whanganui journey

Whanganui Journey in New Zealand – The Ultimate Guide [2024]

• Last Updated: April 11, 2024

From rapids and canoeing to experiencing untamed nature firsthand these are just some of the things you’ll experience on your Whanganui Journey in New Zealand.

New Zealand has become a mecca for outdoor adventurers.

We’ve never been anywhere in the world where it’s so easy to get out into the wilderness independently.

Want to canoe down a beautiful and remote stretch of river for five days without a guide? Sure.

No experience in canoeing? No worries – the person you rent the canoe from will give you a few pointers before you set off. Sounds like your kind of adventure?

Here’s everything you need to know about paddling the Whanganui Journey, one of the nine Great Walks of New Zealand.

Don’t miss out on our complete guide to the  best hiking in New Zealand!

Table of Contents

Days required: 3 – 5

Best time to do the whanganui river journey, accommodation, canoe companies, what to pack for your whanganui river journey,  day 1: taumaranui to ohinepane, 22km (about 3.5 hours), day 2: ohinepane – whakahoro, 35km (about 5.5 hours), day 3: whakahoro – john coull hut, 37.5km (about 5.5 hours), day 4: john coull hut – bridge to nowhere lodge, 29km (about 5 hours), day 5: bridge to nowhere lodge – papriki, 21.5km (about 4 hours), introduction to paddling the whanganui journey.

Set in the heart of the North Island, the Whanganui Journey is a 145 km canoe trip down the Whanganui River.

The Whanganui Journey gained Great Walk status for being a significant Maori journey and it’s the only Great Walk where you can stay in a Marae (a traditional meeting ground and focal point for Maori communities).

Whilst the full 145 km journey takes five days, if this sounds like it’s a bit much you can paddle the most beautiful section in just three days (a total of 87 km).

There are a variety of huts and campsites (and even one lodge) that you can stay at along the Whanganui River Journey. You’ll also get to enjoy the scenery of Whanganui National Park.

If you like solitude you can choose campsites in Whanganui National Park that differ from the main route that most people take, which we’ll outline below.

There are a few companies who can organise everything including canoe hire, dry barrels for all your clothes and food, transfers to and from the ‘track’, and a full briefing on the route and conditions on the river.

Whilst the Whanganui River has a couple of notorious rapids (one nicknamed the 50/50 for obvious reasons) on the route it’s possible even for beginners to manage the full five days.

Until the Whanganui Journey, the longest we had ever kayaked for was two hours, so we definitely believe it’s possible for anyone with a sense of adventure to manage.

The majority of the Whanganui Journey is on flat, placid water or small rapids and you spend about five hours paddling per day.

You soon get into a steady rhythm and the time goes quickly as you take in the views on the Whanganui River and enjoy a truly unique experience.

Whanganui Journey Overview

You start from Taumarunui to do the five day version, or Whakahoro for the three day version of the Whanganui Journey.

The New Zealand summer is the best time for warmer temperatures and more stable weather (some companies stop operating in the winter, if you fall in it’s going to be freeeezing).

We’d recommend avoiding school and public holidays as they can get busy.

The official Great Walks season runs from 1 st October to 30 th April.

Costs for the Whanganui Journey can vary depending on which company you use. But – like most of New Zealand – it isn’t cheap.

Canoe hire starts at $190 NZD per person for the three day version and $205 NZD per person for the five day version (this includes barrels, transfers, life jackets, paddles, emergency beacon, maps and a briefing).

Most people stay in the DOC administered campsites and huts, although there are two lodge options for your second and fourth night if you choose.

The huts and campsites are fairly basic, with the campsites offering running water (which needs to be purified) and long drop toilets.

The huts offer these as well as gas stoves and bunks.

The cost is between $20 – 32 NZD per person per night (with camping being the cheaper of the two) between October and April.

If you want to treat yourself on the last night of the Whanganui Journey there is also a gorgeous lodge with hot showers and free homemade muffins.

We were so happy that we decided to go for a bit lux after four solid days paddling, two of which had been in torrential rain.

Less people know that you can also stay in the Blue Duck Station on night two if you would like a private room.

Make sure you have a high-quality, lightweight backpacking tent with you for camping during the Whanganui Journey.

There are a couple of cafes along the way (day one and two), but aside from that you will need to bring all of your food.

This can be packed in barrels that are tied to the canoe, you’ll need food that will keep outside of a fridge for up to five days.

We’d recommend cereal bars or porridge for breakfast, snacks for lunch and packet food like pasta for dinner (we enjoyed pesto pasta with cheese for dinner most nights).

Three companies can help with the logistics of the Whanganui Journey and there’s not much difference between them.

We chose Whanaganui River Canoes based in Raetihi, but alternatively, there’s Tauamrauni Canoe Hire in Taumraruni or Yeti Canoes in Ohakune.

Which company you choose may depend on which area you want to stay in before and after your adventure which was our reason for choosing Whanganui Rivers Canoes.

The first two days of the Whanganui River Journey have a succession of pretty fast rapids, but there is only one where you might get thrown out.

We came close but managed to just about stay in, so falling out is still quite unlikely.

The third and fourth days are as flat as they come, minus one whirlpool at the beginning of day three.

We did see someone tip here but apparently this isn’t common.

The final day has exciting rapids. There are two at the very end of the Whanganui River Journey which are so bumpy that 50% of people come out of their canoe.

However, most of the faster rapids are narrow, meaning you can paddle to the side and avoid the worst of them if you want to (but then you’ll be missing out on some of the fun!).

• Food: Breakfasts, lunches, dinners, snacks, and tea/coffee
• Toilet Paper (none of the huts and campsites have this)
• Gas burner and matches for the campsites
• Drinking water – at least for the start. Afterward you’ll need to boil some water or use purification tablets
• A camping kitchen set – pot to boil, plate, cutlery, and mug
• A warm sleeping bag (even in summer it can drop to single digits)
• Battery pack to charge camera batteries
• Ear plugs/headphones – You haven’t experienced snoring until you’ve stayed in a DOC hut
• Sun cream and insect repellent
• Rubbish bags – All that you take in, must go out with you
• Wet wipes – To keep a semblance of hygiene

 The Whanganui Journey Itinerary

Not too many people choose to do the five-day version, skipping the first two days and starting at Whakahoro.

