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Bosnia & Herzegovina Travel Guide

Last Updated: August 17, 2023

Often overlooked because the country’s name is still synonymous with the Yugoslavian War of the 1990s, Bosnia & Herzegovina deserves your attention. It’s one of the most underrated destinations in Europe .

Not a lot of people backpack or travel through the country but it is rich in history, culture, and natural beauty.

Three major religions (Islam, Roman Catholic, and Serbian Orthodox) all come together in this small area to form a vibrant blend of cultures. You’ll hear the Muslim call to prayer over the minarets one minute, and church bells ringing from a nearby church the next.

Watch skilled divers jump from the iconic bridge in Mostar, enjoy some hookah at one of Sarajevo’s sidewalk cafes, take a dip in the turquoise pools below the cascading Kravica Falls, or raft down the Tara Canyon, the deepest canyon in Europe.

The country (especially the capital) has become more popular in recent years thanks to increasing tourism in the region and cheaper prices but you can still catch it before the big crowds come!

This travel guide to Bosnia & Herzegovina will help you plan your trip, save money, and make the most of your time in this off-the-beaten-path destination!

Table of Contents

• Things to See and Do
• Typical Costs
• Suggested Budget
• Money-Saving Tips
• Where to Stay
• How to Get Around
• How to Stay Safe
• Best Places to Book Your Trip
• Related Blogs on Bosnia & Herzegovina

Top 5 Things to See and Do in Bosnia & Herzegovina

1. See Sarajevo

Bosnia’s capital has a distinct “east meets west” vibe. Perched alongside the Miljacka River and surrounded by mountains, the city is both scenic and historic. It is well-known for its cultural diversity and is sometimes referred to as the Jerusalem of Europe; within the city you can sometimes find a mosque, a catholic church, and a synagogue all within a few blocks. Wander the colorful Bascarsija Square for excellent people-watching, and while you’re there visit the iconic Sebilj Fountain. This Ottoman-style wooden fountain was originally built in 1753 and relocated in 1891. Local legend claims that if you drink from the fountain, you will always return to Sarajevo. Enjoy some hookah, take the cable car to the top of Mount Trebevic for incredible views, and visit the Bašcaršija historic market for some snacks and more people-watching.

2. Check out Mostar

Mostar is a medieval city best known for its 16th-century bridge, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, straddling the Neretva river. The bridge is constructed in the Ottoman style, and on warm days you will often spot locals jumping off into the river. Mostar’s name comes from the word mostari , which translates to bridge keeper (the original bridge was crucial to an important trade route). Strolling through Mostar is like traveling back in time, with its picturesque cobblestone streets and incredible architecture. Explore this historic town and see the ancient Ottoman homes and panoramic views from the local mosque. It’s one of the best cities in the country.

3. Visit the Pliva Lakes

The Pliva Lakes are two emerald lakes surrounded by wooded mountains, just outside Jajce. The area is home to the famous Pliva watermills, unique wooden watermills that were traditionally used to grind wheat. With rivers, waterfalls, and easy bike paths, outdoor lovers flock here to swim, paddle, bike, and explore. Surrounded by amenities like picnic tables, fire pits, kayak rentals, cafes, and playgrounds, the lakes are an ideal place to enjoy a day surrounded by nature. The lakes are formed from the widening Pliva River, which joins the Vrbas River and empties over the 22-meter (72-foot) Pliva Waterfall. For something unique, plan your visit to the annual waterfall jumping competition held here each August.

4. Marvel at the Kravica Waterfall

These marvelous cascades drop 25 meters (82 feet) into a bright emerald pool. During the springtime, the forests surrounding the pool and waterfall blossom into lush greenery, giving the area an oasis-like appearance. You can spend the day splashing in the swimming hole and swinging from the rope swing. Afterward, there’s a little café next to the water where you can grab a snack or a cold beer. Admission is 20 BAM, and swimming is allowed. To see the falls as part of a day trip from Mostar or Dubrovnik costs around 70 BAM.

5. Explore Trebinje

Other things to see and do in bosnia & herzegovina, 1. ostrožac fortress.

This Gothic castle in the Una Valley is one of Bosnia’s most photogenic landmarks thanks to its brick torrents and stone wall running along the valley’s edge. Ostrožac has plenty to explore within its grounds, including a sculpture garden, ramparts, towers, and a manor house dating back to 1286. You can only visit the castle during the summer. Admission is 4 BAM.

2. Walk the Tunnel of Hope

Surrounded by Bosnian-Serb forces, Sarajevo had just one link with the outside world from 1992–1995: an 800-meter long (2,624-feet), 1-meter (3-feet) wide, 1.6-meter (5-feet) high tunnel connecting two houses on opposite sides of the airport runway. Eventually, the tunnel was equipped with rails to transport food and supplies. You can walk through part of the tunnel from the house at the western entrance while learning about the story of the siege through informational displays and videos. It’s an incredibly moving experience. The tunnel is open 9am-5pm daily and admission is 10 BAM.

3. Visit the National Museum of Bosnia & Herzegovina

The National Museum of Bosnia & Herzegovina in Sarajevo houses the Sarajevo Haggadah (a Jewish text) illuminated manuscript, which contains the illustrated text of the Passover Haggadah that goes with the Passover Seder. It’s one of the oldest Haggadah in the world, dating from 1350 and originating in Barcelona. In addition to Greek pottery and Roman mosaics, this museum is also home to a collection of stecci (medieval tombstones found scattered around the country). They started appearing in the 12th century for various Christian churches like the Bosnian Church, and most of them are inscribed with the extinct Bosnian Cyrillic alphabet. The entrance to the museum is 8 BAM.

4. See the Mehmed Pasha Sokolovic Bridge

Mehmed Pasha Sokolovic Bridge was built in Višegrad in 1571 and was designed by Mimar Sinan, the famous chief architect for the Ottoman Empire. He was the master builder behind both the Sehzade Mosque and the Süleymaniye Mosque in Istanbul, and this 11-arch bridge is the only confirmed work he completed in Bosnia & Herzegovina. It stretches 179 meters (587 feet) across the Drina River, and although it’s now closed to traffic, you can still appreciate its perfectly symmetrical beauty from the land.

5. See the watermills of Jajce

Jajce is known as the “city of falling water” thanks to its giant waterfall that connects the rivers Pliva and Vrbas. During the days of the Austro-Hungarian Empire (1867-1918), the small wooden huts stood on stilts over the gushing water used to ground local farmers’ wheat into flour. You can’t go inside, but you can see the huts up close as you explore.

6. Take a tour of Tito’s Bunker

On the bank of the river Neretva, just outside of Konjic and hidden behind a seemingly normal house, the once-forgotten bunker was built under the command of the Yugoslav revolutionary Josip Tito. It was kept secret for many years — even the construction workers were blindfolded until they arrived on site. The bunker cost billions of dollars to build and is now home to a contemporary art biennial called D-0 ARK Underground. You can only visit as a part of a guided tour with Visit Konjic, which costs 22 BAM.

7. See the Bosnian Pyramids

Located near Visoko, the Bosnian Pyramids are a set of four pyramids dating back 12,000 years ago that have perfect cardinal alignment, some reaching heights of 220 meters (721 feet). While most of the scientific community has debunked the theory that an ancient civilization built these structures, it’s a pretty amazing coincidence that they’re so aligned with the north. There are no official tours, so you’re free to explore on your own.

8. Visit Galerija 11/07/95

One of the most tragic events of the Yugoslavian War was the Srebrenica massacre, the largest genocide since World War II carried out by Bosnian Serb forces. With 8,372 victims, the gallery stands as a memorial to those that lost their life while also sharing survivor stories. It’s a powerful exhibition made up of photography, video footage, and audio testimonies. Admission is 12 BAM. An audio guide costs 3 BAM and a tour is 4 BAM.

9. Go whitewater rafting

Whitewater rafting on the Tara River Canyon, the deepest canyon in Europe, is one of the most exciting things to do in the country as you tackle rapids and fast-flowing water. Other than navigating 25 kilometers (15 miles) of white water, your guide will take you to waterfalls, springs, and swimming holes. I recommend Rafting Center Drina Tara. Their full-day tour costs 140 BAM and ends with a delicious traditional dinner of homemade goat pies, soup, grilled lamb, and drinks.

Bosnia & Herzegovina Travel Costs

Accommodation – Hostel dorms start at around 19 BAM per night for an 8-10-bed dorm while a bed in a 4-6 person dorm costs closer to 28 BAM. For a private room, expect to pay at least 45-63 BAM per night for a twin.

Budget hotels in bigger cities (like Mostar and Sarajevo) cost around 63 BAM per night for a double or twin. In the more rural areas, you’ll find rooms for as low as 35 BAM.

Airbnb is another affordable option, with private rooms starting around 30 BAM per night while a full home or apartment costs at least 40 BAM (though prices average double that or more).

For anyone traveling with a tent, wild camping on public land is legal in Bosnia & Herzegovina. Additionally, there are campsites available throughout the country. Tent plots cost about 10.50 BAM per person.

Food – Traditional food in Bosnia & Herzegovina is very cheap and filling (and meat-heavy). Beef and lamb are popular staples, and influences from the Middle East and the Mediterranean are common. Sarma (meat and rice in pickled cabbage leaves), cevapi (a pita filled with cream and sausage), and burek (a flaky pastry with meat, cheese, and spinach) are some of the popular traditional choices. Common ingredients include potatoes, tomatoes, onions, garlic, cabbage, and plums.

You can get plates of cevapi or burek for about 7 BAM. A meal at a mid-range restaurant costs about 15 BAM and you can expect to pay about 3 BAM for a beer. Dinner at a fancy restaurant (including Western restaurants) costs about 35 BAM for an appetizer, main, and dessert.

For comparison, fast food like McDonald’s is about 9 BAM for a combo meal.

If you are planning to cook your own food, a week’s worth of groceries costs around 45-65 BAM. This gets you basic staples like rice, seasonal produce, and some meat.

Backpacking Bosnia & Herzegovina Suggested Budgets

If you are backpacking in Bosnia & Herzegovina, my suggested budget is 85 BAM per day. This assumes you’re staying in a hostel dorm, cooking your meals, sticking to mostly free activities (like free walking tours and hiking), and using public transportation to get around.

A mid-range budget of about 160 BAM covers staying in an Airbnb, eating out for all your meals at cheap local places, enjoying a few drinks, taking the occasional taxi, and doing more paid activities like museum visits or rafting.

On a “luxury” budget of 275 BAM per day or more, you will stay in a hotel, eat out for all your meals, enjoy lots of drinks, take more taxis or rent a car, and do all the tours you desire. This is just the ground floor for luxury though. The sky is the limit!

You can use the chart below to get some idea of how much you need to budget daily, depending on your travel style. Keep in mind these are daily averages — some days you’ll spend more, some days you’ll spend less (you might spend less every day). We just want to give you a general idea of how to make your budget. Prices are in BAM.

Bosnia & Herzegovina Travel Guide: Money-Saving Tips

Bosnia & Herzegovina, like most of the region, is very budget-friendly. You’ll be able to eat, drink, and stay in comfortable accommodations without breaking the bank too much. However, I always love saving money when I can so here are some tips to help you save money when you visit:

• Do a free walking tour – Both Sarajevo and Mostar have free walking tours available. They’re a great way to get familiar with the city and the culture. Just be sure to tip your guide at the end!
• Wild camp – If you really want to save money in Bosnia & Herzegovina, bring your tent. You can pitch your tent on public land throughout Bosnia & Herzegovina.
• Cook your own meals – Many hostels here include kitchen facilities, so if you want to save money, cook your own meals. It’s not glamorous but it’s cheap!
• Stay with a local – Staying with a local via Couchsurfing is a great way to not only save money but to meet a knowledgeable local. Just make sure to send your requests early as there are not a ton of hosts here.
• Walk everywhere – All of the major cities in Bosnia & Herzegovina are walkable, so skip the public transportation if you want to save a few extra dollars.
• Enjoy the free spaces – There are plenty of free parks as well as many free hiking trails around the country. Save your budget and enjoy the outdoors!
• Drink the tap water – Tap water within the cities is safe to drink, but not in the rural areas. Pick up a LifeStraw (a water bottle with a purifier) so you can cut down on your use of plastic bottles while saving money in the process.

Where to Stay in Bosnia & Herzegovina

Like many other countries in this part of Europe, Bosnia & Herzegovina only has hostel accommodation in the cities. In the smaller less popular areas, you will find B&B style accommodation or campsites. Here are some of my favorite places to stay in Bosnia & Herzegovina:

• Hostel Kucha (Sarajevo)
• Balkan Han Hostel (Sarajevo)
• Hostel Franz Ferdinand (Sarajevo)
• Villa Cardak (Mostar)
• Rooms Goa Mostar (Mostar)
• The Red Door Hostel Trebinje (Trebinje)

How to Get Around Bosnia & Herzegovina

Public transportation – Most towns in Bosnia & Herzegovina are walkable. While public transportation prices vary by city, you can expect to pay around 2 BAM for a one-way ticket on buses, trams, or trolleybuses.

Taxi – If you need to take a taxi, prices start at about 3 BAM and cost about 1.60 BAM for every additional kilometer. While affordable, they do add up so skip them if you can.

Bus – There is an extensive network of long-distance intercity and international buses. Between towns, it’s normally easy enough to wave down any bus. Reservations are sometimes necessary for overnight routes or at peak holiday times but not during the day. The biggest companies include:

• Centrotrans

A bus from Sarajevo to Mostar takes 2.5 hours and costs around 11 BAM, while Sarajevo to Trebinje takes nearly 10 hours and is about 40 BAM. Mostar to Jajce is a 4.5-hour journey and costs about 27 BAM. Try to book a day in advance when possible as seats do fill up quickly in the summer season.

It is worth noting that if you buy a round trip with the same company, you can save yourself up to 60% compared to buying two single tickets. Also, if you need to put luggage in the hold, companies will often charge you an additional 2-4 BAM. (It’s common in this region to charge for the luggage hold.)

Train – Trains do operate in Bosnia & Herzegovina, however, they are outdated and extremely slow. I do not recommend using them. Take the bus instead.

Flying – No budget airlines offer domestic flights within Bosnia & Herzegovina.

Car rental – Car rentals can be found for around 40 BAM per day for a multi-day rental. Renters must be at least 21 years old and have an International Driving Permit (IDP). For the best car rental prices, use Discover Cars .

When to Go to Bosnia & Herzegovina

In general, May through to October is the best time to visit Bosnia & Herzegovina as these are the warmest months. The temperature hovers around 31°C (87°F) and rarely drops below 17°C (62°F).

Even in the summer months, Bosnia & Herzegovina doesn’t get a ton of tourism traffic. A lot of people will take a day trip to Mostar from Croatia, but you don’t have to worry too much about overcrowding in the rest of the country.

Unlike other Mediterranean countries, Bosnia & Herzegovina doesn’t have a whole lot of coastal areas to enjoy. If you’re here mostly for hiking or sightseeing, the cooler spring/fall temperatures might suit you better.

Winters here can be harsh and they often last from November to March. Temperatures often drop below freezing, and snowfall is common. I’d skip a winter visit.

How to Stay Safe in Bosnia & Herzegovina

In Bosnia & Herzegovina, violent crime against tourists is rare. However, scams and pick-pocketing are common, usually on public transport and in the cities and especially around high-traffic areas in Sarajevo. Always keep an eye on your stuff and only take the cash you need for the day. You can read about common travel scams to avoid here.

If you want to go hiking, it’s essential you stick to marked trails only. Landmines can still be found here from the war so always stick to the trail.

Solo female travelers should generally feel safe here, however, the standard precautions apply (never leave your drink unattended at the bar, never walk home alone intoxicated, etc.).

If you experience an emergency, dial 122 for assistance.

The most important piece of advice I can offer is to purchase good travel insurance. Travel insurance will protect you against illness, injury, theft, and cancellations. It’s comprehensive protection in case anything goes wrong. I never go on a trip without it as I’ve had to use it many times in the past. You can use the widget below to find the policy right for you:

Bosnia & Herzegovina Travel Guide: The Best Booking Resources

These are my favorite companies to use when I travel. They consistently have the best deals, offer world-class customer service and great value, and overall, are better than their competitors. They are the companies I use the most and are always the starting point in my search for travel deals.

• Skyscanner – Skyscanner is my favorite flight search engine. They search small websites and budget airlines that larger search sites tend to miss. They are hands down the number one place to start.
• Hostelworld – This is the best hostel accommodation site out there with the largest inventory, best search interface, and widest availability.
• Booking.com – The best all around booking site that constantly provides the cheapest and lowest rates. They have the widest selection of budget accommodation. In all my tests, they’ve always had the cheapest rates out of all the booking websites.
• HostelPass – This new card gives you up to 20% off hostels throughout Europe. It’s a great way to save money. They’re constantly adding new hostels too. I’ve always wanted something like this and glad it finallt exists.
• Get Your Guide – Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace for tours and excursions. They have tons of tour options available in cities all around the world, including everything from cooking classes, walking tours, street art lessons, and more!
• The Man in Seat 61 – This website is the ultimate guide to train travel anywhere in the world. They have the most comprehensive information on routes, times, prices, and train conditions. If you are planning a long train journey or some epic train trip, consult this site.
• Rome2Rio – This website allows you to see how to get from point A to point B the best and cheapest way possible. It will give you all the bus, train, plane, or boat routes that can get you there as well as how much they cost.
• FlixBus – Flixbus has routes between 20 European countries with prices starting as low 5 EUR! Their buses include WiFi, electrical outlets, a free checked bag.
• SafetyWing – Safety Wing offers convenient and affordable plans tailored to digital nomads and long-term travelers. They have cheap monthly plans, great customer service, and an easy-to-use claims process that makes it perfect for those on the road.
• LifeStraw – My go-to company for reusable water bottles with built-in filters so you can ensure your drinking water is always clean and safe.
• Unbound Merino – They make lightweight, durable, easy-to-clean travel clothing.
• Top Travel Credit Cards – Points are the best way to cut down travel expenses. Here’s my favorite point earning credit cards so you can get free travel!

Bosnia & Herzegovina Travel Guide: Related Articles

Want more info? Check out all the articles I’ve written on backpacking/traveling Europe and continue planning your trip:

The 6 Best Hotels in Copenhagen

The 6 Best Hotels in Florence

The 7 Best Hotels in Madrid

The 6 Best Hotels in Vienna

The Best Walking Tours in Barcelona

How to Be a Digital Nomad in Europe

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• Where To Stay
• Transportation
• Booking Resources
• Related Blogs

Backpacking Bosnia: the ultimate travel guide

This post is a travel guide about backpacking Bosnia. It includes all the practical things you need to know about travel in Bosnia.

Why Backpacking Bosnia?

The first time I visited Bosnia was in 2005 as a volunteer. It was a project from a dutch NGO called the Bouworde and we were rebuilding homes of the elderly that were damaged during the war. 

For me, Bosnia was love at first sight with its friendly people, green hills and small villages. Since then I have returned several times. Backpacking Bosnia was always a great experience and the country has lots to offer. 

You might have heard about Sarajevo and Mostar. These picturesque places are getting more popular every year for good reasons. However, there is much more to see and do in Bosnia. In general, it is still an off the beaten path destination with a lot of places that are waiting to be discovered.

Therefore backpacking Bosnia is very rewarding. The nature and mountains are spectacular with plenty of outdoor activities. The beautiful blue rivers such as the Una and the Neretva are perfect for rafting. Furthermore, the mountains offer many hiking trails through forests where wolves and bears still roam around.

As a bonus Bosnia is still one of the cheapest destinations in Europe. You will find that prices for accommodation, transport and food are low. You pay little, but get lots in return when Backpacking Bosnia. 

Visas for Backpacking Bosnia 

Bosnia has a long list of countries that do not need a visa. They can stay in Bosnia for 90 days in total (within 180 days). The list of visa exempt countries include the USA, Canada, China, Russia, Australia, Japan, the European Union, most of Eastern Europe and most of South America. 

Others do need to get a visa at a Bosnian embassy or they can enter Bosnia for 15 days with a multiple entry Schengen visa (in this case you must enter Bosnia from a Schengen country). 

How to travel to Bosnia 

Travel to bosnia by plane.

Bosnia has several international airports served by budget airlines. Sarajevo (Wizz Air: Budapest), Tuzla (Wizz Air: several destinations), Mostar (Eurowings: germany) and Banja Luka (Ryan Air: several destinations). 

Tuzla might be the cheapest airport to fly into Bosnia. However, the airport is quite far from the city. Depending on the time you arrive you can take the local bus (a 5 minute walk from the airport to the main road) or a taxi. The latter might be more than the cost of your flight ticket.  

Travel to Bosnia overland

The first time I went to Bosnia I travelled overland from Amsterdam. First by train to Munich, then the night train to Zagreb and from Zagreb by bus to Banja Luka. This was still a time when taking the train was cheaper than flying.

This is of course no longer the case. However, flying into one of the neighbouring countries might sometimes be considerably cheaper than flying directly into Bosnia.

Bosnia is neighbours with Croatia, Serbia and Montenegro and there are good bus connections between these countries and cities in Bosnia. 

Places to visit in Bosnia

There are a lot of places to visit in Bosnia. For a good introduction to the country I can recommend my one week Bosnia itinerary .

Let me start with Tuzla. A few years ago Tuzla opened up its former military airport for budget airlines. Since Wizz Air is now flying directly from Eindhoven to Tuzla this was the start of several of my trips to Bosnia.

Tuzla itself might not be on the tourist radar, but is an interesting destination as one of the most multicultural cities of Bosnia. It used to be an important center of industry as well, but is now facing difficult times. 

Unemployment is high in Tuzla as many industrial factories and firms are closing down. It was in Tuzla that a series of protests and riots started against the government that soon spread throughout Bosnia in 2014.

I stayed at an Airbnb from a welcoming family that had lived in Tuzla their whole life. They explained how the economic situation was getting worse. The mother used to work in Tuzla’s only hotel but has now quit her job. She didn’t receive her salary for months, something that had never happened before, not even during the war.

When you are in Tuzla you can feel some of the decay. You wouldn’t say for example that this is the third biggest city in the country. However, its old town is scenic with the pastel coloured buildings. Tuzla is also home to Europe’s only salt lake. One day is enough to visit both.

Transport: From Tuzla there are frequent buses to Olovo (2 hours) and Sarajevo (3 hours)

On the way from Tuzla to Sarajevo you will find the small town of Olovo that sees few foreign visitors. This is a truly off the beaten path destination and there is in fact not much to do in the town itself. However, Olovo is surrounded by stunning mountains that makes it a great base for some trekking in the surrounding hills.

Olovo is in the Krivaja river valley and at the confluence of two other rivers. There are several thermal springs in the area where the waters are believed to have healing powers. The Aquaterm spa in the centre of Olovo is believed to cure rheumatism and neurological problems among others. The amazing nature and landscapes remain the main draw of Olovo though.

Some of the mountain paths are part of the via dinarica, a long distance hiking trail that is being developed to increase ecotourism in the region. It crosses the Dinaric Alps through several countries in the Balkans. National Geographic rated the via dinarica as one of the best destinations in 2017.

I really enjoyed the small hikes we did by simply following the paths up the hill where we were awarded with beautiful views on the town below. Olovo is a safe area to walk around, but it is important you stay on the paths. Sadly, mines are still a problem if you venture deep into the forests around Olovo.

Transport: from Olovo’s bus station there are several buses to Sarajevo (1 – 2 hours)

It is easy to love Sarajevo with its charming old town and surrounding hills. It’s an incredibly diverse city full of history.

The bascarsija is a journey back in the past when Bosnia was part of the Ottoman empire while the elegant Austrian-Hungarian buildings speak yet of a different time. Then there are the socialist communal flat apartments at the outskirts of the city that are a stark contrast with the hilly suburbs where it feels more like a traditional Bosnian village.

Sarajevo alone could occupy you for an entire week with its interesting museums, delicious restaurants and cosy tearooms. It is also the gateway to Sarajevo’s mountains where you can go hiking in summer or skiing in winter. Former Olympic resort towns like Jahorina and Bjelasnica are a center of winter sports. In summer you can hike to the traditional village of Lukomir.  

Read more in my post about the best things to do in Sarajevo .

Transport : there are several buses to the main cities in Bosnia like Tuzla (3 hours), Konjic (1 hour), Mostar (3 hours), Jajce (4 hours) and Bihac (6-7 hours).

Konjic is midway between Sarajevo and Mostar. Even though it is a very small city, it is worth a visit. It’s beauty is defined by the deep blue Neretva river that runs through the scenic historic center. The Old stone bridge in Konjic is one of the best preserved Ottoman bridges in Bosnia. 

It was here, right next to the river, but hidden from view, that Titov built a bunker deep under the ground. The bunker was meant to keep him, his family and a considerable amount of other people high up in the Yugoslavian Parliament alive for two years after a nuclear attack. It was never used and is now open for visitors through Visit Konjic .

The bunker also hosts a modern art gallery at the moment. I thought it was an interesting visit showing the remnants of a past in which nuclear attacks seemed a real possibility in some parts of the world.

Besides visiting the old town and the bunker, one can also go rafting or if you have your own transport visit Boracko lake high up in the mountains. 

Transport : there are several buses per day to Sarajevo (1 hour) or Mostar (2 hours)

Any visit to Bosnia is not complete without visiting Mostar. One of the most picturesque places in Bosnia Herzegovina. The charming historic town with the view on the old bridge over the Neretva river took my breath away.

