banda nice trip

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30 de novembro de 2023

Digão (raimundos) se apresenta com a banda nice trip em ribeirão preto.

No próximo dia 14 de dezembro, a partir das 20h, o Hard Rock Café Ribeirão Preto será palco do show de Digão, vocalista, guitarrista e fundador do Raimundos.

Ao lado da banda Nice Trip, formada por Rafael Adorno e Tiago Adorno, o artista promete uma noite memorável com os hits da banda e outras músicas que fazem parte de sua história.

No repertório são esperados sucessos como “Mulher de Fases”, “A Mais Pedida”, “Me Lambe” entre outros.

A abertura fica por conta dos alunos da School Of Rock de Ribeirão Preto, que prometem balançar o público com clássicos do rock internacional.

Os ingressos já estão à venda através da internet no site Show Pass e presencialmente na School Of Rock na Rock Shop do Hard Rock Café Ribeirão Preto.

O show Digão e banda Nice Trip é um evento realizado pela Nice Trip Produções, com promoção da Rádio Difusora.

Data: 14 de dezembro de 2023

Local: Hard Rock Café

Endereço: R. Edgar Rodrigues, 200 - Santa Cruz | Ribeirão Preto

Ingressos: www.showpass.com.br

Agradecimento: Urano Comunicação

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Banda Islands, Indonesia

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The tiny Banda Islands were long the world’s only source of nutmeg. The archipelago’s importance in the English–Dutch struggle to control the spice trade is evidenced in its remaining forts on islands like Bandaneira. Old nutmeg smokehouses line trails through fragrant nutmeg groves here and the islands are dotted with huge mango and kanari trees, coffee and other exotic plants. Energetic souls may want to climb Gunung Api, an active volcano directly opposite Bandaneira, for spectacular views. Banda’s islands, like the majority of Maluku’s fertile waters, offer excellent diving opportunities. Snorkelling is also possible within Banda’s natural harbour.

Tips for visiting the Banda Islands

Best things to do in the banda islands.

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How to get to the banda islands, how many days do you need here, tips for getting around, best time to visit the banda islands, tailor-made travel itineraries for indonesia, created by local experts.

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Tailor-made trips for   Indonesia

The Banda Islands were tapped into global trade networks since at least the Roman era, but the locals remained in control of their own economy until the Portuguese arrived in 1512, followed by the Dutch a century later, to set up a spice monopoly.

Soon, however, spices were increasingly produced elsewhere and the nine Banda islands faded into obscurity. A military headquarters until 1860, Benteng Belgica was restored in the early 20th century and dominates Bandaneira, the major island of the archipelago.

Closer to the sea, Benteng Nassau, important during VOC governor-general Jan Pieterszoon Coen’s efforts to control Banda in 1621, crumbles in neglect.

The string of forts continues on neighbouring Banda Besar island with Benteng Concordia and Benteng Hollandia, built by Coen high on a ridge to command the surrounding seas, and destroyed by earthquake in 1743. Benteng Revingil (Revenge) rises from the ocean on Ai island.

In Bandaneira, the Museum Rumah Budaya holds many historical artefacts. Other sites include a church dating from 1852, its interior stone slab graves inscribed with the names of Dutch colonialists, and the Istana Mini, the old governor’s mansion, which has the former resident’s suicide note carved on one of the window panes.

Benteng Belgica © Shutterstock

The best things to do in the Banda Islands are either historical or natural. From former military headquarters and colonial mansions to mountain climbing and scuba diving, these remote islands have more going on than you might expect.

#1 Visit former military headquarters like Benteng Belgica

A military headquarters until 1860, Benteng Belgica was restored in the early 20th century and dominates Bandaneira. Closer to the sea, Benteng Nassau, important during VOC governor-general Jan Pieterszoon Coen’s efforts to control Banda in 1621, crumbles in neglect.

#2 Climb Gunung Api

Energetic souls may want to climb Gunung Api, an active volcano directly opposite Bandaneira. The last major eruption was in 1988, but fortunately, almost all of the lava and ash fell on the side away from the town. The view from the summit is spectacular. Attempt this with a guide and get an early start to beat the heat of the day. To catch the sunrise atop Gunung Api at Banda, and the breathtaking views before early-morning cloud cover forms, start your ascent at 5.30am. The climb should take 1.5 hours, but check on conditions first, as this is an active volcano.

Gunung Api volcano, Banda islands, Indonesia © Shutterstock

#3 Visit at least one of the Banda Islands' museums

In Bandaneira, the Museum Rumah Budaya holds many historical artefacts. Other sites include a church dating from 1852, its interior stone slab graves inscribed with the names of Dutch colonialists, and the Mesjid Hatta-Syahrir.

Museum Muhammad Hatta and the Museum Sjahrir contain memorabilia of Indonesia ’s top nationalist leaders who were exiled in Bandaneira in the mid-1930s. The Museum Captain Cole was named after the British leader who captured Banda from the Dutch in 1811.

#4 See former VOC outposts

The Istana Mini, the old governor’s mansion, has the former resident’s suicide note carved on one of the window panes. Next door is the former VOC headquarters, which has a statue of King Willem III, the great-grandfather of the present Dutch queen.

#5 Go diving or snorkelling

Banda's fertile waters offer excellent diving opportunities. Snorkelling is also possible on sites within Banda’s huge natural harbour. One special site, Lava Flow, situated upon the lava from Gunung Api’s 1988 eruption, has been identified as having the world’s fastest-growing table corals, with layer upon layer reaching a span of 3 or 4 metres (10–13ft).

Sharks and pelagic species patrol deeper waters, while a myriad of colourful fish swarm coral-encrusted walls. Banda has a unique mandarin fish; every evening divers can observe and photograph its mating ritual. In April and October, the seas are calm and visibility excellent.

Istana Mini in Banda Naira Island, Central Maluku, Indonesia © Shutterstock

Most of the accommodation on the Banda Islands is simple guesthouses or homestays but the choice is slowly starting to grow. Bandaneira and Hatta have the lion's share, but it is possible to stay on any of the six main islands listed below. Here's where to stay:

With a liberal sprinkling of guesthouses and homestays, Bandaneira offers the most choice of accommodation. Most places to stay are located to the southwest of the island. They tend to be basic, though there are a couple of midrange hotels in former colonial buildings, too.

Hatta Island

Hatta has an increasing number of places to stay on the island. Most of its homestays line the north coast beaches, and there is a simple beach hotel on the west coast. All stays are basic.

Ai has five homestays on the island, each dotted along the north coast.

Gunung Api Island

There is only one guesthouse on Gunung Api Island on the east coast.

On Run, you can choose from two homestays or a brightly-painted guesthouse.

Banda Besar Island

There are three simple places to stay on Banda Besar, all on the north coast beaches.

The Banda Islands don't have any restaurants. Only Bandaneira has a handful of very simple Indonesian restaurants. All of the islands offer food as part of your stay. This usually means three meals a day.

On Banda Besar Island and Hatta Island, you will find local food markets and small barbecue stalls.

Nightlife is also non-existent on the Banda Islands.

Diver, cabbage coral in Banda, Indonesia © Shutterstock

Getting to the Banda Islands should be easy: you either arrive by plane or boat. However, rough seas, the rainy season and frequent flight cancellations mean you should give yourself a few days on either side of your visit to account for any delays.

There is an airport on Bandaneira which receives regular flights from Ambon. However, these are often delayed or cancelled.

There are two boat services between Ambon and Bandaneira. The Express Bahari 2B boat takes six to seven hours but doesn’t run during rough seas or the rainy season.

Larger Pelni boats take nine hours and often run when The Express Bahari 2B doesn’t.

Find out the best ways to get to Indonesia .

You should aim to spend at least five days in the Banda Islands, longer if you're diving. Exploring the best museums, a couple of colonial forts and visit a nutmeg plantation will take around three days, but you'll also want to visit more than one island.

This is possible on a day trip, but it's worth spending a couple of nights on the more remote islands like Run, so give yourself at least three days.

If you're scuba diving or snorkeling, you might want to spend around 5-7 days in Banda Islands, and up to 10 days to do everything.

Looking for inspiration for your trip? Talk to our Indonesia travel experts .

Fort Belgica With Banda Neira ocean, Indonesia © Shutterstock

Boats shuttle regularly between the major islands, though you may need to charter a boat (or have your homestay host charter one for you) to reach some of the smaller islands like Gunung Api.

All the islands are small and walkable.

There are ojeks that run across Bandaneira, but they are usually only helpful for airport runs.

To reach some of the smaller islands, hire a boat at the jetty or have your accommodation sort one for you.

The best time to visit Banda Islands is between October and April, which is the dry season. During this time, the weather is generally sunny and dry, making it perfect for outdoor activities such as scuba diving, snorkeling, and island hopping. The water is also calm and clear, offering excellent visibility for underwater exploration.

There can be heavy rainfall and rough seas during the wet season (May to September), making it difficult to access some of the islands. The fast boats won't run in July or August, nor will they go during bad seas.

Find out more about the best time to visit Indonesia .

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Museum of Wander

Wet Dreams in the Banda Islands, Indonesia

With the best snorkeling on earth and legendary historic and colonial charm, Indonesia’s Banda islands, or Spice islands, are not to be missed

Getting to the Banda islands can be challenging. But then, in the words of Anthony Bourdain: You don’t take the A-train to Mecca.

Reaching the Banda islands is challenging. Still, you should go! You’ll be rewarded with the best snorkelling reefs in the world, as well as unique cultural and historical sights of Indonesia’s colonial era.

The Ambon-Bandaneira Ferry

Chaos surrounds me.

It’s not unlike catching a train during the morning rush, except the morning rush is more organized, dignified even compared to this. The mosh pit of humid bodies is durian flavoured, and the only way out is through.

“ Forget your manners, put your chin down on your chest, and use them elbows ,” I tell myself as I push forwards, trying to get off the ferry. Masochists would love this.

Somewhere in a forgotten corner of my mind Celine Dion is giving a heartbreaking performance of that Titanic song, while around me, dreams in boxes and plastic-wrapped cheap luxuries push towards the exit. Meanwhile, more oversized cargo is hoisted up and down the side of the ferry with pulleys.

