trek singletrack

1990 Trek 950 Singletrack Restoration (2021 Update)

Six years ago, I started a project to restore, more like resto-mod, a Trek 950 that I found on Craigslist for $125. You can read more about the original build here .

My initial intent was not to do mostly short rides. However, I loved it so much, I started wondering about making the bike more capable and more modern while keeping the original good looks.

Upgrades I Made to the Trek 950 this Year

The updates that I made really changed the riding position of this bike. 4 inch rise on the handlebars, shorter stem, new saddle, new drive train. Prior to making these changes, it would be hard for me to ride past 2 hours on this bike. Now, it feels a bit more like an aggressive beach cruiser which is really fun and I like it!

The best rides are to the coffee shop!

(There are affiliate links below. These are products that I’m actually using. )

New Saddle. Brooks B17 Saddle . I always wanted to try this one. So far I like it. I’ll have to do a full review in the future.

Mone Meal Replacement Bars. Learn more here. These are sick. You gotta read the description on Mone site if you get a chance. This guy works magic and I love that they are hand made.

Sram 1x drivetrain

• Truvativ Bottom Bracket . This is a small upgrade over the square taper bottom bracket that I had installed in my first work on this bike. But allows for an affordable 1x crankset via SRAM.
• SRAM crankset – 32t . I love this option and have the same one on my Surly Karate Monkey.
• 9 Speed Chain . Always feels good to put a new chain on.

Shorter Stem. Wake 50MM

New Grips: Raceface Grips. These are surprisingly comfortable and feel amazing when riding.

Bikepacking Test Ride

After all this, I was able to get out for a super fun event where you bring nothing but a bike + $40 and plan for a Bikepacking night. We all rolled into Walmart at 9PM, loaded up on cheap blankets and hit a local campground. It was super fun. Knocked out 50 miles locally in a short/long day.

Bike Lights I’m using currently:

NightRider 1800 . This bike light has three settings and the lowest is sufficient for riding slowly on trails. The brightest is a luxury for shorter trips and on roads.

NightRider Cherrybomb 35 Taillight . This like is also so bright that when people ask not to ride behind me because it can hurt their eyes. Usually, I’m happy to ride in the back and make sure everyone is seen.

What’s missing from this Trek 950 Restoration?

Trek 950 original wheel set is holding me back from the future!

The original rear wheel is only built for a 7 speed cassette. I actually have 9 speed cassette modified into an 8 speed and this works with my 9 speed friction shifter from Microshift.

Riding up steel hill, there’s just not enough range with the 1x drivetrain. The next move will be to upgrade to a new rear wheel / hub and get a full 9 speed cassette on there.

I’ve looked into options with the standard Shimano/SRAM or potentially Box Prime 9. With the wheels being 26 inches, I probably don’t need a 50t cassette. 42 would probably be sufficient. I’m going to think on this, I’ll post an update when I make the move.

Potentially going up to a 34 in the front and putting a wider range in the back would be ideal and cover all the riding.

I’m currently on 2.0 inch tires. Going slightly wider would be fun, but there’s not a ton of room.

I’ve also considered converting to disc brakes. There’s pros and cons to that as well.

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What are singletrack MTB trails?

Riding singletrack is what sets mountain biking apart from other types of cycling

The most magical part of mountain biking is riding on singletrack trails. Imagine that you're in the forest, with trees and brush all around you. The soil is moist, offering perfect traction for tires to dig into. Or maybe you're in the desert. It's hot, but rocks and cacti outline a path through the rough terrain. 

No matter the setting, mountain bikers seek out singletrack. It's the whole point of our sport. After all, nobody wants to ride a mountain bike on the road. But what exactly is singletrack, and how does it differ from riding a MTB trail ? We're here to tell you, so keep reading. 

Singletrack vs trails 

Mountain bikers use the terms 'singletrack' and 'trail' interchangeably, but there is technically a difference. All singletrack are trails, but not all trails are singletrack. 

You'll likely have heard of trail mountain bikes , but of course trails have been around a lot longer than mountain biking or even cycling. The term trail is actually quite broad. Before cars and roads existed, people used trails to travel from one place to another. In the case of the European settlers traveling westward across America, trails like the Oregon Trail were rough wagon paths. So a trail is really any path that is not paved. 

In mountain biking, the least fun type of trail is fire roads or access roads. These simply dirt roads are great for gravel biking, they are often used by mountain bikers to access and connect sections of singletrack.  

In between fire roads and singletrack is double-track. Double-track trails are not quite as wide as a road but also not as narrow as singletrack. Double-track trails allow trail users to pass each other without having to get out of the way. 

