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point cruz yacht club honiara

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Point cruz yacht club, honiara – salomonische inseln (en).

That’s where everything began! That’s where we first saw and fell in love with our sailing boat “Marianne”. We spent 3 wonderful weeks anchoring at Point Cruz Yacht Club in Honiara. We quickly signed the bill of sale, before Paul, the old owner, could change his mind…

The owner of the bar Merry introduced us to Matt who immediately invited us to his home where we recorded our first artist – George.

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Solomon islands historical encyclopaedia 1893-1978.

Corporate entry: point cruz yacht club.

The new clubhouse of the Point Cruz Yacht Club in Honiara was opened by its Commodore, High Commissioner Sir Robert Foster, on 15 August 1964. ( NS 1 Aug. 1964)

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Related natural phenomena, published resources.

• British Solomon Islands Protectorate (ed.), British Solomon Islands Protectorate News Sheet (NS) , 1955-1975. Details

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• Explore Guadalcanal Province

Explore beyond Honiara in Guadalcanal

Home to the largest island in the solomon islands, guadalcanal province hosts the national capital, honiara. but also a smattering of cultural sites, well-preserved wwii relics, modest beaches, and a lost world to explore..

With well-preserved WWII relics along the northern coast, beautiful beaches, and remote retreats, Guadalcanal also offers fantastic diving at Iron Bottom Sound, the famous undersea graveyard where dozen of WWII wrecks have lain since 1942. Just off the northern coast, the island has the genuine look of a lost world. The hills behind the capital consist of a mighty mountain range rising to 2400m remains untamed and raw with a tropical rainforest climate.

War and History

The Guadalcanal campaign, also known as the Battle of Guadalcanal began on 07 August 1942 and lasted until February 1943. It was the first major land offensive by Allied forces against the Empire of Japan and during those seven months, 60,000 US Marines killed more than 20,000 of the 31,000 Japanese troops on the Island, a tremendous loss on all sides. The major objective of the fighting was a tiny airstrip the Japanese were building at the western end of Guadalcanal. The airstrip, later named Henderson Field, would become an important launching point for the Allied air attacks during the Pacific Island-hopping campaign.

Things to do

World War II Tours

There are many battle sites and relics of the war found in and around Honiara. Places of interest to visit include  Bonegi Beach, Henderson Airfield, Vilu Museum, Red Beach, and Betikama Museum.

• Birdwatching

The major birding site of Mount Austen is just a 45-minute drive outside Honiara. A morning here can be very rewarding with sightings of Solomons Cockatoo, Yellow-bibbed Lory, Cardinal Lory, Buff-headed Coucal, perhaps Guadalcanal (Woodford’s) Rail, and Claret-breasted Fruit Dove. Mackinlay’s Cuckoo dove, Ultramarine Kingfisher, Brown-winged Starling, Long-tailed Myna, Chestnut-bellied Monarch, Cockerell’s Fantail, and Midget Flowerpeckers can also be seen with luck.

The Botanic Gardens in the main town are also worth a look - Duchess Lorikeet and Black-headed Myzomela are two of the more common species to be seen.

The Betikama Wetlands are also rich in birdlife and well worth a look.

There is a number of dive sites along the western part of Guadalcanal, including the famous WWII sites at Iron Bottom Sound and Bonegi Beach. Local dive operator Tulagi Dive is very experienced with all dive sites and the best ‘go-to organisation for divers looking to explore Guadalcanal’s underwater world.

Local guides can be arranged fishing trips around Marau Sound in eastern Guadalcanal and good fishing spots can also be found around the river estuaries of north-western Guadalcanal

Surfable waves can be found at the western end of Guadalcanal. It needs a two-hour, 40-minute drive from Honiara but is worth the journey during the wave season. Olotsara Retreat organises surfing tours – ask Tourism Solomons for more information.

Treks and Adventure

If a waterfall fan, there are a number of inland treks that will take you to the best cascades in Guadalcanal -  Matanikau cascade, Tenaru Falls, and Barana Waterfalls. Note a local guide is essential for such trips. These can be arranged through local villages or with assistance from the Tourism Solomons office in Honiara.

Events & Festivals

Guadalcanal Second Appointed Day

The Second Appointed Day marks the establishment of the local Provincial Government for Guadalcanal Province and is celebrated with an annual public holiday celebrated with sports, speeches, and processions.

Guadalcanal Weaving Festival

Part of the Guadalcanal Second Appointed Day festivities and an excellent opportunity to engage with Guadalcanal culture and an event featuring demonstrations of traditional weaving from all over the province, the annual  Guadalcanal Weaving Festival attracts hundreds of locals and visitors alike keen to engage with Guadalcanal’s culture.  and discover more about the lifestyle, history and rich culture of the Guadalcanal people, an element that shapes their way of life.

Where to Stay

There are various accommodations types on offer in Guadalcanal with options ranging from resorts, guest houses, budget lodges, bungalows right through to the hotels of the capital including the Pacific Casino Hotel, the Heritage Park Hotel, the King Solomon Hotel, the Honiara Hotel, the Solomon Kitano Hotel and the recently opened Coral Sea Resort & Casino in the heart of town.

Tavanipupu Wellness & Spa Retreat is located in Marau Sound, the eastern part of Guadalcanal Province. A privately owned 5-star island resort in the South Pacific. Only 25 minutes east by plane from the Solomon Islands capital of Honiara.  Another resort nearby, Milk Fish Resort is located at Marapa Island that offers 2 en-suite bungalows.

Food and Drinks

These days there is a surprising variety in good quality restaurants and cafes in and around Honiara with many catering to ex-pats.

• Central Market, located on the main road, is a great source of fresh fruit and vegetables. Fish and chips, as well as uncooked fish, are sold there.
• The Lime Lounge is located along Commonwealth Street serving coffee, cakes, burgers, and sandwiches.
• The Taj Mahal (Located downtown). Has good Indian and Sri Lankan food
• Point Cruz Yacht Club. The favored hangout of ex-pats in Honiara, the yacht club has a variety of simple and inexpensive meals available nightly.
• Palm Sugar (located at the Art Gallery) offers great coffee, burgers, soup, and many more
• Other suggestions include Heritage Park Hotel- Hadyns, IBS Restaurants, Garden Bar & Restaurants ( Pacific Casino), Coral Sea, Break Water, and Mambo Juice Bar. 

Getting around

Local motorised canoes travel from Marau Sound along the weather coast to Honiara. There are irregular shipping services from Honiara to Marau Sound. MV Haura shipping runs weekly to Marau Station. Some buses services operate from Honiara to the Eastern (GPPOL 3) and western (Lambi) of Guadalcanal Province.

Travelling around Guadalcanal Province is a once-in-a-lifetime experience and an insight into a way of life that had remained unchanged across the years. Come explore Guadalcanal Province. 

Tours and Activities

Kokonut pacific tour.

Visit and see the production and manufacturing of one of the Solomon Islands largest exports, the coconut. The people behind Kokonut Pacific produce oils, soaps, creams and much more. Join them for a 3-hour guided tour of their facility.

Honiara City Tour

Discover the capital of the Solomon Islands and surrounds on a tour of the city. Vist Point Cruz, the Coast Watchers Memorial, the Honiara Central Market, China Town, the US War Memorial, National Parliament, the National museum and more.

Island Day Tours from Honiara

Board a boat at Point Cruz to travel to the Central Province to see the area's famous World War II historical sites. Visit Gavutu Island where the Japanese built a big wharf during the war and Tokyo Bay where many Japanese War ships rushed to try to avoid being bombed by American Armed Forces. Savo Island tours are also available.

Waterfall Tours in Honiara

The hike up to the Mataniko Falls takes between 1-2 hours and begins from Lili village, behind New Chinatown and approximately 10-15 minutes from Honiara. The spectacular Tenaru Falls is an hour's drive and a three-hour hike from Henderson Airport. These two hikes will give you an appreciation of the terrain and what the Allied and Japanese soldiers went through during World War II.

Tulagi Dive

Iron Bottom Sound was the scene of some of WWII's biggest naval battles. It is the channel between Guadalcanal, Savo and the Florida islands and is the resting place for over 50 Japanese and Allied warships and fighter planes, hence the name "Iron Bottom". Noteable dives around Honiara include Hirokawa Maru, USS John Penn, and Kinugawa Maru. For the more experienced diver, try out the Aaron Ward in the nearby Florida Islands, the only diveable destroyer.

Battlefield tours in Honiara

Some of the most brutal World War II battles took place on the northern face of Guadalcanal. Visit Bloody Ridge, Red Beach, the Vilu War Museum, Betikama school relics, the American War Memorial, Tetere beach, The Thin Red Line, Honiara golf course (previously a US Airstrip), and the Japanese War Memorial (Mt Austen). Tours of both the Western Battlefield and Eastern Battlefield are also available.

Attractions

National museum and cultural centre.

The National Museum is modest but still worth a visit, for a taste of the history of the Solomon Islands. With exhibitions that traverse history and the diverse cultures that make up its almost 1000 islands, you can view old photographs, currency, weaponry and find out more about the history of World War II and the missionaries, both of which are core to the current national identity and way of life.

Savo Island from Honiara

Sunset Lodge on Savo Island is roughly an hour by boat from Honiara. It is from here experienced local guides will take you on a tour to Honiara's nearest active volcano. Savo is also known for its Megapode birds and eggs, a small bird that squeezes out eggs three times the size of a standard sized chicken egg. Perfect for a day trip or an overnight stay. For accommodation bookings, contact: +677 72 38977.

Bonegi Beach

Bonegi Beach is a haven for divers and beachgoers. Two Japanese freighters (Hirokawa Maru and Kinugawa Maru) bombed by the allies are beached right in front of the Bonegi stretch. They are the most dived wrecks in the country and are excellent for both beginners and more experienced divers due to proximity to the shore and the amazing coral and fish life that have made the freighters their home.

Accommodation

Heritage park hotel.

Centrally located, the Heritage Park Hotel is in an outstanding position for both business guests and leisure travellers who want to explore the attractions on offer in Honiara and its surrounds. The property is on the waterfront and with views from the bar out to the islands, especially breathtaking. All rooms are modern and exceptionally comfortable. The property is accessible by car from the airport.

Coral Sea Resort & Casino

With a traditional exterior and modern interior, the resort is focused on ensuring its guests are kept relaxed with a sun drenched pool entertainment area, outstanding bar and restaurants and ocean views over Honiara Harbour. The property is an oasis in the middle of the city and its styled rooms and villas will not disappoint. The resort is close to the CBD and accessible by car from the airport.

Solomon Kitano Mendana Hotel

The hotel is an excellent choice in Honiara with its fantastic location, spacious rooms and friendly environment. Enjoy Hakubai Japanese restaurant with fresh authentic choices from the menu or you can head over to Cowboys Bar and Grill which is a hotspot of an evening. The hotel has cool refreshing pool, evening entertainment and activities for kids. The hotel is accessible by car from the airport.

King Solomon Hotel

The hotel is centrally located in easy walking distance to the Solomon Islands Cultural Museum, banks, cafés, and shopping. The property has 73 rooms, many self-contained and suitable for long-term accommodation. There is an infinity waterfall pool, nightly entertainment, and a great view of Iron Bottom Sound.

Pacific Casino Hotel

With 142 spacious, comfortable, and airy rooms on the waterfront, enjoy all the amenities on offer. The kidney-shaped pool is a delight or enjoy a meal and cocktail at one of their dining venues. The casino is also a draw with its many games including crowd favorites Roulette and Blackjack and accessible by car from the airport.

Tavanipupu Spa & Wellness Retreat

This quaint property boasts having had British royalty stay. The grounds are manicured to perfection and handcrafted bungalows are richly appointed with all the comforts one desires. Enjoy a relaxing massage or laze away in the crystal clear water. Tavanipupu is accessible from Marau Airport, a 25 minute flight from Honiara.

Parangiju Mountain Lodge

This traditional property is hidden in the hills located in Central Guadalcanal. Amongst the rainforest, about an hour's drive from Honiara, enjoy the spectacular views, food, and local hikes. Tenaru Falls and the Bat caves are a very popular hike and a worthwhile three-hour round trip.

Ginger Beach Retreat

Gingers is 20km from Honiara, perched on the beachfront and surrounded by lush green jungle. It is a great place to relax in clean and comfortable traditional style accommodation done well. This is a great getaway for a destination wedding or group holiday and tours can also be arranged.

Sanalae Apartments

This boutique accommodation is located in a quiet setting 3 kilometers from the Honiara city centre, featuring self-contained apartments, ideal for business travellers and long term guests, as well as motel-style Garden Rooms. Light refreshments are offered at Reception for convenience.

Iron Bottom Sound Monarch Hotel

Located on the beachfront, 10 minutes walk from shops and services, this hotel features 30 guestrooms with garden views including standard rooms, studios and self contained apartments. All rooms are air-conditioned. Monarch Bar and Grill serves buffet and grilled dishes with live music each night.

Rock Haven Inn

An older style accommodation for those wanting affordable accommodation and a central location. Motel-style rooms with fans or air-conditioning, family units, and apartment-style with many offering sea views are on offer. There is also a restaurant on-site offering breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

Milk Fish Bungalows

Located on the island of Marapa in the Marau Sound, and accessible via boat transfers from Marau Airport, Milk Fish Resort offers the ultimate setting for a relaxing getaway, simple, comfortable bungalows in natural surroundings with meals provided daily, waterfalls, treks, and small islands to explore on their doorstep.

Roderick Bay Beach Bungalows

Located in the stunning Sandfly Passage, Roderick Bay Beach Bungalows all overlook the wreck of the cruise vessel World Discoverer which was ran aground there and offers incredibly unique snorkelling and swimming experience. With 3 self-contained bungalows, village visits and a zip line from the World Discover itself, there is lots of fun to be had during a getaway.

B17 Dive & Beach Bungalows

Located about 40 minutes drive North West of Honiara, the accommodation offers self-contained beachfront bungalows with shared facilities and activities including swimming, snorkelling, scuba diving, Noni farm and village tours. In close proximity to the US B-17 Flying Fortress bomber after which the accommodation is named, it is the perfect location for divers, or for those who wish to simply relax.

Dolphin View Beach Guesthouse

This lesser known guesthouse is a quiet, relaxing place and named due to the dolphins that gather off the shore. With comfortable accommodation and shared facilities in Aruligho, guests can enjoy sea views, a barbecue, and the on-site bar in natural surroundings. Activities include snorkelling, canoeing and dolphin tours.

Anna Sherchand

Solo Female Travel Blog

3 days in Honiara itinerary Solomon Islands

Firstly, when traveling to the South Pacific islands in Oceania, you have to be careful in planning it because the flights are usually once a week so if you miss it you will be stuck there for another week. So, after solo traveling to Papua New Guinea and spending 3 days in Port Moresby , my next stop was Honiara in the Solomon Islands. If you are thinking about going, here is 3 days in Honiara itinerary to help you plan.

The reason why I visited only the capital cities is because I don’t dive so no interest in exploring the outer islands and I live in Australia which means when I travel I don’t want to be chasing beaches as we have tons at home. Plus limited and expensive flights as well as being time-poor made me settled on those few days but you know what, it’s better to be there for a few days focusing on 1 place than being there and spending 1 day on each island or not being there at all.

With that said, I was super anxious about visiting the Solomon Islands because of the remoteness and lack of internet with that. But it all went down smoothly in the end. So if you are a little worried, I hope this 3 days in Honiara itinerary with the hidden gems, and must-see attractions, plus my solo travel tips to Honiara, give you some reassurance that if I can do it, so can you!

Nestled on the northern coast of Guadalcanal Island, Honiara stands as the vibrant capital city of the Solomon Islands. Known for its rich cultural heritage, pristine natural beauty, and intriguing history, Honiara offers a captivating blend of experiences for travelers seeking an authentic South Pacific adventure. Let’s delve deeper into the wonders of Honiara, where tradition meets modernity in a truly unique way.

