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Trek Full Suspension Mountain Bikes

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Full-Suspension

What is Full Suspension? A full suspension mountain bike has a main frame made up of three parts: the front triangle, rear triangle, and connnecting pivots and linkages. A shock controls the rate of compression and rebound. The front wheel is connected to the front triangle by a suspension fork. Both fork and shock allow the wheels a certain amount of controlled vertical movement that varies depending on the style of bike (Cross Country = 60-120mm; Trail = 120-150mm; Enduro = 150-180mm; Down Hill = 180-200mm). Suspension is designed to give riders more comfort, stability, and control by keeping the wheels on the ground while on rough terrain.

Read Our Trek Full Suspension Mountain Bikes Guide

Who is it for? Full suspension is smooth, comfortable on rough terrain, and stable on descents. This means more control and more confidence. However, these benefits cost more money, add weight, and decrease pedal efficiency. Is a full suspension bike for you? That depends on how much you want to spend and what types of trails you'd like to ride. If you're comfortable investing $2,000 + in a bike and would like to experience the widest range of Utah trails (which tend to be narrow, rocky, and loose), a full suspension is probably a good fit. We recommend visiting your local bike shop to talk with a professional about your cycling goals. It's a good idea to test ride some different models and note what you like or dislike about each. The most popular and versatile full suspension model we sell is the Trek Fuel EX. Swing by and check one out today.

For those looking for the cost-savings or simplicity of a hardtail, please take a look at our selection of Trek Hardtails .

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Trek Liquid 10 All Mountain Full Suspension

USER REVIEWS

i love the bike, its really a jack of all trades, the fox talas is awesome and the components are quite good, the frame is already 16 years old now but still doing great, the wheels are also the same age and i never had to replace them, and i kind of ride a lot of enduro so i can pretty much say the bike is really good, i should definetly buy it.

there is a little sound it makes when the frame sags in, but i think i can get it fixed, also the front shock, that is a rockshox psylo c is a bit of a problem, i really like the 125 mm travel, but the topout is terrible, it makes a very loud 'clanck´ noise and i really hate it, and also the rebount is not ajustable, still a very nice bike, i am going to buy the marzocchi dropout freeride fork for it

Great on climbs, descents, technical spots

It's kind of heavy, can't hike a bike with it, needs better wheels

I am not a bike expert. I have owned five mountain bikes since I started riding in 1991. I would never have bought this bike except the salesman talked me into testing it out in the parking lot. My original intention was to get something light and cheaper like a Specialized Stumpjumper or Rockhopper. But now, seven years later, I think I like the Liquid overall for its good climbing, excellent suspension setup (replaced blown out Psylo with new Fox). I still miss not being able to hike a bike it. Oh, well, can't have everything.

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Trek 1120 Review: Footsteps of Giants

The Trek 1120 follows in the same 29+ tracks that many bikepacking-specific rigs forged ahead of it, but this bike cuts its own trail with an innovative front rack, a thoughtfully designed rear harness system, and surprising trail prowess… all at a lighter weight than we expected. We’ve been quietly testing one over the last few months; here’s the full review.

With additional photos and insight by Ryan Sigsbey

With multiple companies creating bikepacking-specific bikes around the 29+ platform, it’s as if bikepacking has an official tire size. Bear in mind, big wagon wheels aren’t for everyone, and there are plenty of 27.5+ bikepacking rigs too, but it’s no surprise that this legacy continues to thrive… for plenty of reasons we’ve already covered within this site. It all started with the Krampus in 2012, and then came the Surly ECR , which was sort of the first big-tired purpose built bikepacking bike. It was only a matter of time before others created variations on the theme: The Chumba Ursa 29+ , the Carver Gnarvester , Salsa’s Deadwood and Woodsmoke , the Bombtrack Beyond ADV , and the Why Wayward . There are a few others as well, and probably more to come.

Frame/Fork: Aluminum/Carbon
Seatpost: 31.6mm
Bottom Bracket: PressFit 92
Hub specs: 148 x 12mm (R); 110x15mm (F)
Max tire: 29×3″
Weight (L w/racks): 29.4 lbs (13.3 kg)
Price: $2,499

Following suit, the 1120 was a natural progression for Trek. The Wisconsin based titan has a longstanding history of making bikes in the adventure travel and touring category. First the 520 and 720 touring bikes became classics back in the early 80s. Then Trek found success with its more recent gravel and dirt-drop tourer, the Trek 920 . It only made sense to add a couple hundred to the naming schema for a big-tired bikepacking rig. And this they did with a bang, creating a 29+ rig that is quite a departure from all the rest, even their own Stache .

Before we dig in, let me clarify the nature of this review. I’ve had this bike since August, but an injury/surgery/recovery kept me off of it for a couple of months. Then I got about a dozen rides in with it and had a bit of a relapse… from which I am still recovering. So, I enlisted the help of Ryan Sigsbey , a friend, photographer, bikepacker, and creator of the Trans-WNC . Ryan took it for a week or so, gave it a few rides and took it on a bikepacking trip to add his perspective. As such, this isn’t a long term review. Instead you’ll find an in depth analysis and a couple different perspectives regarding our experiences using it, comparisons, technical details… and, as usual, plenty of photos (don’t miss the new carousel galleries).

Newfangled Racks

There’s a lot to talk about with this bike, so let’s start with the 1120’s two most prominent features, the bright orange tangles of metal at its fore and aft. These proprietary aluminum racks provide a very stable platform for strapping all sorts of gear. They also eliminate the need for a standard seat pack and handlebar roll by offering innovative means of attaching equipment and drybags to the bike. In general, they allow the bike to carry more stuff than with a standard bikepacking setup.

The Front ‘Cradle’ Rack

Load capacity 7.03kg/15.5 lbs | Weight 441g The Trek 1120’s unique fork-mounted front rack is designed to cradle a large dry bag or an assortment of other cylindrical objects — think tents, fishing rod tubes, sleeping mats, etc. This places the load just a scoach lower than a conventional handlebar roll, which, in theory, lowers the center of gravity and increases stability. The rack is incredibly user-friendly, very stable, and does a great job preventing bag and cable interference, which is its biggest innovation. It also eliminates the need for handlebar straps, which frees up valuable real estate on the bars. All the same, the chunky aluminum rack adds about 441 grams that wouldn’t be there with a handlebar mounted bag.

