jeddah balad tour

The winding streets of Al Balad are a walk down memory lane and a gateway to the unique cultural legacy of Saudi Arabia that has withstood the test of time. The spirit of this town was recognized in 2014 when it was classified as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. You will find your heart anchored in a live portrait of the past. The buildings adorned with wooden lattice windows that once witnessed the hustle-bustle of the early trading days of Jeddah, warmly welcome new faces from around the globe.

Being the multicultural beating heart of Jeddah, Al Balad offers an exquisite pairing of authentic and contemporary flavors that will bring you back for more!

The dusty streets, coral stone buildings and vibrant stores of Al Balad are telling a story, calling out to be unfolded through all your senses.

With more than 400 ancient homes that maintain the unique Hijazi culture and architecture, the small region serves as a time capsule for locals and visitors alike.

Al Balad Art Scene

Encompassing the traditional Arabian art forms and introducing fresh talents–the artistic landscape of Al Balad is expanding! Witness the growing ambition of artisans to preserve and highlight the unique cultural heritage of Al Balad through exhibitions, workshops and more.

shop like a local

Bustling with street vendors, the Souqs of Al Balad are reminiscent of early Arabia. From fabrics and jewels to spices and souvenirs, the brightly colored stores land visitors and locals the best bargains to this day.

Visitor center

Al Balad, with its rich religious history, bold colors, thought-provoking art and delectable flavors, invites you to join the family and become a part of the tale to be told by generations. Wondering where to start? The Visitor Center will provide all the help you need. Open from 8am till 11pm you can find friendly tour guides, helpful maps and brochures to get directions and more. Get an immersive overview of the Al Balad!

Guide To Al Balad Jeddah! Things To Do, How To Visit, Photo Locations!

Categories Middle East , Saudi Arabia

For one of the best places to visit in Jeddah , you must visit the Al Balad neighbourhood in historic Jeddah, also known as Old Jeddah.

In this Jeddah travel blog, I’m going to tell you the best things to do in Al Balad Jeddah , Al Balad opening times, Al Balad directions, places to visit in Al Balad , the best photo locations in Al Balad, when to visit Al Balad and good cafes in Al Balad to visit so you will be set to see one of the top things to do in Jeddah! Yalla!

Al Balad Jeddah

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Al Balad History

‘Balad’ means ‘ The Town ’ and Al Balad in Jeddah used to be the centre of Jeddah thanks to its close proximity to Jeddah Port. This historic part of Jeddah was founded in the 7th century . It used to be an area that Saudi’s lived in but as the city of Jeddah, Saudi Arabia got wealthier, thanks to the oil boom in the 1970s & 1980’s, Saudi’s moved out of the area and immigrants moved in making it a poorer neighbourhood.

So what makes Al Balad a popular tourist attraction in Jeddah?

It’s Architecture ! Al Balad neighbourhood is made up of buildings that are 500 years old and their designs are certainly unique and old.

In 2014 Al Balad became a UNESCO heritage site and it’s said that the Crown Prince has pledged $13.33 million to restore many of the buildings to help increase the artistic culture in Saudi Arabia, and no doubt attract more foreign tourists now Saudi has opened for tourism!

Related Post: Are you visiting Madinah after Jeddah? If so, read my post on how to get from Jeddah to Madinah via bus, train & flight !

Best Time To Visit Al Balad

The Al Balad opening hours are something you need to know before visiting, technically the neighbourhood is open all day and all night, but as a visitor, there are good times and bad times to visit.

In the morning a few of the shops are open, however, they close during the middle of the day and the area becomes very quiet.

At sunset and after the first evening prayer, the shops start to open and many more people appear, therefore this is the best time to visit Al Balad in Jeddah and this makes for one of the best things to do in Jeddah at night if you want to shop in the Al Balad market, visit the museums in Al Balad and walk around seeing life here.

With that said, if you are visiting Al Balad for photography and looking for the best places to take photos in Al Balad Jeddah, I suggest you visit during the hours the neighbourhood is closed (early morning and during the day before 5 pm) as you will have fewer people in the back of your photos and the photos look better with the shop facades closed rather than open, in my opinion.

