khartoum travel

• 1.1 By plane
• 1.3 By train
• 1.5 By boat
• 2.1 By taxi
• 2.2 By minibus
• 2.4 By three-wheeled taxis
• 2.5 By boat
• 3.1 Khartoum (الخرطوم)
• 3.2 Omdurman
• 3.3 Bahri (Khartoum North)
• 4.2 Cultural centers
• 4.3 In the evening
• 5.1 Khartoum
• 5.2 Omdurman
• 5.3 Khartoum North (Bahri)
• 6.2 Khartoum 2
• 6.3 East of the airport
• 6.5 Downtown
• 6.6 Omdurman
• 8.2 Mid-range
• 8.3 Splurge
• 9.1 Registration and other legal requirements
• 9.2 Embassies and consulates

Khartoum (Arabic: الخرطوم Al-Khartum ) is the capital of Sudan and is located where the Blue and White Niles merge to form the Nile. The huge, spread-out city is actually made out of three distinct cities ( Khartoum , Khartoum North or Bahri , and Omdurman ) which are divided by the Nile and its two arms. The Blue Nile flows between Khartoum and Bahri, the White Nile between Khartoum and Omdurman, and the merged Nile between Bahri and Omdurman. The confluence of the Blue and White Nile, known as Al-Mogran, lies just north of the bridge between Khartoum and Omdurman.

Khartoum proper is the seat of the Sudanese government and is the largest of the three cities. The older part of the city lies beside the White Nile while the newer parts, such as Al-Amarat and Khartoum Two, spread out to the south, across the railway line and the ring road, and around the airport runway. The city, both the old part and its newer extensions, is laid out mostly in a grid. Omdurman has a more Middle Eastern atmosphere with maze-like streets and is home to the huge Souq Omdurman. Bahri is largely industrial and residential.

Get in [ edit ]

By plane [ edit ].

Sudan's national carrier Sudan Airways [dead link] links Khartoum and several African and regional capitals, and with Sudan's domestic airports at Port Sudan, Nyala, El-Fashir, Malakal, Juba, Dongola, Wadi Halfa and El-Obeid.

Go early as the airport can get a bit chaotic. Be prepared for long waits and queue cutting. Immigration checks and other security checks can also take a long time. No departure tax should be paid anymore, as it's included in a ticket price.

There is a bank facility to change money open during the night when there are flights.

Getting to town: the airport is located close to the city in Al-Amarat. Taxi fare from Khartoum airport to city was a fixed SDG 100 in 2015. You can also walk out to the main road about 200 m from the airport terminal and catch minibuses that cruise along the road. Alternatively you can book a metered taxi.

By bus [ edit ]

The chaotic Souq al-Shaabi used to be the main bus terminal for long distance south-bound buses in Khartoum, but a new terminal 15.527252 32.543585 2 Khartoum Land terminal (Meena al Barre) has been built which is more orderly. Buses leave for Port Sudan, Wad Medani, Kassala, El-Obeid, Karima (8 hr, SGD 275), Gedarif (6 hr, SGD 275) and other cities. Again, there are no buses to southern Sudan.

Buses from Aswan travel 24 hours, 450 EGP.

Buses to Atbara depart from 15.624028 32.543778 3 Khartoum North Bus Station (also known as Shendi Bus Station).

By train [ edit ]

Rail services to Khartoum are limited, but investment have brought hopes of a rejuvenation of train travel. There is the daily Nile Express from Atbara as well as services three times per day from Wad Madani . Older, more infrequent trains run from Port Sudan , Wadi Halfa - for connections with ferries from Egypt - and even Nyala . There main station is 15.633771 32.540583 4 Khartoum North (Bahri) .

By car [ edit ]

The main tarred road goes south from Khartoum to Wad Medani then east to Gedaref (for the Ethiopian border at Gallabat ), Kassala (for the Eritrean border, which is closed) and then to Port Sudan. South from Khartoum, a road also goes to El-Obeid, which then continues west towards the Chadian border via Darfur, which is a bit dangerous to use. From the north, the road comes in from Wadi Halfa via Atbara.

There are no road links to southern Sudan. The only option is to fly.

By boat [ edit ]

There are no boat services along the Nile to destinations outside Khartoum.

Get around [ edit ]

Khartoum is both easy and difficult to get around. It is easy in that much of the city is laid out on a grid, with long straight roads and the airport and Nile as easy reference places. It is difficult in that the city (or indeed the 3 cities) are very spread out, making walking a long and tiring option.

Maps are hard to come by, but Google Earth offers some good high-resolution images.

By taxi [ edit ]

These come in three varieties; bright yellow and often beaten up Toyota Corollas Model 1977, small 6-seater minivans, and more modern metered taxis.

Fair "foreigner" prices for taxis are roughly: SDG 17.50 plus SDG 4.61 per km.

Crossing the river will usually double the price.

Most taxi drivers speak no English, can't read maps, and often can't read Arabic either; they often even have little idea about Khartoum's geography, especially about other parts of the city to where you pick him up.

• LimoTrip , ☏ +249 18 359 1313 , [email protected] . Air conditioned metered taxis with two-way radio.  

By minibus [ edit ]

Minibuses are the cheapest way to get around Khartoum, especially between the three cities. There are easily thousands of minibuses and seeing all of them gather near the Great Mosque and Souk al-Arabi is a sight to behold. They are however quite complicated to use. None of them bear destination signs and you will have to be able to speak a little Arabic with their conductors to determine which minibus to take. They are also always packed to the brim. Fares are SDG 3-5 (June 2017).

Most of the minibuses leave from the square near the Great Mosque (Mesjid al-Kabir) or nearby in Khartoum proper.

Describing Khartoum's traffic as chaotic is a bit of an understatement. The economic boom has put many more cars on the road, although driving attitudes have not changed, resulting in almost comical chaos at intersections. As Khartoum is laid out in a grid, there are many intersections for cars from all directions to barge in to fight for space. Having said that, the slow speed of vehicles ensures that they are very few major accidents, at least in the city. If you are not used to such driving conditions, it is better to resort to taxis.

Car hire is available and costs a bit above the African average. However if you want to head off in to the desert the costs mount further, as the 100 km is standard, and then there is an additional charge per kilometre. Fuel costs around SDG 27 (US$4.20) per litre (Nov 2016). ‘Limousine’ is the Arabic word for car hire – try along Airport Road or Ibed Khetim Road (east of the airport) for car hire places.

By three-wheeled taxis [ edit ]

Called "bajaj" (like in India) or "raksha", they are cheaper than taxis but more expensive than buses so less than SDG 5 per trip. They are best used for short trips within each of Khartoum's three cities. It is better to use taxis or minibuses if you have to cross the Nile to travel between the three cities.

There are no ferry services between the three cities as they are well connected by road bridges.

There is a ferry service between Khartoum proper and Tuti Island, a rural islet in the middle of the Blue Nile. In Khartoum, boats leave from the river bank along Nile Street opposite the Friendship Hall to the west of the city center. A ferry also runs between Tuti and Omdurman (except on Fridays)

See [ edit ]

Khartoum (الخرطوم) [ edit ].

• Nile Street or Shari'a Al-Nilشارع النيل الخرطوم: Probably the prettiest street in Khartoum. With the Blue Nile on one side, the street is lined with pretty, albeit decaying-looking, colonial buildings, most of which are used as ministries, schools and even a hotel, the Grand Holiday Villa Khartoum. The Presidential Palace, also fronting the Blue Nile, is a pretty building but you will not be allowed to walk in front of it - the guards will ask you to cross the road and proceed behind and around the building. You will also see the modern side of Khartoum along this street - the egg-shaped, Libyan-owned Al-Fateh Tower; Chinese-built Friendship Hall. The National Museum is also along Nile Street. The road is tree-lined most of the way (except towards the west) and has a sidewalk, so walking is quite pleasant. Many people sit on the concrete walls along the river.
• 15.608 32.529035 1 Sudan Presidential Palace Museum . This museum is located in the grounds of the Presidential Palace and is housed in the impressive century old Palace Cathedral. The palace contains many relics and pieces related to Sudan's administrative and modern political history, from paintings of Sir Gordon Pasha to the Presidential cars of more recent rulers.  
• The Changing of the Guard : This is a ceremony held on the first Friday of every month, where the Black Guard and the White Guard of the Presidential Palace swap over. The ceremony is performed near the South Gate of the palace.
• 15.614938 32.492122 2 Confluence of the Blue and White Nile . If you have the stamina, you will reach the confluence of the two branches of the Nile if you continue walking west along Nile Street for about 3–4 km from the Presidential Palace. The confluence is called Al-Mogran and it is best seen from the metal bridge (the old one, not the newer concrete one) linking Khartoum and Omdurman or Al-Mogran Family Park . It is said that one can actually see the two different colours from the different branches come together and flow separately for a distance downriver before mixing together. The Al-Mogran Family Park , which has a Ferris wheel and other rides, is located near the bridge. Warning: There is a signboard saying "no photos" from the bridge. Please heed it as people have been arrested for taking photos of the confluence! ( updated Jan 2019 )
• 15.602342 32.524526 3 Souq Arabi . If you want to see crowds and action, this is the place. The commercial heart of town, Souq Arabi (Arabian Market) can provide everything you need (see "Buy" section for more details on shopping options). The market is huge and spread over several squares in the center of Khartoum proper just south of the Great Mosque (Mesjid al-Kabir) and the minibus station. Come here to see Khartoumites go about their daily lives.  
• 15.60799 32.534237 5 Sudan Ethnographic Museum . A fascinating little museum on the corner of Al Gamaa street and Mak Nemir Avenue. This museum explores the various cultures and traditions of Sudan's numerous ethnic groups. Displays range from intricate handicrafts to models of traditional homes. This museum is certainly worth a visit, if you have the time.  

Omdurman [ edit ]

• 15.649178 32.482431 9 Souq Omdurman . Said to be one of the largest markets in Africa and you can get handicrafts here. The handicraft street is quite difficult to find - it is towards the northern end of the market, near the gold section (not on the western side, as stated in the Bradt guide). The street is actually a covered lane between two buildings with gates at either end. Its not very busy (in comparison with the rest of the market) and they can lock up and go home in the evenings, and sometimes on Fridays also. ( updated Jan 2012 )
• 15.639008 32.488503 11 The Khalifa's House ( next to the Mahdi's tomb and walking distance from Souq Omdurman ). The museum shuts early (somewhere between 13:00 and 14:00 is usual) . Abdullah al-Taaisha, also known as "The Khalifa" succeeded as leader of the Mahdists on the death of the Mahdi. His house is now a museum and is worth a visit if you want to get a flavour of Omdurman's history. Exhibits include various remnants from old battles and some interesting old British newspaper clippings reporting the British efforts in the Sudan. costs SDG 1 . ( updated Jan 2012 )
• 15.625714 32.463297 12 Sufi dancing ( aka dhikr/whirling dervishes ). Starts around 4-5PM . Rightly recommended as a must do for visitors to Khartoum. Every Friday (except during Ramadan) tourists and visiting foreign aid workers flock to the Hamed al-Nil tomb with cameras in hand. A very colourful and noisy celebration. Its about 2 km south of the Omdurman souq - ask your taxi driver to go to Ghobba al-Hamed al-Nil. Free . ( updated Jan 2012 )

Bahri (Khartoum North) [ edit ]

• 15.646386 32.561556 13 Bombed Al-Shifa pharmaceutical factory . a fascinating place to explore, and well off the Khartoum tourist trail (if Khartoum even has such a thing). Tomahawked in 1998 the remains are an eerie reminder of Sudan's precarious relationship with the West. It's quite easy to reach - get a minibus to Bahri, then get a taxi. The guards are quite friendly and will let you in for a wander - a contribution would be gratefully received.  
• 15.614381 32.645128 14 Nuba Wrestling . Every Friday at 16:00 two teams of wrestlers battle it out in front of several hundred spectators – and it certainly is quite a spectacle and well worth the trip. Finishes around 18:00 and cost SDG 2. It’s about 12 km from central Khartoum next to souq Sita Al Haj Yousef – best get a taxi there but you can easily find a bus back to al-Arabi in central Khartoum for SDG 3-5.  

Do [ edit ]

Clubs [ edit ].

There are many professional and international clubs spread around the three cities. Providing for sport, cultural activities or simply a place to meet, they are a lively remnant of British influence.

• Greek club . Khartoum 2, entrance off Mak Nimir Ave. The hideout of Sudan's Greek community, it is open to the public and offers sports facilities (tennis, volleyball, basketball, football, running), a swimming pool (entrance fee SDG 30) and basic food and drinks.
• Coptic club .
• German club . Nothing especially German, a basketball court, a garden in the shade of trees and a swimming pool. It also serves as a hotel.
• Indian club . Omdurman. The center of the capital's large Indian community social life, it organizes events for all important Indian festivals.
• A wander around Tuti island is highly recommended if you want to see green rather than the brown of Khartoum. If you are heading to Omdurman, a good way of unwinding after the chaos of the souq is to catch the ferry across to Tuti from Omdurman (except Fridays) or take the Tuti Suspension Bridge. Aim for around 17:00-18:00 to enjoy Tuti in the early evening.
• A Nile cruise, several boats moored by Tuti Bridge are available for cruises. A cruise on some of the smaller boats can cost you as little as SDG 15.

Cultural centers [ edit ]

• Centre Culturel Français . Downtown, Ali Dinar St. Offers French courses, Sudanese Arabic courses, a library and cultural events (music, art, literature, conferences, movies). Ask for the program at: [email protected].
• Goethe Institute . Downtown, Al Mak Nimir St. Offers German courses, cultural events (music, art, literature, conferences, movies). Ask for the program at: [email protected] or http://www.goethe.de/khartum .
• British Council . Downtown, Abu Sinn St. Offers English courses, cultural events (music, art, literature, conferences, movies). Ask for the program at: [email protected] or http://www.britishcouncil.org/africa-sd-contact-us.htm .
• Iranian Cultural Center . Al Amarat, corner of Airport Rd and St 27.

In the evening [ edit ]

• Evening tea on Nile Avenue . With the extension of Nile Avenue to Manshia complete, the stretch of road between Mak Nimir and Manshia bridges has become the place to be of Khartoum's evening life. Innumerable tea ladies cater to the needs of the crowd enjoying the grass while watching the road and the river.

Music [ edit ]

• Concerts . The Sudanese music scene is active. Artists of the moment play live in clubs, mostly on weekend evenings. Look for the Arabic posters that dot the city or ask the locals.
• Weddings . It is common for Sudanese to hire star musicians to perform one or two of their favourite piece at wedding ceremonies. The footage of the performance usually ends up as an unofficial video clip on the Sudanese TV channels.
• Creative events . Khartoum youth and amateur scene can be spotted at one of the numerous and often changing cultural events. Whether Wapi (British Council), Makaan, Space or Khartoum Open Mic', they offer a scene for young musicians, hip hoppers, dancers, slammers and poets. Most accurate information is to be found on Facebook.
• Khartoum International Music Festival .

Movies [ edit ]

• Cinemas . The last commercial cinemas closed in 2009 but the open air buildings of the Coliseum (Souk al Arabi), Halfaya and Watania(Khartoum North) or Watania (Omdurman) can still be spotted. Afra Mall movie theaters still shows movies, mainly Bollywood or Egyptian.
• Film festivals . The European Union and the Embassy of Venezuela organize yearly film festivals. The French Cultural Center offers free weekly projections as does occasionally the Goethe Institute.

Buy [ edit ]

Most shopping is still done in street markets or souqs. The souqs here are not as attractive those in other Middle Eastern countries but are still interesting enough for a glimpse of Sudanese economics. And you can certainly buy everything you need, including handicrafts if you are a tourist, from these markets. Prices are not amazingly low due to transport costs for imported (mainly Chinese) goods, but cheaper than in Afra Mall or proper shops. Upmarket, Khartoum has only one shopping mall with a supermarket, several shops and food outlets.

Khartoum [ edit ]

• Souq Arabi In the city centre, this is your classical chaotic market teeming with people. The market is divided in to several sections, each focussing on a certain product. There is even one block devoted to gold, although it certainly looks less sophisticated and organised than its counterpart in Dubai. However, this souq is a bit lacking in term of handicrafts and fresh foodstuff. You are better off going to Souq Omdurman (see below) for handicrafts.
• 15.559325 32.554972 1 Afra Mall , Africa Road in the southern suburb of Arkawet . Afra is Khartoum's and Sudan's only mall but don't expect too much. Afra is already starting to lose it new shininess - it is more like a small neighbourhood mall rather than those you would find in Hong Kong, Singapore or Dubai. It has a supermarket and retail outlets selling clothes and other things you would expect to find in a mall. You can find money changers and pre-paid mobile telephone kiosks too. Afra Mall is certainly not a must-see attraction, nor a place to head for a night out. ( updated Jan 2011 )
• 15.585247 32.544342 2 Al-Amarat Centre . For visitors this is probably your best bet for tracking down imported foodstuffs and household items. Prices are high of course, but you are paying for convenience. ( updated Jan 2011 )
• 15.649178 32.482431 3 Souq Omdurman . Very large Sudanese market. Most of the commodities are cheaper and vegetables and fruits are fresher than Souq Arabi . You can get handicrafts here. The handicraft street is quite difficult to find - its towards the northern end of the market, near the gold section (not on the western side, at stated in the Bradt guide). The street is actually a covered lane between two buildings with gates at either end. Its not very busy (in comparison with the rest of the market) and they can lock up and go home in the evenings, and sometimes on Fridays also. There are many local buses between Souq arabi and here. Bus fare are SDG 1 from here to Souq Arabi. ( updated Jan 2011 )

Khartoum North (Bahri) [ edit ]

• Saad Gishra . This is a covered market place; it is Bahri's main shopping market. Prices here can be a little higher than those in Souq Omdurman; however, it is much more easily navigable for tourists. ( updated Jan 2011 )

Eat [ edit ]

Khartoum has a good sprinkling of restaurants, with new ones popping up every couple of months – other than restaurants attached to hotels there is little quality eating to be had in Khartoum’s city centre. Amarat hosts the majority of the better eateries, although Ridyah and Khartoum 2 also have some places. Omdurman and Barhi have a light sprinkling of simple restaurants. All restaurants have about 15% government tax and 3-14% service charge.

