heavy-duty touring. A very suitable bike for tackling steep inclines with heavy loads, which is what you want in a touring bike.

Its double-butted chromoly steel frame ensures a stable and comfortable ride, even under heavy loads, and the bike can support up to 300 lbs. The combination of a Shimano Deore crankset and Deore LX rear derailleur, along with the Tektro HY/RD hydraulic disc brakes, underscores its focus on durability and performance.

The bike is particularly noted for its excellent performance on long tours, with users reporting successful journeys over thousands of kilometers. It is equipped with puncture-resistant Schwalbe Marathon tires and comes with custom front and rear racks for carrying essential gear. An ultra-low gear option is also available, making it easier to navigate steep terrains.

However, some riders have noted the bike’s weight as a potential drawback, particularly when compared to lighter adventure options. There are some concerns about the practicality and maintenance of the hydraulic disc brakes for touring purposes.

Comparing These Bikes

Below, I’ve compiled a table featuring key information for each bike, making it easier for you to compare and decide which one best suits your needs. I hope this helps!

Why You Should Trust Cycle Travel Overload’s Advice

Hey I’m Codey Orgill and have been exploring this world by bicycle for over 8 years now! I have a long history with touring bikes, first being introduced to the world of bicycle travel with a classic Novara Randonee touring bike, then a Surly Long Haul Trucker and I now ride the Kona Sutra Touring Bike .

I have ridden my bikes across 10+ countries so far and a lot of trips where I live here in Australia! Lover of bikes and so passionate about researching, riding, and writing 🙂 about adventure-focused bicycles. That’s why I started this blog ! Have helped over 1 million people find, compare, and decide on their dream adventure bike! Nothing means more to me than getting more people out into the world on two wheels!

What Makes A Good Touring Bike? Criteria For Choosing These Bikes

First I wanted to focus on mostly more traditional touring bikes in this list. As I plan to put together a updated guide for off-road touring bikes better suited for bikepacking type adventures.

Comfortable and Stable Geometry & Design: A top priority was the bike’s geometry. We looked for models with a long wheelbase, (average touring bike wheelbase: 1050 to 1070mm) and chainstay to ensure sufficient heel clearance during pedaling, (average touring bike chainstay: 445 to 470mm) and to accommodate rear panniers. The ideal geometry also contributes to a stable center of gravity, enhancing balance and creating a smoother ride. Additionally, a front center of (around 600 millimeters) is ideal for toe clearance and compatibility with front panniers, a typical setup for world-spanning adventures. For predictability and more stable steering a 60 to 70 mm trail is ideal!

Upright Riding Position : An upright riding position is crucial for comfort during long tours. We sought a stack-to-reach ratio of about 1.5 or higher to avoid a hunched-over posture, reducing back strain over extended periods.

Gear Ratio : The gear range was another vital factor. We looked for bikes with a broad spectrum of gears, especially low-end ratios for climbing with a heavy setup. Ideal bikes offer gearing as low as 18 inches for steep ascents and up to 120 inches for comfortable descents, accommodating various touring conditions. However if you are doing lighter touring and commuting, typically up to a 25 inch low gear is a pass, but not for fully load adventures.

Wheels and Components : Quality components are non-negotiable for durability and performance. We ensured that each bike had robust components unlikely to fail during extended tours. Wheel strength is vital, so we preferred bikes with a high spoke count, ideally 36 spokes to support the weight of a fully loaded touring setup. But some of the lighter touring bikes or not so good build quality bikes may have 32 spokes which isn’t ideal.

Weight Considerations : While weight is a factor, it’s less critical in touring bikes. Most selected bikes weigh around 13 to 15 kilograms or heavier, standard for this category. With added gear, this weight increases significantly, but our focus was more on reliability than lightness.

Other Considerations: The bike’s load capacity is a pivotal feature, with higher capacities being more advantageous. Ideally, a robust touring bike should be able to support a total weight ranging from 130 to 180 kg. Additionally, factors like frame stiffness and the configuration of the kickstand are also important considerations for these types of bikes.

What Are Touring Bikes? The Different Types of Touring Bikes

Touring bikes can be broadly categorised into four distinct types, each tailored to different touring needs and preferences. While there are even more nuances within these categories, this classification provides a solid foundation for understanding the diverse range of touring bikes available in the market.

Traditional or Classic Touring Bikes

Traditional or classic touring bikes are built to be tough and withstand the rigors of long, continuous cycling over days, months, or even years. Unlike road bikes, these are designed with a focus on durability and stability. Typically made from steel, these bikes feature an upright geometry, longer chainstays, and are often equipped with fenders and a rear rack for panniers. The wheels are usually 700c with a high spoke count (32 or 36-hole) to endure the demands of bike touring. While classic touring bikes traditionally had rim brakes, mechanical disc brakes are becoming more common in this category. Both flat and drop bars are seen on these bikes, which often have a vintage look, as their design emphasizes functionality and longevity over aesthetic changes.

When discussing traditional touring bikes, the Novara Randonee instantly springs to mind as the quintessential example. With its bar-end shifters, classic steel frame, and comfortable touring geometry, it embodies everything a touring bike should be. This bike holds a special place in my heart as my first introduction to the world of bicycle travel. I’m eternally grateful to both the bike and Eric, the generous legend who gifted it to me. Thanks, mate!

Expedition Touring Bikes

Expedition touring bikes are designed for epic, long-duration trips, such as around-the-world adventures. Made primarily from steel for robustness and ease of repair, these bikes typically feature 26-inch wheels and rim brakes. The choice of these components is strategic, as they make it easier to repair and replace parts, even in remote corners of the globe. These bikes are built for resilience and are capable of carrying all essentials for extended journeys, making them a top choice for serious long-term touring enthusiasts.

These bikes are quite similar to traditional touring bikes but offer even more adventure focused components and parts as standard like kick stands, Dynamo hubs and light setups, and trekking bars or flat swept back alt bars are often more common on these bikes for that extra comfort in the saddle. The Koga WorldTraveller is a perfect example of this category of bike.

Adventure Touring Bikes

Adventure touring bikes or off-road touring bikes are crafted for rougher terrains, such as loose dirt, single tracks, and off-road wilderness paths, making them ideal for exploring less-traveled roads. These bikes are essentially a blend of road and mountain bikes. They usually come with drop bars and either mechanical or hydraulic disc brakes, offering strong stopping power for diverse conditions. Adventure bikes can accommodate a variety of wheel sizes and have clearance for wider tires. Many models are also equipped to handle dropper posts, adding to their versatility for different types of terrain.

For example, the Tumbleweed Prospector is engineered for supreme reliability and performance in rugged terrains. Its design eschews trendy materials for durability, particularly excelling with the Rohloff SPEEDHUB, an internally geared drivetrain known for its resilience in diverse conditions, from deserts to snowy mountains. Unique features like the Phil Wood eccentric bottom bracket and custom cast dropouts, coupled with a design focused on maximum mud and tire clearance, make the Prospector a top choice for adventurous global expeditions.

Light touring or gravel touring bikes are similar to gravel bikes in that they offer the flexibility for both on-road and off-road use, but with the added functionality of eyelets for attaching racks. They are designed for carrying lighter loads and are more suited for shorter bike tours or bikepacking trips. Generally lighter in weight than traditional touring bikes, they provide a versatile and adaptable solution for cyclists who prefer a mix of on and off-road experiences. These bikes are often interchangeable with gravel bikes, focusing on a balance between lightness, flexibility, and durability.

In this category, the distinction between gravel and touring bikes becomes more nuanced, existing on a spectrum. Some gravel bikes are adeptly equipped for touring and off-road adventures , thanks to their tire clearance, touring-inspired geometry, and build quality. Others, however, are better suited for lightweight touring, with their capabilities leaning more towards smooth roads or light gravel paths due to certain limitations in design and gearing. This diversity means that while some models excel in rugged conditions, others are ideal for less demanding journeys. A good example of a lighter touring bike would be something like the Fuji Touring Disc or the Salsa Journeyer.

How To Choose A Touring Bike

When it comes to choosing the perfect touring bike, understanding your specific needs and priorities is key to narrowing down your options and making an informed buying decision. Every touring bike offers a unique combination of features, and what works for one cyclist might not suit another. By focusing on what is most important for your touring experience, you can filter through the plethora of choices and find a bike that aligns perfectly with your requirements.

1. Prioritize Your Touring Environment : Are you planning to ride mostly on smooth roads, rugged trails, or a combination of both? The terrain you expect to encounter is a primary factor in determining the type of touring bike you need. For instance, if off-road adventures are your main focus, a bike with sturdy tires and a durable frame, like an adventure touring bike, will serve you well. On the other hand, if you’re sticking to paved roads, a traditional touring bike with smoother tires would be more appropriate.

2. Comfort vs. Performance : Long-distance touring demands comfort, especially if you’re spending several hours a day on the bike. Consider bikes with a geometry that offers an upright riding position, reducing strain on your back and shoulders. However, if speed and performance are more important to you, a bike with a more aggressive geometry might be preferable.

3. Load Capacity and Accessories : Assess how much gear you need to carry. If you’re planning a self-supported tour with lots of luggage, look for a bike with a high load capacity, robust racks, and multiple mounting points. Conversely, if you prefer light touring with minimal gear, a bike with fewer rack options but a lighter frame might be better.

4. Maintenance and Durability : If you’re touring in remote areas, consider the ease of repair and maintenance of the bike. Bikes with simpler, more robust components are easier to fix on the road. The bike’s durability also plays a crucial role, especially in challenging conditions.

5. Budget Considerations : Set a realistic budget and stick to it. Higher-priced bikes usually offer better quality and more features, but there are also great mid-range and budget options that can meet your needs effectively.

Panniers for Touring Bikes

Much like the diverse range of touring bikes available, the market is also rich with various styles of panniers to suit different touring needs. Whether you’re setting off on an extensive cross-country adventure or planning a brief weekend escape, selecting the appropriate panniers can greatly elevate your experience. In this article, we delve into the world of panniers, offering insights into robust touring options, streamlined micro bikepacking choices, and minimalist solutions for those who favor a lighter setup.

What About Specific Touring Bike Handlebars and Saddles?

When embarking on bike touring or bikepacking, comfort is paramount, especially considering the main body contact points with your bike. A crucial aspect of this comfort is finding the right handlebars, which can greatly impact your experience over the many miles ahead. This article focuses on what to look for in touring handlebars and presents some of the best options available.

Choosing the right saddle for your bike touring or bikepacking adventure is a decision that can significantly affect your comfort on long rides. In our latest article, we address the essentials of bike saddle comfort and how to select a saddle that reduces discomfort for extended periods in the saddle.

A comfortable bike saddle is crucial, especially when you’re planning to spend days, or even months, pedaling across diverse landscapes. It’s not just about picking any saddle; it’s about finding the one that fits your unique body shape and riding style. We explore the factors that contribute to saddle comfort, from shape and size to materials and design.

Are Touring Bikes Good For Commuting?

Touring bikes are a great option for commuting due to their unique combination of durability, comfort, and carrying capacity.

Designed for long distances and varied terrains, these bikes are robust enough to withstand the daily wear and tear of urban travel, ensuring longevity.

he upright and relaxed geometry of touring bikes offers significant comfort, which is crucial for daily commutes, especially over longer distances.

This design effectively reduces strain on the back, neck, and shoulders. One of the key advantages of touring bikes for commuters is their ability to carry loads. Equipped with racks and multiple mounting points, they are ideal for transporting work essentials, groceries, or other personal items. Want to use a touring bike for commuting?

While touring bikes are versatile and perform well on different surfaces, making them suitable for various commuting routes, they are generally heavier than road bikes.

This might not be ideal for those who need to frequently carry their bike.

Additionally, they might not be as fast as road bikes, which could be a consideration for those with longer commutes seeking speed.

Moreover, the focus on durability and functionality often makes touring bikes more expensive than some basic commuter bikes.

Despite these considerations, touring bikes offer a reliable, comfortable, and practical solution for daily commuting, balancing efficiency and stability, especially when carrying loads.

Other Touring Bike Reads

• The Tips, 67 bike travellers wish they knew earlier – Beginner Bike Touring Advice
• Best Bike Touring and Bikepacking Handlebars – Everything You Need to Know
• Gravel Bike For Touring – 6 Best Gravel Bikes For Touring!
• 12 Best Front Bike Racks For Touring & Bikepacking
• Best Off-Road Adventure Touring Bikes 2024
• Best Flat Bar Touring Bikes & Expedition Bikes
• Best Touring Bike Kickstands & Everything You Need To Know

About The Author

Codey Orgill, a seasoned bicycle adventurer, has been exploring the world on two wheels for over 10 years. Since embarking on his initial cycling journey, Codey Orgill has traversed numerous countries, experiencing a series of epic adventures.

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The 10 Very Best Touring Bikes For 2023

As we roll into the new year, it’s time to think about the possibility of a 2023 bike tour and a new 2-wheeled companion who’s up for the challenge. As such, this article will showcase 10 of the best touring bikes on the market, including details on what they’re best for, important specifications and more.

Touring is all about the marathon, rather than the sprint, and it demands a bike that you can comfortably ride all day while carrying a load. With this in mind, the best touring bikes are happy rolling across a variety of terrain and capable of hauling heavy loads up hills. They’re also kitted out with standard yet reliable components, so that you can find spare parts easily while on the road, even if you’re in a remote town in the middle of nowhere.

Tip: The touring bikes listed below are ideal for what I would call ‘classic’ touring. I.e., they’re best suited for long-distance touring on mostly paved roads, but capable of riding on dirt and gravel paths etc when necessary.

How to choose the best touring bike for you

Before I show you the best touring bikes on the market, you’ll want to think about a few things:

• Will you be touring short-term or long-term?
• Is your route mostly on-road or off-road?
• Where in the world will you be touring?
• How much gear will you be carrying?
• What’s your budget?

The answers to these questions will ultimately define which touring bike is best for you . The very best touring bikes are expensive , so if the demands of your tour(s) aren’t going to test the bike too much, it’s really not necessary to buy the best. Unless you want to, of course!

If you’re new to touring and just want a bike that will take you comfortably on tarmac roads and bike paths, an entry-level bike would be fine for you. If you’re a veteran tourer looking to cycle across the world, you might want to invest in an expedition standard bike. Think about where your touring style sits between these two extremes.

The 10 best touring bikes in 2023

If you’re a frequent tourer looking for a great bike, this list will help you find your perfect companion. While you should expect to spend upwards of £1,000 on a new, fully-featured touring bike, rest assured that it should last a lifetime if well cared for.

Cube Touring Pro (£899)

A budget, hybrid-style touring bike.

Fully equipped with a rear rack, taillights and mudguards, the Cube Touring Pro is ready for adventure straight out of the box. It makes it into this best touring bikes list thanks to its exceptional price tag — a bike designed for touring that comes in at under £1000 is incredible value for money.

This bike is a hybrid at heart, rather than a true touring bike, but take it from me: hybrids can be great for touring. The Cube Touring Pro handles gravel paths with ease, thanks to its plush suspension fork and grippy Schwalbe Range Cruiser tyres. While it may be slower than a typical touring bike, it’ll keep you comfortable over those bumpier roads, happily taking you from A to B without breaking the bank.

Frame: Aluminium Wheel size: 700c Tyres: Schwalbe Range Cruiser, Active, 47-622 Brakes: Shimano BR-MT200 Hydraulic Disc Gearing: 48-36-26T chainset, 12-32T cassette Accessories: Rear rack, mudguards, taillights and kickstand

→ Check out the Cube Touring Pro on Cube. → There are also trapeze and electric bike versions of the Cube Touring Pro, ideal for cyclists with less mobility.

Ridgeback Expedition (£1,349)

A rugged, expedition-ready, flat bar option .

As the name would suggest, the Ridgeback Expedition is ideal for long-haul touring expeditions. The model was originally launched in 2014 and has been tweaked and perfected over the years, with the 2023 model the best version yet.

While still a touring bike at heart, the Expedition has many characteristics of a mountain bike, making it a great choice for those who need something a little more rugged. Its got a wide range of 27 gears, giving it the ability to climb steep hills with ease; chunky 26-inch Schwalbe Marathon tyres for excellent puncture resistance and off-road capability; cable disc brakes, and ergonomically-designed flat bars for added comfort and stability over rough terrain.

Frame: Steel Wheel size: 26-inch Tyres: Shwalbe Marathon GG 26 x 1.75 Brakes: Promax DSK-300 Mechanical Disc Gearing: 48-36-26T chainset, 11-36T cassette Accessories: Mudguards

→ Buy the Ridgeback Expedition 2023 directly from Ridgeback’s website .

Ridgeback Panorama (£1,599)

Built to haul heavy luggage over vast distances.

The Panorama is Ridgeback’s most expensive model in their touring bike range, describing itself as “ready for any adventure you have in mind”. A bold claim, if you ask me. But the wheels, dressed in Schwalbe Marathon tyres, are built for toughness, with Jalco’s DM25 rims that are designed for cross-country and trekking bikes.

The wide 11-34 cassette and triple chainset mean that the Panorama will happily climb hills while fully loaded, making it a real packhorse of a bicycle. Paired with a full Shimano drive and TRP Spyre disc brakes, you’ve got yourself a reliable bike capable of taking on the world.

Frame: Steel Wheel size: 700c Tyres: Shwalbe Marathon GG 700 x 35c Brakes: TRP Spyre Mechanical Disc Gearing: 48-36-26T chainset, 11-34T cassette Accessories: Rear rack, mudguards and 3 bottle cages

→ Buy the Ridgeback Panorama 2023 from Ridgeback’s website .

Trek 520 Disc (£1,650)

A tried and tested reliable packhorse.

The Trek 520 Disc touring bike is known to be a bit of a classic among cycle tourists, having been in Trek’s line-up for ages . It’s a steel packhorse, equipped with both rear and front racks, and a drive train that’s designed for hauling a heavy load. Using a mix of Shimano Sora and Alivio parts, its nine-speed cassette and triple chainset provide a wide range of 27 durable gears, making it ideal for touring in hilly countries.

The price tag might make you gulp, but the Trek 520 Disc is built to last and will be a reliable touring companion. As Trek themselves say, “you’ll leave this bike to someone in your will.”

Frame: Trek Butted Chromoly Wheel size: 700c Tyres: 700x38c Bontrager H1 Hard-case Ultimate Brakes: TRP Spyre Mechanical Disc Gearing: 48-36-26 chainset, 11–36 9-speed cassette Accessories: Front and rear rack

→ Buy the Trek 520 Disc directly from the Trek website .

Surly Disc Trucker ($2,049 / £1,700)

A much-loved touring bike capable of traversing the globe.

Many consider the Surly Disc Trucker to be the gold standard of touring bikes, as it has everything a cycle tourist would need to traverse the globe. And sure enough, time and testing have proved that this bike can handle a heavy-loaded tour better than a lot of its competitors.

It was originally built as a disc brake version of the legendary Surly Long Haul Trucker. However, the Disc Trucker has now completely replaced its older sibling, as Surly announced in 2021 that it would no longer be producing the Long Haul Trucker. Looks like the jury is in: disc brakes are the way forward!

It’s got tons of useful mounting points, ideal for adding racks, water bottle cages and more, although it doesn’t actually come with any accessories, so you’ll have to factor this into the cost.

Frame: Surly 4130 Cromoly steel Wheel size: 700c or 26-inch Tyres: 700x41c Surely ExtraTerrestrial Brakes: TRP Spyre C Mechanical Disc Gearing: 48-36-26t chainset, 11-34t 9-speed cassette Accessories: None

→ Check the Surly website for bike stores in your local area that stock their models.

Kona Sutra (£2,099)

Stylish and modern, yet very functional.

Kona have always been progressively-minded and like to break the mould when it comes to their bikes. In fact, the Sutra was one of the first touring bikes to start using disc brakes in the early 2010s. The Kona Sutra 2023 is also progressively-minded; a sporty, modern take on the ‘classic’ touring bike.

In my opinion, the Sutra is a gorgeous bike, thanks to its satin midnight frame and retro brown accents. It’s not just stylish though; it’s also incredibly functional, with hydraulic disk brakes and a reliable drivetrain. It even comes with a Brooks B17 saddle as standard, which die-hard Brooks fans will be pleased to hear.

Frame: Kona Butted Chromoly Wheel size: 700c Tyres: Schwalbe Marathon Mondial 700x40c Brakes: TRP HDC711C Mechanical / Hydraulic Disc Gearing: 11-36t 10-speed cassette Accessories: Front rack and mudguards

→ Buy the Kona Sutra 2023 from the Kona Bike Shop.

Genesis Tour de Fer 30 (£2,200)

Ready for epic adventures straight out of the box.

As Genesis themselves say, “the bike you’d turn to if you were to quit your job and embark on an impromptu pedal-powered world tour!” That’s the kind of spirit that’s welcome here.

The Tour de Fer 30 is, without a doubt, a reliable adventure machine. Genesis have dressed the strong Chromoly frame with durable, expedition-worthy components, such as a Shimano Tiagra 4700 3×10 drivetrain and TRP Spyre Disc Brakes. They’ve also included a dynamo hub for year-round, charge-free lighting. You can even add supplementary power banks or USB chargers.

This bike is ready for an epic tour straight out of the box. The only question is: where will you go?

Frame: Reynolds 725 Heat-Treated Chromoly Wheel size: 700c Tyres: 700x35c Schwalbe Marathon Brakes: TRP Spyre Mechanical Disc Gearing: 50-39-30 chainset, 11-34t 10-speed cassette Accessories: Mudguards, front and rear pannier racks, dynamo lighting, bottle cages.

→ Buy the Genesis Tour de Fer 30 directly from Genesis.

KOGA WorldTraveller ( DKK 20499 / £2,443)

Reassuringly expensive; an exceptionally high-quality touring bike designed to take on the world.

As the name would suggest, the KOGA WorldTraveller is equipped with everything you need to travel around the world by bike. It features rugged Schwalbe Marathon tyres, a super sturdy frame, a dynamo hub to power your lights, and a reliable, low-maintenance and low-geared Rohloff hub to get you up those hills while fully loaded. Reliable, sturdy and sporty, you might say this is the ultimate trekking companion.

The WorldTraveller is available in either a traditional diamond or a step-through frame, both of which are available in five sizes. This means your bike should be perfectly fitted to you, something which is absolutely essential when touring. With the KOGA Signature programme, you’re also able to completely customise the bike, with unlimited colour choices for the frame, 3 wheel choices, the option to add electric assistance, and lots more.

Frame: Aluminium Wheel size: 28-inch Tyres: Schwalbe Marathon Brakes: MT400 Hydraulic Disc Gearing: 14-speed Rohloff Hub, 11-34 cassette Accessories: Dynamo hub, front rack, rear rack, mudguards, lights, lock, bottle holders, water bottles, bicycle pump and kickstand.

→ Check out the KOGA WorldTraveller on KOGA.

Stanforth Conway Sports Tourer (£3,550)

A sporty touring bike that prioritises speed.

Fast. Agile. Comfortable. The Stanforth Conway is a touring bike built for speed. It was designed in collaboration with adventure cyclist Sean Conway, who went on to claim the record for cycling across Europe using this bike.

At well over £3000, this is a luxurious machine, but every Conway is built to order, with the frame’s geometry fine-tuned to each individual customer.

If you enjoy touring at pace and are happy to splurge, the Stanforth Conway may be the bike for you. It’ll carry panniers , but prefers lighter loads than some of the packhorse-style tourers in this list.

Frame: Reynolds 853 Steel Wheel size: 700c Tyres: Marathon Racer 35mm Brakes: TRP Spyre Mechanical Disc Gearing: 34-50 chainset, 11-34T 11-speed cassette Accessories: Racks and mudguards

→ Buy the Stanforth Conway directly from Stanforth. You’ll need to send across your measurements or arrange a fitting to buy.

Thorn Nomad Mk3 (£1,565+)

A bespoke, expedition-grade touring companion.

Based in Somerset, England, Thorn is a world-renowned producer of bespoke touring bikes.

The Nomad Mk3 is the newest in Thorn’s line-up and is their take on the “ultimate bombproof touring bike.” You can customise many components of your Nomad Mk3, enabling you to bring your dream touring companion to life. It can be built with flat bars or drop bars, with a derailleur or a Rohloff hub, with rim brakes or disc brakes, with 700c, 650b or 26-inch tyres — the choice is yours.

The steel frame is tough, the wheels are strong and the components are high-quality. It handles well in a variety of conditions, including canal towpaths, gravel tracks and forest paths. It can be used for day-to-day transport, or it can literally travel the world.

→ To buy a Thorn Nomad Mk3, you’ll have to contact Thorn to make a fitting appointment.

More great touring bikes

It was super hard narrowing this list down to just 10, and there are plenty more excellent bikes out there. If you’ve not found your ideal steed in my list above, here are a few more great touring bikes to consider:

• Salsa Marrakesh Alivio
• Condor Heritage Disc
• Temple Adventure Disc 3
• Tout Terrain Silk Road
• Cinelli Hobootleg
• Giant Toughroad SLR 1
• Decathlon Riverside Touring 520 – budget option!

About The Author

Lauren Pears is a freelance travel writer and blogger based in London. She writes about active adventure travel, aiming to encourage and inspire travellers to make the most of the great outdoors.

Thank you for reading! If you found this post useful, I’d be grateful if you would consider using the affiliate links below when planning your travels. I’ll make a small commission at no extra cost to you. This will help me to keep this blog running. Thanks for your support – Lauren. Hotels –  Booking.com Hostels –  Hostelworld Cheap flights –  Skyscanner Travel insurance –  World Nomads Outdoor gear –  Decathlon  /  GO Outdoors Cycling gear –  Chain Reaction Cycles Alternatively, you could buy me a coffee to say thanks!

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You have completely forgotten the best touring bikes – those from the Oxford Bike Works. URL: https://www.oxfordbikeworks.co.uk/

Thanks for the recommendation Alan!

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Best Touring Bikes in 2024 for Multi-Day Cycle Adventures

Bicycle touring is by far the best way to travel and experience the world on two wheels.

Touring bikes allows you to carry all of the necessities you need for a fulfilling life on the road.

Whether you go out of town on the weekends or looking for a comfortable bicycle for daily commutes to work – down here you’ll find a brief selection of different types of touring bikes.

• You may also like:   Best Bikepacking Bikes: the 14 Models We Recommend

Best Touring Bikes of 2024

1. yuba mundo lux .

Versatile cargo bike

MSRP: $2,499

•  26 x 2.15″ 
• 3×9-speed Shimano Altus 
• WTB SX-23 Rims

The steel-framed Yuba Mundo Lux is built in a cargo style that could be the perfect tourer as it is durable, comfortable, and capable of handling big loads. 

The drivetrain is a 3×9 speed Shimano Altus setup with an 11-36t cassette, and a Shimano Alivio 42x32x22t crankset. The bike has hydraulic disc brakes and huge 2.15″ Schwalbe Big Ben puncture-protection tires that provide grip and durability in all conditions.  

The Mundo Lux comes with an extra-long rear rack, fenders, LED lights, and a bell. Look no further when you want a bike that’s already got plenty of character for touring or everyday urban riding. 

Buy on REI.com

2. Surly Ghost Grappler 27

MSRP: $1,949

• Chromoly steel frame and fork
• MicroSHIFT Advent X 10-speed
• Tektro Mira MD-C400 mechanical disc brakes
• Teravail Ehline 27.5 x 2.5″

The Surly Ghost Grappler is a bicycle that could easily take you around the world (maybe even more than once) if you had the time to do it. With a touring bicycle like this, you can ride on any road and path that you come across and carve your own as well.

The Ghost Grappler gives you some incredible components for the money, so the price is well justified. You’ll get a typical gravel setup with stable geometry and a high-quality Chromoly steel frame.

You’ll be also a durable MicroSHIFT Advent X drivetrain with 10-speed gearing and Tektro mechanical disc brakes. Plenty to take on any gravel climb. In addition, you’ll have a TranzX YSP15 dropper for extra control on descents.

On downhills, control the amount of braking power you need with a set of mechanical disc brakes that stop the massive Teravail Ehline 2.5″ tires from rolling. 

Buy on JensonUSA.com

3. Ride1UP 700 Series

An electric touring & commuter bike

MSRP: $1,595

• Integrated rear rack
• 30-50mi range
• 750W rear hub
• 60Nm of torque

The 700-series by Ride1UP is not your typical touring bicycle as it is an e-bike. Depending on your purposed field of use, it can replace recreational cyclists’ needs to carry pannier bags comfortably and commute easily with a punch of electric assist which is available in both pedal-assist and throttle power.

Although this is not the bike to use for a trip around the world, it is definitely something to consider when it comes to shorter-distance travel. The reason why it is not as suitable for long-distance touring is the fork, which should be rigid, and a single-front chainring derailleur system.

Other than that, we’d love to see more mid-drive electric touring bikes available in the future. Sure, those bikes would cover a tight niché market, which might actually be quite unacceptable to the touring bike communities, but seeing someone cycling around the world with an e-bike would be something to look out for!

Buy from Ride1UP.com

4. Tommaso Sterrata

Best value touring road bike

MSRP: $1,025

• Alloy frame & carbon fiber fork
• Shimano Claris groupset
• Avid BB5 disc brakes
• 700x40c tires
• Weight: 25.4 lb

Tommaso is a company that is well-known for its valuable budget bicycles. They mainly specialize in road bikes, but with the gravel madness at its highest, Tommaso decided to give adventure cycling a try as well.

The result is one of the most beautiful and budget-conscious touring bicycles we have. Tommaso Sterrata is an aluminum travel bicycle with a carbon fork and 40 mm tires.

Italian Design And Top-Notch Engineering.  Tommaso Illimitate is one of the cheapest bicycles in this overview. Therefore, if the price is your only criterium, this is the obvious choice. However, it might be the obvious choice for some other reasons as well.

Obviously, thanks to the super-wide CST Tirent 40 mm tires, Tommaso Illimitate is capable of tackling all types of terrain. The Avid BB5 mechanical disc brakes help as well by providing lots of consistent braking power in all weather and road conditions.

The only setback  is the 11-32T cassette, which might be too small if you plan to ride in very hilly areas. However, the 2x crankset provides some balance by offering you a wider gear ratio.

Buy from TommasoCycling.com

5. Salsa Cutthroat

Salsa knows its way around bikepacking

MSRP: $3,599

Weighing in at 24 lbs, the Cutthroat GRX is Salsa’s vision of lightweight touring bikes. Equipped with Shimano GRX RX400 hydraulic disc brakes, Teravail Sparwood 29 x 2.2″ tires, and stable gravel bike geometry – there’s not too much to add or remove from the bike. It’s ready to roam out of the box.

Salsa Cycles know their way around materials and components, hence the reason the frame and fork are made of carbon. Carbon is the premium frame material, and there are multiple mounts for racks and/or water bottles.

When carrying a bunch of extra gear along, you really need to find the right gear and cadence to keep you motivated. Therefore Salsa has chosen an 11-speed Shimano GRX 600 drivetrain.

Shimano GRX 600 is a mid-range groupset suited for off-road cycling. The longevity of this setup is provided makes it perfect for bicycle touring. 

All-in-all, the Cutthroat is a great touring bike equipped with somewhat foolproof materials and components, making it a great deal to consider. These are components that you wouldn’t want to upgrade when getting a touring bike.

6. Marin – Nicasio+

MSRP: $1,179

Marin Nicasio is a brand-new bike coming off the production line of this California-based company. It’s among the more affordable models on this list, offering fantastic value for the money. If you can afford just one bike but you want to do both on-road and off-road traveling, then this Marin model is a safe choice.

Just like the previous bikes I’ve shown you in this review, it’s built around a lightweight and bump-absorbing steel frame . More precisely, it’s the Series 1 Double-Butted CrMo steel frame .

In terms of components, Marin Lombard 1 is very similar to other adventure bikes in this price range. However, it has some crucial differences that make it even more suitable for pulling lots of weight and covering great distances daily.

For example, it’s equipped with a 1×9 speed microSHIFT drivetrain that features a subcompact 42T crankset and an 11/46T cassette.

The microSHIFT groupset is a common sight on gravel bikes that cost around $900, so there are no big surprises there. It’s a reliable shifting system that’s easy and cheap to take care of.

This Marin also comes with Tektro Road Mechanical Disc brakes and Marin’s double-wall, tubeless compatible wheels that sport 650bx47mm WTB Horizon tires. They’re ideal for gravel rides, but they’re quite fast on tarmac and asphalt as well.

7. Rondo – Ruut ST1

MSRP: $2,999

Another mid-priced adventure bike with all the classical elements to expect from a decent touring / gravel bike. The Ruut ST1 by Rondo features a steel frame and carbon fork for best bump-absorption and front-end stiffness, mounts for fenders and racks, and a drop bar. There’s also the 1×11-speed SRAM Rival 1 drivetrain which is quite a decent choice at this price range.

Besides the numerous rack & fender mounts, the bike comes with 700x40c tires and Rival hydraulic disc brakes. The frame has clearance for 650bx2.1″ tires which is excellent for a touring bike.

Buy on Mikesbikes.com

8. ALL-CITY – Gorilla Monsoon Apex

MSRP: $2,599

The Gorilla Monsoon is an excellent-value touring/adventure bike. With an SRAM APEX 1×11 drivetrain, 612 select steel tubing Chromoly steel frame and fork, and Tektro MD-C550 mechanical disc brakes it has it all. The bike also has unique features like a TranzX dropper post and tubeless-ready rims and tires.

The wide WTB Riddler, 27.5×2.4” tires allow you to tackle almost any terrain you want and All-City packed the frame full of mounts to make this bike perfect for bicycle touring. 

9. NINER – RLT 2-Star 

Niner RLT 9 2-Star has an aluminum frame with an RDO carbon fork. Together, they keep the weight down and provide a responsive ride, which is great if your intention is to travel long distances.

Niner RLT 9 2-Star implores you to take it on an adventure over gravel and dirt road with every component fitted on it. The loudest of them is the SRAM Apex 1  groupset. This is SRAM’s gravel-specific groupset that’s built for the roughest of terrains. It’s incredibly reliable and shifts smoothly in dirt, dust, and sand.

This RLT 9 2-Star model also has a pair of Schwalbe G-One Allround TLE 40mm tires which offer tons of traction even when the bike is fully loaded. If you find yourself racing the dark to find a place to camp, you’ll be in good hands.

The brakes are also SRAM hydraulic discs, which means that they are optimized to provide the maximum amount of power and control in loose conditions, such as gravel or mud.

We’d recommend this bike to all travelers and adventurers out there who are looking for a foolproof bike touring choice to start their across-the-world travels.

10. PRIORITY – 600

Commuter / Touring bike with carbon belt drive

MSRP: $2,299

If you want to get a quality touring bicycle that comes with some handy accessories that you will find useful when you hit the road, you should check out Priority 600. This bike comes equipped with front and rear fenders as well as front and rear lights powered by a front dynamo hub.

Its frame and fork are made of lightweight aluminum which is the favorite material in the bicycle touring the world. It’s incredibly strong and unbelievably light. The fork is rigid and the whole bike is bejeweled with a plethora of eyelets to fit all of your accessories.

The next reason why this is a great bike touring choice is the drivetrain and the components. Namely, Priority 600 comes with a sealed Pinion gearbox and a carbon belt, which don’t require any maintenance.

Pinion simplifies shifting quite a bit. The tires are WTB Horizon 650B, tubeless-ready, so you don’t need to worry about punctures. Therefore, if you’re planning to combine both off and on-road routes on your adventure, this is a great choice.

Braking is done with Tektro hydraulic disc brakes, which are easy to adjust and maintain wherever you are. They offer excellent performance as well.

The conclusion is that you can’t go wrong with the Priority 600, no matter what kind of adventure you have in mind, as it’s a pretty much do-it-all companion.

Buy from PriorityBicycles.com

11. SALSA – Mukluk

MSRP: $4,199

• Lightweight carbon frame
• 26″x4.6″ tires
• Hydraulic disc brakes
• Shimano XT/SLX 12-speed drivetrain

The Mukluk adventure bicycle is optimized for long off-road rides on gravel and dirt roads that you would choose if you wanted to see the backcountry or the bush. All of the features listed above come together in this Salsa bike to create a bicycle that can navigate gravel roads, cobstones, and even mild singletracks.

This version of Salsa Mukluk comes with a premium Shimano XT/SLX drivetrain with a 10-51t cassette. That’s a very decent range that will allow you to actually ride your bike most of the time instead of pushing it.

The tires are massive compared to other adventure bikes 4.6″ wide. Coupled with 26″ wheels, they’ll ensure comfort and grip at all times. They’re tubeless-ready as well, so you can say goodbye to punctures. Finally, this bike comes with SRAM G2 RS hydraulic disc brakes which provide swift stopping power.

Buy on GravityCoalition.com

12. Surly – Bridge Club 

MSRP: $1,499

• Shimano Deore M5100 11-speed
• Surly Extraterrestrial 700x41mm
• Steel frame & fork
• Tektro HD-M275 hydraulic disc brakes

One of the most-coveted touring bikes online is the Surly Bridge Club. This model is obviously equipped with all the essentials for a long-distance bikepacking tour .

The quality of components is quite good for this price range so expect it to perform according to the stats. These include a Shimano Deore drivetrain, Tektro hydraulic disc brakes, Surly Extraterrestrial 41mm tires, and WTB ST i21 tubeless-ready rims.

The Chromoly steel used one this bike is extremely tough and comfortable to ride. As a bikepacking bike, the Bridge Club is loaded with mounts for racks, panniers, frame bags, or all of the above. This bike is great for recreational cyclists who want the best bang for their buck so don’t hesitate to look it up. 

Buy from Gravity Coalition

How to Choose a Touring Bike?

What is a touring bike.

Touring bicycle is essentially designed to accommodate multiple racks for pannier bags and water bottles. Travel longer distances, usually overnight, is a place where a touring bike thrives. They are different from bikepacking bikes in the way the gear is carried on the frame.

Must-have components

• 650b or 700c wheels
• Multiple eyelets for racks, panniers, and water bottles
• Drop-bar handlebar
• Relaxed fit
• Rigid frame
• Generally made of either aluminum or steel
• 2x or 3x front chainring for a wide variety of gears
• Mechanical disc brakes for easy maintenance on the road

With a bike that checks all of the boxes above, you can easily go on a serious cycling expedition, such as the Cairo to Cape Town cycle route , without giving it any second thoughts.

Commuter / Hybrid / Gravel – Which is best for touring?

Apparently, many cyclists confuse these three different types of bicycles because they have some things in common. Touring bikes are bicycles with a rigid fork and plenty of mounts to add the gear on, while:

The commuter bike is widely known as a bicycle that’s used for, yes you guessed it – for commuting. Other times are known as everyday around-town bikes.

Gravel vs. Cyclocross vs. Touring Bikes — Differences Explained

Hybrid bikes on the other hand are bicycles that are a mixture of two worlds – most of the time a mixture between a road and a mountain bike while they are equipped with front suspension and lack the comfort for all-day cycling trips.

Gravel bikes are often related to touring bikes due to their wide range of use, geometry, and build quality. Although a classic gravel bike features more performance-based geometry, components, and set-ups (with 1x chainring, etc)

What are the key features a touring bike should have?

Bicycles that are used to cycle around with all share pretty much the same characteristics. Most of the time, you see those bikes use 650b wheels (27.5″), while there are the occasional 26″ wheels still around.

The frames are made of either aluminum or steel for extended durability, and as a rule of thumb with a rigid fork and a 1x front chainring means lesser maintenance while limited gearing, especially when riding around with excessive baggage.

Is a carbon fork good for touring bikes?

When talking about forks, which take the first beating in most cases, there are three options to choose from. Check out the pros and cons for each material:

• Steel – Cheap, durable, good vibration qualities. Very common as steel forks on touring bikes can accommodate various accessories on the bike.

Beginner Tips for Handling a Carbon Fiber Bike

• Aluminum – Affordable, durable with plenty of eyelets to add racks and water bottles on the fork.
• Carbon forks are common for most road bikes at the sub-thousand-dollar mark, and nowadays some touring/commuter bikes come equipped with carbon forks as well. The reason why most carbon forks don’t have eyelets is that any direct vibration reduces against the fork reduces.

Touring Bike Wheels And Tires

26″ x 650b vs 700c

• 26″ = Commonly used tires that are easily found all around the world.
• 650b (27.5″) Wide and sturdy, great size for gravel & touring bikes. Allows getting the pressure low for harder passes.
• 700c = Best for fast commutes on paved roads

The most popular choice of wheels for touring bicycles are 26″. The reason is that they are stable, comfortable, and easy to find even in the least developed countries in the world. On 26″ inch wheels – instead of 32 spokes, touring bike wheels usually have 36 spokes which make them sturdier.

650b wheels are better for off-roading, while 700c boasts better speed on paved roads. You can fit chunkier tires on a 650b wheel for better, while the selection for 700c is not as wide.

Chain vs belt drivetrain

Touring means going out in the wild elements of nature for extended periods of time, so be prepared to keep the bike up to its best performance. In recent years, we’ve seen many globetrotters use a carbon belt drive instead of the classical sprocket & chain derailleur system.

A Guide to Belt Drive Bicycles – The Advantages and Disadvantages 

As belt drives don’t need any lubrication and have a life expectancy of up to 19,000 miles / 30,000km, it is quite logical to think of it as a perfect alternative.