That brings us to singletrack, which is a narrow trail. On singletrack, if people have to pass each other, one person will have to move out of the way to let the other by. There is no hard width limit for singletrack, but it is generally a foot in width (a third of a meter). 

Riding singletrack

As we have defined it, singletrack is essentially what a mountain bike trail is. So what might you find on singletrack trails? Features like rock gardens and jumps turn singletrack into a trail that is really fun to ride on a mountain bike. 

One of the most engaging parts of riding singletrack are the technical sections. A technical section is any part of a trail where you have to really focus on what line you take. Technical sections will often feature rock gardens and roots. There can be multiple ways to successfully get through a technical section, which can reward creativity and quick thinking as well as riding skill.

Singletrack trails may also feature challenging jumps and drops. If it's an expert-level trail, these features may be mandatory, but on easier-rated trails, there will be go-arounds so riders can work their way up to tackling difficult or consequently sections. 

Mountain bike trails may also have banked corners called berms . Berms help riders corner faster by providing support for the tires to dig into. More naturally built singletrack trails won't have berms. Instead, they will rely on the path of the trail to create flow. 

Some singletrack trails will be more natural, with minimal man-made features. For example, remote backcountry trails will be more naturally built. These types of trails will feel like somebody decided to simply rough in a path through the forest. Other trails are more man-made, with jumps and berms that are often built with machines. These are great fun, especially if you like flow and air time. 

The skills required for riding singletrack trails are the same as the basic mountain bike skills that everybody should learn and practice. One important idea is to practice looking ahead and anticipating what is coming up on the trail. This is especially important on tight, twisting, and technical trails. Check out our tips for beginner mountain bikers guide for more advice. 

Ryan Simonovich has been riding and racing for nearly a decade. He got his start as a cross-country mountain bike racer in California, where he cultivated his love for riding all types of bikes. Ryan eventually gravitated toward enduro and downhill racing but has also been found in the occasional road and cyclo-cross events. Today, he regularly rides the trails of Durango, Colorado, and is aiming to make a career out of chronicling the sport of cycling. 

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Trek 800 Review: Is It a Good Bike or Waste of Money in 2023?

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The Trek 800 is a popular mountain bike from the 20th century. It was first introduced in 1987, and production ended in 2003, so it’s an old bike.

The big question is: Is the Trek 800 a good bike?

Compared to modern standards, the Trek 800 is outdated. However, its benefits include simplicity, a quality steel frame, a wide gear range, and a low price. It’s possible to buy a used one for less than $100.

Do you want to learn more about this iconic bike? Let’s dive in!

Is Trek 800 a Good Bike?

Trek 800 was popular worldwide thanks to its simplicity, quality frame, and reliability. Unlike the Trek 4300 , it features a rigid fork.

It wasn’t cheap at a retail price of around $300, considering the average salary at the time.

It came in various sizes (13″, 15.5″, 17.5″, 19.5″, 21.5″…) and different colors, with slightly modified components each year.

Trek 800 was sold with rim brakes and in multiple options:

• Trek 800 Sport
• Trek 800 Antelope

However, details about their differences are not available. The Trek 800 Sport was also available in a step-through frame option, making it suitable for women and people with limited mobility.

The last generation of Trek 800 was released in 2003, and since then, it has been discontinued and replaced by newer models.

Pros and Cons of Trek 800

I summarized the pros and cons of Trek 800 below.

Pros of Trek 800

• Quality and sturdy steel frame
• Available for men and women
• Comfortable geometry, allowing upright riding position

Cons of Trek 800

• 26-inch wheels
• 3X drivetrain (2X and 1X became more popular thanks to their simplicity)
• Rigid front fork

The following section provides a detailed comparison of the features of the Trek 800 with those of modern mountain bikes . It will help you understand the advantages and disadvantages of the Trek 800 better.

Main Features of Trek 800

Let’s now dive deeper into Trek’s 800 components so you better understand its value.

Steel Frame

The frame is one of the most important components of any bike, and the Trek 800 featured a high-tensile steel and Cro-Moly frame.

Steel is a durable, affordable, and stiff material commonly used for low-end bikes .

However, the bike’s weight of around 13 kg (26 lbs) was pretty heavy, especially considering it had a rigid fork.

On the other hand, you didn’t have to worry about its durability because Trek 800 was designed to last and withstand a lot of abuse.

26-Inch Wheels

The Trek 800 was equipped with 26-inch wheels, which are nimble and allow for quick acceleration but are not as fast, stable, or comfortable as 27.5 or 29-inch wheels.

In today’s market, it’s rare to find adult mountain bikes with 26-inch wheels. They are primarily used for kids’ mountain bikes and dirt bikes.