Amarat [ edit ]

• 15.576103 32.545228 1 Universal , Amarat St. 27 . Italian flavoured, offering pleasant al fresco dining, priced with the expat wallet in mind. ( updated Jan 2011 )
• Mat'am 15 Cha'abi - Popular Restaurant 15 , Al-Amarat, St 15 ( on the square off Macro Supermarket /Syrian Fresh Food 2, facing Kanon Hotel ). Serves north of Sudan traditional gurasa (a large thick wheat pancake) or kisra (large thin pancake) with your choice of sauce (bamya based with lamb or chicken) or yoghurt with sugar (gha'ib). Also has a juice bar. Very cheap (all dishes under SDG 5), it is a favourite of local workers and touk touk drivers. ( updated Jan 2011 )
• Amwaj Restaurant , Africa St, Al-Amarat ( on the corner with Street 15 or "Shari'a Khamsa ta-Ashaara" ), ☏ +249 91 828 8890 . Big, airy and spotless, and really good food. Extremely popular with locals and visitors. Menu offers shawarmas, kebabs, grilled chicken, lamb stews and others, all accompanied by bread, soup and salad. Delicious fruit juices and shakes too. Dishes cost SDG 20-60 . ( updated Jan 2011 )
• Royal Broast , Airport Road, Al-Amarat . Another popular place a few doors from Amwaj. ( updated Jan 2011 )
• Laziz Delicious Restaurant , Al-Amarat Street 1 . Nice place to eat in. They have another branch in Ryad area. ( updated Jan 2011 )
• Afra Mall Chinese restaurant food court , Afra Mall, Africa Street, Arkawet . Located on the first floor of Khartoum's only shopping mall. ( updated Jan 2011 )

Khartoum 2 [ edit ]

• 15.595771 32.536836 2 Assaha Restaurant . Would be considered an excellent restaurant in any city, and a Jewel in Khartoum. Good atmosphere with professional and knowledgeable wait staff. They have lots on the menu including luncheons, light meals and full dinners. A large selection of appetizers, mains, dessert and a "hubble bubble" cost about SDG 90 per person with everything included. They charge 12% government tax and 14% service charge. ( updated Jan 2011 )
• Al Bawadi Tourist Restaurant , Ahmed Makki Abdu St ( east of Souk Khartoum 2 ), ☏ +249 90 692 1951 . A renowned table for spicy grilled chicken and broast. Mains cost SDG 15-20 . ( updated Jan 2011 )
• Hadramawt Restaurant , Khartoum 2 St 47 ( west Souk Khartoum 2 ), ☏ +249 12 222 5252 . Yemeni restaurant offering the traditional salta, fahsa, mandi, lahm hanith and fatah for desert. Mains cost around SDG 15 . ( updated Jan 2011 )

East of the airport [ edit ]

• 15.561519 32.562575 3 Habesha Ethiopian restaurant , +249 912302410 ( Arkaweet Area, east of Afra Mall ). Good atmosphere, good food and very affordable. The restaurant is on two floors (there is a pleasant internet cafe on the 3rd floor), upstairs is more lively with Ethiopian pop on the plasma screen. About SDG 25 each for a big meal and coffee. A good choice if you are looking for somewhere with music playing and a bit of atmosphere. ( updated Jan 2011 )
• Salt 'n' Pepper , Buri area, north end of Obeid Khatim Street ( Next to Buri family park ), ☏ +249 91 011 0916 . Only Pakistani restaurant in Sudan. Speciality in Pakistani spicy tasty dishes. ( updated Jan 2011 )

Bahri [ edit ]

• 15.623708 32.557136 4 Asian Biryani Restaurant ( Khartoum North ). As the name suggests this place specialises in Biryanis - and very tasty they are too. More of a cafe than a restaurant this is a good choice for lunch rather than a slap-up dinner. Lamb Biryani and a some salad for SDG 8. The restaurant, and the supermarket next door, sells excellent mango juice for SDG 1 a bottle (Maaza). Easy to get to, head over the Burri Bridge, take the first right, and it's on your left. ( updated Jan 2011 )

Downtown [ edit ]

• Papa Costa . In the center of Khartoum, and reasonably priced. Service charges are minimal, food is reasonably good, but service level is so-so. You can choose food from steak to pasta. They charge 3% service charge and 10% government tax. ( updated Jan 2011 )
• Kandahar, souq Libya . At this restaurant you choose the meat that you want cooked (usually a choice between camel and lamb), you then hand over the meat to be cooked as part of your meal. Kandahar is one of the few places in Khartoum where you can find camel meat. It is located in Souq Libya in the peripheries of Omdurman. ( updated Jan 2011 )

Drink [ edit ]

It's best to prepare yourself to be alcohol-free for your stay: there are places serving 'special tea' dotted around and non-alcoholic beers are available, but in general it's more hassle than it's worth to track down alcohol during a short visit. For long-termers, however, the market does exist - via diplomatic bags and other routes... apparently.

Sleep [ edit ]

A 5% tourism tax and 15% VAT may well be added to your bill - Khartoum's hotels are inconsistent in telling you about these taxes in advance, and (especially for cheaper hotels) inconsistent in paying this money to the tax authorities. Ask if there are any hidden extras before booking.

Budget [ edit ]

• Blue Nile Sailing Club . An alternative to Khartoum's hotels, on the river's southern bank just east of the confluence, the club often accommodates overlanders and accommodates tent camping on its grounds. The club is fenced, monitored, inexpensive and offers expansive river views. It is also home to a river gunboat that once belonged to Horatio Kitchener and now houses the club's offices. ( updated Jan 2019 )
• Khartoum Youth Hostel , House no 66, Street 47, Khartoum 2, , ☏ +249 183480385 , +249 912500322 (mobile) . Opened in 2007 and part of Hostelling International this is the best option for non-camping travellers on a budget. Dorm bed $5.00, double room $10.00. . ( updated Jul 2019 )

Mid-range [ edit ]

• Downtown Hotel and Business Center , el jami Ave, 11111 , ☏ +249 183742131 , [email protected] . Good option for those who like old British city center which turned into multicultural hub of people from all around Africa doing business there. Downtown Hotel is situated in a big 5 store building right next Gold Market, Grand Mosque and major shopping center Waha. It's managed by British, Polish and Sudanese friends. It's still needs some adjustments and work on details, elevator doesn't work and hotel parking is occupied by street vendors but for US$35 it's possible to have very decent, well furnished room with bathroom and big bed for couples. They have coffee&restaurant on the groundfloor with green backyard. There are multiple activities like training and business center, Artists in Residence programs, design studio and other creative units. Double Room US$35, Twin Room US$45 . ( updated Jan 2011 )
• 15.570422 32.54635 2 Lisamin Safari Hotel , 41st Amaret . Opened in late 2007, this hotel is a welcome addition to Khartoum’s rather drab hotel stock. Lebanese run, and housing an excellent Lebanese restaurant (The Cedar Tree) this hotel is very Dubai-esque and is certainly worth checking out if your budget can stretch to the room rates. Wireless internet available for a fee. US$144 single, US$156 double, suites from US$168 (inc VAT and tourism tax) . ( updated Jul 2016 )
• 15.571853 32.567386 3 Bougainvilla Guesthouse , ☏ +249 92 261 5445 . Small 17-room hotel in the Riyadh suburb – the big attraction is the breezy roof terrace where excellent European breakfasts and dinners are served. Although the rooms themselves are nothing special, they are clean and have the essentials of a/c, wireless internet and satellite TV, although standard rooms involve sharing a bathroom. A favourite with visiting aid workers and other westerners. Double en suite US$91, single en suite US$65, Single outside bathroom US$4, incl. breakfast . ( updated Nov 2017 )

Splurge [ edit ]

• 15.557264 32.554901 5 Al Salam Rotana , Africa Street ( Near Afra Mall ), ☏ +249 1 87007777 , fax : +249 1 8700 7788 , [email protected] . Opened in mid 2007, this is the only hotel in Khartoum that offers international five-star standard. Nice big rooms, perfectly equipped. Pool, gym, restaurant and lobby bar, conference facilities and Wifi (fee). Rooms are around US$300 incl. taxes . ( updated Nov 2017 )
• 15.595812 32.536643 6 Assaha Lebanese Village , ☏ +249 183481919 . A bit of a strange one this – based in an attractive, if slightly kitsch, dry stone palace, the Assaha Village combines a large restaurant, conference facilities and even a ‘museum’ with intimate, middle eastern themed bedrooms. Its part of a small chain with sister hotels in Beirut and Doha. Prices, however, are sky-high at SDG 360 for a single room and SDG 480 for a double.  
• 15.607168 32.500263 7 Coral Khartoum , Jamaa Street Al Mogran Area ( Near the Al-Mogran Park and the confluence of the Blue and White Nile, about 3 km to the west of the city center ), ☏ +249 18 377 4100 , [email protected] . The former Hilton hotel in Khartoum, under new management. Excellent service and nice views over the Nile.  
• 15.607249 32.516281 8 Grand Holiday Villa , Nile Street ( West of the city center towards the confluence of the Blue and White Nile, along the banks of the Blue Nile ), ☏ +249 1 83774039 , fax : +249-183-773961 , [email protected] . The hotel has undergone extensive renovation and many facilities have been updated to international standards. The swimming pool is among the largest in Sudan. Features: unlimited free WiFi, Nile Terrace Restaurant (water sprayers on year round), free breakfast. The restaurant serves continental cuisine and comes highly recommended. Rooms start at US$100 and include a continental breakfast.  

Cope [ edit ]

Registration and other legal requirements [ edit ].

All foreigners are required to register within three days of arrival.

To register, go to the Aliens Registration Bureau at Shari'a Al Sahafa Zat, Khartoum, close to Sudan University for Science and Technology, with passport sized photos required and SDG 540 (as of November 2018), US$ not accepted. Registration can also be done at the airport departure terminal. The whole process takes less than 10 minutes.

The travel permit and the photo permit are no longer required as of 2018.

Embassies and consulates [ edit ]

Go next [ edit ].

• Sabaloga Gorge : This gorge is also known as the 6th Cataract. It is 80-95 km (50 to 60 miles) north of Khartoum and can be reached in about 2½ hours. It is essential that a 4-wheel drive vehicle be used, and it is wise, as is true in all cases in traveling outside Khartoum, to travel with at least two vehicles. On arrival, visitors can stroll around a Sudanese village and inspect Ansar forts that once bombarded steamers on their way to relieve General Gordon. It is advisable to take this trip in the cooler months.
• Jebel Awlia : This dam was completed in 1937 and is 40-50 km (25 to 30 miles) south of Khartoum on the Jebel Awlia road. A 4-wheel drive vehicle is not required for this trip as the road is paved to the dam. However, if you intend to cross the dam and travel on the other side, a 4 WD will be needed. The area around the dam itself has a number of large trees and flat grassy land which are ideal for picnics. For those interested in bird watching, there are numerous birds to be seen, such as pelican, herons, kingfisher, wader, and plovers. One of the fringe benefits of a trip to Jebel Awlia is a short drive up to the dam. Here the fishermen sell their catch, which they have just brought in. The prices are about half of what they might be in Khartoum. Bring along suitable wrapping and ice and coolers for any fish purchased.
• Meroe : This site is approximately 200 km north of Khartoum. There is also a hotel in Shendi (very basic) where one could be based. The trip should be arranged with a tour agency unless someone in the party really knows his/her way around the desert tracks. There are some paved roads to Meroe but you do have to drive off the main road on to some sandy areas. Four-wheel driver vehicles are a necessity for this trip. The Pharaonic influence left its imprint in the hieroglyphic language, the religion of Amon, and building of the pyramids, which were a simplified version of the Egyptian model with no rooms or corridors. The Greek and Roman architectural influence is evident in the pillars of temples and the classical forms of the statues of men and women. The Meroe ruins are a four-hour drive from Khartoum. But there are various other sites in the area, so a two or three day trip should be contemplated, and a knowledgeable guide is essential for the best understanding of the ruins. National Geographic’s book Splendors of the Past provides excellent background for such a trip.
• Dinder National Park : (12°19'N 034°47'E) The Dinder National Park is said to be one of the most unique in the world. It is totally “unorganized,” and the visitor can truly see game in its natural state. The site is about 480 km (300 miles) south of Khartoum on the Blue Nile near the Roseires Dam. Travel by 4-wheel transportation from there to the park is recommended. Inside the park there is a small tourist area consisting of round, grass thatched huts. Inside these huts are beds, a chair and a table. The huts are burned and rebuilt every year after the flood season. This park is only accessible for a few months of the year from December through May. It is essential that the visitor traveling to Dinder make thorough preparations for the trip.
• The Red Sea Area - [Port Sudan] : The Red Sea is noted for its magnificent under water diving, the clearness of its water and the variety of marine species. Visitors generally reach the area by flying Sudan Air. Daily, one hour and a half flights are available, but you may drive on paved road to Port Sudan in about 12–14 hours. Travelers should be completely self-sufficient with all fuel as well as food and water. It is about 815 km (510 miles) to Port Sudan. Visitors may want to stay at the Red Sea Hotel. This hotel is booked for most of the year, and it is necessary to have reservations confirmed in advance. The Hilton Hotel has opened in Port Sudan. It is located about half an hour drive from the airport, along the harbor. Outdoor swimming pool, three restaurants, and a gymnasium, are some of the facilities available. For more enquiries, call 31139810 or fax 31131183.
• Erkowit : This area is 39 km southwest of Port Sudan, and it is the only developed summer resort in Sudan. The altitude is 1,200 ft (370 m) above sea level.
• Jebel Barkal Unesco World Heritage site - [Northern state] :Jebel Barkal or Gebel Barkal (Arabic: جبل بركل) is a very small mountain located some 400 km north of Khartoum, in Karima town in Northern State in Sudan, on a large bend of the Nile River, in the region called Nubia . Around 1450 BC, the Egyptian Pharaoh Thutmose III extended his empire to that region and considered Gebel Barkal its southern limit. There, he campaigned near the city of Napata that, about 300 years later, became the capital of the independent kingdom of Kush. The 25th Dynasty Nubian king Piye later greatly enlarged the New Kingdom Temple of Amun in this city and erected his Year 20 Victory stela within it.

The ruins around Gebel Barkal include at least 13 temples and 3 palaces, that were for the first described by European explorers in the 1820s, although only in 1916 were archeological excavations started by George Reisner under a joint expedition of Harvard University and the Museum of Fine Arts of Boston. From the 1970s, explorations continued by a team from the University of Rome La Sapienza, under the direction of Sergio Donadoni, that was joined by another team from the Boston Museum, in the 1980s, under the direction of Timothy Kendall. The larger temples, such that of Amun, are even today considered sacred to the local population.

For these reasons, the mountain, together with the historical city of Napata and other ancient sites, were considered by UNESCO, in 2003, World Heritage Sites.

Buses leave daily from Khartoum to Kerma, however the most comfortable and convenient way of getting there is by car. The route is tarmacked, but you will still require the best part of a day to get there.

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Top 10 Things To Do in Khartoum, Sudan

Sudan is often a place overlooked by travellers, but this East African country has some impressive credentials and is definitely worth going off the beaten track for. Incredibly it has 220 extant pyramids, making it the country with the most in the world. But for those looking to experience something different, head to the metropolitan city of Khartoum.

Be at the confluence of the nile.

A boat trip to the confluence of the majestic Blue and White Niles is an absolute must when visiting Khartoum. The Blue Nile begins at Lake Tana in Ethiopia and flows into Sudan, while the White Nile is longer and runs through central Africa. Separated by its distinct colours, you will get an epic view of the river as well as the city while out there. Haggle for a boat (they can be hired on Nile Street next to Tuti Bridge), grab some soft drinks and snacks from nearby vendors, jump in and jet off!

To make the most out of your experience, take two empty water bottles with you before setting off, and when you reach the confluence, carefully fill the bottles with water from each river. You’ll understand why they’re called the Blue and White Niles.

Have shisha on the beach

Tuti Island is a large agricultural island in the centre of the Nile, and its busy cafés provide visitors with lots of ways to have fun. Take a taxi or use public transport to get to the southeastern tip of the island for beautiful views of the Blue Nile and downtown Khartoum. Once there, enjoy the short stroll down to the water’s edge where you’ll be welcomed by numerous tea ladies who provide food, drinks and shisha. Choose between the many colourful chairs, have a seat and relax while enjoying the tranquil surroundings. If it gets too relaxed for you, horse rides are available for those who can summon the stamina.

Pay your respects to the revolution’s martyrs

Between 2018 and 2019, Sudan staged a country-wide revolution and eventually ousted its longtime president, Omar al-Bashir. However, the peaceful protests led by women and youth were met with extreme violence, and many of the participants were wounded, abused and killed. The collective outpouring of grief at the mistreatment of innocent civilians resulted in numerous artworks that were created around the city, particularly around the military headquarters in Khartoum. Learn about the nation and its hardships and victories through art and admire the many murals and paintings, including portraits of those who fought for change and lost their lives. Sudanese artists suffered greatly under the Bashir regime, so this is a way to appreciate the talent and resilience of the artists.

Immerse yourself in history at the Sudan National Museum

Khartoum has a fantastic roster of museums to choose from like the Republican Palace Museum and the Ethnographic Museum. But the main must-visit institution is the Sudan National Museum. Its courtyard alone is home to four ancient Egyptian-era temples, built by some of Egypt’s most famous pharaohs, including New Kingdom rulers Hatshepsut and Ramses II. Stop by and marvel at their crisp hieroglyphic inscriptions. Learn about ancient Sudan and come face-to-face with monumental remains from the country’s Kushite era that took place in Nubia, between Sudan and Egypt. Also on display are large-scale colourful murals from some of Sudan’s medieval churches and cathedrals. If you’re particularly into archaeology, consider spending a few hours here and take breaks by visiting the cafés across the road.

Go to church

Even if you are not a frequent churchgoer at home, you might consider visiting one in Sudan. The majority of Sudanese are Muslims, but there is also an enduring Christian community here, despite having faced years of persecution. To see a different side of the country that many people miss, pay a visit to one of Khartoum’s church services. St Matthew’s Cathedral – an architecturally impressive Roman Catholic church in downtown Khartoum – is a good place to start. With services that run on Sundays, a visit will not only give you a rare glimpse into Sudanese Christianity but also offer a moment of tranquillity away from the bustling streets of Khartoum.

Feel the pulse at the University of Khartoum

The University of Khartoum makes it to this list for good reason. Most importantly this is because many students took part – and were killed – in the 2018-19 revolution. Memorials, posters and graffiti scattered around the campus sadly testify to this and demonstrate how students have often generated the pulse of revolutionary activity. Constructed in the early 20th century, the building itself is a working relic of Britain’s colonization of Sudan and is reminiscent of college buildings in Oxford and Cambridge.

See some skills at Nuba wrestling

Khartoum is a cosmopolitan city and home to many people from a variety of cultural backgrounds. The Nuba from South Kordofan state is one of these groups, and each Saturday and Wednesday they convene wrestling matches in Haj Yusuf in Khartoum North. Watch the fighters as they are split into two groups, where the winner of each round chooses who to face in the next. The competitors are extremely skilled and quite famous, with many dedicated fans sitting in the audience. As you watch the sport, you’ll also be able to enjoy a cup of tea or coffee, banter and sometimes musical performances in the small and intimate arena.

Make sure you arrive at 3.30pm – it’s 40 minutes away from central Khartoum – and stay until sunset to soak up all the buzz.

Get in touch with spiritual Sufi traditions

There is a strong Islamic Sufi tradition in Sudan, and many people belong to one of the Sufi ‘orders’. Sufis tend to emphasise the oneness of the universe and existence, and they gather to perform collective devotions (zikr) in which short phrases or prayers are repeatedly recited. If you’re thinking of whirling dervishes then you’re on the right lines, but to truly understand Sudanese Sufism you should go to Hamad al-Nil cemetery in Omdurman. Each Friday at 4pm, devotees meet for worship, where they sing and chant poems, and dance and move together in the colourful space for several hours. Everyone is friendly and open-minded, so feel free to wander around and ask questions while experiencing authentic traditions.

Admire the herds at the camel market

Camels are a big part of Sudanese culture and it’s worth travelling a bit farther northwest to see them in Umbada. As in much of North Africa, camels are used for trade, transport, racing and also meat. The camels in Umbada have been bred in White Nile state and Kordofan, and have been brought to the market to be sold to local merchants and buyers from the Gulf. Visit the market early in the morning to cruise around and see the biggest display of camels. The knowledgeable traders will happily chat with you and tell you all about their herds. Tea and coffee are on offer as always, or, if you’re feeling brave, you can try some fresh camel milk.

Eat at someone’s house

Everyone who’s been to Sudan will tell you that the Sudanese are some of the most hospitable people you’ll ever meet. One of the primary ways they demonstrate their appreciation for visitors is with food, so if you get asked to go to someone’s house (which you will), say, “Yes!” Expect to be served beans, lentils, bread, falafel, okra (with some spicy chilli on the side), followed by fruit, sticky pastries and sugary tea. Home visits are particularly important if you’re not venturing outside Khartoum, as they may be the best opportunity to get to know local people.

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15 amazing things to do in khartoum, sudan.

The basically untravelled capital in an untravelled country, I really did not have high hopes when I arrived into Khartoum – my first stop in Sudan.

Actually, I felt pretty nervous about this city, what with my lack of Arabic, lack of Lonely Planet and lack of any idea about what to expect!

However, I was amazingly surprised to discover an incredibly safe city jam-packed with interesting stuff to do, and some of the friendliest people on earth.

Khartoum! Who knew?

Ok so there are some grievances, essentially the traffic is horrendous and it’s unbearably hot even for a sun lover like me, but the pluses far outweigh the minuses as you can see from these 15 amazing things to do in Khartoum.

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#1 visit the national museum.

Coming in at the top of my list of things to do in Khartoum, it has to be visiting the National Museum of Sudan .

Costing just 10 SDG (Sudanese Pounds), that’s 0.30 USD to you and me, this is an absolute steal.

In fact, I didn’t even pay when I visited because the guard just waved me in for free!

And what I saw inside blew my mind!

Sudan has just as much aged history as Ancient Egypt, but no one knows about it here and the exhibits of mummy cases, stone tomb statues and hieroglyphics are not even in glass cabinets in this museum.

