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Albania Itinerary: Complete 2-Week Road Trip

Welcome to the most unexpected destination in Europe : beautiful Albania! A diverse country that will take your breath away, from the beaches (similar to those in neighboring Greece ) to the mountains, which wouldn’t look out of place on a Swiss postcard. Combine this with the delicious food, Ottoman towns, and incredible hospitality of the locals, and Albania is set to top every traveler’s bucket list. Use this complete 2-week Albania itinerary to explore this remarkable destination.

The Ultimate Albania 2-Week Itinerary

Traveling in Albania is magical, as you discover a country home to the last wild river of Europe, incredible mountains, and white sandy beaches.

Also read: Best Things to do in Albania .

Despite this well-preserved nature, the country is developing fast, and the infrastructure continues to go from strength to strength. Because of this, the roads are good, so we recommend completing your Albania itinerary by car.

If you don’t have a car, it is possible to travel by bus, but it does take more time. Plus, you’ll have a lot more flexibility if you choose to do a 2-week Albanian road trip. 

Did you know? Surprisingly, 60% of the country is Muslim, but all religions live together in harmony. You’ll notice beautiful mosques and the sound of the call to prayer echoing out across the ancient towns and vistas.

Day 1: Tirana to Berat

On day 1, fly into the colorful capital city of Albania: Tirana . We recommend finding a morning or early afternoon flight, so you have time to collect your hire car and drive directly to Berat (2 hours). Don’t worry about missing out on the beautiful sights of Tirana , as you’ll come back to the city on your final day. 

How to get from Tirana to Berat

Rent a car from the airport and drive directly to Berat . The drive takes approximately 2 hours, and the roads are in good condition (with most of the journey on the highway). 

We recommend to rent a car in Albania through Sunny Cars with free cancellation and insurance included. Book your rental car here .

Buses in Albania are reliable and very cheap. The only downside is that your journey might take a little longer than by car.

From the capital city, buses to Berat are very frequent (run roughly every 30 mins) and cost 500 LEK (4.30 USD). The bus ride takes 2 hours and 15 minutes. 

Where to Stay in Berat

When you reach Berat, book yourself into a traditional guesthouse. We recommend staying in the neighborhood of Gorica as it’s more affordable and only just across the bridge from the town center.  See all your hotel options here .

Hotels in Berat 😴

Day 2: Berat  

On day 2, explore the extraordinary city of Berat , a place home to incredible Ottoman architecture. It’s known as the city of a thousand windows, and it’s easy to see why; beautiful window panes face downhill onto the River Osum.

Read: Things to do in Berat, Albania .

Unusually, two neighborhoods face each other across the water with bridges connecting them, so it’s fun to move between the areas, wandering the charming cobbled streets.

Make sure to also walk up to the impressive Byzantine Church and the castle ruins, which are left at the top of the hill—it’s the perfect place to go for views of the valley below, especially at sunset. 

Day 3: Berat to Gjirokaster

On Day 3, wake up and enjoy a typical Albanian breakfast of bread, butter, yogurt, fruit, and olives, before your 3-hour drive to Gjirokaster . This is a very scenic drive, so take it slow and make regular stops to get some photos. 

How to get from Berat to Gjirokaster

First, you need to drive to the city of Fier before continuing your route along the beautiful Drino River. Google Maps might suggest a shorter way via Komar, but this is a route only accessible for 4×4 cars. In total, the drive will take around 3 hours (longer if you’re taking regular breaks).

There is a direct bus to Gjirokaster from Berat , which takes approximately 3 hours. However, the bus makes many stops along the way, so be aware it could take a little longer. There are 3 buses daily, 2 of which leave at 2 PM (the last bus of the day).

Where to Stay in Gjirokaster

Stay centrally in Gjirokaster, within the old town which sits high on the hill with beautiful views. It’s definitely worth it, even with the walk! See all your hotel options in Gjirokaster .

Hotels in Gjirokaster 😴

Day 4: Gjirokaster

Gjirokaster is one of the most memorable towns on your Albania 2-week itinerary. This beautiful town is full of houses with white facades, complete with wooden balconies and stone roofs in the typical Ottoman style. There is also a magnificent fortress that sits high on the hill.

Because of its history, everything is carefully preserved, and it’s been awarded UNESCO World Heritage status. If you want to learn more about the town’s interesting past, there is a museum within the fortress. 

Read all about the things to do in Gjirokaster .

Spend your day in Gjirokaster wandering among the characteristic houses and browsing the cute shops selling carpets and ceramics. You can even visit inside the homes to see the interior of what a traditional Ottoman house would look like. The most beautiful thing of all, though, is the scenery; the town is surrounded by mountain ranges and towering ridges.

Day 5: Gjirokaster to Ksamil (via Syri i Kaltër/Blue Eye) 

On day 5 of your Albanian road trip, begin your journey to Ksamil , a beautiful coastal town on the ‘Albanian Riviera’. On your way, break up your trip with a stop at the Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër), a crystal clear emerald pool that is perfect for swimming.

It takes just 30 minutes to drive here from Gjirokaster and then a 15-minute walk from the parking spot. When you arrive, you’ll be met by the most gorgeous sight: beautiful blue and green colored water that comes fresh from a natural spring.

The water is numbingly cold but so refreshing, especially in the summer! It does say that you’re not allowed to swim, but plenty of people do so (there was a guard there patrolling, and he only asked people not to jump from the platform). We recommend arriving as early as possible in the morning to avoid the summer crowds. 

Entrance fee: 50 LEK (0.50 USD)

After your swim, dry off and head back to the car for the rest of your trip. Follow the road to Saranda, and continue on to Ksamil from there. From the Blue Eye, the journey takes approximately 1 hour.

Tip: Ksamil and Saranda are neighboring coastal towns and both popular choices on an Albania itinerary. However, Sarande is much more of a party town than Ksamil, so it depends on your preference.

How to get from Gjirokaster to Ksamil

The drive from Gjirokaster to Ksamil takes around 1 hour and 20 minutes. However, that doesn’t include time for your stop at the Blue Eye. Allow for 2 hours at the Blue Eye to relax, have a swim, and enjoy walking through nature. 

There are no direct buses running from Gjirokaster to Ksamil. Instead, you will need to take a bus to Saranda and, from there, take a taxi to Ksamil. Buses leave Gjirokaster every 20-30 minutes and take about 1 hour.

If you’re traveling by bus, you won’t be able to make a stop off at Syri I Kaltër (Blue Eye). However, tours run regularly from Gjirokaster and Saranda and include return transport.

Where to stay in Ksamil

Once you arrive in Ksamil, choose to stay close to the beaches, ideally within 10 to 15 minutes walk. See all your hotel options here .

Hotels in Ksamil 😴

Day 6: Ksamil

The beach paradise of Ksamil is a must-see on your Albania itinerary. Sitting on the coast of the Albanian Riviera, it’s home to incredible beaches, which aren’t dissimilar to the south of France (hence the name!). Turquoise ocean backs onto soft yellow sand that’s covered in a sea of multi-colored beach umbrellas—bliss!

Read about the things to do in Ksamil, Albania .

There are also 4 small islands on the coast which are perfect for exploring. Hire a kayak or a SUP and paddle out to explore the rocky outcrops, jumping off into the water to cool off at any opportunity. You can also do boat tours to some of the bigger islands and even take a ferry to Corfu, Greece !

By day, choose a private or public beach, and hire day beds from chic beach clubs. By night, do as the locals do and enjoy promenading along the seafront, stopping for a bite to eat in the warm evening air. 

Day 7: Butrint National Park

Day 7 is all about history as you embark on the next part of your Albanian road trip! Stay in Ksamil for another night, but venture away for a half-day trip to Butrint National Park (one of the most important historical sites in the whole country). Discover this remote national park, full of roman ruins and now a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site .

As you wander between the unique stone monuments, you’ll be shaded by many beautiful trees, and you’ll never be far from the clear turquoise water that sits nearby. Because of this, it’s doable to visit in the middle of the day (although we advise visiting in the morning for fewer crowds).

Read everything about Butrint National Park

Spend 1.5 to 3 hours in the park, finishing your walk at the beautiful castle where there is a great view.

Entry Fee: 700 LEK (6.10 USD)

How to get from Ksamil to Butrint National Park

Butrint National Park is only a maximum 15 minutes drive from Ksamil, so it’s straightforward to reach by car.

There are 3 small squares by the main road where you can catch a bus to Butrint National Park. You must request the bus as otherwise, it’ll just drive on. Because of this, it’s safer to get a taxi to give you more flexibility.

Organized Tour:

Organized tours to Butrint Park run from larger cities like Saranda and normally include other locations like the Blue Eye and Ksamil.

Day 8: Ksamil to Himarë

Wake up on day 8 of your Albania 2-week itinerary and head for the beautiful beach town of Himarë , another gem on the Albanian Riviera. The journey in total takes around 2 hours.

Read everything about Himare, Albania.

Castle Palermo (Optional Stop)

If you have time, make a stop at the incredible Castle Palermo. This mammoth, triangular-shaped fortress sits on top of a cliff on a peninsula overlooking the most beautiful blue ocean.

Also read: Historic Krujë Castle.

Park for free close by and wander towards the castle, looking out over the dazzling sea and beautiful olive groves. Once you’re in the castle, you can learn more about its history (it was built for an Ottoman governor as his home and defense fortress). You can even walk upstairs to the rooftop for fantastic views!

If you have time, there is also a beach underneath the castle where you can relax and swim for a few hours.

Entry Fee: ​​300 Lek (2.5 EUR or 3 USD)

How to get from Ksamil to Himarë

By car is the best way to get to Himarë , particularly if you want the flexibility to make a stop at Palermo Castle. The journey in total between Ksamil and Himarë is just under 2 hours. The journey time is more or less the same if you make a stop at Castle Palermo (it’s 1.5 hours to the castle and 25 minutes from there to Himarë). 

There are no buses from Ksamil to Himarë. You must travel by taxi or book a private transfer .

Where to Stay in Himarë

Once you’re in Himarë, you have two bays to choose from. One has many hotels and restaurants, and the other is quieter as it’s still in development. Wherever you choose, you’ll find both smaller guesthouses and beautiful luxury hotels.

Hotels in Himare 😴

Ideally, stay for 1 or 2 nights, choosing accommodation close to the beach. See all your hotel options in Himarë .

Tip: Camping is also possible in Albania and is the perfect way to explore the country’s dramatic landscapes and diverse nature.

Day 9: Himarë  

Himarë is a beautiful beach destination north of Ksamil and Butrint National Park . The advantage of visiting this coastal town is that it’s far less crowded than Saranda and Ksamil, and it’s considerably cheaper than the nearby town of Dhermi.

It is home to wide sweeping bays with the most perfectly calm, clear ocean, and it’s not as busy, so you won’t find the beaches packed with parasols and beds. 

Read: Best Things to do in Himare .

Spend the Afternoon in Dhermi

However, although we recommend basing yourself in Himarë on your Albania 2-week itinerary, you should definitely try and make a visit to the nearby town of Dhermi. Not only is it close to some of the most fantastic beaches, but it’s an authentic hillside village in Albania.

Walk through its cobblestone streets with pretty houses and churches, stopping to take photos of the beautiful coastal views. It’s a great place to visit in the afternoon or evening for sunset. 

Day 10: Himarë to Kruje

One of the most beautiful drives on your Albanian road trip is the one from Himarë to Kruje . Although it’s a long drive (4-5 hours), it moves across stunning landscapes, especially the first 1.5 hours on the road to Vlore—which is absolutely breathtaking.

As you go, you’ll pass through the luscious Llogara National Park, riding along the high coastal road, which provides you with epic views of the cliffs, beaches, and Adriatic sea. Vlore itself is very green and luscious and, surprisingly, is famous for being home to the spotted deer. 

Kruje Castle and Old Town

When you finally arrive in Krujë , you’ll be blown away by this beautiful medieval town—home to one of the most colorful bazaars we’ve ever seen. Gorgeous ruby red textiles hang from the market stalls, and it’s lovely to walk around and buy souvenirs, antiques, and handmade carpets. The afternoon is the perfect amount of time to explore the old town and bazaar.

Read all about Krujë Castle and the Historic village .

Alternative Stop: Shkod er

Alternatively, you can spend the night at Shkoder, which is closer to Theth (the next stop on your Albania itinerary). This is a bigger city with beautiful old town pedestrian streets and loads of great food and drink options. Especially at the weekends, this city is vibrant and lively and an enjoyable place to hang out.

We recommend spending time in the Gjuhadol neighborhood, where you’ll find the nicest streets.  Find a hotel in Shkoder .

Tip: if you’re traveling in Albania by public transport, you’ll need to spend the night in Shkoder to take an arranged transfer to Theth the following day. If you have a car, we recommend skipping Shkoder and arriving at Theth directly from Kruje .

Where to Stay in Kruje

Stay as close as you can to the old town and bazaar, particularly as you’re only in Kruje for the afternoon/evening.  Here are all your hotel options in Kruje .

Hotels in Kruje 😴

How to get from Himarë to Kruje

Traveling by car from Himarë to Kruje is the easiest option and takes between 4-5 hours. 

There are no direct buses from Himarë to Kruje. Instead, you’ll need to take a bus to Vorë or back to Tirana and take the bus from these destinations. In total (including changing bus), both these journeys will take you approximately 5-6 hours.

Please note: If you want to travel on to Theth the next day, you’ll need to stay the night in Shkoder because that’s the only town where transfers leave for Theth (Albania’s answer to the Alps).

Day 11: Kruje to Theth

If you haven’t already explored Kruje’s Bazaar (one of the oldest markets in Albania), then spend the morning here taking in all the sights and senses of this beautiful area. (Just note that most shops opens at 10 AM) There is also a castle in Kruje to explore if you have time. 

After breakfast and a morning exploring Kruje, start on one of the most beautiful journeys of your Albanian road trip: the drive to Theth . Along the way, you’ll share the winding roads with goats, cows, and pigs and stop off at beautiful viewpoints with panoramic views of the mountains; you’re now arriving in Albania’s version of the Swiss Alps! 

Theth Village

Spend your afternoon in beautiful Theth village , a cute town which essentially consists of one long street bordering the river. It’s full of sweet houses, guesthouses, and great campsites (with good facilities). 

Read everything about the mountain village Theth in Albania .

People come to Theth to camp and hike, so it’s popular in summer with tourists. However, you’ll notice that authentic local life continues, with the farmers still herding their sheep and horses along the roads.

Witnessing this with the majestic mountain peaks in the background is truly like something from a movie. You’ll spend a few days here, enjoying the town, and hiking famous trails like the Peje Mountain Pass or the Valbona Peak. 

Tip: One of the most beautiful parts of Theth is the idyllic church you can find on the outskirts of town, surrounded by mountain peaks and meadows full of flowers. It’s an absolute must-visit and one of the best places to visit in Albania!

Where to Stay in Theth

Look for a hotel on the main street of Theth (not on the hill), so you can be closer to the center of the village for your afternoon stroll.  See all your hotel options .

Hotels in Theth 😴

How to get from Kruje to Theth

The journey from Kruje to Theth takes around 3.5 hours. Along the way, you can stop at Shkoder if you’d like a break; there are lots of beautiful things to see here, including Lake Shkoder, which forms a natural border between Albania and Montenegro.

As Theth is very remote, there are no buses from Kruje to Theth. You’ll need to get to Shkoder and arrange a transfer or organized tour from there to Theth. 

Day 12: Hike to Valbona Peak, Theth

Day 12 is your chance to explore the unbelievable nature that Albania has to offer. Pack a backpack and prepare to do the most beautiful hike from Theth to Valbona peak and back.

Along the way, you’ll pass through forests, gorgeous grasslands that look across onto the mountain peaks, bubbling brooks and streams, and meadows full of flowers and boulders. You could really feel as if you were in the Alps, with dramatic scenery all around and only birds, crickets, and butterflies to keep you company along the way. 

How long does the hike take? 

Start at 8 AM, and you should return to Theth around 3-4 PM. It takes around 7 hours to hike the trail (15 km in total), and it’s doable but definitely a challenge! Please be aware that on some parts of the trail, there are (very) steep gravel paths, so make sure you’re wearing proper hiking shoes. 

Tip: Traveling to Theth by public transport? You can catch a ferry or shared van back to Shkoder after your hike (the journey is approx 2 hours).

Day 13: Theth to Tirana

On your penultimate day in Albania, it’s time to head back to the buzzing capital: Tirana (a must-see on your 2-week Albania itinerary). Have breakfast and make an early start to drive back to Tirana so you can spend the afternoon in the city. 

Spend the Afternoon in Tirana

Once you’ve checked into your hotel, make the most of the city’s cultural hotspots, enjoying all the museums, art galleries, and interesting restaurants. You’ll find the National Museum of History here, which is a plot of former underground bunkers now turned into an exhibit on Albania’s communist history.

Entry Fee: 400 LEK (3.50 USD)

Aside from seeing the city’s museums, it’s lovely to just walk around for a few hours, witnessing the interesting architecture of Tirana —a reflection of its historical and cultural heritage.

You’ll find a mix of older and newer buildings, some in a more Mediterranean European style and some in an urban fascist style. Best of all, it’s earned a reputation for its colorful buildings due to the major being an artist and painting the buildings. These colored buildings are spread across the city, but two of the must-sees are:

• Ministry of Tourism and Environment
• Ministry of Agriculture

How to get from Theth to Tirana

The journey from Theth to Tirana takes 3.5 hours. You don’t need a 4×4 as the road to Theth is now paved and safe to drive on.

It’s possible to take a bus from Theth to Tirana. You’ll need to first take a shared shuttle bus to Shkoder (or taxi). From there, there are buses running every 30 minutes to Tirana. The journey takes 2 hours and costs 400 LEK (3.60 USD), so it’s very cheap.

Where to Stay in Tirana

The Blloku neighborhood is the most colorful and trendy of all and a great place to stay in Tirana. Alternatively, anywhere close to the city center is good. See all your hotel options in Tirana .

Hotels in Tirana 😴

Day 14: Drive to Tirana Airport (Departure)

Day 14 is the final day of your beautiful 2-week Albania itinerary, and time to pack your bags and leave with some incredible memories of this underrated country in Europe!

If you have a hire car, drive the 30 minutes to the airport and drop your rental car there before you fly. Alternatively, take the airport shuttle bus, which leaves the city center regularly (from Skanderbeg Square). A ticket costs 300 LEKE (2.70 USD) and can be purchased on the bus.

How to Visit Albania in 2 Weeks

Albania is one of the most unexpected treasures, home to everything from epic mountains and natural spring pools to beaches that would rival some of the best in Europe. This 2-week Albania itinerary provides you with various activities, hotel options, and transportation. 

Getting to Albania

The main airport in Albania is Tirana, and international flights arrive here from all around the world. Most of the public transport leaves from the capital city too, and you can collect your car hire there.

Getting Around on Your Albania 2-Week Itinerary

The easiest way to get around Albania is definitely by car. In the past, it had a reputation for bad roads. However, these days, most roads are safe and paved (especially when sticking to the highways). Even in the mountainous region of Theth, the roads are newly paved, so you can use a normal rental car. The only thing to be wary of on the roads is other drivers (Albanian drivers have a bit of a bad reputation, although we didn’t experience this ourselves). Use Waze or Google Maps as your navigation app.

Getting around by bus in Albania is a little trickier, as many destinations don’t have direct bus connections. Because of this, you may have to make multiple changes, and the journeys can be long. The upside, though, is that tickets are very cheap! 

Organized Tour

Alternatively, base yourself in bigger cities like Tirana and Saranda and use those as jumping-off points to explore other areas by organized tour.

Our Favorite Accommodations in Albania

There are many fantastic accommodations in Albania, from charming guesthouses and B&Bs to more luxury beachside hotels. There is even the option to camp! Below are our favorite places to stay for each destination on this 2-week Albania itinerary:

• Berat: Hotel Mangalemi , Tradita e Beratit Hotel
• Gjirokaster: SS Kekezi , Argjiro Traditional , Hotel Argjiro
• Ksamil: Ionian Hotel , Summer Point Hotel , Hotel Meta
• Himarë: Scala Bungalows , Filoxenia Holiday , Guest House Solive
• Kruje: Mervin Hotel , Hotel Panorama
• Shkoder: Çoçja Boutique Hotel , Atelier Boutique Hotel
• Theth: Guesthouse Marashi , Bujtina Miquesia Hotel , Gurra Family Guesthouse
• Tirana: Hotel Theatro , Hotel Boutique Vila , Crown Boutique Hotel

Food in Albania

Albania has a mix of history, cultures, and religions, all coming together in one big melting pot. This makes for some delicious cuisine, whether it’s traditional Albanian dishes, Italian, or Middle Eastern.

You can enjoy all sorts of delicacies, from stuffed peppers and eggplants to olives and baked local cheeses. If you’re brave enough, you can also try Raki, the traditional alcoholic beverage in Albania.

Fun Fact: In Albania, the head gesture for ‘yes’ and ‘no’ is the opposite of most countries (something you might need to know when you’re asked to try Raki!).

Albania Budget

Albania is super cheap; you can get a huge meal for 2 people (with salad and 2 main courses) for just 10 EUR (10.15 USD). You can also stay in incredible hotels for 50 EUR (51 USD) per night, although you can find good hotels for as little as 15 EUR (15.20 USD).

Costs of Traveling in Albania

Travel on a budget in Albania, from $80 − $130 USD weekly per person, mid-range $330 − $920 USD, and high-end from $920 − $1180 USD. However, costs depend on factors like accommodation, transportation, and activities. We did not include flights. Check flight prices here

• Hotels: $35 − $70 USD Check available hotels
• Hostels: $5 − $15 USD Check available hostels
• Car Rental: $50 − $75 USD Book a rental car
• Food: $3 − $8 USD
• Activities: $0 − $7 USD See tickets & tours
• Sim: $1 − $3 USD Get an eSIM or SIM here
• Travel Insurance: $2 − $6 USD Get Travel Insurance

Best Time to Visit Albania

Albania has very hot summers and mild winters (although you’ll find lots of snow in the mountainous regions). In the summer, locals and tourists head for the beach, and it can get very busy. Because of this, we recommend visiting in the shoulder seasons: May/June or September. This is the perfect time to enjoy warm weather, sunny days, and the beaches of the Albanian Riviera without the crowds. It also has slightly cooler temperatures, which are perfect for hiking in the mountains.  

Is Albania Safe?

There is some dispute about whether Albania is safe, and its communist history has slightly tarnished its reputation. However, in our personal experience, it’s very safe. The locals are warm, friendly people who are always eager to help, and the towns feel very safe and inviting. We walked around with our phones and cameras the entire time, zero issues! Albania truly has our hearts.

Travel Insurance Don't forget a travel insurance for your Albania trip! Heymondo covers medical emergencies, theft, delays, cancellations, lost luggage, and more, with 24/7 worldwide assistance and medical chat. As a Salt in our Hair reader, we've got you 5% off! Check Heymondo here

We’ve met a lot of solo (female) travelers who had the best time. Yes, they got some heads turning but never experienced anything negative. Obviously, take care of yourself and stay inside the main tourist areas. Here are our tips on how to travel safely .

What to wear in Albania?

Even though over 60% of Albania is Muslim, there are no specific guidelines on what to wear; You’ll see a huge mix of different clothing styles, and especially the younger Albanians dress in a very western style. When entering a religious site, always wear a cover-up. However, at most places they really allow everyone. One Albanian said to us that due to the country’s history, Albanians are now one big family, all living together no matter what their religion is. That’s how the world should be if you’d ask us!

By purchasing through our links, you support us at no additional cost. Thank you for your support. ♥️

• Find Hotels via Booking.com
• Find a Rental Car via Sunny Cars
• Find Flights to Albania via Skyscanner
• Get a Travel Insurance via Heymondo
• Book Tours & Attractions via GetYourGuide
• Book a Bus/Train/Transfer via 12Go

Theth: Most Beautiful Mountain Village in Albania

Ksamil, albania: things to do in 2024, renting a car in albania in 2024: all you need to know.

Looking for more travel information? Plan a chat with us for personalised travel advice or get an answer from the Salt in our Hair Travel Community on Facebook.

If you had two extra days to spend, where would you choose to stay a bit longer? I’m travelling with a kid so want to take some extra days of rest in between.

Probably Theth or Gjirokaster! 🤗

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Home > Theth To Valbona Hike In The Albanian Alps

Theth To Valbona Hike In The Albanian Alps

Written by our local expert Bram

Bram was born and raised in Belgium and has traveled the Balkans & beyond. He is a professional freelance travel writer and photographer specializing in outdoor travel with an emphasis on national parks, nature, and wildlife.

One of the greatest and most popular hikes in Albania, the epic Theth to Valbona hike runs through the spectacular Albanian Alps.

The Theth to Valbona Hike in the Albanian Alps is a day hike worthy of a spot on any hiker’s bucket list . Connecting two spectacular national parks in Albania —Theth and Valbona Valley National Parks—it winds its way over mountain passes, across beautiful alpine meadows, and underneath towering peaks.

As far as hiking in Albania and the Balkans goes, this village-to-village trail is the cream of the crop. In addition to exploring the country’s unique towns, such as Shkoder, Tirana , and Saranda in the south, an adventure in the ominous-sounding Accursed Mountains rounds off the ultimate Albania travel experience. Afterward, you can relax and rest up at one of Albania’s glorious beaches .

In this post, you’ll find everything you need to know about hiking the Theth to Valbona trail, including how to get there, where to stay, a recommended itinerary, and other tips for hiking in the Albanian Alps.

Skip Ahead To My Advice Here!

Hiking The Theth-Valbona Trail: An Overview

Historically a mule trail through the Albanian mountains, a wild landscape of jagged summits, deep valleys, and forested slopes, the route links two villages—Theth and Valbona—which are the gateways to their respective national parks .

You can hike this one-way trail in either direction, from Theth to Valbona or from Valbona to Theth. In this post, we’ll outline the journey from Theth to Valbona. (To hike in the other direction, reverse the route.)