The Trek 1120 front rack is heftier and sturdier feeling than I expected. Constructed from heavy duty aluminum tubing welded to a thick mounting plate, the rack attaches to the Carbon Adventure Fork with four beefy hex bolts in a unique trapezoidal pattern. When attached it feels rock solid. After initial use and inspection, I would certainly trust it on a big trip. One of its most interesting features are the protruding columns on the underside and back of the rack (these are also present on the rear rack). These rounded pegs serve as strap guides that work really well at keeping the straps from sliding and the load in place.

Ryan and I stumbled upon what we think is the ideal system for this rack. The main bag, as shown, is the large dry bag from a Salsa Anything Cradle Kit. It’s a pretty big bag that can hold up to 15 liters, according to Salsa. The Revelate Salty Roll would work equally as well. To cinch it down we used two 32” Voile Straps which provided a very secure and tight fit. Honestly, this is probably the most stable feeling system I’ve ever tried on the front of a bike. That being said, the options really are endless with this rack. I could even see wrapping up a Hyperlite day pack and using that as the roll, or a combination of items such as a tent and another roll bag.

Ryan: The front rack is very straightforward, and with the use of a dry bag and a couple Voile straps, lashing down your load couldn’t get any easier. There are some nice details on the rack to keep the straps right where you want them. The rack is pretty beefy, and maybe a little overkill for most loads, however it provides a very solid platform.

The Carbon Adventure Fork

Rake 51mm | Axle-to-crown 510mm The suspension corrected fork is called the Trek 1120 Adventure HCM Carbon Fork. It is made up of a carbon fork and crown with a bonded alloy steerer tube. The fork features 110mm BOOST spacing as well as triple accessory bosses on either side and rack mounts just above the dropout.  A lot of people have been asking about this fork… specifically whether it will be available to purchase on its own. Right now the ‘Trek Carbon Adventure Fork’ is the only carbon fork being made with triple bottle mounts and 110mm BOOST spacing. Apparently the fork is available through Trek dealers as a crash replacement. But, it’s not going to be marketed, meaning that it is not likely there will be too much stock available at any given moment. The suggested retail prices are $399.99 for the fork and $131.99 for the rack. Specs are as follows: rake is 51mm, axle-to-crown is 510mm. Part numbers are 561208 for the fork and 560997 for the front rack.

As far as performance, the fork is stiff as expected. It’s not as bump absorbent as the noodly MTB carbon forks of old or many of the modern gravel forks. However, I would expect this from an expedition worthy MTB fork. And, it does soak up some of the chatter.

One thing Trek missed in their design is the addition of dynamo wire routing. However, the fork has two tiny drain holes, one on each side, that could perhaps be drilled out to allow routing through the fork with a top-cap charger such as the Sinewave Reactor. Of course, this would void the warranty, and I have no idea if it is definitely possible. Otherwise, the carbon fork has all the right features, including triple mount bosses, rack mounts above the dropout, and there is even a threaded hole at the back of the fork crown to mount a fender.

Rear Rack and Harness System

Load Capacity 12Kg/25lbs | Weight 695g (Rack), 271g (per harness) The rear rack is quite interesting as well. Unlike most rear carriers, it only mounts to the upper portion of the 1120’s seat stays via four bolts, two welded bolt mounts that are threaded perpendicular to the stays and two long bolts that screw directly into mounts on the stays. Overall the rack feels solid and generally secure. One might assume that the upper bolt mounts would be subject to stress, but it seems like the longer bolts do more of the work. Two long bolts came loose during Ryan’s bikepack, but we think they might not have been torqued properly to begin with. He was able to easily tighten the screws and everything stayed secure.

The 1120 comes with two drybag harnesses designed in tandem with the rear rack. Each one secures to the rack with two wide velcro straps and four compression webbing straps that also serve to batten down the load. The harnesses seem very well made from what appears to be hypalon with a plastic hard backer and barstitched webbing with metal compression buckles. Each fits a dry bag ranging from 5 to 10 liters in volume (8L recommended). The setup is similar to having two small rear panniers — albeit far more taut and secure — and allows a bit more packing space than that of a traditional seat pack. This concept was developed to clear the space between the seat and the top of the rack, facilitating the use of a dropper seat post… or for smaller riders who simply can’t fit a large bag between the saddle and the top of a 29+ wheel/tire. It also lowers the weight that would normally be carried in a large cantilevered seat pack. When the real estate atop the rack is included, this system can double the load potential of a more “traditional” seatpack setup. However, with the rack and harnesses weighing in at 1237g/2.7lbs, it more than doubles the weight of a seat pack such as the Revelate Terrapin (539 grams).

As mentioned, the rear rack also provides an angled upper platform that’s useful for strapping down cylindrical items such as a tent or sleeping pad, without interfering with the 1120’s 125mm Bontranger dropper seatpost. Ryan lashed on a 5 liter Sea To Summit Big River Dry Bag containing spare warm clothes and such, and I tried it with my Big Agnes Fly Creek UL1 .

Ryan: The rear harness system was a little finicky at first and wasn’t nearly as easy as the front. The harnesses velcro to the sides of the rack to keep them temporarily in place. Then, once you stuff a dry bag in the harness, you have to loop the webbing around the rack and hook the buckle in. Do this to the other 3 straps and then your all set. It takes a little bit to get used to, but after unloading and reloading a few times I got the hang of it. I was using 6 and 8 liter dry bags and they seemed to fit pretty well. Anything bigger might be a squeeze. There’s extra space to attach a tent, sleeping pad or an additional dry bag to the top of the rack as well.

While Out Bikepacking

Although I wasn’t able to take the 1120 out on a multi-day bikepacking trip (for reasons mentioned earlier), I did set it up in various configurations and even rode it partially loaded a couple of times. The first thing that stood out to me is how tight, solid and stable the luggage systems are. The front rack is clutch. There would be little love lost if I could use it in lieu of all other handlebar harnesses or rolls from here on out. It’s nice to not worry about handlebar straps, or interference with cables and other such accessories. That said, with the proprietary mounts, this rack isn’t an option with a suspension fork, or any other fork for that matter. It’s also pretty specific to roll-style bags or cylindrical items that can’t be opened on the go.

The rear rack and harness system is also quite sturdy. It is probably one of the most movement/rattle/wag free systems I’ve used, the closest being the Porcelain Rocket Mr. Fusion . It’s clear that Trek’s engineers did their homework and focussed on creating a system that moves the weight down, while still maintaining the bike’s agility, maneuverability, and dexterity on tight and twisty singletrack.