Were you so inclined, you could even touch these 2,000 year old artefacts and certainly you can take hundreds of photos and marvel at them without any crowds what so ever.

There’s also full stone tombs that have been reconstructed here in the museum, as well as a fascinating exhibition of early Christian art that looks very similar to that which I saw in Lalibela, Ethiopia .

All in all, this museum was a total surprise and a total delight. No trip to Khartoum is complete without visiting it.

#2 Marvel at the Sufi Dancing

Each Friday night, a magical spectacle unfolds in Khartoum whereby members of the Sufi faith, an ancient and mystical form of Islam, work themselves into a trance-like state and dance on holy day.

You’re definitely going to see other tourists at this weekly event, but it’s still a genuine practice that is well worth checking out.

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#3 Walk Over the Nile

I’ve been to both sources of this famous waterway and seeing them come together was like completing the picture!

Strolling across the world’s longest river on one of the impressive bridges that straddle it is definitely one of the best things to do in Khartoum – just don’t take any photos of the bridges, it’s strictly forbidden.

#4 Check out the Jazz Café

Pretty much the only live music venue in the city, heading down to the Jazz Café is definitely one of the best things to do in Khartoum.

Situated in the Riyhad part of the city, this is where the local hipster youths hang out and it’s great to see this side of modern Sudanese culture.

With open mic night on a Wednesday, there’s live music almost every other night and a good crowd of trendy, young students always happy for you to join them.

5 Essential Packing Items for Sudan

#1 Headscarf or Sarong – Female travellers especially may feel they want to wear a headscarf in Khartoum like I did. Although it’s not strictly necessary for travellers, it may make life easier.

#2 Long, Thin Trousers – Legs need to be covered in this strict Islamic culture, but due to the extremely hot climate, having a thin linen or cotton pair like this is ideal.

#3 Sunglasses – Did I mention Khartoum was hot! Like 40 degree hot! Sunglasses are essential here to protect your eyes from the UV rays and the dust!

#4 Long-Sleeved Thin Top – Like legs, arms should be covered in Khartoum, so a cotton, thin long-sleeved top is going to be necessary.

#5 Arabic Phrasebook – Even in the capital of Sudan, few people speak English, so getting your hands on the Lonely Planet Middle East Phrasebook before you leave home will help you in Khartoum no end.

#5 Wander to the Art Galleries

Sticking with the cultural scene, there’s a number of good art galleries in Khartoum that I’d highly recommend visiting while you’re in the city.

My favourite is Mojo, but Dabanga also gets favourable reviews from local ex-pats.

Both are situated near the Khartoum 3 district.

#6 Sail on the Nile

Surely one of the best ways to take in Khartoum’s riverside setting is to jump onboard a local boat and enjoy an hour long trip along the water here.

Possible from a number of places within the city, this is an activity best organised as a group to help keep the price down.

TOP TIP: Download the app Tirhal onto your smartphone. The Khartoum version of Uber, this is an amazing tool for helping you get around the city without being ripped off. Learn more HERE .

#7 Take Coffee with Locals in the Al Sunut Forest

This place looks less like a forest and more like an unused patch of urban scrub, but it’s situated right next to the university and is where many students hang out during their lunch hour.

Even just walking past, I was invited for coffee with them and it was great to hear about life in Khartoum from some local young people and to swap and share stories with them.

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#8 Watch the Wrestling

Not only is Friday night the time to see Sufi Dancing in Sudan, but another of the best things to do in Khartoum also takes place on this evening – namely local wrestling!

This is a bizarre aspect of Sudanese culture, which otherwise is very modest and restrained, but the locals love it and if you head to see the matches each and every weekend you’re likely to be the only tourist!

TOP TIP: The traffic can be horrendous in Khartoum, especially between the hours of 10am and 4pm, so do allow plenty of time (perhaps double what you estimate) to get to anywhere in the city during this time.

#9 Drive to Tuti Island

Situated in the centre of the Nile, Tuti Island is like an urban retreat in Khartoum and hiring a taxi to drive you round this peaceful enclave is a lovely afternoon activity.

Here you can see the confluence of the Blue and White Nile specifically, as well as ride on the world’s most famous river.

It’s also just nice to take in the views of a very genuine Khartoum life demonstrated by the people who live here and to marvel at the agricultural production that happens so close the country’s capital.

#10 Hit Up the Camel Market

The capital of Sudan is actually comprised of 3 separate cities that come together under the umbrella of Khartoum for administrative purposes.

The northern part of the city, Omdurman, is home to a great camel market and if you’re yet to witness such a spectacle heading here to check out the chaos is definitely one of the best things to do in Khartoum.

TOP TIP: Banks shut for the day at lunchtime across Khartoum, so if you need to change money, always make sure to do it before 12pm.

#11 Wander the Stalls of Souk Shabi

Khartoum’s largest souk, aka market, is a feast for the sense on all levels.

You can easily get lost in here for a few hours as you wander the many food, clothes, jewellery, fabric, homeware and spice stalls.

#12 Be Amazed by the Presidential Palace

Situated on Nile Street with some incredible riverside views, the Presidential Palace in Khartoum is hard to miss!

Again, do not take photos of this site as it’s strictly forbidden – even to walk past it on the same side of the street isn’t allowed –  but enjoy the view of the gated luxury that seems to go on for ver as you drive past in a taxi or tuk-tuk.

TOP TIP: The best wifi in Khartoum can be found at the Corinthia Hotel. This 5* accommodation was definitely out of my price range, but brilliantly you can sit in reception and use the wifi for free to your heart’s content!

#13 Drink Tea on the Nile

A lovely, early evening thing to do in Khartoum is to head towards the Burri Alsharif section of Nile Street and enjoy a local tea or coffee by the river.

There’s tons of cafes here that line the water and you can relax outside with a hot drink and watch the world go and the sun set.

Parista Café does an excellent western-style coffee I can definitely vouch for if you’re longing for a good cappuccino!

#14 Swim at the Greek Club

If Khartoum’s heat and dust is getting to you, why not head to the one place in the city where you can enjoy a swim.

The Greek Club near the corner of Africa Street and El Mek Nimir Avenue is a haven in this desert city and the pool and lounges here give travellers a good chance to enjoy the sun without the need for layers of clothing.

Entrance is just 100 SDP and it’s open all day, everyday, until 7pm.

TOP TIP: MTN is the best provider of SIM cards in Khartoum, which can be picked up for as little as 10 SDP.  You then have to buy scratch vouchers and enter the codes to top up credit for calls and texts. Data packages are also available and the 3G here is good right across the country – hoorah!

#15 Lunch at Ozone Cafe

The number ex-pat café in Khartoum, Ozone is the place to head if you want some international food for lunch, like a delicious salad or freshly-pressed juice.

The garden setting is super peaceful and if you’re craving a bit of home and familiarity heading here is definitely one of the best things to do in Khartoum.

Nearby, other great places to eat in Khartoum include Laziz (amazing falafels) and Top Kapi – a yummy Turkish restaurant.

PIN IT TO PINTEREST!

So that’s my list of the best 15 things to do in Khartoum, Sudan.

Who knew this capital was so full of amazing stuff to discover and how safe and relaxing I would find my time here to be.

Have you visited Khartoum?

What was your favourite thing to do there?

Creator of Big World Small Pockets, Stephanie Parker is a travel addict! Originally from Jersey in the Channel Islands, Stephanie adventures the world collecting tips, advice and stories, to share with a smile

36 thoughts on “ 15 Amazing Things to do in Khartoum, Sudan ”

An interesting article about an amazing off the beaten path destination – I´ve posted it on my twitter 🙂 What was your experience with the local people like? From what I´ve heard they are very hospitable

Hi Guini, thanks so much for sharing the piece and yes the Sudanese are INCREDIBLY hospitable! Mind-blowingly so!

i am in sudan right now for the first time and the people here are amazing good and helpful

Totally agree! Glad you’re enjoying the Sudanese hospitality 🙂

Sudan is actually full of such interesting places and people- I wish more people could visit. Did you get out of the city at all? They have lovely pyramids there in the NW.

Hi Deah, such an interesting place with some AMAZING people indeed! Sounds like you’re in the know! Yes, I actually travelled from Khartoum all the way north following the Nile and then into Egypt – the pyramids at Karima and Meroe were definitely a highlight. Loads more on the blog coming out about these destinations too – Khartoum is just the first installment!

Havent been there yet, but one day I will!

Yes yes Johnny, definitely get it on your list! 🙂

Thank you Steph for visiting my home town Khartoum And experience yourself not from the media about my country Sudan

Thank you Muna for reading the article and for your wonderful comments. It was a pleasure to spend time in your country and to be the recipient of such excellent Sudanese hospitality. I would encourage anyone to travel here, it was an amazing experience!

you should give me a tour am here in khortum

Thanks Steph for the highlights about my country,next tome when you come i will invite you to do an amazing activities,it seems you haven’t experienced the famous Sudanese generosity,this’s the best thing in Sudan,i hope you come again and give me a chance to take you to local places that will never be forgotten

Hi Sarah, I certainly did appreciate the Sudanese hospitality and found it like no other on earth. This is truly one of the most welcoming countries to travel and I feel very privileged to have been there. I look forward to returning and exploring more soon. 🙂

Glad you,ve enjoyed our country… and thanks for the warm words about us 🙂

Thank you Salah – I had a wonderful time in Sudan and would recommend travelling there to anyone.. especially as the locals are so friendly! 🙂

I worked inKhartoum for some time. The people and the shop owners are very hospitable and friendly if you show them a smile! You hit some great spots in Khartoum, a few a didnt know about.

Hi Valerie. Thanks so much for your great feedback and wonderful to hear from someone who worked in Khartoum… that must have been quite an experience. I found everyone in the city, in fact the whole of Sudan, incredibly friendly and hospitable. Loved my time there and look forward to returning one day. Do you have any plans to go back?

Planning my December trip now…airfare already booked. What a FANTASTIC list you’ve put together, which I will surely use. THANK YOU!!! I have less than 48 hours in Khartoum, so this really helps!

Nice to hear! I’m sure you are going to have an amazing time in Sudan and December will be cooler in Khartoum – which is good! Where are you headed afterwards? Sounds like it could be an exciting trip!

Did you Visit the Funfairs? They are really cool!

Funfairs? Where are they Jenny?

Thank you for all this nice feeling and comments about your trip to sudan

Thank you. I really loved my time there 🙂

Thank you Steph for your nice article I’ve shared in my twitter so people can know more about this country, my country many thanks dear again

Thank you Waleed and so delighted you liked the post 🙂

Thank you for sharing your travel experience in Sudan. I am moving to Khartoum next summer(2019) with my family and i am now definitely looking forward the experience after Reading your article.

Thank you so much for your comment Fifi. Wishing you all the best with the move 🙂

Thank you for your nice feelings to my country I so appreciate you

Thank you Hassan

Thanks for sharing! Looks like some cool unique things to do

Sudan is an amazing country. Loved my time travelling there. Just sad to learn about what is happening in Khartoum right now.

Both the museum as well as Ozone are unfortunately closed (autumn 2020).

Thank you so much for the update Coco. That’s such a shame to hear, but will certainly help other travellers out. Steph 🙂

Hi Steph. Thank you for your time and kind words. There’s a lot to do to make it better as tourist destination.

Thanks Mazin, that’s great to know. Best, Steph 🙂

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8 Amazing Things To Do In Khartoum

With a population of 5.8 million, Khartoum is the second-largest city in North Africa so you can expect a bustling atmosphere. It is believed that the name Khartoum in Arabic means ‘trunk’, most likely referring to the narrow strip of land extending between the Blue and White Niles.

The Nile splits Khartoum into three cities – The downtown business district, Omdurman (west bank), and the Khartoum North. Take a couple of days to take in the sights and find the top things to do in Khartoum .

Best things to do in Khartoum

Stand at the  confluence of the nile .

The two major tributaries of the river are the Blue Nile and White Nile. Flowing down from Lake Victoria, Africa’s biggest lake, the White Nile flows north and is thought to be the source of the River Nile. It runs through Tanzania, Uganda, and South Sudan, and the basin is Rwanda or Burundi. The Blue Nile starts in Lake Tana, Ethiopia, and flows south then northwest to Khartoum.

There are a few spots to see this momentous phenomenon, we stood at  Al Mogran Family Park  not far from the Sudan National Museum to watch the confluence of the Nile, known locally as Al Mogran. You can see the two distinct colours of the Blue and White Nile, however, this is not reflected in their names. In reality, it is two hues of mud determined by the silt swirling around until they are mixed together at the confluence to form the almighty River Nile, the world’s longest river or the father of African rivers then runs down to Egypt.

Delve Into History At The Sudan National Museum

You will be surprised at the wealth of artifacts displayed at the Sudan National Museum both indoors and in the gardens covering all periods of Sudanese civilisation from the Stone Age to Islamic, Nubian and Christian monuments.

The indoor museum houses two floors, the lower one covers the kingdoms of Kerma, Kush, and Meroe. It was amazing to get some historical insight before I headed out to  visit the forgotten pyramids of Meroe . Unbelievably, some of the ancient artifacts are uncovered so you get to view them in all their glory.

The upper floor houses frescos from Christian Nubia depicting Christ and the Virgin Mary, along with a host of archangels, saints, and apostles. Many were painted between the 8th and 14th centuries taken from Faras Cathedral and Old Dongola churches to name just a couple.

On the grounds of the Sudan National Museum are structures that display tombs and temples submerged under Lake Nasser. Discover the tomb of the Nubian prince Djehuti-Hotep at Debeira and rescue temples such as Buhen Temple, Temple of Kumma, and Temple of Semna. 

A visit to the Sudan National Museum will be the perfect place to immerse yourself in Sudanese history. It is well laid out and informative, well worth spending a couple of hours there.

Stay In Khartoum’s Oldest Hotel

I stayed in the Acropole Hotel, the oldest hotel in Khartoum which has been frequented by many celebrities and NGOs. The simple hotel was opened in 1952 by a Greek couple who fled from poverty in 1944 caused by WWII. The gallery of photos in the lobby documents the history of time as they have watched Khartoum evolve through wars, protests, coups, and famines.

Visit Khalifa House Museum

Located in Omdurman is the Khalifa House Museum which houses a range of weapons, artefacts such as General Gordon’s chair. The house belonged to Kalifa Abdallahi ibn Muhammad also called Al Khalifa who succeeded Mahdi as leader of the Sudanese uprising in 1891. As well as a residence, it was also the headquarters of the administration of the Mahdi State and was made into a museum in 1928.

Discover Madhi’s Tomb

The Tomb of Muhammad Ahmad (Madhi) in the city of Omdurman serves as his resting place. Madhi’s mission was a fundamentalist Islamic leader whose campaign included the capture of Khartoum and then establishing a theocratic state in Sudan, with its capital at Omdurman.

Mahdi died of typhus in 1885, only 6 months after the capture of Khartoum. His body was entombed in a silver-domed mosque which was completely destroyed by British General, Kitchener, in the Battle of Omdurman in 1989. Mahdi’s body was burned in the fire and his ashes were thrown in the Nile. Madhi’s son had the mosque tomb rebuilt in 1947 in his memory. Today, Sudanese Muslims hold Madhis’ Tomb as an important place of pilgrimage.

Foreigners are allowed to visit in the correct, respectful dress. The interior is quite understated compared to the exterior. The men praying gave us a welcoming smile ushering us to be seated. Outside a man played the tambourine and sang with real passion.

Haggle At Omdurman Market

Omdurman is the most populated city in Sudan and Khartoum State, lying on the western banks of the River Nile, opposite the capital, Khartoum. Souk Omdurman dates back to the 19th Century and houses thousands of shops and stalls for locals and tourists alike.

Whilst you can buy all everyday items, Omdurman Market is famous for traditional products by skilled artisans of silver, gold, and leather. You will find the traditional dress, spices, and Sudanese folk memorabilia and get a real glimpse into the hustle and bustle of life in the city. 

|| SUGGESTED READ:  VISIT THE FORGOTTEN PYRAMIDS OF MEROË

Watch The Sunset On The Nile

There’s no better place to see that life in Khartoum revolves around the Nile than by taking a boat ride along the river at sunset. Glide past families with picnic tables sitting on plastic chairs laughing and paddling at the water’s edge, guys playing football, fishermen bringing in their catch, and kids splashing around. Life on the Nile at sunset is a fabulous people-watching activity!

Drink Tea In Burj Al-Fateh

The Burj Al-Fateh is an iconic 5-star Corinthia Hotel located in the business district. Opened in 2008, its’ iconic shape adds a new dimension to the skyline in Khartoum. It has been dubbed the ‘Egg Building’ but I feel it is more reminiscent of a fat Burj al Arab in Dubai!

Take in the tremendous 360 views whilst sipping tea at Burj Al-Fateh. It overlooks Tuti Bridge, the meeting point of the Blue Nile and White Nile, and the city of Khartoum.

KHARTOUM | TRAVEL ESSENTIALS

Is khartoum safe.

Petty street crime is low due to the military presence but it does happen so best to be alert and keep your belongings safe.

One of my visits to Khartoum was a period of political uncertainty, civil disobedience, and incidents of violence against peaceful protestors making Omdurman Market a no-go area! Omar al-Bashir was removed as President in April 2019 and now a civilian-led transitional government is in place. Sudan is in a period of transition toward elections in 2023. 

IMPORTANT: Conflict between the SAF and RSF erupted on April 15, 2023. It is advised that   no one should travel to Sudan because the risks are too high . 

How To Get A Visa For Sudan

If your country has a Sudanese embassy, you can obtain a visa but check what is required as each may have different rules. Generally, an LOI (Letter of Invitation) will be needed by a Sudanese sponsor. An LOI can be obtained by the tourist company or some visitors have got one from Acropole Hotel.

All visitors must hold passports valid for a minimum of 6 months from the arrival date. If you have the LOI, some passports can obtain a visa on arrival.

Within 3 days of arrival in Sudan, you must register with the Aliens Department. Bring 2 passport-sized photos, and a copy of your passport and the fee is the Sudanese Pound equivalent to around £35. If you don’t register within 3 days of arrival, you may be fined. 

Travel Insurance For Sudan

Not all companies will cover Sudan so it is worth checking what level of cover for the regions you will be travelling to.

IATI INSURANCE  covers all destinations with a range of packages to suit your budget.  GET YOUR QUOTE WITH 5% DISCOUNT

Best Time To Visit Khartoum

The best time to visit Khartoum is between September and October and March is the best time to visit. After March, the temperatures can soar to around 45°C, sometimes higher making the summer months a little unbearable for travel.

Useful Links For Your Khartoum Trip

Ready to get planning and check these links for visiting Khartoum in Sudan?

• Explore what to do and where to eat with  Tripadvisor
• Not booked your flights yet? Find deals with  Skyscanner
• Get your  WATER-TO-GO Bottle  with 15% OFF (Code WM15)

PIN FOR LATER – BEST THINGS TO DO IN KHARTOUM

Disclosure : This post contains affiliate links, which means I may receive a small commission if you click a link and purchase something that I’ve recommended. It comes at no cost to you. Thank you for your support.

I'm a content creator for She Wanders Miles ♡ Digital marketer, photographer, hiker, and nature lover ♡ Passion for slow, sustainable and responsible travel ♡ Join me in discovering our beautiful world across 7 continents.

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THE 10 BEST Khartoum Tours & Excursions

Khartoum tours.

• Multi-day Tours
• Cultural Tours
• 5.0 of 5 bubbles
• Good for Big Groups
• Good for a Rainy Day
• Good for Kids
• Budget-friendly
• Good for Adrenaline Seekers
• Good for Couples
• Adventurous
• Hidden Gems
• Honeymoon spot
• Things to do ranked using Tripadvisor data including reviews, ratings, photos, and popularity.

1. Real Sudan Tours

2. Travel Sudan Tours

3. Italian Tourism Co

4. DGL Travel

5. Raidan Travel & Tours

6. Kandaka Tourism

7. Sabra Travel

8. Kanaga Africa Tours

9. Safari Junkie - Khartoum, Sudan

10. Sudan Desert Tours

11. shiri travel company.

12. Sudan Legacy

13. shiri travel company.

14. 249trip

15. Kush Land

What travelers are saying.