You can see the difference in the photos here from when I went at 4:00 pm on a Saturday to 6:00 pm on Sunday.

Note that during the 2 evening prayers the shops and cafes will shut again.

Best Way To See Al Balad

Unfortunately, as it stands, there are no walking tours in Al Balad or any options of an  Old Jeddah tour . Inshallah in the future there will be and I will keep this post updated!

There are many entrances to the neighbourhood and if you’re taking an Uber, be sure not to enter ‘ Al Balad ’ into the location as it is a fairly big area, so here are my recommended  Al Balad Jeddah directions .

Personally, I would recommend starting your visit to Al Balad at ‘Bab Jadid’  which used to be one of the gates into the neighbourhood, this Bab is just off the main road, it’s a location on Google Maps and Uber, and by starting here you are close to this historic centre of Jeddah!

From here you can walk around as you please and you can follow the locations I provide below on what to see in Al Balad Jeddah and use the Al Balad cafes I recommend at the end of the post to walk towards to give you Al Balad directions rather than walking aimlessly.

If you are visiting Al Balad as a solo female I suggest you visit at a busier time as I did feel more comfortable there later on even though it was getting dark because more people were walking around, rather than in the afternoon when it was very quiet and just the locals were around.

• Related Posts:
• What To Wear in Saudi Arabia As a Foreign Woman!
• 16 Things To Do in Riyadh as a Tourist, but like a Local
• Buying a SIM card at Jeddah Airport as a tourist

Best Places To Visit in Al Balad

If you’re like me then you will want to go to the houses in Al Balad that are ‘Instagram friendly’ and you’ll want to know where to take the best photos in Al Balad.

I won’t lie, it is hard to tell you where these are because Al Balad maps have very limited information on them including street names. I usually use maps.me but it’s not very helpful in Saudi Arabia so I would recommend using Google Maps .

Here are the best houses I found in Al Balad and my best description of how to get to them:

This is taken around the corner from the back of Al Shafi Mosque in Al Balad:

Discover the historic landmarks like Al Tayebat Museum, Al Shafi Mosque, and the Jeddah Corniche neighborhood on this city tour.

This is taken on Baleelah Lane:

Look for the best flights to Jeddah here!

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Things To Do in Al Balad

In addition to taking photos of the houses in Al Balad, for more things to do in Al Balad you can visit the Al Balad Museums.

Museums in Al Balad

• Nassif House Museum
• Bait Al Balad
• Matbouli House Museum
• The Salloum Residence

However, be aware that they seem to open when they please. 2 of the museums I tried to visit were not open when I was there, even though Google said they were.

These photos are from The Salloum Residence which costs just 10SAR to walk around and see what a house in this area used to look like:

Shopping in Al Balad

Shopping is another popular thing to do in Al Balad and Al Balad Souk Jeddah is where you can get souvenirs. You can get jewellery from the  Al Balad Gold Market as well as shopping in Al Balad Mall too.

Jeddah Season Al Balad

Also, be sure to check out Jeddah Season , it does not run all year round but if you are visiting Jeddah in the winter which is the best time of year to visit Jeddah , Jeddah Season should be on and in the past, they have held an event in Al Balad.

Cafes in Al Balad

I think the best way to enjoy Al Balad is to cafe hop as you will get to see all of the streets and houses in Al Balad this way and have a purpose to your visit to Al Balad.

This cafe can be found easily on Google Maps, it has outside seating and inside with old but nice decor. They serve a range of drinks, cakes and pastries.

https://goo.gl/maps/JayzHq7STrWwohc68

اهل البلد كافيه

This cafe has an Arabic name only but it is just around the corner from Cafe Magad with seating inside and a few seats outside.

https://goo.gl/maps/nyH5xgeqPdeQZcoD9

Layalena / ليالي تاريخية مقهى تراثي

This is a really nice cafe with an open rooftop and lots of old pieces of furniture. It’s true Middle Eastern Dreams! And opposite it is The Salloum Residence which I mention above.

https://goo.gl/maps/8DaM6nTQKyVDhpaq9

Have you booked your flight to Jeddah yet??