• 3 days in Honiara itinerary

Day 1:  Breakfast

2. visit the national museum, 3. visit the national art gallery, 4. visit unity square which is the paficif’s tallest flagpole, 5. grab lunch at the cafe bliss/ palm sugar/bethel cafe, 6. central market, 7. honiara botanical gardens, 8. speak to dive tulagi about arranging diving opportunities, 9. rent a car at economy car rentals for the next two days, 10. explore the local shops at npf plaza, 11. point cruz yacht club, 1. jacobs ladder, 2. breakfast at breakwater again, 3. guadalcanal american war memorial, 4. solomon peace memorial park (wwii japanese war memorial), 5. visit the willie besi war museum, 6. grab lunch at mambo juice, 7. visit the vilu military museum, 8. heritage park hotel for sunsets , 9. tenkai sushi cafe, 1. tenaru falls, 2. lunch at breakwater again, 3. bonegi beach, 4. get a massage, 5. pizza at the river house, solo travel tips to honiara, solomon islands, where to get the sim card, where to get the local currency, where to stay in honiara, how expensive are the solomon islands, how to get around honiara, when is the best time to visit the solomon islands, what is honiara known for, is honiara safe for solo travellers, let me know in the comments:.

I spent the 1st day in the town and planned outside-of-town activities for the two next days.

Start your day with good coffee/smoothies and breakfast at the Breakwater Cafe while enjoying the waterfront view. They don’t have wifi so important to get your own (info on where to get data – scroll below for solo travel tips to Honiara). This became my favorite cafe in Honiara for food and clearly for other people too so, def couldn’t work here due to a lot of people and noise.

Recommend Heritage Park Hotel or Mendana Hotel if you need to get some work done. Both hotels have restaurants and bring you your own internet as above.

On the opposite side of the cafe is the National Museum, where you can discover the rich cultural heritage and fascinating history of the Solomon Islands. Uncover the tales of ancient traditions and marvel at the remarkable artifacts on display.

There are two halls showcasing the history of Solomon Islands and don’t miss the cultural show at the back of the museum. The local ladies do a great job of demonstrating how they make different types of necklaces out of seashells and dance and you can buy the necklaces and other souvenirs there or at the gift shop. I learned a lot about the historical significance of the Solomon Islands, including Guadalcanal, which played a crucial role during World War II. Honiara’s strategic location made it a pivotal battleground in the Pacific campaign and they weren’t even themselves fighting. You can explore remnants of the war, such as the Guadalcanal American Memorial, the Japanese Peace Memorial, and the Vilu War Museum tomorrow (itinerary below). These sites offer insights into the conflict’s impact on the island and pay homage to those who sacrificed their lives.

Next door to the cafe is the National Art Gallery. It is small but does the job of telling the “red money story” in art forms and others. It’s next to a plaza with lots of artisan booths where you can buy carvings, paintings, and jewelry.  

Honiara serves as a melting pot of diverse cultures, with over 60 different indigenous ethnic groups calling the Solomon Islands home. From the Malaitan, Guadalcanal, and Central provinces to the smaller islands surrounding Honiara, the city embraces a vibrant mix of languages, traditions, and customs. Engaging with locals provides a glimpse into their warm hospitality, ancient rituals, and captivating stories.

For a true taste of Honiara, immerse yourself in the bustling Central Market. Here, vibrant displays of tropical fruits, aromatic spices, and traditional handicrafts entice visitors. Indulge your taste buds in the flavors of the Solomon Islands by savoring local dishes like kokoda (marinated fish salad), taro, fresh seafood, and exotic fruits. The fusion of traditional ingredients and modern influences creates a culinary experience to remember.

Take a leisurely stroll through the Honiara Botanical Gardens, located near the city center. Enjoy the serene surroundings, lush greenery, and diverse plant species.

Head to the Point Cruz Yacht Club for dinner. This waterfront restaurant offers stunning views of the ocean and delicious seafood dishes. Relax and enjoy the evening atmosphere.

Believe it or not, this has been one of my highlights of visiting Honiara. 

Jacobs Ladder is a well-known landmark for locals & hidden gem to visitors in Honiara. It is a steep staircase with approximately 800 steps that connect the upper part of the city to the lower coastal area. Here’s some information about Jacobs Ladder:

• Location: Jacobs Ladder is located near the city center of Honiara, specifically in the residential area of Point Cruz. It starts at the top of Murray Road and descends towards the coastline, ending near the Point Cruz Yacht Club.
• Purpose and History: Jacobs Ladder was constructed during World War II by American forces as part of the Guadalcanal campaign. It was initially built as an access point for military personnel to move quickly between the hilltop area and the waterfront.
• Fitness and Recreational Activity: Today, Jacobs Ladder has become a popular spot for fitness enthusiasts and visitors looking for a challenge. So obviously I had to do it & I was not disappointed. Started from the top & walked all the way down & around. The only thing I would say is to be mindful of some stray dogs. Luckily I met a local girl who helped me distract 5 dogs at one point but the second time around there was no one and, the dog barked at me so bad I was nervous and tripped, fell down & landed on my hands hurting my wrist! Be careful out there. Other than that, highly recommend it. Many locals have homes here and use the stairs for their daily commute. The steep climb provides a rigorous workout and is often used for fitness training but also offers beautiful panoramic views of the city and the sea.
• Scenic Views: As you ascend or descend Jacobs Ladder, you’ll be treated to stunning views of the Honiara skyline, the harbor, and the surrounding islands. It’s a great vantage point to capture photographs and appreciate the natural beauty of the area.
• Accessibility: Jacobs Ladder is open to the public and accessible to anyone who is physically capable of climbing the steep stairs. However, due to the high number of steps and the incline, it may not be suitable for individuals with mobility issues or certain health conditions. It’s recommended to take precautions, stay hydrated, and go at your own pace while using the stairs.

Visiting Jacobs Ladder in Honiara can be a rewarding experience, providing a combination of exercise, scenic views, and a glimpse into the city’s history. If you enjoy physical activities and want to challenge yourself, climbing Jacobs Ladder can be a memorable part of your visit to Honiara.

because I definitely deserved it after all that morning hike. Plus you can rent a snorkel at the cafe or diving equipment from Tulagi Dive. Be sure to confirm if available ahead of time.

More pictures. on Instagram highlight “Solomon Islands”

Head to the Guadalcanal American Memorial, which commemorates the World War II Battle of Guadalcanal. Take a moment to reflect on the historical significance of this site and pay homage to the brave soldiers who fought here. The World War II Guadalcanal American Memorial is located on Skyline Drive overlooking the town of Honiara, Guadalcanal, Solomon Islands.

Located near the Guadalcanal American Memorial, pay a visit to the WWII Japanese Peace Memorial, dedicated to Japanese soldiers who lost their lives during the war. The memorial provides a tranquil setting for reflection.

Aka Vilu War Museum offers some wonderful displays of “relics” from the war here. Exhibits are collected from across the island and were a nice range of American and Japanese artifacts. It is a small open-air museum in Vilu open Mondays to Sundays 0730-1700, an entrance fee of 100 SBD p/p, and filming costs 1000 SBD.

Pretty decent Japanese food, I had Katsu Chicken for dinner.

Don’t forget to grab some snacks for tomorrow morning from the Chinatown Bulk Shop or others in town.

Honiara boasts breathtaking natural beauty, showcasing the Solomon Islands’ unspoiled paradise. The lush rainforests surround the hidden gems like Tenaru Falls, where cascading water creates a serene oasis for nature enthusiasts to explore. Here’s some information about Tenaru Falls:

You can either drive there or contact the Paranjiju Mountain Lodge (Amanda +677 71 01432) to align the guide to get up to the waterfalls as visitors are not allowed to go on their own. 600 SBD for it. 

• Location: Tenaru Falls is situated about 30 kilometers east of Honiara, near the Tenaru River in the Guadalcanal Province of the Solomon Islands. It is nestled within a lush rainforest, offering a serene and picturesque setting.
• Natural Beauty: Tenaru Falls is a cascading waterfall that flows down a series of rock formations, creating a stunning display of water and natural beauty. The falls are surrounded by dense vegetation, including tropical trees and ferns, adding to the scenic charm of the area.
• Hiking and Exploration: To reach Tenaru Falls, you can embark on a moderate hiking trail that winds through the rainforest. The trail takes approximately 1-2 hours to complete, depending on your pace, and stops along the way. The journey offers an opportunity to immerse yourself in nature and appreciate the biodiversity of the region.
• Swimming and Relaxation: At the base of Tenaru Falls, there is a pool of clear water where visitors can take a refreshing dip and cool off. The pool is relatively shallow and provides a tranquil spot for swimming or simply relaxing amidst the natural surroundings.
• Local Guides: It is recommended to hire a local guide to accompany you on the hike to Tenaru Falls. They can provide valuable insights, ensure your safety, and share interesting information about the flora, fauna, and history of the area.
• Preparation: Before embarking on the hike, it is important to wear appropriate footwear, carry sufficient water, and use insect repellent to protect against mosquitoes and other insects. It’s also advisable to bring a camera to capture the beautiful scenery.

Visiting Tenaru Falls offers a chance to experience the natural wonders of the Solomon Islands and enjoy a peaceful escape from the city. The combination of hiking, swimming, and immersing yourself in the rainforest environment makes it a popular destination for nature lovers and adventure enthusiasts.

because I like their food and giant smoothies or Red Cross cafe for a local meal.

Snorkel at one of the many beaches west of Honiara by rental car or public bus. Some recommended beaches are Bonegi Beach, Lele, Turtle, Ginger, B-17, and Visale Beach with crystal-clear turquoise waters, perfect for snorkeling, swimming, and sunbathing. 

at Jing’s Spa

Ps: make sure to arrive early at the airport – Honiara is hosting the Pacific games in November and they are currently fixing their roads etc so rain, bad roads, and traffic can lead to significant delays. Also, check out the memorial garden located right next to the airport- an excellent place to wait for your international flight after check-in or before. And Kuya cafe next door for last-minute pick-me-up coffee.

Note: Honiara comes alive during its colorful festivals and celebrations, providing a unique opportunity to witness the vibrancy of Solomon Islander culture. The annual Solomon Islands Arts Festival showcases traditional music, dance, and crafts, while the Guadalcanal Provincial Cultural Festival celebrates the province’s cultural heritage. These events offer a glimpse into the locals’ deep-rooted traditions and are a testament to their pride in their cultural identity. Pls, check with S.I. Visitors Bureau to get real-time info on when these are scheduled.

Honiara, with its rich cultural tapestry, intriguing history, and breathtaking landscapes, stands as a gateway to the wonders of the Solomon Islands. It offers an unforgettable journey that combines authenticity, natural beauty, and a warm sense of community, making it an ideal destination for adventurous solo female travelers.

As soon as you land you can pick up and top up your Telekom SIM card at the airport or at the Telekom office. And you can top it up in little roadside snacks/cellular top-up shops – I found one called Breezeland.

Unfortunately, there were no ATMs or currency exchange at the airport, lucky I had exchanged some PNG Kina for Solomon Dollars (SBD) prior to leaving PNG. It’s always a good idea to have some cash on hand before you arrive or to ensure you have an alternative method of payment in case the ATMs are out of service or experiencing technical issues. 

Alternatively, you can exchange currency after your arrival at the Post Office and pick up some Solomon Islands postcards too.

Honiara, the capital city of the Solomon Islands, offers a range of accommodation options to suit different preferences and budgets. Here are some areas and hotels where you can consider staying in Honiara:

• Town Center: The town center of Honiara is a convenient location for accessing amenities, restaurants, and shops. Several hotels are situated in this area, providing easy access to key attractions and services. Examples of hotels in the town center include Heritage Park Hotel , Coral Sea Resort & Casino , and Solomon Kitano Mendana Hotel .
• Kukum/NPF Plaza: The Kukum area, near NPF Plaza, is another popular area to stay. It offers a range of mid-range and budget accommodations, including guesthouses and hotels. Some options in this area include King Solomon Hotel , Pacific Crown Hotel , and Honiara Pacific Hotel.
• Point Cruz: Point Cruz is a residential area located near the waterfront and offers a peaceful atmosphere. This area has a few hotels and guesthouses, such as The Pacific Hotel, King Solomon’s Palace, and Iron Bottom Sound Hotel.
• Tasahe: Tasahe is a suburban area located a short distance from the city center. It offers a more relaxed environment and is home to some upscale accommodations, such as the Coral Sea Villas and Honiara Hotel Motel.
• Lungga/Naha: Located outside the city center, the Lungga/Naha area provides a quieter setting and is known for its beautiful beaches. Accommodation options in this area include Guadalcanal Beach Resort.

When choosing a place to stay in Honiara, consider factors such as your budget, preferred location, proximity to attractions or activities, and the amenities offered by the hotel. It’s also advisable to book your accommodation in advance, especially during peak travel seasons, to secure your preferred choice.

The cost of visiting the Solomon Islands can vary depending on several factors, including your travel style, accommodation choices, dining preferences, and activities. Here is a general overview of the expenses you can expect in the Solomon Islands:

• Accommodation: Accommodation options in the Solomon Islands range from budget guesthouses to luxury resorts. Prices can vary significantly, with budget accommodations starting at around $55-80 AUD per night, while mid-range and higher-end options can range from $100 to several hundred dollars per night.
• Internet: Range of options available in terms of how much data you want to buy. For example, 1GB was $9 SBD and 2 GB was $11 SBD so it made sense to get the 2 GB. *155# to get data plans & *121# to check the balance. The internet speed was a little spotty but surprisingly worked most of the time.
• Food and Dining: Dining options in the Solomon Islands can be relatively affordable, especially if you opt for local eateries and markets. A basic meal at a local restaurant can cost around $10 AUD, while dining at mid-range restaurants may range from $15-30 AUD per person. Prices at high-end restaurants and resorts will be higher.
• Transportation: Transportation costs can vary depending on the distance and mode of travel. Taxis within Honiara and short trips within the city may cost around $5-10 AUD. Public buses (PMVs) are a more affordable option, with fares ranging from $1-5 USD depending on the distance but not reliable. Rental car prices vary, starting from around $100 AUD per day.
• Activities and Tours: The cost of activities and tours can vary widely depending on the type and duration. For example, diving and snorkeling trips can range from $50-150 AUD per dive or excursion. Guided cultural tours, visits to historical sites, and adventure activities can cost anywhere from $20 to a few hundred dollars per person.
• Flights: International flights to the Solomon Islands can be a significant expense, depending on your location and the time of booking. Prices for round-trip flights can vary widely, ranging from $500 to $2000 AUD or more, depending on factors such as the airline, season, and demand.

It’s important to note that these are rough estimates and prices can fluctuate. Additionally, remote areas or less touristy islands may have fewer accommodation and dining options, which can affect prices. It’s advisable to research and plan your budget accordingly, taking into account the specific activities and locations you plan to visit in the Solomon Islands. Regardless, people do vacation in the Solomon Islands because it is secluded & beautiful.

Taxis: Taxis are readily available in Honiara and can be found at taxi stands or hailed on the street. Public transport is not the best, so my best bet was to get taxis to get around. However, if you stay right in the city must-see places are located in the town. So you probably won’t need it unless for day trips. 

There are two well-known taxi companies and they charge 10 SBD per KM

King Taxi and Crown Taxi +677 20777

Rental Cars: Renting a car can provide more flexibility and independence for exploring Honiara and its surrounding areas. Several car rental agencies operate in the city, and you can arrange a rental either in advance or upon arrival. Keep in mind that driving is on the left-hand side of the road in the Solomon Islands.

Walking: Honiara’s city center is relatively compact, making it suitable for exploring on foot. Walking allows you to immerse yourself in the local atmosphere, discover hidden gems, and easily access nearby attractions. However, be cautious and aware of your surroundings, especially in busy areas or at night.

The best time to visit the Solomon Islands, including Honiara, is during the dry season, which typically extends from April to November. This period offers more favorable weather conditions and is considered the peak tourist season. Here are some factors to consider when planning your visit:

• Weather: The dry season experiences less rainfall and more sunshine, making it ideal for outdoor activities and exploring the islands. The temperatures are generally warm and pleasant year-round, with average highs ranging from 28°C to 32°C (82°F to 90°F).
• Diving and Snorkeling: The months of April to October are particularly popular for diving, Whale watching,  and snorkeling enthusiasts. The waters are generally calm and visibility is excellent, offering great opportunities to explore the vibrant coral reefs and marine life.
• Festivals and Events: The dry season also coincides with various cultural festivals and events in the Solomon Islands. These celebrations showcase traditional music, dance, arts, and crafts, providing a unique cultural experience for visitors.
• Crowds and Prices: The dry season is the peak tourist season in the Solomon Islands, which means that popular sites and accommodations may be more crowded. It’s advisable to book accommodations and activities in advance to secure your preferred options. However, it’s worth noting that prices for flights and accommodations may also be higher during this period.
• Wet Season Considerations: The wet season, from December to March, brings more rainfall and increased humidity to the Solomon Islands. While some travelers may still choose to visit during this time, it’s important to be prepared for potential rain showers and plan activities accordingly. Some outdoor activities and tours may be limited or disrupted during heavy rain.