This is one of the most spectacular day hikes in the Balkans , a popular trek that requires a bit of planning and preparation. Even though it’s “just” a day hike, that doesn’t mean the whole journey is a day trip , too. The Theth-Valbona hike is actually a part—and the highlight—of a multi-day trip around the Albanian Alps.

Theth is a relatively remote mountain village, located deep in northern Albania’s mountains, so you’ll have to take a bus there. The most common Theth to Valbona hike itinerary (see below) is a loop that involves buses, the hike itself, and a boat ride.

Since it’s a one-way journey, we don’t recommend using a rental car to do this—in this rare case, public transportation offers much more freedom and less hassle.

When you get to Theth, there are a couple of other day hikes in the area you can (and should!) do. This is why we recommend spending at least two days in the village before starting your Theth to Valbona hike.

In Theth, definitely make an effort to hike up to Denelle and back and do the day hike to the famous Blue Eye . Both are amazing hikes in Albania , too, and some you won’t want to miss when you’re in the area. Another point of interest is the Grunas Waterfall.

Theth To Valbona Hike

When you’re done exploring the greater Theth area, it’s time to hit the Theth to Valbona trail. The trailhead is pointed out clearly in the center of Theth, and you shouldn’t have any trouble locating it.

The first section of the trail is a gradual and strenuous climb toward Valbona Pass, the trail’s highest point. This part will take about three hours, but there are plenty of places to take a break , including viewpoints and even two cafés with water, coffee, and food.

Once you reach Valbona Pass, don’t forget to look back to the way you came. The views from the pass are sensational, but you can also follow a short gravel path to the right, which leads to the true summit and offers even better views. Spend some time enjoying the panorama—this is one of the most incredible mountain views in the Balkans!

The trail leads back downhill from the pass, again at a gradual—and gentler—level. After less than an hour, you’ll come across a third café, another excellent stopping point where you can fill up your water bottle .

The last part is relatively easy and along a flat trail and riverbed. You’ve finished the Theth to Valbona hike when you arrive at a paved road in the town of Valbona.

From the point where the trail hits the road, you might have to walk a couple more kilometers along that road to reach your accommodation. This is another reason why you should put some thought into your Theth-Valbona hike beforehand.

Choosing your accommodation carefully could prevent you from having to walk more after finishing the actual hike. See below for recommended Valbona accommodation options.

The Valbona Valley is a fantastic place to wind down after your long trek through the Albanian Alps. Bisected by a wide-banked river, this is an oasis of peace, quiet and stunning scenery. Spend the night in town before making your way back south.

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Our recommended 4-day theth to valbona hike itinerary.

Like we said above, while the Theth to Valbona hike is “only” a day hike, the entire trip takes much longer. We recommend allocating four days to this Albanian Alps excursion to make the most of the journey and not skip major highlights.

• Day 1: Travel from Shkodra to Theth + hike to Denelle / overnight in Theth
• Day 2: Hike to the Blue Eye of Theth (possibly including the Grunas Waterfall) / overnight in Theth
• Day 3: Theth to Valbona hike/overnight in Valbona
• Day 4: Travel from Valbona to Shkodra

Theth To Valbona Hike FAQ

What is the best time to hike from theth to valbona.

In winter , the Accursed Mountains are covered with a thick blanket of snow, making virtually all mountain travel either a challenge or impossible. The optimal period to do the Theth to Valbona hike is from May through September .

The trail is completely open from late spring to early fall, while the weather is at its kindest toward hikers. Note, however, that even in summer, these rugged mountains see occasional heavy rainfall and even thunderstorms. It’s smart to check the weather forecast before you start this trip.

How Long Is The Theth-Valbona Hike?

The Theth to Valbona trail is about 17 kilometers long . Most people complete the hike from Theth to Valbona in 7-8 hours, including stops at the cafés and regular breaks to enjoy the breathtaking landscapes. It’s the perfect day hike in the Albanian Alps.

What To Pack For a Theth To Valbona Hiking Trip?

Because your Theth to Valbona hiking trip will take at least four days, you should think about what you need and don’t need . Leave everything that’s not 100% necessary at your accommodation in Shkoder; take only what’s essential for hiking in the Albanian Alps .

Some absolute necessities include the following:

• Sturdy hiking boots
• Insulating rain jacket
• Sunglasses, sunscreen, and a hat
• Reusable water bottle
• Only essential toiletries (guesthouses will have shampoo and soap)
• Cash (see below)
• Extra underwear and socks
• Snacks and lunch materials (see below)

How Can I Travel To/From Theth?

Although Theth is a remote mountain village, getting there from Shkoder is surprisingly convenient. If you’re wondering how to get from Shkoder to Theth, the answer almost couldn’t be simpler.

Almost all guesthouses and hostels in Shkoder provide transportation from Shkoder to Theth in Albania . If you’d like them to arrange your transfer, see them at the reception the night before, and you’ll have your seat in no time.

You’ll typically get picked up between 7.15, and 7.30 am. The Shkoder-Theth bus or van trip on the adventurous Theth Albania road , the only road to Theth, takes about 3 hours. We do recommend double-checking the Shkoder to Theth bus timetable at your accommodation the night before your departure.

How Can I Travel To/From Valbona?

After hiking the Theth-Valbona trail, the trip back from Valbona to Shkoder is via beautiful Komani Lake . From your accommodation in Valbona, it’s a 1.5-hour drive to Komani Lake, which can, again, be arranged by your accommodation.

The bus will drop you off right at the ferry port in Fierze. The ferry ride across the lake is gorgeous, so make sure to get outside and enjoy the scenery. This part takes approximately 2 hours.

At the port of Koman, several buses will take you straight back to Shkoder. This 2-hour drive will put you back at your Shkoder accommodation in the late afternoon.

Book your bus & ferry tickets here.

Again, you can—and should—book your transportation from Valbona to Shkoder the night before. You can also book your bus and ferry tickets yourself weeks in advance for more peace of mind.

Accommodation In Theth

Theth is home to various guesthouses, comfortable places to get a great night’s sleep and enjoy tasty belly-filling dinners after a long day of hiking in Albania . Here are some top-rated options:

• Guesthouse Gjin Thana
• Gurra Family Guesthouse
• Bujtina Berishta Theth

Accommodation In Valbona

Valbona, too, has its fair share of guesthouse and hotel options. It’s crucial here, however, to find accommodation close to the end of the trail to avoid having to walk all the way across town after your hike. These are our suggestions:

• Hotel Margjeka
• Guesthouse Jezerca
• Guesthouse Lazer Cardaku

Find affordable hotel deals here. 

Some more theth-valbona hiking tips and info.

You’ll find plenty of water in the towns of Theth and Valbona, as well as several cafés on the Theth-Valbona trail. Take a water bottle, fill it up at those locations, and you’ll be just fine.

There are no ATMs in either Theth or Valbona, so it’s essential to withdraw enough cash before leaving Shkodra to cover expenses like accommodation, food, drinks, transportation…

While you can do the there-and-back day hikes from Theth with just a daypack (and leave the bulk of your stuff at your accommodation), the actual Theth to Valbona hike is a one-way journey.

Remember that you’ll need to take your full backpack on this hike, so it’s recommended not to bring too much. A great option is leaving the things you don’t need at your accommodation in Shkoder for the days you’re gone.

Sun protection

In summer, hiking in Albania probably involves hiking in bright sunshine (although some rain showers are always possible, too). Don’t forget to slop on a sunscreen layer and wear a hat on sunny days to avoid getting a nasty sunburn. Clear skies combined with the high elevation can cause you to get sunburned faster. Protect yourself!

There aren’t many places you can stock up on food in Theth, so you’re encouraged to buy most of what you’ll need in Shkoder. This includes hiking snacks like granola bars, nuts, and fruits and some easy lunch materials such as bread, peanut butter, jams, and the like.

This is a good idea because you don’t want to spend your time in Theth walking around to find a store—remember you won’t have any transportation but your own feet there.

On the Theth-Valbona trail, you can also grab some food at the cafés on the way, which are super-convenient stopping points. They also have a selection of beverages. However, bring enough food to sustain you throughout the entire Theth to Valbona hike since there’s no guarantee the cafés will actually be open when you’re there.

As far as dinner goes, the best guesthouses in Theth and Valbona serve hearty and sizable meals to refuel after those days hiking in the Albanian Mountains.

• 21 Ideas On Where To Go In Albania
• Things To Do, Eat, And More Along The Albanian Riviera
• The Must-See Sights In Albania With Kids
• Guide To Albania’s National Parks
• Things To Do In Albania
• Explore The City Of Tirana, Albania
• Hotels Along The Albanian Riviera
• Things To Do In Saranda
• Our Top Picks For Albania Accommodation

Comments (9)

Beware that Theth and Valbona have become the most frequented mountain tourism destinations in the region. With 70.000 and 120.000 visitors per year overtourism is on the verge of doing more harm than good. While this may not apply to a Corona year, the dark sides of tourism became more visible than ever in 2019. Reverse back to 2005 and Theth received the first 300 visitors, four guesthouses offered a room or two with beds, an outhouse and improvised shower to curious guests. Today almost every house of the village has a guesthouse sign and many have capacity for over 50 people. Power and water consumption as well as the production of greywater and trash have risen exponentially. The honor of hosting a guest has become a daily routine, Albanian hospitality is slowly turning into a regular commercial transaction as the few visitors that made it there have grown into regular weekend invasions. It’s time to look beyond promoting two villages in a country that is full of hiking opportunities.

Besides Theth and Valbona the Albanian Alps feature the Kelmend Region (Vermosh, Lepushe, Nikc, Selce…), Nikaj Mertur (Curraj i Eperm, Vrane…) and Gjakova Highlands (Cerem, Doberdol, Sylbice…). Consider the Peaks of the Balkans Trail or leave the beaten path beyond to explore the High Scardus Trail (mainly area near Peshkopi) on the Eastern border with Northern Macedonia. In spring and autumn the Southern Highlands offer multi-day treks around Permet and Zagoria Valley, the coastal backcountry’s “Mysterious South”, namely the Kurvelesh Region with Shushica Valley (Terbac, Vranisht, Kallarat, Kuc…) and Nivice and Progonat Canyons but also the Ceraunian Coastal Mountains encompassing the Llogara National Park and a network of paths all along the Albanian Riviera.

I’m one of the co-founders of Zbulo! Discover Albania, we’re offering active adventures across the country and beyond. Our team helped create the Peaks of the Balkans and High Scardus Trail linking the most attractive regions of Albania, Kosovo, Northern Macedonia and Montenegro but also including previously unknown locations to spread visitors more equally across the region. We have marked many a trail and worked with publishers like English Cicerone and German Rother to produce hiking guides that make it easier for individuals to travel the country. Please consider the many other beautiful and amazing destinations that are welcoming visitors with true Albanian hospitality.

Hi, thanks for such a detailed explanation. My husband and I are planning to do this hike at the end of September with our dog (golden retriever), so I would like to ask you whether the transport (4×4, ferry, minibus) is pet-friendly?

Yes they are! Beware of the stray dogs in Albania.

Hi! Can we drive from Shroder to Theth? Read that the roads may not be suitable for a normal car but just wondering if the conditions may be better now for a mini.

They made proper road last year (2021) and you can travel there by all cars.

Hi! Can the Theth To Valbona Hike In The Albanian Alps be made in late November? Or too snowy and cold. Want to see the sites but not be miserably wind blown and cold. Thanks!

Great article. I’ve visited your website for over a year. We visited the coast last year and lived it. We’re thinking of flying into Tirana ans taking this trip to Theth. Is it better to organize a tour? Which includes transport? What kind of foods can we get in Skoder? I’m worried we may not be able to find meat. Or peanut butter in the town. How busy is it during August or September? Thank you!

Hi, We are planning to visit Theth this May (First week) will there be snow fall or rain? Because I want to experiance nice green weather :)

Hi, I am planning a trip to Theth-Valbona. I wonder if there is any “Tour-Guide” that helps us to see around and be more informative while making some acquaintances with new strangers. Also we are not that young. Thank you for your writings. Regards, Alexander

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The 9 best places to visit in Albania

Nov 18, 2023 • 7 min read

A hike to the Theth Waterfall can be combined with the trail to the Blue Eye © Ben Pipe Photography / Getty Images

Albania is slowly becoming the jewel of the Balkans due to its sparkling crystal waters, impressive mountains and affordability for all types of travelers. Come with an open mind and a rough plan, and be ready to be submerged in a rich culture like no other in Europe.

If you’re planning a trip to this magnificent destination and are looking for the most beautiful places to visit but have no idea where to go in Albania , we’ve got you covered.   

1. The village of Theth

Best place for hiking and adventure lovers

Theth might just be the most peaceful place to visit in Albania. This small village nestled in between the Albanian Alps is perfect if you’re looking for the best hiking in the country and dramatic landscapes to enjoy.

There are two hikes you must do while visiting Theth . The first is the hike to the Blue Eye , which leads you through a forest, over rivers and finally to a vibrant blue natural spring. This hike is easy to moderate and perfect if you’re not an experienced hiker.

The second is one of the most popular in the country and one of the most beautiful: the Theth to Valbona  hike. This trail starts from the top of Theth village, near Guest House Gjelaj, and it leads you through the Albanian Alps to breathtaking views at the top. It’s not for the faint-hearted, as it will take roughly six to eight hours to complete – but you will be glad you did it!  

Planning tip: Make sure you bring cash with you, as ATMs can be hard to come by, and almost everything will need to be paid for in cash.

Prettiest place in Albania

When you visit Korce, make sure to stroll through the Pazari i Vjeter , which is the old bazaar of the city. Here, you can admire the bazaar’s 13th-century style in the form of old cobbled streets and Ottoman-style architecture.  

When you visit this area, be sure to pop into The Kooperativa, a communist-themed cafe that gives you a glimpse of Albania’s communist history from 1944 until 1991. 

Try the traditional alcoholic drink called raki, made from distilled grapes and very popular in Albania. You might even catch someone having a glass of raki with their morning espresso!

3. Gjirokastra

Best city for Albanian traditions

Known as the city of stone, Gjirokastra is a UNESCO city in the south of Albania. It was the birthplace of the former communist dictator, Enver Hoxha. 

One of the best things to do here, apart from walking the bazaar and visiting the castle of Gjirokastra, is to wander around  Zekat e House .  This traditional family home was built between 1811-1812 and is a beautiful example of some of the most fascinating Albanian home and marriage traditions. When you visit, one of the family members will show you around and explain the different rooms and their purposes.

If you love wine and want a foodie experience, then you need to take a trip to Te Fucite  (The Barrels). This family restaurant and winery specializing in smooth handmade wine offers platters of local cuisine for you to try while overlooking their vineyard and the surrounding mountains.

Planning tip: Try the dish called pasha qofte , which is essentially a cream soup made from milk with small meatballs inside. It’s a delicious dish you can only find in Gjirokastër.

Best place to go for beaches  

If you’re looking for a destination where you can lay about, get a sun tan and enjoy a dip in the sea, then you need to visit Dhermi . It’s one of the pearls of the Albanian Riviera and home to many summer music festivals, including the Kala festival and ION festival .

With idyllic beaches, trendy beach bars and views that might make you never want to leave, Dhermi is a hotspot for younger generations looking for the hottest parties and the best vibes of the summer. 

Try Restaurant Luciano for delicious food overlooking the water, or head to Alevra restaurant and beach bar to try some mouthwatering seafood with a twist.

Planning tip: Make sure you book well in advance if you’re visiting in July and August, as hotels can be booked out due to the festivals mentioned above.

5. P ë rmet

Best for white-water rafting and mountain biking

On a bend in the fast-flowing turquoise Vjosa river, about 32km (20 miles) from Greece where the river springs, is the hub town of Përmet. From here you can organize adventure activities from white-water rafting to camping, hiking and mountain bike riding in the region. Once an Ottoman-era commercial center, Përmet is "one of the greenest and cleanest parts of the country" today. The Vjosa River was recently designated as a wild river national park , Europe's first. 

Detour :  A 29km (18-mile) taxi or bus ride away is the Bënjë thermal baths next to an Ottoman-era bridge on the Lengarica River (a tributary of the Vjosa). In summer, you can pick up supplies from small vendors here; in the off-season, bring your own food and drinks. 

Best northern city in Albania

The city of Shkodra  is a breath of fresh air and is unlike any other city in Albania. When you arrive, you’ll notice most of the population peddling around the city by bike. While you’re there, do as the locals do and hire a bicycle for the day. Then head down to Liqeni i Shkodrës to enjoy the beautiful lake views. 

While you’re in the area, make sure you visit Rozafa Castle and ask one of the guides about the legend of Rozafa. Also, when you reach the top, you’ll experience a magnificent 360-degree view.

Planning tip: If you would like to do the Theth to Valbona hike and don’t fancy taking your luggage with you, a popular option is to leave your bags in Shkodra at your accommodation. Shkodra is a great city to base yourself in, as transfers will leave from there to take you to either Theth or Valbona.

Most peaceful village in Albania

Lin is a quiet village positioned on Lake Ohrid, which means there is excellent fishing here. If you’re looking for a lake getaway and craving silence and tranquility, this is a perfect choice. 

One of the best things to do is walk to the archaeological site on the hilltop, where you’ll get to see the well-preserved mosaics of a Paleo-Christian church built in the 6th century. If you visit in the summertime, the mosaics will be uncovered, and there should be a guide who can tell you all about their history.

You also get an incredible view from the top of Lin and can see North Macedonia as you look over Lake Ohrid.

Most visited place in Albania during summer

Saranda is the southern gateway to the Albanian Riviera and one of the best cities to visit, not least because it’s close to one of the region's best beaches, Ksamil Beach. 

Get a hotel in Saranda, where you’ll be close to some of the best restaurants in Albania and the city’s buzzing nightlife. Then explore the beaches of Saranda and Ksamil during the day.

One of the best things to do from Saranda is to hop on one of the day trip boat tours that leave from the boulevard and go to the beaches of Kakome and Krorez. Tickets start from €30.

Planning tip: The best time to visit Saranda is in May, June or September when the crowds are not crazy but the beach bars and restaurants are open. As this is a summer destination, most businesses close during the off-season.

9. Porto Palermo

Most underrated Albania Riviera destination

The triangle-shaped castle is a great reason to stop at Porto Palermo castle, as are the beautiful, unspoiled and peaceful beaches you'll find here – making for an excellent camping spot along the Albanian Riviera coast. 

You can also rent a kayak and paddle along the beaches and quiet bays. As you kayak, you’ll see the old military submarine bunker situated on the hill not far from the main beaches of Porto Palermo. 

Porto Palermo is filled with history and spectacular swimming bays and has a peaceful positioning along the Riviera.

This article was first published October 2022 and updated November 2023

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Valbona Theth Hike in Albanian Alps: A Step-by-Step Guide

Here is everything you need to know to be well-prepared for the Valbona Theth hike in Albanian Alps.

The Valbona (Valbone) to Theth (Thethi) hiking trail is located in the Accursed (Prokletije) mountains, Northern Albania. It is a spectacular one-way day trek between two idyllic mountain villages.

Originally an old mule route, the trail winds through the heart of Valbona Valley and Theth National parks. Halfway it crosses over the epic Valbona Pass, offering the most stunning vistas of the Albanian Alps. Accursed Mountains’ landscapes of snow-covered peaks and lush valleys are shared between Albania , Kosovo, and Montenegro .

Trekking over the legendary Valbona Pass in Accursed Mountains deserves to be at the top of your must-do things list in Albania. In fact, hiking from Valbona to Theth along with the Komani Lake ferry ride were the two activities that inspired me to visit this less-explored Balkan country.

Once I started planning for the hike, I realized that it is not as straightforward as I would expect the one-day trek to be. Although it only takes 6 to 10 hours, the Valbona-Theth hike, due to its remoteness and logistics, requires 3 days in your Albania travel itinerary . The journey has multiple changes of minivans and a ferry ride.

I know that at first glance it may seem a bit too much of an effort to be put into one day trek, but trust me it is all worth it. With a bit of advance planning, the journey to Albanian Alps will be one of the best experiences this country can offer you.

Keep on reading this post where I share all the practical tips, answer the most important questions and provide a step-by-step guide that will help you to get ready for the unforgettable Valbona-Theth trekking adventure!

Note:  This post contains affiliate links, which means that I may make a small commission at no extra cost to you if you make a purchase by clicking a link. This helps to keep my blog growing and filling up with detailed honest travel advice for you. 

Valbona Theth Hike in Albanian Alps- Everything You Need to Know Before You Go

Valbona-theth hike highlights video (1-minute cinematic footage).

Before we jump into planning, I invite you to watch this video to get a little bit of a taste of what to expect on your Albanian Alps journey. I was documenting our Valbona to Theth hike from the start to finish and compiled it into a short moody 1-minute cinematic clip. Enjoy watching!

Valbona-Theth Hike Overview

Distance: 9.5 KM from Rrogam to Theth trailheads (12 to 19 KM from Valbona to Theth, depending on your starting and ending points).

Duration: 5-8 hours of moving time, depending on your speed and distance (6-10 hours with stops).

Difficulty Level: moderate to difficult (depends on your fitness level).

Minimum and Maximum Elevation: 780 m and 1800 respectively.

Elevation gain and loss: 800 m and 1018 m respectively (direction Valbona- Theth).

Mobile network and Internet connection: poor or none (weak signal available closer to the villages and at the peak).

Is a guide needed? The trail is well-marked, thus, a guide is optional.

Minimum water requirement: carry 2 liters (several refill spots available at water springs and mountain cafes).

Kids friendly? Small kids no, age 8-10+ yes.

Summary: Valbona-Theth hike features steep inclines and declines with a mix of sandy and rocky terrain, some scree slopes and a few boulder sections, forest paths, leveled walks, several water sources.

STEP 1. Albanian Alps Trip Itinerary and Map (route Shkoder-Valbona-Theth-Shkoder)

When planning the Valbona Theth hike, you should dedicate 3 days as a bare minimum, where 2 days are for traveling and 1 day is for the hike itself. You might also want to spend longer if you are planning to do other hikes in Valbona and/or Theth.

We could only spend 3 days in the Albanian Alps, therefore, our itinerary looked as follows:

• Transfer from Shkoder to Komani Lake Ferry by minibus with hotel pick up at 6:30 am
• Boarding the ferry from Koman to Fierze at 9 am
• Minibus from Fierze to Valbone at 12 pm
• Arriving at accommodation in Valbone at 1 pm, overnight in Valbone.
• 6 am drop off at the end of Valbona village (closer drop off possible in Rrogam)
• Valbona to Theth hike
• Overnight at Theth village
• Exploring Theth village early morning
• 12 PM minibus to Shkoder (pick up at accommodation in Theth)
• At 3 pm returning to Shkoder

If you prefer to have everything organized for you, check out this 4-day Valbona Pass hike and kayaking tour starting from Tirana which includes accommodation, transportation, and food. Click here for prices and availability.

Route Map: Shkoder-Valbona-Theth

STEP 2. When is the best time to do Valbona Theth hike?

The hiking season in Albanian Alps starts around May and lasts until mid-October, depending on the ever-changing weather.

  July and August are good months to complete Valbona-Theth hike because most of the snow on the trail will have melted by then. Also, the rainfall possibility is much lower. The downside, though, it is also a peak hiking season, hence, the trails get very busy.

I would say, September must be a perfect time to do this hike as there are fewer people on the trail and the weather is still good. While shoulder season in May-early June could be an option. However, chances are that paths will be still covered in snow and ice.

Finally, winters are known for heavy snowfalls. That means it would not be possible to trek from Valbona to Theth in winter. We hiked in July and still came across a section of snow that was a little sketchy and required extra caution to pass it.

It is also worth noting that mountain weather is still very unpredictable. Even in summer, you can expect heavy rainfall to appear out of the blue sky. Therefore, it is always a good idea to constantly check weather forecasts.

As mentioned before, our girls’ group hiked during the last week of July. The worst weather during the whole trip caught us by surprise while driving from Berat to Shkoder. Skies and weather forecasts predicted heavy storms and lightning throughout the next few days, including areas of Valbona and Theth. We were concerned that the hike might not even happen.

However, we had the best luck with the weather changing completely on our hiking day. Each and every weather forecast website predicted heavy rains and thunders while in reality sun was shining early morning, followed by beautiful clouds at the peak in the afternoon, and not a single raindrop ever after.  

Hence, this is just proof of how unpredictable mountain weather can be. But remember to always be prepared for the worst of it (but expect the best as we did).

STEP 3. Which Way is Better: Valbona to Theth, or Theth to Valbona?

I advise hiking from Valbona to Theth. After completing the trail, I was glad that I chose this direction rather than the opposite.

Here are the 7 reasons (in no particular order) why hiking from Valbona to Theth is by far a better option:

• The journey from Shkoder to Valbona village is long with multiple transportation changes. However, you will still arrive at Valbone early enough to take a good rest before the next day’s hike. Also, it is better to deal with all this long commuting at the beginning of the trip rather than at the end when you are exhausted from the long hike (trust me you will be).
• The trail on Valbona side starts with a more gradual ascend and a good amount of leveled walk. Only the last bit closer to the peak is steeper, and even that still has some straight surfaces to give your legs a break.
• The path from Valbona Pass down to Theth village is mostly in the forest. On a hot afternoon, it will be an advantage.
• The path from Theth to the peak is a constant incline, with no leveled breaks. We saw many people coming from Theth side who looked completely out of breath and miserable.
• The trail starts in Rrogam- which is around 4km or more away from Valbona (where all the accommodation is). However, you can always arrange a ride to drop you at the trailhead, or at least at the end of Valbona village. This way you will save at least an hour of walking which you most likely couldn’t avoid if you were coming from Theth side (as there simply be nobody to give you a ride).
• The trail leading from Valbona to the peak is more scenic, to my opinion, therefore it is great to enjoy it while you are still full of energy and driven by the purpose of reaching the peak. On the way down, once in the forest, you will most likely feel tired and willing just to get over the rest of the hike as soon as possible.
• It is more pleasant to hike the exposed Valbona side early morning than in the afternoon to avoid the burning heat during the summer months.

What about trekking one way to the peak and back?

