madeira birds trip reports

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Monday 4 July 2022

Madeira windbirds seabirding trip report 25th-28th june 2022.

The following is a trip report from a visit to Madeira in June 2022. 

A group of six birders from West Cornwall booked three days with the well known  Madeira Windbird s tours and an additional day-tripper sailing to Desertas Island. Windbirds always depart Machico harbour at 3pm and the Bonita da Madeira departs Funchal at 9am. 

We spent seven days in Madeira but this amount of time is unnecessary if its just seabirds you're after. Away from the coast, there's limited birdlife and all of it can be mopped up in a single morning. Any future trips would be for five days maximum.

Windbirds  is a professional company specialising in watching seabirds and cetaceans. Hugo and Catarina set up the company18 years ago with a ten-seater, 11 metre rib. Two powerful outboard motors get you 25 miles offshore in approx. 90 mins. The team have exact coordinates of the best places to bird.  

You need full waterproof kit including leggings.  Essentially, you are going to get soaking wet, especially on the South side return leg or when you bird the North of the island on the outward leg. There's no formulae on which side to sit. If its windy, you'll get wet.  I wore deck shoes but a pair of crocks or old sandels is fine. (Your feet will also get wet). A wet bag is also essential for your kit.

Windbirds use a tried and tested method of chumming from a floating bucket of diced fish, laced with fish oil. The bucket is re filled several times during the five hour session.  The rib remains alongside the bucket throughout and never leaves the chum slick. The chum slick is created and pretty soon, the petrels and shearwaters arrive.

Bonita da Madeira  is a large day tripper boat specialising in trips to Desertas Grande. The captain will pursue cetaceans or seabirds of interest but keep a respectful distance. The ship lands passengers on Desertas Grande island with a useful and knowledgeable guide to the island's wildlife. We were shown Bulwer's and Cory's breeding burrows. We also saw 12 Desertas Petrels and hundreds of Cory's on the voyage over to the island.  For 80 euros, its well worth it. A free cooked meal and wine is also offered. Well recommended.

The following species accounts give some idea of what can be seen:

Desertas Petrel . Over the four days at sea ie. 25th, 26th, 27th and 28th June, we saw 12, 4, 4, 6 birds respectively. Some views were distant and others reasonably close to the boat.  The name Pterodroma is Greek for Wind Bird, and as the name suggests, these birds thrive in high winds and power through the chum slick at impressive speeds. Some circle round the chum bucket but generally move on quickly. You have to be quick off the mark with id. and any photography.  The species breeds on Bugio Island, which is one of the three Desertas islands (adjacent to Desertas Grande).

Zino's Petrel : Over the four days at sea ie. 25th, 26th, 27th and 28th June, we saw 0, 2, 3, 2 birds respectively and had some really good close views. This species is the number one target for visiting birders. Up to date information from birders at the breeding site on the Madeiran mountain estimate around 80 breeding pairs and a total of just 300 birds. Thus, this species is super rare and extremely vulnerable, especially to feral cats and rodents on the mountain where it breeds.

We visited the mountain breeding site at midnight to listen to them calling. Whilst the conditions of rain, mist and strong wind weren't ideal, we did hear the mournful sounds coming from the burrows. The visit is organised by Hugo and Catarina. (50 Euros.)

Bulwer's Petrel:  Over the four days at sea ie. 25th, 26th, 27th and 28th June, we saw hundreds daily. The species breeds locally on Desertas Island and becomes easier further out in deeper water. Bulwer's visits the chum bucket  and affords close views. That said, its a very tricky bird to photo. Its crazed flight at super speed means only the best modern cameras keep up with it. I took about 500 shots of Bulwer's and just a dozen were acceptable. We were shown a nest site on Desertas in a stone wall with a bird sitting on the nest.

Madeiran Storm Petrel:  This species is a prime target and despite local breeding, is surprisingly difficult to connect with. We saw just two birds on the last day. Both visited the chum slick, one staying for 20 minutes giving stunning views. Bob Flood from Scilly Pelagics also saw one the following week. This species was a key target for us as there are a couple Cornwall records. We wanted to familiarise ourselves just in case one flies past Pendeen! 

Windbirds' skill and experience in approaching this species at the chum bucket was perfect, manoeuvring the rib perfectly to obtain the best views.

European Storm Petrel : Just one was seen on day 2.

Wilson's Storm Petrel : One adult in moult was seen on day 3. It visited the chum bucket and regularly worked the chum slick for a 30 minutes affording excellent views, sometimes close.