What components should a touring bike have?

When it comes to the components on touring bicycles, less is always more. You should be looking for simplicity. The reason is that simple components are much easier to repair on the fly if something breaks down while you’re in the middle of nowhere. Still, you should be aiming for quality Shimano and SRAM parts that won’t give in that easily after thousands of miles of abuse.

What bike accessories do you need for touring?

Finally, a touring bicycle is of little use without its accessories. The indispensable ones include racks, water bottle cages, and bike bags. Some travelers also like having a dynamo which allows them to charge their batteries while riding and power bike lights.

How much do touring bikes weigh?

The weight does not play such a significant role when it comes to touring bicycles.

That’s why they are made from heavier materials such as steel and aluminum. Why spend thousands of dollars on lowering the weight of your bike by 500g when you’re going to undo that by carrying a gas canister. When you’re tugging 20-40 lbs of weight with you, a few pounds of weight up or down does not make a big difference.

What’s the difference between men’s and women’s touring bikes?

Although we haven’t listed any specific women’s touring bikes in this list, you can check out our Best Hybrid Bikes for Women to get a broader view of what to expect.

Important Factors to Consider

Touring Bike Frame

The most popular frame materials for touring bicycles are steel and aluminum. Steel is the strongest and the most comfortable material out there. Moreover, it is the easiest to repair in case of any problems. On the other hand, aluminum is not as strong and not as easy to repair, but it is significantly lighter.

Touring frames have longer chainstays and longer wheelbases. This makes them more stable and allows riders to fit them with bike bags and other accessories. They come with numerous eyelets that let you attach racks, bike bottles, and other equipment.

Even though touring bicycles look more like road bikes, they borrow gearing from mountain bikes. They often feature MTB groupsets and gear ranges which makes it easier for riders to climb steep hills under heavy loads. The most popular are 2x and 3x systems with 11-32T cassettes and higher.

Although, it’s been proved that the 1×12 gearing is among the most optimized options for longevity, price, and gearing.

However, you’ll see many belt-drive bicycles coming to the scene due to their internal gearing, and 19,000-mile belt life expectancy!

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About the Author

Sam Millers

5 thoughts on “ best touring bikes in 2024 for multi-day cycle adventures ”.

Starting my research for a bike to do several multi-hundred mile rail to trail vacations

Good luck and have fun! I think this selection is a good place to start.

I did not see one bike that looked like it could handle riggers of touring, 40soke hubs/front rack with mounts, any idiot that tours with too much weight on the front wheels are asking for trouble front rack is a great area for bag lower packs book stove and fuel handle n=bar bag passport/ money and maps and music easily detached/ backpacks clothing tent/ pad/ food for 7days ( big issue water) make sure that everything comes off easy /Been robbed a few times in three different countries/lighting and roll-up solar panel/ something that can be used while riding on the back rack / You would be amazed at what you can get by with less is always better/ cloth hanging on the bike to dry works. and that beer at night sure hits the spot. I use to live on a bike / for months at a time.

What would u recommend for extended touring then? I don’t know

Again many thanks. You have certainly given me much to consider. However, the Tektro CR720 are themselves cantilever brakes too. So I wonder why you have suggested these as a possible alternative to my present Tektro Oryx cantilever brakes on my Ridgeback? They look very similar. I do appreciate your comments on this subject

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Best touring bike 2023: Comfortable and capable tourers for long-haul adventures

• Paddy Maddison

Take your two-wheeled expeditions further with our pick of the finest touring bikes available to buy right now

The best touring bikes are designed to cover long distances with heavy loads. They’re built for tackling multi-day (or even multi-week… or month) adventures, where flat-out speed is less important than all-day comfort and the ability to carry overnight essentials such as a tent, a sleeping bag and portable stove. A proper tourer is the VW camper to a modern carbon-fibre racing bike’s Ferrari – solid, reliable and steady.

In essence, with a few tweaks and adjustments, any bike can be made capable of touring. However, purpose-built tourers have particular features that make them perfect for their intended use. These include multiple mounting points for fixing racks and panniers, plus a wide range of gearing, to make transporting heavy loads super easy; and a comfortable upright riding position.

In addition, touring bikes also tend to be designed for ease of maintenance. They’re commonly made from easy-to-repair steel rather than fancy carbon fibre. External cables are preferred over fiddly internal routing, too, which makes replacing broken cables hassle-free. Some models even feature belt-drive drivetrains, which require far less maintenance than a traditional metal chain.

So, if you’re thinking about setting out on your next big adventure on two wheels, our guide below features advice on the key features to consider when buying a touring bike, followed by a carefully chosen selection of the best touring bikes to buy in 2023.

The best touring bikes: At a glance

• Best all-round touring bike: Genesis Tour De Fer 30 | £2,199
• Best value touring bike: Ridgeback Voyage | £1,350
• Best mid-range touring bike: Kona Sutra | £2,099

How to choose the best touring bike for you

What gearing should a touring bike have.

Most drop-bar bikes are built to go fast. This means that they tend to prioritise high gears for maintaining high speeds on flat or rolling terrain. Touring bikes often find themselves climbing steep hills with heavy loads, so the focus of gearing has to shift from all-out speed to ease of pedalling in all situations. For this reason, touring bikes often feature a very wide spread of gears.

Traditional touring bikes achieve this by using a 3x crankset with three different-sized chainrings. This adds weight, but it also allows for very low climbing gears, without sacrificing the high gears necessary to get up to a decent speed on level ground or descents.

If you’re a real touring purist, you’ll probably want to opt for bar-end shifters over modern “brifters”. This is partly because they’re easier to fix in the case of a mechanical failure and partly because, well, it’s traditional.

How wide should touring bike tyres be?

Tyre clearance is important to consider when shopping for a touring bike. Generally speaking, touring bikes are intended to be ridden on mostly paved surfaces, with the odd gravel section or bridleway thrown in here and there. This means they need tyres that are relatively fast rolling on smooth surfaces, but with sufficient volume and tread to protect them from punctures and to provide additional grip on rougher terrain. Plus, the wider a tyre, the more comfortable the ride – particularly when carrying lots of extra weight.

Tyres measuring 32mm and upwards are generally best for touring bikes. However, if you’re planning to spend large chunks of time off road, you’ll want to make sure your chosen bike is capable of handling even wider. Some adventure touring bikes go as far as to leave clearance for actual mountain bike tyres.

READ NEXT: The best gravel bikes to buy

Do I need mounts on my touring bike?

The short answer is, yes. If you’re planning to embark on multi-day trips, you’ll want a bike that’s capable of carrying a load, and the most efficient way to do so is by mounting racks and panniers on the frame.

Sure, there are all sorts of “bikepacking” bags available that strap straight onto the frame using velcro and buckles, but properly mounted luggage will always be more secure and less prone to swinging around while you’re riding.

READ NEXT: The best hybrid bikes to buy

Are disc brakes necessary on a touring bike?

Disc brakes offer superior modulation and stopping power when compared to standard rim brakes. They also perform better in poor weather conditions. The downside is that a hydraulic caliper and hose system is trickier to maintain, making it less appealing to those who are likely to be out in the wilderness for days on end with no access to mechanical support.

Rim brakes are far easier to maintain, with parts that are simpler to replace in the event a problem occurs. Or, you could opt for the best of both worlds and choose a bike with mechanical disc brakes, which are more effective in wet weather, with all the ease of maintenance that comes with a classic rim brake.

READ NEXT: The best adventure bikes to buy

The best touring bikes you can buy in 2023

1. genesis tour de fer 30: best all-round touring bike.

From British bike brand Genesis, this feature-packed steel workhorse is one of the best stock touring bikes available right out of the shop. It’s a classic tourer built around a Reynolds 725 frame, fitted with a full set of cargo racks and full-length mudguards. It also comes complete with three bottle cages and a handful of spare spokes to keep you up and running on even the longest of adventures.

Shifting is taken care of by a Shimano Tiagra 3x 10-speed setup, with Spyre cable-actuated disc brakes and a Shimano dynamo hub to keep the road illuminated at night without the need to charge up or carry spare batteries. And the whole thing rolls on a set of cushy large-volume Schwalbe Marathon tyres to make the journey as comfortable as possible, whatever the terrain.

Key specs – Frame material: Steel; Groupset: Shimano Tiagra; Brakes: Mechanical disc; Tyre clearance: 38mm max

Check price at Edinburgh Bicycle Cooperative

2. Ridgeback Voyage: Best value touring bike

Classic tourer looks and performance for less than a grand and a half? In this financial climate, that isn’t a deal to be sniffed at, and this stripped-back budget offering from Ridgeback is exactly that. It’s the sort of bike you can load up and ride hard without worrying about scuffing fancy paintwork or damaging expensive components – which, if you ask us, is exactly what a tourer should be.

The frame is made from Reynolds 520 steel tubing, which is strong, cheap and easy to repair in the event of any damage. It has a mixed-series Shimano drivetrain with a 3x crankset and an 11-34 cassette, which will make light work of carrying heavy loads over long distances, even when there are hills involved. If you’re thinking of jacking it all in, buying the cheapest (but still highly capable) touring bike you can find and spending whatever’s left on your travels, then this excellent little machine will be right up your street.

Key specs – Frame material: Steel; Groupset: Shimano Sora mix; Brakes: Mechanical disc; Tyre clearance: 35mm max

Check price at Freewheel

3. Kona Sutra: Best mid-range touring bike

The Kona Sutra has long been one of the go-to options for cyclists looking for a hardy touring bike that can chew up and spit out anything the open road throws its way. It’s built to take a hammering and all accompanying componentry has been spec’d accordingly, including the Tubus Tara Big Apple front rack and genuine Brooks saddle, which are both included right out of the box.

The Sutra is built from the brand’s own chromoly steel tubing, which has been put together for a relaxed and comfortable riding position. It has mechanical disc brakes and externally routed cables to ensure maintenance is fuss-free – and, although it only has two chainrings, the 11-36 cassette offers plenty of low gears for spinning up those steep, leg-sapping climbs.

Key specs – Frame material: Steel; Groupset: Shimano Deore/GRX mix; Brakes: Mechanical disc; Tyre clearance: 40mm max

Check price at Kona

4. Surly Disc Trucker: Best no-frills touring bike

American bike brand Surly is known for its tough-as-nails adventure bikes that are purpose-built to take a pounding in the most demanding of settings. This tank of a tourer is no exception, boasting a sturdy steel frame, beefy 41mm tyres, plus plenty of options for mounting cargo racks, panniers, bottle cages and mudguards.

The drivetrain is decidedly unglamorous, comprising a mixture of Shimano Sora and Alivio components. But it’s utilitarian, hardwearing and features a 3x crankset to make the uphills as pain-free as possible. Braking is taken care of by a set of Spyre mechanical disc brakes for all-weather performance and easy maintenance, and there’s routing through the fork for a dynamo hub if you decide to run one at a later stage.

Key specs – Frame material: Steel; Groupset: Shimano Sora/Alivio mix; Brakes: Mechanical disc; Tyre clearance: 45mm max

Check price at Triton Cycles

5. Stanforth Skyelander: Best UK-made touring bike

Touring purists could do a lot worse than this beautiful British-made adventure machine from Stanforth. It’s as traditional as they come, with its comfortable upright position, lugged Reynolds steel frame, sturdy Brooks saddle and bar tape, and practical 3x gearing configuration. It’s the sort of bike that would be perfect for tackling anything from a classic British tour such as Land’s End to John O’Groats, to a round-the-world trip.

The best part is that the build is fully customisable. The price includes custom sizing of the frame to tailor the fit to your exact measurements, which you can either provide yourself or visit the showroom for a professional bike fit at no additional cost. There are also various upgrade options available, such as switching the frame from a Reynolds 631 to a Reynolds 853. The mechanics of the bike are designed for easy maintenance on the go, with cable-operated V brakes, bar-end shifters, and externally routed cables to keep things nice and simple.

Key specs – Frame material: Steel; Groupset: Shimano XT/Deore mix; Brakes: Rim; Tyre clearance: 35mm max, but can be built to accommodate larger on request

Check price at Stanforth Cycles

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The 100 Most Popular Touring Bicycles

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The Touring Bicycle Buyer’s Guide

A touring bicycle is a bicycle designed specifically for bicycle touring (also referred to as “cycle touring, bike touring, bike travel, bicycle travel, adventure cycling and bike-packing”) – the act of riding a bicycle for days, weeks, months, or even years on end as you travel across entire cities, states, and countries under your own power (without the assistance of a motor).

There are hundreds of different touring bicycles available to you. There are touring bicycles made for short day rides near your home; touring bicycles for fast, speedy and lightweight club-style cycling adventures; and touring bicycles made to carry you and your gear all the way around the world. No two touring bicycles are the same!

The Best Touring Bicycles in the World

This article contains a list of 100 of the world’s most popular touring bicycles, along with a photo and a short product description of that bike (usually from the manufacturer). But be warned – each of these touring bicycles has been designed for a specific purpose. While the bikes on this page may look similar to the untrained eye, there are a number of minute details that make each bicycle better equipped for a certain type of bicycle touring.

For example: Did you know that there are three main types of bicycle tours with more than a dozen different sub-types under that? For each of those various types of bicycle tours, there is a corresponding type of touring bicycles.

For example, each touring bicycle on this page can be placed inside one or more of the following five categories:

• Sport Touring
• Light Touring
• Road Touring
• Off-Road Touring

This means that a bicycle designed for short local day trips should probably not be used for a long-distance bicycle tour across an entire country or all the way around the world. And a bicycle made for off-road riding won’t last long if used alongside bicycles designed with fast, speedy sport touring in mind.

This is why it’s so important that you understand not only the different types of bicycle tours, but also the different types of touring bicycles and what they have been designed for, before you go out and purchase a touring bicycle for yourself. More details on this can be found inside The Essential Guide To Touring Bicycles .

Touring Bicycles – What You Need To Know

Sadly, most local bike shop owners don’t know much (or anything) about bicycle touring. Because bicycle touring is such a small niche within the cycling industry, local bike shops rarely ever focus any of their time, energy, or money on this type of cycling and almost never have touring bicycles of any kind on hand at their stories. If you can find a local bike shop with someone working there that actually knows something about bicycle touring, you should consider yourself very lucky!

Unfortunately, many of the people who go into a local bike shop looking for a touring bicycle come out having been sold a bicycle that isn’t really designed for bicycle touring at all. The result of this is not only an investment in a product that won’t suit your needs, but could result in damage to your bicycle, your belongings and your body (because an ill-fitting or improperly designed bicycle could break apart during a bicycle tour (yes, this really happens… and it occurs more often than you might thing) or cause pain, discomfort and even long-lasting nerve damage to your body when used on a multi-day bicycle tour).

So, go ahead and check out the impressive list of touring bicycles below, but before you go out and purchase a bike for yourself, make sure you understand what type of touring bike you are buying and how you wish to use it . Don’t make the mistake of buying the first bicycle your local bike shop owner suggests. The bicycle you buy is going to be the biggest and most important investment you make… so make sure you make the right decision!

Bianchi Volpe

The Bianchi Volpe features a smooth riding steel frame and fork and a variety of good components from top manufactures so as to deliver a great affordable bike that can do anything from commuting to hard road rides.

Brodie Elan

Pacific Coast Highway 101, Lake Garda en-route to Lake Como, the Cabot Trail or the Tour D’Afrique. Just climb aboard and pedal where your heart leads you. With classic features which are imperative in Brodie’s first ever touring bicycle, you’ll be so happy that your first touring bike could easily be your last!

Brodie Rombulus

Shimano STi levers handle the shifting and braking duties, a triple chain ring lets you choose the rate of gait and a cromoly frame keeps the components flying in tight formation. Beautiful looks without the beastly price.

Bruce Gordon Cycles BLT-X

Designed for serious loaded touring, with a frame geometry that ensures a stable ride. Versatile 26″ geometry will accept standard road tires, as well as the normal 26″ off-road capable tires.

Cannondale Touring

Back in 1983, Cannondale made its very first frame: a touring bike. Since then, the touring bike has always been in its line. From the market in Kara-chi to the grocery in Kalispell, Cannondale touring bikes have been there, done that.

Co-Motion Americano

The Co-Motion Americano has established the standard for what a touring bike should be – an entirely new breed of bicycle that handles self-supported, transcontinental touring without even breaking a sweat. We’ve developed ideas from our unsurpassed tandem designs to increase touring load capacity and provide a level of rugged reliability unmatched by any other bicycle.

Co-Motion Nor’Wester Tour

If you’re not seeking the extreme capabilities of Co-Motion‘s Americano or Pangea bicycles, the Nor’Wester Tour is one of the finest touring bikes money can buy. The Nor’Wester Tour provides an incredibly stable ride and the kind of positioning you want when your goal is to cover more ground while taking in the scenery.

Co-Motion Pangea

An outstandingly rugged, 26” wheeled touring bicycle that is perfect for our shrinking world. The Pangea has all the features you need for touring in the most challenging of environments. Far from a mountain bike with a drop bar, the Pangea is designed with the stable, responsive touring geometry that has made Co-Motion an industry leader.

Cube Central

The Cube Central has been designed deliberately more sporty than the other models in Cube‘s Global Travel Series. The Central combines the technology of Cube‘s Global Travel Series, but with more athleticism.

The ambitious design of the Delhi makes for a perfect trekking bike. The bike has a long wheelbase, so you can ride in comfort—even with a large load.

Cube Kathmandu

Cube‘s Global Travel Series bicycles are distinguished by their high comfort and easy handling. Special emphasis is placed on the frame geometry, weight and maximum stiffness. This bike has extremely balanced handling and is capable of carrying heavy loads.

Cube Touring Pro

Long rides and short tours are what the Cube tour bikes were developed for. Adventures on two wheels, no matter if the weather is good or not. The especially developed ECG – Efficient Comfort Geometry delivers a comfortable riding position without sacrificing optimum power transfer.

Dahon Tournado

The all day, all weather, all roads, travel bike. The Tournado is a handmade, lugged steel touring bike that celebrates classical frame geometries and component designs. In true hand-made tradition, each frame is painstakingly welded and brazed from Tange Prestige tubes. The Tournado features a frame geometry designed for upright riding stability. The result is a superbly balanced, supple ride that will deliver mile after mile of smiles and still packs easily into a suitcase for your next adventure.

Dawes Cycles Galaxy

The Dawes Galaxy features another legendary tube set made from Reynolds 631. The forks use Reynolds 520 chromoly blades that make for a smooth but reliably strong ride for the longest journeys. Equipped with 27 speed Shimano Deore gears with bar end shifters, Trktro Oryx cantilever brakes, Tubus cargo carrier, WTB Dual Duty rims, Shimano hubs and Schwalbe tires. The Galaxy is a great touring bike.

Dawes Cycles Horizon

The Horizon features a reliably strong, yet light, Reynolds 520 chromoly frame and chromoly forks. The geometry is configured to give enhanced comfort even through those long days in the saddle. It is equipped with 24 speed Shimano Alivio gears, Tektro Oryx cantilever brakes, WTB Dual Duty double wall alloy rims, Shimano hubs and Schwalbe tires. Those long journeys are made more comfortable with the Selle Italia FLX saddle and chromo-plastic mudguards.

Dawes Cycles Karakum Gents

The KaraKum features a lightweight alloy frame and chromoly fork. Distinctive because of its butterfly handlebars it offers unrivaled comfort with multiple riding positions on those long tours. A roll call of quality components consist of Shimano Deore 27 speed gears, Shimano hubs, Shimano V-brakes, Scwalbe Silento II tyres and an ultra comfy Selle Italia FLX Gel saddle.

Dawes Cycles Sardar

Bikes really don‘t come much tougher than the Sardar bike, with its strong 26″ double wall rims, steel trekking fork and it‘s compact alloy expedition frame. The Sardar really does allow you to attack almost any terrain you choose whilst still allowing you to carry every necessity you desire.

Dawes Cycles Vantage

The Vantage is designed for the tourer on a budget who still wants the best value money can buy. With a 6061 alloy frame and Chromoly fork you’ll experience a quality ride and still be able to carry your kit on board. The Vantage is ready for anything with its Shimano 24 speed gears, Truvativ cranks, Schwalbe tyres, luggage rack and mudguards. An ideal starter bike for long jaunts.

Devinci Caribou

Sturdy frame. Triple curved seat stays that help reduce vibrations. The fork can be used to install both a rack and front disc brake. With its proven design, the Caribou is the great travelers‘ bicycle. The Caribou is designed and assembled in Canada.

Fuji Touring

The Fuji Touring is a full-fledged touring bicycle with a classic look and modern components – available at a super low price. An excellent introductory touring bicycle!

Giant CRX-1

Whether you ride for fitness or transportation, Giant‘s CRX-1 will get you where you are going. The Lightweight ALUXX frameset and wide-range gearing tame steep city inclines, while the quick handling reflexes and flat bar let you sling corners with precision. Tuned ride comfort meets road racer efficiency.

GT Peace Tour

GT’s renowned Peace platform, built for touring. If your idea of a perfect ride is cruising the countryside, panniers packed, and rack loaded down, this is your ride.

Jamis Aurora

The Jamis Aurora is arguably the last of the production-built, loaded touring bikes—unbeatably efficient at hauling you and your stuff, and the ultimate ride for big-distance commuters and cyclo-tourists. The bike‘s touring geometry combines a lanky wheelbase with stability-enhancing weight distribution.

Introduced in 2009, the KHS TR-101 has quickly become a big hit with the touring and trekking crowd because of its low price and touring features, such as front and rear fenders and braze-ons designed to support both front and rear racks.

Koga-Miyata Traveller

The Koga-Miyata Traveller is a popular touring bike with an aluminum frame. It is a complete, appealing bicycle for versatile use. The bicycle comes in both a mens and womens version and can be purchased in both aluminum and steel.

Koga-Miyata World Traveller

The 26″ touring bike for rough terrain; also ideal for mountainous or pathless terrain. The super stable aluminum frame is completely outfitted with Shimano Deore XT equipment, Tubus carriers, double eyeletted rims and battery lighting.

Feel good all over the world and then some with Kona’s wondrously refined touring bike. This year the Sutra returns with new chainstay mounted disc brakes for easier fender fit and more fender options. We’ve also added lighter, disc specific stays and, ahem, fenders themselves (sorry for the delay). Take your pleasure seeking on the road, ride deep into new dimensions, and do it all on a bike specifically designed to take you there-and back again of course.

Kross Trans Line

The line of Trans trekking bikes from Kross were designed with the thought of long trips on paved roads in mind. Thanks to the geometry of the frame, a comfortable saddle, fenders and rear rack, the bike is perfect even in difficult conditions, whether you choose to travel near your home on go on a much longer expedition.

Kross Trans Pacific

The Trans Pacific was designed with the thought of long trips on paved roads in mind. Thanks to a comfortable frame geometry, fenders and rear rack, the bike is perfect if you choose to go on a real expedition far from home.

Louis Garneau LGS-GMT

Designed with disc brakes, front and rear fenders, braze-ons built for front and rear racks and all the comfort you would expect in a fully-loaded touring bicycle, you‘ll be lucky if you can find this bicycle on the market today. It’s no longer in production as far as we know.

Marinoni Turismo

The roads around the world are at your fingertips with Turismo! Robust and stable, its framework has been designed to support heavy loads while maximizing energy transfer, thus ensuring the rider reaches port as efficiently as possible!

Norco Cabot

The Norco Cabot is a touring bike built with a Reynolds 525 chromoly frame, 3 water bottle mounts, pump pegs, spoke holder, fender/rack mounts and IS disc tabs. Full Shimano 18-speed drive train with 105 rear derailleur. Sturdy wheels: Shimano LX trekking hubs, butted stainless spokes and Mavic A316 hole rims.

Norco Fraser

The Norco Fraser is a touring bicycle built on a double butted chromoly frame with 3 water bottle mounts and fender/rack mounts. Shimano 18-speed drive train with FSA Vero triple cranks.

Norco Qwest

A bicycle that may no longer be in production, the Norco Qwest is a bicycle designed with sport touring and trekking in mind. The butted Chromoly frame easily accepts both front and rear fenders and racks.

Novara Randonee

The Novara Randonee is a traditional touring bike sold by REI. It’s apopular, low cost touring bike model that’s great for beginners looking for their first touring bike.

Novara Safari

The ultimate adventure-touring cycle, the Novara Safari rides on – even when the pavement runs out! A popular touring bicycle sold at REI stores in the United States.

Weighing in at 27.6 lbs, the Opus Largo is a traditional touring bike built on a triple butted profiled CrMo frame with an Ora Touring aluminum raked fork. Front and rear rack compatible.

Opus Legato

Weighing in at 25.8 lbs, the Opus Legato is a lightweight touring bike built on a triple butted profiled 6061 aluminum frame with an Ora Touring aluminum raked fork. Front and rear rack compatible.

Patria Argos

The lightweight Argos is a fast and agile bike, but not only on smooth asphalt: it rolls on easy running 26″ tires and provides good grip even on trails. With a noble frame made of Columbus Zona tubing, the Argos has a geometry and seating position that allows you to go from long distance to sporty.

Patria Boston

The Boston combines the driving characteristics of a modern light trekking bike with the sporty elegance of the classic sports bike. Thanks to its high-quality components and the long-distance posture it is suitable for long-distance cycling and for everyday use alike.

Patria Helios

The Helios is a light and elegant sports bike. The framework architecture is of the highest quality. Even with all of its components, the weight is surprisingly low. The Helios shown here weighs under 13 kg (with lights, without pedals). The frame is stiff, but with just the right degree of long-distance comfort.

Patria Randonneur

The Randonneur drives like a racing machine – both in the narrow 28″ version and with the wider tires on the 26″ version. Two or three different race configurations can be chosen from.

Patria Ranger

The Ranger was named “Bicycle of the Year” in 1985, even before the term “trekking bike” was coined. In the meantime, over more than 20 years of continuous product development, the Ranger has evolved into an impeccably well-engineered trekking bike of premium quality parts.

Patria Sporttourer

The frame of the Sport Tourer is a pure racing frame. For light day trips, a rear rack can be mounted onto the rear.

Patria Terra

The Terra is designed as a 26″ touring bike with wide tires for those planning to travel with gear on rough roads. Its durable Chromoly frame is lugged and carefully soldered by hand, like all bikes from Patria.

Patria Trondheim

Absolute quality and stable driving is what you will find in the sporty bicycle. It is easy to maneuver, safe and comfortable, even under high loads and at high speeds. It is suitable for sporty drivers, but is great for cyclists traveling long distances with luggage as well.

Raleigh Sojourn

A modern touring bike with old-school charm, the Raleigh Sojourn features Reynold 520 Butted Chromo w/CNC Dropouts, Spoke Holders, Pump Peg, 4130 Chromo Cross w/Disc Mounts, Shimano Tiagra & Shimano Deore deraiulluers, Shimano FC-R453 Octalink 30/39/50t Cranks, Shimano Dura- Ace 9spd Bar End Shifters and Freedom Ryder 2.3 Trekking Double Wall Rims.

Ridgeback Panorama

If you are looking for a sensible steel touring bike, the Panorama might just be the bike you‘ve been looking for. The Ridgeback Panorama features Reynolds tubing, top of the line Shimano components and the kind of ride that long distance expedition types really enjoy.

Ridgeback Voyage

If you want comfort, then the Ridgeback Voyage is the bike that will provide all you need and more. It is responsive and fantastic to ride around the city or on the open roads.

Riese And Muller Delite Touring

The touring is optimized for low weight without compromising functionality. The 27-speed derailleur is sporty and very efficient. Other features include a high quality lighting system with steady light function and LED technology. Demanding everyday cyclists can find their own personal training partner in the Delite touring.

Riese And Muller Delite Traveller

The traveller’s special, super-rigid frame ensures a very stable ride. The 27-speed derailleur (Shimano Deore XT) and disc brakes are reliable and time-tested. The special expedition rack is connected via a linkage system to the rear swing-arm providing greater rigidity. There is no tour that it can’t handle.

Riese and Muller Intercontinental

The Intercontinental is a pro tourer designed and developed to withstand even the hardest of applications. If you intend to go on a world tour by bike, you’ll already be a step ahead with this premium, robust touring bike. The extremely tough frame has many interesting design details: a rigid rear rack integrated into the frame, and connected to the rear suspension system by a link system, over-sized tubing and long wheelbase geometry.

Roberts Cycles Clubman

The Clubman combines the best of tradition with modern technology. It’s a design aimed at the rider who rides regularly on the weekend and enjoys the odd cycling holiday. The Clubman is tough enough for long-distance tours, yet comfortable enough for regular commuting.

Roberts Cycles Cumbria

The Cumbria is the perfect combination of commuter bike and heavy-duty tourer. It’s built like a conventionally-styled touring bike, but uses 26″ wheels and has plenty of clearance for up to 26? x 1.75″ tires.

Roberts Cycles Roughstuff

While it looks like a mountain bike with skinny tires and dropped handlebars, the Roughstuff is designed firstly as an on-road/off-road tourer. Compared to a mountain bike, it has a lower bottom bracket height for greater stability and a taller head tube/handlebar height for increased riding comfort.

Roberts Cycles Transcontinental

Developed and refined over many years using feedback from serious cycle tourists who have traveled the far corners of the world, the Transcontinental is the classic “everything-but-the-kitchen-sink” tourer. A surprisingly light- weight mix of Columbus Nivacrom and Reynolds tubes are joined using the finest lugs and meticulous care to provide for a long lifetime of hard riding.

Rocky Mountain Sherpa 10

Touring is all about exploring and adventure and there’s no better bike to tour on than the Sherpa. From intelligent rack mounts, to gearing, to durable paint – every detail has been considered. A long-time staple in the Rocky Mountain lineup, Sherpa offers the durability and features that every long distance rider needs.

Rocky Mountain Sherpa 30

Touring is all about exploring and adventure and there’s no better bike to tour on than Sherpa. From intelligent rack mounts, to gearing, to durable paint – every detail has been considered. A long-time staple in the Rocky Mountain lineup, Sherpa offers the durability and features that every long distance rider needs.

Rodriguez Adventure

If you want room for fenders and big wide tires, mounts for rear and front racks, a bomb-proof frame and fork, mounts for 3 water bottles and a frame made in the U.S.A., what you are looking for might just be a Rodriguez Adventure. This is a comfortable, American made, steel, classic touring bike with modern day components and the old school conveniences, plus hand built wheels with a 3-year warranty.

Rodriguez Navigator

The Rodriguez Navigator is a Randonneur/Sport bike with clearance for fenders, a rear rack and wide tires. The Navigator is a comfortable, versatile bike that is perfect for commuting, day touring, or a weekend ride with your buddies.

Rodriguez Rainier

The Rodriguez Rainier is perfect for the Randonneur cyclist or the commuter who doesn’t need a front rack set up. Not really a touring bike, but a sport bike that accommodates full fenders and a rear rack.

Salsa Casseroll Double

Salsa‘s Casseroll Double is a relaxed road bike, perfect for everything from non-competitive road riding and commuting to credit card touring and charity rides. An extremely versatile frame set is what makes the Casseroll Double so… well, versatile.

Salsa Fargo

Crafted of Salsa Classico CroMoly, the Fargo is a bit of a cycling anomaly: a disc brake only, drop bar mountain bike designed for off-road tour- ing. Six (count ?em, six) water bottle cage mounts (on sizes 18 – 24″) help keep you hydrated on a long journey. The sloped top tube allows plenty of stand over clearance for those fully-loaded starts and stops.

The Salsa Vaya is a road adventure bike designed to take on any surface that someone might consider abroad‘. Crafted of Salsa Classico Cro-Moly, the Vaya is loaded with braze-on‘s for fenders, racks, and lowriders. This makes everything from wet weather commutes to full-on touring a breeze.

Santos Travel Master

Hailing from the Netherlands – where they know a thing or two about riding practical bikes long distances – the Santos Travel Master is a very impressive, well-rounded tourer.

Schwinn World Tour DLX

An inexpensive touring bike made for weekend travel.

Seven Cycles Cafe Racer

The Café Racer pays homage to the vintage motorcycles that once roamed Europe‘s motorways of the 1960‘s. Seven‘s exclusive IntegrityTM titanium tubing provides the utmost utility and durability.

Seven Cycles Expat S

The Expat is two bikes in one: a mountain bike for loaded pannier exploring and a touring bike that is off-road worthy. 700c wheels allow for every type of tire available—from 23c road slicks to full-on 29er mountain tires. Designed for multi-day exploration of uncharted territory, the Expat excels where the road ends.

Seven Cycles Halcyon

Long days and heavy loads make touring some of the most demanding riding there is. Seven’s touring-specific tubing design, along with custom geometry and options ensures comfort, handling stability, lightweight, and durability no matter where you go.

Seven Cycles Vacanza

A genuine touring bike, custom built with your choice of rack and fender mounts, extra water bottle mounts, and more. The Vacanza employs Seven‘s exclusive ArgenTM butted titanium tubing.

Specialized Tricross

Point the Tricross down anything from a gravel strewn fire road to a pothole packed bike path or maybe even a chunk of smooth single-track, and you’ll realize that its numbness-killing chassis, predictable geometry and robust wheelset will help you redefine what’s possible on two (skinny) tires.

Surly Cross Check

The frame itself is Surly’s own 4130 cromoly steel, and provides a relatively relaxed and forgiving ride. Like all of Surly‘s bikes, the parts package was chosen for its value, durability and purpose. Surly sells it as a 2×9 speed, but you could add a third ring if you wanted. Or you could make it a single speed. Or a fixie. People use it for commuting, light touring, single-track riding, hauling kids, just about anything you can do on a bike.

Surly Long Haul Trucker

If you want to carry a lot of stuff while riding your bike long distances, you‘d be hard pressed to find a better bike than the Long Haul Trucker. It starts with the frame, whose custom drawn 4130 tubing and geometry were specifically designed for loaded travel, low bottom bracket for stability, long head tube, long stays, the whole thing. Surly added braze-ons for everything you‘re likely to need. They gave it parts that are durable and long lasting, and ready to travel. Add racks, bags, and fenders… and go somewhere!

Terry Valkyrie Tour

The Valkyrie Tour is a sporty bicycle designed specifically for women that has clearance for fenders as well as has rear rack mounts, alpine gearing and all the comfort of steel for long, loaded days on the road.

Thorn Audax MK3

A superb frame, fast enough for high performance cycling. Comfortable enough for long distance Audax events. Strong enough for medium weight touring. Inexpensive enough for winter training.

Thorn Club Tour

A modern take on a traditional touring cycle at a good old fashioned price! With geometry that truly gives impressive handling! Ideal for leisure, medium paced Audax, commuting, touring and cycle camping.

Thorn Raven Nomad

The ultimate, yet affordable, Rohloff equipped expedition touring bike. With an option to add S&S couplers, the Raven Nomad is totally reliable, easy to maintain, and cheap to run. Lifetime frame guarantee.

Thorn Raven Sport Tour

The Thorn Raven Sport Tour is a high performance road-going machine with a sporty geometry, low bottom bracket height and tight clearances. It‘s a lightweight bike with traditional touring capabilities.

Thorn Raven Sterling

A high performance touring mountain bike, designed specifically for the Rohloff hub with the EX box. Utterly stunning off-road performance!

Thorn Sherpa

The Thorn Sherpa can take you to the other side of town, or to the other side of the planet. It is rugged enough to survive careless handling, yet light enough to be enjoyable in your sportier moods. The Sherpa is unlikely to be your fastest bike, but over time it may grow to become your favorite bike. It is so versatile and reliable. Good looking, but not ostentatious. You can take it anywhere.

Tout Terrain 5th Avenue

The 5th Avenue is a bicycle for the particularly discerning everyday cyclist. It runs exceptionally smoothly on a level thanks to its slim-line 28 inch wheels, and it effortlessly ascends slopes with its (in everyday cycling terms) sensationally low weight of just 12.5 kg.

Tout Terrain Boulevard

The Boulevard is a lightweight urban bike perfectly suited for pleasurable and classy cycling. Design and sophisticated technology are at the very forefront: balanced ergonomics, easy handling, and preeminent comfort.

Tout Terrain Grande Route

The Grande Route is a classic Randonneur who enables long distance riders to cover great distances in a sporty pace without abstaining from a comfortable seating position.

Tout Terrain Panamericana

With the Panamericana you are equipped ideally for all adversities you potentially experience on remote routes. Gravel roads and twisting single-track will hardly affect you, because the Panamericana is the first full suspension travel bike that is exclusively designed for this purpose.

Tout Terrain Silkroad

The Silkroad is an extremely robust travel bike. The “less is more” principle was the main focus when designing this bike. By integrating the rack into the main frame of the bike, many of the weak points you find on typical touring bikes have been cut out.

Tout Terrain Via Vento

The Via Veneto is characterized by its fast and agile handling and is especially designed for sporty cyclists who are looking for an urban bike as well as one that can be used for light touring.

Outfitted with features like an extremely durable butted chromoly frame, wide-range Shimano gearing, and stout Bontrager rims, the 520 strikes the perfect balance between the amenities you’ll want for comfort and convenience and the reliability and performance you’ll need for long-haul peace- of-mind.

Unibike Expedition GTS

A technically advanced, high-quality trekking bike made in Poland.

Unibike Globetrotter

Unibike‘s best-equipped touring bike. Complete Shimano LX indestructible, Schwalbe Marathon XR tires and an oil shock are just a few advantages of this super tough bike.

Van Nicholas Amazon

The geometry of the Amazon has been designed to enhance day-long comfort and stability under load, whilst still offering rewarding handling for a faster ride. The Van Nicholas Amazon is a Cycle-Cross/touring/upright road and Audax frame. You can seize the day and configure this frame in a multitude of variations to meet your performance and riding criteria. This bicycle comes in a ladies, Rohloff and Rohloff ladies version.

Van Nicholas Pioneer Rohloff

This bike was designed so that as little as possible could go wrong with it: so no hydraulic cables, no derailleurs and no front suspension. Van Nicholas combined a heavy-duty, paint-free Titanium frame with a Titanium seat post and bullet-proof Schwalbe Balloon Tires for comfort. And it comes with the integrated 14-gear Rohloff system (like having 27-MTB gears) for one- handed shifting through the entire range, whilst stationary or pedaling.

Velotraum Cross CrMo

This bike‘s Taiwanese welded frame is a contemporary interpretation of a classical touring bike with a heavy-duty steel frame. With rack mounts on the front and back, you can use this bike for your touring needs or use it to quickly get around on the open roads and asphalt strips.

Vivente World Randonneur

Developed by the team involved in the original ‘Randonneur Project’ that started in the early 1980’s. The frame is made from double-butted Cr-Mo steel to give a more ‘alive’ feeling that is a delight to experience, especially on a long day.

VSF Fahhradmanufaktur T-400

If you are looking for the ideal touring bicycle, the T-400 models from VSF Fahhradmanufaktur may be your answer. These bicycles have been designed to be extremely compact and robust. The frame geometry ensures high stability and good handling, and the Magura hydraulic rim brakes are there for safe braking in any situation.

VSF Fahhradmanufaktur T-700 XT

The epitome of timeless aesthetics and quality: The T-700 scores with its sporty handling, and offers high stability and ease. A good performance, durable, and fast bicycle.

VSF Fahhradmanufaktur T-Line

VSF Fahhradmanufaktur produces a number of commuter-style trekking bicycles in their line of T-50, T-100 and T-300 bicycles. The T-models from VSF Fahhradmanufaktur give you easy-to-control handling, equipment that meets all the requirements of your specific ride, and of course—elegance and comfort.

Windsor Tourist

An inexpensive, Eco-friendly sport utility vehicle. Custom Chromoly tubing and Touring-Specific geometry. So comfortable, it lets you hit the road without it hitting back.

While the bicycles listed on this page are indeed designed for the various modes of bicycle travel, I chose (simply as a matter of aesthetics) not to include any folding bicycles, recumbents, tricycles or cargo bikes in this list of touring bicycles.

This is only 100 of the more than 150+ different types of touring bicycles you can choose from. Inside The Essential Guide To Touring Bicycles there are even more touring bikes listed for you, along with detailed information about what makes a touring bicycle different from other bicycles you are probably familiar with (such as road and mountain bikes).

The Essential Guide To Touring Bicycles discusses the important features that makes touring bicycles ideal for long, multi-day cycling adventures and how the manufacturers of these bikes tweak their designs ever-so slightly in order to make the bicycle more rugged and able to carry more weight/gear, while at the same time making the bicycle more comfortable on your body (especially on your back, neck, arms and hands).

If you have experience with any of these bicycles, I would love to hear what you have to say. Leave a comment below and let me know what bike you have, how you’ve used it and what you like best/worst about that bicycle.

Darren Alff

My goal as the "Bicycle Touring Pro" is to give you the confidence and inspiration you need to travel by bicycle anywhere in the world. I'm here to help you plan, prepare for, and execute your first bike tour and remove all the guesswork, wasted time and frustration that plagues so many first-time bicycle travelers.

61 thoughts on “ The 100 Most Popular Touring Bicycles ”

2013 Specialized Tri Cross Sport Disc, decked out for touring. racks, fenders, a triple, brooks saddle, bar riser, trekking bars, front an rear torch. def not a turn-key but more passion goes into it.