Some of you may wonder if trekking to the peak and back is feasible. I would say, not really unless you absolutely have to. Some blogs advise trekking from Theth to Valbona pass and back. However, you would be missing out on a more beautiful side of the trail on Valbona side. Moreover, you will have to hike a more physically demanding section of constant incline and decline of over 1000 meters. If you were to choose Valbona to Valbona Pass and back direction, then you would be missing out on the Theth side. Theth village is more charming than Valbona. Moreover, the ride from Theth back to Shkoder is also stunning.

STEP 4. Valbona-Theth Transportation (how to book mini vans and Komani ferry tickets)

How to get from shkoder to valbona using komani lake ferry.

The trip to Valbona mountain village, which is around 200 KM away from Shkoder, involves using ground and water transport: 2 minivans/minibusses and 1 ferry ride. Route Shkoder-Koman-Fierze-Valbona is by far the best way to go. 

The journey will take around 5-6 HRS starting with an early morning pick-up from your hotel in Shkoder. I advise you to pack some breakfast/lunch as there won’t be many options for food on the ferry (we only ordered a cup of coffee to go along with our takeaway sandwiches).

A breakdown of the journey from Shkoder to Valbona:

• 6:30-7 AM pick up from Shkoder accommodation
• 7 AM- 9AM: minivan/minibus from Shkoder to Koman Ferry terminal
• 9 AM – 11:30AM: Koman Lake Ferry to Fierza
• 11:30 AM- 1 PM: minibus from Fierza Ferry terminal to Valbona accommodation

It is also possible to drive from Shkoder to Valbona directly for around 5 hours, but it is definitely a more exhausting way. Also, I am not sure if a 4×4 is required for this drive. And most importantly, you would be missing out on the highlight of this section- the Komani Lake Ferry ride.

Komani Lake Ferry is an attraction and a real treat on its own. It is considered to be one of the most beautiful boat trips in the world, but still is relatively unknown! A 2.5 to 3 hours long ferry ride will take you through the so-called Albanian “Fjords”. Indeed, you will be surrounded by high cliffs while gliding through narrow gorges in the turquoise waters of the beautiful Komani Lake. The scenery reminded me of Thailand, and it felt like we were not in Europe anymore.

Komani Lake Ferry Itinerary and Tickets

BERISHA FERRY with minivan services

The easiest way to arrange this whole trip is to book everything (including the minivan) using one of the most popular companies Berisha. You can make reservations for both ferries and minivans on their website . Note that Komani Ferry runs daily from April to November.

The ferry ticket price with Berisha is 7 EUR (800 LEK) which will be discounted by 20% when booked online and paid by Paypal. Ferry also has limited space for cars for 7EUR per square meter (you have to measure the surface of your car to get the price-strangest thing I’ve ever seen).

How to book a pick-up service for the whole Shkoder-Koman-Fierze-Valbona route with Berisha?

We have reserved our journey to Valbona in advance using the Berisha website. The total cost of the journey was 18 EUR (2500 LEK) per person with door-to-door pickup and drop-off. Berisha also offers transfer services from Tirana (from the bus station).

In order to book the whole trip, you will have to fill in the form on the Berisha website here , indicating the date of travel and the name of your accommodation in Shkoder if you are going from there. The instructions and costs of all the services are provided here . You can only pay online for the ferry, while the remaining 12 EUR for the minivan you will have to pay in cash to the driver (both EUR and LEK are accepted).

USEFUL TIP: Berisha ferry is very popular during peak season in July and August. Therefore, it is mandatory to book tickets in advance to ensure your seat. We booked everything a couple of weeks before our trip.

Berisha Ferry or Boat Dragobia?

There are two types of ferries offered by Berisha company- Ferry Berisha and Boat Dragobia, both depart Komani at around the same time at 9 AM. Ferry Berisha is a much bigger 3-level boat with the capacity for cars and motorbikes. It also offers more space to move around on the “ground level” open deck, the upper deck with seats, and the roof cover. Therefore, it is much better for taking pictures. Inside seating space with the coffee shop and bathroom is also available. Dragobia, on another hand, is a long-tail passenger-only boat with seating inside only. Therefore, views from it will be different, and more difficult to take cool pictures.  

Other Komani Lake ferry options

Besides, Berisha, there are 2 other companies operating in Komani Lake: Rozafa Ferry and Alpin Ferry .

ROZAFA FERRY

Rozafa was parked next to our Berisha ferry and was much emptier than the latter. I was even tempted to make a swap as Berisha was really busy. However, Rozafa ferry doesn’t seem to have such a well-developed service, and I am not sure that booking online is even possible (I tried opening their website with no luck, but they are active on their Instagram account). Nevertheless, in case you need to catch a ferry last minute, it seems like you can easily get a seat in Rozafa without any advance reservation. Rozafa also departs from the Koman Lake ferry terminal at 9:00 AM.

ALPIN FERRY

More upscale and much bigger, the Alpin ferry offers an opposite timetable than Berisha and Rozafa. It departs from Koman to Fierze at 11 AM and is slightly more expensive- 8EUR for a passenger. This option would suit those of you who are willing to go to Valbona later in the afternoon. You can make ticket reservations on the Alpin website. Note that you will then have to arrange your own ground transport from Shkoder to Koman and from Fierze to Valbone if you choose this ferry. I am certain you can organize a car from Shkoder through your accommodation, but I am not sure how it works from Fierze to Valbone. Chances are there might be minivans waiting to pick up travelers without a need to reserve in advance.

How to Get Back from Theth to Shkoder?

Getting back from Theth to Shkoder takes only 2.5-3 hours as the windy mountain roads have recently improved. You can book your seat in a minibus through your accommodation in Theth a night before the trip .

The minibus departs at 12 PM every day and will pick you up from the place you stay in Theth. We reserved seats in a minibus to Shkoder immediately after our hike once we reached Theth guesthouse. Our hosts made a quick call and it was done.

I believe there must be multiple buses operating daily, especially during the hiking season as there are many tourists and locals traveling from Theth to Shkoder. Still, once you have your accommodation in Theth booked, it doesn’t hurt to email your hosts and asks them to book a minibus for you in advance.

Can I drive to Valbona or Theth?

UPDATE: the road from Shkoder to Theth village has been paved and now any type of vehicle can access the village. The same goes for the road to Valbona- you can drive any vehicle to Komani Lake Ferry station and then from Fierza to Valbona.

If you have a 4×4, you could drive to Theth or Valbona. I am not sure if you need 4×4 for Valbona though, but for Theth, I would say, you should avoid sedans as roads at some parts closer to and in the village are not everywhere paved. However, the big disadvantage of going in your own car is that you will have to hike back to either Valbona or Theth (depending on where you leave your car) or make a massive loop back to either of the towns via Shkoder. This option doesn’t make much sense, obviously.  

Looking for car hire in Albania? Check Localrent which offers the best rates and conditions for renting a car in Albania!

Rent a Car in Albania

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ALSO READ: Ultimate guide to renting a car and driving in Albania.

STEP 5. Accommodation in Valbona, Theth, and Shkoder

SHKODER is the northernmost biggest town in Albania at the banks of Skodra (Skadar) Lake. It also serves as a base for trips to the Albanian Alps with a good variety of places to stay before and after your mountain trip.

Both VALBONA and THETH have guesthouses that can be booked through booking.com or other accommodation booking platforms. I always check reviews and prefer booking homestays. Hosts of which always prove to be very hospitable, often including free breakfast and homemade dinner at a reasonable rate, Moreover, they are willing to help with any logistics-related queries.

When booking accommodation in VALBONA , check the map and try staying closer to Rrogam side if you are planning to walk to the trailhead from the guesthouse. Although you can easily book a drop-off with your accommodation. Valbona village, differently from Theth, is very spread out along the long riverbed of the Valbone Valley. It also has fewer guesthouses to choose from.

For THETH , after finishing the hike, we had to walk an extra 30min to our accommodation which was close to the Theth church. I have picked this location simply because of the convenience to take some images of the beautiful church at sunset. However, you can find guesthouses that are just outside Valbona-Theth trailhead.

Do I need to carry my heavy-duty luggage with me when going to the mountains?

No, you don’t. Since the Valbona-Theth is a very popular one-way trek, most travelers leave their big luggage at a hotel in Shkoder. Many accommodations in Shkoder will allow storing your main luggage (usually for a small additional 1 EUR fee) for the days you are away hiking. That means you don’t have to worry about dealing with your huge suitcases and just take the bare minimum for those 3 days. Remember, you will have to carry everything with you from Valbona to Theth.

It is feasible to book the same accommodation to stay at before and after your mountain trip (taken you are staying a night in Shkoder after coming back from Theth). Also, it is always a good idea to read travelers’ reviews on booking sites to see what they are saying about luggage storage at a particular hotel or guesthouse.

USEFUL TIP: if you are traveling during the peak season, I highly recommended booking accommodation in advance to make sure you get the best guesthouses to stay at.

We were really happy with our choice of accommodation in Valbona, Theth, and Shkoder. Therefore, the following are my recommendations for the places to stay in Shkoder, Valbona, and Theth:

• Shkoder: we stayed in two different accommodations before and after the hiking trip. Both are very different but great places to stay, and they also allow you to store big luggage while you hike. HOTEL LEGJENDA – artsy vibe chalets with exceptional quiet surroundings, garden, pool, ground for campervans, walking distance to Rozafa Castle (go there for sunset), 4km from Shkoder city center. All Seasons Apartments – a self-contained very cozy new two-bedroom apartment in the heart of Shkoder but still on a quiet street. The owner of the apartment was extremely helpful and kind- I would stay there again.
• Valbona: VILLAS JEZERCA – cozy chalets with fantastic mountain views, delicious food and amazing hospitality of the family running this accommodation. They prepared us takeaway food for the hike and dropped us closer to the trail at the end of Valbona free of charge (it added us just 3km of a beautiful walk along the river bed to Rrogam where the trailhead is).
• Theth : Guest House Bec Villi – lovely traditional village guesthouse featuring a beautiful garden, serving delicious homemade food. They also can help organize minibus back to Shkoder. Guest House Marashi – a bit more upscale Instagrammer-loved stylish wooden rooms, some of which have bathtubs inside the room overlooking the mountains and/or lovely private terraces. Great homemade food is also served at this guesthouse.

Camping Valbona and Theth

As far as camping goes, there are no restrictions as such where you can pitch your tent, at least along the trail. You can also find designated areas for camping in both mountain villages for a small fee. On the trail, you may want o camp somewhere with water access. We met a lady who was planning her overnight camp in the mountains. From what we saw, water access was next to mountain cafes, one of them at the very beginning of the trail on the Valbona side, while the other one was around two-thirds into the trails closer to Theth side.

STEP 6. Valbona to Theth Hiking Trail: Terrain, Length, and Difficulty

Valbona to Theth hike is moderately challenging featuring breathtaking views of the Albanian Alps trough out the whole route. Here are all the answers to the questions I had and therefore, I believe you may have as well, about the Valbona Pass trail.

VALBONA TO THETH HIKE DIFFICULTY

Valbona to Theth hike can be rated as a moderate plus hike. The route is well-marked and features a good variety of rugged terrain, sandy mountain, and forest paths, some scree, and a few boulder areas. It has steep inclines but with portions of leveled walk allowing for rest. The decline after the Valbona pass is mostly continuous, with a very little leveled walk. That is why if you hiked from Theth, it would be a tough workout (people coming from that side looked out of breath).

The trail is not technical and does not require any special equipment (except hiking poles which could be useful to have but not a must).  

People who claim to be unfit are still successfully attempting this hike. We saw hikers of different age groups and fitness levels trekking.

Definitely, there are parts to struggle through, especially at steeper ascends and descends, however, go at your own pace, take as many breaks as you need and you should be just fine. Also, the maximum altitude is only 1800 meters, so you should not be affected by the altitude.

VALBONA TO THETH HIKE DISTANCE

The distance of the whole hike will depend on the starting and finishing points. The official trail length is 9.5 KM. It starts in Rrogam and finishes in Theth. However, it is very likely that you will be covering much more ground if you start from your accommodation in Valbona. It could easily add at least 4KM to the trail (or even 9 KM, if you stay far from Rrogam).  Also, you will definitely have to walk a little bit to your guesthouse in Theth. Some of which are situated a few kilometers away from the finish line.

We did in total 19 KM, 9.5 KM of which was part of the walk from and to the villages. Our starting point was at the end of Valbona village (that’s where we got dropped off by our hosts). You can arrange a drop-off at Rrogam, which requires a 4×4 car and may be subject to additional fees. Since we didn’t pay for a lift, I am not sure how much it would be, but I read online it may cost around 20 EUR.

HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO HIKE FROM VALBONA TO THETH

Hiking from Valbona to Theth can take anywhere from 6 to 10 hours. It depends, on how fast you go and how many breaks you take. Very fit hikers can make it in under 5 hours (but this is pure running through the trail, which is not fun to me).

Also, it depends on the distance you are meant to cover (as explained above).

According to my Wikiloc recording, it took us 9 hours to complete 15.8 KM (we started 3.5 KM before Rrogam- where the trailhead is) with 6 hours of moving time. It makes an average speed of around 2.6 KM. We spent around 1 hour at Valbona pass taking pictures and enjoying the views. A remaining couple of hours were distributed between shorter stops at mountain cafes and random breaks. Note that it took us additional 40 minutes to get to the guest house in Theth from the finish line, totaling almost 10 hours and 19 KM of hiking.

AT WHAT TIME SHOULD I START HIKING TO VALBONA PASS?

I can’t stress enough- you must start early. Unless you are planning to run through the trail like an athlete, you should start trekking from Valbona as early as 6-7 AM, or  8-9 AM latest. This will give you ample time to complete the hike at an average walking pace, plenty of time for breaks, and finishing with daylight.

Also, if it is a sunny day, starting early would allow you to avoid the boiling summer heat on the exposed side from Valbona to the peak. Moreover, there will be fewer people on the trail breathing back to your neck.

We took off at 6:30 AM because we wanted to avoid big groups of hikers which usually take off later. Also, finishing before the late afternoon storm which was predicted for the late afternoon. We have successfully avoided both, except the Valbona peak crowds. Unless you leave at night, chances are by midday everyone will arrive at the peak and there will be big groups of hikers hanging around.

VALBONA TO THETH HIKE DIVIDED INTO SECTIONS

To give you a better idea of what to expect, and, therefore, how to allocate your time, I have split the hike into the following sections:

Section 1: flat walk over the rocky riverbed to the trailhead- 3.5KM.

This is the easiest section which starts as leveled walk for 3.5 KM from the end of Valbona village to the trailhead in Rrogam. You will be passing over a dry rocky riverbed surrounded by pine trees, and towering peaks of Accursed mountains dominating the background. There is no incline in this section.

Section 2: getting used to the incline- 2.5 KM.

During the next 2.5 KM from the Rrogam Theth trailhead sign, the path starts ascending. At first slightly, but then it gets steeper and tougher but still with good portions of flat surface walk. At the beginning of this section, you will pass some farmhouses that also operate as guesthouses, and Emanueli café (which we skipped as it was too early for a break). After the café, you will realize that the climbing business is getting serious. The trail starts to present more rocky terrain and much steeper inclines than before. Pace yourself, there is more to come.  

Section 3: steep ascent before the summit – 1.6 KM.

Let’s mark the start of the 3 rd section with Simoni café where you can have a mountain tea (or coke) break before the real hike begins. Immediately after passing Simoni café, you will start tackling rocky and steep terrains. Soon after a short stretch in the forest, the beautiful valley view starts to open up and you will be hiking the bare mountain face. Welcome to the toughest but extremely scenic part of the trail.

Section 4: conquering Valbona pass – 700 M.

The last bit, before reaching Valbona pass, is a narrow road winding around the side of the mountain. Here we faced a couple of minor challenges.

One was a 15 meters long chunk of snow hanging over a cliff. It was only two feet wide. Thus, it took a little bit of courage to pass a narrow slippery snow path- but I guess it looked scarier than it was dangerous.

Second, which I was more concerned about than the snow, was a pure scree slope. At that section, the path was completely gone for a distance of a few meters. We had to carefully step through it- the slope was steep, angled at around 35-45 degrees. Not to scare you off, just go slowly watching your steps and you will be fine.

Section 5: Valbona pass and the summit- 200 M.

Once you reach Valbona pass, you will enjoy the panoramic views of the valley and Accursed mountains from two sides. Note, that the flat space at the pass is quite small, and it got very crowded shortly after we reached it.

Luckily, you can climb another 200 meters to the vantage point on the left. Not everybody is willing to go higher up because of the steep sandy path. Once at the top, you will be able to walk further to the right side or continue even higher up to the other peaks.

You might feel already tired, but it is definitely worth the effort. I went a little bit further away from the hotspot and was completely alone enjoying the glorious views of the Prokletije mountain range, peacefully flying my drone.

Section 6: steep descent through the forest to the last mountain café- 2 KM.

Path to the other side of the Valbona pass is a steep descent through rocky terrain and a beautiful forest. Views of the mountains and valleys appear sparse, but on a hot day, you will be relieved to have shade. In this section, you will reach the last café simply called- Bar Café Restaurant. Take a break here as there is still some ground to cover and your knees may not like it.

Section 7: continuing steep descent through the forest to Theth – 5.3 KM.

The last bit of the trail is the most painful. The steep descent is really hard on the knees. Moreover, there are parts with loose gravel where you should take extra caution not to slip and fall. I have to admit this bit was my least favorite- it felt long and boring. Despite going through beautiful forest and bits of alpine meadows, I was still looking forward to finally reaching the guesthouse in Theth, which, to make things tougher for us, was another 3 KM away from the trail end.

The total distance of the trail we did was 15.8 KM (from Valbona to Theth trail end). But in total, we walked around 19 KM because we chose the guesthouse which was a bit further away. No regrets though, as the location of our accommodation was fantastic.

STEP 7. HOW TO PREPARE FOR VALBONA THETH HIKE

Having done many long day treks in the UAE , I already know by heart what works best on hikes. In Valbona to Theth scenario, however, I had to plan well for 3 days because, for everything I took, I had to carry on a hike.

The most important piece of advice I can give you for this hike is to take the absolute minimum and only items you cannot survive without. Wear the clothes that you will hike in, including boots. Take only a lightweight change of outfits for the final day. Leave whatever you won’t need because every, even the smallest thing you take, adds up to the weight of the backpack. 

WHAT SHOULD I BRING AND WEAR FOR VALBONA THETH HIKE?

Being well-prepared for any hike is crucial. However, you have to pack for 3 days, you have to filter absolute must-takes from the fancy additions to your trekking gear. Here are my notes on the Valbona Theth hiking essentials.

HIKING GEAR AND FOOD

Hiking Boots: I recommend not messing around with footwear and getting yourself proper waterproof hiking boots with a good grip . Although people still do this hike in sneakers, however, it is safer and more comfortable to wear sturdy hiking shoes which will protect your ankles and reduce the risk of slipping and falling.

Windbreaker/Raincoat: In Albanian Alps, rains are unpredictable and the wind on the top of the mountain is strong. Therefore, a proper waterproof windbreaker, for example, like this Colombia jacket , is a lifesaver.

Layer Up: Wear a couple of light layers of sweat-absorbing fabric tops for your own comfort: a t-shirt and a long-sleeve thermal shirt . For colder weather, especially mornings and evenings, instead of a heavy hoody, lightweight fleece is the perfect option.

Water: Luckily on this hike, there are at least 2 spots to refill your water reservoir. The first one is at Simoni Café after almost 6 KM hiking from Valbona trailhead. The second one is at the Café Bar Restaurant when descending to Theth. And I believe there were some water streams along the way too. Therefore, I only carried 2 liters of water in my Camelbak bladder as opposed to at least 5 liters which would be usually needed for this type of hike.

Food: We took our takeaway breakfast and lunch from the guesthouse in Valbona. The guys packed us so much bread that we would have survived for a few days. We also had some protein and snickers bars with us. Luckily, if you finish all your snacks early and get really hungry, the second café on the descent to Theth served some basic food.

Comfortable Backpack with Water Bladder: a comfortable backpack that fits what’s needed for a day hike, and has proper padding, waist, and chest holders, goes long way on long hikes. Consider getting a water bladder with a straw instead of a usual refillable water bottle. Something like this Camelbak serves to be very useful when distributing the weight in the backpack equally, plus no need to remove it each time you want to drink (because of the easily accessible straw).

Trekking Poles: optional, but I wish I had them when descending, it would have reduced the load on the knees significantly. For a day trek, the best are lightweight foldable hiking poles, like these Cascade Mountain Tech walking sticks .

Sunscreen, cap, and sunglasses: On a sunny day you may get sunburned easily, therefore a small bottle of strong sunblock is a must. The same goes for a cap and sunglasses.

First Aid Kit: a basic plaster for blisters and some Panadol at least to be on the safe side.

Waterproof Cover for the Backpack, Gear, and Documents: rains in Albanian Alps are ruthless, so make sure you not only have protection for yourself but also a good waterproof cover for your sensitive items such as photo cameras and passports.

NAVIGATING VALBONA THETH TRAIL- IS IT WELL MARKED?

Valbona-Theth trail is marked with a red painted circle with a white dot in the middle, or red-white-red painted flags throughout the whole trail. Those markings appear very often on the trees and rocks (say every 50-100 meters or so).

Moreover, you can pre-download the trail on the Wikiloc app which also works offline. I have recorded this trail on my Wikiloc account here .

INTERNET CONNECTION ON THE TRAIL

Internet connection was weak around Valbona and Theth villages and mostly unavailable during the hike (we got some signal at the peak though).

DO I NEED A GUIDE FOR VALBONA THETH HIKE?

If you are comfortable navigating mountain trails and have done some longer hikes before, you won’t need a guide, especially knowing that this trail is well-marked. I would only advise a guide for those people who have never done any long-distance hikes in the wild mountains before. Even then, this trail is very popular and you will definitely see other people trekking, which also will give you more confidence doing it without a guide.

IS IT SAFE TO HIKE VALBONA PASS SOLO?

For an experienced hiker, it is absolutely fine to do the Valbona Theth trek alone. Note that it might not be the case for everyone, especially those people scared of heights.

If I had to do this trail on my own, I would confidently go ahead. Besides, if you are on your own, you most likely will find other hikers to pair up with.

CAN KIDS HIKE VALBONA THETH TRAIL?

The hike is quite steep, with few exposed sections, and also very long. Therefore, I would say it is not suitable for young kids, but for older ones, starting 8-10+ who are used to hiking, should be fine to do it. I have to admit, we haven’t seen kids during the whole hike, but we saw elderly people doing that (true inspiration to look up to).

IS VALBONA THETH TRAIL DOGS FRIENDLY?

We saw stray dogs at Valbona pass, so yes dogs can walk this trail too. The only thing that I am not sure about is if it is allowed to have your dog on a minibus or a ferry. We have not seen pets on public transport while traveling to the mountains.

Other things to be aware of while hiking on Valbona Theth route

There are wild animals in the Albanian mountains: wolves, bears, and lynxes.  We could hear wolves howling far in the mountains when we were at our Valbona guesthouse. However, wild animals don’t like interacting with people and wouldn’t go to the trails. That being said, make sure you stay on the marked route and don’t wander anywhere far inside the forests.

What if I have luggage that I cannot/do not want to leave in Shkoder?

The only way to solve this dilemma is to base yourself in Valbona or Theth and hike halfway to the peak and back to your base. It is not an ideal option, but it is there if you do not have another choice.

BUDGETING VALBONA THETH HIKE: expenses breakdown per person

Transport from Shkoder to Valbone: 18 EUR for the whole trip, including Komani ferry.

Transport from Theth to Shkoder: 10 EUR (1200 LEK) for a minivan.

Accommodation in Valbone: 15 EUR including breakfast (45 EUR for triple chalet).

Accommodation in Theth: 10 EUR including breakfast (30 EUR for triple room).

Dinner: 8-10 EUR for 1 dinner.

Drinks at the mountain cafe: 2 EUR per drink.

Total cost: approx. 75 EUR per person

USEFUL TIP: Take cash because there are no ATMs in Valbona and Theth villages. Both LEK and EUR are accepted at transport and guesthouses.

To Sum Up:  the main 5 tips for Valbona Theth Hike

• Choose the hiking direction from Valbona to Theth (instead of the reverse).
• Leave your main luggage in Shkoder at a guesthouse or hotel and take the bare minimum because you will need to carry all your stuff with you on a hike.
• Reserve accommodation and ferry tickets in advance (at least 2 weeks) if you are travelling during the peak season
• Bring cash as there are no ATMs in the villages.
• Account for unpredictable weather and bring a good waterproof jacket and covers for your most important items.

Last but not least, please keep the trail clean, and take your trash with you.

If you have any more questions about this hike, drop me an email. Otherwise, I wish you safe and enjoyable hiking!

A LITTLE BIT MORE ABOUT THETH (THINGS TO DO AND SEE)

The sleepy alpine village of Theth comes to life during the hiking season. With clusters of guesthouses sprinkled along the dreamy valley walled by Accursed mountains, Theth today is an ultimate hiker’s base camp. Regardless of its growing popularity, Theth is very atmospheric. The time seems to have stopped here, you can see piles of hay dotted around the village, and meet herdsmen with their sheep peacefully roaming around.

Theth is considered to be the more picturesque of the two mountain towns. Therefore, it is also a good reason to spend more time there exploring other things this charming mountain village has to offer.

Theth Church- a little gem for beautiful photography

A highlight, and probably the most photographed object in the village, is a small 19th-century stone-and-shingle Theth church. It is hidden further away from the main gravel road, toward the end of the village. I advise visiting the church at dusk when it gets lightened up. Its silhouette against the tall mountains with burning orange sunset skies looks incredibly mysterious.

Lock-in Tower of Theth

Hundreds of years old historical structure which was used to imprison the deadliest criminals back in the olden days, Lock-in Tower of Theth is now one of the main tourist attractions. You may visit it as well on a guided tour led by one of the descendants of the family this tower belonged to.