Cory's Shearwater : The second commonest seabird behind Bulwer's Petrel. Large rafts of scores and occasionally hundreds of birds seen. There were more on the northern pelagic return leg. Perhaps a couple thousand near the narrow channel linking north and south of the island. This was the largest concentration we saw.  Visits to the chum bucket gave stunning close views.

Manx Shearwater : No more than ten birds seen over the four days. The species is suspected of breeding on Madeira but as yet unproven. Regular summer records suggest otherwise.

Little Shearwater : None seen on our trips but Niall Keogh found one on a ferry trip from Madeira to Porto Santo. One was also seen well from the Windbirds pelagic the following week. Little Shearwater is a prize find and is not guaranteed.

White-faced Storm Petrel : None seen.

Rock Sparrow : One pair seen on the walk to the east end of the island, about 1k from the turning circle car parking area. Berthelot's Pipit and Canary also seen here.

Trocaz Pigeon : We saw a few at Palheiro Gardens north of Funchal and singles dotted around the vast mountain forests.   Madeiran Firecrest  was also seen and heard here.

Peregrine Falcon : We saw two on the coast at Machico. Apparently this species is rare here. Hugo and Catarina stopped the rib to photo it. We also saw the occasional Sparrowhawk, Common Buzzard and Kestrels. A moribund House Martin found on the Desertas Grande shoreline was unusual.

In summary, this is a relatively easy place to fly to, fairly cheap living and easily accessible with a hire car. Depending on your culinary and drinking habits, the total trip cost from door to door shouldn't cost more than about £1200. Well worth it.

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Birding Madeira

Madeira, as an island with temperate climate and dense vegetation is an ideal habitat for birds. Moreover, when it was discovered, in 1419, the only animals found here were birds and the endemic wall lizard Lacerta dugesii. As an island habitat, species which live here have adapted themselves to the geographical conditions; over time this causes endemism; 21% of Madeira bird species and sub-species can only be seen in the Madeira Archipelago whilst 33% are species and sub-species endemic to the Macaronesia region (this is the geographical region which comprises the archipelagos of Madeira, Azores, Canary islands and Cape Verde and also part of Northwest of Africa).

So, for those of you who thought that Madeira was only a trekking and beach holiday destination, be aware that there is birdlife here that makes the island worth a visit. Zino’s Petrels Pterodroma Madeira Trocaz Pigeon Columba trocaz and Madeira Firecrest Regullus madeirensis are the exclusively Madeiran species but there are also some interesting sub-species such as the Madeira Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs madeirensis, a race of Berthelot’s Pipit Anthus bertheloti madeirensis, and Madeira Rock Sparrow Petronia petronia madeirensis among others. As part of Macaronesia, Madeira has Fea’s Petrel Pterodrom fea, Plain Swift Apus unicolor and Canary Serinus canaria canaria as well as 13 sub-species including Little Shearwater Puffinus assimilis baroli, White-face Storm Petrel Pelagodroma marina hypoleuca, Kestrel Falco tinnunculus canariensis, Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus granti and Yellow-legged Gulls Larus cachinans atlantis to name but a few.

In general the Madeira Archipelago has 43 breeding species but beyond that it has some regular visitants like Little and Cattle Egrets, Whimbrel, Dunlin, Turnstone and sometimes very interesting accidental vagrants like Laughing Gulls, Spoonbills etc.If you want some birdwatching hot spots in Madeira then there is nothing like going to its IBAs (Important Bird Areas). In Madeira Island there are 4 IBAs all being situated in areas where human occupation is reduced or in difficult to access sites. Three of these are integrated into Madeira’s Natural Park, so are protected areas. This is the case for the Laurel Forest, the Central Mountainous Massif and Ponta de São Lourenço. The other IBA is in Ponta do Pargo – see these hotspots described below.

This page is sponsored by EVOA - Tagus Estuary Birdwatching and Conservation Area

Central Mountainous Massif

Laurel forest, ponta de são lourenço, ponta do pargo, catarina fagundes.

Madeira | [email protected]

iGoTerra Checklist

A Birdwatchers' Guide to Portugal, the Azores & Madeira Archipelagos

Birds of the atlantic islands, field guide to the birds of macaronesia, where to watch birds in the madeira archipelago, wildlife of madeira and the canary islands, african bird club, sociedade portuguesa para o estudo das aves.

