A Backpacker’s Guide to Ushuaia, Argentina
- Last Updated March 17, 2024
- Argentina , South-America
“Among the scenes which are deeply impressed on my mind, none exceed in sublimity the primeval forests undefaced by the hand of man; whether those of Brazil, where the powers of Life are predominant, or those of Tierra del Fuego, where Death and decay prevail. Both are temples filled with the varied productions of the God of Nature: — no one can stand in these solitudes unmoved, and not feel that there is more in man than the mere breath of his body.” Charles Darwin, Voyage of the Beagle
A rugged archipelago surrounded by frigid, treacherous waters, Tierra Del Fuego is South America’s southernmost reach, a place where the Andes meet the southern oceans and icy glaciers hang onto slopes above dense, impenetrable forest.
The land of fire may seem a counterintuitive name for a landmass so battered by freezing wind and waves, but it was not named for its climate, but instead for the fires that were built by the indigenous population. They were initially noted by Magellan in 1520 as he sailed past the shore here, seeking passage to the Asian spice islands and spotted hundreds of flames burning on the coastline, like candles flickering in the night. The Yamana people used the fires to keep themselves warm in Tierra Del Fuego’s hostile environment for over 6,000 years before the European invaders decided to settle here in the early 18th century, dooming them with foreign diseases.
Today, the region is shared by two hostile neighbours, Chile and Argentina, with only about a third of Isla Grande – Tierra Del Fuego’s main island – belonging to the latter. However, the locals will tell you this doesn’t matter, as the area’s largest city, Ushuaia, belongs to them. To call it a city may be a little generous but it is essential if you want to claim Ushuaia as the world’s southernmost city, as the Argentinians do, and take the title away from the other contender, the much larger Punta Arenas in Chile, which sits just 1.6 degrees further north.
In other ways, Ushuaia’s size doesn’t matter too much. This former penal colony, set on the cold, damp shores of the beagle channel with a stunning backdrop of snow-capped glaciers, is one of Patagonia’s most visited cities. It attracts everyone from backpackers, nature-enthusiasts, and cruisers looking to embark on trips to Antarctica to more adventurous visitors who use it as a base for multi-day hikes.
Beyond the tourist attractions, Ushuaia is disarmingly pretty. Looking back at it from the Beagle Vhannel and seeing painted wooden houses and buildings clad in colorful corrugated sheets climb up the hillside, framed by snow-clad peaks, it definitely feels worth travelling to the end of the earth for.
Getting to Ushuaia
I flew into Ushuaia from Aeroparque Internacional Jorge Newbery in Buenos Aires. The flight time is around 3 and a half hours and operated by LATM, Aerolineas Argentinas, and Norwegian. Expect to pay around £100 for the flight but prices can be as low as £70 if booked far enough in advance. Ushuaia’s small but modern airport is located around 4km south of the town centre so you will need to catch a taxi into town. It’s worth noting that if you choose to fly out of Ushuaia to your next destination, you will be charged a departure tax but this is now included in your ticket price.
Onward buses to Punta Arenas in Chile take around 11-12 hours, including a short ferry trip across the rough waters of the Magellan Strait at its narrowest point. The journey from Ushuaia to Punta Arenas is particularly picturesque, taking you through the mountains surrounding Ushuaia and then onto the landscape of the Patagonian steppe and along the Magellan Straits. Buses run from Terminal de Ómnibus de Ushuaia. Bus Sur leaves on alternating days at 8am while Buses Pacheco run every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 9am. The timetable from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia is every Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 8.30am. Make sure you purchase a ticket (£35) at least one day in advance as the bus does tend to fill up quickly on the day.
Check bus prices and availability between Ushuaia and Punta Arenas.
Buses to and from Rio Grande take 3 hours and leave regularly, up to 8 times per day.
Getting Around
The grid-like layout of Ushuaia’s town centre is easy to navigate and compact enough to walk, although taxis and bike-rental shops are plentiful should you need them. If you plan on visiting Parque Nacional Tierra Del Fuego, minibuses to the park leave every hour between 9am and 6pm from the corner of Av Maipu and Fadul. If there are more than two of you, it may be cheaper to take a taxi to the park.