Ryan: Since the racks are mounted much lower on the bike than a normal seat pack or front roll bag it really brings the center of gravity down and provides a more stable ride. That coupled with the dropper post means you can really lean into turns and keep up speed. These features also help to keep the bike rubber side down on steep descents. In addition, the solid rear rack eliminates any tail wag that can sometimes be experienced with standard seat bags. Generally that isn’t a big deal, but with this setup it’s removed altogether.

Trek 1120 vs Surly ECR

When I saw early photos of the 1120, I immediately wondered whether it has a similar geometry and feel to the Surly ECR, the original 29+ bikepacking beast. The answer is yes, to some extent… but it’s also quite different. Comparing the large ECR with the 19.5” 1120, the ECR is shorter in both directions. The 1120’s stack height and reach are a little bigger — 642/451mm respectively — than the ECR at 633/420. But, the Trek is also steeper overall with a seat tube angle of 73.5° and the head tube at 70.3°, whereas the ECR’s angles are 72.5 and 70°. Minor differences, but I was generally happy that the seat tube angle is steeper on the 1120. This, in effect, lengthens the 1120. So even with a 21mm shorter chainstay (425mm when the wheel is slid forward in the Stranglehold dropouts), at 112.7cm, the Trek’s overall wheelbase is still 1.6cm longer than that of the ECR. Otherwise, they have matching effective top tube lengths, and the BB drop on the 1120 is 5mm higher than the ECR’s at 80mm. This is a welcome difference, as the ECR is generally limited to 3” tires due its unusually low BB.

Honestly, I thought the 1120 felt similar to the ECR as far as its stance. However, it does seem a bit more nimble and spritely on the trail… probably owed to its lighter weight (approximately 2-3 pounds lighter, with racks) and shorter chainstay (and that was at the long setting for the dropout).

Trek 1120 vs The Stache

The trek 1120 as a trail bike.

Trek bills the 1120 as a touring bike. But judging by its the dropper seat post, short chainstay, and hydro brakes, they also want it to be able to double as a trail bike. Pondering the Trek 1120 as a dedicated trail bike will probably not be relevant to a lot of folks. If you can’t imagine slinging a rigid bike around on your favorite trails, then that’s that. However, a lot of people are looking for one bike to do it all, and the 1120 will likely be tasked as such. I could even envision some folks swapping the fork for a suspension fork until a big bikepacking trip is in order.

When considering 1120 as a quiver killer, the main thing that it has going for it is its relatively steep seat tube, low BB, big cushy tires, and of course, the short chainstay. As mentioned, at 425mm it’s only a hair longer than that of the Stache. However, the relatively steep head tube doesn’t exactly match. I personally would have preferred it a little slacker than 70°. That said, even with the Stranglehold dropout in the back position, the bike felt surprisingly stable during the few occasions I took it rack-free down local descents, such as the Black Mountain Trail and Ridgeline. The 1120 felt generally comfortable and capable for a rigid bike, which usually means slowing things down anyways. I don’t think this is a do-it-all bike for mountain bikers who have a discerning palate when it comes to trail geometry, but it’s certainly capable. It’s also worth noting that if you were planning on swapping a suspension fork when not in bikepacking mode, you could theoretically employ a Cane Creek Angleset to make that HTA a little slacker.

As far as the frame material, the Trek 1120 frame is welded from Trek’s own Alpha Platinum Aluminum. As Skyler found with the Kona Big Honzo , it’s hard to pinpoint the difference between aluminum and steel when there are 3” tires separating the frame from the bumps. The bike is stiff. And it’s also very light. The combination of these two traits makes it feel pretty responsive for a 29+ bike.

One thing I’ve always hated about aluminum is that ‘tink’ sound that randomly happens when a seatpost or something else is loose. Steel is far more dull and less obtrusive, and carbon just sounds like something is creaking. Aluminum can kind of be unnerving, IMO. I noticed the tink a couple of times on the 1120. Not sure exactly where it was coming from, but it went away after a while. With aluminum, it always helps to keep bolts and fittings greased and tight.

Ryan: As a newcomer to the plus tire world, I was amazed at how the tires absorb much of the small trail chatter. Cruising over small roots and rocks was a breeze and as long as I kept up momentum, the bike felt as if it would roll over most anything.

The more upright position, rigid fork and backswept handlebars are certainly features that lean more towards an off-road adventure bike than a trail slaying ninja like it’s bigger brother, the Stache. The bike does have a more nimble feel than I expected and handled a smorgasbord of terrain with a fair amount of ease.

The 20mm longer chainstays [while in the back position as we kept it] and the almost 2 degree steepened head tube angle in comparison to the Stache give the bike a much more stable feel, one that also provides more comfort on longer days in the saddle.

A few other frame highlights include a tapered head tube, internal derailleur and dropper post routing, and Trek’s own Stranglehold dropouts which allows the chain stay length to be fine tuned from 525-540mm. According to Trek, this also means that you could run a compatible 12 x 142 Rohloff hub.

The Trek 1120’s build, as expected, has a selection of Bontranger components. However, Trek made some nice choices in the bike’s bombproof drivetrain featuring mostly Shimano SLX components with a wide-range 11-46 11spd cassette paired with a RaceFace 30t chainring. This provides a granny gear with about 19.9 gear inches for loaded travel even with the voluminous 29×3″ Chupacabra tires.

There were a couple components I didn’t like. First off the Bontrager Crivitz handlebars… Unlike a lot of folks, I am just not a comfort/sweep bar convert. Even if I were, at 690mm, these bars aren’t wide enough. I am also not sold on the Sun Ringle Rims/Chupacabra combo. Both are fine while riding. While they came set up tubeless, I broke the seal when testing the new Wolf Tooth tire lever tool. It was not easy to reset the bead, to say the least. That leads me to think the tolerance isn’t quite tight enough on the rim, or the Chupa is off. If anyone has any thoughts on this, please leave a comment.

The spec also might be a little confusing to some. On one hand, with an innovative rack system, sweep bars, distance-oriented geometry, and loads of mounts, this bike is without a doubt a dirt-road touring machine that on the outset screams for big adventure in far off places. However, I would argue that the out of the box components don’t speak the same language. The dropper post, 28-spoke wheels, PF bottom bracket, and hydraulic brakes are odd choices for such endeavors. The latter is not much of a concern these days (especially for weeks or month long trips), and the other two can be remedied (if the PF BB is a concern, check out Wheels’ threaded options ). On the flipside, with a short chainstay, hydro brakes, and a dropper post, the 1120 has several ingredients that make it look like a trail bike. But, the steep head tube angle and comfort handlebars don’t quite seal the deal. Nevertheless, despite the 70° headtube, I was pleasantly surprised how well the 1120 did when unloaded on the trail. So in essence, in some ways, the parts match the bike, and in others they don’t.