With the excellent restoration work it is easy to forget Mostar’s gruelling past. It was, however, the most heavily bombed city during the war. Most historic buildings were destroyed including the old bridge connecting the Bosnian part of town with the Croatian part of town.

Now it feels like nothing has changed since the Ottoman empire ruled the area. It’s very scenic with the cobbled stoned streets and the minarets in the background. However, this is one of the most touristic places in Bosnia. I was here at the end of September when the amount of tourists was less, but I think it must be really crowded in summer.

Mostar is also the gateway to some other famous sights in Bosnia such as the Kravice waterfalls , the Blagaj monastery and Pocitelj (another charming town). 

Transport: There are frequent buses to Sarajevo (3 hours)

Travnik 

Travnik is a historic town in the center of Bosnia Herzegovina. It’s main sights are an impressive fortress and some colorful Ottoman buildings. It makes for a pleasant day trip from Sarajevo or a stop on the way from Sarajevo to Jajce.

Transport : there are several buses per day to Sarajevo (2 hours), Jajce (2 hours) or Mostar (4 hours).  

Jajce is famous for its scenic location and its waterfall that is right in the center of the city. Above the waterfall lies the charming old town with its ancient citadel. Other nearby attractions include picturesque Pliva lake and some traditional wooden water mills.

Transport : there are several buses per day to Sarajevo (4 hours), Travnik (2 hours) or Bihac (3 hours).  

Bihac & Una National Park

One of the most beautiful areas of Bosnia is without doubt the nature around the Una river. The story goes that the Una river got its name from a Roman warrior that thought the river was so beautiful that it was the one and only (Una). I can personally say that the Una is indeed one of the most spectacular rivers in Bosnia with its deep turquoise blue and emerald green colors.

Bihac is a pleasant city that forms the gateway to Una National Park with its network of river streams, pools and waterfalls that are surrounded by lush forests with dense vegetation and limestone cliffs. The nature is pristine and wildlife includes rare animals such as lynx, bears and wolves.  

Una National Park is the perfect place for outdoor activities like rafting, kayaking, swimming, mountain biking and hiking. In addition, the park also has some cultural and historical heritage with ancient citadels, monasteries and mosques. 

It’s Bosnia at its best and because it is somewhat remote it receives a small number of visitors. If you are looking for a peaceful and quiet spot full of nature that is off the beaten path, Una National Park is the place to go.  

Sutjeska National Park

Sutjeska National Park is Bosnia’s oldest national park full of mountains and glacial lakes. It is home to the Perucica Forest reserve, one of the two remaining primeval forests in Europe and Maglic peak, the highest mountain in Bosnia. 

It was also the location of the battle of Sutjeska in the second World War in which the partisans led by Josep Tito finally defeated the Germans after one month of fighting. There is now an impressive memorial. 

Things to do in Bosnia

Bosnia not only has beautiful places to visit, but also offers lots of things to do for those that love the outdoors and adventure sports. 

Bosnia is full of unexplored nature and with its hills and mountains is one of the best hiking spots in Europe . The Via Dinarica Green trail runs right through Bosnia from Una National Park to Sarajevo and beyond.

Bosnia has 3 national parks. Una National Park, Kozara National Park and Sutjeska National Park. Sutjeska National Park probably offers the best hiking trails if it comes to mountain sceneries including the possibility to hike to a glacial lake at the border with Montenegro. 

Also from Sarajevo there are plenty of hiking opportunities. One popular hike is the trial to Lukomir. A traditional Bosnian village high up in the mountains. Another hike from Sarajevo leads to the mountain eco lodge of Vukov Konak.

Important when hiking in Bosnia is to always stay on the trails. Mines might still be a problem in some areas. This is not to scare you. Most of it is cleared by now and if you stay on well trodden paths and trails you should be fine. 

Bosnia’s rivers are great for rafting. The most beautiful rivers to go rafting are the Una in Una National Park or the Neretva river. It’s also possible to go rafting in the Tara canyon at the border with Montenegro. 

Winter sports

Is winter too cold in Bosnia? Most people will not consider traveling to Bosnia in winter. I did once and I must say that it was even more beautiful. Snow in Sarajevo is magical and the Olympic resort towns of Bjelasnica and Jahorina are the center of winter sports. 

Skiing, snowboarding and snowshoeing. It is all possible. But even if you don’t plan any adventure sports, Bjelasnica and Jahorina and other places in the Bosnian mountains offer a picturesque winter wonderland. 

When to travel in Bosnia

Bosnia is an all year round destination and you can go Backpacking Bosnia any time of the year. It all depends what you are looking for.

I already made a case for winter and Bosnia is a great destination for winter sports. Spring brings pleasant temperatures and good weather. As the snow melts the mountains become green and flowers start to bloom. 

Summers can get very hot in Bosnia, but the mountains offer a welcome respite from the heat. This is the best time for outdoor activities such as hiking and rafting.

Temperatures go down again in autumn when the colours in the trees make this the most beautiful time to go Backpacking Bosnia.

Accommodation when backpacking Bosnia

Accomodation in Bosnia is not necessarily focused on backpackers, but is nevertheless very affordable. You might be able to find backpacker hostels in popular places like Sarajevo and Mostar. But outside of the tourist trail it’s mostly bed and breakfasts or small scale guesthomes.  

On my recent trips to Bosnia I used Airbnb a lot and they have some pretty good deals. It is also a great way to meet with the local people. 

What and where to eat in Bosnia

Bosnia is one of the cheapest destinations in Europe and going out for dinner is extremely affordable in Bosnia. You will have lots of opportunities to find and try the delicious Bosnian food .

If you really want to keep things cheap one of the best places to eat is a local bakery ( called pekara). They specialize in Burek, which is basically filo dough with different fillings. Common varieties are with cheese (sirnica), spinach with cheese (zeljanica), butter (maslenica) and meat. They make a delicious and filling breakfast or lunch and also a good option if you are vegetarian.

Another cheap meal in Bosnia is the local version of kebab called cevapcici. It comes in a pita bread with raw onions and is a great snack for lunch or dinner. Look out for a cevabdzinica that you can find almost anywhere in Bosnia. Next to cevapcici they often have other grilled meats such as pljeskavica (balkan hamburger) or Raznjici (shashlik). Unfortunately vegetarians will have a hard time to find anything to eat in such restaurants.

Even though the above options are the cheapest it would be a pity not to try more Bosnian food. Bosnian cuisine has balkan, turkish and mediterannean influences with recipes that are the same for hundreds of years. Expect delicious stews with fresh vegetables cooked in their natural juices and hearty soups.

A so called ascinica (canteen) offers simple home made traditional Bosnian cuisine on a budget, but the quality varies a lot. For the best Bosnian food experience you should treat yourself on a visit to one of the ethnic restaurants such as Sadrvan in Mostar or Inat Kuca in Sarajevo. You can check my list of the best budget restaurants in Sarajevo .

Try for example dolma (meat in grape leaves) or muckalica (stew of meat and vegetables). Personal favourites are tarhana (tomato based soup with a local pasta), Bosanski lonac (Bosnian pot) and peksimeti (fried mini breads) 

Language and culture in Bosnia

Language and culture are a bit of a complicated issue in Bosnia Herzegovina. Officially there are three languages. Bosnian, Serbian and Croatian. They are very similar to each other and people speaking any of these will understand the others. Bosnian and Croatian use the Latin alphabet whereas Serbian is in the cyrillic script.

Bosnia has always been a country where east meets west and where different cultures came together. It was once ruled by Illyrian tribes, the Romans, the Ottomans, the Austrio-Hungarians and Tito’s Yugoslavia. The country as we know it now got its independence in 1995 after a bloody civil war in which the Bosniaks, Croats and Serbs fought against each other.  

In the Dayton peace agreements Bosnia became a sovereign state divided in two. The Serb populated Republika Srpska and the Croat Bosniak federation of Bosnia Herzegovina.  

I highly recommend you to read some books about Bosnia’s history before you go to get a better understanding of the current situation. Some good books are Bosnia: a short history by Noel Malcolm or the fall of Yugoslavia by Misha Glenny. 

How to travel in Bosnia

Backpacking bosnia by bus.

If you are using public transport, buses are the best way to explore Bosnia. Travelling between the major cities is easier than the information online may suggest. Finding up to date schedules isn’t very straightforward. There are different private companies and not all of them publish their schedules on the internet. 

That said, there should be at least one bus per day or more between the bigger towns. You can buy tickets at the bus station. In most cases you can buy tickets on the same day, but popular routes do get fully booked. Going to the bus station the day before you want to travel to check the latest timetable and to buy your ticket isn’t a bad idea. 

It’s not complete, but through Autobusni Kolodvor , ticket4me and getbybus it is possible to check some timetables and even buy some tickets online beforehand. Some reliable agencies are Autoprevoz and Centotrans.  

Do keep in mind that there are less bus connections on the weekends and between Republika Srpska and the federation of Bosnia Herzegovina. Options to travel in between these two entities is limited. 

Backpacking bosnia by train

Bosnia’s train infrastructure was badly affected by the civil war. For a long time trains had a reputation for being slow, uncomfortable and full of chain smoking locals. 

In recent years Bosnia has invested in its rail network though. Plans to reopen certain domestic and international routes are promising. Check the Bosnian railways for up to date schedules. You can buy tickets at the railway station.

One noteworthy train journey is the Sarajevo to Mostar train that competes with the Belgrade to Bar train for being the most beautiful train journey in Europe.

Since 2017, Bosnia uses new Talgo trains for this daily journey making it a convenient 2 hour trip by train. This is probably the only route where the train is now actually faster than the bus. 

Backpacking Bosnia by car

If you want to visit Bosnia off the beaten path, it’s probably best to have your own car. Renting a car in Bosnia is incredibly cheap and gives you a lot of flexibility to include places like Una and Sutjeska National Park and to make day trips to Bosnia’s incredible nature from the main cities.

For example, having a car makes it possible to visit Bjelasnica and Jahorina from Sarajevo, Pocitelj from Mostar or Boracko lake from Konjic. These are just a few of the exciting places to see in Bosnia.  

Useful Apps for backpacking Bosnia

Mojtaxi or taxibih.

Taxi’s in Bosnia are incredibly cheap. For those who prefer the easy use of a taxi hailing app can use either mojTaxi or TaxiBiH

Google Translate

Although the younger generation do speak english, the older generation is less fluent. Google Translate will be useful in this case. 

Money matters for Backpacking Bosnia

Bosnia has its own currency, the convertible mark (KM or BAM). Originally it was linked to the German Mark, nowadays the exchange rate is around 1 Mark for 2 Euro. In touristic places they might also accept Euro’s, but this is not always the case. 

There are plenty of ATM’s in the bigger cities where you can get Bosnian Marks. If you plan to go to the countryside for a longer period you may want to bring enough marks with you.  

Costs of travel in Bosnia

Bosnia is one of the cheapest countries in Europe to travel in. Prices for accommodation, food and transport are all relatively low. 

Accommodation : around 10 Euro for a bed in a dormitory and around 20 Euro for a budget private double room and 30 Euro for a midrange private double room. 

Food : less than 5 Euro if you stick to fast food cevapcici and burek, around 10 Euro if you go to a midrange restaurant

Transport : 5 Euro for the bus from Sarajevo to Mostar (3 hrs) up to 23 Euro for the bus from Sarajevo to Bihac (7 hrs). 

Tours : tours will be your biggest expense if you opt for them. They might be necessary if you don’t have your own transport or you have limited time and wish to visit some off the beaten path places like Una National Park, Sutjeska National Park or Pocitelj. You might also be interested in hiking tours or rafting tours. 

Tour prices differ. One reliable agency is Green Visions where rafting tours are available from 40 Euro onwards and a day hike tour from Sarajevo to Lukomir for 50 Euro. 

Safety when backpacking Bosnia?

Despite its turbulent past, Bosnia is now a very safe country to travel in. Crime rates are very low and you can easily avoid becoming the victim of pickpocketing by taking the usual precautions.

The main concerns in Bosnia have to do with road safety and land mines. Although road infrastructure is improving, some roads are pretty bad, especially if you go off the beaten path. Locals drive pretty fast as well.

Land mines are still a big problem in Bosnia. The highly populated areas are cleared, but in the countryside and some of the remote mountain ranges you will still find minefields. Sometimes there are warning signs next to the road, but this is not always the case.

Still, it is unlikely you will become a victim unless you really want to do some hiking in unexplored areas where very few people go. Use your common sense and stay on well established hiking trails or use a guide who knows the area. 

Solo female travel in Bosnia

Bosnia is also very safe for solo female travellers. From my own experience I have felt perfectly safe walking through cities like Sarajevo, Mostar or Tuzla on my own. People are very friendly and when traveling by bus people sometimes asked where I was from.

The major religion in the Federation of Bosnia Herzegovina is islam. Dressing modestly is appreciated, but because of the multicultural nature of the country it is not as important as in other muslim countries in the region. 

It might be useful to have a scarf with you if you wish to visit religious places, but in most cases these will be available on site as well, like in the Blagaj monastery near Mostar.

Resources about Backpacking Bosnia

Kami and the rest of the world : One of my favourite blogs about Eastern Europe. Kami has visited Bosnia several times and has some interesting posts about the country with useful tips. 

Kathmandu and Beyond : The couple from Kathmandu and beyond have travelled extensively in the Balkans including Bosnia Herzegovina. They have some great posts on Bosnia with some off the beaten path places and unusual things to do. 

Bradt guide Bosnia : The best travel guide about Bosnia is the Bradt guide that is very strong on background information. 

Bradt Guide Via Dinarica : The Bradt Guide also has a travel guide on the Via Dinarica for those who want to hike the White trail through Bosnia.

Lonely Planet Western Balkans : The Lonely Planet does not have a guide for Bosnia in particular, but their guide on the western Balkans has a useful chapter about the country. 

Black lamb and grey falcon by Rebecca West : This travel book is the account of Rebecca’s West journey through Yugoslavia in 1937. It is rich in history and ethnography about the region.  

Disclaimer :  This post about backpacking Bosnia contains affiliate links. If you buy any service through any of my links, I will get a small commission at no extra cost to you. These earnings help me to keep Backpack Adventures alive! Thanks for your support!

25 thoughts on “Backpacking Bosnia: the ultimate travel guide”

It’s a beautiful and underrated place. I hope to visit it one day and soon.

Looks so much like Croatia! Definitely a country I would like to visit. Great pictures and great advice on Airbnb. Have you considered optimising your blog for mobile?

thank you for sharing your advice. It is supposed to be optimized for mobile and it is on mine, but I have heard feedback from others that it is not for every mobile phone :(. I am workling on this in the future.

I would love to visit Bosnia! I love the architecture in Mostar judging by your photos, and the food from the restaurant there looks delicious. It must have been a cool experience visiting the monastery too.

Mostar is on my list! These Balkan countries are all still relatively untouched and feel so fresh, though they are all somewhat similar in many ways.

I can’t wait to get to Mostar someday. It looks so quaint and lovely.

Wow I have never been to Bosnia, but it looks beautiful. The drive from Sarajevo to Mostar looks stunning! Those views. It’s sad to hear about the unemployment rate in Tuzla. I hope things begin to look up for the community of Tuzla soon. Mostar looks lovely and well worth visiting. Thanks for sharing.

I had only ever heard of Sarajevo before! I had no idea there were so many beautiful places to see Bosnia!

Bosnia looks gorgeous! I really can’t wait to get myself over there! Any must see sights that I shouldn’t miss?

Mostar is on my list! I’ve seen so many stunning photos of it, but you’ve just added a few more spots. Clearly Bosnia needs to be in the near future trips 🙂

Bosnia looks like a fun place to explore. How was the food and the people?

Your international volunteering is inspiring! What a great way to see the world and give back! Thank you for the well written blog.

I’ve been to a few of the former Yugoslav states but not Bosnia – yet! I had a Bosnian refugee friend in college and some friends with the UN who were in Kosovo, it’s a fascinating place. Thanks for reminding me of Mostar – definitly want to see that. I love your photos of the old streets 🙂

Great place, not too crowded with tourists yet. The mountain side monastery looks gorgeous. I will look into how Airbnb works, thank you for the tips.

I still have to visit Bosnia, but my other half did, and as you said, he loved it. He loved Mostar and he loved Sarajevo. So I have to go and visit.

Wow. The “don’t forget ’93” stone really got me…

I had a psychology lecturer at university who would wax lyrical about Bosnia. He said it was somewhere everyone should visit once in their life, after reading your post, I might have to agree with him.

My friends visited Sarajevo and Mostar last summer and were blown away. Sadly lots of people still associate Bosnia with war but it is definitely moving onto people’s radar. It must have been so interesting to see the change since the last time you visited.

Many people when they hear about “Bosnia,” the first thing that comes to their mind is a war-torn country referring to the armed conflict between Bosnia and Herzegovina in the early 90s. We’re glad that we are more open-minded.

What a scenic place! This is a great place for backpacking. We wouldn’t mind sitting all afternoon having a latte on those quiet streets. The river scenes are simply awesome!

You are right, Bosnia is Europe’s best kept secret! It looks like a delightful country. Mostar looks so beautiful and the food sounds like its really good. If it is anything like Montenegro then we know it truly is good! Curios to know what Bosnia’s traditional cuisine is and what your picture of food is.

It’s always interesting to return to a place you already been to. Bosnia is on my list for this year too so it was great to see a glimpse of what life is like there. I usually opt for Airbnb too. I love how it helps out families while giving you an authentic look at a culture.

My travel partner and I have a whole list of countries we want to see when we move to Europe. Bosnia was on the list but after your post, I think it got bumped to the top! How beautiful!

Oh, this is bringing back such happy memories of my time in Bosnia! The people were so kind, the scenery was so beautiful, and the food was pretty good too (even as a vegetarian!). Hopefully I’ll get to visit again in the future!

We loved our time in Bosnia but only went to Mostar. Will need to go back. Thanks for sharing.

Such a Very nice. Posts shared useful information and meaningful life, I’m glad to be reading this article and hope to soon learn the next article.

Thank you for the introduction of a range of information that is very interesting to see in this article. Thanks for sharing wonderful information.

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Bosnia Road Trip: Off the Beaten Path in the Beautiful Balkans

Followers of my blog know I’m a little cuckoo for Bosnia-Herzegovina . I love its thriving cities, its beautiful landscape, its vivid culture, and its kind people. Over the course of about a dozen trips, I’ve mostly visited Mostar , Sarajevo , and the countryside sights scattered near them. And one thing remains constant: The more I see of Bosnia, the more I fall in love with it.

So, on my latest guidebook research trip, I scheduled a couple of extra days to delve deeper — into parts of Bosnia that few Americans visit, or have even heard of. I immediately thought of my travel buddy, Ben, the only American I know who geeks out about arcane Yugoslav history as much as I do. I shot him an email saying, “Could I interest you in a road trip through Travnik, Jajce, and Banja Luka?” I knew I’d found my Yugo-soulmate when he responded: “Ooooh! Jajce!”

And so Ben and I met up one Friday afternoon in Sarajevo, and caught up as we fortified ourselves with grilled meats and uštipci (chunks of fried dough). The next morning, we hopped into our car, curled up mountain roads out of town (past the 1984 Winter Olympics stadium), and drove the entire length of the Bosnian freeway system in a matter of 45 minutes. The new road was slick and efficient, hinting at a promising future for this little country — which strives both to upgrade its infrastructure, and to be better connected to the rest of Europe.

Clearing the Sarajevo suburbs, we kept our eyes peeled through the town of Viskovo, watching for the symmetrically shaped hill called Visočica — the site of what some believe (with little evidence other than a neat shape) to be a pyramid built tens of thousands of years ago. There was no time to stop and investigate, but with a quick glance from the highway, Ben and I were satisfied that science would be able debunk the “Bosnian pyramids” without our firsthand accounts.

Approaching our first stop, Travnik, we pulled off the main road to spiral up an impossibly twisty, impossibly steep lane striped with teeth-jarring cobbles, to reach the hilltop fortress overlooking town. Overshooting the gate but finding no parking higher up, I found myself doing a white-knuckle, nine-point turn to make my way back down to a wide spot in the “road,” wedged between someone’s front stoop and their mailbox.

Hiking up to Travnik’s fortress, we were rewarded with sweeping views over the pastoral Bosnian countryside. The steep hills, fuzzy and green, were punctuated by a smattering of minarets. For all the things Bosnia is known for — and unfortunately, to most Americans, the list consists almost solely of its horrific 1990s warfare — it seldom gets full credit for being simply beautiful. Overlooking the scenic valley that hems in little Travnik, wishing I had more time to do a little hiking, it occurred to me that rugged little Bosnia is like Switzerland, but without money. If only it had better infrastructure and a higher standard of living, Travnik would be a posh ski resort. But it doesn’t…so it isn’t.

Throughout our road trip, I was on a crusade to try ćevapčići in its many forms. For aficionados of Balkan cuisine, Bosnia is the homeland of ćevap — perfectly seasoned minced meat formed into little links, then grilled on an open fire — much as France specializes in cheese, or Spain corners the market on bizarre seafood. I was excited to start my culinary adventure in Travnik, based on the recommendation of our Bosnian friend (and fellow Rick Steves tour guide), Sanel : “While in Travnik, for the love of God, do not miss ćevapčići in Restaurant Hari.”

Tragically, Restaurant Hari was closed for renovation. For the love of God, indeed! But our search for it led us to Travnik’s architectural gem: the hauntingly beautiful, wood-carved Sulejmanija Mosque. The interior was closed, but we discovered a modern mini-market tucked in its basement. Ben explained that this custom dates back to the earliest days of Islam in Bosnia, when it made sense to invite merchants to open up shop in this central and well-protected space. Just up the street is a museum filling the former home of Nobel Prize-winning novelist Ivo Andrić. There’s a lot going on in little Travnik.

Undeterred, we continued on our ćevap quest, which took us across the main highway to another Bosnian friend’s recommendation: Lutvina Kahva, a grill café with an inviting riverside terrace perched just so, at the end of a long, gushing series of gentle waterfalls.

In the Muslim parts of Bosnia, as throughout the Islamic world, running water is a cultural fixture. While Catholics bless still water and call it holy, Muslims believe that the power of nature is in its movement; they prefer water to be continually flowing, cleansing, replenishing, circulating. Just as a dervish whirls to connect with the spirituality of the earth and the heavens, so, too, should water be in motion.

Listening to the mesmerizing gurgle, I dug into a big plate of perfectly grilled ćevap on flatbread ( somun ), slathered with the decadent, perfectly tart cream cheese called kajmak , sprinkled with chopped fresh onions, and liberally doused with the explosively flavorful eggplant-and-red-pepper paste called ajvar . To finish the meal, I ordered a cup of bosanska kafa (unfiltered Bosnian coffee) — which, just as our friend had told us, came on its own little copper tray with a Turkish delight (rahatlokum)… and a single cigarette (Yugoslav-era Sava brand, of course). Caffeine, sugar, and nicotine: The holy triumvirate of Bosnian stimulants.

Climbing back into our car, we languidly curled through more idyllic Bosnian countryside — and over a desolate mountain pass — about an hour to our next stop: the town of Jajce (pronounced “YAI-tseh”). A provincial center of about 30,000 people, Jajce owns just about the most stunning setting of any town I’ve seen: Preening on a hilltop over thundering waterfalls that tumble into a tight riverbend.

But for Partisans and Tito sympathizers, that is all merely preamble to Jajce’s true claim to fame as the birthplace of Yugoslavia. It was here, in November of 1943, that the Anti-Fascist Council for the National Liberation of Yugoslavia (AVNOJ) held its second convention. While that sounds pretty obscure to outsiders, it’s a big deal: It was at this meeting that representatives of various groups decided that, should they prevail in World War II, they would create a bold new incarnation of Yugoslavia.

Ben and I drove into town, our Yugoslav-history-wonk pulses quickening. (As an indication of how off-the-deep-end I am for the marginalia of Yugoslav history, I have a vintage, circa-1970 tourist map of Yugoslavia hanging over my desk, next to photos of my wife, parents, and dearest friends.)

Parking the car, I paused to purchase a laughably flimsy Yugoslav flag from a street vendor before stepping into the convention hall. The big, mostly empty space — decorated as it was the day of that fateful convention — resembled a midcentury Holiday Inn ballroom. There stood Tito — in bronze statue form — at the stage. And, because the Yugoslavs were hoping to curry favor with the Allies, on the walls hung a motley crew of portraits: Tito, Stalin, Marx, Churchill, and FDR.

I must admit, the place gave me goosebumps. This is the “Independence Hall” of Yugoslavia, where — all joking aside — a ragtag band of homegrown freedom fighters had the audacity to form a country that did not even exist yet. Perusing the exhibits — one apiece furnished by each of Yugoslavia’s six constituent republics — I was swept up in this vision of a united Yugoslavia, which would flourish for nearly five decades before it was snuffed out by land-hungry politicians.

My nostalgia for Yugoslavia is, of course, tempered by an awareness of its many flaws. And, I think, it’s stoked by my knowledge of what happened at the end of the story: Yugoslavia was ripped apart by those who placed their own interests above the collective whole…and Bosnia paid the worst price of all.