Abbreviations Key

NP Parque Natural da Madeira

Madeira wind birds, 2007 [05 may] - ashley beolens, 2010 [02 february] - catarina fagundes, 2011 [11 november] - honeyguide, 2012 [11 november] – catarina fagundes, 2015 [08 august] - andreas ranner, 2017 [07 july] - catarina correia- fagunde s, 2017 [09 september] - gergő gábor nagy, 2018 [03 march] - mark graham, 2019 [02 february] - geoff upton, 2019 [03 march] - dave flumm, 2019 [03 march] - mark graham - cruise, madeira birding, madeira seawatching, aves at ilha da madeira.

Fatbirder - linking birders worldwide... Wildlife Travellers see our sister site: WAND

Bird Watching in Madeira

Contemplating life in nature.

• Chaffinch (Fringilla coelebs madeirensis);
• Bis bis (Regulus ignicapillus madeirensis);
• Papinho (Erithacus rubecula rubecula);
• Grey Wagtail (Motacilla cinerea schmitzi);
• Zino's Petrel (Pterodroma Madeira).

Madeira, 5-12 September 2000 ,

Travel Info

We booked a flight including accommodation and transfer from Stockholm via the Swedish travel agency Fritidsresor. We stayed at Hotel Casa Branca in the western part of Funchal, only a 5 minute walk to the sea (Lido) and 15 to the hot spot Ponta da Cruz. We rented a car (Renault Clio) from Moinho (best prize) via our travel agency. To get the best out Madeira's seabirds it is often necessary to get out onto the sea. Unfortunately we never get to the Desertas, because the boat only leave Funchal in optimal wind conditions. You have to check with Albatroz Organization (Phone:0-291-220327) every day. The sailing trip to Desertas cost 15000 Escudos (45 GBP) per person.

However, we took the ferry to Porto Santo (9000 Escudos/person) on 11 September. The problem was that we only had one hour birding before dusk on the way back from Porto Santo. To be true, the Porto Santo trip was not worth the money, even if we have excellent views of Cory's Shearwater and Bulwer's Petrel. But, note that many trip reports previous years could tell otherwise with Fea's/Zino's Petrel, Little Shearwater, Madeiran Storm Petrel, White-faced Storm Petrel and much more.

The trip to Desertas probably offer the best chances and excellent views of seabirds, especially Fea's/Zino's Petrel. But you never know: John Oates and company did not seen any Fea's/Zino's on the trip on 23 August 2000, but Rolf de By (NL) did see up to 30 birds on 9 September 2000. So, one could never take it for granted that a trip to Desertas (or Porto Santo) would produce these species.

Hot and sunny, mostly between 24 and 28°C, the whole period. On the northern parts there are often more or less cloudy.

Recommended Literature

Trip Report: Madeira, 18 September-2 October 1999, Keith Regan http://www.22briar.freeserve.co.uk/madeira_1999.htm

Madeira, an attractive birding destination , Juha Laaksonen, Alula 4/99

A birdwatchers Guide to Potugal and Madeira , C. C. Moore, G. Elias and H. Costa

5/9 Airport-Funchal-Botanic Garden-Lido pm 6/9 Ponta da Cruz am and pm 7/9 Porto Moniz 8/9 Funchal am-Balcoes am-Prainha pm-Ponta do Rosto pm 9/9 Porto Moniz am-Ponta do Pargo pm 10/9 Ponta da Cruz am-Botanic Garden-Funchal pm 11/9 Porto Santo 12/9 Ponta da Cruz-Airport am

Seawatching

There are many headlands on the island that look as they should produce good views of seabirds under the right conditions. The current knowledge suggests that they are mostly disappointing and one reason is that many presumed hot spots are placed too high over the sea, such as Ponta do Rosto. The best and most consistent seawatching spot is Ponta da Cruz, the most southerly point of the island, or at Lido. Here a westward movement in the morning and an eastward movement in the evening should be visible representing birds traveling to and from the Desertas. The winds were predominantly light on the southside of the island and always more brisk along the northern coastline. Seawatching elsewhere was even less productive with the very notable exception of Porto Moniz - an excellent and low placed spot. We did seawatch from here on two days and the first day (7 th September) was outstanding, se table below. All Great, Sooty and Manx Shearwater headed towards west, probably true migraters. It was a feast for the eye to watch this species in very good conditions and many close views! A memory for life! We found the best place to watch from was the shore parade, between the two natural swimming pools.