It’s always recommended to check the current weather conditions and consult local resources when planning your visit to the Solomon Islands. Additionally, keep in mind that weather patterns can vary, and it’s possible to experience rainfall even during the dry season.

Honiara, the capital city of the Solomon Islands, is known for several notable features and attractions. Here are some things that Honiara is known for:

• World War II History: Honiara played a significant role during World War II as the site of the Battle of Guadalcanal. The city is known for its historical significance and various war-related sites, including the Guadalcanal American Memorial, Japanese Peace Memorial, and Vilu War Museum.
• Cultural Diversity: Honiara is home to a diverse population, representing various indigenous ethnic groups from the Solomon Islands. The city offers opportunities to experience and appreciate the rich cultural heritage through traditional music, dance, arts, crafts, and local customs.
• Central Market: The Central Market in Honiara is a bustling hub where locals gather to sell and purchase fresh produce, seafood, handicrafts, and traditional artifacts. It’s a vibrant place to immerse yourself in the local atmosphere, sample local cuisine, and engage with friendly vendors.
• Pristine Beaches and Marine Life: Honiara boasts stunning beaches with crystal-clear waters and vibrant marine life. Places like Bonegi Beach and Visale Beach offer opportunities for snorkeling, diving, and enjoying the beauty of the Pacific Ocean.
• Natural Wonders: Honiara is surrounded by lush rainforests and natural wonders. Tenaru Falls, located just outside the city, offers a serene hiking experience leading to a magnificent waterfall. The Honiara Botanical Gardens provide a tranquil escape with a variety of flora and fauna to explore.
• Melanesian Art and Crafts: Honiara is known for its vibrant art scene and the production of Melanesian arts and crafts. The city offers a range of galleries and craft markets where you can find traditional wood carvings, shell jewelry, paintings, and other unique artworks.
• Warm Hospitality: The locals of Honiara are known for their friendly and welcoming nature, providing a warm and hospitable atmosphere for visitors. Interacting with the residents offers insights into their way of life, traditions, and cultural practices.

These are just a few highlights of what Honiara is known for. Besides, the country’s blend of history, culture, natural beauty, and warm hospitality makes the Solomon Islands worth visiting and an intriguing destination for travelers seeking an authentic South Pacific experience.

Honiara can generally be considered safe for solo travelers, but it’s important to exercise caution and take necessary precautions, as with any travel destination. Here are some factors to consider:

• Personal Safety: Like in any city, it’s advisable to be mindful of your surroundings, particularly at night and in less crowded areas. Avoid displaying valuable items openly and be cautious of pickpocketing or petty theft. It’s recommended to use common sense, trust your instincts, and take appropriate safety measures.
• Local Advice: Seek local advice and information from trusted sources such as your hotel or reliable tour operators. They can provide insights into areas to avoid or precautions to take based on the current situation in Honiara.
• Transportation: Ensure that you use reliable and licensed taxis or transportation services. It’s recommended to agree upon a fare before starting your journey. Avoid hitchhiking or accepting rides from strangers.
• Respect Local Customs: Familiarize yourself with the local customs and cultural norms. Respecting the traditions and sensitivities of the local population can help create a positive and safe experience for solo travelers.
• Emergency Contacts: Keep important contact numbers, including your embassy or consulate, local authorities, and emergency services, readily available in case of any unforeseen situations.
• Travel Insurance: It’s always advisable to have comprehensive travel insurance that covers medical emergencies, personal belongings, and trip cancellations. Ensure that your insurance policy is suitable for the activities you plan to undertake in Honiara.

While Honiara is generally safe, it’s essential to stay informed, use common sense, and take necessary precautions to ensure a safe and enjoyable solo travel experience. As with any travel destination, it’s advisable to research and be aware of the local customs, laws, and potential risks before your trip.

if you have any other questions on this 3 days in Honiara itinerary 3 days in Port Moresby 5 days in Apia Samoa itinerary 5 days in Nuku’alofa Tonga itinerary Grampians itinerary for 3-4 days Best day trips from Hobart, Tasmania Day trip to Stradbroke Island , Queensland Weekend in Brisbane Best places to visit in autumn in Australia Backpacking in Melbourne, Australia Digital nomad guide to Melbourne Sydney itinerary 5 days Best places to see autumn leaves in Adelaide Exploring Adelaide the best way All Adelaide travel blogs 10 hidden beaches and bays in Sydney 99% of readers found must see on the east coast of Australia helpful. Sydney bucketlist things Sydney itinerary for 5 days Secret Sydney walks Best places to take photos in Sydney Pros and cons of living in Australia where to stay in Sydney Hidden beaches and bays most instagrammable cafes in Sydney where to eat in Sydney most Instagrammable places in Sydney, Australia Most beautiful places in New Zealand North Island Check out the most beautiful places in New Zealand South Island Going to Vietnam after Australia? Check out the 7 days Hanoi travel guide. One month in Central America itinerary Solo trip to Phoenix , Arizona How about Colombia? Check out how to get from Medellin to guatape Check out where to stay in Medellin , Colombia Check hotel prices and book it through booking.com Read the most wanted  travel resource here. If you like this article, read about my journey to becoming a solo female Nepali Australian travel blogger , follow my adventures on Instagram ,  Facebook ,  YouTube , Twitter , and Pinterest , but most importantly sign up for my e-mail list to keep up with updates and travel posts!

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From CruisersWiki

Honiara is the capital city of the Solomon Islands.

See Solomon Islands .

Communication

Add here VHF channel for coastguard, harbor masters. etc.

Also see World Cruiser's Nets

Approach Point Cruz lining up the post in front of the yacht club with the post further up on the hill. There are green and red (unlit) buoys marking the entrance. The latest C-MAP ED3 2012 is correct, some of the older C-MAP ED2 show you off to the W on the reef.

Updated Oct 2012 by Kestrahl

Honiara is a port of entry for the Solomon Islands. For details see Entrance: Solomon Islands .

Anchoring stern up to the seawall is it seems harder than it used to be, as this space is currently taken up by local charter boats that it seems have moorings off the seawall.

There is also a new big dock in the middle that has recently been constructed and takes up a fair amount of space.

Marinas & Yacht Clubs

Point Cruz Yacht Club is on the shore at the head of the bay. It is the place to land your Dinghy and fairly safe to leave it. The Club is more a hang a out-bar for the older expat crowd than a yacht club but they are generally friendly and helpful. The Club offers free temporary membership to overseas visitors. The bar and kitchen are open for lunch and dinner. Cold showers and laundry facilities are available plus WiFi.

As at Oct 2012 there are 7 visiting cruising yachts here all swinging free on the W side of the harbor near the yellow mooring buoy. The mooring buoy can be rented - see notice board at point Cruz club.

Provisioning

Give the names and locations of supermarkets, grocery stores, bakeries, etc.

Bar at the Yacht Club

Transportation

List transportation (local and/or international.)

Give a short history of the port.

Places to Visit

List places of interest, tours, etc.

Contact details of "Cruiser's Friends" that can be contacted for local information or assistance.

List links to discussion threads on partnering forums . ( see link for requirements )

• Honiara at the Wikipedia
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Following History’s Footsteps on Guadalcanal

T he first footprints appeared on the stretch of Guadalcanal shore code-named “Red Beach” on August 7, 1942. Made by Marine Corps–issue boots, these were truly historic imprints: America’s first steps toward the ultimate, unconditional victory over Japan almost exactly three years later.

By the conclusion of the crucial battle in the southern Solomon Islands—a battle that also raged in the skies above and roiled the waters around the roughly 2,000-square-mile island until February 1943, and resulted in nearly 40,000 total casualties—there would be countless more footprints, along with the rapid accumulation of more tangible evidence of the clash. As I prepared to set foot on Guadalcanal nearly 70 years later, I wondered how many of the battle’s footprints remained.

In Europe and the United States one typically finds shiny plaques, paved guide paths, and meticulously maintained museums, monuments, and cemeteries. But many Pacific War sites remain largely undisturbed, laden with potential for not only discovery, but head-shaking sadness as well. A combination of unchecked jungle growth, unrelenting tides, and the unremitting effects of time and poor preservation efforts is steadily erasing from existence the ruins, wrecks, guns, and bunkers that have stood as symbolic sentinels for decades.

So, much like the Marines who landed that August day with little ammunition and food, I commenced the expedition with uncertainty. Little did I know that on the “Canal,” history, however hidden, is always just a few footsteps away.

It was literally under my feet only moments after my Air Pacific jet landed on the tarmac: Honiara International Airport is built upon the exact site of Henderson Field, the focal point of the six-month campaign—awakening me to the realization that Joe Foss, Bob Galer, John L. Smith, and the other legendary pilots of the Cactus Air Force once trod this very same ground.

The past quickly vanished in the dusty bustle of Honiara, the seaside Solomon Islands capital city home to 79,000—but only temporarily, thanks to John Innes. Innes is the modern incarnation of the intrepid scouts and coastwatchers who guided the Marines throughout the battle. Born in London during the war, Innes arrived in the Solomons via Australia and a work-related move. He was bitten shortly thereafter. “You can cure malaria,” Innes likes to say, “but there is no cure for the history bug.”

After decades of locating aircraft wrecks, helping recover and identify remains, and accompanying veterans on what can best be considered emotional archaeological digs, Innes has assumed a much-needed role as Guadalcanal’s on-site historian. While Solomon Islanders are very friendly and hospitable, most remain largely unaware of the historical significance of the soil on which they live. Or perhaps they just want to forget. “Having no word for ‘war’ in their native tongue,” Innes said, those present at the time of the battle referred to it as the “Big Death.”

There are no signs marking the site of the infamous Goettge Patrol massacre on the grounds of the United Church in downtown Honiara. Nor, if not for Innes, would I have known that the fairways of the Honiara Golf Course were once home to Fighter Two, the airstrip from which the P-38s of the 339th Fighter Squadron lifted off on April 18, 1943, and shot down Admiral Isoroku Yamamoto.

The majority of the island’s historic sites, however, are located outside of the littered, betel nut–spattered streets and sidewalks of Honiara. Over the course of several exhausting yet exhilarating days, I retraced the footsteps made by Lieutenant Colonel Evans Carlson’s Second Marine Raider Battalion on the Long Patrol, an epic march that cleared Japanese troops and artillery from Mount Austen, the 1,514-foot monolith that dominates Guadalcanal’s interior, and hunkered down behind strands of rusty barbed wire that still circle the Lunga Perimeter, as they had in October, 1942.

On Japanese Memorial Hill, I stood upon slabs of white sun-washed stone framed by white frangipani and red hibiscus, representative of the national colors of Japan, to scan the sweeping vistas of the island panorama. Atop an eerily calm Edson’s Ridge, where, from September 12–14, 1942, a handful of Marines repulsed a massive Japanese attack and saved Henderson Field, I crouched in a depression that was once a foxhole and contemplated the identity and the emotions of the young Marines who fought there The reverberating thunder of artillery salvos from the 11th Marine Regiment’s 105mm guns has long since faded; only ocean breezes breathe across the island, gently rustling the golden-green fields of kunai grass that carpet the ridges.

And I learned not to follow in Japanese footsteps—literally. The sprawling Lever Brothers coconut plantation that Colonel Kiyonao Ichiki’s men marched west through, toward a resounding defeat at the Battle of the Tenaru, no longer exists. The easiest contemporary route passes along what was once the southern boundary of Henderson Field, past clumps of red ginger and sugar cane, onto Block Four Road. That path, little more than a jungle trail, delivers you to Alligator Creek and the sandbar where hundreds of Japanese fell before Marine machine guns on August 21, 1942.

Near the inland area known as the Gifu, where American forces reduced the last pockets of Japanese resistance in the battle’s final stages, the residents of Barana village display war relics on crowded tables: rusty bayonets, helmets, .50-caliber machine gun barrels, Marston matting, Coca-Cola bottles, and shell casings. Just off Tetere Beach, rows of amtracs sit among massive banyan trees, as if in preparation for the next island invasion.

The most impressive collection of war relics is at the Vilu War Museum, located 21 kilometers west of Honiara off the northwest coastal road. Walled by towering coconut palms and flowering coroton trees are a series of boneyard “exhibits:” nearly complete skeletons of an F4F Wildcat, an F4U Corsair, an SBD Dauntless dive bomber, and a P-38 Lightning. There is also a Type 97 Japanese tank, three 105mm guns, and a 155mm howitzer, plus an arsenal of deactivated ordnance ranging from 500-kilogram Japanese bombs to mortar shells.

And the best part? Much like the rest of Guadalcanal, the museum is hands-on history. There are no display cases, velvet ropes, or flash photography rules. For the entry price of 25 Solomon Island dollars (about $3), proprietor/curator Anderson Dua will invite you to touch whatever you please. Dua even happily showed me how to fold the creaking wing of the carrier-design Wildcat.

I continued my march further west along the northwest road, bouncing down a tunnel of tall palms to remote Koli Point, where the Japanese were able to evacuate approximately 13,000 starving troops in February 1943. The surf softly laps the black sands of Koli, perhaps the best place to visually absorb Savo Island, which rises out of the glassy, swelling surface of Ironbottom Sound like a half-moon.

On August 9, 1942, the first major naval engagement of the campaign took place off Savo Island; it was the biggest naval disaster in American history with the exception of Pearl Harbor. Although the extreme depths of Ironbottom Sound insure that most of the wrecks will remain hidden history, some of the estimated 690 aircraft and 200 vessels in the waters around Guadalcanal are divable. For those who want to see wrecks up close without getting wet, there is LST 342. Torpedoed off New Georgia in July 1943, the tank landing ship was blown in two, yet the bow was deemed salvageable enough to be towed to what is now its eternal mooring in Purvis Bay, off Florida Island, about a one-hour trip via charter from Honiara.

History’s constant close proximity on Guadalcanal was driven home to me one evening, as Innes and I were relaxing at Honiara’s Point Cruz Yacht Club, overlooking Savo and Florida Islands. About 20 paces away was a plaque memorializing Signalman Douglas Munro, and I realized I was gazing out on the site where Munro had earned the Congressional Medal of Honor—the only member of the U.S. Coast Guard to do so. Munro was mortally wounded on September 27, 1942, while leading several Higgins boats to Point Cruz to evacuate Marines. He reportedly remained conscious long enough to ask, “Did they get off?”

Yet of all the memorials on Guadalcanal, no words are more appropriate than those etched into the marble walls of the American Memorial located atop Skyline Ridge overlooking the Matanikau River valley, on what was known during the battle as Hill 73:

“May this memorial endure the ravages of time until the wind, rain and tropical storms wear away its surface, but never its memories.”

As long as one can follow the historic footprints, these memories will endure.

John D. Lukacs is a writer and historian whose work has appeared in USA Today, the New York Times , and on ESPN.com. His first book, Escape From Davao: The Forgotten Story of the Most Daring Prison Break of the Pacific War , will be published in paperback by Penguin/NAL in May. His next book, on the Battle for Manila in 1945, will be published by Penguin/NAL Caliber.

When You Go Honiara International Airport is serviced by Air Pacific, Air Vanuatu, Our Airline (formerly known as Air Nauru), Pacific Blue, and Solomon Airlines. Getting around Guadalcanal is not difficult; rental cars are available, and taxis are both plentiful and affordable.

Where to Stay and Eat The new Heritage Park Hotel (www.hph.com.sb, 677-24007), located in the Honiara waterfront area on the site of the former governor-general’s residence, offers superb service, a sparkling pool, luxury stylings, and multiple amenities. Japanese troops called Guadalcanal “Starvation Island,” but you won’t go hungry when visiting. The Point Cruz Yacht Club offers a tasty assortment of nightly specials and is highly recommended. The Renaissance restaurant and The Terrace at Heritage Park Hotel offer formal and casual dining experiences featuring European and Pan-Asian fare.