• Real Sudan Tours
• Shiri Travel Company
• Travel Sudan Tours
• Italian Tourism Co

A guide for traveling to Sudan: Itinerary + Travel tips

By Joan Torres 86 Comments Last updated on April 12, 2024

The streets were dusty and unpaved but it was the month of December, so a slight winter breeze produced a pleasant feeling. I felt like wandering around some villages settled along the Nile River, the shore of which is so fertile that, for a moment, I forgot that I was in the middle of the desert.

I desperately wanted to continue my journey to some villages located a few kilometers away, but the modest smiles, kindness, and hospitality of the Sudanese were blocking my way, as I was forced to have some tea every couple of meters.

The different smells and the women’s colorful dresses made me think that I was at the heart of the African continent but the sweets, sand dunes, camels and Arabic language, which is the official language in the country, invited me to believe that, perhaps, I was in the Middle East instead.

I went up to the top of a dune, from where, very thoughtful, I observed those incredible, off the beaten track pyramid ruins.

Welcome to Sudan, the land where, finally, the Middle East meets beautiful Africa

This guide for traveling to Sudan contains everything you need to know, including a complete 2-week itinerary, and tips regarding transportation, accommodation, visas and much more!

In this Sudan travel guide you will find:

Table of Contents

• Quick travel tips
• Travel insurance for Sudan
• Books for traveling to Sudan
• Transportation in Sudan
• Money – How much does it cost?
• Sudan is an off the beaten track place
• A 2-week travel itinerary
• More Information

eSIM card for browsing when traveling in Sudan

With Holafly , you can now get an electronic SIM card for Sudan from home with just 2 clicks.

5% discount with the following code:

AGAINSTTHECOMPASS

💡 Sudan travel guide – Quick useful tips for traveling to Sudan

Best time to travel to Sudan –   Sudan is one of the hottest countries in the world . If you really want to enjoy your trip to Sudan, you must go in winter, from November to February. The rest of the year, the heat is just unbearable, especially in summer. I went there in December and, at noon, the temperature reached over 34ºC. 

Is it safe to travel to Sudan? – With one of the lowest crime rates in the world today, the tourist part of Sudan is one of the safest areas in Africa. However, there are tribal conflicts in Darfur province (west) and near the border with South Sudan. This violence is quite far from the touristic routes and, in the unlikely event that you managed to get close to there, the violence would never target foreigners. For further details, check out my article: Is it safe to travel to Sudan?

Language – Arabic is the official language. Nevertheless, like in any African country, Sudan is also home to several different ethnicities who speak their own local language, as well. Basic English is spoken by a significant part of the population, especially those with a higher level of education. Communicating with people, as well as asking for directions, doesn’t impose any real problems when traveling in Sudan.

How to get there – Most people travel to Sudan overland, either from Egypt or Ethiopia. By plane, people tend to come from Cairo, Doha, Dubai or Addis Ababa. I entered Sudan from Egypt. For further information, check out my post: How to cross from Egypt to Sudan overland

🪪 Visa for traveling to Sudan

You can get a visa in your home country, in Addis Ababa (capital of Ethiopia) and in Cairo and Aswan, Egypt. I got my visa in Aswan, a city located very close to the Sudanese border.

Once you are in Sudan, you also need to register and complete a few bureaucratic steps. 

For further details, check out my article: How to get a visa for Sudan

🚑 Travel Insurance for Sudan

Because of the sanctions, few insurance providers cover travel in Sudan. The one which does, however, is IATI Insurance , and I also recommend it for these reasons:

• They have loads of different plans for all travelers: from families to budget backpackers
• Covers for up to 1 year trips, good for overlanding around Africa
• Readers of Against the Compass readers can get an  exclusive 5% discount

📚 Recommended books for traveling in Sudan

Sudan Travel Guide by Bradt –  I highly recommend buying the guide from Bradt, the best book guide about Sudan out there. Bradt Guides has the most insightful guides about the most off the beaten track destinations.

The Sudanese people

Traveling in Sudan is such an enriching experience, due to the multiple, endless interactions with people, whose kindness and hospitality are part of their culture, as much as their language is. Besides a couple of archaeological sites , Sudan lacks actual tourist sites. Sudan is about all the people with whom you’ll share uncountable cups of tea, coffee, meals and, occasionally, especially in small villages, you’ll be invited to stay at their houses.

By the way, be aware that, from a religious point of view, Sudan is a very conservative society , Sunni Islam being the main religion. If you really want to enjoy and experience people’s hospitality at its best, you should respect their habits and rules. Outside of Khartoum, you should always wear long pants. Never talk to women, unless spoken to first and, even if they talk to you, don’t dare take a picture of them, without asking for their permission, first. If you are a couple, say that you are married, even if you are not. Otherwise, they wouldn’t understand it, as in their society that would be unacceptable.

Read: A guide for traveling to Egypt (itinerary + tips)

🛫 Transportation when traveling to Sudan

Remember to get travel insurance for Sudan IATI Insurance is one of the very few that covers travel in Sudan + COVID-19 5% discount if purchasing via this link

Public transportation –  Traveling around Sudan by public transport is pretty straightforward. Every day, throughout the day, from all cities, there are local minivans going in all directions. Prices are quite low and they leave once they are full. By the way, roads are in very good condition. 

Private Jeep – Many travelers prefer to hire a driver with a private jeep. I met a few foreigners who were traveling this way and, if you can afford it, you should know that it is very convenient, as you can visit many ruins which are very deep into the desert.

Hitchhiking – Very easy to hitch a ride.  Furthermore, since there’s practically only one road going in each direction, finding a vehicle going in the same direction as you is quite simple. 

Read: How to visit the Nubian pyramids of Sudan

💻 Internet and connectivity in Sudan

Internet – Since internet connection is practically non-existent, in Sudan, it’s advisable to plan your trip ahead. On several occasions, I wasn’t able to connect and had some trouble finding a place or trying to remember the name of a hotel. Outside the capital, especially in the north, Wi-Fi doesn’t exist and the only way to connect is through a SIM card, which works terribly slowly, meaning that you’ll barely be able to browse anything.

Khartoum is the only place where 3G works OK. Update February 2018 : According to Patrick from German Backpacker , 3G has improved, at least if you get an MTN Sim Card.

SIM Cards – They are sold everywhere. If you say you want a SIM Card, they might not understand you, so you should say: Shariha Sudani . A card should cost 5SDG, with a few calls. You need pay extra for having internet. There are several phone companies like  (Zain, MTN, and Sudantel), all of them offering different packages, always pretty cheap. MTN seems to be the most reliable one. Registration with your passport is always necessary.

eSIM for browsing, calling and traveling in Sudan

Basically, an eSIM is a regular SIM card with a digital format that works like a normal physical SIM card, with the added benefit that you can buy it from home before the beginning of your trip, hence avoiding the hassle of buying it at your destination. 

With Holafly , you can get a SIM Card for a wide range of destinations, including Sudan . 

Moreover, you can benefit from a 5% discount with the following code:  AGAINSTTHECOMPASS

Get a VPN for traveling in Sudan

You should always use a VPN when you travel, especially when you connect to public Wi-Fi networks.

Your connection will be much safer. 

Moreover, you will be able to access content which is typically censored in Sudan. 

I recommend ExpressVPN – Extremely easy to use, fast and cheap. 

If you want to learn more about VPN, check: Why you need a VPN for traveling .

💰 Money – How much does backpacking in Sudan cost?

Currency exchange.

Don’t exchange money at banks or official exchange offices.

Officially, the exchange rate is approximately:

1USD = 587 SDG

However, on the black market, in February 2018, the exchange rate was  1USD = 30SDG . You should always change on the black market. It’s better you change your money in Wadi Halfa, Khartoum or Sawakin, as you may have some troubles in exchanging money in the rest of the towns.

Please note that the exchange rate in Sudan is crazy and it keeps devaluating constantly. Prices provided in the following guide are correct in local currency but the USD exchange rate I provide may not be accurate.

Typical costs of backpacking in Sudan

In Sudan, one could easily travel for less than $20 a day. These are some of the most typical costs.

Note – I am using the USD/SDG exchange rate used on the black market.

Accommodation

Hostels – Dorms cost around 25SDG. Be aware that these aren’t hostels aimed at foreigners or backpackers but local Sudanese. They are extremely cheap but not very clean, unfortunately. 

Hotels – Mid-range hotels, where the Sudanese middle class stays, cost something between 100SDG and 175SDG.

A meal of foul costs 25SDG. If you order chicken, your bill would increase to 40-50SDG. A one-liter bottle of water costs 3SDG, whereas a cup of coffee costs 5SDG.

Transportation

These are the prices of some of the bus journeys I took:

Wadi Halfa to Abri (180km): 60SDG Abri to Dongola (230km): 80SDG Abri to Karima (200km): 60SDG

🍲 Sudanese food

Unfortunately, the food is not the highlight of backpacking in Sudan. Foul , which is a sort of black bean soup with plenty of peanut oil, is the national dish and what you are going to eat every day, to the extent that you will really get sick of it! If you are lucky, surprisingly, in some places, they add some sort of local cheese on top of it. One piece of advice. When your order foul , tell the waiter: ” Mafi Zed ”, which means ”without oil”. 

Furthermore, in some places, grilled barbecue chicken can be found. Additionally, some restaurants in villages close to the Nile, also serve fried fish but, the day I ordered it, I saw that they had all the fish piled up in a dirty cupboard, without any sort of protection. For breakfast, it is relatively easy to find boiled eggs, accompanied by the delicious and strong Arabic coffee.

In Khartoum and Port Sudan, you can find a greater variety of food, including Western meals.

Read: Egypt off the beaten track

🤔 Should you travel to Sudan? A real off the beaten track destination

Before backpacking in Sudan, you should know that this a real off the beaten track destination where tourism infrastructure is not even in an embryonic stage. Most of the country lacks tourist hotels and most restaurants are just simple shacks with very poor hygiene conditions. Internet connection is practically non-existent and you’ll barely meet other travelers or backpackers. My point is that, whereas Sudan is an unforgettable experience, this is not a country for beginner backpackers.

📍 Sudan Travel Guide – Ultimate Sudan itinerary

This Sudan itinerary goes from the north (Wadi Halfa, Egyptian border) to the south (Sawakin, Ethiopian border), with a few detours to the Red Sea (Port Sudan) and the border with Eritrea (Kassala).

I was in Sudan a little longer than two weeks, entering from Egypt and ending my trip in Khartoum. I would say that 85% of the most interesting sites in the country are located between these two points and, if you manage your time well, you can easily visit these places in just two weeks . Unfortunately, I didn’t have time to visit Kassala and Port Sudan. If you want to visit them, you should add at least one extra week or ten days to your itinerary. 

2 weeks Sudan itinerary

Abri and the nubian villages, soleb temple.

• Meroë / Shendi
• Naqa and Musawwarat es-Sufra
• Omdurman (Sufi dancing and the camel market)

Extending your Sudan itinerary

Map of the things to do in sudan.

If you come from Egypt, Wadi Halfa will be your first point of contact with Sudanese society. This small town doesn’t have anything interesting to offer travelers but you will have to spend your first night here, exchange some money and, basically, chill out for a bit after your hectic journey from Egypt. By the way, bear in mind that, unless you come from Egypt, it doesn’t make a lot of sense to visit Wadi Halfa, as this is a mere border city.

Where to stay in Wadi Halfa  – There are an endless number of basic hotels targeting local people coming from Egypt. Usually, these hotels offer rooms with five beds at 20-25SDG ($0.80 – $1.04). I stayed in Aleen Halfa . Be aware that these hotels are not very clean. Welcome to Sudan.

Read: How to cross from Egypt to Sudan overland

The Nubians, one of the most ancient civilizations in Africa, are an ethnic group which originated in present-day Egypt and Sudan. The Nubians have a long history that dates back to the Egyptian pharaohs and they ruled Egypt during the 8th century B.C. The Nubians have strong cultural differences, identified in their literature, music and poetry, and they speak their own language, which, even though it’s hard to imagine, is a non-written language. Today, Nubian people live spread across southern Egypt and northern Sudan, established on the shores of the Nile river.

Abri is the main town and the perfect base from where to explore the villages around the area. You should just follow the river, hopping from village to village, through the foul and palm plantations. In my experience, Nubians are the most hospitable people in the country. Visiting those villages was the highlight of my trip to Sudan, not only because of people’s kindness but also, because of the landscape, as you see beautiful, large green fields flourishing in the middle of the desert, thanks to the fast-flowing river.

For more information, read: Tales of the Nubian people in Sudan

Where to stay in Abri – Megzoub Guest House – Definitely, this is the best guest house in Sudan. Megzoub is a great, wise man who offers double and single rooms with pretty clean toilets. However, his prices are quite high, compared to the country average. His rate may start at 250SDG ($10) but you could easily bring it down 100SDG ($4.10), at least for me and a friend who was there recently. You can contact Megzoub by calling any of his phone numbers: +249122886586 and +249911220984.

How to get to Abri from Wadi Halfa – There are minivans which leave at every hour, starting from quite early in the morning. Price: 60SDG ($2.50)

One of the most well-preserved ruins in the country and, founded by Amenhotep II, Soleb temple was built to worship Amun-Ra. It is claimed that the architect might have been Amenhotep, son of Apu, whose mortuary temple can be found in Luxor . Soleb is located halfway to Dongola (the next destination after Abri). You could visit it on a day trip from Abri or on your way to Dongola

How to get from Soleb to Abri – Soleb is 50km from Abri. Megzoub, the owner of the guest house in Abri, can take you there in his car for 400SDG ($17, round trip). On the other hand, if you want to go by yourself, you should take a mini-van to Wawa. The temple is located on an island in the middle of the river. You can only get there by boat but there are local fishermen who can take you there cheaply. One-way bus ticket to Wawa is 20SDG costs ($0.80) and entering the temple 60SDG ($2.50).

Dongola is a city which does not have much to offer the traveler. However, if you are heading from Abri to Karima, probably, you will probably have to spend one night here, as there is no direct transport and the minivan service that runs from Dongola to Karima doesn’t run until very late. In this city, there’s not much to do besides wandering around the main bazaar, eating grilled chicken and socializing with the locals.

Note that there is no direct transportation from Abri to Karima but you can get a direct bus from Wadi Halfa to Karima, without stopping in Dongola.

Where to stay in Dongola – Alnuallem  is the only good hotel in the city. It offers double rooms at 175SDG ($7.30). These are the coordinates: 19.172898 30.468067.

How to get to Dongola from Abri – There are frequent minivans, being the last one leaves at around 5 or 6 pm, but you should double check with Megzoub.  Price: 80SDG ($3.30).

Welcome to one of the most touristic spots in Sudan and where, probably, you’ll meet the first bunch of travelers (if you are coming from Egypt). Karima is a lovely area which is famous for being home to three of the most important archaeological sites in Sudan, containing a large number of Nubian pyramids, some of them in very good condition. The best about it is that you might have the pyramids just to yourself.

• Jebel Barkal : The best-preserved group of pyramids and the site surrounded by the prettiest nature.
• Nuri:  The pyramids from this site are in a deplorable state but that’s the beauty of them.
• Al-Kurru:  Almost completely destroyed, as the locals took the stones to build their houses

For more information about the pyramids, read: How to visit the Nubian pyramids in Sudan

Where to stay in Karima – I stayed in Al-Nassr , a very simple hotel frequented by Sudanese. Price can be negotiated but I paid 100SDG ($4.10) for a double room with private bathroom. Update: In 2018, travelers are already paying 150SDG.   Another alternative would be a fancy guest house called Nubian Rest House , which has double semi-luxury rooms. However, I heard that they are now charging $220 for just one night. They are crazy and target people who travel on a tour. In the Nubian pyramids article I wrote, I provide further details about the location.

How to get to Karima from Dongola – The minivans leave from the morning, but as very few locals use that route, you might have to wait for a while until the bus is full. Price: 60SDG ($2.50).

Shendi is just a small, unattractive town which you can use as a base to visit the pyramids of Meroë . The most interesting part of Shendi is its lively bazaar.

How to get from Karima to Shendi –  To get there from Karima, you should first take a minivan to Atbara. They leave early in the morning and cost 130SDG ($5.40) for a 3-hour journey. From there, you can catch a 2-hour big bus to Shendi for 50SDG ($2.10). Alternatively, you could get off on the road, before getting to Atbara and hitchhike from there. That’s what I did.

Where to stay in Shendi – I didn’t stay but there’s a local hotel called El Kawther (16.696079, 33.424961), which is supposed to be good. Alternatively, you can also stay in a kind of apartment, which is close to where the bus dropped you, 50 meters from the green mosque. There’s no sign but it’s a pink building with many water tanks on top. It has fully furnished, 2-room apartments with fridge, TV, stove and pots. It costs around $10 per night, which can be split by several people.

The only proper touristy place, meaning that here you’ll find an archaeological site surrounded by a fence where they charge an entrance fee and there are locals selling souvenirs. The royal cemetery of Meroë is composed of 100 narrow pyramids spread across a vast desert of orange sand dunes. Most of them are quite well-preserved and, at the end of 2016, the site was still under restoration. Ticket price varies and it will depend on your negotiation skills. For more information, read:  How to visit the Nubian pyramids of Sudan

How to get to Meroë from Karima – The ruins of Meroë are located right next to the road, meaning that there is no direct bus going there. If you come straight from Karima, follow the same route as going to Shendi but get off 50km before. If you want to go from Shendi, take a bus to Kabushiya and then, you can easily hitchhike the remaining few kilometers.

Where to stay in Meroë -You have 5 options. First , you could stay in Khartoum and come to Meroë on a day trip, which is what most travelers do. Second , as I mentioned previously, you could stay in Shendi. Third , there are several resting places along the road between Atbara and Shendi, where the truck drivers spend the night for as little as 5SDG ($0.30). Basically, they have a bunch of deck chairs placed outside. I stayed here 🙂 Fourth , you may stay at the Meroe Tented Camp, which is a desert camp with relatively luxurious tents. They used to ask $42 for one night but, according to Patrick from German Backpacker , they now ask for $190. They are just crazy and, clearly, not targeting backpackers. And fifth , you could just set up your own tent among the dunes!

Naqa and Musawwarat es-Sufra

The most off the beaten track Nubian temples in the world, Naqa and Musawwarat es-Sufra are located in the middle of the desert, several kilometers away from the road. Getting there is a bit tricky as there are no signs and you need to go over sand dunes.

A traveler claimed that he went there on a small, normal car but you need a really good driver and, definitely, it’s better to go there on a 4×4.

From Khartoum, the price would oscillate something between $100 and $150. It’s quite expensive.

Alternatively, in Shendi, which is the closest town to the temples, you could look for a 4×4 owner and ask this person to take you there. The cost would be significantly lower than from Khartoum. Andy, the same traveler who went there on a small car, said that he got a car for 400SDG ($20). He visited Naqa but, when he arrived in Mussawarat, they wanted to charge him $20 for visiting it and bargaining was not possible. Be aware of this.

Located very close to the capital, Omdurman is a city that has very little interest but is famous for having some of the most popular events among tourists:

Sufi dancing – Sufism is the mystical or spiritual branch of Islam. Their faith is not based on logic but on revelation. They are those Sunni Muslims who perform a spiritual dance while they get high on drugs. This psychedelic dancing takes place on Friday afternoons. Where? In Hamid El-Nil Mosque . You’ll be definitely meeting other tourists. For more information, check out this amazing photo essay from the  Candy Trail travel blog.

The camel market – Personally, I didn’t go there, as I’ve seen several camel markets in the Middle East before, but if you’ve never seen more than 2,000 camels gathered all together, I am sure you are gonna love this one. How to get there? First of all, take a bus to Omdurman (either from Shendi or Khartoum). In Khartoum, buses depart from Al Araby bus station. The bus will drop you off at the main souk. From there, you should take another bus to Souk Libya (7km). Once in Souk Libya , take the last bus to Moelih, the actual camel market. You’ll know where it is because everybody else will get off there.

The capital Khartoum

If you come from Egypt, you should arrive in Khartoum in two weeks, approximately. Khartoum is a city in which to rest and eat something different from foul  and grilled chicken. Honestly, there’s not much to do besides visiting the confluence of both the Blue and White Niles. In Khartoum, one can have fun just wandering around the endless souks and hanging out with the locals. By the way, if you want to hang out in a nice hotel, Corinthia Hotel, the best one in town, has the best internet and you can spend as much time as you want in the reception area.