Where to Stay in Ushuaia
While the streets of Ushuaia are packed with more upmarket hotels that cater to the cruise crowd, there are plenty of excellent hostels and camp sites for the more budget-conscious. Most of them have kitchens and a laundry service as well as free breakfast and decent wi-fi. If you are travelling in the height of summer (December and January), make sure you book far enough in advance.
Antarctica Hostel
The coolest and most popular hostel in town, Antarctica is a sociable place filled with buena onda , good vibes. There is a large lounge and garden as well as an on-site bar for when you feel like partying. Breakfast is free and their excursion service means that you don’t have to go through the hassle of traipsing through town visiting dozens of tour operators.
Galeazzi Basily
Run by a lovely French and English-speaking couple, Galeazzi Basily Bed & Breakfast is a family house set back away from town on a quaint residential street, giving it a welcoming and cosy feel. I stayed for two nights and really appreciated the constant supply of hot drinks and cake when the weather took a chilly turn. They also offer cabanas that sleep up to four people.
Los Yámanas
Named of the indigenous population of this part of Patagonia, Los Yámanas is located just out of town on the banks of the Beagle Channel, offering enchanting views over the water. It is very much a heritage property, with four poster, wrought iron beds and slightly dated décor but the hotel does have a chic spa, sauna and fantastic restaurant.
The Best Things to do in Ushuaia
Despite most of the region’s attractions being located outside of towns in the national parks and mountains that surround Ushuaia, the town itself is a pretty, pleasant place to relax for a few days, sampling the delicious seafood on offer and wandering the quirky museums. It’s easy to see most of the sights on the main drag in a day or two, but the real joy of Ushuaia is putting on your hiking boots and venturing a little further.
Go Hiking in Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego
Located 12km west of Ushuaia, Parque Nacional Tierra Del Fuego encompasses 630 kilometres of mountains, lakes, forest and valleys, stretching all the way from the Beagle Channel to the Chilean Border. While only 30km of the park is actually accessible by hiking trails, there are a number of hugely popular walks such as the Costera Trail (11km) which follows the channel’s coastline and the Cerro Guanaco Trail which is a hard, 8 hour slog up to a stunning viewpoint and back.
There are amble wildlife spotting opportunities for nature-lovers hoping to catch glimpses of Guanacos, foxes and non-native species such as rabbit and beaver. However, most people come here for the spectacular views of the bay, particularly from Mirador Lapataia and Mirador Guanaco. There are multiple campsites dotted around the park but only one, at Lago Roca, has a café and grocery store.
Park entry fee : $14 Getting there : Regular buses leave from the bus station in Ushuaia for Tierra Del Fuego. Ensure that you check the timetable for pick-up times.
Ride the Fin Del Mundo Train
Originally constructed to transport prisoners for work in the forests surrounding Ushuaia, this narrow-gauge steam train has since been converted into one of Ushuaia’s most popular tourist attractions. In 1994, after 40 years of not functioning, El Tren del Fin del Mundo’s station reopened so that passengers can relive the prisoner’s journey towards the slopes of Susana Mountain. Along the 7km of track, zig-zagging past the Pipo River into an otherwise inaccessible part of Tierra Del Fuego National Park, you will hear stories of the prisoners who came here to collect materials to build the very prison that held them. The station is located 8km west of Ushuaia and requires a taxi ride to reach. Tickets cost AR2100 and entrance fee for the national park are not included in the price.
Museo Maritimo y Presidio
Also known as the Museo de la carcel due to the fact that it is located in the city’s former prison where 700 people were incarcerated in just 380 small cells until 1947, Museo Maritimo y Presidio acts as both a prison museum and a maritime one. While the maritime section is interesting, the main draw is wandering the hauntingly atmospheric cells of the prison block where models and displays describe the lives of inmates.
Where : Gobernador Paz y Yaganes Ex Presidio When : Daily 9am – 8pm
Glacier Martial
The best views ver the Beagle channel can be found at the base of Glacier Martial. This receding glacier is a 7km walk uphill (or taxi ride) from town where you can then hop on a scenic chairlift ride up the mountain (closed in April and May). Although it may not be as impressive as the Perito Morena Glacier, the one and a half hour trek from the chairlift station takes you directly below Glacier Martial where you will even find ski runs open in the winter. There is even a charming refugio at the base selling warming mulled-wine and snacks.
