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The 15 best walking tours in London

Those boots were made for walking, so use them to explore London’s best sights

London’s one of the most walkable capital cities in the world. Indeed, in many ways, London is the anti-L.A.: here people think you’re mad if you do drive a car around town. Besides, nothing quite lets you get to know a city like a good walk around – after all, London existed long before there were any forms of public or private transport more sophisticated than a horse. Plus, after trekking across half the city, you have the perfect excuse to sit down with a pint (or two). 

Sure, bus and boat tours are good, but there’s nothing quite like a London walking tour. From basic sightseeing treks to specialised theme tours, whether you’ve got a day, an afternoon or just an hour, there’s some sort of tour out there for you. Buckle up, folks: here’s our pick of the best walking tours in London.

Need more sightseeing inspiration? Check out our list of 101 things to do in London .

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London walking tours

1.  Food Walking tour: West to East

If you’ve got half a day to space and a burning curiosity to find out what exactly constitutes British cuisine (and then to eat it) this epic trek should be firmly up your street. Tuck into a six-hour walking tour that will take you from Buckingham Palace (where you'll witness the Changing of the Guard) past the Houses of Parliament and onto the Tower of London, where you'll surely be ready for the delicious British delights that await. Try fish and chips, scotch eggs, pie and mash and a so-called famous doughnut (not sure about that last one tbh), before venturing over the bridge to peruse the sights and smells of delicious Borough Market.

2.  Kensington Palace Gardens tour with Royal High Tea

If you're after an excuse to wear something other than wellies, visit the gorgeous Kensington Gardens on a guided tour before sitting down and nibbling scones at Royal High Tea. The two-hour tour is soaked in royal history and all the best bits of being British (tea and cake, mostly). Although entry to the buildings isn't included, you'll be walked and talked through the gardens, marvelling at the water features and Sunken Garden, with a visit to Princess Diana's statue and ending with an indulgent high tea in the surroundings of the Kensington Palace Pavilion. How marvy!

3.  Three-hour secret British food tour

Three hours of food and snacks? Yes, please! This three-hour guided tour includes eight delicious stops in the London Bridge area, giving you an insight into the history of British food culture (which is very cultured, might we add). Starting in the historic Borough Market, you'll eat your way through classics and end the tour with quintessentially British desserts and tea. Plus, on your travels, your tour guide will enlighten you on the history of each area and there'll be a secret surprise dish, too. Our tip: wear stretchy bottoms.

4.  Harry Potter walking tour

Anyone who’s seen or read the adventures of the Boy Who Lived (and if you haven’t, have you been living under a rock?) will know that London is a recurring character in both the films and books. Follow in Harry’s footsteps with this 150-minute jaunt, which goes from the ‘real’ Diagon Alley through to The Leaky Cauldron, Platform 9¾ and other fantastical locales. Being Muggles, there’s obviously a bit of a limit to what we can actually see – but that won’t stop you from soaking up the magical atmosphere.

5.  Westminster and the Churchill War Rooms

Few Brits have a bigger reputation than wartime PM and noted cigar smoker Sir Winston. So what better way to get a feel for the capital than via Churchill’s London? In two hours your Blue Badge guide will take you to see an array of major Westminster landmarks associated with the man, such as Big Ben and Downing Street, alongside the poignant Cenotaph war memorial. Walkers will then be led to Churchill's wartime bunker, where you can see several items that once belonged to big man, discover top-secret conversations that went on down there and soak up the drama of the room in which the fate of the world was shaped so long ago.

6.  Changing of the Guard guided walking tour

No experience is more quintessentially London than the Changing of the Guard: that is to say when one group of soldiers clock off and the next clocks on – with much ceremony – at Buckingham Palace. Your knowledgeable guide will also take you to see palaces, royal parks, royal residences and you'll even have an opportunity to march alongside the guards. The walk is aimed at all ages, with interesting insights for adults and plenty of fun for kids.

7.  Gangster walking tour of London’s East End led by actor Vas Blackwood

East London is definitely no Longer the gangland of yore: if the Krays twins were around today they’d probably own some sort of ironic theme cafe. But there’s a rich and thrilling not-so-distant-past there, and this tour is particularly special Led by ‘Lock, Stock and Two Smoking Barrels’ actor Vas Blackwood (aka Rory Breaker), who'll share his wealth of knowledge about the villains – both fictional and real – of London’s murky underworld. Over the two-hour tour you'll hear tales of the notorious Kray twins around Whitechapel and see iconic ‘Lock, Stock…’ locations from the much-loved Brit gangster flick.

8.  Historic pub walking tour

You could probably spend years working through London’s endless array of pubs and not really scratch the surface. But this three-hour afternoon tour is a decent start. Discover storied alehouses and literary drinking dens on a journey that stretches from ancient Southwark to the shiny West End, on a walk guaranteed to visit at least four of the capital’s finest historic boozers. Hear the history of the buildings, learn the differences between Elizabethan coaching inns and Victorian gin palaces, and visit the watering holes frequented by Charles Dickens – and have yourself a pint, if that's how you’re inclined.

9.  Private Sherlock Holmes walking tour

Explore the world of Arthur Conan Doyle’s Great Detective – plus his beloved sidekick Dr Watson, of course – on this private three-hour walking tour of London. Visit the Sherlock Holmes Museum (entry ticket not included), located at Holmes’ home of 221b Baker Street with your personal guide. Explore central London sites made famous in the filming of the Benedict Cumberbatch-starring adaptation ‘Sherlock’, such as Russell Square or New Scotland Yard. Along the way, lap up behind-the-scenes stories from the set.

10.  Blood and Tears walk

If you’re in the mood for something a little gristlier, then why not set a couple of hours aside one night to exploore the capital's dark side? You’ll be taken on a journey through the darker bits of the city’s past that includes visiting execution sites, learning about grave robbers and meet London's most notorious murderers as you wander from Barbican to Holborn. Unsurprisingly, a few details in this one are a little ghastly, so it's very much open to ages 12+ only (plus the 7pm start is past the little ’uns bedtimes).

11.  Greenwich highlights half-day walking tour

Perhaps no London borough is quite so distinctive singular as maritime Greenwich, and this fun and educational half-day tour comes highly recommended. All the major venues are on the walk, including the Royal Observatory, National Maritime Museum, the Cutty Sark, Old Royal Naval College, Queen’s House and Greenwich Market. Put on your comfiest boots and join your knowledgeable guide to experience the majesty of Britain’s naval zenith and meet the spot where Thor had a fight with Christopher Eccleston in ‘The Dark World’. This tour is led in small groups, so there’ll be no pushing or shoving. 

12.  Jack the Ripper tour with fish and chips

No name gets shivers running down the spine quite like Jack the Ripper, the infamous, never caught serial killer who terrorised the foggy streets of late Victorian London. See the sinister side of the city as you follow the blood-soaked footsteps of Jack and Sweeney Todd, wandering down gas-lit alleyways on a very spooky walking tour of London. Arriving at each scary spot by coach, your guide will dish out shocking true-life details about these infamous London murderers. Get goosebumps at Theatre Royal Drury Lane, the most haunted theatre in the city, and hear stories of the Ripper’s East End. Then polish the night off in style with a fish supper at a traditional East End boozer.

13.  Bowl of Chalk walking tours

The name? It's Cockney rhyming slang for 'walk'! So that’s 'Walk walking tours’, which admittedly doesn’t have quite the same ring. Maybe don’t quibble about that to Jonnie, the born-and-bred Londoner with a passion for taking people on walks around the city and sharing some of its secrets. His weekend tours are fun, laidback and – best of all for the budget conscious– delivered on a 'pay what you can' basis. Private weekday tours can be booked too: take a look on the website for further details.

14.  Unseen Tours

These alternative, extremely worthwhile tours are run by The Sock Mob, a social enterprise that works with homeless, ex-homeless or vulnerably housed people. And the guides who lead the four different tours of four very different bits of London – that’s Covent Garden, London Bridge, Soho and Brick Lane – have all experienced homelessness at some time in their lives. This absolutely doesn’t mean the tours are gruelling misery porn that dwells on the hardship of the guides’ lives – far from it! Actually they're fun, laidback journeys through each area's local history, with a few important details about social injustice thrown in too.

15.  East End street art walking tour

If you’re a Londoner, there’s a decent chance that you’re not so bothered about the historical side of walking tours. After all, you’re up to speed. You know it all. So here’s the chance to get to know a very different side to the capital. This two-hour tour takes attendees through the street art of the East End, wandering through alleys and markets and telling the stories of artworks through the artists that made them. Learn whose tags are whose and discover the history and meaning behind the art adorning the walls of this historic district.

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Walking Tours and Experiences in London

Free Royal Westminster Tour*

Explore the history of the Royal family and Parliament as you see London's most famous sights, from Buckingham Palace to Big Ben.

     Schedule  - See Calendar

     Meeting Point - The Clermont Hotel

     Duration - 2.5 Hours

Free Historic City of London Tour*

Learn the story of the City of London's evolution from Roman trading port to the most powerful financial district in the world.

     Schedule - See Calendar

     Meeting Point - Tower Hill

Free London in a Day Tour*

Explore all of the London Landmarks in one tour ! Everything from Big Ben to the Tower of London and everything in between!

     Schedule - Private Tour Only

     Duration - 5 - 6 Hours

Free Jack the Ripper Tour*

Travel back to the Autumn of Terror 1888 and investigate a series of murders that sent shockwaves through London.

     Duration - 2 Hours

Free Street Art of  Shoreditch Tour*

Enter a world of possibility, where the walls are blank canvases and the flick of a spray can inspire rebellion and revolution.

     Meeting Point - Shoreditch High Street

Free Harry Potter Wizarding Tour*

Leave your inner muggle behind and discover the magical secrets hiding right under your nose.

     Meeting Point - The Palace Theatre

Free Ghosts, Ghouls and Ghastly Murder Tour*

Hear the terrifying tales of London’s worst villains, who killed and were killed and then came back to kill again.

     Meeting Point - Cleopatra's Needle

Free Rock and Roll Soho Tour*

Explore the birthplace of London's Rock and Roll scene, the heart of the old Red Light District and hear tales of debauchery and drunken misadventure through the ages.

     Meeting Point - Golden Square

Free Sherlock Holmes & the Art of Deduction Tour*

Grab your deer stalker hat and explore locations visited by Sherlock Holmes in the books, films and tv show!

     Meeting Point - Piccadilly Circus ​

Free James Bond & The History of Espionage Tour*

Join and step into the shoes of the world’s most famous spy!

    Schedule -  Private Tour Only

    Meeting Point -   The Clermont Hotel

    Duration -  2 Hours

Free Queer & LGBTQ+ History Tour*

Explore London's queer hub & home and uncover 2000 years of LGBTQ+ history.

    Schedule -  See Calendar

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WHAT IS A FREE TOUR? *

We run all of our walking tours of London on a pay what you think it’s worth basis. We've all had the experience of paying for an activity up front and then later on, feeling like it was not worth the money. We take that problem away. There is no booking fee for our free tours, and no payment is required before the tour begins. If you have fun then you can decide if you would like to tip your guide. The value is up to you, whatever fits in with your budget. This makes our tours affordable to everyone, regardless of their finances, but also incentivises our guides to never stop trying to improve, as the system rewards the guides who provide the best quality tours. Tipping is always voluntary and our guides will never pressure you into it, but this is their job so if you have had fun, we ask that you take a moment to consider what it was worth to you.

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15 Best Walking Tours in London

By Julia Buckley

London is full of history. Not that you’d necessarily know it; royal palaces and top-tier museums aside, it tends to be coy about its past. Between the shapely skyscrapers of the City of London—the business area—are churches that predate the Great Fire of London; the hipster East End was once home to immigrants that changed the country’s history.

But this isn’t a city stuck in aspic; it’s making history, too. A new breed of walking tours in London will show you a different side, whether the street artists who are making waves on the ground, or the people crafting the food and drinks of the future U.K. food scene.

There are common tours aplenty, too, but what London excels in is small-scale walking tours, done as a passion by the founders. From a lesson in black history to musicians, the emphasis on social history is strong. Lace up those sneakers—here are 15 of the best walking tours in London for your next visit.

Tales of Plague Arrow

Look for the man holding the rat (yes, rat) on the stick near Tower Hill Tube station when meeting up with your tour group, which spans anywhere between 4 and 25 people. The walk—about two miles over the course of two hours—is professional but fun, and there's not just a guide but an actor, too, who jumps in for various scenes. Booking is highly recommended, but last-minute arrivals are also possible (as long as the tour is running).

London Fire Walk Arrow

You'll meet at Monument—not the Tube station, but the Monument to the Great Fire of London the station takes its name from. This is a lovely, relaxed tour with David Steer, who calls the project his "baby." It's all on foot—two miles in two hours—and advance reservations are essential.

Jermyn Street Fashion Walk Arrow

A seriously professional private tour, curated to your preferences. They recommend groups no larger than eight, and it's all done on foot. Art History UK has a pool of 15 guides, four of whom lead the Jermyn Street walk. Most have a background of art or history, combined with fashion, and one even trained as a tailor.

Mayfair: A Spy's Guide Arrow

Detour is a revolutionary app that provides walking tours, narrated by real experts, on your phone, guided by GPS. One of 15 walks in London, this one is narrated by Annie Machon, a former MI5 operative (read: U.K. spy). The joy of it being app-based is that you can do it at any time you wish, although ideal times are noted on the app for each tour.