For more information, read: 24 hours in Khartoum

How to get to Khartoum – Al Araby is one of the main bus stations in Khartoum. From here, buses come and go in all directions. From Shendi, you can take a bus for 20SDG ($0.80). 4 hours, with traffic.

Where to stay in Khartoum – Couchsurfing is easy in Khartoum but also, there’s a hostel called Hostelling International Khartoum. These are the coordinates:  15.591484, 32.539680. There’s also a camping area next to the river, situated very close to the confluence of the Nile. It’s called Blue Nile Sailing Club. These are the coordinates:  15.611694, 32.534409

The following places (Port Said, Suakin and Kassala) are amazing to visit. However, you should add at least one week or 10 extra days to the previous two-week itinerary.

Located at the border with Eritrea, Kassala is a city that lies at the foot of a beautiful peak belonging to the Taka Mountains. In Kassala you will find a large number of different ethnicities, including Beja and Rashadia . An interesting spice souk, plenty of colors and meeting different kinds of people are the things that make Kassala become a unique place. By the way, most likely, you’ll be the only foreigner wandering around this area.

For more information, check out this awesome photo essay from Candy Trail Travel Blog.

Port Said and Suakin

Located on the Red Sea, almost 800km from Khartoum, these two cities are, geographically, culturally and architecturally, quite different from the rest of Sudan.

Suakin –  With a peculiar architecture that dates back to the 19th century, Suakin was an important place during the Ottoman Empire, as it was the center of slavery exportation and where Muslims left from on their pilgrimage to Mecca. Today, the Turkish government is investing some efforts in restoring the buildings. Where to stay? There are a few hotels but, apparently, some of them might tell you that foreigners are not allowed to stay in Suakin. You can try but, if you want to be more comfortable, I suggest you go to Port Sudan, located just 60km away.

Port Sudan –  Port Sudan is the place where you want to go if you wish to disconnect from the desert and swim in the bluest water. This is most cosmopolitan city in the country, as well as the cleanest. Where to stay? There is one expensive hotel called Coral on the Corniche. If you want something very cheap and basic, you can stay at Hotel Boheine (19.6118533, 37.2208425), near the sea, or at Hotel Alatoun (19.612733,37.213873), near the souk.

By the way, like its neighbor Egypt, the Red Sea in Sudan is home really impressive corals, so here you can do some of the best snorkeling  and diving ever.

How to get to Port Sudan and Suakin? – From Khartoum, there are direct buses but you could also go from Atbara, the city where you took a second bus, on your way from Karima to Meroë.

❗ More information for traveling to Sudan

📢 In my Travel Resources Page you can find the list of all the sites and services I use to book hotels, tours, travel insurance and more.

All guides and articles for traveling in Sudan destination

• Tales of Nubian People
• Travel Guide to Nubian Pyramids
• Is Sudan Safe?
• Solo Female Travel Guide to Sudan
• Visa Guide for Sudan

Travel guides to other countries in Africa

• Ethiopia Travel Guide
• Eritrea Travel Guide
• Somaliland Travel Guide
• Travel Guide to Egypt
• Libya Travel Guide
• Mali Travel Guide
• Travel Guide to Mauritania
• Tunisia Travel Guide

86 comments

Excellent review. Stunned how the crime rates in tourist areas are among the lowest on earth. The US State Department never reported that one. Meanwhile, driving through the West End of my hometown in the States I am likely to get popped after dark. Crazy stuff. I met 2 young awesome South Sudanese kids recently who moved to the USA to play high school basketball. Both landed scholarships to prestigious Tulane University. What niche kids, embodying the generous spirit of the Sudanese people.

Thanks for sharing 🙂

Hey Ryan, thanks for your refreshing comment. I’m really happy to hear that there are Sudanese kids who get scholarships for studying abroad. The youngest country in the world is going through quite a lot of struggles and it’s good to know that some its citizens get opportunities like this one. Cheers mate,

Very interesting and useful article about a destination that not many people visit! I bet you didn’t see many tourists around you 🙂 Loved the photos too btw.

Hey, Cinthya! I just saw a few backpackers and 4 or 5 old couples traveling with a private guide. That’s it!

Hey! Thanks for a ridiculously good guide which eased some of my concerns. Reading your take on it, it seems similar to the experience of travelling around Iran without an escort (outside of the large cities) and I would do anything to have more similar experiences.

As I understand it, it has the same situation with ATMs and currency exchange as well. Can I assume the black market is merely people hanging out at some spot holding calculators, or is the set up different? Will they accept Egyptian pounds at the same advantageous rate? Is it possible to exchange on the Egyptian side and/or in intermediate cities as well? Grateful for any questions answered!

Hey mate, hope you are all right. I assume you are coming from Egypt then? Right after crossing the border, the first people you’ll meet will be locals trying to exchange your currency. Yes, they accept Egyptian Pounds. To be honest, I didn’t exchange with them, as I thought I would find a better rate in Wadi Halfa, the next city. But actually, their rate was almost, as good as the one in the city, so you can exchange your EGP with them, and exchange your USD or € in Wadi Halfa. In Wadi Halfa, there are no people hanging around with tons of bills and calculators but you need to ask at the different shops, to see who is willing to exchange your cash. Don’t worry, they love foreign currency so it’s fairly easy to find them.

Much appreciated! Yes, from the Egyptian border. I wanted to visit Ethiopia, but I dislike to fly as there is so much you miss in between. Therefore, I was more than happy to see that Sudan is not only an alternative but a seemingly interesting destination. Thanks again and good luck on your next trip!

Your welcome and all the best!

Hi Joan, This is a great site, thanks. My girlfriend and I are in Aswan waiting to collect Sudan visas. We were wondering if you can register in Abri rather than Wadi Halfa as we are hoping to go straight there. Did you hear of any option like this? Cheers Tim

Hi, Tim! No, you can’t, unfortunately. If you didn’t do it in Wadi Halfa, you will have to do it in Dongola. But anyways, if you come by public transport, you can’t go straight to Abri but you have to spend the night in Wadi Halfa. The bus will arrive in Wadi Halfa pretty late and even the drivers always spend the night there. The people that go straight to Khartoum also must spend the night there. You can register in Wadi Halfa in the morning and then go to Abri. That’s what I did. Good luck!

This article just saved my life lol. Thank you so so much. Amazing information.

Glad it did 🙂

Hi Joan, Thanks for the excellent guide! I share your experience that the Sudanese people are some of the warmest I’ve come across. One thing though. Officially it is required – or at least it was required when I was there in 2011 – to aquire permits if visiting sites including the pyramids. Has this changed or do you simply consider there to be no need for permits? I didn’t aquire any when I was there, but on my way to Meroe I were asked for them at a checkpoint. I was told to turn around but after some discussion I was allowed to continue to the next city (supposedly to get a bus back to Khartoum). Since the bus driver couldn’t care less about permits he let me off at the pyramids which were amazing 🙂

On a side note: Sudan has some of the best diving in the Red sea, which one could argue to be the main draw for tourism in the country…

Hey Mattis! That’s surprising that you needed permits to visit the pyramids. I am pretty sure that you don’t need them anymore. No one asked me for any permit and didn’t meet any tourist who had an issue with that!

Yeah, I also heard that Sudan has very good divings. I don’t dive myself but perhaps I should include it in the guide. Thanks for the reco, cheers!

Thanks, hopefully there’s no need! I may have been mistaken in saying that they are needed for the pyramids per se – I could confuse them with the photography permit that you needed to take photos in the country in general. Though I’m also unsure whether that is gone now, I never applied for it.

Well there’s probably not much to be said about the diving guide-wise, since it’s all liveaboard diving and the majority of the boats start in Egypt. While I did meet a guy who jumped on our boat last minute, I think this is an exception to the rule of booking ahead. Cheers

Hi Mattis and Joan. Unfortunately there is a need for a travel permit to see the pyramids and probably going anywhere from Khartoum. My girlfriend and I were stopped on the way a few days ago and made to get a bus back to Khartoum cos we did not have one. We were ok coming from the north all the way down to the capital though. The travel permit and photo permit are the same form. It is free to get at the Ministry of Tourism, which can be found here: 15°35′52″N 32°34′37.52″E It is on Bashir Enefeidi Street, which is on the opposite side of the airport from downtown on the east side of the city. The office is on the second floor and a you’ll need a passport photo and copy of your passport and visa page. They are really nice there and have a photocopier and can make you copies of the permit to give to police at checkpoints. It takes about ten minutes and you can list all the places you want to visit and take photos.

Thanks for your feedback man!

However, you were not asked a pyramid permit. You were asked a travel permit which is required for anyone leaving Khartoum. If you enter from Egypt or Ethiopia and you don’t pass by Khartoum, there is no need to have this permit. Also, if your final destination is Khartoum, which means that you don’t leave the city, you don’t need the permit either.

In my Sudan visa article, I was explaining this process which you also explained very well: https://againstthecompass.com/en/visa-for-sudan/

I know. It’s a non-sense law.

Ah ok. Then no. Apart from the travel permit there was no need any other separate permit for the pyramid that we could see and we were not asked for one. Careful at the pyramid entrance they tried to charge SDG270 each or $20. But stand your ground and tell them it is 100 each.

Hello Joan. I was wondering where you went after Sudan. Did you fly home? If so did you manage to find a cheap international flight? What do you think is the best way to get back to Europe from this part of the world?

Hi Emily, apologies for my late reply. I flew from Khartoum to Spain with Qatar Airlines and, as far as I can remember, it was pretty cheap!

Hi Joan I am looking to cross from eygpt into Sudan in October as a solo female. Did u experience any issues along the way or did you feel relatively safe

Hi! From a safety point of view, there is no problem at all. From a comfort point of view, it’s a fucked up journey :p But there are plenty of Sudanese women who will be more than happy to have a chat with you, you will have fun 🙂

Well, I’m a man. If you are a man, things are different

Tim, Joan, Albeit a bit late but thank you for the information! Best

Hello Joan,

I might be travelling to Sudan for work. I really liked your blog and posts related to your trip in Sudan. You give another perspective than what most embassies and newspaper give. May I ask you when did you go there? Things change fast there and it possible that the atmosphere today or next month are not the same as when you were there.

Thanks a lot in advance!

Hi Luna, I traveled there in December 2016. Yes, things change fast in Sudan but I wouls say that they change to good, as tourism is increasing day by day. Cheers 🙂

Thank you for sharing, I found very useful info here, I was delighted to find this web site. This is an incredibly inspiring story, I love it!

Hi Joan, excellent helpful review. Can you tell me briefly what clothing you would recommend for female travelers in Sudan? Thanks, Terry

Hello. I just published this article, which definitely answers your question 🙂 https://againstthecompass.com/en/visit-sudan-female-traveler/

Thanks for the source of information. I went Aswan (200 egp with ferry from Abu Simbel) – > Wadi Halfa (150 SDG minivan) – > Dongola (70 SDG bus that was going to Atbara) – > Karima (130 SDG minivan then 50 SDG bus from Atbara) – > Meroe Pyramids (15 SDG truck to Shendi and 70 SDG bus) – > Khartoum and going Ethiopia soon, which supposedly is 270 SDG to the border. Did not bargain any transport.

Seems like you have kept updating things well. The SDG just had a hell of a week and the government seems to try stabilize it again. But we got 24 per USD and 1.35 per EGP (did not bargain this one) in Wadi Halfa last week. Which at the time made changing into USD first pointless and perhaps even a loss, but it has been crazy.

Sleeping in the desert by the pyramids is fine as well, even without a tent. Got a bit chilly due to the wind around 3 AM or so but better than superheated rooms with mosquitoes. Although I did have a beetle roll a ball of shit up to me. We asked to get off at “Bayyarawaya” or some similar pronounciation. Use it in combination with Haram (which means Pyramid in Arabic, but also “religiously forbidden” depending on pronounciation). Saying Meroe just confused them as there is a town opposite Karima named such.

Did registration overdue at the airport for 535 SDG, less than 20 minutes work and the airport is so central. Didn’t even give them photos but they charged me 5 SDG to copy passport and visa.

Youth Hostel in Khartoum is 70 SDG per night atm in dorm and they can give you a paper to help in the registration, but I don’t know if it changed anything.

I HIGHLY recommend taking busses and not minivans if you are even remotely tall or value space. Unfortunately not always available and more of a point to point form of transportation.

When it comes to food, I never had foul as expensive as 25 SDG, outrageous! :] Always hovering around 15 and often satisfying two people. And those 5 SDG falafel sandwiches sure could use some vegetables or sauce added to it…

So here are some ramblings from me. But all you already have here is more than sufficient to navigate Sudan and feel somewhat confident in doing so. Thanks!

Hey, thank you so much for this trip report! Really appreciate it 🙂 Good to know that this currency devaluation won’t last for long. I will keep an eye on it! Also didn’t know that you could register at the airport. Enjoy Ethiopia 🙂

The information is good. However, fuul is not the national dish – although it is eaten frequently (maybe a sandwich in the western world is a suitable comparison). Aseeda or kisra would be considered as more of a national dish. They will put a sauce over it such as tagiliya (closest comparison I can give is bolognese) or bamiya (gloopy okra based). There are other sauces, including a kind of chicken curry but I don’t know the names of these. I think it is a bit of a misconception that it is not possible to get good food – although it can be difficult as a tourist unless you have a local to help or speak Arabic. Often the best food is in peoples homes rather than restaurants.

Hi James, I am so jealous that you tried this dish! Yes, I fully agree that, in this part of the world, best meals are ALWAYS eaten at home, so in Egypt and many other Arab countries 🙂

Dear Joantow,

I visirde Port Sudan end of December.

There is only the expensive top hotel Coral on the corniche (avenue along the coast). Stayed in Boheine hotel at 450 sdg (19.6118533, 37.2208425) near the sea. Also at Alatoun ( 19.612733,37.213873) near the souk. Both already basic.

Suakin was a disappointment. Only piles of coral stones remain on the island and two reconstructed mosques and the customs house. Lots of poverty and waste everywhere.

Best regards,

Thank you for this great, specific information Jozef. I have updated the guide accordingly 🙂

Dear Joantow, A short update from Khartoum. If you do not like the accomdation @ the Youth Hostel, in the same street about 100 meter west there’s affordable Kh2 hotel run by hospitable Khaled, who speaks fine English.

Omdurman heading public transport leaves from Jackson bus station west from the Train station. In Omdurman, you find Imam Al-Mahdi tomb at GPS code 15.639591, 32.488507, while Named Al-Neel tomb, where the sufi chanting/dance takes place can be found at GPs 15.625162, 33.464271.

Really helpful, thanks!

Are there any restrictions with regards to bringing cameras or drones into the country?

Hi Andrew, I have no idea about drones but cameras, you are supposed to get a camera permit but seriously, nobody asks for it… I didn’t get it and was my whole journey with a camera hanging from my shoulder.

Not sure if I posted this one before: I have an Egyptian-licensed car, and was told in Automobile Club in CAiro that I need a “Carnet de Passage” (called Tryptique now in Egypt) to cross to Sudan. It cost around US$150 (plus a bigger deposit) there. Is it recognized (useful) by Sudan? In the past I had the experience (in Syria) having bought this but not being recognized and having to buy again on the border. Or is it better I wait and buy it at the border? Is it cheaper there? Thanks, Michel

Hi Michel, sorry but I can’t help you with this as I don’t really know about this… I guess that the company should have experience in border crossings from other clients right? They should know that

Wonderful blog!Thanks for giving out the best.

First of all thank you very much for your information.

If you plan to update the Sudan part maybee you think about to mention that a Sudan visa has to be used max. 60 days after beeing issued. That is what different sources in the internet tell.

Hey Joan, I just wanted to thank you for the probably most amazing travel guide to Sudan out there. I’m planning on travelling there in winter and sure will use your great ideas for my trip. Cheers, Felix

Amazing man, thank you and have loads of fun there!

I have some Updates: THE TRAVEL PERMIT TO MOVE AROUND THE COUNTRY IS NOT LONGER NEEDED I red that at Lonely Planet Travelforum and I went to the Ministry of Tourism, Wildlife in Karthoum and they also told me its not necessary anymore. 1$ at the black market was between 38 SGD in Wadi Halfa and three weeks later in Karthoum about 45 SGD ( July 2018)

Crossing Sudan to Egypt Overland: Bus from Wadi Halfa to Aswan 250 SGD 132 SGD leaving fee 130 Egyptian Pound Entering Fee (and 25$ for Visa on arrival)

Save travel!

Hi there! Apologies for my late reply but it is been some crazy days! I appreciate so much your updates and will update the post in a few days! Cheers!

This is excellent! I’d love to go but I’m terrified of the logistics once on the ground. And my fiancé is 6’4” and probably wouldn’t like the minibuses very much…

Also, in the first part of the article (before the list of destinations), you wrote Kalassa a couple times instead of Kassala. 🙂

Hi Sarah! Yes, to be very honest, Sudan involves a bit of hard-backpacking… However, I met quite a few people above 50 who were traveling with a private guide and absolutely loved it. Would you travel with a guide?

Thanks for the correction. I will change it right away!

Sarah, Just a quick response – I’ve been traveling in Sudan twice now (once with my girlfriend) and I am 6’33. Normal coaches (quite nice ones at that) are common on most major routes and I don’t find Sudan to be any worse than most other places in that regard. Granted the world does not seem to be built for my size but what do…

Thanks for some wonderful articles on your blog! I’m going to Sudan in about a month and a half after traveling through Egypt. I’m so excited and reading your few articles just makes me think I’ll have a great time off the grid.

I have one or two questions if you don’t mind 🙂

Did you sleep at some people’s house? Did you just have a sleeping bag for your whole trip? Do people ask money when you hitchhike? (although I don’t mind giving since they welcome me and i use their oil :D)

Thanks mate! Peter

Hi Peter, great to hear that you are going to Sudan! Here my replies: 1 – One day, a random house invitation. 2 – I always travel with a sleeping bag but didn’t use it there. Mine is too warm 3 – They never asked me for any money Cheers!

ihi great read thanks… one thing… i need to gett a visa from the UK to travel to sudan in January 2019 . Do you know anyone who can supply the letter of invitation?

Hi Paul, I suggest you contact any reasonably good hotel in Khartoum. They can help you with the LOI for an extra cost. Cheers,

A standard source is Hotel Acropole in Khartoum. Not a “backpacker” price, but pleasant place with owners very useful other bureaucratic tasks.

Many thanks for your replies. I will use the Acropole as they have been very helpful. cheers P

Thank you so much for some really great articles on your blog! I’m going to Sudan in november through Egypt. I’ve wanted to go for a long time, and your blog is what made me decide that its really is possible to do it! 😀

I just have a few questions if you don’t mind; Approximately how much money (dollars) do you think I need for lets say 3-4 weeks in Sudan travelling the same route as you did?? I dont really like to travel with a lots of cash but I understand its necessary. I´m planning to cross the border from Sudan to Ethiopia after, so I hope to change the rest of my SDG to Birr on the border.

If I understand correctly, you don’t need a photo permit anymore? I’m a photographer, planning to taking lots of pictures, in your experience how did most people react to this? I’m not looking for still pictures.. Travelled a lot in West African countries before, where it mostly were no problem.

Im travelling alone, anyone else travelling in Sudan in Nov-Dec of this year?? Or anyone with some extra tip, please share 🙂

Hi Victorya! I would say that a backpacking budget would never be higher than 20-30USD a day. As per the photo and travel permit, yes, it is not needed anymore according to quite a few travelers. As per the photos, everybody is pretty cool with that, except for some women. However, since you are also a woman, I am sure that it will be different.

FYI I will be there from the start of January and will be getting visa from somewhere in East Africa in Nov/Dec. Acropole Hotel has been brilliant and helpful.

Thanks for your blog! It was very usefull for my recent trip. The consulate in Aswan seems to stop issueing visas. Maybe even closed. End of September several people had to return to Cairo for visas. But looks like embassy in Cairo issues visas quickly and without LOI (although the cost is 150USD).