Take a Boat Trip on the Beagle Channel
Taking its name from the vessel on which Darwin travelled for one of his most famous exhibitions, the channel running eastwards from Ushuaia is stunning and packed with wildlife-spotting opportunities. Most boat tours of the channel last around 3 – 5 hours and take in the sea lion colony of Isla de los Pajaros, where you will find thousands of the pinnipeds lazing and lounging on top of one another, and Faro Les Eclaireurs, sometimes (incorrectly) dubbed the lighthouse at end of the world, where its picturesque red and white tower stands on a desolate island, alone but for the cormorants and albatross that swarm around it.
Longer trips take in the Penguin colony at Isla Martillo , but when I visited in April, the penguins had long gone (October to March is the best time to see them). Boat sizes range from small outboard motor fishing vessels to larger catamarans and the shorter tours cost around £30. I took a fantastic tour with Patagonia Explorer which included a short trek on Bridges Island with a guide well-versed in the local ecology.
Get your Passport Stamped with an 'End of the World' Stamp
While the Ushuaia’s main tourist office offers all the usual services – tourist information, tour booking and registration services for people planning to hike anywhere but the main route through Parque Nacional Tierra Del Fuego – it’s also worth stopping by to get your passport stamped with a little seal to prove that you have been to the end of the world . They have a couple of different designs but if you don’t want a mark in your passport, they are also willing to stamp notebooks and travel journals for you.
Where : Av. San Martin 674 When : Mon to Fri 9am – 10pm; Sat & Sun 9am – 8pm
Museo Fin Del Mundo
Located in a building that acted as the city’s bank between 1903 and 1979, Museo Del Fin Del Mundo offers an in-depth overview of the region’s history, from the indigenous people of Tierra del Fuego to the Europeans that settled here. A highlight is a room filled with stuffed regional fauna.
Where : Av. Maipú 173 When : Mon to Fri 10am – 5pm; Sat 1pm – 5pm
Hike the World's Southernmost Trekking Route on Navarino Island
Home of the southernmost trekking route in the world, the Dientes Circuit, Navarino Island is also the most southerly permanently inhabited place in the world, and it is this remoteness that draws people in. Separated from the barren beauty of Tierra del Fuego by the Beagle Channel, Navarino Island is dotted with alpine lakes and stunning granite spires shrouded in mist. With over 150km of trails that wind through mossy forests and the towering Dientes de Navarino, the island is a hiker’s paradise: most people come here to hike the 70km long Los Dientes de Navarino Circuit over the course of an entire week.
Puerto Williams, the island’s only town, is home to just 4,000 people, including the last remaining Yamana people who were relocated here in 1941. If you’re planning an extended stay on the island, Lodge Lakutaia brings a bit of comfort and civilisation to “El Fin Del Mundo”. Known as the southernmost hotel in the world, it has 24 comfortable rooms, as well as a restaurant serving Chilean wines and local cuisine. For those not looking to trek the Dientes Circuit, there is a jam-packed activity calendar including kayaking, cycling and horse riding, as well as fishing excursions.
Getting there : There are two boats that do the 30-minute trip from Ushuaia to Navarino each day at 8.30am (Zenith Explorer) and 9.30am (Ushuaia Boating) before returning later in the day. The price can be a little expensive and note that you will be crossing into Chile so will need your passport when you reach the island. Minibuses take passengers from the port to their hotels but it is worth noting that in extreme conditions, the boats will not sail so be prepared to spend an extra day on Navarino Island.
Museo Yamana
The indigenous Yamana people lived undisturbed in Ushuaia well into the late 19th century, when the first European settlers arrived in search of gold and farmland. Unfortunately, these invaders proved fatal for the Yamuna who were all but wiped out by foreign disease brought to the region by the Europeans. Museo Yamana showcases the lifestyle and culture of the Yamana Indians through dioramas and fascinating displays explaining how these people survived such an inhospitable climate.
Where : Pres. Bernardino Rivadavia 1
HOW LONG SHOULD YOU STAY IN USHUAIA?
The majority of visitors to Ushuaia stay for just one night either before or after taking a cruise to Antarctica, however, I recommend giving the town a little more of your time. 2 days is enough to explore central Ushuaia but I recommend allowing yourself at least 5 if you plan on hiking in Parque Nacional Tierra Del Fuego or taking a boat trip to explore the islands of the Beagle Channel.