Here is the full build list.

Front Hub Bontrager sealed bearing, alloy axle, Boost110
Rear Hub Bontrager alloy, Boost148
Rims SUNringle Duroc 50 SL 28-hole
Tires Bontrager Chupacabra, Tubeless Ready, Inner Strength sidewalls, aramid bead, 29×3.00″
Shifters Shimano SLX M7000, 11 speed
Rear derailleur Shimano SLX M7000, Shadow Plus
Crank Race Face Aeffect, 30T Direct Mount Narrow Wide
Bottom bracket PF92
Cassette Shimano SLX M7000, 11-46, 11 speed
Chain Shimano HG-601
Saddle Bontrager Montrose Comp
Seatpost Bontrager Drop Line 125, internal routing, 31.6mm (15.5: Drop Line 100)
Handlebar Bontrager Crivitz, 31.8mm
Grips Bontrager Race Lite, lock-on
Stem Bontrager Elite, 31.8mm, 7 degree, w/computer & light mounts
Headset Integrated, cartridge bearing, sealed, 1-1/8” top, 1.5” bottom
Brakes SRAM Level T hydraulic disc

The front rack and fork are unparallelled and offer several major advantages over typical handlebar mounted bags. Plus the fork is quite nice with two sets of triple bosses.
With racks, this size large Trek 1120 — set up tubeless — weighs 29.4lbs… incredible for a big-footed bike with two chunky, well built racks.
A well conceived geometry leaning more toward distance dirt tourer.
Good choice of drivetrain components for bikepacking and dirt touring.
Rear rack and harness system are a nice way to add a little more volume compared to a typical seat pack… all while slightly lowering the center of gravity. And it’s rock solid.
The PressFit bottom bracket will likely be one of the biggest gripes about this bike. But, as mentioned in the Norco Search XR review, there are ways around this being a risky (or squeaky) affair.
Playing the devil’s advocate, the aluminum frame will likely be the second con. While it’s not as vibration dampening and repairable as steel, it’s certainly lightweight.
The frame triangle doesn’t quite jive with size large universal fit frame bags. The best bet is a custom bag if you want a frame pack.
I would prefer a rigid seatpost and a price closer to $2k. But, considering you get two racks, the harnesses, and don’t necessarily need any bikepacking bags, it’s actually not a bad deal.
If it were up to me, the front-end would be a little slacker.
Size Tested Large (19.5″)
Weight (as tested with tacks) 29.41lbs (13.34kg)
Rider Height/Weight 6’0″/170lbs (1.83m/77kg)
Place of Manufacture Taiwan
Price $2499.00
Manufacturer’s Details Trek

Ryan: The Trek 1120 is a great bike for off-road excursions and anywhere you could use a little extra float, think sandy desert arroyos or loose trails. It’s comfortable, stable and provides a solid platform for strapping gear and a low center of gravity to keep you in control. I’m not sure this is the do-all bike that Trek states on the website, however it does provide a very stable off road touring option that can take you off the beaten path without having to invest in a plethora of specific bikepacking bags.

As Ryan mentioned, I’m not sold on the idea that this is a perfect do-all bike. Although Trek doesn’t necessarily claim it as such, they certainly based the build kit and spec around the idea that it’s both a dirt-road expedition bike and a modern trail bike. But, I’m afraid this approach makes the 1120 fall short at the extreme definition of each. That being said, with a few minor tweaks the 1120 can be adjusted to serve either purpose.

Ultimately, Trek’s rack systems are very smart and well executed. This is what will sell this bike. The front rack and fork is spot on. And as some riders can’t quite get their pack list down to the standard kit, or others need bigger kits or space for more water, or smaller riders need an alternative packing option, the 1120’s harness system and rear rack provides a very innovative, functional and solid solution.

When I started testing this bike the first thing that came to mind was The Baja Divide… or other such long-distance, sandy, water-starved bikepacking routes. For such trips 29+ tires are the perfect choice. And having all the gear you need on the two racks frees up five bottle mounts for water storage. The Trek 1120 begs for such pursuits. Out of the four bikes I currently have at my disposal, if I were to head out on the Baja Divide tomorrow, I’d happily swap the handlebars, saddle and seatpost, and set out with the 1120.

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Rider Notes

2022 Trek Fuel EX 5

A 27.5″ / 29″ aluminum frame full suspension trail bike with upper mid-range components. Compare the full range

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Jun 2023 · Scotty Prendergast

Arguably one of the all-time most popular bike models of any MTB on the planet, the ‘Fuel Ex’ has been at the peak of Trek’s MTB line-up for as long as anyone can remember and it has had no fewer than six major design overhauls during that time. Late last year Trek unveiled their newest reinvention of the ‘do it all trail bike’ which rolls out of the store boasting a ton of rider customisation features, including a choice of [...]

Read Review

Apr 2023 · Drew Rohde

While the new Trek Fuel EX may have alienated a few riders, it will no doubt be a welcome redesign for a lot more riders!

Fast, confident and ready to rock!

More capable than ever

Great downtube storage solution

Adjustable and versatile geometry options

Med/Large size

Bar/Stem combo

SE5 Tires in the wet

Some may not like the newer, burlier bike’s transition

Dec 2022 · Ian Collins

A couple months ago, I was on the hunt for a new mid-travel personal bike and found myself largely unconvinced by most of the offerings on the market. Then a new, highly adjustable and longer in the tooth Trek Fuel EX was announced. When I reached out to Trek to inquire about testing one they offered to send a frameset for me to build out. On paper given that it had my ideal geometry, loads of adjustments (including leverage rate!), internal storage and the options of air or coil and mullet or straight 29″, this was the ultimate Swiss army

Dec 2022 · Mike Levy

The downtube storage compartment is on the new bike, and while it seems like Trek has put all the things onto the latest Fuel EX, there's one that they didn't: Knock Block.

Wide range of effective geometry adjustments

Just as much fun on smooth trails as it is on scary trails

Great climber, efficient pedaling

One-piece handlebar might be too stiff for some riders

Paint chips easily

All-new for 2023, the Trek Fuel EX is no doubt the burliest yet. How does it compare to the competition? Read on for our Trek Fuel EX review.

