defender cruise control kit

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PRECISION CRUISE CONTROL LAND ROVER DEFENDER

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The PRECISION CRUISE CONTROL LAND ROVER DEFENDER is an Original Equipment quality, retrofit Cruise Control System. This particular system is compatible with the following vehicles:

          Land Rover Defender 2007-2011 2.4 Diesel

          Land Rover Defender 2012- 2.2 Diesel

PRECISION CRUISE is a retrofit electronic cruise control system that provides all the functionality and convenience of Original Equipment systems, along with many enhanced features. This unit comes pre-programed for your specific vehicle and the full vehicle compatibility list can be found under the compatibility tab above.

Luxury and Convenience

Our PRECISION CRUISE Control Systems take all the stress and frustration out of long distance travelling. Simply activate the Cruise Control and remove your foot from the accelerator pedal for a much smoother and more comfortable driving experience. Should you wish to increase or decrease your speed to suit driving conditions or traffic flow speeds, the cruise control provides the option to increase or decrease your speed by pressing the respective button on the cruise control arm.

Dual Memory Settings

The PRECISION CRUISE Control System features the ability to preset two Cruise speeds in the Cruise memory. This enables you to drive at your most commonly used cruise speeds at the touch of a button, without having to drive to the desired speed first.

Original Equipment Quality Equipment

All of our Cruise Contol Equipment is OE Quality and comes complete with a 'Plug n Play' Pedal Harness to reduce Installation time and cost. Our Universal Cruise Arm (pictured) is an OE Quality Cruise Arm with all the required functionality and performance of original equipment systems. However, there is also the option on certain vehicles to incorporate the Original Equipment Cruise Control Switch for an even more professional installation.

Independent Speed Limiting

The Cruise Control also features the option of setting an Independent Speed Limit. This is controlled via the Universal Cruise Arm and can be activated to prevent the driver from speeding in areas where speed limit restrictions are enforced. The Cruise control can still be used independently below this limit. Please note that this facility is not available on vehicles where the Original Equipment Cruise Switch has been installed.

Reduces the Risk of Speeding Fines

Recently, there has been a dramatic increase in the number of speed cameras and police surveillance equipment on the roads. Using the PRECISION CRUISE enables the driver to mainatain a safe (and legal) speed limit without the worry of being penalised.

Driving Optimisation and Fuel Saving

When the Cruise Control is activated, the vehicle speed is regulated more than 50 times per second, optimising driving performance. This in turn can also reduce fuel and transportation costs without comprimising vehicle performance.

Installation Service

We also provide a full installation service of all our PRECISION CRUISE SYSTEMS. Please contact us directly to arrange a quotation and book an appointment.

PLEASE SELECT YOUR VEHICLE IN THE BOX ABOVE SO THAT WE CAN PROVIDE YOU WITH THE CORRECT SYSTEM. PLEASE CONTACT US DIRECTLY IF YOU DO NOT SEE YOUR VEHICLE ON OUR COMPATIBILITY LIST AS WE MAY BE ABLE TO PROVIDE A SOLUTION FOR YOU.

Due to the unique nature of this product, certain vehicles may incur a lead time for despatch and next day delivery may not always be available.

The PRECISION CRUISE comes complete with a Universal Cruise Arm that can be installed on the steering column. Most kits also come with a ready made 'Plug n Play' pedal harness for easy installation

Full, vehicle specific, Installation Instructions will be provided with each Cruise Control System purchased.

VEHICLE COMPATIBILITY LIST

IF YOUR VEHICLE IS NOT LISTED BELOW, PLEASE CONTACT US DIRECTLY TO SEE IF WE CAN PROVIDE A SOLUTION FOR YOU

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NCS Systems trading as CANM8 Limited, Unit A2, Langham Park, Maple Road, Castle Donington. Derby. DE74 2UT

+44 (0)1332 855100

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Due to a transition within Jaguar Land Rover's (JLR) supply network, delays are expected for non-stocked Genuine parts—anticipate an additional 1-3 working days for dispatch. This nationwide change impacts all UK suppliers of Genuine Land Rover Parts, including us at LR Centre Ltd. For any questions or further information, please contact our sales team at [email protected] or Click Here to Chat with Us.