The trend in the market has shifted towards 27.5 and 29-inch wheels, which are more comfortable, stable, and faster. They may not accelerate as quickly, but they have many other advantages.

The following video showcases the sprint of different bike types (and wheel sizes) over various distances. Keep in mind that their gearing may differ. However, the video effectively demonstrates the quick acceleration of smaller wheels (BMX vs. MTB).

The Trek 800 combined Shimano, SRAM, and other 3rd party components.

Interestingly, some components were supplied by other manufacturers, such as SRAM, which supplied cassettes, Suntour forks, and cranks.

The Trek 800 had a narrow handlebar, no front suspension, and a wide saddle compared to today’s standards.

Most Trek 800 models had a 3×7spd drivetrain offering 21 gears, while some had a 3×8spd gearing.

In contrast, modern mountain bikes typically use 2X or 1X drivetrains for simplicity, lower weight, and less chance of cross-chaining.

However, the Trek 800 had similarities to today’s hybrid bikes due to its rigid fork and geometry. Hybrids still use 2X or 3X drivetrains, providing a wide gear range for various terrains.

One of the main downsides of the Trek 800 was the rigid fork. The only “suspension” came from its wide, high-volume tires.

Riding through rougher terrain required more caution. The Trek 820 was a later model that addressed this issue by including a suspension fork.

Overall, the Trek 800 was best suited for paved, dirt, and forest roads without many bumps.

Trek 800 Specifications

Below, I summarize the most important technical specifications. Remember, they differ based on the year:

• Frame material: Steel
• Weight: ±13kg (29lb) depending on frame size, brakes, and year made
• Wheel size: 26-inch
• Brakes: Rim
• Groupset: Shimano Altus, Tourney
• Gears: 3×7spd or 3×8spd
• Colors: Differ based on the year

The Trek 800 is a budget-friendly mountain bike mainly produced in the last century. Despite its age, it still makes a good choice for those looking for an affordable MTB, thanks to its depreciation and low price.

Since it has already been discontinued, you may find good deals on websites like Craigslist or eBay. For a mint condition bike, aim for a price of up to $150; for a decent condition bike, look for a price under $100.

Additionally, you may want to check out Trek’s current mountain bike offerings. The Trek 820 , which also comes in a step-through option , is a mountain bike worth considering.

Trek 800 FAQ

If you’re searching for an affordable mountain bike , the Trek 800 is still a good option today. Look for one in mint condition for under $150 or in decent condition for under $100. Remember that it’s a mountain bike from the previous century, so it may not compare to today’s models, but it’s still useful for activities like commuting. For more information, be sure to read the entire article.

Trek 800 was made between 1987 and 2003.

Trek 800 weighs ±13 kg (29 lbs). Its weight differs based on its size and year made. Also, the Trek 800 with disc brakes is heavier than with rim brakes.

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1993 Trek 930 Singletrack SHX worth updating?

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So I'll be moving out of the city soon and hopefully able to get back into mountain biking. With 2 kids, job, etc...it's been hard to get and ride out living in the city. I used to race when I was younger and had taken very good care of my Trek and upgraded most of it. It's still at my parents house and I've been thinking of picking it up when we move. I know I need to to fix a few things, BB, shock elastomers, cables, lube etc. Just wondering if it's worth fixing or selling it and buying something new. I know I can fix the shocks from a vintage shock site that sells refresher kits. but the rest not sure on, for example anyone know what size BB this bike had? I know this needs to be replaced, brakes were cantilevers and since I'd be running all new cables was thinking of upgrading them as well as the wheels.  

Not worth a whole lot. Elastomers can be a *****. I'd do cables, lube. tires, etc and ride it for a while. If mountain biking takes, think about getting something newer then.  

If you don't have a bunch of cash to blow, that's a hard bike to beat. Double butted True Temper frame, STX components, it's a blue collar trail beast if ever there was one. If you have a bit of discretionary income, buy a better 100ish mm fork, replace what else doesn't work, put at least some V brakes on it, perhaps a disc on the new fork along with a new wheel, and beat the crap out of it. In a few years, you'll either want a new ride, and have saved for it, or you'll appreciate it for what it is, a great tool to relax and unwind, and say it's good enough. Too many folks out there thinking they need the latest thing to have fun......  

thanks for the info, I have a Manitu 3 on it now. would a 100mm fork work with the frame geometry? For $45 I can get new inserts for the shock as opposed to a few hundred for a new shock all together. thanks for the advice.  

dgoak said: thanks for the info, I have a Manitu 3 on it now. would a 100mm fork work with the frame geometry? For $45 I can get new inserts for the shock as opposed to a few hundred for a new shock all together. thanks for the advice. Click to expand...

trailville said: I think 100mm would be too much for that bike. Click to expand...