Sturdy, flex-free chassis

Superb geometry with adjustable head angle

Efficient & comfortable climbing performance

Coil shock, big fork & mullet compatibility

Mechanic-friendly frame furnishings

Internal storage

Frame is on the heavy side

Rear shock tune lacks small-bump suppleness

Rattly rear thru-axle lever

New geometry, more travel, and even better suspension improves Trek's mid-weight trail bike.

Trek's top-tier Fuel EX 9.9 XX1 AXS delights on the climbs and tackles downhill terrain with it's slack (and very adjustable) geometry.

Sep 2022 · Tom Marvin

Does the benchmark trail bike retain its reputation as a solid choice?

Excellent suspension

Solid feel to the frame

Great geometry

Doesn’t feel as sprightly on climbs as some

Tyres give up corner traction too easily in loose or muddy conditions

Last updated June 28 Not listed for 641 days

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Trek trail bikes are versatile, light, and exceedingly capable. They climb just as well as they descend, making them ideal for everything from enduro racing to ripping laps after work.

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Our lightest full suspension e-MTB delivers the perfect amount of suspension and power for long, fast XC rides.

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Results have arrived, the first full-suspension mountain bikes: a brief history of full-suspension mtbs.

It is easy to take full-suspension mountain bikes for granted. But it took decades of experimentation, mistakes, broken bikes, and weird designs to get to where we are today. Here are a few notable suspension bikes from the early eras of mountain biking.

Written by: Bruce Lin

Published on: Jul 17, 2019

Posted in: MTB

Full-suspension bikes are so commonplace that many mountain bikers now take them for granted. Hardtails are getting rarer and every year an exciting new crop of fully suspended bikes gets released. But only 30 years ago, the concept of any suspension on a mountain bike was essentially a fantasy. It took great determination and bold experimentation by some of mountain biking’s visionary pioneers to create the foundation for the amazing bikes we ride today.

Let’s take a look back through time at some of the most innovative suspension designs in our vintage mountain bike museum . These are the early ancestors of today’s full-suspension bikes. Some are good, some are bad, and some are ugly. Naturally, many other bikes could be added to this list (as you'll see in the comments below!). It would be hard to convince anyone to ride one of these bikes today, but in their time, there was nothing more exciting and exotic. In each of their own ways, these are bikes that helped pave the way to the amazing machines we ride today.

1985 - Brian Skinner’s MCR Descender

Skinner would have liked to have had front suspension as well, but it was beyond his business's means at the time. He also felt that rear suspension was the more important of the two. His thinking was that a rider’s weight was over the center of the bike, so by placing a pivot in the center, the front wheel would still be able to pivot up, activating the suspension and absorbing some of the impacts. How well this actually worked is questionable.

In another forward thinking move, Skinner tried to augment the suspension with a "mullet" set-up using mixed wheel sizes . The larger 26” front would help absorb bumps, roll over rough terrain, and activate the suspension, while the smaller 24” rear wheel would be stiffer to handle extra load from the suspension and afford more room for the linkage.

The Descender came with a massive (for the time) six inches of rear travel, the equivalent of most modern enduro bikes. If the bike was bottomed out, the rear wheel had a tendency to rub the suspension strut so there were spacers available to reduce the travel if desired.

A coil shock was in the original plans, but Skinner didn’t like the idea of supplying different coil weights and ended up buying gas shocks from a California company called MotoSports as it went out of business. In all, only 25 MCR Descenders were made before Skinner moved on to develop products for Shimano.

1991 - Travis Brown’s Manitou

In 1990, Manitou founder Doug Bradbury designed and built one of the first bicycle suspension forks in his garage. While most modern forks generally use an air spring, the groundbreaking Manitou fork used elastomers. These were polymer cylinders that acted like a spring and could be tuned using varying levels of firmness. The fork provided a modest two inches of travel and worked as long as it wasn’t too cold outside. The fork was an immediate hit, and at the 1990 World Championships, John Tomac and cross-country winner Juli Furtado both rode Manitou forks.

At the time, this twin-fork design was the simplest solution to add rear suspension to a bike, and it gave the Manitou efficiency that was comparable to hardtail bikes. However, it was not the most effective design for absorbing bumps. The fork legs were pointed rearward, away from the direction of most impacts. Most modern suspension designs provide a rearward axle path at the beginning of the stroke, which is easier for the suspension to move into travel and absorb bumps. Because of the Manitou's non-linkage design, the rear wheel could only move forward and up, greatly reducing the suspension's effectiveness. It was a simple design worth trying though.

1993 - Missy Giove’s Yeti ARC ASLT

For the rear suspension, the ARC had a simple low-single-pivot design. It’s primitive by today’s standards, but it was state of the art at the time. Similar single-pivot designs became common for many early suspension designs because they kept the suspension simple and reliable. Yeti even continued to use a more refined linkage driven single-pivot design on its ASR cross country bike until 2018.

The suspension drives a custom Risse shock built specifically for the ARC. The shock was robust enough that it still held air when the bike was rediscovered by a vintage MTB collector over 20 years later. Risse Racing Technology is based out of Oregon and continues to design and manufacture suspension components. Its techs were able to fully restore and service the shock, so the bike is actually still rideable.

The shock was attached to the frame with custom welded plates that had two mounts, allowing the bike’s geometry and travel to be slightly altered depending on if the shock was mounted in the high or low position. This design feature was far ahead of its time and now a large number of trail and enduro bikes use a similar method to offer adjustable geometry.

Just sitting on the bike, it's easy to say that the Risse shock is the plushest and highest quality vintage shock in our museum. But it was let down by the ARC's flexy rear end, which tended to sway and flex wildly. With the suspension set in the “low” position, the ARC only had about an inch of travel, but it still managed to pedal quite poorly. Despite all this, Giove rode the bike to third overall in the 1993 season and third at the World Championships in Metabief, France.

1995 - Kurt Stockton’s Kestrel Rubicon Comp Kamikaze

Kestrel Rubicon Comp Kamikaze Mountain Bike

Even though downhill courses of the era weren't super gnarly, having more travel meant you were less likely to flat. (In the time of tubes, flat tires were a common headache.) For the Mammoth Kamikaze race, Stockton ran a massive 63t chainring to provide high enough gears to continue pedaling at 50-60kph.

Despite the downhill improvements, the Rubicon was still a cross-country bike. The articulated top tube design was intended for seated cross country riding and, as a downhiller, Stockton obviously spent less time sitting than his XC counterparts. Even with two shocks, more travel, and the slacker head angle, Stockton still felt the Rubicon’s geometry and suspension weren’t quite enough when courses got truly steep and sketchy.