Steph Koyfman

Alex Erdekian

Laura Walsh

Jamie Spain

Historic Pubs, Food & Beer Tour Arrow

Think of this as a walk with friends rather than a tour (groups are capped at 12). You meet at a prime selfie spot—at Rotherhithe, overlooking the Thames—then catch the Overground to Wapping to hit the pubs. By reservation only. Five of London's most historic pubs in four hours is a blessed kind of endurance task.

Tour for Muggles Arrow

This is as delightfully bonkers as England gets. The tour starts near London Bridge Tube station and moves on to locations used in the Harry Potter films (and a couple of book locations). There's one Tube ride (London Bridge to Westminster) but otherwise it's all on foot, and a fair amount of ground is covered in 2.5 hours. Groups are capped to 20 and run the gamut from families to millennials, and even pensioners.

London Urban Adventures: Soho Historic Pubs Tour Arrow

This isn't the raucous gathering you'd expect—guests are there for the history of Soho as much as for the pubs. The two founders and guides (they will be taking on co-workers in 2018) are very knowledgeable about Soho—one was an archeologist before he took this up—and their enthusiasm shows. Rather than deliver a script to a set itinerary, they switch up their stops, tailoring the pubs they stop at to the group's interest.

Shoreditch Street Art Tours Arrow

An insider's guide to the London street art scene, with groups led by photographer and writer David Stewart who's been part of the scene for 15 years. It's all on foot, and takes 3.5 hours with a break in the middle. David is ingrained in the scene—and he'll take you past everything from Banksy works to stickers stuck on lampposts.

Walk Eat Talk Eat Arrow

The three guides who do this tour come from different backgrounds spanning writing, acting, and comedy, but all have a passion for London and know the area well. There's a set itinerary, but the guides tailor their talks to their own interests—and those of the group, of course. Forget Borough Market—this tour takes you to in-the-know places you won't have heard of, like Maltby Street Market and Jensen's Gin Distillery in Bermondsey.

SideStory Travel: The Actor's Stage Arrow

This super-curated private tour is led by Michelle Butterly, an actress who's trod the boards of the Royal Shakespeare Company and the National Theatre. It's a private tour so Theatreland is your oyster. Everything is accessible, though you should warn beforehand if you need adjustments. Anyone who loves theater or acting will love this tour.

Black History Walks: Notting Hill Arrow

This is a fascinating, professionally run tour—one of eight Black History Walks in London (the other walks include one around St Paul's and Bank). Reservations are essential; groups meet at the nearest Tube station. The tour dives deep into the background of the Notting Hill Carnival. It's also an eye-opener into a history that's far longer than many people realize.

Undiscovered London: Camden Markets and Musical Legends Tour Arrow

This is a major tour that you can just turn up for, though reservations are preferred. Led by a guide (plus a 'busker' who accompanies the tour) groups of up to 25 meet at music venue Koko, appropriately enough. The guides—drawn from a pool of 30 who work for tour agency Undiscovered London—are mostly actors, so they're good at engaging your attention.

London Loo Tour Arrow

Fittingly, you meet at Waterloo Station, beside the public toilets. From there you walk to the West End, via various public toilets—about 1.5 miles in up to two hours. Groups are capped at 20. The tour ends at an underground bar in a former public toilet. (Drinks are discounted.) People wanting to scratch a little deeper under London's surface will love this.

East End Walks Arrow

East End Walks is a collection of 15 tours run by one man, David Rosenberg. The tours are spread out across the month, but all cover the social history of the traditionally working class area. Groups are capped at 30; you meet near the Tube station. Rosenberg, whose grandparents emigrated to the East End as children, is passionate about the area and its social history—it holds the story of the working class, which is rarely told. His enthusiasm is infectious.

Royal London Full Day Experience Arrow

Context Travel calls on up to 12 experts (mainly historians) for this private tour, and everything is customized to your requirements (you get a pre-tour questionnaire). Plus, they'll pick you up from your hotel or meet you at Westminster Abbey, you're free to take a taxi if you get tired, and guides use iPads to bring things to life. Make sure to reserve at least 48 hours ahead.

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Unlock London’s Mysteries Through Our Bespoke Guided Walks Our fervent tour guides are keen to navigate you through London’s labyrinthine streets, unveiling its well-guarded secrets. Whether you’re a seasoned Londoner or a first-time visitor, our guided walks offer endless opportunities for new discoveries. Experience London in its full splendour: from awe-inspiring monuments and iconic landmarks to the subtle nuances that only locals recognise. Let’s set forth on this fascinating journey, shall we?

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Public Guided Walks in London Embark on an immersive experience as you traverse London’s eclectic neighbourhoods. These guided walks afford you the chance to uncover lesser-known facets of London, melding mainstream history with stories that are often overlooked. Perfect for locals and tourists alike, they bring London’s intriguing complexities to life. See all upcoming guided walks >>

Exclusive Private Walking Tours Our private tours offer an unparalleled intimacy, allowing us to tailor your adventure according to your interests. Traverse London’s most enthralling boroughs, from culinary havens to retail paradises, as we share exclusive insights that will enrich your exploration. Secure your personalised journey today. See all private walking tours >>

More Than Just a Leisurely Stroll Our guided walks go beyond mere sightseeing. With a meticulous focus on storytelling, we aim to peel back the layers of London’s multifarious history and vibrant present. Whether it’s a quiet sojourn through Clerkenwell’s tranquil lanes or following the footsteps of literary titans in Southwark, our mission is to provide an experience replete with deep insights.

Smartphone Photography Tours Capture London’s charm in high-resolution detail. Our smartphone photography tours provide you with the opportunity to elevate your Instagram game, while uncovering photogenic corners of the city. See all photo tours >>

Certified Tour Guides With a Wealth of Knowledge Our tour guides are not just knowledgeable; they’re passionate about sharing London’s hidden and celebrated histories. With a commitment to professional excellence and authentic enthusiasm, we promise enlightening and entertaining guided walks and private tours that will alter your perception of London.

Whether you’re a history enthusiast keen on uncharted trails or a casual tourist seeking an unforgettable day out, our guided walks are designed to offer an intricate exploration of London’s concealed history. Our tour guides are committed to making your London adventure truly memorable.

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Historic London Pub Tour

Historic london pub tour highlights.

• Royal Westminster

Royal Westminster Highlights

• St. James's Palace
• Buckingham Palace
• The Changing of the Guard **
• The Houses of Parliament
• Westminster Abbey
• 10 Downing St.
• Churchill War Rooms
• St. James's Park
• and much more!

Graffiti & Street Art

Graffiti & street art highlights.

• Whitechapel (made famous by the ‘Whitechapel Murders’ – committed by Jack the Ripper)
• Liverpool Street
• The Old Jewish Quarter

All in One Highlights

• St. Paul's Cathedral
• The Tower of London
• The Bank of England
• HMS Belfast
• London Bridge
• Tate Modern
• Millennium Bridge
• Tower Bridge
• London Monument
• River Thames
• Changing of the Guard
• Trafalgar Square
• London Underground
• Temple Church

• Harry Potter

Harry Potter Highlights

• Westminster Tube (closest tube to the Ministry of Magic as seen in The Order of the Phoenix)
• Cecil's Court (aka Diagon Alley)
• St. Paul’s (Geometrical Staircase as seen in the Prisoner of Azkaban)*
• Godwin’s Court (aka Knockturn Alley)
• The Palace Theatre (home to the ‘The Cursed Child' - the 8th story in the Harry Potter franchise) - Tickets *
• Horseguards Avenue (Ministry of Magic Staff Entrance as seen in Deathly Hallows Part 1)
• Millennium Bridge (rebuilt after the attack by the Death Eaters! (then a walk past Shakespeare's globe)
• Scotland Yard Place/Horse Guards Avenue (Ministry of Magic Visitors entrance as seen in the Order of the Phoenix and Deathly Hallows Part 1)
• Trafalgar Square (Location of the final Harry Potter film premiere)
• Downing Street (Muggle Prime Minister's Office and location of communication between the Muggle PM and the wizarding world) Note: Depending on your guide and the day/time, the tour will finish at either Leadenhall Market or Borough Market (both sites have been used as the entrance to the Leaky Cauldron (as seen in the Philosopher's Stone and Prisoner of Azkaban onwards respectively.)

WWII London

Wwii london highlights.

Just some of the locations covered...

• The ruins of Grey Friar's and the Memorial Garden
• The Barbican
• The Guildhall

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We provide a platform for professional, freelance tour guides to lead walking tours at no upfront cost, so that you may enjoy a quality sightseeing experience no matter what your budget. 

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REGULARLY SCHEDULED TOURS

• London All in One
• Brixton History, Street Art and Culture
• City of London
• Notting Hill Markets and Culture
• Shakespeare's London
• Graffiti and Street Art
• Majestic Mayfair
• Soho, Piccadilly Circus and Chinatown
• World War II
• Sunday Southbank
• Rock n' Roll
• Dark Side of London Ghost Tour
• Jack the Ripper

Food/Pub Tours Tours

• Borough Market and Maltby Street
• East London Food Tour
• City of London Historic Pubs
• Bermondsey Beer Mile
• Pub Crawl and Cockney Sing-a-Long
• Westminster auf Deutsch
• Royal Kensington
• London Christmas Lights
• Twilight on the Thames Night Tour

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• British Museum
• Covent Garden and the West End
• London Christmas Markets
• London Docks
• The Tea Tour
• The Final Journey : Execution Walk to Tyburn

AUDIO AND SELF-GUIDED LONDON TOURS

Can't make one of our guided tours?

No problem, we have recorded some of our best tour guides giving their tours and made them available to you at any time.  

Here is how it works:

• Purchase an Audio Tour
• Receive a confirmation email with details.
• Enjoy the tour(s).

Even if you don't download any tours, you will still have access to valuable information on sightseeing, eating, and playing in London.

Available Tours:

• Royal London (Westminster)
• Harry Potter Locations  (in English and en Espanol)
• Rock N Roll London
• Thames River Walk
• Royal Borough of Greenwich
• Kensington Gardens
• Public Bus #11 (temporarily rerouted - unavailable)

Private London walking tour?

We also offer our guiding services for private groups where we can guide you anywhere in London. We are also experts in the region. 

Call us or email us and we will get back to you with a timely quote.  

And much, much more

North america, united kingdom & ireland, middle east & india, asia & oceania.

Self-Guided Sightseeing Walks

If you want to see the landmarks then try The City , Seven Bridges and St. Paul’s to Big Ben . If you’re into the Royals then try Royal London . Along The Southbank is good for a leisurely stroll up the river

Along The Southbank - Take a stroll along the Southbank from the London Eye all the way to Tower Bridge, taking in views of St Paul’s and the Square Mile

The City (Square Mile) - Walk through the old City of London, past famous landmarks like the Tower of London, Tower Bridge, Royal Exchange and St Paul’s

Explore Roman London - Travel back in time to when London was still called Londinium, and see what remains can still be seen above and below ground 2

North Pole Expedition - A huge five-mile walk from Victoria all the way to the top of Primrose Hill via Regent Street, Regent’s Park and the penguins at London Zoo

Regent’s Canal to Camden - How about a leisurely walk along the Regent’s Canal, taking in Little Venice, London Zoo, and ending at arty Camden Town 2

Royal London - This walk takes you to St. James’s Palace, Buckingham Palace and Kensington Palace, and the 1,000-year-old Westminster Abbey

St. Paul’s to Big Ben - Walk from St. Paul’s to the Houses of Parliament, past lots of famous landmarks like Piccadilly Circus and Trafalgar Square

Seven Bridges - Walk down the river and cross over seven of London's most famous bridges, from Westminster Bridge all the way to Tower Bridge

West End - Explore London's theatre district with this walk around the West End, past Leicester Square, Piccadilly Circus and Covent Garden 4

Window Shopping - Walk some of London's most famous shopping streets including Oxford Street, Regent Street, Bond Street and Carnaby Street

Upcoming guided walks in London

Outdoor Adventure Game: The Case of Colombia’s Finest Every day Discover some of the city's most curious locations in this self-guided outdoor adventure game

Greenwich Ghoulish Ghost Tour! Every other Sat Explore some of the creepy streets around Greenwich and hear stories about ghoulish crimes and haunted pubs

The Beatles Walking Tour: In the footsteps of the Fab Four Every Thu Walk across the Abbey Road zebra crossing and see where the band played their final gig on the roof

Sherlock Holmes Tour -- London locations from the novels & movies Until 25 Sep 2024 Walk in the footsteps of the world's greatest fictional detective and Arthur Conan Doyle

London Bridge Ghost Tour -- Two mile guided walk Every Sat Explore the dark streets and area around London Bridge and hear some spooky ghost stories and learn about its terrifying history 2

James Bond Walking Tour Until 28 Sep 2024 Walk in the footsteps of the world's most famous secret agent and see some film locations from the James Bond movies

London walking tours

Explore London at your own pace with the Around audio tours made by expert guides

Browse London walking tours 📍

City of London - Crime and punishment, blood and guts

Riverside London - Bridges, bastions, boats, and Borough Market

Secrets of Covent Garden - The bits you may miss

Welcome to London - Westminster: power, people and politics

21 Best London Walking Tours in 2024 (ranked!)

This post contains affiliate links for which I may make a small commission to help keep the site running. You will not be charged extra for these items had you not clicked the links. Thank you for your help to keep the site running!

