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New Zealand Herald's Stephanie Holmes and special guests feed your travel obsession. The world's best destinations, tips for being better travellers, and the things we can learn from our adventures ... it's the next best thing to being there yourself.

.css-14f5ked{margin:0;word-break:break-word;display:-webkit-box;-webkit-box-orient:vertical;box-orient:vertical;-webkit-line-clamp:2;overflow:hidden;} Best Beach 2024: Who will triumph in this year's vote?

In this special bonus episode of Trip Notes, the Herald Travel team is once again looking for New Zealand's Best Beach - this time with support from Fruju, NZ's favourite ice block.

To get the ideas ball rolling, NZ Herald Lifestyle and Travel editor Stephanie Holmes is joined by Celebrity Treasure Island finalist Turia Schmidt-Peke, and Small Town Scandal host Tom Sainsbury, to get their ideas.

To nominate and vote, head to nzhe...

.css-r6mb8g{margin:0;word-break:break-word;display:-webkit-box;-webkit-box-orient:vertical;box-orient:vertical;-webkit-line-clamp:1;overflow:hidden;} What is New Zealand's Best Beach? Here's how you can have your say

It’s been a while since you’ve heard from us here at Trip Notes, but we are back for a special bonus episode thanks to New Zealand’s favourite ice cream Tip Top in order to celebrate New Zealand’s Best Beach! But we need your help – we want you to tell us your favourite beaches around Aotearoa as part of the Herald’s Best Beach campaign.

We last crowned a winner back in 2021, when Ōhope voted New Zealand’s best beach. Now we’re l...

NZ Herald Travel presents Detour: Antarctica

See omnystudio.com/l...

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NZ Herald - Travel Cruise Special September 2022

SEPTEMBER6, 2022CR UI SESP EC IAL travel Cruise holidays areback andbetterthanever 64 page bumper issue Jumpin

WorldLeaderofLuxuryExpeditions *50%savingsonthesecondguestisbasedonthe PonantBonusoffer,isyieldmanagedandmaychangeat anytimewithoutnotice.Savingsarebasedonthecruisefareonlyandnotcombinablewith5% roadshow savings,WelcomeOffer,JointheClubOfferorotherpromotionaloffers.Offerisnotapplicableforsolotravellers.Offerisnotpublishedonau.ponant.com.OfferiscombinablewithPONANTYachtClubbenefits.Advertised costisbasedonthePonantBonusfareperstateroomandincludesthe50%savingsforthesecondguest,inAustralianDollars(AUD),basedonadoubleoccupancyinaDeluxeStateroomDeck3,includingporttaxes,yield managed,correctattimeofprinting,aresubjecttoavailabilityandcanbechangedatanytime.©PONANT-TamarSarkissian,©AdobeStock HIGHLIGHTS: •Anall-newexpeditiontodiscoverthetreasuresofNewZealandandtheChathamIslands,. •TheisolatedChathamIslands,80millionyearsold,andhometoseveralendemicbirdspecies. •Gainaninsightintothehistory,cultureandthediversityoffloraandfaunafromyour expertexpeditionteam. •Zodiacoutings&shorevisitswithyourexpeditionteam. NEWZEALAND SouthPacific Ocean AUCKLAND LYTTELTON Gisborne ChathamIslands Tauranga Kaikoura Napier SAVE 50% ONTHESECOND GUEST!* LeLapérouse JOINEDBYPHOTOAMBASSADORNICKRAINS NickRainshasbeenaprofessionalphotographerforalmost40years,startingoffwithyachtingandothersports beforespecialisingintravelanddocumentarywork.Hisimageshavebeenpublishedinbooksandmagazines aroundtheworldandheistheauthorof14photographybooks.NickhastravelledonmanydifferentPONANT expeditionsaroundtheglobe,fromtheRussianFarEastinthenorthtoAntarcticainthesouth. NEWITINERARYJUSTRELEASED! NewZealandMosaic &ChathamIslands LytteltontoAuckland|Departs7January2023|9nightsaboardLeLapérouse From$12,425perstateroomtwinshare* 2 | Tuesday,September6,2022 travel

Iftheimageonour cover looksalittle toolively foryour holidaytastes, pleasedon’tletit put youoff this week’sissueentirely. What you’lldiscoverinthese64jam-packedpagesis therereallyissomething foreveryonewhenit comes to cruising. Ican personallyattest to that —I’vebeenoneight cruisesinthepast12years,fromsmallshipadventures inNewZealand,Croatiaand Peru, to apreviewsailing in Barcelonaofthebiggest shipinthe world.When Ithinkbackonthemall,I’moverwhelmed by fond memoriesofsoul-enriching experiences —sunsetson theAmazonriver, divingfromthebackoftheshipinto thedazzlingblue waterofthe Adriatic,dancingonthe deckunderthe starsinthe Caribbean. Ican’t wait to getbackoutonthe water. Inour firstcruisespecialsinceOctober2019, we’re coveringallbaseswhenit comestocruise holidayinspiration,fromultimateonce-in-a-lifetime expeditions,tofamily-friendlysailings,tobargain breaksyou candowith agroupoffriends.Thereare voyageswherewellness isthe toppriority, brandnew shipswithcutting-edge technologies, andspecialty journeystaking youplaces othermodesoftransport can’treach. Onething we haven’tincludedistherulesaround vaccinations,facemasks, andthelike. Forgiveus —we’re notbeinglazy,it’ssimplythattherulesare changingsoquickly we’d likelybeoutofdatethe moment wewent to print.Mybest adviceistotalk to yourtravelagent,orcontactthecruiselinedirectto findoutall youneed to know. Travel Editor: StephanieHolmes DeputyEditor: Sara Bunny TravelWriters: Thomas Bywater, SarahPollok

Designers: CourtneyWhitaker,RobCox Features Production Editor: IsobelMarriner Sub-editors: JillStanford, MaureenMarriner,Sue Baxalle Cover: The AquaticClubon Virgin Voyages’ ValiantLady. Photo/@thefraserjames [email protected] nzherald.co.nz/travel Facebook.com/nzhtravel Instagram.com/nzhtravel Listentoourpodcast Trip NotesatiHeartRadio Advertising: Samantha Glasswell [email protected] All pricesineditorial contentare inNZdollars, unless [email protected] VOYAGESOFALIFETIME 10 destinations to puton your ultimate wishlist EUROPECRUISES VoyagesInNorthern EuropeandtheMediterranean EXPEDITIONS Off thebeaten track in Indonesia,AntarcticaandtheGalapagos RIVERCRUISING The world’smust-sail destinations COMINGSOON The newships launching in2023and beyond USSAILINGS ExploringAlaskaand Hawaii FAMILYCRUISING Thenew Disneyship, plustips formulti-generationalholidays AUSTRALIAANDNZ Theitineraries settingsailclose to home NOURISHINGBODYANDSOULThe best cruises forfoodies, andwellness-focused itineraries 8 28-33 14-25 34-37 39-41 » » » » » » 42-45 FROMTHE TRAVEL EDITOR ScanthisQR code with yourmobile phone to find moregreattravel tips,adviceand inspirationfrom nzherald.co.nz/ travel 46-49» 50-52 54-58 » » travel Tuesday,September6,2022 | 3

Thewayitused to be.... Local’swhowave andsayhello,ﬁshingakin to Granddad’sstories,rugged, stunning landscapes,whitesandbeachesandseafood to die for–allthisis wrappedupinoneclose to homedestination–TheChathamIslands. Oftenlastheardon aradionewsweatherreport, theChathamIslandsisjust2 hours25minutes ﬂightfromthe“mainland”.Independenttravel ispossibleontheIsland,butanorganised tour is thebestway to experiencealltheislandhas tooﬀer.Takingadvantageofthe experience andaccessaﬀorded to thelocalguides youwill have thechance to exploretheisland,without thehassleof making awrongturn,orﬁnding attractionsclosedasthe “goneﬁshing”sign danglesfromthefrontgate. Eachdayhead out to exploretheisland, your directiondictated by theweather.Timeisnotas importanthere,asenjoying yourself andsoaking up yoursurroundings. Achancetowalk,chat, takephotos,goﬁshing,ﬂy to Pitt Island,enjoya specialhomecookedBBQareallpartandparcel of ahassle-free tour. Pick oftheaccommodationisHotelChathams. Comfortablerooms,greatlocationandevening mealsthathighlightthelocalproduce.Crayﬁsh andbluecodarethepeople’sfavourite. Ifit’sonyourbucketlist –booktoday –call CraigatPukekohe Travel0800785386. Phone:0800785386 |Email:[email protected] www.pukekohetravel.co.nz/chatham PUKEKOHETRAVEL ChathamIslands ThewayNew Zealandused to be.... Spring2022 and Summer 2023Selling Fast! Chatham Islands TOP reasons to visit • Contrasting landscapes & unique ﬂora & fauna • Savouring the local seafood • Fascinating history of this unspoilt corner of New Zealand • Opportunity to visit Pitt Island • Fishing like it used to be • 8 day all inclusive tours Chatham Islands Advertisement [email protected] CONTACTS

ExploringAntarcticaisa once-in-a-lifetime experience,a cruiselikeno other —andwhiletheall-inclusive flights, accommodationandcruisepackagepricemight comeas anicyshock,at first, thispromisesatrulypriceless 12-night adventure.Antarctica’suntouchedsceneryoficebergs andglaciersis teemingwith fantasticwildlife: penguins, seals,whalesandbirds.You’llsailon MS FridtjofNansen, oneofHurtigrutenExpeditions twin world-firsthybridpoweredships,whichhasoneofthelowest CO2- footprints ofall expedition voyagestothis region.Thepricestarts at $15,999pp,twin-share. Book by theendofthismonth (September 30).Departs onJanuary17. Contact: Houseof Travel,0800 713715or houseoftravel.co.nz/hot-deals/deals/crs-highlights-ofantarctica-all-inclusive

CRUISETOTHE EDGEOFTHEWORLD

It’s a“very British”cruisewhen you’rerelaxingonboard theQueen VictoriaasshesailstheBritishIsles. ABalcony Stateroombooked fora 12-night,luxurious voyage starts at $4695ppandtheaccommodation comeswithoneUS$500 on-boardcredit.DepartingfromSouthamptononMay25, you’llsailintoEdinburgh, Kirkwallinthe OrkneyIslands, Stornoway ontheIsleof Lewis,Belfast, Liverpool,and Holyheadin Wales. GratuitiesofUS$12 to $14pp,pernight, arepayableonboard.Bookbeforetheendofthismonth— thedeadlineis September 25.AirfaresfromNew Zealand areadditional. Contact: TravelAssociates, 0800951655or travel-associates.co.nz/britishislescruise

ROMANCEON THERHINE

Checktrafficlight settingsand Ministry ofHealthadvice beforetravel. covid19.govt.nzCruise SUNTOFIJI Aneight-night Fiji escapeaboardP&O PacificExplorerispricedfrom $1199ppand Stateroom comeswith aAU$150onboardcredit. Upgrade to aBalconyroomforan extra$70pp,per night,andtheonboardcreditbecomesAU$250 worth.Theshipsailsfrom Aucklandon August21 andSuva, Port Denarau,andDravuniIslandare ontheitinerary. Book by this September 25.The returnairfare to NewZealandisnotincluded.

Contact: FlightCentre,0800 427555or flightcentre.co.nz/fijicruise MAGNIFICENTMEDITERRANEAN Cruisethe magnificentMed overninenightsinJunenext year,callingin to explore thehistoric Europeanports and baysofItalyandGreece. Book your Oceanview CabinonNorwegianBreakaway by this Saturday, September11.Pricedfrom $3675pp,four“freeatsea”bonusesinclude abeveragepackage, aspeciality diningpackage,shoreexcursionsand aWi-Fi package.Itineraryhighlights rangefrom SantoriniandMykonos, Corfu, VallettainMalta,Messina (Sicily),Naples, Livornoandback to Rome,fromwherethecruise departs on June 5. Airfares fromNewZealandareadditional. Contact: FlightCentre,0800 427555or flightcentre.co.nz/italygreececruise France, O’s dyour Send your Hot Dealsto hotdeals@ nzherald.co.nz * Checkalldeals with operators

SAILON ACRUISESHIP FITFOR AQUEEN

aroundtheworldwithexclusivetraveldeals CHASETHE

Injectawholelotof ro intoyourlivesandtak timeoutfromNewZealand’s chilliermonths by heading Europe foranAvalon RomanticRhinecruisethrough the waterwaysinSwitzerland,Fra GermanyandHolland. Pricedfrom$4315each,thissevennightluxuriouscruiseincludes gourmetcuisine, regional wineandbeerwithmeals,and achoiceofdailyonshore excursions.ThedramaticRhineGorgeis ahighlight —home to ancient castlestowering120mabove theriver. Thecruise departs from SwitzerlandonMay13. Book by theend of thismonth (September 30).AirfaresfromNew Zealandare additional. Contact: TravelAssociates, 0800951655 or travel-associates.co.nz/rhinecruise

travel Tuesday,September6,2022 | 5 *Offers available foralimitedtimeorunlesssoldout.Seeour websiteforfull termsand conditions. IVARG19001-32297 WE’REOPEN 7DAYS–CALLUSNOWTOBOOK 0800475 025 ORBOOKONLINE AT inspiringvacations.com BOOK WITHCONFIDENCE:7-DAY COOLINGOFFPERIOD BRAZIL ARGENTINA PERU 1BuenosAires Sacred Valley Lake Titicaca Iguazu Falls 2 2AmazonJungle 2 RiodeJaneiro 3 Lima 3 Cusco Puno 3 2 Machu Picchu 19 DAYINSPIRINGSOUTHAMERICA Our wholeholidayexperiencewasgreat. We hadnoproblems, we hadfabulousguides full ofinterestingfacts andinformation. Ouraccommodationwas amazing. IhighlyrecommendInspiringVacations. Big experiences await:bothsidesofspectacular Iguazu Falls, theIncatreasureMachuPicchuand spiritedRiodeJaneiro. You’ll even explorethe Amazonjungleandvisitindigenous communities ontheislandsofLakeTiticaca. •Small,intimate group –nomorethan20people •Allinternalﬂights, coach,railandboatjourneys •16nightsin quality, comfortableaccommodation •2 nightsinaneco-friendly,PeruvianAmazonlodge •Fullyescorted by expert,English-speakingguides TRAVELFROM FEB2023 TO NOV2023 Rail Coach Flight Boat 1 No.nights 2022SOLDOUT– BOOKYOURPLACENOWFOR2023 ADDRETURN AIRFARES FOR $1,499* PERPERSON INSPIRINGSOUTHAMERICA 19 DAY BEST-SELLINGADVENTURETHROUGHARGENTINA,BRAZIL& PERU BUENOS AIRES• RIODE JANEIRO •LIMA •AMAZONJUNGLE •IGUAZUFALLS•MACHUPICCHU •CUSCO• LAKETITICACA $6,799* 19days perperson twinsharefromjust TYPICALLY$13,400 $99DEPOSITOPTION AVAILABLE ScantheQR code to hear fromourSouthAmerica destination expertMartin andlearnmoreabout theseincrediblejourneys. SCANHERE WEKNOW SOUTH AMERICA

2. Cruising makestravel easy Whether it’s work stress, ill health or the travails of parenting,all our lives have their challenges. Holidays shouldn’t be oneofthem.Cruising smoothsthe way, whatever type of trip you’re interested in taking.

6 | Tuesday, September 6, 2022 travel Opinion »

What’s so great about cruising, anyway?

And when you travel on the water ratherthan land, there’s no timewasted in traffic queues, and nobody needs to refuse an extraglassofwine because they’ll be behind the wheeltomorrow. Pop that cork and settle downtowatch the world float by from your balcony or thetop deck bar, because the journeyisall partofthe pleasure.

3. Cruises visit multiple destinations It’s safe to say the past two years haven’t been anyone’s most adventurous ones. We’reall looking to makeupfor lost time, no matter which destinationsare on our wish lists. And there’s no quickernor more convenient way to pack alot into onetrip than by takinga cruise. Unpack once, then wake everyday to anew horizon and new experiences, whetheryou’re island hopping in Greece or Thailand, ticking off the picturesqueports of the Mediterraneanorthe Eastern Seaboard of the US, or takinga river cruisedown the Danubeorthe Mekong. You’ll get ataste of ahost of destinationsinone holiday, and if there’s oneyou adore, earmark it for a longer stay on your next trip.

5. Your budget is undercontrol Inflation is hitting us where it hurts. Rents, mortgages, food, fuel and power are all costing more than before, so stopping our discretionary spend spirallingisa must for most. No matter which line you sail with and what yourbudget is, acruisecomeswith an automaticlevel of control overyour spending.

Luxury cruise lines sometimesincludeeven more: drinks, shore excursions and even flights within the packagecost. Youronly extraspend could be on spa treatments and souvenirs, leavingyou free to enjoyyour trip without watching yourwallet.

1. Cruising is varied Mainstream cruise ships aren’t for everyone; neither arelarge resorthotels. But no onelets the existence of largeresorthotels stop them staying in characterful boutique hideaways, or ruralfarmstays, or top-of-the-range luxury addresses. All you need do is cherry-pick your ship the way you would ahotel. High-endcruises offer sprawlingsuiteswith butlerservice, fine-dining restaurants and opulent spas —everything you’d expect from aluxurystay on land, except it’s in adifferent location every day. Handy, right? Smallships have atrulynautical feel and help you get under the skin of adestination; calling in at tiny, off-the-beaten-track ports,organising activities with localexperts you’d struggle to find yourself, never wasting timeona bad restaurant or adud sight because youritinerary is carefullycurated Thoselargeships? You’ll find fun at every turn,fromwaterslides, climbing walls and cinemas to nightclubs, casinos and late night theatricalshows.

If your focus is rest and relaxation,it’s hard to find alower-effort holiday;with pools, restaurants, barsand entertainment just steps from your stateroom, you can spend many alazy day, only hopping off the ship if you feel like it. Even if you’re an active traveller and wantto squeeze everypossible experience out of yourtrip, acruise places it all at your fingertips —a new destination every dayand pre-planned excursions you can choose in advance. Whywaste valuable timeonplanning andlogistics when youcould be outthereexploring? Cruises areall killer,nofiller.

And expedition cruises are simply the best and frequently, only— way to see some of the world’swildest corners, whetherwe’re talking the frozen beauty of Antarctica or the tropical wonder of the Amazon.

Family-friendly ships offer age-specific kids’ and teens’ clubs where your brood can bond with others, andfor adults, excursionsand onboard activitieswill let you meet those with similar interests. If youget on, head for the bar together afterwards;ifyou don’t, don’t worry— ships are big enough that youcan go your separate ways

Cruiseexpert Joanna Booth flies theflag for holidays at sea

4. Cruising is sociable Whether you’re travellingwith apartner, family, friends or even sailing solo, acruise makes meeting like-minded people alongthe way a breeze. There’s no pressureand it’s all verylowkey —the days of set dining, and potentially being stuck at atable with the same peoplefor your whole trip, are long gone— but instead, there areplenty of sociable situations.

Accommodation,food, transportand entertainmentare included on virtually every cruise, meaning asignificant proportion of your holiday cost is set up front and in advance.

Photo /Getty Images ruise holidays can be adivisive issue.Advocatessing their praises— the romance of life on the openwaves, the convenience, the value.Others scoff. Criticisms often include crowded ships, endless eating and not enough time on shore. Frequently, the sceptics have made their decision withoutactually experiencing acruise. To these people Isay; there is acruise out there for everyone. Open your mind, look at the variety on offer and try one. And once you find yourcruise groove, you’ll be unstoppable.

travel Tuesday,September6,2022 | 7 •• • • • • • • •• •

Takea classicEuropeanriver cruise Thetoughestdecisionwiththis classiccruisejourneyischoosingyourfavouriteriver.The Rhineoffersbeautifulscenery andcastlesgalore,theDanubeis amustforcultureloversandthe Rhonepassesthroughsomeof France’smostfamouswineregions. Ifyouenjoyimmersingyourselfinnew destinationsandstayingactiveonholiday, AvalonWaterwaysofferActive&Discovery itinerariespackedwithhands-oninclusions likepaintingclasses,joggingsightseeing tours,wineryvisitsandcyclingand hikingtripson achoiceofrivers. Allow afewdaysatthebeginning andendofyourcruisetoexplore thehighlysought-afterEuropean destinationssuch asBudapest, Lisbon,Paris,andAmsterdam, whererivercruisesstart andend. avalonwaterways.co.nz FamilyfunintheSouthPacific TheSouthPacificisevenmoregorgeousthan theholidaybrochuresmakeoutandtheideal cruisedestinationfor amulti-generational holiday.Vila,thesleepycapitalofVanuatu, offersa charmingsliceofPacificislandlife, Lifouhasexcellentsnorkellingoryoucould enjoya do-it-yourselfmudspaatoneof Lautoka’s naturalthermalpoolsinFiji.With afewseadaysattheendofeachSouthPacific itinerary,you’llhaveplentyoftimetozip downCarnivalSplendor’sGreen Lightning waterslideandeaseyourwaybacktoreality beforetheshipdocks. carnival.com HangoutwithpenguinsinAntarctica Spotwhalesbreachingduringbreakfast,get upcloseandpersonalwithpenguinsandhear thethunderingcrashofglacierscalvinginto theoceanonanAntarcticacruise.Most cruisesdepartfromUshuaiainArgentinabut voyagesarealsoavailablefromNewZealand. ExplorerssuchasMawson,Scott,Shackleton andAmundsendepartedfromourregionso therearemanywell-preservedhuts fromthisbygoneeraofexploration —Mawson’sHutinCommonwealthBay,Shackletonand Scott’sHuts,and

Cruising: Dreamdestinations »

8 | Tuesday,September6,2022 travel

voyagesof10

Animallovers,adventurelovers,culture vultures,thosewhowanttoexperiencedays goneby or indulgetheir passions,there’sa cruiseforyou,writes TianaTempleman Main:SeeingpenguinsinAntarcticaisa must-dovoyageofa lifetime;top, experiencetheremoteKimberleyregion anditshorizontalwaterfalls;European rivercruisesgiveyoutheopportunityto seehistorictownsandcastles. Photos /GettyImages;Supplied;123rf F romtherelaxationof aTransatlanticcrossingtopenguinspottingonanexpedition voyage, aclassicEuropean riversailing,seeingthe NorthernLightsor sippingcocktailsintheSouthPacific, hereare10“don’tmiss”cruise journeysfromaroundtheglobeto tickoffyourlist. ExperiencethemagicofNorway WatchtheNorthernLightsdance acrosstheskyinwinter or takeinthe beautyoftumblingwaterfallsandspot localwildlifeduringsummer.Atthistime ofyear,themidnightsunensuresyouwon’t miss aminuteoftheincrediblescenery outsideyourwindow.Thereareshipstosuit everybudgetandtypeoftravellerin Norway,fromthefamilyfunofthebrand newNorwegianPrimatothesophistication andculinarydelightsofOceaniaCruises. Hurtigruten’sferriesoffer afreeClassic Voyagetopassengerswhodon’tseethe NorthernLightsonwintersailings. GowildintheKimberley Thereisonlyonewaytoexperience theremoteKimberleyregioninthe northofWesternAustralia,and that’sbysea.The Kimberleycoversalmost half amillionsquarekilometresandoffers cruisehighlightssuchaspoweringthrough theHorizontalWaterfallson ahigh-speed boat,viewingremoteAboriginalrock-art galleries,andexploringMontgomeryReefby zodiac.Beaches,waterholesandwalking trailsbeckonandmightywaterfallstumble downcliffs,solouditisalmostimpossible tohearyourselfspeak.Thebeautyof thisremoteregionisbeyond compare. coralexpeditions.com

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MeetthepeopleofPapuaNewGuinea Ifyouenjoytropicaldestinationsbut cravesomethingmoreculturally meaningfulthanpalmtreesandcolourful cocktails,PapuaNewGuineacouldbejust whatyou’relookingfor.Withpristine beaches,traditionaltribalvillagesand untouchedports,thisdestinationis becoming amust-dofortravellers seeking auniquemainstreamcruise experience.Highlightsincludea rollickingraftrideto atop snorkellingspotonKitavaIsland,a crazygameofTrobriandcricketwith the locals or finding your own piece ofparadiseontheuntouchedConflict Islands.CruiseonPacificEncounter andyou’llalso gettotryoneofour region’snewestships. pocruises.com.au Relivetheeleganceofcruising’s goldenera Cunard’sQueenElizabethoffersa tantalisingglimpseofdaysgoneby,when traditionssuchasdifferentrestaurantsfor differentclassesofpassengers,dressingfor dinnerandhighteaservedbywhite-gloved waiterswerea quintessentialpartof cruising.Theonboardatmosphereis friendlyratherthanfustybutdressing upforgalanightisamust.Everyone wearstheirbestandposesforphotos ontheGrandStaircase,spins around thedancefloorwithCunard’sconvivialdancehostsandrevelsinthe joyofexperiencinga differentera whenglamourwasalltherage. Voyagesrangingfromtwoto28nights areonofferduringtheship’slocal summerseason. cunard.com Indulgeyourpassionson athemecruise Combineyourloveofcruisingwithanother passionandyou’vegottheperfectholiday on athemecruise.Whetheryou’re interestedinsymphonies,solar eclipses,photographyorgardening, therewillalmostcertainlybea themecruisetosuityou.Onboard therearealltheusualthingsyou wouldexpecttofindon acruise, plusa specialisedprogrammeof themedevents,classes,lectures, andperformances. Atheme cruiseisidealforsingletravellers asit’seasytostrikeupaconversationwithsomanylike-minded travellersonboard. SailthroughthePanamaCanal WhenyouaretransitingthePanama Canalitisworthbravingtheelements outside —nomatterhowwetorwild theymaybe —toseethetoweringblack doorsofthefirstlockclangshutandwatch yourshipbeingliftedupto25metres abovethewater’slowerlevel.It doesn’ttakelongbeforethelockis full,thedoorsinfrontopen andthewatersofthePanama Canalcomeintoview —it’sa magnificentsighttobehold.If yourpartyisshortontime,itis possibletobook apartialtransit —thiswillallowyoutoonly travelhalfwaythroughthelocks soyoucanjoinshoreexcursions andalsohavethechancetoexplore Panamaitself.

travel Tuesday,September6,2022 | 9

Top: ATransatlanticcrossingis ariteofpassageformany cruisers;above, Whenyou cruisethroughthePanama Canal,youcan watchyourship beingliftedto25metresabove thewater’slowerlevel.

Borchgrevink’sHutintheRossSea,the oldestinAntarctica. NewZealanddepartures breakuptheopenoceancrossingwith afew daysexploringtheSubantarcticislands whichofferamazingwildlifeviewing opportunities. heritage-expeditions.com

TaketheTransatlanticroute CrossingtheTransatlanticisa riteofpassage formanycruisersandcanbesurprisingly affordableduetothelargenumberofseadays andlimitednumberofports.QueenMary2 offersregularweek-longcrossingsfromNew YorkCitytoSouthampton,oryoucouldtake arepositioningcruisetoorfromEuropeto CentralorSouthAmericaon amainstream linesuchasHollandAmericaorPrincess Cruises.Lifeonboardsettlesintoa comfortablerhythmwithanexpanded scheduleofactivitiestokeepeveryone entertained.Onboardclocksarecleverly woundforwardorbackbyonehourevery dayortwosopassengersavoidthedreaded jetlagandarriveattheirfinaldestination refreshed.