I use Skyscanner to book all of my flights! I’m a huge fan of Skyscanner because I love how easy it is to compare different dates and routes to help me find the best flight at the best price!  Open Skyscanner by clicking here and search for the best flights as you read this post.

Visiting Al Balad as a Female

If you are visiting Al Balad as a solo female, or even as a group of women, I suggest you visit at a busier time like later in the day or in the early morning when the shops are open  and its more likely to see other tourists about as I did feel more comfortable there later on even though it was getting dark because more people were walking around, rather than in the afternoon when it was very quiet and just the locals were around.

I visited Al Balad twice, once with a male friend and once on my own and I definitely felt more uncomfortable there on my own and I heard from a fellow female traveller that she went with a female friend and together they felt quite uncomfortable too.

I wore my Abaya to Al Balad and I’m very glad I did as it completely covered me and made me feel a bit more comfortable and less ‘on show’.

Related Post:  What To Wear in Saudi Arabia As a Foreign Woman!

There you have it, my complete guide to Al Balad Jeddah. Most of all, enjoy the area by walking around as much as you can and seeing what hidden gems you can find for yourself.

• For more of my blog posts on Saudi Arabia see:
• How to Get from Jeddah to Madinah via Bus, Train & Flight.
• Visiting Medina as a Non-Muslim.
• My Riyadh Travel & City Guide!
• How To Get a Sim Card in Riyadh Airport!
• ALL MY SAUDI ARABIA BLOG POSTS

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Monday 6th of February 2023

Really good, useful article. Just got to Jeddah and it should get me off to a good start. Thanks

Annie Berger

Friday 21st of February 2020

Great timing with this post as my husband and I are heading to Saudi Arabia and other places in the Middle East for three weeks in lieu of Tibet and China on our upcoming four month trip to Asia. We'd already planned to see Jeddah's UNESCO-listed Old Town of Al Balad so it was lovely seeing your photos and suggestions of what to do there.

We're starting our trip in Sri Lanka on March 3rd and then also going to Kerala region in India before heading to Bhutan, then the Middle East including Lebanon, before going back to resume our Asia trip in the Philippines, Brunei, Taiwan and Japan. Since you've written about many of those countries, your posts have been an invaluable addition to our trip planning.

Thanks for your great tips!

Al Balad Old Town Tour from Jeddah

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• Important Details

Really get under the skin of Al Balad with our Al Balad Old Town Tour from Jeddah . Meet your local guide and a small group of like-minded travelers as you head through the narrow winding streets of this UNESCO World Heritage site. See the old buildings, some made from seashells and stones, and head inside one to see what life used to be like, living in this old part of Al Balad. Head towards some of the best street vendors in town to sample local food and drinks. See some of the best craftspeople in the area, collecting souvenirs as you go. Finally, enjoy dinner in a local restaurant where you’ll get to try even more local delicacies.

Get the best out of your time in Saudi Arabia with our Al Balad Old Town Tour from Jeddah . We handpick our guides based on their knowledge and experience to ensure you are in the very best of hands as you head around this fascinating UNESCO world heritage site. We also keep our group sizes small to make sure your experience is as personalized as possible. We love the mix of food, culture, and history in this particular experience, it’s a perfect way to get more well acquainted with the daily life of the locals here. Our Al Balad Old Town Private Tour leaves every day.

Al Balad Old Town Tour from Jeddah Highlights

• Visit the UNESCO world heritage site of Al Balad, marveling at the unique buildings
• Visit the interior of one of these buildings, seeing how life used to be like
• Sample some of the best street food in the area, from a local drink made from bread to a bean and pickle dish
• Enjoy dinner at a local restaurant where you can try even more local dishes!