Thank you for this list! It would be even more helpful, if you included price categories too, it would be even more helpful!

Price details and other information on each of these bicycles is available inside “ The Essential Guide To Touring Bicycles .”

Hey Darren, my name is Aiman. I’m brasilian spending the summer in Norway now, and realy feeling to make a small touring bike here. Something like a 5 days trip. The thing is that I’ve found one Merida Hybryd inside a container garbage here in Oslo and I’m trying to fix it to travel a bit. Since you like Norway and Sweden, and acctualy at this moment you are traveling in this area, I wanna ask you if you think that a simple Hybrid Merida would be enought to make this 5 days trip…cicling some moments on the asphalt and some moments in the forest (but more in clear paths and tracks). What do you think? Hope you are enjoyng your trip, Scandinavia is realy amazing, for sure! Thanks anyway, Aiman.

Yes, I think a Hybrid bike like that will probably work fine for a short 5-day bike tour. Just as long as it is in good working condition.

I agree. Some ball park prices would be very helpful..new biker age 77 … Jim Leslie

I have an original Bianchi Volpe, circa 1991. Tange superset and suntour xpress/x1 drivetrain. Winters, loaded touring, tooling around. I think that frame will outlive me. Glad to see they still build them, but I wouldn’t trade on the new model..

Where is the beautiful Cinelli Hobo?. Tested in de Tour d’Afrique

Thanks for the good and comprehensive list.

Please try to look at the following as well.

Cinelli touring bikes

The all original Miyata 610, 910 and the Miyata 1000

And the Urbanite from Toronto Urbane Cyclist, who will build it up to your niche

and of course the All City bikes

I had a Miyata 610 for a few years and did many three day trips on on it, and it would have been the same Miyata 610 the same bike I would ride from Vancouver to Montreal in 1986, however Air Canada destroyed my original Miyata. I stripped some of the non-standard stuff like my 40 spoke concave Weinmann back wheel and put it on my replacement Miyata 610. That 59 day ride from Vancouver was a trip of a life time. But definitely would still like to one day complete the stint to the East Coast.

Darren, you have included the Salsa Fargo but have omitted the comparable Surly Troll. As you know, I rode 6200 miles around the US on varying terrain and experienced few mechanical issues. I would recommend this bike to anyone who isn’t a weight weenie.

Dutch high-end Koga-Miyata has been re-named KOGA. No connections with Japan anymore. Dutch-German IDWORX is non-plus-ultra. Wow! Check it out and put it on this list, please. All German STEVENS is a favourite among Germans. Top quality.

Can confirm Ridgeback Voyager credentials – 3,800 miles tour round coast of Britain and LEJOG without a glitch

Great site and article congratulations. However most of the touring bicycles that you choose to shown in the article are “dream machines” with very big price tags which make them largely inaccessible to most of the “ordinary cycle-touring” enthusiast due to their high costs. Especially for touring cyclist from the south hemisphere like me… As a suggestion I would strongly recommend you take look on the “Revolution” line of touring bikes made by Edinburgh Bicycle Co-op’s, which in my opinion are great “entry” level or “not such expensive” options for cyclist that don´t have so much money to spend on a touring bicycle. Despite been a considerable cheaper option they have really good performance for bicycle touring. I have owned one a Revolution Country Traveller for a few years and cycled many many kilometers with it without any problems, including many kilometers in Brazil´s dirty road. So as said I would strongly recommended such bikes as excellent “entry” level or “not such expensive” options for cycle touring. Another thing that I like about those bikes is the fact that Revolution bikes are made by Edinburgh Bike Co-op, an UK’s original workers’ co-operative bicycle retailer, so when you buy one of those bikes you are helping the workers instead of giving money for big commercial bicycle brands that in the majority of the cases don’t really care about sharing their profits in a fair way with the workers they employee. So ultimately you will have a good affordable touring bike with the added value that it was build and commercialized in a much more fair and ethical way. If you want to know more about those bikes here is a link for a good review made by CTC, the teh UK national cycling charity: https://www.edinburghbicycle.com/comms/site_sizing/product-reviews/revolution-country-traveller-cycle/revolution-country-traveller-cycle.htm Warm regards Felipe Spina

Didn’t see the Surly ECR on the list. It is a workhorse for bike packing and off road touring. Don’t let the big 29+ Knard tires fool you though, it does well on sealed roads even though it lives for dirt and gravel.

Photo for the Cube Delhi appears to be a Giant CRX1. Lot of really nice bikes.

Hello all, here is my review of the Surly LONG Haul Trucker. I have the Bike since November 2010 and am very pleased with it. It is a very solid comfortable Platform for carrying loads of Gear. It gives a very comfortable ride over long distances. I got the complete Bike with the Standard Components plus SKS Mudguard . I just did not like that WTB Saddle that came with the Bike to sharp so I got a Brooks Leather Brown B17 Flyer Saddle with Springs which is very comfortable.

It is not a terribly fast Bike but fast enough , but dont expect it to chase after other Cyclists on group Rides. Now for the niggles , It could do with a Chain Guard around the front Chain Ring. I gouged my Ankle twice with the Teeth of the front Chain ring. So when you are getting your Bike , try and get a Chain guard put on the front Chain ring. Surly recommends you do not put a kick stand on your Chain stay. But it is hard to put a double kick stand on the Bottom Bracket. I have now got a Hebie kick stand that I want to put on the Bike.

I just do not like those Cantilever Brakes. They are fine for pottering around the City but not for going down steep hills in the Mountains with a full load . I like the idea of having Disc Brakes that are on the new LHTs more braking power. I have read reports of the repairability of Disc Brakes out in wilderness areas and it seems to be fine. So I am cautiousely optimistic of them and would get a bike with Disc brakes for Touring in the future.

Is there anything else I would like to rant about. It would be good for all Bicycle manufacturers to present there Bikes for sale with the options of having Mudguards and Pedals and Dynamo Lights already in Situ just like the Dutch Bikes. Everybody knows you have to have Pedals Mudguards and Lighting so why dont they have them on a Bike when you buy it and Dynamo Lighting is the best.

I love the Surly LHT between it and the Thorn Sherpa there is not much difference. If and when I choose another Touring Bike I think I will go for the Thorn Sherpa or Koga Miyata in Steel.

Thank you , this is so great!

Darren: Very nice list. Given the increasing number and variety of companies making touring bikes, perhaps the bike shops will eventually start stocking a few. The shop I deal with has a Gunnar touring bike, made by Waterford Bikes in Waterford Wisconsin, so I would ask that you include Waterford/Gunnar bikes on your list.

Louis Melini

HI there . A further Addenda to my above review of the Surly Long Haul Trucker. Some of you asked about price. I am from Dublin in Ireland and I ordered my Bike in October 2010 and was delivered to Shop in November so it took about two to three weeks to get to Ireland.

The price for the complete Bike was at that time € 1,200 Euro Tax included . The VAT rate Value added Tax / Tax sur le Value Adjoutee/ in Ireland was 21% then it has now gone up to 23%. So the price now might be a bit dearer than €1,200 Euro.

The Price for a Dawes Galaxy in Dublin in 2010 was € 1,500 Euro so the Surly LHT was very good value.

The brand name Koga-Miyata is history. It’s Koga since a couple of years. The list doesnot include the superb Idworx. A Dutch-German dream for any bike traveller with a healthy bank account.

What’s the matter with the Waterford?

I am 1.93m tall (6’4″) with 46 size shoes (13.5 in IS I think)

Long chainstay and long wheel base is most important for me (among other things of course). Which bike would you think would be more suitable for me from the European market?

thanks in advance Haris

Neat list…while my old tourer (LHT – stolen) is here, I’m fairly disappointed not to see my current touring bike, which I love, the Soma Saga. I got a great deal on it when my insurance money for the LHT came in…and frankly, I like it better.

Samtos travelmaster. The people at this company have no eye for detail and built the bicycle really really bad! Unbelieveble that people say they built good bikes. The dont care and it is just a mind game from them. The bicycles are not even build symmetric. The alignmentt of yhe bicycle is not good!! Bottom bracket is not good mounted. If you bought this bike… dessemble completly and put it back together. Met 5 s antos travelers and 3 oofthem would not have bought this bicycle again. It is not the dealer that is the problem it is santos and the peoplwith money (4000 DOLLARS)that don t know what they arebuying but taltalk like it . But that is thetargetgroup for santos, blind people with money who have no brains, for bicycles n! Not the real world travelers they only use (abuse) them for there promotion! Feeling bad for al the people who bought this bike for cycling 8000+km because you been marketed and lied to. Big change problems will sttart. Does internet stories don t tell the hole story. Warning!!

Ben, Dutch Santos has among the best touring bikes money can buy. A great many world cyclists from both the Netherlands and other countries are in high praise of their Travelmasters and other high-end models from Santos. Your comments are one-of-a-kind.

I’m Riska from Santos Bikes and I feel very sorry to hear that your Santos experience was not what it used to be. We would like to get in contact, so we can discuss whether we could help you to find a solution. We are always open for feedback and take this very seriously, as we have the ambition to build the best bike as possible for every unique person. You could always contact us directly, as our company is small and approachable. We would appreciate it if you could send us your feedback by email ([email protected]) or call us on +31 (0)252 426 123.

Best regards, Riska Santos Bikes

Nice list! I’ve never tried touring so I don’t really know what to expect but my friend does it often and he has the Cube Pro Tourer.

I love the description for the Cannondale bike, as I live in Kalispell, and yes I have seen these bikes around!

The best-descending bike I have ridden is a Bike Friday (Air) in ’05, though I spend more time on Serotta Ti and Bruce Gordon Rock and Road Tour. Why did the folding bike not make the list,especially as the packability of a bike seems so relevant?

No Rivendell’s??? The Atlantis is easily as capable as 75% of this list and I’d venture to say far prettier. Did I miss an explanation why you wouldn’t include a companies’ bikes that are in my opinion more suited to Touring than a number on your list… Evidence the Surely Cross Check???????

The Rivendell bikes are included inside The Essential Guide To Touring Bicycles: http://www.touringbicyclebook.com

What do you mean the Surly Crosscheck isn’t for touring, i did a 9000km tour on it.

Not one recumbent bike? Really?

That’s because this is a list of TRADITIONAL touring bicycles – not recumbent touring bicycles. You have to see http://www.touringbicyclebook.com for a list of recumbent touring bikes.

As to be expected very it turns out to be a list of generic steel bikes. However glad to see some Titanium bikes in there. Personally I wouldn’t ride anything else on a long tour after riding my Kinesis Tripster ATR to China last year. Innovative geometry, forgiving titanium, with custom carbon fork makes it beautiful to ride everyday, take a look here:

https://welovemountains.net/the-kinesis-tripster-atr-my-latest-thoughts/

You’re missing the Specialized Awol. It’s a nice bike, and certainly suitable for touring.

Great site!

In this article you miss the aarios bicycles, they are handcraftet and more ore less like the toutterrain, very good velos! I cycled with the aarios discovery through hole europe and in to weeks i will start my asia trip for 5months, and until now i had not once a problem or something with this bicycle.

Greets Oliver

After 28 years commuting and touring on a Peugeot 103 Carbolite heath demands have necessitated a model which has had to be step-through. Thorn cycles seemed to be one of the few companies to cater for older riders and had I been able to I would have gone to them. Unfortunately I now need some assistance and have had to go for an aluminium bike after a lifetime on steel. After a great deal of consideration I went with the Kalkhoff Agattu touring model. I have had this for three years now and it has certainly proved itself to be an able work-horse, both in its load-bearing capacity and in reliability. My only criticism would be that even the smallest model is just a few inches too high for my short legs. I had to remove the suspension saddle to get it to a level where I could cycle safely. The braking system is still a novelty after the appaling braking on the Peugeot. It is great to have such strong working brakes. The lights that come with the bike are not a great deal of use and I have added a pair of Catseye front lights which allow me to see and be seen on unlit country roads. I would still be nervous of using this on a long-haul trip, mainly because of the aluminium frame, (I’m still a steely at heart), lack of public availability of charging facilities and some nervousness about availability servicing of internal hub gears if this became necessary on the road. As my long-term plans did not include air transport, the extremely heavy weight was not an issue. It is not a bike to be lifted up and down stairs or on and off long haul buses! However, until I am forced to move to a tricycle, I think this bike will carry me wherever I need to go for the forseeable future and would highly recommend it to older cyclists or those with disabilities or hip/knee injuries. It will keep people on the road, enjoying life when they can no longer manage a conventional model.

I’d like you to consider adding Cinelli Hobo in the list above, Thanks in advance Darren.

Carmine Specchia [email protected]

This list deserves an update. Koga of the Netherlands is no longer Koga-Miyata (quite a few years already!. German-Dutch Idworx should be included – high-end, so it will cost ‘a few dollars more’. Hamburg-based Stevens is another good manufacturer of quality trekking bikes. My Stevens Sovereign XT Lite not only has a stiff frame, the components are top: Tubus, Pletscher, Ergon, Shimano XT, the best. Stevens bikes are much better than the VSF Fahrradmanufaktur ones, praised by the author of this list, Darren. Frames score good on stability? Forget it! Just go downhill fully packed and you will feel the difference with better bikes. My advice: spend more and you get so much more.

By the way, where do people from all over the world (yes indeed) buy a new quality trekking bike? Just visit http://www.vakantiefietser.nl . In Amsterdam, so another good reason to come to the Dutch capital. The best bikes, the best advice. No, I am in no way connected to them. Ask owner Eric about VSF!

Another good one to check out in the Four Corner’s Collection from Marin. Two build options.

I have the 2017 Marin Four Corners Touring bicycle. Very happy with frame geometry, stock 700x40c tires and disk brakes. For some reason this bike does not get much coverage, maybe cause other brands are just more of a house old name.

When I read your article I couldn’t help wonder where all the recumbents were. You have some nice bikes here but if you really wanted to sample everything there should have been at least 5 or 6 bents in the list. My bike for example. Slipstream by Longbikes. Long wheel base bicycle built like a tank. Capable of 100+ miles a day, day after day. Over sized tube. Good strong racks. Let’s you look at the scenery in stead of the road below you and never a soar muscle at the end of the day. I don’t think any of the bikes listed here can top that. I think you should rewrite the article. Be a little more open minded and get to the truth. I know bents are for every one but if a few people had voted in a different direction a few years ago these you listed here probably wouldn’t exist today. Why? Impractical, painful and unsafe.

A bike that is not on the list ,but that I do strongly recommend to have a look at is the “MTB Cycletech Papalagi”. It’s designt for touring around the world. ( https://www.mtbcycletech.com/core/shop/front/prodlist.php?parmx=cGclM0Q4JTI2bGFuJTNERw%3D%3D&parmz=f5424d8d8b8dc0feaeab6da8a59b63ed ). Another brand, which I could recommend is “Aarios”. They also make the offical Swiss Military bike. ( https://www.aarios.ch/produkte/reiseraeder.html

I have a 2016 Velo Orange Campeur, a medium trail touring bike in the old French style. Its not mentioned in your list, but is absolutely brilliant. Road, gravel, gentle off road; a fantastic machine. I’m running 700C x 38mm Compass tires, full fenders, 3 bottle cages, triple crankset (24/34/48) with an 11-34 cassette – just a lovely bike. I’m 70 so I need the wide range gearing. The only negative: after running discs on my 2006 Giant mtn bike turned commuter/tourer/errand bike, I find the cantis on the Campeur are woefully inadequate in the rain and require too much pressure on the levers when compared to one finger disc baking.

Ive been riding a Fuji Tourer for five years, its a really nice bike, but worn out a bit now. My next bike (in a few weeks I hope) will be a Vivente Swabia. This bike come fully kitted out with Rohloff 500/14 hub and Gates Carbon Drive. I’m very excited about it. The man behind these incredible bikes lives here in Tasmania, added bonus.

Don’t forget to include the new Santos Travelmaster 3+ !

REI bikes are now Co-op Cycles, they dropped the Novara name.

Thank you for site

Looking at a “National ” touring bike from Mountain equipment Co op.has pretty good components. Any opinions on this bike ?

What happened to the Waterford?

KOGA !!!! Not Koga-Miyata, that’s history.

Thanks for the article, Darren, but you made no mention of Specialized Awol or Awol Comp for bike touring? In your opinion, would you recommend this particular bike for touring? Thanks!

Fantastic bikes! I bought a custom Franklin Frame Mountain Expedition Touring bike in 1990. It has carried me over 100,000 miles without a problem. Phil Wood hubs and bottom bracket. It rides and rides across continents and 14 times across the USA. Frosty Wooldridge, 6 continent world bicycle traveler

so now a days people buy 4000 dollars bicyles to cycle 40000km .

I bought in 1990 a Giant Expedition model prune color with Shimano Deore LX set, i dreamed to travel, but i used for few trip to my town so basically i think did not ride 1000 Km perhaps few hundreds only. Stored in the garage it looks good and plan to keep anyhow. Wonder how would compete today after so many years with present production.

However the look is still very nice to me.

As a former NYC bike messenger in the glory days before a fax, beeper, internet, email and cell. When people modified beach cruisers into the first mountain bikes. When people knew how to ride a fix before it was a trend and now people pop they’re knees out and get joint pain and arthritis at twenty five. We looked for junked bike frames in the street found a decent 1″ inch steel Reynolds tube frame or later 1-1/8″ inch aluminum frame or purchase the ultimate prize that last forever and is bomb proof, titanium. Then started to collected the components and put them in a cardboard box. After you find your frame hang it on the wall like a painting then carefully research all your components separately. Don’t buy wheel sets purchase rims, spokes and hubs seperately and according to desired color. I’m old school with silver/naked aluminum parts only. Research the bearings, spindles, axle and metal cups materials, the various types of greases. Research your drive train, headset, bottom bracket, stem, handle bars, brakes, levers, cables, housing, caps, spindles and dimensions on pedals, crank arms, chainring count (steel). Front and rear derailleurs, chain (KMC). And shifters I prefer old thumb friction shifters but there is SIS, index. I personally do not like hydraulics, SIS, index, shocks unless I’m doing some kind of insane mountain racing. Regarding wheel size I’m an old fart, only 700C A.K.A: 29’s (road) and 26″ (mountain/cargo). They’ve called me an elitists bike snob (a$$hole) as I roll into the bike shop looking homeless and only purchasing Joe Smiley fuzzy dice for my wheels (big spender). The only big problems you should have on long tours are broken spokes and a few flats. The less moving parts the less you have to fix the more you enjoy the trip. If you built it you know how to fix it. If someone else built it become a commuter and don’t tour. When your in the middle of nowhere believe me you’ll learn your lesson in an ugly way. Have fun and don’t get hit by a crazied driver or attacked by wild animals or a Norman Bates country side serial killer or a steep fall.

I can’t believe you did not include the Bob Jackson Super Tourist. A fabulous bike with all Reynolds 531 double butted tubes, hand crafted and gorgeously painted. I’ve been a cycling tourist since 1973 and I sprung for a Bob Jackson Super Tourist in 1985. My 1985 Super Tourist has over 70,000 miles on it and it still performs like a dream machine. Sadly, after 85 years making great bikes Bob Jackson(RJR Cycles) is closing their doors in December, 2020. I’ve cycled all over Europe and North America from the deserts in the US southwest, through Alaska and Canada to the alps in Switzerland and Austria and throughout all of the UK. Never had a problem with this great bike. Always travel fully independent, self contained with panniers usually around 36-40 pounds. Gone through a couple of Brooks leather saddles, a few chainrings, 3 paint jobs and several freewheels over the years, but the frame and other components have held up beautifully. This is truly a classic touring machine.

Bianchi Volpe was recommended by my trusted bike expert. He beefed up the rear wheel and it’s been my ride from 2010 to 2020. Made it to the top of Monitor Pass (elev 8314), around Lake Tahoe, and all over Southern California. Solid, bomb-proof.

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• Touring & Bikepacking Bikes

Understanding the Different Types of Touring Bike Available

Touring bikes are not all designed with the same purpose in mind, in the same way that cars can be optimised to suit high-performance (sports cars), off-road tracks (4x4s) or utility (vans).

Yep, like cars, there are lots of subcategories of touring bike that are all optimised for slightly different purposes. By getting the bike that best matches your needs, you can make your bike tours easier! It took me a while to understand each category, but having written extensively about touring bikes for a while now, I will explain them all to you.

Other Linking Articles: – I discuss frame geometry in this article  for those who are unfamiliar with what it all means. – If you’re interested in the different touring bike manufacturers, check out the  Complete List of Touring Bikes Available .

Long-Distance Touring Bikes

Characteristics These touring-specific bikes are designed around long-distance bike travel, making them very capable at handling heavy loads on all types of terrain. Most often, steel long-distance frames are stiffer than anything else available because they use heavier frame tubing in larger diameters.

Long Distance bikes have a wide range of gear ratios to get you up the steepest hills, provision for a front rack, comfortable seats, three bidon cage mounts, long chainstays for ample heel clearance of your rear panniers, and a long, stable wheelbase. In addition, you will be able to mount touring specific tyres over 40c (700c) or 2.0″ (26″) in size. Long Distance touring bikes are what I recommend for big tours.

Geometry The geometry charts show slack head and seat tube angles, high trail, long headtubes, long chainstays and low bottom brackets.

Example: Surly Disc Trucker

Light Touring Bikes

Characteristics Light tourers use a tweaked road bike geometry to produce a fast bike that takes racks and panniers. Given the narrow tyres and lightweight nature of many of the parts, they are best suited to road-only use. Typically you will find 700c wheels with narrow tyres, similar geometry to a road bike and higher gear ratios – all of which are perfect for sealed roads. Be aware that there is often limited space for wide tyres/mudguards, and that there is often no small chainring ratio for steep climbs.

Geometry The geometry charts show that almost all measurements (head angle, seat angle, chainstay length, fork trail) are somewhat halfway between that of a long-distance touring bike and a road racing bike. They share a lot of geometry characteristics and handling features with cyclocross/gravel bikes.

Example: Sabbath Silk Route

Trekking Bikes

Characteristics Based on a ‘hybrid’ bicycle, this style of bike is most popular with European brands. They are often designed around light loads, equipped with a rear rack only, a suspension fork, an aluminium frame and gear ratios suited to sealed roads and bicycle paths. Trekking bikes can be as fast as ‘light touring’ bikes, but with the added bonus that they are more upright.

Geometry The geometry charts show slack head and seat tube angles, high fork trail, long headtubes, long chainstays and low bottom brackets.

Example: Stevens Sovereign SX

Full-Suspension Touring Bikes

Characteristics This touring bike subcategory is essentially a full-suspension mountain bike with tweaked angles and a higher front-end. With racks built above the suspension, it allows your pannier weight to be ‘sprung’ with you. The result? Suspension dampening that works effectively.

Example: Tout Terrain Panamericana

Long-Tail Cargo Touring Bikes

Characteristics Long-tail cargo bikes are great for big loads, carrying oddly shaped objects, or transporting children. You can squeeze two children’s seats on the back tray as well as loads of gear! I’ve seen cargo tourers carrying para gliders, surfboards, or simply cycling with extra panniers.

Example: Surly Big Dummy

Recumbent Touring Bikes

Characteristics No sore bottoms, sore backs or
 sore shoulders? Sounds pretty good to me. There are disadvantages to riding recumbent too: when climbing steep hills you cannot use your body weight to push the pedals down, riding in traffic you are far less visible to cars, and it can be harder to obtain spare parts.

Example: Nazca Pioneer

Folding Touring Bikes

Characteristics Folding bikes can make brilliant touring bikes. There have been many times where we’ve needed to use trains, get in trucks or hitchhike where we wished our bikes just folded up. Dealing with public transport is without doubt the most stressful time when we’re travelling.

Example: Bike Friday New World Tourist

Tandem Touring Bikes

Characteristics I originally ignored the idea of touring on a tandem with my partner, but the more we rode regular touring bikes separately-but-together, the more we wanted to switch to a tandem. Tandems are faster, more social, good for inexperienced cyclists (at the rear) and great for couples with a large difference in speed/ability.  Note: Tandems also come as folding, recumbent and semi-recumbent bikes.

Example: Co-Motion Equator

Other Categories – Road Touring

Cyclocross Bikes A bicycle marketed at ‘cyclocross’ can make a great touring bike, as the geometry is almost the same as a ‘light tourer’ – albeit with shorter chainstays. Cyclocross bikes are best used with light loads given they have lightweight parts and a gear range that lacks low end gears. Many people swap out the drivetrain to something with a wider gear range. Example: Kona Jake the Snake.

Gravel Bikes Over the past couple of years, the bicycle industry has created this “new” category. Gravel bikes essentially have the same geometry as ‘light touring’ bikes, and some even have eyelets for a rear rack. The thing that makes them different is that they’re built lightweight, and hence aren’t reinforced for heavy pannier loads… so again, light loads only.  Example: Co-Motion Klatch.

Randonneur/Audax Bikes Given that you can ride a brevet/randonee/cyclosportive event on almost any bike, randonneur/audax bikes as a marketed product aren’t too common. In fact, most bikes found with this name attached are custom builds. The current trend is to use 650b wheels and wide tyres to maximise rider comfort.  Example: Soma Grand Randonneur.

Road / Endurance / Sportive / Gran Fondo Bikes Road bikes (and their subcategories) can be great for lightweight road touring. You can use bikepacking bags to support a minimal load if you need to. ‘Sportive’, ‘Endurance’ and ‘Gran Fondo’ marketed bikes include minor design and geometry changes to optimise comfort over a ‘race’ road bike, and even have a nice wide spread of gears. Example: Cannondale Synapse.

Other Categories – Off-Road and Adventure Touring

29″ Touring Bikes This relatively new category of touring bike is essentially a 29er (700c) mountain bike with a higher front end and provision for racks, lights and water bottle cages. The advantage with these bikes is that you can fit 2.4″ mountain bike tyres (great on rough roads) and still have lots of clearance for mud. Examples: Salsa Fargo, Surly Ogre, Co-Motion Divide.

Mountain Bikes A typical mountain bike, most noticeable by its front suspension fork, can be used as a dedicated touring bike. But be aware that mountain bike frames and parts can be designed around strength-to-weight, rather than outright stiffness, so light loads are recommended. Example: Jamis Dragon 650b.

Expedition Bikes Expedition bikes are as close as touring bikes get to mountain bikes. They are specially designed to take on the worst conditions (snow, ice, mud, sand, corrugations) in the most remote environments. Although almost any long distance touring bicycle can be considered an ‘expedition’ bicycle (given their relatively bombproof part spec), expedition rigs take it up a notch again. They typically use 26″ wheels, 2.00″+ tyres, flat handlebars and sometimes Rohloff hubs. Example: Thorn Raven Sterling.

Fat Bikes and Plus Bikes What started off as a novelty has really taken off in the last few years. Fat and Plus bikes are most notable by their 3.0-5.0″ tyres which are capable of snow and sand riding in places that haven’t been explored by bike before. They are now being picked up by those adventurous enough to take on deserts and snowfields! Example: Surly Moonlander.

For More Examples of Touring Bikes, Check Out The  Complete List of Touring Bicycles Available .

• bicycle manufacturers
• touring bike
• touring bikes

With reference to “Have we missed any categories?” As a 63 year old going on 18 I had to think carefully about my next touring bicycle. I recently bought a HP Velotechnik Gekko tricycle from http://www.fairweathercycles.co.uk/ The main reason was balance, sad to say that as you get older balancing on two wheels can be a problem. BTW a great website.

In respect to recumbent touring bikes if you take a look at Crazy Guy On A Bike you will one of it not the most popular recumbent for touring is a long-wheel base bike such as the Easy Racer Tour Easy or Gold Rush Replica. These bikes having said that are much harder to come by in Australia and importation while possible is expensive.

That said an interesting read. Thanks for posting it.

I feel that the bikes you have shown are not the right geometry for touring. The best geometry is upright for comfort and being able to see the view. Drop bars are for racing and are not comfortable. This is a picture of my bike for touring its a surly ogre with raised handlebars, which i built myself. I think it would come under the “custom” category, more purist i believe 😉

Hi John. There’s definitely no “right” geometry for touring bikes! Everybody is different and touring cyclists tend to like all kinds of setups. I’m really glad you’ve got your bike setup the way you like it, but it isn’t for everyone. I use road handlebars on many of my bikes, which I find the most comfortable. My handlebars are also much lower than most because I am rather flexible and have a strong core strength. It’s worth noting that it’s possible to modify almost all of the setups on the above touring bikes to get the bars higher or lower. Alee

Hi Alee, I really like your website, its a great resource. I think you are right, everyone has their own preference for there ride, which is why I would like to see a custom category. I feel there is a lot of trickle-down from the popularity of racing bikes (e.g. in the Tour de France) which do not suit touring. If you are sat for 10 hours in the saddle it is essential that you find the optimum riding position, I do not think that is crouched down with your bum in the air, for one it puts weight on the arms creating arm ache and two it places less weight on the sit bones and more on the inner thigh and crouch, which is soft tissue and becomes painful after a while and three you cannot see the view 🙂

You are absolutely right John. Too much racer influence in cycling, especially in US and Britain.

Thanks for the awesome article.

We’ve spent hours and hours pouring over all the advice out there to try to find the best bikes for our cycle from Alaska to Argentina via the great divide, beginning in a couple of weeks time. We had planned to dip into the already tiny trip budget to buy a couple of Surly Trolls or Ogre’s however we’ve just been offered full sponsorship on a couple of Romet mountain bikes (I believe of our choice – still confirming) and could use the IBEX to lug along our stuff. Given we’re pretty budget sensitive but could fork out for a couple of Surly’s if absolutely necessary, please could you comment on what you think the best course of action is? I know people have done the Great Divide on penny farthing, and unicycles and so it’s ‘possible’ to do it on anything, but would the Surly’s really be worth spending a couple of grand more over Romets with a trailer?

Finally, the only take 26″ wheels or you’ll be stuck without parts for ages brigade has somewhat got to us but we’ve seen loads of people doing the same trip with 29ers. Does anyone know how available parts for 29ers are in Latin America

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The Best Bikes For Heavy Riders: What (And Why) To Buy / Avoid In 2023

December 9, 2022

Erik Bassett

Last updated: October 9th, 2023

As a heavier rider, it can be tough to find a bicycle that gives you confidence.

Maybe the salesperson at your local bike shop gets a little awkward when you ask for recommendations, as if they’d never seen bigger folks ride before.

Maybe you’re getting frustrated with wading through questionable “reviews” that proclaim some random Amazon model to be “the best.”

Or maybe you’ve already got a bike sitting in the garage, ready to roll, and you want to know whether it’s really up for your current weight.

The good news is that great bikes for heavy people are really just…great bikes in general. There are a few special considerations that we’ll discuss later, but odds are you have more choices and fewer limitations than you think.

Before diving in, what exactly makes a bike good for heavy riders?

Broadly speaking, you’ll want to look for:

• A steel or aluminum frame

Upright posture

• 32- or 36-spoke wheels (ideally 27.5″ or smaller)
• Hydraulic disc brakes
• A weight capacity that leaves room for cargo and accessories.

This generally means choosing a city, cruiser, touring, hybrid , or cargo bike. Mountain bikes are often recommended, but I advise against mountain bikes unless you’re actually mountain biking. This may conflict with advice you’ll read elsewhere, so I recommend reading through for some important context and guidelines that are often overlooked.

Bike options for riders around 300 lbs

The best bikes for 300-lb riders are more or less the best for everyone else, too. Lightweight road bikes and most (not all) folding bikes are generally out of the question, but nearly all other styles are fair game.

For instance, mainstream hybrids like the Trek FX and Specialized Cirrus among the best affordable hybrids for riders of any size , and support total combined weight of 300 lbs.

The same goes for the more upright Trek Verve, Specialized Roll , and my personal favorite, the Norco Scene.

You can also opt for a classic beach cruiser like the Electra Townie, a Dutch bike from the likes of WorkCycles or Gazelle (note: cruisers are different from Dutch bikes despite some resemblance), or essentially all mountain bikes on the market. Even most alloy road bikes are fair game—or at least not too much of a stretch—if you find their posture bearable.

In addition, my round-ups of the best value city/commuter bikes and even the lightest hybrids have some terrific picks for transportation and performance, respectively.

Long story short: if you’re modestly over 300 lbs, my personal opinion is that you don’t need to worry about finding a bike designed specifically for overweight riders. If you have your shop keep the wheels and bearings in tip-top shape, then serious problems are unlikely.

Yes, that conflicts with manufacturer guidance—more on this below—but stated weight limits are generally nowhere near a breaking point. And the gentler you ride, the more leeway you have.

Recommended bikes for 400 lbs & above

“Regular” bikes will provide far more options at a far lower cost, generally speaking.

But if you’re in the realm of 400 lbs or even above, then certain bikes will give you more peace of mind—or at least a valid warranty. Below are some of the best for a variety of uses and budgets.

Zize Time Of Your Life XG

Among three similar models from Zize, the Time Of Your Life XG stands out for comfortably upright posture. The price is hard to swallow, but the weight limit may be the highest for  any hybrid today.

Zize makes three hybrid-style models with a weight limit of 550 lbs :

• For more laid-back riding and cruising, the Time Of Your Life XG gives delightfully upright posture (something riders of all sizes should consider), and uses a “crank-forward” design for a stable, comfortable reach to the ground . It uses a 9-speed Shimano Altus derailleur for moderate climbs .
• For dirt and gravel riding, the top-of-the-line Yonder offers confidence-inspiring traction with 3″ knobby tires plus crisp shifting and wide-range gearing from a 10-speed Shimano Deore drivetrain.
• For sporty riding on pavement, the A New Leaf XG is quicker and more efficient thanks to 2.1″ tires, and its 9-speed Shimano Altus drivetrain will help you conquer modest hills .

I’d pick the Time Of Your Life XG simply for its uprightness. But all in all, it’s a tie: these three are similar in quality and price, but suited to slightly different purposes.

However, this “victory” comes with a big caveat.

Zize bikes win by default because they’re the only hybrid-style bikes for riders around 500 lbs.

In terms of value , they’re near the bottom.

With price tags approaching an eye-watering $3,000, I’d expect to see top-tier components throughout. Instead, while Deore/Altus derailleurs and Clark hydraulic discs are perfectly solid parts I’ve happily ridden …they’re the norm on bikes that retail for a third as much.

Zize sells to a narrow market segment, so I assume bulk pricing and purchasing power are out of the question. They also build bikes more or less to order, so inventory management is another constraint.

But Zize doesn’t sell a collection of parts. Others do the same for a fraction of the price. By putting cargo-bike weight capacity in a hybrid-bike form, they sell an entry point into an active lifestyle that many customers have never been able to experience.

If you don’t need that degree of weight capacity, then literally every other option on the list is a better deal—especially the one I’ll mention next.

But if you do, and if you have the budget, then it may pay off on a whole other level.

Worksman Industrial Newsboy/Newsgirl

Even with several heavyweight upgrades, the Worksman Industrial Newsboy (step-over) and Newsgirl (step-through) are still the best deals for riders who need a super-burly bike.

Worksman is a relatively obscure company that offers incredibly strong American-made bicycles at competitive prices.

For instance, their amusingly named Industrial Newsgirl (irritatingly named for its step-through frame) starts around $455 with a weight limit of 275 lbs. The Industrial Newsboy is a step-over variation of the same thing…but for normal use, I’ll take the step-through every time.

And here’s where get its good: for about $300 in wheel and brake upgrades (around $750 all-in), both will support up to 500 lbs . Worksman notes that they “actually put weight capacities far less than the true capabilities of the cycles.” So, no promises, but it may even outdo the far pricier Zize models. The same goes for the rest of their line, which includes slightly lighter bikes in more typical cruiser styles.

(By the way, it seems the Zize Supersize Newsboy/Newsgirl is the Worksman Industrial Newsboy/Newsgirl—with an extra $300–$400 tacked on.)

The only catch is you’re stuck with a rear coaster brake . Their low maintenance is nice, but their performance is terrible. It’s no accident that they’re basically relegated to beach cruisers and children’s bikes. The front drum brake option (part of the aforementioned upgrades) is essential, and likely sufficient, since the front has the vast majority of braking power anyhow. Still, a matching rear drum brake would have been a nice touch.

WorkCycles Fr8

WorkCycles remains the definitive brand for high-end Dutch bikes. Their Fr8 carries a serious premium for equally serious quality, and is arguably the most practical city bike money can bike.

WorkCycles is a definitive Dutch bike brand that frequently ships to the US.

While all their models are beefy and overbuilt to last generations , the Fr8 (that’s “freight”) has the greatest weight limit—technically not specified, but at least 240 lbs of cargo alone in addition to a large adult rider. I’d speculate that 400 lbs combined weight is no problem, and even 500 lbs is doable.

The bolt-upright posture is comfortable for literally everyone , albeit not the most efficient. But if just getting out is priority number one, then it matters more than you simply enjoy the ride. And, having had the privilege of a WorkCycles test ride, I can’t think of a more accessible (or useful) bike to own.

Most of the spec options cost in the mid- to high-$2,000 range shipped from Amsterdam . That’s hardly cheap, but it includes top-notch Shimano hub or disc brakes and Shimano or Enviolo hub gears , which mean essentially no daily maintenance.

So, why didn’t I recommend a Fr8 (or other WorkCycles model) right off the bat?

Well, at approximately 60 lbs, it’s heavier than many electric bikes. WorkCycles does sell electric assist kits, but that adds to an already high cost. Moreover, its long wheelbase can be difficult to maneuver, so they need to be stored outdoors or in a garage.

And if you’re one of the few who truly needs 500+ lbs of capacity, then Zize’s huge weight limit beats out WorkCycles’ better value.

The Yuba Kombi is a solid value on unsurpassed practicality and an unexpectedly fun ride. Sturdy enough for a very big rider and cargo, it's also a great way to cut back on car use.

Your weight alone doesn’t require a cargo bike. But as I’ll discuss later, they’re incredibly practical for other reasons: chief among which is, obviously, getting things and (other) people from A to B.

And so, to wrap this section up, I propose something unorthodox: the Yuba Kombi .

Its 24″ x 2.4″ wheels are steady under a load, nimble at low speed, and highly resistant to pinch flats. The 1×9 Shimano Altus derailleur is fine for rolling hills , and the Tektro mechanical disc brakes are decent and consistent, if not very powerful , once they’re well adjusted and bedded in.

There’s also easy one-size-fits-all sizing, abundant accessories , and a combined total weight limit of 440 lbs .

Storage is fairly easy , since smaller wheels keep the overall wheelbase in check, and the bike can actually store upright on its rear wheel and rear rack.

That’s a compelling package for just a bit over one grand, and one of the most practical mid-priced options around. It lacks the weather-proof drivetrain of a proper Dutch cargo bike, but it’s also less than half the price.

With that in mind, I’d argue the Kombi is one of the best bike values for utilitarian riders at 90 lbs, 390 lbs, or anywhere in between.

What about custom bikes for big riders?

If you can live with the WorkCycles or Zize price range, but want something significantly different—and, let’s be real, cooler —then custom options are worth exploring. Here’s how I’d go about it:

• Pick a steel touring, off-road touring/bikepack, or MTB frame with 26″ or 27.5″ wheels. Surly is a terrific brand to start with. (There are many others, but Surly’s distributed by industry giant QBP, so they’re easier to order through a local bike shop.)
• Weight limits aren’t always published with frame + fork sets, so confirm with the manufacturer.
• Enlist your local shop to hand-build a set of burly, 36-hole wheels that’ll take an absolute pounding.
• Pick some mid-range hydraulic disc brakes, like the terrific Shimano MT200.
• Spend the money for a name-brand headset (Chris King is arguably the grail) that withstands almost anything and is easy to care for.

Custom builds are obviously not the cheapest way. But if you’re well over 300 lbs (yet below 450-ish), they compare surprisingly well to a lot of ready-made choices.

Is it really OK to ride a bike at my weight?

Medically, that’s between you and your doctor. But mechanically, that’s a definite “yes”! Even though the classic cycling physique is quite lean, the truth is that cycling is absolutely OK, and often ideal , for people of all sizes.

It’s wonderfully low-impact and gentle on everyone’s joints, even if you’re significantly overweight. For those aiming to lose weight, it’s also a great way to shed fat sustainably while improving overall fitness and leg strength.

Even if bike shopping has been frustrating thus far, there’s a lot of upside to sticking it out and finding the right one.

Remember, any bike will let you ride as hard or as gently as you like. Terrain matters, of course, but low initial fitness needn’t keep you from getting out there.

Making sense of bicycle weight limits

Bicycles do have weight limits, but they vary enormously by type, brand, and model. Some are as low as 220 lbs whereas others exceed 500 lbs . If not specified, then 300 lbs is a good rule of thumb. Always check the website or owner’s manual to confirm.

Below are some approximate limits for the rider and cargo combined. This is just a starting point, since specific models will differ.

Metal frames and forks usually handle more weight than carbon weight, but there are exceptions galore. For instance, the all-steel frame Rivendell Sam Hillborne recommends just 220 lbs for the rider alone, which is around the max of most all-carbon bikes.

I can’t advise you to ignore a manufacturer’s stated limit. However, I can attest that many people exceed that limit (sometimes by 50+ lbs) without trouble. Let’s put those limits in context so you can decide for yourself.

Just how strict are these limits?

Weight limits are generally conservative .