Drink Coffee with a view

Opposite the Lock-In tower, we came across a simple cafe. At first, we didn’t pay any attention to it as we were headed to see the tower. Soon a friendly local on a motorbike showed up and invited us to sit on the terrace, from where fantastic views of the mountains open up. It was a fantastic start to the late morning a day after our long Valbona hike. I highly recommend checking this no-name café out.

Go on Day Hikes from Theth

Although we only had time for one night in Theth, we would have loved to stay a few nights more and go on other hikes around the area.

The most well-known is the hike to The Blue Eye of Theth , which is around 17 KM (6 hours) return trek to the turquoise alpine pool. I have already added it to my bucket list for my next trip to Albanian Alps!

ALBANIA TRAVEL RESOURCES

Planning your trip to Albania soon? Below are some useful links to help organize your trip.

• My TOP TIP : The best way to explore Albania is by self-driving. Look for the best rental car rates at Localrent or Discover Cars .
• Best flight deals: Use Skyscanner to find the cheapest and fastest flights to Albania from your location.
• Accommodation: book your perfect stay using Booking.com .
• Before You Go: 90-day tourist visa is free for most nationalities; if not apply for an Albania visa easily at iVisa .
• Travel insurance : for safe traveling in Albania. Get a quote at SafetyWing .
• Guided tours: look for the best-rated Albania tours on GetYourGuide and Viator .
• Local SIM Card: Get a sim at Tirana airport arrivals hall. The best coverage is provided by Vodafone. A tourist pack with 70 GB of data and free local calls costs 2000 LEK (17 EUR).

More Albania Travel Resources:

• Driving in Albania: everything you need to know before renting a car
• Plan your trip to Albania with my suggested Albania road trip itinerary.
• Check how to spend a day or two in Tirana with my detailed Tirana Itinerary.
• Do you want to explore more of the Balkans? Check out my Epic 2-week Montenegro Road Trip Itinerary .

Hi! I am a freelance photographer & videographer as well the creator of www.theroadreel.com. Born in Lithuania, and currently residing in the UAE, I have been traveling around the globe independently for over a decade. I created The Road Reel to share my passion for travel and photography through detailed road trips and city itineraries, and hiking guides, along with regular and drone photogragraphy tips.

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Theth and Valbona Pass in mid-June - Albania Forum

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We'll be Albania in mid-June and we would love to see Theth and do the Valbona hikes. I did quite a bit of research and read there might be snow, possibly making the official route hard or even impossible. I've also read there's a alternative, safer Winter route. But I can't find any good information.

We want to start booking and hotels and want to avoid traveling all the way for nothing in Theth.

So my question is: should the Winter route be available (at least)? Would it still be worth going all the way to Theth for some nature mountain hikes in mid-June?

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Albania | along coastal roads, canyons & clear blue rivers

Imagine cruising along winding serpentines while you gaze at the loud blue sea, the windows down, and the breeze of the Ionian Sea dancing through your hair. A sun-salt smell runs up your nose. As you stretch out your hand you can feel the freedom! Soon, you’re driving next to turquoise rivers and can’t believe your eyes as you see the massive canyon right beside you. You’ll be surprised at what spectacular nature awaits you on your Albania itinerary.

Table of contents

Cities to visit on your Albania itinerary

Todo in tirana:.

• Join a free walking tour – The best way to learn about Albania’s and Tirana’s history and some fun facts
• Visit a bunker museum – Further out of the city there’s BUNK’ART 1, and BUNK’ART 2 right in Tirana’s center. Both are important museums that deliver insight into the dark past of communism and war in Albania (BUNK’ART 1 giving a broad overview of the history, and BUNK’ART 2 displaying a dark human point of view).
• Skanderbeg Square & the old Mosque – A historical place named after the Albanian national hero during Ottoman times. On the square, you can find the beautiful old Et’hem Bej Mosque, one of the few that had survived war times.
• Pazari i Ri – The large bazaar full of groceries in one of the oldest parts of Tirana.
• Tirana Castle – A medieval castle of which only a wall from the Ottoman era remains today, nowadays housing handicraft stores & cafes.
• Hoxha Pyramide – a lost place right in Tirana that used to be the most expensive building in Albania (named after the dictator) that’s currently under construction to become a museum.

Stay in Tirana:

• Hotel/Apartment: Rooftop Tirana   – Beautiful, modern apartments in the heart of Tirana with everything you need (especially parking which is important on an Albania itinerary by car).
• Hostel: Tirana Backpacker Hostel   – The perfect place to meet fellow travelers with a funky backyard and awesome breakfast.

Hotel recommendation for Tirana: Rooftop Tirana

These small but modern apartments in the heart of Tirana have everything you need (especially with parking, which can be tricky on a road trip in Albania’s capital). From here you can walk everywhere and enjoy the view over the city in the evening. In my opinion, also an unbeatable price! But be sure to contact the host before you arrive, because the apartments are hard to find.

Contrasts in Tirana

ToDo in Berat:

• Castle – Walk up to the castle and enjoy the view
• Stroll through the old town and cross the bridge – for a great view of the old town and its windows
• Join a free walking tour   – for great insights into the history and myths of this town
• Head to the beautiful vineyard Alpeta – for a wine tasting and a tour for only 15 Euros
• Osumi Canyon – A perfect day trip into Albania’s most stunning nature

Eat in Berat:

• Temi Albanian Food – Authentic, homemade food in an old alley up the hill with many vegetarian options and unbeatable prices
• Lili Homemade Food – A great place to try traditional food close to Berat’s center

Stay in Berat:

• Alpeta Agroturism   – A short drive from Berat you can stay in the vineyard’s lovely rooms in the middle of hills covered with olive trees
• Xho’s Forest – A small B&B with four rooms close to Berat’s historical center with a lush garden where you can have breakfast in the shade of the trees among many cute cats and extremely welcoming owners
• Berat Backpackers Hostel – It was the second hostel in Albania and has a beautiful outdoor area in a traditional building
• Maya Hostel – Another gem with a lovely garden right in the center of Berat

Hotel recommendation for Berat: Alpeta Agroturism

Just a short drive from Berat, you can stay in the beautiful rooms of this winery set amidst hills covered with olive trees. A super beautiful, authentic experience in the middle of the vineyards of Albania. Don’t miss to join a Wine Tasting there in the evening – when the welcoming father joins in, it can quickly turn into a Raki Tasting as well. We had a super nice evening there that felt like a vacation at friends’ homes.

If you’re short on time you can visit Berat on a day trip from Tirana.

Berat & its surrounding vineyards

Gjirokaster

Todo in gjirokaster.

• The castle – for a spectacular view across Gjirokaster
• Old Bazaar – Climb the steep alleys around the old Bazaar and stroll through the carpet and handcraft shops
• Ali Pasha bridge – an abandoned bridge in the countryside just a short hike (around 20 minutes) from town
• Day trip to Lengarica Canyon & Bënjë thermal baths – one of my favorite spots in Albania

Stay in Gjirokaster

• TeArra   – A bit up the hill, but led by a loving host Adi who loves to bake treats for her guests and prepares a large breakfast on her beautiful cozy terrace
• Grandpa’s Home   – A guesthouse that awaits you with the warmheartedness you’d expect from this name. With a beautiful garden and terrace and view of the castle.
• Stone City Hostel – a lovely hostel in a traditional house right in the center of Gjirokaster with a garden, roof terrace, and great breakfast

Hotel recommendation for Gjirokaster: TeArra

Located a bit further up the hill, this little guesthouse is run by the lovely hostess Adi, who loves to bake goodies for her guests and prepare a great breakfast on her cute, cozy terrace. The view from up here is really great and it’s easy to walk into the center. The picture shows her sweetly furnished terrace.

Gjirokaster & Ali Pasha Bridge

Albanian Riviera

Places to see in the albanian riviera.

• Dhermi old town & the church (Manastiri i Shën Marisë) – with amazing sea view
• Vuno – A cute, small hillside village
• Butrint National Park – Ruins of an ancient city (with an old Roman theatre, old church, gates, a castle, and many more) in the southernmost part of Albania
• Heads-up: In my opinion, avoid Saranda and Ksamil which are the most touristy places in Albania with one hotel bunker next to the other

Hotel recommendation for Dhermi: Roots

What a beautiful hotel in the sweet old town of Dhermi! The location is truly unique. And the rooms are stylish and modern yet authentic with a stunning sea view from their balcony. What else could you ask for? In my eyes, the dream accommodation on the Albanian Riviera!

Dhermi & ruins of Butrint

Beaches in Albania

• Gjipe Beach – Maybe one of the best beaches in Albania, but still kind of hidden gem in Albania (maybe not so hidden, as there are also sunbeds down there) but an extremely beautiful bay that you can reach after around 30 minutes walk from the parking
• Gjiri i Akuariumit – Just a 20-minute walk from Livadi beach (where you can park) you reach this small bay which is a natural paradise
• Borsh Beach – A super long beach (over 7 km!) that will never seem crowded, as there’s enough place to find a private spot for you.
• Grama Bay – Far away from any other beaches, it’s best to take a boat to Grama bay (e.g. from Himare). It’s also a very historic place where sailors used to escape storms and left inscriptions on the walls.

A bay near Ksamil & Borsh Beach

Stay in the Albanian Riviera

• Roots (in Dhermi) – Located in Dhermi’s cute old town, this small hotel offers beautiful rooms with a stunning view from their balconies
• Guesthouses Luiza (in Borsh) – An authentic guesthouse with lemon trees in their garden and walking distance to the beach

Hotel recommendation at the sea in Borsh: Guesthouses Luiza

An authentic, simple guesthouse, where you can relax among lemon trees in the garden, enjoy the sea view from the balcony and even walk to one of the longest beaches in Albania in just a few minutes. Here you don’t need much more to get to know and love a slightly less touristy part of Albania.

Eat in the Albanian Riviera

• Green Life Market – The first all-vegan restaurant in Albania, run by warm-hearted owners who basically cook in their home. Great atmosphere and even better food that is organic and as local as possible. Highly recommend visiting (probably the only place worth visiting in Saranda)!

Vegan food at Greenlife Market & Albanian Fruit stalls

Canyons, rivers, and lakes

Osum canyon (kanion osumi), lengarica canyon (kanioni i lengarices).

Lengarica Canyon

Bënjë Thermal Baths

Syri i Kaltër (Blue Eye)

Blue Eye & its clear river

Albanian Alps (Prokletije)

Theth and valbona valley, todo in theth:.

• Calm down – The area around the cute village Theth with its iconic church, free-roaming horses and cows and scenic mountain landscape is truly a place to recharge
• Waterfall hike – You can take a bus that brings you close to the waterfall. Then it’s just a short hike
• Blood Rage Tower – It used to be a safehouse for those who had to hide and can be visited nowadays
• Blue Eye – Yes, there’s also a well with the same name as the spring in southern Albania
• Hike to Valbona or even Montenegro – If you’re a fan of hiking further, there are several routes that cross through Valbona and even Montenegro. But you should be an experienced hiker and willing to walk around 20 km a day for these tours.

Stay in Theth National Park:

You can find many authentic, family-run guesthouses in traditional stone houses in the village Theth. This is also the perfect starting point for many hikes and day trips.

• Guesthouse Gjin Thana – A small, family-run guesthouse with mountain views and a lush garden
• Guesthouse Marashi  – Perfectly located right by the river (what a view to wake up in the morning!) and run by warm-hearted hosts

Hotel recommendation in Theth: Guesthouse Marashi

With its unbeatable location directly on the river, you have a stunning view as soon as you wake up in the morning! In addition, you do not have to go far to the waterfall. The beautiful wooden guesthouse is also run by super warm hosts who will make your stay in Theth very special. A place you will always want to come back to!

Theth National Park (pictures by my friend Jule )

Route along the Black Drin

Albania itineraries, how many days do you need for an albania road trip, more on slow travel, how to get to albania.

The ferry from Bari to Durres

How to get around Albania?

Ferry to Durres & driving in Albania

Driving around Albania

Suggested Albania itineraries

2 weeks albania itinerary.

• drive Tirana ⇨ Berat (1.5h / 100km)
• drive Berat ⇨ Gjirokaster (2.5h / 180km)
• drive Gjirokaster ⇨ Blue Eye ⇨ Riviera (1.5 – 2.5h / 90 – 115km)
• drive Riviera ⇨ Kruje ⇨ Koman Lake (5.5h / 320 km), add a night in Kruje if you’d like to avoid the long drive
• Koman Lake & Albanian Alps (3-4 days)

2 weeks Albania itinerary (click for interactive map)

10 days Albania itinerary

3 weeks albania itinerary.

Llogara Pass & Riviera

Llogara Pass

Good to know

When is the best time to visit albania, where to sleep on your albania road trip.

Accommodation in Albania

How expensive is traveling in Albania?

Is traveling in albania safe.

What about Internet? Can you use EU roaming in Albania?

Food in albania.

• Stuffed vegetables (e.g. eggplant, peppers, or pumpkin) – often stuffed with rice, mixed vegetables and sometimes cheese on top
• Ferges – Like a vegetable casserole with cheese
• Pispili – Spinach cake
• Byrek – Like a pie with a soft pastry
• Qifqi – Rice balls (A special from Gjirokaster)
• Sarma – Stuffed wine leaves
• Qofte – Fried vegetable balls
• Petulla – The typical Albanian “pancakes”, but they’re fried, more like donuts
• Raki – There’s no way of leaving Albania without having some Raki (locals often even drink a glass with their coffee in the morning)

Byrek | Stuffed peppers | Albanian “pancakes”

The Albanian language

• Yes – “Po”
• No – “yo”
• Hello – “Pershendetje”
• Thank you – “Faleminderit”
• Good night – “Naten e mire”
• Cheers – “Gezuar”

Sustainable travel in Albania

Why does albania have such a huge trash problem.

Albania’s nature & animals drowning in trash

What can we do as travelers?

• Avoid any plastic packaging (say no to any plastic bags but bring your own tote bag instead)
• Buy fresh fruit or freshly prepared snacks instead of packed snacks like chips or cookies
• Bring your own cosmetics instead of using the shampoo samples in any accommodation
• Say no to plastic straws, plastic cups etc.
• Bring a water filter bottle , so you don’t have to buy any plastic bottles

More about reducing waste during your trip

Lost places & bunkers.

Bunkers & lost places in Albania

Bunkers everywhere in Albania

Albania – a wrap-up

Albania in three words: Byrek | canyons | trash (yes, sadly that’s one of the things that left a mark)

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You’re quite right, Albania is definitely a beautiful country worth spending time in and exploring. A road trip sounds ideal. It is a pity about the litter but hopefully that will be addressed soon.

Yeah, in my opinion a roadtrip is the perfect way to explore Albania, and especially to get off the beaten path. However, the country needs to manage their litter problem soon. Otherwise this will result in worse problems. Thanks for sharing your thoughts, Alma!

Hello! Thank you for making such a wonderful travel blog. I really appreciate this on point detailed guide. I wanna share the website https://www.holidayhare.com/country/albania I use to check info about countries, cities, weather, visa req. etc before I travel hope this helps :)

Thanks for your great feedback. I’m happy to hear that you like my content about an Albania road trip!

Hello. Thanks for the post. I want to share a website i came across, for cheaper holiday rentals, directly from local owners: https://www.rentfromlocals.al

thanks for the great article, keep up the good work

Thanks so much for your lovely comment!

Could you recommend any guided tours or travel tips for exploring the canyons and clear blue rivers in Albania?

You can find my tour recommendations within the article ;)

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Wander-Lush

The Ultimate Albania Road Trip Itinerary — From the Riviera to the Vjosa & Lake Ohrid in 2 Weeks

Looking to check-off all the Albania must-sees and still venture off the tourist trail? My alternative Albania road trip itinerary offers a perfect balance of essential and offbeat destinations over two action-packed weeks.

With affordable rentals, excellent roads and an infinite supply of awe-inspiring landscapes, picturesque villages and dynamic cities, Albania is made for a self-driving adventure.

Driving around Albania this past autumn will go down in history as one of my favourite travel experiences of all time.

Having visited Albania for the first time a few years prior and exclusively relying on public transport, I am in a unique position to compare the two experiences. I can wholeheartedly assure you that renting a car in Albania is 100% worth it – particularly if you are travelling in the shoulder or low season.

While most Albania road trip itineraries focus on the Adriatic Coast, my route ventures to underrated and lesser-travelled parts of the country, including along the Vjosa River Valley and Lake Ohrid.

A tidy loop starting and finishing in the capital, Tirana, it covers all the must-sees in central-south Albania including Berat, Himara and Gjirokaster. It travels two of the country’s most scenic stretches of road, the coastal Llogara Pass and the newly sealed road from Permet to Korca, and includes ample opportunities for adventurous detours.

For all things parking, petrol and other practicalities, see my tips for driving in Albania (coming soon).

Please note: This post contains affiliate links, meaning I may earn a commission if you make a purchase by clicking a link (at no extra cost to you). Learn more.

Transparency: Our car rental was sponsored by my long-term partners at Local Rent. All other expenses incurred during our trip were covered by us. I am solely responsible for creating this itinerary without any external input. All recommendations/criticisms are 100% my own.

Places visited on this Albania itinerary

Here is a quick summary of the main destinations on my 2-week itinerary. As you will soon see, there is a whole lot more to see and do between the major stops.

• Tirana — Albania’s fast-evolving capital city.
• Berat & Gjirokaster — twin UNESCO cities in Albania’s lush interior.
• The Albanian Riviera — beaches, canyons & a scenic drive down the Llogara Pass.
• Dhermi , Vuno & Upper Qeparo — charming Albanian villages hidden in the hills behind the beach.
• The Blue Eye — the famous natural pool between Ksamil and Gjirokaster.
• Benja & Sarandaporo — thermal springs in southeastern Albania.
• The Vjosa River — Europe’s last wild river.
• Permet — Albania’s capital of ecotourism & slow food.
• Leskovik — a hidden gem in the wine region & one of Albania’s best boutique accommodations.
• Lin — the oldest village in Europe on the Albanian side of Lake Ohrid.
• Korca — an underrated small city near the Greek border.
• Voskopoja — a village brimming with Byzantine churches.
• Butrint National Park & Apollonia — two of Albania’s premier archaeological sites.

Albania road trip route overview & map

This tried-and-tested driving route is essentially an exact replica of the road trip Ross and I did this autumn (with a few minor adjustments). It is well-paced, with only a couple of big driving days and plenty of down-time.

• Day 0: Arrive in Tirana – stay in Tirana at Konak I Skanderbeg Square
• Day 1: Lunch at Fustanella Farm – drive to Berat – stay in Berat at Josiph B&B
• Day 2: Full day in Berat & Osumi Canyon – stay at Josiph B&B
• Day 3: Visit Apollonia, Fier, Vlora & the Zvernec Islands – drive the Llogara Pass – stay in Dhermi at Roots
• Day 4: Full day in Dhermi – stay at Roots
• Day 5: Visit Vuno, Himara & Porto Palermo Castle – continue to Upper Qeparo – stay in Upper Qeparo at Villa Porta
• Day 6: Visit Saranda, Butrint NP, the Blue Eye & Field of Bunkers – stay in Gjirokaster at Jani Studio Apartments
• Day 7: Full day in Gjirokaster – stay at Jani Studio Apartments
• Day 8: Visit Tepelena & Ali Pasha’s Aqueduct – continue to Permet – walk to Leus – stay in Permet at Villa Permet or in Leus at Chri Chri Guest House
• Day 9: Visit the Benja Thermal Springs – return to Permet – stay at Villa Permet
• Day 10: Visit the Sarandaporo Thermal Springs – continue to Leskovik – stay in Leskovik at the Melesin Distillery
• Day 11: Visit Voskopoja – continue to Korca – stay in Korca at Villa Domenico or in Voskopoja at Stone Villas
• Day 12: Full day in Korca – stay at Villa Domenico
• Day 13: Visit Pogradec & the Royal Tombs of Selca – continue to Lin – stay in Lin at House 1960
• Day 14: Return to Tirana – stay in Tirana at Konak I Skanderbeg Square

How long should you spend in Tirana?

Most travellers will arrive in Albania via Tirana, where one of the country’s two international airports is located. While I have budgeted for 2 days in Tirana, you might need to add on some additional time in the capital depending on your arrival/departure schedule. I recommend doing this at the top of the itinerary.

We had enough time to spend four full days in Tirana before hitting the road. Most travellers will find 48 hours is ample time for the highlights.

You definitely do not need or want to drive in Tirana. The small spurts of city driving we did were by far the most stressful moments of our trip. Most of the city is walkable, while you can easily get to further-flung spots including Dajti Mountain and Bunk’Art using the excellent city bus network.

What about Theth, Valbona and Shkoder?

You will notice there is one glaring omission from this itinerary: the north.

The Accursed Mountains and particularly the hike from Valbona to Theth is definitely one of the highlights of Albania – and I do suggest you make time for it. Having previously visited the Alps and completed the hike in 2019, I felt no desire to go back and repeat it out of season.

My decision to leave Shkoder, Valbona and Theth out of this road trip itinerary is actually quite deliberate. You do not want to drive to these places. The windy roads in the north are the worst in the country, and a car can be a liability in the mountains.

Because Valbona-Theth is a thru trek, planning a driving route around it is very clunky. Some people choose to drive to Theth, hike to Valbona, then walk back to the car the following day. But this means skipping the Komani Lake Ferry, which is a huge mistake in my opinion. And do you really want to repeat the same hike on back to back days?

Provided it’s the right season for trekking (May to October most years, weather depending), add an additional 4-5 days for the north of Albania. It will look something like this (this is the exact plan Ross and I followed back in 2019):

• Day 1: Furgon from Tirana to Shkoder – afternoon in Shkoder – stay in Shkoder at Sweet Living Apartment
• Day 2: Transfer to Fierze – Komani Lake Ferry – afternoon in Valbona – stay in Valbona at Guesthouse Mehmeti
• Day 3: Hike to Theth – stay in Theth at Guesthouse Marashi
• Day 4 (optional): Extra day in Theth for hiking & the Blue Eye – stay in Theth at Guesthouse Marashi
• Day 5: Furgon from Theth to Tirana – afternoon in Tirana – stay in Tirana

Another option is to: 1. Drive to Shkoder from Tirana (stopping in Kruje on the way); 2. Organise to leave your car at your guesthouse; 3. Take the Komani Ferry to Valbona; 4. Do the one-way hike; 5. Return to Shkoder by bus from Theth to pick up your car. This would mean leaving your car idle for 3-4 days, which is a bit of a waste in my mind.

It is possible to take a car on the ferry, but spots are limited and from what I understand, it can be a stressful process. And again, you would have to repeat the hike twice.

The Tirana-Shkoder-Valbona-Theth route is very popular and easy to do with public transport by booking a combination bus-ferry ticket online via the official Berisha page .

Need more time on the coast?

If you are a regular reader of this blog, you will know that I am not a beach person. Growing up in Queensland either spoiled me or scarred me – or perhaps a bit of both.

I am entirely unfamiliar with Eastern European beaches (outside of Georgia and the Black Sea Coast), so when we landed on the Albanian Riviera, I was quite taken aback by the huge developments and amount of trash that’s around. This might be controversial, but I just don’t think the beaches in Albania are all that appealing.

If you do want more time on the beach, then I would recommend adding a night in Himara or Saranda between Qeparo and Gjirokaster. For a good range of restaurants and non-beach activities, Saranda would be my top choice. Parking is a bit tricky in Saranda, so be sure to choose a hotel or guesthouse with onsite parking.

What is the best time of year for an Albanian driving holiday?

Albania’s tourism star is rising, and I expect it will only get more popular in the years to come. Having visited in June/July the first time around and experienced the summer crowds, this time we chose the month of October for our road trip. It turned out to be a very wise decision.

It was still warm enough to swim, Tirana was quiet, and in the interior of the country, conditions were perfect for spending long periods outdoors.

Shoulder season (autumn or spring) is by far the best time of year for a road trip in Albania. We were able to get a great price on our rental car, had stress-free parking everywhere (including on the beaches and in all cities), and the roads were far less busy compared to summer.

One thing to consider is that the coast shuts down in the off-season. Restaurants and bars along the beach are mostly closed. On a few occasions we experienced zombie apocalypse scenes on the Riviera, where deserted bars still had liquor bottles and glasses set on the bar – as if everyone had picked up and left in a hurry.

Visiting smaller villages requires a bit more pre-planning and flexibility, as many businesses and services shut down after September. In October, we found all the accommodations we had earmarked were still accepting guests – but by November, many had closed off bookings for the year.

If you plan to add the north of Albania to your itinerary, note that the Komani Lake Ferry only runs in summer.

Where to rent a car in Albania

We used Local Rent to find our Ford Fiesta. I regularly use this platform to hire cars in Georgia , and in Albania, it was a similarly smooth process.

Local Rent differs from larger companies in that it sources cars from local agents. Prices are generally much lower – from 14 Euro a day in Albania. In October, our car cost 375 Euro for 2 weeks.

While all major agencies in Albania require a credit card in the driver’s name, Local Rent does not. ( No credit card was great news for us since we don’t have one.) There is no cash deposit required either – the only thing you pay in advance is a small online booking fee, which is refundable. The balance is settled in cash when you pick up the car.

Provided your licence meets the requirements, Local Rent agents in Albania do not require an International Driving Permit . All you need is your driving licence and ID (passport). Rules change, so for peace of mind I recommend contacting your agent in advance and asking them directly if they need an IDP.

Local Rent has a nice fleet of cars in Albania (including plenty of auto transmission options). Our small car did the job just fine, but it definitely struggled on some of the steeper roads.

You do not need a 4WD for this itinerary, but it’s not a bad idea to upgrade to a 4WD or SUV . In retrospect, I should have gone with a more robust car to tackle those hills and unexpected unpaved sections. I am still shocked that we didn’t get a single flat tire.

Use my affiliate link to search for a rental car in Albania via Local Rent .

5 quick tips for driving in Albania

1. Drive with dipped headlights at all times — Just like in Montenegro , it’s the law. This quirk definitely takes some getting used to. If you are driving an older car, my advice is to set a lights-off routine from day one to avoid a flat battery disaster.

