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11th September 2019

Canal cruising on the River Wey Navigation

Turn off the popular River Thames at Weybridge for a peaceful journey on the River Wey through quiet Surrey countryside to reach the southernmost point on the waterway network

10 of the best pubs on the River Wey Navigation

The River Wey Navigation is one of our earlier waterways, built during a turbulent time in English history following the Civil War. King Charles II was in hiding and the country was ruled by Cromwell’s Protectorate Parliament.

The navigation was planned by local landowner Sir Richard Weston, who died in 1654 before it was opened. The 15-mile waterway, which connected Guildford to the River Thames at Weybridge, passed through twelve locks and involved digging about ten miles of artificial channel. A four-mile extension, called the Godalming Navigation, was added in 1764. Further connections were added when the Basingstoke Canal (1796) and the Wey & Arun Canal (1816) opened, both with junctions with the Wey navigations.

The waterway was prosperous for many years, carrying agricultural produce, flour, paper, timber and gunpowder. Distinctive ‘Wey barges’ capable of carrying 80 tonnes were built at Dapdune Wharf in Guildford by William Stevens & Sons, who later owned the navigation.

In the 1960s Harry Stevens, son of the earlier owner, passed on the ownership of the Wey Navigation and the Godalming Navigaton to the National Trust. The last regular commercial traffic was still taking grain to Coxes Mill but this ended in 1969 (although it was briefly revived some years later), and today the river navigation is used for pleasure boating.

The river is not dramatic in terms of structures or surroundings as there are no aqueducts, tunnels or long flights of locks. But other than at Guildford where the navigation passes through the centre of town, it follows a peaceful rural course through the Surrey countryside.

The entrance to the Wey is via a well signposted maze of Thames backwaters below Shepperton Lock. A single extra gate, which enables boats to pass into the navigation when the Thames water level is low or they are deep-draught craft, leads to Thames Lock. A cruising licence can be obtained here from the National Trust, who have an information display in an old stable block.

After Thames Lock, you’ll find yourself cruising through the affluent town of Weybridge where you could shop in the town centre near the Town Lock. But then the town is left behind and the waterway reaches Coxes Lock and the adjacent mill, which was built in 1776 as an iron mill but became a corn mill in the 1830s. It continued working as a corn mill until 1982 after which it was converted into housing.

Not long afterwards you’ll reach New Haw Lock which has a waterside pub and restaurant. A long straight section with offside moorings leads to Woodham Junction where the Basingstoke Canal begins its 30 mile journey beneath the noisy elevated M25 motorway. But soon the sounds of the motorway are left behind as the waterway enters a lovely wooded section leading to Pyrford Marina and the popular Anchor Inn. A footpath from Pyrford Lock eventually reaches the Royal Horticultural Society’s Wisley Gardens. It’s a two-mile walk but worth it especially since Wisley’s recent £70m upgrade.

From Pyrford a pleasant wooded sections leads to Walsham Flood Gates, a lock which stays open at both ends except in times of flood. Afterwards the waterway progresses through wooded countryside to the attractively situated Newark Lock. The flint ruins of Newark Priory can be seen on the natural river channel opposite Newark Lock. The priory was founded in the 12th century by Augustinian monks, but the ruins stand on private property and are not open to the public.

Next comes Papercourt Lock with its stepped weir in a very attractive setting. The waterway continues on its pleasant wooded course to Cartbridge where there is a pub and Send village is just a short walk away. The navigation’s workshops are next to Worsfold Gates, another flood lock.

Triggs Lock has an attractive cottage surrounded by woodland and open fields. Until you look at a map it is difficult to believe that the towns of Woking and Guildford are so close by. The navigation continues along a winding course around Sutton Place with two sharp turns at Broad Oak Bridge and Bowers Lock. Sutton Place is a Tudor manor house which was once the home of Sir Richard Weston, who originally visualised the Wey navigation.

The outskirts of Guildford are becoming more apparent as woodland begins to give way to urban development. Stoke Lock marks the entry into the town, with houses and gardens stretching down to the waterside. There is a riverside park near Stoke Lock followed by another at Woodbridge Meadows.