What Else to See Guadalcanal is acquiring a reputation as one of the Pacific’s premier eco-tourism destinations. Birdwatchers, wildlife enthusiasts, fishermen, and scuba divers flock to the Solomons. Extreme Adventures (solomonadventures.com) offers “seafari” tours, snorkeling, and fishing expeditions. Divers should contact divemaster Neil Yates (www.tulagidive.com.sb, 677-32131). For fishing and day charters, as well as a few good fish stories, Mike Hammond at Fishing Solomon (677-24498) will help you get underway.

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if (!inwiki && isMobileDevice){ document.write(' (adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); ');} Point Cruz Yacht Club, Honiara (Honiara)

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We Remember Signalman First Class Douglas A. Munro

Signalman First Class Douglas Monro

The Coast Guard’s first major participation in the Pacific war was at Guadalcanal. Here the service played a large part in the landings on the islands. So critical was their task that they were later involved in every major amphibious campaign during World War II. During the war, the Coast Guard manned over 350 ships and hundreds more amphibious type assault craft. It was in these ships and craft that the Coast Guard fulfilled one of its most important but least glamorous roles during the war–that is getting the men to the beaches. The initial landings were made on Guadalcanal in August 1942, and this hard-fought campaign lasted for nearly six months. Seven weeks  after the initial landings, , on September 27, 1942, during a small engagement near the Matanikau River, Signalman First Class Douglas Albert Munro, died while rescuing a group of marines near the Matanikau River.

Douglas Munro grew up in the small town of Cle Elum, Washington. Enlisting in September 1939, Munro volunteered for duty on board the USCG cutter Spencer where he served until 1941. While on board he earned his Signalman 3rd Class rating. In June, President Roosevelt directed the Coast Guard to man four large transports and serve in mixed crews on board twenty-two naval ships. When word arrived that these ships needed signalmen, Munro, after much pleading with Spencer’s executive officer, was given permission to transfer to the Hunter Liggett (APA-14). This 535 foot, 13,712 ton ship, was one of the largest transports in the Pacific. She carried nearly 700 officers and men and thirty-five landing boats including two LCTs. In April 1942, the “Lucky Liggett” sailed to Wellington, New Zealand, to prepare for a major campaign in the south pacific.

On 7 August 1942, the United States embarked on its first major amphibious assault of the Pacific War. After the successes at Coral Sea and Midway the United States decided to counter Japanese advances in the Solomon Islands. These islands form two parallel lines that run southeast approximately 600 miles east of New Guinea. Tulagi and Guadalcanal, both at the end of the chain were picked for an assault. Guadalcanal was strategically important because the Japanese were building an airfield, and if finished would interfere with the campaign.

Wreaths are presented on the grave of Signalman 1st Class Douglas A. Munro during a memorial ceremony held in his honor at Laurel Hills Memorial Cemetery in Cle Elum, Wash., Sept. 25, 2015.  (U.S. Coast Guard photo by Petty Officer 3rd Class Katelyn Shearer)

Eighteen of the twenty-two naval troop carrying ships attached to the campaign’s task force carried Coast Guard personnel. These men were assigned an integral part in the landings–the operation of the landing craft. Many of the Coast Guard coxswains had come from Life-Saving stations and their experience with small boats made them the most seasoned small boat handlers in government service.

The Coast Guard manned transports played a prominent role in the initial landings at Guadalcanal, Tulagi and other nearby islands. As the task force gathered, Munro, now a signalman first-class, was assigned to temporary duty on the staff of Commander, Transport Division Seventeen. During the preparations for the invasion, Munro was transferred from ship to ship, as his talents were needed. The task force rendezvoused at sea near the end of July and on 7 August the Liggett led the other transports to their anchorage off Guadalcanal. Hunter Liggett served as the amphibious force command post until the Marines secured the beaches.

At he time of the invasion, Munro was attached to the staff of Rear Admiral Richmond Kelly Turner on board McCawley (APA-4). Munro made the landing on Tulagi Island where fierce fighting lasted for several days. About two weeks later Munro was sent twenty miles across the channel to Guadalcanal where the Marines had landed and had driven inland. One of the bloodiest and most decisive battles ensued. The Americans quickly seized the airfield on the island but for six months both the U.S. and the Japanese poured troops onto Guadalcanal in an attempt to gain control and force the other off.

Marines assigned to Naval Base Kitsap-Bangor, Wash., render a three-volley salute in honor of Coast Guard Signalman 1st Class Douglas Munro during a memorial ceremony at Munro’s gravesite in Cle Elum, Wash., Sept. 26, 2014. (U.S. Coast Guard photo by Petty Officer 3rd Class Katleyn Shearer)

After the initial landings at Guadalcanal, Munro and twenty-four other Coast Guard and Navy personnel were assigned to Lunga Point Base. The base was commanded by Commander Dwight H. Dexter, USCG, who was in charge of all the small boat operations on Guadalcanal. The base, situated on the Lever Brothers coconut plantation consisted of a small house with a newly constructed coconut tree signal tower. Munro was assigned here because of his signalman rate. The base served as the staging area for troop movements along the coast. To facilitate this movement, a pool of landing craft from the numerous transports lay there to expedite the transportation of supplies and men.

A month into the campaign, the Marines on the island were reinforced and decided to push beyond their defensive perimeter. They planned to advance west across the Matanikau River to prevent smaller Japanese units from combining and striking American positions in overwhelming numbers. For several days near the end of September, the Marines tried to cross the river from the east and each time met tremendous resistance. On Sunday, 27 September, Marine Lieutenant Colonel Lewis B. “Chesty” Puller embarked three companies of his 7th Marines in landing craft. They planned to land west of the river, drive out the Japanese, and establish a patrol base on the west side of the Matanikau.

A photo of the memorial to Douglas Munro at the Point Cruz Yacht Club, Honiara, Guadalcanal, Solomon Islands.

The landing craft were dispatched from Lunga Base. Douglas Munro, just two weeks short of his twenty-third birthday, took charge of ten LCPs and LCTs (tank lighters) to transport Puller’s men from Lunga Point to a small cove west of Point Cruz. The Marines landed with the support of the destroyer U.S.S. Monssen which laid down a covering barrage with her five inch batteries shortly after twelve o’clock. Major Ortho L. Rodgers, commanding the landing party reached the beach in two waves at 1:00. The 500 unopposed Marines pushed inland and reorganized on a ridge about 500 yards from the beach. At about 1:50, approximately the same time they reached the ridge, their gunfire support was disrupted by a Japanese bombing raid. Monssen had to withdraw to avoid seventeen high level Japanese bombers. Unfortunately, this occurred at the same time that the Marines were struck by an overwhelming Japanese force west of the river. This situation deteriorated when Major Rodgers was killed and one of the company commanders was wounded.

After the Marines landed, Munro and the boats returned to Lunga Point Base. A single LCP remained behind to take off the immediate wounded. Coast Guard petty officer Ray Evans and Navy Coxswain Samuel B. Roberts manned the craft. They kept the craft extremely close to the beach to take off the wounded as quickly as possible. The Japanese, meanwhile had worked behind the Marines and without warning a machine gun burst hit the LCP parting the rudder cable and damaging the boat’s controls. After jury rigging the rudder, Roberts was struck by enemy fire and Evans managed to jam the controls to full ahead and sped back to Lunga Point Base. Unable to stop, the LCP ran onto the beach at 20 mph. Roberts later died but won the Navy Cross posthumously.

Coast Guard recruits in training participated in a ceremony to honor Petty Officer 1st Class Douglas Munro Sept. 27, 2010.

As Evans arrived at the Lunga Point base, word arrived that the Marines were in trouble and were being driven back toward the beach. Their immediate plight had not been known. The bombing raid had driven Monssen out of range to visually communicate with shore. Furthermore, the three companies of Marines had failed to take a radio and were unable to convey their predicament. Using under-shirts they spelled out the word “HELP” on a ridge not far from the beach. Second Lieutenant Dale Leslie in a Douglas SBD spotted the message and passed it by radio to another Marine unit. At 4 P.M. Lt. Colonel Puller, realizing that his men were isolated, embarked on Monssen to direct personally the covering fire for the marines who were desperately trying to reach the beach.

The landing craft had meanwhile been readied at Lunga Point Base. Again, virtually the same boats that had put the Marines on the beach were assembled to extract them. Douglas Munro, who had taken charge of the original landing, volunteered to lead the boats back to the beach. None of these boats were heavily armed or well protected. For instance, Munro’s Higgin’s boat had a plywood hull, it was slow, vulnerable to small arms fire, and was armed only with two air-cooled .30 caliber Lewis machine guns.

As Munro led the boats ashore the Japanese fired on the small craft from Point Cruz, the ridges abandoned by the Marines, and from positions east of the beach. This intense fire from three strong interlocking positions disrupted the landing and caused a number of casualties among the virtually defenseless crews in the boats. Despite the intense fire Munro led the boats ashore. Reaching the shore in waves, Munro led them to the beach two or three at a time to pick up the Marines. Munro and Petty Officer Raymond Evans provided covering fire from an exposed position on the beach.

As the Marines reembarked, the Japanese pressed toward the beach making the withdrawal more dangerous with each second. The Monssen and Leslie’s Douglas “Dauntless” dive bomber provided additional cover for the withdrawing Marines. The Marines arrived on the beach to embark on the landing craft while the Japanese kept up a murderous fire from the ridges about 500 yards from the beach. Munro, seeing the dangerous situation, maneuvered his boat between the enemy and those withdrawing to protect the remnants of the battalion. Successfully providing cover, all the Marines including twenty-five wounded managed to escape.

For his heroic and selfless actions in the completion of this rescue mission Munro was posthumously awarded the Medal of Honor, the only Coast Guardsman in history to receive the award.

Douglas Munro lived up to the Coast Guard’s motto–“Semper Paratus”, Always Ready.

• Stewardship

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• Preliminary pages
• List of figures
• List of maps
• List of plates
• List of tables
• Acknowledgements
• Acronyms and abbreviations
• A note on nomenclature
• Introduction
• 1. Nahona`ara before 1942
• 2. Taem blong faet: Camp Guadal
• 3. The new capital
• 4. The other Honiara
• 5. Municipal authority and housing
• 6. Building infrastructure
• 7. Building society and the nation
• 8. Stepping-stones to national consciousness
• 9. Since independence
• 10. The village-city
• Bibliography

Since independence

Plate 9.1 Busy Mendana Avenue in 2014.

Once lined with shade trees, Honiara’s main street has become a hot and dusty area dominated by bitumen, concrete, and traffic jams.

Source: Christopher Chevalier Collection.

Modern Honiara

So far, Honiara: Village-City of Solomon Islands has concentrated on the years up to 1978—the period of the establishment of institutions that make up the modern nation. The final two chapters are broad essays on the past 40 years. At the time of independence, Honiara was centred on Point Cruz, with most of the business district, government offices, and other public buildings nearby. Low-density housing extended east and west along the coast. The second commercial centre was in Chinatown on the east bank of the Mataniko River, which was an area where rural visitors felt comfortable among the trade stores that were little different from those in the provinces. Further east there were several educational institutions built in the 1960s to serve the nation and surrounding Pacific territories. Ranadi was on the way to becoming the third business centre, based on light industry and warehouses. Henderson Airfield, 11 kilometres east of Point Cruz, was the international gateway, based on an old wartime airstrip. Housing was beginning to fill out the urban area and, as continues, leaf-thatch villages mixed with more permanent houses in the settlements. Leaf-thatch houses were also scattered around the more established houses in the suburbs, subsidiary to the main buildings.

Figure 9.1 The population of Greater Honiara: The Honiara City Council area and the adjacent peri-urban population of Guadalcanal Province, 1959–2019.

Notes: The depiction in this graph should be regarded as approximate. Peri-urban areas of Honiara outside the city boundaries do not show up in statistics until 1999. Over time, squatter areas—many originally outside the town/city boundary—became THA/TOL areas once Honiara’s boundary was expanded to incorporate 5,000 hectares of Queen Elizabeth National Park in 1973.

Sources: Based on BSIP (1961); SIG (2014a: 13; 2020g). Graph created by Jessica Carmichael.

Table 9.1 Honiara demographic overview, 1959–2009.

n.a. Not available

Note: Some of the figures are deceptive, particularly for 1959 and 1970 for household sizes, as significant numbers lived in barracks.

Sources: BSIP (1961, 1970); SIG (1988a, 1988b, 1999b, 2009).

Figure 9.1 and Table 9.1 provide an outline of population increases between 1959 and 2019 within the Honiara City Council boundaries and in Greater Honiara. The number of urban residents of Solomon Islands (overwhelmingly living in Honiara) increased by approximately 4.7 per cent every year—a doubling every two decades. Some Honiara settlements grew at twice this rate. 1 In 1976, Honiara’s population was 14,942, which is comparable with that of a small Australian country town. More than 80 per cent of Honiara’s population were Melanesian, and 7 to 8 per cent were Polynesian or Gilbertese. The percentage of Europeans in the town’s population fell from 6.1 per cent in 1976 to 4.6 per cent in 1979. Chinese made up only 1.8 per cent in 1979. Malaitans were the main group: approximately 50 per cent of Honiara’s residents aged 15 and over. The next largest group, about 12 per cent, was from Western Province. In 1970, there were still two men to every woman; by 1976, this had altered to two women to every three men, indicating the speed of the changes during the 1970s. In 1976, 83 per cent of the Solomon Islanders in Honiara had lived there for less than four years. A decade later, the population was 17,293 males and 13,120 females—a doubling in size and an improvement in the male/female ratio. Urban planners estimated that, based on the rate of increase in the 1970s, the population was likely to be 40,000 by 1996, which was lower than the official figure of 49,107 recorded in the 1999 census, and did not include people living in Greater Honiara beyond the city boundary. 2

Map 9.1 Honiara town and boundary, 1981.

Although the map shows the section of Queen Elizabeth National Park gifted to the Honiara Town Council, it seems not to include THA/TOL or squatter areas.

Source: Solomon Islands Department of Lands and Survey.

Very few attempts have been made to estimate the full extent of Greater Honiara and its peri-urban fringe. For instance, Map 9.1 indicates that in 1981 about one-third of Honiara City Council land had been developed. However, it seems not to include THA/TOL or squatter areas. Map 10.1 is more accurate, although still limited largely to the area of the Honiara City Council. Recent mapping is much better. Map 10.4 shows the THA/TOL and squatter housing settlements in 2019, and Map 10.5 attempts to show projected growth between 2006 and 2025, and the expected overflow on to Tandai and Malango land.

Point Cruz is emblematic of changing Honiara. Over the past four decades, the promontory has been expanded into a major wharf and storage facility. It bears little resemblance to the original small island joined to the mainland by a reef and a low swampy causeway. To the east, alongside the main wharf and container terminal, is a network of wharves handling interisland shipping. The Point Cruz Yacht Club and the government patrol boat base are on the western side. Increasingly, Honiara has the infrastructure of a modern city, yet the basic geography—Point Cruz, the Mataniko River, the narrow coastal strip, the low ridges, and the many valleys in between—will always shape development. The hills and ridges make it a difficult city for which to provide services. Along with this, human changes and continuities bind Honiara into the modern nation. The number of occupants of settlements equals, or possibly exceeds, that in the suburbs, and housing standards vary enormously.

The population increased at least four or fivefold between 1976 and 2009. In the 2009 census, the male/female ratio had become close to equal. The number of households more than tripled between 1976 and 2009, and the average household size increased. The National Statistics Office’s population estimate for the Honiara City Council area in 2009 was 67,000, which it projected would reach 100,000 in 2025. 3 How wrong they were. The official estimate from the 2019 national census is 130,000 within the boundaries of Honiara City Council and another 30,000 in what includes Greater Honiara: a combined total of 160,000 people.

Plate 9.2 The Honiara waterfront to the east of Point Cruz in 2017, showing international ships at the old main wharf on the right and the smaller interisland shipping wharves to the left.

The fuel storage area is behind and the National Parliament is on the hill.

Source: Clive Moore Collection.