Al Balad Old Town Tour from Jeddah Itinerary

• Meet your local guide at the Makkah Gate in Jeddah
• Meet your friendly local guide for a tour of 7th century Al Balad! You'll start in the center of the UNESCO world heritage site, where the old buildings with their unique window and door designs have been perfectly preserved. Marvel at buildings built using seashells and stones that once housed the famous Jeddah families.
• Head inside to one of these buildings to see the fantastic interior design and learn more about what life was like living there.
• Wander around the narrow streets learning about how merchants used to sell their goods and pilgrims would get their supplies of cloth and food before they head to Makkah through the Makkah Gate in Al Balad.
• Head towards the old Mosque, founded over 300 years ago.
• Pass by some famous food and drink vendors, known to offer the best local snacks in the area. Ty the famous local drink made or bread - Sobia - and try delicacies from the old bakery which it's famous for its fresh bread.
• Try another local snack that consists of beans and pickles called Balilah.
• Stop for rest in one of the local coffee open-air places and try famous local tea mixed with milk and herbs
• Move towards the center of Al Balad to see the first hotel built in Jeddah influenced by Italian architecture then pass by the first school built in Saudi. We will also visit one of the art houses, offering its unique local art collection and antiques.
• Pass by many shops that offer everything from perfume and jewelry to antiques and souvenirs. We will also introduce you to some local shops to see some crafts being made such as the local sandals, perfumes, and gold jewelry.
• Finish your tour at one of the local restaurants for dinner and try the famous local dishes such as Kabab, fish, or liver with bread.
• You will be dropped off at the same location you were picked up from.

If you have any questions about our Al Balad Old Town Tour from Jeddah, please contact us. Our team is standing by and will be happy to help

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Experience Saudi lifestyle in Jeddah's Al Balad

• Day 1 - 08:00 : Pick-up Gather at the meeting point from where you will be picked up to discover the charm of Historic Jeddah. - 09:00 : Walk around Al Balad Take a leisurely stroll as you enjoy a visit to the popular Beit Saloum museum, Baashen House, and Matbouli House, where you can admire the unique traditional interior before passing by Nasseef House. - 10:00 : Get dressed Head over to our partner's office in Al Balad to have a makeup artist spruce you up with some traditional makeup and try on Saudi wear such as Abaya or Thobe, with a Hijazi touch that is unique to the region and take plenty of pictures in front of the iconic houses. You can purchase the clothes for an extra charge and take them back with you after the tour. - 11:30 : Matbouli House visit Head to Matbouli House, a traditional building that was eventually turned into a museum and captures the design and spirit of old Arabia. - 12:30 : Gabel Street tour Pass by Nasseef House, before arriving at the gold market on Gabel Street and check out interesting jewellery and other local products such as oud, perfumes, spices and other exotic curios. Explore some of the food trucks and enjoy local dishes and fast food at your own expense before calling it a day. - 14:00 : End of tour The tour has now come to an end, enjoy the rest of the day at leisure. You will be dropped off at the meeting point.

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• Hotel pick-up & drop-off
• Personal expenses

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Explore Old Jeddah, Al Balad

Description.

Founded in the early 7th century, Al Balad served as Jeddah’s commercial center before the 1970s oil boom. It served as an ancient trading port and was the primary gateway to the Holy City of Makkah for pilgrims making their blessed journey for Hajj and Ummrah. Today, the town is famous for its ancient architecture and traditional buildings that were constructed using coral stone and decorated with beautiful wooden lattice windows.

Architecture

What sets Old Jeddah apart is its narrow alleyways, dusty streets, and beautiful terraces which can be quite difficult to navigate through for a newcomer. Interestingly, this tight architecture is what keeps the place cool despite the scorching heat of Jeddah. Some of the old buildings in Al Balad are more than 500 years old and have been preserved by the Saudi Ministry of Culture to make them look as good as new. 

Major Attractions

One of the most popular tourist spots is Baab Makkah (Mecca), which is the gateway to the city of Makkah. Al Balad also houses a culturally significant center called the Nassif House Museum which dates back to the 19th century. Other major attractions include Baeshen House and the Village Majlis.

Furthermore, a common reason for the locals to visit the old city is shopping. Al Balad is a great place for shopaholics to find good bargains and incredible souvenirs. The alleyways of Old Jeddah are lined with shops, where you can find everything from clothes and shoes to jewelry and antiques.

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Al Balad Old Town Private Tour from Jeddah

Availability

Important details, al balad old town private tour from jeddah highlights, why we chose this tour.