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01DTD4CCK - Fully Electronic Cruise Control Kit for Land Rover Defender TDCi Puma 2007-2016 - IN STOCK FOR INSTANT DISPATCH

Introducing the Fully electronic cruise control kit to suit both 2.2 & 2.4L Puma Tdci Td4 Defender made from 2007 until 2016.

Whether you’re tackling busy highfrom Mobile Centre!ways or long journeys, keep your speed controlled and constant with this easy-to-install kit.

Installing a cruise control can be complex and time consuming, but this kit has been specially modified in house for a DIY installation of just five wires—with no technical knowledge needed.  

The kit is supplied with everything that you need, including:

• Cruise Control ECU
• Column mounted control stalk
• Plug & Play throttle T harness (for simple wiring)
• Defender specific simplified wiring loom
• full instructions with colour photos

Once connected to brake and clutch (optional) speed pulse and ignition live – it’s good to go! It also has two programmable settings for commonly used speeds accessible directly from your control stalk.

With the Fully Electronic Cruise Control Kit from Mobile Centre you can travel smarter, stay safe in traffic and save money on fuel costs by maintaining speed over long distances.

Try it today and rediscover travelling at its finest!

If you have any questions about this product or any of the products in our range, please contact us on [email protected] or contact our main centre on: 0151 486 0066

Our delivery is very easy. We use flat rate fees across all our orders and this is calculated at the checkout. In some cases and normally with International orders we may not be able to calculate delivery fees automatically. Our system will allow you to order the products with free delivery, so you can guarantee the stock / order items. Our team will obtain the best and most price economical quote from a range of delivery suppliers and email you a link to our site to pay for delivery.

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About LR Parts

How to fit cruise control to your Defender - pictures

<span>Preperation: After disconnecting the battery earth lead, we begin by removing this lower trim from under the instrument panel. All the screws are size 30 Torx.</span>

<span>The upper trim is held by two screws at the back. Two front clips are released by pushing the trim up, then forward, at the front.</span>

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<span>Two more Torx screws hold the instrument panel at the front. When they are removed, the panel can be tilted forward to reach behind.</span>

At the rear of the instrument panel, the multiplug is disconnected by first pressing its lock button, then levering the black tab (arrowed) across.

<span>The instrument panel is now lifted clear and placed in safe storage. A connection will be made to the multi-plug later.</span>

<span>Down below, the right hand speaker is removed. The control unit for the system will eventually be located inside here.</span>

<span>Connecting the clutch switch: The yellow wire for the clutch switch is fed up through the speaker hole, together with the purple lead for the speed sensor connection.</span>

<span>From inside the engine bay, the end is snipped off a spare stub grommet and a length of MIG welding wire is fed through.</span>

<span>The yellow wire is fed behind the fascia, past the steering column then taped to the welding wire and pulled into the engine bay.</span>

<span>The black/white wire to the clutch switch is bared and the yellow wire twisted through it, and the joint is then soldered.</span>

<span>The new soldered joint and all cables are reinsulated by winding with soft adhesive insulating tape, and the switch plug reconnected.</span>

<span>Accelerator connections: The multiplug is unclipped from the accelerator pedal. Access is easier if the small black steel shield in front is bent up a little.</span>

<span>The bonnet release handle is released by removing the two bolts from its mounting bracket. The cable remains attached.</span>

<span>The new black accelerator harness is fed up behind the footwell trim and brought out at the top of the trim for the moment.</span>

<span>The two connectors laying over the accelerator pedal in the previous picture, are now connected to the socket on the original accelerator harness.</span>

<span>Higher up, on the multiplug we detached from the instrument panel earlier, a small screwdriver is used to prise the connector block out.</span>

<span>We access this connector block because we have to connect to one of two red/black wires, and this is the only way to identify them.</span>

<span>We need the red/black wire from pin 13. Only 14 and 30 are marked, but obviously our wire is to the right of pin 14, on this 2.2 TDCi (connector inverted here)</span>