Plate 9.3 Honiara’s modern interisland shipping wharves, 2014.

Honiara has become the seat of government, the headquarters of Guadalcanal Province, the home of the nation’s best schools, and the headquarters of most Christian denominations. It is also home to the head offices of commercial companies and NGOs. It is the ‘arrival city’ for Solomon Islands, a place where many aspire to live, even with the financial and social difficulties that accompany urban life. However, Honiara City Council has always been weak (compared with many overseas city councils of similar size) and is not really in charge of urban development plans, being subservient to the whims of the national government on most matters. The government has done little to create the necessary infrastructure for anything beyond the more formally planned areas. The results of this lack of forethought are clear in the size of the barely controlled settlements.

The most populous wards in 1970 were Panatina, Mataniko, Vavaea, and Kola`a. Mataniko and Vavaea were central to early settlement (Map 5.2). Kola`a, Vura, and Panatina in the east are geographically the largest wards, stretching furthest inland from the coast. In 1973, Kola`a and Vura absorbed the major part of the national park, and Panatina was also extended. By 1976, Kola`a and Vura in the east, and Nggosi in the west, were all growing fast. In 1986, the most populous wards were Panatina, Vura, Vavaea, and Kola`a Ridge, indicating the population shift to the east. Twenty years later, the largest wards were Nggosi, Kola`a Ridge, Vura, and Panatina. The overall settlement pattern remains the same as earlier: the rich live on the hills and the poor live in the valleys. The population of Point Cruz, the administrative and commercial hub, has remained small. Panatina, once only an education and industrial enclave, has now developed into a major housing area, extending along the coast as far east as (but not quite including) the Burns Creek settlement, and stretching inland. Vura Ward includes Vura suburb, Kobito, and Gilbert Camp, plus numerous other settlements. In 2009, 365 Honiara dwellings were listed as being constructed from makeshift or improvised materials, and 1,586 (of 8,981) had traditional thatched roofs—an indication that squatter settlements and urban villages continued to use local building materials.

Plate 9.4 A prosperous Lengakiki Ridge house, 2014.

Plate 9.5 A typical Honiara house combining local and Western materials, 2014.

Table 9.2 Population of wards within Honiara, 1970–2009.

a Also spelt Langgakiki or Lengakiki.

b Also spelt Matanikau.

c Also spelt Kolaa or Kola.

Sources: SIG (2011b: 13); Floyd (1976: 7a).

Other social indicators are worth noting here: marriages, religious denominations, and schools. The marriage pattern during the mid-1980s was similar to that in the rest of the country, wherein men married later in life than women by several years—an indication that men were expected to be able to provide a living and accommodation for their wives and potential families before they entered into marriage. The proportions of religious denominations did not entirely mirror the national statistics (Table 7.1). Adherents of the Anglican Church of Melanesia (9,330) were the largest Christian group: 30.6 per cent of Honiara’s population, which was lower than their 33.9 per cent nationwide. The SSEC had 7,742 adherents, or 25.4 per cent of Honiara’s population, which was much higher than their national level of 17.6 per cent. The same applied to the SDAs: 4,851 adherents, or 15.9 per cent, when the national figure was only 10 per cent. The United Church had 2,551 adherents, or 8.4 per cent. And even though the Catholics had been an important presence on Guadalcanal since the 1890s, they only made up 3,863, or 12.7 per cent, of Honiara’s Christians, compared with a national proportion of 19.2 per cent. 4

The modern education system begins with early childhood education and six years of primary schooling. The percentage of boys and girls attending primary school is approximately equal. The secondary system divides into junior secondary school (Years 7 to 9) and senior secondary school (Years 10 to 12). The rapid creation of community high schools since the 1990s, which include primary and lower secondary levels, has now swelled the number of secondary school students. As would be expected in a capital city, Honiara has the best-educated population in the nation. Whereas some of the provinces had larger numbers of students at primary school, none matched Honiara for secondary school attendance. The best Honiara upper-level schools are King George VI, the SDA’s Betikama, the Catholic St Joseph’s Tenaru, the Anglican St Nicholas College, and Woodford International School.

Solving disputes

In a Pacific city the size of Honiara, civil disturbances can easily get out of control, and rivalry between Solomon Islands’ diverse peoples is quite usual. The issue has its origins in cultural isolation, the comparative size of the ethnic groups, the power of ancestors and spirituality, and translates to antagonisms in modern society. Before the protectorate administration began in 1896, there was interisland trade and marriage, accompanied by fighting, headhunting, and enslavement. Even closely related kin groups could hold animosities. Canoes were constantly on the move around the coasts of each island and between islands, and groups walked across and around islands, visiting kin, trading, and harvesting seasonal crops. Internecine fighting was ubiquitous. On plantations overseas and in the protectorate, there was also animosity between groups of labourers from different places, although the origins of Pijin, wantokism , and pan-island nationalism also date back to these same workplaces.

Sporting games can regularly cause overexcitement in an almost tribal or at least an island-centred manner. Elements of ethnic competition and rivalry are often present at sporting events at Lawson Tama and Town Ground. Lawson Tama is close to Chinatown, with the possibility of looting if any situation gets out of control. The area around Town Ground is also vulnerable as it includes shops, residential accommodation, and government offices. At such times, the police are always very careful in handling crowds. While many events have no relationship to alcoholic excess, once bans were lifted (between 1959 and 1965), alcohol became an extra element, exacerbated more recently by supplies of kwaso (home brew).

Solomon Islands is a nation of 900 islands, several of them large and populous, and all divided between descent and language groups. Solomon Mamaloni was correct when he said the nation owed its name to the Spanish and its modern boundaries to the British, who divided the BSIP into four regions for administrative purposes, whereas by his count there were 25 ‘island nations’ inside the Solomon Islands nation. Mamaloni is often quoted as saying: ‘Solomon Islands or “the Solomon Islands Community” has never been a Nation and will never be a nation and will never become one.’ 5

His words, written 30 years ago, still have a ring of truth about them. All of this influenced the political events that occurred in Honiara and the way in which the government attempted to ameliorate tense situations. Several cultural mechanisms, and their abuses, paved the way to the Tensions of 1998–2003. Some of the disputes that fed into the Tension years—Maasina Rule and the Moro Movement, for instance—occurred in the days of the British protectorate when an element of anti-government rhetoric was intertwined with the desire to re-establish customary legal systems. As outlined in the previous chapter, trade unions began in the 1960s, flexing their industrial muscle and making demands, which created a voice for working people and an understanding of the power of group action. On the government side, the colonial-era police soon realised that new control methods were needed, which led to the modernisation of the RSIPF during the 1950s. In the late 1960s, a police field force and riot squad were created. While not riots (although that was what Mamaloni called them) and not the first strike (Maasina Rule was the first labour strike), trade union demonstrations in the 1960s and 1970s were the first times the post-war BSIP Government had to deal with crowds of citizens in Honiara refusing to obey police orders. The ability (or lack) of the police to handle riots and civil discontent was part of the mix. In 1993, when Prime Minister Mamaloni authorised the purchase of high-powered weapons for the police (for use in relation to the Bougainville rebellion), this provided modern guns not previously available in Solomon Islands.

One peculiarity leading up to and during the Tension years was the way traditional compensation practices were corrupted. Paying cultural compensation is a standard procedure in Solomon Islands society, and has survived strongly on some islands, particularly Malaita. The origins of the compensation concept relate to payments with traditional valuables—livestock (usually pigs) and food—not modern currency. There are many reasons to demand compensation. After independence, the disputes became more political and a pattern emerged of offering cash payments as compensation. This escalated and, by the time of the Tensions, the practice was accepted as a normal process by the national government.

Compensation is a fundamental contradiction or tension between socially positive and socially destructive behaviours. Exchanges of traditional items maintain equilibrium in society after some slight—perhaps swearing at humans or ancestors, or at a pig destined for sacrifice, or because of insult, injury, or death. In Solomon Islands, a great deal of emphasis is placed on the language of respect within networks, based on age, gender, place, and kin. Any violation of these codes of conduct—for example, swearing and using profanities—can rapidly escalate into conflict, violence, and calls for retribution. In Solomon Islands, ‘swears’ (as they are referred to in Pijin) have to be heard to be believed. I am most familiar with Malaitan ‘swears’. They are vituperative and often involve human anatomy and ‘taboo’ bodily fluids such as blood and faeces. They are aimed at ancestors or even the mother or grandmother of the victim of the ‘swear’. I have never heard any European profane with anything like the intensity of an angry Solomon Islander in full flight. It is a refined cultural form intended to get a reaction and, fuelled by alcohol, it can reach eloquent heights. Compensation is usually demanded for a ‘swear’.

The Solomon Islands ‘nation’ was a British creation; the southern and northern boundaries are arbitrary, created to placate wider German and French colonial interests. Inter-district rivalry is not new. In June 1978, just before independence, a poem was published in the Solomon Star that denigrated the people of Western Province. Even now, it is seldom republished (to my knowledge, only once and never within Solomon Islands), such is the antagonism it caused. 6 Called Ode to the West Wind , it was scathingly derogatory of what the writer viewed as the high-handed ways of the people of the western Solomons. 7 The author was sent to prison and the national government paid SI$9,000 in compensation to Western Province—a sizeable amount more than 40 years ago. This was the beginning of national government payments of cash compensation for events that denigrated ethnic groups within the nation. Western Province—the province closest to Papua New Guinea, at the border with Bougainville—boycotted the 1978 independence ceremonies, not so much because of the poem, but because it wanted maximum autonomy and the National Constitution did not guarantee devolution of powers to the regions. It was eventually coaxed in by Prime Minister Kenilorea in 1979 with a series of ad hoc responses relating to the transfer of Choiseul land held by the national government, and negotiations over the future citizenship status of Gilbertese immigrants. 8 Although relations were patched together, it is a longstanding grievance and, when the Tensions began, once more, a Western breakaway movement emerged. Although phrased in terms of regional autonomy, there was an ethnic element based on the blackness of the Western people’s skin—a genetic characteristic that links them to Bougainville—and their belief that Western Province is the economic engine of the nation. 9

Another incident occurred during 1984–85, when people from the Kwaio language/culture area on Malaita boycotted the national elections because of lack of compensation for a devastating government-organised massacre in 1927, following the killing of their district officer, his deputy, and 13 police on a tax-collecting mission. 10 The ‘Kwaio Fadanga’ 11 had to be placated: Prime Minister Kenilorea made two trips to talk to the Kwaio, who demanded an almost meaningless SI$300 billion in compensation—best regarded as an ambit claim marking their extreme discontent. Kwaio anger had been simmering for decades. They presented the National Parliament with lists of the dead and items destroyed and raised the issue of compensation with the British High Commission, which refused to engage with an event so long ago. Kenilorea’s government paid no compensation. In his autobiography, Kenilorea shows discomfort about dealing with the Kwaio, even though his family is from a neighbouring area on Malaita and he knew Kwaio customs well. As anthropologist David Akin suggests, imbedded in the Kwaio demands was a desire that their customary law (‘ kastom law’) should also be recognised, not just British-derived law. They were also opposed to Christian beliefs that banned payments of compensation. There is evidence of this dialogue over law and kastom going back at least to the 1930s, and probably as far back as the plantations in Queensland and Fiji in the nineteenth century. A similar element permeates later demands for compensation in Honiara. At its core is non-recognition of the modern state’s legal system and a retreat to much older ways of seeking justice.

Kenilorea was responsible for beginning government-sponsored cash payments (to Western Province); Mamaloni took them to new heights. The next serious disturbance was in November 1989 when 5,000 mainly Malaitan youths rioted in Honiara. This riot was triggered by a ‘swear’ against Malaitans when insulting remarks were written on a shop door at Central Market, supposedly by a Polynesian man from Rennell and Bellona Province. Malaitan youths, fuelled by disenchantment with their lack of access to paid work, quite predictably reacted with anger and violence. Over four days, they used the incident as an excuse to loot stores in Chinatown and along Mendana Avenue. 12 Prime Minister Mamaloni took personal charge of the situation. He prided himself on being able to read the character of the various provinces and knew that antagonisms between Malaitans and Ren/Bels (as those from Rennell and Bellona are known) were longstanding. All Solomon Islanders are aware of this, and often use the ‘cats and dogs’ simile to describe interaction between the two groups. Although Rennell and Bellona people are few compared with Malaitans, this has never stopped violent interaction. Mamaloni ordered a swift response from the police, who used tear gas to disperse the mob. Access to Chinatown was blocked and the Tandai Highway was closed. White River settlement, with its substantial Malaitan and Ren/Bel populations, was cut off from the city. A few hours after the riot, Mamaloni went on SIBC radio to make a national address in Solomons Pijin. He pleaded for calm in the young nation and asked that the issue be settled through compensation payments. By 3 am, Police Minister Victor Ngele had negotiated a truce and a compensation payment of SI$200,000 from the national government to the Malaita Province Government.

A similar incident occurred in 1996. A man of Polynesian heritage from Reef Islands had supposedly cursed Malaitans at a Honiara night club. The next day, Malaitans assembled at Central Market and demonstrations began. There was a confrontation at the market when several Reef Islanders drew up in a truck and faced a mob of perhaps 1,000 Malaitans. They showed no fear, and the Malaitans showed restraint and respect for Reef fighting prowess. 13 Three days of tension followed. Chinese shops were looted, petrol bombs were readied, and threats were made to burn down Honiara. Shops and schools closed. The government capitulated, using its Community Development Fund to compensate both sides. The 1989 incident was quoted as a precedent for the level of compensation necessary during the Tensions, and Malaitan leaders also referred to kastom law as justification. Once again, it marginalised a weak central government and strengthened customary rights.

Unlike Western law, kastom law can vary from area to area, even on one island, and enormously between islands. Nor are kastom beliefs necessarily external to government processes, as public servants are sympathetic and often unhappy with the weakness of the state they serve. As David Akin concluded:

The political message that Malaitans delivered in Honiara’s streets was not only one of dissatisfaction with the government, but also one of defiance of government control over their island and their affairs. 14

The 1989 and 1996 riots revealed the underlying, simmering social and economic issues that would emerge fully blown in 1998. While Mamaloni solved the immediate problem in 1989, he was not forthcoming with longer-term solutions. In fact, he closed some schemes in Honiara to assist unemployed youths, seemingly to discourage a further flow of migrants from the provinces, particularly Malaita. He followed this strategy to deal with similar smaller riots and disturbances. Each time, the government provided cash compensation. In 1996, the disturbance was once more between Malaitans and Polynesian groups, the rhetoric directed at all Polynesians, including those from the eastern outer islands of Sikaiana (part of Malaita Province), Ontong Java Atoll, and Tikopia, plus Reef Islanders, who have a mixed Polynesian and Melanesian heritage. The 1990s riots all involved Malaitans and probably delayed reform of the National Constitution towards adopting a federal rather than a centralised government system. Although Malaitans make up one-third of the Solomons population, their province contains only one-sixth of the land area. This has led to large-scale migration to other provinces and substantial intermarriage outside their own province. The emphasis on central government and the provincial system enabled Malaitans to access services and employment in other provinces, while on Malaita itself there was very little ‘modern’ development. Malaitans need access to the other provinces to balance out their excess population and to access cash work. It was not clear how the smaller provinces (particularly Rennell and Bellona, and Temotu) could access enough funds under a system of state governments.

Not all prime ministers approved of cash compensation. Prime Minister Ulufa`alu did not, or at least he delayed too long, which was his undoing during the Tensions and led to him being forcibly deposed. In 2000, during Ulufa`alu’s term as leader, in response to Guale provocation, disaffected Malaitan young men gained access to guns in the police armouries, which began years of thuggery and extortion by members of the Malaita Eagle Force.