10 | Tuesday,September6,2022 travel AS KUSA BOUTOU RI RR ESIS TI BLEUPGR AD ES |LOW DEPOSIT AVA ILAB LE |O PEN 7DAYS 0800 110179 MYCRUISES CO.NZEXCLUSIVETO FROM AUCKLAND.*Prices arecorrect attime of publication,arebased ontwin-shareper personandsubject to availabilityandcurrencyﬂuctuations.Prices subject to changewithoutnotice, untilreservationis conﬁrmed. Termsand Conditionsapply. Alow deposit from$1499 perperson secures thecruisepackages. Aseconddeposit (partpayment)will be required,withthedateandamounttobeadvisedbyourCruiseExperts attime of booking. Forfulltermsand conditionsvisitMyCruises.co.nz. Theabove mentionedtermsand conditionsaretobereadinconjunctionwiththe termsand conditions publishedatMSCCruises.com.auand AvalonWaterways.com.au.Itinerariesare subject to changewith2023deployment.MyCruises provides holiday packagesofferedbyIgnite HolidaysPtyLtdandis asubsidiary of Ignite TravelGroup. IATA AccreditationNo.02363546. MEDITERRANEAN& EUROPEAN RIVERDISCOVERY 35 DAYFLY,STAY,OCEAN &RIVERCRUISEDISCOVERY WITH $4000BONUS VALUE Grand Rome ITALY Piraeus (Athens) GREECE Fredericia Warnemunde(Berlin) Gothenburg SWEDEN IJmuiden Southampton (London) La Coruna (Santiagode Compostela) Lisbon (Cascais) Alicante Genoa Palermo (Sicily) Kusadasi Istanbul TURKEY SPAIN DENMARK UK Basel RAIL SWITZERLAND Milan Basel Breisach Black StraForest sbourg Mainz RuHeidelberg desheim Cologne Amsterd GERMANY RIVER CRUISEAmsterdam NETHERLANDS Copenhagen 35 DAYFLY,STAY,OCEAN &RIVERCRUISE DISCOVERYWITH $4000 BONUS VALUE • InternationalﬂightstoCopenhagen returning fromMilan • BONUS 2Night hotelstaytoexplore the city of Copenhagen 24Night GrandMediterraneancruiseonboard MSC Poesia inanInterior Stateroom • Onboard diningandentertainment • Onboard allporttaxes andcharges • BONUS 1Night hotelstaytoexplore thecityofMilan • BONUS Scenic rail journey fromMilan to Basel 8Day relaxedluxuryrivercruisefromBasel to Amsterdam onboard Avalon Waterways • Locallysourced alacarte menusincluding regionalwine and beerwithlunchand dinner • Onboard complimentarywiﬁandprepaidgratuities Dailyonshore excursionswithexpertguides • BONUS MyCruises package savings • ExclusiveOceanCruiseUpgrade Available –Indulgeonboard with all-inclusivedrinks, wiﬁpackageandprepaidgratuities foronly$1499*pp(valuedatAUD$3504*) BOOKBY 15 SEP 22 SAIL DATE 12 SEP 23 DEAL CODE MC-2939 LOW DEPOSIT $1499*PP $9990* PERPERSON,TWINSHARE FROM VALUED AT $11,990* PERPERSON BOOK TODAY Setsailontheholiday of alifetimewithMyCruises, home of the best handcraftedcruisedeals.Embarkon an extraordinary oceancruisewithMSCCruises or explore thecultural heartofEuropeonaluxuryriver journeywithAvalon Waterways–bothoffer acruisediscovery you’ll neverforget. PERFECTLY PACKAGEDCRUISEHOLIDAYMy

travel Tuesday,September6,2022 | 11 BOOKTODAY THEGREEK ISLANDS, ITALY &SPAIN 24 NIGHT FLY, STAY &CRUISEDISCOVERY WITH $2000 BONUS VALUE Explore 24 NIGHT,FLY,STAY &CRUISEDISCOVERY WITH $2000 BONUSVALUE • InternationalﬂightstoRome returning fromMilan • BONUS 2Night hotelstaytoexplore the city of Rome • 19 NightcruisefromRome toGenoaonboardMSCDivinia inanInterior Stateroom Onboard diningacrossa rangeofcomplimentaryvenues • Onboard entertainment including live music andperformances • Onboard allporttaxes andcharges • BONUS Scenic rail journey from GenoatoMilan • BONUS 3Night hotelstaytoexplore thecity of Milan • BONUS Sightseeing tour to Lake Como • BONUS MyCruisespackage savings SiracusaMykonos GREECE ITALY Rome Taranto Santorini Genoa Barcelona Casablanca MOROCCO SantaCruz de Tenerife Arrecife de Lanzarote Malaga Marseille SPAIN Milan FRANCE RA IL BOOKBY 15 SEP22 SAIL DATE 06 OCT23 DEAL CODE MC-112160 LOW DEPOSIT $350*PP $5490* PERPERSON,TWINSHARE FROM VALUED AT $6490* PERPERSON 0800 110179 MYCRUISES CO.NZEXCLUSIVETO AS KUSA BOUTOU RI RR ESIS TI BLEUPGR AD ES |LOW DEPOSIT AVA ILAB LE |O PEN 7DAYS FROM AUCKLAND.*Prices arecorrect attime of publication,arebased ontwin-shareper personandsubject to availabilityandcurrencyﬂuctuations.Prices subject to changewithoutnotice, untilreservationis conﬁrmed. Termsand Conditionsapply. Alow deposit from$350 perperson secures thecruisepackages. Aseconddeposit (partpayment)will be required,withthedateandamounttobeadvisedbyourCruiseExperts attime of booking. Forfulltermsand conditionsvisitMyCruises.co.nz. Theabove mentionedtermsand conditionsaretobereadinconjunctionwiththe termsand conditions publishedatMSCCruises.com.au.Itinerariesare subject to changewith2023deployment.MyCruises providesholiday packagesofferedby Ignite HolidaysPtyLtdandis asubsidiary of Ignite TravelGroup. IATA AccreditationNo.02363546. BOOKTODAY 31 DAYFLY,TOUR &CRUISEDISCOVERY WITH $3000 BONUS VALUE • InternationalﬂightstoRome returning fromDubai 9Day colours of ItalytourfromRome toGenoa • 8Night hotelstays withbreakfastdaily whilst touring • Romecity tour; exploringthe Colosseum, TreviFountainandmore • Experiencethe heartofTuscany and discoverFlorence • Explore thePiazzaSan MarcoandRialto Bridgein Venice VisitVerona,thehome of RomeoandJulietand take in Portoﬁno’s famous multicoloured houses • BONUS 21NightGrand Voyageonboard MSCOpera Onboard diningandentertainment • BONUS 1Night hotelstaytoexplore thecityofDubai TALY GREECE Athens(Piraeus) Milan Lake Como Rhodes Katakolon (Olympia) Siracusa Genoa(Portoﬁno) Sharm El-Sheikh EGYPT Safaga(Luxor) Sokhna Port Jeddah Muscat OMAN AbuDhabi Dubai UAE SuezCanal Transit Rome Siena Florence Mestre Venice VeronaTOUR BOOKBY 15 SEP22 TOUR DATE 21 OCT23 SAIL DATE 29 OCT23 DEAL CODE MC-3636 LOW DEPOSIT $399*PP $5990* PERPERSON,TWINSHARE FROM VALUED AT $6490* PERPERSON

9 Join aFacebook group When cruising on alargeship, it can be impossible to know what attractions or activities are worth your time. Fortunately, there are dozens of private Facebook groups you can join, which are dedicated to certain cruise lines, cruise ships or cruise travel in general Here, people share advice, reviews and opinions as well as questions the wider community are happy to help answer.

Planning your first cruise trip? Wh paboard amassive ship or taking asmall domestic cruise for afew hould know.

5 Pace yourself Cruising may seem like aleisurelyway to travel but some itinerariesare packed from sunrisetosunset. Aftera break from travel, it can be tempting to go on everyexcursion,join everyactivity and soak up as much as you can. If your cruise is ashort 4or5 days, this may be sustainable, but for slightly longer journeys, makesure you take it slow and giveyourself permissiontorelax and tap out of anything.

7 Get to know the crew From sunrise watching spots to worthwhile outings,noone will knowthe cruise ship betterthan its crew. Chattingwith fellow travellers is agreat way to make friends and if they’re diehard cruise fans, they’ll be full of cruise-related tipsand tricks. Butif you’reafter the inside scoop, theporters, waiters, activity leadersand tour guidesare your bestbet.

2 Check the dress code Like any other holiday, not all cruise companies or cruise itinerariesfollow the same dress code. Some liners arefamous for evenings that require black tie or ballgown. Others are packed withactivities you’ll need cargo pants and hikingboots for. Instead of wasting time and money buyingitemsonboard or at port cities, check the ship’s itinerary and recommended packinglist to see what you need. Don’tlove gettingdolled up? Many cruise ships allow passengersto“optout” of fancy dress dinners, so it’s worth asking.

Photos/ Pexels; Unsplash ABOARD

Arriveatyourdeparture port aday early If you choose one point to follow,make it this one. Largely because it’s hardtomake the most of acruise if you aren’t on the ship. Between mountains of lost luggage, cancelled flights and delays, it’s worthwhile giving yourself at least aday or two in the city you’ll depart from. If your journey there goes according to plan, you have aday to properly explore the port city, but if delaysdohappen, you’ll still makethe cruise departure in time.

8 Packa carry-on If you’re boardinga larger ship, your suitcase will likelybesweptaway by porters who will deliverittothe room later in the day. This saves youfrom hauling luggage to your room but also means you’ll be without many itemsfor afew hours. By packing a swimsuit, spare shirt or any other essentials in acarry-on bag, you can make the most of the day without waiting around for your suitcase

6 Getseasick savvy From pills to patches, hypnotherapy tapes to peppermint oil, there is an abundance of optionstochoose from when facedwith seasickness. While somepeople prefer natural remediesinvolvingginger or peppermint and others prefera traditional pill over breakfast, manyseasoned cruisefans can be seen sporting adiscreet patch behind their ear. Commonly sold under the name Scopoderm, these can be purchased at most pharmacies.

3 Take advantage of the handsanitiser The pandemic has encouraged anew standard of cleanliness andsanitation.Aside from crewprotocols likeincreased cleaning schedules, passengers are invited to use hand sanitiserstations regularly (especiallybefore meals) and wearmasks or distance in certain areaslike diningroom buffets.

4 Know what is included Nothingputs adampener on atrip like getting hit with abill for things you thought were included. Every cruise is differentwhen it comes to what itemsrackupadditionalcharges, and it pays (literally) to knowbeforeyou depart. Especiallybecause youmay not be told about a charge until it comes time to disembark and settle the bill. Some cruises include meals but charge for drinks, or includewashing machines but overcharge for laundry powder. Research aheadoftime whatyou must pay extra for, and how much.

10 Switch to aeroplane mode Speaking from experience, even the most tech-savvytraveller can be caughtout by overseas cellphone charges, especially when moving between countries.This becomes even more important when cruising, as international waters often carry unbelievably expensive chargesfor calls, texts and internet browsing. Phonecompanies and cruise linesdo offer cruise-specific plans but we recommend simplyputting yourphone on aeroplanemode and using the ship’sfree Wi-Fitotext, call and go online

12 | Tuesday, September 6, 2022 travel

travel Tuesday,September6,2022 | 13

Curious about the latter,I joineda tour to the Gothic German cityofLubeck —home of the famed Lubeck marzipan —and enthusiastically absorbed historic trivia from our affable, informative and —for maximum entertainmentvalue —costumed guide as we pottered about the city’s cobbledstreets.

OCEANIA CRUISES

The enrichment philosophy is also evidentinthe comprehensive selectionof shore excursions, with active biking and kayaking both on offer, plus exclusive, smallgroup optionsand Select Tours offering special or uniqueexperiences.

A12-night London to Copenhagen sailingon Marinawith Oceania Cruises is priced from $5410pp. Departs July 11, 2023,from Southampton including calls at Stockholm, Helsinki, Copenhagen, Visby and Riga in Latvia. oceaniacruises.com

—Telegraph Group Ltd

Oceania also offers what is termed the OLife Series, aselection of lectures, quizzes andguestspeaker sessions —usually themed to complement the voyage so, in this case, addressing such topics as the Vikings andNorse gods

The centrepiece on board Marina is agrand stairwaybyFrench crystal designers Lalique; below, the enrichmentprogrammeteaches guests how to recreatedishes from onboard restaurant Red Ginger Photos/ Supplied

SaraMacefield finds avoyage allaboutreju cells, swelling your skillsetand cultivatingy

14 | Tuesday, September 6, 2022 travel Cruising: Europe »

Curious shore excursions

A sonany cruise worth its salt, one of thegreatestpleasures aboard Oceania Cruises’ ship Marina is simply soaking up the good life. In fact, it is more classy private club than cruise ship —with an air of sophisticated elegance running frombow to stern,whetheritisthe neon-pinkCasinoBar dotted with Swarovski-studdedbar stools, the eye-catching artwork,the plush Balinese day beds by the pool, the nine gourmetrestaurants, or the ship’sglitzy centrepiece: agrand stairway by French crystaldesigners Lalique.Suffice to say, you could very easily spend the entire 12-nightBaltic sailing simply eating, drinking andreclining But thisisacruise with adifference. The latest in araft of so-called“enrichment cruises”, this voyage isn’t just about relaxation —it’s about coming back improved: your skillset swelled, your grey cells rejuvenated, your talents cultivated. But mightn’t it all feel abit too much like hard work? Keen-but-green Picassos Eager to put this ethos to the test, Isoon found myselfsurrounded by aglorious mess, asea of colour, with rainbow-hued paints dripping wildly from my artist’s canvas —which Ihad transformed into aswirling vortexofvivid turquoise shades —asour teacher, on-board artist-in-residenceAndre,reassured his class of 12 keen-but-green budding Picassos.“You’re doing just fine,”hesaid encouragingly as he dashed between us offering creativesupport. We were sittingaround avast table strewn with paint bottles, brushes and other artistic accoutrements duringa complimentary painting classinthe purpose built Artist Loft on Marina— oneofonly two such studios on anymainstream cruiseship; theotherofwhich is on Marina’s sister, Riviera. The temptationtosplurge and squirtevery one of the colours was irresistible and my abstract creation soontook on alife of its own, as Itipped the canvas this way and that, watchingthe paints meld and floodwith childlike glee. Iwas utterly absorbed, and very sorry when our session cametoanend and the canvasseswere put asidetodry. My efforts may have been enough to makeOld Masters weep, but Isoon had more classes booked in, determined to brushuponmytechnique.

Learning in luxury

Afirst glance at the list of ingredients was rather daunting, but withNoelle’s clear, expert tutelage, we were soon exuberantly cooking up astorm (confidence aided by the crisp glass of rose´includedinthe $170pp charge), and by the closeofour two-hour class, Ihad not only whipped up aglorious feast but learnedsome handy tips too But the enrichment options don’t end with hobby enhancing.

But it was the marvellous 5km kayaking trip along the breathtakingly tranquil Minija River, near Klaipeda in Lithuania, that really left me buzzing.Lightly dampand utterly exhilarated, Iwas planning my nextouting on the water from the momentI stepped out of the kayak,enriched in mind, bodyand soul —and not the slightest bit like hard work, afterall.

Culinary goddessincoming But time enough for that later —first, it was on to the culinary centre, just afew paces from the Artist Loft, to awakenmylatentculinary goddess. Under the watchful eye of chefNoelle, the classrecreated well-loveddishes from Marina’s popular Asian fusionrestaurant, Red Ginger —myfavourite —includingits signature miso-glazed sea bass and lobster padThai (Oceania has areputationasthe “foodie’s cruise line”, and it is certainlydeserved).

Forfulltermsandconditionspleasegotowww.LuxuryEscapes.comorcalltheLuxuryEscapesinformationlineon0800006057.Flightsarenotincluded.Imagesareforillustrativepurposesonly.Informationcorrectattimeofprint. Surchargesapply,checkwebsiteforfulldetails. YOUR HANDPICKEDINCLUSIONS: • 15nightsofdeluxeaccommodation, includingthe PrincesaPlazaMadridand Sol Torremolinos –Don Pabloonthe CostaDel Sol • Dailybreakfastandsevendinners, includinganauthentictapas dinnerinMadrid • ExploreMadrid’smust-seesights, includingthePuertadelSol,PlazaMayor andthe RoyalPalace • Visit alocalalmazara(oilmill) in Ronda andsamplelocally-producedoliveoil • Enjoyanexhilaratingflamenco show withdinner inGranada • WanderMarrakech’sbustlingstreets andvisitthefamedJemaael-Fnamain squareand KoutoubiaMosque • GuidedtoursofCórdoba,Seville, Casablanca, Rabat, Fesand Toledo • Roundtripairporttransfers, expertguidesandsightseeingandentrancefees VisittheimposingSeville Cathedral,strollthebeachesof CostadelSol, savour Madridandadmirethe exoticbeautyofCasablancaandMarrakech. Availablefor alimitedtimeonly SPAIN &MOROCCO 16 DAYS 0800006 057 SCANTOSEEOFFER 7 DAYCHANGEOFMINDREFUNDGUARANTEE SMALL GROUP TOUR Handpickedaccommodation | Guidedcity tours | Flamenco show Perperson(twin room) Valuedup to $4,098 $3,079 FROM DEPARTURESAVAILABLEUNTIL 20 OCT2023 SECURETHISESCAPEWITH A20%DEPOSITAND PAYTHERESTLATER travel Tuesday,September6,2022 | 15

Great meals in the main dining room include small,sweet Italianmussels, grilledbream, a lobstertail and steak,and tiramisu. Free in-room dining is atreat we don’t indulge in often enough.

Neil Porten outsidethe headquarters of Fincantieri, shipbuilderofMS Koningsdam,in Trieste, Italy; dining room on theMS Koningsdam;below Veranda stateroom5157 aboard the cruiseship.

To drink: there are around 120 whiskies, bourbons andryes to try at Notesonthe Plaza Deck; happy hour at Billboard Onboard(second

The gymisnearby, where you can pound the treadmills whilelooking outover the bow.

The additional-cost restaurants provetobe good value. At Rudi’sSel de Mer theypresenttousa whole fresh fish —sea bass in my case —before cooking it perfectly. Under the gold domes and mood lighting in Pinnacle Grill, Idevour acrab-cakes appetiserand abeef tenderloin steak with dumplings.

Thisdeck also has what became one of our favourite relaxationspots onboard, the Crow’s Nest and Explorationscafe. Thispanoramic lounge at the front of the shiphas abar, espresso coffee, games and books and dozensofloveseats, sofas and armchairsfor maximum comfort while watching, for example, the sun set behind the Catania skyline andthe hazy slopesofMtEtna. Ourlast stop on the tour is theLido Balcony, overlooking the Lido pool and bar on the deckbelow.This split-level space with retractable roof (unnecessary thistrip —did Imention the heatwave?) is theshrineofthe sun worshippersand their onlookers —a family-friendly chill-out plaza where Aquaman swims on the movie screenand tanned Italians loll poolside There’s much more to see,but not today:just after 5pm, withwindsurfers to the south of us, and atrio of north-bound cargo ships sailing by, the Koningsdam casts off and we head inside to get ready for dinner Dinner. Breakfast. Lunch. Dinner. Breakfast …Food and cruising are as inseparable and the food is endless, multifarious anddelicious. Presentation and service are top-notch.

Acruise ship is the perfect haven in aMediterranean heatwave,writes Neil Porten

Lido Market is the go-to for aconstantly changing buffetofcuisines, cooked and served to you by patient, friendly staff.

Photos/ NeilPorten,Holland AmericaLine

Not far away, up on Deck 12, is The Retreat, apay-extrasanctuary of covered cabanas and loungers.

Cruising: Europe

The famous walled town is the first port of call on aHolland America round-trip voyage from Rome, taking in highlightsinthe Adriatic Sea, as well as Sicily, Maltaand Naples on the return leg. We’re sailing in aheatwave but the ship I’m on, Koningsdam, Holland America Line’s 99,500-ton,297m-long Pinnacle-classship launchedin2016, is the perfect vessel to coolly and calmly transportusunder cloudless Mediterranean skies.(Koningsdam now sails in the Caribbean and Alaska, but sister Pinnacle Ship, NieuwStatendam,runs similar routes in Europe). Rome’s sea port is Civitavecchia,80km north of theEternal City,and Koningsdam is waiting there at thelongconcrete pier,14decksabove the waterline; navy-blue hull, orange-topped lifeboats, white superstructure, dark-tinted windows and glass balconies. Security procedures, check-inand boarding are quick and easy; we are in our stateroom, bags already deliveredwithin half an hour. Veranda stateroom 5157, starboard midship, overlooks lifeboats17, 19 and 21 and the Promenade on Deck3 The decor is cream,with brushed bronze cornices andbeech veneer —smoothing and restful. There’s atwo-seater sofa,desk,chair, lighted mirror, plenty of power outlets,bedside charging ports, and ample storage. The TV is a portaltoon-demandmovies, music and shows, restaurant menus, shipand trip information,live forward andaft cameras. In the tiled bathroom, the showerstall is large, and the shower itself is full-strength and simple to use. In the coming days,the Elemis toiletries perform admirably during the heatwave. And thelong, firmbed, crisp sheets, long and shortpillow combo, blackoutcurtains, doubleglazing and ruthlessly efficientair-concreate a haven for sleeping at any time of the day or night The floor-level sensor light is anice touch, proving handy for tripless night-time trips to the bathroom The few hoursbefore we sail is the perfect opportunity to explore our home for thenexttwo weeks. Music inspiresthe decor onboard. Harps, adouble crown in chrome, encircles the threedeck atrium. The B.B. King’s Blues Club/Lincoln Centre Stageisa cocoon of varnished wood curved like acello. Much of the US$4million worth of art is musicallyinspired. Each space is acareful composition of deep carpet, leather chairs and polished surfaces. Undoubtedly Koningsdam is abig ship: you can’t easily hide2650 passengers, 1036 crew and 1331 staterooms. But clever designmeansyou rarely feel you are walking acity block to get from the aft dining roomtothe fitness centreatthe bow. Whenyou take what feels like the most naturalpath, your route curves past abar, or alounge or amusic venue, sometimes around acorner, or through glass doors In the corridors,cornerslimit the distance you can see aheadtotens, rather than hundreds of metres. Our self-guided tour beginswith hairdresser Ante, from Split, whotempts us with the luxuries of the Greenhouse Spa, a pampering paradise of saunas,thermal suites, hydrotherapy pool, andheated ceramic loungers.

cool underpressure

16 | Tuesday, September 6, 2022 travel

he last timeIsaw Croatia from a shipwas in the middle of the South Pacific Ocean; in the warm 3am darkness, Croatia was there, huge andbright. That encounter lasted alittle more than 90 minutes as the Vatreni (“FieryOnes”) succumbedtoFrancein the Fifa World Cupfinal, watched by me and a couple of dozen football fans on the ship’s giant poolside video screen. Now, Croatia is rightthere in frontofmeagain, huge and bright, and if Ilean out over the railing of the cruise ship, Ican almost touch the fiery terracotta tiles on theroofsofDubrovnik.

InCorfu,fivecruiseshipsareinport:aperfect opportunityfor agameofWhoseShipisBest? Thereisliterallylipstickona shiponthe AIDAblu,andalso athree-deck-highpairofcomehithereyes,oneoneithersideofthebow.But I’mnotseducedbythesparklingwhiteGerman siren,northeItalian,northeNorwegian. Thisfarintothevoyage myattachmentto HollandAmericaandherblue-hulledstateliness iscomplete. Italy,Croatia,Montenegro,Greece,Malta.It is amagicalodyssey,followingroutespliedby theancients:Phoenicians,Greeks,Venetians. Finally,allroads —andthisship’scourse —lead backtoRome.Acrosscalmseasandunderblue skiesKoningsdamhasreturnedus,reluctantly, toreality.

travel Tuesday,September 6,2022 | 17

To bookvisitcunard.com, call 0800543431or contactyourtravelagent. *Guestspeakersareconfirmedtodate,butmaychangeatCunard’sdiscretionduetounforeseencircumstances. We arecurrentlyassessingenhancedhealthandsafetyprotocolsinlightofCovid-19andlookingathowthesemayaffectyourvoyage.Ouractualcruiseofferingsmayvaryfromthedescriptions providedandimagesdisplayedthroughoutthewebsite. To bereadinconjunctionwiththe TermsandConditionsatcunard.com/en-au/legalwhichpassengerswillbeboundby.CarnivalplctradingasCunardABN23107998443. Cunard’sﬁrstdedicatedculinarycruiseon boardtheluxurious QueenElizabethwill celebrateAustralia’suniquefood and wine,andwill feature someofAustralia’sculinary royalty. ExclusivedishescreatedbytalentedAustralian food iconswill make thisanunmissableexperiencefor all food enthusiasts. GreatAustralian Culinary Voyage Sydney Melbourne Burnie GreatAustralianCulinary Voyage 5nights 28Jan -2Feb2023 Q305 Formoreinformationand to viewall fares, visitcunard.com/Q305 Joinourspecialguestson board. MattMoran -HeadlineChef MarkOlive -IndigenousChefDarrenPurchese -PastryChef Scan hereformore information Checklist HOLLAND AMERICA DETAILS AvarietyofRome departuresareonofferon HollandAmerica’sNieuw Statendam.Westerdam andNoordamwillbe sailinginAustraliaandNZ laterthisyear. hollandamerica.com Fromleft: Theterracotta rooftopsofDubrovnik, Croatia;thecruiseshipMS Koningsdam;MS KoningsdaminportatSplit, Croatia. Photos /NeilPorten, HollandAmericaLine drinkonlyUS$2)seguesperfectlyintothe eveningtriviaquiz. Theshipis amarvel, adestinationofitself. Ihaven’tmentionedtheoutdoorspacessuchas theadults-onlySeaViewPool &Bar,the PromenadeonDeck3,whichgetsyoualltheway aroundtheshipandsoclosetothedeepbluesea, orthejoggingtrackandsportscourttopside. I’veonlytouchedontheactivitiessuchas cookingdemos,workshops,theAsktheCaptain sessionwithwryskipperWernerTimmers, themahjong,bridge,andpickleballmeet-ups; theshoretourlecturesandtheballroom dancinghour. AnditwouldberemisstoleaveouttheMusic Walkentertainment:BillboardOnboard’s duellingpianists,theB.B.King’sBluesPlayers, theresidentbandintheRollingStoneRock Room,thefunandstylishclassicalmusiciansat LincolnCentreStage. It’salmostincidentalthatwehavenineports ofcallduringthevoyage.But,here Ipresenta highlightsreel:atriumvirateofItalianvolcanoes —Catania’sMtEtna,Naples’Vesuviusand Stromboli;perfectpinksunsetsinDubrovnik andafterdepartingCorfu;Koningsdamasa smallthumbnailblobinthevastsparkling KvarnerBayasourcoachclimbs thecoastalroad fromRijeka;sailingintoGrandHarbourin Valletta,Malta,thefullearlysunwarmingthe butter-yellowstoneofthefortressbattlements.

18 | Tuesday, September 6, 2022 travel BeautifulOia townonSantoriniisland,Greece We wereborn here. Welcome to our home, the Mediterranean Sea–the scents, the ﬂavours, the skyand the wonders underneath it. We have the perfect ships to reach every special corner in 13 countries. Be our guest, and get closer to the authentic beauty of the Mediterranean. YOUR DOOR-TO-DOOR JOURNEY INCLUDES: •NEW Privateexecutive transfers(betweenhome andairport) •Internationalroundtrip ﬂights (orair credit) •BusinessClass upgrades at reducedrates •Transfers,luggagehandling andcitycentreshuttle •Multiplerestaurants servingdiverse cuisineand an in-suite 24-hourdiningservice includingcaviar •Premium beverages in-suite andthroughout theship •Butlerservice in everysuite category •Onboard gratuities •Unlimited Wi-Fi •Shore excursions

travel Tuesday,September6,2022 | 19 THISIS OURHOME, OURSEA. ENJOYIT. LETUSTAKEYOU CLOSER TO THEAUTHENTIC BEAUTY OF THEMEDITERRANEAN VISITSILVERSEA.COM,CALL1300306 872 ORSEEYOURTRAVELPROFESSIONAL. *Termsand Conditions:Door-to-DoorAll-Inclusivefareswillincrease 1December2022ifnotprior.Door-to-DoorAll-Inclusive15% reducedand refundabledepositofferwillbeappliedtoallvoyagesforbookingsdone until30November2022. Faresanditinerariesvarybysaildate.Offersarevalidfornewindividualbookingsmadeduringpromotionalperiodandmaybewithdrawnatanytimewithoutnotice. Promotionalairofferis onlyavailabletotheﬁrstandsecondfull-fare guestsin asuite. ValidforselectgatewaystoguestsfromAustraliaonly.Silverseareservestherighttoselecttheaircarrier,routing anddepartureairportfrom eachgateway city.Deviationstoairtraveldatesaccepted;surchargesmayapply.Allfares,savings,offers,itineraries,andprogramsaresubjecttochangewithoutnotice. Voyagehighlights, excursions,andenrichmentprogramsare subjecttochangeand/orcancellationwithoutpriornotice.Allinformationcontainedhereinisaccurateandineffectasof26August2022.Silverseareservestherighttocorrectanyerrorsandomissionsandtocancel anyofferedproductorserviceintheevent of sucherrororomission. Additional restrictions mayapply.Forcompletetermsandconditionsandpromotionalperioddatesvisitsilversea.com DOOR-TO-DOOR ALL-INCLUSIVE with 15%REDUCEDAND REFUNDABLEDEPOSIT* SCAN TODISCOVER SILVERSEA

At nearly 300m long and towering 16 floors, you will easily find the spacethat suits you. This was acruise with no paying guests, ratherithad onboard 2500 travelindustry reps, suppliers and journalists, so was notatthe 3099 guestcapacity. But NCL promises when it’s full, Prima has far more opendeck spacefor guests than its rivals. It also has ahigher crew to guest ratio. TheHaven is Prima’s exclusive and walledoff residences, “a ship within aship” concept over eight decksonthe rear third of the vessel, where there are roomsofupto195sqm.

Our balcony stateroom on deck 11 near the bow was adelightful refuge featuring art and neutral tones. It’s bit past midway up the scale of 13 classesof accommodation, 21sq mwith floor-to-ceiling doors leading to a6sq mbalcony, veryclever storage,a roomy shower, comfortablequeen bed and acouch. We had asmall fridgeand withthe ship being brandnew there are numerous USB and charging sockets all aroundthe room. The balcony was a private haven

NORWEGIAN PRIMA

20 | Tuesday, September 6, 2022 travel Cruising: Europe »

Continuedonp22

The shipisbilled as groundbreaking and you don’t have to be on board longto agree. It has the essential theme-park-atsea features —including athree-level gokart trackfor families where you can hit 50km/h —but with plenty of refined and subtle touches.

It’s original. From the signature graffiti art stretching down its hull, to asculpture garden displaying some of the ship’s 4000 artworkscurated by 350 artists and worthabout $8m,this is a standoutmass-market ship. NCL deliberately avoidedthe “mega is better” approachtothe size of the ship, instead investing in innovation and styling. The use of lighting, materials and textures whereveryou look are interesting.You’re constantly sayingto yourself “they didn’t need to do that”, but for the aesthetic,you’re pleased theydid.