Buying matching Tito lapel pins from the gift shop, we set out to explore the rest of Jajce — hiking down to the base of its thundering waterfall, then up through its antique streets to the mighty fortress capping the town. Jajce is a charming burg. With a little investment, it could be every bit as vital and alluring as trendy places like Český Krumlov, Romania’s Sighișoara, or Germany’s Rothenburg. Instead, it’s a sleepy town with little touristic metabolism. Perched on the ramparts of Jajce’s fortress, surveying the verdant hillsides, I was struck again by how magnificent this mountainous country is — and how, with some smart investment, it could become a travelers’ mecca. Switzerland without money, indeed.

Back in our car, we made a quick pit stop at yet another water feature — a higgledy-piggledy little stand of antique mills balanced just so on rocks in the middle of a waterfall.

Leaving Jajce, we set out for our next destination, in the other half of Bosnia. The Dayton Peace Accords that ended the wars in Bosnia in 1995 gerrymandered the country to create two major sub-states. One was the Bosniak and Croat part of Bosnia, which we’d been traveling through so far. The other was the Republika Srpska, a Serb-dominated territory that we were heading for now. Our next stop: Banja Luka (pop. 200,000), the capital of Republika Srpska.

We crossed the internal border with little fanfare, but soon we began to notice more Cyrillic on the signs, instead of the  more familiar Roman alphabet we’d been seeing so far. Approaching Banja Luka, we drove through the stunning canyon of the Vrbas River, a major rafting destination. The sight of a few rafters completing their late-day journey stoked our interest, but the next morning, our many phone calls to various rafting operators went unanswered. Apparently in Repubika Srpska, Sunday morning is sacrosanct — even if a pair of foreigners is dying to give you their money.

We checked into our Airbnb: a sprawling, well-equipped apartment a 10-minute walk from the center of town, all for about $40 a night. The front door — with a locking mechanism that slid a dozen no-nonsense bolts decisively into place, essentially turning the entire apartment into a fortified panic room — reminded us that, with the recent legacy of gruesome war, Bosnians don’t take home security lightly.

It was time for dinner, so we walked along Banja Luka’s broad boulevards to the river. We weren’t sure what to expect from this would-be capital of a would-be breakaway republic with a minuscule GDP. But we were pleasantly surprised by how modern and tidy Banja Luka felt — with the pride, economic metabolism, and vitality of any mid-sized Central European city.

I had only one agenda in Banja Luka, and that was to try the local ćevap. Grilled meat gourmands know that they do it differently here: Instead of little link-shaped sausages, Banja Luka-style ( banjalučki) ćevapi is one long, continuous ćevap with hot peppers on the side. Yes, I’d already had ćevap once today. But when was I gonna make it back to Banja Luka?

We went to the historic fortress and nabbed the last available table at the fancy restaurant inside, Tvrđava Kastel. It was a rollicking scene, with a Balkan brass band blaring jaunty tunes in the corner. At the next table, a comically musclebound meathead grew increasingly animated in conversation with his tablemate. As he slowly amassed an impressive collection of empty beer glasses, it became difficult to tell whether this was a happy conversation or an angry conversation. As a pair of bespectacled, brainy Americans, we kept a very low profile.

I ordered my ćevap , but was crestfallen when it showed up not as my fantasized-for banjalučki ćevapi, but the same old version I’ve had all over Bosnia. Meanwhile, Ben chatted up our middle-aged, matronly server in Serbian. Charmed, she told Ben about her dear daughter, who lived part-time in Florida and worked the rest of the time on a cruise ship, hoping to permanently relocate stateside. Ben and I were imagining a demure, wholesome young woman pulling herself up by the bootstraps. But when she showed us a picture, we instantly grasped two things: First, the daughter — a masterpiece of plastic surgery, makeup, and spandex — was no shrinking violet. (The prevailing beauty aesthetic in these parts can most diplomatically be described as “porn glam.”) And second, our server had matchmaking designs on Ben. (“He can get you that visa you’ve been wanting. And he speaks Serbian, too!”) Escaping just before the formal proposal, we made our way back to our high-rise fortress.

The next morning, we poked around Banja Luka a bit more before heading out. The Museum of Republika Srpska fills a run-down, concrete-and-glass building that feels deserted. But, digging into the exhibits, we were impressed by how thoughtfully and even-handedly this almost-country presented itself. It accomplished what the national museum for any underdog nation should, which is to endear and intrigue us to a place we’d never really known much about.

The most compelling exhibit detailed the World War II years, when Bosnia was ruled by a Nazi puppet government called the Ustaše. The Croat-controlled Ustaše pursued the same genocidal regime as the Nazis, but with a regionally inflected spin — targeting their historic enemies, the Serbs. And the museum’s exhibits are as harrowing as any we had ever seen (mind you, Ben and I have both guided tours to Auschwitz-Birkenau). Ustaše camps lacked gas chambers, so most deaths were from blunt-force trauma. One grisly photo showed a very young Ustaše soldier grinning widely — as if in a prom portrait — as he posed with the disembodied head of an executed Serb warrior. And an entire wall was filled with gruesome photographs of babies who died at Ustaše concentration camps.

The most notorious of those camps — Jasenovac — sits just across the modern border, in Croatia. So Ben and I decided to stop off there on our way to catch his flight in Zagreb. The Jasenovac memorial site includes a small, modern museum documenting the history of the camp. The names of victims are etched in glass panels in the walls and hanging from the ceiling. And the thoughtful exhibits toe a very careful line, with soberly written displays and recorded testimonials from former prisoners — but without a trace of the graphic photos we’d just seen across the border. Many observers feel that, unlike Germany, Croatia has not entirely owned up to its culpability in World War II atrocities — partly because its 1940s activities later became entangled with its 1990s independence. And, while this museum is an important step forward, I couldn’t shake the feeling that they could have told the story with a little more…enthusiasm.

The emotional centerpiece of Jasenovac is a long, pensive hike from the museum: an evocative, flower-shaped sculpture by Serb artist Bogdan Bogdanović. Standing here, listening to the distant rumble of the sleek Croatian expressway, and looking just across the river to the hills of Bosnia’s Republika Srpska, Ben and I reflected on the contrasts that a whirlwind road trip through Bosnia offers.

Our journey is over. But one thing’s for sure: We’ll both be back. Bosnia has a strange magnetism on travelers…and not just those of us who have a Yugoslav map on our wall.

8 Replies to “Bosnia Road Trip: Off the Beaten Path in the Beautiful Balkans”

Very interesting reading. I enjoyed your writing very much. I have a similar fetish about the Soviet Union and Eastern Europe, and reading these things about Yugoslavia and today’s Bosnia touched me. Please keep up the good work.

I am so keen to explore beyond Sarajevo, which I absolutely loved. Thanks for reminding me of the amazing food

Damn, you and Ben should have invited me and Barb! :-)

These stories brought tears to my eyes , I am Bosnian and I know all these little towns that you visited… Thank you so much for sharing

I’m envious. That’s the kind of trip that I dream about making someday.

Enjoy your style of writing. It really puts the reader in the moment. Your comments about Bosnian home security really brought me back to a Bishkek apartment. I was on a USAID Kyrgyzstan assignment. I arrived in the dead of night after a long flight. The host was very gracious and proud of the apartment, but for me the many deadbolts and communist styled concrete building was too jail like. Fortunately I was so tired I just crashed and enjoyed a wonderful assignment.

I n 2016 we drove from Zagreb to Sarajevo and stopped at this quite large modern church in the middle of nowhere. We could not figure out what it was doing so far from a population center and it was quite large. Any ideas?

I, too, have a weird and unexplainable draw to the Balkans and am planning a self-guided tour by bus there this summer. Thanks for the article. By the way, a friend and I spent years searching New England for the best corned beef hash. Just sayin’

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Bosnia and Herzegovina 5-day Itinerary

Bosnia & Herzegovina is an unmissable little country to travel to, if you ever find yourself in the Balkans or neighboring Croatia . Many people only know of Bosnia as a country with a war-torn history, but there’s a lot more to be discovered. I recommend spending at least  five days in Bosnia and Herzegovina to explore this stunning country! 

I was thoroughly surprised when I stepped off my bus in Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina  to find a city with cobble-stoned, Islamic-influence charm. Bosnia’s capital of Sarajevo was also a shopper’s paradise, with aromas of Bosnian coffee (similar to Turkish coffee) wafting from every cafe. The surrounding buildings riddled with bullet holes however, remind visitors of a past of sieges and bloodshed. 

This Bosnia & Herzegovina 5-day itinerary includes many highlights of the off-the-beaten-path country. Bosnia has a unique culture compared to its neighbors, and a long and interesting history that should not be forgotten. Its small size allows you to travel quickly from place to place. You can visit many of the country’s points of interest in a short period of time. 

Here are my recommendations for places to go during a 5-day Bosnia and Herzegovina Itinerary!

Days 1-2: Mostar

Mostar was one of my favorite towns in all of the Balkans , and a great first stop for a Bosnia 5-day itinerary. The old city center made me feel like I was transported to the alleyways of  Morocco or Turkey . Shops displayed beautiful glass bowls, hanging lamps, jewelry, and intricate teapots and tea cup sets.

The mosaic cobblestone streets (though difficult to walk over in sandals) mirrored the stone gray buildings. Only the storefront facades were painted in bright pinks, yellows, and blues. Many rooftops were orange, similar to other Balkan countries. 

Mostar is a gateway town that can easily be reached from nearby cities in Croatia like Split and Dubrovnik . It’s the perfect place to start your Bosnia and Herzegovina itinerary! 

Things To Do in Mostar:

Wander through Mostar’s  Old Town  and pick up a few Bosnian-made crafts and souvenirs. Take breaks at different coffee shops, and sit with the locals while drinking Bosnian coffee out of tiny cups. Don’t drink the coffee grounds at the bottom! There are many beautiful restaurants with patios overlooking the small river valley that cuts through Mostar, perfect for lounging. 

Mostar’s claim to fame is a massive arched bridge that crosses over its river. It’s steep and a long way down to the river below, but the view from the top is spectacular. Many times you’ll see locals rallying a cheering crowd of people. That means someone is going to dive off the top of the bridge into the frigid river below. Don’t try this as an amateur. 

Head to the larger bridge a couple hundred meters down the river, which is a great viewpoint to watch people jumping.

Walking just outside of the main part of town will take you past some buildings that were never fixed after the many battles that tore through the country. Some are covered with bullet holes, others with cannon blasts. Some buildings sit in ruins with gaping rooftops overgrown with weeds.

On Day 2 of your five day Bosnia & Herzegovina itinerary,   join a tour or hop on public transportation to one of Mostar’s nearby attractions. There are many shops and small tourist offices in central Mostar that offer day-trips to neighboring towns.

The most popular day-trip from Mostar is to  Blagaj Tekija , a centuries-old Muslim Dervish monastery that’s built into the side of a cliff and over the river. 

Kravice Waterfalls is another attraction close by for travelers eager to swim, but not willing to take the jump off the Mostar bridge. 

Days 3-4: Sarajevo

Although Sarajevo was under siege for almost 4 years in the 90’s during the Bosnian war, it’s now a bustling metropolis filled with hotels, shopping malls, and trendy restaurants. It’s a great place to spend two or more days during your Bosnia & Herzegovina itinerary. 

In Sarajevo, you might feel like you’re in any other European capital city! Sarajevo is unique because of its Islamic influence, which dates back to when this region was under Ottoman Empire rule (think Turkey ). 

The central tourist district of Sarajevo is made up of a grid of alleyways filled with small cafes and craft shops, selling rugs, pottery, knives, and tea pots and cups. 

Small tables outside the restaurants are crowded with people drinking Bosnian coffee in the mornings, or eating large slices of bureks (rolled, flaky pastry filled with cheese, spinach, and/or meat) and cevapi (kebab-like pita bread sandwich with lamb or beef chunks inside) in the afternoons and evenings.

Foodies might be interested in visiting some of the  best restaurants in Sarajevo  such as bakeries, cafeterias and restaurants to sample local delicacies. 

Things To Do in Sarajevo:

Wander around the shops, restaurants, and cafes of the Old Town in Sarajevo and see what else you stumble upon. Sarajevo has a shopping bazaar, several amazing local bakeries (search for bureks!), sweet shops, and a local meat and cheese market inside a large pillared building. 

Check out the Latin Bridge , where Archduke Franz Ferdinand was assassinated to spark the start of World War I. There’s a small plaque to the side explaining the historical significance of the bridge. It’s now covered in “love locks” like many other famous bridges around the world – a reminder to how much things have changed since WWI. 

For less than $15 USD per person, book a  Grand Tour  of Sarajevo or take it underground for a  Tunnel Tour ! 

Sarajevo is situated in a valley, so there are many beautiful viewpoints overlooking the city, including the abandoned Yellow Bastion . There’s a massive cemetery on the walk up, a quick 20 mins from Sarajevo’s Old Town. 

Museum-lovers will rejoice in Sarajevo , a city with so much history that is well preserved in many different museums. It’s worth visiting at least one of these museums during your five-day Bosnia and Herzegovina itinerary. 

• There’s a  Sarajevo Tunnel Museum  which showcases Sarajevo’s one lifeline to the outside world during the siege: an 800-meter, 1.5m tall tunnel dug over six months using only shovels and pickaxes. 
•  The  Museum of Crimes Against Humanity and Genocide  showcases the atrocities committed between 1992-1995 during the Bosnian war
• The  War Childhood Museum  collected memorabilia and testimonials from children who lived through wars. Books, toys, shoes and other artifacts are preserved here 
• A  National Museum of Bosnia & Herzegovina  may be a breath of fresh air after learning about so much dark history in the other museums. This museum is more of a natural history museum, showcasing fossils, flora and fauna, and minerals found in the region.

Day 5 - Jajce

A nice change of pace from the touristy Mostar and Sarajevo is a small mountain town of Jajce ( pronounced yai-tse ). This was the last stop on my 5-day Bosnia and Herzegovina itinerary.

Jajce has a small hilltop fortress and a mini Old Town , which has a couple preserved temples and historical museums. 

A large park with many open spaces, benches, and a running trail surrounds a river that cuts through town. Many beautiful bridges are built over this river that eventually leads to the Pliva Waterfall . 

There are two viewpoints for this waterfall, one that takes you to an atrium and concrete platform to view the falls from below, and one in the park just above it where you can see the falls from the top. 

Follow this same river uphill and there are several beautiful lakes, with old wooden water mills built over some smaller falls. 

Jajce can also be visited as a  day-trip from Sarajevo

After your 5-day Bosnia & Herzegovina Itinerary: Zagreb, Croatia

Once you are finished with your Bosnia itinerary, you can head to neighboring Croatia. Jajce’s bus station is well connected to the surrounding Bosnian villages, and there are a couple busses leaving each day for Croatia . I boarded a bus here bound for Zagreb , which cost 35 Marks or 18 Euros. 

Check out my other Balkan country itineraries

• Bussing Around the Balkans : How I visited nine Balkan countries in six weeks, and Tips for Traveling the Balkans By Bus
• Kosovo Three-Day Itinerary
• Croatia Two-Week Itinerary
• Montenegro Five-Day Itinerary

Heading to BiH? Pin this post!

You might also like:

Top Things To Do in Zagreb, Croatia

Off-The-Beaten-Path Europe Destinations: Western Europe

Best Eastern European Cities For An Off-The-Beaten-Path Vacation

5 thoughts on “ bosnia and herzegovina 5-day itinerary ”.

We’re planning a road trip through the Balkans for this year or the next, and this guide spells out an itinerary so well! One thing we weren’t sure of was how much time we’d want, so I’m happy to read 5 days is enough time to do everything you include here!

The Balkan countries I would spend more than five days in are Croatia, Bulgaria, and Montenegro, in that order and if you have the time 🙂 Enjoy the Balkans!

Nice post about Bosnia and Herzegovina. Thank you for promoting my country…and one notice, not Turkish coffe than Bosnian coffe.

Thanks for the note, I’ll correct that in the article!

Thank you for your itinerary. My trip to Bosnia and Herzegovina was an incredible experience. The country was just beautiful. The people were also incredibly welcoming and hospitable. Overall, it was a truly memorable trip.

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17 BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA TRAVEL TIPS: What to Know Before You Go!

The Balkans are quickly becoming a trending destination for intrepid travelers, with some countries — like Serbia , Croatia, and Montenegro —becoming the most popular destinations.

Which is fantastic if you plan to visit them, but not so great if you want to travel to places that are more off the beaten path, such as Bosnia and Herzegovina!

When we planned our trip to BiH, I was surprised at the lack of blog posts and articles, especially on destinations that are outside of the capital, like Blagaj or Jajce (two of my new favorite places!)

After traveling around the country for a month, checking out all the awesome attractions, and making a few mistakes along the way, I decided to write this mini resource for those who want to travel to Bosnia and Herzegovina but don’t know where to start. 

These Bosnia and Herzegovina travel tips include everything you need to know, from money to safety, customs, transportation, accommodations, and other interesting tidbits of information. In a nutshell, these are all of the things to know before visiting Bosnia for the first time.

Ready? Let’s check it out!

1 – There’s no war anymore… 


Before we get started with everything else on this list, let’s get this (very important) fact out of the way first. 

Unfortunately, the first thing that many people associate with Bosnia and Herzegovina is the war that happened right after Yugoslavia fell apart in the mid-1990’s. You may have heard about it, seen the Yugoslav Wars on TV, or even read about it in your history books . 

However, the war was finished quite a while ago — at the end of 1995! — and it is completely safe to travel to Bosnia and Herzegovina. 

3 – Waterfalls, ski resorts, lakes, and more!

Speaking of nature… Bosnia and Herzegovina i s one of the most up-and-coming tourist destinations, especially for those who love nature. 

If you’re still planning out your itinerary, check out one (or all!) of these amazing natural destinations in Bosnia: 

Jajce — Waterfalls that are contenders for a UNESCO World Heritage Site

Blagaj   — A Dervish house nestled next to a spring and, arguably, one of the most beautiful places in Bosnia 

Počitelj — Just a quick drive from Mostar is this historic open air museum / village, featuring Ottoman architecture and stunning views along a karst

Bihać — Located on the banks of the Una River, Bihać is full of resorts and activities in nature 

Neum — The only coastal town in BiH, Neum packs a lot into its 20 km (12 mi) of coastline

Jahorina — Nestled above Sarajevo, Jahorina is the most popular ski resort in the country and even hosted the 1984 Winter Olympics!  

4 – A Very Easy Conversion

Psst… Want to know a really easy life hack? 
2 KM is 1 EUR :) 

The Bosnian Convertible Mark (shortened to KM) is officially pegged to the Euro to make it easier to keep track of currency exchanges. 

However, the Euro is widely used in restaurants, shops, and hotels all around Bosnia, so it doesn’t hurt to ask if you can pay in EUR if you’re running out of KMs.

Now you’re ready to go out there and buy souvenirs without having to do a bunch of mental math! 

5 – Your Credit Card Will Collect Dust

Since we’re on the topic of currency, I’m going to be honest and say that Bosnia and Herzegovina is the country where I used my credit card the least. 

This is especially true in most cities outside of the capital (Sarajevo), as well as Sarajevo’s Old Town. Interestingly enough, there were a handful of restaurants (outside the Old Town) and a majority of grocery stores that took my credit card.

Before you travel to Bosnia, I highly highly highly recommend taking plenty of cash (such as USD or EUR bills) to exchange into KM or signing up for a card that has no foreign ATM fees (like Charles Schwab!) and taking out money when you arrive. 

6 – Be Careful of Cash Only Accommodations 

This is slightly related to what I said about the ‘cash only’ policy above, but it’s so important that it needs its own point :)

The easiest way to check if a place is cash-only is to scroll all the way to the bottom of Booking.com and under ‘House rules’ it’ll note the payment policy of the property. Typically, the majority of guesthouses and apartments are cash only, while hotels can be hit or miss. 

Looking for credit card-friendly accommodations? Check out Ibis Styles , Astra Old Town , Hotel President .

7 – Book Activities Ahead Ok ok, one last point about cash before you guys start rebelling in the comments

 If you’re low on paper bills or have high ATM fees yet still want to learn about the country, I highly recommend booking all of your tours through an online marketplace like GetYourGuide. We did this with our day trip to Jajce and were so glad that we did! 

Here are some of the top tours in Bosnia & Herzegovina: 

8 – The Country with the Three Presidents 

And now for something completely different (and, frankly, a little wild). 😌

One thing that I was surprised to learn about Bosnia & Herzegovina is that it has three presidents.

Yes, you read that right: there are three official presidents in the country! And no, I’m not trolling you — here’s the official Wikipedia article so you can see for yourself.  

Each constituent group in Bosnia & Herzegovina  — Bosniaks, Croats, and Serbs — picks one president to represent them for four years. 

But Luda, how can anything get done with three presidents in power? 

To which I reply, dear reader: Does anything really get done with one president in other countries? (Joking, joking) 

While I’m not a political commentator and can’t go into much detail, our Jajce tour guide (see #7 above) said that the presidents rotate every couple of months. Isn’t that interesting? 

9 – Bosnia and Herzegovina is Rich in Diversity and Religion 

Since we’ve touched a bit about the demographics of Bosnia and Herzegovina, let’s dive a little further!

Like I mentioned, Bosnia is very diverse, especially when you consider that about 50% of the population are Muslim, 30% are Eastern Orthodox, and 15% are Catholic. 

In fact, it’s not surprising to see a mosque and a church on the same block.

The country also tends to celebrate holidays from all three religions, including Ramadan, Christmas (both on December 25 and January 7), and New Years. If you’re visiting during a holiday period, be sure to check out the Sarajevo Ramadan Festival or the Sarajevo Holiday Market (an open air Christmas market similar to those in Europe). 

10 – Apartments, Hotels, or Guesthouses? 

Just like other Balkan countries (such as Montenegro ), you’ll see a lot of guesthouses, apartments, and B&Bs (bed and breakfasts) being offered as a form of accommodation. 

In fact, you’ll most likely stay in one! 

This is because big chain hotels haven’t made their way to Bosnia & Herzegovina yet (unless you count the Swissotel or Courtyard by Marriott in Sarajevo). However, the demand for a place to stay has gone up in recent years, which is why there are dozens of smaller independent hotels and short-term rentals. 

Budget-friendly travelers can save some money by opting to reserve an apartment or a room in a guest house (versus a hotel). Another bonus is that guesthouses typically offer complimentary breakfast, while apartments have all of the convenient amenities of a typical home (such as a kitchen or washing machine — perfect for long-term travel!) 

Still didn’t book an accommodation in Bosnia? Check out my 25 Unique Hotels in Bosnia & Herzegovina blog post or see popular hostels , guesthouses , and apartments  here!  

11 – Don’t visit Mostar… 

… on a day trip ;) 

Although it’s only a 2-hour drive from Dubrovnik (Croatia), Sarajevo (Bosnia’s capital), or 3 hours from Kotor (Montenegro), Mostar really deserves more time than just a few hours of your time.  

There are two reasons why: first, the day trippers usually leave by evening, which means you can explore the city without the hordes of crowds. If you’re an early bird, you can also wake up around sunrise and have Mostar’s most famous attractions (including the Old Town and Stari Most) all to yourself! 

12 – Did You Know That Bosnia Has One of the Most Beautiful Train Rides in Europe? 

While we’re on the topic of Mostar, I have one last tip for this region.

If you’re planning to travel to Mostar, I highly recommend doing the trip via the Sarajevo to Mostar route (or vice versa). That’s because this route has one of the most beautiful (and underrated!) train rides in Europe. Although the tip is only 2 hours long, you’ll get to see emerald green rivers, cute little villages, and lush mountains peeking behind lush forests.

Bonus: the train (sometimes) has WiFi, although I’m sure you won’t need it with views like the ones mentioned above. :)

If the train doesn’t work out, there’s also the Sarajevo to Mostar bus, which is slightly longer (2.5 hours) but has very similar views. 

Planning a trip between Sarajevo to Mostar? Check out my in-depth guide here , including train and bus timetables, rental car tips, and more. 

13 – Coffee is an Important Ritual in Bosnia — Here’s How to Properly Drink It!

Did you know that Bosnia & Herzegovina is the 11th most coffee consuming nation in the world? That’s right: each citizen drinks about 6.1 kg (13 lb) of coffee per person per year, and drinking coffee is considered to be a time-honored tradition that spans centuries! 

Although the coffee is similar to that of Turkish coffee, locals would argue that the method is slightly different (and the taste is better, but that’s up to you to decide!) 

Bosnian coffee is typically prepared by adding hot water and ground coffee to a džezva (a special pot with a high neck and handle ) and boiled until the foam starts to rise. Then the džezva is taken off the heat so that the foam goes down, put back on the burner, and repeated two or three more times until it’s ready!

When ordering Bosnian coffee, you’ll typically get the following items, all neatly placed on a plate: The džezva with coffee, small cups to drink from, a container with sugar cubes, glasses of water, and often something sweet (typically a cube of rahat lokum ).  

Now you’re probably wondering, Ok, this looks delicious… but what’s the proper way to drink Bosnian coffee?

There are a few ways, but the most common is to take a little foam from the top of the džezva pot and pour some coffee into your cup, while adding the scooped foam at the end (the foam gives it that little extra kick!). Most locals will take a sugar cube and either put it under their tongue, or take small bites between sips. 

However, no matter how you drink your Bosnian coffee, there’s one very specific way not to drink it — don’t drink the coffee sludge at the bottom of the džezva, or else you’ll get a mouthful of very bitter grounds! 