<span>The purple wire from the control unit is soldered to the black/red (speed sensor) wire, and the joint insulated. Bonnet release is refitted.</span>

<span>Connecting to the brake switch: The blue wire from the control unit’s white plug is joined to the red from the lower plug, between the plug and the in-line fuse.</span>

<span>At the top of the brake pedal arm, the cover is prised off the brake pedal switch to make a connection here later on.</span>

<span>The red wire and the white/brown from the control unit are spliced into the green/orange and green/purple respectively on the brake switch plug.</span>

<span>After soldering and insulating the joints, the brake switch multi-plug and cover will be refitted, completing the wiring.</span>

<span>Here’s the cruise control operating switch. We need to mount this on the steering column, on the same side as the wiper stalk.</span>

<span>After removing six screws holding the steering column trim, the bottom half is lowered, exposing the steel bracket with slotted hole.</span>

<span>This hole position in the bracket is marked on the bottom trim, and the trim is drilled 10 mm and cleaned up with a file.</span>

<span>The side of the metal bracket with the hole in is now carefully cut off using a small disc cutter, and the edges filed smooth.</span>

<span>The switch harness is fed through the hole and the nut and washers fitted over it, before routing the cables to the speaker aperture.</span>

<span>While tightening the nut, the switch can be angled (thanks to its offset ferrule) to ensure it is clearly visible from the driving position.</span>

<span>With the nut tightened from inside to secure the switch, the two halves of the steering column trim are refitted, securing the switch.</span>

<span>Connecting and commissioning the controller: An eyelet is fitted to the white earth lead from the control unit and fixed to this facia/bulkhead stud and nut inside the speaker hole.</span>

<span>The pins on the colour-coded wires are pushed into the respective connector blocks according to the wiring diagram supplied in the kit.</span>

<span>The connectors are plugged into the control unit and excess cables are grouped and cable tied ready to go inside the facia.</span>

<span>The controller is initiated by operating the column switch in a simple sequence, confirmed by the LED on the back of the control unit.</span>

<span>Finally, the controller and cables are hidden in the speaker aperture, and the speaker and instrument panel refitted. Job done.</span>

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Land Rover Defender (2007+) - Cruise Control Kit

Fully electronic cruise control to suit both 2.2 & 2.4 Puma Defender models.

Stalk fits to the right hand side of the steering column.

Kit contents contains:

• Column mounted control stalk
• Plug & Play throttle T harness
• Simplified wiring loom

This item will fit the following model/s:

• Land Rover Defender - 2007 onwards

01206 512 338

[email protected].

Defender Puma Cruise Control Kit – 2007 Onwards – DA7480

£ 399.95 ex. vat Free Shipping!

Defender 2.2 & 2.4 TDCI Cruise Control Kit – 2007 Onwards – DA7480

Out of stock

• Description

Additional information

Defender puma cruise control kit - plug & play.

Improve the drivability of your TDCI Defender with cruise control. This simple upgrade brings your Defender up to spec and makes longer drives more comfortable and efficient. This will fit the 2.4 & 2.2 TDCI engines fitted from 2007 to 2016.

How it works:

On/Off: Activate ON/OFF to turn cruise control on and off. This will automatically turn off when the engine is switched off. Set: Drive at a constant speed and briefly activate SET/COAST. Remove your foot from the accelerator pedal as the cruise take control of the accelerator function of the vehicle. Turn Off: To deactivate cruise control, press the brake or clutch pedal. The system will remember the last selected speed. Resume: Active RES/ACC and the vehicle will return to the speed last selected unless the ignition has been switch off or ON/OFF has been activated in the meantime. Decelerate: Activate and hold SET/COAST for more than one second and the cruise control will gradually decrease speed until SET/COAST is released. The speed when SET/COAST is released will then be the new speed selected. A quick tap on the SET/COAST will decrease speed by approximately 0.6mph per touch. Accelerate: Activate and hold RES/ACC for more than one second and the cruise control will gradually increase speed until RES/ACC is released. The speed when the RES/ACC is released will then be the new speed selected. A quick tap on RES/ACC will increase speed by approximately 0.6mph per touch.