This means you’re likely to have these stretches of the Whanganui River all to yourself, and that makes it pretty special.

The first day of the Whanganui River Journey is short, but it certainly lets you start with a bang.

The Great Walks guide describes it simply as “a day of rapids”!

We were novices when it came to canoeing, so were pretty nervous about even controlling the canoe, let alone navigating the rapids.

In the first four bends, you face two pretty turbulent rapids that throw you around, baptizing you in the Whanganui River.

After the initial bumps, things get a bit easier and more straightforward.

There are plenty of fast rapids on corners to keep the excitement up and you’ll do well if you don’t get stuck in the eddys (the other side of a rapid which flows in the opposite direction to the river, spinning you around).

It’s fair to say we spent a fair amount of time on days one and two spinning uncontrollably but always being spat out in the end!

The Whanganui River here is primarily through the farmlands and rolling hills, it feels like you’re gliding through Hobbiton.

It’s a fun stretch of paddling with some beautiful landscapes that are punctuated with some rapids for excitement.

A top tip is to look out for the lavender farm (there is a small sign) on the right-hand side of the Whanganui River, around 18 km in.

There’s a small sandbank to moor at and a stairway leading up to the farm.

They have a coffee shop here which makes for a blissful break.

They don’t accept foreign cards, so make sure you bring cash.

The homemade muffins were delicious.

After 3.5 hours of paddling you’ll make it to Ohinepane Campsite.

The local chickens are a little over-friendly and will be pecking around your tent most of the night before waking you up first thing in the morning! It’s a lovely spot though, with a small cooking area and toilet.

The second day may have changed recently, but when we paddled (in April 2018) there had been a huge storm that created many slips in the area.

This meant that trees had come down from the tops of the valley into the Whanganui River, creating more obstacles.

This may have changed since, but be prepared for this section to have more obstacles than the maps will show!

As you set off, you’re faced with a biggish rapid to ease you into the day!

The rest of the day will have quite a few rapids to speed you along and keep things interesting.

You pass by a lot more beautiful scenery and you feel like you are beginning to head away from civilization.

The second half of the day is the section that leads to Whakahoro and requires the most attention as several trees have fallen into the river and lodged there.

This in turn created rapids that flowed through them and – if you’re not careful – could take you straight into a tree.

You’ll need to be prepared to paddle very hard as soon as you see them.

The day finishes at Whakahoro: a campsite and bunkhouse that is 400m up a steep hill!

Lugging the barrels up had just about everyone cursing the location, but once there it is a truly gorgeous spot.

However, the biggest reward is the Blue Duck Station, a guesthouse where you can pay for a hot shower ($4NZD) and dig into piping hot food (including bacon and egg brekkies) and hot drinks.

Pop along as soon as you can as the dinner (served communal style) does require booking.

It’s just a few minutes from the campsite to the Blue Duck.

The Whakahoro is the best campsite on the Whanganui Journey, set on the top of a cliff among farmland looking down to the Whanganui River. It’s a really picturesque vantage point.

  Day three is where the scenery steps up a gear as you enter the Whanganui Gorge and the start of the Whanganui National Park.

This is when all road access stops and you truly enter the wilderness of the national park.

Immediately you’ll be dwarfed by huge cliffs on either side of you, the only sounds are that of your paddle and the early morning bird song.

Whakahoro is where most people start the Whanganui Journey, choosing to avoid the rapids of the first two days.

However, those rapids were good training for what will be coming on day five!

The section from Whakahoro to John Coull is not just very picturesque, it is also an incredibly calm section of the river.

At points we chose to stop paddling entirely, drifting in complete silence and taking in our surroundings in the national park.

If you’ve had rain there will be plenty of waterfalls on this stretch.

The only obstacle to navigate is a whirlpool that aims to propel you into a cave!

So long as you paddle hard and wide, you’ll be ok.

We tried this and cleared it safely (well, apart from being spun backward).

As the river is very still, day three requires a lot more paddling and effort than the first two.

It is only when you have a completely still river that you realise how much the fast-flowing rapids actually helped!

This is the first point that you can choose to stay in a hut rather than camping.

Want another paddling adventure? Check out our post on  kayaking in Abel Tasman National Park!

  Day four was our favorite day of the whole Whanganui Journey.

There’s a chance to stop at the mysterious Bridge to Nowhere, the scenery is stunning and if you decided to treat yourself, there is the Bridge to Nowhere Lodge (more on that later).

The day started with two hours of heavy rain (standard in NZ) paddling through the thick soupy water to the landing for the Bridge to Nowhere walk.

We’d recommend going early as this is a popular day trip in the area (you can take a jet boat to it from a town further up the river), so you’ll want to avoid the crowds and be able to find mooring for your canoe.

After a short walk, you’ll get to the Bridge to Nowhere –quite literally what it says on the tin. It’s a remnant of a project to bring access for vehicles to the Whanganui River and aid the building of a settlement for returned soldiers from the First World War.

However, the land was not conducive for farming and settlement, and it was abandoned.

The bridge remained, it’s now covered in ferns and regenerated bushland.

It’s a really spectacular sight and not to be missed.

You can walk across it or take it in from the viewpoint above.

We really enjoyed getting out of the canoe and exploring this area.

Just make sure you bring some shoes that do well in mud. Flip-flops would be tricky along this path after rain.

After the Bridge to Nowhere it’s a gentle three-hour paddle to your accommodation for the day.

If you go with the DOC choices, you can camp or stay at a traditional Marae.

Here you can experience a glimpse of the indigenous culture of New Zealand.

Whether you get a traditional Maori greeting depends on their plans for the day, it didn’t happen on our trip, but we’ve heard it often does.

On the opposite side of the river is the Bridge to Nowhere Lodge.

Tucked on the top of a hill, this place has a stellar view.

But even better, it has hot showers, private comfortable bedrooms and – best of all – a bar!

After four days paddling, we thought a glass of wine was well deserved.

You can also get a homemade dinner (we cooked for ourselves as the dinner was pricey) and breakfast.

It was pure bliss.