The equipment of the time also wasn’t robust enough to handle the rigors of downhill racing. The long and slender swingarm driving the rear suspension was laterally flexy, and it actually snapped during a race in 1994. Kestrel had to quickly build Stockton an updated, fully custom version with additional layers of carbon fiber. The fork and shocks worked well enough for cross-county, but Stockton would blow them out regularly when he subjected them to the abuse of downhill racing.

1998 - Myles Rockwell’s Cannondale Fulcrum DH

The goal of the Fulcrum was to develop suspension that would pedal well, but also move easily through its travel without being affected by pedaling and chain forces. The engineers had to contend with variable chainring sizes, a real puzzle. The wide range of World Cup courses required a similarly broad selection of chainrings. Changing the chainring size would change the anti-squat, anti-rise, and pedal kickback characteristics of the suspension, and sometimes negatively impact performance. The engineers were trying to hit a moving target.

The Fulcrum's rear end provided roughly six inches of travel, and the axle path was designed to move rearward toward the end of the stroke. It did so with the help of two, short, rotating links, a feature we now see on many modern suspension designs like DW-Link and VPP.

At the front, Cannondale adapted its Headshok suspension fork into the dual-crown Moto DH. The fork used eight sets of needle bearings and square-profile stanchions to increase torsional stiffness over typical inverted fork designs. The oversized front-end also had interchangeable cups that could adjust the head angle, an advanced feature that wouldn’t be common until 10 years later when Cane Creek introduced its AngleSet.

Ultimately, the Fulcrum DH was too heavy, a headache to maintain, and too expensive. It was estimated that each bike cost $20,000-30,000 to manufacture. The Fulcrum DH had the potential to be further refined, but unfortunately, the program was canceled after just two years.

There have been many historically significant full-suspension mountain bikes that haven't been featured here. Have you ridden an early full-suspension mountain bike? How was it? What's changed? Tell us about your experience in the comments below!

If you want to see more beautiful vintage bikes, browse our extensive vintage bike museum .

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Cool Features

NCM Moscow Plus

An e-mountain bike equipped with high-end brake and drive systems, the NCM M5 is for adventurous riders who want to hit the trails comfortable in the knowledge that their ebike can handle whatever they throw at it.

BIKE COMPONENTS

Frame: Alu. 6061, 26"*17.3 inches / Alu. 6061, 27.5"*18.9 inches / Alu. 6061, 29"*20.5 inches

Suspension Fork: Suntour, XCM-HLO-26/27.5/29, with hydraulic lock system

Brake: F/R: Tektro Hydraulic Disc Brakes,HD-E350

Freewheel: LY, 8 Speed, 11-32T, Silver

Tire: Schwalbe, Black Jack, 26"*2.1/Smart Sam, 27.5"*2.35/29"*2.35, Black

Saddle: Selle Royal, Lookin-A200UR, Black

Crank: Das-Kit, CM48,28/38/48T

Derailleur: F: Shimano, Altus, FD-M310, R: Shimano, Acera, RD-M360

ELECTRIC COMPONENTS

Battery: Das-Kit, i5-4816, 48V 16AH, 768WH

Hub Motor Rated / Peak Power: Das-Kit, X15, 48V 500W / 900W

Controller: Das-Kit, CT-i5, 48V 18A

Charger: Das-Kit, 48V3A

Display: Das-Kit, C7

Net Weight (with battery): 57.0 lbs

Battery Weight: 9.1 lbs

Max Load (driver+bike): 275.0 lbs

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Our on-line store is open 24/7 and we ship Monday through Friday, excluding some holidays. Orders received for products without shipping restrictions on its product page will ship the same business day when received before 12:00 p.m. PST. Orders in high demand will have an estimated production time listed on its product page and will ship according to the date listed.

Customer Reviews

Battery compartment design is weak. I have anther Moscow and ot would come lose on top. Screws are so small. I also woul brace the battery with strap due to rattling. Otherwise love my moscow

We purchased the NCM Moscow 29 E bike from Leon Cycles earlier this month. Communication was via 'Whatsapp' which I initially thought a little odd but worked out well. Once communication established the transaction was completed quickly and easily. We were able to arrange for the team to assemble the bike for us and we picked it up from the warehouse without an issue. We love the bike and are continuing to find new places to discover using it. Competitive price and great service.

I ordered the bike 4 days ago and today it arrived. Now my first impressions: it is easy to assemble, looks great, is cleanly finished and after a first short driving test I have to say, the hammer. It's totally easy to drive. If it stays that way, I can only say thank you Leon Cycle. Now I can cycle again, despite knee problems. Price-performance top

Great bike, this is my second e bike and by far the best. Watching e bikes over the last 10 years I think the Moscow 29er is fantastic. I live in the Dandenongs outside Melbourne with big steep hills and the Moscow takes them all on with great pulling power and gear range. 48v with 16 amps means over 750 watts of power. The bike is big and serious so getting on and off can be tricky but you do get used to it. With the previous bike (36v at 8amps) I was scared of running out of battery on a big hill and having to push the bike home but not with the Moscow. Also if you take the front wheel off you can get it in a hatchback like my Mazda 3 Which is nice. At $2200 it is a great buy.

Purchased two Moscow 27.5. One for my wife, one for me. Fast delivery, well boxed and easy assembly. Absolutely FANTASTIC to ride and use. Great range, and enough power for steep hills and tough terrain. I highly recommend them. Exactly as advertised and brochure. Looked at many options from other suppliers but these are the best value for money. If anyone wants a little extra range and a few more features then a Moscow Plus may suit. 48 Volt is the way to go. Great support and assistance from the team at Leon to make the right purchase decision. Hope other people may enjoy the ride and quality product. Harry G

Highlighted Features

Das-Kit 500W Motor

Ergonomic handlebar grips

Moscow 48V disc brake

Product specifications.

Battery: Das-Kit, i5-4816, 48V 16Ah, 768Wh

Hub Motor Rated / Peak Power: Das-Kit, X15, 48V 500W / 750W

Display: Das-Kit, C7

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Shooter Files by f.d. walker

Street Photography Tips, Interaction, Travel, Guides

Apr 24 2017

City Street Guides by f.d. walker: A Street Photography Guide to Moscow, Russia

*A series of guides on shooting Street Photography in cities around the world. Find the best spots to shoot, things to capture, street walks, street tips, safety concerns, and more for cities around the world. I have personally researched, explored and shot Street Photography in every city that I create a guide for. So you can be ready to capture the streets as soon as you step outside with your camera!