Get the best out of your time in Saudi Arabia with our Al Balad Old Town Private Tour from Jeddah. We handpick our guides based on their knowledge and experience to ensure you are in the very best of hands as you head around this fascinating UNESCO world heritage site. We also keep our group sizes small to make sure your experience is as personalized as possible. We love the mix of food, culture, and history in this particular experience, it’s a perfect way to get more well acquainted with the daily life of the locals here.

• We hand-pick each tour and experience which we offer
• Led by a true local expert full of passion
• Hassle-free experience promise. We take care of everything so you just have to enjoy
• Great memories and the best stories guaranteed
• Easy booking, easy cancelation and best price guaranteed

Al Balad Old Town Private Tour from Jeddah Itinerary

16:00 - pickup from jeddah.

• Meet your local guide at the Makkah Gate in Jeddah

Guided Tour of Al Balad Old Town

• Meet your friendly local guide for a tour of 7th century Al Balad! You'll start in the center of the UNESCO world heritage site, where the old buildings with their unique window and door designs have been perfectly preserved. Marvel at buildings built using seashells and stones that once housed the famous Jeddah families.
• Head inside to one of these buildings to see the fantastic interior design and learn more about what life was like living there.
• Wander around the narrow streets learning about how merchants used to sell their goods and pilgrims would get their supplies of cloth and food before they head to Makkah through the Makkah Gate in Al Balad.
• Head towards the old Mosque, founded over 300 years ago.
• Pass by some famous food and drink vendors, known to offer the best local snacks in the area. Ty the famous local drink made or bread - Sobia - and try delicacies from the old bakery which it's famous for its fresh bread.
• Try another local snack that consists of beans and pickles called Balilah.
• Stop for rest in one of the local coffee open-air places and try famous local tea mixed with milk and herbs
• Move towards the center of Al Balad to see the first hotel built in Jeddah influenced by Italian architecture then pass by the first school built in Saudi. We will also visit one of the art houses, offering its unique local art collection and antiques.
• Pass by many shops that offer everything from perfume and jewelry to antiques and souvenirs. We will also introduce you to some local shops to see some crafts being made such as the local sandals, perfumes, and gold jewelry.
• Finish your tour at one of the local restaurants for dinner and try the famous local dishes such as Kabab, fish, or liver with bread.

20:00 - Drop off at Jeddah

• You will be dropped off at the same location you were picked up from.

If you have any questions about our Al Balad Old Town Private Tour from Jeddah, please contact us. Our team is standing by and will be happy to help

Book Al Balad Old Town Private Tour from Jeddah as a private tour, and customize the itinerary and locations for yourself, your family or a small group.

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In the heart of Jeddah, Saudi Arabia, lies Al-Balad, a district that whispers tales of centuries past and serves as a vibrant testament to the city’s cultural legacy. This historic quarter, with its narrow labyrinthine streets, ancient coral-stone architecture, and intricately carved wooden facades, stands as a living museum, preserving the essence of Jeddah’s rich heritage.

Wandering through the alleys of Al-Balad is like stepping into a time capsule, where traditional homes exude an old-world charm, each telling a unique story of the families who once inhabited them. The district’s architecture is a testament to the craftsmanship of yesteryears, with geometric patterns and detailed motifs adorning the buildings, creating a captivating visual spectacle.

The soul of Al-Balad resides in its bustling souks and markets, where the air is thick with the aroma of exotic spices and the vibrant colors of local produce and handmade crafts dance before your eyes. From the lively fish market to the age-old perfume shops, each corner of Al-Balad offers a sensory journey, immersing visitors in the authentic sounds, scents, and flavors of Saudi Arabian culture.

At the heart of Al-Balad lies the iconic Al-Mazloom House, a cultural center that serves as a window into the district’s history. This meticulously restored building showcases the evolution of Jeddah through the ages, allowing visitors to connect with the past and appreciate the efforts to preserve the city’s architectural and cultural identity.

As we explore the nooks and crannies of Al-Balad, this blog aims to unravel the layers of history embedded in its ancient stones. It delves into the unique fusion of tradition and modernity that characterizes this district, capturing the essence of a place where time seems to stand still, and the spirit of the past continues to shape the present. Join us on a journey through Al-Balad, where the past comes alive, and every step is a celebration of Jeddah’s living heritage.