There’s a lounge with board games and books to read so it could be quite a social place depending on who’s there at the time.

The final day of the Whanganui River Journey is a short stretch of river before hitting the two roughest rapids of the whole journey, and the ones that throw out 50% of people who attempt them.

The day starts out on calm river again, before reaching Ngāporo where the first big rapid is.

The rapids are just before the campsite and you can choose to plow straight through the middle for the ultimate adventure or round the outside for the least chance of capsize.

It’s not long before you hit the second rapid.

We watched two really keen canoers go head on into the rapid, and were soon tipped out into the river!

Having lost to the rapid they swam to catch their canoe and spent the next five minutes bailing water out, they were in the unlucky 50%!

Once more, you can choose to go through it, or paddle wide and through the safer section.

There’s a final rapid that is just before the landing at Pipriki and is another fun one to navigate.

If you do it right, you can get propelled to the finish, barely having to paddle!

By the time you arrive at Pipriki you’ll have paddled 145 km of the Whanganui River through the beautiful New Zealand countryside.

The Whanganui River Journey is an epic adventure, and one we loved the fact you are able to go it alone without a guide.

Don’t miss this canoe journey and the most unusual of the Great Walks of New Zealand.

If you haven’t quenched your thirst for Great Walks, you can attempt the  Tongariro Northern Circuit  which is only 30 minutes away. This is a Great Walk through volcanic landscape and incorporates the Tongariro Crossing – which has been described as one of the best day walks in the world.

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Hi, We’re Alesha and Jarryd!

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The Guide to the Whanganui Journey

Support nz pocket guide and get our huge ebook collection to access our tips on the go, everything you need to know about the whanganui great walk.

Paddle your way in the shadows of towering river gorges which hold back thick native forest as you take on the Whanganui Journey. This 145km (90 miles) river trip is unique among the 9 New Zealand Great Walks because, well, it doesn’t involve much “walking”. Gliding down the Whanganui River in a canoe or kayak is one of the only ways to explore this extremely remote part of the North Island, the Whanganui National Park .

What makes the Whanganui Journey so unique, also, is that it is the only Great Walk where you can stay in a marae overnight – just an example of the spiritual and cultural relationship the Whanganui Maori have with the river. What’s more, travelling down the Whanganui River is like travelling back in time with so much natural and undisturbed scenery. That’s with the exception of the famous Bridge to Nowhere engulfed in the ever-growing native New Zealand forest.

So take a look at the guide below to plan your trip into the heart of Whanganui National Park along the mighty Whanganui River.

Important Things to Know Before You Go

• Book your place in the huts and campsites well in advance if doing the journey between 1 October – 30 April. During the rest of the year, the huts and campsites are on a first-come-first-served basis.
• Hut accommodation is only available between Whakahoro and Pipiriki. If you start the Whanganui Journey from Tauramanui or Ohinepane, you will need a tent.
• There is no phone service on the Whanganui Journey.
• Once you pass Whakahoro, you have to complete the Whanganui Journey. (There’s no turning back or stopping your trip mid-way).
• Take everything you will need on the journey with you – there is nowhere to shop of supplies once you are on the river. (Obviously, you knew this, but just in case your common sense is lacking…)

How Many Days of the Whanganui Journey Should You Do?

Although we recommend doing the entire length of the Whanganui Journey, time, money for longer equipment hire, and your access to camping equipment may restrict how many days of the Whanganui Journey you do.

5 Days – Taumarunui-Pipiriki

This is the option for those who don’t want to miss a thing! The 5-day trip includes the most adventurous section over 46 river rapids that you will not get to experience if you cut your journey short. To do the full 5 days, you’ll need to start from Taumarunui. You’ll also need camping equipment, as there are only campsite accommodations for the first 94.5km (12 miles).

4 Days – Ohinepane-Pipiriki

Starting from Ohinepane, this allows you to take a detour up the Ohura River to Ohura Falls, that you would otherwise miss if you took 3 days. You’ll need camping equipment for the campsites, as the nearest hut is 72.5km (45 miles) away from Ohinepane.

3 Days – Whakahoro-Pipiriki

This is the most popular option for those who just want to see the scenic middle section of the journey, which also includes a 45-minute hiking detour to the famous Bridge to Nowhere. There are also a few rapids to glide down towards the end of the journey. Plus, those who do not have camping equipment can choose to stay in the two huts.

How to Get to the Whanganui Journey

Because the Whanganui Journey is a one-way trip, you’ll have to arrange transport to an arranged pick-up and drop-off point. The canoe hire companies often organise transport to and from the Whanganui Journey access points listed below. Transport and equipment hire can be arranged from companies operating in Ohakune, National Park Village, Taumarunui, Whanganui, Raetihi.

If you are organising your own transport, with a friend or WWOOFing hosts for example, then follow the directions below to get to the Whanganui Journey.

Taumarunui is the access point to the Whanganui Journey if you are wanting to do the entire 145km (90 miles) of the Whanganui Journey. For those organising their own transport, access to the river from Taumarunui is at Ngahuinga (Cherry Grove).

Ohinepane is accessed from Taumarunui and is an access point for the Whanganui River a little further downstream. From Taumarunui, drive to the end of River Road 43.

To shorten your trip on the Wanganui River to 3 days, use the access from Whakahoro . Getting there requires a lengthy drive down a winding gravel road. From Owhango on State Highway 4, follow Oio Road then continue on the gravel road all the way to Whakahoro. Alternatively, from Raurimu on State Highway 4, follow Raurimu Kaitieke Road all the way to the end and continue on the gravel road to Wakahoro.

Pipiriki is your final destination on the Whanganui Journey. Transport should only be arranged as a pick-up point only. To get there from Raetihi, off State Highway 4, take the Pipiriki Raetihi Road all the way to Pipiriki.

Equipment to Take on the Whanganui Journey

As the Whanganui Journey is a canoe journey like no other in New Zealand, you’ll need to have some specialised equipment. There are plenty of companies hiring out this equipment in the Whanganui National Park’s surrounding towns and villages: Ohakune, National Park Village, Taumarunui, Whanganui and Raetihi.