Then comes Dapdune Wharf, former home of the Wey barges that once carried cargoes from Guildford to London’s docks. The wharf now features a visitor centre run by the National Trust (see inset) telling the story of the river. You can also take a relaxed passenger boat trip from here and enjoy Guildford’s riverside views.

Guildford Cathedral, set in 20 acres of parkland, can be seen on a hilltop close to Dapdune Wharf. In 1830 William Cobbett described Guildford as “a most agreeable and happy looking town” in his Rural Rides. There is a bit more traffic around today but nevertheless Guildford is worth an extended visit with plenty of places to see and visit.

A tribute to author Lewis Carroll (who lived and died in Guildford) can be seen in the riverside gardens at Millmead. It is a bronze statue of Alice with her sister depicting the opening scene of Alice in Wonderland. Visit the Yvonne Arnaud Theatre which has a riverside restaurant. Debenham’s also have a restaurant where you can sit, eat and watch the boats pass by, but the store is under threat of closure in 2020.

Guildford Castle was built in the early 11th century and became the royal residence of Henry III until his death in 1272. It was purchased by the Guildford Council in 1885. Today it has a visitor centre and beautiful gardens. The castle can be reached from Millmead Lock. There are great views of the town from the top of the Great Tower.

After Millmead Lock you will begin to leave the town with fine views of St Catherine’s Chapel high on a wooded hillside. The chapel was built in the 14th century and was the subject of a painting by J.M.W.Turner in 1830. A footbridge marks the former crossing point of St Catherine’s Ferry, which was once part of the Pilgrims Way.

At Shalford the entrance to the former Wey & Arun Canal branches off. This area is known as Gun’s Mouth Junction because of former gunpowder wharves. Cargoes of gunpowder were taken by barge from Chilworth Powder Mills to Woolwich Arsenal and Purfleet until the mills closed in 1920. The canal was built in 1816 and is often called ‘London’s lost route to the sea’ (also the name of a well-known book detailing its history) as it formed a through route to the Arun which came out at Littlehampton on the south coast. It closed in 1871 and fell derelict, but thanks to the efforts of the Wey & Arun Canal Trust over many years, it is gradually being restored, and several sections have been completed.

The final two miles between the Wey & Arun Canal’s junction and Godalming passes through idyllic cruising countryside with wooded hills forming a lovely backdrop to the gentle winding waterway. Catteshall Lock, situated about a half mile from the wharf, has the distinction of being the most southerly lock on the linked waterway system (until the Wey & Arun Canal is reopened, that is!) It stands next to Farncombe Boat House where boats can be hired weekly or by the day.

Godalming Wharf is the most southerly point on the connected network. The town has been an important trading place since the Middle Ages, as it is approximately half way between London and Portsmouth. The arrival of the navigation in 1764, with its water link to London, only added to the town’s importance. Today, the only original surviving building at Godalming Wharf is a barn that was built in 1768. The wharf once had ten acres of warehouses – a huge area, but now considerably reduced by supermarkets and car parks. Commercial traffic ended in 1925 and now a horse-drawn trip boat operates from here in the summer months. Take your time at Godalming before turning for a pleasant return journey back to the River Thames.

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Derek Pratt

by Canal Boat

Packed with important information and fascinating facts, Canal Boat was launched in 1996 to reflect the nation’s affection for narrowboats and our canal network, making it a must for everyone who enjoys the waterways. With insights from our liveaboard diaries, expert boat reviews and news coverage plus cruise guides and invaluable technical advice, Canal Boat’s busy itinerary equips readers for their next adventure.

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Waterways > River Wey and Godalming Navigations

River Wey and Godalming Navigations

The Wey Navigation runs from the junction with the River Thames at Shepperton to Guildford, where it is joined by the Godalming Navigation, that runs to a terminus at Godalming.

Map showing the River Wey and Godalming Navigations and surrounding waterways

Facts & stats.

The length of the River Wey that is navigable. The Godalming navigation is 4.2 miles (6.8 km).