Visually representing disembarking an Indonesian state-run Pelni ferry is a daunting task. A bowl of instant noodles turned upside down would do. No, instead, smashed against a wall would be more accurate. As I said, chaos surrounds me. 

Just like us getting off, the boarding passengers have only one way in -through us.

 “ Hello, mister “, the man squeezing past me going up carries what looks like a headboard for a bed. His face tells me that he must be going home to Papua. Immediately my brain retrieves a file from my cortex. 

It reads NatGeo/Cannibal.

“ Hello to you too. ” I shuffle forward.

One more floor. 

One more stairwell. 

Many more  Hello, Misters . 

The heat. The chaos.

Light and air, down the plank and when my feet finally step on land, it takes a few seconds to sink in…

I HAVE ARRIVED IN THE BANDA ISLANDS

Seeing the Banda Islands today, you’ll be excused for assuming it’s just a collection of ramshackle tin roofs fighting a battle with the tropical vines and downpours, just like many other towns in Indonesia. But it is no other town in Indonesia.

It’s the Bandas!

Rewind a couple of hundred years, and you’ll be pleasantly surprised. See, the Bandas’ claim to fame is nutmeg. Yes, that brown spice you sprinkle over pancakes or in your latte when your inner hipster is on the loose.

Nutmeg, schmutmeg , I hear you say.

A Short History of the Spice Islands

Well, back in the day, nutmeg was worth its weight in gold and nutmeg trees only grew on this tiny archipelago, nowhere else on Earth. When the plague broke out in Europe, nutmeg was considered a cure, and the Dutch were the proud owners of a colony where money grew on trees. As a result, nutmeg could be sold at 300 times the purchase price back in Europe. These are the Spice Islands.

This small archipelago was actually a big game-changer in modern history. The spice trade led to Columbus going on a voyage in search of a shortcut. Instead of finding spice, he stumbled upon the Americas.

The Dutch VOC decided to start a pit stop, a B&B if you will, in Cape Town at the foot of Table Mountain. This allowed the VOC ships a place for R&R on their way to and from Batavia (Jakarta). The owners of the B&B are my ancestors. As a result, I was born with a pale skin and a Dutch name under the scorching African sky.

Later, the Dutch panicked when the British wanted in on the lucrative business (as they always did). The Brits had control over nearby Run Island, which is only 20 km away. But Run had no nutmeg. To keep the pesty Poms away, the Dutch traded Run island for another obscure Dutch island to protect their monopoly on the trade. The name of the other island? Manhattan.

Yes…that Manhattan.

Long story short, somehow, the Brits managed to smuggle a few nutmeg saplings out, which were transplanted in Sri Lanka. As a result, the Dutch lost control over the monopoly, the VOC went bankrupt and, eventually, Indonesia became independent, and the Bandas were forgotten.

Banda Neira

Standing there on the dock, I want to high-five myself for making it here. But more than that, I want, no need a shower. And sleep. Travelling nonstop for almost 3 days, first flying from Seoul to Singapore, connecting to Jakarta before a midnight flight to Ambon, and then overnight on that  fucked up  challenging ferry, getting to the Banda islands is not easy. More so in July, which is the middle of the rainy season.

Walking to my guesthouse, the scenes confirm that I had indeed arrived in the spice islands. Cloves and cinnamon bark are laid out to dry in front of almost every house. Meanwhile, big bags of nutmeg are hoisted onto the Pelni ferry before it departs again.

After a short and fragrant walk, I reach  Vita Guest House.  At 100 000 IDR a night (pancake breakfast included), it is hard not to instantly like Vita Guest House. 

My ensuite room is right on the water. Open the door, and I can spot mandarin fish swimming around. Vita is actually one of the most accessible places to see these beauties. 

I have an unobstructed view of Gunung Api, or fire mountain, across the narrow straight when I look up.

After a much-deserved shower, I hear the ferry horn blowing, and when I look out, I see the  fucked up  dreadful ferry sailing off into the sunrise. I picture it being loaded to the rafters carrying people in every available space, even in the lifeboats. There are piles of bananas and dreams in boxes and a headboard for a bed for a cannibal’s wife in Papua. 

It will be 10 days before the next ferry arrives. And then I give in and surrender to that sweet, sweet thing called sleep.

Colonial Heritage of the Banda Islands

Today Banda Neira, the main town, is crumbling away most beautifully. Here nature is in a manipulative, maybe even abusive, relationship with all this history. The lushness often massages too firmly. The roots and vines hug too affectionately, and the pouring monsoon doesn’t know when enough is enough. I can just imagine what would happen to these old colonial mansions and forts over time without outside intervention. But that’s the beauty of it. How it’s slowly falling apart but kept from disappearing. Call it couple-therapy in the tropics, if you will. There is no restoration for the sake of restoration. But things are simply being kept from completely disappearing.

The pentagonal-shaped Fort Belgica, built in the 1620s, is in fairly good condition and offers a sweeping view over Banda Neira and towards Gunung Api. Walking the streets of Banda Neira, you’ll probably stumble upon one of the many VOC cannons lying around. The streets are lined with gracious colonial mansions, and one doesn’t need a vivid imagination to get an idea of how life must have been here during its heydays.

Another fine example of colonial architecture is the Governor’s palace, now called the Istana Mini. Huge wooden doors with heavily carved beams and shuttered windows hide opulence and shiny marble floors inside. Outside in the garden is a bust of the Dutch King Willem III rusting away. The Dutch Reformed Church is another fine colonial building with its tombstone floor.

The architecture and heritage of the Bandas are unique cultural landmarks of Indonesia from the colonial era.

A Guide/Fixer for the Banda Islands

Meeting Maga was a blessing in disguise. July is the middle of the rainy season, and during a downpour of cats and Great Danes, Maga and I end up sheltering under the same roof.

“ Hello, mister “, a voice behind the sweet smell of a clove cigarette. A mouse with big eyes. Sharp nose. “ After rain, we go see nutmeg trees ?  Not far “

“ OK “, I say, thinking how much I hate being guided around. “ Why not ” trying to sound optimistic. I have no other plans anyway. And I actually do want to see some nutmeg trees… But I still hate being guided around.

Maga proves to be a great fixer. He takes me to the spice farmers on his scooter. The farmers cut open the apricot-sized fruit to reveal the fragrant nutmeg wrapped in intricate bright red mace. They showed me how to strip cinnamon bark from a tree and when cloves were ready to be picked.

Having Maga unlocks the gates of the Benteng Belgica fort. Without him, I wouldn’t see the Dutch names on the tombstone floor inside the church because I wouldn’t have known that the key was 3 doors down at a cousin of someone’s brother. When old buildings don’t excite me anymore, we go racing down the airport runway on scooters with his mates.

Say what? Airport? 

Yes, there is an airport. I was getting there, but since you’re asking. During my 10 days in the Bandas, not one single airplane landed at or left this airport. The ferry is still the most reliable way to get to the Banda Islands.

The Real Reason to Come to the Banda Islands

So you are asking: “All that way on a  fucked up  demoralizing ferry in the middle of the monsoon to  ooh  and  aah  over crumbling buildings and some old spice?”

 As fascinating as the Bandas are on land, it’s even better once you put your head underwater. 

This place will give Jacques Cousteau wet dreams.

Sir David Attenborough will use very un-sir-like words to describe the magnificence of the Banda sea. I, well, the snorkelling left me speechless. Smack bang in the middle of the coral triangle with crystal clear water and an abundance of sea life-this is the reason why you will want to get to the Banda Islands.

Where to Snorkel in the Banda Islands

Arguably the best place to snorkel is on the side of the volcano where the recent lava flow drops into the sea. Taking a  ketingting  (motorized canoe) takes about 30 minutes and 50 000 IDR. 

Coral gardens, no forests, await. It’s a whole new world once your head is underwater.

The fish are like paintings made by kindergartners on acid. You’ll drift over flat coral the size of your dining table and coral tubes grown men can disappear into. All the usual suspects are here: Nemo, trigger and parrotfish, moray eels, you name it. The sheer number of fish is astonishing. 

Nearby, tiny Karaka island lacks the amazing coral seen at the lava flow but makes up for it in big fish. It also has a small sandy beach compared to the rocky shore at the lava flow. Here I see huge napoleons and barracudas as well as an enormous sea snake.

On one side of the island, I see all the smaller fish in the shallows, and then as you swim around the tip of the island, it drops off into the abyss. It is like floating in a humongous cobalt blue pot of everything and nothing simultaneously -utterly surreal and quite hard to explain.

Get some Nasi Goreng or doughnuts from one of the women in the market and bring them with you. All that swimming works up an appetite.

Visiting Pulau Ay/Ai

I go to nearby Pulau Ay (also spelt Ai) for 2 nights. Just like in Banda Neira, I am the only tourist on the island.

“We are full from November to March”, says Ardy from Ardy’s homestay, and he takes out his guestbook to show me. “People from Italy, Germany and Slovenia come here for weeks, sometimes a whole month,” he says proudly.

During my two nights here, I didn’t get to see Ay’s fabled snorkelling sites. Cats and Great Danes are coming down again, and the sea is rough and murky. Between rains, I look for chards of Delft on the beach and walk dwarfed between giant Kenari (almond) trees.

These almond trees are hundreds of years old and were planted to provide shade for the shade-loving nutmeg trees.

Ardy’s is the only place open during my visit. The Green Coconut right on the beach looks fantastic but is unfortunately closed.

Ardy is a solid choice with very comfy beds, good food, and an endless flow of coffee and fried bananas over good conversations. When I’m here again, I wouldn’t mind staying at Ardy’s for a couple of weeks. Perhaps even a month.

Climbing Banda Api

Back in Bandaneira, I still want to do one thing. “ Just walk. Straight up. Maybe 2 hours up. ” Maga’s smoking hand points to the top. And with these directions, I set out to climb Gunung Api (Fire Mountain).

Halfway up, still between the ferns and lushness, the heavens open and starts pouring. I am cold, soaked and miserable. Turning back is no option, so I soldier on until the trees fade away. Meanwhile, mother nature hates me as the rain keeps soaking me.

There is no view when I finally reach the top. Nothing but grey, wet, doom and gloom. Feeling sorry for myself, I sit down on top of that fire mountain to catch my breath before making my way down. There is no reason to hang around. I just need some rest.