When booking your equipment for the Whanganui Journey, make sure it includes:

• Canadian canoe or kayak
• Paddles (including a spare)
• Plastic drums to store and keep personal items dry
• Life-jacket

For personal items, such as clothing, food and more, be sure to check out How to Prepare for a Great Walk in New Zealand and the Department of Conservation website .

Accommodation on the Whanganui Journey

The Whanganui Journey Great Walk is serviced by two Department of Conservation huts and 11 campsites. For both camping and the huts, you will need a sleeping bag. You must book in advance to use these accommodation facilities between the dates of 1 October – 30 April. No booking is required outside of this season. Remember to take some cash to pay for accommodation as you go. There is usually a box to leave your payment.

If you intend to camp on the Whanganui Journey, you will need your own tent. Be aware that if you are starting the Whanganui Journey from Taumarunui or Ohinepane, campsites are your only accommodation option until the John Coull hut south of Whakahoro.

Campsites facilities include:

• Cooking shelter
• Water supply
• Toilets (bring your own toilet paper)

Learn more about campsites at Camping in New Zealand .

When starting the Whanganui Journey from Wakahoro, you can avoid camping by staying in the two huts: the John Coull Hut and the Tieke Kainga Hut (which is also used as a marae ).

Both huts are serviced with:

• Bunks with mattresses
• Heating (bring matches or a lighter)
• Gas cooking stoves

How to Prepare for the Whanganui Journey Great Walk

Don’t set off on your canoe trip without checking our these articles to help you prepare for your Great Walk!

• How to Prepare for a Great Walk in New Zealand
• Outdoor Safety When Hiking in New Zealand
• Camping in New Zealand

The information in this guide has been compiled from our extensive research, travel and experiences across New Zealand and the South Pacific, accumulated over more than a decade of numerous visits to each destination. Additional sources for this guide include the following:

• Tourism New Zealand (General travel advice - Updated [2024])
• Adventure Mark (Health and Safety Audit - Updated [2024])
• Work Safe NZ (Adventure Activities Guidelines - Updated [2024])
• Department of Conservation (Tracks, hikes, campsites and more - Updated [2024])
• AdventureSmart (Know before you go - Update [2024])
• NZ Māori Tourism (Official Māori Tourism platform - Updated [2024])
• Tourism Export Council New Zealand (Tourism trade association - Updated [2024])
• TIA (Independent tourism association - Updated [2024])
• Tiaki Promise (Care for people place and culture - Updated [2024])
• Council websites and freedom camping maps (Local travel advice region by region - Updated [2024])

Our editorial standards : At NZ Pocket Guide, we uphold strict editorial standards to ensure accurate and quality content.

About The Author

This article has been reviewed and published by Laura, the editor-in-chief and co-founder of NZ Pocket Guide. Laura is a first-class honours journalism graduate and a travel journalist with expertise in New Zealand and South Pacific tourism for over 10 years. She also runs travel guides for five of the top destinations in the South Pacific and is the co-host of over 250 episodes of the NZ Travel Show on YouTube.

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Whanganui Journey: Multi-Day River Paddling In National Park

Whanganui river journey - great walk on a canoe.

The Whanganui Journey is the only  New Zealand Great Walk  that can be done only by paddling, instead of tramping on foot. The journey takes place on the scenic Whanganui River through the remote Whanganui National Park. Good fitness and confidence paddling a canoe are essential for the Whanganui Journey. Also, you need to know how to swim!

Getting To/From The Whanganui River & Where To Start Your Whanganui Journey

The Whanganui Journey has multiple start points along the Whanganui River, depending on your skill level, and the distance and number of days you plan to paddle on the river. The journey moves downstream and ends at Pīpīriki. These are the typical starting points you can choose:

• Whakahoro to Pipiriki (easy, 87km, around 3 days): A great option for beginner paddlers. You have more time to familiarize yourself with controlling the canoe before entering any rapids. Also, you will start in the most beautiful and scenic part of the river, so no worries about missing out the scenery from upstream.
• Ohinepane To Pipiriki (intermediate, 123km, around 4 days): Suitable for paddlers who have had some experience and want to see more of the river. You will start in a shallower and faster section of the river. Moreover, you will cross rapids on your first day, before reaching the calmer section at Whakahoro.
• Taumarunui (Cherry Grove) to Pipiriki (hard, 145km, around 5 days): Recommended for experienced paddlers who can paddle around obstacles confidently. This is the full stretch of the Whanganui Journey and it starts at the shallower and faster section of the river.

It is a one-way journey down the river. So, unless you own a canoe/kayak, and have someone to drop off or pick you up from the river points, hiring a canoe with shuttle bus service is a no-brainer.

Whanganui Journey River Canoe Rental & Shuttle Service

The best service provider I found is the local family-owned  Whanganui River Canoes . The team knows the river very well and that’s very important for the safety of paddlers. They closely monitor the weather conditions and river levels to ensure it is safe before putting paddlers on the river. Furthermore, their Old Town Discovery 169 Canadian Canoes and equipment are of high quality and in tip-top conditions.

In addition to canoe hire, it also comes with shuttle service (plus secure car park and storage) to and from the river start and ending points. Life jackets, river maps, waterproof storage barrels & box, and one personal locator beacon (PLB) device for each group are provided. At the end of your trip, you’ll be welcomed with drinks, snacks, and a hot shower!

Note: Due to safety reasons, Whanganui River Canoes do not put solo paddler on the river. You need to have at least two pax to make the booking. Furthermore, the trip is very much weather dependent: If the river is deemed unsafe for the dates of your booking, you have the option to change the date. Else, a full refund and cancellation will be given to you for your canoe hire and DOC accommodation bookings.

Whanganui Journey Great Walk Booking

All  Great Walks in New Zealand  require booking in advance for the huts and campsites. Off-site camping is not allowed on the Great Walk tracks. Here is the  DOC online booking site  for all Great Walk accommodations. Since it wasn’t as busy as the other great walks and it wasn’t during peak season, I got to make the bookings close to the dates of my trip.

Other than the great walk bookings, you should also sort out the canoe hire and shuttle service (explained above) and the accommodation for the day before your great walk (to be explained below).