2. Use Google Maps to navigate — Save for a few very minor glitches (mostly where new highways and bypasses had not yet been mapped), Google Maps never let us down. Pick up a local SIM card in Tirana before you set off. We had good coverage with Vodafone.

3. Don’t worry about tolls or vignettes — There is only one toll road in Albania on the A1 highway between Durres and Kosovo . Since you are not likely to be driving this way (my road trip itinerary doesn’t venture in this direction), you do not need to worry about tolls, vignettes or other permits provided you stay within Albania.

4. Carry cash for fuel & parking — Free street parking is plentiful in smaller cities and villages (especially in the shoulder/off season), but you will need cash to pay for parking in some cities and beach towns. The only place where we needed to pay for street parking was Korca. Most petrol stations are old-school and work on a cash basis. Regular gas goes by the name ‘Benzine’. Stay in the car; the attendant will do the pumping for you.

5. Relax! — For the most part, driving in Albania is an enjoyable experience. 99% of the roads we encountered were in good condition, and the local driving style is quite laid back.

The perfect 2-week Albania road trip: Detailed day-by-day itinerary

This route mostly follows state highways (SH) with a few backroad detours. As mentioned, all the major roads we drove were in near perfect condition with the exception of the road from Leskovic to Korce, which is unfinished in one section.

Approximate drive times for each leg are included in parenthesis.

This turned out to be a long post, so I have only included a couple of images for each stop. You can find plenty more photos along with detailed descriptions in my separate destination guides, linked throughout.

Day 0: Arrive in Tirana

If you’re flying into Albania, note that Tirana Airport is 30-45 minutes from the city centre. The easiest and most affordable way to get in from the airport is by using the shuttle bus. It departs every hour, on the hour, 24-7. Tickets cost 400 LEK per person and can be purchased using cash (LEK or Euro) on board. Find the full details here in my Tirana Airport arrivals guide .

Tirana Airport is small and self-explanatory. There are both ATMs and cash exchange booths inside the arrivals hall. I recommend withdrawing a small amount of local currency when you arrive, then finding an ATM in the centre that has lower fees (the cheapest we could find was the American Bank of Investment, which charges a fee of 500 LEK).

You will definitely need a local SIM card for navigating the roads in Albania. We chose Vodafone – even though the customer service was lacklustre, the price was satisfactory and coverage was good throughout our trip. We paid 2,000 LEK for 30 GB of data (valid for 30 days) plus an additional 200 LEK for the SIM. We bought ours in-store but prices at the airport appeared to be the same. Browse all packages here .

Depending on your flight schedule, you might have a full day or an evening in Tirana. I suggest spending it in the city centre, seeing the mandatory sights on Skanderbeg Square then crossing the river to the Blloku neighbourhood .

Do — Sightsee on Skanderbeg Square; visit Bunk’Art 2 Museum; climb the Pyramid of Tirana; dinner & drinks in Blloku.

Stay — Konak Skanderbeg Square offers self-contained apartments with a shared kitchen footsteps from the main square. The location is super convenient if you’re using the city bus to travel in from the airport and to the car rental office.

Further reading — My Tirana city guide .

Day 1: Tirana to Berat

• Distance covered today: 100 kilometres (62 miles)
• Time in the car today: Approx. 2.5 hours
• Recommended route: Backroad through Picall > SH A3 via Kucove

Having arrived in Tirana a few days prior, we elected to collect our rental car from the agent’s office in the city centre. This meant we didn’t have to backtrack to the airport – to get to the office, we simply jumped on a city bus. It also meant that we could get straight onto the highway without driving through the city centre – a huge plus, since traffic in Tirana is always chaotic.

As is typical of my experience with Local Rent , the hand-over was very low-key. We signed our contract, paid in cash, and gave our car – a Ford Fiesta – a quick look over before setting off.

Whenever we drive in a new country, I find it helpful to pinpoint a couple of road stops within the first 30-60 minutes. The idea is to slowly warm up and have somewhere very specific to aim for.

Leaving Tirana, we headed straight to the Lapidari 2 Viewpoint (15 mins) on the southwestern side of the city. Our aim was to get a city view without putting in the legwork – it didn’t quite pan out, though. When we arrived, we discovered the road to the viewpoint was blocked to cars. We didn’t feel like walking for 45 minutes in the heat, so we abandoned ship.

It was still a good decision in hindsight because it introduced us to a backroad that we could use to travel down to our lunch spot, Fustanella Farm. The country road was completely empty and very scenic.

Fustanella Farm (30 mins) is a gorgeous farm-to-table restaurant on the outskirts of Tirana, with a rustic outdoor dining terrace set amongst olive and fig groves. It is perfectly positioned for a lunchtime stopover on the drive to Berat.

Halfway through an incredible lunch, we got a call from the rental office informing us we had left Ross’s driving licence in their photocopy machine. So unfortunately we had to turn around and head back to the city (luckily it was only a 20-minute detour on the highway). Driving back into Tirana at peak hour was a bit of a nightmare.

If it hadn’t been for that error, we could have connected directly to the highway and reached Berat in around 1.5 hours. Having wasted more than an hour backtracking to Tirana, we had to eliminate some stops from our itinerary. If you are making good time, there are several wineries located on the way into Berat, including Kantina Edoni and Kantina Luani . We only had time for a quick walk around the park in the industrial city of Kucove , which is arranged around old smokestacks.

It was late afternoon when we finally pulled into Berat . For a memorable experience, I highly recommend staying inside the castle grounds like we did. Be sure to take the turnoff after the bus station and use Rruga Muzak Topia to approach the castle from the back side (the main road is very steep and narrow). Some of the cobbled streets inside the castle peter out and turn into impassable laneways, so stick to the main streets and park wherever you see vehicles congregating. Our guesthouse provided clear instructions in advance.

After checking in, we went for an evening wander around the castle grounds before a well-deserved Birra Korca and an easy dinner at one of the restaurants inside the castle.

Stop — Lapidari 2 viewpoint; Fustanella Farm; Kucove; Kantina Edoni or Kantina Luani wineries.

Park — Free street parking is available inside Berat Castle.

Do — Evening walk through Berat Castle; sundowners at Te Zalua; dinner at TEMI.

Stay — Bed & Breakfast Josiph inside the Berat Castle walls (night 1/2).

Day 2: Full day in Berat

There is enough to see and do in Berat to comfortably fill a full day. A huge perk of staying inside the castle is being able to step out into the most beautiful part of Berat before the mid-morning crowds arrive.

We started our morning in the castle then made our way down the hill to cover Berat’s twin neighbourhoods, Gorica and Mangalem . During the hottest part of the day we found some respite by taking the audio tour at the Onufri Museum . Then we visited a few of the Byzantine churches , and enjoyed another stunning sunset from the castle grounds.

If a full day in Berat is too much, there is an option to take your car out for a drive in the afternoon. You can backtrack to a winery, or venture in the opposite direction to Osumi Canyon , 90 minutes away. There are waterfalls and caves nearby that you can also access by car. We visited Osumi on our first trip to Albania (in summer) and thoroughly enjoyed it.

Do — Early morning walk in the castle; explore the Gorica and Mangalem Quarters; afternoon at a winery or Osumi Canyon (optional).

Stay — Bed & Breakfast Josiph (night 2/2).

Further reading — My full guide to Berat .

Day 3: Berat to the Albanian Riviera

• Distance covered today: 203 kilometres (126 miles)
• Time in the car today: Approx. 4.5 hours
• Recommended route: SH72 > SH4 > coastal road (SH8)

Despite having little interest in Albania’s beaches, we gave ourselves four full days on the Riviera with the goal of exploring the hillside villages behind the coast. If you are a beach person, three nights is ample time to get your dose of sand and sun.

Knowing we had a full day of sightseeing ahead of us, we organised to stay at the northern end of the Riviera to shave just that little bit of driving time off. The tiny village of Dhermi turned out to be one of my favourite places in Albania, with enough beach and non-beach activities to keep you occupied in any season.

Apollonia (75 mins) is a tentative UNESCO Site and the first of several Greek/Roman/Illyrian archaeological parks featured on this itinerary. In many ways I preferred it over the more-popular Butrint – you can be the judge (Butrint is coming up on day 6).

Founded in the 6th century BC, Apollonia was one of the largest settlements on the Adriatic. The thing that sets it apart (aside from its scale) is the fact that it had its own sculpture school. Thus the small museum inside the Archaeological Park is filled with incredible statues.

We set off early from Berat with the aim of arriving at Apollonia at opening time (9am during winter). The entire complex is outdoors and very spread out – it requires a fair bit of walking, so it’s best to avoid visiting during the hottest part of the day.

When preparing for this trip, I had read about an abandoned steam-power plant near the park. So we made a quick stop in the city of Fier for a hit of urbexing. A man in a reflective vest showed us around a few of the concrete carcasses and took us inside one of the abandoned cooling towers – unfortunately things went sour when he started demanding money from us for the ‘tour’. A little shaken up after his empty threats to call the police on us, we had to hotfoot it out of there.

Our next stop was a lot more vanilla. Albania’s third-largest city, Vlora (30 mins), boasts two of my favourite things: a pretty old town filled with colourful facades, and an impressive WWII memorial . We parked our car on a quiet side street and visited both on foot.

One of the main reasons I wanted to return to Albania was to spend more time around the Vjosa, one of Europe’s last wild rivers. It spills out into the Adriatic near Vlora, so I couldn’t miss the chance to see the Vjosa-Narta Delta Protected Area .

The Zvernec Islands sit in the delta’s Narta Lagoon and are the best access point if you don’t have a 4WD (if you do, off-road tracks are available on the northern side of the lagoon for birdwatching and secluded beaches). We drove the scenic road through a pine forest (approx. 30 minutes from Vlora) to the Zvernec Bridge and crossed the boardwalk over the marshes to the 13th-century St. Mary’s Monastery .

Departing Vlora, we headed south along the coast towards the Riviera proper and arrived at the Llogara Pass (45 mins) just as the light was dwindling. This 15-kilometre stretch of highway is one of the most scenic roads I have ever been on – up there with the Kotor Serpentine that we drove in Montenegro . As you crawl down the mountain, you descend into a sea of low clouds, with the Adriatic stretched out before you like a blue satin sheet.

The marked viewing platform on the highway was quite crowded, so we continued down the road a little further to the ’Big Bunker’ , a Hoxha-era monstrosity perched on the cliff. We climbed down into the bunker and got a front-row seat for sunset.

Dhermi is one of the first major villages you come to after descending the pass, so you can catch the sunset and still make it to your accommodation before dark. We did just that, arriving in time to enjoy a twilight beer on our little terrace at Roots Dhermi .

Stop — Apollonia Archaeological Park; Fier; Vlora & the Zvernec Islands; the Big Bunker & other viewpoints on the Llogara Pass.

Park — Free street parking is easy to come by in Dhermi out of season. If you see a congregation of cars near an intersection, chances are the surrounding streets are either too narrow or too steep to navigate. Follow suit and find a park where there are other cars gathered.

Do — Tour the Apollonia Archaeological Park; urbex at the Fier Kraftwerks; grab lunch in Vlora old town; walk the boardwalk to St Mary’s Monastery; drive the Llogara Pass; watch the sunset at the Big Bunker.

Stay — Roots Dhermi (night 1/2).

Day 4: Full day in Dhermi

Dhermi is split into two parts: the lower and newer Dhermi is a beach resort like any other, with bars and hotel developments cramped along a pebble shore. The older part of Dhermi, the upper village, is a world apart. All white-washed houses and cobbled lanes with a blue-domed Greek-style church belltower stealing the show, the restored village is one of the most beautiful places in Albania.

We gave ourselves a full day in Dhermi to wander the streets at sunrise and sunset, walk the historic Mills Trail down to the waterfront, and stroll along the restored promenade .

Dhermiu Beach is clean and relatively quiet, making it a good choice for swimming. Alternatively, the trailhead through Gjipe Canyon to the popular Gjipe Beach is just a 7-minute drive away in Iljas – we considered it, but decided to spend our afternoon eating tzatziki in Dhermi instead.

Food options in Dhermi are limited in the off-season. We ate our breakfasts (Italian coffee and byrek) at Barba Niko Bakery and had a nice pasta lunch directly opposite at Restorant Genti . For dinner, Sofia Bar in Dhermi serves grilled fish and a mean tzatziki. The terrace here is a prime spot for sunset.

Park — We left our car in the same spot for most of the day. To save time, we drove to the local bakery to pick up breakfast and drove into town for lunch. Street parking was easy to find on both occasions.

Do — Explore charming Dhermi; hike the Mills Trail to Dhermi Beach; lunch in Dhermi town; Gjipe Canyon & Beach (optional).

Stay — Roots Dhermi (night 2/2).

Further reading — Things to do in and around Dhermi .

Day 5: Dhermi to Upper Qeparo

• Distance covered today: 35 kilometres (22 miles)
• Time in the car today: Approx. 60 minutes
• Recommended route: SH8

Qeparo is another lovely beach town 40 minutes south of Dhermi. Its proximity to both excellent beaches and several more villages and castles makes it a convenient base.

Like Dhermi, Qeparo is split into an upper and lower village – but the difference is much more stark. Upper Qeparo has not been restored and is partially abandoned, with a good portion of its stone houses in a state of disrepair. A rare example of traditional Albanian village architecture as it was, its beauty is more the decrepit kind.

We spent two nights in Upper Qeparo, but on one of those days it was raining (good timing for us because we were due for a lazy day). An afternoon plus a morning in Qeparo is ample time to explore the village.

Day 5 of our road trip was packed with stop-overs as we hopped down to Qeparo over the course of around five hours. We arrived in Vuno (15 mins) bright and early and were the only two pairs of feet padding the stone streets under vaulted arches. The incredible St. Nicholas Church – a forgotten chapel with vivid frescoes totally exposed to the elements – was a highlight.

Himara Castle (15 mins) commands exceptional sea views and was another highlight of the Riviera for me. Cafe Butterfly inside the fortress grounds serves good coffee and sweet snacks.

We had planned to drive down to the ‘Submarine Bunker’ in Porto Palermo, but after seeing it from afar from the highway, we decided against it. As much as I would have liked to swim into the concrete tunnel, it wasn’t quite what I imagined – and the road down looked dicey.

Unfortunately we arrived to find Porto Palermo Castle (25 mins) closed on a Monday (the schedule changes in mid-October), so we flew our drone over the triangular fortification instead.

The road to Upper Qeparo (25 mins) is steep but short and fully sealed. We arrived in the village with a couple of daylight hours to spare, and spent them getting lost on the backstreets and walking through the olive groves to Ali Pasha’s Tower before settling down to a delicious dinner at Te Rrapi ne Qeparo .

Stop — Vuno; Gjipe Canyon & Beach (optional); Himare Castle; the Submarine Bunker viewpoint; Porto Palermo Castle.

Park — We parked our car at this wide crossroads at the entrance to the village. It is possible to drive deeper into the village, but we didn’t want to risk it.

Do — Wander the cobbled streets of Vuno & find St. Nicholas Church; explore Himare Castle; stop for a view of the Submarine Bunker; visit Porto Palermo Castle; afternoon stroll through Upper Qeparo; dinner at Te Rrapi ne Qeparo.

Stay — Villa Porta Qeparo .

Further reading — My guide to Old Qeparo .

Day 6: Upper Qeparo to Gjirokaster

• Distance covered today: 133 kilometres (83 miles)
• Time in the car today: Approx. 3.5 hours
• Recommended route: SH8 > SH81 > SH99 > SH4

The drive inland from Qeparo to Gjirokaster was by far the longest of our trip. I was a little concerned that we would run out of time, but we managed to fit everything in.

Bookended with an indulgent breakfast in Saranda and golden hour at the Field of Bunkers, it was a perfect day from start to finish. My only regret is not spending longer in Saranda – I really liked the city’s aesthetic – but after four days, we were more than ready to leave the beach behind.

Leaving Qeparo, we made a beeline for Saranda (60 mins) and had time for a short stroll on the waterfront before an excellent breakfast at Marini . Driving through the city during morning peak hour was a little sketchy – and it was challenging to find a park on the waterfront – so I recommend arriving as early as possible.

On the edge of Saranda, Butrint National Park is Albania’s most-visited attraction and oldest UNESCO Site. I had high expectations and to be completely honest, I found Butrint a bit disappointing. The Roman Forum was much smaller than I had imagined, and the floor that was previously flooded has been covered over. The museum was excellent, but having a guard shadow us the entire time to enforce a no-photo policy really detracted from the experience.

Most disappointingly of all, the baptistry mosaics pictured on every tourist brochure were completely covered in sand (later in the trip we would encounter the same thing in Lin). I had no idea this was standard practice – surely it’s possible to build a roof or insert a horizontal screen and project an image of the mosaics onto it?

The highlight of Butrint for me was the scenery and walking trails along the water.

If we had more time, we could have explored Ksamil and its beaches and islands, or used the car ferry outside the archaeological park to access the Venetian Triangle Castle . Instead, we drove back through Saranda and headed east to start our journey towards Lake Ohrid on the opposite side of the country.

You need a solid two hours minimum to visit the Blue Eye or Syri i Kaltër (40 mins), a 164-feet-deep sinkhole enveloped in azure pools and lush forest. Though it is undeniably beautiful, I found it over-commercialised – the concrete road you have to walk to get there is an eyesore. I’m glad we went, but I don’t consider it an essential stop.

After driving another 30 minutes towards Gjirokaster, we got up close and personal with some of Albania’s concrete mushrooms at the Field of Bunkers (30 mins). There are a dozen or more bunkers of all shapes and sizes dotted around the field alongside a quarry – many have their original door mechanisms intact, and some are big enough to walk inside. Don’t follow Google Maps – take this turn-off instead.

There is an option to stop at the nearby Hadrianoplis Theatre , but the non-road requires a 4WD (or at least something more robust than a Fiesta).

We arrived in Gjirokaster (30 mins) ahead of schedule and enjoyed a local dinner near our accommodation in the new part of the city. Gjirokaster was a breeze to navigate, and we had no issue finding a spot to leave the car.

Stop — Saranda; Butrint National Park; Ksamil (optional); the Blue Eye; Field of Bunkers.

Park — Free street parking is available in Gjirokaster. We parked in the small lot attached to our apartment complex.

Do — Eat breakfast at Marini in Saranda; tour Butrint Archaeological Park; visit the Blue Eye; photograph the Field of Bunkers; dinner in Gjirokaster.

Stay — Jani Studio Apartments (night 1/2).

Day 7: Full day in Gjirokaster

Gjirokaster might be my favourite city in Albania. Like Berat, it has a historic ‘core’ that is protected under a shared 2005 UNESCO listing. Personally I prefer it over Berat – I adore the Old Bazaar area, and Gjirokaster has a greater variety of things to see and do.

We spent our day in Gjirokaster revisiting old favourites and ticking off a few things we missed the first time around. I highly recommend getting an early start and wandering the Old Bazaar just after dawn . The Obelisk is a must-visit for panoramic views.

My highlights of Gjirokaster were touring the Cold War Tunnel , eating traditional oshaf fig pudding for breakfast, and going inside the magnificent Zekate House before walking the backroads to Gjirokaster Castle .

We waited out the warmest part of the day inside the Ethnographic Museum . Alternatively, you can stretch your legs on the 2-ish kilometre hike through town to Ali Pasha’s Bridge . We did it on our first visit to Gjirokaster – it has since become quite popular. (Tomorrow there is a more spectacular Ottoman-era aqueduct to see outside of Tepelena.)

We finished the day with a feast at Restorant Pajtimi , a humble local joint outside the tourist hub. Their version of tave kosi (Albania’s national dish of lamb baked in yogurt) was the best I had.

Do — Take an early morning stroll in the Gjirokaster Bazaar; tour the Cold War Tunnel; walk to Ali Pasha’s Bridge; visit Gjirokaster Castle for sunset; dinner at Restorant Pajtimi.

Stay — Jani Studio Apartments (night 2/2).

Further reading — 10 things to do in Gjirokaster .

Day 8: Gjirokaster to Permet

• Distance covered today: 84 kilometres (52 miles)
• Time in the car today: Approx. 2 hours
• Recommended route: SH4 > backroad towards Bence > SH75

Pressing east from Gjirokaster we entered the most exciting phrase of our Albania itinerary. From this point on, it was all new territory for us (with the exception of Korca, which we had visited twice before) – and we were finally getting a glimpse of the Vjosa River, which was a major inspiration for the trip.

Permet on the Vjosa is a small city with huge potential. It is the self-appointed nucleus of Albania’s emerging Slow Food movement, with half a dozen or more restaurants that respect the philosophy. It is also a burgeoning ecotourism destination, with hiking and mountain biking trails popping up along the river and in the nearby Fir of Hotova National Park.

We were happy with our decision to stay in Permet for two nights – I loved the town’s aesthetic, and it meant we could try more restaurants (we managed five in total!). On our first night, we treated ourselves to a suite at Villa Permet . It was fabulous. On our second night, we moved to Guest House Shtepia ime .

On the way to Permet, we stopped at Ujë Ftoht Cafe (30 mins) for coffee and plate of Albanian pancakes with local honey. The lovely location on the Drinos River would be perfect for summer – in October it was a bit blustery.

We soon arrived in Tepelena (10 mins), birthplace of the legendary Ali Pasha of Ioannina, whose footprint is all over Albania and the Balkans . Tepelena Castle was not at all what we were expecting (I won’t spoil it for you). There is some very interesting Soviet-esque architecture in the centre of town.

Tepelena has a dark past as the site of an internment camp where an estimated 3,000 people were imprisoned during the communist era, around 500 of whom never saw freedom again. There are plans to turn this camp and the notorious Spac Prison into museums ; for now the site remains partially abandoned. I got the chills just seeing it from afar and did not want to go any further.

Ali Pasha’s Aqueduct is a short 10-minute detour from Tepelena via a scenic mountain road and was one of my favourite road stops. An incredible feat of Ottoman engineering, it was still used to irrigate fields up until a few years ago. The aqueduct has been partially reconstructed and a walking path built to access it from the highway. If you have time, a new marked hiking trail starts from behind the aqueduct.

We spent a good half hour photographing the aqueduct from different angles as the sun started to peek above the mountains, casting awesome shadows. Knowing we had a hike of sorts coming up later that day, we continued down to Permet (60 mins) and checked into our first hotel.

In the afternoon we embarked on the hike from Permet to Leus , a small village above the town. It’s only a 30-minute walk, but the steep incline and rough terrain makes it feel a lot longer.

When we arrived, we were elated to find a group of Chinese tourists and their guide, who was weidling a giant key, gathered in front of Leus Orthodox Church . It meant that our slog up wasn’t in vain – we were going to be able to see the interior. Painted from the rafters to the floor, with inlay wood ceilings and a mezzanine level you can climb to get closer to the dome, this is by far the most beautiful church I have seen in my life. I am not a particularly religious person, but it was nothing short of a transcendental experience.

Still buzzing from our holy encounter, we spent another half hour wandering around Leus between haystacks and sweet cottages.

As wonderful as Villa Permet was, my biggest regret of the trip was not booking a night at Chri Chri Guest House in Leus (I tried, but they were sold out). It would have been wonderful to stay overnight in the tiny village, and I bet the owner can organise a visit to the church. Transfers are available from Permet for those who don’t have a 4WD.

Stop — Ujë Ftoht Cafe; Tepelena Castle; Ali Pasha’s Aqueduct.

Park — Free street parking is easy to find in Permet.

Do — Breakfast at Ujë Ftoht Cafe; walk through Tepelena Castle; visit Ali Pasha’s Aqueduct; hike to the Orthodox Church of Leus from Permet.

Stay — Villa Permet or Guest House Shtepia ime in Permet or Chri Chri Guest House in Leus (night 1/2).

Day 9: Full day in Permet + Benja Thermal Springs

• Distance covered today: 14 kilometres (7 miles)
• Recommended route: SH75 > Benja Road

If it’s the season, then you could spend a day mountain biking on one of the newly marked trails around Permet or rafting on the Vjosa River . There is an information booth in the centre of town where you can hire bikes and inquire about river expeditions.

We didn’t have the best weather, so we spent the morning wandering the flagstone paths through Permet Old Town , browsing the cute antique shops – and most importantly, eating local cuisine . Of the half a dozen Slow Food restaurants in Permet that we managed to fit in, Bar Restaurant Trifilia was my favourite.

The drizzle had cleared by the afternoon so we made our way to the Benja Thermal Springs , a 30-minute drive away on the fringe of Fir of Hotova National Park. Set in the spectacular Langarica Canyon beneath the arched Ottoman-era Kadiut Bridge, there are seven separate pools fed by different mineral waters. It was reasonably crowded on an October afternoon, but I still enjoyed the experience. More secluded swimming spots can be found by trekking deeper into the canyon via the riverbank – but alas, we didn’t have the right footwear.

In the evening, we scaled the staircase to the top of Guri i Qytetit , a giant rock dropped in the centre of Permet, ahead of a satisfying dinner and glass of house wine at Te Culi Slow Food .

Do — Soak in the Benja Thermal Springs & hike through the gorge; explore Permet town; eat at Permet’s Slow Food restaurants.

Stay — Villa Permet or Guest House Shtepia ime in Permet or Chri Chri Guest House in Leus (night 2/2).

Further reading — My guide to Permet (coming soon).

Day 10: Permet to Leskovik

• Distance covered today: 54 kilometres (34 miles)
• Recommended route: SH75 > SH80 > backroad to Sarandaporo > SH65

Today’s drive was the most anticipated of the trip – but of course we woke up to torrential rain. The clouds petered out as the day went on, but a heavy fog followed us all the way to Leskovik. I still managed to snap a few photos of the Vjosa River Bend (30 mins) and of an abandoned bridge wrapped in fall foliage.

This time last year, Leskovik was not at all on the tourist trail. The tiny town in one of Albania’s most prestigious wine regions is still a bit of an obscure choice – the main reason we picked it was to break up the longest drive of the trip from Permet to Korca.