Ready to tour the exciting places that London has to offer?

You’ve come to the right place, as we’re going to explore the best 21 walking tours in London – all led by expert guides who want to share the beauty of this part of England and help you skip the tourist traps.

If you’re like, just cut to the chase already, then don’t worry.

The best walking tour from London is this Hidden London Gems walking tour .

It has about 170 amazing reviews, so there’s no going wrong.

London is one of the most beautiful, picturesque, and incredible parts of England filled with friendly people, local pubs, iconic landmarks, lots of exciting things to do, and more.

If you want to see what your other options are, here are 20 more tours that are definitely worth your time.

So let’s get into the list of the best walking tours in London, so you can book it already!

PS – booking in advance is highly, highly recommended, so you don’t miss out.

⏳ Don’t have time to read the whole list?

The best London walking tour is this Ultimate London Sightseeing walking tour .

Hey! Want more honest UK tips and planning advice? Click here to join my London and UK Travel Tips Facebook group , where I can answer more of your questions!

Easy Guide: Best London Walking Tours

1. ultimate london sightseeing walking tour : best walking tour in london.

⭐️  RATING:  5 out of 5 Stars, 120+ reviews | ⏳  TOUR LENGTH:  5 hours | ✔️  BOOK NOW

WHAT’S INCLUDED IN THIS TOUR

• Guided tour
• Two historic areas: London & Westminster
• 30+ London landmarks and attractions
• Interactive tour with photo ops and trivia

It’s very time-consuming to navigate London all on your own, especially because you need to plan your itinerary such that you cover all the top attractions in the city.

Luckily, this action-packed walking tour that covers London and Westminster takes care of that for you.

This tour includes over 30 sights , including Westminster Abbey, Buckingham Palace, Big Ben, and the Tower of London.

Alongside that, your guide will keep you busy with photo ops, trivia , and questions so that you don’t get bored and tell you how the city came to be and even why the arrival of Romans nearly 2000 years ago changed everything.

As part of your guided walks London, you’ll also go to St. Paul’s Cathedral , where you can learn the history of this beautiful cathedral, significant events that have happened here, and the architect responsible for something so magnificent.

Other stops include the Mansion House , one of the most iconic houses in London, the Royal Exchange Building , and the Bank of England , which also houses a gold vault worth almost £200 billion!   

2. Changing of the Guard Walking Tour in London : best guided London walks

⭐️  RATING:  5 out of 5 Stars, 170+ reviews | ⏳  TOUR LENGTH:  2-3 hours | ✔️  BOOK NOW

• Changing of the guard ceremony
• Attractions like Big Ben, Westminster Abbey, & Buckingham Palace
• Houses of Parliament

The Changing of the Guard ceremony is one of the most famous attractions of the city and attracts large crowds every time and this is one of the best walking tours in London.

It’s truly something you’d expect from London – a pomp with household cavalry and foot soldiers in bearskin hats accompanied by large bands marching towards Buckingham Palace.

As the guards go on with their historical ritual, your guide will explain all the regiments that serve the king before taking you on a sightseeing walk past numerous famous attractions, such as the Houses of Parliament , Big Ben, Clarence House, St. James’s Palace, and Westminster Abbey.

And as you go past the different attractions, your guide will feed you interesting information.

For instance, when you pass by Buckingham Palace, you’ll get a chance to take some pictures while learning about the famous palace, such as the number of rooms and the story of when a man broke into the Queen’s bedroom.

You’ll also see the Royal balcony and if the King is home.

3. Hidden London Walking Tour  

⭐️  RATING:  5 out of 5 Stars, 170+ reviews | ⏳  TOUR LENGTH:  1.5 hours | ✔️  BOOK NOW

• Local professional guide
• Small groups on these walking tours of London
• Fleet Street, Temple Church, and St Bride’s Church
• Statue of Samuel Johnson

If you’re looking for a unique way to explore London, check out this tour – it’s a great way to see the forgotten, macabre, and mysterious past of this city .

And there are lots of interesting spots too: a long-lost underground station , a church with scars from the Second World War, a medieval crypt, and the Knights Templar’s punishment cell .

This walking tour is suitable for everyone , ranging from families and small groups to all those looking for a new kind of adventure.

Plus, it has a more relaxed pace , so you’ll have a pleasant time exploring the local streets and learning about their history.

Part of your tour involves walking along Fleet Street which is famous for its newspaper industry, visiting St Bride’s Church, which inspired the wedding cake, and seeing the statue of Samuel Johnson, who’s famous for inventing the modern dictionary.

4. Jack the Ripper Walking Tour in London

⭐️  RATING:  5 out of 5 Stars, 1200+ reviews | ⏳  TOUR LENGTH:  2 hours | ✔️  BOOK NOW

• Expert guides who’ll bring the story to life
• Original photos of the location like they were when the murders took place
• Police and press reports about the crime
• Free 194-page e-book link

If you love thrillers and crime, this Jack the Ripper walking tour is something you should definitely check out – one of the best walking tour London.

While you walk down the streets, you’ll get to hear spine-chilling stories of Jack the Ripper , one of the most notorious serial killers in London.

This tour will take you down not just eerie cobbled alleyways, but also secret spots that are completely inaccessible by bus or car.

Meanwhile, you’ll get to hear insights about the unsolved crimes from 1888, learn more about the suspects, and check out the various spots in Brick Lane and Spitalfields where heinous crimes took place.

In addition to visiting the places where the murders occurred, you’ll also get to see press and police reports from the crime and even old photos.

Plus, the guide has written a book on the serial killer, so you’ll get to learn interesting facts about him.

You’ll also get an informative e-book once the tour is over! 

5. Ghastly Ghost Walking Tour in London

⭐️  RATING:  5 out of 5 Stars, 370+ reviews | ⏳  TOUR LENGTH:  2 hours | ✔️  BOOK NOW

• Local guide on these walks of London
• St. Paul’s Cathedral
• Major landmarks
• Near public transportation

Done seeing all the top tourist attractions that London has to offer?

Try something different with this ghost-walking tour , where you can learn about sinister apparitions and spooky sightings .

Throughout your tour, you’ll follow an informative guide down atmospheric alleyways and dark streets while listening to tales of the hidden history of the city and spine-chilling stories about mayhem, murder, and crime.

Your guide will also indulge you in spooky stories about specters, ghosts, and ghouls that haunt the back alleys as the sun goes down. 

This tour will also take you through major landmarks so that you can snap some pictures for your Instagram.

Other stops on the route include trendy restaurants and skyscrapers before it ends at St Paul’s Cathedral.

6. Private Custom Walking Tour: Day Tour of London

⭐️  RATING:  5 out of 5 Stars, 90+ reviews | ⏳  TOUR LENGTH:  4-8 hours | ✔️  BOOK NOW

• Private tour
• Professional & qualified Blue Badge tourist guide
• Central London pickup and drop-off
• Concierge-style service both before and after the tour

If you’re only interested in a handful of landmarks and don’t want to listen to commentary that you find boring, this private custom walking tour is the best option for you.

With this tour, you have the option of setting your itinerary and exploring London how you like on a full- or half-day private tour.

The good thing about this tour is that it lets you see only those attractions that are on your list.

Plus, your guide can tell you some more unknown corners and hidden gems of the city that you can add to your itinerary if you want to check them out.

Everything on this tour is entirely up to you, from the meeting point to the start time.

You can even decide what the tour should focus on, whether that’s food, fashion, or architecture.

And since this is a private tour, you’ll have your guide’s complete attention.

The tour also includes hotel pickup and is ideal for small groups and families.    

7. Music Walking Tour of London’s Soho : London walking tour

⭐️  RATING:  5 out of 5 Stars, 30+ reviews | ⏳  TOUR LENGTH:  2.5 hours | ✔️  BOOK NOW

• Local guide (musician)
• Small group
• Must-see musical landmarks
• Insider information about making music in the city

It’s no secret that London has a rich musical heritage , but it can be pretty tricky to find the best spots to get a chance to see the pop culture, but this is where this tour comes in.

As a part of this tour , you’ll get to see many important musical landmarks.

You’ll be guided by a local musician as you take this tour of Soho and visit some of the most iconic music monuments.

Your tour will start outside the Dominion Theatre and will take you through the famous street where the Rolling Stones recorded their very first album.

You’ll also get to see where famous artists like Bowie and Hendrix recorded their iconic albums and stop by young Mozart’s home.

Other stops on your tour include Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club, which aims to bring Ronnie Scott to life through insider anecdotes, and the Seville Theatre.

8. London: Landmarks and Harry Potter Walking Tour

⭐️  RATING:  5 out of 5 Stars, 30+ reviews | ⏳  TOUR LENGTH:  1 – 2 hours | ✔️  BOOK NOW

• Complimentary Veluba shuttle
• ‘The Wizard Walk’ walking tour
• ‘Landmarks Walking Tour’
• Audio commentary in multiple languages, including English, French, Spanish, German, and Chinese

If you’re a Harry Potter fan, you’ll love this tour , which is one of the best London walk tour and combines key landmarks of the city and sights in London that are featured in Harry Potter.

You can even divide the tour into two: a wizard tour and a landmarks tour, and spread them over two days.

This way, you won’t need to rush through all the sights.

The key sights you’ll get to see on this tour include Soho, Westminster Abbey, Big Ben, and the Houses of Parliament while learning about their history.

For instance, you’ll learn all about the history of the iconic clock tower and how the bell was damaged soon after it become operational.

You’ll also walk past many important sights, including Buckingham Palace , Parliament Square where you’ll see the statues of iconic political figures, and the UK Supreme Court .

You’ll also get access to an app that has some more self-guided tours. 

9. Historic London Pubs Private Walking Tour

⭐️  RATING:  5 out of 5 Stars, 20+ reviews | ⏳  TOUR LENGTH:  4 hours | ✔️  BOOK NOW

• Pickup from select hotels
• 6 historic pubs

England’s pub culture is something worth experiencing, and if you love beer and history, this half-day historic pub tour is perfect for you.

It’ll take you to 6 historic pubs that go as back as the Great Fire of London in 1666 as you enjoy London tours by walking.

These pubs are located in areas like the East End, Clerkenwell, and Farringdon. 

At each venue, you’ll get the chance to learn about its history and enjoy a soft drink or a small beer.

The tour is also limited to 15 people, so you’ll have a nice, small-group experience.

Let’s talk a little more about some of the stops on this tour.

There’s the Viaduct Tavern , an old Gin Palace beside an old prison with prisoner cells in cellars for those awaiting execution, and the Castle pub that is somehow connected to the Royal Family (you’ll get to learn all about it once you take this tour).

There are other exciting stops too!

10. Haunted London Pub Walking Tour

⭐️  RATING:  4.5 out of 5 Stars, 25+ reviews | ⏳  TOUR LENGTH:  2 hours | ✔️  BOOK NOW

• Local guide with a penchant for stories for this walking tours London
• Eerie locations
• Stops at pubs as per your request
• Spine-tingling tales

Are you a fan of horror?

Love visiting haunted sites?

If you answered yes to both questions, this haunted London pub walking tour should be right up your alley.

This 2-hour tour takes you through three haunted pubs while your fun and knowledgeable guide tells you chilling, spine-tingling, and frightening tales of debauchery, hauntings, and notorious murderers.

For instance, you’ll get to visit the eerie Sweeney Todd barber shop and the haunting interior of a Victorian prison.

Since this tour starts once the sun goes down, you’ll really need something to steel your nerves.

This is why along the way, you’ll get the chance to drink up some liquid courage (maybe a pint or two) so that you make it to the end of the tour.

Once you finish this tour, you’ll start seeing London in a spookier light.    

11. London Bridge Ghost Walking Tour 

⭐️  RATING:  4.5 out of 5 Stars, 20+ reviews | ⏳  TOUR LENGTH:  1.5 hours | ✔️  BOOK NOW

• An entertaining guide
• Sinister tales about the area
• 16th-century pub
• Crossroads for wandering spirits

Here’s another ghost tour for all those who love horror, where you’ll get to explore medieval London .

On this 1.5-hour walking tour of the London Bridge , you’ll learn why the bridge and the areas surrounding it are considered some of the most haunted areas of the city.

Meanwhile, your fun guide will narrate sinister stories of lawless thugs and body snatchers.

You’ll also hear tales of the inmates of the oldest prison in England and the restless souls of the ladies of the night.

Finally, your tour will end at a 16th-century pub famous for being haunted by a ‘ghost dog.’

There are other interesting things lined up for you on this tour.

For instance, you’ll learn about the different bridges in the Thames (one area is still famous as the crossroads for wandering spirits), bone-chilling deeds that took place in the oldest operating theatre in the world, and the Bishop of Winchester who really left a mark on the neighborhood. 

12. Private Sherlock Holmes Walking Tour in London  

⭐️  RATING:  5 out of 5 Stars, 20+ reviews | ⏳  TOUR LENGTH:  3 hours | ✔️  BOOK NOW

• Private guide
• Hotel pickup and drop-off
• Sherlock Holmes museum
• Filming locations for the infamous TV series

Fans of the world’s best detective and his loyal sidekick must take this Private Sherlock Holmes Walking Tour in London.

As part of this tour, you’ll be taken to the mystery-solving and crime-busting world of Dr. Watson and Sherlock Holmes.

