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From Normandy to the Dordogne: readers’ favourite spots in France

Atmospheric villages, friendly surf and a walk in Napoleon’s footsteps are among our readers’ favourite French connections

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Surf and the Paris sleeper, Bay of Biscay

Sun, sea, surf, sand and a sleeper train to Paris: Hendaye has it all. Nestled in this less-discovered corner of the Bay of Biscay, bordering Spain, Hendaye has a quaint old centre with cobbles and cute little cafes. Head to Le Palmier for great pizza. Over the road a lovely little artisan market sells local crafts and tasty treats. If you’re more adventurous, Hendaye’s sheltered bay offers the perfect playground for beginner surfers. Sleeper trains between Paris and Hendaye mean sustainable travel is possible. Lie back, watch the world pass by and wake up in Paris for breakfast. Hannah

Dragons and volcanoes, central France

The Chaîne des Puys is a unique mountain range and a Unesco world heritage site to boot. It’s a string of 80 young, dormant volcanoes (not extinct!) along the Limagne fault. For a full volcanic immersion, take a train up the iconic Puy de Dôme , picnic deep down inside the crater of Puy des Goules and swim in the beautiful crater lake, Gour de Tazenat. To some, the chain looks like a sleeping dragon and it’s no wonder this land of volcanoes is the place of dragon myths, told in mesmerising 3D cinematics at Vulcania theme park. Vince Sandwell

Biking to Batz, Loire-Atlantique

Cycling slowly down the winding Loire, soaking up the landscape, butterflies and birdlife between vineyards and wine caves, then evenings punctuated by the city delights of Saumur, Angers and Nantes, each a pedaller’s paradise. A wonderful surprise greets me when I reach the sea at Batz-sur-Mer : beaches and rocky coves on one side and vast, hand-worked salt marshes on the other. This understated village has more than enough, with a handful of small hotels, restaurants, cafes, a sheltered harbour beach and a wider peninsula ringed by a wonderful 25-mile coastal cycle route. Simply sublime. John Martin

Art and architecture, Alsace

Alsace is maybe one of the most beautiful French regions. All of the villages are gorgeous – Turckheim, Eguisheim, Kaysersberg, Sélestat, Obernai... and there are plenty of castles, like the Haut Koenigsbourg . The s Unterlinden museum in Colmar houses a medieval altarpiece called the Retable d’Issenheim , a masterpiece. The humanist library of Sélestat is really cool too, and Strasbourg is a great destination, with a very warm, ambient feel to it. The cathedral is incredible. The museum of the Oeuvre Notre-Dame and the Palais Rohan are definitely worth a visit too. Benjamin Lee

A walk to Die for …

The Route Napoléon inspired a week-long meander from Nice to Grenoble. The breathtaking Gorges du Verdon was a definite highlight, but it was the town of Die that stole our hearts. At the foot of the Vercors hills, it has a really special atmosphere – both laid-back and lively, with a creative heart. Take some time to visit independent artisans like L’Armellier (woodturning) and Yanka (illustration). And for food, you really can’t beat Les Petits Fourneaux , a vegetarian restaurant tucked away near the cathedral where you can eat under a canopy of vines. Lynne Robertson

Abbey and gardens, Somme

In Argoules in northern France is the Hôtel Abbaye de Valloires, part of a 12th-century abbey with formal gardens. Although the rooms themselves are almost monastic in their simplicity, it is wonderful to stay in surroundings of such grandeur for very reasonable prices ( rooms start at just €88). However, if you wish to tour the inhabited part of the abbey you will need to do the tour in French (although English handouts are provided). The ticket price of €15.90 includes the hour-long tour and a day’s access to the gardens, which are beautiful. Chiara Pinto

Historic Fréjus, Côte d’Azur

Typically, Provençal holidays may be associated with the glamorous coastal towns of Saint-Tropez and the like, but head a little north and a little inland and you’ll find the magical old town of Fréjus. It is a town of beautiful narrow streets and centuries of history, including particularly interesting religious buildings, not least the cathedral, which is resplendent with late-medieval tombs and art. Kerbside cafes and delicious boulangeries abound – Maison de La Tarte is a particular favourite – and contribute to a sense of calm contentedness when you visit. Jenni

Crêpes in Dieppe, Normandy

A pleasant cruise from Newhaven to Dieppe. A short walk round the pretty port. A stop-off for Crêpes Normande with Calvados and a piche t de cidre . Finally arrival at La Tour aux Crabes , a chic modernist hotel overlooking the harbour. Champagne on the terrace and a reservation for dinner at Le Turbot (Rick Stein recommendation) signals the start of le weekend français ! Carol Jones