As it turned out, Leskovik is a very interesting place. When Enver Hoxha was in charge, Mavrud wines and raki from Leskovik were earmarked exclusively for him and the party elite. The mineral-rich soils here yield spectacular grapes, and even though the wine industry is a fraction of the size it once was, you can still see vast vineyards wrapped around the imposing limestone massif as you wind your way into the town.

Named after that rock, Melesin Distillery is a new boutique hotel that is putting Leskovik back on the map. We splurged on a night here and didn’t regret it one bit – it was the best accommodation of our trip. The restaurant is top notch, serving local dishes alongside Leskovik wine and gin distilled in-house.

We spent the afternoon exploring Leskovik and made a brilliant ‘discovery’ when we stumbled on a set of bunkers with military diagrams painted on the walls. The town is very small and can be covered on foot in the space of an hour.

If the weather is on your side, then I suggest stopping at the Sarandaporo Thermal Springs on the way into Leskovik. (We backtracked to the springs the following morning.) A local alternative to Benja, Sarandaporo is located right on the Greek border. At one point we inadvertently wandered across the state line. Whoops.

Crafted from stone blocks, the baths sit high above the river and are fed with bubbling sulfuric waters. The location is nothing short of spectacular. We were concerned about the road, but it turns out a freshly sealed road has been installed – part of the way, at least. We had to drive for around 10 minutes over gravel then walk another 30 minutes along the riverbed to find the springs. It was certainly an adventure.

Stop — Vjosa River Bend Viewpoint; abandoned bridge; Sarandaporo Thermal Springs.

Park — Free parking is available in front of Melesin Distillery.

Do — Stop for photos of the Vjosa river bend & abandoned bridge; swim in the Sarandaporo Thermal Springs; gin tasting & dinner at Melesin Distillery.

Stay — Melesin Distillery .

Further reading — My guide to Leskovik .

Day 11: Leskovik to Korca/Voskopoja

• Distance covered today: 85 kilometres (53 miles) (or 105 kilometres to Voskopoja)
• Time in the car today: Approx. 3.5 hours (or 4 hours to Voskopoja)
• Recommended route: SH75

Day 11 was the longest drive of the trip, mostly because of the road conditions. Construction on this highway has been ongoing since summer. Once complete, it will shorten the drive time considerably.

As it currently stands, the worst section of road is around Barmash. Mostly compacted gravel, it’s far from the worst road I’ve seen,  but it is bumpy and slow going. After Erseke, it is all smooth sailing over a freshly tarred highway.

Unsure of just how long the drive to Korca would take, we were very selective with our stops and only made quick photo breaks in Barmash and Erseke for the war memorials. We planned to visit the Kamenica Tumulus Archaeological Museum , but like most museums in Albania, it was closed on a Monday.

Unperturbed and grateful to be nearing our destination well before sunset, we continued to Voskopoja, a small village 30 minutes outside of Korca.

Voskopoja is famed for its high concentration of Orthodox churches that date back to the 18th century when it was one of the biggest cities in the Balkans and a centre of Aromanian culture . We only managed to see two of the half a dozen churches we had bookmarked – the rest were closed for restoration and covered in scaffolding (please do take this into consideration when planning a trip; works are not expected to be completed before summer 2024). Of course there was no information anywhere online about the closures.

We did manage to get inside the 1751 Profet Ilia Monastery , which almost redeemed Voskopoja with its sunset magical-ness.

Overall though, Voskopoja was a let down – not only because of the churches being closed, but also because the whole place had a slightly off-putting, almost fake feel to it. After visiting so many lovely villages earlier in the trip, Voskopoja just didn’t do it for me.

I recommend staying in Korca for two nights and potentially adding a half-day trip to the village if you’re desperate to see the churches.

Stop — Various WWII memorials; Kamenica Tumulus Archaeological Museum.

Park — In Voskopoja, park at your guesthouse or on the street. In Korca, you must pay to park in the city centre (find a spot, and an attendant will come and find you to exchange cash for a paper ticket that you should display on your windshield).

Do — Kamenica Tumulus Archaeological Museum (optional); Voskopoja (if staying in Korca).

Stay — Villa Domenico (Korca) or Stone Villas (Voskopoja).

Day 12: Full day in Korca

Less than 40 kilometres from the border with Greece, Korca is completely unique among Albania’s cities. Long a stronghold of education and culture, it has its own unique character and – not surprisingly – a strong Greek vibe.

This was our third visit to Korca. We first came here back in 2019 on our way overland to Thessaloniki , and on this trip, we entered Albania via Korca in a taxi from Kastoria .

Between the restored Old Bazaar and the many excellent museums, Korca has enough points of interest for one day. Don’t miss the National Museum of Medieval Art or the Birra Korca Brewery , a delightful beer garden serving Albania’s oldest brew.

This time around we joined the Free Walking Tour of Korca . It is quite casual and fun, and for an introduction and orientation, it’s a good way to spend a couple of hours. Other highlights were eating lakror, a giant pie that is Korca’s specialty dish, at Shija e Saçit , hiking to the Martyrs Cemetery , Varrezat e Dëshmorëve, at sunset, and driving up to the Kryqi Moravë viewpoint just after sunrise.

Do — Climb the Panoramic Tower; visit the National Museum of Medieval Art; walk in the old town & Old Bazaar; drive to the War Memorial & church viewpoint; beers at the Birra Korca brewery.

Stay — Villa Domenico .

Further reading — My Korca city guide .

Day 13: Korca to Lin (Lake Ohrid)

• Distance covered today: 107 kilometres (66 miles)
• Time in the car today: Approx. 3 hours
• Recommended route: SH3 via Sovjan

Having visited the North Macedonian side of Lake Ohrid (and the eponymous Ohrid) back in 2019, I was quite keen to see how the ‘other side’ of the lake compared. We ended up spending two nights in the area, staying in Pogradec (the biggest Albanian city on the lake) and in the cute village of Lin further north.

My conclusion: Albanian Ohrid is sparser and feels more threadbare. While you could happily spend a week in Ohrid city (like we did), Pogradec by comparison is small and a bit dated. You only need to spend one night on the lake – and it should definitely be in Lin.

Pogradec is a quick 50-minute drive from Korca via Sovjan. If you are so inclined, stop off to grab a coffee or breakfast, walk the waterfront promenade, and peek at the old houses in Toplec Quarter ( around this point ).

Another 20 minutes and you will reach Lin , which is everything Pogradec is not (sorry, Pogradec!). Now believed to be the oldest continuously inhabited village in Europe, it boasts Paleo Christian mosaics and Albania’s most photogenic bunker . Like Dhermi, Lin is another small village of cobbled streets and vernacular architecture that was made for wandering.

An hour or so away from Lin, the Royal Tombs of Selca date back to the days of the Illyrian Kingdom and were carved from the rocky terrain between the 4th and 1st centuries BC. Though not at all compulsory, the tombs are an adventure – and the rural location is quite spectacular. On the way, we stopped for the Ottoman-era Golikut Bridge , one of the loveliest stone bridges in Albania.

It is faster and easier to access the tombs from Lin (rather than Pogradec). Presently there are roadworks in this area, which makes it difficult to locate the correct road. Follow the sealed bitumen road as far as you can, past the bridge, turn left onto the new road, then continue along the concrete path.

Despite it being a tentative UNESCO Site, there is next to no signage for the tombs. We parked our car near the lone sign board then took a guess that the tombs would be located on top of the hill – we were right, thankfully. To find them, follow the concrete stairs to the top. The first few tombs are nice, but the most impressive ones are located around the corner.

Back in Lin, we checked into our delightful room at House 1960 , put in our dinner order, and explored the village on foot. The caretaker unveiled a corner of the Lin Mosaic for us (like in Butrint, it is covered in sand for posterity), then we hiked out onto the peninsula to see the bunker caught between the glassy lake and a stormy sky.

Stop — Pogradec; Golikut Bridge; the Royal Tombs of Selca.

Park — Lin village is tiny and parking is very difficult. House 1960 has a designated lot, but it only fits a couple of cars. Be sure to mention that you are driving so that hosts Merita and Emri can save you a spot.

Do — Stroll the waterfront in Pogradec & see the old town; stop at the Golikut Bridge; explore the Royal Tombs of Selca; peek at the Lin Mosaic; hike the peninsular for sunset from the Lin Bunker; fish dinner at House 1960.

Stay — House 1960 .

Further reading — My full guide to visiting Lin .

Day 14: Return to Tirana

• Distance covered today: 106 kilometres (66 miles)
• Recommended route: SH3 via Elbasan

Waking up in Lin on the final morning of our road trip, we took one last walk down to the lakefront and greeted a trio of fishermen just as they were bringing in their haul. In under three hours we would be back in busy Tirana – so we savoured every last vignette of village life.

From Ohrid Lake, it is a straight shot along the highway back to Tirana via Elbasan. We had arranged to return our car in the late afternoon so we paced ourselves with a couple of stops here and there. The city of Elbasan (90 mins) looked interesting and I would have liked to have a proper walk around – maybe next time.

The road between Tirana and Lin follows the communist-era railroad that once connected all of Albania, but has long since been abandoned. Inspired by this guide , we stopped at the impressive Bushtrica Bridge and did a bit of urbexing at the abandoned train station in Xhyre . We also stopped in Perrenjas to photograph the industrial complex that has been decorated with ladybug murals.

Google Maps routed us back into Tirana via the same highway we had left on. We knew exactly where to go to get back to the rental office. Returning the car took less than five minutes, then we jumped a bus back to the city centre. We had enough time for an afternoon walk in the city and dinner in Blloku before flying out the following afternoon back to Kutaisi .

Stop — Lin viewpoint; Perrenjas street art; Xhyre abandoned railway station & bridge; Elbasan (optional).

Do — Early morning walk in Lin to greet the fishermen; stop at the Lin viewpoint; explore the abandoned train station and bridges around Xhyre; lunch in Elbasan (optional); return your car; afternoon walk in Tirana; dinner in Blloku.

Stay — Konak Skanderbeg Square is a self-contained apartment with a shared kitchen. We chose it because of its proximity to the square – it was easy to get to by bus from the rental car office, and easy to get away using the airport bus that also departs from the square ( more information about getting back to Tirana Airport in this guide ).

Albania Travel Guide

Discover insider tips, itinerary inspiration, and all the best things to see, do and experience in Albania!

Albania Essentials

My favourite resources and tools for planning a trip to Albania.

Find affordable flights to Albania

Book city tours & day trips

Hire a car in Albania

Get a visa for Albania

Find the perfect accommodation

Order the latest Lonely Planet

More from Albania

• 21 awesome things to do in Albania
• The perfect Albania itinerary
• 22 essential travel tips for Albania
• One day itinerary for Tirana
• Guide to the Valbona Theth hike
• Things to do in Gjirokaster
• Things to do in Berat
• Things to do in Korca
• Best beaches in Albania
• How to visit the Albania Blue Eyes
• 21 best things to do in Albania
• 22 useful travel tips for Albania
• Where to stay in Tirana

Planning a trip to North Macedonia and Albania this summer, and your guides are (as always) amazing and such a plethora of ideas! Thank you from a Swedish reader

Thanks so much, Ulrika! Two of my favourite countries in the region. I hope you have a wonderful trip!

What an informative article. I have not visited Albania, but it is high on my list. This will make planning and decisions much easier.

Thank you for all your helpful travel information.

Sylvia Short USA

Thanks Sylvia, I hope you get a chance to visit Albania soon!

Thank you so much for all of those information !!! it will really help me. I read that you need to have a 4×4 to drive around in permet, because of the road, but you look fine in the fiesta? was there a disclosure in the car location that you have to stay in paved road? thank you sooo much!!!

Hi Magali – that was probably true this time last year, but in summer they redid all the roads. Apart from the short section that I mention, it is completely new and sealed. The unsealed part is still a road, it’s just a bit rough. We had to take it slow, but we had no issues at all with our small car.

What a wonderful description of your trip. It’s so detailed and beats many well-known guidebooks. Having visited Albania it brought back memories. I look forward to reading about other journeys. Bravo and thank you so much.

Thanks so much Tony! It was an incredible trip!

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Albania Travel Guide

Last Updated: December 23, 2023

Albania is one of Europe’s best-kept secrets. Though it increases in popularity each year, the country is largely ignored by tourists; many still think of it as a post-communist backwater (as if the world hasn’t changed in the last 30 years).

Yet this is a land of untouched natural beauty, with a rich history dating back to the ancient Illyrians and Greeks. It has become a solid favorite of backpackers looking for an affordable, off-the-beaten-path destination to explore.

I absolutely loved my time visiting Albania. It’s a country full of good food and welcoming people. I enjoyed it so much that I extended my stay.

Hikers and nature lovers can partake of all the hiking and trekking here, beach lovers have the Albanian Riviera along the Ionian coast, and history buffs can marvel at the country’s uncrowded UNESCO sites in Butrint (an ancient Roman city), Berat, and Gjirokastër.

Albania is on the up and up, with more tourists visiting each year. I think it will become as popular (and expensive) as Croatia in the next couple of years, so visit now before the crowds come!

This travel guide to Albania can help you plan your trip, save money, and make the most of your time in this underrated destination!

Table of Contents

• Things to See and Do
• Typical Costs
• Suggested Budget
• Money-Saving Tips
• Where to Stay
• How to Get Around
• How to Stay Safe
• Best Places to Book Your Trip
• Related Blogs on Albania

Top 5 Things to See and Do in Albania

1. Explore Tirana

Albania’s capital is rapidly transforming into a vibrant, cosmopolitan city, with its bustling cafes, eclectic museums, and trendy shops and galleries. Sip coffee at one of many espresso bars, dive into the developing digital nomad scene, soak up history in Skanderbeg Square, and enjoy the city’s booming nightlife. For a hefty dose of local culture, check out Bunk’Art, a former bunker built during the Cold War that’s since been turned into an interactive art space. If you’re in town for more than a couple of days, take the Dajti Ekspres to the top of the nearby mountain, check out the cave of Pellumbas, or go and explore the Roman and Byzantine ruins in nearby Durrës.

2. Visit the historic town of Berat

A city that’s been around for 2,400 years, Berat is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the highlights of visiting Albania . It’s also known as “the City of a Thousand Windows” because of its unique white-walled Ottoman homes, picturesquely stacked atop one another on a crumbling hillside and characterized by their many windows. Visitors should make it a point to wander around Kala, an ancient neighborhood with panoramic views, historic mosques and churches, and a 14th-century castle. There are also a number of noteworthy museums in Berat, including the Ethnographic Museum, which is housed in an ornate 18th-century Ottoman home.

3. Drive the Llogara Pass

The Llogara Pass is a steep (at times the incline is 11%), winding road that rises over a thousand meters (3,500 feet) into the mountains and overlooks the glittering Ionian coast, which has been nicknamed the Albanian Riviera. This road goes from Orikum to Dhërmi, and there are lots of scenic stops along the way. If you need to stretch your legs, the trails at Llogara Pass National Park are a fantastic place to do so. Post-hike, grab lunch at one of the many roadside restaurants in the park. Though it used to be a dangerous and narrow road, the Llogara Pass was repaved in 2009. It’s still a tricky route, but it’s worth it — this is the most scenic drive in the country (and one of the most scenic drives in all of Europe).

4. Hike from Valbona to Theth

T of the most famous day hikes in Albania, this is an old mule trail that leads you across the Accursed Mountains. This section is moderately challenging and takes around eight hours in total. There are fresh water springs along the way, as well as some cafes on the route, but make sure you bring plenty of water just in case. It’s a stunning area with an abundance of flora, fauna, and wildlife to see. In Theth, there are some other hikes as well. Most notably, the Blue Eye of Theth is a shockingly blue pool of water fed by a small waterfall that can be reached in about three hours (one way) from Theth.

Also protected by UNESCO, Gjirokastër is famous for its stonework. Wander the cobblestone streets, hike and explore the castle, swim in nearby waterfalls, and visit the best examples of Ottoman-era architecture in the area. There’s a C old W ar museum here that’s housed in an old 800-meter-long (2,624-foot) bunker from the 1970’s. Close to the nearby village of Muzinë is the incredible natural spring called the Blue Eye. Gjirokastër, for me, is one of the best spots in the country.

Other Things to See and Do in Albania

1. relax on the albanian riviera.

Pristine beaches, turquoise water, cheap and delicious seafood — the Albanian coast has all the beauty and wonders of Croatia, without the high prices and crowds (for now). Dhërmi and Ksamil are considered to have the best beaches in the country, with miles of white, sandy beachfront. If you want a busier beach destination, go to Himarë, where the beach has a promenade lined with cafés and bars. For something more off the beaten path, make your way to Gjipe Beach. For a bustling, developed beach town, visit Sarandë, which is packed with hotels, restaurants, and nightlife.

2. Enjoy the view from Rozafa Castle

Situated near Shkodër in northwestern Albania, the 4th-century Rozafa Castle has panoramic views of the area, including the Buna and Drin Rivers. The fortifications here originally date to the 10th century BCE, when the Illyrians lived in the area (the current castle replaced those fortifications). Legend has it that a young woman sacrificed her life to imbue the castle walls with longevity. There isn’t a whole lot to see here, but the ruins are impressive, and it’s a good spot from which to watch the sunset. The Shkodër History Museum provides a great overview of the castle’s past, including the background of the medieval families who lived here. Admission is 150 ALL.

3. Visit the National Museum of History

The National Museum of History in Tirana offers a view of the country’s rich history and is divided into eight sections: antiquity, the Middle Ages, the Renaissance, independence, iconography, the National Liberation Anti-Fascism War, the Communist Terror, and Mother Teresa (who was born in Albania). There’s a remarkable collection of ancient Greek and Roman mosaics, columns, and statues unearthed in Albania as well. The collection is extensive, so give yourself around three hours here. Handily, nearly the entire collection is signed in English. Admission is 500 ALL.

4. Explore the ancient ruins of Butrint

Greeks from nearby Corfu settled Butrint in the 6th century BCE. It quickly became a large trading city that was still prosperous when the Romans took over in 167 BCE. Nowadays, you can wander the pathways between what’s left of the city, including well-preserved arches and colonnades. In 2003, Butrint was awarded UNESCO World Heritage status. It makes for an ideal day trip from Sarandë. I took my time there and spent about three hours exploring the ruins. The entrance fee is 700 ALL and the 45-minute bus ride costs 100 ALL.

5. Admire the art at Bunk’Art

Bunk’Art 1 and 2 are former bunkers that have been turned into museums and galleries underneath Tirana. Built in the 1970s for Albania’s elite, the bunkers’ 100 rooms have now been transformed into a museum and art space. Bunk’Art 1, located on the outskirts of Tirana, focuses on Albania’s communist past and the lives of average people under communism. Bunk’Art 2, the more recent addition, is located right in Tirana; it focuses more on the secret police that were used by the regime to terrorize the population and maintain order. Admission is 500 ALL.

6. See the ancient ruins at Apollonia

Like Butrint, Apollonia was one of the most important cities in the ancient world. The Greeks founded it in 588 BCE, and it fast grew into a city-state with a huge slave trade (just like Butrint). The Romans took over in 229 BCE, when it became a cultural center with an important philosophy school. Even Julius Caesar sent his nephew (Octavius, who became Emperor Augustus) to study there. Today you can visit the ruins (a UNESCO Heritage Site), which include a theater and the restored façade of the administrative center. Admission is 300 ALL.

7. Visit Shkodër

As the largest town in the north (and home to the Rozafa Castle), it plays host to many of the country’s biggest festivals like Carnival, Lake Day, and the Shkodra Jazz Festival. The city’s Old Town is filled with picturesque, pastel-colored homes and buildings. A lot of people breeze through Shkodër on their way to Montenegro from Tirana, but I recommend spending a day or two here. Check out one of the interesting museums here, like the Marubi National Photography Museum and the Site of Witness & Memory Museum. The former is an Albanian photographic museum; the latter commemorates the victims of the communist regime in the city. e to get to Valbonë. If you don’t want to do that, there are day trips available. You can spend a couple of hours on the lake before going up the Shala River, where you can eat lunch, rent a kayak, or chill on the “beach” (the rocky embankment). The mountain water of the Shala is super clear and clean; it looks almost tropical. The restaurants here also rent rooms (or let you camp for free) if you want to stay the night.

9. Go hiking

Albania has lots of incredibly scenic hikes. If you spend most of your time in the south, you’ll get your pick of coastal hikes along the Ionian Sea, including Mount Çika and through the Ceraunian Mountains. In the north, the hike over the Valbona Pass to the village of Theth is popular for a reason; it’s an incredibly beautiful route (and not for the faint of heart). Routes around the country vary in length and difficulty and trekking information isn’t readily available — large parts of these hikes are still undeveloped, so hire a guide if you want to explore. Outdoor Albania has lots of options to help you get started.

10. Take a wine tour

Albania has one of the oldest winemaking traditions in all of Europe. Albanian wine makes use of incredibly rare grapes, and some of the traditional practices date back to the Bronze Age. Many wineries are family-owned and located in breathtaking settings. You can take wine tours from Berat, Lezhë, and Tirana, on which you can sample some of the country’s finest. Expect to pay at least 6,500 ALL for a day trip.

11. Get spooked at Sazan

The “ghost” island of Sazan is a 30-minute boat ride from the southern port town of Vlorë. It served as a Soviet military base and chemical weapons facility for many years before being abandoned. In 2017, the government opened it for tourism, although officially it remains a military base. The rooms in this vast network of nuclear bunkers and tunnels are still stocked with beds and kitchen supplies, and you can still find abandoned gas masks in the valley nearby. Tours don’t run all the time, so you need to ask in the tourist information office in Vlorë. They can book you onto a tour if they are running. Expect to pay 3,500 ALL or more for a day tour to the island.

12. Hike Osumi Canyon

This gorgeous river canyon in southern Albania makes for the perfect day trip from Berat. It is over three million years old, stretches for 40 kilometers (25 miles), and towers 40 meters (131 feet) above the river. The most popular way to see it up close is with a rafting tour. Tours are available February-June and start at 7,000 ALL per person, which includes transportation from Berat, lunch, and 2-4 hours on the water. You can also opt to hike down through the canyon and explore the ancient rock formations and caves via a 12-kilometer trail.

13. Visit the House of Leaves

The Museum of Secret Surveillance, aka the House of Leaves, is an award-winning museum in Tirana located in the old Sigurimi building (the Sigurimi were the secret police). The building was originally used by the Gestapo during the German occupation, continuing as a base of operations for the secret police until 1991. The exhibitions highlight what life was like under German and then communist rule, shedding light on the methods used to spy on, prosecute, and execute enemies of the regime. It’s sobering but incredibly insightful. Anyone even remotely interested in the dark side of Albania’s past will find this museum fascinating. Admission is 700 ALL.

Albania Travel Costs

Budget hotels can be as cheap as 2,500 ALL per night for a double or twin with a private bathroom and A/C. More realistically, expect to pay around 3,500 ALL or more per night. Most hotels offer a fairly large breakfast, too.

Airbnb is a great budget option here. Private rooms start at 1,800 ALL per night although they average about 3,600 ALL. Expect to pay at least 5,800 ALL for a full apartment or home. Prices double when not booked in advance.

For anyone traveling with a tent, camping is available around the country, and it is perfectly legal to wild camp (i.e., pitch your tent anywhere on public land). If you prefer sticking to campsites, prices are usually around 1,200 ALL per night for a basic plot for two people and a tent without electricity.

Food – Like its Mediterranean neighbors, Albanian cuisine relies heavily on fish, olive oil, and local produce (especially onions). Breakfast is usually bread, cheese, and yogurt. Lunch is the biggest meal of the day. Meat stew, grilled sausage, meat pies, and fresh salads are some of the more traditional dishes. Beef, trout, calamari, and sea bass are all popular staples. Goulash is also popular, though mostly in the mountain regions. Some of the most popular must-try dishes in Albania include byrek (a salty pie with various fillings) and speca me gjize, a dish of stuffed peppers. Wash it all down with tea or raki, a traditional alcoholic beverage.

For a meal at a sit-down restaurant, expect to pay 500-700 ALL for an appetizer, wine, and main course. For a really “nice” restaurant (or maybe one serving fish or sushi), you’re likely to spend 1,400-2,000 ALL. The most expensive meal I had in Albania was at this high-end fish restaurant in Tirana — it cost me 3,500 ALL, which is only $31 USD. That included fish, oysters, and wine!

Pizza starts at 550 ALL, while non-European food like Indian, Thai, or Chinese food costs around 600-900 ALL for a main dish. Fast food (think McDonald’s) costs around 600 ALL for a combo meal.

Expect to pay around 150 ALL for a beer, 150-250 ALL for a glass of wine, 70 ALL for a bottle of water, and 140 ALL for a coffee.

If you are planning to cook your own food, a week’s worth of groceries cost 2,500-3,500 ALL. This gets you basic staples like pasta, rice, vegetables, and some meat.

Backpacking Albania Suggested Budgets

If you are backpacking Albania, expect to spend about 4,400 ALL per day. This budget covers a hostel dorm, cooking your meals, limiting your drinking, using public transportation to get around, and sticking to free and cheap activities like hiking and free tours. If you plan on drinking a lot (Sarandë and Tirana are big party spots), add another 500-1,000 ALL to your daily budget.

On a mid-range budget of around 9,000 ALL per day, you can stay in a private hostel room or private Airbnb, eat out for most meals, enjoy a few drinks at the bar, see more museums and palaces, do a day trip or two, and take the occasional taxi to get around.

On a “luxury” budget of around 15,000 ALL per day, you can stay in a hotel, eat out for all your meals, see all the sites you want, do lots of day tours, and take taxis where you want. This is just the ground floor for luxury. The sky’s the limit!

You can use the chart below to get some idea of how much you need to budget daily, depending on your travel style. Keep in mind these are daily averages — some days you’ll spend more, some days you’ll spend less (you might spend less every day). We just want to give you a general idea of how to make your budget. Prices are in ALL.