Between the two, I'd say 80mm too, especially for a 93. And you are more likely to find a nicer fork used than a 100mm. Between the three, I'd go rigid and get some fat tires on it. Maybe even single speed.  

MendonCycleSmith said: Not being argumentative here, but I'd disagree. A 150? Sure. that's a big old lever, but it'd handle 100 fine. It's a well built, sturdy, good name tubeset, etc. If he were a bruiser who wanted to dirt jump it, I'd concede to your point. In reading your thoughts though, I was struck with another thought. Simply pick up a travel adjustable version, It'd be in the 115 to 85 range, so you could find just right. I mentioned the slightly slacker 100 fork initially, as it will make the bike a bit more capable of handling the higher potential speeds going down hill, made possible by a fork that actually works Click to expand...

I'll third the rigid fork and fat tires option.. I also agree with Mendon on the comment about not needing the latest thing to have fun. A frame of that caliber would cost a whole lot more if it were being produced now, enjoy the classics because they represent value and quality we won't see again.  

If you have a bit of discretionary income, buy a better 100ish mm fork, replace what else doesn't work, put at least some V brakes on it, perhaps a disc on the new fork along with a new wheel, and beat the crap out of it. Click to expand...

momosgarge said: What quality forks could he buy that have adjustable travel and can be set for 80mm? I am also curious because I am tied up in the same kind of project. Click to expand...

Does anyone out there know what year the frame design switched on these trek 930's? I have a 1991 single track version with the lugged tubes and I was told the rigid fork is made to stay on and I cannot put a suspension fork on. I have seen later models with just modern day steel look to them but what year did trek switch?  

Check here... http://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/Default.aspx or here: http://www.mtb-kataloge.de/ Good luck! frog  

The only difference between the regular model and shx was the shx came with a suspension fork and 1994 looks like the frame changed. Could have been before that but it only shows back until 94'.  

I picked up what looks to be a stock 1993 Trek 930 SHX Singletrack at the flea market. After some online digging, I learned that this is a virtually bombproof bike, with solid Shimano Altus components. I'm a big fan of vintage bikes, especially lugged steel frames like this one has. Looks like the only real issue with this bike is the suspension fork. Not overly familiar with suspension forks (I'm originally a road bike rider), but looks like the fork is locked up. Any suggestions on how to proceed?  

PaulCoffeeFreak said: proceed? Click to expand...

It's the original Shockwave fork, and yes, the elastomers appear to be toasted. If I'm not mistaken, this fork only allowed 1.5 inches of absorption. How much room, and what kind of shock fork am I looking for? I don't plan to ride too aggressively, mainly tooling around with the kids, some singletrack, basically trying to get fit again. I've been out of the cycling loop for 5 years or so...what's a decent suspension fork for this bike run these days?  

like ameybrook said, rigid would be best.  

Go rigid....  

Yeah, that's the conclusion I'm coming to. Any suggestions on a rigid fork that will work with the brakes? I'm demonstrating my ignorance, but I think they're cantilever. It's the stock setup, because the triangular plate with the brake cable stop says TREK. Looks like it was made specifically for this fork. Ok, so...rigid. Next step?  

I see rigid 26" forks all the time at local shops that sell used bike stuff. There's also ebay and cl. TONS of forks out there. I really like the Ritchey Logic forks and those come up for a good price fairly often.  

The Ritchey Logic is a carbon fork, right? How well will they hold up under a Clydesdale? I'm not planning to do a bunch of jumping and real rough riding, but I see curbs and ditches in my future.  

I have the same bike. My understanding is that 94 was the first year with suspension corrected geometry. You will want a 395 MM fork with a 45 mm offset.  

Am I understanding you correctly that these measurements are for a rigid fork?  

No photo of your 930? A-la before & after.  

Soon as I can get them. I had to let the air out of the tires and remove the wheels, just to get it in the minivan. Didn't plan on buying a bike that day, don't you know. I haven't reassembled it yet, but plan to ASAP. Not really a fan of electric plum paint, but I couldn't ignore a solid Trek cro-moly lugged frame that was rideable. Especially not with the Rapidfire Altus shifters. Always liked those better than the gripshift.  

Ah, I understand now. No bike co-op that I know about, but 3 very solid reputable LBS nearby. I'm sure between the 3 of them, somebody's upgraded a stock bike, leaving the stock fork behind. I'll keep those numbers in mind, see what I can dig up. Hopefully this won't happen: If they try to talk me into a suspension fork that they've taken off something else, what do I want to avoid? Any sketchy suspension forks I need to know about?  