Crazy. Will need to update the article then. Thanks for the update 🙂

Yeah, I was lucky enough to find it out before and successfully got my visa (1 entry, 2 months, 50USD) in Moscow embassy without LOI, I did online bookings of a hotel and flight, that cancelled later. Seems sudanese facilitate visa issue process in general, so it would be usefull to contact a home or nearby embassy before going. I can confirm that you can jump from one bus to another on the border without paying extra, so I managed to reach Abri same day I left Egypt (Dongola could be possible as well, but I prefered to follow your route). Also it seems to be another bus Aswan – Khartoum via another road, but this case you skip Abu Simbel. Meroe, Naqa and Massawarat are also very easy from Khartoum for one day. You just need to start a journey from Khartoum early, buy a ticket to Atbara (not Shendi), take off next to pyramid site (I was there at 9am). After visit one you flag on the road to return to Shendi. In Shendi you can negotiate with a simple Hyundai taxi to go to Naqa and Massawarat, the road is not as awful, but quite hard. I paid 1000 pounds (20USD now) for all together. I didn’t return to Shendi (40 km back) and asked the driver to leave me at the check point next to the exit from the desert. The policemen helped me to hitchhike back to Khartoum as it was Saturday and all passing by buses where full.

Oh, the registration is possible at the border! After getting the entry stamp, the same officer will easily make a registration (it costs 540 pounds or so, a money changer sits opposite border control).

Man, you have done great at getting to Sudan. I always wanted to go there but due to me not be able to get a visa from Egypt, I had to leave it from my itinerary. I was so close in Aswan!

why you didn’t get it?

Hi guys Do you know about the situation in Sudan, I will be in Aswan soon and I wonder about the safety of a travel in Sudan.

your answers 🙂 https://againstthecompass.com/en/safe-travel-sudan/

Going to Ethiopia: Be as early as possible at al Qadarif. The bus station is big, confusing, in the middle of nowhere and English is not too common. I took a minibus to al Qadarif City. From the town a tuk tuk to a local bus station with minibuses to Gallabat. Both rides were pretty long. On the border are money changers. If you have real money they offer a better rate for ETB. Remember, in Ethiopia it is nearby impossible to change any Birr back to real money. I was told, on the Ethiopian side oft he border is a Hotel or something like this. Before noon are buses to Gondar.

The Visa Be ca. 7.30h at the embassy in Kartoum. They have a queue system. If there are to many applicants you will be sent away for the next morning. You can collect your visa the same day after 15 h. The validity oft he visa starts with the day of issue.

Going to Wadi Halfa The ferry from/to Abu Simbel does not operate on fridays.

I forgot. From Kartoum are buses to Gonder etc. Close to the Ethiopian embassy is a Ethiopian club. You will see the corresponding advertisments. As I came from Kassala this was no option to me.

hey joan, do you have any news from travellers who visited sudan since the unrests started last december? what do you think about going there now? i got my visa and planning to go there soon but only have informations from news outlets. thanks a lot! best wishes stefan

Honestly, nobody has told me anything about this topic but this usually means that the current unrests haven’t really affected any traveler

Hi I was there for 10 days in late January. There was armed guards on all street corners in central Khartoum, and even tanks near the nile bridges. I bumped into a ‘tourist policeman’ who accompanied me to the pryamids. He and the taxi driver wouldnt take me to omdurman souk on one day because of protests. Otherwise I had no trouble and Sudan was the most wonderful place. Prices are cheaper than chips and the people are so warm and friendly – probably some of the friendliest i met (i was going cape town to cairo) They bought me meals and wanted nothing in return. Clearly a state of emergency changes things somewhat but the people are great!

hi john, thanks for your message, good to read about your experiences. sounds like you had an epic trip travelling from capetown to cairo. all the best, stefan

cheers.. it was virtually the best three months of my life! everyone so friendly so much fun and not one bad day! This blog site helped alot re Sudan too.

great to hear paul (sorry for calling you john;). im looking forward a lot! hope youll be on the road again soon.

Just came back from the consulate in Aswan. Time to wait for the visa is 3 days without any explanation. They said a “sponsor” or booking is important. Not sure if they check it though. Fee is still 150$

thanks for the update!

Thanks for this great guide, which I used to research my bicycle trip through Egypt and Sudan in early 2020. Just barely made it home in March before they closed everything down! I really appreciated your detailed notes, especially about visiting the archaeological sites. Just wanted to mention that I stayed in Dongola at the Olla Hotel and it was actually one of my favorite towns in Sudan. The market area was one of the friendliest and most relaxing I found anywhere in Sudan.

Thanks, Alissa for sharing your experience and glad you made it home just in time 🙂

Is yellow fever vaccine certificate needed to visit Sudan? I found conflicting information online (CDC: Required for arriving travelers from all countries if traveler is ≥1 year of age; WHO: a yellow fever vaccination certificate is required for travellers aged 1 year or over arriving from countries with risk of yellow fever transmission). Thanks a lot!

I have never known much about vaccine requirements for each country. I have all exotic vaccines but not sure which one is needed for each country

Thank you Joan for an amazingly well made travel guide. It made us decide to go to Sudan without your contribution we wouldn’t have really known much about this country. The only issue for us, as experienced backpackers but on budget, is if Sudan is still a cheap destination since your trip in 2016: there is crazy inflation and almost all the updates you give are about prices going up wheter for visas, or for attractions, or for accomodations, we are starting to wonder what the total expanse now in 2023 is gonna sum up to.

I am planning to go there too, but the VISA is an issue seems the embassy requires TRAVEL AGENCY LETTER.. AND quote is easy over 2000 USD for 4 days.. it’s not making sense to go through that troubles.. i am a backpacker, i am still searching other way to get the visa and try to travel in reasonable budget …

here’s the latest update on how to get a visa for Sudan: https://againstthecompass.com/en/visa-for-sudan/

What´s your take on travel to Sudan now that the violence has spiraled out of control this month and the country is widely feared on the verge of civil war? I´ve always admired how you cover what many consider dicey or dangerous destinations in a measured, rational way. But surely even you would have to admit that Sudan now seems like a no go?

Hi David, I wouldn’t go to Sudan as of today, and I don’t think you can go there anyways.

Hi I liked the article. Just one quick thing ma fi literally means there is not bidun (بِدون) means without.

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Warnings and insurance

FCDO advises against all travel to Sudan 

Your travel insurance could be invalidated if you travel against advice from the Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office (FCDO). 

FCDO advises against all travel to Sudan because of the ongoing military conflict in Khartoum and other parts of the country.  

There have been several ceasefires, but these have been regularly broken.  

Khartoum International Airport is closed. The only functional civilian airport operating international flights is Port Sudan Airport. 

Monitor travel advice and other media reports for the latest information. 

Find out more about safety and security in Sudan. 

Get help in Sudan 

The British Embassy in Khartoum is closed due to the conflict. There are no British consular staff in Sudan. Our ability to provide consular support is severely limited and we cannot provide in-person support inside Sudan. 

If you’re a British national in Sudan, you can call our 24/7 telephone helpline: +44 1908 516 666. Select option 2 for consular services for British nationals. 

Leaving Sudan 

The UK government is no longer evacuating people from Sudan.  

FCDO cannot offer advice on the safety of travelling to any potential departure point. Consider carefully whether you want to take any of the available options. 

Use your own judgement to move towards a departure point if and when you judge it is safe to do so. 

The UK government’s ability to facilitate onward travel from countries in the region is limited and you’ll be expected to cover the cost of visas, accommodation, insurance and onward travel yourself.   

Any travel options you pursue are taken at your own risk.  

FCDO cannot help non-British dependants of British nationals. 

Travel insurance  

If you choose to travel against FCDO advice, research your destinations and get appropriate travel insurance . Insurance should cover your itinerary, planned activities and expenses in an emergency. 

About FCDO travel advice 

FCDO provides advice about risks of travel to help British nationals make informed decisions. Find out more about FCDO travel advice . 

Follow and contact FCDO travel on Twitter , Facebook and Instagram . You can also sign up to get email notifications when this advice is updated. 

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Khartoum Travel Guide

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Khartoum – Blue Nile meets White Nile

Khartoum – the very name makes most people’s phantasies go wild, since so little is known about the capital of Sudan. Well, there is actually a lot to explore if you take your time and we certainly did. The confluence of the Blue and White Nile is probably the most famous sight in Khartoum. Unfortunately, most visitors simply drive across the bridge and look down, since the closest place to the watch the two rivers merge is officially closed, Mogran Family Park. There used to be a fairy-wheel that provided a superb view, but it has been dismantled years ago, like all the other rides. That would not keep Kelly and me from going there anyway, what we discovered was the most bizarre place.

Confluence of the Nile

To stand at the confluence of the Blue and White Nile is an awesome experience, even though it is basically only two rivers merging, but given the many mystical stories that surround the rivers it is a truly touching experience. Having been at the source of the Blue Nile (Ethiopia) and the While Nile (Uganda) added to the excitement. And no, we did not noticed any difference in colour.

Excited about watching the Blue and While Nile meet

Ghost-like Mogran Family Park

has been closed for two years and the remnants of this former amusement park have come to form the most bizarre backdrop for the confluence of the two Niles. At the entrance two policemen make sure nobody enters, but for 50 SDG we were allowed in,  a young soldier escorted us around enjoying the change of his dull job.

Dismantled rides at Mogran Family park

The rides have been dismantled and their parts have become slowly overgrown by the vegetation, the buildings locked up and deteriorating. Bits from the ghost train are strewn around like dead bodies.

Dismantled rides overgrown by vegetation

Bits of the former ghost-train

A few people hang out there to keep the place from being completely eaten up by vegetation.

Tea-lady at Mogran Park serving the workers keeping this place from becoming a jungle

Mogran Family Park is not the only place on the banks of the Blue Nile that was closed by the government. The greenest, coolest and breeziest places of Khartoum, hard to comprehend. One of those deserted tea-houses we fell immediately in love with. The setting was almost paradise-like: green grass, trees, right on the river, a cool breeze, it had everything that the rest of Khartoum lacks.

Deserted tea-house along the Blue Nile

A caretaker allowed us in and invited us to climb to the roof terrace of the former restaurant. From there we had  an incredible view over the Blue Nile and Tutsi Island. It was heartbreaking to see all these places closed and reminded me of Isfahan, where the government closed all the tea houses along the Zayandeh River.

View from deserted tea-house onto Tuti Island

To be frank, at first sight Khartoum is not the most charming city, but is grows on you if you allow yourself some time. We ended up staying altogether six  days in the capital that travelers usually flee from after a day. Khartoum is spread out, dusty, with sidewalks either occupied by parking cars, piles of sands, street vendors or overgrown with vegetation. So one of my fancies, strolling around  “to check out the place”, what a foolish undertaking. Besides, tourists are expected to move in big fancy cars, so  two women walking round was an inexplicable sight for the locals to begin with.

Khartoum Street Life

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Must-see attractions in Khartoum

National Museum

This museum, the best in Sudan, has some breathtaking exhibits. The ground floor covers the rise and fall of the kingdoms of Kerma, Kush and Meroe. There…

Hamed el-Nil Tomb

Every Friday afternoon you can see an incredible Sufi ritual, where a colourful local troupe of whirling dervishes belonging to the Sufi community stirs…

White Nile Bridge

The confluence of the Blue and White Niles, best seen from this bridge, is a languid high point of the world's longest river. You can actually see the…

Ethnographical Museum

This museum contains a small but fascinating collection of tribal artefacts from across Sudan. Displays are ordered by geographic region and illustrate…

Commonwealth War Cemetery

This WWII cemetery contains numerous headstones (but no actual bodies). The Allies used Khartoum as a base to invade present-day Ethiopia to expel the…

Nuba Wrestlers

In this Khartoum wrestling area, you’ll find traditional wrestlers going through their paces at roughly 4pm on Fridays. The tournament attracts hundreds…

Camel Market

On the far western edge of Khartoum, this market is spectacular, especially on Saturday, but there is no public transport (a taxi will cost at least S£150…

Omdurman Souq

This famous souq – the largest in Sudan – is abuzz with noise, activity and colour, and a couple of hours' exploration is bound to turn up all manner of…

St Matthew's Cathedral

With its various turrets, slender spires and a large rose window, this building resembles a fairy-tale castle. There are services on Sunday.

Coptic Church

Khartoum's Coptic minority uses this church off the main drag along the Nile. It's an elegant building, with two imposing bell towers.

Khalifa's House Museum

The Mahdi's successor lived across the street, and this 1887 museum showcases the history of the Mahdi era.

Al-Kabir Mosque

This architecturally impressive mosque is a major landmark in the centre.

Mahdi's Tomb

This rocket-topped tomb is worth making the effort to see. Respectfully dressed foreigners are generally allowed inside. The original was destroyed on…

Republican Palace Museum

Housed in a converted Anglican church, this is a hall of heroes, of sorts, with mementos such as presidential limos and General Gordon's piano. It's worth…

Update April 12, 2024

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Travel Advisory April 22, 2023

Sudan - level 4: do not travel.

Reissued with updates to the security situation and post departure status.

Do not travel to Sudan due to armed conflict, civil unrest, crime, terrorism, and kidnapping.

On April 22, 2023, the U.S. Embassy in Khartoum suspended its operations, and the Department of State ordered the departure of U.S. direct hire employees and eligible family members from Embassy Khartoum due to the continued threat of armed conflict in Sudan. The U.S. government cannot provide routine or emergency consular services to U.S. citizens in Sudan, due to the current security situation.

Armed conflict is ongoing throughout Sudan and includes heavy fighting between various political and security groups. The situation is violent, volatile, and extremely unpredictable, particularly in the capital city Khartoum. Electrical and communication disruptions, including internet and cell phone service, can occur at any time.  Khartoum International Airport and Sudan’s border with Chad are currently closed.

Country Summary : Armed conflict, crime, such as kidnapping, armed robbery, home invasion, and carjacking occur.

Members of known terrorist groups and individuals sympathetic to these groups in Sudan could attack with little or no warning, targeting foreign and local government facilities, and areas frequented by Westerners.

Violence continues along the border between Chad and Sudan and areas that border South Sudan (including the disputed Abyei area). Armed opposition groups are active in Central Darfur state and parts of Blue Nile and South Kordofan states. Intercommunal clashes can occur throughout the country and can result in the declaration of localized States of Emergency.

Read the  country information page  for additional information about travel to Sudan.

If you decide to travel to Sudan:

• Exercise extreme care in all parts of the country, including Khartoum.
• Visit our website for  Travel to High-Risk Areas .
• Have a personal emergency action plan that does not rely on U.S. government assistance.
• Monitor local media for breaking events and be prepared to adjust your plans.
• Be aware of your surroundings.
• Stay alert in areas frequented by Westerners.
• Review your personal security plan and visit our page on travel to high-risk areas.
• Draft a will and designate appropriate insurance beneficiaries and/or power of attorney.
• Discuss a plan with loved ones regarding care/custody of children, pets, property, belongings, non-liquid assets (collections, artwork, etc.), funeral wishes, etc.
• Share important documents, log-in information, and points of contact with loved ones so that they can manage your affairs if you are unable to return as planned to the United States.  Find a suggested list of such documents here .
• Develop a communication plan with family and/or your employer or host organization so that they can monitor your safety and location as you travel through Sudan. This plan should specify who you would contact first, and how they should share the information.
• Avoid demonstrations and public gatherings. Even events intended to be peaceful can become violent.
• Enroll in the  Smart Traveler Enrollment Program  ( STEP ) to receive Alerts and make it easier to locate you in an emergency.
• Follow the Department of State on  Facebook  and  Twitter .
• Review the  Country Security Report  for Sudan.
• Prepare a contingency plan for emergency situations.  Review the  Traveler’s Checklist .

Embassy Messages

View Alerts and Messages Archive

Quick Facts

6 months beyond date of entry into Sudan

• Yellow fever

Embassies and Consulates

U.s. embassy khartoum.

Kilo 10, Soba Khartoum, Sudan Telephone:  +249-187-0-22000; (Sunday through Thursday, 8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.) Emergency After-Hours Telephone:  +249-18 702 2000 Email:  Our navigator assistant at the following link will guide you to the information you need.

Destination Description

Learn about the U.S. relationship to countries around the world.

Entry, Exit and Visa Requirements

Requirements for Entry:

• World Health Organization (WHO) card with yellow fever vaccination when arriving from a yellow fever infected area

Obtain your visa before traveling. Visit the  Embassy of the Republic of the Sudan  website for the most current visa information. Overseas inquiries should be made at the nearest Sudanese Embassy or consulate.

The Government of the Republic of the Sudan requires U.S. citizens to present a passport with at least six months validity and an entry visa or entry permit upon arrival at any port of entry in Sudan.

U.S. citizens must obtain an entry visa from a Sudanese embassy before arriving in Sudan. There is one exception to this requirement: U.S. citizens possessing a Sudanese national identification document (such as a Sudanese passport, alien registration card, or national identification card).

Previous Travel to Israel: Travelers with Israeli visas or exit/entry stamps are now permitted entry following a change in relations between Sudan and Israel in 2020.

HIV/AIDS Restrictions: Some HIV/AIDS entry restrictions exist for visitors and foreign residents of Sudan. Sudanese law requires a negative HIV test result to obtain a work or residence visa. Please verify this information with the  Embassy of the Republic of the Sudan  before you travel. 

Find information on  dual nationality ,  prevention of international child abduction , and  customs regulations  on our websites.

Safety and Security

Terrorism: Members and individual sympathizers of known terrorist groups and hardline political extremists could attack with little or no warning, targeting foreign and local government facilities and areas frequented by Westerners. Globally, terrorists are increasingly using less sophisticated methods of attack – including knives, firearms, and vehicles – to more effectively target crowds. Frequently, their aim is unprotected or vulnerable targets, such as:  

• High-profile public events (sporting contests, political rallies, demonstrations, holiday events, celebratory gatherings, etc.)  
• Hotels, clubs, and restaurants frequented by tourists  
• Places of worship  
• Schools  
• Parks  
• Shopping malls and markets  
• Public transportation systems (including subways, buses, trains, and scheduled commercial flights)   

For more information, see our  Terrorism  page.

Violence continues along the border between Chad and Sudan and areas near the border with South Sudan (including the disputed Abyei area). Armed opposition groups are active in Central Darfur state.

Landmines and other explosive remnants of war still exist in rural areas; Southern Kordofan and Blue Nile, Darfur, and the Eastern states, including along the Eritrean border, are the most affected. Border closures may occur without notice.

Intercommunal and intracommunal clashes can occur throughout the country and can result in the declaration of localized states of emergency; civilians have been killed and government and security installations have been attacked.

Blue Nile Region (Blue Nile, Sennar, and White Nile states) and Southern Kordofan Region (includes Abyei region, North Kordofan; South Kordofan; West Kordofan): While violence has decreased significantly from previous years, tensions remain high. Banditry and intercommunal violence are common in these regions. Armed actors may transit the shared borders with South Sudan and Ethiopia.

Darfur Region: Flares of deadly intercommunal conflict continue, as does violence perpetrated by bandits and militias. Criminality, looting, and conflict over economic resources (land, gold, livestock) also is common. Tensions within camps for internally displaced people have resulted in fatalities and violence. Extrajudicial mobs and armed communal militia may mobilize quickly. Armed actors may transit Sudan’s shared borders with Chad and Central African Republic.

Eastern Sudan (Kassala, Gedaref, and Red Sea States): Escalating tensions between Ethiopia and Sudan have prompted a sizeable build-up of military forces along the disputed border in Gedaref’s Fashaga region as well as recurring military-to-military engagements, clashes involving Ethiopian militias, and intercommunal reprisals over farmland. Incidents of cross-border criminality to include kidnapping have occurred. Human traffickers and organized crime syndicates are known to operate in the Kassala area (Kassala, Al Qadarif, and Red Sea states) along the Ethiopian and Eritrean borders. Stay on major roads if you are traveling by vehicle due to potential landmines and other explosive remnants of war.

Crime: Crime, such as kidnapping, armed robbery, home invasion, and carjacking, can occur, though such crimes are more frequent outside of Khartoum. In Khartoum, home invasion, pickpocketing, purse snatching, theft from vehicles, and other petty crime occur, and the number of petty crimes has increased over the past year. There is a risk of kidnapping. Expatriates are not generally targeted for crime in Khartoum, but may be caught in a ‘wrong place, wrong time’ situation.

Elsewhere in Sudan, particularly in Darfur, armed robbery, kidnapping, carjacking, and looting is common; victims may be targeted based on perceived wealth or affiliation, and aid workers continue to be affected by such crimes. Banditry is prevalent throughout western Sudan, particularly in the Darfur and Chad–Sudan border regions, where several incidents have resulted in deaths. Sexual assault is widespread in areas of armed conflict.