Where to Eat & Drink in Ushuaia
Due to Ushuaia being very much a tourist town, many of the restaurants can be expensive, catering to the cruising crowd and people embarking on expeditions to Antarctica. However, of all the spots in Argentina, you may want to splurge while in Ushuaia and visit a couple of the city’s fantastic restaurants.
Like in much of Patagonia, the seafood – particularly the king crab, merluza negra (bass), and cholgas (mussels) – is excellent and most places have their own take on Fuegian cordero, a slow-cooked Patagonian lamb. There are budget options for backpackers though: many of the city’s drinking spots will do comparatively cheap bar food and there is an abundance of panaderias where you will find sandwiches, cakes and empanadas.
Patagonian cuisine isn’t known for catering to vegetarians so luckily, this compact Asian takeaway can be a god-send for veggies and vegans in Ushuaia. Run by a Taiwanese family that speaks both English and Spanish, the food is served as a buffet and the prices are relatively cheap (some dishes are priced by weight while others are per serving). Takeaway only.
Where : Cmte. Luis Piedrabuena 276 When : Mon to Fri 11.45am – 5pm
Bodegón Fueguino
Painted peach, this cute, historic wooden house was built way back in 1896 and is now home to Bodegón Fueguino, a cosy restaurant serving up hearty, homemade Fuegian food. They have 9 types of Patagonian lamb dishes on the menu as well as pizzas, pasta and great home-made beer.
Where : Av. San Martín 859 When : Tues to Sun 12pm – 2.45pm & 7.45pm – 11.45pm
Microbreweries are common throughout Patagonia but Birra is one of the first bars in the region to really embrace the bottleshop and craft beer bar fomula that is incredibly common in the US and UK. Clad entirely in wood, this narrow, two storey high drinking spot brings a hipster flair to Ushuaia. The well-stock fridges contain beers from Germany, Argentina, Spain, France, Czech Republic, Mexico and the UK and they serve up some fantastic burgers.
Where : Pres. Julio Argentino Roca 61 When : Daily 12pm – 3pm & 7pm – 2am
It seems that no matter how remote your location, it is possible to stumble across an Irish bar almost anywhere in the world, However, this green-walled pub in downtown Ushuaia must take the title as the world’s most southern. It’s a popular spot with backpackers due to its lively atmosphere and live music,. Plus, the Guiness isn’t too bad either.
Where : 9 de Julio 168 When : Mon to Sat 7pm – 3am
TREAT YOURSELF
Kalma resto.
Described by many as the best restaurant in Ushuaia, even topping those that are situated in the elegant confines of the luxurious hotels lining the harbour, Kalma Resto is the brainchild of chef Joan Miró who breathes new life into Fuegan stables like Patagonian lamb and seafood fresh from the Beagle Channel. The intimate restaurant seats just 24, so ensure that you make a reservation.
Where : Gdor. Manuel Fernández Valdez 293 When : Mon to Sat 7pm – 11pm
When to Visit Ushuaia
Most tourists visit Tierra del Fuego during summer months of December, January and February when the daylight ours are long and weather is more bearable. Not only is it warmer, but this is also the time that most cruise ships to Antarctica depart as they have fewer icebergs, storms and rough seas to contend with. It’s also the time that the wildlife around Ushuaia, such as sea lions, whales, penguins and migratory seabirds, are most active. Unfortunately, this also means that prices are higher during these months.
USEFUL INFORMATION
Most of the banks dotted around Ushuaia have ATMs, although there is normally a withdrawal limit of $150 US and a fairly hefty transaction fee. Luckily, most bars, restaurants, and hotels around town accept major credit/ debit cards
Dave McClane
David McClane is a photographer and travel writer based in Leeds, UK. Since first picking up a camera on a yearlong journey through Central and South America in 2014/2015, He has carefully documented his travels through almost 50 countries.
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One response.
Thank you for your post! I am struggling to find some infos on how to get from Ushuaia to Puerto Williams so this was really helpful!! I saw that the boat+bus ride can be pretty expensive. Could you please let me know how much it cost? Thanks a lot!
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Buses run from Terminal de Ómnibus de Ushuaia. Bus Sur leaves on alternating days at 8am while Buses Pacheco run every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 9am. The timetable from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia is every Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 8.30am. Make sure you purchase a ticket (£35) at least one day in advance as the bus does tend to fill ...