Guests attendingNorwegian Prima’s Christening celebration weretreated to show-stopping musical and dance performances; below, the ship Photos /Supplied

NCL’s Norwegian Prima is the world’s newest cruise ship, billedasagame-changer forthe industry which is steamingback strongly aroundthe world. Grant Bradley was aboardthe ship last month on an eight-daychristeningcruise fromIceland. Here’s whatheliked.

A10-day cruise fromIceland and Norway to London on Norwegian PrimainSeptember 2024 starts from $3805pp (based on inside cabin) and includes abeverage package, specialty dining package, Wi-Fi, shoreexcursion credit and third and fourth guests at areduced rate. ncl.com

The Italian-built ship is huge but not overwhelming. Finding your way around is easy enough, helpedby touch screensatthe many elevators. Look downatthe carpetand you’ll see arrows pointingtothe frontofthe ship. The app worked like acharm for booking excursions, but do getfamiliar with it before you sail, there’s alot to unpack. The tech is cutting edge, from atouch screentoleave instructions to housekeepingstafftogood mid-Ocean Wi-Fi. Bridge-camplayed through the big wall-mounted TV in our room

The ship is a$1.4 billionstatement. Weighing in at more than 142,000 tonnes, it’s tellingthe world that thecruise industryisback.Cruisinghas recovered strongly around theworldduring the past 18 months and returns to New Zealand this summer. To board Prima in Reykjavik(whichhas had more than 200 cruise ship visits this summer), crew and passengers must be vaccinated and there’s an extensive health questionnaire, but as in most of the rest of the world,there are few masksseen andtravel is as fun as it always was.

Prima was the first major shipto be christened in Reykjavik —a brave move consideringthe weather in the northernmost northerly capital cityonthe edge of the Arctic Circle. It rarelygets three fine days in arow in late summer, but we did in what is an otherworldly bucket list destination. The ship’s godmother, Katy Perry, was thereto christen the ship and beltedout hits in a standout show before the ship left port, but guests were treated to an edgier, local performer the night before, Briet,atthe striking Harpa cultural venue on Reykjavik’s waterfront.

travel Tuesday,September6,2022 | 21 Spain Intensive Azamara Journey® Sail Date:25th March2023 Embark:Lisbon, Portugal -Debark: Barcelona, Spain 9NIGHTS 1LATENIGHT7PORTS 33OVERNIGHTSOVERNIGHTS Gems Of TheMed Azamara OnwardSM Sail Date: 20thJuly2023 Embark: Venice, Italy -Debark: Istanbul, Turkey 11 NIGHTS 9PORTS ChangeThe WayYou Sea

Main: PrimaSpeedway, the420m long race carttrack on board; Katy Perry performsatthe ship's christeningceremony in Reykjavik; asuite on board Norwegian Prima. Photos /Supplied

Continued from p20 7 There are30lounge and dining venues. You canhappily chow downwithout paying any extra at five sprawling venues (Hudson’s was ourfavourite with splendid table service). The speciality dining venues drew from countries around the world in distinctive spaces. Portionsizes were sensible and manypeople signedupfor a beverage packagefor the duration of the cruise. There’s touch-screen orderingatthe two food halls but otherwise the ever-obliging wait staff are on hand.There’s apalpable sense staff are delighted to see you, with cruisingreturning to normal aftermany of them were off work for ayear of more.

Price isRight where audience participationis welcome.

On Prima, Summer: TheDonna Summer Musical,isa Tony-awarded show that traces the Queen of Disco’s life. Its cast belted out the disco classics. There are live bandsatother venues, the requisite casino (with asmoking section) and interactivegameshows,includingthe

The more traditionalrecreation facilities were excellent. The spacious Pulse Fitness Centre on deck 16 has aviewsimilar to whatthe captainhas, there are three pools, includingtwo infinity pools, four hot tubs and akids’aqua park. You can walk aroundthe outside of the ship on Ocean Boulevard, a wonderfulway to get afeel for the Prima and clockup thekilometres.There’s 4100sq mofopen space, some fantasticoutdoor venues and you’ll clockuparound 970 stepsonyour walk. If you need pampering after that, the Mandara Spa(which you pay to enter) offersa full suite of treatments and hasa twolevel atrium style pool area with awaterfall.

9 Prima Speedway, the 420m long race cart track is atrue thrill ride once you get the hang of it. You could be on land, untilyou sneak aglance to see the oceanracing by. One thrill Ihave still to enjoy is The Drop, billedasthe world’s first free-falldry slide to be offered by acruise line, a 10-deck plunge reaching more g-forces than an accelerating Formula 1car. There’s amultitude of other experiences including the Galaxy Pavilion with 14 hyper-immersive simulators. There weren’t manychildren on our christeningcruise so it was hardtojudge whatqueues would be like on regular voyage.

22 | Tuesday, September 6, 2022 travel

18 AWA RD-WINNINGSHIPS | 300 + DESTINATIONS WO RL DW IDE BOOK TODAYAT NCL.COM | CALL 0800969 283 | OR CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL AGENT Norwegian Viva NEWPRIMA-CLASSSHIPS CRUISINGEUROPEFROM2022 12-DAY AUSTRALIA&NEWZEALAND: MELBOURNE, WELLINGTON& AUCKLANDFROM SYDNEY NORWEGIANSPIRIT I22DEC2022, 8FEB &4MAR2023 7-DAY ALASKA: GLACIERBAY, SKAGWAY&JUNEAU FROMSEATTLE NORWEGIANENCORE IMAY OCT2023, APR OCT2024 INSIDE FROM: $2,185PP* BALCONY FROM: $3,332 PP* INSIDE FROM: $3,486 PP* BALCONY FROM: $5,363 PP* INSIDE FROM: $3,649 PP* BALCONY FROM: $7,884 PP* 7-DAY GREEKISLES: SANTORINI, MYKONOS &RHODES FROM ATHENS (PIRAEUS) NORWEGIAN JADE IMAY –OCT 2023 INSIDE FROM: $2,149 PP BALCONY FROM: $3,662 PP 7-DAY HAWAI‘I:INTER-ISLAND FROMHONOLULU PRIDE OFAMERICA DEPARTSEVERY SATURDAY, YEAR-ROUND ONLYNCLVISITS 4ISLANDS ALL-NEWSHIPDESIGNEDFORADULTCRUISERS Pricebasedon14MaPricebasedon14January2023sailing. y2023sailing. Pricebasedon 4March2023sailing. Pricebasedon15October2023sailing. 9-DAY GREEKISLES: SANTORINI,MYKONOS &CROATIA FROMVENICE(TRIESTE) NORWEGIANVIVA IMAY, JUL,AUG &OCT 2024 INSIDE FROM: $3,333 PP BALCONY FROM: $4,788 PP Pricebasedon10October2024sailing. Pricebasedon23September2023sailing. 10-DAY GREEKISLES &ITALY: SANTORINI, ATHENS &FLORENCEFROMROME(CIVITAVECCHIA) NORWEGIANBREAKAWAY I6 MAY, 15JUL &23SEP2023 INSIDE FROM: $2,910PP BALCONY FROM: $4,801PP ALL-NEWPRIMA-CLASSSHIP FLEXIBLECANCELLATIONPOLICY•SYDNEY-BASEDRESERVATIONSTEAM WORLD’SLEADINGCRUISELINE- WORLDTRAVEL AWARDS 6YEARSIN AROW #L VECRUISE *Pricecoversthecruiseonlyfortheleastexpensiveinside stateroomasstated,isperpersonbasedontwinshare,inclusiveoffuelcosts(subjecttochange).Price,itineraryandoffersarecorrectasat30August2022andaresubjecttochange,availabilityandwithdrawal.Pricedoesnot coverallproductsandserviceofferingsthatrelatetothecruise.^Upto40%OffCruises:Discountisvalidonallopenfor salesailingsincludingSailawaycategories.Discountwillvarydependingonsailyearanddestination.Offerisapplicableto allguestsinthestateroomandsinglespaying 200%.+Receive 5FreeOffers:ShoreexcursioncreditisUS$50perexcursion &portandisapplicableto1stguestinthestateroom.3rdand4thguestssailat areducedrateonlyvalidonselecteddates.SailawaycategoriesreceiveUS$50shoreexcursioncreditofferonly.**Double yourmoneywithCruiseFirst:pay$250andreceive aCruiseFirstcertiﬁcatevaluedat$500appliedtoyourNorwegianCruiseLineLatitudesaccount. Validforsailings 6daysorlongerandguest(s)mustsailwithin 3yearsoforiginalcertiﬁcatepurchasedate. Voyagedatemustbemorethan 120daysfromoriginalpurchasedate.CruiseFirstcertiﬁcate(s)arenon-refundableandmustbeappliedinfullonthereservation.Offersarevaliduntil15September2022.Offersarenon-transferable,havenomonetary valueandarevalidfornewbookingsonly.Offersaresubjecttochange orwithdrawalatanytimeandcombinabilitywithotherpromotionaloffersis subjecttochange.Otherrestrictionsmayapply.Forfulltermsand conditionsvisitncl.com.©2022NCLCorporationLtd.NCLAustraliaPty.Ltd.ABN80607578781.Ships Registry:BahamasandUSA. travel Tuesday,September6,2022 | 23

Action?Sloth?What’s aSailor to choose? A bit of both,only to fall, dissatisfied, between twotowel-covered loungers? I’m guessing most of my fellow voyagers plotted the same course as me: In Richard Branson We Trust. If the leisure-business billionaire believes vacationers want to party hardand pamper themselves at the same time, who are we to argue?

R azzle dazzle: the name given to theblack-and-white disruptive patterning painted on ships in World War Iand II designed to confuse the enemyaboutthe ships’ speed, distance and heading. On board Virgin Voyages’ new fleet of Lady Class vessels, it’s not only the name of one of thecruise line’s signature restaurants but also away to view the sailing experience: acontrast of thelight and the dark; an angel on one shouldera devil on the other Iwas aboardValiant LadyinJuly for aweeklong cruise of the northern Mediterranean out of Barcelona. Under ablazingsummer sun,the light and thedark were in sharp relief. But there’s subtlety andsophistication too on this new ship, much-needed shade —and colour to excite,orsoothe, all the senses. Virgin Voyages call their guestsSailors, a nod to the expectation of active participation. It didn’t take this sailor long, after thestreamlined embarkation process, to get up to speed with the Virgin vibe:a fully amped rock operastyle musicalsafetyvideo,followedbyaninyour-own-timemuster station check-ininthe cool Mediterranean cabana-style hangout of The Dock House. Striding around the Runway jogging track after the muster, closer to heaven than the Barcelona wharf17decksbelow,I glimpsed the Aquatic Club’s mainpool two decks down, where every shape of humanwas bastingin thesun. Aglowing runner breezed past, ponytail bobbing, fitness tracker flashing.

Norcan Iargue withthe decision to include gratuities, Wi-Fi, basic beverages,all the restaurants, and group fitnessclasses in the fare. It’s simple, civilised. Ididn’trealise quite howcivilised an adults-only cruise was either until the mere presenceofchildren at my hotel post-cruise —including one brat who pushed theelevatorbutton on every floor —left me unreasonably annoyed C ivilisation and technology go handin hand,effortlessly so on board. Payment for drinks and services and access to your cabin is through aslenderbracelet, which senseswhen you are approaching yourroom andactivates the air-conand lighting. You controlthe TV, curtains and lighting, and order housekeepingorroom service froma tablet. OurSea Terrace cabin felt spacious with ample storage. The most intriguing tech is the king bed —which easilyconvertstoa sofa.

24 | Tuesday, September 6, 2022 travel Cruising: Europe » adultsno rest hould rites LIGHTAND DARK The wellbeing pool and hottubs Photos/ Supplied

The thinking is that Sailors canentertain without visitors havingtosprawl on the bed However popular that becomes, the bed itself was one of the most comfortableI’ve slept in.

Sleepingonthe balcony,oratleast napping, is definitely an option too.The scarlet-red hammock, easy to hook out of the way and just as easy to climb into, is ageniusaddition. They are handwoven by womeninrural Thailand andaspartofVirgin’s social responsibility programme, you can buy one to take home. Sustainability and social responsibility extend to aban on single-useplastic, carbon emissions offsettingand reducing waste by making all foodtoorder. Food, that all-important cruise considera tion. On Valiant Lady, theoptions arevast, and the quality —helpedperhaps by each restauranthaving its own kitchenrather than an enormous communal one —was top-notch.

The first bar opens at 7am: Gym &Tonic by the well-being pool offers fresh juices within view of those working out in the B-Complex gym, whereSailors againmust makea choicebetween dark and light.

travel Tuesday, September 6, 2022 | 25

On thefirst night: Untitled DanceShowPartyThing— fluoro yellow and blue boilersuited dancers, tickertape bombs, neon,a pinkwhale, multimedia sound andfury; the show segued into, well, adance party Duel Reality makes the audience choose Team RedorTeam Blue in acircus showdown of amazingartistry andbravura.

Sleepingonyourbalcony is alsoanoption

Checklist VIRGIN VOYAGES

Valiant Lady’s sister ship Resilient Lady, the newest vessel in Virgin Voyages four-shipfleet, will cruise New Zealand and Australia from December 2023 to March 2024. With itineraries of two to 14 nights, New Zealand destinations will include Picton, Napier, Tauranga, Auckland, Christchurch and Dunedin.Australian itineraries include stops at Hobart and Burnie,along with Sydney. For more information, go to virginvoyages.com

Ifone space encapsulates the light and dark dichotomy it is The Manor nightclub. Named after Branson’s first recording studio, this two-storey, three-barclub could be afavoured hangout of Darth Vader’s henchmen,just off the docking bay of the Death Star —scaffold railings, dark recesses, neon rimmed rectangular portals and upside-down Daleksonthe ceiling, just to confusethe scifi geeks. Here, we saw an early-evening variety show,adragact with audienceparticipation and swingingcoconuts (!) andboogied late duringthe Studio 72 disco.But to enter or leave this den, you must firstbeirradiated, purified in apassage of cascadingmirroredlight. Phew! Finally, some other highlights of this weeklong invitationtoindulge; first,the action: Signature eventScarletNight:processional entertainmentending at the Aquatic Clubwith an inflatable octopus, dancing in the shallows, bombing in thepool and chest-throbbing beats.

Left: Razzle Dazzle, the vegetarian-forward (and omnivore friendly)restaurant; theship’sdancers performing.

Burn+Bike on the portside is ablack tunnel of cardio machines promisingpain for gain Whereas brightdecor on thestarboard side offersstrength and flexibility, andperhaps even enlightenment, in Build+Balance. Take outyour frustrations on the punchbagatthe Athletic Club, or align your chakraswith sun worshippers’ yoga high up on The Perch At the other end of the burning candle,ValiantLady offers up-all-nightentertainment with energy,muscle and glam, with twovenues especially making it happen. The Red Room’s versatility, with a number of tiered seatingconfigurations and amovable stage, showcases Virgin’s grown-up but fun perform ances.

ItalianrestaurantExtra Virgin, all terracotta tiles, teal and trattorial elegance, served delicious carpaccio, arich oxtail agnolotti and made awhole show of dessert, deliveringmyaffogato from acart laden with toppings of sambuca foam, pinenuts,tiny meringues and almonds. Shouldour enthusiastic server Andreahave been so excited to tell us affogato means “drowned”? We ate three timesatWake, swanning down the staircasetoenjoy tenderfilet mignon, delicate salt-crusted dorado and exceptional espresso, cocoonedinbooths of copperand cream. To enter the crushed-velvet den of Mexican eatery Pink Agave onemustfirst pass through ablinkingly brighttunnel of light globes.Your rewardonthe dark side is high-class foodof the street,including piquant esquites,smoky roastedduck and fiendishly sweet chocolate tamales. For the record, the bar is aperfect spot for around of tequila —ormyfavourite, mezcal —shots beforehitting the clubs in Ibiza Shoju drinking games are not compulsory at Korea BBQGunbae but are agreat way to cement friendships, or make new ones, over asizzlinghotplate. While at TestKitchen— all glass, chromeand lab-coatedservers chefs challenge themselves to create atasting menu, matchedwith wines or cocktails, from just ahandful of ingredients. The multi-station Galleyisthe go-to for any meal, including takeout options.I licked an icecream aday at the gelato cart conveniently near the pizza shop on Deck 7. The angelon my shoulder whispered about the poke bowls andsaladsatthe outdoor Sun ClubonDeck 16. Razzle Dazzle promises vege-focused food anddelivered awonderful gazpacho, sweet squash ravioli and amagnificent purple roastedheirloom cauliflower for dinner. But likea confused enemyfleet, Iwas misdirected to the “naughty” menu: the Grasshopper cocktail comes with areal grasshopper (I was relieved to see the Goldfish cocktail was NOT accompanied by areal goldfish), there’s fried chicken, and the breakfast serverwas very happy to tell me the full English comes with black pudding Inevitably, Ichose to believe the little devil, whoconvinced me all the foodonboard belonged in the light. Hardertobelieve is the wellbeingbenefits of drinking.But Champagnebar Sip is so chic, andthe standard of mixology on boardsohigh, anything seemspossible.

Vicariouspleasure/pain watching Sailors receivetheir indelible souvenirs at Squid Ink, the only tattoo parlour on acruise ship. Flicking through classic albums andreliving teenage record-shopmemories via the turntables andheadphones at Voyage Viny. And now the sloth: The luxury and sheer relaxation of the thermal suite at Redemption Spa —pink salt room,black steam room,timbered sauna, heated marble hammam benches. Hanging out on the navy loungers at The Dock, the ship’s wake mesmerising in the summer haze Giving in to the effortless calm shownby everycrew member who served me with such grace. In thesong from the musical Chicago,defence lawyer Billy Flynn sings: Give ‘em the old Razzle Dazzle, Razzle dazzle‘em. Give ‘em ashow that’s so splendiferous… And they’ll beg you for more! More is more on aVirginVoyage: more turnedon, more switched off; moreManor raves,more hammock snoozes; full steam ahead, Sailor,ifyou like it that way; hot tubs and mojitos if youdon’t —atyour pleasure,your Ladyship

However, bookingonboard is oftenmore pricey than organising your own adventure. Excursions run by these operators are madeto please, but it can feellikeyou are surrendering the opportunity to tailor atrip to you and your interests.

If you don’t want to be trappedlooking at displays of art-decodoilies or payingfor overpriced tea— it’s worth having aplan before disembarking. Yes, seeklocal advice,but be carefulwho you take it from.You’ll need to know your own mind.

Yes, there’s the chance to jumpoff the world’s longest flyingfox, but are you zipping past alocal speciality?Some piece of culture that you’ll not find anywhere else?

Talking to David Mutton, acruise convert who prior to Covid spent 600 days at sea over five years, there are few places he hasyet to sail through. His advice on visiting anew port is to go sightseeing andget an overview.Ifhe’s been before, “it’s nice to do something more specialised”, he says. Choose one thing. Do it well Book in advance or book on board The shore excursions desk is abusy partofmost ships. With experiencedcrew workingclosely with operators, they’ll have no shortage of recommendations or advice— should you need any.

Havingone activity or destination in mindcan help anchor your plans. When aship is in town, the must-do excursions and top-billed experiencestend to fill up quickly. It pays to book ahead. It canbeexpensive,not to mention exhausting, tryingtofit in an excursion at every port.

Aself-researched,self-booked excursionhas the potentialtobemore rewardingand cheaper than booking through the ship’sexcursion planner, thoughthey take time to co-ordinate and arrange.And it’sacase of buyer beware gettingback to the ship on time is your own responsibility andatyour own risk.

oing to sea to see the world”iscruising’s great paradox. Like theobligatory cruise line buffet, it’s atantalising spread of opportunities that youhave precious little time to try The choice of activities canbeparalysing. How would youknowif, while you’resnorkelling with stingray,that elsewhere there isn’t alifechanging experience to ponder existence in Mayan ruins? With every leisurely multi-stopitinerary comes some painstaking decisionsbetween sights, places and experiences you might never get asecond chance to visit again The perfect shoreexcursion is afine art; executedwith surgical precision,maximum leisure andthe hanging prospect that one mishap could see you miss the boat. Time,tide —and cruise ships —wait for no man. So doing ashore excursion “right” is abig concern for sailors. Face it: while on apleasure voyage, with cooking, cleaning and most otherneeds tended to by someoneelse, picking on-shoreactivities mightbethe hardest decision you ever haveto makeona cruise ship. In-depth or broadbrush Ships rarely spend longer than 12 hoursina port. With these scarce moments, one has to decide how to allocate them

Picking the right on-shore activities might be thehardest choice you everhave to makeonacruise, writes Thomas Bywater,who hasadvice to help OF CALL

Are you wanting the confidence afforded by alarge group tour or do you want to get away from the crowds? Are you spending every hour on shoreorwill youhave seen enough by midday?

Akey, redeemingfeature of aship-run excursion —one that somepeople are willing to pay over the odds for —isyou will nevermiss the boat.

You’refar better savingyour energy and budgetfor something you definitely want to see and do

26 | Tuesday, September 6, 2022 travel

Be open to suggestions but knowwhat you want Destinationsthat get alot of ships develop a strange sub-economy —the shore hawker. Whenever aship pulls in you’llnoticeshops/cafes/ museumswill spring into life to prey on the poorly researched and easily distracted.

Cruising: Shore excursions

With every leisurely stop comes somepainstaking decisions on once-ina-lifetimeexperiences. Photos/ 123rf

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Cruising: Expeditions » BEYOND

“Where many ships have veryset itineraries, we are alot looser than that,” says operations consultantJason Friedman.“We are about adventure and explorations. We like to pride ourselves on the fact we will take ourgueststo

Beyondlies the sundeck with its pergola and loungers;abovethe bridge, the Jacuzzi deck becomes afavourite hauntfor sunset cocktails.

Adiscoverycruisefar from tourist routes and heading to the

The 50m vesselis, officially, an ocean-going expedition yacht, but one with heightened levels of luxuryand technology (two engines,six generators,two water machines, countlessGPS and radars) and an intrepid attitude. The Kudanil doesn’t do dull.

Main: Indonesia'sRaja Ampat;above, Kudanil Explorer is adecadent eightberth live-aboard expedition boat. Photos/ Supplied ..

I tis, Ithink,day six of our 10-day expedition voyage in far-eastern Indonesia. To be honest it’s hardtokeep tabs on timebecause each day unfolds in much the same spectacular manner. The sky? Blueand tranquil.The sea? A spectrum of dazzlingblues, also tranquil. The forest? Trilling with exotic birdsong, hornbills whooshing through thecanopy. The beach? Alluringly white and deserted. Untouched by the footprints of anything larger than ahermit crab Divemaster Garry Bevan surveys the scene before us and beams. “I am veryhappy with our anchorage,” he says. “I hope you are too.” We are on avoyage from the port city of Sorong, on the tip of New Guinea’s Bird’s Head Peninsula, through the marine riches of Raja Ampat, along the coast of West Papuauntil we reach the Maluku islands (alsoknownasThe Moluccas,and the Spice Islands). We follow a rough itinerary but thisisanexpeditionat heart, so if Bevan finds something interesting looking on Google maps,captain Wayan Widhyastyatakes us there.Weare never disappointed with his choices Neither Bevan nor Widhyastya, who’s sailed these waters for 20 years, has ever been to Sabuda Island before. Bevan choseitsimply because he thought it might have “some lovely beaches”, and it does. Lying before us are two of them, blinding arcs of whitefringed by dense jungle and washedbytranslucentseas so tempting, Idive in straight off theboatinto a brilliantsubmarine world of corals as plumpas upholstered sofas. There arefeathery crinoids, gaudy tropical fish in all colours and configurations, giant cowriesscattered like treasure on the seabed, andbarracudastalk the edge of asteepshelf. Cloudsofbaitfish swirl overheadina silver murmuration. The crew of the Kudanil Explorer, our decadenteight-berth liveaboard, shuttle umbrellas,chilly bins, foodand towels fromthe ship and construct amakeshiftbeach club beneath gently swaying palms. The remainingnine passengers head ashore to hike,snorkel, paddleboard, sunbathe and drink. Isteer atransparentkayak overthe reef, marvelling at the life below. Five Papuanfishermen, three of themcalled Abdul, arrivewith their catchoffat skipjack tuna.They grill them on apalm-branch barbecue then insist we eat, crying, “Let’s have apicnic!” The flesh —hot, smoky, deliciously oily and daubed with chilli sambal from our ship’s kitchen —isbetter than any restaurant fish I can remember. After lunch, Ikayak to the adjoining beach and find an abandoned fisherman’s camp with ahammock strungthoughtfullybeneaththe fragrant blooms of asea poison tree. Iborrow it for acouple of hours, swinging and snoozing in the breeze.True luxury is knowing,with certainty, that no one will come and disturb me in paradise this afternoon. A board the Kudanil Explorer, launchedin late 2018, indeliblemoments like thisare adaily occurrence. It helps that we almost neversee anothertourist, so there’s a constant senseweare charting new territories, and doing so in greatstyle. Dozens of tourist boats now operate out of Sorong but the majority are variations of Indonesia’s phinisi fishing boats, swashbucklingaffairswith twin masts and more cramped,simpler quarters.

.blinding arcs of white fringed by dense jungle and washed by translucent seas so tempting Idive in straight off the boat into abrilliant submarine world of corals as plump as upholstered sofas.

The vessel is aformer tug that worked the Indonesian oil fields.OwnersRemi and Thibaud Epstein strippeditdown to the hull, then basicallydesigned aboutiquehotel on top of an industrial-strength cruiser capable of crossing oceans.

28 | Tuesday, September 6, 2022 travel

Kudanil Explorer’s eight teak- and oak-lined cabinsare each aspacious 30sq mwith king bed, abalconyand daybed,and en suite bathroom French textiles,handwoven Portuguese carpets andarchipelago art —from ikatbed-runners in raw silk to ancestor figures from Nias adorn suites andpublic spaces, from guest lounges to the bridge deck with its breezy bar and diningarea wherewefeast on fried whitebait and the freshest squid, banana-leaf chicken, sushi and sashimi, even whole Peking duck.

As they surge to the surface, suddenly I’m atiny morsel in amassive fish sandwich.Whale sharks average five to 10m in length,but can up grow to 18m, the size of along bus. Theyare docile creatures but it’s still agenuinely daunting experience whenthey surfaceright esideyou. There is also amemorable visit to the remote village of Lobo, which lies at the base of atowering stone mountain on Mauwara Island.

The Kudanil Explorer offers scheduled and private charter journeysthrough Indonesia’s remotest island groups including Raja Ampat, Triton Bay, Komodo and the Spice Islands. Rates fromUS$1250pp ($2020),per night, twin-share, or US$16,500 aday for exclusive use (up to 16 people), plus 10 per cent GST.Tariff includes full board, all diving and activitiesbut excludes alcohol and spa. Itineraries range in length from five nights focusedaround Komodo Island to 7-12 nights in Raja Ampat and West Papua. kudanil.com

Avoyage on Kudanil Explorer will takeyou to remote parts of Indonesia (above),includingislands andvillages (right). those placesother boats just won’t go. And we will do it faster, safer and in more comfortthan any otherboat in Indonesia.”

The village is simple but fertile and beautiful, brimming withdark-skinned children and lush gardens, the trees heavy with nutmeg, avocados, mangoesand coconuts Waiting to greet us at the shoreare a welcomingcommittee of mostly children, curious and shy but excited at the unexpected arrival of visitorsfromafar.

He tells us thevillagers’ roots go back 10 generations butweare only the fifth tourist boat to visit Lobo in living memory He assures the Kudanilcrew that next time they come they need only pay him avisit and he’ll issue anote of permissionfor themtovisit anywhereinthe region.

“We will cover off-keyattractions andthen go beyond,” Thibaud adds. “That’s part of the luxury, to find places wherewecan be alone.” And we arealmost alwaysalone. Oneday we’ll be kayaking aroundthe surgingbasin of the Kiti Kiti waterfall, awedding-veil cascade that gushesstraight intothe Ceram Sea, on the Fakfak Peninsula (yes, it really is pronounced that way). Anotherwe’ll be hiking to aspring fed swimming hole hemmed in by jungle, with onlylarrikin lorikeets for company. My favourite days? Hard to say, but perhaps theywere the charmed hoursspentatRaja Ampat,inthe heart of the world’s richest reef system.It’s humbling to discover that justnorth of us, in apart of the Pacific we probably couldn’t find on amap, lies abiodiverse marvel, its protected waters hometosome 600 species of corals and about 1400 reef fish. Raja Ampat is so remoteand uncharted that new species are discovered herealmostevery week. Imight have seen somemyself while snorkellingatthe cult divesite Magic Mountain, but Iwas too distracted by the bizarre apparitionofa spottedunicorn fish to focus on finding new fish species Diving is obviouslyabig drawcard in these teeming waters, but the Kudanil is muchmore than adive boat. It also offersenriching voyages hosted by leading cultural historiansand access to “secret” surf spots in West Papua and beyond. (There’s ageneralair of indulgence on the ship that pampers any guest whim,sothe trip can be whatever you wantittobe.)