You’ll get the chance to go to the detective’s home at 221B Baker Street and will be transported to the fictional world as soon as you step into the Sherlock Holmes Museum.

You’ll also stop at the Sherlock Holmes Store , where you can buy some Sherlock souvenirs. 

After that, you’ll follow the making of the hit TV show and visit all the iconic filming locations in Whitehall and Russell Square.

Spoiler alert: you’ll also see where Sherlock faked his death and hear entertaining stories about Martin Freeman and Benedict Cumberbatch, who make a great duo!

Throughout the tour, your guide will keep you entertained with Sherlock Holmes trivia, anecdotes, and facts.

You’ll be traveling on a comfortable mini-coach on this tour and will get personalized attention from the guide.   

13. London Police and Crime Walking Tour

⭐️  RATING:  5 out of 5 Stars, 19+ reviews | ⏳  TOUR LENGTH:  2 hours | ✔️  BOOK NOW

• Kit and equipment
• Opportunity to examine historic items of police regalia
• Former police officer as your guide
• Top sights including Trafalgar Square and Scotland Yard

Explore a completely new side of London with this policing and crime-themed tour guided by a former officer with both detective and uniform experience.

Choose whether you want to start the tour in the morning or afternoon and meet up with your guide in Covent Garden to get started.

You’ll visit lots of landmarks on this tour, including New Scotland Yard (where policing was invested) and Trafalgar Square.

You’ll also stop by a Sherlock Holmes-themed pub at Northumberland Avenue.

Other stops include Bow Street (where the Magistrates Court is located), Covent Garden (famous for its gin-soaked history) , Charing Cross (where you’ll hear tales of mayhem and murder), and St. James’s Park (where there’s a National Police Memorial for fallen officers).

At the end of the tour, you’ll know the city’s lesser-known history of crime and insider stories about police work. 

14. Historic Pub Walking Tour of London

⭐️  RATING:  5 out of 5 Stars, 17+ reviews | ⏳  TOUR LENGTH:  4 hours | ✔️  BOOK NOW

• Historic guided tour on one of the best walking tours in London
• Knowledgeable local tour guide
• Entry into 4 historic pubs
• Customizable itinerary

Here’s another tour to explore some of the most historic pubs that the city has to offer while you enjoy a local beverage and mingle with fellow pub enthusiasts and travelers.

This London pub tour will take you to four centuries-old ale houses and pubs that are closely related to the culture and history of the city.

You’ll go to pubs that were frequented by not just the Queens and Kings of England, but also influential and iconic figures, including Dick Turpin, Sir Arthur Conan Doyle , Nelle Gwynne, Oliver Cromwell, and Charles Dickens .

A local tour guide will guide you throughout the tour as you go to important pubs, walk through secret streets , and learn about the city’s history and its important landmarks such as Covent Garden, St James’s Palace, Shaftesbury Avenue, Pall Mall, and Trafalgar Square. 

All in all, this tour is a great way to explore London and its historic pubs.

15. Historic London City Walking Tour

⭐️  RATING:  5 out of 5 Stars, 16+ reviews | ⏳  TOUR LENGTH:  2-3 hours | ✔️  BOOK NOW

• Guided tour of the city
• Personalized experience
• Top landmarks that London has to offer
• Additional bonus stops

History buffs will absolutely love this historic London city walking tour .

This small group tour starts in the afternoon and will take you through the oldest neighborhood of the city.

You’ll meet your guide at St. Paul’s Cathedral , and after taking some pictures and learning about its history, you’ll set off on your tour.

The landmarks you’ll get to see on this tour include the Bank of England and its iconic Gold Vault , London Bridge, the Tower of London, Borough Market , and the Monument (for the Great Fire).

You’ll pass by the Mansion House, the Royal Exchange Building, and the Shard, the tallest building in the UK.

Other stops include City Hall and Leadenhall Market, a 700-year-old market that’s also used in the Harry Potter movies . 

The tour also includes a very informative history lesson.

You’ll learn about the significant events that have occurred throughout history, such as the Great Fire of London .

16. London Witches and History Walking Tour : London city walking tours

⭐️  RATING:  5 out of 5 Stars, 14+ reviews | ⏳  TOUR LENGTH:  1 hour 15 minutes | ✔️  BOOK NOW

• Costumed in-character guide
• Fascinating and chilling history of the city
• Famous filming locations from Harry Potter

London’s history is laced with witches, and what better way to learn more about them than this London witches and history walking tour ?

This tour will familiarize you with the wicked history of the city and take you to famous sights as well as hidden gems.

To further add to the authenticity of the tour, you’ll be guided by a costumed witch who will keep you entertained with historical facts, unexpected tales of real-life witches , and the injustices they were subjected to.

To kick off the tour, you’ll meet your witch guide and your coven at a quiet space right behind Southwark Cathedral , learn the theme of the adventure, and listen to the first witch-related tale of the night.

As you proceed with the tour, you’ll learn the truth about different witches, including John Peterson or the Witch of Wapping, Jinny Bingham or Mother Damnable, and the Last Witch.

Along the way, you might even get to visit some Harry Potter filming locations.

17. London Walks – 12 Self-Guided Audio Walking Tours

⭐️  RATING:  5 out of 5 Stars, 10+ reviews | ⏳  TOUR LENGTH:  1 – 6 hours | ✔️  BOOK NOW

• Access to a self-guided audio tour
• Offline mode for when you don’t have Wi-Fi
• Instagram hotspots for the perfect pictures
• Location-aware so that you don’t get lost

If you’d rather explore the city on your own without having to follow behind a tour guide in a group, then what you’re looking for is a self-guided tour and there’s nothing better than this London Walks tour , a series of 12 immersive, self-guided audio walking tours.

While you walk around the different sites and explore the city your way, you’ll be accompanied by the knowledge of hipsters, storytellers, and local historians.

For instance, with the Westminster or Royal London tours, you’ll get to visit iconic landmarks like Big Ben, explore sites like Kew Gardens (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), discover lively neighborhoods like Shoreditch, Notting Hill, and Brixton, and stop at the hottest Instagram spots like Soho.

Plus, you can download the tours in advance and listen to them without Wi-Fi.

This way, you don’t need to spend money on roaming.

18. The Beatles London Walking Tour

⭐️  RATING:  5 out of 5 Stars, 10+ reviews | ⏳  TOUR LENGTH:  2.5 hours | ✔️  BOOK NOW

• Professional guide on these walking tours around London
• Lots of fun Beatles stories
• Locations central to the history of the band
• Legendary Beatles’ locations

Fans of The Beatles who wish to walk in their idols’ footsteps should take this Beatles London Walking tour .

This Beatles-themed tour takes you through the different locations in London that are central to the mythology and history of the band.

As part of the tour, you’ll walk across Abbey Road , see Abbey Road studios, travel to where ‘A Hard Day’s Night’ was filmed , and where different album covers were shot.

You’ll also get to visit Sir Paul McCartney’s home and other locations pivotal to the band, such as the place where ‘Yesterday’ was composed, where Yoko and John met, and the place where the term Beatlemania came into being.

Other stops include Blue Plaque: John Lennon, the house where Yoko and John lived , Marylebone, the registry office where two of the four Beatles married thrice, and Kingly Street where Paul met Linda for the very first time.  

The tour also includes lots of trivia that might even surprise hardcore Beatles fans!  

19. Magical Christmas Walking Tour in London : best London walking tours

⭐️  RATING:  5 out of 5 Stars, 7+ reviews | ⏳  TOUR LENGTH:  2 hours | ✔️  BOOK NOW

• Wi-Fi onboard
• London’s winter transformation
• Festive sights
• Lots and lots of iconic Christmas lights

Christmas is definitely the most wonderful time of the year, and there’s no better way to enjoy the festive season than with this Magical Christmas Walking Tour.

This Iheartlondontour is filled with lots of fun, and there’s a reason it came into being.

Lots of people that come to London during the cold winter months don’t fully enjoy the Christmas joy that the city has to offer.

This tour is a great way to showcase how spirited and totally unforgettable Christmas in this city can be.   

As you go about this tour, you’ll notice how London completely transforms in the winter and see new things, unexplored paths, and wonderful sights without having to spend an exuberant amount.

Your tour will start from Charing Cross Station.

From here, you’ll move on to see more amazing sights, including the London Palladium (a high-class shopping district), Carnaby Soho lights , Piccadilly Circus, and the iconic Regent Street Christmas Lights .

20. Shakespeare Walking Tour in London

⭐️  RATING:  4.5 out of 5 Stars, 7+ reviews | ⏳  TOUR LENGTH:  3 hours 15 minutes | ✔️  BOOK NOW

• Globe Theatre in-house tour for this walk tour London
• Interesting stories of Shakespeare
• Lively South Bank

Take this walking tour of central London and retrace the footsteps of the famous William Shakespeare .

You’ll get to visit the South Bank (the “Las Vegas” of London where activities like theatre and bull-baiting legally took place) and get an in-house tour of Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre.

You’ll also get to see where the original theatre, as well as its competitor, Rose Theatre, is located.

Other attractions on this tour include the Anchor Pub , the Golden Hinde (the life-size model of the original Golden Hinde that was used by Sir Francis Drake to sail around the globe in 1577), the Winchester Palace (see the ruins here), and the Shakespeare-stained glass window present at Southwark Cathedral.

You’ll also stop by the Harvard University chapel and the famous Borough Market that dates back to Elizabethan times.

And while you marvel at all these sites, your tour guide will keep you entertained with stories about Shakespeare.

21. London River Cruise & Westminster Walking Tour 

⭐️  RATING:  5 out of 5 Stars, 5+ reviews | ⏳  TOUR LENGTH:  4 hours | ✔️  BOOK NOW

• Thames cruise ticket
• Local fun guide
• Top 20 sights of Westminster
• Small group tour for a personalized experience

This half-day tour combines a walking tour of the city with a sightseeing cruise of the Thames River and takes you through the most famous landmarks of the city.

While you walk down the streets and past attractions like Westminster Abbey, Big Ben, Trafalgar Square, and Buckingham Palace, your guide will keep you entertained with live commentary .

In total, the walking tour covers 20 sights.

So in addition to the attractions above, other stops include the Changing of the Guard, St James Palace, Queen Victoria Fountain Green Park, Admiralty Arch, Whitehall, and Downing Street.

Once the walking tour is completed, you’ll be dropped off at the Thames River cruise, which lets you explore London from a different perspective.

The cruise starts from the Westminster Pier and goes to the Tower Bridge Pier.  

And since this is a small tour , limited to just 15 participants, you’ll get more personalized attention from your tour guide.

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• 11 Best Oxford Walking Tours
• 11 Best London Rock ‘n’ Roll Tours
• 11 Best Beatles Tours in London
• 11 Best London Museum Tours
• 3 Best Morse Tours in Oxford
• 11 Best Walking Tours in Bath
• 13 Best Harry Potter Tours in Oxford
• 11 Best Jack the Ripper Tours in London
• 9 Best London Literary Tours
• 9 Best Street Art Tours in London
• 13 Best Evening & Night Tours of Edinburgh
• 15 Best London Pub Crawl Tours
• 11 Best London Bus Tours for Families
• 17 Best Harry Potter Tours in London
• 17 Best London Foodie Tours
• 13 Best Ghost & Haunted Tours in Edinburgh
• 11 Best Edinburgh Walking Tours
• 11 Best Private Tours in London
• 11 Best Ghost Tours in London
• 11 Fun Tours of Royal London
• 13 Isle of Skye Tours for a Magical Time
• 13 Mysterious Tours of Loch Ness
• 7 Best James Bond Tours in London
• 7 Best Paris Tours from London
• 7 Best Stratford-upon Avon Tours from London
• 7 Best Tours of Bath from London
• 7 Best Black Cab Tours from London
• 11 Best Downton Abbey Tours in the UK
• 5 Best Graffiti Tours in London
• 9 Best London East End Tours

UK Travel Planning Guide: the FAQs

🏥 Should I buy UK travel insurance?

Absolutely yes. Basic coverage is not expensive, and as a visitor you are NOT covered under the NHS. Compare policies and prices with Travel Insurance Master here , a big name in the travel insurance business, and cross that off your list.

🔌 Do I need travel adapters for the UK?

Yes, you do, otherwise you won’t be able to plug in your electronics/phone/lifelines. I recommend this one , which is all-in-one so you can use it in other countries.

🚗 What do I need to drive in the UK?

The first thing you need to check out if you’re planning on renting a car in the UK is this guide to driving in the UK for visitors – the roads, signs, and driving experience will likely not be what you’re used to and it’s essential to prepare yourself to stay safe and aware.

🛌 What’s the best way to book hotels in the UK?

For UK hotels, Booking is the best site as it offers free cancellation on many properties. If you want an apartment, I always recommend VRBO over AirBnb.

📳 Will my phone work in the UK?

Yes – if you set it up right. Check out my guide on making your foreign phone work in the UK to ensure that you get the type of service you need.

🚿 Can I drink the water in the UK?

Yes, UK water is great and perfectly safe. But drink out of taps in any kitchen or use water fountains. Double check before drinking out of the taps in hotel bathrooms, though, as they may be on a different system. London water is safe to drink .

Heading to London? Want the best tips?

Check out my Ultimate Guide to London for Visitors. Using text, images and video, this guide is packed full of tips, tricks, safety advice, knowledge on how to get around and what to do, and more!

Moving to the UK or already an Expat?