On the River Wey

There are also 4 locks on the Godalming navigation.

Year opened

An act of Parliament opened the River Wey to Guildford.

From the River Thames to Godalming

Between 1618 and 1620, Sir Richard Weston carried out the first improvements to the River Wey on his own land. An Act of Parliament in 1651 opened the navigable River Wey to Guildford. This was extended to Godalming in 1760 and, in 1796, the Basingstoke Canal brought extra traffic. Yet, despite the completion of the Wey and Arun Canal in 1816, trade was poor and the Wey became neglected.  

In 1912, the river was purchased by William Stevens and in 1964 his son gave it to the National Trust.

Waterway notes

Maximum boat sizes.

• Length: 73′ 6″ (22.4 metres)
• Beam: 13′ 10″ (4.2 metres)
• Height: 6′ 0″ (1.8 metres) – Godalming Navigation
• Draught: 3′ 0″ (0.9 metres)

Navigation authority

The National Trust

• IWA Guildford & Reading Branch

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Great Canal Journeys: how a bittersweet boating show captured viewers' hearts

The swansong of Timothy West and Prunella Scales’s narrowboat adventures aired this week, having elevated the humble travelogue to a touching saga of love and loss

‘M y name’s Timothy West, and this is my wife, Prunella Scales.” Much of the tender magic of Great Canal Journeys is in that proud, robustly jolly, semi-formal introduction, habitually included in the narration as one venerated actor refers to his beloved other. The Channel 4 show – the probable last episode of which was broadcast last night – is one of many travel series that amount to watching celebrities go on holiday, but it’s one of the few that truly feels as if it’s inviting us to come along too.

West and Scales have no need to feign canal enthusiasm for the cameras. In their show’s best episodes, they revisit their own, real narrowboating holidays, re-enacting scenes from a romance that’s endured for more than half a century. A simple thing that sets them apart is that they’re a lot older than almost anyone else on British television. What has made this series such a gift is their willingness to share the emotion of navigating that last phase of life together, a bittersweetness made all the more powerful by Scales’s Alzheimer’s disease. West is the boat’s skipper, cajoling and comforting and forever worrying about the welfare of his mate.

The success of the series has demanded that Tim and Pru venture overseas, as near as France and as far as India. Their foreign jaunts were fine, but this new trip put them back where they look most comfortable, in the veins of green England . Going up the familiar Oxford Canal from Banbury in Oxfordshire to Braunston in Northamptonshire offered a chance to relax, enjoy choice excerpts from previous seasons, and update us on the topic discussed whenever we and they reconvene: how Pru’s doing. The news was not good.

Since the first instalment in 2014, the series has charted the long, slow goodbye that is living with dementia, cherishing every moment of precious normality and celebrating how an immersion in nature is the surest way to bring the old Pru back. But that task of loving a person whose powers are fading only ever gets harder. Now we heard not only that Pru’s mental decline was accelerating, but that deafness was also encroaching.

The show’s editors have been masters of holding the shot for an extra second after Tim has finished speaking, long enough for us to discern pain clouding the full-hearted, wrinkly eyed smile that takes over his face when he talks about how happy Pru makes him. As Tim explained that Pru’s hearing loss was denying him the pleasure of ordinary conversation – the quick exchange of ideas and feelings with his best friend, treasured every day since 1963 – we saw more sadness than smile.

This episode was broadcast on West’s 85th birthday and possessed an air of soft valediction throughout. In the ancient St Peter’s Church at Wormleighton, Warwickshire, the vicar boldly asked for clarification of what the rest of the programme was only hinting at: was this the couple’s last ever Great Canal Journey? Tim looked at Pru and thought about the bustling community of hobbyists and holidaymakers on Britain’s manmade waterways . “They can carry on without us. I just wonder if we can carry on without them.”

So a saga that has been – quietly, let’s not make a fuss about it – one of the greatest love stories on TV seems to be over. There’s another new episode next week, but it’s even more heavily based on old clips, with the linking scenes showing Tim taking care of Pru at home rather than judging tight turns and ratcheting locks.