Since you might also be interested in where to find the best coffee in Bosnia, I’ve compiled a few of my favorites in Sarajevo. I recommend starting at Caffe Bar ANDAR , as they include a little instruction manual on how to properly drink Bosnian coffee. It also has a very interesting history that’s reflected in its interior decor and atmosphere. :) 

Ministry of Ćejf is another great cafe that’s just a minute away from the center of Baščaršija and offers delicious desserts in addition to great coffee. If you’ve fallen in love with Bosnian coffee and want to buy your own džezva, I highly recommend going across the street (to Kovači 19) and buying it from Nermina, a female coppersmith who makes gorgeous works of art!

TRAVEL TIP: If you’re traveling to Tranvik, be sure to stop by Lutvina Kahva. Besides the beautiful setting next to a waterfall, this cafe has a very interesting house special — Bosnian coffee with a cigarette on the side! 

14 – Interesting local words If you’re like me and love learning local phrases or untranslatable words (*ahem* Hygge ), then you’ll have a great time in Bosnia. The whole language is full of beautiful expressions and melodic words! Here are some of my favorites: 

Cejf — Remember the Ministry of Cejf cafe above? This word means an (enjoyable) quirk or habit that you have that must be done in a specific order. For example, if you have a particular way of making the perfect cup of coffee or any traditions that you have while flying (mine is the typical Russian superstition of sitting on my luggage for a few minutes before heading to the airport!)

Sevdah — feeling of longing for someone or somewhere, but with a hint of melancholy. This is also similar to the word toska in Russian.

Fajda – Something useful 

Merhamet (male) / merhametli (female) – A person who has an aura of kindness

Rahatluk – A state of being happy and carefree

Sikteruša – Literally, ‘Go away coffee.’ This happens when an unwelcome guest comes and you make them coffee (to be polite), but bad-ish coffee so they leave earlier.

15 – Souvenirs to buy

Traditional rug – If you’re into art and beautiful centerpieces, then you’ll love Bosnia’s traditional carpets. The carpet style is called kilim and have bright colors, geometric patterns, and ornate designs in a variety of different sizes. 

Bosnian coffee set – If you fell in love with Bosnia’s coffee culture, why not buy yourself a set to make a cup at home and impress your friends? A typical set includes the ​​džezva (coffee pot), sugar holder, cups (typically two to four, although you can ask for more), and a platter to hold it all. 

You can find copper coffee sets sold in nearly every big city, but be careful: not all of the sets are hand-made by local artisans, and there are many cheap knockoffs that were made in factories overseas. 

If you want to support Bosnian coppersmiths, I recommend visiting the Kovači ulica (which literally translates to Blacksmiths Street) in Sarajevo and buying from there. I had the pleasure of making a ​​džezva from scratch with Nermina, the last female coppersmith in the city. Her shop is located at Kovači 19 and, besides making beautiful copper goods, she’s very friendly and has a lot of interesting stories (she created the flame torch for the European Youth Olympics recently!)

However, there’s no point of having a coffee set if it’s missing the key ingredient: coffee! Which is a good transition to the next gift… 

Although there are a handful of great coffee brands sold in Bosnia, our guide’s favorite was Zlatna Dzezva (which, coincidentally, is the most popular brand in the country). However, I also saw Franck Jubilarna and Grand Gold Kava  on shelves as well.

Other popular Bosnian souvenirs include hand-knitted socks , a zvekir motif (the large metal door knocker in traditional Bosnian homes), and local jewelry . 

If you’re planning to travel around the country, you’ll be surprised and delighted at how many local specialties there are — which, by the way, also make fantastic souvenirs! For example, the town of Konjic is one of the oldest settlements in the country and famous for its traditional wood carvings. There are a handful of local artisans who make beautiful craft from wood. 

16 – Europe’s Last Rainforest

Did you know that Bosnia has o ne of the biggest (and last) rainforests in Europe?

It’s true! Perućica Forest Reserve, located in southeastern Bosnia & Herzegovina, has an area of about 3,500 acres and is part of the larger Sutjeska National Park. It’s so unique that even UNESCO added Perucica to its tentative list of World Heritage Sites! 

There are so many interesting facts about Perucic: it’s home to the 98 meter-high Skakavac Waterfall, the highest waterfall in the country (and second-highest in Europe!), as well as nearly 200 species of trees and 1,000+ species of plants, many of which are native to the area.

However, what really surprised me was that in some parts of the forest, it’s almost impossible to walk through due to the overgrown plants and bushes and can only be done so with an experienced tour guide or ranger.

17 – Mostar Bridge Divers

I’ve covered practical basics and useful travel tips, from transportation to accommodations, money, and what to see on your trip to Bosnia and Herzegovina, so I’ll leave you with an interesting tidbit for this last point. 

You might have heard of the Old Bridge in Mostar — or are planning to visit it! —  but did you know that it has one of the oldest traditions in the country that’s still practiced to this day?

Back in the 1600s, local boys would jump off the bridge and into the water below as a rite of passage, and those who couldn’t would be a failure in life (pretty harsh, no?) 

Although nowadays this rite of passage isn’t enforced, there are still professional bridge divers that make the 20-meter jump almost every day. 

Typically, Mostar bridge divers wait until they draw enough of a crowd (and around 50 EUR in tips) before they’ll perform their famous dive. Depending on the season, these bridge divers can make multiple jumps in a day!

What’s more, adventurous travelers can try out bridge diving for themselves — all you need to do is make an appointment at the bridge diver’s club right next to the bridge, pay the fee, do a few practice runs, and voila! After you successfully do the jump, you’ll get a certificate and have your name recorded in the club’s record book. :)

Photo Credits: Mine warning sign – Julian Nyča | Bosnian money – Tyler Rossi | Perucica Forest – 00cska00 (Wikipedia) | Hotels – respective hotels 

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2 thoughts on “ 17 bosnia & herzegovina travel tips: what to know before you go ”.

Local words written here tend to be of Turkish origin (or Arabic origin that came into Bosnian through Turkish). Sikteruša in Bosnian does mean “go away coffee”, but the part “go away” or “sikter” in Turkish means….well it is more like “get the F outta here”-you know what F stands for. It’s somewhat tamed around there :)

Ahh you’re right! I’m learning Turkish right now and I can’t believe I didn’t make the connection 😅 Thank you for that insight!

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The Ultimate Bosnia Travel Guide: Tips And Must-See Attractions!

• by Nermin Mesic
• October 18, 2023

Planning a trip to Bosnia and Herzegovina can be daunting with so many amazing sites to see. Known for its rich history , diverse culture , and beautiful landscapes , this country is truly a hidden gem in the heart of Europe.

This ultimate travel guide will equip you with valuable insights — from essential travel basics to must-see attractions and delicious local cuisine —making your itinerary planning stress-free.

Ready to create unforgettable memories in Bosnia? Let’s dive in!

Key Takeaways

• Understand the visa requirements and general safety tips before traveling to Bosnia and Herzegovina to ensure a hassle-free and enjoyable trip.
• Consider visiting during the summer peak season (June to September) for sunny weather, or in spring or autumn for milder temperatures and fewer crowds.
• Learn basic greetings and phrases in Bosnian as English is not widely spoken outside of major tourist areas . Respect local customs by dressing modestly, especially when visiting religious sites or smaller towns.
• Exchange your currency to Convertible Mark (KM) at banks or designated exchange offices. Bosnia is a budget-friendly destination with an average daily cost of $22.25, including food ($5.48) and accommodation ($12.50).
• Choose from various transportation options such as buses, trains, car rentals, or public transportation to explore different cities in Bosnia easily.

Travel Basics for Bosnia and Herzegovina

Visa requirements are essential to consider before traveling to Bosnia and Herzegovina, and it is important to be aware of general safety tips and areas to avoid during your trip.

Visa requirements

Travel regulations vary widely, making the Visa requirements a critical aspect of planning your visit to Bosnia. Most travelers from North America, Central and South America, as well as Europeans and Irish citizens can enjoy visa-free travel for up to 90 days within a six-month period in Bosnia.

British nationals also receive this same exemption under the country’s immigration rules. To ensure easy entry into Bosnia and Herzegovina, carry a valid passport with you at all times during your trip.

Having thorough understanding of these rules makes sure that your duration of stay is hassle-free and enjoyable without any legal hiccups along the way.

General safety Tips

Prioritizing your safety is paramount while embarking on your Bosnia and Herzegovina adventure.

• Steer clear of off – road exploration , especially abandoned buildings to ensure personal security.
• Always have travel insurance ready for unexpected situations that may arise during your trip.
• Exercise high level of caution while driving, particularly in areas outside major cities.
• Utilize the reliable RAC guide for comprehensive information on road safety in Bosnia and Herzegovina.
• Equip yourself with key details about the country before embarking on your journey, including its history, culture, and environment .
• Be particularly cautious in rural areas where infrastructure could be lacking or neglected.
• Adopt precautionary measures such as keeping emergency contacts handy and sharing your itinerary with someone back home.
• Familiarize yourself with local laws, norms and customs to avoid inadvertent violations.

Areas to avoid

Travelers should be cautious while visiting crowded tourist destinations in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Most incidents of petty crime occur in these areas, so maintain awareness of your possessions at all times.

It’s also important to steer clear from abandoned buildings if you stray off the beaten path; they might harbor potential hazards . Although it’s rare for mishaps to happen, exercising a degree of caution ensures a safe travel experience.

Take note that despite requiring vigilance in certain parts, most of Bosnia and Herzegovina is generally safe for tourists.

Best Time to Visit Bosnia and Herzegovina

The best time to visit Bosnia and Herzegovina depends on the type of experience you want. The country experiences four distinct seasons, with summers being warm and sunny, while winters can be cold and snowy.

Peak tourist times are during the summer months of June to August when the weather is most favorable for outdoor activities and sightseeing. However, visiting in spring or autumn can offer milder temperatures and fewer crowds, making it a great option for those seeking a more relaxed atmosphere.

Seasons and weather

The best time to visit Bosnia and Herzegovina is during the summer peak season from June to September. During this time, you can expect hot and dry weather , perfect for outdoor activities like hiking and exploring the beautiful countryside.

If you prefer milder temperatures, February and March are ideal months to visit as there is more sunshine and clearer days. In winter, Bosnia and Herzegovina experiences snowy winters with snow lasting up to six months in some areas.

However, the winters are generally milder compared to the inland and mountainous regions of the country. So whether you’re looking for sun-soaked adventures or a winter wonderland experience , Bosnia has it all!

Peak tourist times

The best time to visit Bosnia and Herzegovina is during May, June, and early September. These months offer the optimal tourist experience with pleasant weather and fewer crowds . If you prefer a quieter travel experience, February and March are also great months to visit.

However, if you don’t mind the summer crowds, June to September is considered the peak tourist season in Bosnia-Herzegovina. During this time, popular destinations like Sarajevo and Mostar can get quite busy with tourists from all over the world .

To avoid the crowds in Mostar, it’s recommended to visit in May, June, or September when the number of tourists is relatively lower.

Cultural Considerations

Bosnia and Herzegovina has a diverse cultural landscape, with multiple languages spoken and various ethnicities and religions represented.

Language and communication

The official languages of Bosnia are Bosnian, Serbian, and Croatian. These languages are mutually intelligible , which means that speakers of one language can generally understand the others.

However, English is not widely spoken in Bosnia, especially outside of major tourist areas. In Sarajevo, the capital city, you may find more people who understand English in tourist establishments and among younger generations.

It’s a good idea to learn a few basic greetings and phrases in Bosnian to communicate with locals, as English proficiency may be limited in rural areas or smaller towns .

Ethnicity and religion

Bosnia is a country with a rich cultural heritage and diverse population . Ethnicity and religion have played significant roles in shaping the history and politics of Bosnia. The majority of Bosnians are Muslim , and religion often intertwines with ethnicity in this region.

After gaining independence, Bosnia became home to various religious and ethnic groups who came together to form a unique blend of traditions and customs. The influences of both Austro-Hungarian and Ottoman cultures can be seen throughout the country, creating an intriguing fusion of East-meets-West .

Understanding these historical influences can help visitors appreciate the local customs while exploring different regions in Bosnia.

Knowing the dress code in Bosnia and Herzegovina is important to ensure that you respect the local culture and customs. While there is no strict dress code, it is advisable to dress modestly , especially when visiting religious sites or smaller towns.

For female travelers, it’s recommended to cover your shoulders and knees . However, in larger cities like Sarajevo, you can opt for more casual attire during the day. At night and in nightclub settings, more revealing clothes may be acceptable.

When heading to the beach, feel free to wear bikinis as they are accepted at beaches in Bosnia. Just remember to be respectful of cultural norms and always consider your surroundings before choosing your attire.

Currency and Prices

In Bosnia and Herzegovina, the currency is the Convertible Mark (BAM). Money exchange is available at banks and exchange offices. Average prices for food, accommodation, and transportation are affordable compared to other European countries.

Curious to know more about the currency and prices in Bosnia? Keep reading!

Money exchange

Bosnia and Herzegovina operates mostly on a cash-based economy , so it’s important to have enough cash with you when traveling here. The official currency is the convertible mark (KM), and you can exchange your foreign currency for KM at banks or designated exchange offices.

Keep in mind that traveler’s cheques are only accepted at select banks. It’s wise to be aware of the current bank exchange rates and any fees associated with currency conversion. If you need more cash while you’re in Bosnia, there are ATMs available where you can make a cash withdrawal using your travel money card or credit/debit card.

Just remember to check if there are any additional fees for international withdrawals from your bank.

Average prices for food, accommodation, etc.

Bosnia and Herzegovina is known to be a budget-friendly travel destination. The average daily cost for a trip is approximately $22.25.

Specifically, in the capital city Sarajevo, the average food cost slightly increases to 56 KM per day. Counting in other expenses like transportation, sightseeing, and miscellaneous costs, your daily spend could go up. However, with smart planning, it is entirely possible to enjoy your Bosnian vacation without breaking your budget.

Transportation in Bosnia and Herzegovina

Getting around Bosnia and Herzegovina is easy with various transportation options such as buses, trains, and car rentals. Explore the efficient transportation system and discover the convenience of traveling within the country.

Read more about getting around in Bosnia and Herzegovina to make your trip hassle-free.

Getting to Bosnia and Herzegovina

Bosnia and Herzegovina is relatively small and easy to get around , making it a great destination for travelers. Buses are the most convenient mode of transportation between cities in Bosnia and Herzegovina, with regular routes connecting major towns .

If you prefer to travel by train, there are also options available for traveling between cities. Public transportation is easily accessible in popular destinations like Sarajevo and Mostar, allowing visitors to explore these places without any hassle.

For those who want more flexibility and independence, renting a car is another option for getting around Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Transportation options

Bosnia and Herzegovina has various transportation options to help you explore the country easily. Here are some of the ways you can get around:

• Public transportation : Bosnia and Herzegovina has facilities for road, rail, and air transport, allowing for easy movement between cities and towns.
• Highways : The country has five international road routes and 20 state highways , making it convenient to travel by car or bus.
• Railways : The larger cities in Bosnia and Herzegovina are connected by train, providing a comfortable and scenic way to travel within the country.
• Airport : If you prefer air travel, there are airports in major cities like Sarajevo and Mostar, offering connections to other parts of Europe.
• Bus services : Bus services in Bosnia and Herzegovina are improving and can usually get you to your desired destination efficiently.
• Taxi services : Taxis are available in most cities, allowing for convenient transportation within urban areas or for shorter trips.
• Local tours : To visit natural attractions such as waterfalls, taking a local tour or hiring a guide is recommended since public transport may not be available.

Car rentals

Renting a car in Bosnia and Herzegovina is highly recommended for exploring the country’s diverse attractions. With significant distances between destinations and limited public transport options , having a rental car provides convenience and freedom to discover off-the-beaten-track locations that are not well-served by buses or trains.

If you’re flying into Sarajevo Airport, you can easily find car rental services there, allowing you to start your adventure right away. Just remember to obtain an international driving permit before renting a car. in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Don’t miss out on the opportunity to experience the convenience of traveling at your own pace and uncovering hidden gems in this beautiful country.

Taxi services

Official taxis in Bosnia and Herzegovina, especially in Sarajevo and major towns, are a reliable mode of transportation for travelers. These taxis are regulated and have meters to ensure fair pricing.

It’s important to note that taxi drivers from the Republika Srpska region may refuse to drive to certain destinations, so it’s always a good idea to clarify your destination before getting into the taxi.

If you’re looking for recommendations or want to compare prices, Tripadvisor has 137 listings for taxis and shuttles in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

When arriving at the airport in Sarajevo, there are two options for getting into the city: bus or taxi . The bus is generally the cheapest option and provides easy connectivity between the airport and downtown Sarajevo.

However, if you prefer more convenience or have heavy luggage, taking a taxi is also an option. Just keep in mind that it may cost more than taking the bus.

Accommodation Options in Bosnia and Herzegovina

Recommended Hotels, Vacation rentals, and Hostels are available for accommodation in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Recommended Hotels

The Courtyard by Marriott Sarajevo , located near the History Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina, is highly recommended. Guests have praised its excellent service and comfortable rooms.

• The Hotel-Restaurant Kriva Cuprija is another top-rated option. It offers a charming atmosphere, delicious food, and convenient location near the Old Bridge in Mostar.
• Pansion Villa Cardak is also highly rated for its friendly staff, cozy accommodations, and proximity to the historic Stari Grad in Mostar.
• If you prefer staying closer to nature, consider Hotel Plivsko Jezero. It offers stunning lake views and easy access to the beautiful Pliva Waterfalls in Jajce.
• For a unique experience, check out Guesthouse Halvat in Neum. It provides comfortable rooms with sea views and is just steps away from the beach.

Vacation rentals

Looking for affordable accommodations in Bosnia and Herzegovina? Consider vacation rentals! Here are some key facts to know:

• Vacation rentals in Bosnia and Herzegovina start at $36 per night.
• Mostar is a popular destination for vacation rentals in Bosnia and Herzegovina.
• The Ultimate Bosnia Travel Guide provides information on vacation rentals in the country.
• The guide offers tips on planning the perfect visit to Mostar , including vacation rental options.

Hostels and guesthouses

Looking for budget-friendly accommodation options in Bosnia and Herzegovina? Consider staying at hostels and guesthouses . These affordable lodgings provide a great option for travelers on a tight budget. Check out the following options:

• Backpacker hostels : Ideal for solo travelers or those looking to meet fellow adventurers, backpacker hostels offer shared dormitory-style accommodations at inexpensive rates .
• Budget-friendly guesthouses : Offering private rooms at affordable prices, budget-friendly guesthouses are a comfortable and wallet-friendly choice for travelers seeking more privacy.
• Economy lodging : If you prefer a simple yet cozy place to stay, economy lodgings such as bed and breakfasts or small family-run hotels can be a great option.
• Affordable hostels : Similar to backpacker hostels, affordable hostels provide shared accommodations but with added amenities like communal kitchens and social spaces .

Must-Try Bosnian Cuisine

When visiting Bosnia, make sure to indulge in the country’s delicious and unique cuisine. Here are some must-try food and drinks that will tantalize your taste buds:

• Ćevapi : These are small grilled sausages made from a mixture of beef and lamb, served with flatbread. It’s a staple dish in Bosnia and is often enjoyed with onions and sour cream.
• Burek : A popular pastry dish filled with minced meat, cheese, or spinach. It’s crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, making it a perfect snack or breakfast option.
• Pita : A savory pie made with thin layers of phyllo dough filled with meat, cheese, or vegetables. It’s a delicious and filling dish that you can find in most cafes and bakeries. Tip: Try in the morning when hot with a yoghurt.
• Bosnian Coffee : Don’t miss out on the traditional Bosnian coffee experience. Served in a small copper pot called a džezva, it’s a strong and aromatic coffee that is enjoyed slowly.
• Krempita : A mouth-watering custard slice dessert made with crispy filo pastry and creamy vanilla custard filling. It’s a sweet treat that will satisfy your sweet tooth.
• Bosanski lonac : A hearty meat stew cooked with a variety of meats such as beef, lamb, and chicken, along with vegetables. It’s slow-cooked to perfection and is bursting with flavors.
• Kajmak : A creamy dairy spread made from slow-cooked milk. It’s often enjoyed with bread or as a topping on traditional dishes.
• Baklava : A sweet pastry made with layers of phyllo dough, nuts, honey, and syrup. It’s a rich and indulgent dessert that will leave you wanting more.
• Sarma : Stuffed cabbage rolls filled with a mixture of rice and meat. It’s a comforting and flavorful dish that is often served during special occasions.
• Tufahija : A traditional Bosnian dessert made with poached apples stuffed with walnuts, sugar, and cinnamon, topped with whipped cream. It’s a refreshing and sweet treat to end your meal.
• Sarajevsko Pivo : Beer lovers will appreciate the locally brewed Sarajevsko Pivo. This light, refreshing lager pairs well with the flavors of Bosnian cuisine.

Immerse yourself in the culinary delights of Bosnia and discover the rich flavors and traditions of the country’s food and drinks. Don’t miss the opportunity to try these must-try dishes during your visit. Bon appétit!

Recommended restaurants

Here are some recommended restaurants in Bosnia and Herzegovina:

• Dveri – Known for its cozy atmosphere and delicious Bosnian cuisine , Dveri is a must-visit restaurant in Sarajevo.
• Mala Kuhinja – If you’re looking for traditional Bosnian dishes with a modern twist , Mala Kuhinja is the place to go.
• Ćevabdžinica Željo – This popular eatery specializes in cevapi, a traditional Bosnian dish made of grilled minced meat served with pita bread, onions, and sour cream.
• Inat Kuća – Located in Sarajevo’s Old Town, Inat Kuća offers a mix of Bosnian and international dishes along with stunning views of the city.
• Restaurant Stari Grad – Situated in Mostar’s picturesque Old Town, this restaurant serves up authentic Bosnian cuisine with a focus on fresh local ingredients .

Natural and Outdoor Attractions

Explore Bosnia and Herzegovina’s breathtaking national parks, stunning waterfalls, and thrilling outdoor activities. From the pristine beauty of Plitvice Lakes to adrenaline-pumping white-water rafting on the Neretva River, there is something for everyone.

Don’t miss out on experiencing the natural wonders of this incredible country! Read more to discover all the outdoor adventures waiting for you in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

National parks

Bosnia and Herzegovina is blessed with three stunning national parks: Sutjeska National Park, Kozara National Park, and Una National Park . These natural wonders offer breathtaking landscapes and unique experiences for nature enthusiasts.

One of the highlights is Una National Park, which boasts 16 lakes, 2 rivers, and numerous waterfalls and cascades. It’s a haven for outdoor activities such as hiking, biking, kayaking, and rafting.

If you’re looking to immerse yourself in the beauty of nature while visiting Bosnia and Herzegovina, these national parks are definitely worth exploring.

Bosnia and Herzegovina is home to some incredible natural attractions, including beautiful waterfalls. One of the must-see waterfalls in the country is the Kravice Waterfalls , located on the Trebižat River .

With a height of approximately 25 meters , these falls are often compared to a mini-Niagara Falls . They are truly a sight to behold! But don’t stop there – Bosnia and Herzegovina boasts several other stunning waterfalls such as Pliva Waterfall , Krupa Water Falls , Strbacki Buk, Bliha Waterfall, Skakavac and Tra le.

Whether you’re an avid nature lover or simply want to experience the breathtaking beauty of these cascades while exploring Bosnia, visiting these waterfalls should definitely be on your travel itinerary.

Rafting and outdoor activities

Bosnia Herzegovina offers thrilling rafting experiences for thrill seekers and outdoor enthusiasts. Here are some popular outdoor activities in Bosnia Herzegovina:

• White water rafting : Experience the adrenaline rush as you navigate through the crystal clear waters of rivers like Una, Neretva, and Tara.
• Skiing : Hit the slopes in one of Bosnia’s ski resorts like Jahorina and Bjelašnica during the winter months for a thrilling skiing adventure.
• Mountain hiking : Explore the stunning landscapes and untouched nature by embarking on hiking trails in places like Sutjeska National Park and Vlašić Mountain.
• Ethnic village exploration : Immerse yourself in Bosnian culture by visiting traditional villages like Lukomir and Počitelj, where you can learn about local customs and traditions.
• Cycling : Discover the beauty of Bosnia on two wheels by cycling through scenic routes such as the Via Dinarica trail or around Sarajevo’s Olympic Mountains.

Must-See Attractions in Sarajevo

Explore the rich history and cultural heritage of Sarajevo through its must-see attractions, including historical sites, museums, and cultural attractions.