Inthe far south of West Papua at the scuba hotspot of TritonBay,home to 30 dive sites and unusual species including walking sharks,wehave intimate encounters with whale sharks,the largest fish in the sea. Rickety fishing platformscalledbagans, strung across the Namatote Strait, are magnets for hungryfish.Wepay eagerfishermena smallfee to toss bait into thewatertoattractthe giants.

That’s theKudanil experienceina nutshell. It’s ahedonistic, access-all-areas pass to some of the least explored parts of the planet.

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KUDANIL EXPLORER

There is singing on the wharf,avisit to a classroom, guidedtours of the town’s four churches andsix schools, andan unexpected meeting with thechief of this 500-strongvillage.

At another site, Four Kings, divers watch in awe as hugemantaraysslice through the water above them. No wonder Epstein calls this place, withits treasures underwaterand 1500 karstand-jungle-islands above, all of it looking too postcard-perfect to be real, “kindoflike aDisneyland”. The British biologist Alfred Russell Wallace,whose research in the archipelago in the 1850s bolstered Darwin’s theory of natural selection, describedRaja Ampat best. “Every islet was covered with strange-looking shrubsand trees and was generally crowned by lofty and elegantpalms,” he wrote,“forming one of the most singular and picturesquelandscapes Ihave ever seen.”

LUXURY Spice Islands bringsnew delights every day,writes Kendall Hill Checklist

Cruising: Expeditions »

DETAILS Hurtigruten cruises to Antarcticaona numberof differentvoyages,some including the Falkland Islandsand South Georgia. Cruises depart various South American ports, startingfrom AU$10,335pp (NZ$11,592)twin share Packages are available that includeflightsfrom NZ. hurtigruten.com

Antarcticaattracts travellerswho will go to the ends of the Earth for nature now they can choose aship that cares as much as they do, writes Carolyn Beasley on White

Photos/Carolyn Beasley

A sIgaze upwards from water level, the icebergs are like surreal skyscrapers. I’m paddling akayak through an “iceberggraveyard”, aharbour whereicebergs accumulate and finally melt. The bergs maybedying, but the life here is pulsating. Splashingacross the surface, 30 gentoopenguins porpoise towards me, like mini-torpedoes. Ibracefor apenguininmy lap, but they plunge under my kayak, continuing past. I’m so awestruck that Ilaugh, and in this priceless moment, theimportance of conserving Antarcticaisobvious. Environmental credentials matter in Antarctic cruising. Most visitors aredrawn here for the nature, but with climate change beingfelt here more than anywhere else, many passengers have chosen the Roald Amundsen for its sustainableethos. Norwegiancompany Hurtigruten namedthis ship for thenation’s favourite adventuring son, who in 1911 wasthe firsttoreach the SouthPole. Fittingly, the ship is apioneer. Launching in 2019, the Roald Amundsen became the first polar expedition ship witha hybrid electric battery-diesel engine, reducingcarbon dioxide emissions by approximately 20 per cent. Hurtigruten has since launched atwin ship, the FridtjofNansen, which,in2021 was announced as the most sustainable and safest cruise ship in the world by ScopeESG. There areother green technologiesonboard too.The ice-breakerhull improves fuel efficiency and stability, hydraulic oils are biodegradable and engine heat is usedtoheat the swimming pool, interiors, and hot water. Kitchen waste and sewage are reduced to a benign sludge by bio-digesters,and single-use plastics arebanished Addingtoits virtues,this ship is afloating laboratory. Duringour journey, seawater samples are gathered for research on Antarctic micro-plastics, andthree researchersare using the ship’s tenders to painlessly sample whale skin tissues for pollutionstudies. Guestsget involvedwith citizen science, and Ienthusiastically join aNasa cloud project, and bravethe wind with the ship’s ornithologisttocount albatrosses.Whale tails are photographed for an identification database, and plankton samples are collected and identified under microscopes. During sailingtimes, Inerd-out on innumerable lectures,from seal biology to climate science But don’t be fooled; thisisnosterile boat for boffins.The Roald Amundsenembodies Scandi-style luxury. Onenight, I’m soaking in the toasty, outdoor Jacuzzi as jagged mountainsofice and rock slide by, snowflakes swirling around my face. Dashing to the sauna, I’m sweatingwhile staringatthe coldest continent on earth. Of course, the biggest luxuryhere is first hand access to Antarctica’snature. At the briefing before our first landing, we learn that every activity dependsonthe conditions.

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Checklist ANTARCTICA

The iceberg graveyard at PortCharcot, Antarctica.

Below, fromleft:Deserted US and British bases at Stonington, Antarctica;cruise ship passengers remain a respectful distance as gentoo penguins approach them in Yankee Harbour; Icebergs carved intogothicshapes floatingatsea.

Fromleft: MS Roald Amundsen waits for guests as they explore historic researchstationsat Stonington; Acrabeaterseal on an ice chunkwas one of the wildlife highlights;Adelie penguins alsolive here “Thisisnot aholiday,it’s an expedition!” says expedition leader Steffen Bierseck, only half joking. “We always have aPlan A, Band C,” he says. “Once, we had to use Plan J, but we still had afabulous time.” Boarding the inflatable Zodiac boats, our first landing is in the South Shetland Islands at agentoo penguin colony. Stepping ashore, Itry to remain arespectful distance fromthe penguins as instructed, but the curious birds disregardthe guidelines. It’s ariot of noise, as large chicks chase parents, demanding food, whileothers lift their heads,calling their family. It’s the richest wildlife encounter of my life, andonly my first day in Antarctica Each day,gobsmacking adventures await At nearbyDeception Island, the ship shimmies through anarrowgap into aflooded volcanic caldera, wheresteaming hot water seeps through the sediments. Steffen explains the tradition of apolar plunge,and seeking bragging rights, Istrip down to my swimsuit, teeth chatteringfrom the cold, and also fromfear.I sprint into the water anddunk my head, shrieking as the breath is squeezed frommylungs.

On the beach I’m handed afluffy towel, the whole exercise completed in 34 seconds. At anothersite we’re forced to abandonthe landing due to rough conditions,but while the expedition team reassesses, 20 orcascruise by, snacking on fish and winning our hearts. Implementing Plan B, we prepare for a landing at Stonington, crossing an ice-slurry bayinZodiacs.

Romping like puppies, up to 20 crabeater seals crowd on to each floating ice chunk Here, we explore eerie US and Britishbases, deserted since 1975, complete with tinned food, posters and even shoeswhere they were left. Asudden thundering sends us scurryingoutside Across asmallbay, the glacier is calving, enormous blocks of ice crumbling off, sending amini-tsunami to where we stand. At Horseshoe Island we embark on a7km hike, passingrocks decorated in brightgreen malachite,like splashesoffluorescent paint Atop arocky mountain, awooden cross commemorates three researcherswho mysteriously disappeared on afield trip in 1958. We pause for afive-minute silence, considering the fragility of life here,our senses tuning into the whistlingwind andsquawking adelie penguins. Our final stop is Elephant Island, andits historical significance gives me goosebumps. In 1916, British explorerErnest Shackletonleft 22 of his men here, whileheand five others set out for South Georgia Island in a6m-long lifeboat. Incredibly, they succeeded, navigatingthrough1400km of appalling seas —and everyman was rescued In our Zodiacs, we cruise past Shackleton’s inhospitable, rocky isthmus andevery available piece of landisoccupied; chinstrap and gentoo penguins,squabbling with fur seals, and gigantic southern elephant seals. Appearingbeside us, afierce leopard seal eyes us suspiciously. Patrolling,it’s waiting for ahapless penguin to take its final swim We’re reminded that in Antarctica, afine line separates life anddeath, andwehumans mustnot disrupt thisalreadyfragile balance. Antarctica inspiresawe like nowhere else on Earth, and now,like everytraveller who ventures south, it’s my duty to advocate for its protection.

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in Antarctica,a fine line separates life anddeath, and we humans mustnot disruptthis already fragile balance.

onmybucketlist!”or“Galapagos?Isn’tthatin Greeceorsomething?”

Ihavecycledalongthelowlands ofSantaCruzIslandtoEl Trapichesugarcanedistillery andburnedmythroatonthe elderlyowner’shand-made

explorestheislandsthatinspiredDarwinonaluxurycruise

stateof origin

Main:Zodiacboatstake youfromsmallislandsto themainship;right,oneofthe famousGalapagosgiant tortoises. Photos /SarahPollok

Forthoseinthelattercamp,theGalapagos IslandsareanEdenicarchipelagoof19islands about1000kmoffthecoastofEcuador.Thanks to thelocation(atthefertilejunctionofthreeocean currentsandfarawayenoughfromlargecountries forhumanstointerferetoomuch),it’sdescribed as a“meltingpotofmarinespecies”byUnesco. OnethatfamouslyinspiredCharlesDarwin’s theoryofevolution,following avisitin1835. Morethan10,000kmfromAotearoa,itcanalso befantasticallydifficulttoreach.However,ifyou dreamofseeing asliceoftheworldfiercely protectedandlargelyuntouched,remoteinevery senseoftheword,it’swortheverybitofeffort.

Afterdeftlycircumnavigating a“mess”of marineiguanasonFloreanaIsland, Ihavefeltthe sharpspinesof apricklypeartreeandstroked thesmoothenamelskullof amalesealion. Intheship’srestaurant, Ihaveenjoyedthebest cuisineEcuadorhastooffer,experiencedinthree courseseverylunchanddinnerandorderedoff swankyiPadmenus.

ScanthisQRcodewithyour mobilephonetofindmore greattraveltips,adviceand inspirationfrom nzherald.co.nz/travel I

Mentionthedestinationandyou’llalmost alwaysgetoneoftworesponses:“Ohwow,that’s

SarahPollok

watch,transfixed,asthesealionpup waddlesbehinditsmotherdownthebeach andintothewater,itsbrownsand-caked furturning asleekdarkgreyasitleaps throughthewaves.Simultaneously,a voicenarratestheaction,explaininghow thepupwillbetotallydependentforthefirstsix monthsoflife. ThesestunningscenesareonesI’veseena thousandtimesbefore.Except,thistime,I’mnot lyingonthecouchlisteningtothedulcettonesof SirDavidAttenboroughduringanepisodeof Blue Planet.Instead,I’mon atinyislandinthemiddle ofthePacificOcean,justtwometresawayfrom thesebeautifulcreatures,withmyEcuadorian tourguide,Danny. Welcome,totheGalapagosIslands.

DuringmyninedayscruisingtheGalapagos onHurtigrutenExpedition’shandsomeMS SantaCruzII, Ihaveswumwithplayfulsealion pupsandreadtheoriginaldiariesofRobert CharlesDarwin. Ihaveperformedthe“Galapagoshandshake” whileleapingbetweendinghiesandbeaches, graspingtheforearmsof smallyetsurprisingly strongEcuadoriancrewastheyclaspmyarm inreturn. Ihaveseen agianttortoisewhowas20years oldwhenthetelephonewasinvented;itsage,like atree,hiddeninthenumberofringsonitsshell. Ontheport-sidedeckduringcocktailhour Ihave seen115Galapagossharkssilentlyflanktheship undersoftmoonlightandbeeninvitedtothe bridge,wherecaptainssteerustowardsthenext otherworldlyisland. Ihavebeengentlyrockedinto aslumbersodeep thateveryinsomniacnightsincehasbeen hauntedbydreamsofthebedinroom129,and I’veheardthewords“bucketlisttrip”nearly 12,320timesfrom asmallbandofretired Americanssportingzip-offpantsandinfectious enthusiasm.

MyKiwi-borncynicismtowardsbeaches describedas“bestintheworld”hasbeen delightfullydisprovenbythefinewhitesandsand devastatinglybluewaterofGardnerBay, aplace thatcanonlybedescribedasdesktop screen-saverbeautiful.

GETTING THERE Fly to Quito with Air New Zealand and United Airlines, via Houston. Talk to your travel agent or Hurtigruten Expeditions to book flights to coincide with your cruise. DETAILS Hurtigruten Expeditions’ Galapagos Islands Expedition —inDarwin’s Footsteps —isa 9-day cruise that travels from Quito, Ecuador to several of the Gala´pagos Islands. The cruise will make 32 departures between January 2023 and March 2024. hurtigruten.com Galapagos Islands NZ SouthPacific Ocean South America

Tuesday, September 6, 2022 | 33

TortoiseReserve to see giant tortoises, soaking in ahot tub while the sun sets before cocktail hour and apre-dinner “science talk”. From Mosquera Islet to Espanola Island, we trek, kayak, snorkel, paddleboard, ride dinghies and sit on glass-bottom boats. Each day starts as early as 6am and ends around 9pm, and while every activity is optional, we are stubborn in our participation. Here, everything you see and do will likely be for the first and last time. So, it’s fortunate the cruise itinerary offers no shortage of chances to see it all. As aKiwi, Iarrive with tempered expectations about being wowed by wildlife. But here’s the thing about Galapagoscreatures; they are both the wildest and most innocent animals you’ll ever encounter. Free from ahistory of human harm, they simply have no reason to curb their playful curiosity. So much so, that we often find ourselves stumbling backwards to maintain the suggested 2-metre distance. Three days of boat-based adventure are perfectly broken up with one spent on Santa Cruz Island. Docking at Porta Ayora, we visit the Charles Darwin Research Station, which holds an operating science centre, the embalmedbody of Lonesome George (the last of his sub-species and areminder of the importance of conservation) and several tortoise enclosures Peeking through the fence, aNew York passenger coos at abundle of matchbox-sized baby tortoises before asking if any are available to purchase. “They would be so cute in my apartment,” she says, before we steer her towards the enclosure of fully grown 230kg tortoises and point out how they wouldn’t just outgrow her home, but outlast her by approximately 100 years. All the while, at every destination, during every activity, we’re accompanied by Martin, the cruise’sdedicated photographer who captures every moment. As asolo traveller, it’s arelief to know I’ll leave with some pictures in front of the lens. The itineraryisone that requires you to be well-fed, and well-fed we absolutely are, with a quantity and quality of food I’ve never experienced on holiday before. Impressive buffet breakfasts are followed by athree-course lunch, eveningcocktail with snacks and another threecourse dinner. Each day the menu boasts Ecuadorian items like ceviche, Locro de papa (potato and cheese soup), and fried plantain, alongside Western classics like sirloin steak, creamy avocado salad and eggplant lasagne, all served with linen napkins and polished silverware. In the corner of the restaurant, atable remains reserved for captains and senior crew who dress as immaculately as their ship. Asmiling gang in ironed black pants and crisp white shirts, their rank subtly shown by the wrinkles around their grin and stripes on their epaulettes. One night, Geovanny Mosquera, one of the captains with four stripes, and kind eyes, welcomes us to visit the bridge. We enter via adelightfully mysterious door marked “CREW ONLY” at the very front of the ship. With its sweeping panel of buttons, levers, switches and maps, the room has an undeniable sense of authority and importance. Yet it’s one that guests are welcome to visit (Covid-19 permitting), thanks to the ship’s “open bridge policy” The second officer asks if we can spot the most valuable piece of equipment. We guess large red buttons and stacks of paper charts, odd measuring devices and even the captain himself. Stiflinga smile, he turns to point at asmall drip coffee machine, tucked in the corner.

Clockwise: The recently refurbished MS Santa Cruz II; testing the home-made moonshine at afamilyowned sugar cane farm; a“smiling” Galapagos land iguana; strolling along Gardner Bay.

The MS Santa Cruz II is best described as a floatinghotel but aboutique one; spacious enough to feel relaxingbut far more intimate than those gigantic 5000-person vessels. Between the library and research centre, there is also adistinct air of education and exploration; this is aship upon which leisure and learning take place.

The 50 cabins can hold 90 guests and come in four categories; 2-person explorer, 1-person voyager, 3-person family and three exclusive Darwin suites. No matter what room you get, a large ocean-view window is guaranteed. From the spotless suite to the immaculate lounge and dining areas, it feels like the last place you’d catch acold, let alone Covid. The cabins are cleaned three times aday and staff can often be caught sanitising common-area surfaces during quiet hours. Reel off the activities in just one day to someone back home and they’ll assume you’re describing the entire trip; hiking San Cristobal Island to see red and blue-footed boobies and snorkelling with sea lions at Punta Pitt. Visiting the Cerro Colorado

Ihave, without a doubt, been taught more about geology and ecology by our guide Daniel Jacome (or, Danny Number Five, due to the number of Daniels on the crew), than in years of science class. Inow know the speed a land iguana can run and the wingspan of ablue-footed booby; asmall ground finch’s diet and the mating dance of awaved albatross. Not from the pictures in abook or shots in adocumentary but from being there, seeing it. All that to say that over nine days, one can have enough “once in alifetime” experiencesto last several lives. W hen sailing with Hurtigruten Expeditions on one of their several Galapagos Island itineraries, the experience starts at Quito Airport. Our 45-person group is shepherded frictionlessly from hotel to shuttle, airport to plane while tickets and forms appear in hand the moment they’re needed. After landing at Baltra Island in the Galapagos, ashuttle pulls us towards aharbour where a dozen vessels wait on water so blue you’re powerless to avoid the cliche adjectives; azure, crystal, lapis lazuli. Afleet of dinghies ferries us to MS Santa Cruz II, and after we are escorted to our rooms by a crew member, my group spend the next 30 minutes running around the ship like children. Getting lost between the levels, we gasp and giggle at the sight of the library and research centre, private gym, cocktail bar,fine dining restaurant and two Jacuzzis on the back deck (because, why the heck not?).

Following amassive refurb in 2021, it is “shipshape” embodied. White, black and magnificent on the outside with abold stripe of red. Modern, refined and classic on the inside, with arefreshing absenceofnautical decor.

Checklist GALAPAGOS

Filethisinthe“maybesometime”basket. Itinerariesvary —10-dayvoyagesbetween ChongqingandShanghai,three-four-day excursions;mostincludetheThreeGorges, includingthecontroversialdamandgorgeous steep,mistycliffs;centuries-oldpagodas;the ghostcityofFengduandrarewildlife. Mekong Length: 4350km When: winter(Nov-Feb)iscoolerbutcrowded; rainyseason(Jun-Oct)lessbusy,wetter andhotter Oneofthebestwaystoseeandexperiencethe realAsia,lookfor aweek-long(giveortake) voyagerunningfromSiemReap,Cambodia, nearthetemplesofAngkor Wat,toHoChiMinh CityinVietnam. Mostofthetimeyou’llfloatpastruralscenery,althoughPhnomPenhandHoChiMinh CitywillcatapultyouintoVietnamWarand KhmerRougeterritory,POWcampsand tunnels.Inthelowerreaches,you’llreturnto thepeaceofbamboojungle,ricefieldsand

www.afﬁnitycruises.co.nz 0800862 334 HostedSmallGroupCruisingatit’sbest Popularwithmaturetravellers Topofthe SouthCruise 10Night Ultimate Topofthe SouthCruise Departing WellingtonOctoberorMarch Only10Spaces remaining Marlborough SoundsCruises Oct -April 4night –PelorusCruise &Walk 5Night –Cruise &WalktheQueenCharlotte Track 6Night –SoundsScenicCruise • Walk • Explore • Dayexcursions • Fishfortheplate Allmeals,activities &cabinaccommodationincluded Cruisesstart from$2800 perperson Cruising: Rivers » PERFECTLY FORMED Rivercruiseboatstaketheir gueststodestinationsthebigboyscouldnot begintocontemplate,writes EwanMcDonald CheckoutViennawhileon acruiseontheDanube. Photos/ Unsplash N

Douro Length: 897km When: Year-round; MayandSept bestoptions Youdon’thavetohave atasteforport, butithelps.TheDourowindsfromPorto’s medievaldockyardsintotheruggedDouro Valleyforwinetastings,theawesomevultures’ nestofDouroNationalPark,and agobsmacking finaleingoldenSalamanca,justacrossthe Spanishborder(8days).

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EUROPE Danube Length: 2888km When: Year-round;avoidsummer (Jun-Aug)whenlowwatermay causecancellations Waltzingthroughninecountries, thebrown DanubeisEurope’s secondlongestriverandthemost popularforcruises.Highlights includesomeofthecontinent’smost majesticcapitals —Budapest,Vienna andminiatureBratislava;medieval villages,castlesandcathedrals;with side-tripstogemslikeSalzburgor Nuremberg.Mosttravellersoptforone-way trips,usuallyseven-10days,oftensettingout fromPassauandsailingcross-countryto Budapest;thosewithmorewindintheirsails couldcontinuethroughBucharesttothedelta ontheRomania-Ukraineborder.Perhapsnot now,though.

ASIA Yangtze Length: 6300km When: Year-round;spring(Mar-May) andautumn(Sep-Nov)forcoolerbreezes, fewermosquitoes

ewZealandershavetakento cruiseholidayslike …well,Kiwis to water. Alongsideour transtasmancousins,we’re amongthelargestmarketsfor seaborneholidaysontheplanet. Say“cruise”,however,andmostthinkofoceangoingcasinos,Vegas-styleshowsandgigantic floatingresorts. Rivercruisesare adifferentexperience: smallerships,fewerpeople, amoreintimate encounterwiththedestinationandthelocals. Herearesomeofthebest —placesguaranteed tofloatyourboat.

Rhine Length: 1320km When: Year-round;December,Christmas markets,crazybusy;shoulderseason(Aprilor Sept)bestdeals

Rhone Length: 812km When: March-Nov,grapeharvestsfrom Aug-Oct Takea weekorsotoexploresouthern France,fromBeaune,heartofBurgundy,throughvineyardsand chateaux,stoppingfor abiteinthe country’sgastronomiccapital, Lyon,throughhistoricAvignonto Arles,homeofVanGoghand Cezanne.

Maybenotthissummer,buttheRhineusually flowsthroughpeakEurope —Switzerland, France,GermanyandtheNetherlands.Options runfroma half-daytoeinthewaterto14-day multi-countrytrips.Whileeachbendintheriver hasitsmarvels,Germany’s65kmstretchof MiddleRhineValleyisthestretchofliterary, operaticandfairytalefame,studdedwith imposingcastles,medievalvillagesandhilltop palaces.Strappedfortime,four-daycruisesfrom StrasbourgtoKoblenzare agreatwaytopack thisin,alongwithRhinelandvineyards.

CRUISEBACKINTO TRAVEL IN2023 One-of-a-kind, award-winningships | Themostinclusiverivercruise Outstandingservice | Farm-to-tablecuisine Book by 30 September 2022 & save 10% on select 2023 cruises Conditions apply CASTLESALONG THERHINE 8 Days | Basel to Amsterdam S S Antoinette, River Queen or River Empress PORTUGAL,SPAIN &THE DOURORIVER VALLEY 11 Days| Porto to Lisbon S S São Gabriel Contact yourlocaltravelagent,call0800465432orvisitusat Uniworld.com/nz

ThebetteroptionisPeru,whereshallow-

Lyonisbestseenwhile cruisingdowntheRhone; below,SeeAmericabyriver; right,Checkoutthepyramids whilecruisingthroughEgypt. pagodasandthehappierchaosoffloatingvillages andcolourfulmarketsintheMekongDelta.

Amazon Length: 6992km When: Wetseason(Dec-May)for fewercrowds,spectacularwildlife Welcometothejungle,orwhat remainsasrapaciouscapitalism anduncaringpoliticiansdotheir worsttotheworld’slargestriver, itssurroundingenvironment, wildlifeandindigenousinhabitants. TherivercrosseseightSouth AmericannationsbutBrazilattracts mosttraffic,includingthelargecruise ships and hordesofvisitors,particularlyin thestretchbetweenManausandBelem.

THEAMERICAS

AUSTRALIA Murray Length: 2735km When: Year-roundonthelowerriver;tours furtherinlandrelyonhigherspringtimewaters AstheMississippiistotheUSA,sothe“mighty Murray”shapedmodernAustralianhistory.The riverwas amajorshippingrouteinthe19th century,ferryinggoodsandproduceacrossVictoria,NewSouthWalesandSouthAustralia. Today,luxurycruisersandrecreatedpaddlesteamersofferitinerariesrunningfromthreesevendays,most on thelowerriverbetween MurrayBridgeandtheoldtrading postsofMannumandMorgan. Inchingthroughtheriver systemat agenteelpace, they’regreatforwildlife viewing;longertrips arelikelytooffer tramping,smallboatsafaris,wine tastingsandculturalexperiences. I’dsuggestbookinginNovember whentheriveris higherandcruises runfurtherupstream fromhistoricEchuca, thatwasonceoneofthe country’sbusiestand richestports.

travel Tuesday,September6,2022 | 35

TheNewOrleans-to-Memphisstretchofthis vast river —widerthan amile: 16kmatitswidest point —callstomindHuckFinn,theeraof slaveryandcivilwar,bigcities,allbut forgottentowns,wildswampsandrock legends. You’lltravelitinstyle.

Mississippi Length: 3734km When: Riverboatsplythelower reachesinwinter(Nov-Dec)and summer(Apr-Jun) MarkTwain.GoneWiththeWind. Elvis.CreedenceClearwater Revival.Theworld’sfourthlongest rivercutsthroughtheliteraland spiritualheartoftheUSandsome ofitsmostbeautifulscenery. Naturally,manyshipsaredesigned tolooklikeold-fashionedpaddlesteamersandthevoyages,whichcan rangefroma few hourstothreeweeksor longer,passquainttownsandmajorcities andincludevisitstoplantationhomesand battlesites.

bottomedriverboatssetoutfromIquitostothe northerntributariesandtheriver’sheadwaters ontripstypicallyfour-sevendays.A highlight isPacaya-Samiriareserve,20,000sqkmof flooded,wildlife-packedjunglewherevisitors stopinvillages,swimwithpinkriverdolphins andsoakuponeofthemostbiodiverseplaces onEarth.

AFRICA Nile Length: 6853km When: Boatssailyear-roundbutOct-April isthecoolestperiod LifeontheNile,withapologiestoDameAgatha Christieandalltheseotherwaterways,hasto betheultimaterivercruise.Mostvoyagesare lessthan aweeklongandsail aroundtripfrom Cairo,whichisusuallyincludedinthepackage, callinginatLuxorandAswan. BecauseEgyptgrewupontheriver’sbanks, acruiseis one ofthebestwaystoexperiencethe country,its5000yearsofhistory,ancientglories includingthePyramidsandtheSphinxand observeitsfractiouspresent. You’llhavethechoiceofvesselsfrom asmall cruiseshipto aChristie-inspiredsteamshipor dahabeyahouseboatwithgiantsails.From Aswan asidetriptoAbu Simbel,thepairofhuge rocktemplescarvedfromof amountainsidenear theSudaneseborder,is amust.

36 | Tuesday,September6,2022 travel Enjoytheperfectblendofeleganceandease–wherelittletouchesarebold,gesturesaregrandandtheviewseven grander.There’sareasonourshipsarethecritics’darlingsandfavouritesamongourmostdiscerningguests.Our boutique-hotel-inspiredPanoramaSuitesfeaturetheindustry’sonlyOpen-AirBalconieswiththewidest-opening windowsincruisinganddecadentComfortCollectionbedsthatfacetheever-changingscenery. THEONLYWAY TO RIVERCRUISE 80%OFOUR UNRESTRICTECABINSONBOARD DOPENAIR BEDSBALCONY THATFACETHEVIEW MAGNIFICENTEUROPE 15daysAmsterdamtoBudapest • RiverCruising’sonlysuiteswithbedsthatfacetheview • Expansive,comfortableandluxurioussuites • Renownedrelaxedluxuryandfun,notstuffyatmosphere • BikealongtheMainDanubeCanalorwalkingtourinVolkach • HikethecountrysideortourBenedictineAbbeyinMelk • TourtheOperaHouseandStStephen’sCathedralinVienna COLOGNE RhineRiver RÜDESHEIM BAMBERG NUREMBERG REGENSBURG PASSAU VIENNA BUDAPEST DanubeRiver Rhine Gorge Main Danube Canal AUSTRIA HUNGARY GERMANY Main River ROTH MELK WÜRZBURG HOLLAND LINZ Wachau Valley AMSTERDAM VOLKACH 14 CRUISEINOUR AWARD WINNING PANORAMASUITEFROM $10,278* perperson(twinshare,departing09Oct2023,catA) WELCOME TO ANEW WAVEINCRUISING. PICTUREYOURSELFTHERETODAY! Formoreinformationvisitavalonwaterways.co.nz, call0800000 883orseeyourtravelagent *Prices correctas of 31/08/22.Pricesareperperson,twinshareandincludeapplicablesavings.Saveupto$8,400percouple valid to 30Sep22.Qantas FrequentFlyermemberscanearn 2Qantas Pointsoneligiblebookings withAvalon Waterways.Eligible bookingsinclude Avalon WaterwayspackagespurchasedusingNewZealandDollars,soldthrough Avalon Waterwaysdirectlyorviaone of theirbookingagents.Memberswillnotearnpointsifabookingiscancelledprior to departure. To earnQantas Points, amember mustaddtheirQantas FrequentFlyernumber to theirbookingprior to departure. If amemberadds multipleQantas FrequentFlyermembers to thebooking,the totalamountofpointsearnedwillbesplitequallybetweenpassengersunderthesame Referencenumber foundon yourinvoice. Pointswillbecredited to the relevant FrequentFlyeraccountwithin60daysofdeparture.QantasPointswillbe awarded to youbasedontheﬁnalamount of theeligibletravelledbooking. Avalon WaterwaysTermsandConditionsapply. EARN27,034 QANTASPOINTSPERPERSON SAVEUP TO $8,400 PERCOUPLE*

Kayaking on the Rhone; below, Avalon Waterways’ Poetry II Photos/ Supplied

Cruising therivers of southern France?