Cost of living in Honiara, 1998–2003

Another aspect of all this was that Honiara was then (and still is) an expensive place to live. Part of what was happening in the 1990s was increasing pressure on its residents, and a sense of hopelessness as conditions deteriorated. No one had faith that the national government was working to improve the situation. The Honiara Retail Price Index—the best gauge of living costs—constantly increased between 1989 and 1999, by an average of 10.7 per cent a year, which was not matched by increases in jobs and incomes. The highest increase was 15.2 per cent in 1991. Food prices increased markedly, as did the cost of alcohol and tobacco, clothing, footwear, housing, and utilities. A 1995 Honiara household income survey showed that many Solomon Islands families in Honiara received an average of only SI$619 (then about A$90) a month in income, and wages were only a small part of that figure. Much of their earnings came from selling their own garden produce, or from onselling other produce, such as betel nuts, from the provinces. The high level of inflation created desperate living conditions during these years, which were compounded during the Tensions. Many families survived on a diet of home-grown tapioca and green vegetables, and as little store-bought food as possible. 15

The government remained by far the biggest employer in Honiara, with a weak private sector trailing behind. In 1986, there were 29,178 males and 10,032 females employed in Honiara. In 1999, 39,761 males were employed, along with 17,711 females, showing female employment growing faster than for males. Jobs for women were mainly in wholesale and trading services, which were lower in pay and status. In the late 1990s, the beginning of the Gold Ridge mine in the central mountains of Guadalcanal (Maps 0.2 and 9.2) directly stimulated Honiara, which benefited through the development of infrastructure. The mine began operations in 1998, and the next year produced 130,000 ounces of gold, earning approximately US$36.4 million. The inhabitants of the mine site were resettled on the coastal plain 20 kilometres east of Honiara. 16 In 2020, that all seemed like a dream, with the mine closed and the tailings dam in a dangerous condition. The mining company offloaded the mine (and its responsibility for pollution from the tailings dam) to the local landowners for SI$100.

The 1970s–1990s lead-up to the Tension years

Social tensions that were beginning to build in the 1970s and 1980s finally exploded in 1998–99. 17 By the mid-1980s, the Guale were increasingly frustrated by the lack of economic benefits flowing to their province from the agricultural developments on Guadalcanal Plains, and the presence of an ever-expanding Honiara. As already mentioned, on the plains, the landowners owned only 2 per cent of the Commonwealth Development Corporation’s SIPL company, although they also received rent for each hectare. The national government held 30 per cent of SIPL, and the company held the rest. There was no involvement from the provincial government. By the time of the Tensions, the oil palm estate covered 6,000 hectares, with another 1,000 hectares still under negotiation, and was contributing around 20 per cent to the nation’s gross domestic product. When the Gold Ridge mine arranged land leases at a higher level of return, resentment swelled among the traditional owners of the SIPL land. In early 1999, the Ulufa`alu Government announced that as part of its privatisation plans, it wanted to reduce its holdings in SIPL from 30 to 10 per cent, selling the difference to CDC. Although the Guadalcanal Provincial Government objected, wanting the shares to be transferred to it, the financial needs of the national government were too great. A deal was done to sell 10 per cent of the national government’s SIPL holdings to Solomon Islanders, in a scheme managed by the Investment Corporation of Solomon Islands. This never occurred and the landowners were left with an unsatisfactory 2 per cent. 18

Map 9.2 Honiara (in black) and oil palm plantations (in grey) on Guadalcanal Plains, 2009.

Source: Jon Fraenkel Collection.

There were also difficult and violent elements among the Malaitan settlers on Guadalcanal Plains and in Honiara, who insisted on operating within Malaitan kastom realms, which were alien to Guale ways. The Guale felt that Malaitan customary ways were being substituted for their own and that they were losing control of their land. The situation was not unique in the Pacific Islands. For instance, the same has happened in Port Moresby, where migrants from the Highlands have overridden the local Motu–Koitapu peoples, who have lost control of large areas of their traditional (but now urban) land. Port Moresby’s barren hills were transformed into market gardens for industrious Highlanders. The Motu–Koitapu have not been able to compete in commerce with the Highlanders, who dominate transport and many of the small business ventures in the city. It has also happened in Lae, Papua New Guinea’s second-largest urban area, where Highlanders and north coast peoples have had easy access to the city via the highways. 19

While the storm gathered, the number of squatter settlements around Honiara increased. They occupied government-owned and Guale customary land under several arrangements. As explained in Chapter 5, the Guale had ‘sold off’ (or at least allowed settlement on) some of their lands around Honiara in a complex web of deals that combined cash with customary arrangements. Often, the arrangements were made between men, without involving Guale women, in a matrilineal society in which women were the custodians of the land. Many of the residents on THA/TOL land had been squatters in the 1970s and 1980s; their land had been incorporated into ‘formal’ arrangements within the boundaries of Honiara City Council. Squatters had also been living on Guadalcanal Plains to the east of Honiara since the 1960s, in ever-increasing numbers, often through customary arrangements with Guale landholders and through intermarriage. Map 6.2 shows the division of land on the Guadalcanal Plains in the 1970s. By the 1990s, there were thousands of settlers on the plains, mainly the families of SIPL employees, and in urban areas they had extended their occupancy far beyond the original customary or THA/TOL boundaries granted for their use. Although their personal rights were tenuous, Malaitan men who married Guale women had some rights through their wives and children. On Guadalcanal, at marriage, women move to their husband’s place of residence. Once they are young adults or their father dies, male children usually return to their mother’s land and establish themselves there through their relationships with maternal uncles. 20 Many of the newcomers (the migrants from elsewhere) paid no rent, securing their occupancy rights through friendship and kinship. For instance, one group at Abuabili had sweet potato gardens, the crops from which they sold at Honiara’s Central Market, giving a percentage of their profits to the local big-men in the Guale mamata (matrilineal landowning group). Chupu exchanges (explained in Chapter 5) were paid, but these only provided usufructuary rights for the lifetime of the individual to whom they were granted. Over several decades, the settlements became permanent, although in Guale customary law the settlers did not have permanent ownership rights. Nevertheless, they were inclined to interpret their presence in terms of land rights in the societies from which they originated. Once more, kastom was interacting with modern forms of settlement and causing contradictions. 21 The situation was made more complex by the interisland migration of families from the isolated and impoverished Weather Coast to the plains, and to Honiara. Their movements began in the 1950s and intensified from the 1970s.

The Tension years, 1998–2003 22

The greed of the national elite, most of whom lived in Honiara, was faintly recognisable in the immediate post-independence years (1978–86), and grew exponentially during the years of the logging boom (1987–98). Despite attempts since 2003 to pass anticorruption legislation, since RAMSI departed in mid-2017, corruption has cautiously increased, dampened but not thwarted by government attempts to monitor the practice and increasing numbers of civil society monitoring groups.

Honiara always had a high rate of inward migration. High proportions of the inhabitants supplemented their economic activities with ‘village work’—an indication of the importance of the subsistence and cash-crop gardens on the fringes of Honiara. 23 The lifestyles of residents in the settlements, particularly in squatter areas, were basic and lacked certainty. Poverty increased, as did unemployment. The ingredients for civil unrest were all present, mixed with issues surrounding federalism and constitutional reform, which have been argued over continuously since before independence in 1978.

There is a substantial literature describing the 1998–2003 Tensions and the RAMSI era that followed. 24 There was continuous civil disturbance and militancy that, although it did not affect the whole nation, strongly affected Guadalcanal, Malaita, and Western Province. In the last, it was because of evacuations to there from Honiara, Malaitans already living in the province, and its proximity to Bougainville. Although the circumstances were different, the Bougainville rebellion against the PNG Government was too close to be ignored. During the civil war on Bougainville (1988–98), both the PNG Defence Force and the Bougainville Revolutionary Army made incursions across the border into Western and Choiseul provinces. Around 9,000 Bougainvilleans fled to Solomon Islands, most to Guadalcanal, living there for several years, which meant Guale militants had some direct contact with Bougainville militants. 25

A long-term underlying reason for the Tensions was lack of economic development on heavily populated Malaita, which caused migration in search of work. Many of the migrants settled in and around Honiara, causing the population to overflow on to surrounding Guadalcanal land. 26 A related reason was Guale discontent with the lack of development on their island beyond the urban and peri-urban areas. There were troubles with unwelcome settlers around the oil palm plantations on the plains, and royalties from the oil palm plantations and the Gold Ridge mine. As well, the Guale lamented what they saw as a lack of respect for their culture. Key issues involved the rights both of free access for all citizens and of traditional custodians of the land. It is also fair to say that governance and political processes had deteriorated, and the rich were gathering wealth at the expense of the poorer majority of people, all of whom were increasingly frustrated as the great promises that had seemed to come with independence receded.

After growing disquiet over several decades, by 1998–99, some of the people of Guadalcanal finally lost patience. One indicative issue going back to 1988 were the multiple murders by Kwaio Malaitans at Mt Austen above Honiara. Anthropologist Roger Keesing’s analysis shows the collision between ‘two modes of life and two systems of meaning; and two moral and legal systems that barely communicate with one another’. 27 To many Guadalcanal people, this seemed to epitomise Malaitans living on their land riding roughshod over their customs. Encouraged by leaders who should have tried alternative approaches within the legal system, in the late 1990s, elements of the Guadalcanal people decided to take the law into their own hands. They purposefully and violently expelled fellow Solomon Islanders—predominantly Malaitan families living around the oil palm plantations on Guadalcanal Plains. Others from all provinces left Honiara once the situation became too dangerous; 28 between 25,000 and 35,000 people fled.

Plate 9.6 Prime Minister Ezekiel Alebua (1986–89), later Premier of Guadalcanal Province (1998–2003), during the Tensions.

He was wounded during an attempted assassination in 2001 and was later imprisoned for corruption.

The first militia formed was the Guadalcanal Revolutionary Army, which was later renamed the Isatabu Freedom Movement (IFM). Ezekiel Alebua, then Guadalcanal Premier (and former prime minister, 1986–89), and Sethuel Kelly (a former cabinet minister in the National Parliament) provoked discontent in a manner that was unseemly for national leaders. The behaviour of Alebua and other leading Guadalcanal political figures was probably treasonous, although they were never charged. 29 The turmoil and the mass expulsion were a major catastrophe for the citizens of Honiara and Guadalcanal. Thousands of refugees were dispossessed of their jobs, land, and homes, which led to the counter-formation of the Malaita Eagle Force (MEF), which comprised mainly Malaitans who were current or past residents of Honiara and Guadalcanal Plains. In cahoots with Malaitan sections of the police, the MEF took control of Honiara. The IFM and MEF clashed over the next several years. Raids and atrocities became the norm, homes and schools were burned, and no-go zones with roadblocks were declared. The quasi-militant groups fought more through skirmishes than through battles. It was a disastrous situation that brought no credit to either side. Both groups performed traditional magic said to impart martial invincibility—a Solomons touch to modern military confrontation. 30

Despite national and international attempts to mediate, the government found itself increasingly unable to control the situation. Then, in a June 2000 coup, Malaitans in the police force removed Prime Minister Ulufa`alu, forcing his resignation. The next two governments, led by prime ministers Sogavare and Kemakeza, failed to regain control. All three prime ministers pleaded for international intervention, which eventually came in July 2003 in the form of the Australian-controlled, Pacific Islands Forum–sponsored Regional Assistance Mission to Solomon Islands (RAMSI), which restored law and order and set about strengthening sagging central government processes.

Plate 9.7 Bartholomew Ulufa`alu, Prime Minister of Solomon Islands (1997–2000), addresses the UN General Assembly in New York on 30 September 1999.

He was deposed during a coup on 5 June 2000 and resigned on 14 June. He became leader of the opposition and finance minister in the Sogavare Government in 2006. He died in 2007 after a long battle with diabetes.

Source: UN Photo/Eskinder Debebe, UNO Image 384479, available from: un.org/en/conferences/small-islands/newyork1999 .

Until then life in Honiara was difficult and dangerous. The police were compromised and largely under MEF control. 31 Terrible things happened. Beheadings and torture occurred: a headless Guale corpse was left in Central Market and, in retaliation, the head of an MEF member was presented to the Multinational Police Assistance Group. There were also assassinations: seven Melanesian religious Brothers were executed on the Weather Coast by Harold Keke and his Guale group; IFM leader Selwyn Saki was killed, his throat cut, and his body mutilated; Father Augustine Geve, the Minister for Youth, Sport and Women, was killed, as was former Police Commissioner Sir Frederick Soaki. Two masked men killed two Guadalcanal militants while they were in a locked ward in hospital in Honiara. 32 People left Honiara to avoid the worst of the confrontations. Solomon Islanders remember the feeling of helplessness during the Tension years. In 2017, reflecting on the Tensions, Sir Allan Kemakeza said:

We were basically a lawless state with armed criminal militia creating a feeling of fear throughout all layers of the community and impacting all our day to day lives. The impact on the economy was crippling. 33

Fraudulent ‘fast money’ and ‘pyramid’ schemes circulated. One in 2002 was the Princess Diana Family Charity Fund, which was calculated to dupe an already poor and desperate urban population. Another, the Royal Association of Nations and Kingdoms, tempted the Kemakeza Government with an offer of a US$2.6 billion grant. 34 Compensation claims, exploitation, and intimidation became endemic, frightening, and constant. The list below is a sample. In 1998, Premier Alebua announced that his province wanted SI$50 payments for every non-Guale in Honiara and a further payment of SI$100,000 for each of the 24 Guale killed by Malaitans ‘for no reason’ since independence. In 1999, the national government paid Guadalcanal Province SI$2.5 million as compensation for ‘hosting’ the capital city and consequent social disruption, but this did not stop attempts to remove Malaitans from Guadalcanal. Often government ministers felt so intimidated they handed over cash to try to ameliorate thuggery. The total amount is difficult to calculate. For instance, in 2000, SI$100,000 went to individuals involved in special police operations, many with fictitious names, and Prime Minister Ulufa`alu offered both Guadalcanal and Malaita provinces SI$5 million in compensation for incidents in which chiefs had been sworn at or shown disrespect. The money paid to Guadalcanal Province was not accounted for by Premier Alebua, and the money for Malaita Province was seized by the MEF and never reached the province’s bank account. The MEF demanded a further SI$50 million. The Honiara Casino was robbed of SI$100,000 in cash. In 2001, the ‘special constables’ absorbed SI$11 million. Businesses were harassed for money and goods were ‘requisitioned’, vehicle theft and housebreaking were daily events, and government property was looted. Four-wheel-drive vehicles, particularly new ones owned by members of the diplomatic corps, were keenly sought after for ‘road testing’ on Malaita. In the 12 months from August 2000, the government gave out SI$140 million in duty remissions, many of them to ex-MEF commanders who had gone into business. Jimmy ‘Rasta’ Lusibaea received 100 per cent remissions on SI$280,000 of alcohol imported for his bottle shop, and another SI$60,000 in cash compensation for an incident in Fishing Village. More than 300 vehicles entered the country without import tax being paid, plus millions of dollars of duty were forgone on imported tobacco and alcohol. In the lead-up to the 2001 national election, the government paid out more than SI$15 million to ex-militants, police, and politicians, using Taiwanese aid money intended to compensate displaced people. 35

The total amount rorted was huge and could never be justified in a bankrupt nation. Nevertheless, what happened was often done as a compromise to keep the government functioning at even a minimal level. We need to put ourselves in the shoes of the government ministers and think about what we would do if militants entered our offices and threatened us and our families. Prime ministers Ulufa`alu, Sogavare, and Kemakeza, and their ministerial colleagues can all be criticised, but they were in an unwinnable and unenviable situation. External intervention should probably have come earlier, in about 2000, by which time the downward spiral was clear. 36 The government of Prime Minister John Howard in Australia was guided by Foreign Minister Alexander Downer, who dithered. Howard, Downer, and their advisors had no idea how to deal with the dire situation, and it showed. Previously, Australia had been reluctant to interfere directly in the affairs of its Pacific neighbours. The move to restore law and order and shore up government processes in Solomon Islands began a new chapter in Australian foreign policy. The final answer was RAMSI, which was sent in to regain control.

The Pacific Islands Forum and RAMSI, 2003–17 37

Most of RAMSI’s personnel were based in Honiara. The foreign army and police force members lived in barracks on the edge of town. Although the economy of Honiara was still directly affected by inflation in house prices, RAMSI public servants were entitled to accommodation commensurate with what they could expect elsewhere, and extra NGO staff were based in Honiara. Restaurants flourished and hotels were usually full, with many permanent occupants (some staff spent years living in hotels). Honiara also gained many more high-end four-wheel-drive vehicles, adding to the already worsening traffic. 38 RAMSI tried to quarantine its effect on the overall economy and, although much of its spending was ‘boomerang’ aid that ended up in the pockets of overseas employees and companies, there was a considerable boost to Honiara’s economy. On the plus side, Honiara developed coffee shops like Lime Lounge, Bamboo Bar, and Breakwater Café, where, for the first time, residents could partake of a quality cappuccino or espresso coffee (at international prices).