Grab my book which covers moving to the UK, struggles I faced and that you might face too, and uplifting advice to help you along the way! Available in hard copy and on Kindle.

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WALKING TOURS & ACTIVITIES IN LONDON

• Food and Drink Tours
• PRIVATE TOURS

Free Tour of London

Book the original London free walking tour and visit many of the city's highlights with a local guid ...

London Soho Free Walking Tour

Discover the vibrant heartbeat of Soho by embarking on an unforgettable tour through London's iconic ...

London Old City Free Walking Tour

Discover major London landmarks on this 3-hour London Old City Tour!

London Jack the Ripper Free Tour

Discover London’s darkest history – including Jack the Ripper – on this 2-hour walking tour

London Historic Pubs Tour

Learn about the history of Beer and London at some of the city's oldest establishments on this 3-hou ...

2-hour London Highlights Private Tour

Make the most out of your visit and discover London's main attractions with your private tour guide

3-hour London Private City Tour

Enjoy a comprehensive overview of London's fascinating history and must-see sites with your private ...

Tell us the landmarks, stories or parts of the city you want to see, how long you have to see them and when you want to go, and we’ll build an itinerary that suits you.

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Discover the many faces of London with a passionate local guide

From its rich history, beautiful streets, fantastic shopping and cultural richness, London has something for everyone. With so much to see and do, let some of the best local tour guides make sure you don’t miss out on the best London has to offer!

The original gratuity-based Free Tour of London  covers many of London’s top attractions including the Big Ben, Buckingham Palace, the Houses of Parliament and Westminster Abbey. After you’ve got the overview with the gratuity-based free walking tour, delve deeper with us!

Discover one of the unmissable museums in London with the British Museum Tour which covers all the museum’s highlights.

Explore the  Old City  and see the Tower of London, St Paul’s Cathedral and Tower Bridge. Don’t miss the chance to visit the East End with the Street Art Tour , which takes you to different parts of Shoreditch, including Brick Lane, to see street art and other gems away from the popular sites. If you’d like to discover the most enchanted side of London, the Harry Potter Tour shows you both famous and lesser know film locations. In the evening, join our  Grim Reaper Tour and retrace the steps the infamous Jack the Ripper.

If you want to escape the city for a day, why not try our  day trip to Oxford ? The tour to Oxford will take you through one of UK’s most beautiful cities.

And if you are looking for a party… join us for one of the best pub crawls in Central London.

Enjoy authentic local experiences

London is part of the SANDEMANs NEW Europe network, one of the largest walking tour companies in the world. Offering daily tours in English and Spanish, we believe in supporting local communities and are committed to giving a voice to some of London's best local freelance tour guides, who passionately share the city's history and culture with their own unique and always-entertaining style.

Aside from the gratuity-based Free Tour, in London you’ll also find unforgettable tours and experiences. We’re looking forward to seeing you soon!

Tours & activities across Europe, Israel & USA

• Over 2 million guests per year
• Over 160,000 five-star reviews
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• Top quality tours with local guides, whatever your budget

Things to do in London

Ready to start exploring London? Check out these useful tips and don't miss any of the city's main attractions

The best accommodation in town

Finding the right place to stay can be tricky - that's why we have sorted you out with a list of our favourite hostels and hotels in London

The best places to eat in London

Don't fall into any tourist trap! Here's a list of the top places to eat in London recommended by locals

The greatest bars in the city

Discover our selection of popular spots among the locals to taste from traditional beer to delicious cocktails

The best shopping in London

Find everything you are looking for with this guide to the best shops, markets and shopping streets in London

The local expert guides we work with are proud to show you the best London has to offer!

Scroll through to learn more about these unforgettable guides, including where they’re from, why they love London and which tours they can offer you.

Participation in tours promoted by SANDEMANs NEW Europe is strictly on a voluntary basis. Neither SANDEMANs NEW Europe, nor the self-employed freelance guides who are the providers of the tours promoted by SANDEMANs NEW Europe, will be held responsible in any way for injuries to body or property incurred during tours. The tour guides reserve the right to deny participation in any tour, to any person, for any reason. Thank you for your understanding.

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Walks and tours london events in London, United Kingdom

Walking Tour - London's Luxury Hotels

Sat, May 11, 11:00 AM

TOP OF THE STAIRS, EXIT 2, HYDE PARK CORNER UNDERGROUND STATION

City of London - Pay What You Can Walking Tour - London

Thu, May 9, 10:30 AM + 20 more

Paternoster Square Column

Walking Tour - Beneath London's Streets

Mon, May 20, 2:30 PM

Tower Hill Station

Medieval London Walking Tour

Sat, May 18, 1:00 PM + 3 more

Cannon Street Station

Jack London’s Edwardian London Walking Tour

Sun, May 12, 1:00 PM

Waterloo Station

Walking Tour - Victorian London

Wed, May 22, 10:00 AM

London Metropolitan Archives

Greenwich London Walking Tour

Saturday at 1:00 PM + 2 more

Greenwich Tourist Information Centre

Walking Tour - The Heights of London - Croydon

Mon, Jun 3, 2:00 PM

Sanderstead Station

Mon, Jul 8, 2:30 PM

Walking Tour - The Heights of London - Greenwich

Mon, Jul 1, 2:00 PM

Falconwood Station

Queer City: London Walking Tour 11.05.24

Sat, May 11, 10:30 AM

The Criterion Theatre

Walking Tour - Islington - London's Larder

Wed, May 29, 5:00 PM

Angel Tube Station

London History Day Walking Tour

Wed, May 29, 12:00 PM

Southwark Tube Station

Queer City: London Walking Tour 01.06.24

Sat, Jun 1, 10:30 AM

Drink, Death & Debauchery: A Walking Tour of London

Sat, May 25, 11:00 AM

Dominion Theatre

British Empire Walking Tour in London Westminster: Spring Holiday Weekend

Sun, May 26, 11:00 AM

Churchill Statue

Walking Tour - Geoffrey Fletcher's City of London

Sun, Jun 16, 2:00 PM

Blackfriars station

British Empire Walking Tour in London Westminster: May Bank Holiday Weekend

Monday at 11:00 AM

Walking Tour - Diverse London - Art and Refugees in Hampstead

Sat, May 18, 1:30 PM

wagamama hampstead

London peace walking tour

Thu, May 16, 2:00 PM + 2 more

Green Park underground station

Things to do around London

Trends in london, 3 . comedy show, 4 . magical lantern festival, 5 . sample sale, 6 . rave party, 7 . job fair, 8 . bollywood, 10 . free kids, 11 . eid in the park, 12 . stand up comedy.

Rock n Roll London Walking Tour

Love Classic Rock?   Want to see the places that helped shape rock music? Come along and join our Rock n Roll London Walking Tour.  Many of the greatest rock ‘n’ roll legends of all time have lived, performed and died in London. As the beating heart of Britain’s music industry, musicians and singer-songwriters flocked to our capital to make their name. From Rock to Blues, Pop to Punk, some of the biggest names in music have left their mark on this city. So join us to remember some of the greatest moments in popular music as we explore Rock ‘n’ Roll landmarks at the historic heart of the British music industry in Soho.

Tour Highlights

• See the home of British Rock and Roll
• Hear about the auditions that were held in the old Bricklayers Arms pub for a new band … The Rolling Stones
• Walk down London’s famous Tin Pan Alley
• See real locations that feature in song lyrics
• Visit Carnaby Street, home of the Swinging 60s
• See where Bohemian Rhapsody and many other classic rock tracks were recorded

No Rock n Roll London Walking Tour would be complete without visiting Soho. This alternative and quirky corner of London has been home to the British entertainment industry for decades. Over the years it has hosted some of the most iconic recording studios, gig venues, pub hangouts, theatres, music instrument shops and more.

The tour will start off at Tin Pan Alley this street was once the hub of Britain’s music industry. Elton John, David Bowie, the Kinks, Rolling Stones, Sex Pistols and many, many more each have a story to tell about this street. For decades this was home, in some cases literally, to London’s music scene.

Naturally, the tour will take you to the venues where many Rock-Gods first cut their teeth and developed their sound. These clubs include the former Marquee Club, often dubbed the most important venue in the history of modern pop music. You’ll also pass by the world-famous Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club, a Mecca for jazz musicians. The club’s founder, Ronnie Scott was awarded an OBE for ‘services to jazz’ and this buzzing venue is still the place to go to see rising stars in the music industry.

During the tour, you’ll find out that show business isn’t always glamorous. As Led Zeppelin found out at their first rehearsal in a hot, cramped basement rammed with amplifiers. You’ll also be shown where Mick Jagger and John Lennon spent some time behind bars.

Many locals will walk past unassuming little doors, hidden down alleys, and squeezed in between shops, unaware that some of the greatest records of all time were recorded in the studios within. Fortunately, your trusty guide will be sure to point them out to you.

“Soho has always encapsulated Rock ’n’ Roll so Carnaby Street was the perfect spot for our own store.” If Carnaby Street is good enough for the Rolling Stones, then it’s good enough for us to visit on our tour. From the Swinging 60s to the New Romantics, Carnaby Street has attracted the Carnabetian Army.

Throughout the Rock n Roll London Walking Tour, you’ll be entranced by anecdotes about some of the biggest names in music including the Who, Jimi Hendrix, Queen, T-Rex, The Beatles, The Rolling Stones, Tina Turner, the Smiths, and more …

What’s Included

• 2 hour walking tour of London’s Soho
• Knowledgeable, approachable & fun tourist guide

What’s Excluded

• Food & drink

What To Bring

• Consider layers of clothing
• Comfortable shoes for a leisurely walking tour

Good To Know

• The tour does not go into any of the buildings/ venues.
• English language tour

How long is the route?

• The tour is approximately 1.2  miles long .

Is the tour wheelchair accessible?

• The tour is not suitable for a wheelchair due to the pavements and uneven surfaces on the route. British Sign Language is not provided on the tour.

Do children need to be accompanied?

• All people under 18 (i.e. 17 years old and younger) must be accompanied by an adult (aged 18 years or over) on all tours

Is the tour suitable for children?

Take a look at our TripAdvisor page or leave us a review. We love hearing from you!

Related tours.

George Michael London Tour by Black Taxi

Liverpool Music Icons Tour

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Andrew Garfield Is Ultra-Handsome While in London, Plus Sydney Sweeney, Selena Gomez, Rosamund Pike and More

From Hollywood to New York and everywhere in between, see what your favorite stars are up to

Alexandra Schonfeld is a features writer at PEOPLE. She has been working at PEOPLE since April 2022. Her work previously appeared in Newsweek .

Stars have been everywhere this week, from Andrew Garfield looking spiffy in London to Sydney Sweeney 's fresh-faced touchdown in Mexico. Rosamund Pike and Daniel Henney are in high spirits while in L.A. as Selena Gomez is sunkissed in New York City.

Here, the best photos of celebs out and about this week. Come back tomorrow for more of the latest A-list outings!

A Dapper Gentleman

Neil Mockford/GC Images

Andrew Garfield looks ultra-handsome as he arrives to the National Theatre's Up Next Gala in London on May 1.

Terrific Twosome

Jordan Strauss/January Images

Rosamund Pike and Daniel Henney smile wide at The Wheel of Time 's Emmys FYC Event at Prime Video's Prime Experience on April 30 in L.A.

Fresh-Faced Beauty

Victor Chavez/Shutterstock

Sydney Sweeney smiles and waves to photographers as she steps off the plane at the International Mexico City Airport on May 1.

Gotham/GC Images

A radiant Selena Gomez enjoys the warm New York weather while in the Concrete Jungle on May 1.

Seeing Double

IMAGO/Jeffrey Mayer

One of Ryan Gosling 's stunt doubles makes a breakthrough appearance at The Fall Guy premiere on April 30 in Los Angeles.

Empire State of Mind

Also basking in the warm New York weather is Bella Hadid who is all smiles while out and about in the city on May 1.

Jose Perez/Bauer-Griffin/GC Images

Will Estes , Len Cariou , Bridget Moynahan , Tom Selleck and Donnie Wahlberg take a moment to pose for a pic while on the set of Blue Bloods in Greenpoint, Brooklyn on May 1.

Christopher Peterson / SplashNews

Jon Stewart is seen leaving the Greenwich Hotel after interviewing Queen Noor in New York City on May 1.

Fashion Star

Ever chic, Rita Ora looks super stylish while in Tribeca, N.Y. on May 1.

Keeping It Low Key

TheImageDirect.com

Katie Holmes is spotted in a casual getup while on a coffee run in New York City May 1.

Draped in All-Black

David Krieger/Bauer-Griffin/GC Images

Nicky Hilton keeps things simple in an all-black ensemble as she runs some errands in New York on May 1.

A New York Minute

Raymond Hall/GC Images

Zoe Saldaña takes a moment to sign some autographs for supporters while in SoHo, New York on May 1.

Serving Face

Jason Sean Weiss/BFA.com/Shutterstock 

Selma Blair channels her inner model as she poses in a photo booth at a Jimmy Choo cocktail party celebrating the summer 2024 eyewear collection in Beverly Hills on April 30.

Basking in the Fun

Jon Kopaloff/Getty

Ryan Gosling and Mikey Day bring back their Beavis and Butt-Head SNL costumes while at the premiere of The Fall Guy in Hollywood on April 30.