At over 12 million people, Moscow is the largest city in Russia and second largest in Europe by population ( Istanbul is #1). An urban, cosmopolitan metropolis with more than enough glitz and glam to cater to the elite, but without losing its fair share of Soviet era roughness around the edges. It can be fast paced, brash, busy, and trendy like other big cities, but it has its blend of West meets Russia atmosphere and beauty that provides plenty of unique interest. The Red Square is as famous as it gets, but there’s so much more to this city, including the most beautiful subway system you’ve ever seen. It would take years to capture all of Moscow, but that means you have an endless amount of areas to discover.

So here’s a Street Photography guide so you can be ready to capture all that Moscow has to offer before you even arrive!

Patriarch’s Pond
Old Arbat Street
Maroseyka Street
Tverskoy Boulevard

Top 5 Street Spots:

1. red square.

The Red Square is the most famous square in not just Russia, but all of Eastern Europe. The name actually doesn’t come from the color of the bricks or communism, but from the name in Russian, Krásnaya, once meaning “beautiful” before its meaning changed to “red.” This large plaza is what you see on the cover of guide books and magazines for Moscow, with St. Basil’s Cathedral being the center piece next to Lenin’s Mausoleum surrounded by the Kremlin Wall. Of course, the Red Square attracts hordes of tourist due to the main attractions, but all that activity around an interesting atmosphere does provide street photo opportunities. It’s also the central square connecting to the city’s major streets, providing a good starting point to explore outward.

You’ll also find the popular pedestrian only Nikolskaya Street connecting the Red Square to Lubyanka Square. This line of expensive shops includes plenty of activity, while also leading you to another popular square. Filled with history rivaling any city, the Red Square and surrounding areas are the heart and soul of Russia.

2. Patriarch’s Ponds

Patriarch’s Ponds is one of the most exclusive neighborhoods in Moscow. Despite the name being plural, there’s only one large pond, but it’s worth a visit with your camera. It’s a popular spot for locals and expats to come relax or take a stroll around the pond. You get an interesting mix of young and old too, from young love to “babushkas” feeding pigeons. It’s a very peaceful park atmosphere in one of the nicer areas within the city center, while bringing enough activity for street photography.

The pond is shallow and in the winter becomes a popular spot for ice-skating too. The area is also well-known for the location in the famous Russian novel, The Master and Margarita.

3. Old Arbat (Stary Arbat)

Old Arbat is the most famous pedestrian street in Moscow, and dating back to the 15th century, also one of its oldest. Originally, it was an area of trade, but soon became the most prestigious residential area in Moscow. During the 18th century, Arbat started attracting the city’s scholars and artists, including Alexander Pushkin. Cafes lined the streets and impressive homes filled the neighborhood. Since then, New Arbat street was created as a highway in the area, while Old Arbat was paved for a 1km pedestrian only walkway.

Due to the historic buildings, famous artists that lived here, and the bohemian atmosphere, Old Arbat has become a big attraction for tourists today. Now, there’s a mix of cafes, restaurants, souvenir shops, street performers, street merchants and other attractions for visitors, and some locals, to come enjoy. It can get really busy here and there’s usually something interesting going on so it’s a good street to come walk with your camera for guaranteed life.

4. Gorky Park

One of the most famous places in Moscow is Gorky Park. The official name is Maxim Gorky’s Central Park of Culture & Leisure, which gives you an idea of what goes on here. When built, it was the first of its kind in the Soviet Union. Divided into two parts, it stretches along Moscow River. One end contains fair rides, foods stands, tennis courts, a sports club, a lake for boat rides, and more. This end brings more active life due to its number of attractions, while the other end is more relaxed, where you’ll find gardens, trees, older buildings, and an outdoor amphitheater.

Gorky Park attracts mostly locals so it’s a good spot to capture the non-tourist side of Moscow life. Muscovites come here to escape the city and unwind in a picturesque setting. The park remains alive outside of the warmer months too, especially when the lake turns into the city’s largest outdoor skating rink. I’d recommend taking the metro out here to spend at least half a day exploring the massive park’s life with your camera.

5. Maroseyka Street

Maroseyka Street is a popular area not too far from the Red Square. The long, winding street turns into Pokrovka and is lined with restaurants, cafes, bars and places to stay. It’s actually where I like to stay when I’m in Moscow due to its location and solid street photography opportunities itself. You have Kitay-gorod station near and if you keep walking southwest, you’ll get to the Red Square. But if you walk northwest, as it changes to Pokrovka, you can find a long street of activity for photography with its own interesting atmosphere.

6. Tverskoy Boulevard

Tverskoy Boulevard is the oldest and longest boulevard in Moscow, beginning at the end of Nikitsky Boulevard, and finishing at Pushkin Square, a spot to come for activity itself. The boulevard is made up of two avenues, with pedestrian walkways in-between. You’ll find grass, shrubbery, trees, benches and more walking it’s almost kilometer length. Many people come here to enjoy some relaxation, walk their dog, or just to use it to walk wherever they’re going. Its center location also provides a nice place to walk with your camera near plenty of other spots you’ll want to check out anyway.

Sample Street Walk:

For a full day of Street Photography, covering some of the best spots, you can follow this sample street walk for Moscow:

Start your morning walking around the Red Square (1), while exploring the surrounding area, including Nikolskaya Street
Then walk northwest to Patriarch’s Ponds (2) and slowly walk the pond and surrounding area with your camera
Next, walk east to the Pushkin Monument and stroll down Tverskoy Boulevard (6)
Once Tverskoy Boulevard (6) ends, it will turn into Nikitsky Boulevard. Follow this down until you get to the start of Old Arbat Street (3), across from Arbatskaya station
After you’re done walking down Old Arbat Street (3) for more street photography, spend some time checking out Moscow’s beautiful metro stations
To finish off the day with more street photography, get off the metro near Red Square (1) again, Maroseyka Street (5) or wherever you’re staying for the night.

3 Things I’ll Remember about Shooting in Moscow:

1. museum metro.

The Moscow metro system was the first underground railway system in the Soviet Union and today includes 203 stations across 340km of routes. The elaborate system has some of the deepest stations in the world too, with escalators that seem to go on forever. None of this is what makes it so special, though. Many of its stations feel like stepping inside a museum, making it without a doubt the most interesting and beautiful metro system I’ve been in.

When built, Stalin wanted to make the metro stations “palaces for the people” with marble, chandeliers, and grand architecture. The best part is the variety of architecture and styles used, making many of the stations a completely different experience visually. You could easily spend a whole day traveling the stations and there are even tours available for people who wish to do just that. My advice, though, would be just to buy a ticket and hop on and off at different stations, while exploring different lines. The museum-like surrounding mixed with the crowds of characters can make for a great photography experience.