For one thing, they allow for a lot of excess force. At least some bumps and obstacles are inevitable, and they can impart a force much larger than the rider’s static weight. For example, a light riders who hops curbs and plows through potholes may be likely to damage the bike than a much heavier rider who simply cruises along. If you’re a very heavy rider who’s less aggressive , then you might subject the bike to less stress than some light but aggressive.

Along those lines, weight limits are usually in the context of riding conditions . If a mountain bike has an official limit of 275 lbs for off-road riding , it’s almost certainly beefier than a road bike with a 300-lb limit for paved riding . It’s like dropping a 15-lb bowling ball on the floor from 3 inches, versus a 12-lb ball from a foot. Neither is a great idea, but the latter will cause more damage despite the lighter ball.

What’s more, weight capacity is largely a warranty and liability issue . Exceeding the weight limit doesn’t mean the bike will break. In fact, from the vast majority of accounts and anecdotes, it almost certainly won’t. But if damage did occur, it probably wouldn’t be covered by the warranty, even if your weight wasn’t the direct cause .

Finally, think about the nature of the risk . I’d be wary of exceeding a folding bike’s weight limit by more than a few pounds, since I’m horrified by the prospect of snapping a hinge in the middle of a bike ride. The same goes for ultra-light racing bikes where everything—from frame to spokes to seatpost—is made of the thinnest possible carbon fiber. As always, your mileage (and risk assessment) may vary.

What bikes should bigger cyclists avoid?

Nothing durable costs less than $500.

These days, $500 is on the lower end for any decent bicycle, although it’ll still snag a worthwhile entry-level hybrid bike.

Still, I continue to see $350 or $400 online specials listed as budget picks. I get it; everyone wants to offer a helpful option. But what those lists seldom mention are all the typical caveats of buying extremely cheap bikes on Amazon (and the like).

• Quality control can be hit and miss. There are plenty of horror stories of bikes arriving damaged in the box, only for the customer to get the run-around for weeks (not to mention the headache of packing and shipping it).
• You will need to spend $50–$150 on wheel truing and a general tune-up. So much for cost savings! There’s literally no chance that a bike in this price range will arrive with well-laced wheels. You get what you pay for, at best.
• A high weight limit isn’t sufficient. Everything from drivetrain components to brakes will be bottom-of-the-barrel, which means frequent adjustment at

So, are these even potentially good bikes? Well…no.

But are they worth considering for very limited and gentle use, with eyes wide open to these concerns? Still no.

I recommend that everyone save as little $100–$200 more for a solid bike from a reputable brand, or simply buy used (with advice from a friend, if needed). For heavy riders who need solid build quality and perhaps more frequent mechanical support, there’s no alternative worth my own money.

Folding & ultra-light bike options are limited

Folding bikes and ultra-light racing models generally have the strictest weight limits . As mentioned above, they may also have the highest highest likelihood of catastrophic failures.

Granted, folks on the lighter side of heavy—let’s say 225–275 lbs, give or take—still have choices in this segment. But above that point, options quickly dry up.

Anecdotally, many cyclists north of 300 lbs use carbon fiber bikes without issue. But given the propensity of carbon to crack, not merely bend, I’m not convinced that it’s a good risk-reward trade-off.

There are indeed some folding bikes for heavy people. They’re just not particularly good values, since they have little to commend them besides a high weight capacity. I’ve included some in the round-up section of this article just in case portability is essential…but if possible, you’ll have more and better options with non-folding bikes.

Don’t default to a mountain bike

It’s easy to find usable mountain bikes, but they’re not always appropriate for heavy riders. Plenty of hybrid, city, and other bikes are more practical while still providing a comfortable ride.

True, MTBs aren’t bad for general use, and they’re often recommended in guides like this thanks to their robust weight capacity.

But if you’re riding mostly on pavement or smooth dirt and gravel—you know, not mountain biking— they’re overkill .

• Wide, knobby tires that make it even harder to get up to speed.
• A suspension fork (let alone full-suspension bike) adds a few hundred bucks but serves little purpose around town. What’s more, entry-level suspension uses primitive dampening with little room for adjustment, so even off road it performs poorly under above-average weight.
• Generally, the lack of rack and fender mounts makes it harder to incorporate cycling into your daily routine.
• Their somewhat forward-leaning riding posture isn’t always comfortable for larger folks.

It should go without saying that if you plan to mountain bike, then buy an MTB. My point is simply that most folks have other purposes, to which other bikes are better suited—regardless of weight.

Skip road bikes with skinny tires

Road bike tires are often less than 30 mm wide. That’s no much air volume, so they require high pressure to avoid pinch flats (i.e., the rim compressing against and slicing the inner tube). Unfortunately, that also means a rougher ride and poorer traction , especially in the rain.

Consequently, I don’t generally recommend a road bike for heavy people, even if the weight limit and riding position are acceptable.

Fat bikes (probably) aren’t a match

It’s reasonable to think that a big rider needs big tires, but a fat-tire bike is too much of a good thing . Those voluminous tires certainly solve the pinch-flat problem, but they create another one: rolling resistance .

All that rubber means a ton of mass to start and keep spinning in the first place. And once up to speed, the size of their contact patch (the area that flattens against the ground) sucks up a lot of your pedal input. If you can imagine what monster-truck tires would do to a Civic’s MPG…you get the idea.

To be clear, they’re optimal for snow and sand. But in any other conditions, they’re an unnecessarily (and discouragingly) inefficient choice.

So what makes a good bike for heavy riders?

Generally speaking, heavier riders will feel at ease on a city bike, cruiser bike, or relatively upright commuter bike . Mountain bikes are also terrific choices if you’re actually riding off-road , but inefficient and pricey if you’re not. On average, all these types of bikes offer the right blend of posture, sturdiness, and value.

Obviously, the stated weight limit deserves consideration. Some manufacturers break it down by riders versus cargo weight, but if not, it’s best to assume the limit includes you and all your stuff .

Many people do ignore bicycle weight limits without trouble , but keep in mind it’ll void the warranty.

That said, the weight limit is just one factor. Several subtler things make all the difference between a bike that’s OK to ride and a bike that’s fun and reliable to ride.

As a heavy rider, start with a bike that sits you upright or nearly upright. It’s not always necessary, but it’s the most comfortable and accessible starting point—and often gets overlooked.

If you carry a lot of weight in your stomach and thighs , then not only is leaning forward uncomfortable, but it may cause hip and back issues as it forces your knees out to the side. That rules out most road bikes (which have a characteristically deep forward lean) as well as many (but not all) hybrid bikes and MTBs.

Upright city, commuter, and cruiser bikes avoid this problem, since your thighs never come close enough to your belly to cause issues. Whatever your physique, these styles bring a couple other benefits as well:

• They tend toward the sturdier side. Many are designed for reliable daily transportation with substantial cargo, which makes them terrific bikes for heavy people, too.
• They’re easier for tall riders to fit. Whereas a road bike typically comes in several sizes that require a precise fit, city bikes (and the like) come in just a few sizes with forgiving geometry and ample adjustability.

Ideally, the posture is upright off the shelf . If not, you can also replace the stem with a taller one and swap the bars for a more upright and swept-back option.

All told, upright bikes aren’t just a lesser, makeshift option. They’re the norm for everyday use in most places with strong cycling cultures. And even as a slim rider, they’re my first choice for everyday use.

Sturdy wheel construction

Wheels are the most common point of failure, even for average-weight riders. Look for double-wall alloy rims with at least 32 rear spokes and 28 front spokes (ideally 36 and 32).

Balanced spoke tension is the key to a strong wheel. The process of evening out the tension is called “truing” the wheel. Have a bike shop do so before your first ride (most will have done it during unboxing) and consider bringing it in for truing a few times per year thereafter—or more often, if the wheel looks or feels asymmetrical as it spins.

If possible, choose 27.5″/650B or even 26″ wheels instead of the typical 29″/700C. Smaller diameter means greater strength and stiffness, less frequent truing, and a lower likelihood of flat spots in the rims. They’re also more nimble at low speeds, and slightly quickly to accelerate thanks to reduced weight.

Hand-built wheels with wide-gauge, triple-butted spokes are generally the strongest and most durable. They’re also costly to build, and basically non-existent off the shelf. Consider them as a potential upgrade if you keep breaking spokes despite regular truing and a sufficient (32+) spoke count.

Powerful brakes

Hydraulic disc brakes are generally the most powerful kind, so I highly recommend them on bikes for big guys and gals.

More weight means more momentum, which means more force needed to stop. You can get sufficient force out of rim or mechanical disc brakes, but it requires significantly more hand strength. Better still, hydraulic discs remain equally powerful when wet, require little maintenance, and enjoy long pad life with easy replacement.

Eight-inch and even larger rotors are available on certain mountain bikes, but 6″ rotors are fine for anyone who’s not bombing down mountainsides.

Other brake considerations

If rim brakes are the only brake type available on a bike you otherwise like, then look for V-brakes (also known as linear pull brakes). They have the greatest mechanical advantage of any type of rim brake, and generally outperform entry-level mechanical discs.

If you go the route of a traditional Dutch bike, then you’ll probably encounter hub brakes . They lack the raw power of good front and rear disc brakes, but are still effective at typical city riding speeds.

Low gearing

Getting a large body going requires a lot of force. You can do it through raw pedaling power—that’s the hard way—or through lower gearing that provides higher torque.

While three speeds are usually enough for city bikes, go for 7+ unless you’re in a totally flat place. Seven speeds ensure a fairly low gear already, and you can always swap the front chainring to fine-tune the gear range.

Truly hilly cities—think San Francisco or parts of Seattle—call for wide range via 8-speed hub gears or a double front chainring.

Steel or aluminum frame material

Frame material alone doesn’t determine weight capacity. The size, shape, and thickness of tubing is far more important. For instance, a carbon mountain bike is designed to take a beating, and its high weight capacity makes a steel road bike seem downright delicate.

For cost and manufacturing reasons, steel and aluminum frames are the norm. Many of them are extremely robust, and all are more cost-effective than (sturdy) carbon fiber.

That said, most of the sturdiest cargo and utility bikes use a durable steel frame. It’s a classic for a reason. Unlike carbon fiber, steel is not brittle, so it gracefully handles knocks and bumps (and can even be repaired). And unlike aluminum, a steel frame doesn’t have a fatigue limit , so it can theoretically last forever if well cared for.

A step-through frame?

If swinging your leg over the saddle poses an issue, then look for a bike with a step-through frame. It also makes mounting and dismounting a breeze when you’ve got cargo attached to a rear rack.

(Historically, these have been called “women’s” bikes, although it’s simply a practical choice that many men—including me—prefer for urban riding.)

A non-obvious reason to consider a cargo bike

If you plan on carrying large amounts of cargo (e.g., 50+ lbs), then cargo bikes are a no-brainer. Weight limit aside, their handling and components are optimized for stability and maneuverability under several hundred pounds of load.

But there’s another reason: cargo bikes have some the burliest wheelsets you’ll find off the rack. If that’s been a problem with conventional bikes, and you’re not keen on the posture or style of brands like Zize or Worksman, then cargo bikes solve a lot of problems.

Which to pick? That deserves its own article, but in my very limited testing, it’s hard to go wrong with entry-level models from companies like Yuba and Tern. They’re unexpectedly spritely and immensely practical . They’re also cost-prohibitive if you’re not sure cycling is for you, but on the flip side, they’re built to serve as a lifelong car alternative.

Do electric bikes make more sense for big riders?

They absolutely do. If the effort of cycling feels daunting, then e-bikes are the best way to overcome that obstacle and simply get moving in a fun way. You should expect significantly less range than reported, since most range tests use riders of roughly average adult weight. All the component and posture guidelines in this article apply to e-bikes, too.

If you’re worried that an electric bike would undermine your fitness goals, then let me put your mind at rest. Not only has research found that e-bikes are terrific exercise , but you can always dial the assistance up or down to whatever level of exertion you prefer.

Tips & upgrades that heavy cyclists should consider

Ergonomic grips.

The more weight your hands bear, the more your choice of grips will affect your comfort. The best ergonomic grips can make a world of difference for a modest cost—and can even be transferred to other bikes in the future.

A supportive saddle

Squishy saddles may feel nice, but they transform into a chafing, cumbersome nuisance after a few miles. Instead, look for a firm and supportive surface, just enough width to support your sit bones, and (for upright bikes) a sprung saddle frame to take the edge off impacts.

I’m a huge fan of Brooks saddle for general riding. Their B33 and B135 are designed especially for heavy riders; just note that they require a specific seatpost, so check with a bike shop if you’re unsure about compatibility.

If discomfort persists, then check out this guide to bike saddle pain for some other potential causes and solutions.

Regular bearing care

Almost every moving part on your bicycle uses bearings. They have a finite lifespan, which gets shorter as the rider gets heavier. Hub and headset bearings take a pounding in particular, since they’re never not bearing weight. How long they last is hard to call. Quality, alignment, and weather conditions—not to mention your weight and riding style—can affect their longevity by an order of magnitude.

A burlier rear wheel

I mentioned wheel quality earlier, but it’s worth reiterating. Rear wheels in particular take an absolute beating: not just the hub bearings (see above) but the rims themselves. After all, they bear most of your weight, most of the time.

Wheels don’t need to be expensive, but they do need to have a high number of wide spokes (36+ and perhaps 14-gauge or wider) and some attentive truing before their maiden voyage.

How to Choose a Touring Bike in 2024

By: Author Zachary Friedman

Posted on Last updated: February 20, 2024

Categories Bicycle Touring and Bikepacking , Bikes and Cycling

Home » Bikes and Cycling » Bicycle Touring and Bikepacking » How to Choose a Touring Bike in 2024

You can tour on pretty much any bike. That said, s ome bikes are better suited for long-distance fully loaded riding than others. This guide explains how to choose a touring bike. In this guide, I’ll outline all of the different features and components to look for. I’ll cover frame design, gearing, wheels, brakes, handlebars, tires, luggage, and more. This guide covers both on-road and off-road touring bikes. Hopefully, this guide helps you pick the right touring bike for your next tour.

For bicycle touring, comfort, stability, and durability are key. Weight and speed aren’t as important. The best touring bike for you depends on where in the world you plan to tour, the distance you plan to tour, the terrain, your budget, your body type, and your personal preference.

There are a number of different types of touring bikes to choose from. A round the world tour requires a different bike than a weekend camping trip. A road tour requires a different bike than an off-road adventure.

Generally, a traditional touring bike will have an overbuilt steel frame with wide tire clearance, 700c wheels with 36 spokes, wide-range gearing, drop bars, and mechanical disc brakes with a comfortable upright riding position and plenty of mounting points for luggage, water bottles, and accessories. These features make the bike ideal for long expeditions.

I started bicycle touring about 10 years ago on an old mountain bike. Since then, I have toured around 10,000 miles through multiple countries on a range of different bikes. I have experimented with dozens of different configurations from internal gear hubs to hydraulic disc brakes. In this guide, I’ll share my experience.

What Type of Bike Tour are you Planning? Considerations When Choosing a Bike

Before making any decisions, you want to consider how you’ll be using the bike. These choices will help you determine the features and types of components to look for when choosing a touring bike.

• The type of terrain you plan to tour on- Do you plan to tour on-road or off-road? If you plan to stay on the pavement, a more road-oriented bike with skinny tires and drop bars may be a better choice. If you plan to spend your time riding trails and dirt roads, you may be better off with a more off-road oriented bike with wide tires and wide handlebars. Mountain bikes can make good touring bikes.
• Your touring destination- If you’re touring in developed countries like the US, Western Europe, Canada, Japan, Australia, New Zealand, or South Korea, you can use any components you wish because replacement parts are readily available. This means you can use modern, high-end gear like hydraulic disc brakes, 700c wheels, and a carbon frame. If you’re touring in the developing world, spare parts can be hard to come by. You’ll want to choose a bike that uses standard-sized, low-tech parts that are durable, easy to find, and easy to repair and maintain. Examples include 26 inch wheels, rim brakes, and a steel frame.
• Your budget – Most of us are limited by a budget. Used touring bikes that are in decent condition run around $500-$1000. Entry-level touring bikes run around $800-$1200. Mid-range options run $1400-$2000. The best touring bikes start at around $4000 and the sky is the limit from there.
• How long you plan to tour- If you’re going on a 5 year round-the-world expedition, you’ll want the most durable and reliable touring bike that you can get. If you’re just riding a couple of hundred miles, you may wish to optimize your bike for weight and speed. You could also get away with a used or low-end bike.
• How much gear you need to carry- Are you an ultralight tourist or do you prefer to tour fully loaded? If you eat in restaurants and stay in hotels every night and don’t need camping gear, you can get away with a lightweight frame and small panniers. If you tour fully loaded with camping gear and 10 days worth of food, you’ll need a heavy-duty frame, front and rear racks, and wheels that can handle the weight.

Types of Touring Bikes

Touring bikes come in a wide range of designs. They all include strong frames and wheels that are designed for carrying a load. Frames offer plenty of mounting points for racks, water bottle cages, and accessories. Touring bikes can be separated into three categories depending on the type of terrain they are designed for. 

Road Touring Bikes

At first glance, these look just like standard road bikes. They have the same general frame shape and typically use drop bars. There are a few key differences. The frame usually has a geometry that allows for a more relaxed upright riding position and increased stability. There are braze-ons for attaching front and rear racks and panniers. Most road touring bikes include strong 700c 36 spoke wheels with tires that are slightly wider than traditional road tires. These allow you to handle the occasional dirt road when necessary. Road touring bikes are an excellent choice if you plan to mostly stick to the pavement.

Off-Road Touring Bikes (Bikepacking or Adventure Bikes)

These bikes are designed for touring on rough terrain and off-road. They closely resemble mountain bikes with a few differences. Off-road touring bikes usually do not have suspension. The frame and fork are rigid. They include wide or knobby tires that allow you to ride dirt and gravel roads and trails. The wheels are usually 650b or 29er. Off-road touring bikes are an excellent choice if you plan to spend most of your bike tour off the pavement. 

Expedition Touring Bikes

These bikes are designed for hardcore, extremely long-distance rides through remote regions. This is the type of bike you would ride from Cairo to Cape Town or from Alaska to Argentina. Expedition touring bikes use durable, long-lasting.

They also come with standard sized components such as steel frames, 26 inch wheels, and rim brakes. These parts may be considered outdated but they are common and relatively easy to find all over the world. Expedition touring bikes can be built for predominantly on-road use, off-road use, or somewhere in between.

Some cyclists are choosing fat bikes for particularly remote expeditions like riding across desert or snowy environments.

Touring Bike Frames

Touring bike frames need to be comfortable and made from durable materials that can handle high mileage and heavy loads. They also need to fit the components that you plan to use. This section outlines touring bike frame geometry and materials as well as component and accessory compatibility. 

Frame Geometry for Touring Bikes

Most touring frames have a geometry that puts the rider in a more upright riding position than standard road bikes. This is achieved by placing the handlebars higher in relation to the seat. Sitting upright puts less stress on your back and wrists. It also allows for more efficient diaphragm breathing. Your neck also sits in a more neutral position.

Having a long wheelbase is also preferable for touring because it improves the bike’s stability. The wheelbase is the distance between the front and rear hubs. Having a long wheelbase makes the steering a bit less sensitive. This allows you to sit back, pedal, and enjoy the view without having to constantly correct your steering.

Many touring bikes also have long chainstays. The chainstays are the bars that run from the bottom bracket to the rear dropout. Long chainstays allow you to use large rear panniers without having to worry about your heels hitting them while you pedal. This feature is particularly important for taller riders.

Frame Material for Touring Bikes: Steel Vs Aluminum

Steel is the most common frame material for a number of reasons. First, steel offers excellent ride quality because it isn’t completely rigid. The material flexes a bit which allows it to dampen vibrations and shocks. This makes for a smoother ride. Steel also incredibly strong and durable. A steel frame can handle tens of thousands of miles without fatiguing and cracking. If the frame does break, it’s easy to find a steel welder to repair it pretty much anywhere on earth.

The main drawback to steel is that it is inefficient. Steel is heavy. Heavy steel frames take more energy to accelerate and maintain speed. Steel also flexes. When the frame flexes you waste energy that could be used to drive you forward. The reduced efficiency causes you to ride at a slower average speed. Steel can also rust which can ruin the frame if left untreated.

Aluminum framed touring bikes are also popular these days. The main advantage aluminum has over steel is the weight. Aluminum is lighter because it has a lower density. A lighter bike is more efficient and faster. Aluminum is also more rigid than steel. This also helps to increase efficiency. Steel is the cheapest frame material.

The main drawback to aluminum is that it tends to fatigue more quickly than steel because the material is harder and more rigid. The frame probably won’t last quite as long. The rigid material is also less comfortable because it doesn’t absorb vibrations as well as steel. Another drawback is repairability. Aluminum isn’t easy to weld so you may have trouble finding someone who can repair it if your frame cracks.

Higher-end frame materials includ e titanium and carbon fiber. Titanium frames  are expensive but incredibly strong and durable. Carbon fiber frames are not recommended for bicycle touring because most cannot accept racks for mounting panniers. They are also less durable than metal frames .

For more info, check out my guide: Steel Vs Aluminum Bike Frames.

One other less common material to consider is bamboo .

Bike Frames and Component Compatibility

Regardless of your frame material and geometry, you need to consider which components you plan to use before committing to a frame. Not all components are compatible. You must decide on:

• Disc or rim brakes- The frame needs the proper mounting points for the brakes that you prefer. I’ll talk more about brake options later on.
• Internal gear hub or derailleur- Pretty much all frames are compatible with derailleurs. If you plan to run an internal gear hub, make sure the frame has the proper mounting points for the chain tensioner.
• Wheel size- Frames are designed to work with one specific wheel size. If you fit a different wheel size, your bottom bracket could be too low or too high. There are exceptions to this. Some frames can work with multiple wheel sizes.
• Tire width- Your frame determines the maximum tire width that you can install. If you plan to do a significant amount of off-road riding, make sure your frame can at least accommodate a tire that is 2.5 inches wide.
• Thru-axles or quick release- Thru-axle frames use different dropouts than quick release. For more info, check out my thru axle vs quick release pros and cons list .

Braze-Ons (Bosses or Rack Mounts)

Braze-ons are threaded fittings that are welded onto the frame. They allow you to mount racks, water bottle cages, fenders, and other accessories. At a minimum, you’ll want braze-ons on the sides of the fork and seat stays. These allow you to mount racks and panniers. You’ll also want braze-ons inside of the triangle for mounting water bottle cages.

Some touring bikes include a multitude of braze-ons all over the frame and fork for mounting additional water bottle cages, pumps, fork cages, and more. For touring, the more braze-ons the better. They just give you more options in terms of the types of luggage and accessories you can mount.

Wheel Size for Touring Bicycles

When it comes to wheel size, you have three main choices for touring. Listed in order of smallest to largest, they include:

• 26 inch (ISO: 559mm)- This is the classic mountain bike wheel size. 26 inch is the most common bicycle wheel size found around the world. These are common on expedition touring bikes because spare tires, tubes, and rims are easier to find in remote regions.
• 27.5 or 650b (ISO: 584mm)- Both of these have the same diameter. The name depends on your region. This size is increasing in popularity among bicycle tourists and bikpackers. It’s a nice mid-size between 26 inch and 29er wheels.
• 700c and 29er (ISO: 622mm)- These both have the same rim diameter. The difference is that 700c refers to road bike wheels while 29er usually refers to mountain bike wheels. 700c rims are more narrow. 29er rims are wider so they can accommodate wider off-road tires. 700c is the classic touring bike wheel size.

The best wheel size comes down to whether you’re touring off-road or on-road and where in the world you plan to tour. Generally, if you’re touring in the developed world on road, 700c is the best choice. If you’re touring through remote regions or the developing world, 26 inch is the better choice. 

In the following section, I’ll outline 700c, 26 inch, and 650b wheels. I also made this video which contains much of the same info. 

 700c (and 29er) Wheels

700c is the best and most common wheel size for road touring. 700c wheels offer a comfortable ride. They easily roll over obstacles like potholes and stones due to the large diameter. They are also more efficient because larger wheels have less rolling resistance. 700c wheels also offer the most options in terms of tires, rims, and frames because it is the most popular size tese days. In the developed world, parts availability is excellent.

One drawback to 700c wheels is that they are structurally weaker than smaller 26 inch wheels. The spokes are longer due to the larger diameter. This means you’re more likely to suffer broken spokes. The wheels can’t handle quite as heavy of loads either. Parts availability is not as good in the developing world. You may have trouble getting a new tire or rim in remote regions. 

29er wheels have the same benefits and drawbacks as 700c. The difference is that they are designed to fit wider tires for off-road use. These wheels are great for riding on rough terrain because they easily roll over rocks, branches, and other obstacles due to the large diameter.

26 Inch Wheels

26 inch wheels are preferable while touring through remote regions because parts are much more widely available. If you destroy a wheel, you’ll probably be able to find a new rim or spokes. Even in undeveloped areas. Tires and tubes are easier to come by as well. 26 inch wheels are also structurally stronger than 700c wheels because the spokes are shorter. This means they can handle more weight and take a bigger beating without breaking.

The main drawback to 26 inch wheels is that they ride a bit rougher due to the smaller diameter. They don’t glide over obstacles. You’ll also have fewer options in terms of tires and frames because this size has fallen out of favor in the developed world. Manufacturers are mostly focusing on larger wheel sizes these days.

650b (27.5 Inch) Wheels

650b wheels fall somewhere in between 26” and 700c in terms of strength and performance. For some riders, 700c is too large but they still want the benefits of a larger wheel. In this case, 650b is an excellent compromise. Some riders find that 650b wheels perform better off-road than the other sizes.

The biggest problem with 650b wheels is parts availability. This is probably the least common wheel size around the world. If you’re traveling through Central Asia and you crack a rim, you may have to have a new one shipped in or fly home to buy a replacement.

Wheel Strength and Number of Spokes

With all of the extra weight you carry while touring, wheel strength is almost as important as wheel size. Your wheel strength is determined by the number of spokes, the spoke pattern, the quality of the wheel components, and the build quality.

For touring, 36 spoke wheels are ideal. The extra spokes give your wheels the strength to carry the extra weight of all of your gear. They also allow you to handle rougher terrain. You’ll suffer fewer broken spokes or cracked rims with 36 spoke wheels. At a minimum, your touring bike wheels should have 32 spokes. For more info, check out my guide to 32 Vs 36 spoke wheels.  

The spoke pattern is also important. Wheels with spokes that cross are stronger. If the spokes cross multiple times, they’re stronger yet. 

The quality of your hubs, rims, and spokes also play a major role in the strength of your wheels. The wheels are one part of your bike that you don’t want to cheap out on. Look for double-wall rims, steel spokes, quality hubs made by major manufacturers. A quality set of wheels can last over 20,000 miles.

You also want to make sure that your wheels are properly built. If the spokes aren’t tensioned properly or if the lace pattern is wrong, you’ll suffer broken spokes. Before setting off on a tour, consider getting your spokes tensioned or check the tension yourself. If you’re buying new wheels, make sure that they were built by a quality wheel builder.

The wheel material is also worth considering. For touring bikes, aluminum wheels are generally preferable to carbon fiber. 

To read my complete analysis on touring bike wheel sizes, check out my guide: 26 inch vs 700c Bicycle Wheels.

For touring, you may also want to consider installing a dynamo hub. These generate electricity as you ride. You can use this electricity to charge small electronic devices such as your phone, GPS, camera, etc. You can also power a headlight. For more info, check out my guide: Are Dynamo Hubs Worth it? 

Touring Bike Drivetrain: Derailleurs and Internal Gear Hubs

This is the most mechanically complex part of a touring bike. The drivetrain transmits power from the pedals to the rear wheel. It also shifts the gears. A bicycle drivetrain consists of cranks, chainring(s), rear cog(s), a chain or belt, and derailleurs or an internal gear hub.

With all of the hundreds or thousands of miles you’ll be pedaling, the drive components need to be reliable and durable. Touring takes its toll on components. You want to choose parts that can stand up to heavy use so you don’t have to spend your time making adjustments and replacing worn-out parts. This means avoiding lightweight and high-tech components that are designed for racing. You want to choose heavy-duty parts that are tried and true

For touring, you’ll also want a wide gear range with at least one very low gear. The gear range is the difference between the lowest and highest gear. A wide gear range allows you to handle the varied terrain that you encounter while touring.

Low gears, which make pedaling easy, are particularly important for touring. As you can imagine, they come in handy while pedaling your heavy, fully loaded bike up a steep mountain pass. For fully loaded touring, 20-100 gear inches is a good range.

When it comes to touring bike drivetrains, you have two options for your gearing: derailleurs or internal gear hubs. Below, I’ll outline both and explain a few of the main benefits and drawbacks.

Derailleur Drivetrains

Derailleurs are the most common gear shift system for touring. Most touring derailleur drivetrains have a triple crankset and 8-10 speed cassette for a total of 24-30 gears.

These days, some bicycle tourists are moving toward a single chainring and 11-12 speed cassette because no front derailleur is required. This further simplifies the system. 

The main benefit of using derailleurs is simplicity. Derailleur drivetrains are easy to repair and adjust with simple tools that you can carry in your tool kit and some basic bicycle knowledge. Replacement parts are also much easier to find. Even local bike shops in remote locations carry derailleurs, cassettes, shifters, and cables. If something wears out or breaks, you can usually find replacements and get back on the road. This brings peace of mind. Derailleur drivetrains are also inexpensive, lightweight, and efficient.

There are some drawbacks. Derailleurs require quite a bit of maintenance. In order to keep everything running smoothly, you need to regularly clean and lube the chain, adjust the derailleurs, and replace the cassette and chain when they wear out (usually every 5,000-10,000 miles). Derailleurs can be a bit temperamental. Because the system is open, they can easily get contaminated with sand, dirt, and other debris. In poor weather and dirty conditions, they need frequent cleaning. 

Internal Gear Hubs

Most modern touring bikes use an internal gear hub. Internal gear hubs house the gears and gear change mechanism inside of the rear hub. They change the gear ratio with planetary gears. The best internal gear hubs for touring is the 14 speed Rohloff Speedhub. These are popular for their incredible reliability, longevity, and smooth performance. 

The main benefit internal gear hubs offer over derailleurs is that they are very low maintenance. To keep them running, you just have to change the oil every 5000 km and keep the chain clean and lubed. Because all of the moving parts are sealed away in the hub, they are also durable and long-lasting. Some riders have gotten over 100,000 km out of their hub. Other advantages internal gear hubs offer over derailleurs include the ability to shift while stopped and shift multiple gears at once. You can also use a belt drive which makes the drivetrain virtually maintenance-free.

Of course, there are several drawbacks. The biggest being the cost. An internal gear hub that is suitable for long-distance touring costs as much as a complete touring bike with derailleurs (around $1600). Another issue with internal gear hubs is the fact that they are not easily repairable. In fact, most bike shops won’t touch them outside of doing routine maintenance. If your hub fails, you usually have to ship it to the manufacturer to have it repaired or replaced. Finding replacement parts can prove problematic as well. You need the proper oil and sprockets when the time comes to do maintenance. These aren’t available everywhere. You may need to carry them with you through certain sections of your tour. Internal gear hubs also offer fewer gears and a smaller gear range than most derailleur drivetrains.

To read my complete analysis, check out my guide: Derailleur Vs. Internal Gear Hub.

Brakes for Bicycle Touring

As you can imagine, it takes an enormous amount of braking force to stop 300 pounds worth of touring bike, gear, and rider while speeding down a steep mountain pass at 30 miles per hour. Needless to say, you need reliable and powerful brakes for touring.

When it comes to bike brakes, have two choices: rim brakes and disc brakes. Most touring bikes these days come equipped with mechanical disc brakes. These are a great choice for off-road touring, riding in mountainous regions, and riding in poor weather. Rim brakes are ideal for expedition touring through the developing world. Below, I’ll outline the benefits and drawbacks of each touring brake type.

Rim Brakes for Touring

These are classic bike brakes. Rim brakes apply braking force directly to the flat sides of the rims with calipers that mount to the frame and fork. Rim brakes are actuated with steel cables that run from the brake lever to the calipers.

The advantages of rim brakes are that they are cheap and simple to maintain and repair. If something goes wrong, you can tear the whole caliper apart on the side of the road with a few simple tools. You can easily see the pads to observe wear. If you need a new caliper or pads, you can easily buy them anywhere in the world. Rim brake parts are incredibly common. Additionally, rim brakes are easy on forks and wheels because the braking force is transmitted through the rim. They are also lighter than disc brakes.

The main disadvantage of rim brakes is that they offer less stopping power than disc brakes because the y provide less mechanical advantage. Rim brakes also don’t work as well in wet or muddy conditions. When the pads and rims get wet, friction is reduced. This increases your stopping distance which can be dangerous. Rim brakes also produce heat in the rim that can cause blowouts if they get too hot. Rim brakes can also limit your max tire width if you’re using wide knobby off-road tires. The rubbing of the pads wears out the rims over time. 

Disc Brakes for Touring

Disc brakes apply braking force to rotors that are attached to the hubs. The calipers mount to the fork and chainstay or seatstay, near the axle. When you pull the brake lever, brake pads in the caliper squeeze the rotor to create friction and slow the bike down.

There are two types of disc brakes. Mechanical disc brakes are activated with steel cables, just like rim brakes. Hydraulic disc brakes use fluid-filled lines in a pressurized system to press the brake pads against the rotor.

Hydraulic disc brakes are not recommended for bicycle touring because they can’t be serviced in the field. If the fluid leaks out for whatever reason, you’re stuck. Parts are also hard to come by in much of the world. For more info, check out my hydraulic vs mechanical disc brake guide.

The main benefit disc brakes offer over rim brakes is that they provide more stopping power because they create more mechanical advantage and have a larger stopping surface. This reduces your braking distance and improves safety. Disc brakes also stop more reliably and quickly in w et weather. Additionally, heat buildup is less of an issue with disc brakes because they don’t heat up the rim. Disc brakes also allow you to run wider tires.

The main argument against using disc brakes for touring is that parts are harder to find in some parts of the world. If you bend a rotor or a caliper fails while you’re riding through Central Asia, you may not be able to find a replacement. Disc brake parts are also harder to service because they are more mechanically complex. They are also more expensive and heavier.

Tires for Bicycle Touring

The tires are one of the most important components. After all, they are the only point of your bike that makes contact with the ground. Tires greatly affect the handling and ride quality of your bike. When it comes to choosing tires for your tour, consider the following:

• Tire width- The ideal tire width for your touring bike depends on the types of surfaces you intend to ride. Wider tires handle better off-road. They get better traction and absorb shocks and vibrations. Narrow tires are preferable for road touring because they produce less rolling resistance, allowing you to ride faster and more efficiently. For road touring, the minimum size recommended is 28mm. Many bicycle tourists choose to ride 35mm-40mm wide tires because they are wide enough to handle some gravel roads. They also make the ride more comfortable. For bikepacking or off-road touring, most riders prefer 2-3” wide tires.
• Puncture protection- Some tires are built with a strip of Kevlar or similar durable material inside which reduces the likelihood of punctures. Staples, nails, tacks, and other debris can enter the tire but don’t make it all the way to the tube. Of course, you can still pick up a flat if you hit a large enough piece of debris to puncture the tube. Puncture protection adds weight to the tire but saves you from having to stop and patch your tubes.
• Durability- This is determined by the material that the tire is made of. Tires made of harder compounds last longer. Tires made of softer materials usually wear more quickly. Generally, harder tires don’t offer as much traction as softer tires. Touring tires, like the Schwalbe Marathon, can last 6,000-12,000 kilometers or more depending on the type of surfaces you’re riding.
• Tread pattern- The tread pattern plays a role in the tire’s traction. Knobby tires with deep tread maintain traction on loose gravel, mud, and dirt. They are ideal for off-road riding and bikepacking. Slick road tires are more efficient for road riding but can lose traction on loose surfaces. Most bicycle tourists use tires with a simple tread pattern that can provide grip on a variety of surfaces.
• Tube or tubeless- Some tires are designed to be used without tubes. These use special rims and an internal sealant that makes them airtight so a tube isn’t needed to hold the air inside. The main benefit of tubeless tires is that they patch themselves when they are punctured. They seal puncture with a special sealant that is sprayed in the tire during installation. Some tourers make it 10,000km or more without a single flat while running tubeless. For more info, check out my tube vs tubeless guide.
• Your frame and brakes- The max tire width that you can use is determined by your frame and rim brakes. If your tires are too wide, they can rub on the fork, chainstays, or seatstays. They may also be too wide for your rim brake arms to reach around them. In this case, the tires will rub. Fenders can also limit your tire width. You’ll need to measure the max clearance before buying wide tires.
• Folding or non-folding- Some touring tires can fold up, making them easy to carry as a spare. Some tires have a wire bead inside that cannot be folded. When the tires are installed, it doesn’t matter whether or not they can fold. This only matters for spare tires that you’ll be carrying. 
• Price- High end touring tires are pricey. You can spend up to $100 per tire if you want the best. If you’re on a budget, you can buy low-end tires for $10-$20 per tire.

Touring Tire Recommendation

One of the most popular tires for bicycle touring is the Schwalbe Marathon Plus. These touring tires feature a Kevlar belt for puncture resistance. The Marathon Silica compound is incredibly long-lasting. They come in a wide range of sizes and widths.

Handlebars for Bicycle Touring

The handlebars play a major role in the comfort, handling, and efficiency of your bike. After all, they are one of only three points that your body comes into contact with the bike.

Touring bikes usually come with either drop bars or flat bars. Drop bars are traditionally used for road touring while flat bars are usually used for off-road touring and bikepacking.

Another popular handlebar option for touring is trekking bars. These are usually installed as an aftermarket part.  Trekking bars work great for mixed-terrain touring and expedition touring.

Each style of handlebars has its own set of benefits and drawbacks. In this section, I’ll outline the three most popular touring bike handlebar options. I’ve also made this short YouTube video comparing drop bars and flat bars. 

Drop bars offer multiple hand positions. This improves comfort by allowing you to move your hands around so you use a different set of muscles. You can ride longer without your hands going numb or cramping up. Drop bars are also efficient. They achieve this efficiency by allowing you to crouch down into an aerodynamic riding position. This reduces drag. You can ride further using the same amount of energy and maintain a slightly higher average speed. Drop bars also give you more leverage for climbing hills. 

The main drawback is control. The narrow profile of the bars doesn’t give you quite as much leverage to steer quickly or accurately as a wider flat handlebar. For this reason, drop bars aren’t ideal for technical off-road riding. Another drawback is that drop bars offer less space for mounting accessories like a cycling computer, light, GPS, your phone, bags, a bell, etc. Parts are also slightly more expensive and hard to come by in some regions. You may also have to move your hands to a different handlebar position to use the brakes. This can increase your stopping time. 

Due to the wide profile, flat bars offer precise control. This is ideal for technical off-road touring. Flat bars also offer a more upright riding position that many riders find more comfortable. Visibility is better as well because the upright riding position allows you to look ahead instead of toward the ground. Shifters and brake levers for flat are also cheaper. Parts are more widely available in remote regions.

The biggest drawback to flat bars is the lack of hand positions. You really only have one place to hold on. The solution is to install bar ends. Another problem with flat bars is the fact that they reduce efficiency. The upright riding position increases wind resistance. When you’re sitting upright, your chest acts as a sail. This slows you down and takes energy to overcome. You burn more energy while riding flat bars. Climbing hills is also slightly harder because you can’t shift your weight as far forward.

To read my complete handlebar analysis, check out my guide: Drop Bars Vs. Flat Bars.

For even more touring handlebar options, check out my guide: 17 Types of Bicycle Handlebars.

Trekking Bars (Butterfly Bars)

These large, figure 8 shaped handlebars are popular among bicycle tourists due to the endless number of hand positions that they offer. Another benefit of using such large handlebars is that you can easily attach all of your accessories. Trekking bars also offer excellent control and the cockpit feels very roomy with the large and wide bars.

The biggest drawback is the weight. Trekking bars are wide and heavy. The large bars also tend to flex. Some riders find that the shifters and brake levers are too close together which makes the bike feel a bit unstable.

A Note About Handlebar Grips

The grips play a major role in the handlebar’s comfort and affect your ability to steer, shift, and brake. Bad grips can cause numbness, blisters, and fatigue. To help you choose the best style for your touring bike, check out my guide to the different types of bike grips. Also, check out my lock-on vs slip-on grip guide for more info. 

Pedals for Touring Bikes: Flat and Clipless

Your choice of pedals mostly comes down to personal preference. In fact, many touring bikes don’t even come with pedals because many riders prefer to choose their own. When deciding which pedals to install, you have three choices: flat pedals, clipless pedals, or clips and straps.

Based on the bicycle tourists that I’ve met and my research, it seems that bicycle tourists are pretty evenly split between flat and clipless. If you’re an avid cyclist and you already ride clipless, you’ll probably prefer riding clipless while touring. If you’re more of a traveler than a cyclist, you may prefer riding flat pedals.

To read my complete analysis, check out my guide Flat Pedals Vs. Clipless Pedals.  Below, I’ll outline a few of the most important points.