Pics coming as soon as I can get them uploaded!  

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Reader’s Rig: Nick’s 1991 Trek 970 Singletrack

Previous Dispatch From Thu Mar 28, 2019

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This week on Reader’s Rig, we scope out Nick Karwoski’s 1991 Trek 970 Singletrack, built up for trips around town from mostly repurposed parts. Find more photos and build details here…

My name is Nick Karwoski and I’m originally from Wisconsin but now live in Austin, Texas. I’m a recovered roadie who discovered touring first, then bikepacking. I try to get out on trips as much as my life allows, but end up commuting a lot more than touring.

I’d been interested in building up a a Trek 970 for a while and recently found a nice 970 XL frame at the right price, so it was time to take the plunge. My bike is a 22” 1991 Trek 970 Singletrack, mostly used for commuting, around town trips, and #coffeoutsideatx.

I salvaged a lot of the parts from a bike Co-op in Austin, used what I had lying around, and bought a few items on eBay. The bars are 1” Nitto Bullmoose attached to a Shimano STX 1 ⅛” headset with an adapter (I’m still alive). The bar tape is Serfas with .12 gauge shotgun shells for bar ends. The brake levers are Shimano Altus. The shifters are SunTour Power Thumb friction shifters. I used a Shimano Deore XT (M730) triple crankset with 9-speed XTR front (M953) and rear derailleurs (M952 Long cage). The wheels are Matrix rims, mystery hubs, a 7-speed cassette, and Compass Rat Trap Pass tires. The brakes are Tektro CR720s. The seatpost is a Velo Orange attached to a Fyxation Pilot saddle. I drilled out the fork crown hole (a tiny bit) to attach a Nitto M12 rack. The bag is a large Fabio’s Chest (the chest is the best!).

• Frame/Fork 22” 1991 Trek 970 Singletrack
• Rims Matrix 26″
• Hubs Unknown, the name has worn off!
• Tires Compass Rat Trap Pass
• Handlebar Nitto Bullmoose
• Crankset Mystery 7 speed cassette
• Cassette Shimano XT 11-46
• Derailleur(s) 9-speed SHimano XTR M953 (front) and Shimano M952 long cage (rear)
• Brakes Tektro CR720
• Shifter(s) SunTour Power Thumb friction shifters
• Saddle Fyxation Pilot
• Front Rack Nitto M12
• Front Bag(s) Swift Industries / Ultra Romance Fabio’s Chest

This bike really wants to you to stand up and mash on the pedals, just like the bikes you rode as a kid. All in all, this build was relatively inexpensive and fun to put together, and almost everything was reused. You can find it (and me) on #coffeeoutsideatx leisure rides in the ATX area.

You can follow Nick on Instagram at @bicycleexplorersclub .

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Trek singletrack 970: benedict’s trek 970 650b shred sled.

By: John Watson January 24, 2014

The 970, one of the last made in the USA, lugged MTB frames ever produced by Trek. In recent years, there has been a resurgence in interest for these bikes. Especially seeing as how a XO-1 can set you back a pretty penny. They’re Wisconsin-made, rugged and actually pretty lightweight, considering. Frames can be found on eBay for around $200 .

These bikes are one of the best options out there for those looking for to convert a 26″ MTB to a full-bore 650b Shred Sled. Which is exactly what Benedict began doing a few years back. After procuring the frame, he immediately stripped it, then acquired new decals and treated it with shellac.

Next up: the fork. He wanted to keep the frameset Wisconsin-made but needed an upgrade to replace the stock unicrown. Clockwork did the job for around $200 – a Pacenti crown, with a nice, classic bend to the blades. From there, it was pretty straight forward: Suntour Cyclone rear derailleur, XT front, XTR cranks, Suntour power thumb shifters, Nitto post, Brooks saddle, Tektro cantis, Bullmoose bars and some older 650b wheels a friend gave him. Oh and a Campy Record 10 speed chain, drizzled with garlic-infused, extra virgin cold press olive oil, because what else do you lube a Campy chain with?

Benedict’s added numerous personal touches to this bike. The Sackville bag carries his stealth camping gear, pipe and tools. Newbaum’s cloth bartape provides ample grip, protection against chain slap and an additional wrap on the brake lever ensures proper skids.

With all those details, most people would scoff at the thought of riding in Austin on it, with its rocky and technical trails, but little do they know, the captain of this shred sled is a master at roosting. Besides, he’s got a lucky penny on the fork crown!

I don’t really know what else to say about this bike, especially since the photos do the talking! See more in the Gallery!