Canoes and great food, Dordogne

Saint-Léon-sur-Vézère is one of the most beautiful villages in France and a gastronomic delight. Hire canoes on the river and watch the daredevil kids jump from the steep sides into the Vézère River. In the summer months there is an amazing food market at night, but on other days every restaurant has fabulous food. From the little riverside cafe to Le Petit Léon – a garden restaurant with local but high-end cuisine. Certainly not cheap, but such a great setting and just beautiful food. Marianne Marshall

Winning tip: Hill walks, eastern Pyrenees

Laroque-des-Albères sits above the Côte Vermeille in the foothills of the eastern Pyrenees. It’s a delight, with winding streets leading to a tower with spectacular views of the Mediterranean coast. But the real secret lies in the Albères hills. The village is the starting point for many walks – the least ambitious but loveliest of which is a 20-minute stroll (clamber for the final stretch) taking you to natural river pools, or bassins . An idyllic setting for a shady and often solitary swim away from the heat of the coast. Refresh with a beer or glass of banyuls wine at Café des Artistes . Dawn Taylor

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The Ultimate Guide to Visiting the Dordogne

I fell in love with the Dordogne on my week-long visit last year to France. It’s a region that took me by surprise and enchanted me with historic villages and charming chateau. This guide to visiting The Dordogne is all of my favorites from my trip.

The Dordogne is a region often overlooked by American tourists, perhaps because many consider visiting other regions of France first like Provence or Normandy. But the Dordogne should not be skipped, it’s an incredible place of history, grand landscape, and lots to do. It makes for a wonderful destination after Bordeaux as this is the closest major city.

For me, this region is quintessential France. It has it all and you can easily spend a proper week or so road-tripping the region. With its rich history, natural beauty, and gastronomic treasures, the Dordogne continues to be a celebrated destination that offers a truly immersive French experience.

Why is the Dordogne Famous?

The Dordogne region in France is famous for its captivating blend of prehistoric heritage, medieval charm, and culinary excellence. I know travelers come to explore the renowned Lascaux Caves, stroll through picturesque villages like Sarlat-la-Canéda , and savor the region’s iconic cuisine.

If you’re considering your time in the Dordogne, read on for how to spend your time, where to stay, and more in the Dordogne.

Short on Time? Here Are My Top Picks for the Best Hotels in the Dordogne:

• Le Petit Manoir , for best historic, luxury stay in Sarlat
• Hotel Montaigne , for the best modern stay in Sarlat
• Domaine de Rochebois , for the best luxury countryside retreat

For more on how to make the most of your time, don’t miss my in-depth guide to Sarlat-la-Canéda !

A Guide to the Best Things to Do in the Dordogne

Helpful travel tips for visiting dordogne france, getting there.

To reach the Dordogne Valley, you can fly into Bordeaux-Mérignac Airport, which is the closest major airport to the region. From there, you can rent a car and drive east to the picturesque Dordogne Valley. Bordeaux to the Dordogne Valley is approximately a 2 to 2.5-hour drive, depending on your specific destination within the Dordogne region. Having a car is an absolute must for visiting, I always use Discover Cars for the best rates.

Length of Time

I think 5-7 days is the right amount of time for exploring the Dordogne. You can’t do it all in a week but you would get a good sense of the area. It’s quite vast, the third largest area in France, so keep this in mind.

Time of Year

The best time to visit the Dordogne region in France is during the spring and early autumn. April to June and September to October offer pleasant weather with mild temperatures, making it ideal for outdoor activities. These months also tend to be less crowded with tourists compared to the peak summer season. However, if you enjoy warmer weather and don’t mind larger crowds, July and August are also popular months for visiting the Dordogne.

Where to Stay in The Dordogne to Visit

One of the most challenging parts of planning a trip to The Dordogne is finding the right area to stay. When I did all of my research, I landed on the most central location of Sarlat-la-Canéda . The town of Sarlat-la-Canéda is in the heart of the valley and has everything you need. You’re minutes from the river, other picturesque towns, and sights. I’ve also included other incredible accommodations that would be worth considering.