Sitting there, defeated, I take off my shoes to dry out my socks. At first, I think my mind is playing tricks on me. But no… the ground IS hot. The loose gravel is steaming hot. I buried my feet under it, then lay flat on my back to soak up the heat. I can’t help but smile while the rain keeps pounding my face.

Not long after, the rain briefly stops, the clouds roll out, and life is perfect.

Gunung Api is over 600 meters in height, but the path goes straight up, and the incline is quite steep. It should take you 2 hours each way.

The Pelni shows up again 10 days later (and 12 hours behind schedule.)

Sitting somewhat comfortably outside on deck 3 on bags of onions, I watch the Bandas disappear. I think about what a struggle it was to get here. And what a struggle it is to leave.

PELNI Ferry to the Banda Islands

You first need to get to Ambon, the capital of Maluku province. Direct flights from Jakarta or Makassar will get you to Ambon.

 PELNI ferry is the cheapest, most reliable, yet most uncomfortable way to get to the Banda Islands. They run twice a month, starting in Ambon and stopping in Banda Neira before continuing towards Tual in the Kei Islands and farther East to Papua.

Take a look at the  Pelni ferry schedule  and plan your trip to the Bandas to fit the ferry schedule. Remember that these schedules are not set in stone, so leave at least a day before and after your stay open to make up for possible delays. My ferry leaving Banda Neira to the Kei islands arrived 12 hours behind schedule.

Ekonomi class will get you space anywhere you can find, even in the lifeboats. While this is the cheapest, I will not take Ekonomi class ever again. Ekonomi it’s a great experience, and EVERYONE will come and talk to you and try to help you, but I suggest getting a cabin. You can lock your cabin and leave your bags inside while still hanging with the commoners outside on the decks. Food ( Fried chicken, Nasi goreng and snacks) are also for sale.

 When looking at the schedule, you want to go from  AMBON to BANDA NAIRA . I did not book the ticket online, but it sure is handy for seeing the schedule. I booked my ticket a few hours before departure at the Pelni office at the harbour in Ambon. The journey from Ambon to Banda takes between 8 and 14 hours.

The port in the Kei islands is shown as  TUAL . The  Kei islands  have perhaps the best beaches in Indonesia, so definitely head that way while you’re in the region.

Flights to the Banda Islands

In theory, there should be regular flights between Ambon and Banda Neira. In reality, these flights are fickle and not reliable. Susi Air ( https://susiair.com/ ) operates “regular” flights on small 15-seater planes.

 The baggage allowance is only 10 kg. Flights should take about an hour and cost around 330 000 IDR. These flights can’t be booked online, only at their office at the airport.

Fast Ferry to the Banda Islands

There used to be a fast ferry between Ambon and Bandaneira on Tuesday and Saturday, returning to Ambon the next day. However, readers report that this service is no more. So it seems that the slow boat remains king!

Please let us know if you have any updates on the fast ferries.

Where to Stay in the Banda Islands

Vita Guest House : I stayed at Vita Guest House and was very happy with everything. Vita has 7 clean rooms, beds are comfy, comes with western toilets and cold showers (you won’t need hot water in this weather) and overall offers excellent value for money. Fan room is 100 000 rupiah per night, and rooms with aircon are also available.

Breakfast is included and consists of bread or pancakes, nutmeg jam, fruit, tea and coffee.

Set around a courtyard with a wooden jetty overlooking Gunung Api, Vita is a great place to relax.

Snorkelling gear (masks, snorkels, fins) are available for rent. The quality isn’t that good, so it’s better to bring your own. They can also help with boat charter.

You can contact Vita on +62 812-4706-7099, or email [email protected]

Delfika:  Delfika 1&2 are at two separate locations but have the same owner.

Delfika 1 oozes ambience and has a fantastic cafe. You should definitely come here to eat.

Delfika 2 is just down the street from Vita and also has a waterside location. The rooms look modern and clean. Fan and aircon rooms are available and go for 250 000 – 300 000 rupiah per night, including breakfast.

You can contact Delfika by email at [email protected].

Where to Eat in Bandaneira

Breakfast will probably be included in your room. If not, the daily market has lots of options. The doughnuts and sweet sago pancakes and treats are superb. When going snorkelling or hiking for the day, it’s a good idea to get some food packed to take with you.

Delfika 1, set in a former  perkenier  mansion, looks like an excellent place to stay. Even if not staying here, you should really come here for dinner. The eggplant in  kenari  (almond) sauce and garlic bread are highly recommended. The grilled fish is a solid choice too.

Best Time to Visit the Banda Islands

Maluku province, and the Banda islands, have the opposite weather pattern to the rest of Indonesia. While June-August are great months for the rest of the country, these months are the wettest in the Bandas. When I went at the end of June, it rained every day.

According to Maga, the  best months to visit the Banda Islands   are months with an R in them : January, February, March, April, September, October, November and December.

Rain tends to come down in HEAVY tropical downpours, which last just an hour or two. Rain falls mainly early in the morning, late afternoon or at night. As a result of the rain and choppy seas, small boats to nearby islands are often cancelled during the rainy season.

No boats were running to Hatta Island at all because of this, which was very disappointing. 

I’d say that days were 60/40% between rain and sunshine.

What to Do in the Banda Islands

• Snorkel Snorkel Snorkel!
• Climb to the top of Gunung Api for a breathtaking view of the Archipelago
• Go to Banda Besar. Stop at the pearl farm before heading up to Lonthoir for another great view
• Go to Pulau Ay for a few days
• Look for mandarin fish under the deck at Vita Guesthouse
• Chat with the fishermen at the market. They love showing off their catch
• Watch the sunset from the runway
• Go to Pulau Hatta for a few days if boats are running

Have a good time in the Bandas! Let us know in the comments below if there is a better place to snorkel than the Bandas.

13 Comments

Hello! As a Slovenian reading this article, I am really surprised to hear us mentioned as customers on Pulau Ai since I cannot seem to find any kind of information on our slovenian forums.,but I guess a dive club is organizing the whole thing and keeping it undercover….haha will have to ask around. I always seem to find a fellow slovenian traveler on the other side of the world even though there is only 2 millions of us :-). But you have confirmed that maybe my plan for Indonesia in November, I will have to continue from Raja Ampat to Banda Islands and Sulawesi to try to avoid the rainy season in Bali, Borneo and others lesser Sunda Islands, but I am worried that even though i will be there in the dry season, that the Covid Situation will yet again make my transits and travel a P*** in the a**. Thank you for your blogs, it always comes in handy reading your impressions and informations on travel. Regards, Laura

The Bandas, Raja Ampat and Sulawesi sounds like a fantastic trip. I took the ferry from the Bandas to the Kei islands and then flew to Makassar in Southern Sulawesi. September shouldn’t be too wet, but then it is the weather so no one knows. Have a great trip, and hope Covid gives us all a break.

Great travel article as well as excellent and informative photos! (‘A picture is worth a thousand words’). Thank. you. One question though. How in the heck does one get in touch with either Ardy’s Homestay and/or the Green Coconut Resort? I haven’t had any luck finding email or telephone #s on the internet. My wife and I would like to go to Pulau Ai during the upcoming dry season. If the snorkeling is anything like Raja Amat (we were there 5 years back) it would certainly be worth any hassles getting there.

Again, thank you for such a helpful travelogue.

Hi David. We are glad that you found it helpful. I assume that these places don’t have emails or Facebook pages. I have this number for Green Coconut, maybe give it a try on Whatsapp: +62 812 424 106 67. For Ardy, which was fantastic, I have nothing. Once you get to Bandaneira, ask your guesthouse about accommodation on Ai. I’m just a little jealous of your Banda trip 🙂 Enjoy!!

Thanks for this great and at times quite intimate travel guide. Will consider Banda islands

Hi. Love this blog post. It’s convinced us to go to Banda Islands next month. Do you have the WhatsApp for Maga?

Sam Air is now flying from Ambon to Banda, presuming rain allows, one-way 380,00 rupiah.

Pemda ferry is a new ferry option in addition to Pelni. Pemda leaves Mondays and Thursdays from Ambon at 21.00, arriving in Bandeira at 06.00, Not sure about the return leg. It’s a new ship. Rp150,000 for an airline-type seat that you can sleep in; Rp190,000 for a bunk bed in a dormitory (single gender) and Rp600,000 for a bunk in a cabin for 4 pax.

Thank you so much for the new information on transportation to the Bandas, Deidra. Unfortunately I don’t have contact details for Maga. He will probably find you, other wise ask your guesthouse about a guide/fixer.

Great article. Just arrived Ambon and looking for a guide to take us to the food markets. Any tips? We are headed out on a dive boat for 10 days so only have a short time in Ambon.

Hi Cynthia, I didn’t see much of Ambon besides the ferry terminal. Get an ojek ( motorbike with driver) or a taxi and ask them to take you around town. Someone is sure to know someone who can take you around. Have a good trip and I hope the food is good!

Try the English fish and chip shop. It’s amazing that they have set one up here but they don’t understand that “fish and chips” are two items. We ordered chips as well as portions are small and they just didn’t understand what we wanted. It had the history of chip shops in Britain all over the wall!

What a really great post – informative, interesting and great photos. Thanks.

Thanks for the information . Access to the Bandas has changed . There is no more speed ferry, so it ´s either Pelni ferries or flights . Sam Air operates 2 flights / week from Ambon to Bandaneira .

Nicolas, thank you for the update. I’ll update my post to reflect your valuable information. Thanks again

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Top 34 Most Popular Things to Do in Banda Aceh, Indonesia – Travel Guide & Tourist Attractions in Banda Aceh

Discover top things to do in Banda Aceh, and best sightseeing when you are on vacation in Banda Aceh, Aceh, Indonesia. Banda Aceh is a capital of Aceh province, Indonesia, located in the northernmost of Sumatra Island. this city holds a lot of historical and cultural values that based on Islamic Sharia Law. However, the Hindu culture still had influence on Banda Aceh traditional ceremonies. Banda Aceh has interesting tourist objects. For the culture and historical tourist attractions you can visit namely Aceh State Museum, Baiturrahman Grand Mosque, Gunongan, Kerkhof Peucut and many other. Banda Aceh has also marine tourist destinations such as Ulee Lheue Beach, Ceureumen Beach and Alue Naga Beach. the marine tourism activities that you can do in that beaches are swimming, fishing and wind surfing.