Museums and Cultural attractions

Immerse yourself in Sarajevo’s rich history and vibrant cultural scene with a visit to its must-see museums and cultural attractions. Discover the city’s fascinating past and diverse heritage through these top sites:

• Gallery 11/07/95 – Commemorating the victims of the Siege of Sarajevo , this gallery showcases powerful exhibits documenting the devastating events of the Bosnian War.
• War Tunnel Museum – Step back in time and explore the underground tunnel that provided a lifeline for residents during the siege . Learn about the city’s resilience and survival strategies.
• National Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina – Delve into the country’s art, archaeology, and history at this renowned museum. Marvel at ancient artifacts and gain insights into Bosnia’s cultural heritage.
• Historical Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina – Trace Sarajevo’s timeline from prehistoric times to modern-day through a diverse collection of exhibits, including relics from Ottoman rule and World War II .
• Gazi Husrev-bey Mosque – A symbol of Islamic culture, this 16th-century mosque is one of Sarajevo’s most important religious landmarks. Take in its stunning architecture and soak up the spiritual atmosphere.
• Jewish Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina – Learn about Sarajevo’s Jewish community and their contributions to the city’s history. Explore exhibitions on Sephardic culture, Jewish life during WWII, and interfaith dialogue.
• Latin Bridge – This iconic bridge holds significant historical importance as it was where Archduke Franz Ferdinand was assassinated, igniting World War I. Admire its elegant design while contemplating its profound impact on global history.
• Svrzo House – Step inside this well-preserved Ottoman-era house to experience traditional Bosnian architecture and lifestyle from centuries ago.
• Ars Aevi Museum of Contemporary Art – Indulge your artistic side at this modern art museum, which features a unique collection of contemporary works by renowned international artists.
• Eternal Flame – Visit the Eternal Flame monument in the city center, honoring fallen soldiers and symbolizing Sarajevo’s resilience in the face of adversity.

Exploring Mostar and its Medieval Charm

Explore the enchanting medieval charm of Mostar with its iconic Old Bridge (Stari Most) and picturesque Old Town (Stari Grad).

Old bridge (Stari Most)

The Old Bridge (Stari Most) in Mostar is a historical bridge that was constructed during the 16th century . Designed by Mimar Hayruddin, it showcases the beautiful Balkan Islamic architecture.

This iconic landmark holds immense medieval significance and serves as a cultural heritage site for Bosnia. The Old Bridge is considered a symbol of Mostar and is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site .

Although it was destroyed during the Bosnian War, it has been meticulously reconstructed to its original design through architectural restoration efforts. Today, visitors can admire this stunning bridge, which represents resilience and peace in the face of conflict.

Old Town (Stari Grad)

Mostar’s Old Town, known as Stari Grad , is a captivating historic district nestled on the banks of the Neretva River. It boasts traditional Turkish architecture and is best known for its iconic landmark – the Old Bridge, or Stari Most .

This bridge holds great cultural significance and has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site . When you wander through the charming streets of the Old Town, you’ll be transported back in time with its centuries-old buildings and winding cobblestone pathways .

The vibrant atmosphere, coupled with its rich history and stunning architecture, makes Mostar’s Old Town an absolute must-visit when exploring Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Discovering the Natural Beauty of Jajce and Pliva Waterfalls

Explore the stunning natural beauty of Jajce and Pliva Waterfalls, including the impressive Jajce Fortress and the picturesque Pliva Lakes and Watermills.

Jajce Fortress

The 13th-century Jajce Fortress is a must-see historic site in the town of Jajce, Bosnia and Herzegovina. From here, you can enjoy breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding area, including the town itself and the magnificent waterfalls.

The fortress is well-preserved, with impressive walls, towers, and gates that transport you back in time. Inside, you’ll find fascinating attractions such as a watermill and catacombs .

If you’re a photography enthusiast, this place is perfect for capturing stunning views and architectural details. Don’t miss out on exploring this incredible piece of history during your visit to Bosnia.

Pliva Lakes and Watermills

Pliva Lakes and Watermills are a must-visit destination for nature enthusiasts in central Bosnia and Herzegovina. These natural wonders offer breathtaking beauty with their pristine waters and picturesque surroundings .

The Great and Small Pliva Lakes provide a serene escape where visitors can relax, swim or go boating. Nearby is the town of Jajce, known for its historical significance and stunning landscapes.

One of the main attractions here is the Pliva Waterfall , which cascades down an impressive 22 meters right in the city center . What makes it even more unique is that it’s the only waterfall in the world situated within a city center.

Diving into the History of Srebrenica and the Potočari Memorial Site

Explore the tragic history of Srebrenica and pay tribute at the Potočari Memorial Site, which serves as a solemn reminder of the genocide that took place here during the Balkan War.

Srebrenica Genocide Memorial Center

The Srebrenica Genocide Memorial Center is a deeply significant historical site in Bosnia. It was established in October 2000 and is located at the site of the Srebrenica massacre , which took place during the Bosnian War.

The memorial center features a cemetery where victims of the genocide are buried, and it also includes exhibits and imagery related to the history of Srebrenica and the genocide. What makes visiting this memorial even more powerful is that guided tours are often led by survivors, providing visitors with firsthand accounts and a deeper understanding of this tragic event.

At the memorial, you will see the names of 6,504 victims carved into stone plaques as a haunting reminder of their lives lost.

Srebrenica-Potočari Memorial and Cemetery

The Srebrenica-Potočari Memorial and Cemetery , located in the village of Potočari , is a significant site for understanding the history of Bosnia. It is officially known as the Srebrenica–Potočari Memorial and Cemetery for the Victims of the 1995 Genocide .

This memorial center consists of three areas: the Memorial, the Cemetery, and the Museum . The on-site cemetery features a memorial wall with the names of all 8,372 victims engraved .

Additionally, it provides one of the largest open-air Muslim prayer spaces . Visiting this physical memorial allows us to remember and honor those who lost their lives during this tragedy , reflecting on its historical significance in Bosnia’s past.

Coastal Escape to Neum

Enjoy a relaxing coastal getaway in Neum, where you can soak up the sun on beautiful beaches, indulge in delicious local seafood cuisine, and explore nearby islands and towns through exciting excursions.

Beaches and water activities

Neum offers a range of beaches and water activities for visitors to enjoy. The town’s beaches stretch along almost 6 km of coastline and have crystal clear waters . Neum is considered Europe’s biggest coastal secret, a hidden gem for beach lovers. Here are some beach activities you can enjoy in Neum:

• Swimming in the refreshing waters
• Sunbathing on the sandy beaches
• Trying out various water sports
• Exploring the shoreline on a leisurely walk
• Relaxing and enjoying the scenic coastal views

Local seafood cuisine

Neum, a coastal town in Bosnia and Herzegovina, offers a delightful culinary fusion of Mediterranean and Balkan flavors . When it comes to food, Neum is renowned for its seafood delicacies and grilled specialties.

Being situated on the Adriatic Sea, Neum provides an abundance of fresh seafood options that are sure to satisfy any seafood lover’s palate. One must-try restaurant is Restoran Laguna, known for serving the best local seafood cuisine in town.

The seafood dishes in Neum are highly regarded for their honesty and fair prices, ensuring you get a true taste of the sea with every bite. So if you’re visiting Neum, make sure to indulge in their mouthwatering coastal cuisine and experience the Mediterranean influence on Bosnian gastronomy firsthand.

Excursions to nearby islands and towns

Neum, a town in Bosnia and Herzegovina, offers exciting excursions to nearby islands and towns. Here are some must-visit destinations for those looking to explore beyond Neum:

• Mljet Island : Explore the stunning Mljet Island and its lush National Park. Experience the untouched nature, picturesque landscapes, and the famous saltwater lakes of Veliko and Malo Jezero.
• Korčula Island : Visit the charming island of Korčula, known for its medieval architecture, vineyards, and olive groves. Don’t miss the opportunity to walk along Marco Polo’s supposed birthplace.
• Dubrovnik : Cross the border into Croatia and discover the magnificent city of Dubrovnik. Explore its ancient walls, historic Old Town, breathtaking views from Mount Srđ, and soak up the vibrant atmosphere.
• Ston : Take a short trip to Ston, famous for its impressive defensive walls—the second-longest in the world—and delicious oysters. Walk along these ancient fortifications or enjoy fresh seafood delicacies by the coast.
• Blagaj : Head inland to Blagaj and visit the enchanting Dervish monastery nestled next to a crystal clear river spring. Marvel at its unique blend of Ottoman architecture and natural beauty.
• Pocitelj : Discover the well-preserved medieval village of Pocitelj with its picturesque stone houses and enchanting hilltop fortress. Immerse yourself in centuries-old history as you wander through this captivating place.
• Mostar : While not an island or town per se, a day trip to Mostar is a must when visiting Neum. Experience the diverse culture as you admire the iconic Stari Most bridge and explore the atmospheric Old Town.

Plan your ultimate adventure to Bosnia and Herzegovina with “The Ultimate Bosnia Travel Guide: Tips, Itineraries, And Must-See Attractions.” Discover the country’s rich cultural heritage , stunning landscapes , and delicious cuisine .

Whether you’re exploring historical sites in Sarajevo or diving into the natural beauty of Jajce and Pliva Waterfalls , this guide has everything you need for an unforgettable trip.

Get ready for an immersive experience in a country that offers something for everyone.

1. What are some must-see attractions in Bosnia?

Some must-see attractions in Bosnia include the historic cities of Sarajevo and Mostar, the stunning Kravica Waterfalls, and the picturesque village of Blagaj.

2. How many days should I plan for my trip to Bosnia?

To fully explore the major attractions in Bosnia, it is recommended to plan a trip of at least 7-10 days.

3. Are there any safety concerns when traveling to Bosnia?

While overall considered safe for travelers, it’s always important to exercise caution and be aware of your surroundings. Keep an eye on local news updates and follow any travel advisories from your home country.

4. Do I need a visa to enter Bosnia as a tourist?

Tourists from many countries can enter Bosnia without a visa for stays up to 90 days. However, it’s best to check with the embassy or consulate before planning your trip.

5. Can you recommend any sample itineraries for exploring Bosnia?

Sure! Here are two sample itineraries:

– A 7-day itinerary could include visiting Sarajevo, Mostar, Jajce waterfall, Kravica Waterfalls, and exploring some national parks.

– A 10-day itinerary could include adding visits to places like Travnik, Visoko (Pyramids), Banja Luka or Trebinje along with Sarajevo and Mostar.

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Best of Bosnia and Herzegovina: What to See and Do

Home » Blog » Europe » Bosnia and Herzegovina » Best of Bosnia and Herzegovina: What to See and Do

Bosnia and Herzegovina is a gem in Eastern Europe that is often looked over. There are so many things to do in Bosnia and Herzegovina, from exploring historic Sarajevo to the countryside of Mostar. And of course you can’t miss the Stari Most, one of the most famous bridges in Europe. We’re sharing our top travel tips that make Bosnia and Herzegovina the perfect destination for any visitor.

The one thing that sticks out in my mind when I think of traveling in Bosnia and Herzegovina is the people. They’re kind, welcoming, sincere and strong. And it’s unimaginable how their country got torn apart during the not-so-distant Yugoslav Wars.

The city of Sarajevo was at the edge of complete and utter destruction in the 1990’s. But some 20 years later, this Bosnian capital has been largely restored and is a fascinating stop on any Eastern European itinerary.

The mixture of Ottoman, Yugoslavian and Austro-Hungarian architecture is a combination you won’t see anywhere else in the world, and the still-visible bullet holes dotting the city are harsh reminders of the horrors the Bosnian people endured just over two decades ago.

Where to Travel in Bosnia and Herzegovina

Things To Do in Sarajevo

1. free walking tour of sarajevo.

As with most new cities we traveled to in Europe, we took the free walking tour of Sarajevo that was organized though our hostel ( Hostel Franz Ferdinand ).

This tour was quite unique because the guide actually lived in Sarajevo throughout the war. She told us stories of running through the streets and praying that you would not get shot by a sniper. 

2. See the spot of the “shot heard around the world”

The tour took us through the main walking street that stretches along the center of the city. The guide brought us to the exact corner where Franz Ferdinand, the archduke of Austria, was assassinated, forever known as the “shot heard around the world” and thus starting the first World War.  

3. Stroll between cultures

As you walk along the walking street, you can travel from Christan area around the Sarcred Heart Cathedral to the Muslim quarter all within half a kilometer.  

4. Visit Sarajevo’s Abandoned Bobsled Track & Learn the History of the City

The bobsled track is surely an Instagram worthy spot, but it is just one stop on the Under the Siege tour run by Hostel Franz Ferdinand. (Note: There are a few tours like this, so you don’t have to go through the Ferdinand Hostel). 

This day-long tour takes you to specific locations around town that were affected by the war, including the snipers perch and a portion of the tunnel that allowed citizens to escape under the airport.

It is utterly fascinating to see these important parts of history and to learn about this country’s troubled past.

One of the major highlights of the tour is visiting the abandoned (and graffitied) bobsled track that was used in the 1984 Sarajevo Winter Olympics . And if you don’t want to do the whole tour, you can actually hike to the Sarajevo bobsled track independently.

5. Srebrenica Genocide Museum in Sarajevo

If you only have a day in Sarajevo, we would highly recommend visiting the Srebrenica Genocide Museum called Gallery 11/07/95 . It walks you through the day where more than 8,000 Muslim Bosniaks were killed, mainly men and boys in the small town of Srebrenica during the Bosnian War in 1995.

It’s a very somber experience, but it tells the history of the country that not many people outside of Bosnia know about.

It reminded us about the time we visited the Killing Fields in Cambodia  or Auschwitz Concentration Camp . Both are hard histories to learn, but so necessary so humankind does not repeat these horrors. 

6. View of the City

Our favorite sunset viewpoint of Sarajevo is east of the city, up on the Yellow Bastion lookout. You could even bring a picnic dinner and watch the sunset from one of the many picnic tables.

Sarajevo was one of our favorite cities in Bosnia. If need more reasons to visit Sarajevo , our friend David has a whole article about it.

Hotels in Sarajevo

Couple Stay/Mid-range: Old Town Hotel – In the center of old town, rave reviews perfect for couples. 

Budget Friendly/Social Atmosphere:  Hostel Franz Ferdinand – great beds, good tours, very helpful staff. We stayed here and loved it. 

Bonus adventure near Sarajevo

If you want to get your adrenaline pumping, check out this article about whitewater rafting on the Tara River Canyon , located 90 km (56 miles) from Sarajevo. 

Traveling from Sarajevo to Mostar

Trip from Sarajevo to Mostar is beautiful. We took a bus so we could not stop and get out, but if you have time hire a car. That way you can stop and take pictures of the Lake Jablanica valley. None of our pictures do it justice because we have the bus window in the reflection, but it is GORGEOUS — trust us. Or Google-image it! 

If you are traveling through Eastern Europe by car, be sure to check out this road trip through the Balkans .

We actually heard about this town before we even thought of going to Eastern Europe. One of our friends we met traveling told us about this tour that we HAD to go on. In fact, when we took the tour, nearly everyone had heard of it from a friend or family member who persuaded them to sign up. 

It’s one of those tips travelers pass down, and once you’ve been on this tour, you feel the need to tell others about it. So consider yourself in on the secret. 

Things To Do in Mostar

1. bata’s crazy tour.

The tour is called Bata’s Crazy Tour and is guided by (you guessed it) Bata. And yes he is crazy and he would be the first to tell you. This tour is an entire day and is part sightseeing, part history lesson, part adventure and part food tasting.

2. Splash around in Kravice Waterfalls

Swim under the rushing Kravice Waterfalls on the tour away from Mostar. There is a restaurant onsite, so if you get hungry you can pick up a bite to eat (and if you’re part of the tour, they provide a traditional (meat-heavy) lunch).

3. Explore the medieval town of Pocitelj

The next stop on the tour was the tiny old medieval town of Pocitelj. We got to climb up the watchtower (picture above) and gaze from the archer’s platform. It was a nice stop to have Bata explain the history of this people. After this we visited a local woman’s house to sip Bosnian coffee, which was a pretty fun experience. 

4. Visit the Blagaj Dervish House Monastery

The last stop of our tour was to the Blagaj Dervish House Monastery at the foot of a cave. Legend has it, that naturalist don’t know the source of the river that flows beside the monastery. 

We visited all these spots in one day and got to know our van-mates pretty well. Oh, and sprinkle in a heavy dose of history and witty banter from Bata for a 10-hour experience you won’t soon forget.

Even if you were only to spend one day in Bosnia, this tour would give you a wonderful taste of the country and its people. 

Note: There are a few of these tours run by guesthouses in Mostar. Each has a cult following, and everyone swears the one they took is the best. Honestly, after talking to a few other travelers who did other tours, it seems that in general they are pretty similar, with a few minor differences here and there.

So whether you take your tour from Bata’s Crazy Tour from Majdas Hostel , Hostel Nina’s day tour, or some other day tour in Mostar, you will see most of the same things and will learn a ton about this country.

5. Walk across the Old Bridge (Stari Most)

Besides the crazy tour, the main attraction of Mostar is the Old Bridge ( Stari Most ). Once destroyed in the war, and built again to the same beauty, the Stari Most is one of the most iconic images in all of Eastern Europe.

Highly symbolic, the bridge literally is uniting two sides of the country. Walk across the bridge to get a view of the 24 meter (80 foot) drop to the water, and then head down to the river side and watch as jumpers collect money to put on a show for everyone as they dive into the river. 

6. Tip-toe through the Sniper’s Tower

Another spot to check out is an abandoned bank building that was used as a Sniper’s Tower during the war. Today, it is relatively safe to walk in, you just have to avoid broken bottles and cracked stairs. It’s a hot spot for street artist to tag and create incredible, thought provoking art.

Hotels in Mostar

Budget Friendly/Social Atmosphere: Hostel Majdas – Wonderful staff, great common areas, and awesome days tours. We stayed here and could not recommend it highly enough if you want to meet the kindest host and have a very social atmosphere.

Couple Stay/Mid-range:  Apartments Solis  – If you prefer more privacy, but are still traveling on a budget, these beautifully decorated, spacious apartments are an incredible value (averaging $15-18 per person), and they’re located close to city center. 

Were these already booked, or are you still looking for a place to stay? Check out this list of hotels in Mostar .

Foods to Try in Bosnia and Herzegovina

Bosnian coffee and cakes – similar to Turkish coffee, but be sure to drink it the correct way of eating the cube of sugar and then sipping the coffee. We went to Rahatlook in Sarajevo based off a recommendation from our hostel and it was delicious. But the best one is supposed to be at Cajdzinica Dzirlo-Tea House .

Burek – Flakey meat pastry (try Pekara Imaret in Sarajevo)

Cevapi – Sausage fingers served with onions, spicy sauce all in a pita

Dolma – fermented vegetables stuffed with rice and meat

How to travel around Bosnia and Herzegovina

The best way to get around is on a bus. The rail infrastructure is not there as it is in Western Europe, but the buses are fairly cheap and comfortable. We really liked Flixbus when traveling around Bosnia. You could also look into ride sharing programs like BlaBlaCar .

10 Items to Pack for Traveling in Bosnia and Herzegovina

Durable Backpack – We carry 40 liter backpacks everywhere we go. Both of our big bags are made by Deuter and we love them.

Packing Cubes – A backpacking staple, these cubes help keep your clothes organized in your bag.

Microfiber Towel – Always good to carry around a fast drying microfiber towel just in case your hotel/hostel doesn’t provide them.

Portable Battery Pack – It’s the worst when you arrive to a new city and your phone is dead. Keep it charged with an Anker Battery Pack, this one can charge your phone up to 7 times.

Bamboo Sunglasses – Tree Tribe polarized sunglasses not only look great, but for every purchase they plant 10 trees.

Steripen – Say goodbye to bottled water. You can sterilize your water right out of the tap with this UV light. We have used ours for years and have never gotten sick off the water.

Kindle Paperwhite – Download all your travel guidebooks onto your Kindle. You no longer have to carry around heavy books that take up space in your bag, and the Paperwhite verison lights up in the dark.

Collapsible Cups – If you’re like us, you will be drinking wine in Europe and these come in handy for picnic lunches.

Lush Solid Shampoo bar – No more worrying about liquid limits. One all-natural bar will last me up to 3 months and they smell great!

GoPro – One of the best ways to capture your travels. They are lightweight, take great pictures and video and they are waterproof up to 10 meters without a case!

Before you book your trip, think about this:

Travel insurance.

We never travel without travel insurance. It’s never fun to think about losing your stuff or the possibility of a delayed flight, missing a connection, or heaven forbid you get injured while traveling. It’s best to know that you’ll be covered if anything goes wrong.

We have a whole article dedicated to figuring out the best travel insurance for you , but one company we really like is World Nomads. Get a quote in a couple minutes by filling out your information below:

European Train Travel

How are you traveling around Eastern Europe? One way to travel around Europe is by train and the best way to save money on trains is to buy Eurail Pass.

Now to be honest, we didn’t take any trains in Bosnia and Herzegovina because the buses and ride-sharing were cheaper. However, if you are traveling to multiple countries fairly quickly or traveling to Western Europe, purchasing a train pass might be your cheapest bet. Check out the Eurail Pass prices here.

European Air Travel

Another great thing about traveling in Europe is airfare is so much cheaper than in North America. One of our favorite sites to book flight is Skyscanner.

It’s so easy to use and we found some our cheapest flights using their “Show Whole Month” feature, where you can select your route and it tells you the cheapest days of the month to fly.

Want more information on Eastern Europe?

We have tons of resources for you on popular and off-the-beaten-path destinations in the region. Check out the 19 places to visit in Eastern Europe you absolutely cannot miss and read some of our favorite articles below. 

A Completely Honest Travel Guide to Croatia

Best Things to Do in Montenegro (+ Where to Go!)

An Adventurous Travel Guide to Slovenia

Why You Should Visit Eastern Europe Right Now!

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We want to hear from you!

Have you traveled to Bosnia and Herzegovina? Tell us about your additional travel tips in the comments.

Are you planning a trip there now? Let us know if you have any questions in the comments below. We’re happy to answer them.

Comments (4) on “ Best of Bosnia and Herzegovina: What to See and Do ”

What a fantastic article! Thanks for sharing all this useful infos!

The Amazing Bucket List, I planed a trip to Bosnia and Herzegovina on last year and enjoyed lots of sightseeing. Thanks for informative article.

It’s great that you share your experience. I am a novice traveler, and for me your blog is an aid in planning my trip. Thanks!

What an interesting article. If you are looking for a place to relax with your family, than Pogradec in Albania is the city for you. A walk or a swim by the Ohrid lake, a dinner in one of the many traditional restaurants are the perfect way to enjoy a quiet and a nice weekend getaway

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The perfect road trip through Bosnia: a 5-day itinerary

Bosnia is an incredible and diverse country – and the best way to explore it fully is by doing a road trip. During our latest Balkan adventure, we have crafted the  perfect 5-day road trip itinerary  through Bosnia, with the ideal balance of city hopping and nature sites.

In this post, we will share it all with you, along with additional tips on other places you can visit if you have some extra time on your hands.

PS:  This Bosnia itinerary fits perfectly if you will be traveling by car, but you may need to adjust the schedule if you will be traveling with the public transport system.

Bosnia road trip itinerary – Day 1 & 2: Sarajevo

If you really want to get to know Bosnia, there is no better place to  start your road trip than Sarajevo . 

Sarajevo is one of our favorite cities in the Balkan region because it is so lively. The city breathes history and culture. It is the city where the  East and West meet , resulting in a unique mix of cultures.

There are many other websites sharing travel itineraries through Bosnia that recommend staying in Sarajevo for one day only, but that is a mistake. Sarajevo is quite a large city and there is a lot to see. We recommend spending at least 2 days in town to be able to visit the most important sites (in fact, even if you stay longer, you will not run out of things to see and do).

Some of the most important things to see in Sarajevo are:

• Sarajevo’s Old Town and the Baščaršija region
• Sebilj and the Bazaar
• Gazi Husrev Bey Mosque
• The Sarajevo Tunnel Museum
• Latin Bridge
• Yellow Fortress & the Martyrs’ Cemetery Kovači
• Sarajevo Brewery

Bosnia road trip itinerary – Day 3: Mostar

The next destination for this Bosnia road trip is Mostar, but getting there is also part of the fun. The  drive from Sarajevo to Mostar  is one of the most beautiful in the country. You will be driving by the river and through the mountains, having some amazing landscapes along the way.

If you have time, you can make a stop at  Lake Jablanica  and at the  Neretva Bridge  along the way.

You should be arriving in Mostar just before lunchtime, which gives you almost the entire day to explore the city. Unlike Sarajevo, Mostar is small and one day is enough to visit its most important sites.

When most people think of Mostar, they get the image of the Old Bridge, but Mostar is much more than this unique landmark. Don’t get me wrong, Mostar’s Old Bridge is indeed impressive, but the entire Old Town has such a unique character that it would be a pity to not mention it.

We recommend  getting accommodation in Mostar  where you can stay for 3 nights, as the destinations recommended on the next day of the Bosnia road trip itinerary are located close by and can be explored in a day trip.

Bosnia road trip itinerary – Day 4: Kravice Waterfalls & Blagaj

Next on the list of this 5-day Bosnia itinerary is one of my favorite natural sites in the country:  the Kravice Waterfalls .

The Kravice Waterfalls are located a short drive away from Mostar. We recommend heading there in the morning so you can enjoy the place before it gets too crowded (trust me, in the summer, it does get very busy). The waterfalls are quite impressive and you can spend a few hours here swimming, sunbathing and just admiring nature.

After spending the first part of the day at Kravice, you can make your way to Blagaj which is another great site on the outskirts of Mostar.

The  Blagaj Monastery  is a special place. It is built in a natural cave, next to the spring of the Buna River. The monastery is still operational, but you can visit it outside of events or prayers because it works as a museum.

Once you have explored both places, it’s time to make your way back to Mostar and enjoy dinner in town.

Bosnia road trip itinerary – Day 5: Pocitelj & Medjugorje

To wrap up this Bosnia road trip itinerary, we recommend visiting two cities that are located close to Mostar: Pocitelj and Medjugorje.