Oh, and before you book all your huts / campsites from DOC, you should know there is an alternative place to stay on your last night of the Whanganui Journey. Check out the luxury yet wild  Bridge to Nowhere Accommodation . The place offers a lodge (optional catered buffet dinner and breakfast), cabins and campsites, with hot showers, cook house & BBQ, and even a fully licensed bar! And guess what, the price for the cabin is the same as the DOC’s Tīeke Kāinga hut at the opposite side of the river, and the campsite is a dollar cheaper than Tīeke campsite, all with these luxuries you don’t get at DOC accommodation!

Things I packed for Whanganui Journey

• No hiking backpack this time as my things are packed in the provided waterproof barrels that fit nicely on the canoe.
• Forclaz Trek 100 3 Seasons Dome Tent  (heavier than most tents but very good wind resistance and waterproofing)
• PTT Outdoor’s  HIGH PEAK Easy Travel Sleeping Bag  (coupon code “MEOW” for RM10 off first time purchase with min RM100, within Malaysia only)
• TOMSHOO sleeping bag liner
• Inflatable mattress & pillow
• Quechua Hiking Raincoat
• Sun Protect long-sleeved running tee  + Quechua Hiking Fleece Jacket +  Quick dry running shorts  +  Kiprun running socks  (for the day)
• Ski base layers top + pants + warm hiking socks + gloves from  Decathlon  (as sleepwear)
• Extra  down jacket  (didn’t use but important to bring, just in case)
• Sandals (since there’s not much walking on track, the waterproof  Adidas Kampung  is also a good option)
• Flip flops (for walking around campsites / huts)
• Gloves to prevent blisters from paddling
• First Aid Kit , Compass & Whistle
• Rechargeable headlight
• Phone (with booking confirmation pdf file), powerbank & charging cables
• Food and snacks (muesli, crackers, canned creamed rice, apples, energy bars, bread and jam), paper towels, rubbish bags
• Water bottles (2-3L)
• HydroBlu lightweight waterfilter
• CuloClean portable bidet , some toilet paper
• Toothbrush, toothpaste, hand sanitizer, soap, hair brush
• Fire lighter (for emergency, useful for lighting fire wood if staying in a hut)
• Folding scissors

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The Day Before: Raetihi Holiday Park

R aetihi Holiday Park  is owned by the same company as Whanganui River Canoes. It is also the place where the shuttle picks up paddlers in the morning to the river. At the end of your trip, the shuttle will take you back to the holiday park with ‘welcome back’ drinks and snacks. Safety briefing is done here in the afternoon/evening, the day before the trip, but it is possible to arrange to have the briefing at 6.30am in the morning of your trip, or to arrange an online briefing if you cannot be there a day before your trip.

We (me and a friend from Germany whom I met working together as horse catchers/walkers during our New Zealand working holiday period) stayed at the unpowered campsite in the holiday park the day before our paddling trip. The  Forclaz 2 Person Dome Tent  I brought for this trip is quite spacious to fit both of us.

Whanganui Journey Day 1

As both of us considered ourselves as beginner paddles, we opted for the 3 days, 87km option, beginning our Whanganui Journey at Whakahoro. It turned out to be a very chill, no rush journey. We did this in the beginning of summer (early December) so it wasn’t too hot or cold.

Whakahoro to John Coull Hut (37.5km)

The shuttle left at 8am and it took around 1.5 hours to reach Whakahoro starting point. After some canoe steering, rapid maneuvering, docking and rope tying instructions, we began our canoeing trip around 10am. On a 2 person canoe, the front paddler is the ‘power engine’ to push forward, while the back paddler controls most of the steering. We took turns and switched positions each day.

There was another big group doing the same trip with us, so we decided to stick together with them. Turns out, they are a cheeky kiwi group of friends who had done the whole Te Araroa Trail (tramping the whole New Zealand from end to end) except for this part which they couldn’t do due to bad weathers. Now, they returned here to fill this gap to finally complete 100% of Te Araroa Trail.

(During this trip, we actually paddled really slowly as we waited for the other group. We tried paddling as slow as we could, but somehow the group still got left behind. So most of the time we didn’t really paddle and just let the river carry us forward, which we found out that’s what the other group was doing haha, and that wasn’t a bad idea! Even with this very chilled pace, we had more than enough time to reach our destinations.)

The water level was a little higher due to the recent rain. Overall, paddling downstream along the Whanganui river was very chill and easy. Most of the time, we just let the calm water current slowly push us forward, paddling every once in a while to straighten our canoe.

The river flows in between the beautiful green-clad Whanganui gorge. Notice the bare plantless river banks? That’s how high the river could rise during heavy rainfall!

Many mini waterfalls along the way.

These waterproof blue barrels are provided together with the canoe to store our things. In case of capsizing (which we didn’t, fortunately), our things will stay dry. They can be secured onto the canoe, or to be taken out to the shores or campgrounds during docking.

Mangapapa Campsite

11.50am: We docked at Mangapapa Campsite to have our lunch break. Some sand flies around.

Campground shelter and rain water supply.

Two experienced kayakers stopped by.

We continued paddling at 1.15pm. This photo wasn’t an actual rapid but I couldn’t take photos of the rapids we went through as both of us needed to focus and paddle with both hands through the rapids. Mostly, the rapids we encountered were mild and easy to handle. There is only one rapid that poses a challenge, they called it the ‘50/50’ (50% chance you’ll get through nicely, 50% chance you’ll fall into the water haha). However, you will only encounter that 50/50 rapid on the last day, at the very last section before you dock at the ending point.

The technique for rapid maneuver is to steer into the middle of the ‘ Ʌ ’ shape whitewater flow (so the canoe doesn’t get pushed by the current from the side), try to paddle faster than the river flow (so the canoe doesn’t get turned around by the water pushing from behind), while keeping the canoe as straight as possible.

Sacred Tamatea’s Cave

2.07pm: After passing the Tarepokiore (whirlpool) rapid, you will find a large overhang known as Tamatea’s Cave, named after a Maori explorer. It is a sacred place and one shall not enter the cave.