Clipless Pedals

Clipless pedals allow you to attach the bottoms of your shoes to your pedals. The idea is that your foot stays in the ideal position and prevents it from sliding around while riding at a high cadence. The clipless mechanism allows you to easily attach your shoe by stepping on the pedal and detach your shoes by rotating your heel out. A clipless system consists of the pedals, special cycling shoes, and cleats, which bolt to the soles of the shoes.

Clipless pedals offer a few advantages over flat pedals. First, they improve efficiency for some riders by encouraging better pedaling technique. This is helpful if you’re a sloppy pedaler. Next, clipless pedals give you more control. When you’re attached to the bike, you can use your lower body to help maneuver the bike and lift a wheel. You can also pull up on the pedals with clipless. This can help you complete a steep climb by allowing you to use a different set of muscles in your legs. Additionally, clipless pedals reduce knee stress, improve comfort, and allow you to ride at a higher cadence without risking your feet slip off.

The biggest drawback is that it’s easier to injure yourself while riding clipless. This is true for two reasons. First, if you improperly place your cleat, you can cause yourself joint pain or damage. Secondly, if you forget to unclip when coming to a stop, you can just tip over. Another drawback to clipless is the cost. Pedals are more expensive. You also have to buy specialty shoes to ride in. One problem with touring with clipless is that you have to pack a second pair of shoes to wear off the bike. Clipless shoes aren’t very comfortable for walking.

If you’ve never ridden clipless, I’d recommend you give it a try. Most people that I’ve met seem to prefer it once they switch.

Flat Pedals (Platform Pedals)

These are the basic pedals that you grew up riding. They are platforms without any bindings. Flat pedals usually have some kind of nonslip design to prevent your shoes from slipping around. They are made of metal or plastic.

Flat pedals are cheap and easy to use. You don’t have to adjust cleats or do anything to set them up. They also don’t require that you wear special shoes. You can wear any athletic shoes or sandals that you already own. This saves space in your panniers because you don’t have to pack a second pair of walking shoes while touring. Flat pedals also make it easier to get on and off the bike. You can just put your foot down.

One drawback is that flat pedals offer less control. It’s harder to lift a wheel over an obstacle or manhandle the bike when you’re not attached. Some bicycle tourists ride slower with flat pedals because they don’t allow you to produce quite as much power. Riding at a high cadence of 80-100 RPM is also harder because your feet tend to slide on the pedal. Your feet can also slip off the pedals while riding on rough or slippery roads. When your feet slide off, you can cut and bruise your shins.

Clips and Straps

Before clipless pedals were invented, there were clips and straps. These attach to flat pedals to create a cage that holds your foot in place on the pedal. The clip is a rigid piece that holds your foot in the proper position. The straps secure your foot with a buckle or Velcro.

Clips and straps offer many of the benefits of clipless pedals without requiring special footwear. They are also cheaper than clipless pedals. Straps also allow you to pull up on the pedal.

The main drawback is that clips and straps are a bit difficult to get in and out of. They can be dangerous if your foot gets stuck or if you overtighten the strap. 

Luggage for Bicycle Touring

When it comes to choosing your luggage, you have three options: panniers and racks, bikepacking bags, or a trailer. Which luggage system you choose depends on the terrain you plan to ride on and how much gear you need to carry.

Bikepacking bags are a better choice for riders who plan to spend most of their time riding off-road. They are also  an excellent choice for minimalists who don’t carry much gear.

Panniers tend to work better for riders who stay mostly on the pavement. They also work well for those who need to carry a lot of gear, like expedition riders.

Trailers are a less popular option that can be used instead of or in addition to panniers or bikepacking bags. They can accommodate a large amount of gear.

Below, I’ll outline each type of touring luggage and list a few of the major benefits and drawbacks.

To read my complete analyses, check out my guides: Bikepacking Bags Vs Panniers and Panniers Vs Trailers.  For some budget tips, check out my budget bicycle touring setup. 

Bikepacking Bags

Bikepacking bags are soft bags that attach directly to your bike’s frame with straps and Velcro. They don’t require metal racks or braze-ons.

There are three main bikepacking bags including:

• Handlebar roll- This is a dry bag that straps to the handlebars. Handlebar rolls accommodate 15-20 liters of gear. Most models have straps where you can lash bulky gear. Some handlebar rolls are a simple harness that you can use with your own dry bag. 
• Fame bag- This is a triangular bag that fits in your bike frame’s triangle. They attach to the top tube, seat tube, and sometimes downtube with straps. Frame bags are often custom made to maximize space. Most models hold 8-15 liters of gear and close with zippers or buckles. The capacity depends on your frame size.
• Seat pack- This teardrop-shaped bag attaches to the seat post and saddle rails. Most models work like compression bags. This allows you to compress your clothing and sleeping bag so you can hold more gear. Most seat packs accommodate 8-17 liters. Many models also have straps on the outside where you can lash additional bulky gear like sands or a cooking pot.
• Additional bags and accessory bags- There are a number of smaller bags that can accommodate an extra 1-5 liters each. Accessory bags include top tube gas tank bags, handlebar-mounted feed bags, handlebar roll bags, and fork-mounted cages. These are a great place for storing small gear and food that wouldn’t fit in your main bags.

The main benefit of bikepacking bags is that they are aerodynamic and efficient. The streamlined design causes less air resistance than panniers. This allows you to ride at a slightly faster average speed and use less energy. Bikepacking bags are also about 25-50% lighter than panniers and racks. You can mount bikepacking bags to any bike because they don’t require braze-ons. They also improve handling and allow you to ride rougher terrain because your gear is held tightly against the frame. This balances your load and prevents it from bouncing around too much.

The biggest drawback to using bikepacking bags is the limited carrying capacity. An average bikepacking setup only has 40-60 liters of space for all of your gear and food. That’s about 20 liters less than comparable panniers. Because of the limited space, you’ll have to use expensive ultralight camping gear. This increases the cost of your gear. Some riders have to wear a backpack for extra storage as well. Due to the odd bag shapes, it can also be harder to pack and access your gear with bikepacking bags. Packing up in the morning can take longer. The straps also make removing and replacing the bags a bit of a hassle.

Panniers and Racks

Pannier are soft, rectangular bags that attach to metal racks on the front and rear of the bike. They attach with a hook system. Most bicycle tourists use 4 panniers, 2 in the front and 2 in the back. Rear panniers usually hold 25-70 liters combined. Front panniers hold 15-30 liters combined.  

The racks bolt directly to braze-ons on your bike’s frame and fork. They are made of steel, aluminum, or titanium. Some racks have a flat top where you can attach bulky gear like your sleeping bag or a duffle bag for more storage space. Steel racks are the best choice for touring because they can easily be welded together if they crack.

The main benefit panniers and racks offer over bikepacking bags is the volume of gear that they can accommodate. An average setup, like those from Ortleib, holds 65 liters of gear. Extra-large panniers and a duffel bag on the rack can hold up to 120 liters. Strong steel racks can hold over 100 lbs. Due to the rectangular shape and large top openings, panniers are also easy and efficient to pack. You can even carry a laptop in a standard rear pannier. The mounting system also makes panniers fast and easy to mount and remove. They clip and unclip in seconds. This makes it much quicker and easier to pack and unpack at camp. 

The biggest drawback of using panniers is the loss of efficiency. You’re less aerodynamic with large rectangular bags sticking out on the sides. Panniers are also heavier. An average pannier and rack setup weighs around 4.5 kg while bikepacking bags weigh around 2 kg. The reduced efficiency means you burn more energy while riding the same distance. You’ll also ride slightly slower so you can’t ride quite as far every day. Another drawback is the handling. Particularly while riding off-road. Panniers just aren’t as well balanced as bikepacking bags. They also tend to bounce around while riding on rough roads. Panniers can’t be mounted to every bike. They require the proper braze-ons.

Bike Cargo Trailers

Bike trailer designs vary widely. They attach either to the rear axle or seat post with a quick-release mechanism. Trailers come in one and two wheel versions. Some have large wheels and suspension for riding off-road. Some have small wheels to make them packable and lightweight. Most trailers are designed to carry a waterproof duffel bag that holds 60-100 liters of gear. For more info, check out my guide to the different types of bike trailers.

A major benefit of using a trailer is excellent handling and maneuverability. Because the weight of your gear sits on the trailer instead of the bike frame, the bike rides almost like it’s unloaded. Trailers also allow you to haul large and bulky items like a hiking backpack. If you use a trailer, you can tour on pretty much any bike because a trailer puts very little extra weight on the bike’s frame. Many of your bike’s components will also last longer because the bike doesn’t have to hold as much weight. Some riders find it convenient to use one large bag for hauling gear instead of multiple smaller panniers or bikepacking bags.

Trailers have a lot of drawbacks. First, they are heavy. An average trailer weighs about 6 kilos. That’s 1.4 kg heavier than panniers and racks. Trailers also add more parts to maintain and repair. There is another wheel that can get a flat or broken spokes. It can be hard to find replacement parts as well. Another problem is that the size of trailers makes it hard to fly with your bike  to your touring destination. The trailer wheel(s) can also hit potholes and other obstacles, making the ride a bit rougher. 

Saddle for Bicycle Touring

Comfort is key for touring. If your saddle is uncomfortable, you can’t put in the miles. You can also develop saddle sores. The most important factor determining saddle comfort is the fit. It needs to fit your sit bones properly.

Bike saddles come in a variety of widths. Which width you need depends on the distance between your sit bones. Narrow sit bones measure less than 100 mm. Medium sit bones measure between 100 mm-130 mm. Wide wit bones measure more than 130 mm. You can measure your sit bone distance in most bike shops. You can also measure it at home.

Check out this thread from Bicycles Stack Exchange for some ideas on how to measure your sit bones.

Saddles are measured across the top. Most manufacturers sell a small, medium, and large size. If you can, it’s best to test them out in a local bike shop before you buy.

The saddle material is another important consideration. This mostly comes down to personal preference. You have two main options: leather and synthetic. I’ll outline each below.

Leather Saddles

Leather saddles are probably the most popular style for touring. Over the course of 500 or so miles, they form to the shape of your butt, creating a custom-like fit. They are firm and supportive. Leather saddles also last for decades if properly taken care of.

One of the more popular saddles among bicycle tourist is the Brooks B17. This is the saddle that I use. Check out my full review of the saddle here.

The biggest drawback to leather saddles is that it can get ruined if they get wet. If you choose a leather saddle, you’ll want to cover it up while you’re not riding. I use a plastic bag for mine. You can also buy a cover.

Leather saddles also require a bit of maintenance. You’ll have to rub them down with proofide every once in a while to keep the leather soft and supple. If you don’t, it may crack and ruin your saddle. You also have to tighten the leather occasionally. There is a small bolt on the front of the saddle you turn with a wrench to tighten the leather.

Synthetic Saddles

Synthetic saddles don’t require any maintenance. They aren’t affected by water or sunlight. These are great for bicycle tourists who don’t want to have to pay any mind to their saddle.

The drawback is that these saddles don’t last as long. Synthetic materials like foam and gel break down more quickly than leather. They’re also generally less comfortable because they are too soft. After 20-30 miles they start to cause pain. They don’t offer enough support. Sometimes they begin to rub and cause or a rash. Of course, comfort is subjective.

Many cyclists like to pair a firm saddle with padded cycling shorts. This combination gives you a bit of padding while still offering a good amount of support. Padded shorts also help to prevent saddle sores.

Touring Bicycle Prices

Unfortunately, most of us don’t have unlimited funds to spend on our new touring bike. To choose the best possible touring bike for your budget, you may have to make some compromises. Below, I’ll outline a few price ranges and what to expect for each.

Mid-Range Touring Bikes

An average off-the-shelf touring bike cost around $1400-$2000. For that price, you’ll get a nice steel frame with durable, mid-range components. Some mid-range touring bikes include racks and fenders. Many offer a nice saddle like a Brooks B17. You get the best bang for your buck in this price range.

A few popular mid-range touring bikes to consider include:

• Surly Long Haul Trucker/Disc Trucker
• Surly Bridge Club
• Thorn Sherpa  
• Salsa Marrakesh
• Salsa Fargo
• Trek 520 or Trek 920
• Ridgeback Panorama
• Co-op Cycles ADV 1.1

Most major bike manufacturers offer at least one touring model these days. 

Low-End Touring Bikes

If you’re on a tight budget, your best option is to buy used. You can get some excellent deals on the above bikes if you keep an eye out. Plenty of people buy touring bikes with big tour plans in mind. They set their bikes up with nice racks and panniers then never get around to using them. Some people buy a whole touring setup for just one bike tour then sell it at a major discount. You could probably find one for less than $1000 if you shop around on Craigslist, eBay, and Facebook marketplace.

If you want to buy new, there are some great touring bikes available in the $800-$1200 price range. These use most of the same components that you find on a mid-range bike with a few exceptions. Manufacturers cut a few corners are cut to meet the lower price point. For example, some of these bikes use rim brakes or slightly lower-end derailleurs, cranks, etc. The bikes are still perfectly suitable for light touring. A couple of popular lower-priced options include:

• Fuji Touring Bike
• Marin Four Corners
• Cube Travel
• Dawes Galaxy
• Ridgeback Expedition

I owned a Fuji Touring and loved it. Read my full review here.

If you’re on a tight budget, a great option is to convert an old mountain bike into a touring bike. You can start with a vintage bike from the 80s or 90s with a nice steel frame, clean it up a bit, and install a few upgraded components. For just a $200-$300, you can build yourself a durable touring bike that is capable of crossing a continent. This is what I did with my Schwinn High Sierra.

High-End Touring Bikes

If money is no object, the best route is to go custom. You can have a frame made to fit your body and riding preference. You can handpick the exact components that you want. Expect to spend around $4000+ for a bike with a custom made frame with high-end components fitted.

The sky is the limit in terms of price. It would be pretty easy to spend over $10,000 if you want a titanium frame, Rohloff hub, S&S couplers, and top-end components.

A Few Touring Bike Accessories

After buying a touring bike, there are a few additional pieces and parts you’ll probably want to add. You’ll need:

• Fenders- These are pretty much essential for touring. They prevent water and mud from splattering all over you and your bike when the road is wet. Fenders can limit your maximum tire width. Your frame must also have the proper mounting points. Pretty much all touring bikes accept fenders. 
• Bottle cages- While touring, you need to stay hydrated. You should carry at least 2-3 water bottles. Some cages can accommodate larger bottles than others.
• Lights- Your lights alert drivers that there is a cyclist. They also help you see where you’re going when it gets dark. You’ll want a bright headlight mounted on the handlebars. It should have a flashing mode. Your rear light should be a bright red light that flashes. Your lights should be waterproof as well.
• A bike lock- Unfortunately, bike theft is a common problem all over the world. Make sure you get a good lock to keep your new touring bike safe. 

My Ideal Touring Bike

If money was no object and I was building myself the perfect touring bike, it would include the following features:

• Custom titanium frame- with S&S couplers installed.
• 700c wheels- As a taller guy, I prefer the geometry of a bike with larger wheels.
• Rohloff Speedhub 14 speed internal gear hub- This is Rohloff’s flagship product. It is probably the most reliable and precise IGH on the market.
• Trekking handlebars- I’m not really a fan of drop bars. Trekking bars offer plenty of hand positions and space for mounting accessories.
• 45 mm mixed-use tires- I tour mostly on-road but I like having the ability to explore trails and more scenic routes when they’re available.
• Flat pedals- I’m kind of undecided whether flat or clipless is better for touring. I like riding in my normal shoes and sandals on flat pedals.
• Firm leather seat- I love my Brooks saddle. After I broke it in, it became incredibly comfortable.
• Bikepacking bags- I’m an ultralight traveler. I prefer the balance that bikepacking bags offer.

Final Thoughts

There is no perfect touring bike but you can get close. Some of these decisions depend on the type of touring that you plan to do. Some come down to personal preference. Hopefully, this guide has helped you out with the decision making process.

Another thing to remember is that you don’t have to go out and spend thousands of dollars on gear to go on a bicycle tour. You can always go on the cheap. Traditional touring bikes are great but pretty much any bike is capable of taking you across a continent as long as it fits and is well maintained. You can tour on a standard hybrid bike, gravel bike, road bike, or even a mountain bike. You don’t need a bike that is specifically designed for touring.

Which features and components do you prefer on your touring bike? Share your experience and tips in the comments below!

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More from Where The Road Forks

• Touring with a Folding Bike
• Review of My First Bicycle Tour
• Winter Bicycle Touring and Bikepacking Tips
• Tandem Bike Touring
• Electric Bike Touring

Zachary Friedman is an accomplished travel writer and professional blogger. Since 2011, he has traveled to 66 countries and 6 continents. He founded ‘Where The Road Forks’ in 2017 to provide readers with information and insights based on his travel and outdoor recreation experience and expertise. Zachary is also an avid cyclist and hiker. Living as a digital nomad, Zachary balances his professional life with his passions for hiking, camping, cycling, and worldwide exploration. For a deeper dive into his journey and background, visit the About page. For inquiries and collaborations, please reach out through the Contact page. You can also follow him on Facebook.

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Gordon Dunn

Friday 30th of July 2021

#1 is choose parts that do NOT need adjustments or tinkering. Set and forget for your 4,000 mile tour. >> Choose a frame with a little TT slope. NOT 6", that reduces bottle space to nothing and makes rack mounting way lame. >> Use a swept handlebar. ALL the comfort you can imagine, hands AND torso. Drops are NOT better in any way. There is NO such thing as a FLAT bar. WTF. Call them straight bars. >> For front hub, SA XL-FDD dyno DRUM brake. My first one has done 26,000 miles+ including 8,100 miles on 2 tours. ZERO adjustment or worries in ANY weather. Now on it's 3rd bike. One bearing went at 17,000 miles. My bike was 120 lbs both tours. LOL. >> ROHLOFF14, set and forget perfected. Mine has 17,700 miles now. Gets BETTER and quieter with age. Gear spacing is 100% PERFECT. I have had it geared way higher than anybody. First tour was too high at 48/ 16T. Second tour it was better 46/ 16T. I still walked some hills, way less work and gives my ass a rest. 3.2 vs 4.2 mph is not much diff. Only my lock broke a spoke. I have a CF DIY chaincase. Not perfect, because alu cranks force a stupidly big hole in the case. And then I finally got smart and left the original grease on the chain.

And anyway, 3x9 derailleurs do NOT have 27 gears, more like the same 14, but unevenly spaced and very randomly accessed. LOL. I wouldn't have left home with such finicky CRAP. They are NOT more efficient on a heavyweight. Look at any Holland bikes video, 1% are not IGH. LOL.

wheretheroadforks

Saturday 7th of August 2021

There are some good tips here. Thanks for taking the time to write this out.

Allen b Harris

Monday 26th of July 2021

Thanks for the advice! I was faffing around for about a year trying to buy a touring bike in the UK but never quite got around to it. I’m now in Vietnam about to set off in a time pressured trip to India (through Laos, Thailand and Myanmar) and I no longer have the same access to the kinds of brands mentioned above(or budgets). I’ve found something called a Windspeed Long Rider touring classic, which is a Chinese brand, and the bike shop is offering a pretty good deal inclusive of accessories. Let’s hope it’s up to the job! Anyone have any experience or knowledge of this bike? Mostly sold only in Asia I think.

I don't know anything about that particular bike but I think those Chinese bikes are hit or miss. It should be pretty easy to find replacement parts in all of those countries though. Whatever happens, I'm sure it will be an awesome adventure.

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• United Kingdom

How To Choose A Touring Bike For Long-Term Cycle Touring

‍I’m going to start by saying this: you could take almost any bike on a long-term cycle tour.

If Ed Pratt can cycle around the world on a unicycle and Tom Allen can ride an upcycled vintage mountain bike across Armenia , then you could (probably) ride the bike out of your shed.

But then, you need to wonder whether that bike really is fit for purpose. If there’s one thing you need if you want to travel by bike for a long time, it’s comfort. Enjoying your time in the saddle is the only prerequisite to a successful bike trip.

There are also some logistical implications; you want your bike to be fixable no matter where you are in the world. This is especially important for long-term cycle touring; some parts are more globally available than others.

There is also one thing I simply cannot account for, and that is your personal preference and needs. Nevertheless, in this article, I’ve tried my best to think of everything to help you choose the right touring bike for you.

I’m working through the key considerations for choosing a bike for a cycle tour. I will also point you toward the decisions we made for our bikes, which have cycled across twenty-seven (and counting) countries. We’ve also shared our full bike set-up here !

In this article

• Key features of touring bike

Long-term touring with a loaded bike

Credit card touring, touring on the road, off-road touring, custom touring bike, new touring bike, used touring bike, frame composition, wheels and spokes, disc brakes, drop bar shifters, flat bar shifters, your faqs on choosing the right bike for a cycle tour answered, how we chose our touring bikes to cycle around the world.

When we chose our bikes to cycle around the world, we focused on functionality and comfort. Money didn’t really factor in; they would cost what they cost and be durable, reliable, and high-spec.

We were riding loaded to tour over 30 countries over two years. The bikes had a lot of work to do, so we opted for brand-new, custom-built bikes and high quality parts.

I’m telling you this because it’s good to understand the context behind our decisions. Plus, your objectives might be different from ours, especially if budget plays a role in your decision-making or if you’re on a much shorter tour.

It will help if you know what your non-negotiables are when it comes to choosing your bike. If you’re unsure what they are yet, the next two sections will help you.

SEE OUR BIKE SET UP & SPEC

Check out our full bike set up and full specification.

Touring Bike Setup

Key features in touring bikes

Before we dive in, let’s take a quick look at traditional touring bikes and their key features.

• Steel frame for comfort and durability.
• Frame geometry: longer wheelbases and longer chainstays for easier steering and better balance when carrying loads. They also have a more upright riding position for comfort during long rides.
• High gear ratio, so you can ride those hills while loaded.
• Good brakes , so you can stop 30kg+ as it speeds down a hill.
• Wide tires for comfort.

The seven considerations before buying a touring bike

You need to think about seven main considerations before buying a touring bike; let’s walk through each one, list your options, the advantages and disadvantages, and finally, we’ll give you a steer on what we did.

The type of touring you’re doing

Different bikes handle different types of touring. It helps to know how you want to tour before you buy your bike so you can buy a bike that is best suited to that type of tour. For example, if you’re touring with a light load, staying in hotels, and carrying a credit card, you might be able to save money by opting for a cheaper frame.

Let’s look at some touring types and why they’re worth considering.

This means you’re riding with all your kit, tent, kitchen, clothes, tools, etc. This is the type of touring that we generally do.

What you might choose: You’ll likely need a sturdy steel frame to cope with the weight and distance. The steel frame will also make for a comfier ride. A great gear ratio will help you get that heavy load up the bikes.

Credit card touring is generally lighter and faster. You’ll travel between hotels, throw money at problems, and eat out. Sounds pretty sweet, actually! This is the type of cycle touring we did across the Outer Hebrides .

What you might choose: a lighter and less durable frame since the bike will be doing less work. You can save money on the frame if you don’t need to ride loaded.

If you’re touring predominately on roads, then you’re generally riding on minor, well paved roads. You’ll be alongside the cars but on the quieter rides and joining the cycle paths. We almost always tour like this.

What you might choose: a sleek, aesthetic bike. You’ll need to worry less about mud and clearance between mudguards and tires since you won’t be dealing with the mud too often. You can also take thinner tires for this type of touring.

If you’re riding off-road, you’ll likely encounter gravel, mud, and some more technical terrain.

What you might choose: a durable frame to handle the variable surface, wider tires, and more grip. You will want clearance between your tires and mudguard. Otherwise, you’ll end up like me on Gordezi Pass in Georgia; I had to stop every five minutes to pull mud out of my mudguard!

The type of touring we chose: long-term touring with a loaded bike, riding predominately on roads.

2. Secondhand, new, or custom

Whether you buy second-hand, new, or custom, you will likely be persuaded by your budget and/or your commitment to recycling what’s already out there.

The major benefit of a custom bike is that you can get exactly the right fit, and you can meet all your preferences. You’ll have your bike exactly as you want it, from the frame down to the components. Naturally, this is the most expensive option.

Everything will be fresh and new. Your bike will last a long time, which is good peace of mind if you’re traveling long-term. You’ll find your perfect bike faster than secondhand since you have all the options available to you. Plus, you’ll get a warranty if something goes wrong.

The most cost-effective option, but you may need to make some sacrifices since this bike has likely already been fit and spec’d to someone else’s liking; not an issue if you have the same preferences.

If there’s one thing you need to be very conscious about when buying a bike for long-term cycle touring, it’s bike fit. I’ll go into this in more detail later, but comfort is everything. If your bike doesn’t fit correctly, you can cause all sorts of issues like back pain, joint pain, and saddle sore.

Another consideration with a used bike is the wear and tear that it’s already experienced. Before setting off on a tour, it’s a good idea to have the bike checked over by a professional, as riding on a worn-out drive train or brakes will not be very pleasant. If you’re touring outside the “Westernised” world, you will have a difficult time getting hold of good quality components, so it’s a good idea to make sure everything is working and in good condition before setting off.

Second-hand or new, the type of bike we chose: we went with a custom built bike. We were asking our bikes to do a lot of miles (24,000) with a lot of weight (20 - 40kg of luggage.) The bikes needed to be up for the challenge.

3. The frame

You can choose a bike frame for touring based on the type of touring you’re doing while considering your budget.

Traditional touring bikes are made from steel. A steel bike is strong, durable, and comfortable to ride. Steel can absorb shock better than aluminum, for example.

The downside to a steel frame is the weight. With durability comes weight. But, if you’re traveling long-term and riding loaded, this is really what you need.

An alternative to steel is aluminum, which is lighter and a lot cheaper. I did my first bike tour on an aluminum bike; I cycle toured John O’Groats to Land’s End on an 8kg aluminum hybrid. It was absolutely fine and perfect for that type of touring. I was credit card touring with no more than 3kg of luggage.

If you’re traveling long-term and across many countries, think about the worst-case scenario. How would you repair your frame if it were to break? You will always find a way to repair steel; steel can be welded. Aluminum, on the other hand, may not be so easy to repair.

Your frame size is so incredibly important. I’ve already said this, but I’ll say it again: go to a professional and get fitted before you embark on long-term cycle touring.

Even a few millimeters can make such a difference to rider comfort. The last thing you’d want is to set off from home, ride into your sixth country after thousands of miles, and come to the realisation that you can’t handle the discomfort anymore.

A poorly fitted bike can result in back pain, joint pain, or saddle sores. Bike shops can sit you on an adjustable bike and help you get the perfect fit. While you’re there, you can try different saddles and get amazing consultancy from bike touring pros.

Our frames: we opted for a steel frame touring bike. We bought the Genesis Tor De Fer frame set and built the bike. At 6”4, Stew rides the XL Tour De Fer and Zoe, 5”3, rides the S.

4. Wheels, tires, and spokes

The strength of your wheels is crucial when you’re carrying heavy loads. The right wheel composition will prevent broken spokes and other unsavory issues on the road.

Your tires will be dependent on the type of touring that you’re doing. For road touring, we absolutely love the Schwalbe Marathon Plus. Ideal for long-term road touring because they’re durable and puncture-resistant. That said, if you’re riding off-road, you probably want something with more tread.

Look for wheels with at least 32 spokes for better durability. In terms of wheel size, 700c is the standard for road touring, but 26-inch wheels might be preferred for off-road touring or touring in developing countries where 26-inch tires and tubes are more readily available.

When choosing your bike to cycle long-term, consider the type of touring you’re doing and how much of a muddy mess you’re going to end up in.

We do all our bike tours on a Genesis Tour De Fur. It’s perfect for us as we spend a lot of time on the road and out of the mud. But, this bike has much less clearance around the wheels. Since the mudguards sit close to the wheels, if you do end up a muddy stretch of road you’re going to have issues with mud being stuck. The benefit of this design is less drag.

If you’re travelling off-road then bikes like the Surly Long Haul Trucker might be better for you.

Our wheels, tires and spokes: 700s wheels, Schwalbe marathon plus tires and 32 spokes.

The gearing system is very important for touring. Naturally, gearing is going to help you significantly on different terrains and gradients.

Unless you’re riding very light, you’ll likely tour with a triple crankset so you can access some super-low gears. You’ll be so glad you’ve got those granny gears if you end up grinding uphill for a day or two like we did in Georgia and China.

We opted for a 10-speed cassette for even more gear range if you wanted to, you could happily settle for a nine-speed or maybe even eight on the back if you wanted to save a bit of weight. The important thing is to make sure your biggest ring at the back will allow for easy hill climbing.

Our chosen gears for long-term bike touring: we ended up with a 26-toot sprocket at the front and 34 34-tooth sprocket at the back. We’ve got a triple 10-drive train setup.

There are two main types of brakes for touring bikes: rim brakes and disc brakes.

And like most things, brakes cause all sorts of heated debate…

Rim brakes are readily available worldwide and and easier to repair, which are some of the major reasons for making them a popular choice for long-term touring. One thing to consider on a big tour such as a world tour is that rim brakes will cause significant rim wear and may result in the need to replace the rims.

Disc brakes offer better stopping power, especially in wet or muddy conditions. If you’re riding a very heavy bike you might prefer disc brakes for this reason. They may be harder to repair in certain parts of the world.

Our chosen brakes for long-term bike touring: we opted for disc brakes for their stopping power. Haven’t had a problem yet!

Brake shifters

The brake shifters you choose will likely depend on your handlebar setup. For me, comfort is key here. I cycled 13,000 miles with drop bars, then switched to the standard flat bar, and it was the best decision ever.

Drop bar shifters are often selected for their aerodynamic design and range of hand positions. On long rides, you can shift into multiple positions to give your hands, wrists, and shoulders a break. The brake lever is longer so you get more leverage; it’s generally easier to shift.

Flat bar shifters keep you in an upright position for the day. Naturally, this position is less aerodynamic and you’ll be stuck in basically the same position for the whole day. You’ll be changing gears with just your thumb and there’s less leverage.

The brake shifters we chose for long-term touring: our shifters/handlebars are the only thing different about our bikes. Stew rides with drop bars and Shimano 105 shifters whereas Zoe prefers the flat bar.

Choosing the right size bike for touring is really, really important. To be honest, the best thing you can do here is find a professional and have them measure you. Even a few millimetres can make a huge difference in comfort when you’re riding a bike for hours a day.

Yes, you can use any bike for bike touring, but some bikes are more suited to longer-term tours. My first bike tour was John O’Groats to Land’s End, and I did it on an Islabike, the Beinn 29. It was a hybrid bike and perfectly fine for my adventure.

If you’re a beginner to cycle touring, then I highly recommend giving it a go with what you’ve got. If you love it, then you’ll know it’s worth the investment for something a little more sophisticated.

You could cycle tour with a carbon frame, but you’d need to be careful about luggage and weight. I would expect anyone touring on a carbon bike to be riding very light.

The best bike for long-distance biking is the most comfortable bike for you. I know that’s not too helpful, but it does depend on your type of adventure and preference. I’d suggest a steel frame touring bike with a decent gear ratio and disc brakes for touring on roads. We share our full bike touring setup and a guide for beginners.

Some of the key differences between road bikes and touring bikes are the tires, the gearing, and the frame.

Generally, road bikes are designed to be fast and light, so weight is reduced with fewer gears and a lighter frame like aluminium or carbon. Touring bikes are designed to be durable. Touring bikes are commonly steel framed with a better gear ratio, so you can easily manage the hills while loaded. The touring bike generally has wider tires and thicker tires, too.

Touring bikes are generally heavier and kitted out with thicker tires with more tread. A combination of these factors means they’re generally slower. That said, these factors are generally desirable for touring.

No, you definitely don’t have to have a touring bike. In fact, my first tour was completed on a hybrid bike, and I had no issues at all. I still ride that bike now. I’d encourage you to try your first tour on any bike you’ve got. You can always buy a new bike later.

A hybrid bike is not strictly a touring bike, but as the name suggests, a hybrid can be used as a touring bike. I did my first bike tour on a hybrid. It was around 1,000 miles in about two weeks. The hybrid was great for it!

Our touring bikes have a 26-tooth sprocket at the front and 34 34-tooth sprocket at the back. Generally, touring bike gears are designed to give you nice low granny gears so you can grind up the hills when you’re fully loaded. Most touring bikes will have a triple crankset.

Generally, a touring bike will be slower than a road bike, but tourers aren’t generally racing. The touring bike is built to be durable and easier to ride, with extra gears to make the hills and weight easier to manage.

Post written by: Zoe Ashbridge

Ask a question or join the discussion below.

V Useful. Thank you. I’ve bookmarked it so I can keep coming back to it as I get further into the bike choice decision

So glad you found it helpful! Don’t hesitate to reach out if you need anything else.

This was a really helpful article for helping me to decide what type of bike to get for my very first tour (10 day Hebridean Cycle Way!)

I’m so pleased this helped! What bike did you go for?

We cycled the Outer Hebrides two years ago. It wasn’t Hebridean away exactly but I think we did most of it. Here’s the blog if it’s of interest 🙂

A very informative article! I almost went with a derailleur system. In the end, I went for a Rohloff hub and a Gates carbon drive. Very happy with it. For tyre size, I went with 650b x 57mm. It’s a bit slower on the road. But I’m not bothered about that. After all, I won’t be in a rush. 🙂 They will certainly be useful on goat tracks.

Nice! Glad you enjoyed the article! Double glad that you found a set up that works for you!

Hi Zoe All great advice which I mostly agree with. When I retired in 2013 I cycle camped from top to bottom of NZ .From Cape Reinga on North Island down to Bluff at the lower end of South Island. It was an awesome trip. I took my 1997 Dawes with Reynolds steel frame. I changed it to flat bars and with a new rear cassette and a super low granny gear for riding over the Southern Alps. I also rode Schwalbe Marathon Plus and only encountered one puncture caused by a No 8 screw. It not only punctured the tube but ruined the tyre. Amazingly the nearest bike store about 100k away in Blenheim had an exact replacement in stock. Hitched a ride there and back with my wheel. Still riding multi day camping trips in UK at the age of 77. May the wind always be at your back! Cheers Ben

I love this comment, Ben! I’m glad you mostly agreed! I am totally with you on granny gears and flat bars haha

Funny you just write about NZ and Blenheim, we’ve not long left there. Fabulous trip.

Love to hear that you’re still touring now, aged 77! That’s something for us to aim for! Where abouts in the UK are you? We’re from Shropshire.

Interesting read and great project ! Thanks for sharing.

Thank you for commenting, John! Really glad someone enjoyed this one, we’ve been meaning to get it live forever!

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Rigid Steel Mountain Bikes (The Best Off-road Touring Bikes)

When it comes to backcountry touring, we love fully rigid steel mountain bikes with flat bars and big tires. These bikes are inherently simple, robust, and easy to maintain. They're also capable, confidence-inspiring, and comfortable off-road explorers. Plus, they encourage a state of mind that's conducive to discovery rather than simple mile crunching, which is what bikepacking is all about. Find over 40 bikes that fit this category and learn about the criteria we used to select them here...

Updated October, 2023 (originally published January, 2019)

In our opinion, fully rigid steel mountain bikes—especially those with plus-sized tires—have inherited the crown of the first ATBs (All Terrain Bikes), offering sure-footed traction and an adventurous spirit. They’re the updated essence of the original 1980s mountain bikes, and like their forebears, are robust enough to be around 20 years from now. Rigid bikes aren’t the fastest or lightest in the world, but they’re amongst the most fun and capable for the money.

Plus Tire Heyday

If you’re new to bikepacking and wondering what we’re talking about when we reference plus-size bikes, it’s those that have ample clearance for tires between 2.8 and 3.25″ on suitable rims, whether they’re 26″, 27.5″, or 29″ in diameter. The heyday of plus bikes and tires has come and gone, but we think they remain ideal for a broad range of bikepacking pursuits.

Surly introduced this supersized tire width in 2012 with the 29+ Krampus. Since then, it’s been championed by a number of manufacturers in a variety of rim sizes. As for our penchant for ferrous frame materials, whilst we’re fully aware that many riders are perfectly happy touring on aluminum bikes, we appreciate chromoly (or steel, in common parlance) because it’s capable of surviving the odd ding and knock, whether you’re riding it, boxing it for a flight, or transporting it on the roof of a bus. It’s also less prone to fatigue and easy to repair, making it a perfect material for backcountry exploits.

Lastly, plus-size tires lend themselves very well to tubeless setups . The large volume allows you to run lower tire pressures than you might otherwise, adding even more grip and comfort to mixed-terrain touring and trail riding. Setting them up without inner tubes eliminates the risk of a pinch flat, but watch out for rim strikes.

Where to Use Plus tires on Steel Mountain Bikes

What kind of bikepacking trip benefits from a plus bike? Many mixed-terrain, backcountry routes are plus bike-friendly, especially if you’re running a fully rigid setup and/or you’re new to off-road touring. Whilst these routes may be perfectly rideable on tires with less volume, plus-size tires add undoubted confidence and comfort to your off-road riding. The rougher the riding, the more helpful large-volume tires will be.

Here are several criteria that are important to note when looking into these bikes:

Plus Tire Clearance

The majority of the bikes in our list can comfortably clear a 2.8”- 3” tire, on rims between 30-50mm width, be it a 26, 27.5, or 29er in diameter. A large volume tire on a wide rim offers excellent traction and confidence, which makes up for its extra weight, especially when touring off road on a fully rigid setup.

Steel Mountain Bikes

Most of these bikes are ‘mountain bikes’ at heart, with geometries designed for flat handlebars. Some are more suited to technical trails than others, which we’ve mentioned in our overviews. Similarly, some have geometries suitable for a suspension fork, whilst others are rigid specific. There are a few models, particularly framesets, that we’ve seen set up with drops or flat bars, (like the Piolet, Fargo, and Evasion), so we’ve added those in too.

Steel is Real

Almost all these bikes use chromoly frames and forks, and feature the kind of mounting points you’d expect from an off-road touring bike, like eyelets on the fork and downtube, or provision for front and rear racks. Yes, you can make do without, but with so many options on the market, it makes sense to hone in on those that are bikepacking-friendly.

Confused about all our talk of plus sizes and wheel diameters? Be sure to scroll down below the lineup of fully rigid steel mountain bikes for our breakdown of which wheel size will work best for your needs.

List of Rigid Steel Mountain Bikes

There are a few things to note about our list of rigid steel plus bikes. The factors that we found particularly important to consider are listed in the highlights (in red). These include the maximum tire size (and to the best of our knowledge, its wide trail equivalent), and the dropout width specs. In addition, note the bottom bracket spec. Bottom bracket drop is relevant to pedal clearance, but don’t forget to account for wheels and tires of different diameters when you compare them. Also, we reference whether it’s threaded or PressFit (PF)—an important factor for many. Click each list item to expand the details and see a larger photo. Lists are displayed in alphabetical order, with bikes we’ve tested grouped at top (represented with a hexagonal “T” icon):

Bombtrack Beyond+

• Frame/Fork: Steel/Steel & Carbon
• Max Tire Size: 29 x 3.0"
• Bottom bracket: 73mm Threaded
• Dropouts (F/R): 15 x 110 / 12 x 148mm
• BB drop: 65mm

The Beyond+ is now only offered in a single version, but our review and what we’ve shared below remains accurate.

We tested the Beyond+ 2 and were impressed. It’s a light, sharp-handling, fully rigid hardtail with all the bikepacking touches you’d expect from a company that’s passionate about adventure. Take away the carbon fork and GX drivetrain and you get the Beyond +1, which sports the same frame and geo, albeit with a different finish, a rigid steel fork, and a cheaper price tag. Like all good bikepacking rigs, it features provisions for fork bags and rear racks. And, should you want to run front suspension, a 120mm fork with 25% sag keeps the geometry the same. Or, slot in a 130mm fork with 30%, slackening it out a touch for big trail descents. Both the carbon fork and the steel for have eyelets for water bottles and cargo cages.

You can also see more images of the Beyond +1 in Franzi Wernsing’s Rider and Rig .

• Price: $1999 (Complete)
• Place of Manufacture: Taiwan
• Manufacturer's Details: Link

Brother Big Bro

• Frame/Fork: Steel/steel
• Max Tire Size: 27.5 x 3” / 29 x 2.6"
• Bottom Bracket: 73mm Threaded
• Dropouts (F/R): 12 x 148 / 15 x 110mm
• BB Drop: 60mm

We’re big fans of the Brother Cycles Big Bro. It’s simple, classic, and sensibly specced. It is based around a 4130 Chromoly Steel frame, a matching rigid fork, 73mm threaded bottom bracket, and has full-length external cables. It was updated in 2022 with boost hub spacing, clearance for big 27.5 x 3″ or 29 x 2.6″ tires, lots of mounting points, and comes in four sizes as both a complete build or as a frame only.

• Price: £725 (frame Only)

Crust Scapegoat

• Frame/Fork: Steel/Steel
• Max Tire size: 26 x 3.8 or 29 x 3.0"
• BB drop: 58mm

The Scapegoat is Crust’s expedition bike. It features a low Q-Factor, go-anywhere design that fits about any tire. A tight rear end and longish top tube mean its meant for trails, yet is has a lot of traits that are suitable for multi-year expeditions. Unlike many fat bikes out there (although its not just a fat bike), the Scapegoat sports a 73mm Bottom Bracket shell, which allows a comfortable 170mm Q-Factor.