Pocitelj is a very picturesque medieval town located on a hill, with its most important landmark being the Old Town and citadel. It is worth taking the time to walk around its narrow streets and take some pictures.

Medjugorje is another popular destination in Bosnia and Herzegovina because of its religious importance. It is believed that Virgin Mary appeared here, so the place has become a pilgrimage site for many people.

We hope you have enjoyed this 5-day road trip itinerary through Bosnia. If you follow our recommendations on this post, you will have visited some of the most important and beautiful sites in the country. But Bosnia has so much more to offer that we simply could not fit in this itinerary alone.

Continue reading for additional tips on places to visit if you will have more days.

Places to visit in Bosnia if you will be staying longer than 5 days

If you will have more than 5 days for your road trip to Bosnia, here are some places you can add to your itinerary:

• Jajce and the Pliva waterfall
• Una National Park
• Rakitnica Canyon

Renting a car in Bosnia for your road trip

We did the Bosnia road trip in our own car because we live in Slovenia and it was only a short distance to go. If you will be coming from further away and cannot do it in your own vehicle, then  renting a car is the next best option  for your trip.

If you will be arriving at one of  Bosnia’s international airports , the most practical thing to do is rent the car directly at the airport. All the international airports in Bosnia have rental car companies in the terminal.

We always use  Discover Cars  for renting when we travel abroad.

Read also:   All you need to know before renting a car in Bosnia

Need to rent a car for your trip? Get a quote here!

How is it to drive in Bosnia?

Driving in Bosnia and Herzegovina can have quite a bad reputation when looking at forums online, but it is not as scary as people make it seem. In Bosnia, there are very few highways and toll roads – most of the time during your road trip, you will be driving on small local roads. We recommend sticking to the main paths as, in most cases, these roads are in good condition because of the volume of daily drivers.

The “secondary” roads or alternative paths can end up in local roads that have quite low conditions, with a lot of holes and not good signaling.

The most important thing to do is  drive slowly and with caution . Make sure you follow the driving rules (especially the speed limits) and you should have no problems.

Read more about  how it is to drive in Bosnia as a foreigner.

What to know before traveling to Bosnia and Herzegovina

Here is some basic information that will help your road trip to Bosnia:

The official currency in Bosnia is the  Bosnian Marka (KM) , which is approximately 2:1 with the Euro. Make sure you always carry cash with you. Not all establishments let you pay with a card, so it is good to make sure you always have some cash with you.

In fact, we would even go a step further and recommend that you always have small bills with you when driving around Bosnia in case you are pulled over.

If you are planning to go on any hikes, whether in the National Parks or outside, don’t leave the marked paths. There are quite some places in the country that are not entirely cleared of landmines.

Since Bosnia is not part of the EU, your European mobile phone will not work. We recommend  getting a local SIM card  or  buying an eSIM  for your trip. See our guide on the  best SIM cards in Bosnia .

We found that most restaurants and public places had wifi available for free, which was quite helpful.

Bosnia is not part of the EU or the Schengen Area. Therefore, they have their own set of rules about which nationalities require a visa, so you will have to check for your own case.

• EU nationals do not need a visa to travel to Bosnia (up to 30 days).
• American citizens do not need a visa for traveling to Bosnia (up to 90 days).

Bosnia has three official languages:  Bosnian, Serbian, and Croatian . For this reason, you will see that most signs are written in two different ways: with Latin and Cyrillic alphabets.

Even though I speak Bosnian fluently, Fe and her family don’t and they said that it was quite ok to travel through Bosnia speaking only English. We followed this exact road trip itinerary for our Bosnia trip, which means that we were sticking to the most visited towns. In those places, most people in restaurants and hotels, etc., spoke at least basic English so they always managed to communicate.

A road trip through Bosnia and Herzegovina is an unforgettable experience. We hope this guide has helped you with ideas on the best places to visit during your 5-day Bosnia road trip.  Enjoy your time in Bosnia!

Organizing your trip

To help you plan your trip to Bosnia, we have put together our favorite planning resources: 

• Flights : Get affordable flights to Bosnia on  Skyscanner.com . 
• Travel insurance : Make sure you are protected during your trip. We use  VisitorsCoverage  whenever we are traveling abroad. 
• Renting a car : We always use  Discover Cars  to get the best car deals. 
• Accommodation : Find the best hotels and apartments on  Booking.com . 
• Activities : Get fun ideas of what to do and buy unique activities with  Get Your Guide.
• SIM Card : Stay connected during your trip with  Airalo.

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links. This means that we get a small commission from any purchase you make, at no additional cost to you!

Edin (Edo for friends like you) is the Slovenian half of Mauka. Even though Edo was born in Novo Mesto (Slovenia), he has Bosnian origins and has spent most of his life exploring the Balkan Region. Now, with Fernanda, he has expanded his travel borders to explore more of Europe, South America, and the rest of the world. He is the technical master behind the blog, but he also adventures as a writer when it comes to giving tips about destinations he is passionate about.

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After reading this article, I am quite hesistant to drive to Bosnia..we were going to enter from Croatia to Banja Luka to Sarajevo to Mostar then out thru Trebinje to Dubrovnik…after you wrote this article is there anything else you would like to add? we really appreciate any advice you can offer! thank you!

Hi Victoria, the itinerary you wrote seems great, and I believe you will have a wonderful time. I wouldn’t worry too much about driving in Bosnia, the biggest issue I see is that there are not many highways, and driving takes some time, but as far as you follow the rules (most importantly the speed limit) you shouldn’t have any issues.

The public transport in Bosnia is not the best, so for example the bus from Banja Luka to Sarajevo will take you around 5 hours, and will cost around 11-19€ (depending on the company), while the car is going to take you around 3 hours. Also, you gain flexibility when going with a car, as you can make stops on the way – and the road from Sarajevo to Mostar is amazing for that!

So, all in all, as long as you follow the driving rules you should be good to go. Also, you can check more tips for driving in Bosnia here.

Have a great trip, Edo

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Balkans Itinerary For 2-8 Weeks (No Car Needed)

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This post may contain affiliate links to things like tours, hotels, Amazon associates and products. These help me earn a small commission at no additional charge to you.

So, you’re visiting the Balkans? I recently took this exact Balkan itinerary which took me around 2 months. Whether or not you have time for the whole thing, I hope this will give you a good idea of where to go, how to get around and how long to spend in each location. Before we start, I’ll define the countries I’ll be talking about:

• Bosnia & Herzegovina
• Note – countries like Romania , Slovenia , Turkey and Greece are also often included in the Balkans definition but I’m not including them in this particular itinerary.

BALKANS ESSENTIALS Accommodation: Booking.com / Hostelworld Getting there: flight ( Skyscanner ), bus Activities: GetYourGuide / Viator Getting around: car /bus

Suggested Balkan itineraries

Here are a few options for different time frames and destinations.

Holiday hotspot itinerary for 2 weeks

• Croatia – 1 week following my Croatia itinerary
• Montenegro – 1 week following my Montenegro itinerary

Off-the-beaten-path Balkans itinerary for 1 month

• Serbia – 3 days
• Kosovo – 5 days
• North Macedonia – 5 days
• Albania – 10 days
• Bosnia & Herzegovina – 7 days.

The complete one (up to 2 months)

• Bulgaria – 3-5 days
• Albania – up to 2 weeks

Montenegro – 1 week

• Bosnia & Herzegovina – 5 days
• Croatia – 1-2 weeks.

Watch out for overspending in Croatia & Montenegro! They’re more than twice the price of Albania and the other cheaper Balkan countries.

Let’s follow my complete Balkans itinerary for up to 2 months. However long you have, you can refer to this for things to do, what to eat & how to get around!

How to get around the Balkans

By car – this isn’t the option I took but I know it’s a common one with all freedom to you. It would be especially useful in countries like Montenegro where many attractions are in the countryside without public transport connections. I recommend Rentalcars.com for hiring vehicles in the Balkans and around the world. For a surcharge, you can choose different locations for pick up and drop off. By bus – I usually rely on Flixbus in Europe but it doesn’t serve the whole Balkan region, just certain capitals like Belgrade, Sarajevo and Podgorica. For other locations, check busticket4me , Getbybus or simply buy your tickets at the station (this is often cheaper). The Balkans are a bit old-fashioned about booking things online! Tip – have some of the country’s currency remaining when leaving. Often there’s a fee to use the bus station and a luggage fee. Carrying some Euros even in non-Euro countries is a good idea.

Best season to visit the Balkans

Summer (July & August) : this is the most popular time to visit the Balkans as well as the hottest. During my summer 2022 trip, it was often 40 degrees Celcius. If you hate the heat, it might not be the season for you. I would avoid visiting Croatia in this season regardless of the weather simply because it’s so expensive and crowded. Shoulder season: Spring (April-June) and autumn (Sept-Oct) are great times to visit with milder temperatures and cheaper prices than the summer. Winter (Nov-Feb) : if you can handle the cold and often snow, it’s not the worst idea to visit the Balkans in winter. You’ll get great prices and see attractions without the crowds. However, you won’t be able to enjoy the wonderful beaches of Albania, Montenegro and Croatia.

Belgrade, Serbia – 1-2 Days

Belgrade was the first stop of my Balkans itinerary. Although I initially didn’t fall in love with the city centre due to the chain stores and touristic prices, when I started exploring cool neighbourhoods like Skadarlija , I was hooked on the beautiful city with lots of quirky cafes and bars. Especially during the summer, it’s an outdoorsy city where you can tell people enjoy themselves.  From authentic Serbian food to fine dining, international cuisine like sushi and tacos, plus third-wave coffee and vegan food, there’s a range of options set alongside wide, leafy streets. 

Read next: is Belgrade worth visiting?

Things to do in Belgrade:

• Take the free walking tour
• Sightsee in Republic Square
• Visit Skadarlija, the Bohemian quarter
• Wander in Jevremovac Botanical Gardens
• Go inside the impressive Church of Saint Sava
• Feel pensive at the Modern Art Museum
• Soak up views from the Fortress in Kalemegdan Park
• Learn at the Yugoslavia Museum and Nikola Tesla Museum
• Browse at Akademija Book Store.

Read next: things to do see and do in Belgrade, Serbia

Getting around Belgrade:

• Bus – your best bet on a budget. They’re clean and efficient. Tickets cost around 100 Dinar (€1), paid by tapping your bank card on the screens inside. 
• Taxi – the drivers at the bus station tried to rip me off and I hear this is common if you’re not speaking Serbian. There’s one taxi app, CarGo, which is more affordable but still not especially cheap (600 Dinar/€5 for a 10-minute journey).

Day trip to Novi Sad

If you take one day trip from Belgrade, it should be to Novi Sad. The main attraction is  Novi Sad Fortress , a short walk from the city centre. On the way there and back, you’ll cross a river with beaches where you can stop for a dip. Travel time from Belgrade : 30 minutes on the fast train / 1 hour on the slow train or by car. Factor in 20 minutes to ride bus #41 to Belgrade Central Station which, misleadingly, is not in the city centre!

Pristina, Kosovo – 1-2 Days

Pristina is a small but captivating city that makes a great addition to any Balkans itinerary thanks to its fantastic cafe culture and quirky architecture that divides the masses. Things to do in Pristina:

• Find the Newborn sign celebrating Kosovo being the newest country in Europe
• Make up your own mind on the National University Library
• Climb the bell tower of Mother Theresa Cathedral
• Soak up the atmosphere on MT Boulevard
• Spot street art
• Visit the King’s Great Mosque (Xhamia e Madhe)
• Take a trip out of town to Pristina Bear Sanctuary and Gračanic Monastery.

Related read: things to do in Pristina, Kosovo

Travel time from Belgrade : 6 hours by bus.

Traditional places to eat

• Shpija e Vjetër – an atmospheric eatery with typical Kosovan dishes like kofta casserole and roasted peppers, plus rakija and local wines
• Pishat – an affordable lunch spot with local fish, meat and veggie dishes
• Caffez – a spacious bar with a garden serving modern Kosovan food, sharing platters and beers.

Cool places to eat & drink coffee

• Baba Ganoush – delicious veggie Middle Eastern food
• Soma Book Station – the prettiest cafe in town serving drinks, platters, burgers, cocktails and more
• Matcha Coffee and Eatery – healthy brunch and matcha lattes
• Dit’ e Nat’ – a beautiful cafe with outdoor seating, coffees, casual eats and cocktails.

Getting around Pristina: The city centre is walkable and there are local buses travelling further afield. For some out-of-town attractions like the Bear Sanctuary, it’s best to hire a car or take a day tour.

Peja or Prizren – 1 day each

Prizren: this small, walkable city 2 hours from Pristina by car or bus is a total contrast to the busy capital. With small mosques, cobbled streets, a river running through its centre and a fortress towering above, it’s totally idyllic. Don’t miss Noja Kuzhine for a homemade veggie breakfast for €3. You could visit as a day trip from Pristina but I preferred staying overnight. Peja: for abundant nature, caves, waterfalls and monasteries, don’t miss this beautiful region 1 hour 20 minutes from Pristina. It’s best to explore by hiring a car or taking an organised trip .

Note about passport stamps – since Serbia doesn’t recognise Kosovo, it’s recommended to visit Serbia first as they may not permit you entry if you already have a Kosovo stamp. Also, beware that if you do what I did and enter Serbia and exit Kosovo, you won’t get a Serbian exit stamp which could cause future problems entering Serbia. Read this article carefully for clarity!

North Macedonia – approx 5 days

After Kosovo, I continued my Balkans itinerary to North Macedonia, a wonderful underrated country with a pleasant capital and one of the most sublime lakes I’ve ever seen!

Skopje 1-3 days

Travel time from Pristina/Prizren : 2-3 hours depending on delays at the border. Skopje is, from the offset, an impressive and immaculate city with countless statues and grand squares. When you learn about the history, it stops being quite so lovely: during recession in 2014, the city was remodelled with a decidedly Western European look leading to riots and the Muslim community in particular feeling ignored. Personally, I preferred exploring the authentic, historic sites in the city like the Old Bazaar . Here, I tried lots of delicious foods like tavče gravče (sausages and beans), pide (flatbread), baklava, Turkish sweets and coffee. If you need a break from typical Balkan food, this is the perfect place to try Middle Eastern dishes and desserts.

Things to do in Skopje:

• Ride the cable car to the giant hilltop Millennium Cross
• Wander impressive Macedonia Square
• Take a day trip to Matka Canyon where you can hike and take boat trips
• Visit Mother Teresa’s house and museum
• See sunset from Skopje Fortress
• Take a walk in City Park.

Read next: What to do in Skopje, North Macedonia

Day 1: free walking tour, Old Bazaar, city centre Day 2: Matka Canyon day trip Day 3: Morning trip to Millennium Cross by catching a bus then the cable car. Afternoon options include visiting Kamnik Winery (or their city centre wine shop ) or simply revisiting the Old Bazaar and enjoying the vibe and food! Otherwise, visit bohemian Debar Maalo neighbourhood for authentic restaurants as well as modern air-conditioned cafes like Kanteen.

Sofia, Bulgaria – 2-3 days

Here I suggest you take a quick detour out of North Macedonia to add Bulgaria to your Balkans travel itinerary. We’ll continue exploring North Macedonia in a few days when you get back!

Travel time from Skopje: 3.5 hours by bus. I loved Sofia! It’s a beautiful city that doesn’t feel too hectic or fast-paced. There aren’t billions of things to do which is the perfect excuse to relax, drink coffee and visit wine bars like Garafa .

• Visit the incredible Alexander Nevsky Cathedral
• Take a FREE FOOD TOUR (yes, I meant those caps!) with Balkan Bites
• Step back in time at the Red Flat
• Hike at Seven Rila Lakes
• Visit Rila Monastery
• See the street art

Read next: how to spend 2 days in Sofia including all my food tips!

Plovdiv: if you have time to visit another place in Bulgaria, make it Plovdiv! This is thought to be the oldest continually-inhabited city in Europe full of historic artefacts, museums and characterful guesthouses. You can see everything in 1-2 days.

Back to North Macedonia…

Lake Ohrid – approx 2 days

Getting there: from Sofia to Ohrid , it’s best to change in Skopje (5 hours from Sofia) then get a 3.5-hour bus to the lake. It’s been a busy Balkans itinerary so far so I prescribe some downtime at one of Europe’s most beautiful (and underrated) lakes! Lake Ohrid borders North Macedonia and Albania but most people will stay in Ohrid town as a base to take boat trips, visit small beaches and watch sunset at the Church of Saint John the Theologian . Spend as long here as you need to relax!

Bitola (only if you have time) – 1 day

If you’re keen to see a third place in North Macedonia, pay a visit to Bitola (3 hours by bus from Skopje) which is the second-biggest city. The ancient ruins and mosaics at Heraclea Lyncestis are indeed impressive, but I didn’t find too much else going on in Bitola.

Albania – 2 weeks +

Beautiful Albania is well worth visiting . There are several ways to plan this leg of your Balkan itinerary. I went straight from Ohrid to Sarande but this was a long journey so many people start in Tirana. From here, you can either head to the inland destinations of Berat and Gjirokastër or the beaches of Himare and Sarande. To travel from inland Albania to the coast, there’s a direct bus between Sarande and Gjirokastër, otherwise you can travel from Berat to the beaches (or vice versa) by changing in Vlore. As some people seem unsure what to expect, I wrote a guide to solo female travel in Albania !

Read next: a complete Albania itinerary

Another consideration is when to visit Shokder for hiking in Theth. You could either do this as a return excursion from Tirana or, if you’re going to Montenegro after, save it ’til the end of your Albania adventure.

Transport tip – Albania bus journies are rarely listed online so ask your accommodation about routes & schedules. Bring cash to buy your ticket, usually purchased from a ticket man halfway through the journey. There are coaches departing Tirana but for the most part, you’ll be in minibuses. These can be hot and cramped so bring water!

Tirana – 1-2 days

Most people will spend just a day or two in Tirana which is enough time for Albania’s capital. I found some things to like here but it’s definitely not the highlight of the Balkans! Things to do in Tirana:

• Learn about mass surveillance under the communist regime at the House of Leaves
• Ride the Dajti Ekspres cable car for fantastic views
• Learn about Albania’s dark past at Bunk’Arts 1 and 2
• Shop and eat at the New Bazaar
• Hang out in Blloku neighbourhood full of cool cars, cocktail bars and international cuisine.

Read next: everything to do in Tirana

Sarande & Ksamil – 1-2 days

As someone who travels for culture and hidden gems (and on a budget!), I didn’t love the popular Albanian beach towns. Sarande is crowded and overpriced without much charm. The beaches down on Ksamil peninsular are undeniably idyllic but things are even more pricey from food to beds on the beach which you can’t escape paying for. Still, some people rave about this region so it just depends what you’re into! If you’re like me, swap Himarë into your itinerary for the Balkans instead…

Himarë – as long as you need to chill

Himarë   is an underrated beach town that suited me far better than Sarande or Ksamil. It’s not so fancy but it’s wonderful for exploring quieter beaches and eating fantastic Greek food (due to the large diaspora there) at affordable taverns. Nearby beaches worth a visit include Mateus and Gjip . A beautiful hilltop town not far away is Dhermi . If you’re a backpacker, you’ll have blast staying at  Sun Bakers Hostel ! Getting there: by car or bus, Himarë is 1.5 hours from Sarande. If coming from Tirana, it’s a long 3.5-hour journey over the mountains!

Berat – 1-2 days

Berat is a lovely UNESCO heritage city with houses stacked high on the hillside, overlooked by the castle and Holy Trinity Church . Find delicious restaurants in the Mangalemi quarter and hidden gems across the river in the Gorica quarter. There are several great wineries in the countryside surrounding Berat. Cobo Winery and Alpeta Agroturizem  serve fantastic Albanian wine in peaceful settings. Getting there: it’s around 2 hours by car or bus from Tirana (400 lek per bus ticket). Direct buses also serve Gjirokaster. From Himarë, change buses in Vlore.

Day trip to Osum Canyon & Bogove Waterfall

While you can see Berat in a day, I’d suggest spending two to include a trip to Osum Canyon close to Berat. Swimming through this magnificent natural feature was a real highlight of my Balkans itinerary! It’s one of many gems in this countryside region that also includes Bogove Waterfall, a lovely swimming spot despite the freezing cold waters. If you don’t have a car, book a guided tour or ask your accommodation if they can organise something.

Gjirokaster – 1-2 days

Gjirokaster is quaint and charming with wonderful markets and delightful regional cuisine. Don’t skip it! A day is sufficient to see Gjirokaster. As it was very hot in August, I did my sightseeing during the afternoon of day 1 and the morning of day 2, staying just a night at Stone City Hostel . This was one of the best hostels I’ve stayed in with gorgeous decor, clean spacious dorms, free breakfast and a free daily walking tour.

Getting there: I came from Sarande by direct bus but if you have a car, you could make this journey with a stop at the spectacular Blue Eye . Direct buses also connect Berat and Tirana. Transferring through Tirana, your next stop could be…

Shkodër – 2 nights

I used the small, pleasant city of Shkodër to rest and prepare for my 2-night hiking adventure in Northern Albania. However, there’s plenty to do in Shkodër like cycling to Lake Skadar, enjoying the cafe scene, hiking up to Rozafa Castle  and checking out the various museums.

Where to stay: Wanderers is a great backpacker hostel that organises the Theth hiking excursion for you. Getting to Shkoder: drive or catch a bus from Tirana. They depart every 30 minutes between 6.30am and 5pm from  Tirana regional bus station  taking 1 hour 45 minutes.

Valbona to Theth hike – 2 nights (highlight of my Balkan itinerary!)

If you have time, the highlight of my trip to Albania was hiking from Valbona to Theth . These alps are some of the most gorgeous and underrated in Europe. There are several ways to experience this region including basing yourself in the small town of Theth. In addition to the famous Valbona Pass, there are several other hikes in the area like the Blue Eye route and Qafa e Pejës . However, I can’t speak highly enough about the method I took: spending a night in Valbona and a night in Theth, using the day in the middle to hike between them. The downside is carrying all your stuff but this wasn’t too much of a problem as I left my big bag in Shkodër and packed light into a day bag. My whole trip was organised by the Wanderers hostel in Shkodër including the return transport. Browse tours to Theth .

About Albanian food

Albanian food is yummy! By the coast, there’s loads of fresh seafood and, in Himare beach town, there’s endless Greek food. I particularly enjoyed eating in Gjirokaster where I tried plenty of regional dishes I didn’t see elsewhere. Because so many Albanians go to Italy to work as chefs before returning home, the Italian food is amazing!

Characterised by lakes, mountains and sweeping coastline, Montenegro is insanely beautiful and easily one of the most underrated places in this Balkan itinerary.

Read next: the ultimate Montenegro itinerary

Ulcinj or Stari Bar – 2 days

If you’re coming from Albania, it’s easy to drive or get a bus transfer from Shkodër to Montenegro. One popular place to begin is Ulcinj beach town but I decided to start with Stari Bar which is a charming inland town surrounded by olive groves and mountains. Getting there: it’s a 15-minute drive from the larger town of Bar. If you arrive into Bar bus station, board a bus or taxi to Stari Bar.

One option is spending 2 days in Ulcinj then 2 days in Stari Bar

Kotor or Budva – 3-5 days

I loved staying in Kotor and using the charming town as a base to explore wider Montenegro. Just 30 minutes away by bus is the other popular tourist town in the country: Budva . I would suggest choosing one or the other because they’re so close you could explore the other as a day trip. Budva has a reputation for being more resorty and upmarket, popular with families and honeymooners. As a backpacker, Kotor was far more my cup of tea. However, I would recommend visiting Budva to see Stevi Stefan, an idyllic village on an island, once a playground for the rich and famous and now a luxury resort (so more or less the same thing!). Things to do in Kotor:

• Hike up to St John’s Fortress for sunset views
• Visit the quirky Cat museum!
• Visit the various churches, some Greek Orthodox, Catholic or Serbian Orthodox (Serbia and Montenegro only split in 2006).

Read next: what to do in Kotor, Montenegro (plus where to eat)

Day trips from Kotor:

• Boka Bay – take a quick speedboat tour or a more leisurely 8-hour sailing trip
• Lake Skadar – this lovely lake is full of wildlife with incredible viewpoints dotted around it. I visited as part of a guided tour .
• Durmitor National Park – the Black Lake hike is easily accessed from Zabljak village. Visit by car or a guided tour that also includes…
• Ostrog Monastery – built into the cliff face and known as a holy site where miracles happen, this monastery is easily visited by car or group tour .
• Perast, Tivat and Herceg Novi – if you have a car you could see two or all of these villages in a day. Perast is the prettiest so, if you have limited time (or you’re relying on public transport), just go there. Tivat has a fancy, boujee vibe with designer shops.
• Cetinje – the old capital of Montenegro is a beautiful town with important historic sites. Drive from Kotor in 1 hour or take a guided tour usually including the peak of Lovcen Mountain.

Where to stay in Kotor:

• Budget – Old Town Kotor Hostel
• Hotels – Boutique Hotel Astoria / Hotel Libertas / Hotel Monte Cristo
• Apartment – Wine House Apartments / Apartments Babilon .

From Kotor, continue your Balkans trip itinerary by catching the 7.40am bus to Mostar. Make sure to book in advance (using busticket4me or by purchasing your ticket at the station) as there’s only one per day!

Bosnia & Herzegovina – 1 week

I first visited Bosnia as a day trip years ago, something I would never do now! It deserves a week of your time, although I spent 2 weeks.