This complete kit comprises of a stalk which fits on the right hand side of the steering column shroud, the control module and all the wiring harnesses to connect into your vehicles loom. You'll need to connect into the wiring for your clutch switch and for the back of the dashboard too, so we'd recommend installation is done carefully and by competent hands. Aside from a little wiring, there is no additional ECU work or coding required.

Please note, it is not recommended to use cruise at speeds below 30mph, in congested areas, at excessive speeds or in adverse weather conditions.

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Home Land Rover Defender Cruise Control Land Rover Defender Puma Tdci TD4 2.2 & 2.4 Cruise Control MY2007 > MY20016

Land Rover Defender Puma Tdci TD4 2.2 & 2.4 Cruise Control MY2007 > MY20016 (01DTD4CCK) In Stock, Available for Same Working Day Dispatch

Description.

Fully electronic cruise control kit to suit both 2.2 & 2.4L Puma Tdci Td4 Defender made from 2007 until 2016.

We modify the kit in house to make DIY installation as straight forward as possible with only five wires needing connection, if DIY install is not your thing then we can offer an installation at our partner workshop located in Alcester Warwickshire.

Kit contents

• Column mounted control stalk
• Plug & Play throttle T harness
• Simplified Defender specific wiring loom

Has two programmable settings for commonly used speeds accesible directly from the stalk.

Connections required are brake, clutch (optional) speed pulse and an ignition live

Full Defender specific instructions with colour photos supplied.

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Cruise Control Kit Defender Td5

Model #: tfccktd5, terrafirma part.

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Terrafirma - Cruise Control Kits

Terrafirma electronic cruise control kits are available in two versions for 2002-2007 Defender Td5, as 'basic' and 'factory' and also 2007> Defender Td4 in the 'factory' version only.

For the basic version functions are controlled by two buttons. The speed is adjusted using the SET button. When this button is held down, the Defender accelerates; when it is released, the Defender maintains the current speed. The second button, RESET/RESUME has two function. If cruise control is active, pressing RESET/RESUME deactivates it. When it is pressed again, the most recently stored speed is recalled, and the Defender gradually accelerates automatically until this speed is reached. Cruise is also deactivated when the brakes or clutch are used. Cruise control can generally be used at speeds of 45km/h (28mph) and above. The basic version will not operate in conjunction with a GKN overdrive,

The 'factory' version is a highly sophisticated cruise control kit that looks and works as the name suggests exactly like you would expect in a factory fit option. The control stalk is perfectly suited to Land Rover Defender applications and operation barely requires your hand to leave the steering wheel. All typical cruise control functions are operated from the stalk and likewise cruise is deactivated with clutch and brake operation.

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Your questions answered: Cruise control and TDi conversion

Latest posts.

Range Rover Classic 3.9EFi Manual

10 august 2023.

In the pre-Tdi engine era, a ‘turbo’ badge was seen as a performance statement, so it became a bit of a joke when Land Rover applied it to the new TD. A genuine turbo is a rare sight today, though

The Tdi engines used to be a popular no-brainer swap a few years ago, especially when these early turbo-diesels were failing on a regular basis because the bottom end was weak. The turbo engine used the same big-end bearings and bolts as the earlier naturally aspirated 2.5-litre engine, and the additional load from the turbo caused the bolts to stretch, resulting in major failure. Probably all engines have since been upgraded and, in any case, if they haven’t failed by now, they’re good. The scene is different now, with originality becoming progressively more important.

The original Turbo Diesel engine was fitted from 1986 to 1991. Few survived, but those that have, should stay reliable

​​​​​​If you want to fit the 300Tdi engine, it preferably needs to come from a manual transmission Discovery, not an automatic which has Electronic Diesel Control (EDC) and makes the conversion far more complex. You’ll need new engine mountings to weld to your chassis (though bolt-on mounts are available, see later), the front section of exhaust, the intercooler and associated piping, and the radiator and oil cooler, plus many other connecting parts such as fuel pipes and filter and the ingenuity to plumb all of this in. There will be some juggling with the air intake, too, but none of this is difficult, just time-consuming.