The Tensions were a low-level conflict, and unique in the Pacific, with Bougainville’s rebellion as the closest equivalent, although the circumstances were different. There, the fight was against the national government, which used its army and mercenaries against the rebels. The Solomons’ dispute was largely on Guadalcanal between people from two provinces, Guadalcanal and Malaita, and had its basis in long-term development issues. 39 Government processes deteriorated to such an extent that academics debated whether the nation was a ‘failing’ or ‘failed’ state. It was not in Australia’s interests to have uncertainty on its doorstep, particularly when there was also political volatility in Papua New Guinea, Vanuatu, and Fiji. Australian leaders and the strategic community began talking about an ‘arc of instability’. 40 To deal with the Tensions crisis, in 2003, the Pacific Islands Forum invoked the 2000 Biketawa Declaration, which outlined guiding principles for good governance and courses of action for responding to crises in the region.

The Pacific Islands Forum’s intervention in Solomon Islands was an unprecedented response, and it was also the first time Australia and New Zealand had led a substantial intervention mission beyond their borders that was not under UN auspices. It was an important learning experience for all Pacific Island states, as well as for Australia and New Zealand. There was no blueprint and there were some dead ends and major errors along the way, both from RAMSI and from the Solomon Islands Government. Unlike the situations in East Timor and Kosovo, RAMSI did not take over executive authority. Legally, the sovereignty of the independent Solomon Islands nation continued. There was never any suggestion of a transfer of sovereignty, which would have been against the terms of the Biketawa Declaration. 41 The RAMSI agreement was supposed to be renewed annually by the National Parliament, although this did not always happen. It could have been cancelled had the Solomon Islands Government chosen to do so. This made the situation very different from East Timor and Bougainville.

Large-scale Australian and New Zealand involvement in Solomon Islands’ affairs was new. Within the Pacific, Australia had previously concentrated on its former colonial territory of Papua New Guinea, showing minimal interest in the former British protectorate across the border. Australia’s annual aid package to Solomon Islands between 1991 and 1998 averaged A$13.3 million—equal to that given to Samoa. Then, suddenly, Australian aid to Solomon Islands increased to A$18.7 million in 1999–2000, and A$20.4 million in 2000–01. It kept increasing and, once RAMSI was established, was always more than A$200 million a year. Similarly, New Zealand—commensurate to its smaller size—increased its aid package, to NZ$13 million in 2003 and spending NZ$347 million between 2003 and 2013. 42 By the time RAMSI was disbanded, Australia had spent A$2.8 billion and New Zealand around half a billion dollars. Suddenly, Australians, New Zealanders, and staff from every Pacific Islands Forum nation were very visible. This foreign intervention in law enforcement and bureaucratic agencies altered Honiara. The decade and half of the RAMSI presence created a more ethnically and racially diverse community, and an alternative power base to the central government. RAMSI has been factored into Figure 0.1 in the Introduction, depicting the changing Honiara ‘worlds’. Solomon Islanders were exposed to outsiders with good intentions, who were there to make RAMSI and other aid packages work. Most were based in Honiara, although RAMSI and aid project workers travelled widely. The Solomon Islands Government also received many analytical reports on all aspects of government, the economy, and society, which have helped shape and guide subsequent administrative processes.

Most international peacekeeping exercises occur in the wake of civil wars or conflicts between nations. RAMSI was an intervention in a nation with no army (other than the small Royal Solomon Islands Police Field Force) and very few guns. However, Prime Minister Mamaloni’s purchase of guns for the police in the early 1990s meant that after raiding the police and prison armouries, the MEF was far better equipped with high-powered weapons than the IFM.

The Solomon Islands conflict was primarily between two civilian militias and between the militias and the police, with overlap between them, particularly between the police and the MEF. Another important difference was that, when measured against many similar events internationally, both the death and the injury rates were low. Nevertheless, the social disruption in a small nation and a small capital city, replete with village-like neighbourhoods, was immense. While there was suffering because health, education, and other government services were either unavailable or declined, if one stands back and examines the Tension-related deaths, many around Honiara, they probably number around 200 (the Truth and Reconciliation Commission’s estimate). A larger number died nationwide from lack of access to health services—perhaps another 1,000. If we compare this with other nations that have hosted large peacekeeping missions (East Timor, Iraq, Bosnia, and Sierra Leone) or have faced large internal disputes and genocide (Rwanda, Burundi, and Iraq), the figure is low. Overall, there was a degree of restraint. A lot of posturing occurred, but violent confrontation was relatively rare. For instance, compare the figures above with the estimated 5,000 deaths in Bougainville (1988–98) 43 and a reported 60,000 to 100,000 deaths in Timor (1975–98). 44

While the nation mourned the Solomon Islanders and RAMSI staff who died, the low fatality rate shows something about dispute-resolution mechanisms in Solomon Islands. The Tension years were moderated by dispute-resolution approaches that reached back into pre-colonial social mechanisms, mixed with Christian tolerance, and other changes since colonial intervention began in the 1890s. While some individuals and groups abused compensation mechanisms outrageously, kastom also played its part in maintaining equilibrium.

A background understanding of what occurred during the 1990s and early 2000s went into RAMSI planning and created its initial success. There was no armed resistance to RAMSI and most of the population (including many of the militants) welcomed the intervention. Although in the beginning there was a substantial military component (the Combined Task Force), the law and order face of the mission was largely led by the Participating Police Force (PPF), which remained an important section of RAMSI, helping to rebuild the RSIPF. No amnesties were offered (which had been a feature of pre-RAMSI peace negotiations), except for the return of firearms. All of this had implications for the command-and-control structure, and the role of the RAMSI Special Coordinators, all of whom were Australian, with the implications of an Australian agenda. Australia ran the operation and paid the majority of RAMSI’s bills. This was the largest peacekeeping expense Australia has incurred, and it brought Solomon Islands into Australia’s orbit in a way it never had been before. This change in the relationship continues.

Plate 9.8 RAMSI soldiers and RSIPF officers talking to a school group, 2000s.

Source: RAMSI Archives.

Plate 9.9 RAMSI soldiers outside the Magistrate’s Court in Honiara, 2006.

The arrival of the RAMSI forces restored peace to Honiara and neighbouring parts of Guadalcanal. Solomon Islands differs from Papua New Guinea and Fiji in that it never had military forces, only police. The Guadalcanal and Malaitan militants introduced weapons, then RAMSI military forces arrived with armed forces and police. Between 1998 and 2004, Solomon Islands shifted very quickly from a society in which there were very few guns to a militarised community. Initially, there were about 2,000 RAMSI armed services personnel, police, development advisers, and public servants—the majority from Australia, with lesser representation from the other participant nations. By late 2003, 3,700 weapons had been surrendered. Although a few high-powered weapons escaped the net and are still buried around Honiara and on Malaita, the surrender of weapons and ammunition was largely a success, leaving Solomon Islands relatively gun-free. More than half of the troops were withdrawn by the end of 2003, and others left in February and March 2004, leaving behind about 200 police, a few dozen armed forces personnel, and senior public servants in ‘line’ positions. Although the initial RAMSI activities were accomplished without loss of life, two RAMSI personnel died in action: an Australian police officer was deliberately killed by a sniper in Honiara in December 2004, and another died through misadventure the following March. Four others died while serving in RAMSI.

After strengthening the court facilities and legal system, RAMSI methodically pursued the main corrupt and criminal figures. Many of the key militants faced trial. By November 2003, more than 80 police had been charged, including very senior officers. Members of the MEF supreme council, some IFM leaders, and some politicians, including two former prime ministers, Ezekiel Alebua and Sir Alan Kemakeza, served prison sentences for a variety of crimes. The military presence was more obvious in the first few years, when armed personnel patrolled Honiara’s main streets, toting high-powered guns, and helicopters supervised from the sky. In the 2010s, they were more often confined to barracks and less obvious. After the gun amnesty, the second and third phases of RAMSI involved institutional and economic rehabilitation. RAMSI was wound down from 2013 and made a full exit in mid-2017, with aid assistance reverting to the Australian and New Zealand high commissions and other donors, particularly the Republic of China (Taiwan), Japan, and the European Union. Since 2020, the People’s Republic of China has replaced Taiwan as a major donor.

RAMSI was always much more than a policing operation and, although on occasions RAMSI opposed government policies, it was never a government. A large amount of development assistance went to rebuilding the machinery of government. This was the ‘Three Pillars’ approach: restructuring the police, institutional strengthening and accountability, and economic reform. RAMSI and the Solomon Islands Government learnt to be flexible with the agenda, perhaps more so than they usually admitted. Much of the public image was of the Special Coordinators and the smiling PPF. Their activities were far more photogenic than public servants quietly working away behind computers in the Treasury and the courts. Yet there remain unanswered questions. RAMSI largely chose its own agenda, but was it the right one to reorient and rehabilitate the nation? Did RAMSI take sufficient steps to leave behind a functioning reliable bureaucracy to run the nation? Should the RAMSI staff have been kept only in advisory positions and not placed in ‘line’ positions where they were integrated into the public service? Was the re-localisation process effective? Did any of the RAMSI-era governments really support the ‘Three Pillars’ approach? The Solomon Islands Government supposedly gave priority to reconciliation and facilitated the Truth and Reconciliation Commission between 2009 and 2012. RAMSI did not, seeing this as beyond its mandate. The commission’s report was eventually presented to the National Parliament in September 2014, at the end of Prime Minister Gordon Darcy Lilo’s term, although few of its recommendations have been enacted. 45

There has been no equivalent intervention in any other Pacific nation against which to judge RAMSI’s success or failure. Although there was constant outreach to the provinces, much of the work was centred on Honiara, emanating from RAMSI bases at what were previously Lelei Resort in west Honiara, Guadalcanal Beach Resort at Kukum Beach, and in the government ministries. Between 2003 and 2006, RAMSI was overconfident about its success. In the initial phase, guns and ammunition were speedily removed. Solomon Islanders collectively breathed a sigh of relief. RAMSI then worked on its long-term agenda. Unexpectedly, 2006 was RAMSI’s worst year. The organisation (through the PPF) must bear a great deal of the responsibility for mishandling the riots in Honiara after the election of Snyder Rini as prime minister. They were not the first riots in Honiara, but they came when the RSIPF was weak and the PPF was in control. The PPF, largely consisting of Australian Federal Police and seconded state police, who were used to dealing with Australian-style civil unrest, had no idea of the capabilities of a fast-moving Honiara mob. They misjudged the situation and could not rely on the new RSIPF constables, who were not trained to deal with such an emergency. The result was a riot that began at the National Parliament, damaged areas at Point Cruz and around Central Market, and caused immense damage in Chinatown and the Pacific Casino Hotel. 46 Perhaps more interesting than the buildings torched were those that were not: QQQ and Honiara Hotel escaped damage. The Quan and Chan families are old waku : married into Solomon Islander families, they used indigenous cultural mechanisms to survive. The PPF and RAMSI learned a salutary lesson: policing techniques that work well in Australia and New Zealand do not necessarily work well in Honiara with a depleted police force. A stronger and more focused RAMSI emerged, and there were also signs that RAMSI’s sponsors began to consider a timeframe for withdrawal, or at least a transition to bilateral and multilateral aid programs. 47

Plate 9.10 The entrance of the Pacific Casino Hotel burning during the April 2006 riot.

Source: Garry Scott Collection.

Plate 9.11 Burnt-out buildings in Chinatown after the April 2006 riot.

Plate 9.12 The Quan family’s QQQ store in Chinatown, 2006, which was not harmed during the riots.

Overall, RAMSI commanded broad respect in the community, although, even with its large budget, there were limitations on what could be accomplished. At various times, particularly in 2005 and 2010, the Solomon Islands Government considered placing limits on RAMSI. Equally, there was rethinking of New Zealand and Australian aid preferences towards bilateral programs. Could it be that RAMSI altered direction after the low ebb of 2006–07 and, after about 2010, was out of kilter with the aims of Solomon Islands governments? Prime Minister Danny Philip’s government (2010–11) promoted a five-year exit program, causing friction with Australia, which advocated an open-ended commitment. Did RAMSI stay too long? And why did relations between the government and RAMSI seemingly improve in the final years? Or was it just that the verbal sparring was less obvious? In 2003, Sogavare was a trenchant critic of the original RAMSI concept and, as prime minister (2006–07), he crossed swords with Australia when his government expelled Australian High Commissioner Patrick Cole over alleged interference in a commission of inquiry relating to the April 2006 riots, and over Australia’s opposition to Sogavare’s appointment of Attorney-General Julian Moti. 48 Eventually, the High Court of Australia found against the Australian Government for its flagrant manipulations of the law over Moti. Yet, at the RAMSI farewell, Moti’s and Cole’s names never passed Sogavare’s lips. 49

RAMSI’s strengths were its ability to constantly reinvent itself in changing circumstances, while declaring that there was a steadfast long-term plan, and its excellent public relations team headed by ace journalist Mary-Louise O’Callaghan, who always managed to present a glowing picture. The RAMSI coordinators were also very skilled diplomats. Despite the ‘Three Pillars’ rhetoric, there was not one set of goals enunciated in 2003 and followed through. RAMSI learnt along the way and was largely able to run its own agenda with a degree of flexibility.

While the outside intervention has been judged a success, it could never have succeeded without the strength of Solomon Islands society and its own ways of handling cultural complexity. The Tension years brought local institutions to the fore as guiding mechanisms when the state apparatus faltered. The importance of the churches, women, and community government has always been there, but has increased. There were a resilience and manner of behaviour that came from living in diverse communities, as well as the core strength of the cultures. As Reverend Philemon Riti said in his presentation at the June 2017 RAMSI exit symposium, Solomon Islands came ‘already equipped with a culture’. This strength prevailed and was the real glue that made the RAMSI years a success, even down to the politicians’ ability to compromise. The success did not come from imposed or refurbished government institutions. The place of religion in the nation has always been strong. One theme in the speeches to parliament in RAMSI’s last week in June 2017 and in many other presentations and speeches heard at the time was the power of Christianity in providing basic guiding principles for the nation. The churches continue to be essential in the peace-building process.

Although there is a core cultural strength, no one would say all Solomons traditions are suitable for the modern world. Among those not compatible with the future of government and the modern economy and society are gender structures that give emphasis to males and do not fully utilise the joint strength of males and females in creating the modern nation. RAMSI and other aid agencies quietly worked towards the normalisation and valuing of the role of women in all aspects of government and society. The empowerment of women continues to be an important aspect of nation-building. Whereas once women made up 3 per cent of the officers in the RSIPF, by 2016, the figure was a more respectable 20 per cent, and 24 per cent in 2019. The policy since 2017 has been to recruit equal numbers of male and female police each year. While there is much room for improvement, there is now a better recognition that gender equity is necessary to create a modern nation. 50

Using social mechanisms to remodel society was beyond RAMSI’s brief and is best achieved by Solomon Islanders. One issue is to what extent the 2008–12 Truth and Reconciliation Commission’s findings have been implemented. Reconciliation remains crucial to the process through which Solomon Islanders come to terms with what happened. In the final days of RAMSI, Prime Minister Sogavare made clear that he felt that RAMSI had acquitted its mandate well and that his government remained committed to implementing the Truth and Reconciliation Commission’s findings, with a reparation framework in place. Lessons have been learned and, despite a few political storms over the Coral Sea, there has been goodwill on all sides. As several participants in the final RAMSI symposium noted, errors were made at crucial junctures. This was to be expected with such a unique, unprecedented Pacific intervention involving many diverse personnel working in difficult situations over many years. Through RAMSI, regional relationships have been strengthened and Pacific countries have been brought closer together through a common cause.

Plate 9.13 The RAMSI Memorial in Honiara, opened in June 2017.

At its most basic level, RAMSI was about people and goodwill. It was important to Solomon Islanders that RAMSI was a Pacific-wide operation. Bringing other Pacific Islanders into Solomon Islands was part of its success. There was a cultural energy created that reverberated among Solomon Islanders, who appreciated that other Pacific Islanders had come to help them restore normality and progress. This component gave Solomon Islanders confidence in their own ability to move their nation forward.