Poised and Proper

Axelle/Bauer-Griffin/FilmMagic

Also at The Fall Guy premiere, Gosling's costar Emily Blunt opts to keep her red carpet look classic and chic as she heads into the Dolby Theater on April 30.

Hometown Premiere

Brendon Thorne/Getty

Furiosa: A Mad Max Saga stars Anya Taylor-Joy and Chris Hemsworth touchdown for a photo call for the film in Sydney, Australia on May 1. 

Colorful Lady

Steve Granitz/FilmMagic

Melissa McCarthy is spring-ready while attending the L.A. premiere of Netflix's Unfrosted on April 30.

Special Appearance

Mike Marsland/WireImage

Lupita Nyong'o is joined by an adorable four-legged friend at the photo call for A Quiet Place: Day One in London on May 1.

New York's Finest

STARTHESTAR/SplashNews

Cardi B is super stylish while arriving at the New York Knicks vs. Philadelphia 76ers basketball game at Madison Square Garden on April 30.

Lady in Blue

Gilbert Flores/Variety via Getty

Hannah Waddingham stuns in a bright blue pantsuit at The Fall Guy premiere on April 30 in L.A.

Forever Lovebirds

Charley Gallay/Getty

Jay Leno and his wife Mavis cuddle up while at the Unfrosted premiere at the Egyptian Theatre on April 30 in Los Angeles.

Blake Shelton and Gwen Stefani make a fine couple while at the Los Angeles premiere of The Fall Guy at Dolby Theatre in Hollywood on April 30.

Crowd Commander

Samir Hussein/Getty

Olivia Rodrigo is playful while performing live at the 3 Arena on April 30 in Dublin. 

Let's Go!

Jon Stewart and Ben Stiller are on their feet while watching the game between the New York Knicks and the Philadelphia 76ers at Madison Square Garden on April 30.

A Family Affair

Amy Sussman/Getty

It's a family affair for Jerry and Jessica Seinfeld who walked the Unfrosted carpet with their kids Julian Kal, Shepherd Kellen and Sascha Seinfeld on April 30 in L.A.

In Londontown

Ricky Vigil M/Justin E Palmer/GC Images

Chrishell Stause , Emma Hernan and G Flip are in high spirits while leaving the Chrishell Stause — Talk event held at The London Palladium on April 30.

At the Theater

Bruce Glikas/WireImage

Rosie O'Donnell poses backstage at The Who's Tommy on Broadway at The Nederlander Theatre on April 30 in New York City.

Costars and Friends

Dave Benett/WireImage

Baby Reindeer stars Jessica Gunning and Richard Gadd are all smiles while attending the gala screening of Love Lies Bleeding at the Prince Charles Cinema on April 30 in London.

On the Move

Trevor Noah is cool and low key while out and about in New York City on April 30.

Gracious Guest

Todd Owyoung/NBC via Getty

Tiger Woods waves to the audience as he appears on The Tonight Show with Jimmy Fallon on April 30.

Stylish in the City

Zayn Malik is super stylish while walking around Midtown, New York on April 30.

Jason Sean Weiss/BFA.com/Shutterstock

Lori Harvey rocks a sleek look while at the Jimmy Choo cocktail party celebrating the summer 2024 eyewear collection in Beverly Hills on April 30.

Rosalia rocks an edgy ensemble while out and about in Tribeca, New York on April 30.

New York Minute

Bradley Cooper steps out in shades on a warm New York City afternoon on April 30.

Zach Hilty/BFA.com/Shutterstock

Glenn Close opts for a timeless look at the Ralph Lauren fashion show in New York City on April 29.

Kevin Winter/Getty

John Mayer shows his support for Sammy Hagar as he is honored with a star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame on April 30.

Theater Fans

Jenny Anderson/Getty

Renée Elise Goldsberry and Jesse Tyler Ferguson host the Tony Award Nominations Live from Sofitel New York on April 30.

Special Visit

OLI SCARFF/POOL/AFP via Getty

Prince William visits 2022 Earthshot Prize Finalist Low Carbon Materials in Seaham, England on April 30.

Royal Outing

Max Mumby/Indigo/Getty

On the same day, Prince William's father King Charles makes a visit to the University College Hospital Macmillan Cancer Centre with Queen Camilla .

Craig Barritt/Getty

Halle and Chloe Bailey celebrate their partnership with Core Hydration at the Refreshing Routines Event on April 30 at Aire Ancient Baths in N.Y.C.

Kristy Sparow/Getty

Lupita Nyong'o steps out for a photo call at Shangri-La Hotel Paris for A Quiet Place: Day One on April 30.  

Zipping Around

Keri Russell takes advantage of the warm weather as she heads out for a bike ride in New York City on April 29.

Triple Threat

Stephen Lovekin/Shutterstock

Tony Goldwyn , Bobby Cannavale and Robert De Niro pose together during a special screening of Ezra in New York City on April 29.

Making Rounds

Joe Manganiello and Caitlin O'Connor stop by for an appearance on Watch What Happens Live in New York City this week.

Brooks Running/Aisha McAdams

Jeremy Renner throws on his Brooks sneakers and gear as he heads for a run.

In Disguise

Chris Hemsworth looks unrecognizable on the set of a star-studded commercial for Clash of the Clans Squad on April 29.

Lots of Feathers

Also on set, Ken Jeong has some fun in a chicken suit while filming the Clash of the Clans Squad commercial on April 29.

Top of the Morning

Justin Hartley opts for a blue striped suit for an appearance at CBS Studios on Tuesday morning in New York City.

Crowd Pleaser

BabiradPicture/Shutterstock

Will.i.am and Taboo of the Black Eyed Peas hit the stage during the Top of Mountain Closing Concert on April 30 in Ischgl, Austria.

Buttoned Up

Emma McIntyre/Getty

Sandra Lee and Bob Mackie pose together at the Daily Front Row's Fashion Los Angeles Awards at the Beverly Hills Hotel on April 28.

Lights, Camera

Timothée Chalamet is in character as Bob Dylan on the set of A Complete Unknown on April 29 in Newark, New Jersey. 

Taylor Hill/FilmMagic

Gabrielle Union and Anne Hathaway celebrate the New York City premiere of The Idea of You on April 29 at Jazz at Lincoln Center.

Spring Is Here

Karwai Tang/WireImage

King Charles holds on to a bouquet of pink flowers following a visit to the University College Hospital Macmillan Cancer Centre on April 30 in London.

Strike a Pose

Lexie Moreland/WWD via Getty

Jodie Turner-Smith rocks a wide-brimmed hat for the Ralph Lauren runway show on April 29 in New York City.

Good to Glow

Also at the star-studded show, Glenn Close and Jessica Chastain pose together with matching silver bags from their seats on April 29.

Personal Style

Christopher Peterson/SplashNews

Charli XCX sports an all-black look for an appearance on Watch What Happens Live in New York City on April 29.

Streaming Star

Matt Winkelmeyer/Getty

Jennifer Connelly steps out for the premiere of Dark Matter at Hammer Museum in L.A. on April 29.

New York Nights

Jamie McCarthy/Getty

Cynthia Erivo and Chris Pine pose together at the 49th Chaplin Award Gala honoring Jeff Bridges at Lincoln Center in New York City on April 29.

Sweet Serenade

Arturo Holmes/Getty

Fantasia performs in a feathered ensemble during the New York Pops 41st Birthday Gala honoring Clive Davis on April 29 in New York City.

Man of the Hour

L. Busacca/Getty 

The night's honoree, Clive Davis , poses with Martha Stewart during the gala at Carnegie Hall in New York City on April 29.

London Look

Dave Benett/Getty

Rita Ora poses at the launch of Typebea at Sephora West on April 30 in London.

In Character

Christian Bale and Jessie Buckley are spotted on the set of The Bride in New York City on April 29.

Ready to Go

RB/Bauer-Griffin/GC Images

Emily Blunt looks chic as she stops by Jimmy Kimmel Live! in L.A. on April 29.

Date Night Smiles

Susan Bridges and honoree Jeff Bridges pose together at the 49th Chaplin Award Gala at Lincoln Center in New York City on April 29.

Sparkle and Shine

Rebel Wilson sports shimmering sleeves while out for dinner following her show in London on April 29.

Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty 

Robert De Niro addresses the crowd for a screening of Ezra at SVA Theater in New York City on April 29.

Todd Williamson/Amazon

Nicole Kidman and Lulu Wang attend the Expats Emmys FYC event at Prime Experience at NYA WEST in L.A. on April 28.

Signed, Sealed, Delivered

Sharon Stone signs some autographs during the 49th Chaplin Award Gala honoring Jeff Bridges at Lincoln Center in New York City on April 29.

Off to the Races

Steven Ferdman/Getty

Rauw Alejandro and Lewis Hamilton pose together at WhatsApp and Mercedes-AMG Petronas F1's Empire State Building viewing party on April 29 at Virgin Hotels in New York City.

Back to Work

Pedro Pascal is handsome in neutrals while on the set of The Materialists in New York City on April 29.

Feeling Pink

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‘I Will Never Forget Any of It’: Brittney Griner Is Ready to Talk

In an interview, the basketball star reveals her humiliation — and friendships — in Russian prison, and her path to recovery.

Credit... Mickalene Thomas for The New York Times

Supported by

By J Wortham

J Wortham is a staff writer for the magazine. They interviewed the basketball star over a weekend in Phoenix, Ariz.

• May 2, 2024

On the March afternoon when I met Brittney Griner in Phoenix, the wildflowers were in peak efflorescence, California poppies and violet cones of lupine exploding everywhere. Griner was in bloom too. She was practicing with some local ballers brought in by her W.N.B.A. team, the Mercury, to prepare its players for the start of the season in May. On the court, Griner was loose, confident, trading jokes with the other players between runs. She snatched a pass out of the air, drove it hard in the paint and pulled up to shoot, the ball kissing the net as it sailed through. Everyone, including Nate Tibbetts, the Mercury’s newly hired head coach, who dropped by to watch, erupted in cheers. Griner nodded to herself in quiet satisfaction, keeping her head down as she jogged back to run the play again.

Listen to this article, read by January LaVoy

Less than two years ago, Griner was starting her nine-year sentence in a penal colony in Russia, sewing uniforms for the Russian military and subsisting on spoiled food. She lived for glimpses of the sky, which she could see only through weathered rebar when the guards took prisoners outside. She had never been further from the sport that made her a household name. She could barely get through multiple rounds of horse, her lung capacity shot from smoking so many cigarettes. She rarely got to hear from her wife, Cherelle, or her family and friends, and she had no idea when — or if — she would be coming home.

When, after 10 months in Russia, she was finally released, she jumped back into playing, thinking the routine and familiarity would ground her back in herself and her life. But the transition was rocky. All last season, she was plagued by injuries and insecurities. The confidence of being one of the W.N.B.A.’s most powerful “bigs” had evaporated. It got so bad that she took a midseason leave. “I don’t feel like I really got my body back until right now,” she told me in Phoenix. “When I look back at the videos, it’s cringe. The season, any pictures from last year — I don’t want to see it or look at it.” She had a lot of self-doubt and didn’t think she could do it. “Maybe I should stop. Maybe I’ll never be the same player that I was before. Maybe this was the big rift in my career, where it’s like, I’m never going to get to that top.”

The next day, Griner loped into a conference room above the court, wearing team-branded workout clothes and an elegant chain, dimples prominent in her wide grin. Her teeth were perfect — her first big purchase after going pro. She was gracious and kind, offering to retrieve drinks from the team fridge, making sure everyone around her was comfortable, taking her seat last. “I actually feel like my old self,” she told me. “I’m moving like my old self. But still, in the back of my head, there’s a nagging ‘What if?’ You know, what if it doesn’t go the way you want it to?”

On May 7, Griner will publish her memoir “Coming Home,” written with Michelle Burford, documenting her harrowing ordeal in Russia and her return home. The book is brutal, rendering in excruciating detail the conditions of her imprisonment and the fear and desperation that consumed her daily. Griner has always relied on writing for her sanity, starting in middle school, when she endured bullying for her height and androgynous appearance, and this memoir reveals someone deeply familiar with her interiority — she’s vulnerable and raw but has also had enough therapy to use humor to process tragedy. In Russia, she journaled in the margins of her Bible and a Sudoku book, but the details are also seared in her mind. “I will never forget any of it,” she told me, enunciating each word to make her point.

As we talked, Griner did her best to arrange her 6-foot-9 frame into a low-slung leather chair. She initiated our conversation by asking what hair products I used: Her curls, she confided, have been in recovery, too. When images of Griner were broadcast around the world with her long locs shorn, it seemed like an indication of the cruelty she was enduring. But Griner told me that cutting her hair was actually a rare moment of agency during her imprisonment. Her locs were always damp. There was no hair dryer, and her hair never fully dried after a shower. All the women were forced outside to exercise, she recalled, despite freezing temperatures and snow. The prison was barely heated, and she worried she would catch pneumonia. She decided to cut her locs off. “The cut was horrible,” she told me with a laugh, “but it wasn’t as bad as it could have been.” There was a makeshift salon in prison, and she found tenderness in the hairdresser’s care. “Minus the bars on the window,” she said, “I was like, I kind of felt like I was in an actual shop right now. At least I can get away in here, a little bit.”