Banda Aceh had fully recovered from tsunami and earthquake disaster on late December 2004 and brought many international aid such as Red Cross and NGO to helped many victims and recovered Aceh from the disaster. And at this time Aceh is recognized worldwide and inviting many tourist to come. There are many memorial tsunami heritage that still well preserved till now. The tsunami historical object in Banda Aceh that you can visit are Tsunami Museum, Stranded Floating Electricity Vessel PLTD Apung, Boat of Roof, Aceh Thank to The World Monument, Baiturrahim Mosque, Tsunami Mass Burial and many other.

How to get to Banda Aceh

To get to Banda Aceh, there are daily flight from Kuala Lumpur Malaysia served by Air Asia Sdn, Bhd to Sultan Iskandar Muda International Airport in Blang Bintang, Aceh Besar which is located approximately 17 kilometers from the center of Banda Aceh. There are also other international flight served by Malindo and Fire Fly from Penang Malaysia. If you are from Jakarta or Medan, there are domestic flights served by Garuda Indonesia, Citilink, Batik Air and Lion Air with 2 hours 50 minutes flying from Jakarta and 1 hour 5 minutes from Medan to Banda Aceh Airport.

Transport in Banda Aceh

If you need a transport to go for sightseeing in Banda Aceh city or need a pick up and drop off transport from Sultan Iskandar Muda Airport Banda Aceh to many destinations in Aceh such as Ulee Lheue Ferry Port, Lhoknga Surf Beach, Takengon, Singkil or Ketambe, we are Safari Wisata International Company provide you a transport both rental car and pick-up – drop off. You may check below the transportation service you may need with the cost list:

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If you only transit or stop over for a while in Banda Aceh and willing to visit some interesting places in Banda Aceh, we provide a day tour or trip according to your need. Please check the trips we offer to you below. You may contact us for inquiries or booking to WhatApp +6285360139141 or Email : [email protected] ,

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Pulau Weh Diving Package, Sabang Weh Island Dive Trip Price With Resort, Scuba Diving Sites, Season & Best Time

As the main gateway to many enchanting tourist destinations in Aceh, Banda Aceh has many points of interest and things to do. You will many amazing & unique culture and interesting places. Here we invited you to see more points of interest, travel guide to Banda Aceh and Best things to do in Banda Aceh city.

Top 34 Most Popular Things to do In Banda Aceh & Popular Best Places to Visit in Banda Aceh, Aceh, Indonesia:

• Visit Baiturrahman Grand Mosque

Baiturrahman Great Mosque is a landmark and religious center in Aceh located in the middle of the city and become one of the most popular place to see. The mosque has beautiful architectures which combine Europe and Middle East Style. The mosque is one of the icons of Aceh region. Baiturrahman Grand Mosque is a symbol of religion, culture, spirit and struggle of Acehnese. The mosque built in 1612 during the reign of Sultan Iskandar Muda. But some people say the mosque built earlier in 1929 by Sultan Alaidin Mahmudsyah. The mosque had caught fire several times by Dutch during colonialism and rebuilt by Dutch in 1879 and completed in 1881 during the reign of Sultan Muhammad Daud Syah which is the last Sultan of Aceh. Nowadays the mosque become a landmark in Banda Aceh. The mosque was also survived from Tsunami and Earthquake in 2004 with little damage. Today the mosque has 7 union shaped domes, 8 minarets and 32 pillars. Now, the mosque has more beautiful sight like Nabawi mosque in Medina, Saudi Arabia. The expanse of green grass replaced by marble floor with 12 giant electric umbrellas and a pound built in front of yard.

• Visit Tsunami Museum

Aceh Tsunami Museum is the historical tsunami disaster museum in Banda Aceh. The tsunami museum built to commemorate the horrific tsunami disaster on 26 th December 2004 and the victims estimated more than 240.000 people. Aceh Tsunami Museum is located on Sultan Iskandar Muda Street, Banda Aceh and open daily from 9.00 to 12 and 14.00 to 16.00. the museum has several sections on the first floor including the main entrance that showing the darkness path with the water flow down the wall reminding of the devastation, videos played room that showing the tsunami disaster. The second floor are the educational, library, simulation room, 4D room and a souvenir shop.

• Visit PLTD Apung Tsunami Monument

PLTD Apung was floating electricity vessel to support electricity to Banda Aceh city and the ship was pushed by the tsunami wave of about 4 kilometers from the Ulee Lheue Beach to the middle of Punge Blang Cut Village. At this time, it becomes the popular tsunami monument. The 63 meter long vessel was capable to produce the power of 10.5 megawatts. The vessel has a weight of 2,600 tons and no one imagines this vessel can move by the tsunami wave about 9 meter high to the middle of village. At this time, the tourist can walk up to the vessel and inside of the vessel has a museum where you can see the history of the boat and the tsunami.

• Visit Stranded Boat on Roof

This Stranded Boat on Roof is the fishing boat that was stuck on house roof during the tsunami disaster on last December 2004. The tsunami wave on December 26, 2004 had carried a 20-ton fishing boat to above Mr. Misbah & Abassiah family house in Lampulo. The ship is 25 meters long and 5,5 meter wide and made by the wood. The ship has save a total of 59 peoples live on a wooden boat when the tsunami happened. Every day, there are the tourists from both domestic and foreign tourist visit this tsunami monument. 

• Visit Baiturrahim Mosque

Baiturrahim Mosque is a mosque located close to Cermin beach Ulee Lheue area which is a witness to the power of tsunami destruction in 26 th December 2004. The tsunami waves at about more than 10 meters high wave hit the mosque but it still remained standing among the ruin surrounding building. Baiturrahim Mosque was built around 17 th century and one of the legacy of Aceh Sultanate.

• Visit Ulee Lheue Tsunami Mass Burial

Uluee Lheue Tsunami Mass Burial or Meuraxa Tsunami Grave yard is the tsunami mass grave located in the former Meuraxa Hospital complex which had been destroyed by the tsunami and earthquake in 2004. The Ulee Lheue Tsunami Mass Grave in every 26 th December, the people of Aceh especially the family of victims come to pray. In this graveyard, there are 14,264 tsunami victims buried. The grave is located on Sultan Iskandar Muda Street, Meuraxa District, Banda Aceh. Not so far from Ulee Lheue ferry harbor. 

• Visit Aceh State Museum

Aceh State Museum is cultural and Acehnese heritage museum that keep various historical items and antiques. The Museum built resemble a traditional Acehnese house in form of a stilt house a high as 9 feet above the ground. The building is more than 200 meter square. The pillars of this house made from selected types of hardwood with the total 44 pillars. Aceh State Museum is one of the oldest museum in Indonesia established in 1915. Today the museum collects various items such as archaeological items, ethnographic items, old manuscripts, historic painting, traditional household items, kingdom’s item and many others.

• Fishing at Buro Islet

Buro Islet is the very small island about 10 miles from Banda Aceh. This fishing spot is a good spot for angle to catch various kinds of fish such as grouper, trevally and tuna.

• Visit The Cemetery of Syiah Kuala

Syiah Kuala Grave is the tomb of Aceh’s Great Moslem Scholar & Leaders in the Sultan Iskandar Muda era. Syiah Kuala is the popular name of Teungku Syekh Abdurrauf As Singkily, a large-scale Acehnese Iternational Ulama. He was born in Singkil in 1615 and studied for 19 years in Egypt, Mecca and Medina. He died in Banda Aceh in 1693, buried near the estuary (Kuala in Acehnese). It was the name of the place that was sown on him with the nickname “Sheikh in Kuala”.

• Having a Seafood at Lamnyong Seafood Culinary Center

Lamnyong is famous seafood culinary center in Banda Aceh. The most popular dishes is grilled fish. You can choose the reef fish you like such as grouper, snapper and many other. Besides, the squid and shrimp also available. The grilled fish serve with Acehnese traditional sauce and delicious.

• Visit Peucut War Memorial of Kerkhoff (Dutch Cemetery)

Kerkhoff Peutjut Cemetery is a Dutch’s soldier cemetery who died during the Acehnese Peucut War. There was more than 2.200 Dutch soldiers were buried in this grave yard including General Kohler. At this time, the place become a tourist attractions in Banda Aceh especially the Dutch tourists. As we may know, the Acehnese people were very determined against the Dutch colonial. This Kerkhoff is become a historical evidence. This Kerkhoff Dutch Grave is the largest overseas Dutch military cemetery located in Banda Aceh. In Dutch history, the Aceh War was the most bitter war experience more than Napoleon War.

• Visit Sultan Iskandar Muda Tomb

Sultan Iskandar Muda was Aceh’s King of Aceh Darussalam Kingdom who brought Aceh reached its golden age era. Aceh Kingdom was the fifth largest Islamic Kingdom in the world in 16 th century ago. Sultan Iskandar Muda was known as a fair king, including to his own family. One of his son named Meurah Pupok was beheaded in front of public because he made serious mistake. The Sultan Iskandar Muda Tomb is located near Krueng Daroy river, close to Governor residence or adjacent to Aceh State Museum.

• Seeing the Thanks to the World Monument

Aceh Thanks to the World Monument is the monument in the form of gratitude from the people of Aceh to the volunteers, NGO, International Institution and the countries who have participated in reconstructed Aceh after the Tsunami and Earthquake disaster in 2004. The monument is located strategically in Blang Padang Square Park precisely in the center of the city and very close to many other tourist destinations such as Seulawah RI 001 Monument, Kerkhoff Peucut and Tsunami Museum. The main of this monument in the form of 5 building resemble waves with the inscription. There are also placards can be found along jogging track with a total of 53 placards made in the shaped of like a half of ship’s body sank. In the placards wrote a message of “Thank You & Peace” with the flag of the countries that help Aceh during the tsunami. The message in the placards wrote in various official language of the countries.