Checklist RHONE RIVER

An eight-day Avalon Waterways’ “Active & Discoveryonthe Rhone” cruise from Lyon to Arles is priced from $4355pp (book before September 30). Flights fromNew Zealand are additional. avalonwaterways.co.nz

TheFrench connection

R iver cruising is one of those romantic, fairy-tale holidays I’d heard so much aboutbefore experiencing it myself. Accordingtothose who had gone before, Iwouldbelounging in my luxury bed or kicking back in the bar, looking out oversparklingwater, Aperol spritz in hand as castles,hilltopvillages andvineyards drifted by. Can’t fault that as aconcept. WhatI don’t think Iunderstood properly before boarding Avalon’s Poetry II from Arles to Lyon was the sheerchoice of included“offship” activities. And that, while relaxing would definitely be part of the cruise,I would also have so many once-in-a-lifetimeexperiences that were nothing to do with the vesselitself. If you’re thinkingabout travelling this stunning route up the Rhone,I would seriously recommenda cruise including at least someofthese incredible excursions. Les Carrieres de Lumiere While docked in Arles,one of the included options was avisit to acovered limestonequarry with akind of “light andsound show”. The Cruise Directorlooked like he was really struggling to find words to describejust how impressive it was. His angst was enough to tip my decision and I’m so glad it did, as it was truly aonce-in-a-lifetimeexperience. Iunderstand why it was difficult to adequately describe the magnitude of this multimedia extravaganza— where giant projections of the familiartableaus of Van Gogh blendedand morphed seamlessly on 14-metre-highFlintstone-esque slabsofrock to asoundtrack ranging fromoperatojazz to haunting ballads.There’s notmuch that renders me speechless but this gobsmackedme, and seemingly everyone elseinthis space who were in the same mesmerised stupor.

Lyon —food and rooftop tour While most daysI onlydid the includedexcursions in the morning, when we dockedinLyon, Ichose the optional afternoon tour as well. Both were outstanding.The morningactivity was a foodie tour of lovely Lyon. By the end, Icould see why famedfood critic Curnonsky dubbed this citythe world capital of gastronomy backin1935, andwhy it has proudly treasured that accolade andbuilt on it over the decades to come. We tried all the localspecialities withour lovely guide —praline, sausages, quenelles and cheese —but the most fun partwas gettingfrom street to street via “Les Traboules”. These secret passages (morethan 300 in total,although not all accessible now)were mainly constructed in the 19th century for silk traders to transporttheir wares in difficult weather. Pushing opensecret doors and winding through passages into courtyards to emerge in atotally different street was childlikejoy at its best.

The optional afternoon tour was called “RooftopsofLyon” and while it includeda lot of gorgeous viewpoints, the most stunninghad to be the roof of Lyon’s Basilica.Toour fortune,

Other excursions

Valrhona Chocolate Factory Tour

Avalonseemed to be the luckycompany that had arelationship with the only guide whohad special access to the very top. We climbedhigher and higherthrough the church to see different vantage points of the glittering mosaic-lined interior, finally popping up at the pinnacle for sweepingviewsofthe whole of Lyon.Absolutely unforgettable Kayaking theGorges de l’Ardeche After all the chocolate eating and incredible foodonthe ship, it felt goodtojump in akayak andpaddle our way through asectionofthe Gorges de l’Ardeche. The canyons,rivers,gorges and rock formations were breathtakingand it was so much fun watching how French people holiday— in groups with gorgeous picnics, dogs, kayaks and inflatables. It was certainly busier than any river I’ve kayaked at home but we enjoyed the challenge of navigating the rapids with multiple other boats in the spectacular canyonsofthis Rhone tributary

While thismightnot be abucket-list activity for everyone, Itotally felt like acertain Roald Dahl character clutchingmygolden ticket on the excursiontoValrhona Chocolate. Ihave always loved this well-known French chocolate house and could notbelieve oneofour Rhone river port stops was Tainl’Hermitage,now referredtoasthe City of Chocolate since Valrhona opened its doors to the public in 2006. We did afascinating tasting, made our own bespoke chocolate bars andexplored the interactive museumlike excited kids. It’s probably better not to talk about the amount of freesamplingI did —resistance in theface of 70 per cent Guanaja was futile.

Even the more traditional city tours around placeslike Avignon were great; aparticularly amusing one was alate-night “ghost tour” of beautiful Viviers. Sometimes the optionswere all just too good so it was interesting to chatto others afterwards andfind out how their excursions played out. It sounded like e-biking through small French villages in the Gard was outrageously charming; learning to paint like Van Gogh was ariot (this was in Arles, where the infamousear incident actually occurred); visiting the pink-hued salt flats of the Camargue was magical and wine tastinginthe dark in an underground cave was anotheronce-in a-lifetimer. Ialmost feel like Icouldcomeback, do thesame cruise, choosing all different options and have an equally good time

Alexia Santamaria suggests the best off-ship activities

38 | Tuesday,September6,2022 travel

Cunard: Queen Anne Queen Anne refines the elegant Cunard cruise experience andalso embracesthe future,incor porating many of the iconic cruise brand’s classicand much-loved features alongwith new innovations and afew surprises like DJ sets by the pool. With acombinationofArt Deco and modern design details, Queen Anne is set to appealtoa younger crowd than previous ships but moretraditionalguests haven’t been forgotten. Catchingashow from the comfort of avelvetseat at the RoyalCourt Theatre, dining at Britannia Restaurant or raising apintatthe Golden LionPub never goes out of style.Mareel Wellness &Beauty, the line’s new spa area and wellnessstudio, is impressive andfeatures aWellness Cafeand plentyofoptions for pampering. Cunard’s Queen Anne is scheduled to begin sailing in early 2024. Why you’ll love it: DJ sets by the aft pool? Bring it on! Why you won’t: One is notamused by Cunard gettinghip with the kids. cunard.com

Virgin Voyages: Resilient Lady Heading to Australiaand New Zealand for next year’s summer season, the 2700-passenger Resilient Lady is set to become the third vessel in Virgin Voyages’ expanding fleet andoffersa vibrant cruise experience aimed at ayoung and young-at-heart demographic. Abasic beverage package, gratuities, freeWi-Fi and fitness classes comeasstandard. Cabins aremodern, with colours and curves and afunky retro 1970s edge. Accommodation ranges from solo staterooms to huge RockStar suitesthat include recordplayers, electric guitars anda bottomlessmini bar. There are more than 20 diningvenues to choose from, all of which come at no additional charge.

Main:Anartist's impression of Norwegian Viva, acruise ship launchingin late 2023; below, Celebrity's fourth and finalEdgeclass ship, Celebrity Ascent Photos /Supplied ike anew model car straight off the production line, anew cruise ship has an irresistible“fresh outofthe box” scentand cutting-edge features that surprise and delight (and occasionally leave you scratchingyour head). Some of the newest ships on the horizon are refined versions of previous vessels; otherspromise mind-blowing attractions, some of whichremain top secret. With moreopen spaceondeck, largercabins and afocus on environmentally conscious cruising, there’s alot to get excited about next year and beyond.

On the horizon

Tiana Templeman investigates some of the best new ships launchingnext year and beyond, andwhat’s in storeifyou get on board

Whyyou’lllove it: Virgin Voyages are adultsonly ships so no under-18s are allowed onboard. Whyyou won’t: You’ve got young kids and love cruising as afamily. virginvoyages.com

Cruising: New ships »

Continued on p41

celebritycruises.com

Norwegian Cruise Lines: NorwegianViva The second in her class, Norwegian Viva is as exciting,spacious and refined as her sister ship, Norwegian Prima. Cateringtoall ages and tastes, there’s an abundance of entertain ment on offer including Broadwayshowsand live music, plus amulti-level racetrack and an adrenaline-charged10-storeydry slide called The Drop. If you want to scare yourself silly with afriend, The Rush’s duelling slides are for you. If all this excitement isn’t to your taste, opt for aroom with abutler in The Haven, which has adedicated pool, lounge and bar, restaurant and aprivate lift.Norwegian Viva will be basedinthe Mediterranean and Caribbean when it begins sailing in late 2023.

Why you’ll love it: You’ve cruised in Europe before and don’t mindskipping afew ports. Why you won’t: The port-intensive itineraries don’t leave much time for enjoying the ship. ncl.com

travel Tuesday, September 6, 2022 | 39

Celebrity Cruises: Celebrity Ascent Celebrity’s fourth and final Edge classship, Celebrity Ascent,adds to an already innovative designwith the line’s first dedicatedsolo rooms for single travellers andadditional shared spaces to create an upmarket resort at sea. The Magic Carpet, aplatform that can be raised, lowered and used to host everythingfrom drinks to dining and entertainment, also features. Suite guests will have exclusive access to The Retreat,aship within-a-ship withaprivate sundeck, restaurant and lounge, when the shipdebuts in December 2023. There are morethan 30 drinking anddining venues plus world-class showsinanimpressive digital theatre Why you’ll loveit: Everything aboutCelebrity Ascent oozesstyle and class Why youwon’t: The Retreatsoundsfabulous but it’s out of reach for many travellers.

40 | Tuesday, September 6, 2022 travel *Conditions apply. SEE: aptouring.co.nz/SpecialDeals forfull conditions. Book by 31 October 2022, unlesssoldout prior.Pricesare per person (pp), NZD,twinshareand inclusive of Savings Pricescorrectasat2September2022.PricesbasedonUT22BEVV:22April2023;UTAH26:30April2023;UT21BWCIV:2July2023.OFFERS:Limitedoffersonsetdeparturesareavailableand subjecttoavailability.DEPOSIT:Anon-refundabledepositof$1,000ppisduewithin7daysofbooking.AustralianPaciﬁcTouringPtyLtd.ABN44004684619.APT 3249-NZH Scanthe QRcode toﬁnd outmore. Save up to $2,000 percouple* Offerends31October.BookNow 22DAYSVANCOUVERRETURN •GuaranteedLakeviewRoomatFairmont ChateauLakeLouise •GuaranteedGoldLeafServiceonthe RockyMountaineer. •GuaranteedMountainViewRoomat FairmontBanffSprings •BreakfastatCapilanoSuspensionBridge Park’sCliffHouseRestaurant •VisitTheButchartGardensbeforehoursand dineintheoriginalButchartresidence. SunPeaks Kamloops Ketchikan Juneau GlacierBay MtRobson AthabascaGlacier LakeLouise Banff Jasper National Park Jasper ALASKA USA Skagway Banff National Park Whstler Vancouver Island Victoria BRITISH COLUMBIA ALBERTA CANADA 7 HollandAmericaLine 2 2 2 1 2 2 1 2 $14,295* pp,twinshare Saveupto $2,000percouple* TRIPCODE:UT22BEVV CONTACTOUR TRAVELEXPERTS NOW 0800 458965 aptouring.co.nz OR SPEAKTOYOURTRAVELAGENT Kamloops Ketchikan Juneau GlacierBay Vancouver Island MtRobson AthabascaGlacier LakeLouise Banff Calgary Jasper NationalPark Jasper ALASKA Skagway Banff NationalPark Whistler 2 22 1 USA BRITISH COLUMBIA ALBERTA CANADA 2 2 2 1 VANCOUVER HollandAmericaLine 7 VICTORIA 1 2 TRIPCODE:UT21BWCIV 21DAYSVICTORIATOVANCOUVER •Witnessthemulti-dayCalgaryStampede, billedasTheGreatestOutdoorShowonEarth. •GuaranteedLakeviewRoomatFairmont ChateauLakeLouise •GuaranteedGoldLeafServiceonthe RockyMountaineer. •Guaranteedverandahonyourseven-night InsidePassagecruisefeaturingGlacierBay •MeetaMountieandlistentotalesofthe RoyalCanadianMountedPolice $18,895* pp,twinshare Saveupto $2,000percouple* Vancouver Whittier ANCHORAGE CollegeFjord DenaliNationa Park SunPeaks Kamloops Ketchikan Juneau GlacierBay AthabascaGlacier LakeLouise Banff Jasper National Park Jasper ALASKA Skagway Banff National Park WhistlerVancouver Island USA BRITISH COLUMBIA ALBERTA CANADA 2 2 2 2 1 2 1 HollandAmericaLine 7 VICTORIA 2 3 1 TRIPCODE:UTAH26 26DAYSVICTORIATOANCHORAGE •GuaranteedDenaliSuiteatMcKinley ChaletResort •GuaranteedGoldLeafServiceonthe RockyMountaineer Guaranteedverandahonyourseven-nightcruise •DiscoverthenaturalhistoryofLakeLouise withaMountainHeritageGuide. •ATundraWildernessTouristheperfect chancetoseemoose,grizzlies,caribou, eaglesandwolvesinDenaliNationalPark. $17,995* pp,twinshare Saveupto $2,000percouple* Coach Rail Cruise 1 Stay(nights) CANADAANDALASKA2023 Spectacularnatural wonders, buzzingcities, iconic train journeysand premieroceancruising. DiscoverCanadaand AlaskainsignatureAPT luxury Coach Rail Cruise 1 Stay(nights) Coach Rail Cruise 1 Stay(nights) BookwithConﬁdence Flexiblebookings Safejourneys Alltakencareof CalgaryStampede andAlaskaCruise NaturalWondersofthe RockiesandAlaska RockiesOdyssey andAlaskaCruise

travel Tuesday, September 6, 2022 | 41

Continued from p39 Queen Anne refines the elegantCunard cruise experience. Photos /Supplied

Royal Caribbean: Iconofthe Seas RoyalCaribbean’s new shipand first-in-class Icon of the Seas continues to be shroudedin mystery. The line has gonetogreatlengthsto keep thisnew ship’s look and design under wraps but has dropped afew detailsand hints to excite cruisefans. Icon will be powered by LNG, to run more cleanly andreduceits carbon footprint. The line promises the shipwill be agame-changer in designand innovation.Royal Caribbean has some serious runs on the board when it comes to this, with the likes of the FlowRider surfing simulator and iFly indoor skydiving revolutionising the line’s Quantum class ships. For now, it’s acase of keeping your ears to the ground —and your eyes on HeraldTravel —and waiting for furtherannouncements.

Carnival Cruises: Carnival Jubilee Carnival Jubilee is the third ship in Carnival’s Excelclass,after MardiGras andCelebration, and continues the virtualthemepark at sea vibe. There’s arollercoaster, waterslides, candy store, loadsoffastfood outlets and pizza deliveryto anywhere on the ship. Family-oriented frombow to stern,Carnival Jubilee incorporatesloads of family-friendly dining and play options, includingthe Family FeudLive gameshow and SeussatSea.For adults wanting abreak, the Serenity Adult-Only Retreat is far enough away from the squeals of delightaround otherparts of the ship. Carnival Jubilee will be LNG powered and will begin sailing fromGalveston in 2023.

Silversea: Silver Nova Silver Nova is the epitomeofhigh-end cruising with acrew-to-guestratio that is almost 1:1, allowingfor almost pre-cognitiveservice. It’s alsopowered by LNG andhydrogen plus batterypower, something that will makeitone of the most environmentally friendly ships at sea and in port.Stylishly decorated with contemporary Scandinavian-inspireddecor, this all-balcony suite ship has aluxurious yet homely vibe andthere are plenty of welcoming areas for cruisers to sit and chat.Silver Nova will be the Silversea’s first Nova class vessel and will be the largest ship in the fleet when it debuts in early 2024. Why you’lllove it: You’re an environmentally conscious cruiserwith deep pockets. Why you won’t: Your idea of dressingup involves putting on aclean T-shirt and anice pair of shorts. silversea.com

Top:Oceania’s Vistaisthe firstoftwo new 1200-passenger Allura-class ships;above,Silversea’s Silver Nova.

Why youwon’t: If the thought of finding information and making arrangements on board using your phone and touch screens fills you with dread. royalcaribbean.com

Whyyou’lllove it: You adore theme parks and having fun with your family and friends. Whyyou won’t: You prefer aserene cruise experience without the pitterpatter of littlefeet carnival.com.au

On aship like this, even the most affordable roomsfeel incredibly luxurious.OceaniaVista will spend its time sailinginEurope,Canada and the US Why you’ll love it: You’rea passionate foodie who also loves cruising Why you won’t: Short cruises of less than seven days are your preferredoption. oceaniacruises.com

OceaniaCruises:Oceania Vista Oceania Vista is thefirstoftwo new 1200-passenger Allura-class ships for Oceania Cruises and will takeyourculinary fantasies to the next levelwith an onboardFrenchbakery and dazzlingarray of specialty dining options included in the fare. You mightneedsome stamina to work your way through all of the restaurantsbut it’s achallenge worth dedicating yourself to when the ship begins sailinginApril 2023. Every cabin has abalcony,rainforest shower andplenty of storage andthere’s anew accommodation category for solo travellers.

Why you’lllove it: Getting on acutting-edge, tech-savvy ship and learning how to use everythingsounds exciting.

anddiedin1975),was aformidableforce.Like manyofthewomenofhertimeandprofession, shewastough.Shehadtobe.Shebought property,paidoffpolicetooperate,advocatedfor herworkers’financialindependenceandthe righttotheirprivacyandrespect.Another madam,anAfricanAmericanfromArkansas, was afierceadvocateforsexworkers.Annie Watkins,knownaffectionatelyas“mama”by thosesheemployed,was anentrepreneurwho invested in anumberofhousesonCreekSt. Ketchikan’sstreetsarepavedwithrich, layeredstories.Untilthe1980s,therewasthe samenumberofchurchesasbars.OnCreekSt, thebrothelsarenowbrightlypaintedsouvenir shopswhereyoucanbuypensshapedlike humpbackwhales,finelycarvedbone-handled knives,teatowelsandjewellery.There’s ashop onthewalkwaywhereyoucansamplehot-and cold-smokedsalmon.SimplySalmonhasbeenin thesamefamilyoffisherpeopleforgenerations. Theysmokeit,canit,andsenditalloverthe worldfromthesalmoncapitalofworld. EveryoneinKetchikangoesback.Wayback. Themountainsgoup,wayup and thewaterfalls down,endlessly,relentlessly.

Below:Skagway'sshopspay homagetothegoldrushera ofthe1890s.

rangeofAlaskaitineraries

old andthestoriesareevenolder,writes SarahDaniell whereeagles Checklist

Inthe1800s,whenfishermen,minersand lumberjacks stoppedinKetchikanforrespite, recreationandcompany,Dolly’swaslitupwith thenamesofthe“girls” —Frenchie,Prairie ChickenandDeepWaterMary.AtDolly’s,no smoking,drinkingorswearingwasallowed. DollylivedatNumber24CreekStwithher boyfriend, Lefty. Dolly(whowasbornThelmaCopelandin1888

aleOmensonisleaningagainst thedooroftheoldbrothelinthe lateAprilsun,wearing ared featherboa,redsequinedtopand avelvetleopard-printjacket.It’s just after10.30am, alittleearlyfor business,butit’sthestartofthetouristseason andOmenson,curatorofwhatisnowDolly’s HistoricMuseum,isready.

42 | Tuesday,September6,2022 travel

She’sinherlate60snow,butwhenDalewas just 8yearsold,sheranawaytotheCreekSt red-lightdistrict.She’dmisbehavedandher motherorfatherhadtoldhershewas a“badgirl”. So,whensheshowedup,andtheinfamous madam,DollyArthur,askedherwhatshewas doingthere,shereplied,“Thisiswheretheytold methebadgirlsgo.”

Everyone’s invited. CHRISTCHURCH EVERYONE’S INVITEDTicketsonsalenow at nzcsw.co.nz NOV5–12Official Travel PartnerofNZCSW Cruising: USA »

ALASKA DETAILS NorwegianBlisssailsa fromSeattle,Washington. details,see

NorwegianCruiseLines’

AlongAlaska’sInnerPassagethebrothelsare

TheTlingitpeoplenamedthisplace Kitch-Kan, meaning“thethunderingwingsofaneagle.”The areaisshapedjustlikeaneagleinflight. AlthoughTongassNationalParkisthelargest temperaterainforestintheworld(7million hectares),thedefiningelementinKetchikanis thewater. Itrainsin Ketchikan,insoutheasternAlaska, about233days —orabout4m ayear. Thewindscangetupto128km/h —technically ahurricane —butCeleste,who drivesthebusfromtheportinto town,saysthat’sjusta regularstorm.

Forpricesandmore

Atthistimeofyear, wecanexpect14hoursof daylightbutinthedepths of aKetchikanwinter, inDecember,it’sseven.

AfterwanderingCreekSt, Iheadtothe TongassHistoricalMuseum,whichhasanextraordinarycurationofNativeAlaskanheritage andhistory,artefactsandphotographs. KetchikanCreekisthecentralthreadofthe town.Itwasusedasa summerfishingcampby theTlingit,whowerethefirstpeoplehere.By theturnofthe20thcenturywhennon-Native settlerscouldbenefitfromtherichresources, commercecame— goldrushes,salmoncanneries —theybecamerecipientsofthisancient knowledge.A noteatthemuseumsaysthis sharedknowledge“allowedthemtosurvive, gatherandexploittheseresources— sometimes alltoowell”. There’s agiantsteelsculptureof“Old Groaner” —a legendaryblackbearwhomoaned andmaraudedthecreekswhereprospectors searchedfor afortune.There’s aglasscasewith OldGroaner’sskull.Itmeasuresnearly27inches (68.5cm)ontheBooneandCrockettscale,the officialscaleofworldrecordanimals.

travel Tuesday,September6,2022 | 43

ThemorningNorwegianBlisssailsintoWard CovefromtheInsidePassageoftheNorthPacific, thereisnota whisperofwindand Ihoofitaround thetown,withmyjackettiedaroundmywaist.

Thehillsandmountains riseupsteeplyfrom thetinycitybuiltonstilts.If astaircasehasmore than100steps,it’sconsidered astreet.Thereare morethan1000islandshere,andmanypeople buildhousesonthemandcommutebyboatto schoolorwork.Many of thelocalsliveonboats andyoucankayakunderthetown. Abearcub onceshowedupatthelocalgrocery store,having strayedfromtheforest,andranriotintheaisles tillthe mothereventuallyshowedup.

BOOK NOW bluelagooncruises.com 0800 293766USEBOOKING CODE ADV20-BLC DISCOVERSMALLSHIPCRUISINGINFIJI DISCOVER SMALLSHIPCRUISINGINFIJI... 20% OFF EarlyBird Special 3, 4& 7Night, Fiji Island Cruises * T&Cs:*Validfor newbookingsatleast 6monthsinadvance,made fortravel from01 April2023inHibiscus&Orchidcabins.Discount appliestothe 2023-24twin/double sharecruisefares only (nofurtherdiscount appliestosingle or childfares). Forfullterms andconditionsincludingcancellation fees please refertowww.bluelagooncruises.com/specials/book-early-and-save CRUISEINCLUSIONS Allmealsandselected beverages Complimentarymini-bar • Swimwiththemantarays (May-Oct) • Moviesunderthestars • Guidedsnorkellingsafaris • Visitourprivateislandbeach onNanuyaLailaiIslandandthe sacredSawa-I-Lau caves • Beachpicnicsandguidedwalks • Snorkelwithreefsharks Mekeperformancesandnightly entertainment Top:DaleOmenson,curator ofDolly’sMuseum,in Ketchikan,Alaska;above,A streetcartakestouristsin Skagwayaroundthekey historicalpointsofinterest. Photos /SarahDaniell

Perhapsthemostextraordinary,compelling exhibitsarethecollectionofportraitstakenby FirstNationphotographerBenjaminAlfred Haldane.Theydefythecolonialnarrativeofa Christian“utopia”.Manyofthose portraitswere onglassnegativesandwererescued,fortunately, froma landfillin2003. Theytellanotherstorythroughanotherlens, ofthespiritof aplaceandpeoplethatremains againsttheoverwhelmingforcesofcommerce andcolonisation. Aswepulloutofport, Ilean on theship’srail andgazeatthecountlessislandsdottedthroughoutthecove.Manyhavetinyhousesthatseem, atthisdistance,tooflimsytowithstandthepower of ahurricane-gradewindandrelentlessrainfall. Agloriousfantasyland,butnotforthe faint-hearted. AttheRedOnionSalooninSkagway, Alaska,it’s aseaofcleavage,corsetsand bustles.Theyservehotchiliandcoldbeer andthewomenwaitersstufftipsdowntheir fronts.ThemenlooklikeSeattlehipsters. Periodically a“madam”willappearatthetop ofthestairsandholleraninvitationtocomeon upandhaveatour.Thesaloonwasalso abrothel inthe1890sgoldrush.Todayit’slike abawdy improvshow,packedwithtouristsandthe waitinglinesnakesalongthepavement. Afterwards, Iheadoutfor awanderandfinda bookstore,and acollectionofshortstories, The WayWinterComes,byAlaskanwriterSherry Simpson.Howdoesoneunderstandsuch aplace, muchlessexplainit,sheasks. Thatdaywe’dtakenthetrainalongtheWhite PassandYukonRoute,builtforthegoldrush. It’s amonumentalengineeringfeat.Backthen, forthethousandswhosteameduptheInside PassageandarrivedinSkagwaytobeginthe marchtofortuneupthetreacheroustrekto Klondike,itwouldhavebeenunimaginably torturous.TheRedOnionmust havebeenan oasisin adesertofunrelentingmiseryfor prospectors.Althoughnotforthe“ladies”who workedthereandsufferedextortionandabuse. Outthewindow,it’s apanoramaofriver,ice, mountains,snowandtrees.Impossibleto understand,dazzlingtoexperience.Themain economyherenowistourism,andthestreetsare alreadyteemingwithpeople. Ibuyfridge magnetsandchocolate,andamblebacktothe ship,passingboatsonthedrydock. Abright yellowstreetcargoesto“allpointsofinterest” andonthesideitsays:“SkagwayAlaskaStreet CarTour— nothinglikeitintheworld.”

We allmeet up towards sunsetfor awalk to one of the island’s landmarks, Sweetheart Rock, or Pu’u Pehe, abasalt formation with a tragic legendattached. The story goes that the rock was the secrethome of amaiden from Maui,Pehe, whoselove for awarrior from Lana’iwas forbidden.Pehe drowned in astorm andwhen the warrior found her body,he carried it to thetop of the rock, buried her and then jumped to his death.Her tomb can be seen on the top of the rock fromthe lookout opposite.

Cruising: USA »

The followingdays fall intoa blue-sky rhythm, punctuated by delicious meals and refreshing drinks after each excursion. When we’re at anchor, sometimes the shelf is lowered at the back of Safari Explorer so we can swim, kayak or paddleboard; there’s even ajumping platform which afew bravesouls hurl

The first day is land-basedand focused on Hawaiian culture,specifically that of an ancient part of northwest Molokai called Halawa Valley. We travel in vans 90 minutesnortheast on a narrow coastal road to meet GregSolatorio who, alongwith his father Pilipo the valley’s last remaining elder —isa traditional Hawaiian culture kumu,orteacher. He welcomesusonto their landwith ahoni (known by New Zea landers as ahongı¯). Some of us stay on to hear stories of thevalley’shistory, including its devastation in atsunamiin1946, how the family livesoff the grid using traditional methods of gathering and preparing food, andhow the Solatorios are doing their best to pass their culture on to futuregenerations. The rest of the groupgoonafour-hour hike through the fam ily’s private land, passingancient sites and crossing two rivers, to get to the beautiful Mo’oula Falls Our Lana’i day includesa couple of invigoratingsnorkels in the morning, includingone at adeep-sea ocean drop-off point nearits commercial seaport, Kaumalapau Harbour.Here, we see big schools of several varieties of butterflyfish as well as yellow tangs, trumpetfish,parrotfish,a few varieties of triggerfish, agelatinous octopus, lots of colourful cauliflower coraland even awhite-mouth morayeel. Later,the skiffs drop us at Manele Bay on the southern side of this tiny island, which is 98 per cent owned by American billionaire Larry Ellison, of Oracle fame.Wesplit up again,with some of our group choosing to spend the afternoon visiting the island’s cat sanctuary,established to keep hundredsof feral cats away from burrowing sea birds and now home to more than 600 healthy, happy cats.