Many of the underlying causes of the Tensions have not yet been satisfactorily resolved. Perhaps they never will be. Aspects of gender, leadership, corruption, land, logging, decentralisation of development, and urbanisation remain difficult issues. In particular, the increasing size of the national capital’s population is a unique challenge. Decisions must be made about Honiara’s future, and soon.

Plate 9.14 The Solomon Islands National Parliament building, built in 1994, was a gift from the US Government.

It sits high on Vavaea Ridge overlooking Point Cruz. This photograph is from 2007.

The people of Guadalcanal have every right to expect more substantial recompense for the economic and urban developments that have occurred in their province since World War II. They would benefit from any move towards federalism and more regional-level government, enabling strengthening of provincial authority. There are still vast anomalies in development on the island, particularly between the north coast and the remote and impoverished southern Weather Coast. There is also the question of what are acceptable styles of leadership and development. Not everyone believes that logging, mining, and large-scale commercial agricultural production are the answer. A large proportion of people still live in rural areas. They operate under local land tenure systems and support the value of maintaining ‘traditional’ cultures and kastom . There are philosophical issues at stake relating to what type of nation Solomon Islanders want their grandchildren to inherit. 51

Plate 9.15 Prime Minister Sir Allan Kemakeza (2001–06).

Plate 9.16 Prime Minister Rick Hounipwela (2017–19).

Source: Press Secretariat, Office of Prime Minister and Cabinet, Solomon Islands Government.

Plate 9.17 Prime Minister Manasseh Sogavare (2000–01, 2006–07, 2014–17, 2019–).

1 Keen et al. 2017: 19.

2 Oram 1980: 135–36.

3 SIG 2019c: ‘Projected Population by Province, 2010–25’.

4 SIG 1988b: 12, 14, 15.

5 Mamaloni 1992: 10.

6 Fraenkel 2004: 116.

7 SND , 9 June 1978.

8 Premdas et al. 1984.

9 Scales 2007.

10 Moore 2017a: 404–12, 2019: 227–43; Keesing and Corris 1980.

11 Fadanga means meeting or discussion. It developed into a political pressure group, operating mainly in the Kwaio language area on Malaita, and in Honiara in a small way. Akin 1999; Kenilorea 2008: 267–71.

12 SS , 17 November 1989, 10.

13 From an eyewitness account.

14 Akin 1999: 61.

15 Otter 2002: 65, ‘Honiara Income Distribution Survey, 1995’.

16 SIG 2001: 25; Tolia and Petterson 2005.

17 Moore 2004a; Fraenkel 2004; Keesing 1995.

18 Moore 2004a: 73–75.

19 Stuart 1970; Oram 1976; Strathern 1975; Willis 1974: 145–53.

20 Allen 2012a: 302.

21 ibid., 92; Lasaqa 1968; Fraenkel et al. 2010: 67; Allen 2012a.

22 An earlier version of this section was published in Moore 2018.

23 SIG 1988b: 23, 27; Atai 2017. A 2017 report suggests that 79 per cent of Honiara residents are involved in some form of agriculture. SIG 2019d: xiv, 15, Table 4.1.

24 Allen 2007, 2013; Braithwaite et al. 2010; Liloqula and Pollard 2007; Naitoro 2000; Kabutaulaka 2002b. For the literature on Solomon Islands during the RAMSI years, see Moore 2017b .

25 Kabutaulaka 2001: 16; Moore 2004a: 13–14, 53, 97–98; Fraenkel 2004: 127–28.

26 Moore 2007b.

27 Keesing 1995.

28 Allen 2012b: 164.

29 There will never be agreement on this point. Moore 2004a: 105, 2018: 167, fn. 8. See also Fraenkel 2004: 47–48.

30 Allen 2013: Figure 2.3, pp. 41, 127. Malaitan informants have told me similar stories.

31 Short 2015.

32 Moore 2004b: 4, 131, 141, 152, 190; Carter 2006; Macdonald-Milne 2020: 204–9.

33 Kemakeza 2017.

34 Kabutaulaka 2004: 395.

35 Fraenkel 2004: 124, 145; Moore 2004a: 160–63, 168.

36 Moore 2004a: 106, 114, 133, 135, 139–40, 168.

37 An earlier draft of this section was published as Moore 2018.

38 Moore 2007a.

39 Moore 2007b.

40 Fraenkel 2005; Dobell 2012.

41 Interestingly, when Prime Minister Sogavare spoke at the Lowy Institute in Sydney, in conversation with James Batley in mid-August 2017, he claimed that his early opposition to RAMSI was due to there being a plan to suspend sovereignty. There is no evidence this was ever contemplated.

42 Moore 2004a: 120–21; New Zealand Government 2003; Fraenkel et al. 2014: 85.

43 Regan 2013: 123.

44 Rimmer 2013. It needs to be acknowledged that the population of East Timor in 1975 was approximately 630,000, whereas Bougainville had approximately 200,000 people in 1990. This would mean the fatalities in the Indonesian invasion and occupation of East Timor were about four to five times greater than Bougainville’s during the conflict with Papua New Guinea.

45 Prime Minister Lilo tabled the report at the very end of his term (on 5 September 2014). The document does not seem to have been made available through the parliament, although it was published unofficially. There has been minimal debate on the report in the National Parliament or elsewhere. SIG 2014b.

46 Moore 2008a.

47 Allen 2011; Allen and Dinnen 2015, 2016; O’Callaghan 2013.

48 Colvin 2006; Dorney 2006.

49 Moore 2008b, 2008c; Merrell 2017; Nelson 2007.

50 Tavola et al. 2016; SIG 2019b; Brigg 2018; George and Soakai 2020.

51 Aqorau 2011.

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Solomon Islands Diving Limited, trading as Tulagi Dive was established in 2002 and was originally based in Tulagi. Tulagi Dive has built a reputaion as one of the best Training and Tech Diving destinations in the Solomons.

Tulagi Dive is a full service dive centre next door to the Point Cruz Yacht Club on Honiara’s waterfront. Equipped with both a truck and boat, we offer shore diving on the various wrecks along the shoreline of Guadalcanal, and trips across Iron Bottom Sound to various sites on the Florida Islands.

Contact Details

• Point Cruz Yacht Club, Honiara, Solomon Islands

(677) 25700

(677) 84 83726

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www.tulagidive.com/

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The Archives

PCYC Point Cruz Yacht club Honiara is the official Facebook page of the Point Cruz Yacht Club, a premier club for sailing and fishing enthusiasts in the Solomon Islands. Follow the page to get the latest news, events and photos of the club and its members.

Point Cruz Yacht Club. The Point Cruz Yacht Club is located in the Point Cruz suburb and overlooks the Savo and Florida Islands. The new clubhouse of the Point Cruz Yacht Club in Honiara was opened by its Commodore, High Commissioner Sir Robert Foster, on 15 August 1964. As at 2012 there are 7 visiting cruising yachts here all swinging free on ...

Point Cruz Yacht Club is a social and recreational club in Honiara, Solomon Islands. It offers sailing, fishing, dining and entertainment facilities for its members and guests. Join the club or visit its Facebook page to learn more.

Since World War II, the capital city of Honiara has grown along Guadalcanal's north coast: from Henderson Field, as U.S. soldiers renamed the airfield, to suburban Point Cruz. Galloping Horse Ridge runs east to west just south of its outskirts. The "ridge" is actually a series of steep hills and ravines that, when viewed on a map ...

POINT CRUZ YACHT CLUB - Facebook ... members club.

Point Cruz Yacht Club, Honiara - Solomon Islands. That's where everything began! That's where we first saw and fell in love with our sailing boat "Marianne". We spent 3 wonderful weeks anchoring at Point Cruz Yacht Club in Honiara. We quickly signed the bill of sale, before Paul, the old owner, could change his mind…. The owner of the ...

'Honiara' is a Ghari language name for the piece of land west of Point Cruz, the site of today's Yacht Club, the Kitano Mendana Hotel, and the old Government House which is now the site of the Heritage Park Hotel. Naho-ni-ara means 'facing the ara', the place where the southeast winds meet the land. Honiara sits on a curving section of the ...

Point Cruz Yacht Club, Yacht Club (Honiara, SB, 09° 25′ 46″ S / 159° 57′ 18″ E) :: marinamap.com - Nautical Search Engine and Voyage Planner: Finding marinas by mouseclick on the marinamap sea chart.

Point Cruz Yacht Club - Corporate entry - Solomon Islands Encyclopaedia, 1893-1978, NAME is a biographical, bibliographical and archival database of SUBJECT with links to related articles and images. ... The new clubhouse of the Point Cruz Yacht Club in Honiara was opened by its Commodore, High Commissioner Sir Robert Foster, on 15 August 1964 ...

The favored hangout of ex-pats in Honiara, the yacht club has a variety of simple and inexpensive meals available nightly. ... Board a boat at Point Cruz to travel to the Central Province to see the area's famous World War II historical sites. Visit Gavutu Island where the Japanese built a big wharf during the war and Tokyo Bay where many ...

11. Point Cruz Yacht Club. ... Pacific Crown Hotel, and Honiara Pacific Hotel. Point Cruz: Point Cruz is a residential area located near the waterfront and offers a peaceful atmosphere. This area has a few hotels and guesthouses, such as The Pacific Hotel, King Solomon's Palace, and Iron Bottom Sound Hotel. ...

Approach Point Cruz lining up the post in front of the yacht club with the post further up on the hill. There are green and red (unlit) buoys marking the entrance. The latest C-MAP ED3 2012 is correct, some of the older C-MAP ED2 show you off to the W on the reef. Updated Oct 2012 by Kestrahl. Entrance. Honiara is

History's constant close proximity on Guadalcanal was driven home to me one evening, as Innes and I were relaxing at Honiara's Point Cruz Yacht Club, overlooking Savo and Florida Islands. About 20 paces away was a plaque memorializing Signalman Douglas Munro, and I realized I was gazing out on the site where Munro had earned the ...

Point Cruz Yacht Club, Honiara. Page 123 SOLOMON ISLANDS currently not well understood due to a lack of recent data. Power generation: The Solomon's has significant potential for hydropower generation for large, mini and micro hydroelectricity. Apart from some small localised

The Point Cruz Yacht Club is an institution among expats in Honiara. It offers a relaxed atmosphere, good food and drink and wonderful views over Iron Bottom Sound out to Savo Island across the sunken wrecks of a large number of American and Japanese warships as well as that of HMAS Canberra which was sunk by Japanese cruisers in the first battle of Savo Island on 17th June 1942. The two ...

A photo of the memorial to Douglas Munro at the Point Cruz Yacht Club, Honiara, Guadalcanal, Solomon Islands. The landing craft were dispatched from Lunga Base. Douglas Munro, just two weeks short of his twenty-third birthday, took charge of ten LCPs and LCTs (tank lighters) to transport Puller's men from Lunga Point to a small cove west of ...

Point Cruz Yacht Club Honiara. See 3 social pages including Facebook and Google, Hours, Phone, Website and more for this business. 3.0 Cybo Score. Point Cruz Yacht Club is working in Bars, pubs and taverns, Pharmacies and drug stores activities. Review on Cybo.

Point Cruz Yacht Club Junior Sailing, Honiara, Solomon Islands. 179 likes. junior sailing training sessions saturdays weekly from 10am to 3pm

The Point Cruz Yacht Club and the government patrol boat base are on the western side. Increasingly, Honiara has the infrastructure of a modern city, yet the basic geography—Point Cruz, the Mataniko River, the narrow coastal strip, the low ridges, and the many valleys in between—will always shape development.

Solomon Islands Diving Limited, trading as Tulagi Dive was established in 2002 and was originally based in Tulagi. Tulagi Dive has built a reputaion as one of the best Training and Tech Diving destinations in the Solomons. Tulagi Dive is a full service dive centre next door to the Point Cruz Yacht Club on Honiara's waterfront.

Point Cruz Yacht Club, Honiara. Ghizo, Solomon Islands. September 15, 2004. Honiara, Solomon Islands. Jim. Honiara is the "Big Smoke" in the Solomon Islands and very depressing. We arrived on Friday to finish customs clearance and pick up our DHL mail delivery that Nancy had sent to the Yacht Club. After securing Onora we dropped the dinghy in ...

Honiara (/ ˌ h oʊ n i ˈ ɑːr ə /) is the capital and largest city of Solomon Islands, situated on the northwestern coast of Guadalcanal.As of 2021, it had a population of 92,344 people.The city is served by Honiara International Airport and the seaport of Point Cruz, and lies along the Kukum Highway.. The airport area to the east of Honiara was the site of a battle between the United ...

Why Indian OTAs Are Now Looking Towards Corporate Travel

Bulbul Dhawan , Skift

April 12th, 2024 at 8:47 AM EDT

India is a strong source market for business travel. To cater to this robust market, online travel companies in India are diversifying their offerings.

Bulbul Dhawan

The Skift India Newsletter is your go-to platform for all news related to travel, tourism, airlines, and hospitality in India.

Corporate travel in India is booming – spending surged nearly 25% in 2023. And online travel companies are ramping up their efforts to profit from it.  

Dubai-based business travel platform Tumodo announced the launch of its India services this week. Tumodo said it expects an 18% surge in the India market this year.

India accounts for almost 6% of business travel in Central Asia and the Pacific, the travel startup said, adding that the India market is expected to fully recover its pre-Covid business travel expenses by 2025 and exceed pre-Covid levels by 20% in 2027.

Earlier this year, Cleartrip, which has essentially catered to lesiure travelers, entered the corporate travel space with the launch of Out of Office .

“As businesses worldwide experience a notable resurgence, we observed an unprecedented spike in the demand for corporate travel,” said Cleatrip CEO Ayyappan R.

According to a report by Global Business Travel Association (GBTA) , India’s business travel spending is estimated to reach $38 billion in 2024, and is projected to make a full recovery to pre-Covid levels by 2025. Businesses are betting that in-person interactions are crucial for business goals and are, therefore, leading to recovery in corporate travel . 

The Corporate Travel Pivot

MakeMyTrip has only started to focus on corporate travel recently, but India’s largest online travel agency is looking to grow this business

Talking about its corporate travel platform, MyBiz, Rajesh Magow, co-founder and group CEO of MakeMyTrip, previously told Skift, “Pre-pandemic, a large part of our business used to be business-to-consumer, but during the pandemic we accelerated our efforts on acquiring new customers on small and medium enterprises as well as for large corporates.”

The platform now has over 55,000 active clients across sectors.

Last month, Yatra.com appointed Gaurav Luthra as Chief Business Officer – New Business Development. Luthra in his earlier role had been the managing director of corporate travel platform FCM Travel.

“He (Luthra) will lend his strategic leadership to drive the company’s corporate travel proposition focused on mid-market customers and will play an instrumental role,” the company said in a statment.

In its latest earnings call for the period ending December 31, Dhruv Shringi, co-founder and CEO of Yatra said, “We further fortified our market leadership in the corporate travel sector by signing 26 new corporate customer accounts in the December quarter with an annual billing potential of INR 2.2 billion ($27 million) underlining the capabilities of our corporate travel platform.”

A Technologically Sound Business

Magow told Skift a key reason why MakeMyTrip was not focused on corporate business earlier was the limited deployment of technology in the segment.

“We always felt there was less innovation in this space and we should wait for our opportunity , ” he added. 

Corporate travel demands are increasing, driving the requirement for enhanced technology. Businesses seek contemporary expense management solutions with user-friendly interfaces, mobile applications, and automated processes to streamline expense reporting and enhance the travel experience for employees.

In February, fintech firm Zaggle Prepaid Ocean Services tied up with travel platform EaseMyTrip to provide integrated travel and expense management solutions to its corporate clients, according to an exchange filing.

Skift India Report

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Tags: business travel , Business Travelers , cleartrip , corporate travel , corporate travel management , corporate travel software , Dhruv Shringi , easemytrip , future of business travel , india , india outbound , india travel , makemytrip , online travel , online travel agencies , online travel companies , Rajesh Magow , skift india report , tourism , Travel Trends , yatra

Photo credit: India’s business travel spending is estimated to reach $38 billion in 2024. Joshua Woroniecki / Pixabay