• Visit Seulawah RI 001 Monument

Seulawah RI 001 Monument was the first Indonesia aircraft donate by Acehnese people in struggling against the Dutch and later become forerunner of the Garuda Indonesia Airways. The Monument is located in Blang Padang Square Park close to Tsunami Museum. This monument was erected with the aim of commemorating the resistance of Acehnese people against the Dutch in 1948. This aircraft monument was a Dakota DC-3 type aircraft with the length of 19.66 meters and 28,96 meters wingspan which can fly up to speeds of 346 km/hr. at that time, the RI 001 had a role in transported the weapons and ushering the journey of Indonesia’s first president Mr. Soekarno in raising spirit of the struggle.

• Visit Kandang Meuh Burial Ground

Kandang Meuh Grave is an ancient tomb complex located on Jalan Sultan Alauddin Mahmudsyah No. 12 Banda Aceh. The grave buried the kings who ruled of Sultanate of Aceh Darussalam and their relatives. According to the board, on the left, the tombs included the princess of Raja Anak Bulu Hulu King, Sultan Alaudin Mahmudsyah (1760-1764) and Tuanku Zainal Abidin and other’s Sultan’s families. On the right side, Pocut Rumoh Geudong or Meurah Limpah or Pocut Lamseupeung (Consort of Sultan Alaiddin Ibrahim Mansur Syah), Pocut Sri Banun (daughter of Sultan Alaiddin Ibrahim Mansur Syah), Sultan Alaiddin Ibrahim Mansur Syah (1857-1870), Sultan Alaiddin Jauhar Alam Syah or Sultan Husein (1795-1824), Putro Bineu or Pocut Meurah Di Awan (mother of Sultan Alaiddin Jauhar Alam Syah), Tuanku Prince Husein (Son of Sultan Alaiddin Ibrahim Masur Syah and Commander of Aceh Fleet. Tuanku Zainal Abidin (Commander of the Aceh Darussalam Sultanate during Sultan Alaiddin Ibrahim Mansur Syah and father of the last Sultan of Aceh, Sultan Alaiddin Muhammad Daud Syah.

• Visit Pendopo Governor Complex

Pendopo or Meuligoe is the former Dutch’s governor residence and today it’s the official residence of the Governor of Aceh. This building was built on the remains of the Sultanate of Aceh in 1880. This building was initiated by Lieutenant Karel Van Der Heijen who at that time served as the Dutch Military and Civil Commander in Aceh (1877-1881). This building can still be seen and functioned as the Residence of Governor of Aceh.

• Visit the Grave of King Reubah

According to the history, Raja Reubah was a traveler from Malaya who came to Aceh then married with a cousin of Sultan Iskandar Muda. This historical grave is visited by some Malaysian tourist to see the history of it. The grave is located in Lamlagang Village Banda Aceh.

• Visit Gunongan

Gunongan is mountain miniature with labirins inside built by Sultan Iskandar Muda for his beloved queen named Princess of Putroe Pahang from Pahang, Malaysia. The building is the rectangular building resembling a flower and three-storey with a crown-shaped in the main level. It was built in the 16 th century located in Jl. Merapi No. 37 Banda Aceh.

• Visit Putro Phang Park

Putroe Phang Park is a park made for Empress of Sultan Iskandar Muda named Putroe Phang which means Princess of Pahang, who was from Pahang, Malaysia. The park is located at the city center of Banda Aceh.

In this park is often held the Art & Music Weekend Show where you can see a variety of art performances ranging from music to various kinds of dance including the traditional dances.

• Visit Tsunami Education Park

Tsunami Education Park is a tsunami education park built to give the information and tsunami education related to tsunami and earthquake. The park has an area of 4500 square meters located in Punge Blang Cut Village close to PLTD Apung Stranded Ship, Banda Aceh. You can see the tsunami historical records here and photos of the tsunami in Aceh in the last of December 2004.

• Visit Bugis King’s Burial Ground

Bugis King’s Burial is located in front of Aceh State Museum. It reflects the long and best relationship between Aceh Kingdom and Bugis Kings which was from Celebes Island.

• Visit the Grave of King Jalil

Raja Jalil is said to be grandfather to Sultan Iskandar Muda who ruled Aceh Kingdom in 1607-1636 and his father is Sultan Alauddin Riayat Shah Al-Qahar who ruled in 1539-1571.

• Visit Alue Naga Beach

Alue Naga is a one kilometer long black sand beach in Banda Aceh. The beach is really calm with a great view. You can see the remains destroyed area surrounding.

• Visit Syiah Kuala Beach

Syaih Kuala Beach is another black sand beach located in the northern part of Banda Aceh. The beach is normally visited by local people and playing with kids in this beach. along the way to this beach you will see a flat area overgrown by mangrove which was the area that destroyed by the tsunami in 2004.

• Having nice Acehnese Traditional Dishes & Curry in Hasan Restaurant or Lem Bakri Restaurant

In Banda Aceh you can have variety of Acehnese Traditional Foods. Acehnese cuisine is always refer to the using herbs. Ayam Tangkap is a popular cuisine in Banda Aceh which is fried chicken with leaf of traditional herbs that produced very nice flavor.

• Visit Ceureumen Beach

Ceureumen or Cermin Beach is the black sand beach in Banda Aceh located in Ulee Lheue area. Many local visitors with family visit this beach during afternoon and crowded during weekend. They come for marine activities such a swimming, sunset sightseeing, and other recreational activities. The beach is located approximately 7 kilometers from Banda Aceh city center

• Visit Aceh Market

Aceh Market was exist since 1965 located on the Perdagangan Street built during Dutch era. At this time the Aceh Market has modern and traditional market where you can get both traditional items or modern items.

• Visit Blang Padang Square

Blang Padang Square is open space and the center for community activities, ceremonies and to relax and exercise. There are the jogging tracks, volley court, basketball court, tennis court and others

• Having Special Culinary at REX

REX is open space restaurant located strategically in the center of Banda Aceh and very close to many tourist attractions in Banda Aceh. The place is also close to various popular hotel. REX is serving variety of foods and beverages usually during night time.

• Visit Baitul Musyahadah Mosque

Baitul Musyahadah Mosque is unique mosque in Banda Aceh with the dome shape of a Traditional Acehnese Hat called Kupiah Meukeutop. The mosque also known as Kupiah Meukeutop Mosque.

• Enjoy the Sunset at Ulee Lheue Beach

Ulee Lheue is one of most visited tourist attractions in Banda Aceh and it also the best place for sunset sightseeing and fun fishing.

• Enjoy the best coffee in Solong Coffee

Almost all of Acehnese people like coffee very much and it becomes the custom of Acehnese in everyday life drinking coffee sometimes more than one times day. Ulee Kareng coffee is one of the most popular coffee in Banda Aceh where you can get it in Solong Coffee. You can have a good coffee in Solong Coffee Shop located in Ulee Kareng, just 13 minutes from Baiturrahman Great Mosque.

• Enjoy Acehnese Special Noodle at Mie Razali

Acehnese Noodles is Acehnese special noodle cooked in Acehnese traditional style and very delicious. You may have a great Acehnese special noodle in Mie Razali.

• Dining at Grand Aceh Culinary

Last things to do in Banda Aceh is dining at Grand Aceh Culinary. Aceh Culinary is the culinary center and one of the best place for dining in Banda Aceh located on Sultan Iskandar Muda Street, Meuraxa District, Banda Aceh which is close to Ulee Lheue Beach. you can have various drink ranging from coffee to milkshake. You can also have various food ranging from rice to noodles. The price is not so expensive and the place is perfect for chill-out with friend or family.

We also has other post related to Aceh Tourism you may check below:

• Things to do in Aceh
• Things to do in Weh Island
• Things to do Banyak Islands
• Things to do in Simeulue
• Things to do in Aceh Besar

Hopefully this post about Most Popular Things to do In Banda Aceh & Banda Aceh Travel Guide can help you to find some activities you can do in Banda Aceh.

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Home » Travel Guides » Indonesia » 15 Best Things to Do in Aceh (Indonesia)

15 Best Things to Do in Aceh (Indonesia)

Aceh is a province in the northern tip of Indonesia and sees far fewer visitors than many other parts of the country. The province is known for the devastating tsunami of 2004 which killed almost 200,000 people, and it is also notable for being the only place in Indonesia to have Shariah law. The province is less well known however for its attractions and natural beauty, but actually Aceh has some of the best beaches in the country, and the capital city of Banda Aceh has plenty to recommend it.

If you like interesting museums and pretty architecture then you will find a plethora of engaging locations in Banda Aceh, as well as several monuments dedicated to those who lost their lives when the tsunami hit. Banda Aceh is not the only place of note in the province however, and you can easily find strips of golden beach and serene islands off the coast. Aceh is also the home of one of the most famous national parks in Indonesia, and there are opportunities for trekking, hiking, and camping all over the province.

Let’s have a look at the best things to do in Aceh :

1. Visit the Tsunami Museum

Over 170,000 people in Aceh lost their lives as a result of the tsunami of 2004, and the Tsunami Museum in Banda Aceh acts both as a monument and an education center regarding the tragedy.

The museum has rolling footage of the tsunami and the aftermath, but one of the most gripping parts of the museum is the waterfall sections which aim to mimic how the towering waves would have felt.

These areas of the museum consist of dark corridors that drip with water, and as you move along you will be able to hear the sound of rushing waves all around you.

It is a powerful and very moving experience and is also one of Aceh’s most famous attractions.

2. Camp at Blang Kolam Waterfall

If you are Lhokseumawe in Aceh Province then consider taking a trip to Sidomulyo Village where you will find the Blang Kolam Waterfall.

Actually twin cataracts, the waterfall rises up over 75 meters and is surrounded by beautiful rainforest.

You can take a short trek out to the waterfall which will take you through lush rainforest with stunning scenery, and at the end of a sweaty hike you will be rewarded with the cool mist that comes off the gushing water.

Many people also choose to bring some camping gear and stay overnight as the setting is incredibly serene, so if you like communing with nature then get ready to set up camp in the middle of the forest.

3. Climb aboard the PLTD Apung

Aceh understandably has a range of attractions dedicated to the tsunami and another one of these located in Banda Aceh is the PLTD Apung which is the name of a large ship.

When the tsunami struck Aceh it carried the ship inland where it has been positioned ever since, and it has now been preserved as a tribute to those who died in the raging waters.