Sarlat-la-Canéda Hotels

• Le Petit Manoir for best historic, luxury stay in the center
• Hotel Plaza Madeleine À Sarlat for a historic stay in the center
• Les Cordeliers for best luxury hotel just outside the city center
• Hotel Montaigne for the best modern stay in Sarlat
• Domaine de Rochebois for the best luxury countryside retreat

Other Notable Hotels to Stay At

• La Vieux Logis , a Relais & Chateux property in Trémolat
• Château de la Treyne along the river (unreal hotel for the pricepoint)
• Hôtel de Bouilhac in Montignac for a design stay
• Chateau de Maraval for a design maison d’hôte in Cénac-et-Saint-Julien
• Châteaux dans Les Arbres for most unique stay
• Le Moulin du Roc   for luxury with Michelin restaurant in Champagnec-de-Belair
• Le Moulin de l’Abbaye for luxury stay with Michelin restaurant in Brantôme

The Best Villages To Visit in The Dordogne

There are dozens of villages to choose from in the Dordogne when it comes to exploring. I’ve pulled together my top three favorites from this list of the best villages in the Dordogne . Many of the villages in this region are designated Les Plus Beaux Villages de France (which translates to “the most beautiful villages of France”).

Domme is a picturesque village nestled atop a hill overlooking the Dordogne River, offering breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. Known for its well-preserved medieval architecture, cobblestone streets, and charming shops, Domme is a must-visit destination for some of the best views over the Dordogne Valley. There are some great restaurants in town and lots of shops on the main street.

Beynac-et-Cazennac

Nestled along the Dordogne River, the village of Beynac-et-Cazenac is just under the Château de Beynac, a medieval fortress that looms above the village. This village is one of my favorites as it’s so petite but offers wonderful views and a step back in time. Do note that there aren’t many services here in terms of restaurants, more of a historic village to stroll.

La Roque-Gageac

This may be one of the most iconic villages on the Dordogne River, as it is built into the side of the cliffs. It’s dramatic, and right near lots of things to do. On the river’s edge, you’ll find several restaurants and shops lining the street. But don’t forget to make the climb up to the quiet village area.

Incredible Things to Do in Dordogne, France

Taste the local cuisine.

One of my favorite parts of time in the Dordogne is the chance to experience cuisine, often referred to as Périgord cuisine. Duck and goose play a central role in many traditional dishes, with specialties like duck confit, foie gras, and magret de canard (duck breast). Truffles, both black and white, are highly prized and used seasonally — keep an eye out for black truffle dishes.

The region is also known for its walnut-based products, you’ll see shops everywhere selling these seasonally. Chestnuts, wild mushrooms, and game meats such as venison and wild boar feature prominently in seasonal dishes. It’s such a foodie paradise and there are many Michelin-starred restaurants and cozy local cafes to stop into.

Visit Historic Castles

Dordogne is most known for its impressive medieval castles like Château de Castelnaud , Château de Beynac , and Château de Hautefort . All of these are wonderful castles to visit while there, and one other picturesque castle to visit is Château des Milandes . This historic château is renowned for its association with Josephine Baker, the famous American-born French dancer, who once owned the property and spent part of her life here. You can explore the château’s elegant interiors and lush gardens. Be sure to arrive early to beat the crowds.

Get Outdoors in the Dordogne

Paddle along the picturesque Dordogne River, taking in the scenic views and passing by charming villages and dramatic cliffs. It’s one of the best things to do and several places offer kayaks for rent along the river. There are many hikes and other places to go cycling as well if you’re looking to get active. This tour starts in Vitr ac and offers guided canoe tours down the river, whereas this kayak rental tour is self-guided.

Explore the Underground Caves and Prehistoric Sites

The Dordogne region is famous for its network of underground caves and grottoes, many of which are home to prehistoric art and stunning geological formations. The UNESCO Heritage Site of Lascaux caves in Montignac is renowned for its Paleolithic cave paintings, often referred to as the “Sistine Chapel of Prehistory.” Located in Les Eyzies-de-Tayac, Font-de-Gaume is one of the last caves in France with original prehistoric paintings that are still open to the public. The cave features intricate drawings dating back over 17,000 years. There are many UNESCO World Heritage Sites across Périgord Noir, so be sure to carve out some time for this.

See the Candlelight Tour of Les Jardins de Marqueyssac

This might be the best thing to do in the Dordogne. While Les Jardins de Marqueyssac is worth a visit any time of the year to see the exquisite gardens, they do have a special experience. In the summer months, the gardens are open late through night and are filled with two thousand little candles to light the paths. It’s so special and well worth booking tickets in advance.

Visit the Famous Sarlat-la-Caneda Farmer’s Market

There is not a better market in France than Sarlat’s farmers market. It draws in so many visitors that the town shuts down for market days — do arrive early! The big market is on Saturday morning though there is a seasonal one on Wednesday as well. You’ll find all of the fresh produce and seasonal cuisine here, a great spot to stock up on souvenirs.