• Avoid walking or traveling alone, especially after dark and particularly outside of Khartoum.
• Do not display cash and valuable personal property.
• Dress conservatively in clothing which covers the shoulders, upper arms, and legs to below the knee.
• Drive with doors and windows locked.
• Travel with a copy of your U.S. passport and Sudanese visa to prevent the originals from being taken. Keep original documents in a secure location. Use reputable travel firms, knowledgeable guides, and drivers.

Demonstrations: Small gatherings and demonstrations can occur with no warning and may escalate to violence. Protests are a regular occurrence since the 2019 revolution, with the pace increasing following the October 25, 2021 military takeover. Police and other security forces may intervene to disperse demonstrators, including with the use of tear gas and, in some instances, live ammunition, when protests occur near key governmental locations and/or impair freedom of movement. Protests and demonstrations have led to extended disruptions to telecommunications and, in some instances, airport closures, inhibiting U.S. citizens’ abilities to communicate with friends and family or depart the country. Historical anniversaries, calls for justice, and economic grievances, including bread, cooking oil, and fuel shortages, can precipitate demonstrations.

• Avoid areas around protests and demonstrations.  
• Check local media for updates and traffic advisories.  
• Follow the advice of local authorities.
• Maintain several days’ supply of food and water and stay indoors until the demonstration has passed.
• Keep a low profile and observe all curfews.
• Have alternate means of communication in the event of disruptions to telecommunication services.

International Financial Scams:  See the  Department of State  and the  FBI  pages for information.

Victims of Crime: U.S. citizen victims of sexual assault or domestic violence are encouraged to contact the U.S. Embassy for assistance. Report crimes to the local police at 999 and contact the U.S. Embassy at +249 18 702 2000. Dial 777 to contact the police for traffic emergencies, 998 for fire, and 333 for medical emergencies. Emergency services and the telephone network are unreliable. Remember that local authorities are responsible for investigating and prosecuting crime.

See our webpage on  help for U.S. victims of crime overseas .

• Help you find appropriate medical care
• Assist you in reporting a crime to the police
• Contact relatives or friends with your written consent
• Provide general information regarding the victim’s role during the local investigation and following its conclusion 
• Provide a list of local attorneys
• Provide information on victim’s compensation programs in the United States
• Provide an emergency loan for repatriation to the United States and/or limited medical support in cases of destitution
• Help you find accommodation and arrange flights home
• Replace a stolen or lost passport

Domestic Violence: U.S. citizen victims of domestic violence are encouraged to contact the Embassy for assistance. 

Tourism:  Little to no formal tourism industry infrastructure is in place. Emergency response and subsequent appropriate medical treatment is often limited or inadequate. U.S. citizens are encouraged to purchase medical evacuation insurance . 

Local Laws & Special Circumstances

Criminal Penalties:  You are subject to local laws. If you violate local laws, even unknowingly, you may be expelled, arrested, or imprisoned. Convictions for possessing, using, or trafficking in illegal drugs can result in long jail sentences and heavy fines. While the consumption of alcohol is no longer prohibited for non-Muslims, regulations and enforcement remain unclear. You may be detained for questioning by the police if unable to produce an acceptable form of identification. Individuals establishing a business or practicing a profession that requires additional permits or licensing should seek information from the competent local authorities, prior to practicing or operating a business.

Furthermore, some laws are also prosecutable in the United States, regardless of local law. For examples, see our website on  crimes against minors abroad  and the  Department of Justice  website. 

Travel Permits:  A permit, obtainable from the Ministry of Tourism by your hotel or travel agent, is required for travel outside of the greater Khartoum area. A copy of the permit will be sent to the Aliens Department at the Ministry of Interior. A separate travel permit is required for travel to Darfur. The Embassy’s ability to provide consular services outside of Khartoum, including emergency assistance, is severely limited. Carry multiple copies of permits, as travelers without permits may be detained and arrested.

Photography: Do not take photographs of any areas which may be sensitive to the government, including police and military installations, camps for internally displaced persons, and border areas. Photography requires a permit from the External Information Centre in Khartoum (part of the Ministry of Information). Even with a permit, it is illegal to take pictures of military installations, public utilities, infrastructure (e.g., bridges, airports), slum areas, or beggars. Do not take photographs or use equipment with cameras (including cell phone camera and laptops) close to government buildings. You could be fined, have your photographic equipment confiscated without notice, and risk detention and arrest. Do not take photos of Sudanese without their permission.

Arrest Notification:  If you are arrested or detained, ask police or prison officials to notify the U.S. Embassy immediately. See our  webpage  for further information.

The U.S. Embassy will not receive notification of your arrest. Moreover, dual U.S.-Sudanese nationals will be prosecuted as Sudanese citizens, impeding our ability to provide consular services.

Sharia Law/Customs:  Personal status laws govern legal procedures pertaining to family relations, including marriage, divorce, child custody, maintenance (financial support), and inheritance. We strongly advise you seek local legal counsel if you must engage in local legal matters and make certain you are aware of your rights and responsibilities. Some national laws reflect a sharia system of jurisprudence. Non-Muslims are sometimes convicted of offenses based on officials’ interpretation of Islamic law. The government enacted legislation in July 2020 that removed flogging as a punishment for criminal and civil crimes. However, flogging remains a common sentence for hudud, which are punishments mandated under Islamic law for serious offenses. Non-Muslim women are not expected to wear a veil or cover their heads. Both women and men should dress modestly. Shorts are not appropriate. Public displays of affection are discouraged. Pornography is not permitted. Government offices and businesses follow an Islamic workweek (Sunday to Thursday).

Phone Service:  Cellular phones are common, as other telephone service is unreliable and landlines are nearly non-existent. It may be possible to purchase a SIM card locally and use a U.S.-compatible cell phone. Check for compatibility with local cellular networks with your phone carrier or manufacturer before you go. During periods of civil unrest, Sudanese authorities may cut all telecommunications for extended periods of time. Maintain alternate means of communication in such an event.

Currency:  The Sudanese pound (SDG) is the official currency. Sudan operates on a cash-only economy; U.S.-issued credit and debit cards do not work. Carry sufficient funds in U.S. dollars to cover all your expenses for the duration of your stay. Bills must be printed after 2006 and unblemished. Do not carry a large amount of cash because travelers carrying large amounts of U.S. currency have been detained and currency confiscated. Sudan has no international ATMs. Local ATMs draw on local banks only. Western Union operates in Khartoum only. Exchange currency only at reputable banks. Exchanging currency outside of official banking channels is illegal and is punishable by imprisonment and fines.

Faith-Based Travelers: See the following webpages for details:

• Faith-Based Travel Information
• International Religious Freedom Report  – see country reports
• Human Rights Report  – see country reports
• Hajj Fact Sheet for Travelers  
• Best Practices for Volunteering Abroad   

LGBTI Travelers:  Sudanese law does not specifically prohibit homosexuality but criminalizes sodomy, which is punishable if convicted by five years in jail for an initial offense. Sudan’s civilian-led transitional government abolished corporal and capital punishment for conviction of sodomy. LGBTI persons are not considered a protected class under antidiscrimination laws. Anti–LGBTI sentiment remains pervasive in society. LGBTI organizations have alleged being pressured to alter their activities due to threat of harm. There have been no reports of official action to investigate or punish those complicit in LGBTI-related discrimination or abuses.

See   our  LGBTI Travel Information   page and section six of our  Human Rights report  for further details.

Travelers Who Require Accessibility Assistance:  Access to transportation, lodging, and public buildings is limited for people with mobility issues. There are few sidewalks and no curb-cuts, and most buildings lack functioning elevators.

Students:   See our  Students Abroad  page and  FBI travel tips .

Women Travelers:  Early and forced marriage of children continues. While Sudan has criminalized Female Genital Mutilation (FGM), the national prevalence rate of Female Genital Mutilation/Cutting is 88 percent. Spousal abuse is common. Women who file claims of domestic violence are subjected to accusations of spreading false information, harassment, and detention. Police normally do not intervene in domestic disputes. Rape is a serious problem throughout the country, especially in conflict areas. See our travel tips for  Women Travelers .

Consult the  CDC website for Sudan  prior to travel.

Medical facilities in Khartoum are adequate for routine care, but the hospitals are not suitable for more serious medical problems. Outside the capital, few facilities exist, hospitals and clinics are poorly equipped, and ambulance services are unavailable. Medicines are available only intermittently. Emergency medical treatment is provided for 24 hours before payment is required. For all other care, providers expect payment in Sudanese pounds in full before treatment is performed.

For emergency services in Sudan, dial 333.

Ambulance services are: 

• not present throughout the country or are unreliable in most areas except Khartoum.
• not equipped with state-of-the-art medical equipment.
• not staffed with trained paramedics and often have little or no medical equipment.
• Injured or seriously ill travelers may prefer to take a taxi or private vehicle to the nearest major hospital rather than wait for an ambulance.

We do not pay medical bills. Be aware that U.S. Medicare/Medicaid does not apply overseas. Most hospitals and doctors overseas do not accept U.S. health insurance. 

Medical Insurance: Make sure your health insurance plan provides coverage overseas. Most care providers overseas only accept cash payments. See  our webpage  for more information on insurance providers for overseas coverage. Visit the  U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention  for more information on type of insurance you should consider before you travel overseas. 

We strongly recommend supplemental insurance to cover medical evacuation. 

Always carry your prescription medication in original packaging, along with your doctor’s prescription and bring enough medication for the duration of your trip. Check with Sudanese customs to ensure the medication is legal in Sudan. 

Vaccinations: Be up to date on all  vaccinations  recommended by the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention.

The following diseases are prevalent :

• Hepatitis A
• Meningococcal meningitis
• Malaria  is widespread throughout the country. Use the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention recommended mosquito repellents and sleep under insecticide-impregnated mosquito nets. Chemoprophylaxis is recommended for all travelers even for short stays.

Further health information:

• World Health Organization
• U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention  (CDC)  

Air Quality:  Visit  AirNow Department of State  for information on air quality at U.S. Embassies and Consulates. 

The U.S. Embassy maintains a list of doctors and hospitals . We do not endorse or recommend any specific medical provider or clinic. 

Travel and Transportation

Road Conditions and Safety: Road conditions are poor and traffic accidents common. Driving is hazardous due to excessive speeds, erratic driver behavior, pedestrians, animals in the roadways, and vehicles that are overloaded or lack basic safety equipment. Only major highways and some streets in the cities are paved; others are narrow and rutted. While there are functioning traffic signals and streetlights on major thoroughfares in Khartoum, there are virtually none in other parts of the country.

A four-wheel-drive vehicle is strongly recommended due to variance in road conditions on major inter-city highways. South of Khartoum, road conditions deteriorate significantly during the rainy season from June to October and dust storms (“haboobs”) greatly reduce visibility. Travel outside of Khartoum should be undertaken with a minimum of two vehicles to protect against the threat of criminal attacks. Use reliable GPS and carry additional fuel, spare tires, and provisions. Professional roadside assistance service is not available, and gas shortages are common.

Landmines:  Exercise caution in remote areas or off main roads outside of Khartoum due to landmines. Landmines are most common in the Eastern states and Southern Kordofan. Stay on main roads marked as cleared by a competent de-mining authority.

Traffic Laws: An international driving permit or Sudanese license and third-party liability insurance from the government is required. You may use a U.S. driver's license for up to 90 days. You can get a local driving license from the police traffic department. It is illegal to use a cell phone while driving. Comprehensive insurance is recommended because many local drivers carry no insurance.

Accidents:  In the event of an automobile accident, remain inside the vehicle and wait for police. If a hostile mob forms or you feel your safety is in danger, leave the scene, and proceed directly to the nearest police station. Do not stop at the scene of an accident or at intersections where people have gathered, as mobs can develop quickly.

Public Transportation: Avoid travel by public transportation and hire private transport from a reliable source. Your company’s in-country staff, travel agencies, and local hotels may be able to arrange private transport on your behalf. Any form of public transportation is unregulated, unreliable, and generally unsafe. Service is basic and crowded. Schedules are unpublished and change without notice. While there is some public transit to rural communities by irregularly scheduled mini-buses, many areas lack any public transportation.

Buses:  Fatal accidents are routine. Many drivers have little training and are reckless, and the vehicles are often poorly maintained. Most buses and bus stops are privately operated and unmarked.

Taxis:  Taxis are available throughout Khartoum; however, most do not meet U.S. safety standards. Drivers rarely speak English. Have your destination written down in Arabic.

Trains:  There is weekly passenger train service from Khartoum to Wadi Halfa and to Port Sudan. Trains are dilapidated.

See our  Road Safety page  for more information

Aviation Safety Oversight:   As there is no direct commercial air service to the United States by carriers registered in Sudan, the U.S. Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) has not assessed the government of Sudan’s Civil Aviation Authority for compliance with International Civil Aviation Organization (ICAO) aviation safety standards. Further information may be found on the  FAA’s safety assessment page .

Maritime Travel:  Mariners planning travel to Sudan should also check for U.S. maritime advisories and alerts . Information may also be posted to the   U.S. Coast Guard homeport website , and the  NGA broadcast warnings . For Information on piracy and other maritime issues in the region see the U.S. Government’s  Maritime Security Communications with Industry (MSCI) Web Portal .

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After a year of war and hunger in Sudan, aid groups seek new help in forgotten crisis

One year ago, Marwa Ahmed Alrohima Mohammed was pregnant and treating patients at a hospital in the Sudanese capital of Khartoum when her country descended into civil war. 

“It was so close. The bombs and the airplanes were right over our heads,” the 35-year-old physician told USA TODAY in a video interview. Fighting left some dead nearby her home, she said.

After holding out for several weeks, she escaped to the south on a bus with her family, navigating militia checkpoints in a dangerous 250-mile journey to Gedaref, near the Ethiopian border.

Now, a year after she fled some of the first blasts of the civil war, Mohammed works in Gedaraf treating some of the millions of Sudanese like her – people who fled a war they thought would end quickly, seeking help they thought would arrive soon. 

Instead, they have found themselves amid a growing crisis that many aid workers say the world has largely forgotten. 

The civil war has now killed more than 14,000 people, subjected countless people to sexual violence and displaced millions. Yet the U.N. has said its appeal for $2.7 billion in humanitarian aid for nearly 15 million people inside Sudan has been less than 6% funded . And aid deliveries that do arrive are hampered by fighting and other challenges.

Now aid groups are hoping an international donor conference to be held in Paris on Monday will bring new funding and urgency to address a humanitarian crisis that the U.N says has been neglected by the international community amid the wars in Gaza and Ukraine. 

Tom Perriello, the U.S. special envoy to Sudan, told Reuters that the United States will make a “push” of more funding as Washington seeks to spur on international response at the conference, but he didn’t elaborate.

“People are dying because of lack of medicine and lack of food,” said Mohammed’s colleague, health worker Salma Salah, explaining that sometimes it means they can’t help those in need. “You just tell them to be patient, but you know that won’t work for very long.”

Both now work with U.S.-based Medical Teams International in Gedaref, where they see many wounds of war. But it is the cases of hunger that reflect the U.N.’s growing warnings about the threat of a wider famine. Already, 18 million Sudanese face acute food insecurity.

“Women are losing babies. More than 90% of the children under 5 are malnourished,” Mohammed said.

Some of Salah’s relatives – more than two dozen of whom are now packed into one home in Gedaref – keep watching the news for signs of a cease-fire or a new wave of international help so they can go home. So far, that hasn’t come.

“My mom always turns on the TV to see what is going on,” Salah said, “and there is no Sudan on TV.”

Why is there a war in Sudan?

The conflict was sparked by tensions between two top Sudanese generals. 

Army leader Abdel Fattah al-Burhan and Mohamed Hamdan Dagalo, head of the Rapid Support Forces paramilitary group, had jointly ruled since taking power in 2019. But those tensions came to blows last April over plans to combine the two forces.

The conflict spread to other areas across Sudan in a battle that, unlike the country’s many previous conflicts, tore at Khartoum as well as other regions. Momentum has stalled, according to a report by the International Crisis Group on April 11 . But the fighting continues.

In the year since it began, the group said, the conflict has been an “incontrovertible disaster for the entire country.”

Among the more than 14,000 dead are civilians killed in the escalating violence. Reports of conflict-related sexual violence continue. International Criminal Court prosecutors have said there are grounds to believe both sides are committing war crimes , The Associated Press reported.

Health care and banking systems have teetered on collapse. Of the country’s 49 million people, more than 8 million have been displaced, the U.N. said, both within Sudan and into neighboring nations South Sudan, Chad, Central African Republic, Egypt and Ethiopia, straining resources and threatening the stability of the wider region. 

The war has also hobbled domestic agricultural production. Food that is available in markets has shot up in price. Of the 18 million people facing acute food insecurity, nearly 5 million of these are in emergency levels of hunger, according to the World Food Program , which has worked to deliver aid to those who need it in the region. 

But that’s not easy, the Crisis Group said. Most of those suffering acute food insecurity are stuck in areas of active conflict, including millions of residents in Greater Khartoum and Gezira. 

“The two sides generally show callous disregard for civilians’ plight, with the RSF demanding sky-high fees from aid trucks at checkpoints or stealing their cargo, while the army tries to block relief in RSF-held areas, where many camps for the internally displaced and devastated towns have been unable to receive assistance,” the group said in its report.

The Sudan INGO Forum said the country could face losing hundreds of thousands of lives to hunger.

Helena Cardellach, director for Doctors Without Borders in the country, told USA TODAY the organization also faced challenges getting supplies to areas of need. She said the overall situation was growing increasingly dire.

“The situation is even worse now than six months ago,” she said.

Hopes for a new boost of humanitarian help 

Each day at her clinic in Gedaraf, set among a center for displaced people, Mohammed and other staffers with Medical Teams International provide a range of care, including health and nutrition services. She sees nearly 100 patients a day, among the nearly half-million people who have filled this city as they flee the violence. 

Some need medicine for chronic conditions. Others have experienced sexual abuse. Malnutrition is common. And many have no money to flee to safer countries – like one woman she treated, who was caring for two disabled children after their father had been killed. Both were malnourished. “I worry about famine,” she said. 

Diplomatic efforts, including the U.N. Security Council’s call last month for a cease-fire, have not persuaded the two sides to stop the fighting. 

The Monday meeting in Paris will bring together leaders from neighboring countries, regional actors, Western states and U.N. agencies and nonprofit groups working in the area, Reuters has reported. Aid groups hope for a major scaling-up of the humanitarian response.

"The international response has been pitiful. We're at 5% of the needed amount," Perriello recently told Reuters , adding that the U.S. has already committed more than $1 billion in humanitarian relief to the conflict.

"We'll be doing another nine-figure push around this," he said, without elaborating.

The Crisis Group said diplomats need to push harder on the two warring sides to accept a ceasefire. And it said aid donors should consider funneling money through local volunteers in areas where most major aid organizations have left.

“It has been everyday Sudanese who have − often at great personal risk − stepped up to support each other and become a lifeline for millions of Sudanese,” Eatizaz Yousif, Sudan director for the International Rescue Committee, said in a statement.

Salah continues her work with Medical Teams in Gedaref, where she can sometimes hear bombs from distant fighting. 

Earlier this month, several drone attacks on Army sites hit Gedaref, according to news reports, threatening what had been a relatively safe haven. Salah said the group has evacuation plans at the ready.

Salah’s parents are still in shock over a conflict they thought would last only a few months at most. They keep their things ready to return, desperately wanting to go home to Khartoum. 

Salah must tell them each time that it’s still not safe as fighting continues with no end in sight. But they persist.

“Each day my parents pack their bags,” she said. “Every single morning.”

Until the conflict abates, Mohammed keeps up her daily routine. She gets up early, makes tea and climbs on a rickshaw to travel to the clinic. It’s a place where army checkpoints dot the city and residents must be off the streets before a nighttime curfew. 

But Mohammed makes the trip carrying her own pain. Her pregnancy, which finally came after multiple medical procedures in her quest to have a child, was lost amid her flight. 

World donors pledge more than $2 billion in aid for war-stricken Sudan

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French President Emmanuel Macron announced Monday that world donors are pledging more than $2 billion in aid for Sudan, a year into a war that has pushed its population to the brink of famine.