You can visit the boat and even climb aboard and from the deck of the ship you can take in the views that stretch all over the city.

This is a quirky attraction and also a timely reminder of the power of the sea and it is worth the trip alone to see this ship sitting in the middle of the city.

4. Have a coffee at Warung Kopi Solong

People may not realize that Aceh is famous for its coffee, but actually all across Indonesia Acehnese beans are in high demand.

To try some for yourself you need to head to Warung Kopi Solong which has been in business since the 1970s and is famous as the place to come if you want good coffee in the province.

This coffee shop also serves a range of snacks and you can see how they grind the beans as well as their amazing coffee pouring technique which filters the coffee before it goes into your glass.

You can even buy bags of their signature beans here to take home as a souvenir.

This coffee shop is immensely popular in Banda Aceh and is also the place to come if you want to see how the locals hang out in a province where alcohol is banned and bars and nightclubs don’t exist.

5. Enjoy the rainforest in Ketambe

Gunung Leuser National Park starts in the province of North Sumatra and stretches all the way into Aceh.

Many people choose to visit the park via Bukit Lawang in Sumatra, but if you want a more secluded section of the rainforest away from the crowds then the best place to do this is in Ketambe in Aceh.

The park is made up of primary rainforest and is full of a plethora of flora and fauna including orang utans and monkeys.

There are a range of hikes that you can take from short day trips to longer treks that take several days and let you camp in the middle of the forest.

6. Visit the Museum Negeri Banda Aceh

The Aceh Museum in Banda Aceh is a great place to visit if you want to find out more about this corner of Indonesia.

It is not the largest museum in Aceh, but it is filled with interesting galleries and you will find a range of items here such as ancient farming equipment, textiles, weaponry, and even a few local oddities.

One of these is the stuffed baby buffalo which is on display and is notable for having two heads.

The museum is closed on Mondays but if you are in the area at another time then make sure not to give it a miss if you want a fascinating insight into Acehnese culture and history.

7. Explore Rumah Aceh

Rumah Aceh is actually a section of the Museum Negeri Banda Aceh complex and is made up of a traditional local house on stilts.

The former home has been turned into a museum and offers an insight into how people in Aceh would have lived in the days of old.

This is one of the best examples of traditional architecture so make sure not to miss it when you visit Museum Negeri Banda Aceh.

8. Sunbathe on Lampuuk Beach

Some of the best beaches in Indonesia are found in Aceh, although some of them lend themselves to surfing and other water sports.

The currents around Aceh can be strong, so if you want to swim and sunbathe then the place to do this is Lampuuk Beach which is located outside Banda Aceh.

The beach has miles of rolling sand and makes a great spot if you want to sunbathe or paddle in the water.

As the beach is around 20 minutes away from the capital you can easily go there for the day and the beach looks out over the gorgeous Indian Ocean giving you some stunning sea views.

9. Visit Kherkhof

Banda Aceh is full of moving monuments and one of these is Kherkhof which is a large cemetery that is filled with Indonesian and Dutch graves.

These graves belong to soldiers who would have been buried here after they were killed in action fighting against the Acehnese.

Unfortunately the cemetery was partly destroyed by the tsunami and the grave stones couldn’t be saved, but these have now been replaced with simple wooden crosses and you can also find inscriptions of the names of those who died at the entrance of the cemetery.

10. Marvel at Mesjid Raya Baiturrahman

Mesjid Raya Baiturrahman is often referred to simply as Mesjid Raya which means Main Mosque and this is perhaps the most beautiful of all of Banda Aceh’s attractions.

The mosque dates from the 19th century and was built during the Dutch colonial period, and is covered with ornate aesthetic touches.

Once inside you will find beautiful towering domes as well as Islamic art work and the view of the mosque when it is illuminated at night is also not to be missed.

You can visit the mosque outside of prayer time and non-Muslims are permitted to enter as long as you dress conservatively.

11. View Gunongan

Gunongan is one of Banda Aceh’s famous attractions although you may not know what it is at first glance.

Actually Gunongan is a monument that was built by the sultan Iskandar Muda for his wife.

As she missed her hometown of Pahang in Malaysia, Iskandar Muda commissioned the statue which would also have been used as a bathing place by the princess.

Now the monument is open to the public and the stone work and carvings here are well worth a visit.

12. Go surfing at Lhok Nga

Many people may be surprised to hear that Aceh has a surf scene, but just 15 kilometers away from the central hub of Banda Aceh is Lhok Nga which is known for its water sports.

The sea here is choppy and has some great surf breaks, so you can easily rent a board and take to the water to ride the waves.

As well as surfing, kite boarding is also popular here and you can skate across the sea while harnessing the power of the wind.

13. Have dinner at Pasar Malam Rek

Banda Aceh is famous for its night markets and one of the best of these is Pasar Malam Rek.

The market gets going once night falls and stalls are set up that sell delicious food such as noodle dishes, fried snacks, and Indonesian satay or skewers of grilled meats.

This is also one of the cheapest places to grab some of the local bites, so if you are on a budget or just want to sample a range of local delicacies then don’t miss this night market off your itinerary.

14. Snorkel at Pulau Weh

Pulau Weh is one of the main reasons for people to travel to Aceh Province and the beaches here easily rival those in Bali.

Just a short journey by ferry from Banda Aceh takes you to this secluded island which is surrounded by turquoise waters and lined with soft golden sands.

Some of the best snorkeling and diving to be had in Indonesia can be found off shore from Pulau Weh as the visibility is excellent and you can expect a plethora or underwater life including turtles and rays.

15. Climb Pantan Terong Hill

Located in the center of Aceh is Pantan Terong Hill which stands at 1,830 meters above sea level.

Domestic tourists flock here to climb the hill, and the main reason to do this is to enjoy the amazing views from the top.

From the summit of the hill you can look across to the neighboring glassy lake which resembles a cauldron as well as take in the lush tropical scenery.

15 Best Things to Do in Aceh (Indonesia):

• Visit the Tsunami Museum
• Camp at Blang Kolam Waterfall
• Climb aboard the PLTD Apung
• Have a coffee at Warung Kopi Solong
• Enjoy the rainforest in Ketambe
• Visit the Museum Negeri Banda Aceh
• Explore Rumah Aceh
• Sunbathe on Lampuuk Beach
• Visit Kherkhof
• Marvel at Mesjid Raya Baiturrahman
• View Gunongan
• Go surfing at Lhok Nga
• Have dinner at Pasar Malam Rek
• Snorkel at Pulau Weh
• Climb Pantan Terong Hill

Banda Neira

The Banda Islands, located 200 km from the city of Ambon, consist of 10 small volcanic islands; Rhun and Ay to the west, Manukang to the northwest, Pisang to the east, Hatta to the southeast, Banda Besar to the south, and the main central island of Banda Neira along with Pulau Gunung Api to the northeast and Keraka at the entrance to the Banda Neira strait.

Banda Neira, formerly known as the spice archipelago that produces nutmeg. The island is also surrounded by a pristine sea, full of coral and beautiful marine life.

IDR 3,500,000

Island Hopping, Historical, Photography

Up to 8 pax

• Island hopping among the original Spice Islands, particularly one of the best, Hatta Island.
• Visit the private nutmeg plantation in Banda Besar.
• Enhance the knowledge of history and culture that made each islands distinct heritage.

Pricing Details

From IDR 3,500,000 / person (including full board meals, public ferries and snorkel boat, and air-con accommodation)

2023 Schedule

Trip Itineraries

The itinerary is given as an indication and can be adjusted depend on the tides, currents, and weather conditions.

Departure / Return

Kota Ambon, Maluku, start Pk 21:00; finish Pk 08:00

Day 1: Ambon Arrival to Banda Islands

Take any flight to Ambon City, we will have dinner together before we take an overnight ferry to Banda Neira. We could also arrange a city tour, if you want.  Ferry will leave at 21:00 and arrive the next morning.  Overnight onboard. ( Accommodation: ferry onboard, dinner )

Day 2: Lava Flow – Gunung Api – Neira Island

Upon arrival, we will continue to explore the Lava Flow at Gunung Api Island and visit the nearby Karaka Island.  In the afternoon, we will walk around the village, visit Banda Neira airport strip and Belgica Fort to watch the sunset.  Enjoy dinner and BBQ in the night. ( Accomodation: homestay, breakfast, packed lunch, dinner )

Day 3: Rhun – Nailaka – Ay Island

After breakfast, we will visit the infamous Ay Island to see nutmeg plantation and learn the history of Fort Revenge.  Continue to Rhun and Nailaka island to do some sightseeing and snorkeling before get back to Neira.   ( Accommodation: homestay, breakfast, packed lunch, dinner )

Day 4: Banda Besar – Nutmeg Plantation – Ambon

Visit historical sites in Banda Besar Islands, Holandia Fort, nutmeg plantation, dutch cemeteries, and pearl cultivation sites. Proceed back to Neira Island and then we will prepare to leave to take ferry boat back to Ambon at 18:00.  Arrive in Ambon on the next morning.  We will drive you to hotel or airport. ( Accommodation: ferry onboard, breakfast, packed lunch, dinner )

What's Included

• 2 nights accommodation in Banda Neira (ocean view)
• Meals as per itinerary
• Ferry boat return Ambon - Banda Islands in a bunk bed or private cabin
• Chartered motor boat for island hopping trip
• Airport transfer
• Tour leader
• Entrance fees, retribution
• Mineral water

What's Not Included

• Flight return Ambon
• Additional charge for stay in a private cabin 
• Additional entrance fees for foreigners
• Snorkel gears rental
• Travel insurance

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Triton Bay & Banda Sea 2023 Trip Recap

TRITON BAY & BANDA SEA  Trip Report 2023

A Bluewater Travel Underwater Photo Workshop in the Heart of the Coral Triangle

Trip report words & images by mark strickland.

Located on the western end of the huge island of New Guinea, Indonesia’s Triton Bay is home to an incredible variety and volume of marine life, and boasts some of the world’s healthiest and most colorful reefs.  In fact, it is believed to rival even Raja Ampat for the title of the world’s greatest marine biodiversity.  Above the waterline, the expanse of verdant green rainforest that borders these waters shows little sign of human habitation, which has much to do with the unusual abundance of fish and general health of the reefs, as there is little impact from humans.  Diving here is a rare treat, and for most of us who participated in Bluewater’s recent dive expedition and photo workshop, it was a trip of a lifetime. 