The 300Tdi is a vast improvement over the turbo diesel, but swapping engines means a loss of originality value

The bellhousing will need its bolting arrangement altered to suit the Tdi engine. It’s a long while since I’ve done this, but I recall the bellhousing will need to be drilled to accept a couple of studs on the rear of the engine, and a stud or two may need to be removed. It’s simple enough, and will be obvious when you set the bellhousing up to the rear of the engine before installation (alternatively, swap the engine backplates).

The 300 Tdi will sit further away from the radiator and so the cooling fan will be less effective. So it’s worth fitting an electric fan which can be positioned closer to the radiator. Also confirm the running gear including transmission, brakes, steering and suspension are in good condition to handle the increased performance.

You can buy many dedicated parts for this job, including a complete conversion kit and the bolt-on engine mounting conversions (which avoids welding and fabrication) from steveparkers.com .

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• Land Rover Defender

Defender TD5 Cruise Control

• Thread starter ampo1975
• Start date Dec 13, 2009

Accelerating Away

• Dec 13, 2009

I've got a 2005 Defender TD5 and I'm really interested in installing cruise control (I get a sore right foot on long journeys). Apparently its really simple; however all the posts I've read have confused me. Some say it needs 2 switches, some say 3, and there are also some inconsistencies in which pins to use on the ecu. I'd really appreciate it if someone could provide me with a step by step definitive guide, with photos if possible, on how to do this simply and easily and also give me some advice on the best switches to use and how to wire them up. I'd like to use some that fit into the heated seat and electric window blanks in my dash if possible. I'm relatively competent with vehicle electrics, but I'm not to hot with all the symbols used in wiring diagrams, so please feel free to dumb things down for me.  

• Dec 14, 2009

• Dec 15, 2009

Here ya go <----- mine is all wired up apart from needing a decent +/- switch to fit into the Td5 centre dash console. i've also fitted a 1.2:1 box, so i'm wondering whether it'll work. Porny or Pete should be able to modify an ECU to alleviate the problem.  

diesel_jim said: Here ya go <----- mine is all wired up apart from needing a decent +/- switch to fit into the Td5 centre dash console. i've also fitted a 1.2:1 box, so i'm wondering whether it'll work. Porny or Pete should be able to modify an ECU to alleviate the problem. Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply. Is yours set up with three switches then?  

I was going to use a defender electric window switch, but it doesn't have the right connector changeovers inside, i even took a couple apart and re-jigged them, but no luck. I'll have a look at a freelander one and see if it'll do. as they switch an ECU for the window it might well work (defender ones operate the motor directly and thus just reverse the polarity on the contatcs)  

diesel_jim said: I was going to use a defender electric window switch, but it doesn't have the right connector changeovers inside, i even took a couple apart and re-jigged them, but no luck. I'll have a look at a freelander one and see if it'll do. as they switch an ECU for the window it might well work (defender ones operate the motor directly and thus just reverse the polarity on the contatcs) Click to expand...

• Dec 17, 2009

Thanks for all the info so far. I've managed to source some pins for the ECU from an old Metro at the scrappy (it has exactly the same black ECU plug as the defender) and some multicore cable. The problem is that I'm still baffled by which switches to use and how to wire them up. I've given up on using something that'll fit in the existing recesses in my dash and I'm now thinking about using two Carling switches: SPST On/Off & DPDT Momentary On/Off/On Would these be suitable?  

Yup, SPST to turn the criuse on/off. and the momentary on/off/on for "-/+" It doesn't need to be a double pole though, SPDT will do, use the middle pin for common and the two outer pins for - and +  

Cheers for that. I'll get them ordered. I'll probably be back asking for advice on how to wire them up later.  