It might have been the only time during those 10 months that she felt somewhat free. Griner writes in her book that in elementary school, she saw white Bengal tigers on a school trip to the Houston aquarium. She watched them, wondering what they were thinking. In her own captivity, she had a sense. Anytime she was transported anywhere in Russia, she writes, she was put in a steel cage so small that she had to sit sideways, her knees cramped against her chest, her head brushing the top. Once, at a court appearance, a guard locked her wrists together and then chained the lock to her own wrist. Griner felt like a dog on a leash. The humiliating treatment felt deliberate, spectacle as punishment: She was a prize or a pawn, paraded as an example of Russian power.

Griner’s voice, a languid baritone, remained steady as she told me about the horrors in prison: watching fellow inmates being treated roughly and denied medication; hearing of a young woman who died of cancer; being forced to undress and be photographed nude by doctors. She told me that she prefers when people ask her to talk about what happened rather than avoiding it out of politeness. “People walking on eggshells?” she said. “That doesn’t help me.” But as she spoke about her experiences, her eyes locked on mine and they lost some of their natural impish glint. She wrapped her arms protectively around her rib cage and chest. “The waves have gotten better,” she told me, describing the fluctuations of her emotional state. Athletes are used to dissociating from pain to play. Joints without cartilage, tweaked backs, aching ankles — Griner has had them all, and is well accustomed to pushing through. But this is an experience that will linger in her bones.

On the morning of Feb. 15, 2022, Griner didn’t want to leave her warm bed, where she was cuddling with her wife, Cherelle Griner, at their home in Phoenix. But she had to make her plane to Russia. She’d been playing for a team there for nearly a decade to supplement her W.N.B.A. salary. As one of the highest-profile players in the league, she recently signed a contract for a little over $150,000 for the 2024 season; in Russia, though, she could net more than $1 million. Playing there wasn’t entirely about the money. A kid from Texas, she relished the opportunity to live and travel abroad. And she was treated to the real superstar experience: elite parties, fancy dinners, chartered planes. It was a taste of the life enjoyed by her higher-paid peers in the N.B.A. But working year-round was taking a toll on her body. She thought that this season in Russia might be her last.

Her wife usually packed her bags, loading them with American staples like candy, Sweet Baby Ray’s barbecue sauce, pancake mix and Creole seasoning. This time, Cherelle organized only the big roller bags, leaving Griner responsible for her carry-ons. When Griner finally got up, she didn’t clear them out and repack them. Instead, she hurriedly shoved in her essentials, a Nintendo Switch, a few pairs of underwear and sweatpants and her laptop. She nearly missed her plane.

When she arrived in Moscow, she stopped in customs before her transfer flight to Yekaterinburg, a smaller city where her Russian team was based. She loaded her carry-ons onto the conveyor belt at the security checkpoint and prepared to walk through the metal detector. She noticed agents pulling people out of line — all foreigners. “They were singling out anybody that didn’t look Russian,” she said. “I just felt like they were searching for something.”

At first, when they flagged her bags, Griner wasn’t too concerned. This was her eighth season in Russia; she paid taxes there and was familiar with the country and its laws. The customs agent asked her to search her own items, which she found unusual. As soon as she felt the cannabis-oil cartridge stowed in a zippered inner pocket in her backpack, her stomach sank. Medical marijuana had been prescribed by a physician in Arizona to treat her chronic pain, but it was illegal in Russia. “I was like: Oh, [expletive]. Oh, this is about to be bad,” she told me, and continued to detail the events of the day. Another cartridge was found in a roller bag. She panicked, calling and texting Cherelle and her family. No one answered. It was the middle of the night in the United States, and they were all asleep.

Griner was told to wait while the agent took the cartridges for testing, along with her passport. Other officials arrived and demanded that she sign a document in Russian. Nyet , she replied, pushing it away. She used Google Translate to look up another word: advocat , meaning “lawyer.” They pressured her to sign until she buckled, writing her name. The agents took her outside and loaded her into an unofficial-looking sedan and drove her to a redbrick building. The officials later came back with terrifying news: They had tested her cartridges and said they found 0.7 grams of cannabis oil total in two vape pens. Griner was charged with illegal drug possession and smuggling a “significant amount” of narcotics into the country, punishable by up to 10 years in prison and a fine of a million rubles, which was then about $15,000.

By now, Cherelle and Griner’s agent, Lindsay Colas, were awake. Griner had been able to send a location pin through WhatsApp of where she was being held, and Colas frantically arranged for a Russian lawyer, Alex Boykov, to meet her. When Boykov arrived, investigators continued interrogating Griner. They wanted to know why she was in Russia, why she was bringing “drugs” in, whom they were for. Afterward, she was handcuffed and squeezed into another tiny civilian car. For hours, she sat hunched over in pain as she was driven all over Moscow — a sightseeing tour from hell. The car finally stopped at a local detention center.

Griner was led to a cell and given some bedding for a discolored mattress. Her phone had been taken, but she had been allowed to keep a small bag of personal items, which she packed with some clothes and her Sudoku book. The room stank: A feces-stained hole in the ground served as the toilet. The prison guards brought her a milky porridge with a piece of oily fish that sickened her. She had no way to clean herself — no towels, soap, toothpaste, shampoo or deodorant. She ripped T-shirts into several pieces: for her teeth, for her body, for toilet paper. The bed was too small for her frame, and her calves dangled over the edge. Her old sports injuries flared up as she lay there, writhing in agony. The next morning, prison guards snickered outside her cell. She caught some English mixed with the Russian: “American,” and then, “basketball.” They flipped open the peephole and peered at her. “I’ve never been so dirty in my life,” she said. The degradation would push her to contemplate suicide. “I felt horrible.”

At her arrest hearing on Feb. 19, she was put in a small cage and watched facial expressions for clues about the proceedings. Boykov translated: She was denied bail and house arrest and told she would be detained for at least 30 days. Later, Griner got even worse news: On Feb. 24, Russia invaded Ukraine. President Vladimir V. Putin warned the United States not to get involved in Russian affairs. The stakes of her arrest were already high, but the war ratcheted them up; Griner understood that she was now caught in the middle of a standoff between global rivals.

Soon, Griner was moved to a women’s detention center about two hours outside Moscow. Her head spun. “Going from being free, you know, having freedom of movement, to have absolutely nothing, not even the necessities. … ” Her face turned stony as she sat in the memory. “That quick change to being in a box, not knowing what’s coming next, what’s going to happen tomorrow, or the middle of the night when you hear a door open and footsteps coming to your door, and you’re like, Is this the moment?”

She lay awake at night, anxious thoughts looping through her head, as she did when she was a child. She thought about Cherelle and her family. She agonized over bringing shame to the Griner name, over feeding into caustic stereotypes of Black people as drug abusers. There were real threats to deal with as well: She was subjected to a psychiatric evaluation. In Russia, homosexuality is often called a mental illness, and Griner worried that she could be institutionalized. She was asked about her “sick thoughts” and “drug problem” and pressed to admit that she was guilty.

As Griner’s imprisonment stretched on, however, her world expanded in unexpected ways. She writes that she became particularly close to her bunkmate Alena, a former volleyball player who had been an exchange student in London and was fluent in English. They were together 24 hours a day. Alena translated everything, telling Griner what the guards were whispering, helping her order water and food from the commissary and barter with other incarcerated women, warning her that herpes and H.I.V. were rampant in the prison and that she should avoid medical exams if she could. At one point, she helped when Griner got a severe eye infection and urgently needed care. (Griner heard that the person who treated her was a veterinarian.) They would watch a 90-minute trashy Turkish soap opera that replaced Griner’s beloved “Grey’s Anatomy,” with Alena translating each twist.

The days were stultifying, the nights sleepless. “My life became a blur of sweeping and dusting, cleaning and praying, hoping I could somehow get home,” she writes. “I hurt because I knew I’d handed the world a weapon.”

To relieve her stress, Griner picked up the habit of smoking cigarettes, up to a pack a day. At one point, her Russian team donated a basketball so she could shoot on a hoop in the prison yard, but she kept getting winded. She lost muscle mass and gained weight from commissary staples — packaged noodles, muffins, salami, condensed milk — that felt safer to eat than the fish porridge. She felt depressed, and even sit-ups in her cell felt beyond her capacity.

Griner surprised herself by taking solace in the Bible. In the past, she associated religion with pain and intolerance. But Cherelle was a preacher’s daughter, and in her letters, which were often delayed, she encouraged Griner to lean into her faith. Griner requested a Bible, and the warden approved. She studied it every morning after cell search and showers and sneaked in a few more passages after lights out. A favorite was Psalms 56:3-4: “When I am afraid, I put my trust in you. In God, whose word I praise — in God I trust and am not afraid. What can mere mortals do to me?” Freedom held the luxury of resisting faith, but prison required embracing it.

Griner spent her childhood in the Bellewood section of Houston. She was close to her older sister and her two older half siblings from her father’s previous marriage. In her 2014 memoir, “In My Skin,” Griner describes a comfortable but constrained childhood. By middle school, she towered over her classmates and felt like an outcast. Kids called her “freak.” They antagonized her for her height, her undeveloped chest, her deepening voice. Once, a popular girl walked up to Griner and groped her. She turned to her friends and declared that Griner “must be a boy.” The constant harassment weighed on her, and she became anxious and depressed. Instead of talking about her emotions, she mouthed off to teachers. There were a few knock-down, drag-out fights with other girls. Griner obsessed over being “normal” and drew grim pictures and fantasized about suicide. She was wishing away so much of what would make her successful later in life — her size and strength.

Her father, who worked in law enforcement, governed the household with a severity rooted in paranoia. She was to come straight home after school, her play limited to the yard. There were no sleepovers. But his vigilance helped Griner sharpen her own. She also inherited his stubbornness — refusing to bend to his tough punishments and judgments of her. Their best moments together were in the yard or the garage, cutting grass or fixing the family cars. Griner worked shirtless, like her father.

She writes that she once heard him sneer that a woman was a “dyke.” Her mother was gentle and accepting. Griner wanted to be loved by them both for her full self. She tried to send subtle signals to her father, like leaving her boxers in the laundry. At school, she sagged her Girbaud jeans and wore oversize T-shirts. She used the family computer to look up the words “gay” and “lesbian” and immediately knew she was reading about herself. It was a relief: There were blueprints, communities, outlets beyond her immediate world.

Griner was growing so fast that her parents had her tested to make sure nothing was wrong. No illness; just luck. The logic of her body made perfect sense when she finally stepped on the basketball court in ninth grade. Her gifts were undeniable. Her wingspan, at 7 feet 3½ inches, is longer than LeBron James’s. When she was in high school, a video of her dunking went viral. Watching her, the way she lifts the ball over the rim and into the net as gently as if she were returning a lost child to a parent, brings to mind the way the filmmaker and artist Arthur Jafa describes Black ingenuity in the sport: “We didn’t invent basketball, but we created it.”

She was recruited to play at Baylor University, a Baptist school in Waco, Texas, not far from where she grew up, and became the team’s star player. She and her coach, Kim Mulkey, had a tense relationship. Griner says she felt singled out by Mulkey for various reasons, including being gay. (Mulkey has denied treating gay players differently.) But it didn’t diminish her love of the game. She polished her footwork, learned to shoot with precision and efficiency and likened the energy on the court to “turning the volume way up on a good song.”

In 2013, she arrived at the W.N.B.A. draft in a gleaming white custom-made three-piece suit. She looked poised and confident. When the Mercury selected her with the No.1 draft pick, even though she knew it was coming, a shy grin touched her lips. A few days later, she gave an interview to Sports Illustrated and answered a probing question about her sexual identity by saying, “I’ve always been open about who I am.” The following year, Griner became the first openly gay athlete to be endorsed by Nike. Her boldness set a new standard, helping to normalize queerness in American sports, especially for women.

Prison in Russia reopened old wounds, memories of her adolescent body as an object of fascination and prurient speculation. Guards heckled her, made lewd jokes, asked about her genitalia. Once, she recounted, while returning from the shower with a towel draped around her neck, a guard stopped her and looked her up and down. The guard used her baton to push the towel out of the way and stared at Griner’s chest. Griner was furious but unable to do anything about it.

Griner thought constantly about her family — her wife’s well-being, her parents’ growing frailty. She struggled to write to her father, fearing his disappointment. When she finally did, she said she would “never let you down like this again.” Weeks later, she received his unequivocal reply. “I love you and always will, no matter where you are,” he wrote. “Nothing and nobody can change that.” His affirmation was simple. It allowed her to release some of the debilitating shame and gather herself for what she would have to endure.

The world got its first glimpse of the imprisoned Griner on July 1, 2022, nearly five months after her arrest, when she arrived in court in Moscow for the start of her trial. In photos and videos, she looked stunned, eyes unnaturally wide. Griner had always understood that she was well known in Russia — some guards had even asked her for photographs and autographs — but she didn’t grasp the scale of her case until that moment. There were nearly 100 journalists present, shouting questions and snapping photographs; it reminded her of the media circus around the N.B.A. Finals.

Griner came dressed in a Jimi Hendrix T-shirt in symbolic protest; Hendrix was arrested on a drug charge in 1969 in Toronto and found not guilty. She also held photographs of her wife and Mercury teammates against the bars of her cage. She wanted to try to shape the narrative, to remind the people in Russia and back home that her story went beyond a single mistake.