3.29pm: Signage of John Coull Hut. Each signage along the river tells you the distance and also on which side you need to dock, so you have the time to paddle towards the correct side of the river bank, as it is difficult to paddle right across ‘horizontally’ with the river flowing downstream. If you somehow, accidentally missed the docking land, it is tricky and tiring to paddle back against the flow, so be aware of the docking sites.

John Coull Hut & Campsite

3.43pm: Docking overnight at John Coull Hut and campsite. We secured our canoe to a pillar, unloaded the barrels and carried them to our campsite.

John Coull Hut

John Coull Campsite, where we set up our tent. It is interesting to see all the different shapes and sizes of everyone’s tent.

Hanging out with the group after dinner.

There is a spot behind the camp shelter that you could possibly see glow worms at night. At dusk, there is also the possibility to spot New Zealand’s only native land mammals, pekapeka (short-tailed and long-tailed bats), fluttering overhead around the area. With the pouring rain, however, we gave up and decided to stay dry in our tent, hoping the river wouldn’t rise too high, or else we would have to wait for it to recede and might get stuck at the campsite for a day or two.

Whanganui Journey Day 2

John coull hut to tīeke kāinga / bridge to nowhere lodge (19km).

Next morning, we were delighted to see a clear sky. The rain had stopped and the river condition was excellent. A couple of ducks were hanging around the campsite.

9.40am: We departed John Coull campsite for our onward journey.

Paddle through more of the steep bush-covered hills.

10.59am: Some kind of ‘rock ceiling’ formation by the river bank.

11.01am: More mini waterfalls

12.05pm: Still sticking with the big group.

Side trip: Bridge To Nowhere - The Valley Of Abandoned Dreams

12.29pm: We docked at Mangapurua Landing for the track access to Bridge To Nowhere, an easy side trip done on foot. The landing was steep and can be slippery when wet. Disembarking and embarking the canoe can be tricky, especially when it’s congested with other canoes. Graciously, with the teamwork from everyone, we docked successfully with no issue, hopping from canoe to canoe onto land.

We had our lunch break by the river before entering the track to Bridge To Nowhere at 1.09pm.

Felt good to be in the shade surrounded by trees after paddling on an open river all the time.

1.40pm: Tall vertical cliff wall. Not a place to linger due to rock fall hazard.

1.45pm: The Bridge To Nowhere. It took us 40 minutes of casual walking from the landing to the bridge.

The abandoned Bridge To Nowhere stands as the only intact reminder from a bygone era, a symbol of that ill-fated settlement in an area known as the “valley of abandoned dreams”. The lands around here were offered to soldiers who returned from WWI, under the Discharged Soldiers Settlement Act 1915. From 1917, veteran settlers took up land here on the promises of roads and access. There were around 40 families at the height of settlement, building new lives in the Mangapurua Valley. However, the land itself proved to be rugged and isolated. In 1942, there were only three families left. With nature working against these grand plans, everyone had gone by 1944, walking off from the valley empty-handed, penniless, some after over 20 years of back-breaking toil.

As for the story of the bridge: The early settlers had to cross the Mangapurua Stream by scrambling down and up the gorge walls. First a wire cage, then a suspension bridge, were built to improve accessibility, but fell into disrepair. In accordance with this, plans were established to build a dray bridge. Engineers discussed the type of bridge suitable for the area, but no one questioned the need for a bridge at all.

The construction of this ferro-concrete style bridge used 105 cubic meters of concrete and 15 tons of steel. With near-impossible access to the site, cartage expenditure was nearly equalled the cost of construction. Although impressed with the bridge, settlers presumed it was to advance the long-promised road access, they themselves had little use for the bridge by the time it was finally constructed.

Below the bridge is the Mangapurua Stream. We spotted a few giant eels in the stream. (If you look closely at the photo you could spot them. Easiest to spot is the one at the bottom right, a long black figure in the water. The sky reflection and raindrops made it hard to see in the photo.)

Tīeke Kāinga / Bridge To Nowhere Lodge

We spent more time chilling on the river and also docking onto some random banks. At around 5pm, my friend and I arrived at Bridge to Nowhere Lodge.

The other group stayed at Tieke Kainga Hut & Campsite, which is on the opposite bank as you can see in the photo above. (Tieke Kainga is a unique place that functions as DOC’s great walk hut and campsite, but also is a functioning Marae, a Maori meeting ground. It could offer a unique cultural experience to visitors as you may be invited to participate in a welcome ceremony if whānau are present.  Find out more about Tieke Kaing here .)

For us, we chose to stay at Bridge To Nowhere Campsite. It has hot showers! The lodge owner greeted us and told us that we were the only two people staying here tonight, some groups left yesterday, and a huge crowd will be checking in tomorrow. What luck!

Near the tent sites is a well sheltered cook house with BBQ, gas and water supply.

If you want something more of a luxury stay, the lodge is for you (catered breakfast and dinner buffet available too).

Kid not, Bridge To Nowhere Lodge has a full licensed bar, in the middle of nowhere!

A luxury place surrounded by nature.

The lodge owner offered us to stay in one of the huts since it’s empty, but we decided to sleep in our cozy tent instead. What a view!

Whanganui Journey Day 3

Tīeke kāinga / bridge to nowhere lodge to pipiriki (21.5km).

Waking up to this view!

9.17am: After breakfast, we rejoined the group from the opposite bank as planned, and headed our way for our last day of paddling.

More mini falls

11.50am: Never run out of interesting landscape on the banks of Whanganui river. Before it gets too chilled, we occasionally encounter exciting rapids to paddle through.

Amazingly, we managed to shoot through the ‘50/50 rapid’ (Paparoa rapid for the actual name) without falling over into the river. It is the last and the biggest rapid to encounter, right before arriving at Pipiriki ending point. We landed at Pipiriki at 12.40pm.

Lastly, the shuttle picked us up and took us back to Raetihi Holiday Park, where drinks and snacks awaited.

Have this guide helped you? Tag @meowtainpeople in your hiking stories & posts!

*Captain Planet passing by*  Remember, please take care of our environment, and please don’t destroy the Nature. Leave no trash behind and take back only photos and memories (and also some trash if you can). Walk on the designated path and stay in the middle as much as you can, so that the exposed soil doesn’t spread/corrode further. BE ONE WITH NATURE  *flies away*

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Guide to the Whanganui Journey in New Zealand

The Whanganui Journey is one of New Zealand’s Great Walks , but it doesn’t actually require any walking. This canoe or kayak journey down the Whanganui River is great for groups of all ages and sizes.