Mostar – 2-3 days

After two visits to Mostar, I can confirm it’s a delightfully pretty and idyllic place with wonderful attractions surrounding it. However, the recent and bitter history is a complete contrast to this sublime settlement with cobbled streets and colourful markets. I urge you to take a free walking tour, visit the museums (especially the Genocide Victims museum ) and learn about some of the worst things that have happened in Europe in the last few decades.

Read next: things to do in Mostar

Day trips from Mostar

• Blagaj Tekke – this ancient Ottoman house built into the cliff beside a river is a spectacular place to visit, just a €1 bus ride from Mostar.
• Kravice Falls – these beautiful falls are perfect for swimming and not half as busy as similar ones in Croatia!
• Počitelj – described as an open-air museum, this charming village has mosques, churches and a castle. A must for historians!
• Visit all three during one day as part of a guided tour from Mostar .

Sarajevo – 3 days +

Larger than Mostar but still small for a capital, the wonderful city of Sarajevo is one of the best places I visited during my Balkans itinerary. It has well-preserved Ottoman markets selling the same handmade goods they have for centuries, captivating museums, ornate mosques and tasty food. It’s amazing and cheap!

Things that make Sarajevo worth visiting :

• Shop at Bascarsija Bazaar, particularly on historic Kazandžiluk Street
• Visit heartbreaking but important museums like the War Childhood Museum and Gallery 11/07/95
• Watch sunset from the Yellow Fortress (Žuta Tabija)
• Walk through the Tunnel of Hope, ideally on a fall of Yugoslavia tour that also includes…
• The abandoned 1984 Olympic bobsleigh track at the top of Mount Trebević (ride the cable car there).

Read next: What to do (and eat) in Sarajevo

About Bosnian food

You’ll find all the Balkan classics in Bosnia & Herzegovina like burek and cevapi, but there’s a distinctly Ottoman influence so expect tasty desserts like baklava and coffee with Turkish delight.

I can recommend lots of restaurants like Šadrvan and Tima Irma in Mostar and ASDŽ Aščinica (buffet), Sač (burek) and Cafe Dućan (baklava) in Sarajevo. From Sarajevo, you can easily take the Flixbus to Dubrovnik to finish your trip in the most ‘holiday-ish’ place of them all…

Croatia – 1-2 weeks

If you travel through the cheaper Balkan countries in July or August, it would be perfect to finish in Croatia in September when the crowds are leaving. Alternatively, I’d reverse this itinerary and visit Croatia in May or June at the start of your Balkans itinerary. I put together this 1 week Croatia itinerary including Dubrovnik, Split and Zadar (along with some other suggestions like Istria) but you can spend longer if you have the budget: Croatia is considerably more expensive than most of the Balkan countries. I’ll keep this brief because all the details are in my Croatia itinerary linked above so go check that out!

Split: after 3 months living here, I can vouch for there being lots of things to do in Split and many wonderful day trips to the islands, waterfalls and idyllic small towns like Trogir . The Diocletian’s Palace in Split Old Town boasts some of the best-preserved Roman architecture in the world, while Marjan Forest Park offers amazing hikes and views just moments from the city. Dubrovnik: everyone knows this city and for good reason: it’s beautifully preserved, known for its Game of Thrones filming… and hellishly busy and expensive in the summer! Popular things to do in Dubrovnik include walking the old city walls, admiring Lovrijenac fortress, taking the cable car (or hiking) up Mt Srd, hitting the beaches and cruising to Lokrum Island . Zadar : this underrated Dalmatian coastal city is a great alternative if the touristic cities above don’t take your fancy… or suit your budget! Take day trips to Pag Island and Dugi Otok island. Zagreb : the capital of Croatia isn’t half as atmospheric as Dubrovnik and Split but it’s a decent base with nice cafes , street art and easy access to Plitvice Lakes National Park .

Budget and money in the Balkans

Excluding Croatia and Montenegro, I was amazed by the cheap prices in the Balkans. Many places are almost on a parr with Southeast Asia! On a backpackers budget, you could live on €25 a day. I certainly kept the costs down by staying in hostels but I like wine and brunch too much to stick to €25 a day since turning 30 😉 Montenegro, Croatia and Kosovo use the Euro but the other countries have their own currencies. I would recommend spending most of your currency before leaving because you can rarely exchange it outside of the countries. But do save the local equivalent of a few Euros for luggage and station fees if leaving by bus.

Thanks for reading!

Check out all my Balkans blogs:

Serbia: Things to do in Belgrade, Serbia | Reasons to visit Belgrade Kosovo: What to do in Pristina, Kosovo Albania: The ultimate Albania itinerary | Things to do in Tirana, Albania | Valbona hiking guide | Is Albania safe for female travellers? North Macedonia: Attractions in Skopje, North Macedonia Romania: 2 week Romania itinerary | What to do in Brasov, Romania | Things to do in Timisoara, Romania | hidden gems in Bucharest | Romania travel tips Bulgaria: 2 days in Sofia, Bulgaria | Hiking Rila Lakes in Bulgaria | Visiting Rila Monastery, Bulgaria

Slovenia: The perfect Slovenia itinerary | Things to see and do in Ljubljana | wine tasting in Ljubljana | the best restaurants in Ljubljana Croatia: 7 day Croatia itinerary | Things to do in Split | Split day trips | Marjan Forest Park | Split restaurants | Split coffee | Krka Falls from Split day trip | What to do in Trogir | Things to do in Dubrovnik | Lokrum island guide | Croatia solo travel | What to do in Zagreb | Zagreb cafes | Plitvice day trip from Zagreb | Zagreb street art | things to do in Zadar | Pag island | Dugi Otok Island Bosnia & Herzegovina: Things to do in Mostar | The top attractions in Sarajevo | Is Sarajevo worth visiting?

For more Europe content, follow me on Instagram , Facebook , Twitter and YouTube .

TRUSTED RESOURCES FOR VISITING BALKANS Getting around by air – I use Skyscanner and search by month to see the cheapest dates. Driving in Europ e – use Rentalcars.com to compare car rentals in European countries (and all around the world). For buses around Europe, I use Flixbus . It doesn’t connect all destinations in the Balkans but does service some popular locations like Belgrade, Skopje, Sarajevo and Podgorica. For hotels and self-catering apartments, I use Booking.com . You can filter by review score and price to find the best-rated budget places. For hostels, I use Hostelworld . To save money on accommodation, I use Trusted Housesitters , a website that connects homeowners going away and travellers who can sit their homes & pets. Browse tours and activities on GetYourGuide and Viator . Need travel insurance ? I use True Traveller (for UK & Europe residents) since it’s affordable but covers everything you’d need including various activities, valuables and pre-existing conditions. Unlike some companies, they insure you if you’re already travelling / don’t yet have your flight home booked. Get a quote . For travel insurance for other nationalities, I recommend Hey Mundo and for long-term digital nomad travellers, I suggest Safety Wing . Check out my resources page for more travel discounts and budget tips from my 10+ years on the road!

Rose is a solo traveller from the UK who has been on the road since 2015. She wants to show other women that solo travel isn't scary and doesn't have to be expensive! Rose has lived in Mexico, Canada and all over Asia, seeking out food, bubble tea and street art wherever she goes!

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• Bosnia Herzegovina
• The Ultimate Beginners Guide To...

The Ultimate Beginner's Guide to Travelling the Balkans

Did you know that he word ‘balkan’ means ‘mountains’ in Turkish? Well, the exact definition in Ottoman Turkish is ‘a chain of wooden mountains’, which refers to the regional Balkan, Rhodope, Diarnic Alps and the Carpathian Mountains. The area evolved very differently from Western Europe, giving adventurous travellers a different, and a somewhat less explored, experience. Here’s a short guide on the essentials for visiting the Balkans.

Where are the balkans.

Geographically, the Balkans refers to Europe’s large eastern peninsula, including Yugoslavia, Albania, Bulgaria, Romania, Moldova and parts of Greece and European Turkey. But not everyone agrees with this definition. Some identify based on historical and cultural terms , which tends just to include Bulgaria and the Former Yugoslavian nations. If you hear the name, it may refer to some or all of the countries mentioned above.

Where to Go:

There’s a rich history here too with Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman and Yugoslavian influences as well as one or two Kingdoms. Take the time to understand the complicated story to appreciate the complex Balkan past.

On a broader Balkan trip, consider Bulgaria, Macedonia, Serbia , Kosovo , Bosnia , Montenegro and Croatia. Albania is worth visiting too. Favourites include Macedonia’s Skopje and Lake Ohrid, Montenegro’s Bay of Kotor, Serbia’s Nis and, of course, Belgrade, Bosnia’s Sarajevo and Mostar, and Croatia’s Dubrovnik.

If you want to get a more off-the-beaten-path experience, check out Plovdiv in Bulgaria, Kosovo’s Pristina and Prizren, Banja Luka in Bosnia and Albania’s Tirana, Duress and Berat.

How to Travel:

The best way to get into the Balkans is by flying. European budget airlines, in particular Wizz Air, connects to many destinations. You shouldn’t have any difficulties finding an inexpensive flight to Sofia (Bulgaria), Skopje (Macedonia) and Tuzla (Bosnia).

The best way to travel within the Balkans is by either the bus or train. Getting around is quite easy, but for someone without experience, it can be frustrating and challenging. Prices aren’t as low as you may think; expect to pay at least US $10 or more for a one-way ticket.

If you’re travelling over a land border, you may or may not get an entrance or exit stamp, but this rarely causes problems.

Typical Travel Difficulties:

One of the biggest difficulties for Balkan travel is finding reliable information on timetables, costs and points of departure. Information online is hard to come by and even then, can’t be trusted. Schedules at the station may or may not be up to date.

You usually need to buy tickets from the station on either day of departure or in advance and give them to the drivers. Be aware some routes also charge to store luggage.

For the Balkan novice, this can all be daunting. But there’s a simple solution that works every time. And the majority of tourists, from my experience, fail to do it and end up frustrated. All you need to do is write the destination in either Latin or Cyrillic, the date, a time you want to depart, a price with a question mark and show them the day before. For example: ‘Sarajevo, 01/01/18, 11:00? 10KM?’

Give them the paper and a pen. If the time and price are wrong, they’ll change it, and you have your answer. Ask if they speak English, if yes, be as direct as possible. If not, rely on your paper.

Safety Tips:

Is it safe to travel to the Balkans? The answer is yes. Despite the negative connotations the region has for violence and conflict, the Balkans aren’t at war anymore. Whereas ethnic tensions remain, especially in the Former Yugoslavia, and protests are common, you’ll rarely face difficulties.

Regarding safety, watch out for gypsies, who often beg and follow foreigners around. Also, be wary of scams in touristy areas.

But don’t let this deter you, the Balkans are safe. The kind of attacks that are becoming more common in Western Europe have not reached this area. And you’ll find warmth and hospitality from the people you meet.

A Balkan Experience:

The Balkan experience is different from Western Europe, but travelling in the region is rewarding because of the history, culture and relatively affordable travel costs. You’ll quickly fall in love with the region.

Since you are here, we would like to share our vision for the future of travel - and the direction Culture Trip is moving in.

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Increasingly we believe the world needs more meaningful, real-life connections between curious travellers keen to explore the world in a more responsible way. That is why we have intensively curated a collection of premium small-group trips as an invitation to meet and connect with new, like-minded people for once-in-a-lifetime experiences in three categories: Culture Trips, Rail Trips and Private Trips. Our Trips are suitable for both solo travelers, couples and friends who want to explore the world together.

Culture Trips are deeply immersive 5 to 16 days itineraries, that combine authentic local experiences, exciting activities and 4-5* accommodation to look forward to at the end of each day. Our Rail Trips are our most planet-friendly itineraries that invite you to take the scenic route, relax whilst getting under the skin of a destination. Our Private Trips are fully tailored itineraries, curated by our Travel Experts specifically for you, your friends or your family.

We know that many of you worry about the environmental impact of travel and are looking for ways of expanding horizons in ways that do minimal harm - and may even bring benefits. We are committed to go as far as possible in curating our trips with care for the planet. That is why all of our trips are flightless in destination, fully carbon offset - and we have ambitious plans to be net zero in the very near future.

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Bosnia Budget Travel Guide (Is Bosnia and Herzegovina Affordable to Travel?)

• Last Updated: September 17, 2023

Bosnia and Herzegovina is one of the few European countries that are still affordable to travel to even in the summer months. But how much exactly does it cost to travel to Bosnia and what should be your daily budget in Bosnia? I will answer these and many more of your questions in this Bosnia Budget Travel Guide.

I travelled Bosnia and Herzegovina for a full 5 weeks on a tight budget and tracked all my expenses. Before my trip, I was not able to find comprehensive and up-to-date information on how little you can spend while travelling in Bosnia, so I decided to create this Budget Travel Bosnia Guide so you can find all the information you might need.

With the recent rise in prices throughout Europe, travel in the Old Continent has become quite expensive. Unfortunately, inflation has also reached the Balkans and Bosnia, so finding a dorm room for €10 is now difficult. Not impossible, but difficult.

The cheapest hostel bed I found was €10 but I recommend you book it well in advance in the summer as the best and cheapest are gone quickly. Outside of the summer months, it will be much easier to find an affordable room or dorm bed. 

The best way to travel cheaper in the Balkans and of course in Bosnia is to travel outside in the summer months. The prices of accommodation, as well as tours and experiences, will be lower. 

Table of Contents

Is Travelling in Bosnia affordable?

Bosnia and Herzegovina can be very affordable to travel to if you plan your trip well, stay in hostels and travel mainly by public transportation. Even private rooms in places like Sarajevo or Mostar can be as cheap as €12 per night, but be prepared to stay a bit outside the tourist centre and share facilities like bathrooms or kitchens.

Public transportation is widely available, comfortable and very affordable. Although some activities like visiting Kravica waterfalls are only possible if you drive or opt for an organised tour which can be a little more expensive, there are many other activities and attractions that are free to enjoy or accessible by public transport.

You can travel in Bosnia and Herzegovina with a budget of only 25 € (28 €) for a shoestring traveller or 35 € (38 €) for a regular budget traveller.

You will find a complete breakdown of the different budgets for travel in Bosnia later in this post.

Currency in Bosnia

The official currency in Bosnia and Herzegovina is the Bosnian Convertible Mark – KM or BAM. There are some places that accept euros but do not take it for granted.

In Sarajevo, for example, you will mostly pay with KM in shops, bars, restaurants and museums, but you can also pay with euros for some accommodations or organised tours.

In Mostar, all souvenir stores and hotels accept the euro.

Cash is king in Bosnia. While some restaurants accept credit card payments, many do not. You can pay by card in larger supermarkets, clothing stores and upscale restaurants, but most hostels and homestays accept cash only.

Withdrawing cash in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

All ATMs in Bosnia will charge you a withdrawal fee. The majority will charge you 10KM.  It varies depending on your card issuer and the country you are from – there is no set rule.

The best way to find the lowest ATM fee in Bosnia (and all of the Balkans) is to try a few different ATMs at first and see what fee they want to charge you. If it’s too high then just cancel the transaction. It is a bit of a pain but since you found the most affordable ATM you can stick to it for the rest of the trip. The two banks that charged me the least were Nova Bank and Unicredit Bank but I highly recommend you check it for your card. 

You can also look to send money to yourself via Western Union and save on ATM fees this way. 

Cost of Accommodation in Bosnia

Bosnia and Herzegovina is still one of the most affordable countries to travel to in Europe and you can find dorm beds for as little as €10. Across the country, you will also be able to find private rooms for €12 or even less in the winter. 

I paid €12 per night for this basic studio in Sarajevo and only €15 per night for a whole apartment in Trebinje. I stayed slightly outside of the town in both cases but it was very much worth it.

If you want to stay in the centre and in a comfortable hotel room or apartment you can still look to pay as little as  €20 per night. 

The best websites to look for accommodation in Bosnia and Herzegovina are Booking.com and Hostelworld . 

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Cost of food and eating out in Bosnia

While travelling in Bosnia you can eat very cheaply and easily spend only €10 ($11)per day if you have simple dietary needs.

For a shoestring traveller who eats burek for breakfast and a meal of Cevapi for dinner or cooks pasta in the hostel €10 a day is very achievable.

But we all like a nice meal from time to time and a bit more variety for breakfast. If you buy ingredients in the supermarket and cook your breakfast (eggs or sandwiches) and go out for dinner in the evening you will spend around 12 to 15€ per day excluding drinks.

Here are a few examples of prices of food and drinks in Bosnia and Herzegovina:

Cevapi (5 pieces) – 7KM

Cevapi (10 pieces) – 10 to 12KM

Basic dinner in a local restaurant – 10KM

Nice dinner in the traditional restaurant – 15- 20KM

Fancy dinner in an upmarket restaurant – 25 to 30Km

Burek – 3KM

Nice sandwich in the bakery – 6KM

Coffee macchiato – 2KM

Cappucino – 2 to 4KM

A glass of wine – 3 to 5KM

Local Beer – 2 to 3 KM

Cost of Trasportsation in Bosnia

Overland transport in Bosnia and Herzegovina is very affordable. For budget travellers in Bosnia, I recommend using public buses which are widely affordable and pretty comfortable. 

At times you can book a bus ticket online but be aware that you will have to print the ticket and party an additional 2KM or 1Euro to hold the big bag in the storage. The best app to check bus timetables in Bosnia and the whole of the Balkans is Busticket4.me . You can also buy bus tickets on the Flixbus website if the route is covered by them. 

Here are some examples of transport prices between the towns:

Sarajevo to Mostar by bus – €13

Sarajevo to Mostar by train – 15KM (€7.60$/8.50)

Jajce to Sarajevo – €17

Mostar to Trebinje – €12

Mostar to Blagaj by local bus – 2.10KM

Activities and Entertainment / Bosnia Budget Travel Guide

The cost of activities in Bosnia varies and ranges from completely free to quite expensive. Activities like hiking, sightseeing and exploring are obviously free and there is plenty of those you can do in Bosnia. 

There are very few free museums in Bosnia and Herzegovina but on average a ticket should cost you between €5  and €10. 

A cable car to Mount Trebević costs €10 and is very much worth paying for!

A free walking tour is always a great way of exploring the city. Be aware that it is customary to tip the guide but you can adjust it to your financial abilities.

Finally, if you prefer to take an organised tour you will have to be prepared to pay a little more. Some of the tours are definitely worth paying for and especially if you are short on time, can save the hassle of organising transport and getting all the logistics sorted.

Here are some of the most popular tours and experiences in Bosnia and Herzegovina and what you should expect to pay for them:

Herzegovina Tour which includes Blagaj, Pocitelj, Kravice Waterfalls, and Mostar – $55

Sarajevo Fall of Yugoslavia with War Tunner Museum £35

Neretva River White Water Rafting adventure $45

Tito’s Bunker Tour $17

Lukomir Highland Village Hike $95

Bosnia Travel Daily Budget for Backpackers

If you are a backpacker staying mostly in cheaper hostel dorms, opt for free activities and cook your meals in the hostel or get cheaper local dishes like burek or cevapi your daily Bosnia budget would be around €25/£27 per day. 

Add to it a beer or two every now and then and a few nicer meals out of a paid activity and you should budget at least €30/$32 per day. 

Did you get your travel insurance yet? Travel Insurance will let you travel with the peace of mind knowing that no matter what, your unexpected medical or travel emergencies are covered. I use Heymondo for a few reasons. They have clear policies with no deductibles, the price is excellent for what they offer and the price doesn’t go up when you are over 30 years old. They have a dedicated, easy-to-use app and free assistance calls.

I can get a cover for a month or three months and I know I can travel with peace of mind and get the best product for my money.

Heymondo offers my readers 5% off so go ahead, and click on this link and get your quote.

Wondering if Bosnia and Herzegovina is safe to travel? Read my complete guide to Bosnia Travel Safety !

Are you heading to Sarajevo  and wondering where to stay? Here is my full guide to  all the areas and best accommodation in Sarajevo  and one specifically dedicated to the  best hostels !

Be sure you visit Mostar and even stay for a few days! there are heaps of things to do in Mostar including some awesome day trips !

How much should be your daily budget for travel in Bosnia?

Here is the breakdown of the daily Bosnia travel budget for different types of travellers:

A Shoestring Backpacker (staying in cheap hostels, eating street food and cooking in hostels, no paid tours or activities and no fancy parties) – €25 / $27 a day

An average backpacker (variety of hostels and some cheap private rooms, some meals out and few drinks every now and then, some more affordable paid activities like museums) – €30-35 / $32-37 a day

An average traveller (affordable private rooms, some meals out, a paid experience or two, few nights out) – €35-45 / $37-47

A tourist/ very comfortable traveller – €60/$63 and above 

A Monthly Bosnia Travel Budget

I have spent €900/$985 for a month of travel in Bosnia and Herzegovina. I have however stayed in quite a few private rooms and treated myself to dinner and wine around 3 to 4 times a week. 

If you are money conscious mid-budget traveller you should account for between €900 to €1200 for a whole month of travel in Bosnia. 

If you want to travel comfortably and eat out most days a monthly budget of €1200 to €15000 would be sufficient. 

I hope you found this Bosnia Budget Travel Guide helpful and all your questions have been answered.

If you think I have missed something important, comment below and I will answer your question or add additional information to this post.

Happy travels and enjoy Bosnia!

This post may contain affiliate links which means that if you purchase the product or make a booking via one of my links, I will receive a small commission. Please know that I will never recommend or promote a product I don’t believe in or haven’t used. This way, you are supporting this blog at no extra cost to you. Thank you!

Exploring more of off-the-beaten-path Bosnia and Herzegovina?

Be sure to stop by the  wonderful town of Jajce! And the town of Trebinje will definitely surprise you!

And if you are wondering if  Banja Luka is worth visiting, read this post!

Your Balkans Cheatsheet

If you are travelling around the Balkans by bus, Flixbus covers a  lot of the routes but they often cooperate with local operators. It is convenient to book on the Flixbus website if you want to pay for your journey upfront.

If you prefer to pay directly with the local operator, be prepared to pay in cash . To check the timetable BusTicket4.me is the most reliable. But I still recommend only using it for checking the times and purchasing the ticket at the bus station.

In the majority of Balkan countries, you will pay a 1€ (or equivalent in local currency) fee for luggage.

The bus is the best way to travel between Balkan countries but there are a couple of stunning train routes you cannot miss like Sarajevo to Mostar or Belgrade to Bar!

If you are considering renting a car you can browse all rental companies via Expedia!

Always, always triple-check the information you were given, especially when it comes to inter-city travel. Only because one person, in one place says there are no busses, it doesn’t mean it’s true. Triple check.

Only Slovenia and Croatia are within the Schengen Area so individual visa rules will apply. In 2024 we will also see Romania and Bulgaria joining Schengen Area.

Only Slovenia, Kosovo, Montenegro and Croatia use Euros. All other countries use their own currency. In some touristy spots, you will be able to use Euros but dont take it for granted. You will pay for a coffee pot from a souvenir stand in Mostar in Euros, but the supermarket will ask for Bosnian Marks. 

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Hi, I’m Pati. A traveller, photographer (aspiring), dreamer and hopeless believer in magic. I caught the travel bug in my forties – and not planning to look back any time soon. I travel solo and on a budget and I try to spend as much time and effort as possible to truly immerse myself in the country I am visiting.

Whether you are like me and decided to change your life around a new dream or just wandering (because not all who wander are lost) – I am here to tell you that everything is possible. 

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This Is The Cheapest Region Of The Mediterranean For Tourists

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Home to some of the world's oldest nations and being distinct for its turquoise waters, the Mediterranean is one of the most visited holiday destinations globally, drawing in millions of tourists year-round, but especially in the warmer months when it's sunny out.

The only problem is that certain Mediterranean destinations can hit your wallet, from Ibiza, Spain's leading leisure island, to Mykonos, the party capital of Greece, to Amalfi, Italy's pristine coast dotted with colorful towns, all three of which are eye-wateringly expensive .

Luckily, not all Med spots have exorbitant prices , and though a majority of the most popular do, this region of the Ancient Sea is not only incredibly cheap to visit but arguably its most beautiful:

The Adriatic Is The Cheapest Part Of The Mediterranean

In case you didn't know, the Mediterranean is divided into 11 parts, all bearing different names-Aegean, Ligurian, Balearic-but belonging to the same sea nonetheless.

One of those, the Adriatic, is bordered by some of Europe's most budget-friendly countries.

The world may know the Adriatic as Italy's ‘eastern' coast, where the iconic dry stone, conical roof houses of Puglia, the resort city of Rimini, and the floating city of Venice are located, but across the narrow body of water, the Mediterranean's northernmost lies the Balkan Peninsula .

The ‘Balkan' countries comprise much of Southeastern Europe, with five of them straddling parts of the Adriatic coastline. They are close neighbors, but they have surprisingly distinct cultures, making the peninsula a melting pot of the sorts:

• Bosnia and Herzegovina

Before we discuss prices, let's briefly go through each one of them:

How Do Balkan Countries Compare?

Slovenia has the second shortest coastline in the Adriatic, at only 28 miles.

Due to its proximity to Austria and Hungary, it has more of a Central European character than a Mediterranean one.

Its neighbor to the south, Croatia, on the other hand, claims much of the Adriatic for itself.