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Tourists have been visiting Saudi Arabia and Saudi Arabians have a well-earned reputation for warmth and kindness toward visitors. Saudi Arabia cities are generally very safe, especially in areas where tourists frequent.

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Applying for a  tourist visa  to  Saudi  Arabia is easy. If you are from one of the 49 eligible countries, you can  apply  through the eVisa website. Holders of US, UK, or Schengen  visas  can  apply  for the  visa  upon arrival. Saudi Arabia is opening its doors to the world through its new tourist visa. Visitors will have the chance to discover and experience the warm hospitality of the Saudi people, the rich heritage, the vibrant culture, and Saudi Arabia’s diverse and breathtaking landscapes. The visa will be a one-year, multiple-entry visa, allowing tourists to spend up to 90 days in the country.

Are non-Muslims allowed in Saudi?

Non-Muslims can travel to all cities in Saudi Arabia except Medinah and Mekkah, Not allowed to non-Muslims to enter Mecca and Medinah.

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Both men and women are asked to dress modestly in public, avoiding tight-fitting clothing. Women should cover their shoulders and knees in public.

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Boutique hotels and buzzing souqs: Discover the historic heart of Jeddah

The Jeddah Historic District programme will see the restoration of some 600 historic properties for residential, tourism and business purposes.

In the airy, high-ceilinged dining room of Beit Johkdar Hotel, Jeddah, breakfast is being served. It begins with a basket of warm bread - sesame seed encrusted, cardamon infused and traditional flatbread - with herby butter and black honey.

Next come the entreés, spicy olive tapenade, grilled halloumi with apricot jam, fried vegetables and a mini loaf of feta-marbled bread. This is followed by homemade falafel with tahini dipping sauce, spiced hummus, foul mudammas beans and shakshuka.

By the time the tiny pancakes, banana bread and fresh fruit arrive, I’ve long admitted defeat. I soon learn the exquisitely presented dishes, deferential waiting staff and sheer volume of food are typical of Saudi hospitality.

Beit Johkdar is one of three historic hotels that have just opened in Jeddah, a city on the Red Sea coast. Several more properties in Al Balad - the old town - are due to open in the next few years. All are part of the Jeddah regeneration project and the wider, ambitious Saudi vision for tourism.

As a country that only began offering tourist visas in 2019, it is a bit of a wild card for a holiday - all the more so if you visit during Ramadan, as I did. Here’s how the country is undergoing dramatic change as it opens up to tourism and how you can dive into its artisanal culture, belt-busting cuisine and storied hospitality in Jeddah.

Jeddah: An ancient city undergoing a renaissance

Driving from the airport into the heart of Jeddah city, you pass kilometre after kilometre of residential blocks, flashy stores and illuminated shopping arcades. But the historic centre - known as Al Balad - is what is drawing tourists.

The name of this ancient city derives from the word grandmother, referring to Eve who descended to earth right on the spot where the city now stands, as Abeer Abu Suleiman, Saudi Arabia’s first female tour guide, explains.

As early as the 1st century BCE, Jeddah was already a thriving fishing hub and a prominent stop on trading routes. It also flourished thanks to its role as the gateway to Mecca , welcoming religious pilgrims from across the globe on their Hajj journeys.

Al Balad has remained the historic heart of this city but, by the late 20th century, its antiquated homes were being abandoned by families seeking more modern and well-equipped houses in newer neighbourhoods.

The area’s fortunes began to change with its UNESCO designation in 2014. In 2021, a regeneration masterplan was announced - and royally endorsed - and the Jeddah Historic District programme was launched to restore some 600 historic properties for residential, tourism and business purposes.

The buildings are constructed from coral stone, limestone and wood. Some are many centuries old and painstaking work has gone into researching and passing on the knowledge of local materials and craftsmanship .

The houses of Al Balad are famous for their roshan - wooden box balconies covering windows intricately decorated with latticework designs and painted in Tunisian blue and Saudi green. These multifunctional structures allow a breeze into rooms, block sunlight and once provided a private space where women could look out without being observed.