• Jan 7, 2010

Right. I'm all set to rig up this cruise control (even though it is -9 degrees outside). I've fed all the cabling through and soldered pins onto 4 wires ready to hook up to pins 10, 15, 11 & 17 on the ecu. I've also spliced into the wire from pin 33 ready to connect it to the wire from pin 10. I've got my 2 carling switches, a standard "on/off" and a single pole "mom-off-mom", which I've so far connected up to the earth and live feed from my fog light switch so that they light up with the side lights. It's the next part where I'm a bit confused and would like your advice before I fry my ECU. The pin outs for the on/off switch are: Pin2 - Power in Pin3 - Power out Am I right in thinking I connect the wire from pin 10 on the ECU (which also has a feed from Pin33) to pin 2 of the switch and the wire from ECU pin15 to pin 3 of the switch? The mom-off-mom pin outs are: Pin1 - Power out1 Pin2 - Power in Pin3 - Power out2 Am I also right in thinking that I also connect the feed from Pin 10 (& 33) of the ECU to Pin2 on the switch, the wire from pin11 of the ECU to Pin1 on the switch and the wire from pin 17 of the ECu to pin3 on the switch? Hope this makes sense.  

• Jan 10, 2010

Well, I decided to go for it and set it up as I described above. And surprise surprise it doesn't work. I've tested it all with my circuit tester and I'm pretty sure its set up correctly, however I have discovered that there is no output at pin 35 on the ECU, which is apparently the clutch switch. I've also plugged in my Nanocom and that says the clutch switch is "off" whether the clutch is pressed or not. I've taken my 12v feed for the cruise control from pin 33, but is a dodgy clutch switch likely to be the reason that its not working?  

• Jan 13, 2010

Anyone any ideas?  

• Feb 5, 2010

Discovered that pin 35 was dodgy in the black ecu plug. I've replaced it and cruise control is now working perfectly. Pin 35 is fed by a negative current though, so it would be useless for powering the cruise control.  

• Feb 6, 2010

diesel jim, have you had your cruise control working yet? I have had no success with Porny or anybody else coming up with an ECU mod to allow mine to work with the overdrive.  

• May 11, 2020

I have a 2005 TD5 Defender and have installed the Nakatanenga cruise control kit. lt consists of two non-latching push buttons and a wiring harness with the pins already soldered on, for connecting to the ECU plug. l connected it all up and it works perfectly, the Defender is so much better on long motorway journeys. One button is the “set” and the other “resume” Pressing “resume” obviously results in acceleration to the preset speed. Holding the “resume” button down makes the vehicle accelerate until you stop pressing it. The cruise disengages if you touch the brake or clutch pedal. Bizarrely when you press the “resume” button it seems to be able to summon up faster acceleration than l can with the gas pedal !  

Definitely a worthwhile mod imho  

• Oct 8, 2021

For some reason Nakatenanga don't list their TD5 cruise control kit in the U.K. However if you contact a U.K. dealer in Nakatanenga products, they can get it for you at around £110 lt works on the 15p version of the TD5  

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• Conversion Kits
• Conversion Kits General Discussion

nvm moscow throttle

• Thread starter Widget2k13
• Start date May 3, 2020

Finding my (electric) wheels

hi everyone, im new to the forum and have come with a question about the ncm moscow, i have owned the bike for over a year now and seen that the moscow plus has a throttle fitted to it, does anyone know if its possible to fit one to the normal moscow and if so where to purchase what i need in the uk as i cannot find anything about it at all. thank you  

Esteemed Pedelecer

Show us a pic of the main controller and it's wring not the handle bar display.  

i will get some pictures tomorrow, i know its a sealed unit and one wire goes to the pedal crank and another goes away inside the frame  

hi, here is a pic of the control box, not sure if it helps, one wire goes to the motor, one to the pedal crank and the others go up to the battery area  

Attachments

All I see is a BB shell with two cables running under it.  

its a sealed unit fixed to the frame, there is no way of getting into it i dont think  

In that case then a throttle can't be retrofitted if there isn't an unused three wire connection.  

The Oxygen ST uses a similar frame which is likely a generic China/Taiwan frame utilised by other companies with different components and motor kits, the Oxygen is throttle capable.  

Widget2k13 said: hi everyone, im new to the forum and have come with a question about the ncm moscow, i have owned the bike for over a year now and seen that the moscow plus has a throttle fitted to it, does anyone know if its possible to fit one to the normal moscow and if so where to purchase what i need in the uk as i cannot find anything about it at all. thank you Click to expand...