The Whanganui River carves through the lush rainforest in one of the most remote locations in New Zealand. Cut off from civilization, the river cuts through deep gorges and stunning scenery. There are many campsites all along the river, which allow your trip to last between three to five days.

Read all about our trip down the Whanganui River to help you plan your own trip!

Content and photographs provided by Yana Kogan and Timon .

Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. If you make a purchase or booking through one of our links we may earn a small commission (don’t worry, it’s at no extra cost to you).

Where is it

The Whanganui is in a dense rainforest between Tongariro and Taranaki. It is about two hours southwest of Rotorua on the North Island. With very few roads to access this river, kayak rental companies are located near Taumarunui and Whakahoro.

Best Season to Visit 

The Great Walk season is from October 1 – May 1. During the season, the huts and campsites require prior bookings. In season, huts have cooking stoves and a resident hut warden. Out of season, huts are first come first serve with discounted rates, some without cooking stoves.

Campsites are all basic with a long drop toilet and shelter unless located near a hut.

How Many Days to Visit

The Whanganui Journey can take anywhere from three to five days. You have the chance to extend the tours up to ten days. We recommend three days which will allow you to explore the best part of the river, starting in Whakahoro and ending at Pipiriki.

For more details on hut locations, distances and maps, check out the DOC website for the  Whanganui Journey .

How to Book Your Trip

The Whanganui Journey will require booking in advance. A booking with a kayak or canoe hire is required, which comes with transportation to and from the river. You must book campsites/huts online prior to the trip.

We recommend booking a trip with  Taumarunui Canoe Hire . They are a family-run company offering canoe and kayak rentals. We felt they provided some of the best services in all of New Zealand. Contact Karen or Ron via email at  tm [email protected]  or by phone at 0800 226 6348.

Booking a campsite or hut can be done online. The cost of huts and campsites varies depending on if you visit during the Great Walk season or out-of-season, and can be booked online . There is also a private campsite across from Tieke Kainga called Ramanui, which can be booked directly with Taumarunui Canoe Hire.

Our Whanganui Journey

Distance : 62.6 miles / 100.6 kilometers Time : 3 Days (17 hours paddling)

From Whakahoro to John Coull campsite: Distance : 20.7 miles / 33.3 kilometers Time : 5 hours 20 mins

This day has the biggest change of scenery, going from a nice scenic river with surrounding hills into a deep canyon within the national park.

From John Coull campsite to Ramanui campsite: Distance : 26 miles / 41.8 kilometers Time : 7 hours

Day two is the most scenic of the 3-day journey and is in the heart of the national park. A little over three hours paddling from John Coull is the Bridge to Nowhere and a one-hour walk into the bush to visit the famous bridge.

Finish the afternoon paddling to either Tieke Kainga or Ramanui campsite.

From Ramanui campsite to Pipiriki: Distance : 15.9 miles / 25.5 kilometers Time : 4 hours, 45 mins

The last day of paddling to Pipiriki is the shortest day but comes with the most excitement. This day has several rapids and is fun to navigate with a large chance of getting wet. It requires some hard paddling and is lots of fun.

Day Hike Alternative

Jet Boat Tours to Bridge to Nowhere would be the best way to experience the Whanganui within the National Park and get a taste of the scenery in one day. Going to the Bridge to Nowhere takes you into the middle of the park and will also provide some interesting historical context to the region and the bridge itself.

You can book a tour through  Whanganui River Adventures .

Important Things to Know

• Rain occurs in this region often. Be prepared for rain at all times.
• There are several rapids that are novice rapids but can still tip the canoe, especially towards the end of the journey. You will get a chance to get wet with the potential to flip the canoe.
• Gas burners are available at all huts and available for use by tent campers.
• Water is available at each hut. Water is not filtered and you can filter/boil for your own precaution; however, hut water is almost always drinkable in New Zealand.
• A 60L barrel and five 30L barrels are provided for your gear. This is more than enough space for tent gear, clothing, food, drinks, and all supplies.

That’s it – we hope you enjoy your Whanganui Journey!

Planning a trip to New Zealand? Check out our favorite books and travel guides!

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Yana & Timon met at college in Boston, Massachusetts. After graduating, they started their professional careers. They moved to San Francisco in 2010, a city they loved living in for nearly six years. After working and saving up money for several years, they quit their jobs and set off on an adventure of a lifetime. They started living a nomadic lifestyle in December 2015 and have not looked back since.

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Canoeing   |   Manawatu-Wanganui   |   New Zealand

Guide to the fabulous whanganui journey great walk, text   |   anninka kraus photography   |   tobias kraus.

The Whanganui Journey in the Central North Island is New Zealand’s only Great Walk that masquerades as a walk but is a 3- or 5-day paddling adventure on the Whanganui River.

With road access to only three points on the river, Ohinepane, Whakahoro, and Pipiriki, and no cell phone coverage anywhere on the journey, this is a wilderness area covered with indigenous podocarp rainforest so dense, untouched, and remote, we were surprised to find it even in New Zealand.

At Whakahoro, the starting point of the 3-day journey, the river, on its 290-kilometre voyage from Mt Tongariro across the Central Volcanic Plateau to the Tasman Sea, enters into a series of narrow gorges cloaked in lush greenery.

For three days, you can expect to see nothing but a soothing monotony of endless river bends and occasionally another double canoe in the customary red colour. There are no roads, buildings, or farms.

I imagined the serenity of sitting in the gently rocking hull of our canoe, at the foot of a magical waterfall tumbling down the steep-sided canyon walls and listening to kereru and tui call out from the bush would get boring.

But of course, it didn’t. The foaming rapids that passed us straight into the ripples of a swirling eddy and the landings we almost missed did spice things up.

We had little previous canoeing experience, and after a rather brief instructions and safety briefing ( your life depends on not hitting any hidden snags , was all I took away), I’m amazed we made some of those landings.