Asmall-ship adventure delves into the world of Hawaii’s big and beautifulmarine life, writes Linda Meads ocean

“W elcome to the manta mosh pit,” ourguide, Imran, fromHawaii’s Kona Diving Com panysays. We’re arriving at The Campfire, a10m-deep areaof Garden Eel Cove off the coast of the BigIsland that’s as busyasAuckland’s Spaghetti Junction in rush hour. Dozens of diveboats are bobbing in the darkness. Powerfullights illuminate groups in black wetsuits and snorkel gear who are tentatively clinging on to ropes on the sides of modified surfboards. All of this traffic is here to see someofthe 100-strongmanta ray population off the island’s Kona Coast, whomustthinktheir Christmas dinnershave all come at once, almost every day of the year. Many of thisgroup return to feed at this special spot just off thecoast of the island’smain airport most nights of the week. The Big Island’s dive squads make it as easy as possible for them, through acombinationofelementsthat enhance their natural dining environment. Each snorkeller has aglow stick attached to their wetsuit zip so the guidescan keep track of their groups, while huge LED lights positioned on the ocean floor in avague circle —hence “The Campfire”— light the scenefrom below. These glowing orbs are interspersed by more black-clad humans wearing scuba tanksand masks, adding their streamsofbubbles to the scene’s visual cacophony Amid all of this chaos are nineenormous manta rays,someupto4mwide, performing graceful, balletic back flips as theyfeed. Theirterrifying-looking but completely harmless oval mouthsare wide open. They’re inhaling the plankton that has been attracted by the dive lights and caughtinthe current, powerless to do anything else but act as asortof sushitrain for the mantas’feeding pleasure. The plankton, lights and bubbles all combine to create an extra ordinary snow globe like effect swirling beneath us. We’reonthe final nightofa seven-night Hawaiian Seascapes cruisewith UnCruise Adventureswhichwe’d boarded in Molokai’s tiny Kaunakakai Harbour the previousSaturday before heading east for the Big Island, exploring Lana’iand Maui on the way. This is small-shipadventure sailing at its optimum.Thinkamaximum of 36 up-for anything guests across18comfortablecabins on UnCruise’s Hawaiianvessel,Safari Explorer, lookedafter by 16 multi-skilled,experienced crew.During the week we enjoy fantastic food focused on regional specialities,plenty of time on andinHawaii’s warmwatersand, best of all, alooseitinerary adjusted as requiredaccording to weather conditions or marine sightings so everyone on board— crew included— can get the most out of the eight days at sea. It’s educational too. Each night there’s amarine life presentation by one of the knowledgeable ExpeditionLeaders, Ben or Sophy, or,onManta Ray Day, by Ian fromKonaDiving Company. He joins us on boardtogive us arun downonthe biology and behaviours of the majestic creatures with whom we were about to spend 45 minutes in the water.

Top, on aUnCruise AdventureinHawaii there's plentyoftime for snorkellingand other activities; above, kayaking offthe coast of theHawaiian islands. Photos /UnCruise Peter West Carey

44 | Tuesday, September 6, 2022 travel

In aweofthe

Others spend time at the beach or wander around the souvenir shops and galleries of quaintLanai City, which is not acityatall, rather asmalltown square set around apark boasting dozens of tall Cook pinetrees.

Onseveraldaystherearekayakorskifftours historywithgeologyandbiology.Onemorning there’s afantastichourinthewaterwithmore than20seaturtlesat MalaWharf, awreckedpier onthewesternsideofMaui.

travel Tuesday,September6,2022 | 45

aroundpointsofinterest,combiningcultureand

*Conditionsapply.Pricesareperperson,inAustraliandollars,basedondoubleoccupancy,subjecttoavailability,includesalladvertiseddiscountsandcorrect attimeofprinting.Guestsarerequiredtobefully vaccinatedagainstCOVID-19attimeoftravel.Mediterranean’s IconicShoresbasedon14 February2024 departure.Theseoffers arevalidonnewbookingsmadebetween05August2022and31October2022unlesssoldoutprior.Forfulltermsandconditions visitviking.com NOKIDS |NOCASINOS|VOTED WORLD’SBEST 0800447913 VIKING.COM ORSEE YOURVIKINGTRAVEL AGENT MEDITERRANEAN’SICONICSHORES BARCELONA –ISTANBUL orviceversa 29 DAYS |23GUIDEDTOURS |8 COUNTRIES SETSAIL APR –SEP2023;FEB –AUG2024 From AU$15,295pp in Verandastateroom SAVE AU$2,800 percouple N Cruise OvernightinPort Mediterranean Sea Adriatic Sea Ionian Sea ITALY Venice Katakolon Dubrovnik Kotor CROATIA MONTENEGRO GREECE Aegean Sea Heraklion Istanbul Rhodes Crete Ephesus (Kuşadasi) Troy (Çanakkale) TURKEY Mediterranean Sea Rome (Civitavecchia) Naples Šibenik Sicily Messina Crotone BariSPAIN Barcelona Florence/Pisa (Livorno) MonteCarlo FRANCE MONACO Marseille Montpellier (Sète) Split Corfu (Kérkyra) Athens (Piraeus) ENJOY,IT’SALLINCLUDED •Privateverandastateroomwithking-sizebed •Guidedexcursionineachportofcall •Onboard mealsandbeverages;includingwine, beerandsoftdrinkswithlunchanddinner •Choiceof8diningoptions –nochargefor alternativediningvenues •Complimentary24-hourroomservice •Specialtycoffee,teaandbottled water •UnlimitedWi-Fi •AccesstoLivNordicSpafacilitiesincludingsauna, hydrotherapypoolandSnowGrotto •Culture Curriculum:Lecturesandperformances ofmusic,art,dance,cookingandhistory •Complimentaryself-servicelaundrettes •Allonboardgratuities,portchargesandtaxes •Nocreditcardsurcharges •Industry-leadingHealth &SafetyProgram ATHENS,GREECE TH ANNIVERSARYSALE BARCELONA TO ISTANBUL |23GUIDEDTOURS |8 COUNTRIES OM AU$15,295 PERPERSON Checklist HAWAII DETAILS Aseven-nightHawaiian Seascapesitinerary aboardthe36-passenger SafariExplorerstartsfrom US$5595pp($9176),twinshare.Everythingis includedexceptforflights, crewgratuity(about US$250perguest)and portfeesandtaxes. uncruise.com Top,a night-timesnorkelwithmantaraysisoneofthehighlightsofa UnCruiseAdventureintheHawaiianIslands;above,sailingalongthe coastofWestMaui,HawaiionSafariExplorer,anUnCruiseAdventures ship. Photos/ GettyImages;UnCruise;MichelVerdure themselvesoffdoingtricksmid-air.

Oneafternoonisdedicatedtofindingwhalesin thewatersaroundMaui,Hawaii’shotspotfor humpbacks.“They’remyfavouritecreaturesever. I’veprobablybeenon3500-3600whalewatchesand I’llprobablystillbethemostexcitedpersonon board,”ExpeditionLeaderBentellsus.It’satleast twoweeks tooearlyintheseasontoseemany, hesays,butwe’rerewardedwiththeawesome sightofa competitionpodfightingover afemale.

Allofusareoutonthedeckwithbinoculars glued,watchingnatureatitsmostvisceral.There areheadlunges,thereisdorsalfinandtail slappingbythefemaleandthere’s alotofgrunting andaggressivebubbleblowingfromthemales. Thereisblood.We’llneverknowwhowonbecause it’sstillgoingaswemotorslowlyaway,leaving themassivecreaturestocontinuetheirbattlein private. ThemorningofMantaRayDaystartsoff promisingly,withbreakfastdelayedduetothe sightingof apodofrareBlainville’sbeaked whales.Atlunchtime,weseeourthirdvarietyof dolphin —pantropicalspotted,whichpropelthemselvesat90degreesseveralfeetintotheair.Ben isabsolutelyfizzingandtellsustheafternoonwill bespentindeep oceanwatersoffthecoastofthe BigIslandtoseewhatother“bigcritters”wecan find.Bingo —straightaway apodofshort-finpilot whalesappears,accompaniedbyanoceanicwhitetipshark,swiftlyfollowedbya lonefemalereef mantarayfeeding.It’s agoodsignforlater,Sophy says. Andsoitturnsout.

Cruising: Family holiday JoannaBooth is sweptinto the worldofDisney on new cruiseship Wish, ahead of its firstsailing

Walkinginto the Star Wars: Cargo Bay area feels like stepping intoafilm set. It’s ashadowy, atmospheric spacefull of buttons to press and switches to throw,the belly of aspacecraft filled with ahost of cute intergalacticcreatures that children can learn to handle —scaly wortts, furry loth cats and big-eyed porgs. Again, Danny Handke called in the movie team to makeit entirely authentic.Youngerchildrenaren’t forgotten, with aMickey-themed playground and the Fairytale Hall,full of craft activities inspired by arange of Disney princesses. Separate clubs serve as hangouts for both tweens and teens, and there’s anurseryfor totsfrom six months to three years —the last being the only option to come at extracost. There’s plentyfor the family to do together, too. Each evening seestwo performances of West-End qualityshows—performances on Wish include The Little Mermaid,complete with

46 | Tuesday, September6,2022 travel

TheGrand Hall on board theship.

Immersive magic Nowhereismore immersive than the Oceaneer Club. Accessed via aslide (parents can chicken out and use the stairs, though I’d recommend takingthe plunge),this expansive venueputs all other kids’ clubs in the shade. In the Marvel Super Hero Academy they can train with Spiderman, Black Panther, Iron Man and Captain Marvel, designing their own suitsand tech that they canthen use to battle virtual baddies.

WISHUPON A rossingthe pool deck on my way to breakfast, Ispotted twomice. On most cruise ships this would be acause for alarm, but on Disney Wishbumpinginto Mickey and Minnieispar for the course. In fact, it’speopled by awhole host of colourful characters from thebig screen. Iwas photobombedbyPluto in the lift, given advice on the correctweb-shooting pose by Spiderman in the kids’ club, and sipped luminous, smoking cocktails in the StarWars: Hyperspace Lounge. This truly out-of-this-world barisaccessed via asliding portal and its giant “window”looks out on to shifting scenes fromgalaxies far, far away which were specially designed for the ship by the team from Lucasfilm. DisneyWish is the fifth in the DisneyCruise Line fleet (afterDream,Fantasy, Wonderand Magic), launching into apost-pandemic world hungryfor experiences. For all thosefamilies who spent muchoflockdown plugged into the DisneyPlus streamingservice, it’s an opportunity to set sail into aparallel universe wheretheir favourite fictional worldsare brought to life. The dining choices aloneare areminder of the breadth of the Disneybrand. In Arendelle,our Nordic feast was served with song and dance fromall the Frozen favourites, courses interspersed with table-side visits from Ana, Elsa anda charming animatronic Olaf the snowman. Under the low,blue-tingedlights of Worlds of Marvel, Iate bao bunsstuffed with pork belly as the screeninthe wall lit up with original, interactive footage filmed purely for Wish, with Paul Rudd, Evangeline Lilly,Anthony Mackie andBrie Larsenreprising their roles as AntMan, The Wasp, Captain America and Captain Marvel. Wittyasidesfizzed, scenery exploded, and green screentechnology showed the superheroes getting up to highjinks right on the decksofthe Wish Even the onboard icecream par lour—ina nod to themood-altering qualities of sugar —ispeopled by Inside Out’s emotional cast; order your cone next to the leaping yellow statue of Joy and pay by raging red Anger Wish is the most completely realised Disneyship yet, with every single experience and detaildesigned arounda movie, fromHook’s Barbery, whereyou can get a shave in awood-panelled,vaguely piratical venuethat also serves craft cocktails,tothe oneof-a-kind WishTowersuite, atwo-storeystateroom set in the ship’s funnelwith luxurious decor that references the South Pacific world of Moana This comprehensive approach proved particularly challenging when it came to the pool deck, as senior creativedirector of Walt Disney ImagineeringDanny Handke explained: “How can you add astory to awaterslide?” Expertise from the wider Disneybrand cametothe rescue, with the Mickeyshorts team collaborating on nine show scenes for the Aqua Mouse water coaster. The mixture of screensand splashes works well, and what’s being branded as the“first Disneyattraction at sea” is afast and fun race pepperedwith cartoon antics through water-filled tubes that curve around the top deck and even project over the sideofthe ship.

INTERIOR BALCONY from $1,649 from $2,419 from $2,259 from $3,029 from $2,689 from $3,459 Save upto25%offlaunch fares# Receive upto $150 onboard spendingmoneyperstateroom whenbookingPrincess Plus orPrincessPremier fares.

PapuaNew Guinea CoralPrincess® 10-11 nights SouthPacificOcean Coral Sea AUSTRALIA PAPUANEW GUINEA Brisbane Rabaul K riw na Is and Conflict slands K tava Alotau M lneBay)

INTERIOR BALCONY from $1,099 from $1,539 from $1,489 from $1,929 from $1,759 from $2,199 Save upto20%offlaunch fares# Receive upto $75 onboardspendingmoneyperstateroom whenbookingPrincess Plus orPrincessPremier fares. 2022 DEPARTURES 10NovA 28Nov 2023 DEPARTURE 24NovA 2024 DEPARTURE 5FebA *Faresare perpersontwinsharebasedon28/11/22sailing. Higherfaresmayapply to otherdepartures. A: Portorder varies.

2022 DEPARTURE 17 Nov 2023 DEPARTURES 26 Jan,18DecA

Queensland CoralPrincess® 7 nights SouthPacific AUSTOcean RALIA Brisbane AirlieBeach Port Douglas Cairns WillisIsland G a B e Re Faresare twin shareppfrom*

*Faresareperpersontwinsharebasedon11-night26/1/23 sailing.Higherfaresmayapplytootherdepartures. A:10-nightduration.Itiineraryandports vary.

thepassenger.Accommodationprior to embarkationand afterdisembarkingthecruise andtransfersbetweenthe airport, hotelandcruise terminalareatpassenger’sown expense. BOOK NOW |Visit your travel agent 0800 780717 |princess.com GET UP TO 30% offlaunch fares# PLUS UP TO $300 onboardspendingmoney perstateroom whenbooking PrincessPlus orPrincessPremier includesdrinks,wiﬁ &more Australia& NewZealand RoyalPrincess® MajesticPrincess® 13 nights AUSTRALIA NEWZEALAND Tauranga Auckland Picton Sydney SouthPacific Ocean Tasman Sea Dunedin (PortChalmers) Christchurch (Lyttel on) Hobart Melbourne Tasmania FiordlandNationalPark ScenicCruising Faresare twinshareppfrom* INTERIOR BALCONY from $1,759 from $2,749 from $2,479 from $3,469 from $2,979 from $3,969 Save upto 30%offlaunch fares# Receive upto $150 onboardspendingmoneyperstateroom whenbookingPrincess Plus orPrincessPremier fares. 2023 DEPARTURES 16 Jan,29JanB 2024 DEPARTURES 18 FebA,2 MarB *Faresareperpersontwinsharebasedon16/1/23 sailingonMajesticPrincess®.Higherfaresmayapply to otherdepartures. A:Itineraryandports vary. B:Operatesinreverseorder.Itineraryandports vary. Kyushu Spring Flowers DiamondPrincess® 9 nights PaciﬁcOcean SOUTH KOREA JAPAN

*Faresare perperson, in NZD, in completetwinaccommodation basedonthe leadcategoryforeachstateroom type at timeofpublication,inclusiveofall discounts, taxes, fees and portexpenses (which aresubject to change). Campaign commences 01 September2022 andendson15December2022.#Savingsare basedonlaunchfaresreleasedforeach itinerarybetween October 2020 andJuly2022.Savingsvarybystateroom category, fare type anditinerary.Offer is notavailableonWorldCruiseor RoundAustralia itineraries. Supplements applyforother stateroomcategories. Faresbasedonspeciﬁcdeparturedatesonly.Higher faresmayapplytootherdeparturedates.Princess Cruiseshas setasidea reasonablenumber of staterooms which are available at thesefares.Once thesestateroomsare sold,faresmayvary. Validfornewbookingsandnot combinablewithany other offer. Alloffers aresubject to availability. Some oceanview stateroomshave obstructedviews.Chargesapplyfor shore excursionsandspecialty dining. To be readinconjunctionwiththe Bookingand Passage Contractwhichpassengerswillbebound by.A creditcard surcharge of 1.1% forVisaandMastercardand 2.75%for AMEX,and a1.0%surcharge forPayPal will applytodirect bookings madethroughour websiteorcall centre.Nosurchargesapplytodebit cards. Travel agentsmaycharge additionalfees -checkwith your travelagent. Vaccinationrequirementsapply.Government guidelinesmayresultinarequirementtoquarantine during or afteryourcruiseand mayrestrictyourability to participateinshore tours or disembark theship atportswevisitduringyourcruise.See our Health Protocolsformore information. Guidelinesare subject to change without notice andassuch,ouractual cruise offeringsmay vary from thedescriptions provided andimagesdisplayed. Cruise itinerariesare notguaranteed.Carnivalplc tradingasPrincess CruisesABN 23 107998 443. Princess Standardisthe cruise fareonlywithoutany inclusions.~PrincessPlusfare is valid forthe ﬁrsttwo guests in the stateroom. PrincessPlus fareincludesthe cruisefare packagedwith thePlusBeverage Package andWi-Fi.^^PrincessPremier fare is valid forthe ﬁrsttwo guests in thestateroom.PrincessPremier fareincludesthe cruise farepackagedwiththe Premier Beverage Package,Four-DeviceWi-Fi,Specialty Dining Credits,Photo Package andPrincessPrizescredit. Seehttps://www.princess.com/cruise-deals-promotions/au/plus-premiercruise-packages/for full details, termsand conditions foreach faretype.^Onboard spendingmoneyisper stateroomand is appliedtothe ﬁrst2 passengers in astateroom when booking aPrincessPlusorPrincessPremierfareonly;BookingsonPrincess Standardwillnot be eligiblefor OBC. Offerisnot availableon WorldCruiseorRoundAustralia itineraries. Amount variesby voyagelength asspeciﬁed up to $150 perstateroom, refertoprincess.comfor details. Onboardspendingmoneyexpiresattheconclusionofyourcruise,isnot transferable,non-refundable,notredeemablefor cashandcannot be used atthemedicalcentre or casino.PrincessEZair Flightbookings will be subject to Princess EZAirTermsand Conditions availableinthe Bookingand PassageContract.Anyfeescharged bytheairlineforchanges,cancellations,excessbaggage,andotheradditionalcharges paidby Nagasaki Beppu Kagoshima Tokyo (Yokohama) Honshu Jeju Hakata (Fukuoka) Miyazaki (Aburatsu) Faresare twinshareppfrom* INTERIOR BALCONY from $1,909 from $2,939 from $2,399 from $3,439 from $2,749 from $3,789 Save upto15%offlaunch fares# Receive upto $75 onboardspendingmoneyperstateroom whenbookingPrincess Plus orPrincessPremier fares. 2023 DEPARTURE 15Mar *Faresareperpersontwinsharebasedon15/3/23sailing.

Faresare twinshareppfrom*

Checklist DISNEY WISH DETAILS Foritinerariesand moreinformationon DisneyCruises,see disneycruise. disney.go.com STAR DisneyWishisthefifthin theDisneyCruiseLinefleet; below,Set Sailona Wishis thesignaturesailaway celebrationontheupper deck. Photos/ Supplied costumesmadefromrecycledoceanplastic,and ashow createdfortheshipcalled Seasthe Adventure —plus thereareswimmingpools,deck parties,familyquizzesandchallenges.The most elaborate, UnchartedAdventure,is avoyagelengthvirtualscavengerhunt. Adultsonly WhileWishisundoubtedlychild-friendly,it’salso hometomore gentlythemedadults-onlyspaces that’llgiveparents atreatwhilethekidsare occupiedelsewhere.A quietpool,sundeckand bararetuckedawayoverlookingthesternofthe ship, abeautifulrainforest-styledspawithan indoorandoutdoorrelaxationgardensitsinthe bowandtrioofelegant,child-freevenuesare looselybasedaround BeautyandtheBeast.A refinedFrenchmenucraftedbyMichelin-starred ArnaudLallementisservedinthewhiteandgold splendourofEnchante;Palois asteakhousewith darker,moodierdecor,andTheRose achic barwithexpansiveoceanviews. Theseareasandthecomfortable,spaciousstateroomsbearsomeresemblanceto amoreconventionalship but,asPresidentofDisneySignature ExperiencesThomasMazloumtells me,“thisisanythingbut atraditional cruise.We’reanentertainmentcompany;wejusthappentohave afew ships.It’sstorytelling,it’simmersive —it’sDisney.” Wishwillspendthewholeyearbased inPortCanaveral,sailingthreeandfournightBahamascruiseswithcallsat Disney’sprivateisland,CastawayCay.It’sthe perfectlink-upwiththethemeparksin Orlando —anextra,salt-scenteddoseof Disneyenchantmentonthehighseas.The focusisn’tsomuchseeingtheworldastaking aholidayinanalternativereality.Withthe currentstateofglobalaffairs, Icanseethe attraction.— TelegraphGroupLtd

DISNEYWISH 18 4400 1966 30 231 40 5000 86 30,000 10,000

Thelengthofthehaironthe sternsculptureofRapunzel, inmetres Thenumberofpiecesofart aroundtheship Thesquarefootageofthe WishTowerSuite,setinthe ship’sfunnel Thepercentageofcrewwho arewomen Thelengthinmetresofthe AquaMousewatercoaster Thenumberofflavoursin theJoyfulSweetsicecream parlour ThecostinUSdollarsofthe mostexpensivedrinkin Star Wars:HyperspaceLounge Theaveragenumberof nationalitiesrepresentedby DisneyCruiseLinedining roomstaff LEDlightsfeatureinthe DisneyWishGrandHall Thenumberofgallonsof usedcookingoilrecycled fromthegalleyseachweek

INNUMBERS travel Tuesday,September6,2022 | 47

ﬂytoCopenhagen for ahotelstay.SoakupthevibrantatmosphereinTivoliGardensorindulgein a ﬁne-diningexperienceattheMichelin-starredNoma,oneofthemostfamous restaurantsintheworld. NorthernLights adventurevoyageswith Hurtigruten Onboardeachshiparetheirownexpedition teamsprovidinginterestinglectures,insideas wellasoutonthesundeckoftheships, make this an exciting and educational journey. *NorthernLightsPromise -Receivea FREEHurtigrutenvoyageiftheNorthernLights donotmakeanappearance. (T’s &C’sapply) NorthernLights Experience Asyoucruisethroughthe icysapphire watersofthe Norwegiancoastandthewinter wonderlandoftheArcticCircle, you’llbecaptivatedbytheviews oftoweringgreen-cloakedcliﬀs, emeraldwaterfalls,andrare majesticwildlifeonyourhunt forthemagicalNorthernLights. Marvelattheshadesofgreen, pinkandpurpledanceacrossthe midnightbluesky. 16 Nights |Departing Jan2023-Mar 2024 HotelStays 2night four-starhotelstayatthe ScandicVictoria Osloor similar with breakfast 1night four-starstayinBergenatthe ZanderK Hotelorsimilarwith breakfast 2night four-starstayinCopenhagenatthe Tivoli Hotelorsimilarwith breakfast Cruise 11 nightcruise of Norwayandthe Arcticon board Hurtigrutenwith allmeals English-speakingtour leaderonboard *NorthernLightsPromise -Receivea FREEHurtigrutenvoyageiftheNorthernLights donotmakeanappearance (T’s &C’sapply) Explore theNorwegian fjords Embracethebreathtakingbeautyofthe spellbindingNorwegianfjords, alandpeppered withcascadingwaterfalls,picturesquevillages andice-scatteredcliﬀtops. This amazing holidayincludes: NO RT HE RN LI GH TS PR OM ISE * NorthernLights DiscoveryCruise &ScandinaviaStays 16NIGHTS FROMONLY $6,899PP^ INCFLIGHTS BOO KN OW FOR JAN 20 23 -M AR 2024 PRICES fr POLAR INSIDE fr POLAR OUTSIDE fr ARCTIC SUPERIOR fr 29JAN2023 $6,899pp SoldOutSold Out 26FEB2023 $6,999pp SoldOutSold Out 29OCT2023 $7,299pp $8,299pp $9,299pp 18NOV2023 $6,999pp $7,999pp $8,999pp 15DEC2023 $7,199pp $8,199pp $9,199pp 06JAN2024 $7,499pp $8,499pp $9,499pp 05FEB2024 $7,799pp $8,799pp $9,799pp 07MAR2024 $7,999pp $8,999pp $9,999pp ALLFLIGHTS,TAXES &TRANSFERSINCLUDED Tobookcall (09)9412534 OpeningHours:MontoFri:10am -8pm |Sat &Sun:11am -7pm imagineholidays.co.nz TermsandConditionsapply,forfulldetailspleasevisitimagineholidays.co.nz.AllpricesshowninNZDollars.Pricesareperpersonbasedon 2adultssharing acruisecabinandinclude ﬂights fromAuckland.^PricingbasedonPolarInsidegradeon29January2023departure.Creditcardschargedat1.5%,ifpayingbyAMEX achargeof2.5%willbeadded.ABNnumber48614987718. Pricesarecorrectatthetimeofprintandaresubjecttochange.Mainimageisintendedforillustrativepurposesonly. Bookwith Conﬁdence Fullyprotected|Exceptionalservice&expertise |Amazingvalue Great

Oslo,thecapitalandmostpopulouscityofNorwayiswhereyourholidaybegins. Enjoytwonightsinthisfabulouscitythat’sknownforitscutting-edgearchitecture before ﬂyingtoBergenforanovernighthotelstay. Fromhere,you’llembarkyourHurtigrutenshipandsetsailalongthestunning sceneryofsnow-cappedmountainsandcascadingwaterfalls.Passingnumerous, picturesquespotsalongtheway,you’llbeabletodiscoverdelightfultreasuresand witnessthephenomenalNorthernLights dancingacrossthemidnightblueskies,on yourjourneythroughspectacularScandinaviaandthefantasticfjords. TheterraingetsevermoreimpressiveasyoupassintotheicyrealmoftheArctic Circle.Watchforsheergranitecliﬀsandsoaringseaeaglesasyousavourthe delightsofvillageslikeBrønnøysundandtinyMehamn.AtTromsø,discoverthe largestcityinnorthernNorway,wherethewoodenhousesdatebacktothe 18thcentury. YourcruiseendsbackinBergenwhereyou’lldisembarkand

48 | Tuesday,September6,2022 travel Discover theadventurer within youduring staysina trio of NorthernEurope’s ﬁnest cities andaHurtigrutenvoyageasyou seek outthe magicalNorthernLights.

Before you leave home Whether yourgrandkids are tots or teens, setting afew ground rules before leaving homewill help to avoid misunderstandings that could spoil the holiday mood. Are your grandchildren allowed to have friends back to the cabin?Can they join their kid’s clubfriends for dinner sometimes? If their parents are usually strict aboutthingslike set bedtimes and eating dinner as afamily, relaxing the rules alittle is worth considering on acruise. Afterall, you are on holiday.

With an excellent activity programme divided into age-appropriate groups, spacious cabins across all room categories and staff who go out of their way to make kidsfeel welcome, yourgrandkids will enjoy this casually stylish cruise experienceasmuchasyou do. celebritycruises.com

lists so youdon’t miss out on thesespecialdeals.

Your grandkids mightneeda holiday after their holiday on Royal Caribbean with activities such as ice skating, bumper cars, onboard surfing and iFly skydiving included in the fare.For something less adventurous,enjoy the 360-degree views from the North Star viewing capsule. royalcaribbean.com.au

Princess Cruises’ ships offer enough luxury for discerning grandparents and enough fun to keepkids of all ages entertained at the Discovery Channel themed kids club. You can also catch amovie under the starswith complimentary popcorn or enjoy ameal together in the main dining room. princess.com

Things to do on board Cruising withgrandchildrenoffers the perfect mix of spending timetogether and apart,with plentyofonboardfacilities available to ensure you all have fun. The youthprogrammeson cruiseships aren’t just for littlekids, with ageappropriate hang-out spaces and activities available for up to 17-year-olds. There are things you can enjoy together as well, such as mini-golfon the upper deck, trivia games, or watching amovie while you bob aroundinthe pool.Don’t rule out tryinga few of the more adventurous onboard activitiestoo. Many suchasthe zipline on P&O Cruises andthe iFly skydivingsimulatorand bumper cars on RoyalCaribbean ships are suit able for most ages and abilities.

t’s no wonder grandparents can’t get enough of cruisingwith their grandchildren.Itispossible to visit multiple cities —oreven multiple countries affordably and with ease plusyou only have to unpack once. Whether you cruise close to homeorhead overseas, you’re sure to have agreattrip.

If you are planning on cruising duringthe school holidays, it’s agood idea to book soonerrather than later. Although it’s possible to pick up last minute deals, you’ll usually get abetter price by booking early. Family-friendlylines often sell out well in advance duringthe school holidays so don’t leave it too late. Somelines such as Royal Caribbean and P&O Cruises offer Kids Cruise Free deals thatare usually valid duringthe school holidays. Sign up to cruiseline mailing

Australia and New Zealand cruises are smooth sailing as there is no need to learn anew language. Cruising in Europe is agreatway to experience several different countriesinthe one trip and offers peace of mindfor grandparents who may be apprehensiveabout visiting farflung destinationswith kids in tow English-speaking cruise staff, familiar onboard cuisine and sleeping in the same comfortable “floating hotel” each night is the perfect way to softenany culture shock. Someone else takes care of thecookingand cleaning, and you can even enjoy anight or two “off duty” while your grandkids have fun at the kids club. If you’rethinking about taking your first cruisewith your grandkids —ordreaming about goingonanother —thiscomprehensive guide provides plenty of information and inspiration.

CarnivalCruiseLines

Where to go Decidingwhere to cruise with grandchildren is usually dictated by two main things: your budget and how old yourgrandkids are. SouthPacific cruises are affordable and tendtobeahit with kids of all ages. New Zealandhas activities like jetboating that appeal to tweens and teens. Ports such as Kusadasi in Turkey, home to the sprawling Ephesus site, let kids engagewith history in an active, hands-on way. Young children maynot have the patience and staminafor long day tours (and youmay noteither), so try to avoid itineraries with ports that involve long drives to the city andpopular touristsites.