Albania Travel Guide: Money-Saving Tips

Albania is an affordable country to visit. You’ll be hard-pressed to spend a lot of money, even if you’re staying in private rooms or hotels. You really have to go out of your way to spend money here. But, if you are looking to travel cheap, here are some tips on how to save money :

• Take a free walking tour – Tirana Free Tour offers a free walking tour that highlights the city and its sites. There are also free walking tours in Berat and Shokdër. Just be sure to tip your guide at the end!
• Cook your own meals – Many hostels here include kitchen facilities, so if you want to save money, cook your own meals. Groceries are cheap here and there are a lot of farmer’s markets around where you can pick up fresh produce.
• Stay with a local – Staying with a local via Couchsurfing is a great way to save money and connect with a knowledgeable local who can share their insider tips and advice.
• Bunk up in a hostel – Hostels in Albania are cheap, especially if you book a shared room.
• Walk everywhere – Most towns and cities in Albania are walkable, so skip the public transportation and taxis to save money.
• Enjoy the outdoors – There are plenty of free hiking trails and outdoor activities around the country that can fill your days.
• Take advantage of wild camping – As it is legal to camp anywhere in Albania, traveling with a tent, or in a camper van, is the perfect way to save money on accommodation.
• Bring a water bottle – The tap water here usually isn’t safe to drink, so bring a reusable water bottle to save money and reduce your plastic use. LifeStraw is my go-to brand, as their bottles have built-in filters to ensure that your water is always clean and safe.

Where to Stay in Albania

You won’t find many hostels outside of the main tourist cities, but private guest houses are pretty cheap in the countryside anyway. Here are some of my favorite places to stay in Albania:

• Trip’n’Hostel (Tirana)
• Friends Hostel (Gjirokastër)
• Himara Relax Hostel (Himarë)
• The Wanderer’s Hostel (Shokder)
• Saranda Backpackers (Sarandë)

How to Get Around Albania

Public transportation – In most towns and cities, almost everywhere is accessible on foot. Otherwise, take the bus. The fares cost around 40 ALL per ride.

To get from the airport to Tirana, the cheapest way is via the airport shuttle. It runs from 6am until 6pm and drops you off near the National Museum of Tirana. It costs 400 ALL (one-way) and takes around 30 minutes. Alternatively, you can take a taxi for around 2,500 ALL.

Taxi – Taxis are readily available in all the major cities. Expect to pay 300 ALL to turn on the meter plus another 300 ALL for every kilometer. A lot of taxis will try to quote you a price instead of using the meter, which is almost always overly inflated. Make sure they put on the meter to avoid getting ripped off.

Train – Albania has a small rail network, but I never saw or heard of anyone taking it. The locals I talked to say it is too unreliable and slow. Buses are much faster, cheaper, and more reliable so use them instead.

Bus – Buses are the main form of inter-transportation in the country. They loosely follow a timetable. From major cities and starting points, they tend to leave on time but after that don’t count on it. But getting to your destination? Add an hour buffer just to be safe. The roads are always jammed and aren’t in great shape, so on-time arrivals are rare.

Buses cost from 300 ALL to over 1,000 ALL depending on how far you go. A bus from Sarandë to Tirana takes about 5 hours and costs about 1,700 ALL, while Berat to Tirana costs about 400 ALL and takes under three hours. The two-hour journey from Vlorë to Berat is around 400 ALL.

Pre-booking is never necessary. Just show up at the bus station and grab your ticket.

Car Rental – Car rentals start at 1,500 ALL per day. The roads are in bad shape, so be sure to drive carefully. Drivers need an International Driving Permit (IDP) to rent a car here.For the best car rental prices, use Discover Cars .

When to Go to Albania

Albania has a Mediterranean climate, which means super-hot summers (July-August), with a daily temperature averaging over 32°C (90°F), mild winters on the coast, and cold winters in the mountains (November-February).

The best time to visit Albania is during the spring (May-June) or fall (September-October). During this time, the weather is mild, with average daily temperatures around 21°C (70°F), making it perfect for hiking and other outdoor activities.

Of course, if you want to enjoy Albania’s incredible coastline, the best time to come is during the summer. Albania is not yet a huge tourism draw in Europe, so it is rare to find sites and attractions overly crowded, and prices don’t inflate much during peak season. It’s sweltering at that time of year, however, so come prepared for hot weather!

Those who want to get the most bang for their buck should plan to travel during the off season, from November to March. Prices are at their cheapest — though it must be said that the weather can get very cold. If you’re visiting the coastal areas, don’t expect to be able to swim.

How to Stay Safe in Albania

Albania is generally a safe country to visit. Violent crime is rare but petty crime can be an issue so don’t flaunt your possessions and always make sure your valuables are out of reach while on crowded buses.

Solo female travelers should generally feel safe here, however, the standard precautions apply (never leave your drink unattended at the bar, never walk home alone intoxicated, etc.).

If you’re using public transportation in Tirana, pickpocketing can be a concern, as in most other urban areas around the world. Never set down valuable items; keep them tucked away out of sight.

Locals are really proud of their country, and Albanian culture has a long tradition of guest hospitality. Moreover, Albania is a “nighttime” country (i.e., people stay out late), so there are always eyes and ears out, keeping would-be criminals in check. (Many of the women I met there told me they feel very safe walking around at night for that reason.)

The main danger in Albania is reckless driving. Albania has some of the highest road fatality rates per capita in all of Europe, so be sure to pay extra attention when driving or while walking near busy roads.

Near the border with Kosovo, landmines can still be found. Avoid hiking off the marked trails there, and keep an eye out for signs and warnings.

Scams aren’t super common, but they do occur. You can read about common travel scams to avoid here .

If you experience an emergency, dial 112 for assistance.

The most important piece of advice I can offer is to purchase good travel insurance. This protects you against illness, injury, theft, and cancellations . It’s comprehensive protection in case anything goes wrong. I never go on a trip without it, as I’ve had to use it many times in the past. You can use the widget below to find the policy right for you:

Albania Travel Guide: The Best Booking Resources

These are my favorite companies to use when I travel. They consistently have the best deals, offer world-class customer service and great value, and overall, are better than their competitors. They are the companies I use the most and are always the starting point in my search for travel deals.

• Skyscanner – Skyscanner is my favorite flight search engine. They search small websites and budget airlines that larger search sites tend to miss. They are hands down the number one place to start.
• Hostelworld – This is the best hostel accommodation site out there with the largest inventory, best search interface, and widest availability.
• Booking.com – The best all around booking site that constantly provides the cheapest and lowest rates. They have the widest selection of budget accommodation. In all my tests, they’ve always had the cheapest rates out of all the booking websites.
• HostelPass – This new card gives you up to 20% off hostels throughout Europe. It’s a great way to save money. They’re constantly adding new hostels too. I’ve always wanted something like this and glad it finallt exists.
• Get Your Guide – Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace for tours and excursions. They have tons of tour options available in cities all around the world, including everything from cooking classes, walking tours, street art lessons, and more!
• The Man in Seat 61 – This website is the ultimate guide to train travel anywhere in the world. They have the most comprehensive information on routes, times, prices, and train conditions. If you are planning a long train journey or some epic train trip, consult this site.
• Rome2Rio – This website allows you to see how to get from point A to point B the best and cheapest way possible. It will give you all the bus, train, plane, or boat routes that can get you there as well as how much they cost.
• FlixBus – Flixbus has routes between 20 European countries with prices starting as low 5 EUR! Their buses include WiFi, electrical outlets, a free checked bag.
• SafetyWing – Safety Wing offers convenient and affordable plans tailored to digital nomads and long-term travelers. They have cheap monthly plans, great customer service, and an easy-to-use claims process that makes it perfect for those on the road.
• LifeStraw – My go-to company for reusable water bottles with built-in filters so you can ensure your drinking water is always clean and safe.
• Unbound Merino – They make lightweight, durable, easy-to-clean travel clothing.
• Top Travel Credit Cards – Points are the best way to cut down travel expenses. Here’s my favorite point earning credit cards so you can get free travel!

Albania Travel Guide: Related Articles

Want more info? Check out all the articles I’ve written on backpacking/traveling Europe and continue planning your trip:

The 6 Best Hotels in Copenhagen

The 6 Best Hotels in Florence

The 7 Best Hotels in Madrid

The 6 Best Hotels in Vienna

The Best Walking Tours in Barcelona

How to Be a Digital Nomad in Europe

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• Where To Stay
• Transportation
• Booking Resources
• Related Blogs

Your full Wanderlust guide to Albania

Albania is the secret Mediterranean. Closed off for decades following its Communist years, it has escaped the mass development of other chunks of the Med, so Albania's beaches remain largely resort-free. Times are a-changing, however. You will now find decent accommodation in most towns. You'll also find some fascinating sites: castles dot the countryside, old bunkers lay on the beaches and lakes beckon to watersports' lovers (try Lake Shkodër, in the country's north-west, or Lake Ohrid, shared with Macedonia). Also, some pretty untramelled paths wind across the country, 70% of which is mountainous, so hikers will be spoiled for choice. Capital Tirana is a fun find too: visit the interesting museums then head to a cafe in the buzzing Blloku district for a strong dark coffee and a chance to people-watch in this resurging nation.

• Capital city: Tirana
• Population: 2.9 milluon
• Money: Albanian Lek
• Int dialing code: + 00355
• Languages: Albanian
• Visas: UK citizens can stay in Albania for upto 90 days without a Visa
• Voltage: 230V
• Time: GMT+1

Top Travel Tips For Aleria

• As in Greece, a shake of the head means “yes” and a nod “no”.
• Albanians are very hospitable and you may well be offered coffee, sweets etc. It is good manners to accept – and to offer to share anything you have.
• If travelling around by public transport, or going off the beaten track, it may be worth taking some hand gel and toilet paper.

Things to do in Albania

8 things you must do in Tirana, Albania

3 mins sam baker.

Trekking in Albania

Albania's wild, wild east

Wanderlust recommends.

• Track down the   Communist-era buildings   and monuments (not many remain), starting in Tirana’s Skanderberg Square.
• Step back in time in the   historical towns   of Kruja, Durres, Gjirokastra and Berati.
• Trek in the   rugged untouched mountains , home to wolves and bears. Or, if you have limited time, take the cable car up Mount Dajti for amazing views of Tirana.
• Wander the   magnificent archeological site of Butrint , where you will find Roman, Ottoman, Byzantine, Venetian and Illyrian remains all cheek by jowl, and in a beautiful and tranquil setting.
• The 'ghost' island of   Sazan , near Vlora, opened to the public in 2015. There are plans for sympathetic development of the former military base, eg a research centre, but for now enjoy the derelict buildings, nuclear shelters and wildlife without any crowds

When to go Albania

Albania has a   Mediterranean climate   with hot summers, mild winters in coastal regions, but cold winters including snow in the mountains. Spring and autumn are best for sightseeing and walking.

Getting around Albania

Albania's   roads are in very poor condition . Buses and minibuses ( furgons ) are cheap and plentiful. Minibuses will only usually run once they are full.

There are three train lines, but the   trains are so excruciatingly slow   that most people don’t use them. There are plenty of taxis in the towns.

Albania accommodation

There are a growing number of hotels of all standards, although only a handful of deluxe ones. The   price is not necessarily an indicator of standard . Check whether breakfast is included.

Albanian food & drink

Albanian cuisine is generally very good, with a   mix of Balkan, Turkish and Mediterranean influences . Everything is seasonal and organic, so is full of flavour. Lamb and fish are very good, and seafood is excellent along the coast. Vegetarians will fare well, especially in the autumn when there is a huge range of produce.

Albanian wine is very good   and excellent value. Raki is widely drunk, as well as other local liqueurs and brandies. Italian and Greek beers are more widely available than local brands.

There is a   huge coffee culture , with Turkish coffee drunk at home (and always offered to visitors) and Italian coffees in restaurants.

Health and safety in Albania

Albania is a very safe country for visitors; the biggest hazard is probably the appalling driving. However, there are some desperately poor people so   don’t flaunt your possessions   and take the usual commonsense precautions against petty theft and muggings. 

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2 Day Guide to Vlora: Explore the Albanian Riviera

Vlora (aka Vlorë in Albanian) marks the northernmost point of the Albanian Riviera. There’s something unique about Vlora’s beaches that are unlike any of the other beaches on the Riviera – but I’ll get into that later. For now all you need to know is that in this guide you’ll learn about things to do in Vlora as well as discover a detailed 2 day Vlora itinerary.

Although Vlora is not necessarily a “fan favourite” destination in Albania, I certainly think it warrants a visit. I thoroughly enjoyed my time in Vlora and I think you will too!

Skip Ahead:

How to get to vlora.

• Where to stay in Vlora
• Tips for visiting Vlora

Things to do in Vlora

• 2 day Vlora itinerary

As you read this post, please consider clicking the links throughout . These are affiliate links which means when you book a hotel or purchase a product, I make a small commission at no additional cost to you ( full disclosure ). These commissions fund The Holistic Backpacker and help me write more blog posts.

Thank you for supporting my work!

Quick Albania Travel Guide:

Currency : Albanian LEK (aka ALL). This is a closed currency so you’ll need to wait until you’re in Albania to exchange $.

Transportation : to enter the country you can find 1 international airport in Tirana, 1 port in Saranda (daily ferry arrivals/departures to Corfu, Greece), and a bus line from Montenegro. Buses are very cheap here, but unreliable. Driving is chaotic, I’d recommend sticking to buses. There are no trains within the country.

Phone : purchase a local SIM card from Vodafone – the plans are cheap and they include lots of data, however international minutes are typically not available.

Language : Albanian, however you can get by with English. Google translate is recommended for smaller cities/villages.

Helpful Info : don’t drink the tap water or bring a purifying bottle like this one . Bring an international travel adapter , and notify your bank before travelling.

Travel Insurance : ALWAYS purchase reliable travel insurance prior to any trip. This insurance is trusted by backpackers and adventure sport enthusiasts around the world, however here are a few more insurance company suggestions .

Purchase my Albania map which is downloadable to google maps on your phone. It has 200+ pinned locations around the country – all available at your fingertips.

Albania is one of the last “undiscovered” countries in Europe. Plan your trip while prices & tourism levels are low!

Downloadable Map of Albania

I’ve created a map of Albania equipped with 200+ pinned locations including:

• Hiking trails, national parks, caves, waterfalls & beaches
• Historical, cultural & religious sites
• Lodging options, restaurant recommendations & transit hubs
• Main points of interest, big cities, beach towns and mountain villages

Each pin has photos, a description, direct booking links, and external itineraries (when applicable).

The map is downloadable to Google Maps on your phone and was designed to be a digital tour guide when you’re on-the-go.

This map has all of Albania’s best and will save you loads of pre-travel research time.

Related Articles:

• 18 Helpful Tips You Should Know BEFORE Travelling Albania
• 30+ Best Things to do in Albania: Excursions, Tours, and Destinations
• 17 Best Places in Albania
• Backpacker’s Guide to the Best Hostels in Albania
• Hiker’s Guide to the Albanian Alps
• 10 Reasons to Visit the Shala River aka the “Thailand of Albania”

The best way to travel within Albania if you don’t have a car is by bus. In saying this though, I must warn that the bus system here is quite unreliable! You won’t find updated timetables online and you certainly won’t be able to use google maps to search for a bus route.

You won’t have issues getting to Vlora from any city in Albania, however you will have to rely on local knowledge to get you here. By this I mean don’t be afraid to ask your hotel or hostel employees for bus information. They’ll know better than anyone where the bus will come and at what time.

Where to Stay in Vlora

Lucky for you (and me) Albania is a super cheap country to travel! Albania hasn’t been subjected to Schengen inflation which means going out to eat or paying for accommodations is totally affordable; if you’re a hostel-er, you can get a dorm for 10 euros/night. That’s cheaper than my daily rent back home in Canada !

When I visited Vlora I stayed at Vlora Backpackers . The hostel itself isn’t anything special however the owner is fabulous ! He’s super helpful and he has excellent recommendations for things to do in Vlora. The vibe of the hostel was also quite social and relaxed, PLUS they had the cutest little puppies!

Alternatively if you’re looking for something mid-range, and more private than a hostel, you can check out Deluxe Apartment or Hotel Artisti .

If you’re looking for a little razzle dazzle, Hotel Aross and the Maritim Resort are the fanciest of the fancy 5 star hotels in Vlora.

None of these options float your boat? You can browse all accommodation in Vlora here .

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Tips for Visiting Vlora

• Plan to stay a minimum of 2 nights to make sure you check all the things to do in Vlora off your bucket list.
• If you’re looking to travel to the beaches in and around Vlora, you can rent a scooter to get around.
• Honestly, in some parts of Vlora the city looks quite sketchy; lots of trash, run-down buildings, etc. You’ll discover that this is just part of Albania’s “charm” though. Vlora and the rest of Albania are surprisingly safe, despite what they may look like!
• You can’t drink the tap water – bottled water only here.

1. Cruise the Karaburun Peninsula to Sazan Island

This is by far the best thing to do in Vlora, and the thing to do in Vlora that inspired my trip!

There are plenty of boat trips that depart Vlora and venture over to the Karaburun Peninsula and Sazan Island. Along the way you’ll come across caves and private beaches. Oftentimes the boat drivers are also quite flexible and will allow you to customize the day’s itinerary!

You can book the Vlora boat trip to the Karaburun Peninsula and Sazan Island here .

2. Visit Vlora Old Town

The Vlora Old Town is the perfect place to grab breakfast or dinner in Vlora. The colourful buildings in the daytime and the sparkly twinkle lights in the evening make for the perfect location to grab a meal or a drink.

Vlora Old Town is located approximately a 40 minute walk from Vlora’s main strip.

3. Swim at the Local Beaches

Vlora has a nice, long beach front right in the center of town. You have the option of spreading out your own towel or the option to rent a beach chair owned by one of the local resorts.

As I preluded to there being something “special” about the beaches in Vlora, you may be asking what that “special” something is. The answer is sand! The vast majority of beaches along the Albanian Riviera are covered in smooth rocks, however Vlora’s beaches (as well as the Ksamil beaches near Saranda in the south) have sand!

If you ask your local hotel or hostel employees they can make recommendations for beaches nearby where you can find a little more peace and quiet along the shore as well as flamingos!

4. Try Paragliding

If you’re searching for an activity that offers a little more adrenaline, you can add paragliding to the list of things to do in Vlora.

5. Grab a Cone

One of my favourite things to do in Vlora is soak up the ice cream scene. Along the coast you’ll find multiple massive ice cream shops with big patios and lots of other food options. During the day these ice cream shops are totally empty, but at night they’re filled.

6. Sunset Swim

If you’re in Vlora you’ll have to go for a sunset swim. The location of Vlora plus the sandy beaches create the perfect scene for swimming and sunset strolling.

7. Go for a Sunset Xhiro

Xhiro translates to “walk” in English and this “walk” is a beloved Albanian pastime. Every night in Albania – no matter where you are – you’ll find that local Albanians emerge from their homes as the sun sets. They go for a slow cruise around town, grab a drink at the local patios, and enjoy friendly conversation.

I’ve come to  loooove  the Albanian patio/xhiro vibe. It’s the perfect way to wind down from a busy day and engage in local culture.

Vlora, as well as the other coastal cities in Albania like Saranda and Himara , have excellent xhiro vibes. The music, patio culture, and seaside location add up to culminate the perfect place for an evening xhiro.

8. Drive Llogara Pass

Llogara Pass is a high mountain pass (peak elevation of 1,043m) within the Ceraunian Mountains. The pass is 31.5kms long and features some sharp turns and steep grades.

From the pass you’ll have a beautiful view of the Albanian Riviera as well as the surrounding mountains (which, by the way, are impressively large).

To drive Llogara Pass you’ll want to leave from Vlora and head south toward Himara . If you’re using public transportation to go south ( Himara or Saranda ), fear not! The bus will drive along this windy mountain road, so you certainly don’t have to worry about missing those picture-perfect Llogara views.

Another way to experience Llogara Pass is to rent a scooter .

9. Hike Caesar’s Path

If you’re hoping to get out and see more of the beautiful nature in nearby Llogara National Park, you can add a hike on Caesar’s Path to your list of things to do in Vlora.

10. Take a Walking Tour

If you’re looking to get your bearings and learn the history of Vlora you can also sign up for a walking tour.

You can book the Vlora walking tour here .

2 Day Vlora Itinerary

Day 1 in vlora.

To start off your first day in Vlora you’ll want to check into your accommodations. I recommend either Vlora Backpackers or Hotel Aross .

After checking in, head on down to the main strip beside the sea and browse the restaurants for breakfast/lunch.

Now, choose your adventure! If you want a chill day, feel free to lounge on the city’s beaches. If you’re looking for a little more peace and quiet (and potentially flamingos) rent a bike and cycle to the nearby beaches. The owner at Vlora Backpackers has some excellent recommendations for nearby beaches as well as cheap bike rentals!

Alternatively if you’re looking for a little more adventure, you could try paragliding .

Make sure you’re on the beach to watch the phenomenal sunset and go for a swim. Then freshen up at your hotel and return to the main strip for xhiro and dinner at one of the many patios in Vlora. This is the time of day when you’ll really see Vlora come to life!

Day 2 in Vlora

On day 2 in Vlora plan to wake up early and set sail! Today you’ll be boarding a boat and cruising along the Karaburun Peninsula . Depending on the tour you book, you can expect to visit private beaches, caves, and Sazan Island itself. If you’re lucky, your tour guide will take you on a quick hike through an old military base on Sazan Island too.

When you return to Vlora you’ll want to head back to your accommodations, change clothes, and walk to the Old Town for a quaint and delicious dinner on the patio.

Happy adventuring!

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About The Author

HI, I’m Taylor – the voice behind The Holistic Backpacker.

After moving to Banff National Park in 2020 I became an outdoor adventure enthusiast and vowed to never stop exploring.

I now spend my days travelling the world, climbing mountains, and spending nights under the stars in the Canadian Rockies backcountry.

I created The Holistic Backpacker so I could share my adventures and help connect people like you with the same amazing experiences.

GET TO KNOW ME | WORK WITH ME

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• Hiking trails, national parks, beaches, caves, & waterfalls 
• Historical, cultural, & religious sites 
• Lodging options, restaurant recommendations, & transit hubs
• Main points of interest, big cities, beach towns, & mountain villages

This map acts as a digital tour guide & was designed with the intention of saving you pre-travel research time!

Update April 12, 2024

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Travel.state.gov, congressional liaison, special issuance agency, u.s. passports, international travel, intercountry adoption, international parental child abduction, records and authentications, popular links, travel advisories, mytravelgov, stay connected, legal resources, legal information, info for u.s. law enforcement, replace or certify documents.

Before You Go

Learn About Your Destination

While Abroad

Emergencies

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Travel Advisory July 26, 2023

Albania - level 2: exercise increased caution.

Reissued with obsolete COVID-19 page links removed.

Exercise increased caution in Albania due to crime .

Country Summary : Law enforcement’s ability to protect and assist travelers is limited in some areas, especially in remote regions. There has been targeted violence associated with illicit drug networks and organized crime countrywide. Travelers should remain aware of their surroundings and the extent of police and emergency services in their area.

Read the  country information page for additional information to Albania.

If you decide to travel to Albania:

• Enroll in the  Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP) to receive Alerts and make it easier to locate you in an emergency.
• Follow the Department of State on  Facebook  and  Twitter .
• Review the  Country Security Report  for Albania.
• Visit the CDC page for the latest Travel Health Information related to your travel. 
• Prepare a contingency plan for emergency situations. Review the  Traveler’s Checklist .

Embassy Messages

View Alerts and Messages Archive

Quick Facts

At least three months from the date of arrival

One page required for entry stamp

Not required for U.S. citizens. If you are a U.S. citizen and intend to stay more than one year in Albania, you will need to apply for a residency permit. residency permit .

A yellow fever vaccination certificate is required for travelers aged 1 year or over arriving from countries with risk of yellow fever transmission. A list of those countries can be found by visiting the World Health Organization (WHO) .

1,000,000 lekë (approximately $9,500 USD, though the rate can fluctuate) or equivalent.

1,000,000 lekë (approximately $9,500 USD , though the rate can fluctuate) or equivalent. For more information you can visit Albanian Customs website .

Embassies and Consulates

U.s. embassy tirana.

Rruga Stavro Vinjau, 14 Tirana, Albania Telephone:  +(355) (0) 4-2247-285 Emergency After-Hours Telephone:  +(355) (0) 4-2247-285 Fax:  +(355) (0) 4-2374-957; +(355) (0) 4-2232-222 Email:   [email protected]

Destination Description

Learn about the U.S. relationship to countries around the world.

Entry, Exit and Visa Requirements

There are no COVID-related entry requirements for U.S. citizens.

Visit the  Embassy of Albania’s website  for the most current visa information.

• Your passport should be valid for at least three months from the date of your arrival.
• You may enter the Republic of Albania as a tourist without a visa. 
• U.S. citizens may stay up to one year in Albania without applying for a residency permit. If you wish to stay in Albania longer than one year, you may apply for a residency permit once you enter the country. For more information on residency permits in Albania, please see the Embassy  website . Prospective residents or those wishing to remain in Albania for longer than one year or who intend to work or study must apply for a residency permit at the office of the Regional Directorate of Border and Migration Police with jurisdiction over their place of residence.

The U.S. Department of State is unaware of any HIV/AIDS entry restrictions for visitors to or foreign residents of Albania.

Find information on  dual nationality ,  prevention of international child abduction  and  customs regulations  on our websites.

Safety and Security

Terrorism:  Some terrorist groups and those inspired by such organizations are intent on attacking U.S. citizens abroad. Terrorists are increasingly using less sophisticated methods of attack – including knives, firearms, and vehicles – to more effectively target crowds. Frequently, their aim is unprotected or vulnerable targets, such as:

• High-profile public events (sporting contests, political rallies, demonstrations, holiday events, celebratory gatherings, etc.)
• Hotels, clubs, and restaurants frequented by tourists
• Places of worship
• Shopping malls and markets
• Public transportation systems (including subways, buses, trains, and scheduled commercial flights)

For more information, see our Terrorism page.

Crime: Credit card fraud is common in Albania, and you should exercise caution by not letting your card out of sight when making a transaction. Visitors need to be very careful when using ATMs. Be alert for strangers looking over your shoulders at the PIN number, and also for any interference with the machine itself that could indicate a camera or card scanner that steals your details when you scan your card.