Since there are so many stations, here are some of my favorites to check out:

Novoslobodskaya
Mayakovskaya
Elektrozavodskaya
Komsomolskaya
Ploschad Revolyutsii
Dostoyevskaya
Prospekt Mira

2. Moscow is Big

It’s no secret that Moscow is a big city, but it can feel even bigger with how spread out much of it is. This is especially true if you compare it to cities outside of Asia. If I compared it to cities in Europe, I’d probably say only Istanbul would warrant more time to really discover the depths of this city. Most only explore around the Red Square and surrounding area, but that is such a small part of the city. Although, that central area does give you plenty to see on its own.

Fortunately, I had a good friend living in the city to show me around, but it opened up my eyes even more to how much there is to discover in Moscow. It’s a big city with a variety of atmosphere that can take you from “east” to “west” and trendy to rugged depending on where you go. I’d imagine you’d have to live here a while to really know the city.

3. Cosmopolitan Mix of East meets West

Modern skyscrapers mixed with amazing architecture, a world-class metro system with museum-like beauty, trendy fashion and chic clubs, Moscow is a rich mix of Russian culture and history in a more western cosmopolitan package. There is a push to keep the Russian culture, while also pushing forward with a modern metropolis the whole world will envy. This comes with an impressive skyline, that continues to grow, and endless modernities, but with soviet nostalgia and atmosphere mixed in for good measure.

Mixed in with this grand western cosmopolitan atmosphere, is a strong national pride in Russia. This includes their famous leader, Vladimir Putin. Maybe no other place will you see a country’s leader more often. All over, from the pricey tourist shops to the underground walkway stalls, you’ll find goods with Putin’s likeness covering them. From t-shirts to magnets to Matryoshka dolls. There’s a strong national pride that can be seen around the city, which also extends to their leader. Moscow is many things. It’s East meets West, modernizations meets Soviet era, and a whole lot more.

What To Do For a Street Photography Break?:

Eat at a stolovaya.

Stolovayas are Russian cafeterias that became popular in the Soviet days. You grab a tray and walk down the line of freshly prepared local dishes, and select whatever you want from the chefs. They’re usually inexpensive and a much better value than restaurants, while giving you the opportunity to try from a wide selection of everyday Russian food. They’re also very tasty. I always include some borsch on my tray and go from there. The places themselves are all over Moscow and usually come with Soviet-era aesthetics to complete the experience.

Street Safety Score: 7

*As always, no place is completely safe! So when I talk about safety, I’m speaking in general comparison to other places. Always take precaution, be smart, observe your surroundings and trust your instincts anywhere you go!

Being the 2nd largest city in Europe with over 12 million people, you’re going to have your dangerous areas, but for the most part, it feels safe walking around. Russia is statistically higher in crime compared to most of Europe, but this generally doesn’t apply to tourists and visitors. Around the Red Square and surrounding city center, you should feel completely safe walking around. Pick pocketing can happen, but no more than other touristic places. I always explore Moscow freely without coming across too much to worry about. It’s a spread out city, though, so of course it matters where you are. Just use basic street smarts, know where you are and Moscow shouldn’t give you a problem.

People’s Reaction Score: 7

Moscow is fast paced, big city life, which usually means people aren’t too concerned with you, or your camera. I don’t find people notice or pay much attention to me when I’m out taking photos in Moscow. For the most part, people just go about their day. You shouldn’t get too many looks or concern. But it can depend on the area you are in. The more you stick out, the more you might get noticed with suspicions. I’ve never had any problems in Moscow, or Russia, but just be careful who you’re taking a photo of if you get out of the city center. Other than that, it’s about average for reactions.

Street Tips:

Learn the alphabet .

Much of Moscow, including the metro system, doesn’t use english. The Russian alphabet uses letters from the Cyrillic script, which if you aren’t familiar with it and don’t know the sounds, can be hard to decipher the words. This is most important for street names and metro stops when trying to get around. It can save confusion and make it easier getting around if you learn the basic alphabet. At the very least then, you can sound out the words to see which are similar in the english conversion, which can help matching them to maps. When out shooting street photography, getting around is as important as anything. So save yourself some time and frustration by learning the Russian Alphabet.

Use the metro

While Saint-Petersburg feels very walkable for a city its size, Moscow can feel very spread out, even for its bigger size. Outside of the Red Square area, you can have plenty of walking before getting anywhere very interesting, so you’ll need to take the metro a lot if you really want to explore the city. Maps are deceiving here too, it will always be further than it looks.

Another reason it’s less walkable than Saint-Petersburg is its completely different set-up. Moscow’s streets are mostly contstructed in rings with narrow, winding streets in-between. This is common with medieval city cities that used to be confined by walls, but you usually don’t have it in a city this massive. Saint-Petersburg has a more grid-like pattern that also uses the canals to help you know your way around. When it comes to navigating on foot in Moscow, it can be more difficult, so bring a map and take the metro when needed. It’s why Moscow’s metro carries more passengers per day than the London and Paris subways combined.

Explore other areas if you have time

Moscow is really big. While most people stay around the Red Square within the Boulevard Ring, there’s so much more to the city. I covered some other spots outside of this circle, but if you really want to see the city, you’ll need time. If you do have time, some other areas I’d check out first are Zamoskvarechye, along some of the south and western Moscow.

Inspiration:

For some more inspiration, you can look through the Street Photography of Moscow photographer Artem Zhitenev and check out 33 of my photos taken in Moscow .

Conclusion:

Moscow’s name brings a certain mystique, but once you’re there it might bring a different atmosphere than you expect. It’s big and sprawling, but beautiful in many ways. It can feel like a European capital on a grand scale, but you can definitely find its Russian side in there.

The urban sprawl of Moscow can be intimidating, but give it enough time and you’ll be rewarded with plenty to discover. All with the world’s best metro system to take you around.

I hope this guide can help you start to experience some of what Moscow contains. So grab your camera and capture all that Moscow has to offer for Street Photography!

If you still have any questions about shooting in Moscow, feel free to comment below or email me!

(I want to make these guides as valuable as possible for all of you so add any ideas on improvements, including addition requests, in the comment section!)

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City Street Guides by f.d. walker:
For a full day of Street Photography, covering some of the best spots, you can follow this sample street walk for Moscow: Start your morning walking around the Red Square (1), while exploring the surrounding area, including Nikolskaya Street;