See a Few Museums

Visit museums like the Musée National de Préhistoire in Les Eyzies-de-Tayac-Sireuil and the Château de Losse to appreciate the region’s cultural heritage. The Musée National de Préhistoire in Les Eyzies-de-Tayac-Sireuil is a must-visit destination for anyone interested in prehistoric history. Located in the “Capital of Prehistory,” this museum showcases a remarkable collection of artifacts, tools, and artworks from the region’s prehistoric periods.

Take a Day Trip to Rocamadour

If you’re looking for another iconic village in France to visit and doable within a day’s trip, consider Rocamadour in the Lot. It’s one of my favorite villages, somewhere I grew up going. It’s built into the side of the mountain, and so picturesque.

There are so many day trips that can be done for this region. I know people who even go as far as the volcanic mountains of Puy de Sancy and Puy de Dôme, icons of Massif Central.

Save This Post for Later on Pinterest

Ps — are you booking a trip soon use my booking checklist.

These are the sites I use most to book my own trips. Using the links below is a great way to support Bon Traveler’s travel journalism at no extra cost to you . If you need help organizing your itinerary, get my free travel itinerary template here .

1. Book Your Flights

Use Skyscanner to find the best flights. It searches 100s of airlines and websites across the globe to ensure you’re not missing out on any route options or deals.

2. Book Your Accommodations

Use Booking.com for hotels and guest houses. They have the biggest inventory and consistently offer the best rates.

3. Book Your Tours & Experiences

Use Viator or Get Your Guide to find the best tours and experiences. They are my favorite tour search engines. I always check both as their inventory varies depending on the destination.

4. Book Your Car

Use Discover Cars or Rentalcars.com to find the best car rental deals. I recommend comparing rental agency reviews on Google to ensure you are booking with the best company in that destination, as the reviews are often more accurate than the car rental search engines.

5. Don’t Forget Airport Lounge Access

Get a Priority Pass membership to gain access to 1,400+ VIP lounges and airport experiences worldwide. The Priority Pass app is the first thing I check when I have a layover. I’ve been a member for over a decade, and having a comfortable place to relax before and between flights makes air travel so much more enjoyable.

6. Don’t Forget Travel Insurance

I never leave the country without travel insurance. It provides comprehensive protection in case anything goes wrong (ie. illness, injury, theft, and cancelations, etc.). I use it frequently for my travels to stay protected.

My favorite companies that offer the best coverage and rates are:

• World Nomads (best for all-around)
• Safety Wing (best for frequent travelers)

Xx, Jessica

Related Posts

The 7 Most Beautiful Villages in Alsace, France to Visit

12 Best Places to Visit in France Outside of Paris (Plus Map!)

The 18 Best Hotels in Paris with Eiffel Tower Views

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Canoeing on the Dordogne

• — One of France's most celebrated rivers: wide, peaceful, calm, flat — Excellent for families, easy for beginners — Friendly hotels, all with pools; superb cuisine — Excellent views all along the river: picturesque perched villages and troglodyte cave dwellings

Highlights and Inclusions

• — All continental breakfasts and 3 evening meals — Canadian canoes or sit-on-top kayaks — Buoyancy aid and canoeing helmet — Luggage transfers between hotels

Our family run 3 star hotel is set within its own parkland just outside Rocamadour's ancient town walls. Wander round the town's medieval alleyways before dinner, which is included. You stay at the Hotel Les Esclargies (breakfast included)

After breakfast, we take you upstream to the small hamlet of Thezel, just south of Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne for the briefing and canoeing lesson. Then it's an easy paddle down to Carennac. This is one of the Dordogne's most picturesque villages, with lovely 16th century houses. Our hotel, with outdoor pool, is right in the heart of the village, overlooking the river. (Staying at Hostellerie Fenelon)

A fairytale village with a jumble of cottages and 16th century turreted manor houses along with the remains of the ramparts and the once-magnificent priory. Fenelon, still celebrated as the village's most famous son, was the very popular bishop here in 1681, and a local aperitif is named after him! It's fun exploring the narrow streets and alleyways and walks around the village, and on the causse, provide some of the very best views of the Dordogne. To explore further afield, you might like to hire a bike (request at time of booking) or take a taxi and visit the Gouffre de Padirac (9km away, via an uphill route), one of the region's important spectacles where you'll find amazing caverns, huge galleries, and a boat trip on the underwater lake. (Staying at Hostellerie Fenelon)