Species List (english, scientific and swedish names)

Fea's/Zino's Petrel - Pterodroma feae/madiera - Atlant-/Madeirapetrell 1 - Ponta da Cruz 6/9 07:20 to 11:45am. Unfortunately the only observed bird on the trip!

Bulwer's Petrel - Bulweia bulwerii - Spetsstjärtad petrell 20 - from Lido in the evening 5/9. 25 - Ponta da Cruz 6/9 07:20 to 11:45am and 17:00 to 20:15pm. 17 - Porto Moniz 7/9 07:50am to 20:00pm. 12 - Porto Moniz 9/9 08:20am to 14:40pm. 6 - Ponta da Cruz 10/9 07:30 to 10:00am. 8 - Porto Santo Ferry 11/9 08:00 to 11:00am and 19:00 to 20:15pm.

Cory's Shearwater - Calonectris diomedea borealis - Gulnäbbad lira 150 - from Lido in the evening 5/9. 800 - Ponta da Cruz 6/9 07:20 to 11:45am and 17:00 to 20:15pm. 800 - Porto Moniz 7/9 07:50am to 20:00pm. 1000 in one big flock! - Ponta do Rosto 8/9 17:40 to 18:50pm. 460 - Porto Moniz 9/9 08:20am to 14:40pm.  90 - Ponta da Cruz 10/9 07:30 to 10:00am. 270 - Porto Santo Ferry 11/9 08:00 to 11:00am and 19:00 to 20:15pm. 80 - Ponta da Cruz 12/9 07:20 to 08:30am.

Birds feeding and resting on the water can be seen almost everywhere particularly from headlands and during the ferry trip to Porto Santo.

Great Shearwater - Puffinus gravis - Större lira 219 - Porto Moniz 7/9 07:50am to 20:00pm. Mostly single birds or pairs. Small parties of 3-4 birds were also seen. 195 of the birds was counted between 15:00 and 20:00pm. Distant large shearwaters was not counted, but could have produced more of the Great one. 1 - Ponta da Cruz 9/9 in the morning (Stefan Göransson).

Sooty Shearwater - Puffinus griseus - Grålira 5 - Porto Moniz 7/9 07:50am to 20:00pm. A very unexpected shearwater on this trip!

Manx Shearwater - Puffinus puffinus - Mindre lira 334 - Porto Moniz 7/9 07:50am to 20:00pm. They passed very close and we probably missed many flocks when looking after larger shearwaters. 78 - Porto Moniz 9/9 08:20am to 14:40pm. 1 - Ponta do Rosto 8/9 17:40 to 18:50pm.

Little Shearwater - Puffinus assimilis baroli - Dvärglira 20 - Porto Moniz 7/9 07:50am to 20:00pm (all were seen in the morning). As for Manx we surely missed some birds.

Little Egret - Egretta garzetta - Silkeshäger 1 - Funchal Harbour 8/9. 1 towards east - Ponta da Cruz 10/9 07:30 to 10:00am.

Grey Heron - Ardea cinerea - Gråhäger 6 + 10 -  Ponta da Cruz 6/9. 6 - Porto Santo 11/9.

Sparrowhawk - Accipiter nisus granti - Sparvhök 5 birds were seen in total.

Buzzard - Buteo buteo - Ormvråk Widespread and conspicuous. At least 45 birds were seen in total ( 5 at Ponta do Pargo 9/9).

Kestrel - Falco tinnunculus canariensis - Tornfalk Widespread and conspicuous. Seen daily.

Red-legged Partridge - Alectoris rufa hispanica - Rödhöna 2 - Fonte da Pedra (7 km south Porto Moniz) 9/9 at dawn. The birds were heard playing.

Turnstone - Arenaria interpres - Roskarl The commonest wader found on Madeira. One or two could usually be found on rocky beaches and Harbour walls ( 15 - Funchal Harbour walls 8/9).

Whimbrel - Numenius phaeopus - Småspov 1 - Porto Moniz 7/9. 1 - Funchal Harbour 8/9. 4 - Porto Moniz 9/9 08:20am to 14:40pm. 1 - Ponta da Cruz 10/9 07:30 to 10:00am.

Pomarine-/Arctic Skua - Stercorarius pomarinus/parasiticus - Bredstjärtad-/Labb 1 distant bird - Porto Moniz 9/9 08:20am to 14:40pm.