Griner’s family and legal team still hadn’t spoken with President Biden directly. And they were devastated after a scheduled call between Cherelle and Brittney was bungled by the State Department and never went through. “The roots of Black skepticism go back generations,” Griner writes, “in a country that hasn’t always had our backs; it was too busy breaking them.” Griner, in consultation with her wife and lawyers, decided to plead guilty. It seemed unwise to call the Russian government liars; they were betting that an American humbling herself before Putin would get her home faster. She also wrote a letter to Biden to be sent on July 4, begging him not to forget about her. “Please do all you can to bring us home,” she said. “I still have so much good to do with my freedom that you can help restore.”

In early July, Cherelle was interviewed by Gayle King to raise awareness, noting that Griner’s team had yet to meet with the Biden administration. The president reached out to tell Cherelle that talks about a prisoner swap were underway and to caution that pressuring him in public “would play into Russia’s hands.” He replied to Griner’s letter, saying that “getting you home is top of mind for all of us.” Griner’s team revved up its online efforts, rallying the Rev. Al Sharpton and her teammates and other players to call for a lenient verdict.

Cherelle and Colas, her agent, crafted a hashtag that became the rallying cry to keep Griner’s story relevant over the months. They initially considered “LoveBG” but ultimately went with “WeAreBG.” The choice shortened the distance between Griner and those who had ever worried about their safety at home or abroad. Colas told me that the intention was to remind people of Griner’s universality, despite the unusual circumstances. “Britney stepping into her power and sharing about herself has always given people permission to be themselves and be loud about it.”

During the 2022 W.N.B.A. All-Star Game, the players wore Griner’s jersey number in solidarity during the second half. N.B.A. players like LeBron James and Stephen Curry publicly questioned what seemed like the U.S. government’s inaction on the case. But her most devoted and persistent advocates were Black women, many of them arguing online that the government’s response felt muted, a continuation of the culture of neglect that fails to adequately protect them and gender-nonconforming people. Kerry Washington and Roxane Gay campaigned for her in the American media. Thousands sent Griner messages of support in prison. In the acknowledgments of her book, Griner thanks Black women in the press for keeping her name alive throughout her detainment.

“Russia understands the way American public opinion matters to the presidency,” Kimberly St. Julian-Varnon, a scholar at the University of Pennsylvania who studies the intersection of Blackness and the Eastern Bloc, told me, “and they played with it.” The tactic worked: Griner’s case incited rancor and debate between those who argued that the American government wasn’t doing enough and those who cast Griner as a criminal and argued that other American detainees in Russia, like Paul Whelan, a former Marine accused of spying, should be a higher priority.

On Aug. 4, Griner returned to court for sentencing. Her defense team detailed the mishandling of her case: She had no lawyer during initial questioning and was pressured to sign documents she didn’t understand, and the amount of cannabis was exaggerated, among other things. Griner was given the chance to read a statement, which she insisted on writing herself. “My parents taught me two important things,” she read, hands shaking. “One, to take ownership for your responsibilities. And two, to work hard for everything that you have. That’s why I pled guilty to my charges. I understand the charges that are against me, … but I had no intent to break any Russian law. I want the court to understand that it was an honest mistake that I made while rushing and in stress.” She apologized to her American and Russian teammates, her family, her friends.

The judge was unmoved. Griner was sentenced to nine years in a penal colony. Her release date would be Oct. 20, 2031. She froze, unable to digest the information. Her Russian lawyers surreptitiously called Cherelle on FaceTime and held the phone up through the bars of Griner’s cage, and they wept together. A nearby guard saw but did not intervene. He seemed as shocked as they were.

In early November 2022, Griner was loaded onto a train with other female inmates. After seven or eight days of traveling in cages in the dark, they finally stopped and were met by guards with automatic weapons and barking German shepherds. Griner had been taken to a repurposed Soviet-era gulag in Mordovia, 200 miles outside Moscow. Inmates referred to the region as “the ass of Russia,” and Griner would soon understand why. For several days, no one in her family or on her legal team knew where she was.

She was given a uniform of thick green corduroy that was too short to cover her body and a head wrap similar to a hijab. She moved into a room crammed with bunks for 20 women, and the bathroom was shared by 50. She was put to work for 12-, sometimes 15-hour shifts, cutting big pieces of fabric for Russian military uniforms with rusty, dangerous spinning blades. Separated from Alena, her lifeline, and the smaller jail setting that had become familiar, she was desolate. She decided to adopt a new survival strategy: letting go of hope. “I thought I was going to be there for the long haul,” she told me. “I’m tired of waiting for the day. It’s easier to just accept the situation I’m in. I’m an inmate.”

Sometimes she would volunteer to shovel the snow and ice around the prison — the manual labor reminded her of her training. “It made me feel like I was lifting weights, because snow is super heavy,” she said. The exercise distracted her, kept her busy. In this remote prison, she had even less contact with the outside world. There were few visits from her lawyer. Almost no one spoke English, and she began to lose some fluency. There were small kindnesses: Welders made her a bigger bed, and another woman sewed her mittens and a prison uniform that fit and kept her somewhat warmer in the uninsulated cell. Ann, the head cook, spoke English and recruited her to help with kitchen duties. When the electricity went out for a few days, Griner carried hunks of cow from the freezer to the fields where they cooked meals, warming up by the fires. She celebrated Thanksgiving alone with a smoked turkey leg and rice with soy sauce that she bought from the commissary.

At home, Cherelle spoke about Griner every chance she got: on “The View” and at awards ceremonies. Her case was still a lightning rod: Dennis Rodman (publicly) and Donald Trump (privately) each said he would fly to Russia to get her.

In late November, after about a month in Mordovia, Griner was pulled from work to take a call from the U.S. Embassy. She was told that discussions for a prisoner swap were underway and that she should keep quiet about it. Griner was elated, but cautious. For a week she heard nothing. Once again, she was summoned to the warden’s office and told that the trade was imminent. She began preparing, donating her possessions — shampoo, food, clothes — and giving Ann the money she made working for five weeks, less than $100. The other incarcerated women brought photos of their kids for her to sign, which she did. Then, she waited.

On Dec. 2, she was loaded into a cage inside a van with four guards. They rode in the dark, without a translator, for eight hours. They stopped at another prison and started the process of booking her. Alarmed, she realized that it was a men’s facility. She felt a rising panic: Had she been tricked? Would she be forced to serve the remainder of her sentence here? She soothed herself by watching the World Cup, Portugal versus Switzerland. Around lights out, a guard slipped a note through her door. It held the words she’d been waiting months to hear: “You leave tonight.” She stayed up all night, praying that it was real.

In the morning, she writes, she was taken to an examination room, where a man who said he was a doctor stood with seven armed guards. She was told to remove her clothes, which she did. He gestured for her to remove her boxers too. Fear coursed through her, but she complied, standing without covering herself or cowering. They began photographing her from every angle — a final display of total power and control over her body.

Afterward, she was driven to a plane and boarded, though she had no idea where it was going. She was too wired to sleep and too scared to eat, afraid of being poisoned. The plane finally landed, in Abu Dhabi. As she disembarked, she was greeted by Roger Carstens, the special presidential envoy for hostage affairs in the State Department. He handed her a pin that read “We Are BG.” Griner exhaled, allowing relief to sink in for the first time. As she walked onto the tarmac, a man walked toward her. She recognized him as Viktor Bout, the notorious Russian arms dealer for whom she had been traded. As they passed each other, he reached for a handshake, and she instinctively complied. He offered congratulations. His hands were soft compared with her roughened ones; later she heard that he spent his time in prison painting pictures of cats. She boarded the plane Bout had come from.

When Griner arrived in San Antonio, Cherelle was waiting on the tarmac, surrounded by supporters waving American flags. Griner leaped down the airplane stairs and ran toward her. They embraced, in tears. They were ushered to a private lounge where they could get reacquainted. They sat as close as they could get, kissing, tracing each other’s features.

At first, being home was a nonstop adrenaline high. Griner reunited with her parents, her siblings and their children. She ate well, indulging in barbecue and snacks, luxuriating in hot showers and cuddling with Cherelle and bingeing movies. But as time went on, Griner struggled to adjust. During the trial, her home address was leaked, and she and Cherelle had to move into a safe house. She did a deep dive on social media of the coverage of her case and saw the vitriol directed at her. There were people who called her ugly slurs and said she should have been left to rot overseas. “We’re getting all this hate about how unpatriotic I am,” she told me. “That I’m un-American and shouldn’t be alive right now.”

In prison, Griner had a singular focus: freedom. Now she felt adrift, confused. Basketball had always been her compass, so she decided to start playing as soon as she could. The very first week she was back, she and Cherelle played one on one. She tired easily — chain-smoking in prison had shredded her lungs. Griner decided to see if she could still dunk. She could, though her back ached for days after. She started working out again, hard, though her go-to exercises like planks and curls with 50-pound dumbbells were nearly impossible. But the routines felt like home. She mapped out a 100-day conditioning plan to get ready for the upcoming W.N.B.A. season. Still, she felt overweight, and her lifelong struggles with body image resurfaced. There were days when she wouldn’t eat. “It was trying, big time,” she said. She wondered if she should quit, if this was the end of her career.

As the 2023 season began, she continued to feel disoriented. Each arena stop meant a reunion with players she hadn’t seen since she was detained, and during each game, video commemorations of her release were played. She appreciated the acknowledgment of what she had been through, but as time wore on, the reminders were triggering: It was hard to keep her head in the game. The Mercury lost 31 of 40 games. As the season wound down, without her usual plan to go overseas, she began to have symptoms of post-traumatic stress disorder. “People say it’s OK to not be OK,” she told me. “But what the hell does that mean? Just cry when I want to cry? Or be angry when I want to be angry? Or does that mean talking about it? Like, I had to figure that out.”

This season, Griner is grateful to return to the game she loves. And the timing couldn’t be better. Women’s basketball has garnered renewed attention, fueled in part by the exhilarating performances of Caitlin Clark and Angel Reese in the March Madness tournament, followed by an electric W.N.B.A. draft. Griner’s detainment has also galvanized the women’s league and drawn national attention to a question it has long needed to address: pay-equity issues that push players abroad in the off-season. There’s a chance to invest in the future of the league more broadly. “We can build the type of stable league that could be financially worth it for players to stay home throughout the year,” Sue Bird, a former player for the Seattle Storm who is heavily involved in shaping the league, told me. “It could be a whole new world in the W.N.B.A.”

In 2025, the W.N.B.A. will have the opportunity to renegotiate player contracts. It’s a chance to advocate new pay structures, maternity support, a bigger percentage of revenue generated by licensing games to networks and streaming platforms and more security. “I’ve always talked about that, but I’m seeing it more now,” Griner told me. Last year at Dallas Fort Worth Airport, Griner was accosted by a conservative media personality who pushed a microphone in her face and shouted that she “hates America.” Unlike their peers in the N.B.A., W.N.B.A. teams still fly commercial during most of the regular season, exposing them to altercations like the one Griner experienced.

Before her imprisonment, she and Cherelle liked to spend lazy Sundays in bed, watching television and laughing. But being in a single room with a bed reminds her too much of prison. So does being cold. She has nightmares that she has to go back to Russia to file some errant paperwork and becomes trapped all over again. Between seasons, she and Cherelle used to venture down to Mexico for a few romantic days of relaxation. Now she’s afraid that she could be a valuable target for another hostage situation. “If I go to the wrong country,” she said, “they could literally just grab me.” (She will travel to Paris to play basketball in the Olympics this summer, but that feels wrapped in enough American security protocols to be safe.) Therapy has taught her that there is no “before” anymore. Her brain is different, and so is her life. One of the biggest signs that she’s recovering, she says, is that her words are back. When she first got home, she felt and sounded like a child feeling for language. “I felt like I went backward,” she told me.

During our meetings, Griner was raw and unguarded, willing to go as deep as the conversation required. But it hasn’t been easy or comfortable navigating her emotions in the public sphere: Because of her size, people often don’t always see her fragility. “There’s no room for tears as women,” she said. “If we have a moment, it’s like, Oh, she’s weak, being bitchy or irrational. We don’t get to process; we have to be on 24/7.” It’s clear that she continues to struggle with the feeling that her freedom is conditional, not something she inherently deserves. “I’m on borrowed time,” she told me. She plans to continue campaigning for other American detainees, including Paul Whelan and the journalist Evan Gershkovich.

Before we parted ways, Griner told me that going into nature — she loves off-roading in the dusty red mountains — has been one of her coping mechanisms. Before her ordeal in Russia, she didn’t need time away from people, to ground herself. But now, sometimes it’s the only thing that helps. “That’s a big thing for me — getting away from the screens and the cameras,” she said. “It feels like time slows down when I’m in nature.” She’s learning about the value of carving out a private identity. Not every part of her existence has to be an example or a cause. She and Cherelle are expecting their first child, and that will also reshape the way Griner engages with the public. Before I left Phoenix, I took her advice. I drove deep into the mountains, winding upward until the clouds thinned and the air grew clearer, sharper. I thought of Griner up there alone, without cell reception, a reprieve from the demands of her life. The dry desert mountains were covered in an astonishing amount of grass. They looked like green waves. It was a reminder that life grows in even the most arid conditions.

Read by January LaVoy

Narration produced by Anna Diamond and Krish Seenivasan

Engineered by David Mason

Styling by Marquise Miller and Aaron Christmon.

Mickalene Thomas is an artist known for her paintings of African American women that combine historical, political and pop-culture references. Her solo show “All About Love” starts its tour at the Broad in Los Angeles in May.

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