Carjacking is rare in Albania, but vehicle theft may occur. Make sure your vehicle is locked and keep your possessions well hidden in the trunk.

Recent crime statistics indicate a decrease in numerous violent crime categories to include attempted murder, robberies by force and armed robberies. Street crime is common in urban areas, predominantly at night. The most notable are burglaries, theft, and domestic violence claims.

Attacks using small improvised explosive devices and targeting individuals in contentious disputes have occurred. Remain vigilant when parking in unattended parking areas, avoid parking overnight in non-secure areas, and inspect vehicles for suspicious items. If you find something strange, do not tamper with it and contact the Albanian Police immediately.

Law enforcement’s ability to protect and assist travelers is limited in some areas, especially in remote regions. There has been targeted violence associated with illicit drug networks and organized crime countrywide. Travelers should remain aware of their surroundings and the extent of police and emergency services in their area.

Demonstrations  occur frequently.  They may take place in response to political or economic issues, on politically significant holidays, and during international events. 

• Even demonstrations intended to be peaceful can turn confrontational and possibly become violent. 
• Avoid areas around protests and demonstrations. 
• Check local media for updates and traffic advisories.

International Financial Scams:  See the  Department of State  and the  FBI   pages for information.

Victims of Crime: Report crimes to the local police by dialing 112 and contact the U.S. Embassy at +(355) 4 224 7285. Remember that local authorities are responsible for investigating and prosecuting the crime.  U.S. citizen victims of sexual assault are encouraged to contact the U.S. Embassy.

See our webpage on help for  U.S. victims of crime overseas .

The Embassy may be able to assist crime victims with the following:

• Help you find appropriate medical care
• Assist you in reporting a crime to the police
• Contact relatives or friends with your written consent
• Provide general information regarding the victim’s role during the local investigation and following its conclusion
• Provide a list of local attorneys
• Provide our information on  victim’s compensation programs in the U.S .
• Provide an emergency loan for repatriation to the United States and/or limited medical support in cases of destitution
• Replace a stolen or lost passport

Domestic Violence:  U.S. citizen victims of domestic violence may contact the Embassy for assistance.

Tourism:  The tourism industry is regulated, but rules may be unevenly enforced. Hazardous areas/activities are not always identified with appropriate signage. Professional and certified staff may not be available to support some organized activities. In the event of an injury, access to appropriate medical treatment may be sporadic due to limited hours or physical distances. Outside metropolitan areas, it may take more time to reach first responders or medical professionals who can stabilize a patient and provide life-saving assistance. U.S. citizens are encouraged to purchase medical evacuation insurance. See our webpage for more  information on insurance providers for overseas coverage .

Local Laws & Special Circumstances

Criminal Penalties: You are subject to local laws. If you violate local laws, even unknowingly, you may be fined, arrested, imprisoned, or deported. 

Furthermore, some laws are also prosecutable in the U.S., regardless of local law. For examples, see our website on  crimes against minors abroad  and the  Department of Justice  website.

Arrest Notification:  If you are arrested or detained, ask police to notify the U.S. Embassy immediately. See our  webpage  for further information.

Counterfeit and Pirated Goods: Although counterfeit and pirated goods are prevalent in many countries, they may still be illegal according to local laws.  You may have to pay fines or give up such goods if you bring them back to the United States. In Albania, the import and export of goods that infringe on intellectual property rights is prohibited by law . See the U.S. Department of Justice website for more information.

Special Circumstances:

• Albania's customs authorities enforce strict regulations concerning import or export of particular items from Albania, including weapons, endangered wild fauna and flora, and narcotics, among others. Contact the  Embassy of Albania  in Washington, D.C. in the United States for  customs requirements .
• Albanian law allows for dual citizenship. Albanian citizenship may be acquired at birth in certain instances, including if the child has one Albanian citizen parent and other circumstances are met. The Ministry of Internal Affairs, Department of Citizenship, handles citizenship issues. Foreigners can submit the requirements for obtaining citizenship to Albanian embassies abroad or to the regional police in the district they reside in Albania. For full details, please visit the website for the Agency for the Delivery of Integrated Services Albania: https://www.adisa.gov.al/albanian-citizenship/ .
• Albania is a cash economy. Credit card acceptance is limited but ATMs are widely available in cities.
• Sporadic blackouts throughout the country can affect food storage capabilities.
• Tap water is not safe to drink. Air pollution is also a problem throughout Albania, particularly in Tirana.
• Establishing a business in Albania has been made easier through the establishment of the National Business Center, as a single one-stop shop for providing business registration and licensing services. These administrative services are done through simple electronic procedures, in a short time and with symbolic tariffs.

Faith-Based Travelers:  See our following webpages for details:

• Faith-Based Travel Information
• International Religious Freedom Report – see country reports
• Human Rights Report – see country reports
• Best Practices for Volunteering Abroad

LGBTI Travelers:  There are no legal restrictions on same-sex sexual relations or the organization of LGBTI events in Albania. Albanian law does not permit same-sex marriage and does not legally recognize other countries’ same-sex marriage certificates. The government does not prosecute or discriminate against same-sex relationships. Same-sex married couples cannot apply for family residency permits, but they may register individually. Despite the law and the government’s formal support for LGBTI rights, homophobic attitudes remain.

See   our  LGBTQI+ Travel Information   page and section 6 of our  Human Rights report  for further details.

Travelers with Disabilities:  The law in Albania prohibits discrimination against persons with physical, intellectual, or mental disabilities, and the law is enforced. Social acceptance of persons with disabilities in public is not as prevalent as in the United States. The most common types of accessibility may include accessible facilities in newer buildings. Many public buildings remain inaccessible. Expect accessibility to be limited in public transportation, lodging, communication/information, and general infrastructure. Outside of Tirana, accessibility is limited. Aids, equipment, and devices, and rental, repair, or replacement services, have limited availability. Service providers, such as sign language interpreters or personal assistants, have limited availability. Contact the Albanian Disability Rights Foundation for more information.

Students:  See our  Students Abroad  page and  FBI travel tips .

Women Travelers:  See our travel tips for  Women Travelers .

For emergency services in Albania, dial 112 for an ambulance. Dial 127 or 128 for the Fire Department. Not all operators have English, or may have limited ability in English, but will attempt to connect you with an English-speaking responder when possible.

Ambulance services are not widely available and the training and availability of emergency responders may be below U.S. standards.

We do not pay medical bills.  Be aware that U.S. Medicare/Medicaid does not apply overseas. Most hospitals and doctors overseas do not accept U.S. health insurance.

Medical Insurance:  Make sure your health insurance plan provides coverage overseas. Most care providers overseas only accept cash payments. Visit the  U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention  for more information on type of insurance you should consider before you travel overseas.

We strongly recommend you obtain  supplemental insurance  to cover medical evacuation.

Vaccinations: Be up-to-date on all  vaccinations  recommended by the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention for visitors to Albania.

Further health information:

• World Health Organization
• U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention  (CDC)

Air Quality : Visit AirNow Department of State for information on air quality at U.S. Embassies and Consulates.  Air quality varies throughout Albania. Pollution can be a problem particularly in Tirana, and during certain times of year – such as winter, when wood or coal may be burned for heat.

Health Facilities:  The U.S. Embassy maintains information on doctors and hospitals  here . We do not endorse or recommend any specific medical provider or clinic.

• Adequate health facilities are available in Tirana and other cities but health care in rural areas may be below U.S. standards.
• Public medical clinics lack many basic resources and supplies.
• Hospitals and doctors often require payment “up front” prior to service or admission. Credit card payment is not always accepted.
• Private hospitals usually require advance payment or proof of adequate insurance before admitting a patient.
• Medical staff may not speak English.
• Generally, public hospitals are minimally staff overnight in non-emergency wards. Consider hiring a private nurse or having family spend the night with the patient, especially a minor child.
• Patients bear all costs for transfer to or between hospitals.
• Psychological and psychiatric services are limited, even in cities, with hospital-based care only available through government institutions.

Pharmaceuticals:     

Always carry your prescription medication in original packaging, along with your doctor’s prescription. Albanian law prohibits the import and export of narcotic medications and psychotropic substances. For more information, visit the General Directorate of Customs website .

Exercise caution when purchasing medication overseas In Albania, while many medicines are available without a prescription, certain pharmaceuticals may require a prescription from a physician and are sold only at specialized pharmacies. Some medications may not be available locally. Medication should be purchased in consultation with a medical professional and from reputable establishments recommended by a physician.

U.S. Customs and Border Protection and the Food and Drug Administration are responsible for rules governing the transport of medication back to the United States. Medication purchased abroad must meet their requirements to be legally brought back into the United States. Medication should be for personal use and must be approved for usage in the United States. Please visit the  U.S. Customs and Border Protection  and the  Food and Drug Administration  websites for more information.

Assisted Reproductive Technology and Surrogacy : If you are considering traveling to Albania to have a child through use of assisted reproductive technology (ART) or surrogacy, please see our  ART and Surrogacy Abroad page .

Water Quality:  Tap water is not potable. Bottled water and beverages are safe, although many restaurants and hotels may serve tap water unless bottled water is specifically requested. Be aware that ice for drinks may be made using tap water.  

Adventure Travel:  Visit the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention website for more information about  Adventure Travel .

Travel and Transportation

Driving conditions in Albanian can differ significantly from those in the United States. Reckless driving is common. Many drivers do not pay attention to traffic regulations, signals, lane markings, pedestrians, or other drivers. The number of fatalities from traffic accidents is high compared to other European countries. Road conditions vary and are especially poor in rural areas in winter months and during inclement weather. Older sections of the roadway system are poorly lit. Minor traffic disputes can quickly escalate, especially as some motorists could be armed.

• All international driving permits (IDP) issued under the 1949 Geneva Convention are accepted. An international driving permit can only be used for one year. If you wish to drive in Albania for more than one year, you must apply for an Albanian license.
• In Albania,  driving is on the right-hand side of the road . Everyone in the vehicle must wear a seat belt. Mobile phones can be used while driving, but only with a hands-free set. Third-party insurance is required.
• Be aware emergency response services are inadequate. First responders have limited medical training and equipment. Accident victims are often transported to the nearest hospital in the car of a passerby.
• Do not travel at night. Travel outside of urban areas is particularly dangerous.
• Fuel and repair services are common in populated areas, but there is no formal roadside assistance. Tires and replacement parts may not be available.

Traffic Laws:  You may be asked to show your passport in addition to a U.S. or international driver’s license if stopped. Police should provide you with a written ticket citing any fine issued. While procedures may vary by district, you should not generally pay fines directly to police officers; these will be collected at a local police precinct or court.

• If you have an accident, do not move your car, and wait for police to arrive.
• Disregard for traffic laws is widespread.
• You can use a U.S. or  international driver’s license  while in non-resident status in Albania. U.S. citizens remaining in Albania longer than one year must register and apply for resident status and must also apply for an Albanian driver’s license.
• It is illegal to drive under the influence of alcohol at any detectable level.  Albania practices a zero-tolerance policy.  The police will seize your driver’s license and vehicle if caught. You may also be fined or receive up to six months in prison.
• It is against the law to use a mobile phone without a hands-free device while driving. You will be fined if caught.

Public Transportation:  Public transportation options are limited and not generally recommended for visitors. However, marked taxis are considered safe and recommended for use.

• There are no commercial domestic flights.
• Rail conditions are poor, limited, and service is unreliable.
• Private buses travel between most cities almost exclusively during the day on variable schedules.
• Intra-city transit is an unofficial system of privately-owned vans operating without schedules, set fares, or, occasionally, government permission. Many of these vans do not adhere to accepted safety and maintenance standards or driver training. Consider the condition of the van before traveling in one.

See our  Road Safety page  for more information.

Aviation Safety Oversight:  As there is no direct commercial air service to the United States by carriers registered in Albania, the U.S. Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) has not assessed the government of Albania’s Civil Aviation Authority for compliance with International Civil Aviation Organization (ICAO) aviation safety standards. Further information may be found on the  FAA’s safety assessment page .

Maritime Travel:  Mariners planning travel to Albania should also check for  U.S. maritime advisories and alerts . Information may also be posted to the  U.S. Coast Guard homeport website , and the  NGA broadcast warnings .

For additional travel information

• Enroll in the  Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP)  to receive security messages and make it easier to locate you in an emergency.
• Call us in Washington, D.C. at 1-888-407-4747 (toll-free in the United States and Canada) or 1-202-501-4444 (from all other countries) from 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m., Eastern Standard Time, Monday through Friday (except U.S. federal holidays).
• See the  State Department’s travel website  for the  Worldwide Caution  and  Travel Advisories .
• Follow us on  Twitter  and  Facebook .
• See  traveling safely abroad  for useful travel tips.

Review information about International Parental Child Abduction in Albania .  For additional IPCA-related information, please see the International Child Abduction Prevention and Return Act ( ICAPRA ) report.”

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HOW TO SPEND 10 DAYS IN ALBANIA – ITINERARY

ALBANIA ITINERARY FOR 10 DAYS | DISCOVER THIS HIDDEN GEM

Table of Contents

Are you looking for an exciting  Albania itinerary ? Then read on because you will find many travel tips on how to spend 10 days in Albania – one of the most beautiful countries in Europe.

Tucked away in southeastern Europe’s Balkan Peninsula, this relatively small country has a wide variety of interesting towns, natural beauty, and historical attractions to discover. And if you are planning your  Albania itinerary, this post is for you. Here you will find out about the top things to do along with many travel tips for Albania in 10 days.

Until 1991, the country was in relative isolation in terms of tourism due to its turbulent communist history. In recent years though, the country has started to develop rapidly and welcomes visitors from all around the globe. 

Bordering the more popular Greece , as well as Kosovo, Macedonia, and Montenegro , it has a Mediterranean climate and a stunning coastline. Add to that mixture its affordable prices, and you have a very attractive vacation destination. And this post is all about the best Albania itinerary for 10 days.

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. This means I might earn a small commission when you buy a product/service via my link (at no extra cost to you). More about it  here .

TRAVEL TIPS FOR YOUR ALBANIA

So, here are some of the most important travel tips I can give you for your itinerary.

HOW MANY DAYS IN ALBANIA?

10 days in Albania is a good amount to spend there – two weeks would allow you to add 2-3 more places to your itinerary but even with ten days, you get to see the many different sides the country has to offer. If you have only one week, then you can just skip a few places but you will not regret adding a few extra days in Albania.

If you stay in Albania for 10 days, I suggest changing hotels about 3-4 times so you can stay in one place for 2- 3 nights and do day trips from there before continuing your trip. This itinerary is not possible to follow if you just want to stay in one place – for that, travel time would take too much of your time.

HOW TO GET TO ALBANIA

PLANE:  If you arrive via plane, you will most likely arrive in Tirana – the main international airport , so I only focus on that airport. If you arrive in Albania, you can easily take a bus and get to the city center by bus. Buses run frequently, and there is no need to book train tickets in advance.

If you arrive late at night or very early in the morning, you might want to take a taxi to the city center. Alternatively, you can also pick up your rental car here at the airport. There are many rental companies -just outside the airport.

This is what I did: I arrived quite late at night and thus booked a night at this hotel near the airport. They have a free shuttle bus and picked me up – the next morning they dropped me off at the rental company at the airport and then only my Albania road trip started.

CAR/BUS : Many visitors also come from neighboring countries. There are international buses, e.g. from Kosovo or Macedonia –  riding them might be an experience in themselves (at least that is my experience) but safe and you can get to Tirana and start your trip also from there.

10 DAYS IN ALBANIA – HOW TO GET AROUND

Following this itinerary, the best way to get around is via car. I hate to say it but public transportation in Albania is not that far advanced to allow you to see these places within that short amount of time (yes, 10 days is not a lot). 

PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION FOR AN ALBANIA ITINERARY

Public transportation in Albania is still developing , and it varies in quality and availability in different parts of the country. In some areas, there are modern buses and minibusses, while in others, older buses and unmarked cars serve as transportation.

Major cities in Albania, such as Tirana, have public transportation networks, including bus and minibus services. However, outside of these cities, public transportation options can be limited, especially in rural areas. Additionally, while schedules are typically displayed at bus stations, departures tend to be based on a flexible, “when full” model, so it may be necessary to factor time into your travel plans.

Following this Albania itinerary it will be almost impossible (if not impossible) if you just use public transport.

DRIVING IN ALBANIA

Driving a car CAN be a good idea in Albania if you’re an experienced driver comfortable driving in unfamiliar places. 

Driving culture and behavior on the roads in Albania can be somewhat unpredictable , so it’s essential to exercise caution and stay alert while driving.

Driving in Albania is an experience – from being frustrated to being in awe, I experienced all that while driving there. There are some new roads and streets – they are fine – but there are also many streets in terrible condition . This is why a 300km drive will take 7-8 hours (without the breaks). 

Stick to the speed limit (they take it very seriously there) – there is quite a lot of police on the road. I was never stopped by them but I know from friends who were stopped several times – if you do not drive too fast and have the car papers/license, you should not worry about that though.

RENT A CAR IN ALBANIA

Do thorough research in advance, familiarize yourself with local road rules, and ensure that you have comprehensive insurance coverage to protect against any unforeseen incidents.

I rented my car via this site.  While I most often drive in my own van/car, it was not possible for this trip, so I used the site to find a good deal. If I rent cars, I always buy full insurance, so it costs more but it covers all costs in case something happens. After this positive experience, I really do recommend finding your rental car there.

GET YOUR RENTAL CAR HERE

WHERE TO GO IN ALBANIA IN 10 DAYS

Okay, without further ado, here is how I would create my 10-day Albania itinerary. I stayed in the country for about two weeks and saw a few other places that I do not think are must-see places, so I did not include them on this itinerary.

DAY 1 – TIRANA

Drenched in culture, history, and distinctive architecture, Tirana is a fantastic starting point for your Albanian itinerary. It enjoys a central location surrounded by the Dajti mountains and hills to the east and a valley overlooking the Adriatic Sea to the west.

The city is bright and colorful with contemporary street art and kaleidoscopic murals.  

Tirana’s lively and fun atmosphere is perhaps best experienced by strolling through Skanderbeg Square in the center of the city. It’s Tirana’s focal point and home to places like the Et’hem Bey Mosque and Skanderbeg Monument as well as several restaurants.

Bunk’Art 1 sits on the outskirts of town and was initially intended to be a hideout in the event of a nuclear attack. Today, it’s now a museum detailing Albania’s history through conceptual art, preserved rooms, and eerie sound effects.

Tip: If you’re a history buff, consider this communism history tour which includes a tour of several museums and landmarks.

• TRAVEL TIME TIRANA – BERAT: About 2 hours (100 km)

WHERE TO STAY IN TIRANA

DAY 2 – BERAT

One of the highlights of traveling to Albania is undoubtedly Berat, set in the middle of the nation . It is home to stunning buildings, scenic natural surroundings, and vibrant culture.

Berat is a picturesque town often referred to as “ The Town of a Thousand Windows” . This nickname is due to the gorgeous sandstone houses with antique window frames perched side-by-side on a hilltop overlooking the city.

Berat Castle is one of its most iconic landmarks, an ancient fortress with roots dating back to the fourth century . Within its walls, you will find old Byzantine churches mixed in with ruins from other periods. Given its hillside location, the castle offers spectacular panoramic views of the city and its surrounding scenic landscapes.  You can also enjoy a view of the city along the Osumi River . Also by the stream, you’ll find Dimal where remnants date back to 200 BC.

There are a few museums   – the best one might be the National Ethnographic Museum , an 18th-century building that details how life has changed since Berat’s beginnings. However, given your limited time, you might have to prioritize what you want to do in Berat.

TIP: The famous Blue Eyes are a pair of otherworldly water springs in Albania, one in the north and one in the south. The one in the south is beautiful – but not as stunning as the one in the north. With only 10 days in Albania, I would skip this one – it is just quite a detour from Berat, and remember the roads of Albania make distances even longer.

• TRAVE TIME BERAT – GJIROKASTER: Almost 3 hours (180 km)

WHERE TO STAY IN BERAT

DAY 3: GJIROKASTER

Situated on a hillside in the south of Albania lies Gjirokastёr, fondly referred to by locals as “the City of Stones”. This ancient town perfectly illustrates the country’s well-preserved Ottoman architecture and rich history.

Gorgeous cobblestone streets wind their way to the city’s most dominant feature – Gjirokastёr Castle. This eerie 13th-century fortress was initially a communist regime prison. However, it now contains many interesting and unusual artifacts. Inside the castle are two museums, an arsenal collection, crumbling ruins to inspect, and many more unusual communist-era relics.

You can’t leave without exploring the Gjirokastër Bazaar, which features Ottoman-style architecture throughout. Here, you can do some great shopping for new and second-hand treasures and souvenirs.

Gjirokastër is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful and enchanting towns on the Balkan Peninsula. It was my favorite town as it is livelier than Berat, so I highly recommend making this a must-see spot. 

• TRAVE TIME  GJIROKASTER – HIMARE: Almost 3 hours (180 km)

WHERE TO STAY IN GJROKASTER

DAY 4 AND 5: ALBANIAN RIVIERA

The Albanian Riviera is a popular seaside destination. The coastline along the Riviera features rocky mountains, white sand, and clear blue waters. As such, it’s a paradise for beachgoers. Albania’s Mediterranean climate is generally pleasant, but it does get rather warm between July and September.

Be sure to check out this guide to help you plan what to pack for Europe in the summer . There are a couple of places you can add to your Albania itinerary.

The stunning coastal town of Himarё was originally a quiet fishing village. But, it has steadily grown into a popular beach holiday destination. There is a lot of natural beauty in the area, from secret coves and golden beaches to crystal-clear turquoise waters ideal for swimming.

Himarё is generally less crowded than neighboring Ksamil, which makes it a great spot if you are looking for relaxation and tranquillity.

TIP: If you do not mind driving, you can also visit Ksamil, which is located a bit more south.

WHERE TO STAY IN HIMARE

Rea Boutique Hotel

Ksamil is a gem of the Albanian seaside with its picturesque beaches and fun water activities. These include jet skiing, kayaking, paddleboarding, and speed boat rides. However, the most idyllic experience is swimming to one of the three stunning islands a short distance from the shoreline.

The town is also known for its vibrant nightlife, especially during the summer months (July to September). Its promenade is full of vendors selling local produce and souvenirs to take back with you.

• TRAVEL TIME HIMARE – THETH: About 7 hours (a bit less than 400 km)

DAY 6: THETH

It will be a long drive – from the Albanian Riveria, it is time to head to the north. And believe me – this is heaven. Beautiful. Stunning. Jaw-dropping. Gorgeous as Switzerland.

Up in Albania’s northern reaches is the tiny mountain village of Theth . I consider this to be one of the most stunning destinations in the country. It has only a handful of residents and has the magnificent Albanian Alps in its surroundings. This makes it look like a village out of a fairytale. And it is not only the village – it is the whole region.

The traditional houses in Theth feature stone walls and wooden roofs, adding to the charming scenery. Its most iconic landmark is the small stone church with its astonishingly beautiful backdrop. This quaint, picture-perfect village is one of Europe ‘s best-kept secrets.

Stunning waterfalls and a dramatic canyon await in the surrounding Theth National Park . The park has two fantastic hiking trails leading you to various picturesque viewing points before meeting up at the stunning Grunas waterfall .  Another can’t-miss sight here is the Church of Theth. It’s a small building with an awe-inspiring backdrop of mountains and lush greenery.

• TRAVEL TIME THETH VILLAGE TO BLUE EYE: About 30 minutes

DAY 7: NORTHERN BLUE EYE

Similar to the Southern Blue Eye, this natural spring water pool with magnificent blue colors is a breathtaking sight. What sets the Northern Blue Eye apart is the beautiful small waterfall feeding into it and the many scenic hiking trails around it.

Jagged mountain peaks and a deep river valley surround the pool, which adds even more beauty to the picture-perfect scenery. Nature enthusiasts will enjoy the natural landscapes, wildlife, and variety of bird species that frequent the area.  You’ll find the Northern Blue Eye about four miles from Theth Village.

There is an easy hiking trail that starts in the village and leads to the spring. If you’re brave enough to endure its cold temperatures, you’re free to jump in and swim in the azure waters.

I do believe it is so worth it – there were several people along the hike selling some drinks and snacks.

Then it is time to go to my most, absolute favorite place in Albania.

• TRAVEL TIME THETH VILLAGE TO VALBONA: About 6,5 hours (250 km)

DAY 8 AND 9: VALBONA VALLEY

Valbona Valley is a stunning natural area located in the northern region of Albania. It is part of Valbona Valley National Park, established to protect the region’s diverse ecosystem and natural beauty.

Nestled within the valley lies the tiny village of Valbona. It has a long tradition of folk music and dance celebrated with many local festivals that take place throughout the year. It is also home to several ancient churches and monasteries, which offer a glimpse into the region’s rich history and cultural heritage. 

One of its main attractions is the Valbona Pass, a mountain pass that offers astonishing views of the surrounding landscape. It is particularly popular among hikers, and you can see the peaks of the Accursed Mountains and the Adriatic Sea in the distance. Many people hike from Valbona to Theth – this takes about 6-8 hours one way. While I wanted to do the hike, I just did not know how to organize it.

• TRAVEL TIME VALBONA – TIRANA: About 5 hours (265 km)

WHERE TO STAY IN VALBONE

DAY 10: RETURN TO TIRANA

It is time to say goodbye to the stunning part of Albania and head back to Tirana. The travel time is about 5 hours, so you might have some time left on your last day in Albania to explore the vibrant city of Tirana.

FINAL THOUGHTS ON THE BEST ITINERARY FOR ALBANIA IN 10 DAYS

From its stunning coastlines to mountainous scenery, many castles , and archaeological sites, Albania is an upcoming holiday destination with a lot to offer. Its affordable prices and lovely climate make it a great choice for a European adventure.

And with 10 days in Albania, you can see some of the most beautiful places. Just keep in mind that things in Albania might still be a bit unorganized at times but the beautiful scenery, friendly locals, and budget-friendly activities make up for all that.

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