The rocker dropouts mean you can run 26 × 3.8” tires, 650b/27.5 x 3.8″ tires, or full 29+ rubber. The frame is 4130 double butted Chromoly. What makes it most interesting is its non-suspension corrected fork. It features 15 x 110mm front dropouts, 12 x 148mm rear dropouts, and is loaded with mounts. Check out our long-term review here .

• Price: $1175 (Frameset)

Jones Plus LWB

• Frame/Fork: Steel/Steel (or ti Truss)
• Max Tire Size: 29 x 3.25"
• Bottom Bracket: 68mm Threaded Eccentric
• Dropouts (F/R): 15 x 150mm / 12 x 148mm
• BB drop: 88mm

When we tested the rigid-specific Jones Plus (now rebranded LWB), we were blown away by its trail manners; we never expected a bike that was so upright and comfortable to ride could also be so capable on technical singletrack. The latest iteration features some tweaks; there’s now provision for a rear rack and the rear hub is Boost-spaced (rather than 135QR), which helps clearances with 1x drivetrains and wider plus tires. As per all of Jones’ bikes, all forks can be shod with 26 x 4.3” fat tires if you want some extra “suspension” to your ride. And, in addition to the steel and Ti truss options, there’s now a more user-friendly steel unicrown fork, with the exact same offset and dimensions. Note that the BB drop is offset by the ability to rotate the eccentric bottom bracket by as much as 12mm and the fact that all Jones bikes are specced with cranks 5mm shorter than usual. There are two sizes and a number of colors to choose from. We tested the steel diamond frame, but there are also spaceframes and titanium options too.

Priced below with truss fork. You can also purchase a frameset for $1,100 with a Steel Diamond frame with unicrown fork (most economical build) or with a steel truss fork for £1,350. Top of the line is the Ti spaceframe and truss fork, which goes for $4,550.

• Price: $1375 (Frame/Truss Fork)

Jones Plus SWB + SWB Complete

• Frame/Fork: Steel/Steel (or ti truss)
• Max Tire Size: 27.5 x 3.25”
• Dropouts (F/R): 15 x 100 / 12 x 148mm

Replacing the classic Jones mountain bike of old, the rigid-specific SWB offers full 27.5+ clearances (with ample room for 29 x 2.6” too) and a slightly rejigged, longer rear end. Note then that Short Wheel Base is a relative term – the stays are still some 449mm in length. The premium-priced, custom-specced version and the newer, more affordable SWB Complete have the exact same geometry and are both made in Taiwan, though the latter uses non-heat-treated tubing and loses the eccentric bottom bracket, which is useful for in-the-field drivetrain repairs and adjusting BB height. Still, at $1,800, we can’t fault the SWB Complete for price. It has all the Jones magic for a much more inclusive cost than we’ve seen before, even if the gearing (22-83″) is a little on the low side for loaded, mountainous bikepacking, and the tires aren’t tubeless ready. There’s room for a 27.5 x 3.8” tire if you want extra volume up front, whether you’re running the truss fork (available in steel or Ti) or the SWB Complete’s unicrown version. And, there’s plenty of space for 3.25” tires in the back. Read our full release with specs here .

• Price: $1800 (Complete)

Kona Unit X

• Max Tire Size: 27.5 X 3.0″ / 29 X 2.8″
• Dropouts (F/R): 15 X 110MM / 12 X 148MM

The Kona Unit X was completely revamped in 2020, and these changes hold true today. It’s now built around 29 x 2.6″ tires, boost hub spacing (148 x 12mm rear and 110 x 15mm front), and its geometry was updated to follow modern trail bike trends. The frame has two standard bottle mounts in the main triangle, downtube mounts, and triple pack mounts on the fork legs. It also has front and rear rack mounts and fender bosses for even more versatility. Logan was so impressed with the 2020 Kona Unit X that it was our top pick for our 2020 Bikepacking Awards . Make sure read our full review here .

• Price: $1599 (Complete)

Nordest Sardinha

• Max Tire Size: 27.5 x 3.0″ / 29 x 2.6″
• Dropouts (F/R): 110 x 15mm / 148 x 12mm
• BB drop : 60mm

The Nordest Sardinha features a Taiwanese-made, double-butted CRMO 4130 frame with clearance for 27.5 x 3.0″ or 29 x 2.6″ tires. It’s available in sizes S, M/L, and L, fitting riders from 168-193cm (5’6″-6’4″). The frame gets a threaded bottom bracket, 44mm head tube for a straight or tapered steerer, and a welded plate chainstay yoke to allow for plenty of tire and chainring clearance. It also has triple bottle mounts on both the top and bottom of the down tube, as well as a pair on the seat tube. Nordest sells the Sardinha as a frame only or as a “kit” that includes a matching rigid chromoly fork and headset. Both come in yellow with blue and red fish-themed graphical icons and phrases such as “Base Camp” and “Vital Support.” Read Logan’s review here .

• Price: €729 (Frame)

Otso Fenrir

• Frame: Titanium/Stainless
• Max Tire Size: 29 x 2.6"
• Dropouts (F/R): 15 x 110mm / 12 x 148mm

Taking its name from a giant wolf in Norse mythology that was destined to devour the sun, the Otso Fenrir has a lot to live up to. But Otso claims it’s their most versatile rig to date. The Otso Fenrir is built around a custom-butted stainless steel or titanium frame with loads of mounts and adjustability, and according to Otso, it’s built for bikepacking on rides like the Tour Divide or any other mixed terrain route you might dream up. What makes it unique is a geometry designed for use with either drop bars or MTB flat bars. In short, this means it has a longer reach than most drop bikes, and a shorter reach and higher stack than most mountain bikes.

From Logan’s review : “As far as bikepacking, The Otso Fenrir has everything you might need as far as mounts, provisions, frame bag space, and long-ride comfort. It’s pegged squarely at big mixed terrain routes like the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route, the Tian Shan Traverse, Baja Divide, NMORR, or any number of rides that combine singletrack with all forms of dirt roads. It doesn’t hesitate on any terrain, and I wouldn’t hesitate to take it on any given bikepacking trip.”

• Price: $2550 (Stainless Frameset)

Panorama Taiga

• Frame/Fork: Steel/Carbon
• Max Tire Size: 29 x 2.8" / 27.5 x 3.0"
• BB Drop: 65mm

The Panorama Taïga is based around a Reynolds 725 steel frame, 29 x 2.8″ tire clearance, lots of mounting points, and can be set up with a rigid or suspension fork. The Taïga was updated in 2023, and it addresses some of the minor issues we had with the original version. On the geometry front, the bottom bracket has been lowered by 5mm, and the stack/reach numbers have also increased slightly. Complete builds are now specced with size-specific dropper post lengths, 32-spoke wheels from Hunt, and the rigid fork comes stock, but suspension forks are available upon request. The Taïga is available as a frame only, frameset, complete build, and with a Rohloff hub. Check out Miles’ review here .

• Price: $1649 (Frame / Fork)

Surly Bridge Club

• Max Tire Size: 27.5 x 2.8”
• Dropouts (F/R): 100QR/10 x 138mm "Gnot Boost" for 135 or 142mm

It’s perhaps no surprise to see so many Surlys in this list, as the plus size tire was their crazy (good) idea in the first place! The Bridge Club, however, is a little different. It comes specced with 2.4s on 29mm rims. But, there’s ample clearance for 2.8s (which mount up nicely on the rims provided). The price point is very inclusive too; $1499 gets you a simple and well considered spec list that will suit newby bikepackers or those who carry extra payloads, given the low gearing and double chainring. Granted, there’s not as many fork barnacles as the likes of the Ogre, Troll, and ECR. But that doesn’t mean Surly have skimped out either, as there still provision for rack mounts and triple-boss cages. A Gnot-boost-style dropout means you can run a number of QR hub standards too, which could come in handy when travelling into the reaches of the globe. Read our review here .

• Price: $1499 (Complete)

Surly Karate Monkey

• Max Tire Size: 27.5 x 3”
• Dropouts (F/R): 15 x 110mm / “Gnot Boost” 135, 142, or 148mm
• BB drop: 55mm

The Surly Karate Monkey is a classic hardtail, reborn in its latest incarnation to take a longer fork (up to 140mm) and plus tires as standard. A favorite of both Miles Arbour and Michael Dammer ( see our Rider and Rig from the Colorado Trail ), the KM is famous for being a tough-as-nails hardail that makes up for it’s relatively heavy frame weight with its fun, confident, and cheeky disposition. In fully rigid form, the Surly Karate Monkey promises a great blend of low maintenance components and invigorating handling at a reasonable price tag.

• Price: $1849 (Rigid Complete)

Surly Krampus

• Dropouts (F/R): 15 x 110 / 12 x 142/148mm

The Surly Krampus started it all. The first plus tire bike, the first 29+ bike, and arguably the first bike that drew the term “bikepacking bike.” Why? Although the comparable bikepacking-specific Surly ECR can do it all, between the two, the Krampus dominates steep rooty singletrack, rock gardens, and technical conditions. It’s a trail bike at heart. The high bottom bracket and slack geometry make it a thrill ride, and honestly one of the most fun, confidence inspiring bikes you’ll come across. The best analogy is that it’s comparable to being a big kid on a grown up BMX bike, one that can plow over anything. Even loaded with a frame bag, seat bag, and handlebar luggage, it performs well and feels solid and confident. If you are waffling over other bikes, and enjoy trail riding as much as you do bikepacking, the Krampus is a must-ride.

• Max Tire Size: 27.5 x 3” or 29 x 2.6”
• Dropouts (F/R): 100QR/145mm "Gnot-Boost"
• BB drop: 68mm

The Surly Ogre is one of our favourite do-it-all framesets, though note that as a complete bike, it comes with 29 x 2.5” tires, so it’s not a plus bike out of the box. There’s a lot to like: the Ogre is rigid specific so sports a large framebag, the dropout is compatible with a Rohloff hub of you so choose, and aside from a full complement of rack mounts, there are no less than four sets of triple-pack mounts on the fork, facing both forward and aft. We should point out that the bike featured in our review isn’t quite current; new frames no longer feature canti studs, making the bike disc-specific and more plus-size friendly, as it’s easier to install and remove wheels.

• Price: $1699 (Complete)

Tout Terrain Outback

• Max Tire Size: 27.5 x 3” / 29 x 2.3”
• Dropouts (F/R): 15 x 110 / 12 x 142mm

Hailing from Germany, Tout Terrain’s frames are made in Taiwan but painted and assembled in Germany. Veterans of the traditional bike touring world and well versed in a variety of enclosed drivetrains, Tout Terrain have embraced the long distance durability of the Pinion C12 system for the Outback, their first foray into the bikepacking realm. Having had some time with this bike in the French Alps, we can vouch for its singletrack prowess and its build quality. We love the geometry too; it’s a little slacker than some, so suits big mountain descents, and sports a steepish seat angle that really helps with climbing. Each bike is built to spec, from a choice of high end components. As such, it can be purchased with both a rigid carbon fork (complete with triple boss cargo/water bottle eyelets) or with a 120mm suspension fork for more dedicated trail use. Yes, technically this isn’t a fully rigid steel bike, but it’s close!

• Price: €4690
• Place of Manufacture: Taiwan/Germany

Tumbleweed Prospector

• Max Tire Size: 26 x 4.0" / 29 x 3.0"
• Bottom Bracket: 73mm Custom EBB
• Dropouts (F/R): 100 QR or 110 thru / 135mm QR

The Tumbleweed Prospector is a unique do-it-all expedition bike made specifically for bikepacking and dirt-road touring. The Prospector’s headline feature is a custom yoke designed to allow its steel, symmetrical frame accommodate fat tires up to 4″ wide with a standard-width, über reliable Rohloff Speedhub. Translation? Without need for an extra-wide bottom bracket shell, there’s no increase in the distance between the pedals and the resulting Q Factor, a fat bike trait that’s irksome to many.

However, there’s more to the Prospector than that. For those plus-tires, the prospector has a custom eccentric Bottom Bracket allowing a half an inch of bottom bracket height adjustability (12mm), in turn making it equally as suitable for 29+ and 27.5+ tires. The frame is built around a standard 135mm dropout for easy-to-source hubs as well as a 100mm QR fork (or 110mm with an optional thru-axle fork). The frame also features a suspension-corrected geometry. And, it has as all the necessary braze-ons for racks, panniers, and a myriad of water bottles. All of which makes for a very versatile bike, one that Tumbleweed promotes as a rugged, adaptable, backcountry explorer, as well as a fun rig to spin around the local trails.

To learn more, find two Rider and Rigs on this site featuring the Prospector, one with filmmaker Jay Ritchey set up 27.5+, and one with world traveller Pepper Cook . Also, read the pre-launch QA with founder Daniel Malloy .

• Price: $2900 (Frameset/Rohloff Kit)

Bantam Bicycles Travelall

• Max Tire Size: 27.5 x 2.4"
• Dropouts (F/R): 12 x 100mm / 12 x 142mm

Th Bantam Bicycles Travelall is their take on the “best bikepacking/trekking/go anywhere do anything bike possible.” It’s based around a custom-sized TIG welded steel frame, an integrated lighting system, geometry and handling optimized for bikepacking and loaded riding, and a suggested base build or your choice of a completely custom setup. The Travelall fits 27.5 x 2.4″ tires with fenders, has external cable routing, three bottle mounts, rack and fender mounts, and a copper Bantam head badge.

Each Travelall comes equipped with a custom front rack called the Travelrack. According to Bantam, they’ve found a well-designed front rack to be lighter and more versatile than some handlebar bag setups, so they’ve equipped theirs with Wald basket mounts, triple bosses for cargo cages, and a headlight mount. Bantam has partnered with Portland-based bag maker Lords Luggage on a bolt-on, roll-top frame bag for each Travelall, made from durable waxed cotton canvas in a color complementary to your frameset color. See more of the Travellall from our MADE Bike Show coverage here .

• Price: $2950 (Frame/Fork/Rack/Bags)
• Place of Manufacture: USA

Bassi Coyote

• Max Tire Size: 27.5 x 3.0"
• BB Drop: 50mm

The Bassi Coyote is based around a 4130 Chromoly steel frame, a matching rigid fork, and Boost thru-axles. There are three-pack mounts on the fork legs and under the downtube, two standard bottle mounts, and rear rack mounts. The frame is set up with sliding dropouts for singlespeed and geared setups, and the frame is suspension corrected to accept 120mm forks. It has clearance for 27.5 x 3.0″ or 29 x 2.4″ tires, dropper post routing, and lovely frame graphics and colors. Read our press release here .

• Price: $1350CAD (Frame / Fork)

Bombtrack Beyond+ ADV

• Bottom Bracket: 73mm threaded
• BB drop: 70mm

The ADV is the bigger sibling of the Beyond+. Technically, it shouldn’t be in our listing, as it’s not a fully rigid steel bike, but, the carbon fork comes with triple eyelets for cargo cages, and you could also swap it out for an aftermarket rigid fork if you prefer the idea of traveling with steel over carbon. This aside, it fits the criteria of an overland explorer perfectly. With its 1×12 Eagle GX cassette, it boasts a wide gear range, and it also has WTB tubeless-ready rims and our favourite Ranger Tough tires. It comes with the ultra comfortable Jones Loop H-Bar too. This is a bike you could get rowdy on, too; it’s suspension corrected for a 120mm fork, set up with 25% sage, or you can even push it to 130mm with 30%.

• Price: €2699

Breezer Thunder

• Max Tire Size: 29 x 2.95"
• Bottom Bracket: BSA Threaded
• BB Drop: 70mm

The Breezer Thunder is a fully rigid steel mountain bike with a reasonable price tag and some pretty appealing features for bikepacking. It’s built up around a Chromoly steel frame and fork, boost hub spacing and thru-axles, external cable routing (as well as internal dropper post routing), and has clearance for tires up to 29 x 2.95” wide. The frame itself is fully kitted out with mounting options, including rack and fenders, standard bottle mounts, triple pack mounts on the fork legs and the seat stays, plus additional bosses on the top tube and under the downtube.

• Price: $1499

Crust Evasion

• Max Tire Size: 27.5 x 2.8" or 26 x 3.0"
• Dropouts (F/R): 12 x 100mm / 12 x 148mm (or 135mm QR)

The Crust Evasion is designed around 26+ (up to 26 x 3″) tires on 45mm rims, but it’s just as happy on a 650B tire (27.5″) up to x 2.8″ wide. This bike is designed for dirt touring and bikepacking and touted as “comfortable for the long haul but fast and nimble while still being ready for some pretty technical/rough riding.” It’s got plenty of rack mounts and bottle bosses, and rocker-style dropouts to either run a 148mm thru-axle rear or 135mm QR, single speed or Rolloff. The bi-plane front fork features a 100mm x 12mm thru axle.

Genesis Longitude

• Max Tire Size: 27.5 x 3” / 29 x 2.4”
• Dropouts (F/R): 100QR/130QR

Over in the UK, Genesis have built up an enviable reputation for putting together very capable bikes that don’t break the bank. The rigid-specific Longitude is no exception. It offers a great spec for the price, including a WTB tubeless-ready wheelset, a sensible Deore double chainset for a broad spread of gears suited to touring and bikepacking, and reliable if basic Shimano Alivio hydraulic brakes. Genesis even throw in a couple of Gorilla Cages to get you started. If you’re in the UK, this one is hard to beat on price.

• Price: £1499

Hunt Bikes 29+

• Frame/fork: Steel/Steel
• Bottom Bracket: PF30 PressFit
• Dropouts (F/R): 15 x 100mm / 12 x 142mm
• BB Drop: 62mm

We’ve long admired Hunt’s frames from afar, elegant as they are. Hunt is based in Australia, but framesets can be shipped worldwide. Designed to accommodate both 29” and 29+ tires, these bikepacking-orientated framesets come in three sizes and two colors: gloss black and brushed chrome. As you’d expect from a company enamoured by bikepacking ( see the Hunt 1000 event that they put on across the Australian Alps), there’s no shortage of bag and water bottle mounts. Note though that there’s no provision for racks, as by their own admission, they much prefer soft bags, and the bottom bracket is press fit rather than threaded.

• Price: $1543 (Frameset)

Jones LWB HD/E Complete

• Max tire: 29 x 3.25
• Droupouts F/R: 15 x 150m / 12 / 148mm
• Bottom Bracket : 68mm threaded

The Jones LWB HD/E is the latest addition to the Jones range. At first glance, it looks similar to the Jones LWB Complete. However, closer inspection reveals a very different beast. Although the reach, angles, and all-important fork offset remain the same, the HD/E sports 1in longer seats stays… effectively making it a Jones XLWB!

These long stays free up more space for big panniers, help keep the bike stable under heavy loads, and prevents the front from lifting on heavy climbs. In addition, the clue is in the name: Heavy Duty / Electric. This bike uses a heavier gauge of head-treated tubing to ensure it can handle heavy heavy loads, or even an e-bike conversion kit, like a Bafang. The longer wheelbase creates enough space to fit one without any issues.

A burly bike needs burly wheels. Hoops are Jones’ own. They’re 50mm wide and the rims have 36 holes, abd are double walled and eyeletted. They’re tubeless-ready too, using Jones’ own Shraeder kit. In other regards, this bike is similar to the Jones LWB Complete, as seen here . The LWB HD/E is available as frame only, and you can mix and match with a unicrown or truss fork.

We did notice that the frame looses eyelets under the downtube, which is disappointing. Nor are there any on the seat tube due to the bend, though the upper side of the downtube does at least have provision for two water bottles, or a cargo cage and a water bottle cage.

• Price: $2475

MONē La Roca

• BB drop : 34mm

The La Roca is Cjell Mone’s signature plus hardtail featuring a hand-brazed, custom-butted frame hardened 4130 chromoly tubeset and a unique, tuneable rear-end that allows a wide range of chainstay lengths depending on your wheel choice. 27.5 x 2.5″ minions will allow you to tuck into a super-short 405mm cheinstay length if you want to slam it. Or you can bump that number to a 430mm and run full 3.0″ 29+ tires.

As shown here, La Roca is offered with a 120mm suspension-corrected biplane fork with 2x Anything cage mounts (four total on the frame). The Mone La Roca also has fender mounts and low rider rack mounts.

• Price: $1325 (Frameset (with fork))

• Max Tire Size: 29 x 2.6″ / 27.5 x 2.8″
• Bottom Bracket: 68mm Threaded
• BB Drop: 55mm

Monē is calling the new klunker frame the SB2, short for Small Batch Straight Bar, and it features the twin top tubes reminiscent of the klunkers of yesteryear. Cjell is also tipping the hat with the coaster specific-ish brake allowances, which is a very Monē choice. The frames feature a mix of butted and straight-gauge tubing for a claimed sub-five-pound weight. For reference, Cjell tells us this is around half of what an old Schwinn frame weighs. The fork is also SB2 coaster-specific, featuring skinny 7/8″ chromoly blades setup as a unicrown for a ride quality Cjell describes as “maximum supple.” We’re told the fork is optimised for no front brake, which sounds a little sketchy because it is. Monē is also offering a breadtruck-brazed version of their bi-plane fork for folks who want to run disc front and rear. Read more here .

• Price: $2150 (Frame + Fork)

Quirk Cycles Overland

• Max Tire Size: 29 x 2.4″ / 27.5 x 2.6″
• Bottom Bracket: PF30 / T47

The Quirk Cycles Overland is their take on a do-everything, go-anywhere bikepacking rig, which first debuted at the 2020 Atlas Mountain Race. According to Quirk, “The Overland is designed for those wanting to take their off-road adventures to the next level. Our aim was to run big tyres, increase our cargo-carrying capacity but still have a frame that is fast and fun to ride unloaded.”

While the overall package remains the same, including custom geometry, Quirk Custom Select tubing, and being handmade in Quirk’s London-based shop, there are some interesting updates launched in Spring 2023 worth noting. Quirk has introduced 3D-printed seat tube cluster and dropouts, replacing the previous adjustable version that wasn’t necessary for their customers. Their integrated bolt-on Rack ‘N’ Roll has received some laser-cut mounting plates and custom-machined washers and bolts. The frame is now suspension-corrected for a 100mm travel fork so folks can swap out the steel fork out when some extra cushion is needed.

All other details remain the same, including clearance for 29 x 2.4″ / 27.5 x 2.6″ tires (although customers have fit larger), front and rear internal dynamo routing, and lots of mounts for cages and other gear. The Overland features boost hub spacing, a custom unicrown cargo fork, and framebag mounts within the main triangle. For those after a custom bag, Quirk has partnered with our friends at Wizard Works for the ultimate custom experience. Read the press release here .

• Price: £4200 (Frameset)
• Place of Manufacture: London

Rivendell Gus Boots Willsen

• Max Tire Size: 27.5 x 2.6"
• Dropouts (F/R): 100 x 135mm QR

From Rivendell: “The Gus Boots-Willsen is our most versatile Hillibike. It weighs a little more than the Susie/Wolbis because the tubes are fatter and stronger, but there’s no dumb weight. For Hillibikers of all weights and loads to 60lbs. The Boots rides light and tracks well, even on trails more suited to the noble jackass.” It has a long wheelbase, high handlebars, and can clear tires up to 2.6″ wide. While it might look like a cruiser, the Gus has some serious off-road bikepacking potential.

• Price: $2000 (Frame + Fork)

Shand Bahookie

• Bottom Bracket: PF30 Pressfit
• Dropouts (F/R): 135×10MM / 142×12MM

The Shand Bahookie is a do-it-all mountain bike. It features a hand-built Reynolds 631 steel frame designed around 29er or 650B+ wheels and a rigid or 120mm travel fork. It looks ideal for for bikepacking, adventure racing, bashing round local trails, or heading out for a long day in the hills. It’s also available with a Rohloff for those looking for a bomb-proof setup.

• Price: £3595

• Bottom Bracket: Eccentric
• DROPOUTS (F/R): 135×10mm / 142×12mm
• BB Drop: 72mm

The Shand Tam is an Rohloff equipped, expedition bike that’s designed to be comfortable and extremely capable. It’s built up around a Reynolds 853/Dedaccia steel frame, has modular dropouts to accept singelspeed and geared drivetrains, and comes equipped with Shand’s very own steel fork with anything cage mounts and internal dynamo wiring. The Tam has front/rear rack and fender mounts, an eccentric bottom bracket, and the standard complete build is specced with hydraulic brakes, WTB Nano tires, and a swept back Ritchey Kyote bar.

• Price: £4645

SimWorks Doppo MTB

• FRAME/FORK: Steel/Steel
• MAX TIRE SIZE: 27.5 X 2.8″ OR 29 X 2.4″
• BOTTOM BRACKET: 73mm Threaded
• DROPOUTS (F/R): 110 X 15MM / 148 X 12MM
• BB DROP: 60mm

The SimWorks Doppo MTB is made from Tange Chromoly Steel tubing and can be setup rigid with the included steel fork or with your favourite 120mm travel suspension fork. The frame comes kitted out with two standard bottle mounts, triple pack mounts under the downtube and on the fork legs. It has clearance for both 27.5 x 2.8″ and 29 x 2.4″ tires, uses boost hub spacing, front and rear thru-axles, and a standard 30.9mm seatpost with internal dropper post routing.

Read the full press release here .

• Price: $1880 (Framset)
• Place of Manufacture: Japan

Singular Swift

• BB Drop: 75mm

The Swift was first launched back in 2006, when UK-based Singular Cycles was getting started and 29″ mountain bikes were just becoming mainstream. The Singular Cycles Swift is now in its fifth iteration, which they describe as a “suspension capable do-it-all off-road machine.”

The Swift MK5 has been updated with a tapered headtube for suspension fork compatibility, thru axles front and rear, internal dropper post cable routing, all while retaining the ride quality and handling it’s known for. The Swift is built up around Taiwan-made custom drawn triple butted 4130 Chromoly steel tubing, has a 73mm BSA threaded bottom bracket, boost hub spacing, clearance for 29 x 3.0″ tires, and all sizes get bottle mounts on the seat tube, down tube, and under the down tube.

The matching Swift fork has a 483mm axle-to-crown (100mm suspension corrected), triple pack mounts, rack and fender mounts, and internal dynamo routing. The frame has dropper post routing, bolt-on cable guides on underside of down tube, and it uses post-mount brakes front and back. It comes in three sizes and one color option.

• Price: $1170 (Frameset)

Soma Jawbone

• Max Tire Size: 29 x 2.25″ and 27.5 x 2.6″

The Soma Jawbone is built on a Tange Prestige heat-treated double-butted CrMo steel frame with clearance for up to 29 x 2.25″ and 27.5 x 2.6″ tires (with good mud clearance). The frame is designed to have more stability while loaded thanks to a longer wheelbase and slightly stiffer design. It’s also outfitted with plenty of mounts for packing gear. There are two variations on the frame: the A-type with thru-axles and a unique lugged fork, and the B-type with sliding dropouts and a unicrown fork. Learn more here .

• Price: $769 (B-Type Frame + Fork)

Sour Bad Granny

• Max Tire Size: 29 x 2.4"
• Bottom Bracket: 68MM BSA ECCENTRIC

The Bad Granny is something quite special from Sour, and it’s a joy to ride. Its companion fork sports two sets of eyelets, light cable routing, and clearance for 29 x 2.4″ tires. The frame is available in sizes M and L. According to Sour, “Usually grandparents have different functions in a child’s development. In this case our Bad Granny is here to remind you that singlespeed, rigid forks, and a laid back geometry is everything you need to have the most fun on a bike. Of course Bad Granny keeps up with the times, derailleur shifting, suspension forks, even internal or external dropper posts comes beside the old-fashioned style…she can handle it all.”

• Price: €1099 (Frame-Only)
• Place of Manufacture: Germany

• Dropouts (F/R): 110x15mm / 148x12mm

The MK6 is the latest iteration of the bike that started it all for Stooge back in 2014. The Stooge MK6 is a classic mix of the Scrambler and the MK4. It has lots of bikepacking potential but doesn’t shy away from rowdy trail rides and big skids. The official wheel size is 29×3 front/29×2.3-2.6 rear, but it also plays nicely with 29 x 2.6″ – 2.8″ and 27.5+.

• Price: £780 (Frame / Fork)

Stooge Scrambler

• Dropouts (F/R): 110X15MM / 148X12MM

First and foremost, the Scrambler is a rigid trail bike, but it also comes with all manner of gear mounts: rack and cage mounts on the biplane fork, three-pack mounts on the fork blades and both sides of the downtube, a pair on the seat tube, rear rack mounts, and half rack mounts for saddlebag supports. Stooge’s pet name for for the bike is the RADventure bike, “an adventure bike you can still get rad on, still take around the old BMX track, but still ride into the sunset on in all-day-comfort with Knocking On Heaven’s Door playing in the background.” Like Stooge’s other bikes, it still has twin top tubes but there’s room for a bigger frame bag.

The Stooge Scrambler will be offered in 18 and a 20″ sizes with effective top tube lengths of 610 and 635mm, respectively. Compared to the MK4, the Scrambler has a slacker 67° head tube angle and is a little shorter overall, which puts the rider in a more upright riding position. As Andy puts it, “Coupled with the short chainstays this will feel really poppy and light on its feet.” Read the full press release here .

Stooge Speedbomb

The Stooge Dirtbomb is part klunker, part modern rigid trail bike. It’s offered in one size, since klunkers are only offered in one size, has clearance for 29+ tires, and uses a eccentric bottom bracket so you can run 27.5+ as well. As Stooge puts, “This slice of steel will take you on a joyride so fantabulously exciting you’ll take every other bike you own and throw them heartily in the skip of eternity…”

• Price: £820 (Frame / Fork)

Veloci Wild Move

• Max Tire Size: 27.5 x 2.6" / 29 x 2.4"
• Dropouts (F/R): 9 x 100mm / 10 x 135mm
• BB Drop: 60-70mm

The Veloci Wild Move is a versatile fully rigid bike that can be loaded up with gear for big trips or stripped down for zipping around local trails. It’s based around double and triple-butted 4130 Chromoly Steel tubing that’s ED coated for corrosion resistance. The fork is finished with triple-pack and rack/fender mounts and has upper eyelets. The frame itself has top tube mounts, multiple mounts inside the main triangle and under the downtube, and can accept a rear rack as well. The rigid fork is 465mm, allowing the use of certain 80mm-130mm travel forks, which are specified on Veloci’s website.

A quick look at the Wild Move’s geometry chart will show a long-ish wheelbase, low bottom bracket, and a generous stack height that should all add up to a comfortable and stable ride quality. The frame has clearance for 27.5 x 2.6″ or 29 x 2.4″ tires, while the fork can clear 27.5 x 3.0″ or 29 x 3.0″.

• Price: $699 (Frame + Fork)

Veloheld Iron

• Frame/Fork: Steel/Steel (or 130mm suspension)
• Max Tire Size: 27.5 x 3 and 29 x 2.35
• BB Drop: 63mm

We don’t know too much about the Veloheld Iron, but from what we can discern from the German website, it looks like a very capable bikepacking rig. The Iron is available as both a rigid build or with a 130mm fork, with all the provisions we know and love – eyelets for Anything Cages on the chromo fork and provision under the downtube for a water bottle too. The stock build looks good, with a SRAM NX Eagle Boost drivetrain and a choice between a 29er wheelset or 27.5+, both tubeless ready. There are four sizes available.

• Price: €2499 (Complete)

Wilde Supertramp

• BB Drop: 66mm

The Wilde Supertramp is handmade in Taiwan through their partnership with the Maxway factory. It’s based around their own Wilde TLC (Tough Light Compliant) Chromoly steel tubing and a matching steel segmented fork. The frame has three pack mounts on the top and bottom of down tube, a bottle boss on seat tube, top tube mounts, fender mounts, internal dropper post routing, full loop cable guides, and clearance for 29 x 2.6″ tires (though it’s optimized for 29 x 2.25″).

As for geometry, Wilde describes the Supertramp as having “comfortable off-road touring geometry,” and they say it’s perfect for an all-rounder. It has a tall stack height, long-ish reach, and works nicely with short stems and heavy front loads. The main triangle is optimized for a big frame bag, and it looks like it offers a capable platform for everyday riding and loaded bikepacking alike. Read the full press release here .

• Price: $1200 (Frameset)

Windover Beacon

• Max Tire Size: 29 x 2.5"
• Bottom Bracket: T47 Threaded

The Windover Beacon is a true ATB. It’s inspired by the mountain bikes Windover grew up riding. It’s perfect for big rides on varied terrain where you might not need suspension or dropper posts (although it can handle both). The Beacon is built up around Reynolds 853 DZB steel tubing, has clearance for 29 x 2.5″ tires, boost hub spacing, rack and fender mounts, and three bottle mounts on each frame. It’s designed to run Windover’s Type 3 carbon fork, which has Anything Cage mounts on each leg and a 415mm axle-to-crown length, making it easy to swap out for gravel suspension forks from RockShox, Fox, or Lauf.

The Windover Beacon is available as a frame-only for £1,499, a frame + fork for £1,799, or as a frameset (frame, fork, BB, headset, seat clamp) for £1,999. Full builds are also available upon request, and anyone interested should contact Windover directly. Learn more about Windover Bikes here .

• Price: $1799 (Frame + Fork)
• Place of Manufacture: England

XX – Chumba URSA 29plus Backcountry (RIP)

• Frame/Fork: Steel/Steel (or carbon)
• Dropouts (F/R): 15 x 110mm / 12 x 148mm (sliding)
• BB drop: 56mm

The Chumba URSA 29plus Backcountry was one of the first production, bikepacking-specific 29+ rigs on the market. Featuring a made-in-the-USA steel frame, sliding dropouts, and plenty of mounts, its a great option to consider when eying bikes such as the Krampus, ECR, and the Tumbleweed Prospector. Check out this report on it .

• Price: $3495 (BC)
• Place of Manufacture: Texas, USA

XX – Stooge Speedball (RIP)

• Frame/fork: Steel/steel
• Tire Clearance: 29 x 3.0"
• Dropouts (F/R): 142 × 12 / 100 × 15mm

The Speedball is a 29+ bike featuring a Klunkpacker bi-plane fork with triple cage mounts. The speedball is offered in one size only: 23.5″ ETT and 18″ seat tube for anyone between 5’8′ and 6’1″. It has clearance for 3″ rubber on a 45mm rim in the rear and 3.25″ on the front, a 27.2 post, 142 × 12 and 100 × 15 dropouts, and an included eccentric bottom bracket.

Here’s some geo specs: ETT – 597mm, Seat tube – 457mm, head angle – 69, seat angle- 72, BB drop – 75mm, chainstays – 450mm, fork axle to crown – 455mm, head tube – 140mm, fork offset – 55mm truss, 57mm biplane.

• Price: £599 (Frame/Bi-plane fork)

XX – Surly ECR (RIP)

• Max Tire Size: 29 x 3.0
• Dropouts: 100mm QR / 12 x 142/148mm
• BB drop: 80mm

The magic of 29+ is that it provides a large rolling diameter as well as significant floatation and suspension qualities due to a wider footprint. And, all of this is at its disposal without the same penalties that 4″ fatbike tires possess. In essence, 29+ provides added cushion and confidence while not being as sluggish at a fatbike. The Surly ECR was one of the first few 29+ bikes, and the first to repurpose 29+ specifically for bikepacking. Many have followed in its wide footsteps, but it remains the archetype of its own niche.

• Price: $1900 (Complete)

XX – Surly Troll

• Max Tire Size: 26 x 3.0"
• BB drop: 40mm

The little brother to Surly’s Ogre, the Troll has long been an excellent choice for those headed to lands where 26” tires still reign supreme, or for those of a smaller stature, for whom front and rear bag clearance can be an issue. Smaller tires means more space. The Troll doesn’t come set up as a plus bike. Rather, it comes stock with Surly’s touring-friendly 2.5” ETs tires, but in typical Fatties Fit Fine fashion, there’s plenty of room for 26 x 3” tires. Just remember that you’ll want to build up a set of wheels with wider rims, as the standard ones are rather narrow. The Troll is rigid specific, the rear dropout is compatible with a Rohloff hub, and aside from a full complement of rack mounts, there’s no less than four sets of triple-pack mounts on the fork, facing both forward and aft. The Troll is available as both a complete build and a frameset, and has a BB drop of 40mm, so take that into account when swapping out wheels.

• Price: $1700 (Complete)

A note on tire and rim widths

Within the ‘plus’ bike category, there’s a broad range of rim and tire width options. Whilst 3″ tyres on 50mm rims offer the very best in traction, comfort, and flotation, there are reasons why a narrower configuration – a 2.8″ tire on a rim that measures 35mm, or a 2.6″ tire on a 30-32mm internal rim width, for instance – may make sense. Such setups are lighter, offer more options when sourcing replacement tires on the road, and if you’re planning a tour with multi-modal transport, more train and bus friendly. They’re also better in mud, thanks to the larger clearances afforded by your frame and fork, and the fact that they have less of a tendency to plane over surfaces. Again, be aware of the impact that a smaller diameter tire will have on your bottom bracket height; it will likely effect it by a few millimetres, which will increase the chance of pedal strikes. All in all, pairing the right rim with the right tire width makes sense, as it maximises tire stability, avoiding some of the side to side roll that can be associated with plus tires, and protecting the rim too.

26+ vs. 27.5+ vs. 29+ vs. Wide Trail, in brief

There are pros and cons to each wheel size. Generally speaking, the larger the wheel, the smoother the ride. The smaller the wheel, the more nimble the handling. Which plus tire size is best for you will likely boil down to two main factors. The first is the availability of replacement tires in the areas you live or intend to travel. The second is your own stature. The larger diameter the tire, the less clearance you’ll have for a seat pack or front roll, especially if you intend to use suspension at some point (remember to allow for the fork’s compression). At the time of writing, the largest availability of tires is in the 27.5″ size, which will likely suit most riders.

Worth noting too is that bikes with plus-size clearances often overlap with ‘wide trail’ clearances in the next wheel size up. For example, 26+ generally fits 27.5 x 2.4” and 27.5+ often has clearances for 29 x 2.4” tires. This allows you to reinvent your bike and helps futureproof your frame. If you’re planning to experiment with wheel and tire sizes, be aware of the potential impact on bottom bracket height, which will affect pedal clearance. More recently, many of us have been gravitating toward 29 x 2.6″ tires, for which there are numerous now. One last factor to consider: the smaller the wheel, the easier it will be bag and box your bike for overseas travel.

Parting Thoughts

It’s great to see such a broad variety of fully rigid, steel mountain bikes on the market. Which particular model works best for you will likely depend on what you intend to do with it. Do you want the possibility of running suspension, or more framebag space? The stopping power of hydraulic brakes, or the backcountry serviceability of mechanical brakes? Do you favour the ability to roll over all manner of terrain, or do you prefer a bike that’s lighter and handles more quickly? Are you tall in stature, or on the shorter end?

And, of course, it will depend on money you have in your back pocket, because there’s a wide spectrum of prices to choose from (and don’t forget to save some cash for the trip!). Whatever you decide upon, we’re confident that a simplicity of a fully rigid steel plus bike will capture your imagination and you lead far and wide, just as it did for us.

As with our other Gear Indexes , we took quite a bit of time to collate a comprehensive selection of rigid steel mountain bikes for off-road touring in this list. However, there are probably a few that we missed. After publishing our Indexes of  Drop-bar 29ers and 650B Gravel Plus bikes , we’ve added dozens of options; we expect this one will grow as well. If you know of a bike you think will make a solid addition to this list—preferably one you have first-hand experience with and can recommend—please let us know in the comments below.

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10 Best Bikes For Heavy Riders 2024

If you’re overweight but still love cycling, don’t despair. There are bikes specially made for people like you. I invested more than 30 hours in researching the issue and now know for sure that the best bike for overweight people is the Mongoose Malus . This mountain bike with 4-inch wide tires is super sturdy and durable and will bring many smiles to people weighing up to 330 lbs (according to the manufacturer’s official data).

What makes an excellent bike for heavy riders?

Frame Material and Strength : High-quality steel or certain types of aluminum frames can provide the necessary strength to carry a heavy rider.

Wheel Strength : Wheels with a higher spoke count – ideally 36 or even 40 spokes per wheel – can better support heavier weights. Double-walled rims also add to the strength.

Tires : Wider tires can distribute weight more evenly and reduce the chances of punctures, which benefits heavier riders.

Braking System : Disc brakes, both hydraulic and mechanical, provide excellent stopping power, an essential feature for heavier riders.

Weight Capacity : Always check the manufacturer’s weight limit for the bike to ensure it can safely support the rider’s weight. Having a significant safety margin is better than pushing the upper limit.

Best Bikes for Overweight Riders

Mongoose malus, -best overall-.

Type:  Fat Bike |  Frame Material: Steel | Weight Capacity:  330 lbs. |  Riders Height:  5′ 6″ to 6′

What’s good 👍

• Excellent Bike Quality : The bike has been praised for its overall build and ride quality. Users reported it being sturdy and reliable.
• Smooth Ride : The bike rode smoothly and is suitable for heavy users. The oversized tires also contribute to a comfortable ride.
• Easy Assembly : The bike was relatively easy to assemble, with the most challenging parts of the assembly already completed.
• Cost-Effective : Given its features and performance, the bike offers good value for money. It performs well compared to higher-priced alternatives.
• Good for Heavy Users : The bike was reported to handle larger individuals well, with one user standing at 5’10” and weighing 300+ lbs without any problems.