I still wonder what happens to people who’re equally inexperienced and less lucky and drift downstream, indefinitely through the night. I’m also surprised we didn’t capsize when the river, as it gathered speed, turned our canoe sideways, and we then drifted backwards through a churning rapid with rocks placed all around us just so as to catch most of the driftwood and a few of the unlucky paddlers. I guess we were lucky.

Accommodation options include 2 DOC huts and 11 campsites spaced out along the journey, which must be booked in advance during the Great Walks season. If you seek a little more comfort, the Bridge to Nowhere Lodge across the river from Tieke Kāinga offers private rooms and meals and runs a campsite with hot showers a hundred metres upstream from the lodge.

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• Whanganui River Journey Canoeing Itinerary

• New Zealand Hiking & Walking Tours
• New Zealand's Great Walks
• Whanganui River Journey

Tour Overview

Day by Day Itinerary

Ohakune to john coull hut.

Trip departs Ohakune between 7.30 and 8.00am for the river. At Whakahoro, canoes and barrels will be unloaded and you guide will show you how to pack your canoe. There is time for some practice before starting the adventure on the river.  As you paddling away from the last road access at Whakahoro, the gorge narrows down. Then the trip will pass Laceys and Wades landings and several old maori Kaianga (villages). Later in the morning you will pass Mangapapa campsite, Man of War Bluff, Kirikiriroa where the river does a huge horseshoe turn, the Verandah, the Whirlpool and on down to Tamatea's Cave and a possible lunch stop at Ohauora campsite. Camp at John Coull Hut and campsite.

Meals: Lunch and dinner

Accommodation: John Coull Hut - 1 night

John Coull Hut to Bridge to Nowhere Lodge

The morning will be start with a hearty breakfast and then aim to be on the river at 9am. This morning trip will go past the Tangarakau and Whangamomona rivers, Mangawaiiti campsite, and Otumangu landing - one of the post WW1 faming settlements. Shortly afterwards you will be able to see the first pine trees since Whakahoro (planted by the early settlers), and stop at the Mangapurua for lunch and a walk to the Bridge to Nowhere (45 min each way). Dinner be served at the Bridge to Nowhere Lodge where you will also be able to take a hot shower and sleep in a comfortable bed.

Meals: Breakfast, dinner and lunch

Accommodation: Bridge to Nowhere Lodge - 1 night

Bridge to Nowhere to Ngaporo

After a tasty breakfast we will take a walk to the Matemateonga track and up to the Puketotara hut. We will have magnificent views of the environment and we will be able to spot Mount Ruapehu. After returning to the lodge we will go back on the river for a short paddle until lunch. We pass the Kahura landing and one of the locations for the filming of "River Queen". It is an hours paddle through the steep gorge until the river cascades through Ngaporo rapid and down to Ngaporo - which is our final campsite.

Meals: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner

Accommodation: Ngaporo Campsite - 1 night

Ngaporo to Pipiriki

After breakfast you will paddle past the Mangaio stream and Mangaio rock where several of the early eyebolts can still be seen that were winching points for the riverboats. From Autapu rapid there are several small rapids before the Paparoa rapids swings the canoes past the old eel traps and down to the landing at Pipiriki. This is where the journey ends on river. You will be returned to Ohakune. 

Meals: Breakfast, and lunch

• Transport to and from the river
• Full instruction
• Canoes, life-jackets, and waterproof storage barrels
• Waterproof camera case
• Sleeping mats
• Camping equipment
• 2 casks of wine per group

Although canoeing is much easier than tramping, you will enjoy your trip more if you are reasonably fit. The river is big and does not have a strong current which is why it is suitable for everyone. Carrying the gear up the riverbank is the most physically demanding task, however, with teamwork this is easily accomplished.

Extra information

All the guides are trained first aiders. They usually carry mountain radios on in case of an emergency. Cellphones do not work on the Whanganui river.

Pricing terms

The price is based on current exchange rates but is only an approximation. Please contact us for a final price

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Whanganui Journey

The Whangnaui Journey is an official New Zealand Great Walk - paddle on an epic journey through deep gorges and past cascading waterfalls, the Whanganui Journey is a magical experience for all ability levels.

Sparsely populated and vastly wild, the majority of New Zealand's longest navigable river is an untouched, natural wonderland. Keep an eye out for plump Kererū (wood pigeon), as they crash in and out of the foliage, feasting on the abundance of wild berries. If you are lucky, you may see the Pekapeka (long-tailed bats) fluttering overhead at dusk. The rare whio (blue duck), the Tūī and New Zealand's iconic Kiwi make the most of the abundance of natural resources in their home along the banks of the Whanganui River. There has been a noticeable increase in birdsong since Kia Wharite, a partnership to protect some of the region's precious taonga (treasure), began in the Whanganui National Park in 2008.

With mist parting the valley floor as you slowly drift through time, the Whanganui River is a mystical place steeped in a rich cultural and spiritual history. You can visit Tīeke Kāinga (a Maori settlement) and learn about the intimate connection that Whanganui Iwi (local tribe) have with the awa (river). For something a little different, you can take a break from the water at Mangapurua landing and walk to the iconic Bridge to Nowhere . Lost deep in the forest and completely isolated from civilisation, this lonely concrete bridge was built for returned World War 1 servicemen to reach a now-abandoned settlement.

You can easily book your canoe trip down the Whanganui River. For multi-day journeys choose the 5-day journey from Taumarunui to Pipiriki (145 km), or the shorter, 3-day journey starting at Whakahoro (87 km), featuring the most scenic stretches of the river. There are also sections of the Great Walk that can be done as day or half-day trips, so everyone can experience this majestic river experience.

PLAN MY WALK

Book your adventure now!

Whanganui Journey Guide

Whanganui River

The longest navigable river in New Zealand, it traverses over 200km of countryside in its winding journey through the Whanganui National Park to eventually meet the Tasman sea

Whanganui National Park

A rich history threads through the bounty of natural wonders and adventure activities on offer in the largely secluded Whanganui National Park

Canoe or Take a Jet Boat on the Whanganui River

Experience the beauty of nature as you paddle down the Whanganui River. Choose from a range of operators who provide one day tours or multi day tours

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