Atlantic Herring Gull - Larus michahellis atlantis - "Medelhavstrut" Common on the coast particularly around the Port at Funchal. Birds were also seen on the high plateau of Paul Da Serra.

Lesser Black-backed Gull - Larus fuscus graellsii - Silltrut 2 juvenile - Ponta da Cruz 6/9 07:20 to 11:45am and 17:00 to 20:15pm. 1 adult - Funchal Harbour 8/9. 2 adult - Ponta da Cruz 10/9 07:30 to 10:00am. 1 adult - Ponta da Cruz 12/9 07:20 to 08:30am.

Common Tern - Sterna hirundo - Fisktärna 20 - from Lido in the evening 5/9. 34 - Ponta da Cruz 6/9 07:20 to 11:45am and 17:00 to 20:15pm. 15 - Porto Moniz 7/9 07:50am to 20:00pm. 15 - Funchal Harbour 8/9. 20 - Porto Moniz 9/9 08:20am to 14:40pm.

Arctic Tern - Sterna paradisaea - Silvertärna 1 adult - Ponta da Cruz 6/9 07:20 to 11:45am and 17:00 to 20:15pm. 5 - Porto Moniz 7/9 07:50am to 20:00pm. 2 - Funchal Harbour 8/9. 1 - Porto Moniz 9/9 08:20am to 14:40pm.

Feral Pigeon - Columba livia - Stadsduva Common, but we did not find many "Rock Dove", except for 40-50 "pure"  birds at Ponta do Pargo 9/9.

Long-toed Pigeon - Columba trocaz - Madeiraduva 2-3 - between Faja da Cedro Gordo and Riberio Frio 8/9 15:00pm.

Barn Owl - Tyto alba schimtzi - Tornuggla 1 - Casa Branca 6/9. 2 - Ponta da Cruz 6/9 at dawn. Probably breeding birds. Exellent views and also heard frequently. 2 - Canhas in the evening 7/9. 3 - Ponta da Cruz 10/9 at dawn. 1 - Ponta da Cruz 12/9 07:20am.

Plain Swift - Apus unicolor - Enfärgad seglare Common everywhere.

Hoopoe - Upupa epops - Härfågel 3 - Ponta do Pargo 9/9 16:00 to 16:45pm. 1 - Porto Santo 11/9.

Grey Wagtail - Motacilla cinerea schmitzi - Forsärla Common and can be seen almost anywhere.

Berthelot's Pipit - Anthus berthelotii madeirensis - Kanariepiplärka 10-15 - Prainha 8/9. 2 - Ponta de São Lourenço  8/9. 10 - Ponto do Rosto 8/9 (all three spots located at the western tip of Madeira). The birds at Ponta do Rosto was nearly tame and feeded successfully with bread! 2 - Ponta do Pargo 9/9 16:00 to 16:45pm. 2 - on the high plateau of Paul da Serra 9/9. 2 - Porto Santo 11/9.

Robin - Erithacus rubecula - Rödhake Heard and seen almost everyday.

Blackbird - Turdus merula cabrerae - Koltrast Heard and seen almost everyday.

Blackcap - Sylvia atricapilla obscura - Svarthätta Heard and seen almost everyday.

Spectacled Warbler - Sylvia conspicillata bella - Glasögonsångare 2 - Ponta do Pargo 9/9 16:00 to 16:45pm.

Madeira Firecrest - Regulus ignicapillus madeirensis - Brandkronad kungsfågel 15 - Balcoes 8/9 12:00 to 14:10pm. It was best seen and heard (the call slightly like Yellow-browed Warbler) by walking along levadas through Laurel forest such as the walk to Balcoes.

Chaffinch - Fringilla coelebs madeirensis - Bofink 4 - Balcoes 8/9 12:00 to 14:10pm.

Canary - Serinus canaria - Kanariesiska Beware of this species which are both common and extremely vocal. The calls sometimes is very like Linnet, Greenfinch, Twite and Goldfinch! Large flocks were seen at Ponta da Cruz and Ponta do Pargo.

Goldfinch - Carduelis carduelis parva - Steglits 6 - Funchal Garden 5/9.

Spanish Sparrow - Passer hispaniolensis - Spansk sparv 20 - Porto Santo 11/9.

Dolphins (not identified) Were seen on several occassions from Ponta da Cruz and the Porto Santo ferry.

Compiled by: Niklas Holmström Jakob Ulfssons väg 8 C SE-647 32  MARIEFRED SWEDEN E-mail: [email protected]

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