Triton Bay is also among the most remote dive locales on the planet.  Accordingly, it takes several days of travel to reach this region, typically one day to get to the capital of Jakarta, followed by another full day of domestic flights to reach the isolated town of Kaimana.  Some of our group had already spent a week doing land-based diving in Triton Bay, and rendezvoused with the rest of us at Kaimana’s one hotel, where we enjoyed an evening meal and a good night’s sleep before being picked up by the crew of our floating home for the expedition, the Amira.  

A gorgeous example of the classic Indonesian Phinisi-style sailing vessels that once plied these waters in the heyday of Spice Islands trading, these vessels have enjoyed a real renaissance in modern times as luxury diving liveaboards.  I’ve been aboard a number in recent years, but have never encountered one as spacious and well-thought out as Amira .  Being a whopping 170 feet in length with a beam of over 30 feet, there was never a time when we felt crowded, aside from maybe a few peak moments in the camera room when everyone was first setting up their gear.  

Stepping aboard for the first time, we were greeted by Amira’s smiling hospitality team and handed a cold welcome drink while cruise directors Kai and Nora gave us a brief tour of the boat and showed us to our respective cabins.  Before long we had gotten underway, but with no dive scheduled until the next morning, we had ample time for preparing dive gear and cameras.  

As the dawn rose on our first full day onboard, we found ourselves surrounded by the calm waters of Sisir Bay, which would be the site for our initial dives.  As Kai explained in the briefing, this would not be a typical checkout dive, in that the bottom would be nowhere in sight, nor would we see any coral.  None of us were complaining, though, as we were about to swim with the largest of all fish, whale sharks, which are attracted to one of several floating fishing platforms or bagans, used by locals to catch small fish that are attracted to the lights they display every night. Lacking refrigeration, they keep their catch in the water in holding nets to keep them fresh until they can be offloaded to a collection boat that makes the rounds every few days.  Storing their catch in this way results in a steady stream of fish scent entering the water, which tends to attract various predators, notably whale sharks, which show up quite regularly looking for handouts.  While there are no guarantees, we were thrilled to hear that 2 whale sharks were indeed in the area, and showed no signs of leaving!  

Due to the unusual situation and the fact that we’d be staying very shallow, rather than stick to a set dive schedule, we would be free to dive throughout the entire morning, something that most of us took full advantage of.  With multiple tender boats standing by at both Amira and the bagans, all we had to do was say the word to be whisked back to change tanks or delivered back to the bagans for more whale shark action.  From the moment we got in the water, we had almost nonstop opportunities with a pair of young male whale sharks, one about 15 feet in length, the other probably 20 or more.  Much of the time they were slowly circling the bagans at depths between 5 to 40 feet, regularly angling up to the surface, where they would often hang vertically, mouthing the fish-filled storage nets in hopes of extracting some of the catch.  Thanks to a prearrangement made with the crew, the fisherman would periodically offer them a netful of fish, keeping them keenly interested in sticking around.  As a result, we had virtually nonstop photo ops with these giant fish, as well as periodic appearances by a pod of bottlenose dolphins, none of which seemed the least bothered by our presence.  At one point, one of the guests, Mary, got a bit more attention than she bargained for, as one of the whale sharks apparently mistook her leg for a fish net and clamped down on it!  Fortunately for Mary, whale shark teeth are very tiny and the interaction was brief, with no harm done.  But does she ever have a big fish story to share!   

Looking for other places to dive with whale sharks? Check out our list here .

Having spent the entire morning with the whale sharks, the afternoon was dedicated to travel, as we steamed towards the north end of Pulau Aiduma, which forms the southern entrance of Triton Bay.  There, we anchored near a site call Bo’s Rainbow for a night dive.  A tiny limestone islet, it made for an easy, shallow dive.  Visibility wasn’t great, but the amazing variety of marine life more than made up for it.  Night diving in such locales is mostly about small critters, and this site did not disappoint in that regard, with plenty of flatworms, skeleton shrimp, cowries, and the seldom-seen solar-powered nudibranch.  A few larger animals were also encountered, including a foot-long Spanish Dancer nudibranch and a wobbegong shark!

There was no need to move the boat before the next morning’s dive, as we had barely had a look at Bo’s Rainbow the night before, and the scenery certainly deserved being seen in the daytime.  While the above-water portion of this site is very small, the sloping reef surrounding it provided plenty of space for us to spread out, where we explored among black coral trees and large boulders covered with soft corals , crinoids and tunicates, surrounded by schooling fusiliers and friendly spadefish, as well as colorful reef dwellers like six-band and emperor angelfish. Further reducing any chance of crowding, our group of 18 was divided among 4 different guides, each departing on a staggered timetable, allowing each group to have their section of reef more or less to themselves.  As we stair-stepped up to safety-stop depth, many of us enjoyed exploring a large tunnel that bisected the islet, the walls of which are decorated with vibrantly-hued soft corals and crinoids. 

So far the conditions had been very easy, with little or no current.  This certainly made for effortless diving, but any experienced diver knows that the action picks up when the current starts moving, and many of us were longing for just that.  On our next dive, among a couple of detached rocks at Pulau Arus, we got our wish.  A brisk current was pulling through the shallow pass between the rocks, so we started on the up-current end, backrolled into the stream, and enjoyed a free ride over the colorful shallow reef, surrounded by big swarms of fusiliers and surgeonfish.  Visibility had improved as well, further enhancing the beauty of the scene.  Big colonies of orange cup coral, orange and pink soft corals and magenta gorgonians extended their polyps into the flow, as several barramundi cod, bumphead parrotfish and blue-ring angelfish hovered near the reef.  

For the afternoon dive, we moved to one of the regions most celebrated sites, known as Little Komodo.  A sloping reef surrounding another small islet, it’s actually 3 distinct sites.  On the same side of the rock as Little Komodo, a protected bay is known as the Aquarium, while the opposite side is called Pintu Arus.  Due to their close proximity, half of us dived the Little Komodo side, the others at Pintu Arus.  Splitting up this way and staggering the dinghy departures again avoided any crowding underwater, and we had enjoyable and scenic diving on both sides of the rock, with a wide variety of reef fish including various butterflyfish, wrasses, damsels and surgeonfish, as well as a pair of clown triggerfish that were visiting a cleaning station.  Several divers also encountered a broadclub cuttlefish.  But the current was once again slack, which made for easy conditions but little schooling action, and the abundant orange cup corals were closed and therefore less than impressive.  But it was easy to imagine what it would look like with current!  Like many of these small islets, this rock is shaped more or less like a mushroom, making for a cool overhanging ledge under the “mushroom cap” at safety stop depth. 

The night dive took place at another nearby islet, Batu Tengah.  Easy conditions made for a leisurely exploration of a rubble-covered slope, where we encountered lots of Tozeuma shrimp and other crustaceans, as well as a baby scorpionfish, a Ceratosoma nudibranch, and several squid that were attracted to our lights.

The first dive of the next day was at a favorite site of famous divemaster Larry Smith, called Larry’s Dive Heaven.  Here we finally enjoyed very good visibility, and were entertained by passing schools of surgeonfish and fusiliers, as well as a spotted eagle ray.  The sloping reef was populated by numerous barrel sponges and pink gorgonian fans, but with almost no current, there wasn’t much going on.  

Our next site was another pair of rocky islets, called Batu Jeruk, where most of site consisted of large, smooth rocks that sloped down to a sand bottom where we found a huge field of garden eels.  But the highlight were several large boulders that were completely covered in small, pastel pink and orange soft corals, and served as home base for several large angelfish, as well as multiple sweetlips species and a wobbegong shark.  Our time there was limited due to depth, but our ascent to the shallows was rewarded in a narrow passage between small rock and main island, where a brisk current made for lively schooling action with fusiliers and jacks, and also prompted large colonies of orange cup coral and soft corals to extend their polyps, making for a colorful finale to a great dive. 

For our afternoon dive, we moved once again to a very small limestone islet known as Christmas Rock or Tim Rock, named for the well-known photographer of the same name.  It’s a very compact site, but is inhabited by tremendous fish life, including bumphead parrotfish, groupers, sweetlips and regal, emperor, blue-ring and yellow-mask angelfish.  Schooling fish were everywhere we looked, including damselfish, surgeonfish, blue-lined snappers, porgies, sweetlips and goatfish.  Large, white-polyp black coral trees dominated the deeper reef, replaced by vibrant soft corals and sizable clusters of orange cup corals in the shallows.  Many of us never moved more than a few dozen feet from where we started the dive, as there was just so much to see.  Before we knew it, we’d been submerged an hour and it was time to ascend, but even at safety-stop depth the scenery was captivating, as we explored among colorful soft corals, crinoids and anemones under the mushroom-cap overhang in the shallows.  

For the night dive, we returned to the previous evening’s site, now dubbed Anja’s Dream in honor of one of the guests who was especially intrigued by the critters there.  Once again it did not disappoint, producing a nice variety of sleeping fish, various crustaceans and several octopus. 

Our fifth diving day began at Batu Jeruk, where we encountered brisk current in shallows, accompanied by lots of fish life, including schooling chromis, anthias and several species of fusiliers.  Some nice soft corals were on full display at entry point, but there was too much current to photograph them, so initially we just went with the flow.  Descending the gentle slope, we found less current at depth, and spent considerable time at one boulder that was covered with orange soft corals, as was much of the surrounding bottom.  Semi-circle and six-band angelfish meandered around the base of the rock, as did ribbon and diagonal-banded sweetlips.  Eventually making our way back to the shallows, we finished the dive in the narrow pass between the small rock and the island where the current had now eased considerably, and found a pair of photogenic longfin bannerfish hovering near a yellow crinoid and cluster of orange cup corals. 