What’s not so good 👎

• Seat Comfort : The seat that comes with the bike may not be comfortable for everyone, necessitating a replacement for some users.
• Weight : The bike is notably heavy, which might make it difficult for some to maneuver or transport.

The Mongoose Malus Fat Tire Mountain Bike impresses with its sturdy alloy steel frame, 4-inch wide wheels , and high-quality mechanical front and rear disc brakes. It confidently handles up to 330 lbs. , making it ideal for heavy riders or those with hefty backpacks. Its fat tires and other solid components ensure a controlled ride even on challenging terrains.

While assembly is straightforward, users have reported difficulty adjusting the brakes and gear shift derailer. Shipping issues have also resulted in damaged components for some buyers. A notable downside is the bike’s heavyweight, which might pose challenges for some riders.

However, the 7-speed system makes up for this. The seat may require replacement for comfort, and getting the bike serviced before use is advisable due to quality control issues. Despite these challenges, the Mongoose Malus stands out in its category for its robust build and value for money.

Mongoose Dolomite

-the runner-up-.

Type:  Fat Bike |  Frame Material: Steel | Weight Capacity:  350 lbs. |  Riders Height:  5′ 6″ to 6′

• Massive 350 lbs weight limit: This bike is built to accommodate heavy riders, offering a sturdy frame and solid construction to bear weight up to 350 lbs. Whether you’re just starting your fitness journey or looking for an everyday ride, this bike can support you comfortably.
• Decent braking power: Safety should always be a priority when riding a bike, and this model doesn’t disappoint. Its reliable brakes ensure a responsive stopping mechanism, keeping you safe whether you’re commuting in the city or exploring country trails.
• Great frame geometry: A bike’s frame geometry can significantly affect your ride’s comfort and efficiency. This bike’s design enhances riding comfort, stability, and control, making long rides more enjoyable and less tiring.
• Affordable price tag: Despite the quality features, this bike comes at a reasonable price. This makes it a valuable investment for heavy riders on a budget, providing a reliable, durable ride without breaking the bank.
• Feels heavy at 48 lbs: Weighing in at 48 lbs, the bike itself is quite hefty. This might pose a challenge when transporting the bike or navigating steep terrains and could lead to a less nimble ride experience.
• Twist shifters feel cheap: While functional, the twist shifters on this bike leave something to be desired. Some users may find them less sturdy and not as smooth as higher-end shifters. This could impact gear-changing efficiency during rides.

Mongoose Dolomite can hold riders that weigh up to 350 lbs ( as per the many happy customers’ reviews on Amazon ).

If you can’t find a hybrid or mountain bike suitable for your weight, you should start with the Dolomite.

It’s fitted with massive super-sized 26″ X 4″ tires, which are made for all-terrain riding. The braking is guaranteed by hydraulic disc brakes, which means it is well-prepared for overweight people.

Another thing we love about the Dolomite is the frame. It’s a comfortable frame with perfect geometry for big and tall guys. This is one reason this bike is a best-seller and among the best bikes for heavy people.

Read more: Hydraulic vs. Mechanical Disc Brakes

But the most impressive thing about the Mongoose Dolomite is the price. It usually sells between $400 and $600, which is crazy for such an excellent fat bike.

Before buying a fat bike online, I recommend trying one in a local bike shop to check if you like the ride.

Cannondale Trail 6

-best mountain bike for up to 330 lbs-.

Type:  Mountain Bike |  Frame Material: SmartForm C3 Alloy ( Aluminum ) | Weight Capacity:  330 lbs. |  Riders Height:  4’6” to 6’3”

• Durable and lightweight SmartForm C3 Alloy frame: This makes the bike long-lasting and easy to maneuver due to its lightweight nature, thus increasing the bike’s efficiency and performance.
• Great SR Suntour XCT suspension fork with 100mm travel: This provides excellent shock absorption, enhancing comfort and control over different terrains.
• Tektro hydraulic disc brakes: These offer reliable and powerful stopping power, ensuring rider safety and control, especially in wet conditions or steep descents.
• Comfortable and zippy ride: The bike offers a smooth, agile, and responsive riding experience, making it enjoyable for both casual and intensive use.
• The rear derailleur is not very precise: This might result in issues when shifting gears, affecting the smoothness of the ride and overall performance.
• Feels heavy at 32 lb. 12.8 oz.: The weight can make it less ideal for steep climbs and for riders who need to carry or transport the bike frequently. It might also affect acceleration and overall handling.

Cannondale Trail 6 is probably one of the best mountain bikes for heavy guys ( up to 330 lbs . ) and costs $860.

You get a high-quality lightweight aluminum frame with many serious dirt-ready components on top of that fantastic price tag.

The front suspension is SR Suntour XCT with 100 millimeters of trave l, enough to smooth out bumps and absorb shocks. WTB Ranger Comp tires ride smoothly and are quick enough.

The benefit of having a high-quality front suspension with these good tires is that you get a very comfortable, smooth, and zippy ride.

As we know, braking is crucial when we talk about big riders. Cannondale Trail 7 ( 2021 ) is suited with the best-in-class Tektro M275 hydraulic disc ( 160/160 mm rotors ) , probably the best braking for a bike that costs less than $1000.

Another thing that I would like to mention is shifting. You get a full Shimano shifting experience here with the Shimano M315 Rapidfire Plus shifters and Altus/Tourney front/rear derailleur combo.

sixthreezero Around The Block

-best cruiser bike for heavy riders-.

Type:  Beach Cruiser |  Frame Material: Steel | Weight Capacity:  300 lbs. |  Riders Height:  5′ to 6′

• Simple and affordable ride: This makes it a great choice for beginners or those looking for a budget-friendly biking option.
• Available in 1, 3, 7, and 21-speed options: These options provide versatility and allow riders to select a bike that suits their specific riding style or environment.
• Comfortable riding position: This can lead to a more enjoyable ride, reducing fatigue over long distances and making the bike more suitable for leisurely rides or commutes.
• Super easy to maintain: This is a benefit for those who want a low-maintenance option, reducing long-term costs and time spent on upkeep.
• Shimano Index Revo Shifter: This component might not provide as smooth or precise a gear shift as some other models, potentially affecting the riding experience and the bike’s overall performance.
• Quite heavy at 35 lbs: The weight could make the bike harder to transport and less agile on climbs or when accelerating. It might also impact maneuverability and handling.

sixthreezero Around The Block is doubtless one of the best-looking bikes on this list.

The most significant selling point besides the look here is the comfortable ride, thanks to the fantastic ergonomic frame shape, super-comfy cushioned saddle, and ultra-smooth 2″ tires.

This great bike comes in many different color options, plus you can choose between 1-speed, 3-speed, 7-speed, and 21-speed variants. Also, you can choose between two 24-inch and 26-inch frames.

The bike is not made for heavy riders per se, but it can easily handle 250 pounds. It’s not intended for high-speed or bold riding, but it’s perfect for casual riding around the block ( you see what I did there? ).

Priority Bicycles CLASSIC PLUS – GOTHAM EDITION

-best hybrid bike for heavy guys-.

Type:  Hybrid Bike |  Frame Material: Aluminum | Weight Capacity:  300 lbs. |  Riders Height:  5.6′ to 6’2”

• Grease and Rust-Free Ride: Enjoy a maintenance-low experience with a design that minimizes grease and rust, ensuring a cleaner, longer-lasting bicycle.
• Puncture-Resistant Tires: Equipped with good puncture-resistant tires, this bike is prepared to handle urban terrains and reduce the likelihood of flat tires.
• 3-Speed Shimano Nexus Rear Hub: The 3-speed Shimano Nexus rear hub provides a simple and effective gear range for tackling varying city landscapes.
• Lightweight Aluminum Frame: The lightweight aluminum frame makes for easier handling, maneuvering, and transporting, providing a more effortless riding experience.
• Difficult Belt Replacement: The belt drive, although low-maintenance, is difficult to replace when needed, which could potentially lead to higher service costs or longer downtime.
• Uncomfortable Handlebar Grips: The handlebar grips may not provide the most comfortable hold, which could result in hand fatigue or discomfort during longer rides.

You won’t wonder why there’s a high possibility of this bike being out of stock when you check the price: It costs half as much as its cousin, the Continuum Onyx ( also excellent, by the way), yet there’s plenty to recommend, this ride, especially for heavier riders.

This special edition, weighing just 26 pounds, is designed with commuter-style handlebars, and it’s fabricated of ultralight, rustproof aluminum, so if you lift it, you won’t strain your back. 

Inspired by the streets of New York City, home to Priority Bicycles, this quintessential city bike features the company’s signature grease and rust-free Gates Carbon Drive Belt, so you get to the office ready for a meeting rather than having to change your pants.

Sleek black puncture-resistant tires come standard with this bike, and the 3-speed Shimano Nexus internally geared rear hub serves as the bike’s nerve center, so you can count on efficiency, style, and quality every time to climb on board.

PRIORITY CONTINUUM ONYX

-best for commuting-.

• Tektro or Promax Hydraulic Disc Brakes: These brakes provide powerful and reliable stopping power, enhancing safety, and control in various riding conditions.
• NuVinci N380 CVT drivetrain: This continuously variable transmission drivetrain allows for seamless gear shifts and a wide range of gears, improving ride comfort and versatility.
• Integrated fenders and lights: These features offer added practicality, with fenders protecting the rider from road splash and lights increasing visibility and safety in low light conditions.
• You never have to pre-plan gearing for a stoplight: This feature implies the bike may have a feature such as automatic gear shifting or a drivetrain that allows easy transitions, enhancing convenience and ease of use.
• Feels heavy at 30.29lb : This weight can limit the bike’s agility, especially during climbs or when carrying the bike. It might also influence handling and acceleration negatively.

Engineered to be ridden by big and tall guys who have trouble finding bikes delivering a comfortable ride, this Priority Continuum Onyx is a crowd-pleaser. Yet, paying for this bike doesn’t require you to be a millionaire.

Designed to bring safety, style, and simplicity to the riding experience, this latest iteration of the Onyx has been carefully thought out; even the safety light was moved to the handlebars for easier access.

Read more: Best Belt-Drive Bikes

Tackle hills, flats, and bike paths confidently using the Enviolo CVT shifter grip for just the right amount of resistance. You can wear your most excellent pants or jeans to ride because the Gates Carbon Drive belt and cable routing system replace a chain, so you don’t come into contact with slimy agents and rusting chains.

The Tektro Hydraulic brakes stop on a dime, but the features most likely to win you over are the belt drive and NuVinci hub, which could cost twice as much on other models. 

Marin Olema 1 650b

-best gravel bike for heavy guys-.

Type:  Gravel Bike |  Frame Material: Aluminum | Weight Capacity:  300 lbs. | Riders Height: 5’2” to 6’5”

• 650b wheels: These wheels offer a good balance between the agility of smaller wheels and the stability of larger ones, providing a versatile ride suitable for a variety of terrains.
• Tektro mechanical disc brakes: These brakes provide effective and reliable stopping power, increasing the safety and control of the bike.
• Bang for the bucks: This indicates the bike offers great value for its price, providing high-quality features at an affordable cost.
• Rack and fenders mounts: These additional features enhance the bike’s versatility and practicality, making it suitable for commuting, touring, or carrying loads.
• Decent WTB Horizon 47mm tires: These tires provide good grip and durability, enhancing ride comfort and performance across various conditions.
• Not as fast as the competition: This indicates the bike might not deliver as high performance in terms of speed as some other models in its category, which could be a disadvantage for those looking for a high-speed ride.
• Not much flare: This suggests that the handlebars may not have a significant outward angle (“flare”) that some riders prefer for better control and stability, especially on off-road terrains.

Marin Olema 1 650b is one of our favorite adventure bikes for big guys . If you want to have just one bike for everything, you should get the Olema 1. The Olema 1 is comfortable, zippy, and easy to ride on the paved road.

However, it becomes a highly versatile adventure ride when the pavement ends due to the fantastic aluminum frame, gravel-specific 650b wheels , and massive tire clearance. On top of that, you get a ton of rack and fender mounts, so you can make it your perfect commuter bike or even a touring bike. 

What about gearing? The Olema 1 is equipped with a Shimano Claris 2×8 drivetrain ( front and rear derailleur and shifters ), which shifts smoothly and provides enough gear range for most people. Shimano Claris is an entry-level road bike groupset that works excellently for gravel bikes. It offers dual-control levers like the Tiagra, a more expensive groupset. As a result, it’s perfect for commuting, gravel riding, and all-day adventures. 

The Olema 1 has a maximum weight capacity of 300 lbs as per the manufacturer. Moreover, for braking, you get the Tektro mechanical disc brakes suitable for gravel and road cycling. Another feature we love about this bike is the choice of tires. It has aluminum double-wall rims and WTB Horizon 47mm tires that provide very good traction on gravel and smooth rolling on city streets or roads. 

Marin Olema 1 650b is a bang for the buck as well. But, again, you get a ton of bike for just $799.00. Remember that most decent gravel bikes cost between $1,000 and $1,500. For example, one of the most popular Marin gravel bikes, the Marin Four Corners, is $1,199.00.

Read more: Best Electric Bikes for Heavy Riders

Yes, it comes with a better Shimano groupset ( Sora instead of Claris ), but that’s a $400 more expensive bike.  

Zize Bikes 29er Max 2.0

-best bike for 400 lb. man-.

Type:  Hybrid Bike |  Frame Material: Steel | Weight Capacity:  450 lbs. | Riders Height: 5’7” to 7′

• Massive weight capacity of 450 lbs.: This high weight capacity accommodates a wide range of riders and allows for substantial additional cargo, making it an excellent option for heavy-duty use.
• Comfortable upright riding position: This posture is often preferred for long rides or commuting as it reduces strain on the back and arms, enhancing comfort and endurance.
• Very durable wheels and tires: This ensures the bike can withstand rough conditions and prolonged use, reducing the need for frequent replacements and maintenance.
• Powerful mechanical disc brakes: These offer reliable and efficient stopping power, increasing safety and control in various riding conditions.
• Too expensive at $2,500.00: The high price point could make this bike inaccessible for budget-conscious buyers or those looking for a more affordable option.
• No suspension fork: This could potentially reduce the comfort and control on uneven or off-road terrains, limiting the bike’s versatility and off-road capabilities.

We are so excited to show you a real bike made for big guys.

This durable bariatric bike has been factory-tested to support up to 450 lbs . and is specifically designed for heavy riders.

It’s built to last with an aircraft-grade Chromoly frame, TIG welding, and 36 spokes . Plus, with a wide, upright handlebar and adjustable stem, you’ll enjoy a comfortable cycling experience around town or on the trail.

And thanks to its mechanical disc brakes, you’ll have superior stopping power at your fingertips.

The only problem with this bike is the price. At $2,500.00, this bike is priced well above most people’s bike budgets. But if you are really heavy and weigh more than 350 lbs. this model could be an excellent option.

Cannondale Quick CX 4 Women’s Bike

-best bike for heavy women-.

Type:  Fitness Bike |  Frame Material: Aluminum | Weight Capacity:  275 lbs. | Riders Height: 4’10” to 5’10”

• Vittoria 700x40c multi-surface tires: These tires provide excellent versatility, allowing for comfortable and efficient rides across various surfaces and conditions.
• Superior Suntour NEX-E25 front fork: This high-quality suspension fork improves comfort and control, especially on uneven terrain, enhancing the overall ride quality.
• Full Shimano Tourney 3×7 drivetrain: This provides a wide range of gear options, improving the bike’s versatility across different terrains and riding conditions.
• Comfortable and zippy ride: The bike offers a smooth and responsive ride, making it enjoyable for a variety of uses, from casual riding to more intensive cycling.
• Mechanical disc brakes: These may not provide the same level of stopping power and reliability as hydraulic disc brakes, especially in wet conditions or on steep descents, which could potentially affect safety and control.

For women seeking a bike that can help them slim down, this aluminum Cannondale Quick CX4 is an ideal choice for overweight bodies – if you can find one, that is.

High-quality construction, powerful disc brakes, a solid brand name , and the ability to sweep riders over everything from paved streets to dirt roads have caused this model to sell out fast.

Tailor your ride courtesy of 5 size options (S to XL). The SmartForm C3 Alloy frame and micro-suspension technology reduce vibrations on dicey surfaces.

Stay safe at night thanks to bright 360° reflective elements, and no matter how much you weigh, the Cannondale Fitness Ergo Double Density saddle will deliver comfort.

Stay fit once you’ve accomplished your goal by riding this sturdy bike into the future.

Tern Verge D9 Folding Bike

-best folding bike for heavy riders-.

Type:  Folding Bike |  Frame Material: Aluminum | Weight Capacity:  265 lbs. | Riders Height: 4’6” to 6’2”

• Quickest among most folding bikes: This indicates high performance in terms of speed, making it ideal for swift commuting or fast-paced rides.
• 1×9 Shimano drivetrain is efficient, silent, and durable: This offers smooth and quiet gear shifts, long-lasting performance, and reduced maintenance needs.
• Very compact design but still feels full-size: The compact design enhances portability and storage convenience without compromising the feel of a full-size bike, offering the best of both worlds.
• Straightforward folding mechanism (in less than 10 seconds): The easy and quick folding feature makes this bike highly convenient for commuters, especially those using public transportation or with limited storage space.
• Shimano hydraulic disc brakes are welcome for heavier riders: These brakes provide powerful and reliable stopping force, ensuring safety and control for riders of different weights.
• Not suitable for tall riders (max height 6’2″): This height limitation might exclude some potential users, particularly those who are taller than the maximum height recommendation, affecting the bike’s versatility.

Are you looking for a bike that is easy to store and transport? Tern Verge D9 folding bike is perfect for anyone who wants a high-quality, durable bike that can be folded up ( in ten seconds ) and transported easily. With its “451 wheels” and 1 x 9-speed drivetrain, this bike promises exceptional performance.

You’ll appreciate the comfortable riding position, which helps you stay on top of your game even on long rides. The bike comes with mighty Shimano hydraulic disc brakes – not typical for mid-ranged folding bikes.

We think that Tern Verge D9 is the best folding bike for people over 200 lbs. because it comes with a weight capacity of 265 lbs, hydraulic disc brakes, and a Tern Porter™ saddle with a patented GripPad design, which provides easy shoulder-mounted bike carrying.

How to Choose the Best Bikes for Heavy Riders

When searching for a bicycle suitable for a heavier individual, focusing on a few key aspects is crucial. The bike should be durable, high-quality , and, notably, comfortable. This ensures a sense of safety and satisfaction while riding and encourages maintaining cycling as a lasting pastime.

Strong frame material

For heavier cyclists, aluminum or steel frames are excellent choices due to their strength and sturdiness. While steel is the most robust, it tends to be heavier, affecting handling and making it challenging to transport the bike upstairs or onto trains. Conversely, aluminum alloy is lighter than steel yet still highly durable, and it’s more affordable, making it an ideal material for a heavy-duty bicycle.

Weight Capacity

The weight capacity refers to the maximum weight a bike can safely support, including the rider and any additional gear. This information is usually provided by the manufacturer and can be found on the bike’s specifications sheet or website.

Choosing a bike with a weight capacity that meets or exceeds the rider’s weight is essential to ensure safety, comfort, and durability. Bikes designed for heavy riders typically have higher weight capacities, ranging from 250 to 500 pounds.

Remember that exceeding the recommended weight limit can lead to decreased performance, increased wear and tear, and potential safety hazards.

Read more: Can You Be Too Heavy to Ride a Bike?

Sturdy Wheels

Regardless of size, it’s essential for your bike to have reliable and sturdy wheels. This is especially important for larger riders. Generally, smaller wheels tend to be stronger than larger ones due to their smaller circumference. For instance, wheels that are 26” or 27.5” in diameter will typically be stronger than those measuring 29”.

Look for wheels with a higher spoke count (32 or more) and wider rims, as these features provide better support and durability under heavier loads.

Additionally, wheels with through-axles instead of quick-release skewers can offer added strength and security. The material and construction of the wheelset also matter, with double-wall rims and strong hubs being more suitable for heavy riders.

Wider Tires

In addition to robust wheels, having strong tires is vital. A good rule to remember is that thicker tires usually offer more stability and comfort.

Wider tires provide extra cushioning, and when paired with effective suspension, they contribute to an overall smoother ride. If you’re considering off-road cycling, you might explore fat bikes, which are equipped with supersized tires, typically four to five inches wide. These are specifically designed to navigate challenging terrains such as sand and mud.

Good Suspension

Suspension systems can provide additional comfort and control for heavy riders, particularly when riding on rough terrain or uneven surfaces. There are two main types of suspension systems: front suspension (also known as a suspension fork) and full suspension (both front and rear).

A front suspension fork can help absorb impacts and reduce stress on the bike’s frame and rider, while a full suspension system offers even greater shock absorption and control over rough terrain. However, full-suspension bikes tend to be heavier and more expensive than their hardtail counterparts.

Read more: Do Bike Tires Have Weight Limits?

Excellent Brakes

Solid and reliable brakes are essential for heavy riders, as the additional weight can require more stopping power and control. Hydraulic disc brakes are the most effective option , offering superior stopping power, modulation, and performance compared to mechanical disc or rim brakes in wet conditions.

Hydraulic systems use fluid to transfer the braking force from the lever to the caliper, which allows for more precise and consistent braking performance. Disc brakes are less affected by rim damage or debris, ensuring reliable stopping power even in challenging conditions.

Comfortable Saddle

A comfortable saddle is critical for enjoyable, pain-free cycling, especially for heavy riders. Look for a saddle with adequate padding and a shape that supports your sit bones comfortably.

There are saddles specifically designed for heavy riders that provide extra support and durability, often featuring reinforced rails, wider platforms, and additional padding.

It’s important to note that saddle comfort is subjective, and what works for one person may not work for another. Test different saddles and consult with a professional at a local bike shop to find the best fit for you.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are heavier bikes slower.

It is a common belief that heavier bikes are slower than lighter bikes. However, this is not always the case. Heavier bikes can sometimes be faster, depending on the terrain and the rider’s weight.

Heavier bikes tend to be slower on flat terrain because pedaling requires more effort. However, heavier bikes can be faster on hilly terrain because they have more inertia and are less likely to lose momentum.

Are carbon bikes suitable for heavy riders?

Carbon road bikes can be an excellent option for heavier riders looking to improve their performance. In addition to being lighter, carbon road bikes are also often more comfortable to ride, thanks to their dampening properties.

What brands are suitable for heavy riders?

The best brands that make bikes with 300+ lbs weight capacity are Mongoose, Priority Bicycles, Pure Cycles, Diamondback, Trek Bicycles, and Zize bikes. Their weight capacity and frame geometry can easily handle 350+ pounds and 6’4″ tall riders. Also, Schwinn and Raleigh make great bicycles for heavy riders, and we often recommend models made by them.

Are there any bikes for 400+ lbs riders?

If you are a big guy who weighs more than 400 lbs, my suggestions above are unsuitable. I would suggest buying a specially designed bike for super heavy people. And the most popular place online for such bikes is Zize Bikes Store. You should check their website and see the category bikes for over 400 lbs. They even have category bikes for around 550 pounds, which is fantastic! So if you are a huge guy or woman over 400 or 500 lbs, you should check Zize Bikes.

Do bikes have a weight limit?

Bikes do have a weight limit. Typically, most bikes’ weight limit is 275-300 lbs. Some bikes are often equipped with higher-quality components, increasing the weight capacity to 350 lbs.

How to achieve a proper bike fit as a heavy cyclist?

For a proper bike fit as a heavy cyclist, it’s crucial to start with the right frame size , which can be determined at a bike shop or using online sizing guides.

Choose a wider saddle for better support and adjust it to ensure your leg is almost fully extended with a slight bend at the knee.

Handlebars should be at a comfortable height , allowing a slight bend in your elbows, and positioned so you don’t overreach, preventing strain.

Adjust pedal and cleat position for natural foot alignment, and if your bike has suspension, tune it to accommodate your weight.

Heavier riders may also need higher tire pressure to prevent flats and ensure efficiency.

Regular maintenance is essential due to the extra strain on the bike, and consider a professional bike fitting for personalized adjustments.

Recommended Reads

11 Best Budget Mountain Bikes : If you are into mountain biking, check out our selection in this blog post. We gathered some of the best budget picks for this year.

12 Best Bikes for Teens : Are you looking for a nice gift for your teenager? Check out the dedicated blog post with some of the best bicycles for teenagers you can find on the market right now.

9 Best Electric Bikes under $1000 : Electric bikes are trendy this year. Everyone wants to buy a new model, and the shelves are almost empty. Check our dedicated article if you’re looking for an eBike below $1000.

10 Best Entry-Level Road Bikes for Beginners : Road bikes are so underrated nowadays. Check out our blog post if you’re a roadie looking for an excellent entry-level model.

Passionate cyclist since 1991

Alek Asaduryan is the founder of YesCycling and has been riding bikes and in the cycling industry since 1991. Since then, his mission is to make cycling more accessible to everyone.

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Hi there, I’m wondering why you didn’t include any bike from ZIZE Bikes. They have bike rated for riders up to 550 lbs. All their features are chosen specifically for heavy riders.

Hi Anastasia, actually I’ve mentioned Zize bikes at the end of the article. The heading is Are there any bikes for 400+ lbs riders.

Thanks Alek, I missed that section! I’m glad they were included. I got to see them in person and they are so well built!

Can you recommend folding bikes for 300lbs to 350lbs whether small big wheels or folding mountain bikes.

Yes, $600 to $1000+ range for steel and aluminum frames and strong parts.

Thanks Alek!

Hi Garth, I personally like Tern Node D7i but it’s a bit above your maximum budget. Below $1000 you should go for the Dahon Mariner or Vilano Urbana. Cheers, Alek

Comments are closed.

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Mountain Bikes

The Best Bikes for Heavy Riders in 2023 – Market Dissected  

  October 30, 2019

By   Max Shumpert

Diamondback Bicycles Haanjo 5C Carbon

Gravel Adventure Road Bike.

DYU A5 14 Inch Folding E-Bike

Built on a larger ultra-light frame with high weight capacity.

Diamondback Union 1 E-Bike

Perfect alternative for commuting around the city

• Schwinn Bonafide Mountain Bike

Provide you with a fun, durable riding experience.

Yeti Cycles SB140

A light-weight enduro bike or a heavy-duty trail bike.

Read our in-depth reviews of the best bikes for heavy riders. Find our top picks for 2023

If you consider your body size to be bigger or heavier than average, you might have passed on the opportunity to get on a bike, fearing the curious looks from strangers on the road. Or probably because you assume the bike won't be able to handle your bulk. 

Well, no more worries about that; it's time for you to join the party! You'll be glad to know that there are bike models that can comfortably bear your weight.

In this post, I will review the best bikes for big guys that you can choose from. Keep on reading to find out what's best for you!

In a hurry? The test winner after 25 hours of research:

• Mongoose Dolomite

Why is it better?

• Wide range of gears for an easy ride in hilly terrain
• High-grade components
• Amazing price
• Can handle 350lbs weight

92/100 our score

Our buying guide.

"Hey man, I want to lose weight, and I would love to have a bike to get on and wander around. Can you suggest any to me?" -  Asked my dearest friend Jimmy. After suggesting some bikes, I realized that several other people like him are willing to take such steps while following their wandering passion. So why not make it happen for other people?

Thus, we have gathered here the best bikes for heavy riders to help them achieve their goal and not let their passion die. After such a crucial pandemic situation, it is time for you to relive your dreams.

At Bikes Reviewed , we are dedicated to serving you with the best bikes for heavy riders with all safety. Before advising, these products have been thoroughly examined and tested with genuine customer opinions.

How We Picked

We have searched more than 40 bikes for heavy riders with their features. Starting from searching online for the best range of heavy bikes available in the market, we have searched all the manufacturer's websites, their entire bike components, and the material used.

After 25 hours of thorough research and analysis of bikes by comparing with each other, we have selected the 15 best bikes for heavy riders, only for you. Our researchers have also gone through 420+ reviews of individual customers to understand the user experience with the product.

Researched sources

REviews considered

hours researching

products compared

Last Updated: Dec 21, 2023

By Max Shumpert: This article has been updated to reflect the most accurate information regarding bikes for heavy riders available for those who are interested cycling while having the bigger body mass. The top 8 available have changed, and information has been added to assist individuals in finding the best bike for a heavy rider currently available on the market. The FAQ has also been updated.

Best Bikes for Heavy Riders – Comparison Chart

Best bikes for heavy riders .

Now that you know the features to look out for when shopping for a bike suitable for overweight persons, let us delve into the individual bikes that fall into our list of top 5 bikes for big men.

#1: Diamondback Bicycles Haanjo 5C Carbon

Best road bike for heavy riders.

• Carbon frame with endurance geometry is lightweight, rugged, and comfortable
• DB gravel performance full-monologue carbon fork for smooth and precise handling
• TRP Spire C mechanical disc brakes offer plenty of stopping power

Versatility is something that wins the race of attributes. You can never settle for just cycling, mountain riding, or endurance training as a bike enthusiast. Similarly, the Haanjo 5C EXP is designed for more than one biking experience. It features a commuter, road, gravel, bike packing and touring bike, where you get the freedom to explore the low-pressure tires and high-quality components. 

Features Of Haanjo 5C EXP

• This adventure bike has a tough yet lightweight carbon fiber frame which allows a smooth and comfortable ride. 
• The carbon fork allows you precise handling. 
• The Diamondback Haanjo 5C was launched with fender eyelets to make it mudproof. 
• With over 20 gears, it provides excellent gravel performance and impressive endurance geometry. 
• The manufacturers decided on bar-end shifters for this adventure bike due to the ease of on-trail maintenance and reliability.
• This bike aims at getting you off any rugged terrain.

Specifications Of Haanjo 5C EXP

• Wheel Size: 650 Inches
• Number of Speeds: 27
• Suspension Type: Rear, Front, Dual
• Frame Material: Carbon
• Size: 50cm/SM
• Speed : 27-speed drivetrain
• Rims: HED Tomcat Disc

What We Like

• 300lbs weight limit is good for a bike for overweight adults.
• Carbon frame and fork.
• Multiple touring rack options.
• Strong and light frame.
• High-quality Tires.
• Affordable.

What We Don't Like

• Bar-end shifters somewhat make it hard to change the gears while braking.

The high-quality frame and fork make it the best road bike for heavy people. In the evolution of bikes and cycles, we have come a long way where a cycling fanatic is not characterized as a slim and fit figure. If you wish to go on long comfortable rides or climb the hills to enjoy the sunset regardless of your heavyweight, then this bike is your escape.

#2: Addmotor MOTAN

Best electric bike for heavy riders .

Addmotor MOTAN Electric Bike

• Easy to Assemble
• Larger Capacity
• Comfort& Multifunction
• Larger Load And Powerful
• 2 Years Of Technical Support And A One-year Service For The Electric Motor, Battery.

If you need a little bit of help when riding your bike, the Addmotor MOTAN is just the ideal e-bike to give you the boost you're looking for.

The Addmotor MOTAN electric bike features a formidable 6061 aluminum alloy frame that can support heavy riders of up to 300lbs.

Features Of Addmotor MOTAN

• The compact frame has a curved top tube sloping downwards and maintains a lightweight profile at only 67lbs. 
• The frame's unique design allows the rider to easily rest their feet on the floor when the bicycle is at a stop and makes quick work of extreme trails.
• Strong Addshox Steel Fork enhances the bike's stability and provides a smooth cruise on bumpy backcountry terrain. 
• This bike comes with a 30cm quick-release seat post that comfortably suits overweight riders between 5'2''-6'2'' tall.
• This further helps to reduce the strain of long-distance adventures on the bike. 
• The Motan is equipped with a brushless DC hub motor that has been attached to the bike's rear hub.
• This powerful motor can produce between 750 W and 1,250 W, which allows you to plow through mud, snow, and gravel without breaking a sweat. 
• This also allows you to reach a maximum speed of 23 mph, which should be enough to take on any steep ascends on hilly terrains.
• The motor's powerful torque enables you to scale the steepest of slopes, climbing up to 60-degree gradients. This electric bicycle runs on a high-capacity 48 V, 16 Ah lithium battery that offers a range of about 55-65 miles on pedal-assist mode.
• Tektro hydraulic brakes have been fitted on the front and back wheels with 180 mm rotors. These powerful brakes will bring the machine to a stop on a dime, ensuring that you don't lose your way in wet and slippery conditions.
• Kenda 20" X 4.0" 60 Fat Tires have knobby threads to enhance traction with the ground without making your ride bumpy on smooth surfaces.

Specifications OF Addmotor MOTAN

• Wheel: Aluminum Alloy Integral Wheel
• Front Fork: Addshox Steel Fork
• Tire: Kenda 20'' X 4.0'' 60
• Appropriate Height: 5'2''-6'2''
• Shimano Pro Freewheel 7-speeds
• 300lbs weight limit is good for a bike for overweight adults
• High-quality tires
• Strong and light frame
• Powerful disc brakes
• The bike comes with 85% Assembled
• Some riders complained about the seat 

This is enough time to make the most of your adventure before the battery runs out of power. However, you will require about 6-7 hours of charging to get the battery back to full power. The battery has been placed on the bike's down tube, and it is also removable for your convenience when you want to charge or store it. The high beams, blinkers, bell, and rear light is another standout feature in this bike and hence also called an electric scooter. The Addmotor MOTAN electric bike comes with all the features you'd find in the best fat-tire e-bikes. It is a versatile off-road monster that enables you to explore various terrains without stressing your body.

#3: DYU A5 14 Inch Folding E-Bike

• 30-37 miles Per charge in pedal assist mode
• 15.5mph Top speed
• 36V, 10 Ah Lithium-Ion Battery
• 14 Inch Folding Electric Bike
• 6061 Alloy Aluminum Frame

With the 6061 Aluminum alloy frame, the DYU A5 electric bike completely functions on power. The alloy frame that weighs around 39 pounds can also bear the load up to 330 pounds. Due to the frame, the bike is durable and robust enough to withstand a good weight capacity, making it one of the best bikes for people over 300 pounds. 

Features Of DYU A5

• This electric bike comes with high-quality battery life, which will assist you to 30-37 miles.
• The A5 has a comfortable adjustable seat to customize it for different heights. 
• It is a 14-inch foldable electric bike that also features a 3-stage folding ability where you are allowed to fold it in half.
• The folding ability offers ultra-compact storage when traveling long distances, school, or the subway.
• It is also equipped with a lightweight aluminum alloy frame.
• The Gear Shift Accelerator enables fast and safe electric power, while you can read the data clearly on the LCD.
• Its vacuum tires are highly durable and wear-resistant, making the bike offer a durable and non-slip situation. 

Specifications Of DYU A5

• Brake mode: Front and rear disc brake
• Anti-theft function
• Hub size: 14 inch
• Material: Aluminum alloy
• Rated power: 350W
• Light: Front and Tail Lights
• The wide-angle headlight enables safe riding at night.
• Shock-absorbing seats.
• Triple suspension.
• Three-step folding enables smooth portability.
• Two-disc brakes.
• Anti-theft function with alarm.
• Better for a city lifestyle than a recreational e-bike for trails.  
• Some customers and electric vehicle enthusiasts do not appreciate the top speed, 15 mph.

Amazingly designed for no hassle, the A5 requires no maintenance except the mechanical brakes. If you successfully keep the disc brakes in a tip-top shape, then the bike gives you no reason for continuous upkeep. The single-speed spec of the bike also grows on you and proves to be a utility e-bike as you cruise through a populated urban environment with a passenger or parcel.

#4: Salsa Cutthroat Carbon GRX 810 Bike

Best hybrid bike for heavy riders.

Salsa Cutthroat Carbon GRX 810 Bike

• High-modulus v2 carbon frame and fork for more ride compliance
• A 69-degree head tube angle provides a long, stable wheelbase for confidence on technical rides
• Front and rear thru-axles with boost spacing
• Flat mount brakes and internal cable routing on frame and fork

Specifically designed to achieve any climb and accomplish any distance, the Cutthroat Carbon GRX 810 comes with a bikepacking machine that Salsa's Tour Divide inspires. Whether you plan to rule the singletrack, ride the Tour Divide, or even go on a rugged bikepacking, the Cutthroat never leaves your side. 

Features Of Salsa Cutthroat Carbon GRX 810

• The Shimano GRX 810 drivetrain offers seamless shifting and braking.
• Front and rear thru-axles promote boost spacing.
• It is equipped with a new and enhanced cargo-carrying capacity.
• Shimano M7000 11, speed 11-42t cassette offers smooth gear changes on rough terrains.
• It also has a textured, easy-to-grasp knob for a secured grip.
• Internal cable routing on frame and fork.

Specifications Of Salsa Cutthroat Carbon GRX 810

• Material: Carbon
• Chain: Shimano HG701-11
• Shifter: Shimano GRX 810 Hydro
• Stem: Salsa Guide
• Handlebar: Salsa Cowchipper Deluxe
• Tires: 29 x 2.2" 
• Sizes: 52 (new), 54, 56, 58, and 60
• Various mount options.
• Ideal for adventures.
• Great for comfortable rides.
• Clearance for 29 x 2.4" tires.
• Front mech mount.

Despite its cons, these are great bikes for over 300 lbs. The Vibration Reduction System (VRS) offers a stable rise by absorbing smaller impacts on rougher roads. This bike gets a big thumbs up from our team of experts due to its amazing combination of ample tire clearance, impressive mounts, and efficient carbon frameset that portray the bike's versatility.

#5: Marin Nicasio Plus Bike

Marin Nicasio Plus

• The 700C x 30mm tires make the bike travel worthy for any surface.
• It is equipped with a durable drivetrain (Micro-SHIFT Advent 1x9).
• Its saddle gives a beyond-road vibe.
• A variety of racks and mounts are available.

Suitable for beginners, the Merin Nicasio does not promote performance riding or elevation gain. But the components used for the build, from Promax mechanical disc brakes to entry-level Shimano Claris 2×8 drivetrain, provide decent precision and performance. 

Features Of Marin Nicasio+

• It is equipped with a durable drivetrain (MicroSHIFT Advent 1x9).
• The bike comes with a solid entry-level MicroSHIFT Advent rear derailleur.
• It is low maintenance. 
• A variety of racks and mounts are available. 

Specifications Of Marin Nicasio+

• Bike Style: Gravel
• Wheel Size: 27.5" (650b)
• Fork: Rigid
• Brake Type: Cable Disc
• Hubs: Forged Aluminum Alloy, 32h
• Fork Material: Chromoly, Steel
• Tires: WTB Horizon 650B x 47mm
• Excellent control on single track.
• Sturdy steel frame.
• Good bike for overweight beginner
• No great performing components.

A full gravel bike that is not fancy and isn't that attractive but can still accompany you to comfortable rides is the Marin Nicasio Plus. Even though it is low on high-end equipment and price, it does not go down on fun. Our team wasn't expecting a gravel bike to be so good at affordable prices. It is high on fun.

#6: Diamondback Union 1 E-Bike

• The motor provides a 400-watt-hour battery
• The sturdy 27.5-inch wheels take you on a roll for around 35-55 miles.
• The Class 3 E-bike provides the pedal assistance of 28mph. 
• Bosch PowerTube 400

Diamondback's brand new Union 1 e-bike radiates a city-friendly vibe that features an impressive and inexpensive aluminum frame. Of the four e-bikes manufactured by Diamondback, the Union 1(entry-level) is the lowest-priced. 

Features Of Diamondback Union 1 E-Bike

• The motor provides a 400-watt-hour battery.
• The Tektro hydraulic disc brakes assist you on the ride when it's time to control the speed.
• While it is highly suggested for mountain biking, it is also a reasonable bicycle for overweight people. 
• Thanks to its 85Nm of torque, the Union 1 E-Bike delivers a seamless and smooth ride. 
• The Class 3 E-bike provides the pedal assistance of 28mph.

Specifications Of Diamondback Union 1 E-Bike

• Battery: Bosch PowerTube 400
• Seatpost: Aluminum Forged (350mm)
• Brakes: Tektro M735 (180/160mm)  
• Charger: Bosch 4A
• Tires: Schwalbe Super Moto (27.5" x 2.4")
• Best quality battery pack.
• Great for commuting.
• The price range is good given the attributes.
• Great machine, perfect shifting, braking and cornering.
• Not fit for riders with a height shorter than 5' 6".

For an e-bike that features a well-built structure with awe-inspiring performance, this Class 3 electric bike is available at a pretty affordable price. Suppose you see yourself riding an e-bike that offers performance, quality, and extra space to carry additional accessories. In that case, Diamondback Union 1 E-Bike should be your go-to bike.

#7: Ridley X-Ride Disc Rival 1 Cyclocross Bike

Ridley X-Ride Disc Rival 1 Cyclocross Bike

• Internal cable routing
• Rival 1 drivetrain
• 27.2mm seatpost helps dampen vibrations
• Mechanical disc brakes

This cyclocross season, take things up a notch with Ridley X-Ride Disc Rival 1, whose specs and features add value to your training. This bike can be easily handled if you plan winter cycling or training. 

Features Of Ridley X-Ride Disc Rival 1

• The internal cable routing makes it easy to maintain and clean the cables. 
• Its cyclocross geometry is its USP which makes it ultra-versatile.
• The bike comes with wide tires, which proves to be adaptable for any terrain.
• The Flat-Mount Hydraulic Disc type of brake ensures control of your speed, especially during rainy situations when you may need to halt in a split second.
• It also has a 1x drivetrain that offers athletes or beginners a gearing simplicity on the CX course.