CelebrityCruises

5CRUISE LINES YOUAND YOUR GRANDKIDS WILL LOVE

Upbeat and playful with asophisticated sense of fun,P&O offers excellent value. Some shipsinthe fleethave kiddiewaterslides,others have ateen club withVRgaming or aprivate pool area. Choose aship based on the age of your grandchildren and get ready for fun pocruises.co.nz

Doingthe paperwork Anyone who is not the parentorlegal guardian of anychild travellingwith themisusually required to present on boarding anotarisedletter signed by at leastone of thechild’s parents. This is just aformality but it’s an important one if you wanttoboard your ship without problems.

ACCESS ALL AGES

P&OCruises

Check your cruise line’s website for detailed information on what documentation youneed to present at the pier.

PrincessCruises

This affordablefamily friendly line offersplentyofentertainmentfor youngsters and the young at heartwith fabulous waterslides and awaterpark for younger kids, dancelessons, pool games, plus thefun of singing and dancing waitersinthe main dining roomevery night. carnival.com.au

Cruising just mightbethe ultimate multi-generational holiday, writes Tiana Templeman Photos/ GettyImages

RoyalCaribbean

Having fun onshore Organised ship’s tours are generallyaimed at older adults andmost kids quickly get tired of waiting for an entirebusload of passengers to catch up duringwalking tours and otheractivities. It can be better(and more affordable) to arrange yourown activities in port. Getyour grandkids involved in the planning process so they haveasay aboutwhat to see and do on your cruise. If youdon’t want to hand overfull control, provide two activity optionsateachport and let them choosetheir favourite.

HeritageExpeditions:Grand PacificOdyssey Spend28-nightstravellingfromAucklandto YokohamainJapanonthisdiverseitinerary whichdepartsonMarch20,2023andcrossesthe TropicsofCapricornandCancer, andtheEquator.Alongwith plentyoftimetorelax,you willvisitdiversedestinationsincludingNorfolk Island’sformerpenal colony,Noumeain NewCaledonia,remotevillagesinthe SolomonIslandsand Chichi-jimaIslandin Japan,knownasthe “Galapagosofthe Orient”.Addtothat, snorkellingonpristine coralreefs,learning aboutconservationprojectsandWorld WarIIhistory,andyou’resetfor ajourney likenoother. Pricedfrom$17,230pp. heritage-expeditions.com

CelebrityCruises:TasmaniaCruise SetsailfromSydneyonCelebrityEclipsefor afive-nightround-tripcruisetoTasmaniaon March10,2023,withanovernightstayin Hobartsoyoucanmakethemostofyourtime inTasmania’scharmingcapital.Theship docksat awharfintheheartoftown,making thisitineraryidealforthosetravellingwith olderoryoungerpassengersasthere’snoneed toboard atenderboat.Headbacktotheship for abitetoeatortofreshenupwheneveryou like. WithimpressiveWorldHeritagesites, someofwhichharkbacktoAustralia’sconvict days,andwonderfulfoodandwine,there’s plentytokeepyouentertained. Pricedfrom$1078pp. celebritycruises.com/nz

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etsetforanexcitingsummer withAustraliaandNewZealandcruisedeparturesgalore. Fromanexpeditioncruise aroundtheremoteislandsof JapantoclassicNew Zealand coastalitinerariesandanaffordablejaunt aroundtheGreatBarrierReef,thefollowing cruiseswillfuelyourwanderlust.

Left:HeritageExpeditions'Grand PacificOdysseyis a28-nightvoyage fromAucklandtoYokohama in Japan. Photo /Supplied

Cruising: AustraliaandNZ » Homeandaway Thevarietyofcruisescomingupinourcorneroftheworld hassomethingforalltastes,writes TianaTempleman

travel Tuesday,September6,2022 | 51

P&OCruisesAustralia:ComedyCruise Laughandtheworldlaughswithyou,especially ifyou’reon aP&OCruisesComedyCruise.If you’regame,youcanevengetuponstageand tell afewjokesattheComedyGongShowwhich isjudgedbytheprofessionalsonboard.While notallofthecomedyshowsaregoingtobeto yourtaste,thereissuretobesomethingtotempt youonthedailyprogrammealongwiththeusual P&Omusicalperformances,showsandtrivia. Book aComedyCruiseonPacificExploreroropt forP&O’snewestships,PacificEncounterand PacificAdventure,bothofwhichhavethenew ByronBeachClub,anexclusiveretreatwithits ownoutdoorpoolandpoolsidemenu. PricedfromNZ$282pp. pocruises.co.nz TrueNorth:KimberleyWaterfalls Toomanywaterfallsareneverenoughonthis 10-nightKimberleyWaterfallscruisefrom

T&C’s:*Save up to $600 per couple payment is due 60 days before de whichever dates comes ﬁrs withdrawn Mataranka,Northern Territory on) onselected AAT Kings tours Fornewbookings, booked by Sep 30, 2022, for select travel departures from Apr 1 2023 Mar 31 2024 Full d only bookings 90 days before departure for tours including rail (AAT Kings standard policy) or by Feb 28 2023 to be eligible for the discount ot combinablewith any other discounts Discounts are subject to availability at the time of booking with limited seats available Offers may be hout notice Other standard bookingconditions apply Contact your travel agent or speak to our experts for more details Updated Aug 8 2022 ($300 per pers parture forlan t Theoffer is n at any time wit Askyourtravelagentor call0800456100today. aatkings.com/wild percoupleon selectedAustralia& NewZealand tours SAVE $600* Continuedonp52 Setsailforan in-depth explorationofFiordlandandthe SouthCoastofNewZealandon aneight-nightexpeditioncruise onboardCoralAdventurer. Photos/ Supplied;123rf CoralExpeditions:FiordlandandtheSouth Coast Setsailforanin-depthexploration ofFiordland andthesouthcoastofNewZealandonaneightnightexpeditioncruiseonboardCoralAdventurer.Thisitineraryventuresofftheusual touristtrailtoexploreThompsonSound,spend twodaysbirdwatchingandhikingonRakiura (StewartIsland) and spot aplethoraofpenguins includingFiordlandcrestedpenguins,yelloweyedpenguinsandlittlepenguins.You’llalso havethechancetoseeNewZealandfurseals, spermwhales,anddusky and Hector’sdolphins. Ontheship,you’llenjoya speciallycuratedwine listfeaturingtopdropsfromHawke’sBayand Marlborough,withwineatlunchanddinner includedinyourfare. Pricedfrom$8100pp. coralexpeditions.com

Continued from p51

Princess Cruises: GreatBarrier Reef Explore the Great Barrier Reef on asevennightround-trip cruisefrom Brisbane onboard CoralPrincess,with multiple departures available. Spend the day in AirlieBeach with its impressive choiceofactive shore excursions such as Segway tours,jet-ski safaris and trips to Whitehaven Beach. Cairnsisfamous for being the gateway to the Great Barrier Reef but this tropical portisalso home to oneofthe world’s most significant rainforests and the Kuranda Scenic Railway, which opened to passengers in 1891. Port Douglas is the perfect port to kick back and relax Priced from $1220pp. princess.com

Priced from $10,320pp. ponant.com

Viking Cruises: Komodo and the Australian Coast With alarger than usual number of ports for a repositioning cruise, this 16-night tripfrom Sydney to Bali (and vice versa)isideal for active travellers who enjoyexploringand relaxing in equal measure. Withjust afew sea days sprinkled throughout the itinerary,thereare plenty of opportunities to get off the ship and explore destinations such as the Whitsundays,Cairns, ThursdayIsland, Komodo Island and Darwin wherethe shipdocks for an overnight stay.If you prefer asereneadults-only ambience, more time in port and an all-inclusive cruise experience,this relaxingyet adventurous itinerary has multiple departures available in 2022 and2023.

Priced from $10,900pp. vikingcruises.com.au Azamara: Australia Intensive AzamaraQuestsets sail fromSydney to Perth for an in-depth 13-night exploration of Australia’s southern coastline in December this year. Alongwith calling at capital cities like Melbourne, Adelaide and Perth,this unique itinerary also visits lesser-knownports such as Kangaroo Island andPortland,aseaside town that’s famous for beingVictoria’s first European settlement. AzamaraQuest carries just fewer than 700 passengers and offers aboutique yet affordable cruise experience with immersive itineraries and afriendly on-boardvibe. Priced from$4195pp. azamara.com

Cruising: Australia and NZ

Ponant: Ancient Cultures of Papua New Guinea Ventureoff the beatentrack in style on a10-night adventure cruise through Melanesia onboard the luxuriousLeSoleal, departing Cairns in November this year. Hike to the DeiDeigeothermal hot springs on remote Dobu Island in Papua New Guinea and snorkel pristine coral reefs at Roderick Bay, Ghizo Islandand Njari Island in the Solomons whichfeel as if theyare yours alone to explore. After the ship arrives in Honiara,the Solomon Islands’ capital, you’ll have time to delve intothe city’s famous World War II history beforethe includedflight back to Brisbane

Regent Seven Seas:AucklandtoSydney See New Zealand in style on a14-nightcruise fromAuckland to Sydney(or viceversa)on Regent Seven Seas’ 750-passenger ship, Seven SeasExplorer.With multiple departures availablein2022 and 2023, thiscruise visits half a dozen must-see New Zealand ports such as Well ington, Akaroa, Dunedin, Napier, Auckland and the Bay of Islands. Aday spent cruising scenic Fiord land National Park andanovernight stay in Melbourne add yet more reasons to do this scenic journey. With up to 46 excursions includedinyour fare, it’s easy to get out andsee thesights. Unlimited drinks Wi-Fiand gratuities are also included Priced from $17,930pp. rssc.com

APT: Coastal Victoria Discovery Experience the untamed beauty of Victoria’s ruggedcoastline on afour-night round-trip cruisefrom Melbourne that offers arare chance to see The Twelve Apostles fromland and sea. Expertonboard naturalists will join you for the Zodiactrip to mainland Australia’s southernmost national park, Wilsons Promontory, and a selection of guidedwalks. You’ll alsostop at Port Fairy where charmingcafes and shops beckon and asmall lighthouse and hidden beaches are waiting to be discovered. Multiple departures are available in December 2022. Pricedfrom$4470pp. aptouring.co.nz

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Main:Enjoya cruisefrom AucklandtoSydneyon Norwegian Spirit; top,Viking Cruises' Komodoand the Australian Coastitinerary visits theWhitsundays, Cairns,and Komodo Island; above, take a10-night adventure cruisethrough Melanesia, including Papua New Guinea, onboard Ponant's Le Soleal. Photos/ Supplied; 123rf;GettyImages Western Australia’s Broome to Wyndham/ Kununurra (or reverse)onthe luxury expedition vessel, True North.Swim in peaceful billabongs, view ancientrock art galleries,marvel at thundering waterfalls and enjoy aheli-picnic at Eagle Falls. Youcan also see The HorizontalFalls two ways:from the sea and from TrueNorth’s helicopter. With multiple departures available in 2023, you’respoiled for choicewhen it comes to choosing asailing that suits your schedule. Pricedfrom $24,500pp. truenorth.com.au Norwegian CruiseLines: AucklandtoSydney Enjoy a12-night New Zealandcruise from Auckland to Sydney on Norwegian Spirit, whichhas recently undergone a$154m renovation. There are multiple departure dates in 2023 for this classic itinerary which takes in the scenicbeauty of Milford Sound and ports such as Dunedin, Akaroa, Picton,Wellington and Tauranga. In Australia, you’ll call at lesser-known destinations such as Burnie in Tasmania, with its Art Deco buildings, thriving foodscene and vibrant artistic community, and Eden in New South Wales. Venturebeyond Eden’s sleepy main streetand you’ll discover beautiful coastal wilderness areas, bush walks in Ben Boyd National Park and rugged surf beaches. Pricedfrom $2680pp. ncl.com

travel Tuesday,September6,2022 | 53 #^T&Csapply WHYTRAVEL WHENYOU CANCRUISE. BOOKWITHA $49DEPOSITPP# FIJIENCOUNTER 8NIGHTS DepartingAuckland HIGHLIGHTS: Suva, Port Denarau,DravuniIsland 2023: 9Jul, 21 Aug,22Sep,16Oct Farespp*from InteriorQuad Interior TwinOceanviewTwin Balcony Twin VALUE $899 $1,199 $1,449 $1,699 VALUEPLUS $1,305 $2,013 $2,262 $2,512 Faresperpersonbasedon bold departuredate. Differentfaresapplytoother departuredateslisted. Farespp*from InteriorQuad Interior TwinOceanviewTwin Balcony Twin VALUE $1,149 $1,399 $1,699 $1,999 VALUEPLUS $1,654 $2,410 $2,710 $3,010 BOUNTYDISCOVERY 10NIGHTS DepartingAuckland HIGHLIGHTS: NorfolkIsland, NewCaledoniaand Vanuatu 2023: 29 Aug,12Sep, 24Oct 2024: 10Sep,1,15Oct Faresperpersonbasedon bold departuredate. Differentfaresapplytoother departuredateslisted. PICTON† 4NIGHTS DepartingAuckland HIGHLIGHTS: ExperiencetheQueen CharlotteSound& Marlboroughwineryregion 2023: 9Oct 2024: 29 Aug Farespp*from InteriorQuadInterior TwinOceanview Twin Balcony Twin VALUE $499 $599 $749 $849 VALUEPLUS $531 $664 $814 $914 Faresperpersonbasedon bold departuredate. Differentfaresapplytoother departuredateslisted. BOOKNOW AT POCRUISES.CO.NZ/WEARETHEDESTINATION|YOURTRAVELAGENT|ORCALL0800780 716 *Fares arecruiseonly, perpersoninNZD in acompletequador twin room based on lead categoriesavailableat publicationdate(6Sep 2022 ), inclusiveofall discounts, chargesand taxes(which aresubjecttochange). Campaign commences24Aug 2022 and ends 18 Oct2022.Advertisedfares areavailable untilallocation is exhausted andmay fluctuate during thecampaign period.Campaign offers only available on P&O’sValue andValuePlusfares typesonly. Validfor newbookingsand notcombinablewith anyother offer. Supplements apply forother room categories.Some oceanviewrooms have obstructedviews.Farebasedonspecifieddeparture dates. Differentfares applytoother dates listed.^Onboard SpendingMoneyisper roominAUD.Amount varies byroom type anditineraryduration as specified, andisappliedtothe first 2guestsonlyinaroom.Australian Explorercruises (28nights+)receiveupto$500 onboardspendingmoney perroom(interior andoceanviewreceive$250 perroom, balcony andabovereceive $500 perroom).Onboard SpendingMoneyexpires at theconclusion of your cruise,isnot transferable, notredeemablefor cash andcannot beused at thecasinoormedical centre.#PayonlyaNZD$49per persondeposit attimeofbooking; finalpayment isthen due75daysbefore departure. Fullpayment isrequired forsailingsbookedwithin 75daysofdeparture.Standard refund andcancellation conditionsapply,see P&O’sBooking andTravelConditionsfor details. Sailings departingonorbefore 30 Nov2022 and bookedprior to 18 October2022 areeligibleforP&O Assurance [http://pocruises.co.nz/assurance]. A1.1%surcharge for Visa andMastercard and a2.75% surchargefor Amex appliestodirectbookingsmadethroughour callcentre andwebsite. Travel agents maychargeadditional fees –check withyour travel agent. †For P&OShortBreaks, ifyour cruise is unable to visitthedestinationonits itinerarybecause of anunforeseencircumstancesuch as weather, civilunrestora mechanical issue,we will endeavourto visit analternativeestinationdeemed safe by theCaptain.Tobereadinconjunction withtheP&O Cruises Australia Bookingand Travel Conditionsavailableathttps://www.pocruises.co.nz/plan/how-to-book/booktravel-conditionswhich passengerswillbe boundby. Vaccination requirementsapply. Government guidelinesmay result in arequirementtoquarantine duringorafter your cruise andmay restrict your abilitytoparticipate in shoretours or disembarkthe ship at portswevisitduringyourcruise. See https://www.pocruises.co.nz/plan/know-before-you-go/healthy-cruising formoreinformation.Guidelinesaresubjecttochangewithoutnotice andassuch,ouractual cruise offeringsmayvary fromthedescriptionsprovidedand images displayed. Cruise itineraries arenot guaranteed.Whilst allinformation iscorrectattimeofpublication, offers aresubjecttochangeorwithdrawal.CarnivalplctradingasP&O CruisesAustralia. ABN23107 998 443. SCANTO BOOK

Cunard:GreatAustralianCulinaryVoyage SomeofAustralia’sleadingfoodexpertsareset tobringthecountry’sdrinkinganddiningculturetolifeonCunard’sinauguralGreatAustralianCulinaryVoyagedepartingSydneyonJanuary28,2023.Highlightsincludecuratedmenus andevents,tailoredshoreexcursionsand insightfultalksbychefssuchasMattMoranand BundjalungManandIndigenouschefMarkOlive,whowillhost anativeAustralianbarbecue ondeck.WineexpertHuonHooke,oneofAustralia’smostrespectedwinecritics,togetherwith esteemedfoodwriterandcriticduoJill Dupleix andTerryDurackwillalsojointhesailingtohost eventsandtalks,andofferupculinarywisdom andinsights. Pricedfrom$1510pp. cunard.com

Enjoyexclusiveonboardbeertastings,visit historicbreweriesandlearnaboutbrewing techniquesasyoutravelthroughSwitzerland, Germany and France, sam plingsuperbregionalbeersalongthe way.Portsonthiseight-night river cruisedepartingNurembergon July21,2023includeBamberg, whereyou’llvisit afamily-run hopgarden,andFrankfurtfor adaytriptoSeligenstadtfor abrewerytourthatventures beyondtraditionalpilsener. With aspecialistbeerguideto hostlectures,beertastings andintroduceyoutofoodand beerpairing,you’llfindplenty ofreasonstoraiseaglassto Europe’sexcellentbeersonthis trip. Pricedfrom$4940pp. avalonwaterways.co.nz

diningoptionsincluding PizzeriadelCapitano,Guy’s BurgerJoint,MasalaTiger andTheCarnivalDeli.The superbchef’stableincludes winematchingandisworth thesplurge,plusitcomes with amagicianwhodropsin toperformtablemagicforthe group.Specialitysteakhouse Fahrenheit555isalsogreatvalue withanextensivemenu,personal serviceandclassysurrounds. Pricedfrom$400pp. carnival.com.au

EMAIL:info@paciﬁctrailways.co.nz WEB:www.paciﬁctrailways.co.nz

ndulgeyourappetiteduringgrandgourmetdinners, meetMichelin-starchefs andattendeventsincludingchefdemonstrations,vintnerlectures,intimate tastingsandfoodandbeerpairingson theseculinary-focusedadventures aroundtheworldandclosertohome.

FREEPHONE:0800868766

Fullyhosted,all-inclusivetours. Cruising: Foodanddrink TianaTempleman findsfabulousfoodie cruisesforeverytasteandbudget Dine discover and Main:Joinfellowfoodies on aP&OPacificAdventure; above, Australia'sdrinking anddiningculturewill come tolifeonCunard'sinaugural GreatAustralianCulinary Voyage.

fullyselectedlocalvintagesandguidedtoursthat revealthecountry’sculinarytraditionsasthe bargesailsthrough alandscapefilledwithelegantchateauxandpicturesquevillages. Pricedfrom$6240pp. europeanwaterways.com OceaniaCruises:FranceorItalyCruise OceaniaCruises haslongbeenfamousforits onboardcuisinebutfoodiescanstepitup anotch —andloosentheirbelt anotch —onItalyand Francecruiseswhichfeatureloadsoftheline’s legendaryCulinaryDiscoveryTours.These foodie-focusedadventurescombineallthekey ingredientsfor aperfectculinaryexcursion: traditionalcuisine,hands-onlearning,local markets,passionateguidesandplentyofeating anddrinking.Choosefromoptionssuchasa VenetianMasterCookingClass &MarketTour, 54 | Tuesday,September6,2022 travel

Carnival Cruises:CruisetoNowhere Foodiesseeking atasteofthechampagnelifeon abeerbudgetshouldlooknofurtherthanCarnivalCruises, awell-pricedlinethatexcelsat deliveringdeliciousdiningat amodestprice.On aCruisetoNowherefromSydneyorBrisbane, therearenoportstodistractyoufromthetasty delightsonboard.Bookinto aspecialtyrestaurantorstickwiththemanycomplimentary

Commencingon aSunday, MondayorTuesday exclusiveofstatutory&schoolholidays Includesall Accommodation typesandsites Conditionsapply &subjecttoavailability FreePhone0800422674 •Telephone+64 73456240 [email protected] www.allseasonsrotorua.co.nz 50-58LeesRoadHannahsBay, Rotorua ALL SEASONS HOLIDAY PARK -ROTORUA Payfor 2nights &stayfor3 Heated Pool &Spa Appliesfrom25/4/20 to 26/11/20 Appliesfrom31/1/21to21/12/21 Payfor 2nights &stayfor3 Commencingon aSunday, MondayorTuesday exclusiveofstatutory&schoolholidays Includesall Accommodation typesandsites Conditionsapply &subjecttoavailability TasmanianTempter 13days$7799perpersonsharetwinfromAuckland $7899from Wellington or Christchurch –Depart:27thOctober2022 FlydirectfromAucklandtoHobart(3nights).Enjoy sights: Tasman Bridge,BateryPoint, Salamanca Place,PortArthurConvictSettlement. Travelthrough Derwent Valley,RussellFalls, TarraleahGorgeto Queenstown(2nights).CruiseGordonRiverintothe heartof Tasmania’s wilderness,Hells Gate,Strahan. VisitCradleMountainNationalParktwonightsat Smithton. Visitto WoolnorthFarmonthefarNorth Westtipof TasmaniaandStanley.LunchHellyerRoad WhiskeyDistillery.StayLaunceston(2nights).Cruise magniﬁcent CataractGorgeandcheckouttheSwiss styleGrindlewald Village. We visitLegerwoodtoview the WarMemorial Treecarvings,meet aTasmanian DevilattheEastCoastNatureworldandvisitBicheno and FreycinetNational Parkwithitsjaggedpinkgranite peaksandcrystalclearwaters. We include return airfaresfromAuckland, WellingtonorChristchurch, qualityaccommodation,allbreakfastsanddinnersand severallunches,allentrancesandsightsasmentioned, 5starluxurytouringcoachalongwith aprofessional tourdriver,experiencedtourdirectorfromNew Zealand,FREEhomepickupand returninthegreater Auckland, WellingtonorChristchurcharea.Coming fromothercentresinNewZealand?Justcallourofﬁce andwecanassistwiththebestway to joinus. FREEPHONE 0800809300 54 WellesleySt WestAucklandCity TAANZbondedforyourprotectionandmemberofIata EMAIL:[email protected] ESCORTEDTOURS Proudly NewZealandownedandOperatedDC-3 EASTCOAST AIRTOUR in-ﬂightcockpitvisitsand grassrunwaylandings.Seethe BOP,Rotorua,WhakaariWhiteIsland,EastCape,Hawkes Bayand Taupo –from above!PlusHobbiton,Redwood treewalk,iconicGisborne stingrays,Eastwoodhill,Cape Kidnappersgannets,Hukajetboatandmore. $5,685p/psharetwin (singleroom;$6,175)

AvalonWaterways:GermanGrandeurBeer TastingCruise

EuropeanWaterways:FrenchCulinary Cruise FewcountriescancompeteinqualityandpopularitywithFrancewhenitcomestofoodandwine andEuropeanWaterways’ luxuryhotelbarges makethemostofeverydeliciousmouthful. CulinarycruisesareavailableinBurgundyor alongtheCanalduMidiorCanaldeBriare, France’s oldestcanal,whichconnectswiththe SeineandLoireRivers.Thereareplentyof opportunitiestosampleFrance’sfamousfood andwine,withexcursionstoprestigious vineyards,gastronomicmealspairedwithcare-

KIMBERLEY UNREALUNSPOILTUNBELIEVABLE Discoverone of theworld's greatwilderness regions–right hereatour frontdoor! Afascinating luxury expeditionacross Australia’s north-west frontier exploring thespectacularlandscapes, and theﬂoraandfaunaofthe remote Kimberley. Highlightswill includeWyndham,Montgomery Reef,KingGeorgeRiver,MitchellFalls and Lacepede Islands. Inclusions:10night luxury Ponantcruise with allmeals, beveragesand shoreexcursionsescorted by experienced naturalistguides. VoyagesdepartDarwin: 24 May, 13 June,23July, 12 August2023 From $16,170pptwinshare forBalcony Stateroom ex AKL/WLG/CHC Bonus:IncludesAirfares* Plus: 1Night Darwin Hotel* Plus: 1night Broome Hotel* Plus: Luxury limo transfersto/fromAKL/WLG/CHC airports* Plus: $400ppFIRST TIME DISCOUNT* Search ourwebsitefor Package#308 faceinstagram.com/ultimatecruising book.com/ultimatecruisingaus ULTIMATECRUISING.CO.NZ ORCALL US ON 0800485 846 *Conditions apply. Subjecttoavailabilityofservicesattimeofbooking.New bookingsonly. Notcombinable withother PonantorUltimateoffers. Pricequotedbased on Deluxe Stateroom.Airfaretomax value $1500pp. Luxury carairport transfersvalid up to 35kms from relevant airport. NZOffice hoursMon toFri1oamto4pm BOOKNOW SAVE$6000 PERCABIN.

Belowleft:European Waterways’luxuryhotelbarges offerculinarycruises;below right,TasmanianExpedition Cruises’newhigh-endluxury vesseltakesguestsonafour-or six-nightcruisetoPortDavey. Photos/ Supplied;MarkDaffey whichincludesacookingdemonstrationat aVenetianmasterchef’sprivatevillaand lunchat alocalhomeoranAixMarket Tour &ProvencalLunchwitha gluten-freecookingdemonstrationconductedby afamous Michelin-starchef. Cruisepricesvarydepending ontheitinerary. oceaniacruises.com ScenicLuxuryCruisesand Tours:TastesofSouthern FrancewithGabrielGate DepartingLyononJune14 2023,this10-nightround-trip cruisetravelsthroughthesouth ofFranceandisledbyGabriel Gate,oneoftheregion’smostfamousFrenchculinaryexperts.Along withexclusiveactivitieshostedbyGate, suchasonboardcookingdemonstrations andguidedtours,youcanmeet atrufflefarmer andtheirspeciallytraineddog,tastewines with alocalvintnerinBeaujolaisor participateinaninteractiveworkshop attheValrhonaCiteduChocolate Museum.Yourfamousguideand celebritycheflovesnothingmore thanwanderingoffthetypical touristtrailtouncoverlesserknownfoodmarkets and culinarycuriosities. Pricedfrom$8740pp. scenicnz.com TasmanianExpedition Cruises:PortDaveyEscape Getreadyforadventureand someofAustralia’sbestfoodand winewhenyouboardTasmanian ExpeditionCruises’newhigh-end luxuryvesselfor afour-orsix-night cruisetoPortDavey.OdalisqueIIItakes amaximumof12guestsonfoodandwinefocusedadventuresthroughTasmania’smost pristinewildernessareas,includingSouthwest NationalPark,whichisoneofthemostremote andmost renownedTasmaniaWilderness WorldHeritageAreas.Onboardtheship, specialistchefssecondedfrom some ofHobart’s toprestaurantsdishupsuperbmealsstarring Tasmania’sfamousproduceaccompaniedby theregion’scool-climatewines,crispcraft beersandaward-winningspirits. Pricedfrom$12,345pp. onboardexpeditions.com.au

P&OCruisesAustralia: SapphireCoastFood Festival Joinfellowfoodieson PacificAdventurefor plentyofeating, drinkingandmakingmerryon afood focusedthreenightround-trip cruisefromSydneytothetownof Eden, whichispart ofthescenicSapphireCoastandrenownedforitssuperb localproduce.Signup for ashoreexcursion thatvisitsKamerukaEstate, aworkingsheepand cattlestationwhereyoucanlearn aboutlifeontheland.Oryoucould joinlocaloysterfarmerBrettWeingarth,aka “CaptainSponge”,tolearnaboutoystersand oysterfarmingandsample aPambulaLake SydneyRockoysterstraightfromthelake’s pristinewaters.Severaldepartures are availableforthisitineraryin2022and2023. Pricedfrom$500pp. pocruises.co.nz Azamara:Wine &CultureVoyage DiscovertheculinarycultureofSpain,Portugal andFranceon a14-nightWine& Culture VoyagefromBarcelonatoDublinonboard AzamaraPursuit,departingonMay30,2023. Breatheinthefreshseaairat aWhiteNight barbecuepartyonthetopdeck,dropinto traditionalEnglishpubsinGibraltar,sample authenticportinthetown ofPortoinPortugal ordineatfamily-runpintxobarsandMichelinstarredrestaurantsinBilbao,whichproduces someofSpain’sbestRioja wines.Thecruise alsoincludesthreedaysinBordeauxwhere you’llhaveplentyoftimetotourlocalvineyards andsampleoutstandinglocaldrops.Ifyou prefermorespiritedentertainment,visit ChateauRoyaldeCognacandMaison Hennessy,twooftheworld’smostfamous cognacproducers.Forthose wholovefood, wineandgolfinequalmeasure,there’salsothe optiontopurchase aGolfPackageandplaya roundatsomeoftheworld’sbestcourses,with everythingtakencareof,fromgreenfeesand caddiestoanopenbarateachgolf course. Pricedfrom$6445pp. azamara.com

travel Tuesday,September6,2022 | 55

ourishing the four main pillars of health andwellness(movement, sleep, relaxation and nutrition) has become apriority for people in the wakeofthe pandemic both at homeand on holiday. Not to be left behind,the cruise industryis increasingly mirroringthis trend in thegrowth of wellness tourism —defined by the Global Wellness Institute as “travel associated with the pursuit of maintaining or enhancing one’s personal wellbeing”. Althoughswimming pools andgyms on ships may be nothing new, the diversityonoffer is growing exponentially.Not only will you find more activity managers andpersonal trainers on board, but plenty of thought has also been put into the facilities —the number of different pools (plunge, whirl,infinity, thermal), the quality of the gyms, and the calibre of the equipment. The sheer range of fitness classes at sea —from F45 to bungee, barre and Ryde —could easily rival ahigh-end healthclub on land. Except these come with an oceanview. Leadingthe chargeinwellness are anumber of excitingship launchesfor 2022. Operators with big wellness ambitions this year include CelebrityCruises’ ship Beyond (following Edge and Apex), and Silversea’s Silver Dawn, whichintroduces Otium, a new lavish Roman-inspired spa con cept on the 10th member of its fleet. If you’re keen on wellness,there’s neverbeen abetter timetobook acruise. Here are nine suggestionsfor the bestriver and ocean cruises around the world.