This was the swansong, and in the loveliest of many lovely moments, Fairport Convention came on board at Cropredy to perform the exquisitely appropriate Who Knows Where the Time Goes? “Who knows how my love grows? And who knows where the time goes?” Oh, for a little more time. But what times we’ve had.

• Timothy West
• Boating holidays
• Alzheimer's
• Relationships
• Mental health

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Timothy West, Prunella Scales, Sheila Hancock and Gyles Brandreth embark on spectacular canal journeys across Britain and abroad

Sheila and Gyles boat the beautiful Peak Forest Canal to Manchester, where they have a go at dry stone walling and discover the hatting history of Denton

Series 13 Episode 4: Peak Forest Canal

Sheila and Gyles boat the beautiful Peak Forest Canal and have a go at dry stone walling

Series 13 Episode 3: Grand Union and Stratford Canal

Sheila and Gyles learn about brewing ale and brave the 500-foot-long Edstone Aqueduct

Series 13 Episode 2: West Lancashire Coastal Plain

Gyles takes on the world pie-eating champion in Wigan. Then all canals lead to Liverpool.

Series 13 Episode 1: Cambridgeshire Fens

Sheila and Gyles explore the Cambridgeshire Fens and make a pilgrimage to Ely Cathedral

Best of Wales and the West Country

A look back at Tim and Pru's adventures on the waterways of Wales and the West Country

Best of Scandinavia

A look back at Timothy West and Prunella Scales' 350-mile journey across Sweden by boat

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Tim and Pru look back over their many great adventures along northern England's canals

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Tim and Pru look back at one of their favourite locations

Global Adventures

Tim and Pru share a stash of memories of their canal journeys overseas

The British Isles

Tim and Pru go on a voyage through the beautiful Cherwell Valley

Series 10 Episode 2: Asian Odyssey (Part Two)

Timothy and Pru complete their tour of South East Asian waterways on the Mekong Delta

Series 10 Episode 1: Asian Odyssey (Part One)

The 'ancient mariners' travel the waterways of Vietnam - from Halong Bay to Hanoi

Series 9 Episode 6: Rideau Canal, Canada

Tim and Pru embark on an epic journey along Canada's Rideau Canal

Series 9 Episode 5: Lancaster Canal

Tim and Pru navigate the Lancaster Canal, an early masterpiece of the waterways

Series 9 Episode 4: Argentina

Tim and Pru take a boat ride in the Argentine jungle

Series 9 Episode 3: Manchester

Tim and Pru explore the waterways of north west England, from Manchester to Ellesmere

Series 9 Episode 2: North Italy

Tim and Pru cross Italy's largest lake and travel down Europe's oldest working canal

Series 9 Episode 1: The River Nile

Tim and Pru explore one of the world's great waterways

Series 2 Episode 4: Forth and Clyde and Union Canals

Timothy and Pru travel through the stunning scenery of central Scotland

Series 2 Episode 3: Canal du Midi

Timothy and Pru explore the picturesque Canal du Midi in the south of France

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On the wey narrowboat hire

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Episode list

Great canal journeys.

S9.E1 ∙ The River Nile

S9.E2 ∙ North Italy

S9.E3 ∙ Manchester

S9.E4 ∙ Argentina

S9.E5 ∙ Lancaster Canal

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Our Great Canal Journeys: A Lifetime of Memories on Britain's Most Beautiful Waterways Hardcover – February 1, 2018

• Print length 288 pages
• Language English
• Publisher John Blake
• Publication date February 1, 2018
• Dimensions 7.5 x 0.8 x 9.5 inches
• ISBN-10 1786065118
• ISBN-13 978-1786065117
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• Publisher ‏ : ‎ John Blake (February 1, 2018)
• Language ‏ : ‎ English
• Hardcover ‏ : ‎ 288 pages
• ISBN-10 ‏ : ‎ 1786065118
• ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-1786065117
• Item Weight ‏ : ‎ 2.15 pounds
• Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 7.5 x 0.8 x 9.5 inches
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