Beyond the buildings, the project aims to regenerate the spirit and vitality of a community. In the squares, there are wooden benches and games for children. Museums like the Tariq Abdulhakim Music Center, named after a renowned Saudi musician, have opened. In a labyrinth of narrow alleys, the collective Zawiya 97 has provided workshop space for artisans producing contemporary products using traditional techniques.

Reem Abdulghani demonstrates her own 3D embroidery technique and her clothing label makes a statement with the use of fuchsia and yellow instead of the ubiquitous black and beige of women’s outfits. At woodturning workshop ‘Aromat’, 29-year-old Hassan Mohammed sells artisanal hand-crafted bowls, vases, and candlesticks.

Boutique hotels in historic homes: Where to stay in Jeddah

By the end of the project, 34 structures in Al Balad will house boutique hotels . Three are already operating - Beit Jokhdar, Beit Al Rayess and Beit Kedwan - all within walking distance of each other.

The concept behind the properties is much more than just a place to sleep. The historic residences are named after their previous owners and recreate the personal, individualised experience akin to being a house guest. Their descendants shared memories to help with the restoration.

On arrival, I am shown to the ‘lobby’ in Beit Johkdar, the grandest of the three properties and a kind of central hub at the moment. The entrance hall with its high wooden beamed ceiling, pale stone flags and Arabic inscriptions in gypsum is lit by a chandelier.

I'm poured Arabic coffee - ochre-coloured and infused with cardamom - from a sleek gold-coloured pot while Arabic music tinkles softly. I relax on a plush velvet sofa as the receptionist does the paperwork somewhere out of sight.

At Beit Al Rayess, the architecture is more intimate, with lower ceilings and archways graced with giant ceramic vases. I have a sequence of little rooms - entranceway, bathroom, living area, dressing area and bedroom. The furnishings are dark wood, cream upholstery and plenty of plants.

Beit Kedwan can only be rented in its entirety and has two bedrooms. The lavish residence has a living room with Moorish arched niches and mother-of-pearl inlaid tables and a roof terrace with cushioned seating, lanterns and a canopy. The grand main bedroom has two large artistically-faded rugs and a Murano-style chandelier.

What is it like to visit Jeddah during Ramadan?

Travellers may consider it unwise to visit during Ramadan season; it certainly poses challenges like the lack of food outlets open during the day. But if you can be flexible with your itinerary and sleep schedule, the Muslim festive period is joyous to experience.

Aside from brief two to three-hour windows, shops, restaurants and cafes are closed until late afternoon or evening. But the dearth of crowds during the day does present an opportunity to take a tour on a golf cart unimpeded and snap some atmospheric photos.

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The reason to visit during Ramadan becomes clear around 6pm, when queues form in front of streetside kiosks serving freshly prepared traditional foods - strips of beef liver, khubz bread, samosas, a banana and date bake and a fermented yoghurt drink called sobia.

People from all around Jeddah and further afield pile into Al Balad in the evening for iftar - the breaking of the fast. Families, groups of friends and couples gather at tables set out in the squares beneath trees bedecked with fairy lights. They unpack their kiosk food from bags and open takeaway boxes in preparation for sunset.

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The atmosphere is quiet and reflective. The muezzin begins his undulating call that resonates around the piazzas and signals that it’s time to break the fast. It is a spiritual and devotional moment but one of community and warmth.

As evening fades to night, people crowd the streets in their finery; abayas are encrusted with gold beads, pearls and embroidery.

There are dozens of ushers with Ramadan-tagged vests to direct the foot traffic and hype up the crowd with celebratory shouts. There's also an army of street cleaners who seem to appear at your elbow miraculously the moment you have empty containers.

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At perfume shops, staff stand outside with chalices of burning incense wafting their smoky fragrance over passersby in a traditional welcome.

With Abeer, I while away the hours peeking into 300-year-old buildings with rooftop stargazing and museums with tasters of Ramadan sweets. We dip into tiny shops in the city’s five souqs where abayas bulge from racks along the walls; and learn about the Mecca pilgrimage at the 600-year-old Al Shafei mosque.

I retire to bed at 1am, but the Jeddawi stay out much longer.

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