What if your idea of wellness is more actionfocused? On Avalon’s “active” river cruisesthere are “adventure hosts”who will help to fix your fitness goals. Biking, yoga, stretching, canoeing, running and hiking excursions are offered, and accessories such as Fitbitsand yoga mats are always to hand. On this itinerary, active options include hiking up to the majestic castle in Bernkastel —the pay-off is breathtaking views over the Moselle Valley— exploring the old Roman military post of Koblenzonfoot, and taking abike tour of the colourfulfairytaletown of Cochem.You’ll sail on Avalon Imagery II, whichhas afitnesscentre on boardand an outdoor whirlpool.

56 | Tuesday, September 6, 2022

noodle dishes andalmond-flour pancakes.

StopsincludeAgra, Jaipur, Calcutta, Kalna and Matiari. uniworld.com

Cruising: Wellbeing »

Worldsof wellness

EMBRACE YOUR ACTIVE SIDE

UNWIND WITH AYOGI India Balance your doshas with Ayurveda yoga, try TRX suspension training, swim in the resistance pool, or centreyourself with sunrise yoga. Keepingfit is easy on boardaUniworld boat, especially with wellness instructors on standby. If you preferquieter activities, take apainting class, have fun camping under thestars on the top deck,orbliss out with aback massage. Watch out for the “Let’s Go” excursions, whichinclude cycling, kayaking,golfing and Nordic walking (great for toningmuscles and boosting circu lation).With an on-board yogi, wellness is celebrated on Uniworld’s India cruisealong the sacred River Ganges. Nutrition scores high on the wellness menu, which includescourgetti

How to do it: The 12-nightIndia’s Golden Triangle &the Sacred Ganges cruise, fromDelhi to Calcutta, with Uniworld costs from$10,350pp for select departures in January-March and September 2023 (down from $11,499pp, if booked by September 30 and paid in full within three days).

PARADISE FOR WATERBABIES

Bungee, hammams,dryflotation, resistance swimming theyare partof agrowingswing towards health afloat, writes Frances Marcellin

Above: Cochem,Germany; below, Ponant's luxury cruiseship Le Bougainville.

How to do it: The seven-night Active& Discoverycruise on the Moselle,from Remich to Frankfurt, with Avalon Waterways costs from$3736pp (bookbySeptember30, 2022; full price $5636pp); departs May-September. Stops include Bernkastel, Cochem, Koblenz and Frankfurt. avalonwaterways.co.nz

France When the hydraulicplatformislowered at the stern on Ponant’s luxury Explorer ships, you can hop on an inflatable Zodiacboat,and swim, kayak and paddleboard in thecrystal-clear watersofthe Mediterranean. As you sail around the beautifulislandofCorsica,make the most of the pool, which offers panoramic views— there’s also acounter-currentsystem for swim ming.Unwind with aJapanesebody treatment or adeep comfort sports massage; heal with balneotherapy (bathing in thermalmineral waters); find your runner’s high at thegym; and detox and unwindinthe hammam.Unique to these private yacht-likeships is Blue Eye,a multisensory underwater lounge designed by the renowned oceanographer and architect Jacques Rougerie, whereyou canfeel ocean rhythms and sounds throughout your body.Watery excursions also include open-water divingand shore visitsinZodiac boats How to do it: The seven-night Corsica and IberianShores on Ponant’s Le Bougainville costs from AU$5110pp (NZ$5706); departs August 21 2023 (Nice to Barcelona)and August 28 (Barcelona to Nice). Stops include St Florent, Bonifacio, and Calvi en.ponant.com

LET’S GET PHYSICAL Spain Health, fitness and fun are at the heartofa Virgin

Agroup yogaclass onboard ScarletLady; below,Wellnessisa focus on MSCCruises' newship Seashore; The Best of Scandinavia Amsterdam sailingwith CelebrityCruises Photos/ Supplied; 123rf

FINDINNER PEACE ANDOUTER PACE

Scandinavia Just likeits new sister ship, Beyond,Celebrity Apex hasbeen designed with wellness in mind.Inthe Northern Hemisphere summer, the ship will sail from Amsterdam to ports includingHelsinki, where you can sip acocktail at abar made entirely of ice; the medievalOld Town of Tallinn; and Sweden’s capital, Stockholm.Fitness classes include F45, Ryde,barre andPeloton, and gym bunnies will delight in Technogym’s weight machines and cardio equipment. There’s also an undulating running track outondeck.Inner peace isjust as important as outdoor pace, so find yourZen with yoga, breathing and meditation classes. Acustomised nutrition plan and personaltrainers are also available. Relax with amineral-charged seaweed massageatthe spa, boost heart healthwith aswim, and set up agoodnight’s sleep with time in the hot tub. How to do it: The 12-night Best of Scandinavia Amsterdam return sailing withCelebrity Cruises costs from $3895pp; departing May to August. Stops include Berlin, Helsinki, Visby, Tallinn,Stockholm and Copenhagen. celebritycruises.com

Caribbean Join aCaribbean sailing with awellness focus aboard MSC Cruises’new ship Seashore.Zap anxiety and magicaway muscle pain with adry flotation zero-gravity experience. There are seemingly infinite waystorejuvenate on board, with salt, snow,scruband steam rooms, as well as six pools. You can also meetyour cardioand strength-training targets with the vast Technogym. From Miami, you cruise into the Unesco World HeritageSite of San Juan, in Puerto Rico, and alightfor bioluminescent kayaking. In Puerto Plata, you can snorkel, or take ahike inland to discover the natural lime stone waterslides of the Damajagua Waterfalls. On arrival at the mar ine reserve of OceanCay, test your fitness with paddleboarding (a glow-in-the-dark version is offeredatnight), line dancing and beach volleyball.

Voyagescruise on Scarlet Lady and Valiant Lady. Playful leisure equipment —includinga boxing ring— spills outontothe decks for freshair workoutswith aview of the Mediterranean Get jiggy with some jumpshots on the basketball court, work those quadsonthe seesaw, dip into the hot tub, race around the red running track or work up asweat with spin or HIIT. To improve your mobility, try outthe bungee class. The gym is also stockedwith abundanttreadmills,cardio equipmentand weights. Shake it all off and unwind withyoga and meditation,chill outby the pool or detox in the mud room.A “plantforward” restaurant serves vegan and veggie delights, andexcursions include trekking, kayaking, hiking and paddleboarding.Plus, no kids are allowed.

RESTAND REJUVENATE

LIVELIKE AVIKING

How to do it: The seven-night Spanish Obsession Barcelona returncruise,with Virgin Voyages costs from$2351pp; departs June-September. Stops include Palma(Mallorca), Gibraltar, Malaga and Ibiza. virginvoyages.com

How to do it: The seven-night Caribbean &AntillesMiamireturnsailing, withMSC Cruises costs from $1699pp; departs JuneJuly. Stops include Charlotte Amalie (St Thomas,USVirgin Islands), San Juan (Puerto Rico), Puerto Plata (Dominican Republic) and OceanCay (Bahamas). msccruises.co.nz

Continued on p58

Iceland Circumnavigate Icelandasyou combineactionpackedadventure with wellness. Taking in the country’snaturalbeauty, this cruise includes riding horses through volcaniclandscapes, relaxing in Reykjavik’s geothermal lagoon and hiking in ice caves and lava tunnels —and that’s just on day one. As you cruise alongthe coast,you can em braceyour inner Viking as you sizzle and sweat in asteam sauna beforecoolingdown quickly in a sub-zerosnowgrotto,rubbingice on your joints to reduce inflam mation. If you can face it, be sure to repeat thisprocess three times in order to improve yourimmune system,trigger endorphins and stimulate bloodcirculation.You can find these spa facilities on everyocean ship in Viking’s fleet, along with amineral-rich thermal pool, asea-viewfitnessroom and amain

$4990* Faresstarting

58 | Tuesday, September 6, 2022 travel

Continued from p57 Main: Circumnavigate Icelandasyou combine action-packed adventure withwellnessonanocean cruise withViking;inset, Otium spaonboard Silversea’s newship Silver Dawn. Photos/Supplied pool for some serious swimming. How to do it: The eight-dayIceland’s Natural Beauty Reykjavikreturn sailing, with Viking Cruises costs from $5600pp; departs June August. Stops include Isafjordur, Akureyri, Seydisfjordur, Djupivogur and Heimaey vikingcruises.com.au DO AS THEROMANSDO Mediterranean

Formoreinfoortobook: www.gvr.org.nz |Email: [email protected] |Ph020 GVR BOOK (020 487 2665)

Anyone can catchanelectric train in Auckland -but can you sayyou have caughtasteam train around Auckland??? Well, nowisyourchance. Join us on this very rare and unique occasion whereyou can choose to travel on anyof our trains "around the block" on Saturday15October Boarding: -The Strand Station -Otahuhu 4return trips 3return trips Sunday 16th October

The pursuit of leisure or “otium” was a lifestyle choice for the Romans. In their honour,Silver Dawn (Silversea’s newest ultra-luxury ship) features the lavish, Roman-inspired Otium spa Customised wellness is key at Otium andyou will be offeredanindulgent treatment menu, including the Divine Experience, whichfeatures mood balancingaromatics anda decadent head, shoulder and hand massage. Fitness fans will enjoy the Technogym equipment, free weights and classes, with personaltrainers on hand to give individual sessions. Active excursions range from easy to strenuous. In Portofino, on the Italian Riviera, youcan take atoughyet scenic climbuptostunningSan Fruttuoso.In Palamos, Spain, amore sedate option includes an e-bike ridealong the Ruta del Tren Petit once anarrow-gaugerailway line —tothe medieval village of Pals. How to do it: The seven-nightCivitavecchia (Rome) to Barcelona cruise, with Silversea costs from $10,320pp, includingflights; departs MayOctober. Stops include Portofino, Monte Carlo, Marseilleand Palamos. silversea.com STRIKE THE RIGHTBALANCE Europe Meander along trails around the immaculate vineyards at Rudesheim on the Rhine, explore the scenic Danube by bike,and walk to the Hungarian kings’ stronghold at the summit of BudaHill, in Budapest, where you canstay after sunset. Emerald Cruises’activity managers are trained to help you strike the rightbalance between fitness and fun, and on all of Emerald’s “star-ships” you’llfind apool (with aretractable roof), agym andspa. How to do it: The 14-night SplendoursofEurope sailing fromAmsterdam to Budapest, with Em erald Cruises costs from$4990pp; departs AprilOctober. Stopsinclude Cologne, Rudesheim, Nuremberg, Vienna and Bratislava emeraldcruises.co.uk

An epic adventurewith more steam hauled rail days than any other multi-day rail tour on the market within NZ! With plenty of options to suit, this rail adventure is sure to appease all types of travelling rail enthusiasts. from per person twin share

DepartsWellington 16thOctober |DepartsAuckland 19th October

Join us on this one-oﬀ trip from Auckland City to Waiuku behind Ja1271 and join with the GVRincelebrating the 100th Year Anniversary of the Waiuku Branch Line -1922 to 2022. At Waiuku youcan join the festivities or explorethe town before your return journeyback in to Auckland City Boarding: -The Strand Station -Panmure -Otahuhu -Papatoetoe -Papakura Formoreinfo, for other trips or to book: www.gvr.org.nz |Ph020 GVR BOOK (020 487 2665)

Saturday15th October

Join us on thisexclusive multi-daytour departing from Wellington and Auckland Tourincludes steam-hauledrail days,premiumaccommodation andoptionalactivities.

travel Tuesday,September6,2022 | 59 MSCOrchestra HighlightsofAfrica& DurbantoGenoa Cruise Embracethrillinggamesafaris,VictoriaFalls explorationsand aDurbanstayinsouthern Africa,paired with an epic MSCOrchestra cruise to Genoa, stopping in theIndianOcean, Middle East &Mediterranean. The MSCOrchestra Experience Combiningspacious,elegantinteriors withthebrilliantvarietyforwhichthe MSC ﬂeet’sMusicaClassisrenownedandwith everyelementcombinedtoperfection, thestunningMSCOrchestrapromisesyou adreamcruise.Lifeonboardindulges youwitheverythingyouwouldwishforon acruiseholiday. Discover PilanesbergNational Park You’ll transferfromJohannesburg for asecludedlodgestaynestled withinthePilanesbergNational Park, aplaceof breath-taking beautyandserenityandhome toabundantwildlifeandbird species.Duringyourstay,you’ll joindailybushwalksandgame drivesinPilanesbergNational Park, athrillingwaytoexperience theincredibleAfricanwilderness andgame.Here,you’lltrackdown Africa’s‘BigFive’–theelephant, lion,leopard,Capebuﬀaloand rhino –andmayevenspotthem roamingnearyourlodgeroom! Explore the Seychelles Anarchipelagoofmorethan ahundredislandsscattered acrosstheIndianOcean,theSeychellespresenta true tropicalparadise.It’salso ahavenfor auniquearrayof ﬂoraandfauna,whilealmosthalfofitslandmassisset aside forprotectednationalparksandreserves. IN CL UD ES SA FA RI &F UL LY ES CO RTED TOU ROF VI CT OR IA FA LLS BOOKNOW FOR APRIL 2023 34 Nights |Departing 11 April2023 ALLFLIGHTS,TAXES &TRANSFERSINCLUDED Tobookcall (09)9412586 OpeningHours:MontoFri:10am -8pm |Sat &Sun:11am -7pm imagineholidays.co.nz TermsandConditionsapply,forfulldetailspleasevisitimagineholidays.co.nz.AllpricesshowninNZDollars.Pricesareperpersonbasedon 2adultssharing acruisecabinandincludeﬂights fromAuckland(regionalﬂightsavailableat asupplement).*Pricesshownincludediscountandsavingsarebasedontwoadultssharing aBalcony.Creditcardschargedat1.5%,ifpayingby AMEX achargeof2.5%willbeadded.ABNnumber48614987718.Pricesarecorrectatthetimeofprintandaresubjecttochange.Mainimageisintendedforillustrativepurposesonly. Bookwith Conﬁdence Fullyprotected|Exceptionalservice&expertise |Amazingvalue Great Cruise 25 night full-board cruiseonboard the unforgettableMSCOrchestra HotelStays 1night ﬁve-starstayinJohannesburg at the PeermontD’OrealeGrande Hotelwith breakfast 3night four-starhotelstayinPilanesberg National Park at theKwa Maritane Bush Lodge with breakfast, lunch anddinner 3night four-starhotel stayinLivingstone at The DavidLivingstone Safari Lodgewithbreakfast 2night four-starstayinDurbanatthe Southern SunElangeni &Maharaniwithbreakfast FullyEscortedTours Walking tourof Victoria Falls Safari tourof PilanesbergNational Park ZambeziRiver tour on board theLady Livingstone River Safari Ride throughthe ZambeziRiver Valley on board theRoyal Livingstone Express 34NIGHTS FROMONLY $10,499PP INCFLIGHTS BALCONY fr $13,499PP INTERIOR fr $10,499PP $11,499PP OCEANVIEW fr 34 NightItinerary: Johannesburg,PilanesbergNationalPark, Livingstone,Durban, RéunionIsland,Mauritius, Seychelles,Aqaba,SuezCanal(sceniccruising), Heraklion, Naples,Civitavecchia(Rome),Genoa Startyourincredible34-nightadventurewitha one-nighthotelstayinSouth Africa’svibrantJohannesburg,thensavourthreenightsat alodgewithin breathtakingPilanesbergNationalParkanddailygamedrivestotrackdown Africa’s‘BigFive’intheincredibleAfricanwilderness. Then ﬂytoLivingstone,Zambia,foranothermemorablethree-nightstay,enjoying aguidedwalkaroundthespectacularVictoriaFalls –oneoftheworld’sgreatest naturalwonders –asunsetcruise alongtheZambezi Riverandelegant ﬁne-dining onboard a1930srestoredlocomotive. Followinga ﬂightbacktoSouthAfricaandexcitingtwo-nightstayinvibrant Durban,embarktheMSCOrchestraforanincredible25-nightcruise.Leaving SouthAfricabehind,you’llsailboundfortheIndianOceanandtropicalparadise islandsofRéunion,MauritiusandSeychelles,whosestunningbeautywillastound you. Thenget atasteoftheevocativeMiddleEastwith avisittoexoticAqaba, Jordanand acruisethroughEgypt’shistoricSuezCanal,beforereachingsundrenchedSouthernEurope.Relishfurtherstopsintheancientportcitiesof HeraklionontheGreekislandofCreteandinItaly,Naples,thenCivitavecchia, for ‘EternalCity’Romeand ﬁnallyGenoa,whereyou’lldisembarktheMSCOrchestra andconcludeyourepicholiday. SA VE UP TO $4 ,0 00 PE RC AB IN*

60 | Tuesday,September6,2022 travel SPECIALINTERESTTOURS Visitourwebsitetoseethefulltouringprogrammeor contactusfor acopy of ourtravelbrochure JOINANADVENTURETOREMEMBERANDMEETLIKE-MINDED TRAVELLERSONONEOFTHESEVERYSPECIALEXPERIENCES MarlboroughGardenSpectacular 3-7Nov2022, 5daysfrom$2,975pp Discover atreasuretroveofbeautifulgardens atRapauraSpringsGardenMarlborough,New Zealand’spremiergardenevent,createdby gardenersforgardeners. MolesworthHighCountryStation 16-20Nov2022, 5daysfrom$3,675pp ImmerseyourselfintheHighCountrywithour tourtoMolesworthandRainbowStation,anarea richinhistory, outstandingnatureanddramatic landscapes. Artof theNorth 1-4Dec2022, 4daysfrom$1,735pp Visitincredibleartandsculpturecollections inAuckland,MatakanaandWhangareiincludingtherecentlyopenedHundertwasser ArtCentre. CanterburyHighCountryStations 2-7Dec2022, 6daysfrom$3,380pp Joinuson atourexploringremoteHigh CountryStations;includesvisitstoMount Torlesse,RubiconStation,ErewhonStationand GlenfallochStation. Heritage TourofOtago 8-13Feb2023, 6daysfrom$4,580pp ExploretherichlyhistoricandscenicOtago;from alpinemountains,gorgesandabandonedgoldminingtownstowildcoasts,historichotels,and cityarchitecture. ArtDecoFestival Weekend 17-20Feb2023, 4daysfrom$1,570pp ComealongwithusasweattendtheannualArt DecoFestivalinNapier.Theuniqueeventfeatures manyvintagethemedeventsandactivitiesdressingupisoptional! Wingsover Wairarapa 24-27Feb2023, 4daysfrom$1,190pp We travelthroughstunningcountrysideto Mastertonforthisbiennialaviationshowcase fullofthrills,excitementand aspectacular ﬂyingprogramme. Hawke’sBayHistoricHomes 1-5Nov2022, 5daysfrom$2,075pp VisitsomeoftheHawke’sBay’sbeautifulhomes, manystillownedbytheiroriginalfamilies. We alsoenjoyanArtDecotour,anddinnerat MissionEstate Winery. SouthIslandNatureEncounters 18-26Nov2022, 9daysfrom$5,725pp Afantasticopportunitynottobemissed!Get upclosetothewiderangeofnatureandwildlife tobefoundbetweenChristchurchand StewartIsland.

Thanksfor readingthis week’sbumperissueof Herald Travel.Wehope you’ve foundatleastonecruiseholidaytopique yourinterest. But we knowthere’salot to getthrough,sohere’salittle reminder to someofthe stories youmighthave missed, courtesy ofsomeofthetravelwriters featuredinthisissue. FromourtravelwritersBONVOYAGE EWANMCDONALD tracksdownthe world’sbest rivercruise routes,fromAsia to theAmericas » p34-p35 TIANATEMPLEMAN st tineraries GRANTBRADLEY helps pop superstarKatyPerry launch the world’snewest cruiseship inIceland » p20-p22 NEILPORTEN findsif you can’tbeatthem youshould definitelyjointhemonboard thenewValiantLady,a Virg Voyagesship » p24-p25 KENDALLHILL explores theremoteislands andnational parksoffar-eastern Indonesia ondecadenteight-berthlive-aboardKudanil Explorer » p28-p29 SARAHPOLLOK hasenough once-in-alifetime experiences to fillseverallifetimes inthe Galapagos Islands » p32-p33 JOANNABOOTH shares her shipwith mice,dogs,ducksand somesuperheroes » p46-p47 SARAH DANIELL discoverswherethe “bad girls”go in Ketchikan,Alaska » p42-p43 recommendsthe bestoff-ship excursionson theRhone»p37 tracksdown the best ships and itineraries forfoodies » p54-p55 ou ld ard rgin travel Tuesday,September6,2022 | 61

LISTENON97.4FMOR THEHITS TERMS &CONDITIONSAPPLY.SEETHEHITS.CO.NZFORMOREDETAILS LISTEN TO WIN YOURTICKET TO PARADISE ON AN 11 NIGHT QUEENSLAND CRUISE FOR 4 62 | Tuesday,September6,2022 travel

The CelebrityTreasure Island contestantand star reveals her most memorable holidays

travel Tuesday,September6,2022 | 63

backseatandout somehowmanaged and we got aw Whatdestinationdid borderswerec Ithink Idreamtmor allofthe countrie weren’tgettingsobadlya by thepandemic probablyJapan,but Japanisn’tfullyopen yet, soI’lljusth keepondreaming. What’s your approachto packing fora bigtrip? A. Trytoget someoneelse to doit forme.B. Leave ittillthe lastm Hope be Whatisthe destinationthat mostsurprised —g So beautiful manyd societalproblemsthatmean lifeisincrediblydi unfair forsom ewas yourmost memorablesunrise/sunset? South Africawinsagain! ThesunriseatKruger National Parkthat we sawaftergoingleopard spottingbeforedawnwas unforgettable. ’s the firstthing youdo yougethomefroma longtrip? oidunpacking. umissmostabout youtravel? heonedestination youmustsee London. Ineed to watch est matchthereoneday. uritethingabouttravel? versepeopleand rldview.

www.rakotest2fly.com |0800122 355 Holidaywithout Covid-19 Test2Flyforassurance Non-invasivePCR salivatest 99%ac(noswabs) curate Detectsearly infection TravellingwithCovid-19 canbe costlyanddisruptive. RapidAntigen Tests(RAT)missmanycaseswhen peoplearen’t yetsymptomatic.Thiscan causebig headachesifyoustarttoshowsymptomsand need to isolate.RakoScience’s gold standardPCR salivatests are99% accurateand detect earlyinfection,soyoucan adjustplans,andstopthespread. We specialiseingroupbookings, resultingin aconvenient andstress-freeexperience.Calluson 0800122355 to seeifgroupdiscountsapply. Celebrity TreasureIsland screensMondaysto Wednesdaysat7.30pm on TVNZ2

Karen O’Leary ALIFEINTRAVEL

Whatareyourstrongestmemoriesfromthe first overseastrip youevertook? My firstoverseastrip wasto Sydneyin2000 forthe GayGames.Despitebeingan avidcricketer,I went to playsoftball.The strongest memorywasbeing attheopening ceremonyandthinking Iwasatthe actualOlympics. What wasa standardfamilyholidaylikewhen growingup? Mum, Dadand my twosistersgoing camping somewhererandomwith my uncleandaunty and cousins.Weoncecampedon topofsome undergroundbees, gotannihilated by storms, Dad andUncle’s beer floated away down ariver…Wehad terrible campingluck,butan awfullotoffun. Whohasmostinspired yourtravels? WhoeverI’m going to visit,orwhoeveristravelling withme. Whatisthegreatesttrip you’ve everbeenon? They’re allgreat fordifferent reasons.I recently went to theStates forthe firsttime to visit my partnerwhois studying overthere. We went to BigBearmountainandthat was pretty magical. Andthe worst? Gettingshotatandalmost killed in South Africa. Iwastherefor my bigsister’swedding.When wewere leaving tocomehome,the carIwas drivinggot stopped by amakeshift roadblockandthenas Iwasabout to reverseoutofthere,therewas amassive bangandsomeone standingbehindthe carshot anelephantriflethroughtheboot,middleofthe

Oneof KarenO’Leary’smost memorablesunsetswas onholiday uth Africa. Photos /Supplied

64 | Tuesday,September6,2022 travel

Covid 19 coronavirus: Moscow mayor invites residents to trial vaccine

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The mayor of Moscow has invited residents to join trials of a coronavirus vaccine which Russia approved for use earlier this month.

Officials described the move as a breakthrough on par with the Soviet Union's launch of the world's first satellite, Sputnik, in 1957.

The world's first vaccine against the coronavirus to receive a government go-ahead has caused unease among international medical experts, who called Russia's fast-tracked approval and failure to share any data supporting claims of the vaccine's efficacy a major breach of scientific protocol.

Scientists around the world say any widely-used vaccine should first be tested in advanced trials involving tens of thousands of people to prove it is safe and effective before being licensed.

Russia is became the first country to approve a coronavirus vaccine for use in tens of thousands of its citizens despite international skepticism. AP Photo / Alexander Zemlianichenko Jr

In his invitation to the Russian capital's residents, Moscow Mayor Sergei Sobyanin appeared to announce those kind of broad studies would be launched soon. He said the "post-registration research" will last six months and involve 40,000 people.

Sobyanin encouraged Moscow residents to sign up, arguing that the vaccine was based on longtime previous research and proven to be safe.

"We all were eager to see the creation of a vaccine, and now we have it," Sobyanin said. "Now, Moscow residents have a unique chance to become the main participants in clinical research that will help defeat the coronavirus."

The Russian Direct Investment Fund that bankrolled the vaccine said it will facilitate similar trials in five other countries, which it didn't name.

"The post-registration clinical trial will allow for a permanent registration certificate and expansion of the circle of possible vaccine recipients, including the 60+ age group," the fund said in a statement.

Scientists at the World Health Organisation said last week that although they had begun discussions with Russia about its vaccine, they had not yet received any detailed data about it.

In announcing the vaccine's approval on August 11, Russian President Vladimir Putin said one of his two adult daughters already had been inoculated with it. He said the vaccine underwent the necessary tests and was shown to provide lasting immunity to the coronavirus, although Russian authorities have offered no proof to back up claims of safety or effectiveness.

An employee works with a coronavirus vaccine at the Nikolai Gamaleya National Center. AP Photo / Zemlianichenko Jr

Experts warn that using an untested vaccine that has not yet proven to be safe or effective could ultimately undermine the response to the pandemic and cause more distrust among people about whether or not to be vaccinated.

As of Wednesday, Russia had reported a total of over 970,000 confirmed virus cases and 16,683 deaths. Russian officials have said the vaccine would initially be made available to high-risk groups, including medical workers and teachers before it comes to broad use.

The vaccine developed by the Gamaleya Institute in Moscow with assistance from Russia's Defense Ministry uses a different virus — the common cold-causing adenovirus — that's been modified to carry genes for the "spike" protein that coats the coronavirus, as a way to prime the body to recognise if a real Covid-19 infection comes along.

That's a similar technology as vaccines being developed by China's CanSino Biologics and Britain's Oxford University and AstraZeneca — but unlike those companies, Russian scientists haven't published any scientific information about how the vaccine has performed in animal tests or in early-stage human studies.

Putin said one of his daughters has received two doses, and had minor side effects such as slight fever, and was "feeling well and has a high number of antibodies".

However, many international experts remained sceptical as the experimental shots so far have been tested on just a few dozen people and there's no published scientific evidence backing official claims of its efficiency.

An employee shows a new vaccine at the Nikolai Gamaleya National Center of Epidemiology and Microbiology in Moscow, Russia. AP Photo / Alexander Zemlianichenko Jr

The Russian Health Ministry said that the vaccine is expected to provide immunity from the coronavirus for up to two years, citing its experience with vaccines made with similar technology.

Becoming the first country in the world to approve a vaccine was a matter of national prestige for the Kremlin as it tries to assert the image of Russia as a global power. Putin repeatedly praised Russia's effective response to the outbreak in televised addresses to the nation, while some of Moscow's top officials – including the country's prime minister and Putin's own spokesperson – became infected.

Last month, the US, Britain and Canada accused Russia of using hackers to steal vaccine research from Western labs. Russia has denied involvement.

Several vaccines, including those developed by Oxford and the US National Institutes of Health, are currently in advanced testing and hope to have results later this year. - AP

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