As the meme goes, it's almost as if Bosnians said they wanted to swim, and Croatia replied a sharp ‘no': the Croatian coast comprises over 90% of the Balkan side of the Adriatic, getting narrower and narrower, all but fencing off Bosnia's access to the sea.

Needless to say, Croatia is the leading Balkan destination , highly sought-after for its millennia-old Dalmatian cities, with Zadar, Split and Dubrovnik to name a few, paradisaical islands and pebbly beaches bounded by crystalline waters.

Bosnia does have a coast, albeit a 12-mile long one (they've got Croatia to thank for that), leaving Montenegro, the next country in line, as Croatia's strongest competitor.

Stone-built, cobblestone-laden towns, scenic beaches, you know how it goes.

Finally, at the southern end of Montenegro's 183-mile-long coast, we have Albania, the Adriatic's best-kept secret , where tourists will find sandy beaches, which are surprisingly rare in this part of the Mediterranean, and most importantly, significantly lower consumer prices.

Adriatic Countries Are Remarkably Cheap

Speaking of affordability – we know this is what you came here for – we're not sure you've realized this by now, but a vacation in the Adriatic will hardly break the bank .

That is, if you're sticking to the Balkans and avoiding Italy altogether:

Balkan Adriatic states are remarkably affordable: in Montenegro, ordering a cevapi – a minced meat flatbread bap served with onions – and a drink at an inexpensive restaurant will cost you less than ten bucks on average, and the same goes for Bosnia and Herzegovina:

It makes up for its lack of an extensive coast with cheap eats – eating in inexpensive restaurants will set you back a mere $5 on average each time – and accommodation, as cheap as $26 per night on average, according to Budget Your Trip .

Croatia is probably the most expensive of all, being dubbed a ‘mini Italy' due to its rising cost of living, but if you're willing to sacrifice some comfort, you should expect to pay only $25 for a dorm bed, and there's plenty of delicious, $3 takeaway calzoni to be had in downtown Split.

Slovenia is not that cheap either: the official currency is the euro, and it's a developed country that enjoys high standards of living.

That being said, an overnight at the three-star Art Hotel in Piran, part of the Slovenian Riviera and Split without the crowds, costs an acceptable $82 per adult.

You're probably not coming all the way to the Mediterranean to sleep in hostels and be frugal, however, and that's why you should consider spending most of your time in budget traveler paradise Albania instead:

Albania Is The Cheapest Country Out Of Them All

This is the cheapest Balkan country by a mile, and somewhere you go to escape the crowds in Croatia and Montenegro and live it up in a resort by the sea without depleting your own savings.

Don't believe us? Check these out:

You can book a standard double room with a pool view at the Adriatik Hotel, part of the BW Premier Collection in Durres, one of Albania's liveliest coastal cities, for only $104 this spring per adult , or the majestic Santa Quaranta Premium Resort in Sarande for $56 each as a couple.

Sarande is part of the Albanian Riviera, where rare, white-sand Balkan beaches are concentrated.

It's the perfect home for exploring the southern provinces of the country, which are famous not only for their swimming sites but also for their Greco-Roman ruins.

Eating out in Sarande, you'll likely see your account balance decrease by a negligible $20 per day , unless you're actively looking to splurge on fine dining, and in that case, it's still approximately $46 you'll be billed.

Yep, Albania is dirt cheap .

Why Are Adriatic Vacations So Cheap?

You may be wondering why vacations in the Adriatic Sea are so cheap when island-hopping in super yachts around the Aegean or partying in the Balearics seems to be reserved for the super-wealthy only, but there's a simple answer to this:

Most Balkan countries are years behind in development compared to their European counterparts, and in the case of Bosnia and Herzegovina, Montenegro, and Albania, they're not members of the economic powerhouse that is the European Union.

In general, Western countries provide more complex social protections, be it in the form of benefits or robust worker rights.

Not to mention, local purchasing power is elevated. Taxes are much higher, too, as the welfare state and living standards need to be upheld.

To put it simply, the Balkans are poorer countries – most notably Bosnia and Albania – with lower consumer prices, at least for the odd American visitor. It's not that prices are particularly low for locals themselves.

It's the weaker currency that makes your tourist dollars stretch much further .

$1 equals 0.011 Albanian lek, for instance, and judging by the country's mininum wage , set at a disparaging $421, you soon begin to understand how a Mediterranean gem boasting immense cultural value and gorgeous beaches can be such a bargain.

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Tracing the Long, Winding Path of an Ancient Roman Aqueduct

The Aqua Marcia was the longest of the city’s aqueducts, running nearly 60 miles from its source in the countryside to the heart of ancient Rome. The author followed its course, above and below ground.

In the Park of the Aqueducts, 20 minutes by metro from central Rome, ancient aqueducts that once supplied the Eternal City with water have been preserved. Credit... Roberto Salomone for The New York Times

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By David Laskin

David Laskin, a frequent visitor to Rome for the past four decades, has written numerous articles on the history, culture, art and architecture of the Eternal City.

• April 24, 2024

The stone arches looped solemnly over their shadows, some teetering above the grass, some sinking into it. It was a dazzling January morning, and I was standing in the Park of the Aqueducts , about 20 minutes by metro from central Rome. Here, the ruined arcades of six of the 11 aqueducts that once supplied the Eternal City with an astonishing volume of water — by some counts double the per capita water allotment of a typical 21st-century American city — have been preserved.

My aim was to trace the course of one of them: the Aqua Marcia, built between 144 and 140 B.C. by Julius Caesar’s ancestor Quintus Marcius Rex.

Hailed by Pliny the Elder as “the most famous of all waters in the world for coldness and wholesomeness,” the Marcia was also the longest of the capital’s ancient aqueducts, running some 56.8 miles from source to city. Only about 6.2 miles stood above ground.

I had always assumed that Rome’s aqueducts were a kind of aerial plumbing, their water channeled atop arches. But the Marcia, like all classical aqueducts, ran largely underground. The water moved by the force of gravity, and arches and bridges, which were expensive and vulnerable to attack, were only used to span ravines, valleys and other dips in the terrain that would have interrupted the flow.

The arcade of the Marcia is now dry, but the same water still feeds mountain springs east of the capital. And though it now travels through a modern network of tunnels and tubes, the water is still referred to by its ancient name and is still considered Rome’s best drinking water.

One of the series of arches that rose before me once carried this current to Rome. But which one?

In the Park of the Aqueducts

The roughly 600-acre Park of the Aqueducts has few signs, maps or directions. Romans come here to jog and walk their dogs. The few tourists wander through a bucolic landscape — green, tranquil, its imposing ruins seemingly untouched by modernity — that has appeared in such iconic Italian films as “La Dolce Vita” and “La Grande Bellezza.”

Michele Alfonsi, a lawyer who heads up Pons Iani , a volunteer group devoted to aqueducts, offered to guide me. “See that?” he asked, pointing to a stone passageway atop massive arches. “That’s the specus of the Aqua Marcia.”

Specus is the Latin term for a roofed channel built at a slight downward slope so that water would run through it without gushing or puddling. This one was nearly high enough to stand up inside.

We clambered up the keystone of the arch, now just a few feet above ground level. When it was completed during the heyday of the Republic, the Marcia was the first aqueduct to bring water to the Capitoline, Rome’s most sacred hill. A small fountain there has been chiseled with the words “Acqua Marcia,” but like modern Rome’s taps, it now spouts a mixture of water from five different founts.

To sample pure Marcia water, I’d need to travel to the source.

‘Where’s the water?’

Sextus Julius Frontinus, the first-century commissioner of the aqueducts, wrote that the fount of the Marcia is near the 36th milestone of the ancient Roman road Via Valeria (roughly 35 miles east of Rome). But I had been warned that the original trenches had been obliterated in 1870 when the Marcia’s long-defunct classical aqueduct was reincarnated as the Acqua Pia Antica Marcia.

“You’ll get close,” said Peter J. Aicher, author of “Guide to the Aqueducts of Ancient Rome,” “by searching for Centro Casetta Rossa Idrico on Google Maps.”

I found the “casetta,” a small red stucco house used by the modern aqueduct’s maintenance personnel, at the edge of a green field. Aside from the inscription “Acqua Pia Antica Marcia 1870” carved over the front door, and the shed-like structures built above springs alongside the road, there was no indication that Rome’s best drinking water originated here.

I took in the rounded hills, hazy blue in the distance, and the Italian cypresses striping their shadows across a little-traveled, two-lane highway. “Where’s the water?” I asked a maintenance man. He pointed down: The underground springs that Quintus Marcius Rex first channeled over 2,000 years ago still bubble beneath this bucolic spot. The only way to plumb Marcia’s depths was to go spelunking.

Which is how, a few days later, I found myself clinging to an exposed tree root on the side of a ravine dropping to the Aniene River east of Rome. “Put your right foot there,” Alfonso Diaz Boj coaxed. “Two more steps and we’ll be at the Marcia’s specus.”

Mr. Diaz Boj, a guide with Sotterranei di Roma , which offers tours of Rome’s underground treasures, was leading a jaunt into the ancient, now-dry aqueduct channels buried near the town of Vicovaro, about eight miles west of the Marcia’s source. Twelve of us met at the Convent of San Cosimato, whose property contains the ruins, to suit up in hard hats and headlamps.

Once we had negotiated the hand- and toeholds and were hunched into the shoulder-high specus, Mr. Diaz Boj pointed to a lozenge of light slanting down from a shaft: “Teams of workers excavated these shafts every 15 meters. When they reached the proper depth, two teams dug toward each other laterally until they joined up.”

We passed bats clinging to the walls, and quills attested to the presence of porcupines. Over the centuries, the Marcia’s water had deposited multicolored bubbles and stripes of calcium on the concrete that Romans used to seal the specus. Mr. Diaz Boj pointed to graffiti scratched into the concrete — mysterious crosses, doodles and the possibly faked signature of Thomas Ashby, the British archaeologist and author of the 1935 “Aqueducts of Ancient Rome.”

After a lunch of lasagna, saltimbocca alla Romana and roast potatoes at the convent, I had a drink from a spigot in the garden. Only later did I learn that Vicovaro is inside the zone that receives the Marcia’s water unadulterated. It was delicious and refreshing, though I can’t say I detected much difference from the mixed water of central Rome.

The Marcia surfaces on arches and bridges several times between Vicovaro and the Park of the Aqueducts, most spectacularly at Ponte Lupo, about 10 miles south of Tivoli. This colossal bridge spanning a deep gorge has been in the hands of the Barberini family since 1633, when Pope Urban VIII acquired the surrounding estate. Guided tours (reserve by email, [email protected] ) are offered occasionally and during the festivals held here in the summer. Fortunately for me, a friend in Rome had arranged a private visit.

Ponte Lupo’s present owner, the actor and activist Prince Urbano Barberini, was waiting for us at the unpaved access road. A trim, handsome man in his early 60s, the prince recounted the site’s recent vicissitudes as he led us down a sloping meadow. When he regained title to the property after a long legal battle, the field and stream around the bridge had been buried in rubbish and frequented by sex workers.

I had seen images of Ponte Lupo, but nothing prepared me for its size and complexity. The original tuff arches carried the Marcia across a steep ravine. Subsequent retaining walls and buttresses have transformed the bridge into a palimpsest of building styles.

“It’s a difficult scramble,” the prince said, gazing up to the precipitous, densely vegetated summit above a dry creek. “Would you like to try?”

I eyed the rugged, tangled sides of the ravine. “Maybe not.”

“Good,” the prince replied, smiling. And we strolled back to the highway.

‘Engineering on a monumental scale’

The Marcia entered Rome on arches at Porta Maggiore , chosen as the entry point for eight ancient aqueducts because of its high elevation on Esquiline Hill. At first glance this busy crossroads near the Termini rail station struck me as rough and forlorn, but I gave it a closer look. Aqueduct arches converge or radiate from every direction. The Marcia’s specus is slotted above a chunky pier built of a volcanic stone called tuff that abuts the gate.

If you tune out the traffic, there is no better place to savor what one historian calls the Roman “knack for practical engineering on a monumental scale.”

It takes about half an hour on foot to trace the Marcia’s path through ancient Rome. From Porta Maggiore, the aqueduct tracked the Aurelian Wall as far as the elegant Augustan arch called Porta Tiburtina. From there, it veered off to follow today’s Via Marsala before emptying into a distribution basin now buried beneath the train station.

The Fountain of the Naiads

After the Marcia was reborn as the Marcia Pia in 1870, the Fountain of the Naiads was conjured up to showcase its purity in the Piazza della Repubblica, a 10-minute walk from Termini station.

Some of Baroque Rome’s most cherished monuments are display fountains, or mostre, celebrating the newly restored aqueducts that once again brought spring water to Rome. The Trevi Fountain is the mostra of the Acqua Vergine, the only aqueduct that has run continuously since antiquity.

But the Fountain of the Naiads is different. Unlike the gravity-fed aqueducts of pre-modern times, the Marcia flowed under pressure created by mechanical pumps, which allowed the fountain’s jets to shoot nearly seven feet high.

Katherine Rinne, the author of the forthcoming “Walking Rome’s Waters,” calls this “the Hugh Hefner fountain” because of its cavorting naked nymphs. It rises in the middle of a busy major intersection. “If you are brave enough to face six lanes of horrendous traffic,” Ms. Rinne said, “you can dangle your feet in it on a hot day.”

Just don’t drink it. Today, the naiads frolic in water that is periodically drained for cleaning and maintenance.

If you are inspired to sip from the source, do as the Romans do and cup a hand under one of the nasoni (big noses) that spout from goose-necked spigots all over town. Two thousand years after Pliny lauded the Marcia as a gift from the gods, Rome’s aqueducts are still lavishing cold, clear spring water on the Eternal City.

Follow New York Times Travel on Instagram and sign up for our weekly Travel Dispatch newsletter to get expert tips on traveling smarter and inspiration for your next vacation. Dreaming up a future getaway or just armchair traveling? Check out our 52 Places to Go in 2024 .

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Travel | A road trip to Oklahoma, the path of totality,…

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Travel | a road trip to oklahoma, the path of totality, and making family memories.

We had expected that seeing a total solar eclipse in the path of totality would be the highlight of our trip. In hindsight, it was also the perfect excuse to be together, three generations on a simple road trip through five states.

On April 6, three of us set out from Lakewood — me, my 23-year-old son Ryan and 85-year-old mother, Mary — toward Oklahoma, near the Texas and Arkansas borders. We hoped to be in the path of totality, but were fully aware that the weather could thwart our goal. We were willing to risk it. We had other reasons for the trip.

Mom grew up in Healdton, Okla., a small town just west of the path that, incidentally, is the birthplace of the late “Golden Girls” TV star Rue McClanahan (who, also incidentally, lost a baby beauty contest to my Aunt Susie in the 1930s). Mom hadn’t been to this part of her home state in 60 years or so and has fond memories of Girl Scout camp near the Red River as a young tomboy nicknamed Missy.

Who knew if we’d ever have this chance again?

En route to the eclipse, we were chasing nostalgia, looking to experience Oklahoma through mom’s eyes, prompting her to reminisce, and determined to have our fill of Arbuckle Mountain’s Original Fried Pies. (They can now be found in Arkansas, Kansas and Texas as well, but we were aiming for the flagship shop in Davis, Okla.)

We were keeping the itinerary “loose,” travel-speak for “we didn’t plan the specifics of our trip well enough in advance.” The only hotel room we had booked was 96 miles west of our eclipse-watching destination of Idabel, Okla. We couldn’t find anything closer, but didn’t much care.

After all, committing to a five-day, 1,900-mile round-trip through Colorado, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas and New Mexico for a four-minute experience that won’t happen again within the United States for another 20 years is an act of optimism, and perhaps faith. Especially if the clouds refused to cooperate on April 8.

Let the adventure begin.

High hopes from the get-go

My car — a bright yellow Kia with license plates that by chance begin with the letters ECLP — was stocked with snacks (including four flavors of Moon Pies), our eclipse-viewing sunglasses, and a pack of toilet paper. (I had seen all the doomsday predictions about limited port-o-potties and local restaurants and gas stations running out as the roving millions invaded the path of totality like so many locusts.)

We weren’t even out of Colorado before we stopped, finding a charming coffee shop in Ordway, The Sand Cherry, along Main Street. I went a little tourist crazy, buying pastries, coffee, locally made jars of jam and homemade salsa, and some earrings.

It was starting to feel like a vacation.

Not long after, billboards began to sprout up along US 50 in Kansas: large, hand-written messages with “Jesus” and “God Is Real” on them. Here, the eclipse felt more like a wink from the Creator than an event scientifically studied and brought live to a television audience by NASA cameras and commentators.

Traveling Gen Z-style

Eschewing the finicky Google maps, Ryan brought an oversized Rand McNally road atlas to chart our journey and find routes other than the interstates we feared would be packed with eclipse-chasers and semi-trucks. This throwback approach rewarded us with well-paved but sparsely populated country roads from town to town showcasing gorgeous agricultural vistas and flocks of starlings moving in murmuration.

He also provided the soundtrack of eclectic music from the 1940s to the 1980s, contemporary alt, and upbeat Mexican pop music. Mom and I approved.

The occasional remains of an armadillo or raccoon that failed to make it across the road alive made us sad but also reassured us that those wild creatures are still out there. Ryan longed to see a pronghorn and I hoped to spot a fox or two.

When we reached Dodge City, Kan., we decided to stay at the Best Western North Edge Inn, where metal palm trees adorned a small swimming pool out front. We were delighted to discover the real trees surrounding the parking lot were a bird haven. Ryan’s Merlin Bird ID app recorded the chorus singing outside our room and came up with a list of nine: American goldfinch, blue jay, Eurasian collared-dove, European starling, great-tailed grackle, house finch, Mississippi kite, mourning dove and Western meadowlark.

We later spotted bright red cardinals whistling their distinctive calls, circling vultures, and white cattle-egrets living the dream near a fetching pond in a wildflower-speckled meadow that was spotted with cows.

The next morning, we headed for Oklahoma City and arrived just in time for burgers, beers and big screens streaming the NCAA Women’s College Basketball Finals. Watching Caitlin Clark’s dream of leading Iowa to a win over undefeated South Carolina slip away somehow seemed a bad omen for our hopes of a win over April showers. So irrational.

Nearly there

We arrived in Choctaw Nation on the eve of the eclipse just after sunset, content from a stop for a dozen fried pies with sweet fillings like cherry and pumpkin. A casino lit our way to a rather dismal hotel in Durant, but we toughed it out. We planned to check out early anyway, fearing a traffic jam of eclipse watchers would prevent us from reaching our goal.

The increase in humidity was noticeable the next morning as we rolled onto US-70 East. The slowdown we expected never developed, and we were treated to a lovely sunrise. Ninety minutes later, we found ourselves in Idabel, ahead of schedule and with six hours to kill before the eclipse. Clouds were building; we were willing them to take their time.

To my disappointment, the Museum of the Red River was closed. (I had hoped to see the Acrocanthosaurus exhibit and learn about Oklahoma’s state dinosaur.) We stopped at Accent Coffee Company, where baristas said they had served visitors from as far away as Hawaii in recent days. At a nearby T-shirt stand selling eclipse-themed merchandise, the excited proprietors mentioned meeting a guy from Germany who was a global eclipse chaser.

We looked up at the gray skies and hoped the German knew something we didn’t.

A nature hike seemed a good way to pass the time so off we went to Beavers Bend, a state park that skirts the shores of nearby Broken Bow Lake. I saw my first loblolly pine with its shingled bark; Ryan spotted a dead crayfish in a clear brook, which caused him to slip on a mossy rock into the water; and Mom took a minor tumble on the trail but luckily got back up unscathed.

By 11:30, about an hour before the eclipse would begin, we were feeling antsy so headed back toward Idabel and stopped for a quick lunch at The Oaks Steakhouse in Broken Bow. Several tables were filled with uniformed state police and local sheriffs’ officers. They were in good humor but wearing bulletproof jackets and checking their watches.

With the celestial event near, we decided the field behind the restaurant seemed an ideal place for viewing. As the minutes passed, the clouds thinned and thickened, teasing us with momentary glimpses of blue sky.

Family members in Colorado and Washington state began texting updates from their televised views starting in Mexico and moving up through Texas. We were about three minutes behind Dallas by this measure and the few clusters of people who had also parked and pulled out picnic blankets and unfolded camping chairs nearby began to settle down, don protective glasses and look up.

The big event

I fidgeted with my iPhone and attempted to use a device made to simultaneously look through one lens and take photos and videos through another side-by-side. I couldn’t get it to work and soon abandoned the clumsy thing.

Mercifully, the clouds continued to blow by. Car traffic stopped, a few airplanes buzzed overhead, and all birds but one obnoxious blue jay stopped singing. The temperature dropped and the sunlight dimmed, street lights came on, and we oohed and aahed and felt fortunate and amazed and suddenly so clearly aware of sitting atop the crust of a spinning planet with an orbiting moon that miraculously appears to be the same size as the much larger star beaming at us from 93 million miles away.

Unlike partial solar eclipses where the moon scoops a semicircle out of the sun’s shape like two flat plates, it became visible as a dark, three-dimensional sphere. As it traveled right to left, we marveled at the “diamond ring effect” before the last piece of sunlight beamed outward, and then — BLINK! — a solitary speck of bright light burning at the bottom, possibly a solar flare, was visible. The rest was the sun’s radiant corona framing the dark moon.

Spontaneous applause and shouts went up around us, with one woman repeating “Oh my God!” over and over. We removed our glasses (it was now safe to do so) and observed two tiny red lights race past, one after the other: satellites in Earth’s orbit. We could see Jupiter and Venus glowing in the middle of the afternoon. It was astonishing how dark it became in the moon’s shadow.

We stared at that moon until the diamond ring reappeared, and rather than replacing our glasses and watching the rest of the eclipse, strangely felt that that was enough. We noted the return of the sun’s heat and saw the dimness lift, the street lights blink off, the birds start up again. Car engines signaled our collective pause had passed.

We three looked at each other with mutual awe and happiness and agreed the effect had been better than expected. That full solar eclipse, despite all the anticipation and explanation, was a sight that will live on in our memories.

It also left us with gratitude for each other, and the willingness we each had to give in to the adventure of it all.

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April 22, 2024

Amtrak completes upgrades at durham station.

Customers will experience more accessible path to travel

WASHINGTON – Amtrak is excited to announce renovations at the Durham Station are now complete. The $1.5 million project to improve the station is part of the ongoing and companywide commitment at Amtrak to ensure a safe, efficient, and comfortable travel experience for customers.

The Amtrak Carolinian and Piedmont provide daily service to the station at 601 W. Main Street. The services are sponsored by the North Carolina Department of Transportation and operated by Amtrak and paid for through state funding and passenger fares. The trains operate between Raleigh and Charlotte, with the Carolinian continuing service to New York.

“Providing an accessible travel experience is a priority and we’re actively advancing construction, renovation, repair, and upgrade projects at stations across our national network,” Amtrak Vice President of Accessibility Dr. David Handera said. “We are pleased we delivered these improvements to the Durham station and for our customers and community.”

The renovation project included the installation of new doors and an automatic system for customers to enter and exit the station, and upgrades to the men’s and women’s restrooms. A new fire alarm system and signs were installed. A cane detection rail, a horizontal bar, was installed at the bottom of the ticket counter. The bar is detectable by a person who uses a cane, and it will alert them the counter is within their path.

Customers will access new accessible pathways extending from the parking lot to the station and platform, and accessible parking spaces. The station features new signs along the platform, parking lot and customer drop off area.

“The Federal Railroad Administration is excited about the upgrades completed at Durham Station, and we are proud of our work with Amtrak to ensure more Americans have access to the passenger rail service they need and deserve, which very much includes Americans with disabilities, our aging population, and others who rely on and benefit from accessible and convenient passenger rail,” FRA Administrator Amit Bose said. “As part of President Biden’s Investing in America agenda and with funding from the Bipartisan Infrastructure Law, the federal government is investing well over a billion dollars in rail projects and planning activities across North Carolina, and we will continue to invest even more across the country.”

Amtrak has invested more than $850 million since 2011 in accessibility upgrades and improvement projects at 120 stations across the national network to ensure a safe, efficient, and comfortable travel experience for customers with disabilities. The improvements include repairs and upgrades to platforms, ramps and sidewalks, and renovations to entranceways and restrooms, with 20 stations brought into compliance with the Americans with Disabilities Act last year. Another 35 stations are targeted for completion this fiscal year at a forecasted investment of $165 million.

Our program is advancing 140 station designs and 43 station construction projects as part of Amtrak’s ongoing commitment to providing accessibility by working toward 100% completion by 2029.

“Accessibility to everyone is an important part of the total passenger experience,” Jason Orthner, NCDOT Rail Division director said. “Working with Amtrak and local partners to ensure safe, accessible and convenient travel guarantee future growth and success of passenger rail in North Carolina and beyond.”

Senator Thom Tillis (R-NC)

“The upgrades at Durham Station will make North Carolinians experience traveling on Amtrak easier, safer, and more accessible,” Senator Thom Tillis said. “Amtrak’s investment in Durham is another example of their commitment to improving customer experience and rail service across our state.”

Leonardo Williams, Durham Mayor

“The Durham Station provides many of our residents an alternative mode of transportation across the state and beyond. I am excited about these renovations, as these upgrades will increase accessibility and enhance rail travel for those in need here in Durham,” Mayor Leonardo Williams said.

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For More Information

Kimberly Woods [email protected] Amtrak Contact 202 906.3860

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