On the first part of the journey you pass below massive cliffs, paddling past four impressive riverside chateaux before arriving at Meyronne and our spectacular 11th century chateau hotel. (Staying at Hotel La Terrasse)

Why not relax at the hotel's pool, or visit the south of the river, by the Rochers Sainte-Marie and the Grotte de Lacave? Rocamadour (only a 15km taxi ride away, or use our cycling and walking route notes), together with the Mont St-Michel, is France's most venerated religious site. Kings once climbed the steps to the basilica on their knees, sailors prayed to the Black Madonna when in peril and the bell of her chapel rang each time she rescued another ship. The chapel is full of little model ships presented in gratitude. (Staying at Hotel La Terrasse)

Today is an easy paddle, with lots of interesting things to see along the river, including some beautiful riverside chateaux (look out for Belcastel and the impressive Chateau de la Treyne in particular). (Staying at La Vieille Auberge)

The prosperous farming country around Souillac was created from marshland by industrious 12th to 13th century Benedictine monks. Of the powerful abbey they built, just the abbey church remains, with outstanding bas-relief sculpture. Today Souillac is a bustling town, with good shops and a weekly local market. Visit the Musee de l'Automate, the largest collection of mechanical toys and dolls in France. (Staying at La Vieille Auberge)

Today it's relaxed canoeing down to Grolejac via St-Julien (a lovely village and a good lunch stop) through the heart of peaceful and prosperous Perigord countryside, with lots of time for swimming or lazing by the river. We pick you up from here and take you to your hotel in time for a dip in the infinity pool before dinner. (Staying at La Villa Romaine)

The tour ends after breakfast in Carsac- Aillac.

The trip was well planned out and so very relaxing and enjoyable. The hotels and especially the food were awesome. Would absolutely take another trip like this.

What was the most inspirational moment of your trip?

The canoeing was so relaxing and fun. The scenery was beautiful.

What did you think of your group leader?

The trip was self guided which was what we liked.

Do you have any advice for potential travellers?

Is there anything else you would like to add?

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The Dordogne

Few regions sum up the attractions of France better than the Dordogne. With its rich food, heady history, château-studded countryside and picturesque villages, the Dordogne has long been a favourite getaway for French families on les grandes vacances. It’s also famous for having some of France’s finest prehistoric cave art, which fill the caverns and rock shelters of the Vézère Valley.

Leave the planning to a local expert

Experience the real The Dordogne. Let a local expert handle the planning for you.

Attractions

Must-see attractions.

Grotte de Lascaux

France’s most famous prehistoric cave paintings are at the Grotte de Lascaux, 2km southeast of Montignac. Naturally sealed and protected for millennia, it…

Grotte de Font de Gaume

This extraordinary cave contains the only original polychrome (as opposed to single-colour) paintings still open to the public. About 14,000 years ago,…

Château de Castelnaud

The massive ramparts and metre-thick crenellated walls of this quintessential medieval fortress (occupied by the English during the Hundred Years War)…

Grotte de Rouffignac

Hidden in woodland 18km north of Les Eyzies, this tri-level cave is one of the most complex and rewarding to see in the Dordogne. Board an electric train…

Musée Gallo-Romain Vesunna

Part of the park that contains the Tour de Vésone, this sleek museum designed by French architect Jean Nouvel encompasses a 1st-century Roman domus …

Jardins de Marqueyssac

Horticulture fans won’t want to miss these famous manicured gardens, stretching along a rocky bluff overlooking the Dordogne Valley. Signposted paths lead…

Weekly Markets

Sarlat-la-Canéda

For an introductory French market experience, visit Sarlat’s heavily touristed Saturday market, which takes over the streets around Cathédrale St-Sacerdos…

Grotte des Combarelles

This narrow, very long cave 1.5km east of Font de Gaume was the first rediscovered in the valley, in 1901, and is renowned for its animal engravings. Look…

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May 10, 2016 • 5 min read

In addition to magnificent castles, prehistoric cave art and lush landscapes, the Dordogne is famous for its foodie traditions. Immersing yourself in its…

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The Dordogne and beyond

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france holidays

France is a diverse destination that can cater to all holiday desires. You can enjoy long holidays exploring the Dordogne, Normandy or Provence or quick trips on  Eurostar to Paris or Lille. Home to one of the most visited cities in Europe, Paris is perfect for those romantic weekends away drinking fine wine and roaming around the Louvre. Or you can head to the countryside for wine tasting in Burgundy or walking in Alsace. Visit the garden’s which inspired Monet or explore medieval marvels such as the citadel in Carcassonne. 

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