Kommunikation zwischen C7 Display und Motorkontroller NCM Venice+ Das-Kit

An lcd won't enable you to fit a throttle, you need a controller with the wired out put for one as well as the PAS out put. One can't be used for the other.  

jokskot said: It is possible to fit a throttle by tapping into the cable linking the display and the controller fitted near the bottom bracket and I have done so . See post 8 in the attached link for circuit schematic & background info.: Kommunikation zwischen C7 Display und Motorkontroller NCM Venice+ Das-Kit Moin, ich habe bereits im dem 'anderen' pedelec und E bike Forum meine Untersuchung und Ergebnisse veröffentlicht, hoffe aber hier zusätzlich noch weitere interessierte Leute zu erreichen. Zunächst einmal ein Dank an Arthus Dent der schon vor über einem Jahr damit angefangen hat und auf dessen... www.pedelecforum.de Google translate will deal with the language if your German is not up to it! You need to put 5 v (from the purple and black wires across the throttle Hall sensor and attach the Hall sensor signal wire to the yellow line. If you have a voltage display on your throttle and it has the range up to at least 60 v, you could also tap into the red wire of the cable to display the battery voltage. Unfortunately all you achieve with this, is having the "walk" function (ie 8 or is it 6? kph) available via the throttle. It should be possible to increase the speed available by resetting the firmware but this is beyond my ability & competence! I have posted (under the same nom de plume as I use here) in the link given above but no usable feedback has been provided. If anyone reading this & can help with this, please post here or send me a pm. Click to expand...

Das-Kit e-Bike Conversion Kit, 48V 500W | Leon Cycle

At a price....!!!! Possibly the motor available in the US has more power, but I suspect the rest is just firmware tuning. You've probably noticed the flash screens you get on switching on, include one that says EU300 or something which I take to be an EU compliant firmware version.  

jokskot said: At a price....!!!! Possibly the motor available in the US has more power, but I suspect the rest is just firmware tuning. You've probably noticed the flash screens you get on switching on, include one that says EU300 or something which I take to be an EU compliant firmware version. Click to expand...

Kosh said: Yes on all counts ! Click to expand...

WheezyRider

Nealh said: An lcd won't enable you to fit a throttle, you need a controller with the wired out put for one as well as the PAS out put. One can't be used for the other. Click to expand...

Kosh said: Hello just out of interest , i bought a Moscow at the end of May and was also looking into fitting a throttle , looks like the answer is no, not without changing the Lcd unit (as far as i can make out) there seems to be no info out there (did find something in German) and any questions to Leon cycle's go unanswered, i got the bike ok (tracking did not work) but am hoping i dont get any problems as i dont think Leon are going to be any help ... awful customer service ! very happy with bike though ... done couple of hundred miles to date (mainly cycle tracks) let me know if you find out anything more re throttle .... thanks Click to expand...

WheezyRider said: Have you been able to get into the setup mode with the DAS KIT LCD? Codes I've seen are 8088 and 8018, depending on the unit. Then you can set the wheel diameter properly. Leon Cycles will not tell you this, I only found it on the web. Click to expand...

jokskot said: I’d be interested to know where you can get the correct 8 pin Julet connector from in China. I was unable to locate one in China, but did find a good supplier in Germany. However fitting a different display is likely to cast £50+ & may not solve the problem of speed available via the throttle. I was luckier than you with Leon and they provided a few pass codes to try. 8018 worked for me, accessed after pressing the + & - keys together for a few seconds. Difficult to describe but pretty intuitive! This allows changing the voltage (if you really want), the wheel diameter and power which essentially limits the current supply. I have found little different between the “turbo” & normal, but “eco” limited the current indicated to 5 bars rather than 6 and made hill-climbing more demanding on the rider. If you change anything remember to press the + & - buttons together to save the changes and return to the standard screen. Has anyone got experience of flashing firmware on microprocessors and could offer me guidance? ( see earlier posts in this thread and posts elsewhere on this site by me) Click to expand...

Electric Bicycle E-bike Waterproof Cable Connector For E-brake Display Throttle | eBay

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Cruise control on an outboard finally.

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