Macron spoke at the end of an international conference in Paris aimed at drumming up support for Sudan’s people. He did not give a detailed timeline or breakdown of the funding.

In a final statement, top diplomatic envoys, U.N. officials and aid agencies gathered at the conference also urged Sudan’s warring parties to stop rights violations and allow access for humanitarian aid. Members of Sudan’s civil society took part in the Paris meeting, but neither the Sudanese army nor its rival paramilitary were represented.

Sudan descended into conflict in April last year when simmering tensions between the military and the paramilitary Rapid Support Forces exploded into open fighting in the capital, Khartoum, and elsewhere across the country.

World & Nation

After a year of war, Sudan is world’s ‘forgotten crisis.’ Aid groups warn of mass death from hunger

Sudan has been torn by war for a year now between the military and the paramilitary Rapid Support Forces. Now a potential hunger catastrophe looms, aid groups say.

April 14, 2024

Macron called it “one of the worst humanitarian crises in the world,’’ that has created a ‘’real risk of famine.’’

The United Nations’ humanitarian campaign needs some $2.7 billion this year to get food, healthcare and other supplies to 24 million people in Sudan — nearly half its population of 51 million. So far, funders have given only $145 million, about 5%, according to the U.N’s humanitarian office, known as OCHA.

After Monday’s conference, Macron said, ‘’We are today at 2 billion euros for Sudan.’’

United Nations Secretary-General António Guterres urged the international community to donate generously and support the U.N. life-saving efforts to help Sudanese people, trapped in the “nightmare of bloodshed.”

More than 14,000 people have been killed and at least 33,000 have been wounded in a yearlong war. Nearly 9 million people have been forced to flee their homes either to safer areas inside Sudan or to neighboring countries, according to the U.N. Hunger, sexual violence against women and girls and continued displacement are rampant and much of the country’s infrastructure — homes, hospitals and schools — has been reduced to rubble.

U.S. announces over $47 million in humanitarian aid for war-torn Sudan

Sudan and two neighboring countries, where at least a million people have fled the nearly year-old conflict, will receive the humanitarian aid.

March 21, 2024

“We cannot let this nightmare slide from view,” Guterres said in a video message to the Paris conference.

“It’s time to support the Sudanese people. It’s time to silence the guns,” he added.

French Foreign Minister Stephane Sejourne said the aim of the conference was to mobilize humanitarian funding to help Sudanese people, who have been victims of both a “terrible war” and “international indifference.”

“It’s a colossal task,” Sejourne said. “It’s a war the Sudanese people did not want, a war that only produces chaos and suffering.”

The European Union’s crisis management commissioner, Janez Lenarcic, said the 27-member bloc wants to ensure that Sudan is not forgotten as wars in Gaza and Ukraine dominate the international news.

“People of Sudan, caught up in this emergency, are almost completely invisible,” Lenarcic said. Sudan has turned into one of the worst humanitarian disasters ever on the African continent, he said, and added: “It is our duty not to look away.”

Why Sudan’s conflict matters to the rest of the world

Fighting in Sudan between forces loyal to two top generals has put that nation at risk of collapse and could have consequences far beyond its borders.

April 21, 2023

President of the International Committee of the Red Cross Mirjana Spoljaric warned that humanitarian action is increasingly politicized in Sudan and humanitarian workers are risking their lives to get vital aid to people. She urged all sides in the war to facilitate a “safe, rapid, and unimpeded passage of humanitarian personnel and goods, into and within Sudan, through all available routes.”

“Securing a military advantage cannot be pursued regardless of the human cost,” Spoljaric said.

The United States and Saudi Arabia initially led efforts to find a negotiated way out of the conflict. But the efforts did not succeed, and since October the fighting has been overshadowed by the Israel-Hamas war in Gaza, which is threatening to expand into a broader regional conflict.

Relief workers, meanwhile, warn that Sudan is hurtling toward an even larger-scale calamity of starvation, with potential mass death in the coming months. Food production and distribution networks have broken down, and aid agencies are unable to reach the worst-afflicted regions.

Sudan conflict poses high stakes for global trade and U.S. credibility

The U.S. has invested enormous political capital in peace for Sudan, which would also benefit the fight against terrorism.

April 25, 2023

The conflict has also been marked by widespread reports of atrocities including killings, displacement and rape, particularly in the area of the capital and the western region of Darfur.

Save the Children warned that about 230,000 children, pregnant women and newborn mothers could die of malnutrition in the coming months.

“Famine is a reality in Sudan,” said Abdallah al-Dardari, a regional director of the U.N. Development Program. He appealed to diplomats gathered in Paris to help facilitate access for humanitarian aid workers and funding for vital aid for millions of people trapped in a conflict that is “rapidly deteriorating due to no respect for human rights and international law.”

The military, headed by Gen. Abdel-Fattah Burhan, and the RSF, commanded by Gen. Mohammed Hamdan Dagalo, have carved up Khartoum and trade indiscriminate fire. In 2021, Burhan and Dagalo were uneasy allies who led a military coup. They toppled an internationally recognized civilian government that was supposed to steer Sudan’s democratic transition.

Surk and Magdy write for the Associated Press. Magdy reported from Cairo.

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Sudan violence: The horrifying statistics behind the brutal conflict - and still the death toll is unknown

As the ticker of horrifying statistics from Sudan steadily updates, there is one measure of brutality that remains as elusive as the loss it quantifies - the death toll.

Africa correspondent @YousraElbagir

Monday 15 April 2024 14:42, UK

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The statistics of Sudan's year of war are staggering.

It is the largest displaced population in the world and the largest population of displaced children in the world.

According to United Nations agencies... • More than 8.6 million people have been forced out of their homes • 25 million are in dire need of humanitarian assistance • 18 million are facing severe hunger, five million of them are at emergency levels • 3.5 million children under the age of five - every seventh child in Sudan - has acute malnutrition

As the ticker of horrifying statistics steadily updates, there is one measure of brutality that remains as elusive as the loss it quantifies - the death toll.

Every estimate is markedly low. The UN cites the Armed Conflict Location & Event Data Project figures of 14,790 reported fatalities since the war between the Sudanese Armed Forces (SAF) and paramilitary Rapid Support Forces (RSF) started on this day last year.

But in a report to the UN Security Council, independent experts stated that 10,000-15,000 were killed in a city-wide massacre the RSF launched on the West Darfur capital of el Geneina alone.

The health facilities tasked with reporting these fatalities are under extreme pressure.

More on Sudan

Sudan could be weeks away from a 'catastrophic hunger crisis'

Lions traumatised by war find sanctuary - but for some there is no bite or fight left

'They are struggling in every way': The orphaned and disabled children forced to flee fighting in Sudan

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According to the World Health Organisation (WHO), about 70% of health facilities in conflict-affected states are non-functional or partially functional. As of December 2023, the WHO verified 60 attacks on health care which killed at least 34 people.

When the army and RSF fight, people are killed

Where the army and RSF fight for control in the capital Khartoum, the food basket al Jazira state, North Darfur, South and West Kordofan, people are killed by armed combat and siege conditions.

In RSF territory, they are killed by ethnic violence, rape, pillaging, starvation and preventable illnesses.

Read more: UK gives extra support to Sudan as situation 'catastrophic' War-torn Sudan's fighting and humanitarian crisis explained

Across the country, diseases like cholera, dysentery and malaria are claiming hundreds of lives.

And across the world, our elderly are suffering from heartbreak and illness.

How do we measure this scale of grief?

All we have are our stories and the memory of those we lost.

Two days into the war, Duaa Mohamed's young cousin was killed by the violence in Khartoum.

"The imam of the mosque had made an announcement that there was an attack on the area and asked people to retreat to the first floor of their homes because there was shelling in the higher areas," Duaa shares as the anniversary of her cousin Omnia's death nears.

Read more world news: Israel 'knows what our second retaliation would be' - Iran ambassador Sydney attacker's parents 'extremely sorry'

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"They were making their way downstairs and Omnia, who was always ahead of the crowd, was moving ahead of her family. As soon as she got to the top of the stairwell, a bomb hit that part of the house."

Duaa recounts the entire neighbourhood showing up to Omnia's burial - risking their lives to honour her and ensure she was laid to rest as bombs fell around them.

'She would have been 10 if she'd lived to today'

"Her name was Omnia Tajeldeen al Sadig Mohamed. Always smiling and super positive, so curious about the world," says Duaa.

"She was nine years old and would have been 10 if she lived today."

For Jumana's grieving family, the death toll is inconceivably low.

"Our whole life we dealt with cover-ups and underreporting and no accurate toll for anything regarding Sudan. My grandmother was buried in the backyard of her new home," she texts me from Saudi Arabia.

"How many loved ones were buried in backyards or left unburied? How many people were kidnapped and died with no family to check up on them?"

'No one knows if they are dead or alive'

Writer Sara Elhassan posts daily online updates and videos about the conflict in Sudan using her Instagram and X account @bsonblast. She is one of the clearest, loudest and most devoted voices to the cause and when she shares, her anguish is measured and collective.

What her followers do not see is the hours spent behind the scenes trying to make contact with family members that are still trapped in some of the worst areas of fighting - all while dedicating 12 hours a day to monitoring general news from across the country.

"A few hours in the morning are spent making the rounds on those we can contact easily, asking if they've heard from the rest," says Sara.

"The rest of the day is spent obsessively checking WhatsApp to see if our messages went through, if there has been any sign of connectivity.

"Two of my cousins in Khartoum have been missing since the beginning of the war. We lost contact with them since May.

"No one knows if they are dead or alive."

'Sudan has effectively died'

Hundreds are still missing across the country - unlawfully detained or permanently disappeared in the fog of war.

For Sudan analyst Kholood Khair there is no 'off switch'. She says this is the case for many Sudanese people juggling their daily lives and helping families caught in the crisis back home including her parents who are based in the UK.

Keep up with all the latest news from the UK and around the world by following Sky News

"There was always a sense that maybe if things improve, we can go back. But now, it is not just a question of security but will there be a country at all to return to?" says Kholood.

"A lot of people are in mourning for Sudan - that Sudan has effectively died - which I don't fully buy into because I think that as long as the people of Sudan believe in a future for their country that country is alive."

Four women from Khartoum whose stories speak to the capital and the country. All of us are navigating a crisis that has impacted millions in deep and unimaginable ways - both subtle and extreme.

In the face of apathy and global neglect, our collective experience is the only data we can keep and share.

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Roundup: Over 90 pct of Sudanese school-age children deprived of formal education due to conflict: UNICEF

Wednesday, 17 Apr 2024

KHARTOUM, April 16 (Xinhua) -- The year-long conflict between the Sudanese Armed Forces (SAF) and the paramilitary Rapid Support Forces (RSF) has resulted in the disruption of formal education for more than 90 percent of the country's 19 million school-age children, according to the latest estimates from the United Nations Children's Fund (UNICEF).

"Sudan now has one of the worst education crises in the world," UNICEF said in its latest report on Sunday. "The ongoing disruption to education will result in a generational crisis for Sudan."

On the one hand, the ongoing armed conflict in Sudan has led to a massive destruction in the education establishment.

According to official statistics of Sudan's Ministry of Higher Education, the war has caused over 100 public and private universities to close, and destroyed a large number of universities and higher institutions.

In a recent press statement, Sudanese Minister of Education Mahmoud Siral-Khatim Al-Houri revealed that 40 percent of the educational institutions in Khartoum State, where the war erupted, have been destroyed and sabotaged.

Observers believed 75 percent of the educational institutions in Sudan have been destroyed.

In addition to infrastructure destruction, the war has killed and displaced the country's teachers and students.

At least 10 percent of the university's teaching staff are now displaced outside Sudan, said Al-Hafiz Khamis Ismail, spokesman of Zalingei University, in Zalingei, the capital city of Central Darfur State.

"The war also had a psychological impact on the students and their families because of the violence and looting they were exposed to," Assistant Professor at the Nile Valley University in Khartoum, Elham Sharif Daoud, told Xinhua.

According to Ahmed Omer Khojali, a journalist in the field of education, the ongoing armed conflict in Sudan has had a disastrous impact on education generally, and would seriously harm the future of an entire generation of students, as the three "fundamental pillars" in education were damaged by the war.

First, a number of educational establishments have been transformed into military barracks or shelters amid the conflict.

Second, "the conditions of teachers has also worsened, as the war has interrupted their salaries and even taken some of their lives," he said, adding that students, another critical element in education, were forced to flee to states neighboring Khartoum, or to seek refuge in other countries.

Despite wide recognition of an imperative resumption of study, experts believe there are a number of obstacles to overcome, and alternative solutions are needed.

"Innovative solutions must be found, including remote education, or moving universities to some neighboring countries," Ismail said.

For Daoud, she urged the Ministry of Education to devise modern means to resume education.

She referred to the experience of the University of Khartoum, which completed its students' courses online and held exams at the safe states by using the state universities as examination centers, calling for promoting such practices.

Moreover, she stressed the need to establish modern information centers in the universities to make online study feasible, and called for solving the problem of network and power disruption.

According to unofficial estimates, there are about 714,000 higher education students, and about 136 public and private universities and higher institutions in the country.

Since the conflict between the SAF and the RSF broke out on April 15, 2023, 14,790 fatalities have been recorded, while the number of people displaced inside and outside of Sudan has reached 8.2 million, a report by United Nations Office for the Coordination of Humanitarian Affairs showed Sunday.

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UK Foreign Office holding secret talks with Sudan’s RSF paramilitary group

Exclusive: Rights groups denounce negotiations with Rapid Support Forces, accused of ethnic cleansing and war crimes

• Inside South Sudan’s worsening refugee crisis – in pictures

Foreign Office officials are holding secret talks with the paramilitary group that has been waging a campaign of ethnic cleansing in Sudan for the past year.

News that the British government and the Rapid Support Forces (RSF) are engaged in clandestine negotiations has prompted warnings that such talks risk legitimising the notorious militia – which continues to commit multiple war crimes – while undermining Britain’s moral credibility in the region.

One human rights group described the UK’s willingness to negotiate with the RSF as “shocking”. In December, the US accused the paramilitary force of committing crimes against humanity as it carries out widespread massacres and rapes of civilians , many from the African Masalit ethnic community.

The revelations come as the war between the RSF and Sudan’s military reaches its first anniversary on Monday.

What is happening in Sudan?

Fighting broke out in Khartoum, Sudan’s capital, on 15 April 2023 as an escalating power struggle between the two main factions of the military regime finally turned deadly. 

On one side are the Sudanese armed forces, who remain broadly loyal to Gen Abdel Fattah al-Burhan, the country’s de facto ruler. Against him are the paramilitaries of the Rapid Support Forces (RSF), a collection of militias who follow the former warlord Gen Mohamed Hamdan Dagalo , known as Hemedti.

Hemedti’s power struggle with Burhan can be traced back to 2019, when the dictatorial president, Omar al-Bashir, was ousted following countrywide protests. Bashir had deployed the Janjaweed, the forerunners of the RSF , to crush a rebellion in Darfur in 2003. Analysts trace many of the roots of the latest conflict back to the appalling violence and human rights abuses – possibly genocide – committed in the region at that time.

The conflict has plunged Sudan into “one of the worst humanitarian nightmares in recent history” , according to UN officials. It has created the world’s worst displacement crisis , scattering more than 8 million people internally and across Sudan’s borders. Nearly 2 million people have fled into neighbouring countries, putting mounting pressure on Chad and South Sudan.

Officials from the UN’s World Food Programme warn that nearly 28 million people across the region face acute food insecurity, including 18 million in Sudan, 7 million in South Sudan, and nearly 3 million in Chad.

Thousands of Sudanese civilians have been killed, while more than 8 million have been forced to flee their homes and 18 million people are suffering crisis levels of food insecurity .

Among the crimes committed by the RSF is a rampage in Darfur that a UN report said left up to 15,000 dead in Geneina, the capital of West Darfur state. The massacre prompted comparisons to the genocidal massacres in the region two decades ago.

Such atrocities, as well as reports of RSF fighters committing extrajudicial killings, looting aid, and the widespread rape of women and children, have profoundly weakened the group’s legitimacy among the Sudanese people.

Yet a freedom of information (FoI) response reveals that senior Foreign, Commonwealth and Development Office (FCDO) officials instigated talks with the RSF. The most recent meeting between the UK and the paramilitary group was last month.

The FoI response stated: “The FCDO has both tried, and been successful in, contacting representatives from the Rapid Support Forces. The last successful contact was on Wednesday 6 March when officials from the FCDO met with representatives from the RSF.”

UK officials added that, so far, it had not met the RSF’s feared leader, Mohamed Hamdan Dagalo , widely known as Hemedti.

The 49-year-old is a former commander of the Janjaweed militias – the RSF’s forerunner, which was accused of genocidal violence in Darfur in 2003 – and more recently has allied himself with Russia and its Wagner mercenaries.

In January, Hemedti launched a diplomatic tour of African countries in what observers said was an attempt to portray himself as a viable leader. He visited Djibouti, Ethiopia, Kenya, Rwanda, Uganda, Ghana and South Africa weeks after the head of Sudan’s army, Abdel Fattah al-Burhan, had made a similar tour as both generals tried to rally regional players to their side of the conflict.

Dr Sharath Srinivasan, co-director of the Centre of Governance and Human Rights at Cambridge University, said that although he understood the temptation to talk to the RSF, it was an approach that had only fuelled violence in Sudan.

“Talking to the guys with the guns has been part of the perpetuation of violence and authoritarianism in Sudan for the last two, three decades,” he said. “Pragmatism has got us nowhere.”

Srinivasan, an expert on the failures of peacemaking in Sudan, added: “On top of that, when [the RSF are] committing untold levels of targeted violence against ethnic groups, and women and children, at a scale that is absolutely horrific and was, even 20 years ago, you’re putting a lot of moral credibility and decency on the line.”

Maddy Crowther, co-director of the human rights organisation Waging Peace , said: “I’m shocked. It feels like a terrible move. For the Sudanese, it will be experienced as a real slap in the face.”

She said the global Sudanese diaspora would greet news that the UK was secretly talking to the RSF as a “complete abuse of trust that people have placed in the UK and other powers to negotiate or advocate on their behalf”.

Crowther said: “There’ll be absolute shock, a real feeling of being completely let down by the UK government.”

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She added that history proved talking to the RSF had yielded few positives. Before the most recent fighting broke out, the west had been attempting to coax the group towards embracing democracy.

“These [UK] talks also assume that the RSF are good-faith actors,” Crowther said. “Chatting to the RSF has never resulted in the outcomes that the UK says it wants to achieve in Sudan. I have no sense of why that would change at the moment.”

However, the FCDO said the talks were an attempt to increase access to humanitarian aid and end the fighting against the Sudanese Armed Forces (SAF), which are also accused of war crimes .

A Foreign Office spokesperson said: “The UK continues to pursue all diplomatic avenues to end the violence – to prevent further atrocities from occurring, to press both parties into a permanent ceasefire, to allow unrestricted humanitarian access, to protect civilians, and to commit to a sustained and meaningful peace process.

“The SAF and RSF have dragged Sudan into an unjustified war, with an utter disregard for the Sudanese people. We will do all we can to ensure that they are both held accountable.”

It was an approach that had merit, according to Ahmed Soliman, a senior research fellow on Chatham House’s Africa programme .

“How is aid going to get into western Sudan unless you engage with the Rapid Support Forces? They control 95% of Darfur ,” he said.

“This is the dirty reality of the war. It shouldn’t negate engaging with civilians, but it has to be part of trying to ensure that there is a solution, both to ending the war in the near term, and then providing assistance for civilians.”

However, the west’s attempts at peacemaking have been under scrutiny since the war began, after diplomats helped create a power-sharing deal in 2019 between Hemedti and Burhan that culminated in conflict and chaos.

Srinivasan said: “The problem in Sudan is that we’ve talked to them [Hemedti and Burhan] before and they asked to share power, something that re-situated them in the centre of government.

“So the danger is that in the name of ending the violence, you talk to them, legitimate them and bring them back into a position of power.”

Fresh attempts at a peace deal are due to begin in Jeddah on Thursday. The Saudi city hosted several rounds of talks last year, before the army withdrew from negotiations , alleging that the RSF had violated the ceasefire.

• Global development
• The Observer
• Conflict and arms
• Middle East and north Africa

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