Our second morning dive had to be cancelled due to rudder problems, but by afternoon the problem had been sorted in time for another beautiful afternoon dive at Christmas / Tim Rock, where we were greeting by a school of yellowtail barracuda.  Moving uphill, we explored among huge black coral trees with white polyps, surrounded by a school of blue-lined snappers.  Looking closer, we found several longnose hawkfish resting among the branches.  But the highlight for me was a particular large boulder that was covered with massive clusters of orange cup coral, accented with soft corals of several colors.  Completing the scene were a handful of diagonal-banded sweetlips which seemed happy to pose for photos, being amazingly tolerant of our close approaches.  While most of the group swam off to explore the rest of the site, several of us spent the remainder of the dive right there, taking turns to be in the best photo position.  

For the night dive, it was back to Anja’s Dream, where we encountered lots of skeleton shrimp, as well as several squid and dozens of Tozeuma shrimp – a species that I had only seen occasionally until this trip! 

Diving day 6 found us still around the north end of Pulau Aiduma near the south end of Triton Bay, where we spent all 3 daytime dives alternating between Little Komodo, Pintu Arus and The Aquarium, although one group chose to dive at Batu Tengah for macro.  Those who opted for Pintu Arus and Little Komodo were richly rewarded, as the current was pulling just enough to bring in the schooling fish, including a sizable shoal of chevron barracuda.  Reef fish like coral trout and lobetail snappers were also out in force, and the soft corals and orange cup corals were open and inflated to their full glory.  Even 3 dives did not feel like enough! The night dive was at a site called Batu Kecil, where the rubble bottom revealed a wide range of critters, including several nudibranchs and flatworms, along with a host of small crabs and shrimp.  

Our first dive of day 7 was back at Bo’s Rainbow, where several of us hunkered down near some gorgonian fans, waiting for the resident pygmy seahorses to strike a photogenic pose, including a male that was so pregnant it appeared ready to burst.  Further down the slope, a forest of large soft coral trees sprouted from the sand, but were wilted due to lack of current. There was no shortage of nice scenery, however, including safety-stop depths, where many of us explored the shallow swim-thru, while others were entertained by the antics of clownfish families as they danced among the tentacles of their host anemones. 

Until now, a big swell had precluded visiting any of the open-sea sites to the southwest, but the seas were finally laying down, prompting us to move to an offshore site known as Three Rocks. Here, we dived a ridge off the westernmost rock that’s surrounded by deeper water.  Deeper areas featured large black corals and small gorgonian fans, but between the gray skies and limited visibility, there was little color.  One highlight, however, was a cluster of crinoids at about 90 feet that was home to an ornate ghost pipefish.  Stair-stepping up to shallower depths, we saw a banded sea snake and several squid, as well as a regal angelfish.  Fields of healthy staghorn dominated the shallows, but visibility was too limited to do them justice. 

For our afternoon dive, we explored a rubble slope at Batu Kecil / Batu Tengah, which turned out to be cephalopod city!  Early in the dive we encountered a trio of pygmy cuttlefish that were expertly blending in with the sandy substrate until realizing they’d been discovered, at which point they switched to a striped pattern and jetted off.  Next was a netted octopus, then a tiny bobtail squid, but the highlight was a thumb-sized blue-ring octopus that initially displayed a nondescript brown coloration, until finally activating the neon-blue rings that it’s named for, sending us photographers into a near frenzy.  When it was all said and done, however, everyone in our group got decent shots of this rarely seen creature.  The night dive was at the same site, and revealed a host of creatures that we hadn’t seen on the previous dive: Tiny clumps of sponge hosted numerous decorator crabs, porcelain crabs and juvenile filefish, while several crinoids played host to squat lobsters and a black and orange ornate ghost pipefish. We also watched in amazement as a sea star sprinted across the bottom at about a foot per minute!

Originally, we had planned this trip to spend roughly equal amounts of time in Triton Bay and the Eastern Banda Sea , following an “A to B” itinerary and disembarking at the port of Suamlaki.  And that’s what we did, except that heavy weather in the Banda Sea dictated that we spend a few extra days in Triton Bay.  Given the outstanding quality of diving that we enjoyed there, the delay actually worked out just fine, but by the morning of day 8, most of us were ready for a change of scenery.  Before getting underway, however, we had time for one more dive at Christmas / Tim Rock.  Finally, we had perfect conditions – steady, moderate current, decent visibility (40 ft), and soft corals and Tubastraea in full bloom!  The resident reef fish were also out in force, making it a perfect farewell dive for our time in Triton Bay.  Having over a hundred miles to cover to our next dive site, we did no further diving this day, but thoroughly enjoyed our time onboard, catching up on photo editing attending another session of the photo workshop, or just plain relaxing.  As sunset approached, we also enjoyed a lively jam session on the top deck, complete with refreshments and highly entertaining musical performances by our multi-talented crew, which included plenty of singing and dancing by the entire group… a good time was had by all!  

The next morning we awoke among the Kai Islands, at a site called Taman Tanimbar.  Once again we had a lot of distance to cover before the next morning, so it would be a 2 dive day, covering different sections of the same hard coral reef.  From the moment we did our first back-roll, it was obvious that something was very different from Triton Bay – the water was a startling shade of blue, with visibility approaching 100 feet!   Starting at roughly 15 ft, we followed the sloping reef down to roughly 60 ft. where the terrain turned into a gently sloping rubble bottom.  Almost immediately we found a handsome white-mouth moray, along with several longfin bannerfish and regal angelfish.  Although I was equipped with a wide angle lens, I couldn’t resist poking around a bit in the rubble, where I encountered a pair of robust ghost pipefish.  Most of the time, however, I concentrated on the slope and shallow reef, where we found a wide variety of healthy hard and leather corals, along with occasional gorgonian fans and a large olive sea snake.  

For the second dive, we got to revisit the same sloping reef, so I decided to do a bit of exploring, swimming across the rubble field toward deeper water, where I found another steep drop-off from than ranged from 90-130 ft.  Here I found lots of healthy fans, distinctive “Dali” sponges and some soft corals, as well as 2 hawksbill turtles.  Meanwhile, those who returned to the rubble field relocated the same ghost pipefish we’d seen on dive 1, while Bryan found a large broadclub cuttlefish and David found a juvenile pinnate batfish!  

Getting underway again amidst blue skies and calm seas, we enjoyed a delicious lunch in the open air of the shaded foredeck, where most of our meals were served.  Thanks to our talented chef and his team, every meal was outstanding, and always featured a variety of meats and seafood, fresh veggies and fruits, with a variety of vegetarian options as well.  On this day, lunch included delicious grilled chicken on lemongrass skewers, fresh tuna, sauteed mixed veggies and veggie quiche… yum!  And, to top it off, just after lunch we had a surprise visit by a pod of melon-headed whales, which briefly kept pace with the boat, frolicking on the surface like dolphins.  That evening, several of us took advantage of the clear skies, making our way to the top deck, where we were treated to a spectacular view of the Milky Way, as well as the Southern Cross, a sight that most of us seldom have a chance to see without the influence of city lights.  

Our next day in the Banda Sea included 3 dives, each at a different section of sloping hard coral reef at a small island called Pulau Kalbur.  Our first dive was on the east side, where we again enjoyed good visibility, and were surrounded at times by big schools of lobetail snapper and redtooth triggerfish.  We also saw a young Napoleon wrasse, marble grouper, pairs of bluehead tilefish, and several banded sea snakes.  For the second dive, we moved around to the island’s west side to a site known as Excalibur, where we explored a steep slope that started at 30 feet and bottomed out around 130.  The current was mild at first, but picked up to moderately strong towards the end of the dive.  Seeming to appreciate the current, masses of schooling fish gathered in mid-water, including fusiliers, white pyramid butterflies, and red-tooth triggerfish, along with occasional squadrons of bluefin trevally.  5 Napolean wrasse of various sizes swam parallel with us for some time, and we also encountered several olive and banded sea snakes as well as a great barracuda, the first I’d seen on this trip.  Unlike Triton Bay, we did see evidence of fishing here, including lots of old fishing lines and some rubble from blast fishing, but overall the reef looked quite healthy, including large table corals and fields of different colored staghorn, and the fish life was outstanding.  Our third dive was on a different section of Exlalibur, where we once again enjoyed lively current and great schooling action, as we watched waves of fusiliers, surgeonfish, pyramid butterflies and chevron barracuda pass by.  Reef fish were also well represented, with many squarespot anthias, magnificent and decorated dartfish, and several blue-girdle angelfish, a species we had not encountered earlier in the trip.  Both banded and olive sea snakes also made appearances, as did a reef octopus that put on quite a display by squirting ink before jetting off.  

Having steamed another 80 miles or so overnight towards Suamlaki, our last diving day took place at the island of Pulau Nuisnitu, where we spent the first dive exploring a submerged ridge that turned into large plateau at depths of 40 – 90 feet.  Arriving at the bottom, we found ourselves among large gorgonian fans, orange and barrel sponges, and schools of fusiliers and some sizable snappers.  There were also numerous blue girdle angelfish and several squaretail groupers.  For our second dive of the day and last one of the trip, we moved to a nearby site called The Boulders, which consisted of sloping hard coral reef, populated by healthy fan corals, many large sponges, and some beautiful hard corals in the shallows.  Throughout the dive, we were entertained by a near constant parade of fish life, including schooling lobetail snappers, bumphead parrotfish, young Napoleon wrasse, giant sweetlips, and a 3 foot Malabar grouper, topped off by a pair of hawksbill turtles that appeared at the end of the dive, as if to bid us farewell.  

Late that afternoon, the crew covered the salon windows to limit the sunlight streaming in, and we all settled in to view a “best of” slide show, video review and photo contest, which served as a culmination of the photo workshop that had been going on throughout the trip.  Not only was it a great chance to relive some of our favorite underwater moments, but it also showed how much everyone’s results had improved over the course of the trip – I think everyone ended up with at least a few shots that they were proud to share.  As we moved out to the main deck for dinner that evening, we all marveled at the impressive spread that had been prepared for our last full meal onboard – it was obvious that no effort had been spared.  Actually, that attitude was prevalent throughout the trip, as we enjoyed what I believe was one of the most dedicated, hard-working crews I’ve encountered in many years of liveaboard diving.  Between the outstanding service, beautiful boat and remarkable marine life in a remote, beautiful and seldom-visited corner of the world, it had been an exceptional adventure that will live on in our collective memories for years to come.  

  Join our next photography workshop to Dumaguete!

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GRAND DARBAR - Hotel Reviews (Banda, India)