Specifications Of Ridley X-Ride Disc Rival 1

• Fork: 4ZA Oryx Disc
• Frame Material: 7005-T6 alloy
• Brakeset: SRAM Rival
• Tire Size: 700c x 33mm
• Wheelset: Shimano RS171 Disc
• Manufacturer Warranty : 5 years on frame
• Internal cable routing.
• Five years warranty on frame.
• Mechanical disc brakes.
• Rival 1 drivetrain.
• Pedals not included.

There is no bike weight limit mentioned for this bike, but if you are someone who wants to stay fit or wish to take part in the cyclocross training regardless of your weight (try not to go over 300 lbs), then Ridley X-Ride Disc Rival 1 Cyclocross Bike should be your ultimate choice.

#8: Niner MCR RDO 2-Star (2023)

Niner MCR RDO 2-Star (2023)

• Room to roam with clearance for up to 700 x 50c tires or 650b x 2.0 
• Integrated frame mounts so you can bring all of your gear with you on your adventures
• Compatible with both 700c and 650b wheelsets
• Supple yet stable, gravel tuned CVA suspension

The Niner Bikes came into existence with a simple and straightforward goal - making your biking experience more in control, with comfort and confidence on dirt. The MCR 9 RDO emerged with the same goal under its belt and adjusted high-performance suspension for gravel. 

Only the gravel lovers would know the real joy of venturing off the pavement. Hence, let's take a look at some of its features to understand why it is the most eligible bike for gravel riding.

Features Of Niner MCR RDO 2-Star

• This bike is compatible with both 700c and 650b wheelsets.
• Niner thought of maintaining a bump-absorbing bike that would not slow down the rider. However, they didn't focus on creating the lightest frame for racing since they had different plans for the bike and the users. 
• A great number of mounting options are available to be equipped with any gear you need on your expeditions. 
• The integrated frame fender protects you and your ride from mud or dirt.
• The long-wheelbase offers stability during the ride.

Specifications Of Niner MCR RDO 2-Star

• Frame: Niner RDO Carbon Fiber
• Wheel Size: 700c, 650b
• Seatpost: Niner Carbon Seatpost (400mm) 50 mm of rear-wheel travel
• Reasonably affordable bike.
• Carbon fiber construction.
• Replacement components available and inexpensive.
• Great pedaling efficiency.
• Routine maintenance of suspension is required.

With the bike weighing 25.24 lb, the bike weight capacity increases since an overweight person can easily handle the bike's weight (Not that athletes or fit people can't). But, when it comes to the benefits you receive from this full-suspension gravel bike, the weight doesn't matter.

#9: Schwinn Bonafide Mountain Bike  

If you need a smaller mountain bike.

• Aluminum mountain frame and a powerful suspension fork that soaks up bumps and thumps
• 24-speed trigger shifters and front and rear derailleurs make gear changes easy and smooth
• This bike ships ready to be assembled, and the wheels measure 29 inches

If you think the Diamond Overdrive is too large for your height and consider something smaller that fits you more comfortably, look no further than the Schwinn Bonafide . This MTB promises to take you on unforgettable runs in the woods and down the trails.

The Schwinn Bonafide will serve you diligently on various terrains. Whether you are riding through deep mud or a foot of water, this amazing bike for big guys will provide stability needed for such treacherous conditions. 

The Schwinn Bonafide is easy on the eyes - you'll fall in love with its unique design the first time you catch a glimpse of it. The matte black body blends in well with the red flashes on its frame and wheels, giving it a pretty bold look. 

Features Of Schwinn Bonafide

• This hardtail is constructed with a sturdy 17” aluminum frame with a powerful Schwinn fork suspension that will make going over bumps and rocks a breeze.
• However, its small frame is best suited for riders below 250lbs. 
• Its suspension fork not only ensures durability but also absorbs all the shock, allowing you to enjoy a fun riding experience wherever you go. 
• Forget bumpy roads, pavements, or (medium) holes - With this fork, you won’t feel those anymore! 
• The low-lying frame provides enough room for your gut, as well as your knees when pedaling. 
• Thanks to 24-speed Shimano EZ-Fire trigger shifters, you get enough to leave to tackle all sorts of hills. 
• Its front and back Shimano derailleurs and Schwinn alloy cranks offer a wide gear range and smooth shifting to deal with any trail. 
• The bike is fairly fast and will get you to speeds of 28mph in the right conditions. 
• It is equipped with 29” double-wall alloy rims with 32 spokes that remain durable and keep the ride stable on rough trails. 
• Wide 2.25” knobby mountain tires help make this bike the backcountry warrior it is. 

Specifications of Schwinn Bonafide

• Wheel Size: 29 Inches
• Number of Speeds: 24 Speed
• Aluminum Frame: 2.25” tires
• Item Weight: 39 Pounds
• Lightweight frame.
• 5-year warranty.
• Responsive braking system.
• It is not always easy to find its parts or components locally.  

Verdict 

If ever you want to make adjustments on your bike for a custom ride experience, the Schwinn Bonafide is easily upgradable. Any issues that don't live up to your preferences can be readily rectified with a few slight alterations. 

Unlike the Overdrive 29er, this bike is not delivered preassembled. You'll have to do the assembly by yourself or contact a professional if you aren't up to the task. Luckily, the precise instructional manual makes the whole process easy and worthwhile.

The Schwinn Bonafide mountain bike offers great value for money! It will spice up your sedentary life by injecting a new sense of adventure when you take down the trail. 

Just ensure that you are under 250lbs!

#10: Mongoose Dolomite

Best bikes for the big guys.

• Ride comfortably with beach cruiser pedals and ensure safety with front and rear disc brakes
• Conquer any off-road trail with ease with this steel-framed mountain bike with supersized all-terrain knobby tires
• This bike ships ready to be assembled. Sized for adult riders 5' 6" to 6' tall, and has a limited lifetime warranty

The Mongoose Dolomite is considered a fat tire mountain bike. Its super-sized 26″ X 4″ tires are designed to handle higher weights easily. The Frame design is an essential feature of this bike that makes it look impressive and enhances the rider's comfort.

Features Of Mongoose Dolomite

• It can handle 350lbs weight and is one of the best bikes specifically for overweight bikers.
• The Powerful dual disc brake in this fat tire bike will allow you to stop the bike in no time though you are riding on a bike trail. 
• My general advice is to check the seat and the bars before buying.
• You need to find a seat that matches your build for a greater rider. 
• Furthermore, this bike is like a mountain bike, so you will need to get a different stem for more rise to raise the bars.

Specifications Of Mongoose Dolomite 

• Wheel Size : 26"
• Wheel width: 4" Wide
• Number Of Gears: 7
• Frame Material: Steel
• Brakes: Dual Mechanical Disc Brakes
• Impressive chain functionality.
• Extra-large tires offer ride stability.
• Aluminum frame reduces overall bike weight.
• Wide range of gears for an easy ride in hilly terrain.
• Easy to assemble.
• High-quality Shimano parts.
• The thin saddle is uncomfortable.

What we especially love about the Dolomite (and are sure you will too) is the fact that it comes between $300 and $400 and can hold the riders up to 350lbs. This is the best thing about this bike.

#11: The Chamois Hagar Force AXS

The Chamois Hagar Force AXS

• It comes with a 700c wheel size that enables better riding over smaller bumps.
• The matt black paint job truly radiates the evil aesthetics. 
• The XX1 rear derailleur of the bike handles the shifting on uneven surfaces with swift shifting time and clutch mechanism.

Look at this bike and tell me you didn't just feel the chills in your body. It is called an "Evil Bike," It gives out the Maleficent vibe with its discreet matt black paint job. 

The Chamois Hagar is specifically designed for those wild riders who go rogue on their destination and love to travel on gravel roads. 

Features Of Chamois Hagar Force AXS

• Unlike other gravel bikes that usually start as a road bike and then reach this designation, Evil started from a mountain bike and scaled up to where you see it now. 
• But, Evil is not a mountain bike; it somewhat redefines gravel bikes. 
• The geometry offers stability, making it one of the most sought-after bicycles for overweight people.

Specifications Of Chamois Hagar Force AXS

• Fork: Hagar carbon, 57mm offset
• Brakeset: SRAM Force
• Bar Tape: Evil Gravel
• Brake Type: flat-mount
• Tire Size: 700c x 50mm
• Amazing stability.
• Lightweight.
• Incredibly tough on bumpy roads.
• Average comfort while riding.

Various types of bike enthusiasts are out there who need the perfect bike for them. While some need a bike for training, others want to take long rides, and some are legit wild riders who consider their life an adventure. The Chamois Hagar Force AXS satisfies those desires and accompanies you in all your endeavors irrespective of your weight. 

Evil Bikes are the best bikes for obese adults or overweight people since their long reach keeps your weight behind the front wheel while adding stability to your rides. 

#12: Diamondback Sync'R  

Diamondback Sync'R

• The full carbon monocoque frame features spacing to increase stiffness.
• It comes with a 140mm Fox 34 Float Performance fork.
• The Shimano MT501 hydraulic disc brakes ensure an excellent braking system.

For a high-quality and fun sport like cycling, you may end up spending a lot of money. Thanks to a few manufacturers who launched some affordable bikes with high performance so that the bike can gradually upgrade with the rider and the rider can get it on a budget.

Diamondback Sync'R is an ideal choice for those backcountry trails due to its progressive geometry. And it makes for a worthy purchase since the bike can be used in more than one way. Let's explore its features and specifications to get a clear picture of this product.

Features Of Diamondback Sync'R  

• The FOX suspension provides stability and adjustability for your weight (even a heavy person) and riding style. 
• The carbon frame has a tapered headtube and comes with boost hub spacing. 

Specifications Of Diamondback Sync'R  

• Frame Material: carbon
• Brake Type: hydraulic disc
• Suspension: hardtail
• Stem: Diamondback "Tec"
• Tire Size: [front] 29 x 2.5in, [rear] 29 x 2.4in
• Chain: 12-speed
• Claimed weight: 29.1lb
• SRAM GX Eagle 1x11 drivetrain.
• Durable frame.
• Quality gearing.
• Great machine, perfect shifting , braking and cornering.
• Not suitable for beginners who wish to go mountain biking.

Not every fat person's bikes are mentioned or tagged as bikes for overweight individuals. Since we are giving away a list of bikes for fat people, we are also helping you understand the spec that allows an overweight person to ride that bike seamlessly. 

With Sync'R, you get the FOX suspension that assists a person with weight issues through stability and steady functioning. 

#13: Yeti Cycles SB140 

• Enduro and trail-focused bike when fun 27.5in wheels
• C-series level carbon offers lightweight and premium ride qualities
• Infinity Link suspension features an aggressive deep stroke leverage curve

Yeti is way too focused on speed. Their racing machines are pretty popular among athletes. While it drives the athletes to win the race, it also promotes stability. They have even categorized the SB140 as a bike ideal for having fun and exploring the different trails.

Features Of Yeti Cycles SB140

• The frame renders lightweight and premium ride qualities.
• SRAM GX AXS introduced electronic wireless shifting.
• Its frame comes with a lifetime warranty.
• The incredible features make it an all-rounder bike.

Specifications Of Yeti Cycles SB140 

• Frame Material: C-series carbon
• Fork: Fox Performance 36
• Suspension: Infinity Link
• Chainring Sizes: 30t
• Claimed weight: 31.3lb
• Fox suspension.
• 2.6″ wide Maxxis tires.
• The saddle is comfortable.
• The Maxxis may be sluggish.
• Not up to the mark if heavier riders are occupying the bike.

Even though they might underperform with heavy riders, you can opt to add larger rotors and RAM Code brakes for better results.

#14: IBIS Ripley GX Eagle 

IBIS Ripley GX Eagle

• Lightweight aluminum frame and fork designed for riding comfortably on unpaved roads.
• Clement X'Plor USH 700x35c tires handle well on gravel and pavement
•  Housed with Tektro lyra mechanical disc brakes offers great stopping power in different weather conditions.

Upgraded since its last model, Ripley has come forward with the Ibis GX Eagle but still features some of the previous specs from Ripmo. While the Ripley still portrays a fun bike that is more fun and better than its predecessor, the wheelbase and reach of the new model have been extended significantly.

Features Of IBIS Ripley GX Eagle 

• It radiates the rowdy persona of the rider, giving you the freedom to explore any terrain.
• The internal width rims (35mm) support up to 2.6in tires.
• It is one of the lightest bikes available in the market for bike enthusiasts like you. 
• The geometry of this bike keeps the bike stable on various trails. 
• The completely redesigned frame is up to date yet resembles a lot like the Ripmo.
• The front end and enhanced stability have resulted in amazing downhill performance.

Specifications Of  IBIS Ripley GX Eagle

• Rear Travel: 120mm
• Front Travel: 130mm
• Brake Type: 2-piston hydraulic
• Claimed Weight: [medium] 28.7lb, [large] 29.6lb
• Wheelset: Ibis S35 Aluminum
• Modern geometry.
• Exceptional downhill performance.
• Gear-shifting will require some time to adjust to.

This bike's build, structure, and geometry enhance both its downhill and climbing performance. The SRAM GX Eagle drivetrain has a huge impact on this feature, making it a fun ride. 

#15: Felt Verza Speed Fitness Road Bike 

Felt Verza Speed Fitness Road Bike

• The flat handlebar enables easy handling of the bike. 
• The 8-speed drivetrain with a triple crankset is the USP of this bike.

A hybrid commuter bike that is a noted brand known for fitness is the Felt Verza Speed Fitness Road Bike. With the only goal of providing the most comfortable rides, Felt Verza designed its bike with utmost dedication. These endurance road bikes are best suitable for working out, recreational purposes or commuting.

Features Of Felt Verza Speed Fitness Road Bike

• It comes with a wide variety of build and colors, from 20- Supernova black to 50 - Champagne pearl.
• It is also equipped with a stepover frame design that enables easy mounting and dismounting.
• The disc brakes render greater braking power with added security in any situation.

Specifications Of Felt Verza Speed Fitness Road Bike

• Classic: style rim brakes
• Wheels: 700c
• Drivetrain: 3 × 9 
• Brake Levers: Tektro
• Configurable shim system.
• Tubeless-ready wheels.
• Flat handlebar.
• The saddles are not that comfortable.

The Verza Speed 20, Verza Speed 40, Verza Speed 40- mid-step, Verza Speed 50, Verza Speed 50- mid-step is considered a fitness cycle for a reason. These speedy commuter bikes for people over 300 pounds can easily handle their weight and provide the ride with confidence and added visibility.

Safety Tips 

Now that you have a good idea of the best bikes for heavy people, you must always try to stay safe if and when you decide to acquire one.

Getting on a bike and hitting the trails might be an exciting experience, but it also comes with its share of risks.

So, to prevent any undesirable incidences, you want to take note of the following safety tips:

Brakes are an essential feature on your bicycle and could be the difference in what would have otherwise been a nasty collision. Unfortunately, brakes are prone to wear and tear, and as a result, tend to deteriorate down the line functionally. 

To be safe, you need to check up on them regularly and ensure that they are in the right shape. If you notice any worn-out parts, be sure to replace them whenever necessary for effective performance. 

Tire Pressure For Road Bikes

The tire pressure is another essential feature that goes a long way to determine the ride's comfort.

For a plus-size rider, it is recommended that you inflate the rear tire to the maximum upper pressure, while for the front tire, inflate it to a few psi less than the rear tire pressure. 

For instance, if you weigh 250lbs, you can try riding on 110psi on the rear tire and 105psi on the front tire and see how the ride feels. The difference in pressure helps to imitate your weight distribution at 60/40, providing you with a comfortable posture as you ride.

Read Next – Best Lightweight BMX Bikes

Frequently Asked Questions

What should i do to improve my biking experience.

Buying a bicycle with the right features doesn’t necessarily guarantee you a positive biking experience. There are a few adjustments that you can make to enhance the whole ordeal and achieve absolute bliss on the trail. Consider the following expert tips:

Choose the Brand Wisely

Always go for a reputable brand that specializes in the type of bike you are looking to buy. if you want to buy a mountain bike for heavyweight people, there are specialist manufacturers who will sell to you the appropriate product. .

While there may be other well-established brands, they may, unfortunately, miss out on a few features that will mess up the whole experience for a plus-size individual.

Steer Clear of Department Store Bikes

Even though the bikes you come across in a department store may look attractive, they usually lack the quality you’d want in a big guy bike. In fact, the majority of these bikes are put together by people with limited knowledge of bike assembly, resulting in a product with a short shelf life.

Upgrade the Components

More often than not, you won’t find all the attributes and features you are looking for in an individual bike. As a result, you might be forced to spend extra to fully customize your newly acquired bike.

Whether it is the pedals, saddle, tires, or gears, your local bike shop can upgrade all the parts necessary according to your preferences. It is also possible to conduct the upgrades on your own if you have sufficient technical knowledge, but I suggest consulting an expert bike mechanic, just to be sure!

What bikes are good for heavy riders?

• Diamondback OverDrive 29
• Diamondback Haanjo 3
• Addmotor MOTAN
• Schwinn Discover Hybrid Bike

What is the maximum weight a bike can take?

Bikes, in general, can hold up to 300 pounds of weight at a speed of 10 miles per hour at the ground. However, there are few factors to consider when you are carrying an extra amount of load on bikes, such as the distribution of the load as well as tires, wheels, and the material of the bike.

What is a good bike for a 300-pound man?

The best bike is the Diamondback Overdrive 29er. It is a mountain bike that is specifically designed for 300lbs men. The bike is designed with a durable aluminum steel frame to handle the weight of heavy men while cycling.

Can you be too heavy to ride a bike?

The bikes are generally designed for people who weigh under 220 pounds. The warranty for such bikes is voided is the rider is very heavy. Get a bike that is designed for heavy people if you weigh more than 220 pounds.

Are fat tire bikes better for heavy riders?

There are very few options but you can consider buying Mongoose Dolomite and Framed Minnesota. These bikes can handle heavyweight riders with ease.

Can you lose weight riding a bike?

Of course, it is a very good source of cardio workout. It can help you boost your fitness, heart, and lung health, and also improve your blood circulation. It can also help you build up your muscle's strength and lose stress.

What is too heavy for a road bike?

Everything over 90 pounds is heavy for a road bike. There are many bikes like gravel, cyclocross that can manage weight more than that.

Conclusion 

Someone with a passion for riding bikes or winter cycling should never back down due to their weight. An overweight individual’s first question would be, “How much weight can a bike hold” or, “What is the best bicycle for a heavy person.”

Well, we have answered both of your queries, and we hope this article succeeded in encouraging you to go out and enjoy riding your favorite bike irrespective of your heaviness. So, take the plunge, riders; this is not the time to be shy but to shine. 

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Heaviest Duty | The 10 Heaviest Motorcycles of 2022

Which motorcycles have been benching some serious weight... and/or raiding the fridge? Here is a rundown of the 10 Heaviest Motorcycles you can buy today

The recent launch of BMW’s new R 18 cruiser-based ‘full dress’ tourer, the Transcontinental, which, like many motorcycles of this type comes equipped with everything up to the kitchen sink and thus can be measured using the equivalent of household appliances as the value.

Big weight and heft are generally the foe of the average biker, making motorcycles more lethargic off the mark and wallow through the bends, but sometimes the chunk is just part of the beefy performance figures.

With 125cc or less motorcycles so light you can almost lift them up and carry them yourself, this rundown looks at the more portly, ‘big-boned’ motorcycles that is proud of its curves.

10. Suzuki GSX-1300R Hayabusa [Weight: 264kg] 

Hugely anticipated and all-new for 2021 Suzuki’s 1340cc hyperbike is many things: with 187bhp it’s phenomenally powerful and delivers a straightline rush like nothing else. 

However, at a whopping 264kg fuelled and with Kawasaki’s rival ZZR1400 and its even heavier touring version the 1400GTR (315kg) no more, it’s also the heaviest of the current breed of high tech sports tourers…

9. Yamaha Niken GT [Weight: 267kg] 

Yes, it may be only 900cc (due to its MT-09 underpinnings) but due to its extra wheel and radical, leaning suspension system (plus also the small fact that the FJR1300 - 292kg - is now no more), the funky, leaning three-wheeler Niken, especially in panniered and tall screened ‘GT’ form, is also currently Yamaha’s heaviest production bike, which is probably part of the reason why it hasn’t caught on. 

Yes, there are other heavyweight three-wheelers or trikes around, most notably Harley’s Freewheeler and TriGlide (which is a whopping 564kg) but they don’t lean so aren’t really motorcycles so aren’t included here. Complaints on a post card to…

8. Energica Ego [Weight: 282kg]

These new-fangled electric bikes are heavy, right? It’s all down to those big, hefty batteries they have to lug around. But which is the heaviest? 

That honour goes, not to Harley’s headline-grabbing Livewire (which is 251kg) but to Italian brand Energica and its superbike-style Ego. The Ego may be blisteringly fast, certainly in terms of 0-60 acceleration and also a decent handler and well equipped with TFT, modes, Brembos and more. 

But it’s also back-breakingly heavy. The new, even pricier RS version, by the way, is slightly lighter – but not by much…

7. Honda VFR1200X Crosstourer DCT [Weight: 287kg]

But the heaviest is the one most people have forgotten about. Based on Honda’s short-lived, V4, shaft-drive VFR1200F, which itself was universally criticised for being too heavy, the ‘adventure style’ (‘cos it’s not really meant to go off road) Crosstourer is heavier still, especially in novel, semi-automatic DCT form. 

It’s not a bad bike, but the weight is a major reason why it’s never been as popular as hoped…

6. Triumph Rocket 3 GT [Weight: 305kg]

Triumph’s original Rocket III three-cylinder cruiser, as launched in 2004 with 2294cc and weighing a whopping 367kg was an absolute monster which is why the all-new version launched last year, weighing over 60kg less but still with 165bhp, impressive electronics and even more impressive handling, is almost miraculous – but it’s still a hefty bike. 

That said, it’s actually impressively light when you consider the unique performance, presence and experience it brings…

5. Honda GL1800 Gold Wing DCT [Weight: 390kg] 

Yes of course the Gold Wing figures in this list. Honda’s big flat four then later flat six tourer has always been a heavyweight, especially in later GL1500 full-dresser form which proved so successful it dominated its class. 

Instead the real surprise is how low the latest version comes down the rankings – and that’s all due to the massive weight reduction achieved with the current example when introduced in 2018. 

The latest version remains a phenomenal tourer with a space age specification, but the highest specced of all (and thus the heaviest) is the Gold Wing Tour DCT with full luggage pack and semi-automatic transmission. It’s not cheap, either, at over £30K…

4. BMW R 18 Transcontinental [Weight: 398kg]

The monster US-style BMW R 18 Transcontinental full-dresser is a new entry coming right in at Number 4

In truth, the new R 18 Transcontinental is impressive in many ways: the R 18 cruiser on which its based already impressed for its monster air/oil cooled 1800cc boxer engine and slick heritage/cruiser style and finish./

All of that also, of course, adds to its weight, which is why its fourth in our list – significantly more than BMW’s own, six cylinder K1600GT,  (which is 348kg).

3. Indian Roadmaster Limited [Weight: 412kg]

It’s fair to say revived US brand Indian has done a decent job of competing with Harley-Davidson since, under new Polaris ownership, it came out with its first all-new bikes in 2014 but much of its definition of being ‘better’ has been down to being ‘bigger’. 

Based around the massive ‘Thunderstroke’ 1811cc V-twin, Indian’s big twins include the Chief cruiser, Chieftain bagger and, biggest of the lot, the Roadmaster full-dresser. And, boy, is it big! There’s a lot to like – sumptuous comfort, loads of luggage space, bags of grunt and a slick, integrated, TFT dash-controlled ‘infotainment’ system. 

2. Harley-Davidson CVO Limited [Weight: 428kg]

Yes, a ‘big old’ Harley full dresser is vying for heaviest bike of all – but it’s not the one you might expect. 

So, while the latest version of the classic ElectraGlide, the now £27K, 1868cc, TFT-equipped UltraLimited weighs in at 416kg, that’s not the end of the story. You could also go with the latest Road Glide Limited, with bigger frame-mounted fairing, larger front wheel etc which is heavier still at 423kg. 

While the heaviest of the lot is also the most expensive, the top spec, hand-made, luxuriously-equipped CVO Limited which has all the goodies HD can think of, special paint, back rests, more powerful engine etc which all adds up to 428kg and a price of £37,495. Gulp. 

1. Boss Hoss V8 [Weight: 500+kg]

And finally… last but by no means least (depending on how you look at it) comes the heaviest, and probably most contentious of all. The Corvette V8 powered Boss Hoss is unquestionably the heaviest bike in production (and probably also the silliest and ugliest). 

The contentious bit is ‘in production’. A typically American oddball first produced in 1993 complete with 355bhp, the Boss Hoss is not officially brought into the UK and would probably fall foul of a million regulations if it were. 

But as we write it is still being produced in Tennessee (in both bike and trike form), it is possible to import one into the UK (although surely you’ve got better things to do with your money) and there are used examples on the road over here. 

Our advice, though, is: just don’t

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10 Best Touring Bikes under $1000 in 2024

If you’re on a budget, you can get a high-quality touring bike for $1000 or less. There are plenty of options available, and we’ve put together the best selection of budget touring bikes for you.

The best touring bikes under 1000 dollars will feature a sturdy steel frame, slack head tube angle, long wheelbase, long chain stays, low bottom bracket, and incredible ride quality with good handling.

Touring bikes are great for multi-day trips on the trail and bike-packing to explore the countryside. It’s an exciting adventure, but you need to carry a lot of gear, which is why it’s very crucial to get a bike that’s specially built to withstand the strain of touring.

What makes a good touring bike?

Bikes made especially for touring are built to be stable and comfortable on a variety of terrain, while hauling a lot of luggage. 

When you’re carrying a considerable load and riding on different terrains, the frame material, bike’s geometry and the components will all have a significant impact on how the bike rides and feels. 

Generally, most touring bikes are made of steel and feature a frame with a long wheelbase, slack frame angles and long chainrings. These features contribute to easier steering, stability and balance of the bike, even with a heavy load.

Lastly, touring bikes tend to be more comfortable to ride for long hours, and they have features like a comfortable saddle, ergonomic grips, and a suspension fork that can absorb shock and vibrations. These bikes also include extra features like fenders and panniers, or provide space to mount them.

10 Best Touring Bikes under $1000

• Tommaso La Forma: See at Amazon
• Mongoose Elroy: See at Amazon
• Sixthreezero EvryJourney Steel Men: See at Amazon
• Sixthreezero EvryJourney Steel Women: See at Amazon
• Schwinn Discover: See at Amazon
• Zizzo Forte folding bike: See at Amazon
• Schwinn Loop Folding Bike: See at Amazon  
• Schwinn Wayfarer: See at Amazon
• Tommaso Sentiero: See at Amazon
• Huffy Panama Jack: See at Amazon
• Schwinn Sporterra: See at Amazon

Related Posts

• 11 Best Commuter Bikes Under $200
• 9 Best Commuter Bikes Under $300
• Top 8 Best Road Bikes Under $200

Tommaso La Forma

Key Features

• Frame material: Aluminum
• Brake type: Cantilever Rim Brakes
• Bike weight: 25 lbs
• Warranty: Lifetime frame and fork warranty
• See more on Amazon

The elegant and expertly-made Tommaso La Forma bike delivers top-notch performance for the cost. It’s a robust and versatile bike perfect for long commutes and road trips. The core is a lightweight and compact aluminum frame with a HCT Carbon fork for dampening road vibrations and ensuring smoother rides.

The La Forma is  ideal for daily commuting or city tours, it feels and rides great as a hybrid or touring bike. The extra-wide tires that provide stability and traction, the compact frame and upright geometry put riders in a comfortable riding position, while the flat handlebars provide amazing comfort, making riding pleasant and exciting.

This bike may not have the complete touring bike setup, but its frame is drilled for all varieties of racks and fenders, so you can easily complete the setup to suit your style. 

Price at time of publication: $637

Mongoose Elroy

• Brake type: Mechanical disc brakes
• Bike weight: 30 lbs
• Warranty: Limited Lifetime Warranty

Mongoose Elroy is built for bikepacking, touring, camping and exploring nature with tons of features, so you can carry everything you need on your trips. It has an elegant alloy frame, a trail-taming steel fork, and adaptable bike geometry.

As a versatile touring bike, it has a huge pannier-friendly front rack, and the potential to carry even more weight thanks to a handy rear rack mount. You also get 3 unique water bottle cage mounts to keep you hydrated as you tour the countryside.

The Elroy will easily handle hills and not-so-friendly trails thanks to the wide 700c alloy rims and large 40c tires, reliable Tourney derailleurs, 14-speed shifters and mechanical disc brakes that stop on a dime.

Mongoose may have left out fenders, but they didn’t neglect to include fender mounts, so you can mount them if you absolutely need to.

Price at time of publication: $581

Sixthreezero Evry Journey Steel

• Frame material: Aluminum frame
• Brake type: front and rear rim brakes
• Bike weight: 38 lbs
• Warranty: 1 year

The Sixthreezero Evryjourney is a multipurpose bike model suitable for riders between 5’ and 6′ 4″ tall.  This bike can support a maximum weight of 300 pounds, with a lightweight step-through aluminum. It’s a very comfortable bike, thanks to the comfy saddle and swept-back handlebars.

It’s a hybrid bike with features that make it a great choice for touring, commuting or recreational riding. And it has a 7-speed derailleur with smooth shifting, a rear rack for pannier bags, and fenders that keep mud and dirt off your clothes. 

The upright riding position of this bike lets you keep your back straight while riding, which allows for a more natural riding experience that prevents body pains on long rides.

This bike model weighs 38.1lbs and is 80% assembled when it is delivered, making it very easy to put together. 

This is a gender-specific bike, and you can check out the Evry Journey Steel Women

Price at time of publication: $599-$946

Schwinn Discover

Key features

• Brake type: Linear pull
• Bike weight: 36.6 lbs
• Warranty: Lifetime

The Schwinn Discover Hybrid Bike is the perfect partner for those looking to traverse both inclined and flat terrains with comfort and ease. The lightweight frame is composed of aluminum alloy with a fit geometry design and fitted for most adults up to 67–70 inches tall. 

With a total weight of 36.6 lbs, this hybrid bike offers a safe and stable ride with its 28-inch aluminum alloy rims and non-slip rubber tires. 

A front suspension fork absorbs road bumps in even rough terrains, while the well-padded seat atop a city rise adjustable stem with back-swept handlebars ensures a comfortable and ergonomic posture while riding. 

The front and rear linear pull brakes offer precise, reliable stopping power and speed control in all conditions, while the 21-speed twist shifters allow for smooth gear changes to adjust to incline, decline or meandering terrain. Enjoy a lifetime warranty with the Schwinn Discover Hybrid Bike!

Price at time of publication: $349-$779

Schwinn Loop Folding Bike 

• Brake type: Linear Pull Brakes
• Bike weight: 34 lbs

The Schwinn Loop folding bike is a portable and easy-to-ride bike with a premium build-quality and budget-friendly price tag. The bike is relatively lightweight and compact, taking only 10 seconds to fold, and it folds small for easy storage.

The 20″ alloy wheels, with 30 spokes, contribute to its stability and balance, while the seat can be adjusted for comfort and convenience. It also has reliable linear-pull brakes for safe stops and 7-speed twist shifter that provide smooth gear changes. 

The Schwinn Loop is ideal for a work commute, camping trips or a casual weekend ride around town. Plus, the integrated rear rack makes it super easy to carry a backpack, groceries, or whatever else you need to take on your ride.

This bike delivers a degree of performance that is astounding and easily competitive with many bikes that cost hundreds more.

Price at time of publication: $465

Schwinn Wayfarer

• Frame material: Steel
• Bike weight: 35.9 lbs
• Warranty: Limited lifetime

The Schwinn Wayfarer Hybrid Bike is the perfect choice for a leisure and comfortable ride. Its steel frame and steel fork are robust yet responsive to your pedaling, with 18-inch step-over and 16-inch step-through frames available. 

The bike weighs 35.9lbs, and its 28-inch wheels provide a smooth and stable ride. The full wrap fenders provide protection from both rain and dirt, keeping you clean and dry no matter the weather. 

The swept-back handlebars make for an upright, comfortable position that’s also easier on your back. The 7-speed twist shifters and rear derailleur are easy to use and allow for precise gear changes. 

Additionally, its alloy linear pull brakes offer a quick and efficient stopping power on different surfaces and in all types of weather. The Schwinn Wayfarer Hybrid Bike is the ideal ride for easygoing, flat terrain.

Price at time of publication: $364-$480

Zizzo Forte Heavy-duty folding bike

• Brake type: V-style brakes
• Bike weight: 28 lbs
• Warranty: Limited Lifetime Frame warranty

The ZiZZO Forte is a heavy-duty folding bike with sturdy rims and excellent tires. It is made of a lightweight aluminum frame and has durable Shimano components. It has an adjustable handlebar stem and seat post height, providing maximum comfort for paved road and trail riding.

A water bottle mount, front fender, back storage rack, rear fender, kickstand, and V brake system are all included in the setup. The Forte is a 20″ foldable bike with a 300 lb weight capability and has an adjustable stem to fit riders from under 5 ft to over 6 ft 3.

The bike comes completely assembled. The folding mechanism takes some time to figure out, but is ultimately quite easy. The bike is designed for heavier riders or those who want to haul an extra load, and it’s a perfect bike for RV camping. 

Price at time of publication: $446 – $560

Tommaso Sentiero

• Brake type: Disc Brakes
• Bike weight: 25.9 lbs
• Warranty: Lifetime Frame & Fork Warranty

The Tommaso Sentiero is a gravel bike with an aluminum frame, high-quality components, and built for difficult terrain, including flat, steep, and rocky climbs. 

It has a wide variety of gears for all levels of cyclists, with 28-spoke rims and extra-wide tires that are ideal for dirt trail touring. It sports a 3×8 Shimano Claris Groupset and mechanical disc brakes for added stopping power in all weather conditions.

The Sentiero has a fully customizable frame, so you can add rack, fenders and any other accessories you desire. The compact frame geometry and drop bars deliver more power and comfort in an elegant package.

It’s an adventure bike made for cyclists who desire to discover all that a bicycle is capable of.

Price at time of publication: $807

Huffy Panama Jack

• Brake type: Linear Pull
• Bike weight: 48.62 lbs
• Warranty: Limited 10-Year Frame Warranty

The Huffy Panama Jack is a cruiser bike with loads of fantastic features, and can also double as a touring bike with a sturdy frame and rear rack for extra load. It has a retro-style design with an upright frame geometry and wide flat bars that ensure comfort and makes long rides enjoyable.

The design of the frame provides more comfort for better rides; it positions the seat farther back with a lower center of gravity; and the swept-back handlebars allow for a more upright, comfortable riding position with full leg extension.

And it has a 6-speed derailleur with smooth shifting, and lightweight alloy linear pull brakes with alloy wheel rims to deliver smooth stopping power.

Panama Jack has a ton of extra features and accessories that only add to the fun; a roomy cooler bag, cupholder, bottle opener, even front and rear fenders to serve as splash guards.

Price at time of publication: $460

Schwinn Sporterra

The Schwinn Sporterra is another excellent gravel-adventure bike that’s great for touring. It has an aluminum frame with a rigid fork, and 14 speeds with Shimano shifter/derailleur that provide quick gear changes to easily adapt to varied terrain.

This bike also comes with double-wall aluminum wheels and multi-terrain tires that smoothly roll over gravel and dirt, plus mechanical disc brakes that ensure precise and accurate braking.

Another thoughtful feature of the Sporterra is the quick release seat post for simple saddle height adjustment for a customized fit without the need for tools. This bike is one of the better possibilities for its price range.

Although the touring bike setup is not complete without rear racks, you can buy and mount a rear rack.

Price at time of publication: $585 – $837

Touring Bike Buying Guide: How to choose a touring bike

Below are some of the most important things to keep in mind when choosing a good touring bike for your travels. 

Frame material

The frame is the bike’s backbone, so it’s crucial to choose a frame that is sturdy, comfortable, and correctly sized for your body. Look for a frame made of durable materials that can withstand the demands of touring, such as steel or aluminum.

Generally speaking, touring bikes can be made of any frame material, but steel tends to be the best choice because of its durability and resilience. 

Steel is very strong and has no problem with carrying loads of weight. It’s also easy to repair damages, and you can fix a steel bike just about anywhere. This is not to say that touring bikes made of Aluminum are less appealing, of course not! 

Aluminum frames are known to be lighter than steel and just as durable, and they are great for budget bikes. 

The geometry of a touring bike should provide stability, balance and good handling on the road, even while carrying a heavy load. 

It should also promote an upright riding position for more comfort in the saddle during long distance rides. Bikes with a shorter reach and riser stem helps put the rider in a comfy upright position. 

Often, the frame geometry of touring bikes will include a longer wheelbase, as this allows for more stability and better steering. Also, because of the longer wheelbase, it is less likely that your pedal stroke will be impeded by fenders or your load.

You also need to think of the handlebars, touring bikes can have flat handlebars or drop handlebars, anyone is okay, but think of your preference. Flat handlebars tend to be wider, which is great for stability and better handling. 

But, drop handlebars allow riders to shift their body posture while riding, so they can use different muscles and minimize exhaustion during lengthy rides.

Also, the bike is more stable and more comfortable to ride when the frame is long, since longer frames are better at absorbing vibration.

Wheels & tires

Wheels are generally very important in bikes, but even more so in touring bikes because of the amount of weight you will probably carry with you on your tours. Therefore, the wheels have to be very sturdy with high-quality rims and a minimum of 32 spokes, since the number of spokes contribute to the strength of the wheel. 36-spoke wheels will be much better if you tend to carry a lot of load.

You also have to consider the wheel size. The best wheel size for touring bikes are 700c or 650b, which are also known as 29-inches and 26-inches, respectively. The tires you fit to the wheels are of equal importance. 

650b wheels are usually wider, stronger and high-volume tires, which are great for off-road riding. They provide better grip, maintain maximum traction on rough trails, and help with shock absorption. While 700c wheels fit skinnier tires, they have the advantage of picking up speed much faster, which results in faster rides. 

Also, the tires on your touring bike should be wide, puncture-resistant and have tread patterns to provide better traction on a variety of roads. Wider tires are better for touring because they are stronger and provide cushioning for more comfort in the saddle.

Not finding the exact wheel size or type you want in a budget touring is not a dealbreaker because you can very easily upgrade them to your preferred wheels. 

Touring bikes should have a range of gears to handle a variety of terrains and inclines. Look for a bike with at least 7-speeds, since it will be good for rolling hills that are not too steep and long. 

If your route has very steep inclines, then you may consider getting a bike with 21 or 27 gears, a triple chainring in the front, and a large cassette in the rear.

You’ll need reliable and strong brakes for touring to let you stop safely on steep climbs or in poor weather. Disc brakes provide significantly greater all-weather consistency and much stronger braking on a loaded bicycle. 

Although disc brakes are becoming more popular for touring bikes, classic rim brakes may also be efficient.

Quality components

When making a new purchase, you want to get your money’s worth, which is why getting a durable bike with high-quality components is a must. Every part of the bike you choose should be built to serve you well and last for many years. Nobody wants a bike that will fall apart after the first few rides. 

The frame, wheels, fork, brakes, gears, handlebars and every major component should be high-quality and durable. Also check for the warranty information (and how good the customer service is) before you make the final decision on a bike. 

Additional features: racks and fenders

Touring bikes should have front or rear racks, or at least include rack mounts so that you may connect panniers or other equipment. This will make it easier to transport your gear while you journey through the countryside. 

You will also need fenders (or mudguards) in case you find yourself travelling through dirt roads in rainy weather. And finally, a bottle cage will make it easier to stay hydrated on your trip. 

Can you use any bike for touring?

Although there are bikes specially designed for touring, almost any type of bike can be used for touring. Except for road bikes, gravel bikes, hybrid bikes, mountain bikes can all be used for touring.

A good bike for touring should be durable, have multiple gears, sturdy wheels and wide tires, and allow for a comfortable riding position. It should also have racks and fenders, or at least you should be able to install them on the bike.

What is the difference between a touring bike and a road bike?

The major difference between a touring bike and a road bike is that a touring bike is built to carry loads well, withstand the rigors of touring, and allow the rider to remain comfortable in an upright riding position for extended rides.

While road bikes, on the other hand, prioritize lightweight and speed, good handling and pedaling efficiency, and longer reach for more aggressive and aerodynamic riding position.

Can you use a road bike for touring?

It’s possible to use any bike for touring, even road bikes. However, there are reasons why touring bikes exist. Touring bikes are designed to remain stable and comfortable even with a lot of load, and you can’t say the same for road bikes.

Touring bikes can also handle a broad range of roads and terrain, while road bikes are best suited for paved roads.

If you intend to spend days or weeks on the road with a bike while carrying all the supplies you need, a touring bike will be the best option for you.

Do touring bikes have gears?

Yes, touring bikes will always have gears, often from 7 to 21 gears, so you can change your speed to better adjust your riding efficiency for flat roads or sloped terrain. 

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